A.

BEcause I design to go on Alphabetically in this Book, and the Cloth that deserves the preheminency in this, both for general and common use and strength, there is no [...] that is at present in use, that exceeds Alco­ [...]-holland, it being made of the best Flax in the [...], and the Thrid being Spun by the most care­ [...]d curious hands; and it is Wove by the best of [...]rs; and therefore if you are resolved not to [...] good Holland for Shirts and Shifts, you must [...]is sort of Holland; now to let you know how [...]or chuse the right, you must ask for Alcomore­ [...]d that is made by one Stanlack in Holland, who [...]akes the true Cloth, the pieces contain about [...]ty nine, or thirty four Ells at the most; it hath [...] in the Selvidges, not commonly sewed on, [...]yed into holes loose in the Cloth: The present [...] Prizes are from two Shillings and four Pence, [...]ree Shillings, which is generally the highest [...] of the sort; it is about one yard and half a [...]ter broad. There is also another sort of Alco­ [...]-holland, of the same man's make, which is [Page 2]above three quarters of a yard wide, and hath [...] sewed on to both Selvidges, the right of both [...] marked with this

mark on the end at the [...] of the breadth. So much for Alcomore.

B.

I shall begin with Bore-laps, because [...] Shifts or Shirts is counted and known to b [...] [...] strong Cloth, though not so certainly stron [...] former, yet if they are thick and even thre [...] wear well, but if thin and uneven, they wear [...] there is three sorts, one Ell wide, the oth [...] wide, and another three quarters wide, th [...] made up much like an Alcomore-holland, [...] crested or double in the middle, and have [...] sewed on: The ill-conveniency that attends [...] of Cloth is, that it seldom wears white, th [...] third sort of Holland, which not only wears [...] as Alcomore-holland, but washeth whiter [...] doth, but that being Ell-wide is only used for [...] it is called Bridges-holland.

The next being Musling called Bettilies, [...] of general use for Cravats, or Heads for Wo [...] use for several things, it being a more ag [...] [...] wear than any other slight Cloths, and is the [...] ­est of all Muslings that comes into England o [...] ­dinary sort, for there is none of them ever ye [...] extreme fine: There is two sorts of those B [...] the short sort as it is generally called, contain [...] ­ty yards, the long sort contains about twen [...] yards; they are near ell-wide, and are the [...] of all Muslings for washing, there is beside [...] Bettilies, Colconda, and Oringal Bettilie [...] your Cumum Bettilies, and several others; [...] shall only treat of these, and of these I shal [...] [Page 3] [...] instructions in their order as they are set [...] because these are the present useful ones for [...]wice, the Bettelies Colconda are generally ve­ [...]e but thin, they are useful only for Womens [...]e, by reason they wear very slight and ill; [...]e about yard wide or a little more, they con­ [...]ut sixteen yards in a piece: and are no ways [...] Mens use, by reason they are apt to be fray'd, [...] they be starched by those that make it their [...]on only to starch, they are usually fray'd in [...]iece as they come over, therefore you must [...] your inspection great care, lost the piece be [...]ay'd when you buy them, for if they be, you [...]ver bring it to rights in the washing; but [...]arched, if preserved from fraying, they look [...]licate and clear. The second is the Oringal [...]s, this is of a different nature, they being [...]elve yards long, and are the properest sort [...]cks of Mons Cravats, and for Cravats for or­ [...] Tradesmen they are extream good, by rea­ [...]ey are not only strong but thick; they are [...] yard ⅛ wide, and are usually the cheapest of [...] those Bettilies I have named, and are fit for [...]ses that Muslings are used for, the third and [...] Bettilies that I shall speak of in this Book, is [...]etilies Cumum, which is above fourteen yards [...]ece, and yard half quarter wide, it is usually [...]e the first Bettily, and very thin, but yet [...] very well, very little worse than the first Bet­ [...] I have mentioned, it being very clear and [...]; it is very useful for many things, especially [...] use of Women. The next Cloth that comes [...] the Letter B, is a Cloth called Barras, they [...] generally twenty eight Ells, it is about Ell [...] it is a very useful Cloth for packing of Goods [...]e Country, and when well whited is good for [Page 4]ordinary Sheets for Poor People and Servan [...] of good breadth, and although very thin, [...] strong, but especially if it be thick; there is [...] sort of Stuff called Boulter, it is not half yard made of a sort of Woollen, which is very thi [...] for straining and such like uses; it being of [...] importance, I shall not treat farther on it, [...] you know that they are usually, and ough [...] twenty four yards long, and is bought for fou [...] or six Shillings when dear, by the Piece, an [...] at Retail for 6 d per yard. As for Callicoes, [...] son they are of general use with us, I shall [...] some of them; the First is Bafts, of which th [...] two sorts, broad and narrow, they both hold teen yards in length, the one being above ya [...] other three quarters wide, they are the stron [...] any ordinary Callicoe, and wear very well, [...] much worn in Shirts and Shifts, the greatest [...]veniency that attends them, they are incli [...] wash yellow without very good washing; [...] another sort is called Birompots, which is [...] the same nature and length, which is used [...] same use, and for Linings of Britches, [...] strong. I could name many more, but [...] name all sorts, it would swell the Book bey [...] designed limits, therefore shall content my se [...] what only is useful; there is one sort of Cal [...] led Birom Banies, which is much used for Cu [...] This Birom Banies is a Callico striped with a [...] and white Cotton, wove one by the other, [...] two or three stripes of brown, and one broad this Callico is above yard wide, it holds te [...] each Piece, it is naturally a rotten sort of we [...] for that reason is fit only to hang up for C [...] either for Beds or Windows; it usually was [...] seven, eight, or nine Shillings a Piece, but [...] [Page 5] [...] Indian Goods grown dearer, it oftentimes is [...] cots and slits, therefore you must take great [...]en you buy any of it.

C.

[...]ll begin with Cambricks, it being a Cloth ve­ [...]l in our Nation, for these following uses, [...]dkerchiefs, for Head Linnen, for Bishops [...]; there is a great deal of difficulty to know [...] Cambrick from Kentings, by reason there [...]ings are of the same breadth, and are of the [...]hiteness as the Cambricks are; the Kentings [...] never so white at first, will in time wash yel­ [...]st for Cambricks, they will wash white to the [...] its wear; the Cambricks are sold either [...] fifteen, or thirty in a Parcel, the Kentings [...]d by Rounds, as four or five in a Round, as [...] sold by Retail, the Kentings are always sold [...] than Cambricks of the same fineness. Cro­ [...] sort of very course Linne, it is of the use [...]s is of, it is the general sort of brown Lin­ [...]hich is used for Packing for Exportation, [...]land Goods, it being whited, it wears very [...]feriour to a right Canvas, farther, it being [...], it is useful for abundance of other uses, as [...]chen Cloths. Canvas, there are several [...] but coming all from France, at this time they [...]ohibited from coming into this Nation, and [...] reason I shall in this Book pass by the directi­ [...] [...]hich otherwise should have been given in this, [...] have a sort of Cloth made here in England [...] Canvas, which name ought properly to be gi­ [...] none but French: but this sort of English [...] which I am going to treat of, is a sort that [...]e here, and dyed in thred yellow, if you can [Page 6]get the colour that fits you, and fine enough [...] purpose, it is better for Stays than Frenc [...] will not retch, nor let Stays out of shape. [...] of this Letter is Indian things, and the fir [...] name is Cossees Musling, it being a sort of [...] which is of several bredths, as some almost [...] half wide, others of above yard wide, oth [...] little more than three quarters wide, the [...] bredths being usually very fine and thick, [...] ­ful for a great many uses, which I shall omit [...] the Buyer putting it to such uses as they thi [...] proper, excepting Cravats, for which it is to [...] and will wear yellow, and look ill about th [...] but withal it wears very strong; the narrow [...] Cossees is thin and very course, only pre [...] course Necks of Cravats, or to lye betwixt [...] Checker'd Linnen is a thing of great use in [...] ­tion, for Bed-quilts, and for Sea shirts, it be [...] wide, it is sold for thirty Shillings, or thir [...] Shillings a Piece, there is about thirty six ya [...] Piece, it being thin, yet wears well, it is usu [...] for 12 d. per yard. Coureyes is a sort of fi [...] Callico about yard wide, it is a strong Call [...] double threaded one way, it is but seven yar [...] half long in the Piece, is something yellow Izarees, and cannot be known from right [...] only the length of the Izarees is eight yar [...] the Izarees is double threaded both ways, [...] two sorts of Indian Silk called Culgees, th [...] Satten, the other is Taffety, they are stained [...] sorts of Colours; they wear as well as any S [...] comes from the Indies, they are much used for kerchiefs, and for Lining of Beds, and for [...] for both Men and Women: they are two b [...] three quarters wide, and yard half quarter [...] they are as at this time all Goods is, not on [...] [Page 7] [...]certain Prizes. Chints being of so general [...] this City, that I cannot [...]omit speaking of [...] there being several sorts, but I shall speak of [...] few; the first is a sort of very fine Chints, [...] are Painted with very fine Colours all of In­ [...]gures, either of Birds, Beasts or Imagery, [...] washed never so often, still retain their co­ [...] they are worn to pieces. There are your [...] Serunge which are something courser, yet [...] very pretty Flowers, they are about three [...] of a yard wide, about twelve yards in a [...] The Colours of those continue as well as [...]er, they are usually sold for Gowns, Petty­ [...] and to make Quilts for Beds, which Quilts [...]ted the finest sort. There is a third sort [...] all the sorts at present I shall name, this sort [...] former is of great use for making ordinary [...] which [...] the greatest use they are sold for, [...]ing about seven yards long, and were for­ [...]old for three Shillings and six Pence, but [...] Five, and Five and Six Pence. Another [...]dian Stuff, is Chercanneys, it is cheickered [...]ety of colours, as Red, Yellow, Blew and [...] it is a sort of Stuff wears very well in any [...] shall think fit to use it for, as Lining of [...]indow Curtains or Morning Gowns, or Un­ [...]y Coats, it is about ten yards in a Piece, [...]e yard wide: It has been sold some time [...] thirteen and fourteen Shillings a Piece, but [...] about twenty or three and twenty Shillings [...]: some of this kind holds about sixteen yards [...], and are the same both as to the breadth [...] as the former.

D.

I shall begin with Dowlas, for the genera [...] is of for ordinary Shifts and Shirts for Trades [...] and should have begun with Dowlas from Fra [...] reason it is usually the strongest sort, but tha [...] prohibited and forbidden, a Canvas is, it is at [...] needless to fill up the Book with unprofitab [...] course, therefore shall proceed with Dowla [...] Hamborough. This sort of Hamborough Dowla [...] several breadths, as three quarters, three q [...] and one, sixteenth, three quarters and half [...] made much like the French, and some in pa [...] is so like, that were it not for the lengths, [...] Drapers could not know it from the right Fren [...] the difference is thus, the French holds o [...] dred and four Ells in each piece, and fifty [...] half piece: the Hamborough holds fifty four [...] whole piece, and twenty seven ells in a hal [...] this last wears well, but with these faults [...] they never fail of, it wears with prickles or [...] and never wears perfectly white as the form [...] there is this difference in the folding up of th [...] from the Hamborough, the French Dowlas h [...] Selvidges turned in, and after that folded in [...] folds flat, but the Hamborough is rowled up ve [...] and either tacked with Thred, or tyed ab [...] Tape. Dimetty being of several sorts, and [...] use in our Nation, and being of our Englis [...] [...] facture, I shall therefore discourse on every particular, and shall begin with the strongel [...] is called Pillow Fustian, it is of great us [...] Feathers in for Pillows, and is exceeding [...] Wast-Coats, and for Lining of Breeches, [...] will not use them for either, because they th [...] [Page 9] [...]hick, it being double wove; it is about twenty [...] long, and almost half ell wide, the courser [...] are, they [...]e the narrower and the shorter: The [...] sort of Dimetty, is the common sort of plain, [...] is usually the same length of the former, but [...] are single Wove, and are but half as thick [...] former, the finest sort is commonly the [...]est and longest; there is two sorts of those, [...] has a Nap on, and the other sort which is [...] the finest without a Nap, and is used only for [...]ork Beds on, they are the former length and [...]strong, some of the Pillow Fustains are Brown, [...] are always dyed sad colour for mens Frocks, [...] there are some of the single dyed, these are [...] to foot flockings with, and to line Breeches; [...] is another sort of flowered white, which is used [...] for Wast-Coa [...]s for Men, and P [...]tticoats for Wo­ [...] they are made broader than the plain, and if [...] are not cut in the working, will wear very well, [...] sort is twenty yard long, and are of several Fi­ [...], if you would discern the Cuts that is in them, [...] [...]oust look on the wrong side, which you will [...]sewed up again, if there be not, many Cuts it is [...]able, for they cannot cut the Cotten which is on [...]ght side, without cutting some holes through, [...]nest of those flowered are the strongest. There [...]ewise one sort more of flower'd Dimerty that is [...] but thinner and is dearer. I shall now begin [...] the strip'd, which hath been, and now is in use [...] [...]ast-Coats, and Petty-Coats, for Men and Wo­ [...] There is of several Stripes, which are gene­ [...] called by these names, the Common-stripe, [...]ackthread-stripe, and the Vienna-stripe; the [...]mon-stripe, the finer it is, the more Bars it [...] the course sort hath not above thirteen or four­ [...] Barrs, the finest hath about thirty bars, which [Page 10]sort is very fine, and wears much better, both [...] lour and wear than the course; the Pack [...] stripe is the sort which is most in fashion, an [...] ways the dearest, and not undeservedly, for [...] really the strongest of all sorts, both of Flower [...] Striped, but is the narrowest of either sort [...] Vienna-stripe is a sort that hath some dista [...] twixt the Stripes, but not so much as the Co [...] stripe hath, but is always made much thinne [...] any of the former, and I do believe wears [...] worse than any of the former, even worse th [...] flowered which I formerly mentioned. There [...] sort more which is called strip'd Dimetty, it [...] Cotten flowered with several sort of coloured [...] stripes, but is not properly a Dimetty. The [...] that comes under the Letter D. is Diaper, of [...] there is several sorts, and at present I shall on [...] course of those sorts which are most useful, th [...] is the Diaper which comes from Holland, of [...] there are two sorts of work, called Rose and [...] the Rose is a small little round work, the Pa [...] little square figure, but both are of equal br [...] and very good colours; they are of several fi [...] which is known usually by the numbers, whic [...] the Hundred, for example, the lowest numb [...] comes is called sixteen hundred, the highe [...] comes is called forty hundred: The way of [...] it is, if you agree for the Napkenning, the [...] is three times the bredth, and three times the [...] it is a sort of Diaper, that not only wears we [...] wears extream white. There is another [...] Diaper called Sleasy-Diaper, which comes from [...]borough, of which there is several sorts, which [...] describe to you in order: And first shall begi [...] Diaper Table cloths, which are Wove into [...] and length for Spanish Tables, but of those I ca [...] [Page 11] [...]mmendation, because they wear very ill, but [...]ing their bredth being one yard, three quar­ [...]ing, and the same bredth, are sold the cheapest [...] Tabling, they being sold from the Drapers for [...] Shillings and four Pence, or three Shillings [...] Pence each Table-cloth; as for the sorts of [...], there is a sort that may be bought for se­ [...]llings a Piece, it being twelve yards in length, [...]ay be hold half a yard short; there is a great [...] of this sort sold for Clouts, by reason they are [...]uery thin and soft, the next is a sort of the [...] nature, but they are finer, broader and longer, [...] only for Napkins, for a Piece makes a dozen [...]pkins, and wear much stronger than the other [...]ly discoursed of. The next is a sort of Sleasie­ [...], which is the finest sort of all that comes [...] Hamborough, that is as fine as fine Holland­ [...], they are in suits, as I should have told you, [...] former are, for two pieces of Napkens is as [...] a Piece of Tabling, the Piece of Tabling [...]eight yards, and something more, it holding [...] a quarter over, sometimes half a yard: But [...]est of all is twelve yards in a Piece of Tabling, [...] every Piece of this Tabling, there is two [...] of this Napkins to compleat a sute, it being ve­ [...] and wears very genteel and well, and very [...] the whole sute is generally sold at the best [...] three Pound ten, or three Pounds twelve [...] per sute, which is not above three Shillings [...]ce a yard Tabling, and fourteen Pence the [...], but is as fine as the Holland-Diaper of two [...], and six Shillings, as is of the same figure, [...] People can know it from the right Holland- [...] when washed. There is one sort more of this [...] that is of the same figure, of the French-Dia­ [...]nd is so like, that few people can hardly know [Page 12]it from the right, unless it were compared [...] The next is a sort of Diaper made in Engl [...] very strong, called Huckaback, There is [...] lengths in each Piece, both Tabling and [...] there is of the Napkins from nine Pence [...] lings the yard, the widest of the Tabling [...] ceeding two yards wide, and the narrowe [...] [...] and half. There is other sorts of Diape [...] from Holland and Hamborough, being wro [...] very pretty figures, and is proper only [...] Coats, Wast-Coats or Breeches for Men, th [...] being white Thred, and the Flower is bro [...] that which comes from Holland is broader, [...] stronger than the other, and is much deare [...] [...] Hamborough is not worth above 18 d. at [...] the Holland is sold for 2 s. it is extraordina [...] for Beds or Hangings for Rooms: The [...] [...] Tablings of this. There is Diapers come [...] land to England which are of various fig [...] wears as well as any Diaper whatever, and [...] than Sleasie, but not so dear as the He [...] Works are much like the Sleasie, but th [...] [...] much thicker and stronger; there is som [...] [...] fine, and of the same work of the Hollan [...] [...] both fine and course, in two or three [...] washes as white as Holland-Diaper, if wa [...] There is another sort comes from Scotlan [...] not easily known from Irish [...] Diaper, but [...] difference, it wears like damaged Cloth [...] mer, for in a sew washes it wears to pieces [...] always over-whited, and never wears we [...] you buy it brown or half whited, and if [...] brown, it never wears white till it is [...] There is other sorts of Diaper comes from [...] Indies, and is called Callico-Diaper, it is ca [...] [...] reason it is made of Cotton, as the Callicoes [...] [...] [Page 13] [...] into little figures, there is several bredths [...]ss, the narrow sort is about three quarters, [...] widest sort is yard and half wide, it is ex­ [...]hite, and wears very well for several uses, [...] most decent wear that any Man or Wo­ [...] near for Waste Coats or Petty-Coats. There [...] Callico-Dimerty, which is for bredth and [...]octly the same, but is Wove with a Wale [...]in Dimetty, and is likewise made of Cot­ [...] for whiteness and use is full as good as the [...] and of the two is most worn.

[...] now come to speak of Damask, it commen­ [...] the Letter D. It is a very fine sort of fine [...] and is wrought into several sorts of fine [...] and Figures, of Stories taken out of Scrip­ [...] is for few uses except for Table-Linnen, [...] Table-Cloths and Napkins; that for Table- [...] broader than any sort of Linnen for that [...] the Napkins is always made one third of [...], and as I have given you advice in the [...] so you may observe in this, the Tabling be­ [...] times as broad, [...]is three times the price, [...]ne and white that the King hath nothing Bet­ [...] his Table; but of these there is two sorts, [...] and Sleasie-Damask, as for the Holland-Da­ [...] have in this side described, but for the [...] it is not so fine nor of such curious works as [...]er, it being usually wrought all in Flowers, [...] this farther difference, that it will not wear [...] after washed, as the Holland-Damask doth, [...] is the Tabling or Napkin so broad as the [...], but it is always bought much cheaper. There [...] sort more of Damask that comes from the In­ [...]ade of Silk, which commonly is used for fine [...] and makes very rich Gowns for Ladies, and [...] Petty-Coats, it is a Rich, strong Silk, and [Page 14]wears very well for an Indian Silk, it is w [...] with variety of colours, which is very fine [...] about half yard and nail wide, and contains [...] fifteen yards in each piece.

The next is a sort of Derriband, it being a [...] of little use, and therefore I shall be very [...] in my Discourse of those Derribands; there [...] sorts known by these two names, large Derr [...] ­and small, the large are about yard wide, th [...] is but three quarters wide, the large is eig [...] yards long, the small are about twelve yards: [...] sort of Callico that is very yellow, and wea [...] worst of any Callico that at present is in use, [...] most use it is for, is dying, it will take a very [...] dye for any colour, and is proper for Lining [...] ­ny things, which otherwise is fit for nothing. [...] garees is another sort of Callico which is cours [...] something whiter than the former, yet not s [...] but is much stronger than the Derribands, it i [...] for Shifts for ordinary People, and for Lini [...] many things, and many Pieces are Dyed and p [...] with coloured Flowers. I shall come now to [...] of Strip'd Muslings which begins with D. it [...] called Doreas, it being a Musling that is a ya [...] quarter broad, and the broadest sorts of stri [...] any Musling, and usually the courselst and chea [...] any sort, it wears but indifferent well, but i [...] white.

E.

The next sort of Commodity is Elat [...]his it [...] a [...] Indian Silk strip'd with variety of colours [...] [Page 15] [...] with very modest colours, it is usually for [...]s, and contains just the quantity for a Womans [...], and wears very well.

F.

[...]all begin with Flaxens, of which there is seve­ [...]ts, but for brevities sake, I shall speak only of [...] that are the most usesul at present, and shall be­ [...]ith English Flaxen, because it is made in our [...]e Country, of which there is several bredths, [...] broadest of it being yard and half wide, too [...] for two bredths in a Sheet, and two narrow [...]e bredth in a Sheet, therefore is only proper [...]able-Cloths, it is wonderfully strong, and al­ [...]h it is not extream white at first, yet in a few [...]gs becomes as white as any sort of Holland [...] doth not exceed two shillings six pence the [...]his sort comes out of Lancashire, as doth the [...]other sorts I am going to treat of. The next [...]wide, which is the bredth for Shifts, for a mo­ [...]fize body, but for a lusty Woman it is too nar­ [...]nt is wide enough for any Man, and wears as [...] the former, it is not so fine of the price as [...] other Linens are, but what it wants in the [...] you have compleated in the strength: if it be [...]ing white before you buy it, you may be assu­ [...] will in a few washings be very white. The [...]redth is the only proper bredth for both Men [...] Women for Shifts, it being full three quarters [...] and is full as serviceable as the former, and is [...] alike for whiteness, there is much a greater [...]ity sold of this than of the former, by reason [...]edth fits both Men and Women for Shifts, bet­ [...]an the former. The fourth and narrowest bredth [...] I am going to treat of, is but half ell wide, [Page 16]and is proper only for Children, by reaso [...] bredth. I shall not give you any other descri [...] this, only say, that it is in wear every way [...] former sorts of Flaxen that I have wrote of, [...] say this more, that if you can contrive the b [...] be convenient for Shee [...]s, it is the stronge [...] Linnen now in being for that use or purpose. [...] is other Flaxens of several bredths which co [...] of Ireland, and of several sorts, but I shall [...] the most useful of them, and shall begin [...] broadest, which I have seen three yards wi [...] very fine, and very strong, but this althou [...] useful both for Sheets and Table Cloths, yet [...] commonly made use of. There is another so [...] where the former is made, within, or about [...] ­ty of Dublin, which is made of the same Fla [...] former, and is as strong in wear as our Flaxe [...] the Alcomore-holland, and wears as white o [...] than either, there is some of the same ser [...] three quarters wide, and yard wide, all ma [...] same nature and strength. There is other [...] side those made in the North of Ireland, so [...] wide, some three quarters, and some half el [...] are of great use for Shirts and Shifts, and w [...] white and strong, but not so strong as the [...] made in and about Dublin, and are very u [...] other uses. Fry Burgures are a sort of Slea [...] nen which comes from Germany or Hamborou [...] about yard wide, it is an ordinary Cloth, a [...] and wears very ill, but is white for some [...] hath been worn very much for several use [...] Country, and particularly for Aprons, till t [...] the experience of the wear, but since they [...] other Cloaths much more commodious for th [...] vice▪ this sort holds forty ells the whole Pie [...] twenty ells the half Piece. I shall now [...] [Page 17] [...]lland, which is the strongest and best colour [...] Holland of that fineness, it being a Holland [...]sually half a quarter wider than the other [...]hich are commonly called Frize, but are not [...] this sort is usually known by the bredth and [...]hness, for if it be right Frize, it is not so [...]eded to the Eye, nor wrought quite so thick [...] of the others, nor to any ones liking half so [...] by reason there appears oftentimes thin [...] it, and that it because it is not Callendred, [...]kned as other Cloths that I shall speak of [...]er, but is just as it comes from thee Whitster, [...] any of the least deceit; to know this Cloth [...]lain, it is usually above twenty nine, or be­ [...] that and thirty four Ells long at the most, it [...]rally made up long folded, and hath always [...]ting strings on at both ends. I have at large [...]sed on this, by reason those that have had the [...] will if they can get it, be unwill [...]ng to wear [...] this sort of Cloth is but scarce to be had, by [...] it is not near so fine of the price, by reason [...] bredth and strength, and therefore few Dra­ [...]ill buy it, lest they should not sell it to any [...]age, or at least may lye [...]y them some consi­ [...]e time before it is sold, [...] [...]ther Cloths being [...] the sight, sell quickly [...] [...]vantage.

G.

[...]re being a great many sorts of Cloth comes [...] this Character, but as I have said before, I [...] for brevities sake, treat only of the most use­ [...]s in this Nation, and if what I shall treat of [...] be found acceptable, I shall enlarge hereafter [...]se I shall now omit, and pass by of each Let­ [...] Gulix being the finest fort I shall discourse of [Page 18]on this Letter, and of as great and general [...] all Persons of Quality, and Gentry of any Q [...] I shall therefore begin with that, it being th [...] proper of any for fine Shifts or Sheets, and to [...] most, explain it to all capacities, it is a Cl [...] Yard wide if fairly measured, but by deceit o [...] in Measuring the bredth of Linnen Measur [...] three quarters of an Ell for a Yard, and [...] means makes it appear to be Yard and Nail [...] but as I said before, is bust just Yard wide, the of fine Cloth, the strongest except true Fr [...] any fine Cloth, they are if well made, very eve [...] very thick, and of all Cloth the whitest excep [...] Holland, but is not so fine of the price as a Ba [...] much stronger; there is of this sort of Holl [...] most prices, from two shillings and six pence, [...] teen shillings the Ell, it contains in the Piece [...] twenty nine Ells to thirty one or there abouts, [...] you as near as I can, an account of the lengt [...] prevent your buying a sort of Holland w [...] small thred, which if well made are scarcely [...] known from Gulix but by the bredth and lengt [...] Small Thred being not quite so broad if fairly [...] pared and measur [...] and but in length betwi [...] venteen and nine [...] Ells, and is of no servi [...] I shall observe to you in the Letter S. you m [...] you desire to see the length of either sort, [...] Ticket tyed on to the side of the Cloth whe [...] white-strings are cut off; the Holland called [...] is not so fine by much of the price as a Small [...] is, but wears full as long again as doth a [...] Thred; there is another sort of Gulix, which [...] cut into half Pieces, and is done up in blew Pa [...] [...]eing folded double, and in my observations, [...] count this to wear the best of the two sor [...]s; [...] sort being cut in the middle, is generally half [...] [Page 19] [...]h of this sort of Cloth, they are very finely [...]ed, and is not quite so thick and harsh thread­ [...]er it is washed as before, but is soft; and not­ [...]nd [...]ng thick enough to wear very well, be­ [...] it is even threaded▪ and the reason it grows [...] in the wa [...]h is, because when it is whited, [...]t wetting▪ it is wrenched out of a Pap as the [...] call it, it thicken the Cloth, which they do [...]fine Cloth, except the right Friz [...], for which [...] the Friz [...] is thicker after it is washed by much [...] before; notwithstanding all which, the Galix [...] extraordinary well if it be not thin and ill [...] which will appear in the middle of the Cloth, [...] well observe it. The next for its general use [...]ts holland, or as we commonly call it Gentish­ [...]d, the name of it is derived fro [...] Gaunt in Flan­ [...] of these there are several sorts and bredths, of [...] shall discourse one after another in their pla­ [...]he first of these being Ell-wide of which there [...] for [...]s of whiting; the first and best colou [...] is [...]ders-white, which is very white, without much [...] it, it commonly wears very well if not over [...], it is crelled, and hath whiting strings to it [...]h sides, and is usually the finest sort; the next [...] Holland-whiting, this whiting is always much [...] and blewed, and if much stiffned, and is very [...] hath lain long in it, it certainly wears ill, and [...]xst wears ost [...]er ill than well; it is made up [...]ded, and hath the whiting [...]rings at one end; [...] the same length of the former of this sort, [...] is in length about forty Ells in [...] Piece, and is [...]mes divided for conveniency into half Pieces, [...] is but twenty Ells; there is the third fort of [...] which is whited in England, this sort wears [...] better than, the last mentioned, but with this [...]ce, that it seldom or never wears white, be­cause [Page 20]our Climate is not ho [...] enough to wh [...] thick a Cloth, as it usually is for it being so thi [...] is often frets and wears ill, being Wove so ex [...] thick, that it frets in the [...]easts under Men [...] mens Cloaths, this sort ha [...]h [...]o [...]strings to w [...] by but our way of whitening is to stake Lin [...] the Ground on the Grass: They in Holland and [...] ­ders white it on Sand. This being the last sort [...] broad Gentish that I shall treat of at present; [...] come next to the Yard wide, and give you [...] and demonstrate [...] you each sort [...] due place, which is as followeth; of the Yar [...] there is as of the Ell wide, three several s [...] whiting, the first and best whiting, both for [...] and whiting, is the Flanders whiting, whi [...] esteem to be both whiter and stronger than any [...] of this bredth, though I must confess, as in t [...] mer whitings I have said, that there is in th [...] some Pap or Pulse, which, although it mak [...] Cloth to appear very thick, yet it does not pre [...] the Cloth for wear, but adds to the whiteness colour, although when it is washed out, the [...] f [...]ls thinner and softer to the hand, but wear [...] the worse; the second and next to it, is the H [...] whiting which is both stiffen [...]d and blewed [...] more than the former, by which reason it is pro [...] that the blew if lain long in the Cloth, is ve [...] ni [...]io [...] to the Thread, and makes it wear ill, [...] to your appearance it is very thick and strong [...] next and last sort of Gants-Holland, is a sort [...] same bre [...]th, but whited in England, and alth [...] is not brought to that perfection of whitin [...] wears far stronger than [...] two-former: t [...] difference in the length, the two former [...] about [...]eventy Ells, not much different over or [...] have strings on [...] one side, the latter h [...] [Page 21] [...]gs, and is about forty Ells or thereabouts, not [...] under nor much exceeding that quantity [...] this [...]less it be well whited▪ will not wear white▪ [...] well whited will wear white enough for com­ [...]sifts The next is Garl [...]s, whereof there are [...] sorts, and because they are useful in our [...]dom, I shall treat of them all as near as I can [...] brevity, unless [...] should out-run my designed [...]. I shall therefore begin with the Ell-broad, [...] which there is two sorts of whiting the first is a [...] whiting, this sort notwithstanding its blewness, [...]s as well as any if even and thick; this sort ha [...] [...]gs at the end, and is folded double, this sort is [...] finer of the price than a Genti [...]h, but wears [...] thinner. There is another sort of E [...]l-wid [...] [...]lits, which is of a browner whiting, which sel­ [...] or never wears white, but if thick and well [...]e wears very well, but if thin it wears very ill, [...] notwithstanding is good for Dying, for [...]lews, [...] for Linnens. The next sort of this Linnen is Yard▪ [...], of which there is several length, as well as [...]urs, the first sort is of a blew stiff colo [...], it holds [...]ty Ells in the Piece, it is generally well made, [...] if so, it wears as well as the former; it hath [...]ting strings at the end, is used for Shirts and [...]s, and Aprons. The next of this bredth, is of [...] same length, but is not so stiff and so blew as the [...]ner, yet wears as well as it doth, this hath no [...]ings to it: there is another sort very thin, but if it [...]nce to be as thick as the former, will not wear [...]r so well as it will, by reason it is made of more [...]fie thread than the former is, and is fit or proper [...]ly for Dying or Glasing; this sort often holds 2 [...] [...]s in a Piece, but sometimes holds but 20 Yards [...] Piece. There is one sort more holds but 16 Ells [...] a Piece, this wears usually very well, and is of a [Page 22]pretty white colour, and hath no strings to i [...] is another sort that is three quarters and hal [...] which is thick, it wears well, though not so [...] Flaxens of the same bredth by far, but wears [...] than it doth. There are several sorts of three q [...] bredth, some fine, some coarse, but the fine [...] the best, but the coarse is made of bad Fla [...] wears ill, and is only prope [...] for Dying for [...] flight uses, there are several sorts of three q [...] wide; but those I have spoke of at present m [...] [...]ice, for should I speak to every sort in part [...] I should exceed my designed limits. There a [...] sides all these, several sorts of brown Garlits, [...] are bought for whiting, but these that are wh [...] England wear stronger than any of the other [...] never wear white, but of a black grain, an [...] is others that are bought for dying, which a [...] proper for whiting. I shall now begin with a [...] called Gingams, it is a sort of Callico, for its u [...] service I shall not omit to name, because it fal [...] [...] ­der this Letter, and is of general use, first for [...] and Shirts, as it is for several uses, it is a [...] yard and half wide, of which there are two sort [...] one is double threaded both ways, the second [...] double threaded one way, that which is [...] threaded both ways is forty yards in a Piece, it [...] exceeding white, if washed by it self from other [...] [...] ­ [...].

H.

I shall begin with a Callico called Hummun [...] being a Callico something above yard and half [...] there is fine and coarse, the fine is generally use [...] stitching and flowering, the coarse is only prop [...] Linnen, by reason it is not on [...] coarse but yello [...] [Page 23] [...]welve yards and a half in the Piece, but is [...]in buying but for twelve yards, the half be­ [...]ed for measure to those that retale them. [...]allico that neither wears white nor strong, [...]er of the price than any Callico considering [...]h. The next of this Letter being Linnen, [...]emp Roles, it is always brought into Eng­ [...]n, and is a strong coarse Linnen, yard wide, [...]hen whited very good for Sheets for Poor [...] and is often bought by the Poor People for [...] and although not very thick, it wears admi­ [...]ong, there is much of it used brown for or­ [...]ainting▪ The next is Hammils, a sort of [...] Cloth, there is of this two sorts, Flaxen and [...] the first and finest of this sort is often used [...]ers Shirts, and for Napkins, and often be­ [...] three bredths in a Sheet, is very good and [...]or that use▪ the Hempen is likewise used for [...] Sheets for Poor People, and for Towels, [...]m weam so well as the finest, it is almost [...]arters wide; there is another sort finer than [...] of these, but doth not wear near so well as [...]f these, it is thinner and of the same bredth, [...]d Herford.

[...]ext sort of Linnen comprehended under this [...] called▪ Hockingfielders, of which there are [...], broad and narrow, the broad is of great [...]e instead of Canvas, for Sheeting, but wears [...] so well as right Canvas doth, but when it [...] the Water grows much thinner than before, [...]on it is stif [...]ed after whiting; the other sort [...] yard wide, and by reason of its contrary [...] of little use in this Country, it is a Cloth [...]es out of Germany, it is a Cloth so like Can­ [...]en Callend [...]ed, that few or none can know it, [...]e that use to Trade in it from the right; this [Page 24]shall not last above five or six years, the Ca [...] wear eleven or twelve years in constant [...] may know the right from the wrong b [...] wrong is made up crested when they come [...] is two half Pieces made up in one: it co [...] Ells in a half Piece, but when Callendred [...] long solded, and are but twenty Ells in a [...] for the right, it hath often in a whole piece [...] is Calendred fifty, sixty, seventy, eighty [...] odd measure in a piece, and when Callend [...] cut them into thirty or forty Ells in a piee [...] of no certain length as the other is, and wears much whiter than the wrong doth▪ [...] of this Letter is Huckaback-Diaper, it is so [...] part made in Lancashire, it is a very strom [...] and wears very white, but is made all of [...] the finest that is made doth not exceed 18 [...] or the Napkin, and if the Tabling be th [...] the bredth of the same fineness, it is above th [...] the price, by reason it is more difficult to [...]

I.

There are not many sorts of Linnen falls [...] Letter, but I begin with the Indian Ge [...] and that is Izarees, it is a Callico made e [...] yards long, and is Wove double threded b [...] it is yard half quarter wide, it is the strong [...] Callico that is made, and is the finest tha [...] double threded; it is extreamly worn by G [...] Shifts, when to be gotten as it is the stro [...] dearest of Callico, for it is the whitest of all [...] it hath been formerly sold for 16 d. and yard the finest, but by reason of its [...]om [...] and great use, it is very scarce, and for th [...] is grown very dear, and is at this time s [...] [Page 25] [...] which is 32 [...]. per piece, and but little to be [...] that rate, which I believe is at this time ve­ [...]t to be had, if you would give any price for [...] sort of this Letter is Ind [...]r [...]s▪ which [...] Cloth of [...] great use in this Town, only [...] Towels, it is a course narrow Cloth which [...] Hamborough, it is bate half yard wide, [...]ins about sixty, seventy, or eighty yards in [...] is most used in the Country, and is sold to [...] Shop Keepers▪ As to its wear it wears ill, [...] very thick, which th [...]k [...] cau [...] it to [...] by reason it is m [...] of the wo [...] of [...] [...]der the Letter [...], I think it necessary to give [...]structions concerning Indian Dimetties, I [...]iscoursed something on the same before, but [...] full: There is of this three sorts of bredths, [...]west is three quarters wide, the [...]exd is [...]o [...]d, the third br [...] is yard and half wide [...]y being made of Cotton, and so well twist­ [...]ve, that they wear as well as any Lin [...]; [...] be properly worn for Shirts and Shifts, [...] any person made trial of, he would scarcely [...] of any other by reason of their duration [...]ness: besides the addition it would be to [...]alth; for if Callico be a healthy wear, this [...]etter than Callico, for it is warmer, and is [...] the same sort of Cotton, and is stronger [...] [...]arees, notwithstanding its great strength, [...]rally wa [...] whiter than any [...]: this [...]ime [...]ty is always ten yards in a piece, and [...] Callico Diaper of the same length, for they [...]thing the one from the other, but in the

K.

There are but few so [...] of Cloth come [...] [...]tter K only a sort of Cloth which we [...] land called Kentings, but are called by al [...] other Countrys Sleasie Lawns, and are so [...] Linnen Drapers here, of which there are th [...] sorts, and by reason it is not the proper Le [...] fall under, I shall omit the explanation of [...] this place, and shall refer you to the Let [...] the more plain instructions of this sort of C [...] there fore shall pass on to the he [...]r L.

L.

I shall begin with Linsey Woolsey, by re [...] our own native Manufacture, there are of thi [...] sorts of colours and [...]ed [...] but I shall only [...] those which are sold by Linnen Drapers, [...] there are two sorts [...]law and Green, the Ble [...] the more generally used, and they being b [...] a line, therefore in treating of one will be i [...] ons for both; I shall therefore speak of t [...] you shall see whether it be well covered [...] Woollen, so that the Linnen can hardly be se [...] if you can partly see th [...] Linnen that is not [...] vered, but is thin, and wears not well; be you observe i [...] it be a deep and even d [...]e, places are whiter than others, then those p [...] not so well covered as the rest, neither will [...] either well or of a good colour; the same [...] observe in the Green.

I shall now speak of what Indian Goods co [...] der this Letter, and shall begin with Long because it is the most useful that falls [...] [Page 27] [...]er; it is so called by reason of its great [...] it being usually thirty eight or forty yards in [...] and is about yard half quarter wide, of [...]ere is two forts, fine and coarse, the coarse [...]oper for Linnen of several things, the fine is [...]ed for Shirts, Shifts, and often for stitching [...]-Coats and Wast-Coats, both for Men and [...] and is both white and thick, though but [...]read, the Price at this time is uncertain, by [...] of an extraordinary rise of Indian Goods in [...] but the price formerly for the coarse, used [...]bout Eight Pence the Yard, or Nine Pence [...] and the finest sort used to be for Fourteen [...] and at most for Sixteen Pence, and at this [...] much dearer, and is seared will be dearer [...] is of this sort comes over Frown, which is [...]dying into sad colour and blues, but those that [...] the Indies ready dyed blue, are much the [...] they never lose the colour in washing as the [...]dye doth: you may know the English-dye [...]ndian by the colours, for the Indian-dye is [...]er dyed than the English, for the English [...] and dark [...]pots in it, and there is of the [...]ften comes damaged, this you may know [...]ains you will see in it, and therefore if [...]ny stains in it, try it with your finger, and [...]maged your finger will tear a hole in it with [...] by that you may be sure it is damaged: [...] try any sort of Callicoes or Linnens the [...], where you see any stain is in the Cloth. [...] another sort of Indian thing called Longees, [...] is made of the same stuff your Grass Tasteties [...] which I shall speak hereafter, but with this [...] this sort is wore with variety of colours, [...], and some wrought with flowers in the [...] the check, this is made of an Indian Grass [Page 28]or Herb, from whence comes the name of [...] Herba; they contain ten yards in each piece [...] proper only for slight uses, as Linen of Be [...] for Window Curta [...]ns, they wear very [...] thin, being much stifned, they feel pretty [...] fore they are worn or washed, but after eith [...] are like a Rag.

There is a coarse sort of Cloth called Letti [...] it is a coarse narrow sort of Cloth for Towels [...] is seldom enquired for, there being better [...] that purpose.

There is one sort more I shall not omit [...] mention of in this letter, by reason it takes [...] ginning of one name with the letter L. it bein [...] Lawns, and by reason it is usually called Sleasie. I shall only treat of it in part here, and p [...] letter S. because it begins with S. being called [...] Lawns, the name Sleasia it takes from a To [...] Sleasia in Germany: these Lawns are of two b [...] the one is just the bredth of a Cambrick, [...] three quarters and half quarter broad, if it [...] and well made, it is very strong, and we [...] well, but if thin and uneven, it wears very [...] it seldom or never wears very white, and n [...]standing it often wears very yellow; there is [...] sort three quarters wide, which is made of th [...] thread, and the same make, and of the same [...] in every respect as the former: is be sure yo [...] buy any of them yellow at first, for if you do [...] always not only wear yellow, but very ill, but can get those that are of a clear white, withou [...] ning, and those if well made will wear the whit [...] strongest of any sort. I shall leave you to the [...] S. for farther Instructions, and therefore shal [...] from treating any farther on this Cloth [...] place.

M.

[...] Letter that comes Alphabetically under [...] is M, and shall begin with Indian Goods, [...] there are several under this letter, but I [...] only of the most useful here, of which Mo­ [...] this is a Callico extreamly in use in [...] Work, for Petty-Coats and Waste-Coats, [...]ing, Quilting or Embroidering, it is of se­ [...]eness, and is yard, quarter and half quarter [...] is as white, fine and even as any Callico, [...] comparable to other Callico for the wear [...]lly as fine of the price and bredth as any, [...]m dious for many other uses, a Linner [...] and for Curtains for Beds and Windows, [...]es have no great occasion for strength: but [...]advise no one to use them for Shifts or Shirts, [...]s time many do, for they wear like dirt in [...]on to the double threaded, there is often­ [...] them damaged, that you may perceive, if [...] any stains in them, or if they look yellow, [...] limber, it is a sign they have been washed [...] damage; for the same are stiff in the Piece, [...]thred feels harsher and firmer than the former: [...]ico is known by its length as well as by its [...] it holds a contrary length to any other, for [...] over just nine yards in length only, a little [...] for the Retaler, which is something above [...] of a yard in each piece.

[...]xt is Mulm [...]ls, it is a sort of Muslins used [...] uses in this Nation, but I cannot in the [...] it any commendation, for there is not one [...] in it, in my Judgment, that is praise wor­ [...] the first place it is always very thin, the next [...]generally fray'd, and it not only wears extra­ordinary [Page 30]ill, but when washed two or three [...] wears very yellow, although when you bu [...] they are often to the view very white; it i [...] commonly sold by Hawkers and Pedlars, be [...] finest of the price of any Muslen, but in the [...] perfect Cheat; this Muslen holds always [...] yards in, a piece, as doth many sorts of Musle [...] is usally one yard broad, or as we [...]all it, [...] half quarter wide, you can know it no wa [...] the thinness, it deserves neither Time nor P [...] be bestowed on it, therefore I shall desist.

I shall go on to an [...]n [...]ian thing called Mo [...] nies, for the service of which it may go hand i [...] with the last mentioned, it is a sort of Callio [...] [...] is strip'd sometimes, with yellow Gotten, and [...] times with yellow Silk, it is sit only for Li [...] Beds and for Window Curtains, for which [...] looks very well, but wears very ill in any use [...] any or the least strength is required; those t [...] of it must look it narrowly over, lest there sho [...] holes in it before they buy it, for there is [...] any comes over, but what hath many slits i [...] it is above yard wide, and holds ten yards in [...] it no more deserves to be treated of than the [...] and therefore I shall go on to the next letter.

N.

There being not many sorts which begi [...] this letter, I shall therefore begin with some [...] thing which is called Nilleys, of which there [...] sorts, strip'd and plain, by the Buyers are [...] Bengalls, because they come from the Bay [...] gall; they are yard half quarter broad, and [...] contain ten yards in each piece, but the India [...] now grown as great Cheats as other Countries [...] [Page 31] [...] to falcifie every thing, and for this Stuff, [...] it sometimes a yard, and usually half a yard [...]ter than it used to be, for it used to contain ten [...]pwards, it is of much use for Gowns and Petty­ [...], but does shrink in wearing unreasonably, they [...]ery fine stripes, but are of no great use or ser­ [...] the plain are generally for Dying, and those [...] Dyed are only useful for Linings of Men and [...]ens Cloths, but many sorts of Linnen is much [...] proper than this, by reason of its little service, [...] greater in conveniency attends it, that it [...] much, and by that means often spoils a Gar­ [...]. There is of this sort variety of plain mixed [...]s which are very proper for Mantua's for Wo­ [...] and of late years hath been much used by Gen­ [...]. The next sorts are Neck-cloaths for Men, of [...] there are several lengths and fineness: as to this [...] all the direction that can be given as to the un­ [...]ding of those is, that you must buy the thick­ [...] harshest threaded, and not those that are thin [...], and uneven, they usually hold sixteen in a [...] there is one sort Ell long, another sort is one [...] and a half, long, another length is two yards [...] there is another sort that comes from Holland, [...]de of Cambrick, those wear much better and [...] than the former; there is of the same lengths [...]edths as those from the Indies. There is one [...]ore which co [...]es from Hamborough, these are [...] of Kenting thread, and strip'd at the end [...] former, but wear very yellow and rough, [...] they always look dirty after you have worn [...] you can hardly know them from Cambrick [...]oths, only by this observation, that the Cam­ [...] are broader, and not so much blued as they [...] there is besides these a sort of Linnen called [...]dge Linnen, which if the right, wares very [Page 32]well, but not so well as the true Alcomore H [...] but is so like it, that for bredth, length and [...] it is so much like it, that many knowing Dra [...] not know one from the other, but only by S [...] Ma [...]k, it wears whiter than the Alcomore.

O.

The next Letter is O, of which Letter [...] but few Linnens that is used in this Town, [...] for its general use begin with O [...]nbrucks, [...] of more use than any one sort of coarse Li [...] England, the white is very much used for Shi [...] Shifts, the brown for Painting; it is a sort of [...] not too much whitened, and is thick after whi [...] even threaded, wears well for any use that [...] per for, as for Sheets, to put [...]hree bred ths in [...] they look very fi [...]e of the Price, and wea [...] than a Hocking fielder; as for the brown, i [...] good for Dying blue, either for Aprons, or [...] mens Shirts, it wears for either use very [...] There is one sort of Indian Goods which be [...] with the same Letter, which is called Orin [...]tilies, it is thicker than a M [...]sling, and not [...] thick as a Callico, it is abo [...]t yard half quart [...] and twelve yards long, it is much used for [...] Cravats, and is the best thing for that purpo [...] can be gotten, and wears very well for that [...] hath been formerly used for Hoods for Wom [...] by reason that of late it hath been very scar [...] have made use of other things in the place of [...]

P.

Few sorts of Linnen come under this lette [...] fore I shall begin with something from Indi [...] [Page 33] [...]ed Putcays, of which there is two sorts, one [...] quarters wide, the other almost yard wide, [...]idest is of the same length of the coarse, but [...] this difference, is finer than the narrow, it is a [...] coarse Callico the finest, but if thick, wears [...] well for ordinary Linnens for several uses, they [...] usually seven yards in a piece, and are made up [...] square like a Book, and is but of an ordinary [...] to other Callico. The next sort beginning [...] P, is a sort of fine Callico called Percallis, [...] being of it two sorts, the one is much like [...]poires, and is made up much like it, and is [...]lf the length; the next is made up like a Book; [...] sorts are indifferent fine, and are fit and much [...] for Shifts and Shirts, but the Book-Percallis is [...]ongest, both these forts are one yard half quar­ [...]de, and are eight yards long, and if the Sleeve [...]en out of the bredth, a Piece will make three [...], it is likewise very useful for Stitching and [...]ing, and if well washed washes very white, it [...]h of the nature of Sallampoires, but of that I [...]peak of in its letter, which is S. The next In­ [...] thing is a Silk called Paunchi, it is a sort of [...]hich is about half yard wide, and ten yards [...] it wears very well for Linings of mens Coats, [...]me other certain uses, but it being of no gene­ [...] I shall not farther insist on it; there is a sorn [...] of the same nature, both for bredth and length, [...]lled Gelongs, it hath a few flowers up and down [...] but they are some space distance one from the [...], if either of those are Dyed, they wear gre [...] [...]ersian Taffaty. I had not mentioned the Ge­ [...] here, but that I omitted it in its Alphabet, [...] is of both comes over white, and these are [...] into colours, but if you buy colours, chuse [...] that come ready Dyed. There is one sort of [Page 34] Indian Silk more, called Persian Silk, or Persia [...] fety, which of all Silks that comes from the E [...] dies, is of most use, of which there is abu [...] used here; it is the strongest Silk that comes [...] and is proper for most uses; as for Linnen of [...] for Gowns and Petty-Coats, and Linings of [...] Coats; there is of it white, but the white [...] ever known to be of good white, therefore the [...] are always Dyed into all forts of Colours; a [...] sides, there is of all sorts of colours comes, th [...] Dyed in the Raw Silk, before they are wove, [...] will have those that are, and will wear of [...] gloss, buy those that you are sure are Dyed [...] they come over, for those that are Dyed afte [...] come over, do most certainly wear dull and g [...] and in spots; there is of those Persians [...] lengths, the shortest holds ten yards, the n [...] yards, the next holds o yards, the next ho [...] yards, and seldom any longer; it is yard half [...] wide, but when they are Dyed they hold no [...] yard wide, for they shrink both in bredth and le [...] Dying; the sure to know those that come over [...] which are the best, is to observe the ends, [...] you will find some white wove in, and by th [...] will find they are not Dyed here, or if bot [...] be cut, you will fine a thread of white wove int [...] side, whereby you may know the natural colou [...]

The next Letter being Q, there are not a [...] sent any Goods begin with this letter, that a [...] useful to us in this Nation, and therefore at [...] I shall say no more of it, but pass on to the Le [...]

R.

[...] which there are not many sorts neither, but I [...] begin with what Indian things are only useful to [...] and shall begin with Romals, of which there are [...]dy three sorts, which be termed as followeth, [...]e is Silk Romals, there is Romals Garrub, and [...]m Romals; I shall begin to give you advice [...] of the Silk, and so each in order; the Silk is [...] of all Silk, and if thick, wears well, if thin, [...] very ill; the Garrub is the most deceitful of any, [...]ey for the generallity wear like Dirt, if any of [...] chance to wear well, it is more than we ex­ [...]; the Cotton being the third and last sort, and [...] much the best, for they as certainly wear well, [...]ey are made all of Cotton, as the others wear [...] There is one sort of Indian thing more, called [...]es, it being a strip'd Silk for either Gowns or [...] Coats, there being of it several bredths, but [...]adest is yard and half wide; they do not wear [...] well, but are pretty colours, yet are but little [...] h [...]re, therefore I shall at present pass it by, [...]hall come to Roans and Rasterns, but because [...] is not any allowed to come, I shall pass it by, [...]ome to [...]ushy Cloth, which although it is a [...]e Cloth, is of much use with us, and therefore [...] give you some small directions on this; it is [...]full half yard wide, if it chance so to be, it is of [...]bredth, if you buy that which is fine and even [...]ded, and not too thick, it will wear very well [...]ny use you have occasion to put it to; of this [...] is two sorts, Hempen and Flaxen, but your [...]en is known by being whither and finer than the [...]pen, and wears by much the better; they are [...] they come from beyond Seas tyed up in Bundles, [Page 36]with a piece of the same Cloth they are betwix [...] hundred and three hundred Ells in a Bundle, a [...] though it is sold by the Pedlars, and other Sho [...] the Yard, yet they buy by the Ell, the pieces [...] ry short, the longest seldom holds more than te [...] there being some hold not above five Ells; I [...] not treat any more on this, because I have al [...] outrun the designed limits of my Book.

S.

I come now to S. and shall begin with [...] Goods, and of those Susis shall be the first, it [...] of most general use of any under this letter; [...] is a sort of Stuff, made of half Silk, half C [...] and is adorned with very delightful colours, [...] wears, if not damaged, much beyond your [...] and the more Silk is in it, the better it wears [...] proper for a great many things, as Gowns and [...] Coats in our Nation, but the greatest and mo [...] neral use in this Kingdom are for Linnen of Be [...] Window Curtains, for which they are extraor [...] pretty, because they are usually light colour [...] are cheap; I could mention many other so [...] Sannows a sort of Callico, Sipriss a sort of S [...]lk [...] many others, but of no great use, but in this [...] shall pass them by. I shall now begin accord [...] my promise to treat of Sleasie Lawns, it being [...] ­ry useful Linnen here with us, it takes its nam [...] a Town called Slesia in Hamborough, and not f [...] wearing Sleasie, as a great many do imagin [...] if good of the sort it wears very well; of this [...] is two sorts of bredths, one three quarters and [...] and the other but three quarters; the broad [...] good for large Handkerchiefs, and many othe [...] but is only most proper for Handkerchiefs [Page 37] [...]d sort seldom fails of wearing very well, for [...]y are always made of strong and good Flax, but [...]om wear very white, unless they have very good [...]hing, they are a very good bredth for Shirts, but [...]hardly thick enough for that purpose; of this [...] you may have as fine as a Cambrick, and some­ [...]es there comes over some of Cambrick whiting, [...]e wear very white, the other three quarters [...]e is only proper for narrow Handkerchiefs, the [...]seft sort wears often ill and yellow, but the finer [...] stronger, they being evener-threaded than the [...]se; there be of this sort some of the Cambrick [...]ting, but very seldom, which if you can get, [...]s as white as any, but this I must tell you, that [...] sorts notwithstanding they are of Cambrick [...]ing, when they grow old will incline to wear [...]w; but right Cambrick wears white to the last. [...]ch Cl [...]th coming under the letter S. I cannot [...] it, being of so general use, and of so great [...]mption; it is a sort of white Sleasie-Soft­ [...]h, it is of no great wear, but is fine of the [...]e, and it is of great use for Dying for Hats, [...]ngs and many other slight uses, but not for [...]gth, and since Callico hath b [...]en dear, is much [...]for Linnens for Beds and for Window Curtains, [...]e is two sorts of bredths, one full yard, or a [...]e above, the other full three quarters, they are [...]fferent fineness, but never wear truly white, and [...]ear soft and sleasie, they hold differing lengths, [...]e hold but five yards, those are the very coarsest [...]ll, and as they arise in fineness, they rise in [...]th, the longest not exceeding twelve, or at the [...] fourteen yards, they are bought by the whole­ [...] by the numbers; for example, suppose the first [...]ber be twelve, they will take of 12 of the whole [...]ughout, and then you have the piece that are [Page 38]numbred twelve for nothing, and supposing the [...] bers rise to twenty five, the highest stand i [...] [...] ­teen pence a yard▪ there are several sorts of [...] for Dying Blues, or any other colour, but fo [...] there is several bredths, and of differing price [...] those are not bought by the number; you m [...] for Fief Cloth or Mondross Cloth, which is the [...] est and fittest for most purposes, For these are th [...] er sorts only for Dying. And because Shifts begi [...] the Letter S. I shall here give you such Instru [...] which if well observed and followed, you may [...] by know how to Cut out a Shift out of two [...] Holland, as most People shall do out of t [...] and a quarter, and shall be both as long and as [...] for example; If you will Cut out but one S [...] ⅛ long, take two Ells of Holland, and slit it th [...] the middle; let it be Ell wide or Yard wide, a [...] ­ing as the bigness of your body requires, and [...] it is split through the middle, instead of taki [...] half bredth, and just the same length of th [...] half bredth for the Body, [...]nt of Ell ⅛ off of or [...] half bredths, and just the same length off of th [...] half bredth, which take for the body of your [...] then take the remainder of one of the half h [...] and double it, then lay it a cross, and cut it f [...] Goars, then take the other remainder of the [...] and double it, and cut it in the middle, which [...] just a pair of Sleeves, then you want only f [...] Gussets, which will come out of the hollow [...] the Neck of your Shift, which Rule you may [...] in cutting out two, four, or six Shifts, for wh [...] cut out two take a body of one of the half b [...] and a body off of the other, and when you c [...] take two Bodies off of one of the half bredth [...] two Bodies off of the other, and when you [...] take three off of one of the half bredths, and [...] [Page 39]of the other, and by that means you may cut [...] what length in reason you please; whereas if [...] take your Bodies all of one piece, you can make [...] but two Ells long, and by this means you save [...]arter of an Ell in the Cutting out of each Shift. [...]ld give you other Instructions for Cutting out [...]ll Cloth, that you might Cut a Shift as large [...]f a Cloth half Ell, as others should do out of a [...] three quarters wide, but I shall be forced to [...] this, by reason it would make me out-run the [...] of my Book, and for that I shall treat of it in [...]t Edition.

T.

[...] being the next Letter, there being but few Li [...] [...]f this, that are of any great use here, where­ [...]cklenburs is one, it being a coarse Linnen, [...]enerally very uneven, which comes from Ham­ [...], it is but little different from Ozenbricks in [...]s, and none but those that are of the Trade [...]ll the difference, but the right Ticklingburs, [...]ost as strong again as the Ozenbricks, you [...]ow the right Ticklingburs by this, the right is [...] than the other, and is not so fine, but thicker, [...] thread is not so even as the Ozenbrick, yet this [...] is extreamly useful both in Town and Coun­ [...] there is not many Cloths sold in England that [...]great Consumption as this, and at the dearest [...] above Ten Pence, or at most Eleven Pence the [...] There are other Cloths of this Letter, but of [...] no use here, and therefore I shall refer you [...] to my next Book.

U.

There being few or none except French Clot [...] drr this Letter, as Vehemounty and Vitery C [...] I shall refer you for their Instructions to m [...] Book.

And for the Letters following, they havi [...] thing falls under their Alphabet worth ment [...] and therefore shall conclude with my wishes, [...] may work my desired effects, which I am sure [...] not fail to serve you in, if you punctually obse [...] Directions, and if it is serviceable, I shall m [...] addition of some material things, which [...] omitted for Brevities sake.