I Sail'd from the Downs early on Saturday, Jan. 14. 1698/9. with a fair Wind, in his Majesty's Ship the Roe-buck; carrying but 12 Guns in this Voyage, and 50 Men and Boys, with 20 Month's Provision. We had several of the King's Ships in Company, bound for Spit-head and Plimouth; and by Noon we were off Dungeness. We parted from them that Night, and stood down the Channel, but found our Selves next Morning nearer the French Coast than we expected; C. de Hague bearing S. E. and by E. 6 L. There were many other Ships, some nearer, some further off the French Coast, who all [Page 3] seem'd to have gone nearer to it than they thought they should. My Master, who was somewhat troubled at it at first, was not dis­pleas'd however to find that he had Company in his Mistake: Which, as I have heard, is a very common one, and fatal to many Ships. The Occasion of it is the not allowing for the Change of the Variation since the making of the Charts; which Captain Halley has observ'd to be very considerable. I shall refer the Reader to his own Account of it which he caus'd to be Publish'd in a single Sheet of Paper, purposely for a Caution to such as pass to and fro the English Channel: The Ti­tle of it is in the Margin. An Ad­vertise­ment ne­cessary to be observ'd in the Na­vigation up and down the Channel of England. Sold by S. Smith at the Prince's Arms in St. Paul's Church­yard. Price 2 d. And my own Ex­perience thus confirming to me the Usefulness of such a Caution, I was willing to take this occasion of helping towards the making it the more Publick.

Not to trouble the Reader with every Days Run, nor with the Winds or Weather (but only in the remoter Parts, where it may be more particularly useful) standing away from C. la Hague, we made the Start about 5 that Afternoon; which being the last Land we saw of England, we reckon'd our Depar­ture from thence: Tho' we had rather have taken it from the Lizard, if the hazy Wea­ther would have suffer'd us to have seen it.

The first Land we saw after we were out of the Channel was C. Finisterre, which we made on the 19th; and on the 28th made [Page 4] Lancerota, one of the Canary Islands; of which, and of Allegrance, another of them, I have here given the Sights, as they both appeared to us at two several Bearings and Distances. [Table I. N ^o. 1, 2.]

We were now standing away for the Island Teneriffe, where I intended to take in some Wine and Brandy for my Voyage. On Sun­day, half an hour past 3 in the Afternoon, we made the Island, and crouded in with all our Sails till 5; when the N. E. Point of the Isle bore W. S. W. dist. 7 Leagues: But being then so far off that I could not expect to get in before Night, I lay by till next Morning, deliberating whether I should put in at Santa Cruz, or at Oratavia, the one on the E. the other on the W. side of the Island; which lies mostly North and South; and these are the principal Ports on each Side. I chose Santa Cruz as the better Harbour (especially at this time of the Year) and as best furnish'd with that sort of Wine which I had occasion to take in for my Voyage: So there I come to an Anchor Jan. 30th, in 33 Fathom-wa­ter, black slimy Ground; about half a Mile from the Shore; from which distance I took the Sight of the Town. [Table I. N ^o. 3.]

In this Road Ships must ride in 30, 40, or 50 Fathom-water, not above half a mile from the Shore at sarthest: And if there are many Ships, they must ride close one by another. The Shore is generally high Land, and in most Places steep to. This Road lies so open

[Page 5] to the East, that Winds from that side make a great Swell, and very bad going ashore in Boats: The Ships that ride here are then of­ten forced to put to Sea, and sometimes to cut or slip their Anchors, not being able to weigh them. The best and smoothest Land­ing is in a small sandy Cove, about a mile to the N. E. of the Road, where there is good Water, with which Ships that lade here are supply'd; and many times Ships that lade at Oratavia, which is the chief Port for Trade, send their Boats hither for Water. That is a worse Port for Westerly than this is for East­erly Winds; and then all Ships that are there put to Sea. Between this Watering-place and Santa Cruz are two little Forts; which with some Batteries scatter'd along the Coast command the Road. Santa Cruz its self is a small unwalled Town fronting the Sea, guarded with two other Forts to secure the Road. There are about 200 Houses in the Town, all 2 Stories high, strongly built with Stone, and covered with Pantile. It hath two Convents and one Church, which are the best Buildings in the Town. The Forts here could not secure the Spanish Galle­ons from Admiral Blake, tho' they hall'd in close under the main Fort. Many of the In­habitants that are now living remember that Action; in which the English batter'd the Town, and did it much Damage; and the marks of the Shot still remain in the Fort-Walls. The Wrecks of the Galleons that [Page 6] were burnt here lie in 15 Fathom-water: And 'tis said that most of the Plate lies there, tho' some of it was hastily carried ashore at Blake's coming in sight.

Soon after I had anchor'd I went ashore here to the Governor of the Town, who re­ceived me very kindly and invited me to Dine with him the next day. I return'd on board in the Evening, and went ashore again with two of my Officers the next Morning; hoping to get up the Hill time enough to see Laguna, the principal Town, and to be back again to Dine with the Governor of Santa Cruz; for I was told that Laguna was but 3 Mile off. The Road is all the way up a pret­ty steep Hill; yet not so steep but that Carts go up and down laden. There are Publick Houses scattering by the way-side, where we got some Wine. The Land on each side seemed to be but rocky and dry; yet in many Places we saw Spots of green flourishing Corn. At farther distances there were small Vineyards by the Sides of the Mountains, in­termixt with abundance of waste rocky Land, unfit for Cultivation, which afforded only Dildo-bushes. It was about 7 or 8 in the Morning when we set out from Santa Cruz; and it being fair clear Weather, the Sun shone very bright and warmed us sufficiently be­fore we got to the City Laguna; which we reached about 10 a Clock, all sweaty and tired, and were glad to refresh our selves with a little Wine in a sorry Tipling-house: [Page 7] But we soon found out one of the English Merchants that resided here; who enter­tain'd us handsomly at Dinner, and in the Afternoon shew'd us the Town.

Laguna is a pretty large well-compacted Town, and makes a very agreeable Prospect. It stands part of it against a Hill, and part in a Level. The Houses have mostly strong Walls built with Stone and covered with Pantile. They are not uniform, yet they appear pleasant enough. There are many fair Buildings; among which are 2 Parish-Churches, 2 Nunneries, an Hospital, 4 Con­vents, and some Chapels; besides many Gentlemen's Houses. The Convents are those of St. Austin, St. Dominick, St. Francis, and St. Diego. The two Churches have pret­ty high square Steeples, which top the rest of the Buildings. The Streets are not Regular, yet they are mostly spacious and pretty hand­some; and near the middle of the Town is a large Parade, which has good Buildings about it. There is a strong Prison on one side of it; near which is a large Conduit of good Water, that supplies all the Town. They have many Gardens which are set round with Oranges, Limes, and other Fruits: In the middle of which are Pot-herbs, Sallading, Flowers, &c. And, indeed, if the Inhabi­tants were curious this way, they might have very pleasant Gardens: For as the Town stands high from the Sea, on the Brow of a Plain that is all open to the East, and [Page 8] hath consequently the Benefit of the true Trade-wind, which blows here, and is most commonly fair; so there are seldom wanting, at this Town, brisk, cooling, and refreshing Breezes all the Day.

On the back of the Town there is a large Plain of 3 or 4 Leagues in length and 2 Miles wide, producing a thick kindly sort of Grass, which look'd green and very pleasant when I was there, like our Meadows in England in the Spring. On the East-side of this Plain, very near the back of the Town, there is a natural Lake or Pond of fresh Water. It is about half a Mile in circumference; but be­ing stagnant, 'tis only us'd for Cattle to drink of. In the Winter-time several sorts of wild Fowl resort hither, affording plenty of Game to the Inhabitants of Laguna. This City is called Laguna from hence; for that Word in Spanish signifies a Lake or Pond. The Plain is bounded on the W. the N. W. and the S. W. with high steep Hills; as high above this Plain as this is above the Sea; and 'tis from the foot of one of these Mountains that the Water of the Conduit which supplies the Town, is conveyed over the Plain, in Troughs of Stone rais'd upon Pillars. And, indeed, considering the Situation of the Town, its large Prospect to the East (for from hence you see the Grand Canary) its Gardens, cool Arbors, pleasant Plain, green Fields, the Pond and Aqueduct, and its refreshing Breezes, it is a very delightful Dwelling; [Page 9] especially for such as have not Business that calls them far and often from home: For the Island being generally Mountainous, steep and craggy, full of Risings and Fallings, 'tis very troublesome Travelling up and down in it, unless in the Cool of the Mornings and Evenings: And Mules and Asses are most us'd by them, both for Riding and Carriage, as fittest for the stony, uneven Roads.

Beyond the Mountains, on the S. W. side, still further up, you may see from the Town and Plain a small peeked Hill, overlooking the rest. This is that which is called the Pike of Teneriffe [...], so much noted for its heighth: But we saw it here at so great a disadvantage, by reason of the nearness of the adjacent Mountains to us, that it looked in­considerable in respect to its Fame.

The true Malmesy Wine grows in this Island; and this here is said to be the best of its kind in the World. Here is also Canary-Wine, and Verdona, or Green-wine. The Canary grows chiefly on the West-side of the Island; and therefore is commonly sent to Oratavia; which being the chief Sea-port for Trade in the Island, the principal English Merchants reside there, with their Consul; because we have a great Trade for this Wine. I was told, That that Town is bigger than Laguna; that it has but one Church, but ma­ny Convents: That the Port is but ordinary at best, and is very bad when the N. W. Winds blow. These Norwesters give no­tice [Page 10] of their coming, by a great Sea that tumbles in on the Shore for some time before they come, and by a black Sky in the N. W. Upon these Signs Ships either get up their Anchors, or slip their Cables and put to Sea, and ply off and on till the Weather is over. Sometimes they are forced to do so 2 or 3 times before they can take in their Lad­ing; which 'tis hard to do here in the fairest Weather: And for fresh Water, they send, as I have said, to Santa Cruz. Verdona is green, strong-bodied Wine, harsher and sharper than Canary. 'Tis not so much e­steemed in Europe, but is exported to the West-Indies, and will keep best in hot Countries; for which Reason I touch'd here to take in some of it for my Voyage. This sort of Wine is made chiefly on the East-side of the Island, and Shipt off at Santa Cruz.

Besides these Wines, which are yearly vended in great plenty from the Canary Islands (chiefly from Grand Canary, Teneriffe, and Palma) here is store of Grain, as Wheat, Bar­ly and Maiz, which they often transport to other places. They have also some Beans and Peas, and Coches, a sort of Grain much like Maiz, sow'd mostly to satten Land. They have Papah's, which I shall speak more of hereafter; Apples, Pears, Plumbs, Cherries, and excellent Peaches, Apricocks, Guava's, Pomegranates, Citrons, Oranges, Lemons, Limes, Pumpkins, Onions the best in the World, Cabbages, Turnips, Potato's, &c. [Page 11] They are also well stocked with Horses, Cows, Asses, Mules, Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Conies, and plenty of Deer. The Lancerot Horses are said to be the most mettlesome, fleet, and loyal Horses that are. Lastly, here are many Fowls, as Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Pidgeons, Patridges, &c. with plenty of Fish, as Mackril, &c. All the Canary Islands have of these Commodities and Provisions more or less: But as Lancerota is most fam'd for Hor­ses, and Grand Canary, Teneriffe, and Palma for Wines, Teneriffe especially for the best Malmesy, (for which reason these 3 Islands have the chief Trade) so is Forteventura for Dunghil-Fowls, and Gomera for Deer. Fowls and other Eatables are dear on the Trading Islands; but very plentiful and cheap on the other; and therefore 'tis best for such Ships as are going out on long Voyages, and who design to take in but little Wine, to touch rather at these last; where also they may be supply'd with Wine enough, and good cheap: And for my own part, if I had known it before I came hither, I should have gone rather to one of those Islands than to Teneriffe: But enough of this.

'Tis reported they can raise 12000 armed Men on this Island. The Governor or Gene­ral (as he is call'd) of all the Canary Islands lives at Laguna: His Name is Don Pedro de Ponto. He is a Native of this Island, and was not long since President of Panama in the South Seas; who bringing some very rich [Page 12] Pearls from thence, which he presented to the Queen of Spain, was therefore, as 'tis said, made General of the Canary Islands. The Grand Canary is an Island much superior to Teneriffe both in Bulk and Value; but this Gentleman chuses rather to reside in this his native Island. He has the Character of a ve­ry worthy Person; and governs with Mode­ration and Justice, being very well be­loved.

One of his Deputies was the Governor of Santa Cruz, with whom I was to have Din'd; but staying so long at Laguna, I came but time enough to Sup with him. He is a civil, discreet Man. He resides in the main Fort close by the Sea. There is a Centinel stands at his Door; and he has a few Ser­vants to wait on him. I was Treated in a large dark Lower Room, which has but one small Window. There were about 200 Mus­kets hung up against the Walls, and some Pikes; no Wainscot, Hangings, nor much Furniture. There was only a small old Table, a few old Chairs, and 2 or 3 pretty long Forms to sit on. Having Supp'd with him, I invited him on Board, and went off in my Boat. The next Morning he came aboard with another Gentleman in his Company, attended by 2 Servants: But he was present­ly Sea-sick, and so much out of order that he could scarce Eat or Drink any Thing, but went quickly ashore again.

[Page 13] Having refresh'd my Men ashore, and ta­ken in what we had occasion for, I Sail'd a­way from Santa Cruz on Feb. 4. in the After­noon; hastening out all I could, because the N. E. Winds growing stormy made so great Sea, that the Ship was scarce safe in the Road; and I was glad to get out, tho' we left behind several Goods we had bought and paid for: For a Boat could not go ashore; and the stress was so great in weighing Anchor, that the Cable broke. I design'd next for the I. of Mayo, one of the C. Verd Islands; and ran away with a strong N. E. Wind, right afore it, all that Night and the next Day, at the rate of 10 or 11 Miles an hour; when it slacken'd to a more moderate Gale. The Ca­nary Islands are, for their Latitude, within the usual Verge of the True or General Trade-Wind; which I have observ'd to be, on this side the Equator, N. Easterly: But then lying not far from the African Shore, they are most subject to a N. Wind, which is the Coasting and constant Trade, sweeping that Coast down as low as to C. Verd; which spreading in breadth, takes in mostly the Ca­nary Islands; tho' it be there interrupted fre­quently with the True Trade-Wind, N. West-Winds, or other Shifts of Wind that Islands are Subject to; especially where they lie many together. The Pike of Teneriffe, which had generally been Clouded while we lay at Santa Cruz, appear'd now all white with Snow, hovering over the other Hills; [Page 14] but their heighth made it seem the less consi­derable; for it looks most remarkable to Ships that are to the Westward of it. We had brisk N. N. E. and N. E. Winds from Tene­riffe; and saw Flying-fish, and a great deal of Sea-thistle Weed floating. By the 9th of Feb. at Noon we were in the Lat. of 15 d. 4 m. so we steered away W. N. W. for the I. of Mayo, being by Judgment, not far to the E. of it, and at 8 a Clock in the Evening lay by till Day. The Wind was then at W. by S. and so it continued all Night, fair Weather, and a small easie Gale. All these were great Signs, that we were near some Land, after having had such constant brisk Winds before. In the Morning after Sun­rise, we saw the Island at about 4 Leagues distance. But it was so hazy over it, that we could see but a small part of it; yet even by that part I knew it to be the Isle of Mayo. See how it appear'd to us at several Views, as we were compassing the E. the S. E. and the S. of it, to get to the Road, on the S. W. of it, [Table II. N ^o. 1, 2, 3.] and the Road it self [N ^o. 4.]

I got not in till the next Day, Feb. 11. when I come to an Anchor in the Road, which is the Lee-ward part of the Island; for 'tis a general Rule never to Anchor to Wind-ward of an Island between the Tro­picks. We Anchored at 11 a Clock in 14 Fathom clean Sand, and very smooth Wa­ter, about three quarters of a Mile from the

[Page 15] Shore, in the same Place where I Anchor'd in my Voyage round the World; and found rid­ing here the Newport of London, a Merchant Man, Captain Barefoot Commander, who welcomed me with 3 Guns, and I returned one for Thanks. He came from Fayal, one of the Western Islands; and had store of Wine and Brandy aboard. He was taking in Salt to carry to New-found-Land, and was very glad to see one of the King's Ships, being before our coming afraid of Pyrates; which, of late Years, had much infested this and the rest of the Cape Verd Islands.

I have given some Account of the Island of Mayo, and of other of these Islands, in my Voyage round the World, [Vol. I. p. 70.] but I shall now add some further Observations that occurr'd to me in this Voyage. The I. of Mayo is about 7 Leagues in Circumference, of a roundish Form, with many small rocky Points shooting out into the Sea a Mile, or more. Its Lat. is 15 d. N. and as you Sail about the Isle, when you come pretty nigh the Shore, you will see the Water breaking off from those Points; which you must give a Birth to, and avoid them. I Sail'd at this time two parts in three round the Island, but saw nothing dangerous besides these Points; and they all shew'd themselves by the Break­ing of the Water: Yet 'tis reported, That on the N. and N. N. W. side there are dan­gerous Sholes, that ly farther off at Sea; but I was not on that Side. There are 2 Hills [Page 16] on this Island of a considerable heighth; one pretty bluff, the other peeked at top. The rest of the Island is pretty level, and of a good heighth from the Sea. The Shore clear round hath sandy Bays, between the Rocky Points I spake of; and the whole Island is a very dry sort of Soil.

On the West-side of the Isle where the Road for Ships is there is a large Sandy Bay, and a Sand-bank, of about 40 Paces wide within it, which runs along the Shore 2 or 3 Miles; within which there is a large Salina or Salt-pond, contained between the Sand-bank and the Hills beyond it. The whole Salina is about 2 Miles in length, and half a Mile wide; but above one half of it is com­monly dry. The North end only of the Pond never wants Water, producing Salt from No­vember till May, which is here the dry Season of the Year. The Water which yields this Salt works in from out of the Sea through a hole in the Sand-bank before mentioned, like a Sluce, and that only in Spring-tides; when it fills the Pond more or less, according to the heighth of the Tides. If there is any Salt in the Ponds when the Flush of Water comes in, it presently dissolves: But then in two or three Days after it begins to Kern; and so continues Kerning till either all, or the great­est part of the Salt-water is congeal'd or kern'd; or till a fresh Supply of it comes in again from the Sea. This Water is known to come in only at that one Passage on the N. [Page 17] part of the Pond; where also it is deepest. It was at a Spring of the New Moon when I was there; and I was told that it comes in at no other time but at the New Moon Spring-tides: but why that should be I can't guess. They who come hither to lade Salt rake it up as it Kerns, and lay it in heaps on the dry Land, before the Wa­ter breaks in anew: And this is observable of this Salt-Pond, that the Salt kerns only in the Dry Season, contrary to the Salt-Ponds in the West-Indies, particularly those of the Island Salt-Tortuga, which I have formerly mentioned [Vol. I. p. 56.] for they never Kern there till the Rains come in about April; and continue to do so in May, June, July, &c. while the Wet Sea­son lasts; and not without some good Shower of Rain first: But the Reason al­so of this Difference between the Salt-Ponds of Mayo, and those of the West-Indies, why these should Kern in the Wet Season, and the former in the Dry S [...]on, I shall leave to Philosophers.

Our Nation drive here a great Trade for Salt, and have commonly a Man of War here for the Guard of our Ships and Barks that come to take it in; of which I have been inform'd that in some Years there have not been less than 100 in a Year. It costs nothing but Men's Labour to rake it together, and wheel it out of the Pond, [Page 18] except the Carriage: And that also is very cheap; the Inhabitants having plenty of Asses, for which they have little to do be­sides carrying the Salt from the Ponds to the Sea-tide at the Season when Ships are here. The Inhabitants lade and drive their Asses themselves, being very glad to be imploy'd; for they have scarce any o­ther Trade but this to get a Penny by. The Pond is not above half a Mile from the Landing-place, so that the Asses make a great many Trips in a day. They have a set number of Turns to and fro both Forenoon and Afternoon, which their Owners will not exceed. At the Landing-place there lies a Frape-boat, as our Seamen call it, to take in the Salt. 'Tis made purposely for this use, with a Deck reaching from the Stern a third part of the Boat; where there is a kind of Bulk-head that rises, not from the Boats bottom, but from the Edge of the Deck, to about 2 foot in heighth; all calk'd very tight. The Use of it is to keep the Waves from dashing into the Boat, when it lies with its Head to the Shore, to take in Salt: For here commonly runs a great Sea; and when the Boat lies so with its Head to the Shore, the Sea breaks in over the Stern, and would soon fill it, was it not for this Bulk-head, which stops the Waves that come flowing upon the Deck, [Page 19] and makes them run off into the Sea on each side. To keep the Boat thus with the Head to the Shore, and the Stern to the Sea, there are two strong Stantions set up in the Boat; the one at the Head, the o­ther in the middle of it, against the Bulk-head, and a Foot higher than the Bulk-head. There is a large Notch cut in the top of each of these Stantions big enough for a small Hazer or Rope to lie in; one end of which is fasten'd to a Post ashore, and the other to a Grapling or An­chor lying a pretty way off at Sea: This Rope serveth to hale the Boat in and out, and the Stantions serve to keep her fast, so that she cannot swing to either side when the Rope is hal'd tight: For the Sea would else fill her, or toss her ashore and stave her. The better to prevent her staving and to keep her the tighter together, there are two sets of Ropes more: The first go­ing athwart from Gunnal to Gunnal, which, when the Rowers Benches are laid, bind the Boats sides so hard against the Ends of the Benches that they cannot easily fall asunder, while the Benches and Ropes mutually help each other; the Ropes keeping the Boats sides from flying off, and the Benches from being crush'd together inwards. Of these Ropes there are usual­ly but two, dividing the Boats length, as they go across the Sides, into there equal [Page 20] parts. The other set of Ropes are more in number, and are so plac'd as to keep the Ribs and Planks of the Boat from starting off. For this purpose there are holes made at certain distances through the Edge of the Keel that runs along on the inside of the Boat; through which these Ropes pas­sing are laid along the Ribs, so as to line them, or be themselves as Ribs upon them, being made fast to them by Rattan's brought thither, or small Cords twisted close about both Ropes and Ribs, up to the Gunnal: By which means tho' several of the Nails or Pegs of the Boat should by any shock fall out, yet the Ropes of these two sets might hold her together: Espe­cially with the help of a Rope going quite round about the Gunnal on the out-side, as our Long-boats have. And such is the Care taken to strengthen the Boats; from which girding them with Ropes, which our Seamen call Fraping, they have the Name of Frape-boats. Two Men suffice to hale her in and out, and take in the Salt from Shore (which is brought in Bags) and put it out again. As soon as the Boat is brought nigh enough to the Shore, he who stands by the Bulk-head takes instantly a turn with the Hazer about the Bulk-head-Stantion; and that stops her fast before the Sea can turn her aside: And when the two Men have got in their Lad­ing, [Page 21] they hale off to Sea, till they come a little without the swell; where they re­move the Salt into another Boat that car­ries it on board the Ship. Without such a Frape-boat here is but bad Landing at any time: for tho' 'tis commonly very smooth in the Road, yet there falls a great Sea on the Shore, so that every Ship that comes here should have such a Boat, and bring, or make, or borrow one of other Ships that happen to be here; for the Inhabi­tants have none. I have been thus parti­cular in the Description of these Frape-boats, because of the Use they may be of in any Places where a great Sea falls in upon the Shore; as it doth especially in many open Roads in the East and West-Indies; where they might therefore be very ser­viceable; but I never saw any of them there.

The Island Mayo is generally barren, be­ing dry, as I said; and the best of it is but a very indifferent Soil. The sandy Bank that pens in the Salt-pond hath a sort of Silk Cotton growing upon it, and a Plant that runs along upon the Ground, branch­ing out like a Vine, but with thick broad Leaves. The Silk-Cotton grows on ten­der Shrubs, 3 or 4 Foot high, in Cods as big as an Apple, but of a long shape; which when ripe open at one end, parting leisure­ly into 4 quarters; and at the first open­ing [Page 22] the Cotton breaks forth. It may be of use for stuffing of Pillows, or the like; but else is of no value, any more than that of the great Cotton-tree. I took of these Cods before they were quite ripe, and laid them in my Chest; and in two or three days they would open and throw out the Cotton. Others I have bound fast with Strings, so that the Cod could not open; and in a few Days after, as soon as I slack­ned the String never so little, the Cod would burst, and the Cotton fly out force­ably, at a very little hole, just as the Pulp out of a roasting Apple, till all has been out of the Cod. I met with this sort of Cotton afterwards at Timor (where it was ripe in November) and no where else in all my Travels; but I found two o­ther sorts of Silk-cotton at Brazil, which I shall there describe. The right Cotton-Shrub grows here also, but not on the Sand-bank. I saw some Bushes of it near the Shore; but the most of it is planted in the middle of the Isle, where the Inhabi­tants live, Cotton-cloth being their chief Manufacture; but neither is there any great store of this Cotton. There also are some Trees within the Island, but none to be seen near the Sea-side; nothing but a few Bushes scattering up and down against the sides of the adjacent Hills; for, as I said before, the Land is pretty high from [Page 23] the Sea. The Soil is for the most part either a sort of Sand, or loose crumbling Stone, without any fresh Water Ponds or Streams, to moisten it; but only Showers in the Wet-season, which run off as fast as they fall: except a small Spring in the middle of the Isle, from which proceeds a little Stream of Water that runs through a Valley between the Hills. There the Inhabitants live in three small Towns, hav­ing a Church and Padre in each Town: And these Towns, as I was inform'd, are 6 or 7 miles from the Road. Pinose is said to be the chief Town, and to have two Churches: St. Johns the next; and the third Lagoa. The Houses are very mean; small, low Things. They build with Fig-tree; here being, as I was told, no other Trees fit to build with. The Raf­ters are a sort of wild Cane. The Fruits of this Isle are chiefly Figs, and Water-Melons. They have also Callavances (a sort of Pulse like French Beans) and Pump­kins, for ordinary Food. The Fowls are Flamingo's, Great Curlews, and Guinea-Hens; which the Natives of those Islands call Gallena Pintada, or the Painted Hen; but in Jamaica, where I have seen also those Birds in the dry Savannah's and Woods, (for they love to run about in such Places) they are call'd Guinea-Hens. They seem to be much of the Nature of Partridges. [Page 24] They are bigger than our Hens, have long Legs, and will run apace. They can fly too, but not far, having large heavy Bodies, and but short Wings, and short Tails: As I have generally observ'd that Birds have seldom long Tails unless such as fly much; in which their Tails are usual­ly serviceable to their turning about, as a Rudder to a Ship or Boat. These Birds have thick and strong, yet sharp Bills, pretty long Claws, and short Tails. They feed on the Ground, either on Worms, which they find by tearing open the Earth; or on Grashoppers, which are plentiful here. The Feathers of these Birds are speckled with dark and light Gray; the spots so regular and uniform, that they look more beautiful than many Birds that are deck'd with gayer Feathers. Their Necks are small and long; their Heads also but little. The Cocks have a small rising on their Crowns, like a sort of a Comb. 'Tis of the colour of a dry Wall Nut-shell, and very hard. They have a small red Gill on each side of their Heads, like Ears, strutting out downwards; but the Hens have none. They are so strong that one cannot hold them; and very hardy. They are very good Meat, ten­der, and sweet; and in some the Flesh is extraordinary white; tho' some others have black Flesh: but both sorts are very [Page 25] good. The Natives take them with Dogs, running them down whenever they please; for here are abundance of them. You shall see 2 or 300 in a company. I had several brought aboard alive, where they throve very well; some of them 16 or 18 Months; when they began to pine. When they are taken young they will become tame like our Hens. The Flamingo's I have already describ'd at large, [Vol. I. p. 79.] They have also many other sort of Fowls, viz. Pidgeons and Turtle-doves; Miniota's, a sort of Land-fowls as big as Crows, of a grey colour, and good Food; Crusia's, another sort of grey-colour'd Fowl almost as big as a Crow, which are only seen in the Night (probably a sort of Owls) and are said to be good for con­sumptive People, but eaten by none else. Rabek's, a sort of large grey eatable Fowls with long Necks and Legs, not unlike Herons; and many kinds of small Bitds.

Of Land-Animals, here are Goats, as I said formerly, and Asses good store. When I was here before they were said to have had a great many Bulls and Cows: But the Pirates, who have since miserably infested all these Islands, have much lessen'd the number of those; not having spar'd the Inhabitants them­selves: for at my being there this time the [Page 26] Governor of Mayo was but newly return'd from being a Prisoner among them, they having taken him away, and carried him about with them for a Year or two.

The Sea is plentifully stock'd with Fish of divers sorts, viz. Dolphins, Boneta's, Mullets, Snappers, Silver-fish, Garfish, &c. and here is a good Bay to hale a Sain or Net in. I hal'd mine several times, and to good purpose; dragging ashore at one time 6 dozen of great Fish, most of them large Mullets of a foot and a half or two foot long. Here are also Porposes, and a small sort of Whales, that common­ly visit this Road every day. I have al­ready said, [Vol. I. p. 75.] That the Months of May, June, July and August, (that is, the Wet Season) are the time, when the Green Turtle come hither, and go ashore to lay their Eggs. I look upon it as a thing worth taking Notice of, that the Turtle should always, both in North and South Latitude, lay their Eggs in the Wet Months. It might be thought, con­sidering what great Rains there are then in some places where these Creatures lay, that their Eggs should be spoiled by them. But the Rain, tho' violent, is soon soaked up by the Sand, wherein the Eggs are buri­ed; and perhaps sinks not so deep into it as the Eggs are laid: And keeping down the Heat may make the Sand hotter below [Page 27] than it was before, like a Hot-bed. What­ever the Reason may be why Providence determines these Creatures to this Season of laying their Eggs, rather than the Dry, in Fact it is so, as I have constantly ob­serv'd; and that not only with the Sea-Turtle, but with all other sorts of Amphi­bious Animals that lay Eggs; as Croco­dils, Alligator's, Guano's, &c. The In­habitants of this Island, even their Gover­nour and Padre's, are all Negro's, Wool­pated like their African-Neighbours; from whom 'tis like they are descended; tho' being Subjects to the Portuguese they have their Religion and Language. They are stout, lusty, well-limb'd People, both Men and Women, fat and fleshy; and they and their Children as round and plump as little Porposes; tho' the Island appears so barren to a Stranger as scarce to have Food for its Inhabitants. I inquired how many People there might be on the Isle; And was told by one of the Padre's, that here were 230 Souls in all. The Negro-Governor has his Patent from the Portu­guese Governor of St. Jago. He is a very civil and sensible poor Man; and they are generally a good sort of People. He ex­pects a small Present from every Com­mander that lades Salt here; and is glad to be invited aboard their Ships. He spends most of his time with the English in the [Page 28] Salting Season, which is his Harvest; and indeed, all the Islanders are then fully em­ployed in getting somewhat; for they have no Vessels of their own to Trade with, nor do any Portuguese-Vessels come hither: scarce any but English, on whom they depend for Trade; and tho' Subjects of Portugal, have a particular Value for us. We don't pay them for their Salt, but for the Labour of themselves and their Beasts in lading it: for which we give them Vi­ctuals, some Mony, and old Cloaths, viz. Hats, Shirts, and other Cloaths: by which means many of them are indifferently well rigg'd; but some of them go almost Naked. When the Turtle-season comes in they watch the Sandy-bays in the Night, to turn them; and having small Huts at par­ticular Places on the Bays to keep them from the Rain, and to sleep in: And this is another Harvest they have for Food; for by Report there come a great many Tur­tle to this and the rest of the Cape Verd Islands. When the Turtle Season is over they have little to do but to hunt for Guinea-Hens, and manage their small Plan­tations. But by these means they have all the Year some Employment or other; whereby they get a Subsistence, tho' but little else. When any of them are desirous to go over to St. Jago they get a Licence from the Governor, and desire passage in [Page 29] any English Ship that is going thither: And indeed all Ships that lade Salt here will be obliged to touch at St. Jago for Water, for here at the Bay is none, not so much as for Drinking. 'Tis true there is a small Well of brackish Water not half a mile from the Landing-place, which the Asses that carry Salt drink at; but 'tis very bad Water. Asses themselves are a Com­modity in some of these Islands, several of our Ships coming hither purposely to freight with them, and carry them to Barbadoes and our other Plantations. I stay'd at Mayo 6 days, and got 7 or 8 Tun of Salt aboard for my Voyage: In which time there came also into this Road several Sail of Merchants Ships for Salt; all bound with it for Newfoundland.

The 19th day of February, at about One a Clock in the Morning I weighed from Mayo-Road, in order to Water at St. Jago, which was about 5 or 6 Leagues to the Westward. We coasted along the Island St. Jago, and past by the Port on the East of it, I mention'd formerly [Vol. I. p. 76.] which they call Praya; where some Eng­lish outward-bound East-India Men still touch, but not so many of them as hereto­fore. We saw the Fort upon the Hill, the Houses and Coco-nut Trees: But I would not go in to anchor here, because I expe­cted better Water on the S. W. of the [Page 30] Island, at St. Jago Town. By 8 a Clock in the Morning we saw the Ships in that Road, being within 3 Leagues of it: But were forc'd to keep Turning many hours to get in, the Flaws of Wind coming so uncertain; as they do especially to the Lee­ward of Islands that are High Land. At length two Portuguese boats came off to help tow us in; and about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor; and took the Prospect of the Town, [Table II. N ^o. 5.] We found here, be­sides two Portuguese-Ships bound for Brazil, whose Boats had tow'd us in; an English Pink that had taken in Asses at one of the Cape Verd Islands, and was bound to Barbadoes with them. Next Morning I went Ashore with my Officers to the Governor, who treated us with Sweet-meats: I told him, the occa­sion of my coming was chiefly for Water; and that I desired also to take in some Re­freshments of Fowls, &c. He said I was welcom, and that he would order the Townsmen to bring their Commodities to a certain House, where I might purchase what I had occasion for: I told him I had not Mony, but would exchange some of the Salt which I brought from Mayo for their Commodities. He reply'd, that Salt was indeed an acceptable Commodity with the poor People, but that if I design'd to [Page 31] buy any Cattle, I must give Mony for them. I contented my self with taking in Dunghil Fowls: The Governor ordering a Cryer to go about the Town and give notice to the People, that they might repair to such a place with Fowls, and Maiz for feeding them, where they might get Salt in exchange for them: So I sent on board for Salt, and ordered some of my Men to truck the same for the Fowls and Maiz, while the rest of them were busie in filling of Wa­ter. This is the effect of their keeping no Boats of their own on the several Islands, that they are glad to buy even their own Salt of Foreigners, for want of being able to transport it themselves from Island to Island.

St. Jago Town lies on the S. W. part of the Island, in Lat. about 15 Deg. N. and is the Seat of the General Governour, and of the Bishop of all the Cape Verd Islands. This Town stands scattering a­gainst the sides of two Mountains, be­tween which there is a deep Valley, which is about 200 Yards wide against the Sea; but within a quarter of a mile it closes up so as not to be 40 Yards wide. In the Valley, by the Sea, there is a stragling Street, Houses on each side, and a Run of Water in the bottom, which empties it self into a fine small Cove or sandy Bay, where the Sea is commonly very smooth: [Page 32] so that here is good Wat'ring and good Landing at any time; tho' the Road be rocky and bad for Ships. Just by the Landing-place there is a small Fort, almost level with the Sea, where is always a Court of Guard kept. On the top of the Hill, above the Town, there is another Fort; which, by the Wall that is to be seen from the Road, seems to be a large Place. They have Canon mounted there, but how many I know not: Neither what use that Fort can be of, except it be for Sa­lutes. The Town may consist of 2 or 300 Houses, all built of rough Stone; having also one Convent, and one Church.

The People in general are black, or at least of a mixt colour, except only some few of the better sort, viz. the Governor, the Bishop, some Gentlemen, and some of the Padres; for some of these also are black. The People about Praya are Thievish; but these of St. Jago-Town, living under their Governour's Eye, are more orderly; tho' generally poor, having little Trade: Yet besides chance Ships of other Nations, there come hither a Portuguese Ship or two every Year, in their way to Brazil. These vend among them a few European Com­modies, and take of their principal Manu­factures, viz. striped Cotton-cloth, which they carry with them to Brazil. Here is also another Ship comes hither from Por­tugal [Page 33] for Sugar, their other Manufacture, and returns with it directly thither: For 'tis reported that there are several small Sugar-works on this Island, from which they send home near 100 Tun every year; and they have plenty of Cotton growing up in the Country, wherewith they cloath themselves, and send also a great deal to Brazil. They have Vines, of which they make some Wine: but the European Ships furnish them with better; tho' they drink but little of any. Their chief Fruits are, (besides Plantains in abundance) Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Melons, (both Musk and Water-melons) Limes, Guava's, Pom­granates, Quinces, Custard-Apples, and Papah's, &c.

The Custard-Apple (as we call it) is a Fruit as big as a Pomegranate, and much of the same colour. The out-side Husk, Shell or Rind, is for substance and thick­ness between the Shell of a Pomegranate, and the Peel of a Sevil-Orange; softer than this, yet more brittle than that. The Coat or Covering is also remarkable in that it is beset round with small regular Knobs or Risings; and the inside of the Fruit is full of a white soft Pulp, sweet and very pleasant, and most resembling a Custard of any thing, both in Colour and Tast: From whence probably it is called a Custard-Apple by our English. It has in the mid­dle [Page 34] a few small black Stones or Kernels; but no Core, for 'tis all Pulp. The Tree that bears this Fruit is about the bigness of a Quince-tree, with long, small, and thick­set Branches spread much abroad: At the Extremity of here and there one of which the Fruit grows upon a Stalk of its own about 9 or 10 Inches long, slender and tough, and hanging down with its own weight. A large Tree of this sort does not bear usually above 20 or 30 Apples; sel­dom more. This Fruit grows in most Countries within the Tropicks. I have seen of them (tho' I omitted the Descri­ption of them before) all over the West-Indies, both Continent and Islands; as al­so in Brazil, and in the East-Indies.

The Papah too is found in all these Countries, though I have not hitherto de­scrib'd it. It is a Fruit about the bigness of a Musk-Melon, hollow as that is, and much resembling it in Shape and Colour, both outside and inside: Only in the mid­dle, instead of flat Kernels, which the Me­lons have, these have a handful of small blackish Seeds, about the bigness of Pep­per-corns; whose Taste is also hot on the Tongue somewhat like Pepper. The Fruit it self is sweet, soft and luscious, when ripe; but while green 'tis hard and un­favory: tho' even then being boiled and eaten with Salt-pork or Beef, it serves in­stead [Page 35] of Turnips, and is as much esteemed. The Papah-Tree is about 10 or 12 Foot high. The Body near the Ground may be a Foot and an half or 2 Foot Diameter; and it grows up tapering to the top. It has no Branches at all, but only large Leaves growing immediately upon Stalks from the Body. The Leaves are of a roundish Form and jag'd about the Edges, having their Stalks or Stumps longer or shorter as they grow near or further from the top. They begin to spring from out of the Body of the Tree at about 6 or 7 Foot heighth from the Ground, the Trunk being bare below: but above that the Leaves grow thicker and larger still to­wards its Top, where they are close and broad. The Fruit grows only among the Leaves; and thickest among the thickest of them; insomuch that towards the top of the Tree the Papah's springs forth from its Body as thick as they can stick one by another. But then lower down, where the Leaves are thinner, the Fruit is larger, and of the size I have describ'd: And at the Top, where they are thick, they are but small, and no bigger than ordinary Turnips; yet tasted like the rest.

Their chief Land-Animals are their Bullocks; which are said to be many; tho' they askt us 20 Dollars apiece for them: They have also Horses, Asses, and [Page 36] Mules, Deer, Goats, Hogs, and black­fac'd long-tail'd Monkeys. Of Fowls they have Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Guinea-Hens, both tame and wild, Parakites, Parrots, Pidgeons, Turtle-Doves, Herons, Hawks, Crab-catchers, Galdens, (a larger sort of Crab-catchers) Curlew's, &c. Their Fish is the same as at Mayo and the rest of these Islands, and for the most part these Islands have the same Beasts and Birds also: But some of the Isles have Pasturage and Employment for some particular Beasts more than other; and the Birds are in­courag'd, by Woods for shelter, and Maiz and Fruits sor Food, to flock rather to some of the Islands (as to this of St. Jago) than to others.

St. Jago Road is one of the worst that I have been in. There is not clean Ground enough for above 3 Ships; and those also must lie very near each other. One even of these must lie close to the Shore, with a Land-fast there: And that is the best for a small Ship. I should not have come in here if I had not been told that it was a good secure Place; but I found it so much otherways, that I was in pain to be gone. Captain Baresool, who came to an An­chor while I was here, in [...]oul Ground, lost quickly 2 Anchors; and I had lost a [Page 37] small one. The Island Fogo shews its self from this Road very plain, at about 7 or 8 Leagues distance; and in the Night we saw the Flames of Fire issuing from its Top.

HAving dispatch'd my small Affairs at the C. Verd Islands, I meditated on the process of my Voyage. I thought it requisite to touch once more at a cultivated Place in these Seas, where my Men might be refresh'd, and might have a Market wherein to furnish themselves with Ne­cessaries: For designing that my next Stretch should be quite to N. Holland, and knowing that after so long a Run nothing was to be expected there but fresh Water, if I could meet even with that there, I re­solved upon putting in first at some Port of Brazil, and to provide my Self there with whatever I might have further Oc­casion for. Beside the refreshing and fur­nishing my Men, I aim'd also at the inuring them gradually and by intervals to the Fa­tigues that were to be expected in the re­mainder of the Voyage, which was to be in a part of the World they were altogether Strangers to; none of them, except two young Men, having ever crosst the Line.

[Page 41] With this Design I sail'd from St. Jago on the 22d of February, with the Winds at E. N. E. and N. E. fair Weather, and a brisk Gale. We steered away S. S. E. and S. S. E. half East, till in the Lat. of 7 deg. 50 min. we met with many Rip­lings in the Sea like a Tide or strong Cur­rent, which setting against the Wind caus'd such a Ripling. We continu'd to meet these Currents from that Lat. till we came into the Lat. of 3 deg. 22 N. when they ceased. During this time we saw some Boneta's, and Sharks; catching one of these. We had the true General Trade-Wind blowing fresh at N. E. till in the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. when the Wind varied, and we had small Gales, with some Tornadoes. We were then to the East of St. Jago 4 deg. 54 min. when we got into Lat. 3 deg. 2 min. N. (where I said the Ripling ceas'd) and Long. to the East of St. Jago 5 deg. 2 min. we had the Wind whiffling between the S. by E. and E. by N. small Gales, frequent Calms, very black Clouds, with much Rain. In the Lat. of 3 deg. 8 min. N. and Long. E. from St. Jago 5 deg. 8 min. we had the Wind from the S. S. E. to the N. N. E. faint, and often interrupted with Calms. While we had Calms we had the opportu­nity of trying the Current we had met with hitherto, and found that it set N. E. [Page 42] by E. half a Knot, which is 12 mile in 24 hours: So that here it ran at the Rate of half a mile an hour, and had been much stronger before. The Rains held us by intervals till the Lat. of 1 deg. 0 min. N. with small Gales of Wind between S. S. E. and S. E. by E. and sometimes calm: Af­terwards we had the Wind between the S. & S. S. E. till we crosst the Line, small Winds, Calms, and pretty fair Weather. We saw but few Fish beside Porposes; but of them a great many, and struck one of them.

It was the 10th day of March, about the time of the Equinox, when we crosst the Equator, having had all along from the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. where the True Trade-Wind left us, a great swell out of the S. E. and but small uncertain Gales, mostly Southerly, so that we crept to the Southward but slowly. I kept up against these as well as I could to the Southward, and when we had now and then a flurry of Wind at E. I still went away due South, purposely to get to the Southward as fast as I could; for while near the Line I expe­cted to have but uncertain Winds, fre­quent Calms, Rains, Tornadoes, &c. which would not only retard my Course, but endanger Sickness also among my Men: especially those who were ill provided with Cloaths, or were too lazy to shift them­selves [Page 43] when they were drench'd with the Rains. The Heat of the Weather made them careless of doing this; but taking a Dram of Brandy, which I gave them when wet, with a Charge to shift themselves, they would however lie down in their Hammocks with their Wet Cloaths; so that when they turn'd out they caus'd an ill smell where-ever they came, and their Ham­mocks would stink sufficiently: that I think the Remedying of this is worth the Care of Commanders that cross the Line; especially when they are, it may be, a Month or more e'er they get out of the Rains, at some times of the Year, as in June, July, or August.

What I have here said about the Cur­rents, Winds, Calms, &c. in this Passage is chiefly for the farther Illustration of what I have heretofore observ'd in general about these Matters, and especially as to Crossing the Line, in my Discourse of the Winds, &c. in the Torrid Zone: [See Vol. II. Part 3. p. 5, 6.] Which Observations I have had very much confirm'd to me in the Course of this Voyage; and I shall particularize in several of the chief of them as they come in my Way. And indeed I think I may say this of the Main of the Observations in that Treatise, that the clear Satisfaction I had about them, and how much I might rely upon them, was a great Ease to my [Page 44] Mind during this Vexatious Voyage; wherein the Ignorance, and Obstinacy withal, of some under me, occasion'd me a great deal of Tronble: tho' they found all along, and were often forc'd to acknow­ledge it, that I was seldom out in my Con­jectures, when I told them usually before­hand what Winds, &c. we should meet with at such or such particular Places we should come at.

Pernambuc was the Port that I designed for at my first setting out from St. Jago; it being a Place most proper for my purpose, by reason of its Situation, lying near the Extremity of C. St. Augustine, the Eastern­most Promontory of Brazil; by which means it not only enjoys the greater bene­fit of the Sea-breezes, and is consequently more healthy than other Places to the Southward, but is withal less subject to the Southerly Coasting-Trade-winds, that blow half the Year on this Shore; which were now drawing on, and might be troublesome to me: So that I might both hope to reach soonest Pernambuc, as most directly and nearest in my Run; and might thence also more easily get away to the Southward than from Bahia de Todos los Santos, or Ria Janeira.

But notwithstanding these Advantages I propos'd to my self in going to Pernambuc, I was soon put by that Design through the [Page 45] refractoriness of some under me, and the Discontents and Backwardness of some of my Men. For the Calms and Shiftings of Wind which I met with, as I was to expect, in crossing the Line, made them, who were un­acquainted with these Matters, almost heartless as to the persuit of the Voyage, as thinking we should never be able to weather C. St. Augustine: And though I told them that by that time we should get to about three Degrees South of the Line, we should again have a True brisk General Trade-Wind from the North East, that would carry us to what part of Brazil we pleas'd, yet they would not believe it till they found it so. This, with some other un­foreseen Accidents, not necessary to be mention'd in this place, meeting with the Aversion of my Men to a long unknown Voyage, made me justly ap­prehensive of their Revolting, and was a great Trouble and Hindrance to me. So that I was obliged partly to alter my Measures, and met with ma­ny Difficulties, the Particulars of which I shall not trouble the Reader with: But I mention thus much of it in ge­neral for my own necessary Vindica­tion, [Page 46] in my taking such Measures some­times for prosecuting the Voyage as the state of my Ships Crew, rather than my own Judgment and Experience, de­termin'd me to. The Disorders of my Ship made me think at present that Pernambuc would not be so fit a Place for me; being told that Ships ride there two or three Leagues from the Town, under the Command of no Forts; so that whenever I should have been a­shore it might have been easy for my discontented Crew to have cut or slipt their Cables, and have gone away from me: Many of them discovering already an Intention to return to England, and some of them declaring openly that they would go no further onwards than Brazil. I alter'd my Course therefore, and stood away for Bahio de todos los Santos, or the Bay of All Saints, where I hop'd to have the Governor's help, if need should require, for securing my Ship from any such Mutinous Attempt; be­ing forc'd to keep my self all the way upon my Guard, and to lie with my Of­ficers, such as I could trust, and with small Arms, upon the Quarter-deck; it scarce being safe for me to lie in my Cabbin, by Reason of the Discontents among my Men.

[Page 47] On the 23d of March we saw the Land of Brazil; having had thither, from the time when we came into the True Trade-Wind again after crossing the Line, very fair Weather and brisk Gales, mostly at E. N. E. The Land we saw was about 20 Leagues to the North of Bahia; so I coast­ed along Shore to the Southward. This Coast is rather low than high, with Sandy-Bays all along by the Sea.

A little within Land are many very white Spots of Sand, appearing like Snow; and the Coast looks very pleasant, being checker'd with Woods and Savanahs. The Trees in general are not tall; but they are green and flourishing. There are ma­ny small Houses by the Sea-side, whose In­habitants are chiefly Fishermen. They come off to Sea on Barklogs, made of seve­ral Logs fasten'd side to side, that have one or two Masts with Sails to them. There are two Men in each Barklog, one at either end, having small low Benches, raised a little above the Logs, to sit and fish on, and two Baskets hanging up at the Mast or Masts; one to put their Pro­visions in, the other for their Fish. Many of these were a Fishing now, and two of them came aboard, of whom I bought some Fish. In the Afternoon we sailed by one very remarkable piece of Land, where, on a small pleasant Hill, there was a [Page 48] Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. See a Sight of some parts of this Coast [Table III. N ^o. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.] and of the Hill the Church stands on [Table III. N ^o. 1.]

I coasted along till the Evening, and then brought to, and lay by till the next Morning. About 2 hours after we were brought to, there came a Sail out of the Offin (from Seaward) and lay by about a Mile to Windward of us, and so lay all Night. In the Morning, upon speaking with her, she proved to be a Portuguese Ship bound to Bahia; therefore I sent my Boat aboard and desired to have one of his Mates to Pilot me in: He answer'd, That he had not a Mate capable of it, but that he would sail in before me, and shew me the way; and that if he went in to the Harbour in the Night, he would hang out a Light for me. He said we had not far in and might reach it before Night with a tolerable Gale; but that with so small an one as now we had we could not do it: So we jog'd on till Night, and then he ac­cordingly hung out his Light, which we steered after, sounding as we went in. I kept all my Men on Deck, and had an Anchor ready to let go on occasion. We had the Tide of Ebb against us, so that we went in but slowly; and it was about the middle of the Night when we anchor'd. Immediately the Portuguese Master came

[Page 49] aboard to see me, to whom I returned Thanks for his Civilities; and indeed I found much Respect, not only from this Gentleman, but from all of that Nation both here and in other Places, who were ready to serve me on all Occasions. The Place that we anchored in was about two Miles from the Harbour where the Ships generally ride; but the Fear I had lest my People should run away with the Ship made me hasten to get a Licence from the Governor, to run up into the Harbour, and ride among their Ships, close by one of their Forts. So on the 25th of March about 10 a Clock in the Morning the Tide serving I went thither, being Piloted by the Super-intendant there, whose Business it is to carry up all the King of Portugal's Ships that come hither, and to see them well moored. He brought us to an An­chor right against the Town, at the outer part of the Harbour, which was then full of Ships, within 150 yards of a small Fort that stands on a Rock half a mile from the Shore. See a Prospect of the Harbour and the Town, as it appear'd to us while we lay at Anchor, [Table III. N ^o. 5.]

Bahia de todos los Santos lies in Lat. 13 deg. S. It is the most considerable Town in Brazil, whether in respect of the Beauty of its Buildings, its Bulk, or its Trade and Revenue. It has the convenience of a [Page 50] good Harbour that is capable of receiving Ships of the greatest Burthen: The En­trance of which is guarded with a strong Fort standing without the Harbour, call'd St. Antonio: A Sight of which I have gi­ven [Table III. N ^o. 4.] as it appear'd to us the Afternoon before we came in; and its Lights (which they hang out purpose­ly for Ships) we saw the same Night. There are other smaller Forts that com­mand the Harbour, one of which stands on a Rock in the Sea, about half a mile from the Shore. Close by this Fort all Ships must pass that anchor here, and must ride also within half a mile of it at farthest between this and another Fort (that stands on a Point at the inner part of the Har­bour and is called the Dutch Fort) but must ride nearest to the former, all along against the Town: where there is good holding Ground, and less exposed to the Southerly Winds that blow very hard here. They commonly set in about April, but blow hardest in May, June, July and August: but the Place where the Ships ride is ex­posed to these Winds not above 3 Points of the Compass.

Beside these there is another Fort front­ing the Harbour, and standing on the Hill upon which the Town stands. The Town it self consists of about 2000 Houses; the major part of which cannot be seen [Page 51] from the Harbour: but so many as appear in sight, with a great mixture of Trees be­tween them, and all placed on a rising Hill, make a very pleasant Prospect; as may be judg'd by the Draught, [Table III. N ^o. 5.]

There are in the Town 13 Churches, Chapels, Hospitals, Convents, beside one Nunnery; viz. the Ecclesia Major or Ca­thedral, the Jesuits College, which are the chief, and both in sight from the Har­bour: St. Antonio, Sta. Barbara, both Pa­rish-Churches; the Franciscans Church, and the Dominicans; and two Convents of Carmelites; a Chapel for Seamen close by the Sea-side, where Boats commonly land, and the Seamen go immediately to Prayers; another Chapel for poor People, at the farther end of the same Street, which runs along by the Shore; and a third Chapel for Soldiers, at the edge of the Town, remote from the Sea; and an Hospital in the middle of the Town. The Nunnery stands at the outer-edge of the Town next the Fields, wherein by Report there are 70 Nuns. Here lives an Arch­bishop who has a fine Palace in the Town; and the Governor's Palace is a fair Stone-building, and looks handsome to the Sea, tho' but indifferently furnish'd with­in: both Spaniards and Portuguese in their Plantations abroad, as I have generally [Page 52] observ'd, affecting to have large Houses; but are little curious about Furniture, ex­cept Pictures some of them. The Houses of the Town are 2 or 3 Stories high, the Walls thick and strong, being built with Stone, with a Covering of Pantile; and many of them have Balconies. The prin­cipal Streets are large, and all of them pav'd or pitch'd with small Stones. There are also Parades in the most eminent Places of the Town, and many Gardens, as well within the Town as in the Out-parts of it, wherein are Fruit-trees, Herbs, Salladings and Flowers in great variety, but order'd with no great Care nor Art.

The Governor who resides here is call'd Don John de Lancastario, being descended, as they say, from our English Lancaster Fa­mily; and he has a respect for our Nation on that account, calling them his Country­men. I waited on him several times and always found him very courteous and civil. Here are about 400 Soldiers in Garison. They commonly draw up and exercise in a large Parade before the Governor's House; and many of them attend him when he goes abroad. The Soldiers are decently clad in brown Linen, which in these hot Countries is sar better than Woollen; but I never saw any clad in Linen but only these. Beside the Soldiers in Pay, he can soon have some thousands of Men up in [Page 53] Arms on occasion. The Magazine is on the Skirts of the Town, on a small rising between the Nunnery and the Soldiers Church. 'Tis big enough to hold 2 or 3000 Barrels of Powder; but I was told it seldom has more than 100, sometimes but 80. There are always a Band of Soldiers to guard it, and Centinels looking out both Day and Night.

A great many Merchants always reside at Bahia; for 'tis a Place of great Trade: I found here above 30 great Ships from Europe, with two of the King of Portugal's Ships of War for their Convoy; beside two Ships that Traded to Africa only, either to Angola, Gamba, or other Places on the Coast of Guinea; and abundance of small Craft, that only run to and fro on this Coast, carrying Commodities from one part of Brazil to another.

The Merchants that live here are said to be Rich, and to have many Negro Slaves in their Houses, both of Men and Women. Themselves are chiefly Portu­guese, Foreigners having but little Com­merce with them; yet here was one Mr. Cock an English Merchant, a very civil Gentleman and of good Repute. He had a Patent to be our English Consul, but did not care to take upon him any Publick Character, because English Ships seldom come hither, here having been none in 11 [Page 54] or 12 years before this time. Here was also a Dane, and a French Merchant or two; but all have their Effects transported to and from Europe in Portuguese Ships, none of any other Nation being admitted to Trade hither. There is a Custom-house by the Sea-side, where all Goods imported or exported are entred. And to prevent Abuses there are 5 or 6 Boats that take their turns to row about the Harbour, searching any Boats they suspect to be run­ning of Goods.

The chief Commodities that the Eu­ropean Ships bring hither, are Linnen­cloaths, both course and fine; some Wool­lens also, as Bays, Searges, Perpetuana's, &c. Hats, Stockings, both of Silk and Thread, Bisket-bread, Wheat-flower, Wine (chiefly Port) Oil-Olive, Butter, Cheese, &c. and Salt-beef and Pork would there also be good Commodities. They bring hither also Iron, and all sorts of Iron-Tools; Pewter-Vessels of all sorts, as Dishes, Plates, Spoons, &c. Looking­glasses, Beads, and other Toys; and the Ships that touch at St. Jago bring thence, as I said, Cotton cloath, which is after­wards sent to Angola.

The European Ships carry from hence Sugar, Tobacco, either in Roll or Snuff, never in Leaf, that I know of: These are the Staple Commodities. Besides which, [Page 55] here are Dye-woods, as Fustick, &c. with Woods for other uses, as speckled Wood, Brazil, &c. They also carry home raw Hides, Tallow, Train-Oil of Whales, &c. Here are also kept tame Monkeys, Parrots, Parakites, &c. which the Seamen carry home.

The Sugar of this Country is much bet­ter than that which we bring home from our Plantations: for all the Sugar that is made here is clay'd, which makes it whiter and finer than our Muscovada, as we call our unrefin'd Sugar. Our Planters seldom refine any with Clay, unless sometimes a little to send home as Presents for their Friends in England. Their way of doing it is by taking some of the whitest Clay and mixing it with Water, 'till 'tis like Cream. With this they fill up the Pans of Sugar, that are sunk 2 or 3 Inches below the Brim by the draining of the Molosses out of it: First scraping off the thin hard Crust of the Sugar that lies at the top, and would hinder the Water of the Clay from soak­ing through the Sugar of the Pan. The refining is made by this Percolation. For 10 or 12 days time that the Clayish Li­quor lies soaking down the Pan, the white Water whitens the Sugar as it passes thro' it; and the gross Body of the Clay it self grows hard on the top, and may be taken off at pleasure; when scraping off with a [Page 56] Knife the very upper part of the Sugar, which will be a little sullied, that which is underneath will be White almost to the bottom: and such as is called Brazil Sugar is thus Whitened. When I was here this Sugar was sold for 50 s. per 100 lb. and the Bottoms of the Pots, which is very course Sugar, for about 20 s. per 100 lb. both sorts being then scarce; for here was not enough to lade the Ships, and therefore some of them were to lie here till the next Sea­son.

The European Ships commonly arrive here in February or March, and they have generally quick Passages; finding at that time of the Year brisk Gales to bring them to the Line, little Trouble, then, in cros­sing it, and brisk E. N. E. Winds after­wards to bring them hither. They com­monly return from hence about the latter end of May, or in June. 'Twas said when I was here that the Ships would sail hence the 20th day of May; and therefore they were all very busy, some in taking in their Goods, others in Careening and making themselves ready. The Ships that come hither usually Careen at their first coming; here being a Hulk belonging to the King for that purpose. This Hulk is under the charge of the Superintendent I spoke of, who has a certain Sum of Mony for every Ship that Careens by her. He also pro­vides [Page 57] Firing and other Necessaries for that purpose: and the Ships do commonly hire of the Merchants here each 2 Cables to moor by all the time they lie here, and so save their own Hempen Cables; for these are made of a sort of Hair, that grows on a certain kind of Trees, hanging down from the Top of their Bodies, and is very like the black Coyre in the East-In­dies, if not the same. These Cables are strong and lasting: And so much for the European Ships.

The Ships that use the Guinea-Trade are small Vessels in comparison of the for­mer. They carry out from hence Rum, Sugar, the Cotton-cloaths of St. Jago, Beads, &c. and bring in return, Gold, Ivory, and Slaves; making very good re­turns.

The small Craft that belong to this Town are chiefly imployed in carrying European Goods from Bahia, the Center of the Brasilian Trade, to the other Places on this Coast; bringing back hither Sugar, Tobacco, &c. They are sailed chiefly with Negro-Slaves; and about Christmas these are mostly imployed in Whale-kill­ing: for about that time of the Year a sort Whales, as they call them, are very thick on this Coast. They come in also into the Harbours and inland Lakes, where the Seamen go out and kill them. The Fat of [Page 58] them is boyled to Oyl; the Lean is eaten by the Slaves and poor People: And I was told by one that had frequently eaten of it that the Flesh was very sweet and whole­some. These are said to be but small Whales: yet here are so many, and so easily kill'd, that they get a great deal of Mony by it. Those that strike them buy their Licence for it of the King: And I was informed that he receives 30000 Dol­lars per Annum for this Fishery. All the small Vessels that use this Coasting Traf­fick are built here; and so are some Men of War also for the King'sService. There was one a Building when I was here, a Ship of 40 or 50 Guns: And the Timber of this Country is very good and proper for this purpose. I was told it was very strong, and more durable than any we have in Europe: and they have enough of it. As for their Ships that use the European Trade, some of them that I saw there were Eng­lish built, taken from us by the French dur­ing the late War, and sold by them to the Portugese.

Besides Merchants and others that Trade by Sea from this Port, here are other pret­ty Wealthy Men, and several Artificers and Trades-men of most sorts, who by Labour and Industry maintain themselves very well; especially such as can arrive at the purchase of a Negro-Slave or two. [Page 59] And indeed, excepting People of the low­est degree of all, here are scarce any but what keep Slaves in their Houses. The Richer Sort, besides the Slaves of both Sexes whom they keep for servile Uses in their Houses, have Men-slaves who wait on them abroad, for State; either run­ning by their Horses-sides when they ride out, or to carry them to and fro on their Shoulders in the Town when they make short Visits near home. Every Gen­tleman or Merchant is provided with Things necessary for this sort of Carriage. The main Thing is a pretty large Cotton Hammock of the West-India Fashion, but mostly dyed Blue, with large Fringes of the same, hanging down on each side. This is carry'd on the Negro's Shoulders by the help of a Bambo about 12 or 14 Foot long, to which the Hammock is hung; and a Covering comes over the Pole, hanging down on each side like a Curtain: So that the Person so carry'd cannot be seen unless he pleases; but may either ly down, hav­ing Pillows for his Head; or may sit up by being a little supported with these Pil­lows, and by letting both his Legs hang out over one side of the Hammock. When he hath a mind to be seen he puts by his Curtain, and salutes every one of his Ac­quaintance whom he meets in the Streets: for they take a piece of Pride in greeting [Page 60] one another from their Hammocks, and will hold long Conferences thus in the Streets: But then their two Slaves who carry the Hammock have each a strong well-made Staff, with a fine Iron Fork at the upper end, and a sharp Iron below, like the Rest for a Musket, which they stick fast in the Ground, and let the Pole or Bambo of the Hammock rest upon them, till their Masters Business or the Complement is over. There is scarce a Man of any fashion, especially a Woman, will pass the Streets but so carried in a Hammock. The chief Mechanick Traders here, are Smiths, Hatters, Shoemakers, Tanners, Sawyers, Carpenters, Coopers, &c. Here are also Taylors, Butchers, &c. which last kill the Bullocks very dexte­rously, sticking them at one Blow with a sharp-pointed Knife in the Nape of the Neck, having first drawn them close to a Rail; but they dress them very slovenly. It being Lent when I came hither there was no buying any Flesh till Easter-Eve, when a great number of Bullocks were kill'd at once in the Slaughter-houses with­in the Town, Men, Women and Children flocking thither with great Joy to buy, and a multitude of Dogs, almost starv'd, following them; for whom the Meat seem'd fittest, it was so Lean. All these Trades-men buy Negro's, and train [Page 61] them up to their several Imployments, which is a great help to them: and they having so frequent Trade to Angola, and other parts of Guinea, they have a constant supply of Blacks both for their Plantations and Town. These Slaves are very useful in this Place for Carriage, as Porters; for as here is a great Trade by Sea, and the Landing-place is at the foot of a Hill, too steep for drawing with Carts, so there is great need of Slaves to carry Goods up in­to the Town, especially for the inferiour sort: but the Merchants have also the Convenience of a great Crane that goes with Ropes or Pullees, one end of which goes up while the other goes down. The House in which this Crane is stands on the Brow of the Hill towards the Sea, hanging over the Precipice: and there are Planks set shelving against the Bank from thence to the Bottom, against which the Goods lean or slide as they are hoisted up or let down. The Negro-Slaves in this Town are so nu­merous, that they make up the greatest part or bulk of the Inhabitants: Every House, as I said, having some, both Men and Women, of them. Many of the Por­tuguese, who are Batchelors, keep of these black Women for Misses, tho' they know the danger they are in of being poyson'd by them, if ever they give them any occa­sion of Jealousy. A Gentleman of my Ac­quaintance, [Page 62] who had been familiar with his Cook-maid, lay under some such Apprehensions from her when I was there. These Slaves also of either Sex will easily be engaged to do any sort of Mischief; even to Murder, if they are hired to do it, especially in the Night: for which Reason, I kept my Men on board as much as I could; for one of the French King's Ships being here had several Men murder'd by them in the Night, as I was credibly in­form'd.

Having given this account of the Town of Bahia, I shall next say somewhat of the Country. There is a Salt-water Lake runs 40 Leagues, as I was told, up the Country, N. W. from the Sea, leaving the Town and Dutch Fort on the Star­board fide. The Country all round a­bout is for the most part a pretty flat e­ven Ground, not high, nor yet very low: It is well watered with Rivers, Brooks and Springs, neither wants it for good Harbours, Navigable Creeks, and good Bays for Ships to ride in. The Soil in general is good, naturally producing very latge Trees of divers sorts, and fit for any uses. The Savannahs also are loaden with Grass, Herbs, and many sorts of smaller Vegetables; and being cultivated, produce any thing that is proper for those hot Countrys, as Sugar-Canes, Cotton, Indi­co, [Page 63] Tobacco, Maiz, Fruit-Trees of seve­ral kinds, and Eatable Roots of all sorts. Of the several kinds of Trees that are here, I shall give an account of some, as I had it partly from an Inhabitant of Bahia, and partly from my knowledge of them other­wise, viz. Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comesse­rie, Guitteba, Serrie, as they were pronounc'd to me, three sorts of Mangrove, speckled Wood, Fustick, Cotton-Trees of three sorts, &c. together with Fruit-Trees of divers sorts that grow wild, beside such as are planted.

Of Timber-Trees, the Sapiera is said to be large and tall; it is very good Timber, and is made use of in building of Houses; so is the Vermiatico, a tall streight-bodied Tree, of which they make Plank 2 Foot broad, and they also make Canoa's with it. Comesserie and Guitteba are chiesly u­sed in building Ships; these are as much esteemed here, as Oaks are in England, and they say either sort is harder and more durable than Oak. The Serrie is a sort of Tree much like Elm, very durable in water. Here are also all the three sorts of Mangrove Trees, viz. the Red, the White, and the Black, which I have de­scribed [ Vol. I. p. 54.] The Bark of the Red Mangrove, is here used for Tanning of Leather, and they have great Tan-pits for it. The Black Mangrove grows lar­ger [Page 64] here than in the West-Indies, and of it they make good Plank. The White Mangrove is larger and tougher than in the West-Indies; of these they make Masts and Yards for Barks.

There grow here Wild or Bastard Co­co Nut Trees, neither so large nor so tall as the common ones in the East or West-Indies. They bear Nuts as the others, but not a quarter so big as the right Coco-Nuts. The shell is full of Kernel, with­out any hollow Place or Water in it; and the Kernel is sweet and wholesome, but very hard both for the Teeth and for Di­gestion. These Nuts are in much esteem for making Beads for Pater-noster's, Boles of Tobacco-pipes, and other Toys: and every small Shop here has a great many of them to sell. At the top of these Bastard Coco-trees, among the Branches, there grows a sort of long black Thread like Horse-hair, but much longer, which by the Portuguese is called Tresabo. Of this they make Cables which are very service­able, strong and lasting; for they will not rot as Cables made of Hemp, tho' they ly exposed both to Wet and Heat. These are the Cables which I said they keep in their Harbours here, to let to hire to European Ships, and resemble the Coyre-Cables.

Here are three sorts of Cotton Trees that bear Silk-cotton. One sort is such as I [Page 65] have formerly described, [Vol. I. p. 165.] by the Name of the Cotton-tree. The other two sorts I never saw any where but here. The Trees of these latter sorts are but small in comparison of the former, which are reckon'd the biggest in all the West-India Woods; yet are however of a good bigness and heighth. One of these last sorts is not so full of Branches as the other of them; neither do they produce their Fruit the same time of the Year: for one sort had its Fruit just ripe, and was shedding its Leaves while the other sort was yet green, and its Fruit small and growing, having but newly done blossom­ing; the Tree being as full of young Fruit as an Apple-Tree ordinarily in England. These last yield very large Pods, about 6 inches long, and as big as a Man's Arm. It is ripe in September and October; then the Pod opens, and the Cotton bursts out in a great Lump as big as a Man's Head. They gather these Pods before they open: otherways it would fly all away. It opens as well after 'tis gathered; and then they take out the Cotton, and preserve it to sill Pillows and Bolsters, for which use 'tis very much esteemed: but 'tis fit for no­thing else, being so short that it cannot be spun. 'Tis of a tawney Colour; and the Seeds are black, very round, and as big as a white Pea. The other sort is ripe [Page 66] in March or April. The Fruit or Pod is like a large Apple, and very round. The out-side Shell is as thick as the top of ones Finger. Within this there is a very thin whitish Bag or Skin which incloseth the Cotton. When the Cotton-Apple is ripe the outer thick green Shell splits it self into 5 equal parts from Stemb to Tail, and drops off, leaving the Cotton hanging upon the Stemb, only pent up in its fine Bag. A day or two afterwards the Cotton swells by the heat of the Sun, breaks the Bag and bursts out, as big as a Man's Head: And then as the Wind blows 'tis by degrees driven away, a little at a time, out of the Bag that still hangs upon the Stemb, and is scatter'd about the Fields; the Bag soon following the Cotton, and the Stemb the Bag. Here is also a little of the right West-India Cotton Shrub; but none of the Cotton is exported, nor do they make much Cloth of it.

This Country produces great variety of fine Fruits, as very good Oranges of 3 or 4 sorts; (especially one sort of China Oran­ges;) Limes in abundance, Pomgranets, Pomecitrons, Plantains, Bonano's, right Coco-nuts, Guava's, Coco-plumbs, (call'd here Munsheroo's) Wild-Grapes, such as I have describ'd [Vol. II. Part 2. p. 46.] beside such Grapes as grow in Europe Here are also Hog-plumbs, Custard-Ap­ples, [Page 67] Sour-sops, Cashews, Papah's (called here Mamoons) Jennipah's (called here Jenni-papah's) Manchineel-Apples and Man­go's. Mango's are yet but rare here: I saw none of them but in the Jesuit's Gar­den, which has a great many fine Fruits, and some Cinamon-trees. These, both of them, were first brought from the East-Indies, and they thrive here very well: So do Pumplemusses, brought also from thence; and both China and Sevil Oranges are here very plentiful as well as good.

The Sour-sop (as we call it) is a large Fruit as big as a Man's Head, of a long or oval Shape, and of a green Colour; but one side is Yellowish when ripe. The out­side Rind or Coat is pretty thick, and very rough, with small sharp Knobs; the in­side is full of spungy Pulp, within which also are many black Seeds or Kernels, in shape and bigness like a Pumkin-seed. The Pulp is very juicy, of a pleasant Taste, and wholesome. You suck the Juice out of the Pulp, and so spit it out. The Tree or Shrub that bears this Fruit grows about 10 or 12 Foot high, with a small short Body; the Branches growing pretty strait up; for I did never see any of them spread abroad. The Twigs are slender and tough; and so is the Stemb of the Fruit. This Fruit grows also both in the East and VVest-Indies.

[Page 68] The Cashew is a Fruit as big as a Pippin, pretty long, and bigger near the Stemb than at the other end, growing tapering. The Rind is smooth and thin, of a red and yellow Colour. The Seed of this Fruit grows at the end of it; 'tis of an Olive Colour shaped like a Bean, and about the same bigness, but not altogether so flat. The Tree is as big as an Apple tree, with Branches not thick, yet spreading off. The Boughs are gross, the Leaves broad and round, and in substance pretty thick. This Fruit is soft and spongy when ripe, and so full of Juice that in biting it the Juice will run out on both sides of ones Mouths. It is very pleasant, and gratefully rough on the Tongue; and is accounted a very wholesome Fruit. This grows both in the East and West Indies, where I have seen and eaten of it.

The Jenipah or Jenipapah is a sort of Fruit of the Calabash or Gourd-kind. It is about the bigness of a Duck-Egg, and somewhat of an Oval Shape; and is of a grey Colour. The Shell is not altogether so thick nor hard as a Calabash: 'Tis full of whitish Pulp mixt with small flat Seeds; and both Pulp and Seeds must be taken in­to the Mouth, where sucking out the Pulp you spit out Seeds. It is of a sharp and pleasing Taste, and is very innocent. The Tree that bears it is much like an Ash, [Page 69] strait-bodied, and of a good heighth; clean from Limbs till near the top, where there branches forth a small Head. The Rind is of a pale grey, and so is the Fruit. We us'd of this Tree to make Helves or Handles for Axes (for which it is very pro­per) in the Bay of Campeachy; where I have seen of them, and no where else but here.

Beside these, here are many sorts of Fruits which I have not met with any where but here; as Arisah's, Mericasah's, Petango's, &c. Arisah's are an excellent Fruit, not much bigger than a large Cherry; shaped like a Catherine-Pear, being small at the Stemb, and swelling bigger towards the end. They are of a greenish colour, and have small Seeds as big as Mustard-Seeds. They are somewhat tart, yet pleasant, and ve­ry wholsom, and may be eaten by sick People.

Mericasah's, are an excellent Fruit, of which there are two sorts; one growing on a small Tree or Shrub, which is count­ed the best; the other growing on a kind of Shrub like a Vine, which they plant about Arbours to make a shade, having many broad Leaves. The Fruit is as big as a small Orange, round and green. When they are ripe they are soft and fit to eat; full of white pulp mixt thick with little black Seeds, and there is no separating one from the other, till they are in your [Page 70] Mouth; when you suck in the white Pulp and spit out the Stones. They are tart, pleasant, and very wholsome.

Petango's are a small red Fruit, that grow also on small Trees, and are as big as Cherries, but not so Globular, having one flat side, and also 5 or 6 small protule­rant Ridges. 'Tis a very pleasant tart Fruit, and has a pretty large flattish Stone in the middle.

Petumbo's, are a yellow Fruit (grow­ing on a shrub like a Vine) bigger than Cherries, with a pretty large Stone: These are sweet, but rough in the Mouth.

Mungaroo's, are a Fruit as big as Cher­ries, red on one side and white on the o­ther side: They are said to be full of small Seeds, which are commonly swallowed in eating them.

Muckishaw's, are said to be a Fruit as big as Crab-Apples, growing on large Trees. They have also small Seeds in the mid­dle, and are well tasted.

Ingwa's, are a Fruit like the Locust-Fruit, 4 Inches long, and one broad. They grow on high Trees.

Otee, is a Fruit as big as a large Coco-Nut. It hath a Husk on the outside, and a large Stone within, and is a accounted a very fine Fruit.

[Page 71] Musteran-de-ova's, are a round Fruit as big as large Hazel-Nuts, cover'd with thin brittle shells of a blackish colour: They have a small Stone in the middle, inclosed within a black pulpy substance, which is of a pleasant taste. The outside shell is chewed with the Fruit, and spit out with the Stone, when the pulp is suck'd from them. The Tree that bears this Fruit is tall, large, and very hard Wood. I have not seen any of these five last named Fruits, but had them thus described to me by an Irish Inhabitant of Bahia; tho' as to this last, I am apt to believe, I may have both seen and eaten of them in Achin in Su­matra.

Palm-Berries (called here Dendees) grow plentifully about Bahia; the largest are as big as Wall-nuts; they grow in bunches on the top of the Body of the Tree, a­mong the Roots of the Branches or Leaves, as all Fruits of the Palm kind do. These are the same kind of Berries or Nuts as those they make the Palm-Oyl with on the Coast of Guinea, where they abound: And I was told that they make Oyl with them here also. They sometimes roast and eat them; but when I had one roasted to prove it, I did not like it.

Physick-Nuts, as our Seamen call them, are called here Pineon; and Agnus Castus is called here Carrepat: These both grow [Page 72] here: so do Mendibees, a Fruit like Physick-Nuts. They scorch them in a Pan over the fire before they eat them.

Here are also great plenty of Cabbage-Trees, and other Fruits, which I did not get information about, and which I had not the opportunity of seeing; because this was not the Season, it being our Spring, and consequently their Autumn, when their best Fruits were gone, tho' some were left. However I saw abundance of wild Berries in the Woods and Field, but I could not learn their Names or Nature.

They have withal good plenty of ground Fruit, as Callavances, Pine-Apples, Pum­kins, Water-Melons, Musk-Melons, Cu­cumbers; and Roots, as Yams, Potato's Cassava's, &c. Garden Herbs also good store; as Cabbages, Turnips, Onions, Leeks, and abundance of other Salading, and for the Pot. Drugs of several sorts, viz. Sassafras, Snake-Root, &c. Beside the Woods I mentioned for Dying, and other Uses, as Fustick, Speckled-wood, &c.

I brought home with me from hence a good number of Plants, dried between the leaves of Books; of some of the choicest of which, that are not spoil'd, I may give a Specimen at the End of the Book.

Here are said to be great plenty and va­riety of Wild-Fowl, viz. Yemma's, Maccaw's (which are called here Jackoo's, and are a larger sort of Parrots, and scarcer) Par­rots, [Page 73] Parakites, Flamingo's, Carrion-Crows, Chattering-Crows, Cockrecoes, Bill-Birds finely painted, Corresoes, Doves, Pigeons, Jenetees, Clocking-Hens, Crabcatchers, Galdens, Currecoo's, Moscovy Ducks, common Ducks, Widgeons, Teal, Cur­lews, Men of War Birds, Booby's, Nod­dy's, Pelicans, &c.

The Yemma is bigger than a Swan, grey­feathered, with a long thick sharp-point­ed Bill.

The Carrion-Crow and Chattering-Crows, are called here Mackeraw's, and are like those I described in the West-Indies, [ Vol. II. Part II. p. 67.] The Bill of the Chattering-Crow is black, and the Upper-Bill is round, bending downwards like a Hawks-Bill, rising up in a ridge almost semicircular, and very sharp, both at the Ridge or Convexity, and at the Point or Extremity: The Lower-Bill is flat and shuts even with it. I was told by a Por­tegueze here, that their Negro-Wenches make Love-Potions with these Birds. And the Portuguese care not to let them have any of these Birds, to keep them from that Superstition: As I found one Afternoon when I was in the Fields with a Padre and another, who shot two of them, and hid them, as they said, for that reason. They are not good Food, but their Bills are reckoned a good Antidote against Poi­son.

[Page 74] The Bill-Birds are so called by the En­glish, from their monstrous Bills, which are as big as their Bodies. I saw none of these Birds here, but saw several of the Breasts flea'd off and dried, for the beau­ty of them; the Feathers were curiously colour'd with red, yellow, and Orange-colour.

The Curreso's (called here Mackeraw's) are such as are in the Bay of Campeachy [Vol. 2. Part 2. p. 67.]

Turtle-Doves are in great plenty here; and two sorts of Wild Pigeons; the one sort blackish, the other a light grey: The blackish or dark grey are the bigger, be­ing as large as our Wood-Quests, or Wood-Pigeons in England. Both sorts are very good Meat; and are in such plenty from May till September, that a Man may shoot 8 or 10 Dozen in several Shots at one standing, in a close misty Morning, when they come to seed on Berries that grow in the Woods.

The Jenetee is a Bird as big as a Lark, with blackish Feathers, and yellow Legs and Feet. 'Tis accounted very wholsom Food.

Clocking-Hens, are much like the Crab­catchers, which I have described [ Vol. II. Part 2. p. 70.] but the Legs are not alto­gether so long. They keep always in swampy wet places, tho' their Claws are [Page 75] like Land-Fowl's Claws. They make a Noise or Cluck like our Brood-Hens, or Dunghil-Hens, when they have Chickens, and for that reason they are called by the English Clocking Hens. There are many of them in the Bay of Campeachy (tho' I omitted to speak of them there) and else­where in the West-Indies. There are both here and there four sorts of these long­leg'd Fowls, near a-kin to each other, as so many Sub-Species of the same Kind; viz. Crab catchers, Clocking-Hens, Gal­dens (which three are in shape and co­lour like Herons in England, but less; the Galden, the biggest of the three, the Crab­catcher the smallest;) and a fourth sort which are black, but shaped like the other, having long Legs and short Tails; these are about the bigness of Crab-catchers, and feed as they do.

Currecoos, are Water Fowls, as big as pretty large Chickens, of a bluish colour, with short Legs and Tail; they feed al­so in swampy Ground, and are very good Meat. I have not seen of them else­where.

The Wild-Ducks here are said to be of two sorts, the Muscovy, and the com­mon-Ducks. In the wet Season here are abundance of them, but in the dry time but few. Wigeon and Teal also are said to be in great plenty here in the wet Sea­son.

[Page 76] To the Southward of Bahia there are al­so Ostridges in great plenty, tho', 'tis said, they are not so large as those of Africa: They are found chiefly in the Southern Parts of Brasil, especially among the large Savanahs near the River of Plate; and from thence further South towards the Streights of Magellan.

As for Tame Fowl at Bahia, the chief beside their Ducks, are Dunghil-Fowls, os which they have two sorts; one sort much of the size of our Cocks and Hens; the other very large: and the Feathers of these last are a long time coming forth; so that you see them very naked when half grown; but when they are full grown and well feathered, they appear very large Fowls, as indeed they are; neither do they want for price; for they are sold at Bahia sor half a Crown or three Shillings apiece, just as they are brought first to Market out of the Countrey, when they are so lean as to be scarce fit to Eat.

The Land Animals here are Horses, black Cattle, Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Hogs, Leopards, Tigers, Foxes, Mon­keys, Pecary (a sort of wild Hogs, called here Pica) Armadillo, Alligaters, Guano's (called Quittee) Lizards, Serpents, Toads, Frogs, and a sort of Amphibious Crea­tures called by the Portuguese Cuchora's de agua, in English Water-Dogs.

[Page 77] The Leopards and Tigers of this Coun­try are said to be large and very fierce: But here on the Coast they are either de­stroyed, or driven back towards the heart of the Country; and therefore are seldom found but in the Borders and Out-planta­tions, where they oftentimes do Mischief. Here are three or four sorts of Monkeys, of different Sizes and Colours. One sort is very large; and another sort is very small: These last are ugly in Shape and Feature, and have a strong Scent of Musk.

Here are several sorts of Serpents, many of them vastly great, and most of them very venomous: As the Rattle-snake for one: and for Venome, a small Green Snake is bad enough, no bigger than the Stemb of a Tobacco-pipe, and about 18 Inches long, very common here.

They have here also the Amphisbaena, or Two-headed Snake, of a grey Colour, mixt with blackish Stripes, whose Bite is reckon'd to be incurable. 'Tis said to be blind, tho' it has two small Specks in each Head like Eyes: but whether it sees or not I cannot tell. They say it lives like a Mole, mostly under Ground; and that when it is found above Ground it is easily kill'd, because it moves but slowly: Nei­ther is its Sight (if it hath any) so good as to discern any one that comes near to Kill [Page 78] as few of these Creatures fly at a Man, or hurt him but when he comes in their Way. 'Tis about 14 Inches long, and about the bigness of the inner joint of a Man's mid­dle Finger; being of one and the same bigness from one end to the other, with a Head at each end, (as they said; for I cannot vouch it, for one I had was cut short at one end) and both alike in shape and bigness; and 'tis said to move with either Head formost, indifferently; whence 'tis called by the Portugueze, Cobra de dos Cabesas, the Snake with two Heads.

The small black Snake is a very veno­mous Creature.

There is also a grey Snake, with red and brown Spots all over its Back. 'Tis as big as a Man's Arm, and about 3 Foot long, and is said to be venomous. I saw one of these.

Here are two sorts of very large Snakes or Serpents: One of 'em a Land-snake, the other a Water-snake. The Land-snake is of a grey colour, and about 18 or 20 Foot long: Not very Venomous, but Ravenous. I was promised the sight of one of their Skins, but wanted opportu­nity.

The Water-snake is said to be near 30 Foot long. These live wholly in the Wa­ter, either in large Rivers, or great Lakes, and prey upon any Creature that comes [Page 79] within their reach, be it Man or Beast. They draw their Prey to them with their Tails: for when they see any thing on the Banks of the River or Lake where they lurk, they swing about their Tails 10 or 12 Foot over the Bank; and whatever stands within their Sweep is snatcht with great Violence into the River, and drown­ed by them. Nay 'tis reported very cre­dibly that if they see only a shade of any Animal at all on the Water, they will flourish their Tails to bring in the Man or Beast whose shade they see, and are often­times too successful in it. Wherefore Men that have Business near any place where these Water-Monsters are suspected to lurk, are always provided with a Gun, which they often fire, and that scares them away, or keeps them quiet. They are said to have great Heads, and strong Teeth a­bout 6 Inches long. I was told by an Irish Man who lived here, that his Wives Fa­ther was very near being taken by one of them about the time of my first Arrival here, when his Father was with him up in the Country: for the Beast flourisht his Tail for him, but came not nigh enough by a yard or two; however it scared him sufficiently.

The Amphibious Creatures here which I said are called by the Portuguese Cuchora's de Agua, or Water-dogs, are said to be as [Page 80] big as small Mastives, and are all hairy and shaggy from Head to Tail. They have 4 short Legs, a pretty long Head and short Tail; and are of a blackish colour. They live in fresh Water-ponds, and of­tentimes come ashore and Sun themselves; but retire to the Water if assaulted. They are eaten, and said to be good Food. Se­veral of these Creatures which I have now spoken of I have not seen, but inform'd my self about them while I was here at Bahia, from sober and sensible Persons a­mong the Inhabitants, among whom I met with some that could speak English.

In the Sea upon this Coast there is great store and diversity of Fish, viz. Jew-fish, for which there is a great Market at Bahia in Lent: Tarpom's, Mullets, Groopers, Snooks, Gar-fish (called here Goolion's), Gorasses, Barrama's, Coquinda's, Caval­lie's, Cuchora's (or Dog-fish) Conger-Eeles, Herrings (as I was told) the Ser­rew, the Olio de Boy, (I write and spell them just as they were named to me) Whales, &c.

Here is also Shell-fish (tho' in less plenty about Bahia than on other parts of the Coast) viz. Lobsters, Craw-fish, Shrimps, Crabs, Oysters of the common sort, Conchs, Wilks, Cockles, Muscles, Perri­winkles, &c. Here are three sorts of Sea-Turtle, viz. Hawksbill, Loggerhead, and [Page 81] Green: but none of them are in any esteem, neither Spaniards nor Portuguese loving them: Nay they have a great An­tipathy against them, and would much ra­ther eat a Porpose, tho' our English count the Green Turtle very extraordinary Food. The Reason that is commonly given in the West-Indies for the Spaniards not caring to eat of them, is the fear they have lest be­ing usually foul-bodied, and many of them pox'd (lying, as they do, so promiscuous­ly with their Negrines and other She­slaves) they should break out loathsomely like Lepers; which this sort of Food, 'tis said, does much incline Men to do, search­ing the Body, and driving out any such gross Humors: for which cause many of our English Valetudinarians have gone from Jamaica (tho' there they have also Turtle) to the I. Caimanes, at the Laying­time, to live wholly upon Turtle that then abound there; purposely to have their Bodies scour'd by this Food, and their Di­stempers driven out: and have been said to have found many of them good Success in it. But this by the way. The Hawks­bill-Turtle on this Coast of Brazil is most sought after of any, for its Shell, which by Report of those I have convers'd with at Bahia, is the clearest and best-clouded Tortoise-shell in the World. I had some of it shewn me, which was indeed as good [Page 82] as I ever saw. They get a pretty deal of it in some Parts on this Coast; but 'tis ve­ry dear.

Besides this Port of Bahia de todos los San­tos, there are two more principal Ports on Brazil, where European Ships Trade, viz. Pernambuc and Ria Janeira; and I was told that there go as many Ships to each of these Places as to Bahia, and two Men of War to each Place for their Convoys. Of the other Ports in this Country none is of greater Note than that of St. Paul's, where they gather much Gold; but the Inhabitants are said to be a sort of Banditti, or loose People that live under no Govern­ment: but their Gold brings them all sorts of Commodities that they need, as Cloths, Arms, Ammunition, &c. The Town is said to be large and strong.

MY stay here at Bahia was about a Month: during which time the Vice Roy of Goa came hither from thence in a great Ship, said to be richly laden with all sorts of India Goods; but she did not break Bulk here, being bound home for Lisbon: only the Vice-Roy intended to re­fresh his Men (of whom he had lost many, and most of the rest were very sickly, having been 4 Months in their Voyage hi­ther) and so to take in Water, and depart for Europe, in Company with the other [Page 85] Portuguese Ships thither Bound; who had Orders to be ready to Sail by the twentieth of May. He desir'd me to car­ry a Letter for him, directed to his Suc­cessor, the new Vice-Roy of Goa: Which I did; sending it thither afterwards by Captain Hammond, whom I found near the Cape of Good Hope. The Refresh­ing my Men, and taking in Water, was the main also of my Business here; be­side the having the better opportuni­ty to compose the Disorders among my Crew: Which, as I have before relat­ed, were grown to so great a Heighth, that they could not without great Dif­ficulty be appeased: However, finding Opportunity, during my stay in this Place, to allay in some measure the Ferment that had been raised among my Men, I now set my self to provide for the car­rying on of my Voyage with more Heart than before, and put all Hands to work, in order to it, as fast as the backwardness of my Men would per­mit; who shew'd continually their un­willingness to proceed farther. Besides, their Heads were generally fill'd with strange Notions of Southerly Winds that were now setting in (and there had been already some Flurries of them) [Page 86] which, as they surmiz'd, would hinder any farther Attempts of going on to the Southward, so long as they should last.

The Winds begin to shift here in April and September, and the Seasons of the Year (the Dry and the Wet) alter with them. In April the Southerly Winds make their entrance on this Coast, bringing in the Wet Season, with violent Tornado's, Thunder and Light­ning, and much Rain. In September the other Coasting Trade, at East North East comes in, and clears the Sky, bring­ing fair Weather. This, as to the change of Wind, is what I have observ'd Vol. II. Part 3. p. 19. but as to the change of Weather accompanying it so exactly here at Bahia, this is a particular Excep­tion to what I have Experienc'd in all other Places of South Latitudes that I have been in between the Tropicks, or those I have heard of; for there the Dry Seasons sets in, in April, and the Wet about October or November, sooner or later (as I have said that they are, in South Latitudes, the Reverse of the Seasons, or Weather, in the same Months in N. La­titudes Vol. II. Part 3. p. 77.) whereas on this Coast of Brazil, the Wet Season [Page 87] comes in in April, at the same time that it doth in N. Latitudes, and the Dry (as I have said here) in September; the Rains here not lasting so far in the year as in o­ther Places: for in September the Weather is usually so fair, that in the latter part of that Month they begin to cut their Su­gar-Canes here, as I was told; for I en­quired particularly about the Seasons: Though this, as to the Season of cut­ting of Canes, which I was now as­sur'd to be in September, agrees not very well with what I was formerly told [Vol. II. Part 3. p. 82.] that in Brazil they cut the Canes in July. And so, as to what is said a little lower in the same Page, that in managing their Canes they are not confin'd to the Seasons, this ought to have been express'd only of Planting them; for they never cut them but in the Dry Season.

But to return to the Southerly Winds, which came in (as I expected they would) while I was here: These daunted my Ship's Company very much, tho' I had told them they were to look for them: But they being ignorant as to what I told them farther, that these were only Coast­ing-Winds, sweeping the Shore to about 40 or 50 Leagues in breadth from it; and imagining that they had blown so all the [...]ea over, between America and Africa; [Page 88] and being confirm'd in this their Opinion by the Portuguese Pilots of the European Ships, with whom several of my Officers conversed much, and who were them­selves as ignorant that these were only Coasting Trade-Winds (themselves going away before them, in their return home­wards, till they cross the Line, and so ha­ving no experience of the Breadth of them) being thus possess'd with a Conceit that we could not Sail from hence till September; this made them still the more remiss in their Duties, and very listless to the get­ting Things in a readiness for our Depar­ture. However I was the more diligent my Self to have the Ship scrub'd, and to send my Water-Casks ashore to get them trim'd, my Beer being now out. I went also to the Governor to get my Water fill'd; sor here being but one Watering-place (and the Water running low, now at the end of the Dry Season) it was al­ways so crouded with the European Ships Boats, who were preparing to be gone, that my Men could seldom come nigh it, till the Governor very kindly sent an Of­ficer to clear the Water-place for my Men, and to stay there till my Wates-Casks were all full, whom I satisfied sor his Pains. Here I also got Aboard 9 or 10 Tun of Ballast, and made my Boatswain fit the [Page 89] Rigging that was amiss: and I enquired also of my particular Officers whose Bu­siness it was, whether they wanted any Stores, especially Pitch and Tar; for that here I wou'd supply my self before I pro­ceeded any farther: but they say they had enough, tho' it did not afterwards prove so.

I commonly went ashore every day, either upon Business, or to recreate my self in the Fields, which were very plea­sant, and the more for a shower of Rain now and then, that ushers in the Wet Sea­son. Several sorts of good Fruits were al­so still remaining, especially Oranges, which were in such plenty, that I and all my Company stock'd our selves for our Voyage with them, and they did us a great kindness; and we took in also a good quantity of Rum and Sugar: But for Fowls, they being here lean and dear, I was glad I had stockt my self at St. Jago. But by the little care my Officers took for fresh Provisions, one might conclude, they did not think of going much farther. Be­sides, I had like to have been imbroiled with the Clergy here (of the Inquisition, as I suppose) and so my Voyage might have been hindred. What was said to them of me, by some of my Company that went ashore, I know not; but I was assur'd by a Merchant there, that if they got me into their Clutches (and [Page 90] it seems, when I was last ashore they had narrowly watch'd me) the Governor him­self could not release me. Besides I might either be murther'd in the Streets, as he sent me word, or Poysoned, if I came a­shore any more; and therefore he advised me to stay aboard. Indeed I had now no further Business ashore but to take leave of the Governor, and therefore took his Ad­vice.

Our Stay here was till the 23d of April. I would have gone before if I could sooner have fitted my self; but was now earnest to be gone, because this Harbour lies open to the S. and S. S. W. which are raging Winds here, and now was the Season for them. We had had two or three Touches of them; and one pretty severe: and the Ships ride there so near each other, that if a Cable should fail, or an Anchor start, you are instantly aboard of one Ship or other: and I was more afraid of being dis­abled here in Harbour by these blustring Winds, than discouraged by them, as my People were, from prosecuting the Voy­age; for at present I even wish'd for a brisk Southerly Wind as soon as I should be once well out of the Harbour, to set me the sooner into the True General Trade-Wind.

The Tide of Flood being spent, and having a fine Land-Breez on the 23d. in [Page 91] the Morning, I went away from the An­choring-place before 'twas light; and then lay by till Day-light that we might see the better how to go out of the Harbour. I had a Pilot belonging to Mr. Cock who went out with me, to whom I gave three Dollars; but I found I could as well have gone out my Self, by the Soundings I made at coming in. The Wind was E. by N. and fair Weather. By 10 a Clock I was got past all danger, and then sent away my Pilot. At 12 Cape Salvadore bore N. di­stant 6 Leagues, and we had the Winds between the E. by N. and S. E. a consi­derable time, so that we kept along near the Shore, commonly in sight of it. The Southerly Blasts had now left us again; for they come at first in short Flurries, and shift to other Points (for 10 or 12 days sometimes) before they are quite set in: And we had uncertain Winds, between Sea and Land-Breezes, and the Coasting-Trade, which was its self unsetled.

The Easterly-Winds at present made me doubt I should not weather a great Shoal which lies in Lat. between 18 deg. and 19 deg. S. and runs a great way into the Sea, directly from the Land, Easterly. Indeed the Weather was fair (and conti­nued so a good while) so that I might the better avoid any Danger from it: and if the Wind came to the Southward I knew [Page 92] I could stretch off to Sea; so that I jogg'd on couragiously. The 27th of April we saw a small Brigantine under the Shore plying to the Southward. We also saw many Men of War-birds and Boobies, and abundance of Albicore-Fish. Having still fair Weather, small Gales, and some Calms, I had the opportunity of trying the Current, which I found to set some­times Northerly and sometimes Southerly: and therefore knew I was still within the Verge of the Tides. Being now in the Lat. of the Abrohlo Shoals, which I expected to meet with, I sounded, and had Water lessening from 40 to 33. and so to 25 Fa­thom: but then it rose again to 33, 35, 37. &c. all Coral Rocks. Whilst we were on this Shoal (which we crosst towards the further part of it from Land, where it lay deep, and so was not dangerous) we caught a great many Fish with Hook and Line; and by evening Amplitude we had 6 deg. 38 min. East Variation. This was the 27th of April; we were then in Lat. 18 deg. 13 min. S. and East Longitude from Cape Salvadore 31 min. On the 29th, being then in Lat. 18 deg. 39 min. S. we had small Gales from the W. N. W. to the W. S. W. often shifting. The 30th we had the Winds from W. to S. S. E. Squals and Rain: and we saw some Dol­phins and other Fish about us. We were [Page 93] now out of sight of Land, and had been so 4 or 5 Days: but the Wind's now hang­ing in the South was an apparent Sign that we were still too nigh the Shore to receive the True General East-Trade; as the Easterly Winds we had before shew'd that we were too far off the Land to have the Benefit of the Coasting South-Trade: and the faintness of both these Winds, and their often shifting from the S. S. W. to the S. E. with Squalls, Rain and small Gales, were a Confirmation of our being between the Verge of the S. Coasting-Trade, and that of the True Trade; which is here, regularly, S. E.

The third of May being in Lat. 20 deg. 00 min. and Merid. distance West from Cape Salvadore 234 Miles, the Variation was 7 deg. 00 min. We saw no Fowl but Shear-waters, as our Sea-men call them, being a small black Fowl that sweep the Water as they fly, and are much in the Seas that lie without either of the Tropicks: they are not eaten. We caught 3 small Sharks, each 6 Foot 4 Inches long; and they were very good Food for us. The next day we caught 3 more Sharks of the same size, and we eat them also, esteem­ing them as good Fish boil'd and presst, and then stew'd with Vinegar and Pep­per.

[Page 94] We had nothing of Remark from the 3d of May to the 10th, only now and then seeing a small Whale spouting up the Water. We had the Wind Easterly, and we ran with it to the Southward, running in this time from the Lat. of 20 deg. 00 m. to 29 deg. 5 min. S. and having, then, 7 d. 3 m. E. Long. from C. Salvadore; the Va­riation increasing upon us, at present, notwithstanding we went East. We had all along a great difference between the Morning and Evening Amplitudes; usual­ly a degree or two, and sometimes more. We were now in the True Trade, and therefore made good way to the South­ward, to get without the Verge of the General Trade Wind into a Westerly Wind's way, that might carry us towards the Cape of Good Hope. By the 12th of May, being in Lat. 31 deg. 10 min. we began to meet with Westerly Winds, which freshned on us, and did not leave us till a little before we made the Cape. Some­times it blew so hard that it put us under a fore-course; especially in the Night: but in the day-time we had commonly our Main Top-sail rist. We met with nothing of moment; only we past by a dead Whale, and saw millions (as I may say) of Sea-Fowls about the Carkass (and as far round about it as we could see) some Feeding, and the rest flying about, or sit­ting [Page 95] on the Water, waiting to take their Turns. We first discovered the Whale by the Fowls; for indeed I did never see so many Fowls at once in my Life before, their Numbers being inconceivably great: They were of divers sorts, in Bigness, Shape and Colour. Some were almost as big as Geese, of a grey Colour, with White Breasts, and with such Bills, Wings, and Tails. Some were Pintado Birds, as big as Ducks, and speckled Black and White. Some were Shear-waters; some Petrels; and there were several sorts of large Fowls. We saw of these Birds, es­pecially the Pintado-birds, all the Sea over from about 200 Leagues distant from the Coast of Brazil, to within much the same distance of New Holland. The Pintado is a Southern Bird, and of that Temperate Zone; for I never saw of them much to the Norward of 30 deg. S. The Pintado-bird is as big as a Duck; but appears, as it flies, about the bigness of a tame Pigeon, having a short Tail, but the Wings very long, as most Sea-Fowls have; especially such as these that fly far from the Shore, and seldom come nigh it: for their Rest­ing is sitting afloat upon the Water; but they lay, I suppose, ashore. There are three sorts of these Birds, all of the same make and bigness, and are only different in Colour. The first is black all over: [Page 96] The second sort are grey, with white Bellies and Breasts. The third sort, which is the true Pintado, or Painted-bird, is cu­riously spotted white and black. Their Heads, and the tips of their Wings and Tails, are black for about an Inch; and their Wings are also edg'd quite round with such a small black List: only within the black on the tip of their Wings there is a white Spot seeming as they fly (for then their Spots are best seen) as big as a Half-crown. All this is on the outside of the Tails and Wings; and as there is a white Spot in the black Tip of the Wings, so there is in the middle of the Wings which is white, a black Spot; but this, towards the Back of the Bird, turns gradu­ally to a dark grey. The Back its self, from the Head to the Tip of the Tail, and the Edge of the Wings next to the Back, are all over-spotted with fine small, round, white and black Spots, as big as a Silver Two-pence, and as close as they can stick one by another: The Belly, Thighs, Sides, and inner part of the Wings are of a light Grey. These Birds, of all these sorts, fly many together, never high, but almost sweeping the Water. We shot one a while after on the Water in a Calm, and a Wa­ter-Spaniel we had with us brought it in: I have given a Picture of it [See Birds. Fig. 1.] but it was so damaged, that the Picture

[Page 97] doth not shew it to advantage; and its Spots are best seen when the Feathers are spread as it flies.

The Petrel is a Bird not much unlike a Swallow, but smaller, and with a shorter Tail. 'Tis all over black, except a white Spot on the Rump. They fly sweeping like Swallows, and very near the Water. They are not so often seen in fair Weather; being Foul-weather Birds, as our Seamen call them, and presaging a Storm when they come about a Ship; who for that Reason don't love to see them. In a Storm they will hover close under the Ship's Stern, in the Wake of the Ship (as 'tis call'd) or the smoothness which the Ship's passing has made on the Sea: and there as they fly (gently then) they pat the Water alter­nately with their Feet, as if they walkt upon it; tho' still upon the Wing. And from hence the Seamen give them the name of Petrels, in allusion to St. Peter's walking upon the Lake of Gennesareth.

We also saw many Bunches of Sea­weeds in the Lat. of 39. 32. and by Judg­ment, near the Meridian of the Island Tri­stian d'Aconha: and then we had about 2 d. 20 min. East Variation; which was now again decreasing as we ran to the Eastward, all near the Meridian of Ascention; where we found little or no Variation: But from thence, as we ran farther to the East, our Variation increased Westerly.

[Page 98] Two days before I made the Cape of G. Hope, my Variation was 7 deg. 58 min. West. I was then in 43 deg. 27 min. East Longit. from C. Salvador, being in Lat. 35 deg. 30 min. this was the first of June. The second of June I saw a large black Fowl, with a whitish flat Bill, fly by us; and took great notice of it, because in the East-India Waggoner, or Pilot-book, there is mention made of large Fowls, as big as Ravens, with white flat Bills and black Feathers, that fly not above 30 Leagues from the Cape, and are lookt on as a Sign of ones being near it. My Reck­oning made me then think my self above 90 Leagues from the Cape, according to the Longitude which the Cape hath in the com­mon Sea-Charts: so that I was in some doubt, whether these were the right Fowls spoken of in the Waggoner; or whether those Fowls might not fly farther off Shore than is there mentioned; or whe­ther, as it prov'd, I might not be nearer the Cape than I reckoned my self to be: for I found, soon after, that I was not then above 25 or 30 Leagues at most from the Cape. Whether the fault were in the Charts laying down the Cape too much to the East from Brazil, or were rather in our Reckoning, I could not tell: but our Reckonings are liable to such Uncertain­ties from Steerage, Log, Currents, Half [Page 99] Minute-Glasses, and sometimes want of Care, as in so long a Run cause often a dif­ference of many Leagues in the whole Ac­count.

Most of my Men that kept Journals im­puted it to the Half-Minute-glasses; and indeed we had not a good Glass in the Ship beside the Half-watch or Two Hour-Glas­ses. As for our Half-Minute-Glasses we tried them all at several times, and we found those that we had us'd from Brazil as much too short, as others we had us'd before were too long: which might well make great Errors in those several Reck­onings. A Ship ought therefore to have its Glasses very exact: and besides, an ex­traordinary Care ought to be used in heav­ing the Log, for fear of giving too much Stray-Line in a moderate Gale; and also to stop quickly in a brisk Gale; for when a Ship runs 8, 9, or 10 Knots, half a Knot or a Knot is soon run out, and not heeded: But to prevent danger, when a Man thinks himself near Land, the best way is to look out betimes, and lie by in the Night: for a Commander may err easily himself; be­side the Errors of those under him, tho' never so carefully eyed.

Another thing that stumbled me here was the Variation, which, at this time, by the last Amplitude I had I found to be but [...] deg. 58 min. W. whereas the Variation [Page 100] at the Cape (from which I found my self not 30 Leagues distant) was then com­puted, and truly, about 11 Deg. or more: And yet a while after this, when I was got 10 Leagues to the Eastward of the Cape, I found the Variation but 10 Deg. 40 Min. W. whereas it should have been rather more than at the Cape. These Things, I con­fess, did puzzle me: neither was I fully satisfied as to the Exactness of the taking the Variation at Sea: For in a great Sea, which we often meet with, the Compass will traverse with the motion of the Ship; besides the Ship may and will deviate some­what in Steering, even by the best Helms­men: And then when you come to take an Azimuth, there is often some difference be­tween him that looks at the Compass, and the Man that takes the Altitude heighth of the Sun; and a small Error in each, if the Error of both should be one way, will make it wide of any great Exactness. But what was most shocking to me, I found that the Variation did not always increase or decrease in proportion to the Degrees of Longitude East or West; as I had a No­tion they might do to a certain Number of Degrees of Variation East or West, at such or such particular Meridians. But finding in this Voyage that the Difference of Variation did not bear a regular pro­portion to the difference of Longitude, I [Page 101] was much pleas'd to see it thus Observ'd in a Scheme shewn me after my Return home, wherein are represented the several Vari­ations in the Atlantick Sea, on both sides the Equator; and there, the Line of no Variation in that Sea is not a Meridian Line, but goes very oblique, as do those also which shew the Increase of Variation on each side of it. In that Draught there is so large an Advance made as well to­wards the Accounting for those seemingly Irregular Increases and Decreases of Vari­ation towards the S. E. Coast of America, as towards the fixing a general Scheme or System of the Variation every where, which would be of such great Use in Na­vigation, that I cannot but hope that the Ingenious Author, Capt. Halley, who to his profound Skill in all Theories of these kinds, hath added and is adding continu­ally Personal Experiments, will e'er long oblige the World with a fuller Discovery of the Course of the Variation, which hath hitherto been a Secret. For my part I pro­fess my self unqualified for offering at any thing of a General Scheme; but since Matter of Fact, and whatever increases the History of the Variation, may be of use towards the setling or confirming the Theory of it, I shall here once for all in­sert a Table of all the Variations I observ'd beyond the Equator in this Voyage, both [Page 102] in going out, and returning back; and what Errors there may be in it, I shall leave to be Corrected by the Observations of Others.

[Page 108] But to return from this Digression: Having fair Weather, and the Winds hang­ing Southerly, I jog'd on to the Eastward, to make the Cape. On the third of June we saw a Sail to Leeward of us, shewing English Colours. I bore away to speak with her, and found her to be the Antelope of London, commanded by Captain Ham­mond, and bound for the Bay of Bengal in the Service of the New-East-India Compa­ny. There were many Passengers aboard, going to settle there under Sir Edward Lit­tleton, who was going Chief thither: I went aboard, and was known by Sir Ed­ward, and Mr. Hedges, and kindly received and treated by them and the Commander; who had been afraid of us before, tho' I had sent one of my Officers aboard. They had been in at the Cape, and came from thence the Day before, having stockt them­selves with Refreshments. They told me that they were by Reckoning, 60 Miles to the West of the Cape. While I was aboard them, a fine small Westerly Wind sprang up; therefore I shortned my stay with them, because I did not design to go in to the Cape. When I took leave I was presented with half a Mutton, 12 Cabbages, 12 Pum­kins, 6 Pound of Butter, 6 Couple of Stockfish, and a quantity of Parsnips; sending them some Oatmeal, which they wanted.

[Page 109] From my first setting out from England, I did not design to touch at the Cape; and that was one Reason why I touch'd at Bra­zil, that there I might refresh my Men, and prepare them for a long Run to New Holland. We had not yet seen the Land; but about 2 in the Afternoon we saw the Cape-Land bearing East, at above 16 Leagues distance: And Captain Hammond being also bound to double the Cape, we jog'd on together this Afternoon and the next Day, and had several fair Sights of it; which may be seen [ Table III. No. 6. 7. 8.]

To proceed, having still a Westerly Wind, I jog'd on in company with the Antelope, till Sunday June the 4th at 4 in the Afternoon, when we parted; they steering away for the East-Indies, and I keeping an E. S. E. Course, the better to make my way for New Holland: For tho' New Holland lies North-Easterly from the Cape, yet all Ships bound towards that Coast, or the Streights of Sundy, ought to keep for a while in the same Parallel, or in a Lat. between 35 and 40. at least a little to the S. of the East, that they may continue in a variable Winds way; and not venture too soon to stand so far to the North, as to be within the verge of the Trade-Wind, which will put them by their Easterly Course. The Wind increased upon us; but [Page 110] we had yet sight of the Antelope, and of the Land too, till Tuesday the 6th of June: And then we saw also by us an inumerable Company of Fowls of divers sorts; so that we lookt about to see if there were not another dead Whale, but saw none.

The Night before, the Sun set in a black Cloud, which appeared just like Land; and the Clouds above it were gilded of a dark red Colour. And on the Tuesday, as the Sun drew near the Horizon, the Clouds were gilded very prettily to the Eye, tho' at the same time my Mind dreaded the Conse­quences of it. When the Sun was now not above 2 deg. high, it entered into a dark smoaky-coloured Cloud that lay parallel with the Horizon, from whence presently seem'd to issue many dusky blackish Beams. The Sky was at this time covered with small hard Clouds (as we call such as lie scattering about, not likely to Rain) very thick one by another; and such of them as lay next to the Bank of Clouds at the Horizon, were of a pure Gold colour to 3 or 4 deg. high above the Bank: From these to about 10 deg. high they were redder, and very bright; above them they were of a darker Colour still, to about 60 or 70 deg. high; where the Clouds began to be of their common Colour. I took the more particu­lar Notice of all this, because I have gene­rally observed such colour'd Clouds to ap­pear [Page 111] before an approaching Storm: And this being Winter here, and the time for bad Weather, I expected and provided for a violent Blast of Wind, by riffing our Top­sails, and giving a strict charge to my Of­ficers to hand them or take them in, if the Wind should grow stronger. The Wind was now at W. N. W. a very brisk Gale. About 12 a Clock at Night we had a pale whitish Glare in the N. W. which was another Sign, and intimated the Storm to be near at hand; and the Wind increasing upon it, we presently handed our Topsails, furled the Mainsail, and went away only with our Foresail. Before 2 in the Morn­ing it came on very fierce, and we kept right before Wind and Sea, the Wind still increasing: But the Ship was very govern­able, and Steer'd incomparably well. At 8 in the Morning we settled our Fore-Yard, lowering it 4 or 5 Foot, and we ran very swiftly; especially when the Squals of Rain or Hail, from a black Cloud, came over head, for then it blew excessive hard. These, tho' they did not last long, yet came very thick and fast one after another. The Sea also ran very high: But we running so violently before Wind and Sea, we Shipt little or no Water; tho' a little washt into our upper Deck-Ports; and with it a Scuttle or Cuttle-Fish was cast upon the Carriage of a Gun.

[Page 112] The Wind blew extraordinary hard all Wednesday, the 7th of June, but abated of its fierceness before Night: Yet it continu­ed a brisk Gale till about the 16th, and still a moderate one till the 19th Day; by which time we had run about 600 Leagues: For the most part of which time the Wind was in some point of the West, viz. from the W. N. W. to the S. by W. It blew hard­est when at W. or between the W. and S. W. but after it veered more Southerly the foul Weather broke up: This I observed at other times also in these Seas, that when the Storms at West veered to the South­ward they grew less; and that when the Wind came to the E. of the S. we had still smaller Gales, Calms, and fair Wea­ther. As for the Westerly Winds on that side the Cape, we like them never the worse for being violent, for they drive us the faster to the Eastward; and are therefore the only Winds coveted by those who sail towards such parts of the East-Indies, as lie South of the Equator; as Timor, Java, and Sumatra; and by the Ships bound for China, or any other that are to pass through the Streights of Sundy. Those Ships having once past the Cape, keep commonly pretty far Southerly, on purpose to meet with these West Winds, which in the Winter Season of these Climates they soon meet with; for then the Winds are generally Westerly at [Page 113] the Cape, and especially to the Southward of it: But in their Summer Months they get to the Southward of 40 deg. usually e'er they meet with the Westerly Winds. I was not at this time in a higher Lat. than 36 deg. 40 min. and oftentimes was more Northerly, altering my Latitude often as Winds and Weather requir'd; for in such long Runs 'tis best to shape ones Course ac­cording to the Winds. And if in Steering to the East, we should be obliged to bear a little to the N. or S. of it, 'tis no great matter; for 'tis but Sailing 2 or 3 Points from the Wind, when 'tis either Norther­ly or Southerly; and this not only easeth the Ship from straining, but shortens the way more than if a Ship was kept close on a Wind, as some Men are fond of doing.

The 19th of June we were in Lat. 34 deg. 17 min. S. and Long. from the Cape 39 deg. 24 min. E. and had small Gales and Calms. The Winds were at N. E. by E. and continued in some part of the E. till the 27th Day. When it having been some time at N. N. E. it came about at N. and then to the W. of the N. and continu­ed in the West-board (between the N. N. W. and S. S. W.) till the 4th of July; in which time we ran 782 Miles; then the Winds came about again to the East, we reckoning our selves to be in a Meridian 1100 L. East of that of the Cape; and having fair Weather sounded, but had no Ground.

[Page 114] We met with little of Remark in this Voyage, besides being accompanied with Fowles all the way, especially Pintado-Birds, and seeing now and then a Whale: But as we drew nigher the Coast of New-Holland, we saw frequently 3 or 4 Whales together. When we were about 90 Leagues from the Land we began to see Sea-weeds, all of one sort; and as we drew nigher the Shore we saw them more fre­quently. At about 30 Leagues distance we began to see some Scutle-bones floating on the Water; and drawing still nigher the Land we saw greater quantities of them.

July the 25th being in Lat. 26 deg. 14 min. S. and Longitude E. from the C. of G. Hope 85 deg. 52 min. we saw a large Gar­fish leap 4 times by us, which seemed to be as big as a Porpose. It was now very fair Weather, and the Sea was full of a sort of very small Grass or Moss, which as it floated in the Water seemed to have been some Spawn of Fish; and there was among it some small Fry. The next Day the Sea was full of small round things like Pearl, some as big as white Peas; they were very Clear and Transparent, and upon crushing any of them a drop of Water would come forth: The Skin that contained the Water was so thin that it was but just deseernable. Some Weeds swam by us, so that we did not doubt but we should quickly see Land. [Page 115] On the 27th also, some Weeds swam by us, and the Birds that had flown along with us all the way almost from Brazil, now left us, except only 2 or 3 Shear-waters. On the 28th we saw many Weeds swim by us, and some Whales, blowing. On the 29th we had dark cloudy Weather, with much Thunder, Lightning, and vio­lent Rains in the Morning: But in the E­vening it grew fair. We saw this Day a Scutle-bone swim by us, and some of our young Men a Seal, as it should seem by their Description of its Head. I saw also some Boneta's, and some Skipjacks, a Fish about 8 Inches long, broad and sizable, not much unlike a Roach; which our Sea­men call so from their leaping about.

The 30th of July, being still nearer the Land, we saw abundance of Scutle-bones and Sea-weed, more Tokens that we were not far from it; and saw also a sort of Fowls the like of which we had not seen in the whole Voyage, all the other Fowls ha­ving now left us. These were as big as Lapwings; of a grey Colour, black about their Eyes, with red sharp Bills, long Wings, their Tails long and forked like Swallows; and they flew flapping their Wings like Lapwings. In the Afternoon we met with a Ripling like a Tide or Cur­rent, or the Water of some Shole or Over­fal; but were past it before we could sound. [Page 116] The Birds last mention'd and this were further Signs of Land. In the Evening we had fair Weather, and a small Gale at West. At 8 a Clock we sounded again; but had no Ground.

We kept on still to the Eastward, with an easy Sail, looking out sharp: for by the many Signs we had, I did expect that we were near the Land. At 12 a Clock in the Night I sounded, and had 45 Fa­thom, course Sand and small white Shells. I presently clapt on a Wind and stood to the South, with the Wind at W. because I thought we were to the South of a Shoal call'd the Abrohles (an Appellative Name for Shoals, as it seems to me) which in a Draught I had of that Coast is lay'd down in 27 deg. 28 min. Lat. stretching about 7 Leagues into the Sea. I was the Day before in 27 deg. 38 min. by Reckoning. And afterwards steering E. by S. purposely to avoid it, I thought I must have been to the South of it: but sounding again, at One a Clock in the Morning, Aug. the first, we had but 25 Fathom, Coral-Rocks; and so found the Shoal was to the South of us. We presently tackt again, and stood to the North, and then soon deepned our Water; for at two in the Morning we had 26 Fathom Coral still: At three we had 28 Coral-ground: At 4 we had 30 Fa­thom, course Sand, with some Coral: At

[Page 117] 5 we had 45 Fathom, course Sand and Shells; being now off the Shole, as ap­pear'd by the Sand and Shells, and by hav­ing left the Coral. By all this I knew we had fall'n in to the North of the Shole, and that it was laid down wrong in my Sea-Chart: for I found it lie in about 27 deg. Lat. and by our Run in the next day, I found that the Outward-edge of it, which I sounded on, lies 16 Leagues off Shore. When it was day we steered in E. N. E. with a fine brisk Gale; but did not see the Land till 9 in the Morning, when we saw it from our Topmast-head, and were distant from it about 10 Leagues; having then 40 Fathom-water, and clean Sand. About 3 Hours after we saw it on our Quarter-Deck, being by Judgment about 6 Leagues off: and we had then 40 Fa­thom, clean Sand. As we ran in, this day and the next, we took several Sights of it, at different Bearings and Distances; from which it appear'd as you see in [ Ta­ble IV. N ^o. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.] And here I would Note once for all, That the Lati­tudes mark'd in the Draughts, or Sights here given, are not the Latitude of the Land, but of the Ship when the Sight was taken. This Morning, August the first, as we were standing in we saw several large Sea-fowls, like our Gannets on the Coast of England, flying three or four to­gether; [Page 118] and a sort of white Sea-Mews, but black about the Eyes, and with forked Tails. We strove to run in near the Shore to seek for a Harbour to refresh us after our tedious Voyage; having made one continued stretch from Brazil hither of a­bout 114 Deg.; designing from hence al­so to begin the Discovery I had a mind to make on N. Holland and N. Guinea. The Land was low, and appear'd even, and as we drew nearer to it, it made (as you see in Table IV. N ^o. 3, 4, 5.) with some red and some white Clifts; these last in Lat. 26. 10 S. where you will find 54 Fathom, within four Miles of the Shore.

About the Lat. of 26 deg. S. we saw an Opening, and ran in, hoping to find a Harbour there: but when we came to its Mouth, which was about two Leagues wide, we saw Rocks and foul Ground within, and therefore stood out again: There we had 20 Fathom-water within two mile of the Shore. The Land every where appear'd pretty low, flat and even; but with steep Cliffs to the Sea; and when we came near it there were no Trees, Shrubs or Grass to be seen. The Sound­ings in the Lat. of 26 deg. S. from about 8 or 9 Leagues off till you come within a League of the Shore, are generally about 40 Fathom; differing but little, seldom above three or four Fathom. But the [Page 119] Lead brings up very different sorts of Sand, some course, some fine; and of se­veral Colours, as Yellow, White, Grey, Brown, Bluish and Reddish.

When I saw there was no Harbour here, nor good Anchoring, I stood off to Sea a­gain, in the Evening of the second of Au­gust, fearing a Storm on a Lee-shore, in a place where there was no shelter, and de­siring at least to have Sea-Room: For the Clouds began to grow thick in the West­ern-board, and the Wind was already there, and began to blow fresh almost upon the Shore; which at this Place lies along N. N. W. and S. S. E. By Nine a Clock at Night we had got a pretty good Offin; but the Wind still increasing, I took in my Main Top-sail, being able to carry no more Sail than two Courses and the Mizen. At two in the Morning, Aug. 3. it blew very hard, and the Sea was much raised; so that I furled all my Sails but my Main-sail. Tho' the Wind blew so hard, we had yet pretty clear Weather till Noon: But then the whole Sky was blackned with thick Clouds, and we had some Rain, which would last a quarter of an hour at a time, and then it would blow very fierce while the Squals of Rain were over our Heads; but as soon as they were gone the Wind was by much abated, the stress of the Storm being over. We sound­ed [Page 120] several times, but had no Ground till 8 a Clock Aug. the 4th. in the Evening; and then had 60 Fathom-water, Coral­ground. At Ten we had 56 Fathom fine Sand. At Twelve we had 55 Fathom, fine Sand, of a pale, bluish Colour. It was now pretty moderate Weather; yet I made no Sail till Morning: but then, the Wind veering about to the S. W. I made Sail and stood to the North: And at 11 a Clock the next day, Aug. 5. we saw Land again, at about 10 Leagues di­stance. This Noon we were in Lat. 25 deg. 30 min. and in the Afternoon our Cook died, an Old Man, who had been sick a great while, being infirm before we came out of England.

The 6th of August in the Morning we saw an Opening in the Land, and we ran in to it and anchored in seven and a half Fathom-water, 2 miles from the Shore, clean Sand. It was somewhat difficult getting in here, by reason of many Shoals we met with: But I sent my Boat sound­ing before me. The Mouth of this Sound, which I call'd Shark's Bay, lies in about 25 deg. S. Lat. and our Reckoning made its Longitude from the C. of Good Hope to be about 87 Degrees; which is less by 195 Leagues than is usually laid down in our common Draughts, if our Reckoning was right, and our Glasses did not deceive [Page 121] us. As soon as I came to anchor in this Bay (of which I have given a Plan, Table IV. N ^o. 6.) I sent my Boat ashore to seek for fresh Water: But in the Evening my Men returned, having found none. The next morning I went ashore my self, carrying Pick-axes and Shovels with me, to dig for Water; and Axes to cut Wood. We tried in several places for Water, but finding none after several Trials, nor in several miles compass, we left any farther search for it, and spending the rest of the day in cutting Wood, we went aboard at Night.

The Land is of an indifferent heighth, so that it may be seen 9 or 10 Leagues off. It appears at a distance very even; but as you come nigher you find there are many gentle Risings, tho' none steep nor high. 'Tis all a steep Shore against the open Sea: but in this Bay or Sound we were now in, the Land is low by the Sea-side, ri­sing gradually in within the Land. The Mould is Sand by the Sea-side, producing a large sort of Sampier, which bears a white Flower. Farther in, the Mould is reddish, a sort of Sand producing some Grass, Plants, and Shrubs. The Grass grows in great Tufts, as big as a Bushel, here and there a Tuft: being intermix'd with much Heath, much of the kind we have growing on our Commons in Eng­land. [Page 122] Of Trees or Shrubs here are divers sorts; but none above ten Foot high: Their Bodies about 3 Foot about, and 5 or 6 Foot high before you come to the Branches, which are bushy and compos'd of small Twigs there spreading abroad, tho' thick set, and full of Leaves; which were mostly long and narrow. The Co­lour of the Leaves was on one side Whi­tish, and on the other Green: and the Bark of the Trees was generally of the same Colour with the Leaves, of a pale Green. Some of these Trees were sweet­scented, and reddish within the Bark, like Sassafras, but redder. Most of the Trees and Shrubs had at this time either Blos­soms or Berries on them. The Blossoms of the different sort of Trees were of several Colours, as Red, White, Yellow, &c. but mostly Blue: and these generally smelt very sweet and fragrant, as did some also of the rest. There were also beside some Plants, Herbs, and tall Flowers, some ve­ry small Flowers, growing on the Ground, that were sweet and beautiful, and for the most part unlike any I had seen else­where.

There were but few Land-Fowls: we saw none but Eagles, of the larger sorts of Birds; but 5 or 6 sorts of small Birds. The biggest sort of these were not bigger than Larks; some no bigger than Wrens, all

[Page 123] singing with great variety of fine shrill Notes; and we saw some of their Nests with young Ones in them. The Water-Fowls are Ducks, (which had young Ones now, this being the beginning of the Spring in these Parts;) Curlews, Galdens, Crab­catchers, Cormorants, Gulls, Pelicans; and some Water-Fowl, such as I have not seen any where besides. I have given the Pictures of 4 several Birds on this Coast. [See Birds: Fig. 2, 3, 4, 5.]

The Land-Animals that we saw here were only a sort of Raccoons, different from those of the West-Indies, chiefly as to their Legs; for these have very short fore Legs; but go Jumping upon them as the others do, and like them are very good Meat:) and a sort of Guano's, of the same shape and size with other Guano's, describ'd [Vol. I. p. 57.] but differing from them in three remarkable Particu­lars: For these had a larger and uglier Head; and had no Tail: And at the Rump, instead of the Tail there, they had a stump of a Tail, which appear'd like another Head; but not really such, being without Mouth or Eyes: Yet this Crea­ture seem'd by this means to have a Head at each end; and, which may be reckon'd a fourth difference, the Legs also seem'd all four of them to be Fore-legs, being all a­like in shape and length, and seeming by [Page 124] the Joints and Bending to be made as if they were to go indifferently either Head or Tail foremost. They were speckled black and yellow like Toads, and had Scales or Knobs on their Backs like those of Crocodiles, plated on to the Skin, or stuck into it, as part of the Skin. They are ve­ry slow. in motion; and when a Man comes nigh them they will stand still and hiss, not endeavouring to get away. Their Livers are also spotted black and yellow: and the Body when opened hath a very unsavory Smell. I did never see such ugly Creatures any where but here. The Guano's I have observ'd to be very good Meat: and I have often eaten of them with pleasure: But tho' I have eaten of Snakes, Crocodiles and Allegators, and many Creatures that look frightfully e­nough, and there are but few I should have been afraid to eat of if prest by Hun­ger, yet I think my Stomach would scarce have serv'd to venture upon these N. Hol­land Guano's, both the Looks and the Smell of them being so offensive.

The Sea-fish that we saw here (for here was no River, Land or Pond of Fresh Wa­ter to be seen) are chiefly Sharks. There are abundance of them in this particular Sound, that I therefore gave it the Name of Shark's Bay. Here are also Skates Thornbacks, and other Fish of the Ray [Page 125] kind; (one sort especially like the Sea-Devil) and Garfish, Boneta's, &c. Of Shell-fish we got here Muscles, Periwink­les, Limpits, Oysters, both of the Pearl­kind and also Eating-Oysters, as well the common sort as long Oysters; beside Cockles, &c. The Shore was lined thick with many other sorts of very strange and beautiful Shells, for variety of Colour and Shape, most finely spotted with Red, Black, or Yellow, &c. such as I have not seen any where but at this place. I brought away a great many of them; but lost all, except a very few, and those not of the best.

There are also some green Turtle weigh­ing about 200 lb. Of these we caught 2 which the Water Ebbing had left behind a Ledge of Rock, which they could not creep over. These served all my Company 2 Days; and they were indifferent sweet Meat. Of the Sharks we caught a great many, which our Men eat very savourily. Among them we caught one which was 11 Foot long. The space between its 2 Eyes was 20 Inches, and 18 Inches from one Corner of his Mouth to the other. Its Maw was like a Leather Sack, very thick, and so tough that a sharp Knife could scarce cut it: In which we found the Head and Boans of a Hippopotomus; the hairy Lips of which were still sound and not putrified, [Page 126] and the Jaw was also firm, out of which we pluckt a great many Teeth, 2 of them 8 Inches long, and as big as a Mans Thumb, small at one end, and a little crooked; the rest not above half so long. The Maw was full of Jelly which stank extreamly: However I saved for a while the Teeth and the Sharks Jaw: The Flesh of it was divi­ded among my Men; and they took care that no waste should be made of it.

'Twas the 7th of August when we came into Shark's-Bay; in which we Anchor'd at three several Places, and stay'd at the first of them (on the W. side of the Bay) till the 11th. During which time we search­ed about, as I said, for fresh Water, digging Wells, but to no purpose. How­ever, we cut good store of Fire-wood at this first Anchoring-place; and my Com­pany were all here very well refreshed with Raccoons, Turtle, Shark and other Fish, and some Fowles; so that we were now all much brisker than when we came in hi­ther. Yet still I was for standing farther into the Bay, partly because I had a Mind to increase my stock of fresh Water, which was began to be low; and partly for the sake of Discovering this part of the Coast. I was invited to go further, by seeing from this Anchoring-place all open before me [...] which therefore I designed to search befor [...] I left the Bay. So on the 11th about Noon [...] [Page 127] I steer'd farther in, with an easie Sail, be­cause we had but shallow Water: We kept therefore good looking out for fear of Sholes; sometimes shortning, sometimes deepning the Water. About 2 in the Afternoon we saw the Land a Head that makes the S. of the Bay, and before Night we had again Sholdings from that Shore: And therefore shortned Sail and stood off and on all Night, under 2 Topsails, conti­nually sounding, having never more then 10 Fathom, and seldom less than 7. The Water deepned and sholdned so very gent­ly, that in heaving the Lead 5 or 6 times we should scarce have a Foot difference. When we came into 7 Fathom either way, we presently went about. From this S. part of the Bay, we could not see the Land from whence we came in the Afternoon: And this Land we found to be an Island of 3 or 4 Leagues long, as is seen in the Plain, [Ta­ble IV. No. 6.] but it appearing barren, I did not strive to go nearer it; and the ra­ther because the Winds would not permit us to do it without much Trouble, and at the Openings the Water was generally Shole. I therefore made no farther attempts in this S. W. and S. part of the Bay, but steered away to the Eastward, to see if there was any Land that way, for as yet we had seen none there. On the 12th in the Morning we pass'd by the N. Point of [Page 128] that Land, and were confirm'd in the Per­suasion of its being an Island, by seeing an Opening to the East of it, as we had done on the W. Having fair Weather, a small Gale and smooth Water, we stood further on in the Bay, to see what Land was on the E. of it. Our Soundings at first were 7 Fathom, which held so a great while, but at length it decreas'd to 6. Then we saw the Land right a-head, that in the Plan makes the E. of the Bay. We could not come near it with the Ship, hav­ing but Shole water: and it being dange­rous lying there, and the Land extraordi­narily low, very unlikely to have fresh Water (though it had a few Trees on it, seemingly Mangroves) and much of it pro­bably covered at High-water, I stood out again that Afternoon, deepning the Water, and before Night anchored in 8 Fathom, clean white Sand, about the middle of the Bay. The next day we got up our An­chor; and that Afternoon came to an An­chor once more near two Islands, and a Shole of Corral Rocks that face the Bay. Here I scrubb'd my Ship: and finding it very improbable I should get any thing further here, I made the best of my way out to Sea again, sounding all the way: but finding by the shallowness of the Wa­ter that there was no going out to Sea to the East of the two Islands that face the [Page 129] Bay, nor between them, I return'd to the West Entrance, going out by the same Way I came in at, only on the East instead of the West-side of the small Shole to be seen in the Plan: in which Channel we had 10, 12, and 13 Fathom-water, still deep­ning upon us till we were out at Sea. The day before we came out I sent a Boat a­shore to the most Northerly of the Two Islands, which is the least of them, catch­ing many small Fish in the mean while with Hook and Line. The Boat's Crew returning, told me, That the Ifle produces nothing but a sort of green, short, hard, prickly Grass, affording neither Wood nor fresh Water; and that a Sea broak between the two Islands, a Sign that the Water was shallow. They saw a large Turtle, and many Skates and Thornbacks, but caught none.

It was August the 14th when I sail'd out of this Bay or Sound, the Mouth of which lies, as I said, in 25 deg. 5 min. designing to coast along to the N. E. till I might commodiously put in at some other part of N. Holland. In passing out we saw three Water-Serpents swimming about in the Sea, of a yellow Colour, spotted with dark, brown Spots. They were each a­bout four Foot long, and about the big­ness of a Man's Wrist, and were the first I saw on this Coast, which abounds with [Page 130] several sorts of them. We had the Winds at our first coming out at N. and the Land lying North-Easterly. We plied off and on, getting forward but little till the next day: When the Wind coming at S. S. W. and S. we began to Coast it along the Shore to the Northward, keeping at 6 or 7 Leagues off Shore; and sounding often, we had between 40 and 46 Fathom-water, brown Sand, with some white Shells. This 15th of August we were in Lat. 24 deg. 41 min. On the 16th Day at Noon we were in 23 deg. 22 min. The Wind com­ing at E. by N. we could not keep the Shore aboard, but were forced to go far­ther off, and lost sight of the Land. Then sounding we had no Ground with 80 Fa­thom-line; however the Wind shortly af­ter came about again to the Southward, and then we jogg'd on again to the North­ward, and saw many small Dolphins and Whales, and abundance of Scuttle-shells swimming on the Sea; and some Water­snakes every day. The 17th we saw the Land again, and took a Sight of it. [See Table IV. N ^o. 7.]

The 18th in the Afternoon, being 3 or 4 Leagues off Shore, I saw a Shole point, stretching from the Land into the Sea, a League or more. The Sea broke high on it; by which I saw plainly there was a Shole there. I stood farther off, and coast­ed [Page 131] along Shore, to about 7 or 8 Leagues distance: And at 12 a Clock at Night we sounded, and had but 20 Fathom, hard Sand. By this I found I was upon ano­ther Shole, and so presently steered off W. half an hour, and had then 40 Fathom. At One in the Morning of the 18th day we had 85 Fathom: By Two we could find no Ground; and then I ventur'd to steer along Shore again, due N. which is two Points wide of the Coast (that lies here N. N. E.) for fear of another Shole. I would not be too far off from the Land, being desirous to search into it where-ever I should find an Opening or any Conveni­ence of searching about, for Water, &c. When we were off the Shole-point I men­tion'd where we had but 20 Fathom-wa­ter, we had in the Night abundance of Whales about the Ship, some a head, o­thers a stern, and some on each side blow­ing and making a very dismal Noise; but when we came out again into deeper Wa­ter they left us. Indeed the Noise that they made by blowing and dashing of the Sea with their Tails, making it all of a Breach and Fome, was very dreadful to us, like the breach of the Waves in very Shole-water, or among Rocks. The Shole these Whales were upon had depth of Water sufficient, no less than twenty Fathom, as I said; and it lies in Lat. 22 [Page 132] deg. 22 min. The Shore was generally bold all along: we had met with no Shole at Sea since the Abrohlo-shole, when we first fell on the N. Holland Coast in the Lat. of 28. till yesterday in the Afternoon, and this Night. This Morning also when we expected by the Draught we had with us to have been 11 Leagues off Shore, we were but 4: so that either our Draughts were faulty, which yet hitherto and after­wards we found true enough as to the ly­ing of the Coast, or else here was a Tide unknown to us that deceived us; tho' we had found very little of any Tide on this Coast hitherto. As to our Winds in the Coasting thus far, we had been within the Verge of the General Trade (tho' inter­rupted by the Storm I mention'd) from the Lat. of 28, when we first fell in with the Coast: and by that time we were in the Lat. of 25. we had usually the regular Trade-wind (which is here S. S. E.) when we were at any distance srom Shore: but we had often Sea and Land-Breezes, espe­cially when near Shore, and when in Sharks bay; and had a particular N. West Wind, or Storm, that set us in thither. On this 18th of August we coasted with a brisk Gale of the True Trade-wind at S. S. E. very sair and clear VVeather; but haling off in the Evening to Sea, were next Morning out of sight of Land: and the [Page 133] Land now trending away N. Easterly, and we being to the Norward of it, and the Wind also shrinking from the S. S. E. to the E. S. E. (that is, from the True Trade-Wind to the Sea-Breeze, as the Land now lay) we could not get in with the Land again yet a-while, so as to see it, tho' we trim'd sharp and kept close on a Wind. We were this 19th day in Lat. [...]1 deg. 42 min. The 20th we were in Lat. 19 deg. 37 min. and kept close on a Wind to get sight of the Land again, but could not yet see it. We had very fair Weather; and tho' we were so far from the Land as to be out of sight of it, yet we had the Sea and Land-Breezes. In the Night we had the Land-breeze at S. S. E. a small gentle Gale; which in the Morn­ing about Sun-rising would shift about gradually (and withal increasing in Strength) till about Noon we should have it at E. S. E. which is the true Sea-breeze here. Then it would blow a brisk Gale, so that we could scarce carry our Top sails double rift: and it would continue thus till 3 in the Afternoon, when it would decrease again. The Weather was fair all the while, not a Cloud to be seen; but very hazy, especially nigh the Horizon. We sounded several times this 20th day, and at first had no Ground: but had after­wards from 52 to 45 Fathom, course [Page 134] brown Sand, mixt with small, brown and white Stones, with Dints besides in the Tallow.

The 21st day also we had small Land­breezes in the Night, and Sea-breezes in the day: and as we saw some Sea-snakes every day, so this day we saw a great ma­ny, of two different sorts or shapes. One sort was yellow, and about the bigness of a Man's Wrist, about 4 Foot long, hav­ing a flat Tail about 4 Fingers broad. The other sort was much smaller and shorter, round and spotted black and yel­low. This day we sounded several times, and had 45 Fathom, Sand. We did not make the Land till Noon, and then saw it first from our Topmast-head. It bore S.E. by E. about 9 Leagues distance; and it appeared like a Cape or Head of Land. The Sea-breeze this day was not so strong as the day before, and it veered out more; so that we had a fair Wind to run in with to the Shore, and at Sun-set anchored in 20 Fathom, clean Sand, about 5 Leagues from the bluff Point; which was not a Cape (as it appear'd at a great distance) but the Eastermost end of an Island, about 5 or 6 Leagues in length, and one in breadth. There were 3 or 4 Rocky Islands about a I cague from us between us and the bluff Point; and we saw many other Islands both to the East and VVest of it, as [Page 135] far as we could see either way from our Topmast head: And all within them to the S. there was nothing but Islands of a pretty heighth, that may be seen 8 or 9 Leagues off. By what we saw of them they must have been a Range of Islands of about 20 Leagues in length, stretching from E. N. E. to VV. S. VV. and for ought I know, as far as to those of Sharks-Bay; and to a considerable breadth also, (for we could see 9 or 10 Leagues in a­mong them) towards the Continent or main Land of N. Holland, if there be any such thing hereabouts: and by the great Tides I met with awhile afterwards, more to the N. East, I had a strong suspicion that here might be a kind of Archipelago of Islands, and a Passage possibly to the S. of N. Holland and N. Guinea into the great S. Sea Eastward; which I had Thoughts also of attempting in my Return from N. Guinea (had Circumstances permitted) and told my Officers so: but I would not at­tempt it at this time, because we wanted VVater, and could not depend upon find­ing it there. This Place is in the Lat. of 20 deg. 21 min. but in the Draught that I had of this Coast, which was Tasman's, it was laid down in 19 deg. 50 min. and the Shore is laid down as all along joining in one Body or Continent, with some Openings appearing like Rivers; and not [Page 136] like Islands, as really they are. See several Sights of it, Table IV. N ^o. 8, 9, 10. This Place therefore lies more Northerly by 40 min. than is laid down in Mr. Tasman's Draught: And beside its being made a firm, continued Land, only with some Openings like the Mouths of Rivers, I sound the Soundings also different from what the prickt Line of his Course shews them, and generally shallower than he makes them: which inclines me to think that he came not so near the Shore as his Line shews, and so had deeper Soundings, and could not so well distinguish the Islands. His Meridian or Difference of Longitude from Sharks-Bay agrees well enough with my Account, which is 232 Leagues tho' we differ in Lat. And to confirm my Conje­cture that the Line of his Course is made too near the Shore, at least not far to the East of this place, the VVater is there so shallow that he could not come there so nigh.

But to proceed; in the Night we had a small Land-breeze, and in the Morning I weighed Anchor, designing to run in a­mong the Islands, for they had large Chan­nels between them, of a League wide at least, and some 2 or 3 Leagues wide. I sent in my Boat before to sound, and if they sound Shole-water to return again; but if they sound Water enough, to go a­shore [Page 137] on one of the Islands, and stay till the Ship came in; where they might in the mean time search for Water. So we followed after with the Ship, sounding as we went in, and had 20 Fathom, till with­in 2 Leagues of the Bluff-head, and then we had shole Water, and very uncertain Soundings: Yet we ran in still with an ea­sie Sail, sounding and looking out well, for this was dangerous Work. When we came abreast of the Bluff-head; and about 2 Mile from it, we had but 7 Fathom: Then we Edged away from it, but had no more Water; and running in a little further, we had but 4 Fathoms: So we Anchored immediately; and yet when we had veered out a third of a Cable we had 7 Fathom Water again; so uncertain was the Water. My Boat came immediately aboard, and told me that the Island was ve­ry Rocky and Dry, and they had little hopes of finding Water there. I sent them to sound, and bad them, if they found a Channel of 8 or 10 Fathom Water, to keep on, and we would follow with the Ship. We were now about 4 Leagues within the outer small Rocky Islands, but still could see nothing but Islands within us; some 5 or 6 Leagues long, others not above a Mile round. The large Islands were pretty high; but all appeared Dry, and mostly Rocky and Barren. The Rocks look'd of [Page 138] a rusty yellow Colour, and therefore I dispair'd of getting Water on any of them: but was in some hopes of finding a Channel to run in beyond all these Islands, could I have spent time here, and either get to the Main of New Holland, or find out some o­ther Islands that might afford us Water and other Refreshments: Besides, that among so many Islands, we might have found some sort of Rich Mineral, or Ambergreese, it being a good Latitude for both these. But we had not Sailed above a League far­ther before our Water grew sholer again, and then we Anchored in 6 Fathom hard Sand.

We were now on the inner side of the Island, on whose outside is the Bluff-point. We rode a League from the Island, and I presently went ashore, and carried Shovels to dig for Water, but found none. There grow here 2 or 3 sorts of Shrubs, one just like Rosemary; and therefore I call'd this Rosemary Island. It grew in great plenty here, but had no smell. Some of the o­ther Shrubs had blue and yellow Flowers; and we found 2 sorts of Grain like Beans: The one grew on Bushes; the other on a sort of a creeping Vine that runs along on the Ground, having very thick broad Leaves, and the Blossom like a Bean Blos­som, but much larger, and of a deep red Colour, looking very Beautiful. We saw [Page 139] here some Cormorants, Gulls, Crabcatch­ers, &c. a few small Land Birds, and a sort of white Parrots, which flew a great many together. We found some Shell­fish, viz. Limpits, Perriwinkles, and a­bundance of small Oysters growing on the Rocks, which were very sweet. In the Sea we saw some green Turtle, a pretty many Sharks, and abundance of Water-Snakes of several sorts and sizes. The Stones were all of rusty Colour, and Pon­derous.

We saw a Smoak on an Island 3 or 4 Leagues off; and here also the Bushes had been burned, but we found no other sign of Inhabitants: 'T was probable that on the Island where the Smoke was there were Inhabitants, and fresh Water for them. In the Evening I went aboard, and consult­ed with my Officers whether it was best to send thither, or to search among any o­ther of these Islands with my Boat; or else go from hence, and Coast along Shore with the Ship, till we could find some bet­ter Place than this was to ride in, where we had shole Water, and lay expos'd to Winds and Tides. They all agreed to go from hence; so I gave Orders to weigh in the Morning as soon as it should be light, and to get out with the Land-breeze.

Accordingly, August the 23d. at 5 in the Morning we ran out, having a pretty [Page 140] fresh Land-breeze at S. S. E. By 8 a Clock we were got out: and very seasonably; for before 9 the Sea-breeze came on us very strong, and increasing, we took in our Topsails and stood off under 2 Courses and a Mizan, this being as much Sail as we could carry. The sky was clear, there being not one Cloud to be seen; but the Horizon appeared very hazy, and the Sun at setting the Night before, and this Morning at ri­sing, appeared very Red. The Wind con­tinued very strong till Twelve, then it be­gan to abate: I have seldom met with a stronger Breeze. These strong Sea-breezes lasted thus in their Turns 3 or 4 Days. They sprung up with the Sun rise: By 9 a Clock they were very strong, and so con­tinued till Noon, when they began to a­bate: And by Sun-set there was little Wind, or a Calm till the Land-breezes came; which we should certainly have in the Morning about 1 or 2 a Clock. The Land-breezes were between the S. S. W. and S. S. E. The Sea-breezes between the E. N. E. and N. N. E. In the Night while Calm we fish'd with Hook and Line, and caught good store of Fish, viz. Snappers, Breams, Old Wives, and Dog-fish. When these last came we seldom caught any others; for if they did not drive away the other Fish, yet they would be sure to keep them from taking our Hooks, for they would

[Page 141] first have them themselves, biting very greedily. We caught also a Monk-fish, of which I brought home the Picture. See Fish, Fig. I.

On the 25th of August, we still Coasted along Shore, that we might the better see any Opening; kept sounding, and had a­bout 20 Fathom clean Sand. The 26th Day, being about 4 Leagues off Shore the Water began gradually to sholden from 20 to 14 Fathom. I was Edging in a little towards the Land, thinking to have Anchored: But presently after the Water decreased almost at once, till we had but 5 Fathom. I durst therefore adventure no farther, but steered out the same way that we came in; and in a short time had 10 Fathom (being then about 4 Leagues and a half from the Shore) and even Sound­ings. I steered away E. N. E. Coasting along as the Land lies. This Day the Sea­breezes began to be very moderate again, and we made the best of our way along Shore, only in the Night Edging off a lit­tle for fear of Sholes. Ever since we left Sharks-Bay we had had fair clear Weather, and so for a great while still.

The 27th Day, we had 20 Fathom Wa­ter all Night, yet we could not see Land till 1 in the Afternoon from our Topmast-head. By 3 we could just discern Land from our Quarter-deck: We had then 16 [Page 142] Fathom. The Wind was at N. and we steered E. by N. which is but one point in on the Land: Yet we decreased our Water very fast; for at 4 we had but 9 Fathom; the next Cast but 7, which frighted us; and we then tackt instantly and stood off: But in a short time the Wind coming at N. W. and W. N. W. we tackt again, and steered N. N. E. and then deepned our Water a­gain, and had all Night from 15 to 20 Fa­thom.

The 28th Day we had between 20 and 40 Fathom. We saw no Land this Day, but saw a great many Snakes; and some Whales. We saw also some Boobies, and Noddy-birds; and in the Night caught one of these last. It was of another Shape and Colour than any I had seen before. It had a small long Bill, as all of them have, flat Feet like Ducks Feet; its Tail forked like a Swallow, but longer and broader, and the Fork deeper than that of the Swal­low, with very long Wings: The Top or Crown of the Head of this Noddy was Coal-black, having also small black Streaks round about and close to the Eyes; and round these Streaks on each side, a pretty broad white Circle. The Breast, Belly, and under part of the Wings of this Nod­dy were white: And the Back and upper part of its Wings of a saint black or smoak Colour. See a Picture of this, and of the [Page 143] Common one, Birds, Fig. 5, 6. Noddies are seen in most Places between the Tropicks, as well in the East-Indies, and on the Coast of Brazil, as in the West-Indies. They rest a Shore a Nights, and therefore we never see them far at Sea, not above 20 or 30 Leagues, unless driven off in a Storm. When they come about a Ship they com­monly perch in the Night, and will sit still till they are taken by the Seamen. They Build on Cliffs against the Sea, or Rocks, as I have said Vol. I. p. 53.

The 30th Day being in Lat. 18 deg. 21 min. we made the Land again, and saw many great Smoaks near the Shore; and having fair Weather and moderate Breezes, I steered in towards it. At 4 in the After­noon I Anchored in 8 Fathom Water, clear Sand, about 3 Leagues and a half from the Shore. I presently sent my Boat to Sound nearer in, and they found 10 Fa­thom about a Mile farther in: and from thence still farther in the Water decreased gradually to 9, 8, 7. and at 2 Mile distance to 6 Fathom. This Evening we saw an Eclipse of the Moon, but it was abating before the Moon appear'd to us; for the Horizon was very hazy, so that we could not see the Moon till she had been half an hour above the Horizon: and at two hours, 22 min. after Sun-set, by the reck­oning of our Glasses, the Eclipse was quite [Page 144] gone, which was not of many Digits. The Moon's Center was then 33 deg. 40 min. high.

The 31st of August betimes in the Morn­ing I went ashore with 10 or 11 Men to search for Water. We went armed with Muskets and Cutlasses for our Defence, ex­pecting to see People there; and carried also Shovels and Pickaxes to dig Wells. When we came near the Shore we saw 3 tall black naked Men on the sandy Bay a­head of us: But as we row'd in, they went away. When we were landed I sent the Boat with two Men in her to ly a little from the Shore at an Anchor, to prevent being seiz'd; while the rest of us went af­ter the 3 black Men, who were now got on the top of a small Hill about a quarter of a Mile from us, with 8 or 9 Men more in their Company. They seeing us com­ing, ran away. When we came on the top of the Hill where they first stood, we saw a plain Savannah, about half a mile from us, farther in from the Sea. There were several Things like Hay-cocks, standing in the Savannah; which at a di­stance we thought were Houses, looking just like the Hottentot's Houses at the Cap [...] of G. Hope: but we found them to be s [...] many Rocks. We searched about thes [...] for Water, but could find none, nor an [...] Houses; nor People, for they were a [...] [Page 145] Then we return'd again to the Place where we landed, and there we dug for Water.

While we were at work there came 9 or 10 of the Natives to a small Hill a little way from us, and stood there menacing and threatning of us, and making a great Noise. At last one of them came towards us, and the rest followed at a distance. I went out to meet him, and came within 50 yards of him, making to him all the Signs of Peace and Friendship I could; but then he ran away, neither would they any of them stay for us to come nigh them; for we tried two or three times. At last I took two Men with me, and went in the Afternoon along by the Sea­side, purposely to catch one of them, if I could, of whom I might learn where they got their fresh Water. There were 10 or 12 of the Natives a little way off, who seeing us three going away from the rest of our Men, followed us at a distance. I thought they would follow us: but there being for a while a Sand-bank between us and them, that they could not then see us, we made a halt, and hid our selves in a bending of the Sand-bank. They knew we must be thereabouts, and being 3 or 4 times our Number, thought to seize us. So they dispers'd themselves, some going to the Sea-shore, and others beating about [Page 146] the Sand-hills. We knew by what Ren­counter we had had with them in the Morning that we could easily out-run them: so a nimble young Man that was with me, seeing some of them near, ran towards them; and they for some time, ran away besore him. But he soon over­taking them, they fac'd about and fought him. He had a Cutlass, and they had Wooden Lances: with which, being ma­ny of them, they were too hard for him. When he first ran towards them I chas'd two more that were by the Shore: but fearing how it might be with my young Man, I turn'd back quickly, and went up to the top of a Sand-hill, whence I saw him near me, closely engag'd with them. Upon their seeing me, one of them threw a Lance at me, that narrowly misst me. I discharg'd my Gun to scare them, but avoided shooting any of them: till finding the young Man in great danger from them, and my self in some; and that tho' the Gun had a little frighted them at first, yet they had soon learnt to despise it, tossing up their Hands, and crying Pooh, Pooh, Pooh; and coming on afresh with a great Noise, I thought it high time to charge a­gain, and shoot one of them, which I did. The rest, seeing him fall, made a stand a­gain; and my young Man took the op­portunity to disengage himself, and come [Page 147] off to me: my other Man also was with me, who had done nothing all this while, having come out unarm'd; and I return'd back with my Men, designing to attempt the Natives no farther, being very sorry for what had happen'd already. They took up their wounded Companion: and my young Man, who had been struck through the Cheek by one of their Lances, was afraid it had been poison'd: but I did not think that likely. His Wound was very painful to him, being made with a blunt Weapon: but he soon recover'd of it.

Among the N. Hollanders, whom we were thus engag'd with, there was one who by his Appearance and Carriage, as well in the Morning as this Afternoon, seem'd to be the Chief of them, and a kind of Prince or Captain among them. He was a young brisk Man, not very tall, nor so pe [...]sonable as some of the rest, tho' more [...] and couragious: He was painted (which none of the rest were at all) with a Circle of white Paste or Pigment (a sort [...]ime, as we thought) about his Eyes, and a white streak down his Nose from his Forehead to the tip of it. And his Breast and some part of his Arms were also made white with the same Paint: not for Beauty or Ornament, one would think, but as some wild Indian Warriors are said to do, he [Page 148] seem'd thereby to design the looking more terrible; this his Painting adding very much to his natural Deformity; for they all of them of the most unpleasant Looks and the worst Features of any People that ever I saw, tho' I have seen great variety of Savages. These N. Hollanders were probably the same sort of People as those I met with on this Coast in my Voyage round the World; [See Vol. I. p. 464, &c.] for the Place I then touch'd at was not a­bove 40 or 50 Leagues to the N. E. of this: And these were much the same blinking Creatures (here being also abundance of the same kind of Flesh-flies teizing them) and with the same black Skins, and Hair frizled, tall and thin, &c. as those were: But we had not the opportunity to see whether these, as the former, wanted two of their fore-Teeth.

We saw a great many places where they had made Fires; and where there were commonly 3 or 4 Boughs stuck up to Windward of them; for the Wind (which is the Sea-breeze) in the day-time blows always one way with them; and the Land-breeze is but small. By their Fire-places we should always find great heaps of Fish­shells, of seueral sorts; and 'tis probable that these poor Creatures here lived chiefly on the Shell-fish, as those I before describ'd did on small Fish, which they caught in [Page 149] Wires or Holes in the Sand at Low-water. These gather'd their Shell-fish on the Rocks at Low-water; but had no Wires (that we saw) whereby to get any other sorts of Fish: As among the former I saw not any heaps of Shells as here, though I know they also gather'd some Shell-fish. The Lances also of those were such as these had; however they being upon an Island, with their Women and Children, and all in our Power, they did not there use them against us, as here on the Continent, where we saw none but some of the Men under Head, who come out purposely to observe us. We saw no Houses at either Place; and I believe they have none, since the for­mer People on the Island had none, tho' they had all their Families with them.

Upon returning to my Men I saw that tho' they had dug 8 or 9 Foot deep, yet found no Water. So I returned aboard that Evening, and the next day, being September 1st, I sent my Boatswain ashore to dig deeper, and sent the Sain with him to catch Fish. While I staid aboard I ob­served the flowing of the Tide, which runs very swift here, so that our Nun-buoy would not bear above the Water to be seen. It flows here (as on that part of N. Holland I describ'd formerly, about 5 Fathom: and here the Flood runs S. E. by S. till the last Quarter; then it sets [Page 150] right in towards the Shore (which lies here S. S. W. and N. N. E.) and the Ebb runs N. W. by N. When the Tides slackned we Fish'd with Hook and Line, as we had already done in several Places on this Coast; on which in this Voyage hi­therto, we had found but little Tides: but by the Heighth, and Strength, and Course of them hereabouts, it should seem that if there be such a Passage or Streight going through Eastward to the Great South Sea, as I said one might suspect, one would ex­pect to find the Mouth of it somewhere between this Place and Rosemary Island, which was the part of N. Holland I come last from.

Next Morning my Men came aboard and brought a Rundlet of brackish Water which they got out of another Well that they dug in a Place a mile off, and about half as far from the Shore; but this Water was not fit to drink. However we all concluded that it would serve to boil our Oatmeal, for Burgoo, whereby we might save the Remains of our other Water for drinking, till we should get more; and ac­cordingly the next day we brought aboard 4 Hogsheads of it: but while we were at work about the Well we were sadly pest­er'd with the Flies, which were more troublesome to us than the Sun, tho' it shone clear and strong upon us all the while [Page 151] very hot. All this while we saw no more of the Natives, but saw some of the Smoaks of some of their Fires at 2 or 3 miles distance.

The Land hereabouts was much like that part of New Holland that I formerly described [Vol. I. p. 463.] 'tis low, but seemingly barricado'd with a long Chain of Sand-hills to the Sea, that let's nothing be seen of what is farther within Land. A [...] high Water the Tides rising so high as they do, the Coast shews very low: but when 'tis low Water it seems to be of an indifferent heighth. At low Water-Mark the Shore is all Rocky, so that then there is no Landing with a Boat; but at high Water a Boat may come in over those Rocks to the Sandy Bay, which runs all along on this Coast. The Land by the Sea for about 5 or 600 yards is a dry San­dy Soil, bearing only Shrubs and Bushes of divers sorts. Some of these had them at this time of the year, yellow Flowers or Blossoms, some blue, and some white; most of them of a very fragrant Smell. Some had Fruit like Peasecods; in each of which there were just ten small Peas: I opened many of them, and found no more nor less. There are also here some of that sort of Bean which I saw at Rosemary-Island: and another sort of small, red, hard Pulse, growing in Cods also, with [Page 152] little black Eyes like Beans. I know not their Names, but have seen them used of­ten in the East-Indies for weighing Gold; and they make the same use of them at Guinea, as I have heard, where the Wo­men also make Bracelets with them to wear about their Arms. These grow on Bushes: but here are also a Fruit like Beans growing on a creeping sort of Shrub­like Vine. There was great plenty of all these sorts of Cod-fruit growing on the Sand-hills by the Sea-side, some of them green, some ripe, and some fallen on the Ground: but I could not perceive that any of them had been gathered by the Na­tives; and might not probably be whole­some Food.

The Land farther in, that is lower than what borders on the Sea, was, so much as we saw of it, very plain and even; part­ly Savannahs, and partly Woodland. The Savannahs bear a sort of thin course Grass. The Mould is also a courser Sand than that by the Sea-side, and in some places 'tis Clay. Here are a great many Rocks in the large Savannah we were in, which are 5 or 6 Foot high, and round at top like a Hay-cock, very remarkable; some red, and some white. The Woodland lies farther in still; where there were divers sorts of small Trees, scarce any thre [...] Foot in circumserence; their Bodies 12 o [...] [Page 153] 14 Foot high, with a Head of small Knibs or Boughs. By the sides of the Creeks, es­pecially nigh the Sea, there grow a few small black Mangrove-Trees.

There are but few Land-Animals. I saw some Lizards; and my Men saw two or three Beasts like hungry Wolves, lean like so many Skeletons, being nothing but Skin and Bones: 'Tis probable that it was the Foot of one of those Beasts that I mention'd as seen by us in N. Holland, [Vol. I. p. 463.] We saw a Rackoon or two, and one small speckled Snake.

The Land-fowls that we saw here were Crows (just such as ours in England) small Hawks, and Kites; a few of each sort: but here are plenty of small Turtle-Doves, that are plump, fat and very good Meat. Here are 2 or 3 sorts of smaller Birds, some as big as Larks, some less; but not many of either sort. The Sea-Fowl are Pelicans, Boobies, Noddies, Curlews, Sea-pies, &c. and but few of these neither.

The Sea is plentifully stock'd with the largest Whales that I ever saw: but not to compare with the vast ones of the Nor­thern Seas. We saw also a great many Green Turtle, but caught none; here be­ing no Place to set a Turtle-Net in; here being no Channel for them, and the Tides running so strong. We saw some Sharks, [Page 154] and Paracoots; and with Hooks and Lines we caught some Rock-fish and Old Wives. Of Shell-fish, here were [...]sters both of the common kind for Eati [...], and of the Pearl-kind: and also W [...] [...]onchs, Muscles, Limpits, Perriwinkles, &c. and I gather'd a few strange Shells; chiefly a sort not large, and thick-set all about with Rays or Spikes growing in Rows.

And thus having ranged about, a consi­derable time, upon this Coast, without finding any good fresh Water, or any con­venient Place to clean the Ship, as I had hop'd for: And it being moreover the heighth of the dry Season, and my Men growing Scorbutick for want of Refresh­ments, so that I had little Incouragement to search further; I resolved to leave this Coast, and accordingly in the beginning of September set Sail towards Timor.