LETTER I.

NOthing cou'd give me greater satisfaction than the Com­mands you honour'd me with at parting: My own curio­sity agrees so well with yours, that I find double pleasure in obeying you; for while I am contriving to gratifie your Desires, I am indulging my own. And when I write to the generous Brunet, I do't with the greater complacency in my self, because I know I am to stand before a Judge, who will not too severely censure my imperfections: I re­main indebted to your Clemency, for several favours which are yet unac­knowledg'd; and I consider that I am running into a new Score before the [Page 2] old be paid off, like a Bankrupt who has nothing to afford for his Disabili­ty, but Thanks and Gratitude: How­ever I'll venture a little further on your good Nature, and with the same assurance that I rely'd upon't in our former Correspondences, I begin my Narration.

When I left St. Maloes, I embark't on a Danish Ship that was bound for England: The Port where we Anchor'd was the same where the Royal Ar­mado of that Country then Rode. It fell out very opportunely for my De­sign, that I should come there at that juncture; for the Day after our ar­rival, there was an order for all the Squadrons to Sail, and immediately the Signal was made by halling home the foretop-Sail Sheets. As soon as I came a shore I shifted my Cloaths, and ha­ving furnished my self with the habit which their Sailors wore, I chang'd the form of my dress, and disguis'd my self as like one of them as I cou'd: You may remember that I had been Master of the English Tongue a great while, for I had formerly been in Lon­don, where I resided four Years, and had in that time acquir'd so much of [Page 3] it, that I cou'd express my self per­fectly in whatever I had occasion to say: This was of great use to me af­terwards; and even at first I might have met with some difficulty if I had given them any jealousy of my com­ing so lately out of France, by being destitute of it. But I was now provi­ded against all suspicion; for feigning my self a Hugonot, (which is a sufficient pass for a French Man among these credulous People) I got admittance in­to company of some of the Seamen; and having easily persuaded them, that I had been a sufferer for my Reli­gion, and that I fled from the rage of the Persecution, they become fond of me to such a degree that it had almost prov'd a quarrel among the several Competitors who courted me to ship my self among them, which of them should enjoy my company. These sort of People are stubborn and quarrelsome, apt for all manner of mis­chief, turbulent and hard to be sub­du'd, and highly jealous of their af­fronted Honour, for they have a no­tion of something which they take to to be a point of Honour, which a­mounts to no more than this, That [Page 4] every one thinks himself a better Man than his fellow. The dispute which they had about me was of this kind, every Man courted me to himself, and each oppos'd the other.

I who was not yet well enough ac­quainted with the nature of these fierce Islanders, was at a loss how to behave my self among them on this nice occasion: I saw plainly if I shou'd determine in favour, or in pre­judice of any of their Persons, by seeming to prefer one to another, Civil Wars wou'd have ensu'd. But after some consideration, I believ'd the only way wou'd be to let them know that I had already resolv'd how to dispose of my self, to give them every one thanks for their kindness, and to unite all their differences by concluding in favour of none of them, but to assure them, that I had long ago intended to ship my self upon the Ad­miral (of which I had heard great Fame) and was then come to enter my self Aboard. The Speech which I made to to this purpose had like to have un­done me; for I forgot to change my stile, and they began to find out that I did not talk like a Sailor. This [Page 5] bred a Mutiny, and I was going to have a Council of War call'd upon me, when an Officer passing our Room, heard the noise and came in, De­manding the cause of this uproar, e­very one stood up and wou'd under­take to tell him the Adventure; then from one end of the Room to to'ther there was such a general din, that I verily thought I had been in one of Quevedo's Visions, and that I saw the Devils going again to macerate the poor damn'd Traitor Judas. The pre­sence of the Officer put at last an end to their Fury, and away they march't.

This Gentleman was a Lieutenant, of the very Ship I look't for, who inquiring whence and what I was, I gave him the same account I had done to my Companions, only adding, that I had formerly liv'd in a better Capa­city, but was now reduc'd to circum­stances of great necessity; and having some insight into Navigation, I cou'd not dispose of my self better than in­to the service of a Prince, who had fill'd all the World with the Fame of his Arms.

[Page 6]The Gentleman might perceive by the manner in which I spoke, that I had not always been so wretched as I now seem'd to be, for I did it on purpose to prevail with him for good quarter, and he very civilly assur'd me, he wou'd distinguish me from the rest of the Crew. Then he took me with him, and appointed me conveniences better than I cou'd in reason expect.

One might think, that he who had seen the lofty Navy of France, could not be much transported with what he saw in any other Country; But I can't forbear acquainting my Dear Friend with what amazement I beheld this glorious Show. Never was the Bosom of the Sea insulted by such a Fleet, never was so Magnificent a Pomp. Oh Brunet! 'Tis inconceiva­ble and above description: Let it suf­fice that all the Kingdoms of the Uni­verse come infinitely short of England for the Strength, Number and Beauty of their Shipping. 'Tis true, our pre­sent glorious Monarch has done won­ders that way, but trust me Friend, 'tis all but Pageantry to this.

[Page 7]Soon after my Embarkment, I gave my self up to consider of every thing I saw round me: To speak of all that pleas'd me, wou'd run me into such confusion, that I shou'd not clear my self a great while. I beheld every where matter of sufficient contempla­tion; but that which struck me with most wonder, was the suprizing Brit­tania, the Ship wherein I entred my self, and the Capital of the whole Na­vy. To describe this noble Structure, wou'd be a Task of immense difficulty; In all the fabrications I had seen, I never met with any thing came near her. I know what Opinion you at home have of your own Power, but be as­sur'd from one who was well ac­quainted with the Naval Force of France, That she bears no propor­tion to this, neither in Number, Fa­brick, Ornament, nor Discipline, tho' I confess, it may be said with some justice, That the Rising Sun (which was once the glory of the Gallick Fleet) had many excellencies to make Her remarkable; but when She stands in comparison with the Bratannia, it may be said the Kite is compar'd to the Eagle: Not that I want Ceremony for [Page 8] my own Country; but that my O­pinion in this, and every other par­ticular may be impartial, I shall all a­long speak my mind as if I had no interest in the one side or the other.

The Signal for Sailing being made, one might behold in this Ship a Thou­sand Hands at work in an instant; such a multitude loaded her Decks, that her strong Floors groan'd with the op­pressing Weight, and seem'd to bend beneath it: There appeared in every Face such an alacrity, and in their Hands such readiness, that I cou'd not chuse but be delighted with it.

Our Anchors being up, we made Sail, stretching over to the Coast of France, and standing towards Brest. Here it was that I began to feel some reluctance for what I had undertaken, for I found there was a design of at­tempting something against that Har­bour; and it griev'd me to the Soul, that I shou'd be constrain'd to take up arms against my native Country. I had not been long in this apprehen­sion, ere I perceiv'd the Squadrons to part several ways: That wherein I was, and two more stood back again to Sea, and the remainder stay'd behind [Page 9] and ply'd upon the Coast. This re­liev'd me from my Fears of Fighting against my Country, but I was not a little mortify'd, that the English and Dutch shou'd thus Lord it in the Channel, and drive us under the Pro­tection of our Harbours. It was now rumour'd that their Design was against Brest, both by the Course they Steer'd, and by the great preparation which was made for a Descent; They on the other Side had early Intelligence of the Design, and were so well prepar'd to receive 'em, that when the English land­ed, expecting little or no Opposition, they soon saw their fatal Mistake, and that they had now besides all the Castles and Forts, a huge Army to Encounter. This was the most deplorable Enter­prise that ever the English undertook, and it was almost a pity to see so many miserable Souls run headlong to their Destruction, which they themselves now easily saw, but had not power to avoid. This memorable Exploit is known by the Name of Cameret-Bay-Fight, and will be Famous to all Poste­rity for the bloody Execution, and for the Death of the most Renowned Gene­ral Talmash, who was one of the first [Page 10] who fell. Our Squadrons, which now made up a Fleet of about 40 English, and 20 Dutch, besides small Frigats not in the Line of Battel, Fireships, Store­ships and Tenders, chang'd their Course as soon as they were out of Sight, and stood out for the Main, and we all jump'd right in our Opinions that we were going to the Straits.

At this time our Toulon Fleet had been Bombarding the Coasts of Spain in the Meditteranean. Malaga and Ali­cant and some other Places had already felt the fury of their Bombs, and Bar­celona was to be the last Scene of their Hostility; and by the way I can't chuse but admire the wonderful Intelligence our Master keeps in these Foreign Courts; for he had long known of this intended Voyage, and not caring to hazard his weaker Fleet against the best of his Enemies, he sent Orders to his Admiral before Barcelona to dislodge. And what is very remarkable, the French withdrew from thence the very same Day the English hoist'd Sail in the Channel: 'Twas a Masterpiece of Care so soon to foresee this Storm, and to prevent it; for had they surpriz'd them [Page 11] at Sea, the Consequences might have been fatal.

Our Voyage (I speak of the Eng­lish) went prosperously on, without encountring any extraordinary Adven­ture: Some Prizes the Cruisers brought in, but I think our Country-men made sufficient Reprizals on 'em in all parts of the World. In twenty Days, or thereabouts, we came within sight of Cales, and there another Squadron, com­manded by a Rear-Admiral, join'd us: This last Squadron was the remainder of that commanded by Sir Francis Whee­ler, who was Drown'd at the back of Gibralter, by that terrible Levant which cast away His and Thirteen other Ships, and dasht 'em into Pieces: This Gen­tleman was of great Reputation for his Skill and Courage; but I don't know what can be said for the First, after so notorious a Mistake as he made of the Land; for at the close of the Evening he perfectly saw the Shoar, but he mi­stook his Marks, and thought he had been to Leeward of the Hill, when he was to Windward; and that cost him his Life, and the loss of many good Ships, both Men of War and Mer­chants.

[Page 12]We were now 70 Men of War in the Line of Battle compleat, besides innu­merable other Vessels of inferior Or­der, which made in all a glorious Ap­pearance.

The Spaniards were alarm'd at this stupendious Navy, because they had never, in their Opinions, seen any thing much better than their own.

We had not been long cruising off the Island, e're the Spaniards got ready what little force they had, which con­sisted in all but of Ten Ships of War and Two Fire Ships: With these they joyn'd us, and a great many Com­plements we receiv'd from their Guns, which our General Answer'd.

Of these Ten there were but Three or Four that were fit for Company, the rest were such Hospitals that they were a scandal to the Navy: And though they had been Five Years in fitting out these, and boasted to the World what a power they would bring; yet after Six days sail, most of 'em were disabled, and they could hardly crawl under their Crutches up to Barcelona: However, at their Return, they fail'd not to give out, that it was for fear of them that the French ran away, [Page 13] and the ignorant People, who have a high Conceit of their own power, believ'd all that was said. 'Tis a ridi­culous Story to tell, how they were ex­alted with this Summers Expedition, they verily thought the whole Na­vy of France was not able to Encoun­ter their Ten Ships; and though they came home Cripl'd and Maim'd, because indeed they went out so, yet nothing could undeceive 'em, but that it was the bare appearance of their Ten Ships that set the Enemy a running, and scour'd the Sea. When we came up to Barcelona, we found the Rode clear, and no Marks of an Enemy but what they left with their Mortars. We Anchor'd, and it was some satisfaction to us to see that we were now in a part of Spain, that cou'd acknowledge the benefit they receiv'd by us, and that we were welcom'd a-shore as the Friends and Protectors of Catalonia.

There being nothing to be done here, we stay'd a-while to water and divert our selves, and then prepar'd for our Return; and by the way we put in at Alicant, to see what deva­station the French had made, and per­haps every one but I was mortify'd [Page 14] at the sight. Malaga fared not much better; but because I intend not this as a Journal, I shall make haste to Cales, which was appointed for our Winter Quarters, and say nothing of Barcelona, and the other places we touch'd at, till next Voyage.

After some time of Abode and Con­versation, the English and Spanish grew more familiar: Our General and the Governor had interviews of Ceremo­ny, and every thing tended to a good Understanding. Our Ships were laid up, and every man began to be idle.

In this Interval of Ease, when all the world was at quiet, and War set aside till the Return of the Spring, pleasure was all the study of the Fleet: Every Captain had now his House and his Mistress a-shore, e­very Seaman Surfeited with good Wine and fresh Provision, and his short Allowance-money bought him a Spanish Whore and a Clap: Above all, our Noble General liv'd in great Royalty at his House, which a Don bestow'd on him for his use and di­version, as long as he stay'd: He kept a plentiful Table, and began al­ready to amaze the thrifty Spaniards [Page 15] with that Excess and Profusion which every day appear'd on the board. But when the Fourth of November was drawing near, which is the Birth-day of the King of England, there was such an Entertainment talkt of, as hardly was outdone by any of the Gluttonous Emperors, who are Chro­nicled for their Luxury. I shall pre­sume so much on your inclination as to be a little particular in this descrip­tion; for it made so great a noise all over the World, that you must needs hear on't, but perhaps not know any thing of it, but as you had it in gross.

On this great Holiday the General intended to Entertain all the English, Dutch, and Spanish Officers with a Din­ner and a Bowl of Punch, to Celebrate the Birth of his Master, and to keep up that Amity that was between them­selves: It was already rumour'd as an extraordinary thing; and believing there might be something in't worth my Curiosity, I crowded in to see it, and I can assure you I was so strict an observer of all that past, that no­thing escap'd me, nor shall I relate any [Page 16] thing but what I really saw with my own Eyes.

The Feast was in every respect be­yond what I cou'd imagine; and if I had not been a Witness to every singu­lar transaction, you might perhaps doubt the truth of what I am going to tell you.

There were Four Tables spread in all: At the First sate the Gene­ral, the Spanish General, and Vice-Admiral: The Dutch Admirals, and Two or Three men of Quality be­sides; At another Table in the same Room sate all the English Merchants of the Neighbouring Towns; At the Third which was without, were all the chief English Officers to the number of a Hundred or thereabouts, and in the adjoyning Room the inferior Officers. I never beheld greater plenty at any Feast I had seen at Paris, nor sent in better order: There was such variety of every thing that was in season, that one might have said, the Lakes had been drain'd of their Fish, the Air had been stript of its Fowls, and the Fields of their Cattel; That the Vines had been unloaded for Wine, and all the Gardens in the Province plunder'd for Fruit: The vainest Epi­cure [Page 17] cou'd hardly ha' nam'd that thing that was wanting; and in short, I ne­ver saw a more beautiful Confusion: Every Element had some share in't, and I can say nothing greater of it, than that it was a Banquet fit for the gene­rous Giver, and the august Occasion it Commemorated. When Dinner was over, the General rose, and all the Com­pany after him, and the Scene was re­mov'd to the Garden. When they came there, they found the Punch rea­dy.

I don't know whether Brunet is ac­quainted with this sort of Liquor, but he may guess, when he has heard what the Ingredients are, what an unpa­latable Drink it must be. That which they call'd the Bowl, was a large Fountain in the centre of the Garden, shaded with Lemmon Trees, and look­ing into the Four principal Walks that terminated at the end of the Garden; Now you'll say this seems a little Ro­mantick, but I do assure you I shall write nothing but what was literally true, at least as well as I can remember. There were in this Fountain-Bowl first of all a Dozen English Barrels of Water, amounting to 432 Gallons: Of Brandy [Page 18] there was 188 Gallons: Of Sugar 400 weight, of Lemmons, which the Gar­den it self afforded, about Six Thou­sand: A Pound of Nutmegs, and there was order'd a 100 weight of Biskets, but there was none put in. Thus this Giant-bowl was compounded, and they who were Criticks in this Sort of Li­quor, said they never drunk better in their Lives; for the General had taken great Care to have it well made, and for that end had nam'd three Captains, whom he stil'd the Commissioners of the Punch, to see it duly prepar'd: The Fountain was brim full, and for the Merriment of the Frolick, there was a small Boat built on purpose to float about this Lake of Sulphur, with Oars and a Boy to Row, and to Skink to the Company in Silver Pints that lay thick about the brim of the Fountain: Now the Healths went plentifully round; The Princes of the Confederacy were first huzzaed in Pint Brimmers, as the Emperor, Kings of Spain and Britain, then the States of Holland, and last of all the Generals with an universal Huz­za, which echoed to the Skies. This fearful Noise put me in Mind of the Ottoman way of Warring, for when [Page 19] they begin the Charge, every one Hal­lows as loud as ever he can, and tears his Throat for the shrillest Voice, and then with a general Shout they fall to: Just so 'twas here; The Punch was the Enemy they were to ingage, they fell to Work with a most outra­geous Dinn, and their Ingagement had so much of a real Battle in't, that seve­ral were Kill'd and Wounded in the Assault. Round the Bowl were seve­ral Tables spread with Hams, Tongues, Pickles, and all sorts of dry'd Meats in great variety; and behind 'em, in the Walks, were Consorts of Musick, so far from one another that they were just heard, and distinguish'd with­out Confusion. Now tell me (my Friend) was ever any thing more Mag­nificent? Was ever any thing more Ro­mantick?

This Noble Company (tho' most of 'em had more than they cou'd carry off) sunk not the Bowl above an Inch, but when they withdrew to let in the Sai­lors to't, there was such a Torrent of these Drunken Rogues, that in half an Hours time there was not one Drop left, for with their Hats and Buckets they lav'd it as dry, as an honest Drun­kard [Page 20] does his Glass when he Drinks to a Supernaculum; and well the Glut­tons might, for they were now thirsty after having fed upon a whole Ox that was roasted for 'em, which they cut off the Spit, and swallow'd down burn­ing Hot: So ended this sumptuous Ban­quet.

The Winter being our long Vaca­tion, I had nothing else to do but to make my remarks of the Disposition of the People I was ingaged with. 'Twere a needless Trouble to tell the well Read Brunet what a Temper the English are of, the Neighbourhood of our Coun­tries has always afforded great Com­merce with 'em, and there is hardly a French Man of any Curiosity, but is perfectly acquainted with their Hu­mours. As for the Spaniards, there is such an Antipathy between us and them, that we seldom speak well of 'em, but tho' I were divested of all my Country prejudices, yet I cou'd hardly say any thing to their Advantage, and to tell thee the Truth, I hate 'em hear­tily: But the present bent of my Incli­nation lying another way, I shan't spend my Time in giving Characters, but considering that Brunet is at this [Page 21] time a Lover, I wou'd fain entertain him with some amorous Adventure that's more suitable to his Genius: This idle Time furnish'd us with variety of Intrigues, but as I am no good Histori­an at such Novelties, so I wou'd not render your Time heavy t'ye by relat­ing 'em in my own Stile, but I'll make you amends with a Manuscript, which with much difficulty I purchast of a Traveller who was concern'd in the Ship which was the Scene of the Amour, and which I have transcrib'd and sent inclos'd: But I send it t'ye with such Caution, that I wou'd have you value the Gift, as you wou'd a fai­ry Treasure, which (they say) is dange­rous to reveal. The Author has sha­dow'd his Lovers with imaginary Names, to darken a little so late an Adventure, because the Matter of Fact is true, and of so great Importance. The Story runs thus.

LETTER II.

NOW again I have got something to entertain my dear Brunet with, but how agreable it may be to him, I am not positive to determine, tho' I have taken some Pains to find him Matter of Diversion, and if I give him half so much Entertainment as I re­ceive in furnishing my self with Ad­ventures to please him, I shall think my Time and my Toil amply reward­ed.

As I told you in my last, I had now leisure enough to make my Observation of every thing I saw and heard, and when I got leave to go Ashore to Cales, which I inform'd you, were our Win­ter Quarters, I drest my self in the Ha­bit of my own Country, and went to see some French Merchants I was re­commended to, who were very glad to receive me: And I so well pleas'd them with the Relation of my Undertaking, that I made my self many good Friends among 'em. There are great Numbers of French over all this Kingdom, and [Page 83] I have been told that in Madrid alone there are Forty Thousand, who follow their several Vocations, generally un­der the disguise of Flemings. When­ever I had any curiosity to see the Ra­rities of this Town, one or other of my Friends always accompany'd me, to protect me from the insults of the Spaniards, who are very Inhospitable to Strangers: And where ever we went, I found our Countrymen well esteem'd, notwithstanding their national Preju­dices, for being accounted, as indeed they generally are, Wealthy, the Fame of such a Character draws some Vene­ration from the People.

The City of Cadiz is a very ancient City, the Foundation of it having been laid by the Phoenicians: It is Situate on the Skirt of the Island, famous here­tofore for being the Habitation of Geryon, the Antagonist of Hercules, who is said to have carry'd away the Herds of Cattle which graz'd in this Fruitful Pasture; and at this Day the Pasture is so rich, that Cattle will die of Fat­ness within 30 Days, unless they be let Blood; and, to say true, the whole Province is so exuberantly Rich, that [Page 84] in the Time of the Carthaginians, be­fore the first Punick War, it was a Temptation to those warlike Invaders to make War against it, which they did so successfully, that all that part of Spain was Conquer'd by 'em, tho' after­wards the Romans sent their Armies hither against the Carthaginians, and in process of Time the African Scipio Con­quer'd it, and made it an Appendix of the Roman Empire. This Island by Mariana's Account was formerly 700 Paces from the Continent, and had 300 Leagues circumference: What he means by so extravagant a Measure, is beyond my Apprehension, for tho' I have often Pac d it round to examine if there were any Footsteps of so unlikely a Compass, I cou'd never find 'em, for at this Day it is no more than 3 Leagues about, and the River that parts it from the Con­tinent is so narrow, that a Bridge of 6 Arches strides it over. But as to the Situation of the Land, every School-Boy knows, Hercules concluded his Ramble here, and left his Name to those Two great Hills Calpe and Abyla, which front each other from Africa and Europe, which are to this Day, and [Page 85] will be to all Posterity called his Pillars, as if he had erected 'em for the Boun­daries of his Conquest. It was many Years afterwards the Ʋrbs Gaditana of the Romans, and, one of their Maga­zines for furnishing their Transports in their Maritime Expeditions. The City is not extraordinary large, but so full of People, that no Habitation in the World can boast of greater Numbers, and for Magnificence of Churches, Con­vents and private Houses, neither Pa­ris nor London, Germany or Italy can out go it: The Fortifications are not the best that I have seen, for all the backside which fronts the Southward, is naked; but on the Angle they have built a small Fort into the Sea, which they call St. Sebastians, and in time of War it may serve to prevent a descent on that Quarter: But the front which looks upon the Bay is well walled, and mounted with good store of fine Brass Cannon, and serves for the Evening Walk of the Merchants and other In­habitants. Higher up towards the Bay is a Neck of Land which runs like an Isthmus between the two Seas, lately Fortify'd, and indeed I think, [Page 86] impregnable, and they have good Rea­son to guard that Place well, for it was on that Side the famous Descent was made by the English Generals, Essex, and Rawleigh, who [...] in one Day they Sackt this wealthy City, and laid it in Ashes. A Mile without these Works stands the Castle of Puntal, a small well built Garrison, but ill Arm'd, and more negligently Guarded: For I don't know what use they make of it, but to lay up the Plate and Mony, which, contrary to the Statutes of their Country, they provide for the Genoeses, and other Ships which come here for that Purpose; and from hence to con­vey it aboard. 'Tis true this Castle, and the other opposite to't on the other side of the Bay, made some resistance when Essex invaded 'em, but it was so small, that he was not twelve Hours in gaining 'em, and in beating the Garrison out: The other that I nam'd is built on purpose to Countenance this, and to oppose the Passage of an Enemy into the Creeks, and not being above a Cannon Shot asunder, it wou'd prove hard for a Man of War to go be­tween 'em, if they were well Mann'd.

[Page 87]Within the City I observ'd no regu­lar Militia, only a Muster of a few rag­ged Rogues, which don't deserve the Name of a Regiment, for neither Go­vernment nor Discipline appears among 'em, yet these Rascals are so Insolent, that a Stranger wou'd be in danger of his Life if he shou'd refuse to give the most beggarly among 'em the Wall and the Salute. They have three Gates, which are open'd and shut every Morning and Evening, each of 'em guarded with the Officers of the Cu­stoms, and I think they make little use of 'em but to that purpose, nor that neither effectually, for nothing here is more common, than to run Goods ashore, and carry Mony out, either by Stratagem, or the Connivance of the Officers: At the Sounding of the Orai­son Bell these Gates are all shut, and the Keys carry'd to the Governor, and upon no Terms to be deliver'd out again, unless on very important Ne­cessities. The first and principal is cal­led Puerta de la Sevilla, because the Boats which Trade between Sevil and this City lie before it; the Second is called Puerta de la Mar, because here [Page 88] the Captains and Masters of Ships ge­nerally come a Shore; and the third Puerta de la Tierra, because it is the Key which opens to the Island: But since I have mention'd the Oration, give me leave to acquaint you, That the custom of the Evening Prayer is here perform'd with wonderful De­votion; not but that I know 'tis in all Catholick Countries observ'd less or more; but here it is done with so much severity, that not one Person, be who he will, who is at that time in the Streets, tho' the weather be never so dirty, but falls down on his Knees in the very place where he stood, and in that Posture gives up his Thanksgivings for the Mercies of the Day: And surely there is in this custom, an exceeding show of Piety not to be met with among our pre­tended reformers, those zealots who have elop'd from the Church, and now set up for Christians more Spiritualiz'd than we. It was no small pleasure to me (My Dear Brunet) to see those obstinate Hereticks obey this custom of falling down on their Knees at the call of a Catholick Signal, and bemire their [Page 89] lac'd Coats to conform with a Religion they so much rail against; but 'twas their Fear of being knockt on the Head, and not their Devotion, which made 'em comply, and they were so much in the right on't as to save their Bones, tho' they ventur'd at what they them­selves call Idolatry, as indeed they im­piously call most of our Devotions. Soon as this is over, the City is on all Sides shut in, and 'tis then impossi­ble to get out, and this is the only Face of a Garrison which I cou'd see among 'em.

'Tis almost incredible the Opulence and Traffick of this City, there's scarce a Nation upon Earth that has not sent some of its Natives to Trade here; and among these there's such Diversity and Confusion of Habits and Languages, that at high Change, which is always at Eleven in the Morning, the Scene looks like an Opera, and the Eye is filled with Show and Figure. But 'tis a strange Thing to consider, that among such Crowds of all Countries, there is hardly one Spaniard to be seen, these are so Lazy, or so Proud, that they give 'emselves no manner of Exercise, [Page 90] for they had rather Starve than Work: If they had not the best Country in the World, their Condition wou'd be very Miserable, and as it is, they can but barely Live, for notwithstanding their Ostentation, there's the Curse of Poverty in all their Families. At the time of Exchange one may see some of all the Kingdoms of the Earth ne­gotiating their private Affairs, which are mostly levelled against the Interest of Spain; so that when I consider'd this strange Medley, I cou'd not chuse but commend what I had once in Hol­land seen of a Picture, which show'd the King of Spain lolling on a Table cover'd with Pieces of Eight, with the King of England and the States of Hol­land on each Hand, raking from under his Arms the shining Metal; the Ge­noeses behind his Chair making Gri­maces at him, and the King of France snatching it before his Face, whether he wou'd or no: And indeed 'tis lite­rally true, for all Nations prey upon him, and either by Wile or Force get most of his Treasure out of his Coun­try. How shou'd it else be? For there's not another Kingdom in Europe has any [Page 61] Mines of its own, and tho' the French and English have a small Trade with Guinea, and bring sometimes Dust from thence; yet that is so small a Parcel of the Riches of both Countries, that it must be confest, the Body of their Treasure must come from hence, and so be disperst thro' all Parts of the World, to the utter Subversion of the Spanish Power: And were it not for their Possessions which they still hold in America, they wou'd inevitably fall before every Prince that cou'd draw an Army against 'em, and be reduc'd to Nothing. But to return to Cadiz.

The Goverment of the City is in the Hands, first of the Government, and next to him of the Alcalde; the first is for the Regulation of the Military, as the latter of the Civil Affairs; and be­tween these Two are frequent Disputes about Prerogatives, which are general­ly determin'd in Favour of the Govern­our, who has a Power (such as it is) to awe and intimidate the Civil Magi­strate, who in so deprav'd a Reign may complain of the Usurpation of his Ri­val to no Purpose in the World: At our first Arrival Don Pedro de Velasco [Page 92] was Governour, who was afterwards presented to the Viceroyate of Catalo­nia; a Man suppos'd to be in the Interests of France, and supported by the Autho­rity of his Father, who is Constable of Castile, and one of the prime Mini­sters of State: The Conduct of this Governour was highly Censur'd when Admiral Tourvile lay before this Place; for as it is reported, there was a pri­vate Correspondence between 'em, and the Governor openly regal'd him with several great Presents, to Bribe him from any Hostilities, and to gain the good Will of the French Merchants, who were not wanting to reward him.

Here is an excellent Market for Fish and Fruit; but as for Meat, I have seen more on one Butchers Stall in London, than in all the Shambles here: All manner of tame and wild Fowl are scarce, tho' I have sometimes seen of both Sorts exceeding good, but in no plentiful manner, for these are Fore­stall'd before they come to Market, and they who can't go to the Price of 'em, must Feast on Herbs▪ or eat their Fish as their Daily Food, and thank God for Blessing 'em with the Neighbour­hood [Page 93] of the Sea. Their Pork indeed is the best in the World, but their Mutton, Beef and Veal the worst; for whatever becomes of all their Cat­tel, there is little to be found of 'em in their Markets; and even that that is, is so strangely mamockt in the cutting up, that with that, and the beating of the Sun all Day upon't, it looks like Carrion. To sum up all in a word, nothing can show more Sumptuous than the outside of their Houses; and nothing more Beggarly than their Po­verty within.

Some Months after our arrival, se­veral Visits were made between the English General, and the Governour, but if you were to see the gaudy Pomp of the Spaniard when he puts on all his gallantry for a Visit, you wou'd think your self in the Holiday Show of some overgrown Citizen, when the Pedler puts of his blue Apron to strut along in Silks and Ribbons. Certainly nothing can be more Ridiculous than this Pageantry, and yet you may as well perswade 'em that they're not the Ancienest People of the Creation, as that they're not the most accomplisht in [Page 94] Breeding and Gallantry. The height of their Mode is but to mimick the French in their Garb; and you know they do this to such a pitch of Deformi­ty, that it is become a Proverb, when we wou'd speak of any Body very awkard, to say, He looks like a Spaniard in a French dress. To mention the En­glish, tho' they are our Apes as well as they, yet they wear their Cloathes with a tolerable good grace, and bat­ing that sullen Air which is insepara­ble from all Northern People, they come nearest us of any of our Neighbours.

Whenever the General made his Visit, he went attended with the flow­er of his Officers, as there are many among 'em fine Gentlemen. Once there was a solemn Invitation, from his Ex­cellency a Shore, to hls Excellency a Board, to an Entertainment at his House; the chief Diversion was to be a Comedy, and to this Invitation, the General went with the best appear­ance he cou'd make; and indeed the procession was Magnificent beyond what is commonly seen here: For as the General Landed, the Governour in his own Person received him at the Wa­ter [Page 95] side, and led him to his House, between his Guards and the Soldiers (if I may so call them) of the Gari­son, with such Musick as the place afforded, and a general discharge of Cannon: At his House he was regal'd after a handsom manner, and the Co­medy Acted to the best advantage they cou'd, which yet was very mi­serable: When the General came away, he left a large Munificence behind him, which consisted of Sixty Pistoles for the Comedians, and Sixty more for the Governours Servants. This libera­lity of the General, made a great noise, and the Spaniards ever after exprest a high Opinion of his Gene­rosity, and began to treat the English with more respect.

Without question, their Comedies (as they call 'em, for they have hard­ly any distinction between Comedy and Tragedy) are the vilest things on Earth, and can be out done by no­thing but the scandalous manner they Act 'em in, and the pitiful Decoration of their Stage: You who are a Critick in these Studies, may judge what they [Page 96] are, when I have told you, that in three Days time they can patch up a Play, even in verse, for they are all in Rime, and get it Acted in three more, but after such a barbarous man­ner, as wou'd sooner raise your Con­tempt than your Diversion: I have heard that the Famous Calderon seldom took more time; and tho' his are the most correct of any in the Language, yet if they were brought on the French Stage, the Audience wou'd think the Poet out of his Wits, and a Ballad Sung in a Country Market a better jest: As for their Scenes and Ornaments, a Mountebanks Scaffold is an illustrious contrivance to 'em: Two or three dirty Blankets pin'd across the Stage, serves for the Curtain, that is, The flat Scene before which they Act, and when they have any thing to show behind that, they draw the Wollen Scene, and then the Audience may suppose what they will: One wou'd think they shou'd be asham'd of Day light, they Play in such abominable Habits, and yet they never use Can­dles, but stand in full view of the Sun, and defie the Devil and the [Page 97] Critick. My Friend, Even in these trifles we may observe the dissimi­litude between this Country and all others, for I think 'em altogether and in every thing the most contrary Peo­ple on Earth.

And as if these People had contriv'd on purpose to be opposite to all the World beside, they erect their Boxes just where our Galleries stand, and the Pit which with us is taken up only by the Gentry, is with them prosti­tuted to the Vulgar at the Price of about a Tester: But with this remark­able difference, That the Benches are lockt up, like the Pews in Protestant Churches, sometimes purchased by particular Families, but generally to be open [...]d to every Scoundrel who starves a Dinner to treat himself with Sixpeny worth of the Play. As to the Boxes, they are built on high from each side of the Stage to the end of the House, not near so commodi­ously as our Galleries; and the charge of one of them amounts to about Twelve Shillings, and that finds room for half a dozen: But for the most part, these boxes belong to such and such [Page 98] Houses of Quality; and as we say, This is the King's Box, &c. They say, This is such a Ones, and this is such a Ones— But when any of them are not taken up by the Owners, the Box-keepers make Money of them to others.

Another Bar besides the situation, to render these Boxes more inconveni­ent, are, the Grates which they always put before 'em. This Custom arises from the Care the Women take, or the Men for 'em, that they shan't be seen; and because they must deprive others from seeing them, they deprive themselves of seeing the Play.

One of the Plays which I was at, invited me there by the curiosity of the Title; it was the Story of the English Earl of Essex, and Qneen Eliza­beth; which because I had read both in French and in English, I was re­solv'd to see what they made of it in Spanish; and to be ingenious, I cou'd not chuse but be extreamly Scandaliz'd at the Character which they make of that Princess; for she is there repre­sented as the blackest and most de­form'd Monster in Nature, a Tyrant, Homicide, an Usurper, Bastard and a [Page 99] Witch: And even out of the Play-House, the People have the same Opi­nion of Her; and which is more in­tolerable, I have heard a well read Gentleman, but hot and zealous, affirm, That she was contracted to the Devil, and that she was branded with a great black Beard, which made Her hor­rible to behold.

When I consider'd this, I found these Impressions are convey'd to the Laity by the Artifices of the Priests, to give 'em an invincible abhorrence of those they call Hereticks, and tho' nothing is more evident, than that this is as Lye, yet the common People are so tena­cious of what the Church tells 'em. That they'll sooner quarrel in defence of such a falshood, than admit of any Conviction. I saw several other of their Plays, but as they are crampt into short Verses, and the sence very much pincht in for the sake of the Rhimes, so I was sometimes puzzled to un­derstand 'em; in the main, I believe, there may be Wit in some of 'em, or else the People are easily provok'd to Laughter and Admiration; for their Applauses are often exprest by crying, [Page 100] Vita, Vita, which is contracted out of Victo­ria, a Word that signifies their good Lik­ing and Satisfaction: I observ'd in most of their Plays that they are very happy in what we commonly fail, and that is, in the Oeconomy of the Fable: Their Plots are neither so intricate as to confound, nor so transparent as to be seen thro', but substantial, clear and surprizing: Their Verse is every First and Fourth, and Second and Third; and their Acts, which they call Jornadas, are never more than Three, only at the end of each, they bring in a scurrilous Inter­lude of Farce and Nonsence, disgrac'd with a Guittar and Harp, to make the Rabble Laugh.

I shan't delay you with any more Re­marks of this Place, I have already too far Transgrest, for indeed there can be but little Pleasure, either in Writing or Reading any Thing that can be said on such a wretched Subject. Give me leave only to add, that this Country is intolerably Hot, which makes good what one said of Hell, that if he were to place it in Africa, Libya shou'd be his Choice, but if in Europe, no Place so fit as Spain for the burning Mansion. [Page 101] This extremity of Heat is the Reason, that from Twelve to Four in the Af­ternoon, every Body goes to what they call their Cesto, that is, to Sleep, and the Streets for that time are as si­lent as at Midnight, and no greater ap­pearance of a Trade than if it were the Sabboth; so that when the English, who were not accustom'd to Sleep at such Hours, wou'd be about the Streets, the Spaniards made a by-Word of 'em, and said that at such a time nothing but English-men and Dogs walkt a­bout.

But now I have been mortifying you with these heavy Complaints, let me try if I can lighten your Spleen a little with something more relishing: As you are a Friend to a Bottle and an Intrigue, you can't chuse but be pleas'd with the Conversation of some honest jolly Friars that are here: Those of Spain are commonly more Temperate than the French, the French yet more than the English, and indeed that's no Wonder, for the English can hardly pro­duce any Nation that excells 'em in all manner of Lewdness: Here are in this City of all Countrys some, and [Page 102] of all Orders, from the stately Castilian, down to the humble Irish-man, and from the proud Jesuit to the lowsy Capuchin: The Clergy are so numerous and so Rich, that I have been faithfully told, near a third Part of this well Built City is in their Possession, either given 'em by pious Legacies, or purchast with ready Mony: Besides some fourteen Convents of Monks and Nuns, there's a Hospital called, St. Juan de Dios, which is maintained with the Profits of the Play-House, the Stage being in­terdicted, unless it pays (as I remem­ber) about 2 thirds of their Daily re­ceipt to its maintenance: The Occasion of this heavy Tax on the Theatre, was the result of the Bustle which the Spanish Jesuits made to get it supprest: The Story is very Famous under the Name of Pedro de Guzman, a zealous Churchman, who wrote a Book, where­in he vilifies the Stage, seeming to be much scandaliz'd at its Impiety, and giving it all the Opprobrious Terms he cou'd gather out of the discontented Fathers; and concludes, that it is equal­ly Shameful to the Catholick Religion, to bear with this (which he calls) Pa­gan [Page 103] Lewdness, as to suffer the Bull-Feasts, which gave it at all times such infinite Scandal. The Latter is a Cu­stom which they derive from the Moors, who once Inhabited their Country, and was among other Sports, in mixture with a deal of gross Superstition, left to these Spaniards their Successors after they were expelled Spain, and which are still highly prevailing at this Day: I shan't go about to describe this hea­thenish Sport, it being already done by every Author who has writ any Thing of the Country; only I shall tell you, that once I had the Curiosity to be pre­sent at one of 'em, ar which Time I saw 33 Bulls cut down, and macerated alive one by one, by these inhumane Butchers. Tho' I found much Cruelty in this kind of Pastime, yet I cou'd not chuse but be diverted with the Dex­terity of the Spaniards, in amusing and shunning those fierce Creatures: The Bulls which are design'd for the Sacri­fice are all manag'd, for they are kept wild, and for some time before the Day of Sport, shut up in Darkness, to render 'em more Furious when they are let out into the Light and the [Page 104] Crowd: The Combatants of this Day were some Gentlemen, whose Relations had been formerly Foil'd by the Bulls, and then lying under (what they call) an Impena, to revenge the Disgrace, which is a Puntilio of Honour they never fail to observes: They came in­to the Lists, drest up like Morris-Dan­cers, Riding upon Mules, as fine as themselves; and one after another, they ran their Course: This Impena (if I call it right) is reckon'd a Disgrace of the highest Degree, if any Cavalier comes off without Killing his Bull, tho' he himself be Wounded, or perhaps Kill'd, as it sometimes happens, there lies an Infamy on that Family, till some other Branch of it takes off the Attainder, by Slaying one of the Sava­ges with his own Hand, which at last, tho' perhaps with the Sacrifice of most of the Family, they never fail to do. These Gentlemen were reputed great Dabs at the Game, and so they prov'd, for by one Shift or other, they all came off unhurt, having redeem'd the Dis­grace of their Friends, and acquir'd to themselves universal Applause. But on these Holidays of Bull-Fighting, eve­ry [Page 105] Fellow gets ready his Dart or his Spear, and with that in one Hand, and his Cloak in t'other, he Wounds the Bull, and defends himself; for as soon as he strikes, he throws his Cloak about his Eyes, which catching on his Horns, muffles him, and gives the As­sailant an opportunity of Escaping.

This dexterity of the Spaniards makes all Strangers wonder: Among the rest there was a drunken English Sailor, who was extremely pleas'd with the Sport, and was resolv'd to take a run himself; he thought himself as good a Man as the best of 'em, and why shou'd not he show his Courage as well as they? It happen'd immediately that there was a fierce Bull turn'd out, and now was the time to shew himself: Out then he steps into the Lists, with nothing in his Hand but his little Hat, which was not much bigger than one of the Bulls Eyes, and in a daring manner waits for his running at him: Soon as the roar­ing beast saw him, he ran furiously towards him, and there being no Bo­dy else in the Lists, the Sailor must now make the best of a bad Market; the poor Fellow still stood his Ground, [Page 106] and when the Bull came near him, he try'd to amuse him with his Hat, as he had seen the Spaniards do with their Cloaks, and throwing it between his Horns, it signify'd as much as if he had held his Hand against a Thunderbolt, for down he came upon his Back, with his Face to the Bulls, one of the Bulls Feet on his Stomach, and one of his Horns thro' his Cheek and out at his Mouth.

One wou'd have thought these Braves that saw him, shou'd have run in to his Rescue, but not one of 'em stirred, tho' the defeated Hero lay every Mo­ment expecting Death; till of his own accord the generous Beast got out his Horn, and as if he had been sensible of his Conquest, left him on the Ground, and walkt on as if he were sa­tisfy'd with his Victory. Soon as the Bull quitted him, then they run Races who shou'd first see if he were living, and finding no other hurt about him but that of his Cheek, he was carryed to the Hospital, and soon afterwards Cured.

If you have the Curiosity to ask on what Occasion these Bull-Feasts are ge­nerally [Page 107] made, take this Account which was given me of that which I was at. The Duke of Medina Sidonia, Captain General of Andaluzia, had a Son at the point of Death; his Life being given up by the Physicians, the Duke had re­course to the Prayers of the Church, as his last Remedy; and particularly addrest a Monastery of Augustines in the Town where he Dwelt, to offer up their Intercession for him: In some Time after the Gentleman recover'd: and the glad Father, thinking his Re­covery had been an effect of the Pray­ers of the Convent, presented it with these 33 Bulls, to be first Baited for publick Diversion, and as a Token of his Gratitude, their Carcasses to be de­voted to the Holy Fathers.

This is not always the Reason of 'em, for sometimes the King, or some Grandee, entertains Embassadors with them, before the royal Palace at Madrid; or, for want of a better Occa­sion, sometimes the Mob: When ever the latter happens, it is done to pacifie their Clamours, for they are al­ways Mutinous in a Time of Scarcity, and then the King appoints 'em a Bull-Feast, [Page 108] which is both Sport and Supply to 'em. Tho' generally this is per­form'd here with Circumstances of great Ostentation, yet in Barbary they have 'em in ten times more Splendour. Those African People being lovers of all sorts of Cruelty, and not to be pleas'd but with such savage Diversions. But so much for their publick Sports—I cou'd now make you merry with another kind of Gallantry very much in pra­ctice among these Spaniards; I mean that of Pimping and Intriguing: And tho' these two Excellencies are chiefly pre­vailing among the Laity, yet to give the Church its due, the Clergy are very dextrous at any thing wherein a Woman is concern'd.

But since I have mention'd the Re­verend Clergy, let me not traduce 'em without entring their Convents and Chapels, and examine what sort of pri­vate Devotion they practise; and I can assure my Friend whoever sees 'em in their cells, tho' they are zealous pretenders, and carry to the World such a Face of Austerity, will find no­thing less than Mortification among 'em.

[Page 109]Consider, My Friend, I am not speak­ing of all that are in Religious Or­ders, God forbid I shou'd accuse so so­lemn a Life with general Prophannes: No Brunet, I have a profound Reve­rence for that Monastick Holiness which inspires the greatest part of 'em; but yet as in all other Societies, there are even among these, some Corrupt Mem­bers which shame the Sanctity of our most Holy Communion, and are Weeds that ought to be torn from the Earth, and Rooted out from the Churches of the Faithful: I am now speaking of those abandon'd Hypocrites, who have other secret Causes for their entring into holy Orders, than Contrition and Repentance. That there are such, every Age hath inform'd us, and every Convent, or there wou'd be a little work for publick Scandal, or for Con­fession, and such severe Chastisemenas as are often exercised in 'em. It was my Fortune to be acquainted with some of these we are now speaking of, Brave Fellows, My Friend, Men who wou'd stick at nothing to gratifie their Ap­petites, or to serve a Companion. If a Husband or a Brother be in the way, [Page 104] they have devices to remove 'em, and such subtil Stratagems as will hardly admit of Opposition: That what I say is true, every English and Dutch Officer that's here will bear me witness; for there's hardly a Gentleman in the Na­vy that loves an Intrigue, and can part with his Money, but has been helpt by one Friar or other of his acquain­tance. Tho' I am very much scandaliz'd at so great an infamy, which gives oc­casion to our Adversaries to reproach us; yet in spite of all shame 'tis an ab­solute truth, and so much the more deplorable.

It may well be answer'd, if it shou'd be ask'd how these Vermin have a knack at Pimping above any other Peo­ple, that by the power they have when they receive the confessions, they dis­cover who are Corrupt; and having known that the rest is easy. And that these Villains are sometimes as success­ful in Debauching innocent Maids, as they are in continuing the pollutions of others already Defil'd, has been no­toriously prov'd by Examples, that have occur'd to my particular knowledge; and the reason is plain, why the Priest­hood [Page 111] is more mischeivious that way, because the doors of every Family lie open to them, and that reserva­tion which Parents use in guarding their Children from all the World beside, is put by at the approaches of a Priest, who, wherever he comes, is as familiar as if he were one of the Domesticks. The liberty which they thus assume, as it is the particular priviledge of the Church, so it is very serviceable to 'em in their Designs of every kind, but principally to insinuate for Alms and Benevolences, in which they are so dextrous, that 'tis a hard matter to avoid 'em: For besides the Artifices they use by fair means, they have always the necessities of the Church to pretend, and when good words won't do, they have a Purgatory and Damnation to awe the unknowing Vulgar. I wou'd not say this of the Roman Clergy if I did not know it to be litterally true; for as I wou'd be thought impartial in my re­marks of every thing I undertake to Relate; so in this particular I woud shun all detraction, and cover as much as I cou'd the nudities of the Catho­lick Communion; but to deal plain­ly [Page 112] with a Friend, I found within these holy Societies very much Corruption and Degeneracy; I found Abstinence and Chastity, which are their Principal vows, no more than nominal Vertues, but I saw every where an egregious abun­dance of Slothfulness and Luxury, with a disguise of Hypocrisy to cover it, and to keep up the reputation of the Cloyster. I say not this universally of Religious Orders, it were pity if this shou'd be generally true of these re­cluses; without question, there are multitudes of Saints among 'em; but granting that, yet 'tis beyond all con­troversy true, that they have extream­ly degenerated from their first institu­tion, and instead of giving themselves up to Works of Piety, and the study of the sacred Scriptures, as their Pri­mitive Fathers did, they are sunk down into a Lethargy of Ignorance and Stu­pidity.

I believe, my Friend, it wou'd not be very difficult to find a reason for this Apostacy, when we consider, how easily they give admission to every lazy indi­gent Wretch that can give little or no Account of his Faith, taking the sacred [Page 113] Habit only to skreen him against the Gripes of Poverty, and the injuries of Fortune. But one wou'd think, not­withstanding all this, that among so many idle People, who have nothing to mind but their Prayers and their Study, that there shou'd not be a grea­ter show of Learning, not to mention any thing else; but let Brunet believe what I now tell him, that in all the Conversation I have had with 'em, I scarce met with one in twenty, that had any other Language than that he was born with; or at the best, if his Practice at the Altar had furnish't him with some loose Fragments of Latin, it was commonly no more than wou'd serve to ask me what Country-Man I was, or to tell me how many Masses are said in a Day: Not but that there are some of 'em great Masters, but these are so few, that a Traveller may weary out his Patience, before he can meet with one who can satisfie his Curiosity in any question of importance.

[Page 114]The Jesuits are the only Order by whom the more polite Studies are in­courag'd; of these indeed there are many great Criticks in all manner of Sciences, and 'tis with which Wisdom, that they are appointed the Missionaries to go Abroad, for the first thing they study, is Humanity, and that in the chief place fits 'em for these wonder­ful Expeditions which they are sent upon into the parts of the World. Besides this, they are perfect Profici­ents in all the parts of the Mathema­ticks, than which nothing can be more necessary for the conversion of the Eastern Nations, who are extreamly bigotted to Augury and the study of the Stars.

The Method which these cunning People have to recruite their Order with a succession of ingenious Men, is very remarkable; for in all Countries where they are, they ingross to them­selves the Education of all the Youth, and when they find a Boy of a to­ward spritely wit, as it's easy out of sometimes a Thousand, as I have known [Page 115] in one School, they secure him to themselves, and bring him up to their Order. By these means they never want a supply of able Men to carry on their Designs, and to preserve their Superiority over every other fraterni­ty.

At this time I was recommended to make a Journey to a Monastery of Carthusians, distant some four Leagues from hence: My company was a French Merchant and a Religious of his ac­quaintance; so crossing the Bay, we rid it in two Hours, but after such a barbarous manner, that as bad as I love walking, it had been much for the advantage of my Bones, if I had footed it thro' all the bad ways.

Our Mules (for here are rarely any Horses) were some of them which al­waies ply at the landing Place, cover'd with Packsaddles instead of Padsad­dles, and Rein'd with Halters instead of Bridles. The seats of these Saddles are as flat as a Cushion, but not half so soft; and the fall on each side [Page 116] stretcht out so wide, that 'tis as bad as the rack to sit on 'em: And to all this the sawcy Muleteer, tho' there be but the Tail to ride on, will be sure to be up behind you, if you don't out gallop him, or threaten him with more than bare words. In this man­ner we went, and when we came with­in sight of the Monastery, we dismoun­ted, giving our Mules in charge to the Owners, who footed it as fast as we rid. Here we took out a Bottle, and some Provision, and what was remaining after we had done, we sent to our Jockeys; but the proud Spani­ards tho' they were ready to starve for Victuals, refus'd our leavings, and sent us back in answer, That if we thought 'em not good enough to sit down with us, they thought 'emselves too good to take up with our Orts.

This was Demonstration beyond whatever I had heard of the Pride of these rascally Peasants; but indeed in every thing else that we had to do with 'em, we found 'em always the same

[Page 117]We entred the Monastery, and be­cause I was mightily smitten with this superb Building, I can hardly forbear you giving its Description. I was so delighted with every thing I saw, that tho' I had seen that in Lyons which is justly counted the finest in France, I cou'd not suffer any comparison between this and that, neither in the Archite­cture nor Decoration.

Thro'out the World the Houses of this order are the most Magnificent of any and as much as they out-do all others, so much does this exceed all that I had seen of the same Founda­tion. The reason of this grandeur is evident, for they admit none into their Habit, but Persons of the highest Qua­lity, who generally bring all, or the best part of their Estates in along with 'em, and dedicate 'em to the Mo­nastery. This which we now speak of has such prodigious Revenues, that in a Year of scarcity, in the City of Cales, they undertook to supply that populous place with Provision of all kinds for Twelve Months out of their [Page 118] own Magazines. The number of Fa­thers in the House was Originally li­mited to Thirty Three, but at this time, there were no more than Eighteen; and we were inform'd, there seldom are more, because of the rigid and in­supportable severities of their Vows. We were likewise told, that when it was first Erected, the reputation of the House brought from all parts of the Kingdom, such as offered 'emselves to it; but when they had a while groan'd under the rigours they were forc't to observe, they were no longer able to indure 'em; and because there was no returning to the World, they sent 'emselves down to Hell by despe­rate and violent Deaths.

For five Days of the Week they are deny'd all Conversation, or so much as the sight of one another, only Tuesdays and Thursdays in the Afternoon they enjoy for their Relaxation, and 'tis upon these Days the House is open for Stran­gers to see: When we went in, we met with some of the Fathers coming out, they surpriz'd us e're we expected 'em, and I confess, I was never so terrify'd [Page 119] with the sight of human Creatures before. In their Faces they bear such marks of Austerity, and such Reve­ence, that to them who are affected with Solitude and Contemplation noth­ing cou'd be more moving. We were carry'd by our Guide to the apart­ment of the Procurador, and he enter­tain'd us very curteously with Wine, Oranges and Citrons, which grew in his own Garden. He had two Rooms to himself, as they all have, one for his Study and Refection, the other for his Dormitory. They eat nothing but Fish, but of that they have such va­riety, that they never want change ei­ther of what they are to eat, or the manner of dressing it: In the com­mon Garden we saw a Fountain full of tame Carps, which at the call of the Feeder, wou'd put their Mouths above Water, and take their food from his Hand. The Duke of Medina Si­donia, has a little House Built within the Walls, where he lies when he comes to his Devotion, tho he lives a good way off; invited here, I sup­pose, [Page 120] by the Healthfulness of the Air, and the Beauty of the Monastery.

I cou'd say much more of this No­ble Structure, for on such a pleasant Subject, 'tis harder to say little than a great deal; but I consider, that I have been already too prolix, and because here I found the best retirement, I took an afternoon to my self, to peice to­gether my Prayers, and to fit 'em up to what you see they are. Therefore i'le shut up this Letter, only putting you in mind, that you are indebted now two to me, who am,

LETTER III.

I Make hast to back my Second Let­ter with a miscellany of Observa­tions which I made after my return from Xeres, because I wou'd not be thought▪ idle, or forgetful of my Duty. And the first remark that occur'd, was that of the Spanish manner of Eating, and dressing their Meat: And certainly no People upon Earth enjoy 'emselves so little in their Appetites. Whether their Tempe­rance be the cause of their ill Cookery, or their ill Cookery the cause of their Temperance, is a Question; for as the first is a Quality they value them­selves upon, so the latter is a shameful Truth, for in all my Life, I never saw such Mammock and Sluttery. Not that what they eat is in it self offen­sive, but between the Butcher and the Cook 'tis so miserably handled, that our Prisons wou'd hardly receive it: And yet 'tis a thing imposible to perswade a Spaniard, that they are not [Page 122] the only Nation in the World that knows how to eat well; if you ob­ject to him his Safron, he tells you, 'tis Savory; if you find fault with his Oyl, he answers you, That Oyl was one of the Blessings of the Land of Canaan, but when you come to touch his Sacred Garlick, he brushes up his Whis­kers, flies into a Rage, and wonders at your folly.

When the Table is cover'd, your Meal is serv'd up in Plates, or very small Dishes, and hewn into so many Diminitive Pieces, that your Knife may lye by till it grows into a Sword before you have occasion to use it: and if you shou'd dare to call for a Fork, the good Man will stare at you as if your Temples were forked with a pair of Horns. I my self have been at an Entertainment, of no mean Fi­gure, where we had all the services in Plate, but not a Fork to be seen, where above half the Company had not Knives, and of Twenty Dishes of Lenten Diet, Red Herring was the chief. The best on't is, the Wine is good, [Page 123] and the desert is excellent, and with­out much ado an honest Drunkard may make a plentiful Meal among 'em. That which, at the end of the Entertainment gave me the greatest sur­prize, was, to see a large Silver Ba­son brought in, that almost cover'd the Table, for every Body to wash together: And as with us 'tis counted rude to dip into anothers Glass; so here they count it rude not to dip altogether: when we washt, a Servant that stood at the end of the Table, threw a large Diaper Napkin among us, and every one took a part to wipe him.

I, who yet had an inclination for the fair Sex, was very uneasy that the good Woman of the House did not sit with us, and bring two Daughters she had, which were reported to be very pretty: My impatience to see those hidden Charmers, made me im­portunate with Don Francisca Castiliano to speak to the Man of the House to send for 'em; but he told me, such a request wou'd offend him, and he wou'd not by any means as'k him; [Page 124] then I turned to an Italian Gentleman who sat next me, and he assur'd me, 'twas to no purpose; for he had lodg'd in the House two Years, and never had seen the Daughters, I was heartily vext at this nicety, and thought it a lit­tle uncourteous to disappoint a stran­ger's Curiosity.

And now I am upon the Subject of Women, give me leave to make you what Description I can of them.

The better sort are very Beautiful, fair of Complexion, if compar'd with the Vulgar, for which there can be no better Reason, than that they stay altogether within Doors, and escape the injuries of the Sun and Weather: Of shape they are exceeding fine, and indeed that may be generally said of the Spaniards both Men and Women for to my remembrance, I never saw any there either Deform'd or ill Made.

There is but one Day in the Year when they are allow'd their Liberty: and then 'tis so absolute, that a Wo­man may Cuckold her Husband to his, [Page 125] Face, and defy every thing but his Dagger. On this Day (which is Cor­pus Christi) the Churches are all open, and a deal of fine Pageantry spread without the Houses to Solemnize the Festival. The Women walk the round of their Devotion to all the Churches and under, the umbrage of that, commit those things which at another Season they have not the freedom to do: And I have been told, that they'll intrigue the Year round to finish it at that time, while their Husbands and Fa­thers are busy in the general Proces­sion that takes up all their Leisure; nor are the Duegna's so dreaded for their watchfulness, able to prevent 'em. Besides the Beauty of their Persons.

Their dress is so singular, that a stran­ger must needs be pleas'd with it: Their Heads are not embarast with Commodes, nor their Wasts with Stayes. On their Shoulders they ware lac'd Hankerchiefs, instead of Nightrails, and their Hair, which is the finest in the World, is richly pleated with Rib­bons, and falls down to their Seats. The outside is yet far inferiour to what [Page 126] is underneath, (for they affect an out­ward show of gravity) but under their Wastcoats and Petticoats, they wear the most sumptuous Ornaments they can can purchase. But the most singu­lar fancy they have, is that of admi­ring little Feet, and to this end, they cramp their Children when they are Young, and as their Feet are strait­ned, their Legs are inlarg'd, which is likewise accounted graceful: I was of­fended at this Custom, and when at the Play-House I saw a Woman Act a Man's part, who had large Carman's Legs, I complain'd of it to my Friend, who told me, that was the only Beau­tiful Part about her. But tho' they take such pains to Beautifie their Feet they are extreamly shy of showing 'em, and 'tis held a Favour as great as any thing can be afforded, when one of 'em uncovers her Feet to show 'em; after this and a Kiss nothing is de­ny'd, for he who has these two, is Master of the rest of her Person.

The Men of Spain are not so fair as the Women, they are well in Shape [Page 127] and Stature, Active, but unwilling to show it: I need not say much of 'em, every History being particular in this, and every thing else that con­cerns the general Discription of the Country. Their Habit is for the most part the Castilian, tho' I observe, of later Years, they begin to affect the French, especially they in the Maritime Pro­vinces, distant from the Court; or such as have been abroad; and as this dress is plain and cheap, so it is the most advantagious in the World to display the Elegancy of their Shapes, for every thing from the shoulders down sits to the Skin as close as the Skin does to the Flesh: But about the Neck they're always loose: One Rea­son of that, is, to show their Linnen, for tho' that is not very fine, yet 'tis of an excellent Colour, and the work which they bestow about the Neck and Hands is so amazing, that I really knew a Butcher in Cales that gave Fif­ty pieces of Eight only for making of his wedding Shirt.

[Page 128]Their Beds are the worst that can be, stuft only with Wooll, and quilted down; their Sheets no larger than Ap­rons, but alwaies clean and white; the Frames of the Beds are made to fold up like an Old Woman's Stoole and to be remov'd from place to place: Of these, I have seen Twenty in a Room, set close one to another, which tho' it makes the Chamber look like an Hospital, yet we found it very so­ciable.

Next to their Beds, the greaest plague was that of the Musketoes, these are a small kind of Flies, which in the Night buzzes about your Face, and stings most intolerably: Strangers never fail of being markt with 'em the first Night they lie a Shore, which makes 'em in the Morning look as if the small Pox was broke out upon 'em: Some have fine Gawze Netts to keep 'em off, but that's very rare.

Curtains here are as scarce as a shade about Madrid on a Sunshiny Day, hardly any to be heard of: And all the while I lay a Shore, I met but [Page 129] with one Bed so provided: The in­sides of their Houses are unhung, un­less it be with Pictures, bare Walls being cooler, and the colour of these Walls is whiter than a Ladies Skin: They use no Chimneys, and rarely have their windows glaz'd; the two Reasons are, Glass is very dear, and very hot. The security of their Win­dows lies in the Iron Bars, before which they have a Lattice, which does as well as Glass.

The Spaniards are very Idle, and consequently much giv'n to Gam­ing: They know the use of Dice very well, but their chief Diversion is in Cards. Ombre is a Game as com­mon with them as Triumph is with us, but the difference that is in every thing between them and others, is even in this most provoking, that as all People upon Earth deal the Cards to the left, they deal to the right, and handle 'em a quite contrary way to us and every Body. And now we are upon this Subject, I have a fair occasion of reckoning up the differences [Page 130] of particular Humours between them and us.

And first in general, tho' we are parted but by a ridge of passable Hills; yet it wou'd seem, we live un­der a strange diversity of Constellati­ons, for even in the Actions of the Soul we are quite different, as well as in those of the Body: for the French Man is Active and Mercurial, the Spaniard Speculative and Satur­nine; the one Sociable and Dis­coursive, the other reserv'd, and full of Thought; the one so open, that you cannot hire him to keep a se­cret; the other so secret, that the Rack cannot force him to discover: Next in their Fashion and Apparel: The French go thin and open, as if there were continual Summer; the Spaniard so Wrapt and Cloakt, as if it were always Winter: The French Button downward, the other up­ward: The last constant to their Mode, the first more wavering than a Silk­worm: The French walk as fast as if they were running from an Arrest; [Page 131] the Spaniards as slowly, as if they were newly come out of quartan Agues: The French Parade in clusters; the Spaniards never walk above two: The French as Airy, as if they were galli­ardizing in the Street; the other as solemn, as if they were marching in a Procession. Whence this prodigious discord shou'd arise is very unaccount­able, whether by Antipathy, by E­mulation, of Derision, or whatever it is, there's not such another instance upon the Face of the Globe. I might have added, That the French walk with Swords no longer than Wo­man's Bodkins, and the Spaniards wear 'em so long, that their Rumps seem as if they were Spitted. I was alarm'd at this excessive length, and it was told me, That the standard for a Blade was four Feet, but the Cutler always adds another Foot, and then they're about as long again as ours: And because this great length makes 'em awkard and hard to be drawn, they have contriv'd for the better dis­patch of Execution, to have their Scabbards open from the Hilt to the [Page 132] Chape, as if it were no more than a Case, and the upper end is lock'd with a spring, which opens with a touch, and the too sides of the Scab­bard parting, the Instrument of Death comes forth. To this uncon­scionable measure of their Swords, they have likewise great skill in Fen­cing, but after another manner than ours, for as we keep a Guard even with our Breasts, they keep their's even with their Eyes, and the Arm a little bent at the Elbow, as ours is alwaies strait; and yet I seldom heard of Duels among 'em, but of Assassi­nations without number.

I am afraid, My Dear Brunet, of being too particular, lest I grow te­dious, or else I cou'd sit up a whole Winter's Night upon this one To­pick of Assassinating: Let it suffice instead of more, that there hardly passes a Day here when we don't here of some new Murder committed the Night before, and yet the Au­thors are never inquir'd after, or ne­ver punisht: This Scandalous con­tempt [Page 133] of the Law arises from the implacable desire they have of re­venging their injuries with their own Hands, and many times when a Court of Justice wou'd redress 'em, they Laugh at such a Proposal, and scorn to give away the opportunity of doing 'emselves right.

As to the Laws of Spain, I be­lieve they are very well Executed, where the Churches claim does not interfere with it; they have ma­ny Courts of Judicature, and the method of Prosecuting Business is easier than any where else, for often a Trial is call'd and de­termin'd before the parties know any thing of the matter. I take the Rule to be thus: The Merits of both sides are got ready, and enter'd into some inferior Office, deputed by the Chief, where Officers wait for such purpo­ses, and there being all that can be said by both Parties made out plain­ly, and what ever they can bring material, by their Witnesses, or any other Testimony summ'd up in order. [Page 134] The depositions are packt up in two Bags among a Thousand more, and so sent to Toledo, Sevil, or some other Court, where they are carefully ex­amin'd, and afterwards dispatch'd to their respective Countries, without sending for, or seeing the Parties or Witnesses.

In every House in Spain is the King's Picture, almost in equal vene­ration with the Virgin's and our Sa­viour's, tho' certainly he makes the worst Picture that ever I saw. His Face is Fair, Long, Lean, sunk in the Cheeks, sharp Chin, turning to­wards his Nose; his Nose Roma­niz'd, great Ears, and his Hair most frightfully tuck'd behind 'em: His Eyes are good, his Body small, and his Legs every where alike: I in­quir'd of his Disposition, and it was Answer'd, That he is infirm and apt to be disorder'd, That he is of an exceeding sweetness of Nature, fond of his People, Mild and a great Lo­ver of Jesting: No correct Politician, nor very studious of Politicks, chu­sing [Page 135] rather to rule by the indulgence of Nature, than the Maxims of Art: His Diversions are Comedies and Bull baitings; his Exercises, the great Horse and the Prayer Book, and his Dress the plainest in the Court: He Loves the Queen fondly, and She him, nor do the prejudices of their different Countries ever divide 'em, tho' sometimes the Factions of both sides are Clamorous. But the greatest unhappiness is, the want of an Heir, which tho' every Day Pray'd for, comes to nothing. This is an un­speakable Misfortune, and Ages yet to come may feel the Consequences of it.

Spain is crowded with as great num­ber of Men of Quality as any King­dom of Europe, excepting Poland, and with a Clergy of the best indow­ments in the World. And tho' the ordinary standing force of the King­dom is not so great as that of France, yet without question the King can raise incredible numbers when he is heartily put to it.

[Page 136]And because I wou'd not say any thing without a Reason, I believe it may be easy to prove that this King can produce as numerous Armies as the King of France, if he wou'd pur­sue the same Course. For,

First, Spain abounds with a great many idle fellows, who had rather Starve than Work, and being all fond of wearing Swords, they wou'd glad­ly take the Title of Souldiers, if the King gave 'em incouragement.

In the next Place: They are so well affected to their King, that if his Af­fairs requir'd their Lives, they wou'd stick at nothing to serve him; and so fond of their own Liberties, that if there were danger of losing them, no constraint of Estates or Families cou'd keep 'em from their Arms: A­gain, His Provinces (tho' not so well peopled as those of France) are infinitely more, and larger, and if as the Grand Seignior does, he were to Levy so many Men out of every Vil­lage by the proportion of Estates, [Page 137] the amount wou'd be prodigious; but as he never had occasion to make so great a Muster, so to ease his People, he sits at as little charge as he can; his frontiers being Man'd with few Regi­ments, and the inner parts of his Empire requiring none. To this pur­pose, was the answer of a Courtier to a Stranger, who seem'd to wonder at so small a Guard as the King kept about him, for when the Stranger de­manded, If that were all his Guard? The Answer was, Are not we all his Defenders? What need is there of more?

But the principal Augmentation of the Spanish Force, will arise from the assistance of the nobless, and the vast numbers they can bring of their Vassals and Dependants: And as this August Body Subsists entirely on the Crown by tenures of one kind or o­ther, so it is at the pleasure of the Crown to command 'em to service, when any urgency presses it; and their territories and revenues being so spatious, it is thought, the least [Page 138] Muster they can produce wou'd be a Hundred Thousand. Add to this, That the Clergy too, being for the most part feud a tory to the Crown, and bound (though not personally) to assist in the defence of the Realm, their produce must be very considera­ble. But as to the Noble Men, their Services are the more certain, because their Honours descend not de jure from Father to Son, unless confirm'd to the Son by the King's Acknowledgment and Compellation, which makes them more observant of him, than in France or England, where it is demanded as a Birth-Right; and because out of the gross Body of these Noble Men, the King honours some with the Ti­tle of Grandees, privileged to stand covered before him, which being the highest pitch of Grandeur the State can give, it keeps those great Ones in readiness to Obey his Pleasure, in hopes of being sometime call'd to it.

Here it must be confest, that the People of France are more Military, and that the King of France has a [Page 139] better Exchequer, and consequently his Armies are fuller; but consider, The King of Spain of late makes no Conquests abroad, and therefore is not necessitated to be always in Arms; and if his Exchequer be low, it is because he seldom Taxes, but slides on in Tranquility with his ordinary Intrado, and as well as he can, bears up, without oppressing his People: but if an unavoidable necessity threat­ens him, and he be forced to Arm as many as he can, 'tis beyond Con­troversy, That he can fill a Campaign to as great an extent as France, and saying That, I have comprehended any Kingdom in Europe. It may be subjoyn'd here, that his Country is naturally Strong, defended on one side by the Pyrenes, his shore every where guarded with good Forts, and the other side secur'd with difficult Approaches, good Garrisons, and the Warlike Nation of the Catalauns: So that upon the whole, his charge is very easy, which is a happiness to himself and his Subjects.

[Page 140]Of the Language of Spain, 'tis a comely Sonorous Majestick kind of speaking; 'tis generally the same all over the Kingdom, except in Biscay, where they still use their own Bar­barous Original: but every where else 'tis the same, only distinguisht in some remote Provinces, by idioms particular to every place; tho' in Ca­talonia and the contiguous Towns it is Corrupted into a sort of Langue­dock. It has a very near affinity with the Latin, the Roman Conquerors having here more than any where else, left their Language behind 'em. 'Tis not very hard to be learn'd, for foreseeing the usefulness of knowing it, I gave my self up to it, and in three Months I became so good a Proficient, that I understood every thing that was said.

But before I end this Miscellane­ous Letter, take as near as I can Collect, all the vast Kingdoms and Dominions that make up the Body of this Magnificent Empire. In Europe, there is Spain it self, of two Thousand [Page 141] five Hundred Miles Circumference: Ca­talonia, Naples, Millain and Flanders. In the Mediterranean, the Islands of Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, Majorca, Minorca, Yvica, and Fermentera. In the Atlantick, the Canaries, Madera, Cape Verde, and some other small Possessions. In the Oriental Seas, the Ladrones, Philip­pines and innumerable lesser Isles in America, almost the whole Continent, with the great Island of California; in Africa, Ceuta, Maragan, and several small Plantations in all the parts of the World; but there having been no Ac­count publisht of 'em since the defection of Portugal, the List is not so exact as I cou'd wish it, but enough has been said to prove that the Crown of Spain has a larger tract of Land than any Monarchy in the World, amounting to more than Thirty Seven Thousand Miles in circuit: and as his Domini­ons on Land are of so great extent, so on the Coasts he has Harbours of the greatest security from Storms, and Forts of invincible Defence against an Enemy. And certainly nothing can be more delightful than to Sail up [Page 142] the Mediterranean, almost every where in sight of Land; the Country of Spain yielding the finest Prospect of any upon the Face of Nature, which appears charming to the Ships that go by because of the colour of the Soil, the numbers of the Towns, and the Beau­ty of their Buildings, the Houses be­ing all Built of a white Stone, and so raised one above another, that every distinct House may be perceiv'd at a great distance; but this is not the Beauty of Spain alone, for all the Towns of Barbary are built in the same manner; above all, the love­ly Town of Algier, which without doubt for the bigness, is the most de­lectable Fabrick upon the Ocean.

I might here inlarge my Letter, by reviving the old Records, which talk so ostentatiously of the great Actions that have been perform'd in this Country by the Romans, but I have been too tedious already, and as I intend this but as a Postscript to my last, and have all along said very little of the History of the Country, 'tis time I shou'd pay my Compliment and bid you adieu.

[Page 143]But before I shut up, and while it is in my Head, let me ease my Spleen against two things which I abominate here; one is the most odoriferous Custom of Watring and Dunging the Streets with what comes out of their Close-Stools; and this they do in such an outragious manner, that I have seen the high Streets of several Towns pav'd in a Morning with that soft matter, and a Tide of Urine rolling down the Ken­nels: But what is most wonderful, by Noon all this is all gone, and not the least appearance of all that Filth that we saw when we rose: The Air is so incredibly fine, that it rarifies whatever it meets with to prey upon; and the Spaniards hold it a Physical prevention thus to furnish the street with Matter for that voracious Planet, lest it shou'd prey upon their own Carcasses.

The other Offence, is the universal use of Oyl in every thing they dress, which is so venomously bad that it in­fects the Air around: and this is alto­gether the Sawce the ordinary People have; so that for a whole Streets length you shall see no sky for the thick Fog [Page 144] that comes out of their Frying-Pans; and that makes such an intolerable stink that I don't know any thing more nauseous.

When I was discoursing of their Pride, I might ha' told you that I have seen a Smith at work upon a Horseshooe with a Sword at his Side, and a Dag­ger behind him: His Man held the Shooe, and the Master (who never works but upon pressing necessities) gave it the finishing Stroak. They hammer their Iron all cold, and that's the Reason that a Horse need be shod but three or four times a Year.

I might ha' said something of their Gravity, and by how many ridiculous Affectations they wou'd be thought reserv'd and demure, but I have been as good as my word in making this a mad Miscellany, and I hope you'll par­don the Confusion,

LETTER IV.

AT last I have the favour of yours, and the Account you send me, of the Great Exploits our Soveraign has Acted on the Continent, gave me Infinite Satisfaction. Certainly he's the greatest Monarch that ever came after Augustus, and if his Sea Expeditions had the same Success, there wou'd be nothing want­ing to Chronicle him, the first, in all the Annals of Glory. But alas! When I Reflect on the Insults these People his Enemies, have made on this side of his Dominions, I am strangely Mortify'd; for without Complementing their Power, it must be acknowledged, that they have an Invincible Navy, and 'tis happy for us, that our Harbours Pro­tected us from 'em, or there wou'd have been no safety from their Arms. The Fatal Defeat at La Hogue, is a bitter Evidence of this Truth, and I wish for the Glory of my King, we may never come so inopportunely into their Power again: What is there in the World but the Power of this Rival English Mo­narch, [Page 146] to Eclipse him? The Genius of that Prince is a Check to the Career of his Ambition; and tho' it never shall be said, that he can blot out the Ho­nours of France, yet give me leave to say, his Emulous Gallantries Interpose a Cloud of Darkness before 'em, and make 'em less Visible to Impartial Judg­es: But to my Business.

About the Latter End of April, we Sail'd from the Bay of Cales, and there being Occasion to send a Scout a Cruiz­ing, the General Order'd, that some of the Britania's Crew, shou'd be Ship'd Aboard Her, of which Number, I had the good Fortune to be One. This un­expected change pleas'd me, because I thought I shou'd see something more in a Cruizer, than by Remaining where I was; for the great Ships scarcely put in any where, while the Frigots are in con­tinual Employment, and I was not mistaken in my Opinion.

Being now Shipt anew, I shew'd my self very forward, in whatever was to be done, partly to get to my self a good Character, but chiefly that I might be in the Opportunities of seeing all Ad­ventures; we had not been long from the Fleet, e're we took a small Bark, and [Page 147] tho' this was no extraordinary Prize, yet it gave us occasion to put into Tan­gier, the only thing in the World that suited with my Curiosity. There be­ing a War between the English and the Moors, we durst not come in near the Shore, but Anchoring about a League without, we saw a Pinnace making to­wards us, under a White Flag; the Sig­nal of Peace. Immediately the Captain order'd his Barge to be Mann'd, and putting White Flag to be Hoisted; and putting a Lieutanant in Her, he Commanded him to meet the Tangerine, and Com­plement him in Civil Terms. The Lieu­tenant obey'd his Instructions, and be­ing Met, he deliver'd by an Interpreter, the Business of his Errand, and after Mutual Civilities they parted.

Soon after, a Gentleman from the Town, came aboard, with a Present to the Captain, of Mutton, Kid, and other Provisions, which he Returned in Eng­lish Glasses, Racking Bottles, and other Toyes, which were very acceptable to the Mahometans. They then Treated about the Prize, and she was Bought and Sold, in half an Hour.

The City of Tangier makes a fair Prospect to the Sea; It was Aban­don'd [Page 148] to Alphonso, K. of Portugal, in the Year 1471, after his Successes at Ar­zila, and has been ever since in their Pos­session, till Katherine had it for part of her Dowry, and it now being in the hands of the English, the Moors thought it easi­er to be recover'd, by being so far distant from it's Master; and accordingly they sell to Work under the Conduct of that Tempestuous General Gaylan; who after several Defeats which he Received, and the loss of his own Brother, at last Play'd the English so foul a Trick, that in an Ambuscade, which he made for the L. Tiveott, the English General, he cut to Pieces most of the Garrison, and the General himself. 'Tis Built on a Rising Ground, of White Stone, and seems to be well Fortify'd: The Hills on both Sides are Guarded with Walls, and before it is a Peer, Rebuilt by the Moors, after it was Demolisht by the English. You may remember this City was once in Possession of England, being part of the Dowry of the Sister of Portugal, who was Marryed to Charles the 2d, then King of Great Britain; but the continual As­saults of the Moors, kept 'em always in Alarm, and after a Thousand Skir­mishes, it was found too Great a Charge, [Page 149] for that Remote Island to be every Year sending Succours to releive it; and I am perswaded, that it is Impossible for any European Nation to be long Master of it, since the Provinces under the Em­peror of Morocco, are so much Improv'd in the Art of War, by those Instructions they have receiv'd by the French, who are at this Day in all their Camps. I need not say what Advantage it wou'd be to him if our Monarch had it in his Hands; for 'tis a better Curb to the passage into the Mediteranean, than any on the Spa­nish Shore; but I Prophecy, that whoso­ever undertakes to Besiege it, will be Losers by more then their Cost; and I doubt not but in time, those Moors will Recover the rest of their Country out of the Hands of the Spaniards; who are now Possest but of Ceuta, and Two more small Towns, of all the Coast which was once theirs.

And now I have mention'd Ceuta, let me say something of that, more than Trojan Siege; which has already lasted Six Years, and is like to Last as many more. I know the World has Lookt upon this Siege, with some Con­tempt, both of the Besiegers, and the Be­sieg'd; because in so many Years time, there is neither One way nor other, any [Page 150] Period put to't, neither the Town Con­quer'd by the Moors; nor the Moors beaten from before the Town: But let us see, if there may be an excuse made, for the slow Progress of the Moors, or the weak Defence of the Spaniards.

In the first place, the Camp of the Moors (according to what the Musters amount in general) never consists of more than 15000 Men, and they a Medley of Di­vers Nations, collected into that great Empire, who till of late knew nothing of the Modern way of Besieging. 'Tis true, the Engineers are mostly French, and whatever little Success they have already had, must be ascrib'd to them: I don't know if it be worth your Hear­ing, what the Current Opinion is con­cerning this Undertaking; but I have heard that the General, who has the Command of the Siege, had formerly committed some Unpardonable Crime, and it was given him in Choice, either to enlarge the City of Macchaness, the 2d Metropolis of the Empire, to Redeem Ceuta out of the Hands of the Spa­niards, or in the 3d place, to Forfeit his Head: Tho' I believe this to be a Fable, yet so much of it is True, that if the Ge­neral miscarries in his Design, his Head [Page 151] will be in good earnest Forfeited, to the Emperor's implacable Resentment: For he rarely Pardons any who fail of what they Undertake.

In the 2d place, the Kingdom of Moroc­co, is but very ill supply'd with Ammu­nition: We all know they wou'd be Bar­tring with all the Courts in Europe, for Arms, and other Necessaries of War; but 'tis not the Interest of any Christian King, to put into their Hands the Power of In­juring their Trade, and making Insults on their Coasts: So that they have little of Warlike Provision, but what they get from the Dutch, who will Traffick with any People for their own private Interests, tho' all their Neighbours are to Suffer for their Avarice. By this In­digency of Military Stores, it follows, that their Attempts in War must be less Vigorous. Besides this, the Garrison is strongly Fortify'd towards their Camp, and it being open at Sea, for Succours to be continually pour'd in, their Op­position of the Garrison must conse­quently be great, and their Sallies fre­quent and Numerous. To add to all this, Morocco is perpetually in War with the Re-publick of Algiers, and being a lit­tle Prest in that, they are less at leisure to regard this.

[Page 152]On the other Hand, if it be Objected to Spain, that they are too remiss, now they have little else to do, that they don't drive their Enemies from before their VValls, and Dislodge such a Con­fusion of Vagabonds, it may be answer'd, That, as they are but on the defensive, they have no more to do, but to prevent 'em from making any considerable Pro­gress; and tho' it wou'd be highly ne­cessary for their Honour and Interest, to Raise the Siege; yet the Exchequer of Spain is always kept so low, that they have hardly Mony to Pay their Soul­diers; and of course, the Work must go on with little Resolution: Besides, they who are sent thither, are for the most part such who are taken out of the Streets, and sent into the Service, and who must needs be a great while Train­ing up, and Disciplining, before they can be made fit for a Sally. The Governour is a Grandee of Spain, and a Gentle­man of Gallantry, but wanting a Force of Men and Mony to answer the Ne­cessities of so long a Siege, he is able to do little: His Lady is an English Wo­man, Sister to the present Duke of Nor­folk, the first Peer of that Kingdom; and when our Ship came before the [Page 153] Town, the Captain went ashore, and was entertain'd with a hearty welcome by her and her Lord. When the En­tertainment was over, the Governour took all the English Gentlemen, and shew'd 'em the Moorish Camp, & to do the K. of England Honour, in the Persons of those his Subjects, he caused to be planted on the walls the Royal Standard of Great Britain, which when the Moors saw, they wonder'd what it meant. The French could presently inform 'em what it was, and by that Signal, sup­posing there were English Strangers in the Garrison, they fell to Firing and Bombarding, as if now they were in a humour of taking the City by Storm, and soon made the Ramparts too hot for the Curiosity of the Beholders. Then they fell to't Pell-mell, both from the Garrison and Camp, and this Fury lasted on both sides, all that Night, and part of the next day, and for se­veral hours sailing we heard 'em still at it. Ceuta was taken by the Portuguese in the year 1415, and was annex'd with the rest of the Dominions of the Crown of Portugal, to the Monarchy of Philip the Second of Spain; but [Page 154] when Portugal recover'd her self out of her Usurper's Power, most of her Colo­nies abroad deserted the Spanish Yoke, except this Garrison, and some Islands in the Atlantick and Eastern Seas.

Next morning we join'd the Fleet, and we who had been remov'd, were now restor'd to our own Ship.

After some days Sailing, we came up to Barcelona, where we all Anchored; And now the Catalauns began to treat us like Friends; for as soon as we ar­riv'd before the City, we were saluted with all the Guns, and they were an­swered with as many of ours. The Vice-roy, who was the Marquess de Leganez, came Aboard us, with a con­siderable Pomp of Barges and Equipage, and the General receiv'd him with great satisfaction: At his debarquing, he was complemented with all the Guns of the English Fleet, except of one Squa­dron, who (for some private Reason) did not fire: The next day he visited the Dutch Admiral, and at his Depar­ture was saluted with all their Guns.

The City of Barcelona is the Capital of the Kingdom of Catalonia, an anci­ent City, it being formerly called Bar­sino, and then a Roman Colony, inha­bited [Page 155] by a more industrious People than the Spaniards; for here they are all em­ploy'd in one Occupation or other; and though the King favours 'em with lar­ger Privileges than any other of his Dominions, yet 'tis with much diffi­culty they are kept in their Allegiance: The Reason of this is, because the Po­wer of Spain can't preserve 'em from the Invasions of the French, who are their near Neighbours, and upon every opportunity, molest 'em in their Trade. This Country has at all times been ve­ry apt for Mutinies, and Popular Com­motions, being as nearly related to the French, by the disposition of their Hu­mours, as they are by their Scituation; and to prevent 'em from revolting, the King caresses 'em with great Immuni­ties, and when that fails, he has a stand­ing Force to awe 'em into Subjection.

In this City, there are (as near as I can remember) about 30 Monasteries of both Sexes, well endow'd besides some Churches, and a Cathedral of great Ostentation. The Vice-king's Pa­lace is a large plain Structure, neither well built, nor well furnish'd, tho' the Spanish Historian Mariana commends it highly, tho' he never saw it; it stands [Page 156] at the side of a great Square, which is the Parade of the Militia: The other Buildings are high and fair, and the Shops of the Citizens display a great deal of Wealth. 'Tis here, that the Gallies of Spain are laid up, there being an excellent Mole to shelter 'em from ill Weather, and convenient Houses to lay 'em up in the Winter. At this time all the Galleys, as well of Scicily as Spain, were together; and it must be confest, spite of all Detraction, that the King of Spain is well provided with such sort of Navigation: These Galleys are sump­tuously deck'd, and carry one with a­nother between 50 and 60 Oars, mann'd with four Slaves each, who are chain'd to their Seats, and stript to the Skin. I believe there might be about 30 in all, which being together, side by side, made a fine shew, and surpriz'd us with plea­sure, when we turn'd short into the Mole to go ashore. The Command of these Vessels is held superior to the Command of Men of War, and the Captain of each is a Man of Quality, and the General, a Duke.

On the Shore, before the Mole, the Nobility and Gentry of the City (which are very numerous) take the [Page 157] Air every Evening, where one may see at one time a 100 Coaches lin'd with the Beauty of the Country, whom the Cavaliers wait upon on Horse-back, and gallant with more than Spanish Gallan­try. The City is wall'd round, and mounted with brass Canon, formerly in such a Number, that there were rec­kon'd above 300 round the Works, but there are not half so many now, the rest having been taken down by some of the former Vice-roys, who represent­ed to the King, that they were disabled and unfit for Use, tho' in reality they were very good, and so converted 'em to their own Advantage. The M. de L— has been a Notorious Offender this way, and when he was depos'd from his Go­vernment, he feign'd himself mad, to elude the Examination they were go­ing to make, and so escap'd an Account.

There is not in the world better Ar­tillery than is in the Dominions of the King of Spain, and this is so strong a Temptation to the covetous Gover­nours, that they are every year dimi­nish'd under one Pretence or other, and put into their Pockets. What can be a greater Demonstration of the Remis­ness of the Spanish Government?

[Page 158]After some little stay here, the Fleet weigh'd, and stood to the East-ward, their design being to Bombard Toulon, or Marselles, and to burn the Ships: It was (my Friend) good sport to me, to see 'em go about a Project which was like to cost 'em so much trouble to so little purpose. I knew it would be in vain to attempt any thing against either of those Harbours; and I was well pleas'd to find they had contriv'd an Expedition, which wou'd turn to their own Disgrace. Soon as we reacht the Latitude of Toulon, there was an Order for all the Long Boats, and Pin­naces, to be Arm'd, and the Rear Flag of Red, was Hoisted Aboard a 3d Rate, to Conduct this Diminutive Armado, with­in the Isles of Hieres; but before this was put in Execution, a small Frigot was sent in to Spie the Condition of the E­nemy, who made a quick Return, ha­ving with much ado, escaped the Gal­leys, who were sent after Her, and Re­ported to the General, that it was Im­practicable to Attempt any thing there, the Harbour being Lin'd with invinci­ble Forts, and a Stout Resistance provi­ded round the Shore: This Disappoint­ment Gall'd 'em shrewdly, but then [Page 159] turning their Design towards Marselles, the General Detacht other Frigots, to Discover where it was most conveni­ent to Enter, who came back with the same Account they had done from Tou­lon; adding, that they were every where so Impregnable, that twou'd be but to Sacrifice their Ships, and their Lives to Assault 'em.

Thus being on all sides prevented, we with-drew further off, and Cruiz'd off the Isles; when a Furious North-West Blew us quite out of Sight of Land, and put us to a Necessity of Shifting for our Safety. This Storm continu'd for a Fortnight, and was so Violent, that the Birds were blown from Shore, and came to Rest their Weary Wings, on the Decks, and Rigging of our Ships. These Poor Creatures were Grown so Tame, with Famine, and Fateigue, that it was an easy matter to take 'em with our Hands; and there was hardly a Ship that had not Quails, and Turtle-Doves, sit­ting on their Yards. The Tempest con­tinuing still Obstinate, and the Sea Run­ning High, as it always does in the Gulph of Lyons, at length it was De­termin'd to stand before it, and Steer for the Island of Sardinia; there was a [Page 160] Necessity for this, for we began to want Water extreamly; and in few daies Ar­riving there, we Anchor'd in an open Road, within four Leagues of Cagliari. Here we found a Fresh Stream, that Supply'd us immediately; and when we had been a while at an Anchor, the Country Peasants brought down Pro­visions in such Plenty, that now all the Marriners Fed upon Fresh Meat.

Sardinia, is an Island near adjoining to Corsica, opposite to the Re-publick of Genoa, and the Dukedom of Tuscany; the People of both Islands are Account­ed Barbarous, but we found 'em quite otherwise, unless we Value their Ca­pacities by the Good Bargains we made, and count 'em Fools because they Sold us Good Penny-worths: They are in­deed Notoriously Ignorant, and Super­stitious, but far from being such Savages as they are Accounted in History; and unless the Character belongs to the En­glish, who Riffled and Pillag'd the Poor Wretches, I don't know of any Bar­barity I saw while I was abroad. The English, to give 'em their Due, are ex­quisite at that sort of Mischief; for when they had any of those Poor Crea­tures in their Power, they made no Con­science [Page 161] of Plundering them of what they had and turning 'em loose to Na­kedness and Beggarly. I'le give you one Instance of this Kind, because I wou'd not fix a Scandal on a People without good Reason; and that is thus.

Two Souldiers having got Leave to go a Shore, under pretence of Buying Fresh Provision, bethought 'em selves of a Cheaper way of being Supply'd, than by their Mony, and Marching up into the Country, came to a Poor Pea­sant's House, who Liv'd Far from Neigh­bours, an Honest, Simple VVretch, who Fed and Clothed himself with the Pro­fits of his own Industry, and kept a­bout his House all that he was worth in the VVorld: It was this Poor Man's Unhappiness to be at Home, when those Stroalers entred his House without any Ceremony, who seeing a strange People within his Doors, Imagin'd 'em to be some of the English, who, he had heard, were come into their Country, and de­signing to Treat 'em with what he had, he offer'd 'em the Bounty of his House, sparing nor Meat, nor Wine, nor any thing that cou'd express his Satisfaction of seeing 'em there: After he had given them of what he had, and they had Glut­ted [Page 162] with all sorts of Plenty, he loaded 'em with Fruits and other Good things, and Offer'd 'em what Accommodation he cou'd make for their Lodging, if they wou'd be so kind as to stay with him that Night: They likeing well their Entertainment, thought this was a good Opportunity to Enrich themselves, and making their way up stairs in a Riotous manner, they amazed the unwary Land­lord, who cou'd not guess what they meant by Running up and down, in such Tumultuous Hast: But The Poor amazed fellow, who saw himself going to be Undone by these Rogues, made what Opposition he cou'd to hinder 'em, and as he Struggled, and Pray'd, that they wou'd offer him no Violence, one of the Villains with his Dagger, Stabb'd him to the Heart, and laid him Dead at his Feet; and when they had committed that Execrable Deed, they Stripp'd the House bare, and marcht away with the Spoils of their Villany. This Bloody Action was afterwards made known to the Vice-Roy, who Demanded Justice of the General; the General making inquiry after the Criminals, found 'em out, and Sentenc'd the Principal to Death: When this was Reported to [Page 163] the Vice-Roy, he Desir'd no greater Satis­faction than to see 'em Condemn'd; and being a Man of Generosity, himself in­terceded for their lives, only desiring they might be made sensible of their Crimes, but that they might not be Ex­ecuted. The General with some Re­gret, granted his Request, but wou'd not let the Murderers yet know what had been determin'd; so appointing a day for the Execution of the Principal, and the Punishment of the other after the Military manner, they were drawn out under a Strong Guard, and a Batta­lion was Commanded ashore to attend the Execution: And now behold a turn, and the Justice of Providence on the Guilty Malefactor. The Ruffian who gave the Fatal Blow, was pinnion'd, and upon his Knees ready for Death, which he was to receive from a File of Mus­kets, drawn out for that Purpose; and his Companion plac'd close by him to Suffer the Terror of his Execution: He who Headed the Battalion, and carry'd the Pardon in his Pocket, gave Orders that the Musketeers shou'd not Fire, till he made the Signal; but that all the Ceremony shou'd be made to Terrifie him a while with the Prospect of his [Page 164] Death; the Lieutenant who had charge of the File, knew nothing of the Par­don, but supposing he was to be Shot, according to his Sentence, gave the Signal for Firing, without asking any further Direction; and in a Moment the Murderer was Torn to Pieces. Judge now my Friend of the Precipitancy of these English, but chiefly of the Divine Justice, that wou'd not let such a Noto­rious Offender Escape the Punishment of his Blood-shed. The other Delin­quent was Punisht at the same time, tho' not by Death, and the Blood of the Murder'd Peasant so far atton'd: The Officer who Commanded the File, was Broke for his Rashness, and the Colo­nel that shou'd have taken more care, was made Prisoner, but soon afterwards Releas'd.

The City of Cagliari is the chief of the Island, exceeding strong, and the Seat of the Vice-Roy; this formerly was accoun­ted so Noble a City, when Gracchus took it for the Use of the Romans, that Florus, by way of Excellency, call'd it Ʋrbs Ʋr­bium, tho' afterwards it was demolisht by the same Gracchus, to disable the Na­tives; but in more settl'd times it was Re-built, and a second time Taken by [Page 165] the Saracens, and at last restor'd by the Pisans to it's Primitive Lustre. I never in all my Life, saw so plentiful a Market as here, nor every thing Sold at so cheap a Rate; a dozen Chickens might be bought for a Shilling, a Kid for 2, a Mut­ton for 4, and a Beef for a Pound, all ex­cellent in their kind. It was evident, this proceeded from the Scarcity of Mony among 'em, as well as from the plenty of the Market; for the ordinary People were so little conversant in Money, that they hardly knew the different Species of Coyn. Yet here, as well as in Spain, 'twas easy to discover the Natural Pride that is in all, who have any Relation to the Crown; and one unanswerable sign of it, is, that notwithstanding their won­drous Simplicity, their Poverty, and abject Condition, they esteem 'emselves beyond the Spaniards, in Riches and Power: and as in Spain, the Natives of Galicia, value 'emselves above all the provinces of the Kingdom; so here, they triumph over the Galicians, in the same degree of self-destinction. But certainly nothing can be more ridicu­lous than this Vanity; for there's not the least pretence for such a Comparison, not even in the Fruitfulness of their [Page 166] Country, which is their chief Glory; for tho' their Corn Harvests are very suc­cesful, and they swarm with variety of all Living Food, yet they are so unlearn'd and ignorant in Commerce, that their Neighbours on all sides fetch away their Commodities for half the Value, & leave the inhabitants, nothing but the disgrace of being cheated, and ready to Starve in the midst of Plenty.

One thing I observ'd, from the top of a Steeple, which was very remarkable; 'twas a lake of about a mile in circum­ference, which the Sun seem'd to have diminisht from twice that Compass, and to have candy'd all the edges round it into an excellent white Salt: I enquir'd of our Guide, if the City made use of the Salt, but he told me, that the Phy­sicians held it to be unwholsome, and for­bad the eating it, under the Penalties of Fluxes, and Feavers; but that indeed the better reason was, that there were several salt Works in the Town, and twou'd be a fatal disappointment to the Proprietors of these Works, who paid dear for their Licences, if this were used, and that the Physicians were in Fee to Cry it down. I was satisfy'd with the latter Reason, knowing the [Page 167] first to be a fiction; for what cou'd there be of malignity in this Lake, more than in that Rock of Salt, a little to the East­ward of Barcelona, which was so Fine, and White, that the General himself used no other at his Table?

The great Church here, is very Old, and very Stately; the outside and Roof, seem'd to me like the Musaeum in Oxford, and because I had once seen that in my Ramble thro' England, I gaz'd at this with the greater delight. The rest of the sacred Buildings are less magnificent than in Spain; but beneath all, the Roy­al Palace is the most humble Piece of Grandeur (If you'll pardon the Solecism) that I ever saw. 'Twas Large, tis true, but in no other respect, suitable to the Pride of such a People; for a private Gentleman of France, wou'd be asham'd to have such a House, accounted the Seat of his abode, or indeed of his Re­tirement. Some half a score ragged tawdry fellows, are the Vice-Roy's Guard; and these so miserable, that the English Sailors made sport of 'em, when they wou'd hinder 'em from Entering. But to make amends for our disappointed Curiosity, we found the Vice-Roy, a Gen­tleman of so much Courtesy, that there [Page 168] was not the least appearance in him of that sullen Pride, which is natural to the Spaniards, tho' he was a Spaniard Born, and Educated in the Court, the Original of all Vanity. He liv'd in no manner of Majesty, which for his sake we Lamented, and thought it pity a Man of such Merit, shou'd not enjoy all the Honours of his Place, and we heartily wish'd him better Fortune. I don't know how to urge it upon him, for a weakness that which he did out of an excess of affability, and good Nature: I must own I did think it beneath the dignity of so exalted a Station, to do what he did, but as he did not seem to want sence to know his Distinction, and the quality of his Royal Office, so it must be understood the Effect of complacency to Gentlemen of a Forreign Nation which was in alliance with his Master. The thing I speak of was this, That when some English Officers came ashore, he sent his Coaches to bring 'em up to his Palace, where He himself stood ready to receive 'em, I my self was one of the retinue, and saw every thing that past. When they were within the House, he accosted 'em one by one, and the first civilities being over, he led 'em him­self [Page 169] from Room to Room, quite through­out the Palace, Naming, by parti­culars, what every Apartment was, omitting only that, where his women were, which was not open. This, and other Condescensions of the same Nature, was, what lookt very odly to the English. But if we consider the Satisfaction that must arise to him, by seeing strangers in his Government, who were come to defend his Master's Coun­try, and the few opportunities he had of conversing with any but his own People, we can't blame him for the Pleasure he took in serving 'em.

The Women here are in no Com­parison with them of Spain, they have indeed in their Conversation, a freedom more engaging than the Spanish Ladies have; but even in that they are so awkard, that a Man of ordinary Gal­lantry, wou'd hardly find an inclination for an amour with 'em. The Women of Spain, tho' they are in Publick more Reserv'd, have yet Infinite Charms, to make amends for the Toil of coming at 'em; and as they are very Beautiful (I mean the better sort, for the rest are all Gipsies) so they have such an insinuating Wit, that a Man of intriegue, may be [Page 170] exceedingly delighted with 'em. But the Sardinians are the most stupid Jades in the World, not, I believe, that they want a Force of Inclination equal with others, but they want that address to set off, and to engage the Hearts, as well as the Persons of their Lovers, which the Spanish Ladies excel in.

After the Fleet had Water'd, they prepar'd for their return Down: In the Night we past between the Isles of Ma­jorca and Minorca, and before the shut­ting in of the Evening, we made the Land, and it appear'd so like that of Catalonia, that we thought we had been upon the Continent sooner than we ex­pected; but finding our selves here, some were of opinion, we had Steer'd a wrong course. Next Day we reacht Barcelona, and now it was talkt of, as if here we were to take up our Winter Quarters; at least, that the Four Regi­ments which we brought from England, shou'd quarter here with the 7000 Ger­mans we took in at Final. I had forgot to tell you, that it had been agreed by the Confederate Princes, to lay Siege to some French Garrison in Catalonia, and to that end, 7000 Germans were detacht from the Armies on the Rhine, under [Page 171] the Command of the Prince of Hesse, to joyn the English and Spanish, who were already in the Field, in the Lea­guer of some important place; which afterwards prov'd to be Palamos: The Germans being arriv'd at Final, some English and Dutch Transports were sent to take 'em in; and when they joyn'd the Fleet, the Galleys were order'd out of the Mole to attend us, and to carry ashore such who were to disembark.

At this time there was an Order for some of the great Ships to be sent back to Cales, and there to Joyn others who were cast for England, and together to make the best of their way home: The remaining part of the Fleet Steer'd for Palamos, and being come before it, the Army landed, and joyned the Spaniards, who were about 18000 Horse and Foot: The Germans being 7000, and the Eng­lish 4000, when they were together, they made up a Considerable Body. The French were about the same Number, and hearing that the Enemy intended to Besiege Palamos, they marcht their Ar­my within Sight of the Town, and of the Confederates. Both Armies now being in view of one another, seem'd to Watch each other for the Rising Blow, [Page 172] but neither caring to Fight, the Town was invested, and the Siege begun. I need not acquaint you with the general Story of the Siege, without question you have Read it in the Prints, but I can't for­bear telling what a hideous sight this Spanish Army was: They had about 4000 Horse, which was their only Ser­viceable Body; for the Foot was the most Miserable rout of Vagabonds, that ever took the Field. They had neither Cloaths, Arms, nor Provision; the English out of Compassion supply'd 'em with what they wanted, but they made no use of any thing but the Food. A­mong such a Number, there were not 1000 Tents in all, but the greatest part of 'em lay on the parcht Earth without any Covering but the Heavens. How­ever, with the Germans and the English, the Siege was carry'd on, and in 5 days, even in sight of their own Army, the French quitted the Garrison, and dis­mantled all the Works.

There being nothing more to do, the English embarkt again with the loss of half a Score Killed, and about 40 Wounded; tho' they Sustain'd the Fire of the Garrison, and were the principal cause of it's desertion; when we returned [Page 173] to Barcelona, we heard the Camp was broke up, not without a Battle which the French forc't upon the Spaniards, in which, as the Spaniards themselves report, they had the better; and you may be sure there was nothing wanting to Celebrate the pretended Victory with the greatest Ostentation. It was a Deplorable Spectacle, afterwards to see those Naked Wretches come home, without Cloaths, or Arms, and almost Famisht with Hunger: And tho' it may be suppos'd, the Infantry had but a small Share in the Fight, yet they spar'd not to give out, that they alone had defeated the French, and overthrown all the Glory of France down to the Ground.

The Prince of Hesse, at his entring Bar­celona, had all the Honours that were due to his Character and great Services; and afterwards for a Reward of his Signal Performances, was possest of the Vice-Ro­yalty of that Kingdom. But the Catalauns (who are an uneasy People) grew Emu­lous of his Power, and were busy to Pre­judice him, in the Favour of the Court, and to mis-represent him; which they did at last, with such Success, that he had much ado to preserve his Govern­ment, but that he had a Party at Court, [Page 174] and the Queens Inclination to support him, and even with all his address, he had much ado to keep himself upright, against the frequent Complaints of the Catalonians, and the Kings Indulgence to 'em.

The Fleet now Steer'd for the Straits Mouth, and when they were opposite to Algier, the Dutch Squadron, which was alwaies to Wind-ward, saw two Ships of that Republick, which stood into the Fleet, to pay their Complement to the English General, his Country being at Peace with the Re-publick, but the Dutch at War: After they remain'd one Day and Night among us, they Salu­ted and were dismist. The Dutch Ad­miral seeing an opportunity of two such considerable Prizes, made the Sig­nal for two of his Men of War to give 'em Chase; who with some difficulty came up with 'em, and brought 'em to their Fleet. The English General was highly exasperated at his breach of Dis­cipline and Hospitality; he knew that as the Dutch were absolutely under his Command, that this was an in­solence he could not Pardon, and that the Admiral might know he resented such an Affront, he sent an Officer to [Page 175] order him to release 'em, but the Obsti­nate Churl refus'd, returning in answer, that they were the Enemies of his Country, and that he wou'd keep 'em. The General having more Consideration than to use any means of Violence, be­came his humble petitioner, and in the Language of Humility, besought him, that as they had put 'emselves into his Protection, and came but with a design to pay their friendship to the King of England, that he wou'd suffer 'em to pass unmolested, and that he wou'd answer it to the States, his Masters: So after much Intreaty they were dis­charg'd.

Almost such another Punctilio of Ho­nour was disputed between the French Envoy at Algier, and the Captain of an English-man of War, who was sent there to renew the Peace between En­gland, and that Re-publick; for when the Man of War arriv'd, which was a Ship of 70 Guns, the Envoy told the Dey she was but a Frigot, and that all the Ships of England were no better: The Captain hearing how the Dey had been abus'd, waited on him, and told him the Envoy had imposed upon him; and for his satisfaction, begg'd that he [Page 176] would do him the Honour of his pre­sence Aboard her: The Dey consent­ed, and after a splendid Entertainment, the Captain took him to view her all over, and the Dey in his own Person counted all her Guns one by one, and found 'em, as the Captain had told 'em, 70. When he saw the Deceit, he was enrag'd at the Envoy, and at his Return, sent for him in the presence of the Captain; and being come, the Dey, with his open Hand, hit him over the Face, spit at him (which are the high­est Marks of Infamy in these Countries) and turn'd him out of Doors. I had at first some Suspition of the Truth of this Story, but when I heard, that it was carry'd to France, and that our King Re­sented, and threatned to Revenge it, it was no longer to be doubted. I was extreamly mortify'd at this pitiful shift of our Envoy's, and am heartily sorry his Zeal made him so indiscreet: Our Master has no need of such impostures, and if he had punisht his Minister in­stead of menacing the Dey, his Justice had been more commendable. Our Passage down was now a delight, we kept near the Shore, and had the Pleasure of beholding the Country all the way we [Page 177] Sail'd: From a wonderful distance, we perceiv'd the Hills of Granada, alwaies cover'd with Snow, tho' they lay in the Hottest Region of Europe.

In Murcia, is the City of Cartagena, first Built by Asdruball of Carthage, as a receptacle, for Men and Mony, ar­riving from Africk; Scituate in a Pen­insula, but so impregnably Fortify'd in the time of Scipio, that but for a Stra­tagem he wou'd never have taken it: Memorable likewise for the Piety of that General, who wou'd not see those Spanish Beauties, which were presented to him, least they shou'd betray him to Incontinency. By Constantine it was made the chief City of the Province, which took its Name from it; but this not being intended for a History, I have done. 'Tis now a Populous and Beau­tiful City, well Fortify'd, and has a good Harbour. I shou'd have mention'd Alicant in the Kingdom of Valentia, famous for the Wines it sends to all Parts. Over this City is a Castle on the Top of a Prodigious High, and Steep Hill; 'tis a hard Journey to't, if you set out at Noon, as we did, and when you are in it, you meet with very little to reward your Labour: the only thing I [Page 178] Remember worth Writing, is, that at our going in, our Company were stript of their Swords, but had them restor'd at their going away; this Caution may be necessary, for twou'd be no difficult mat­ter, for half a Dozen Brisk fellows to roll the Garrison down the Hill. At the bottom of this, stands that Celebrated Place, well known to the English Sailors, by the Name of Mount-Whoredom, and it well deserves such an Epithite; for there is not such another spot of Ground in Europe, for all manner of Pollutions. Lower down, lies Malaga, and Velez Ma­laga, the first (not to mention the Hi­story) is a Town of great Traffick for Almonds, Raisins, and the Wines of that Name: 'Tis a Rich, Populous, and Strong Place, full of all Nations, but especially of English, whose Merchan­dize is its chief Reputation: The latter is still Famous, for being in the Neigh­bourhood of those Hills, where there is a small remnant of the old Moors, who still speak the Arabick Language; from those hills may be seen the whole course of the Straits of Gibralter, the Cities of Ceuta and Tangier in Africk. Next we come to Gibralter, formerly Heracela, Built by Hercules, at the very [Page 179] entrance into the Mediterranean, a small Town, but very Strong, of little or no Commerce; the English Consul here being in Deputation from him of Ma­laga: Here the Sea is so narrow, that 'tis a common thing for the Moors from Africk, to cross and Land in the Night, and carry a way whole Villages into Slavery. On the point of the Calpe, one of the Fa­bulous Pillars of Hercules, stands a little Chappel, sacred to all Catholicks who sail by, who alwaies Salute it with their Guns, because it is the most Westerly in Europe.

I'll Close this Letter with acquaint­ing you, That after a Pleasant Voyage, we arriv'd at Cales, where we were Welcom'd after a more grateful manner than ever, and where nothing was to be heard, but Universal applause of the General, for the whole Series of this Summers Expedition; Health and long Life to him, and Prosperity to the Arms of England, remaining, in the Sincerest manner,

LETTER V.

THE Winter being again our long Vacation, I began to indulge my [...]elf in all the Pleasures so much leisure might afford me. The first undertaking I had, was to Ride to St. Lucar, in com­pany with my old Friend, the French Merchant, who had an acquaintance in that place: But before I wou'd under­take my Journey, I wou'd make my Comrade promise, to Club for a Calash, having had enough of their Pack-sad­dles, and Mules, in my ramble to Xeres: I found no difficulty in perswading him, I sound much more to prevail with him, to let me bear half the Charge, in which I wou'd not be deny'd. I had not rid one of the 4 Leagues, we were to goe, but the dam'd Calash was so un­easy, that I cou'd not chuse but think of the death of being broken on the Wheel: Certainly next to the Wheel, there is no Rack on Earth, like this sort of Carriages; but tho' our Calash was the Devil, our Mules were swift, [Page 181] which in an Hour and a half, ran us to St. Lucar, which was four long Leagues, and the end of our Stage.

St. Lucar was the Templum Luciferi of the Ancients, from the Temple of Venus which stood there, that Star be­ing sometimes called Lucifer, and of later years very famous for being the Port belonging to Sevil, where that Wonder of Cities, loaded and unload­ed all her Bullion which came to her from America. But since Cales has got the Ascendant of Sevil in her Trade, she is mightily decay'd, and consequent­ly this Town, which sits upon the Chan­nel that goes up to't, is proportionably lessen'd: Not that 'tis now poor, or ill built, but as formerly she was so large, that she contended for the place of the Second City in Andaluzia, so we now wonder there shou'd be so little to shew for all that Boast which she made in the fulness of her Glory. It is still a good Town, and has daily Intercourse with Cales and Sevil by its Barco Longo's, which pass every Tide between the two great Cities, and is indifferently sup­ported by this Second-hand Trade: The Governour has a stately House scituate on a Hill, almost inaccessible, that looks [Page 182] all over the Town, the River, and the Country, almost as high as Sevil. Here are but few Monasteries, but those ve­ry well built, and richly endow'd: A­mong 'em is a little College, erected for the English Refugees, and dedicated to St. George. The Foundation of this Col­lege, is just as Ancient as what the En­glish call the Reformation; that is, as their Apostacy from the Catholick Church, and was laid for the Recepti­on of those persecuted Catholicks, who fled for their Religion in the Reign of that Scourge of the Catholick Faith, Queen Elizabeth.

At this time there were but three Fa­thers in't, but they live the better for their being so few, having all the Re­venues in their own disposal. We saw but little here to please our Curiosity, unless you'll esteem this one, that tho' the Fathers were Englishmen; born and bred in England, yet by so long a dis­use of their own Language, they had almost forgot to speak it; and when I wou'd have talk'd to 'em in their own Tongue, they answer'd in Spanish, and were not to be got out of that Lan­guage into their own. In my many Conversations with these Religious, I [Page 183] had more than once met with such an Adventure before; particularly after I had seen the Carthusian Monastery at Xeres, I went into the Town to visit an English Nun, who had been much fam'd for her Beauty: She indeed de­serv'd that Character which was given her, for I never saw any thing more Charming. Her Name was Philippa Ward, Daughter to an eminent Mer­chant of that Name, who liv'd at Pu­erto desancta Maria, and in her Infancy had put this Girl into this Convent: When I found this fair Creature so a­greeable, I devoted to her all my spare hours, while I remain'd in that Town, and at other times, when I cou'd be spar'd from my Attendance on Ship­board.

I found her in every respect so Char­ming, that it was a Violence to take my self from her: And to this very day, I feel such a tenderness for her that I never think of her without Pleasure. This Beautiful Maid had in her first prattling days, learnt the English Tongue perfectly well, her Father's Family had generally English Servants in't, and while she was at home it was impossible for her to forget the Language of her [Page 184] Parents, but she no sooner went into the Nunnery, and associated with those of another Tongue, but she left off her own, and in some Years after, so intirely forgot it, that when I went to see her, she hardly knew how to pronounce her own Name after the English Accent. And now I have mention'd this poor Creature, suffer me to digress a little, to ease my spleen of those resentments, which every generous Man ought to have against the usage commonly practis'd in the dedication of these young Women to Monastick lives.

If a family be over loaded with Chil­dren beyond the Father's Capacity of preferring, the youngest are Sacrific'd to Cloysters, at an age wherein they are not able to understand what they are to undergoe. This Lady was a deplorable instance of that sort of Cruelty: Her Father dy'd when she was young, and there being other Children elder than she, the Estate was divided among them, and but a Competency for this to intro­duce her into the Monastery, with some inconsiderable allowance for her Life, intrusted in the hands of her Uncle, her Father's Brother, who as she told me her self, lives now in London; but [Page 185] the Condition of the Will ran thus, That if she shou'd survive her Brothers and Sisters, that then all their several Fortunes to descend upon her, and this Uncle to take it into his hands, and to see it paid: When she first was put into the Nunnery, she was but 5 Years of age, in her 6th her Father dy'd; and before she was 12, she was the only Survivor of of all his Family: She now having a Title to the whole, apply'd her self to her Uncle for her ample fortune; but soon as the rest were Dead, he seiz'd all into his own hands, and came away into England, and 'twas in vain to re­quire the performance of her Father's Will, from one whose temper was not to do her Justice. In short, he cajol'd the Abbess with bribes, to wheedle the un­happy Girl to remain in the Convent, and while the Abbess on one side was inchanting her with Stories of that bles­sed kind of Life, the Uncle on the other side, trifled her out of her hopes of her due; so that at length, when it was pro­pos'd if she wou'd profess for good and all, she seeing no likelihood of receiv­ing her Fortune, took the habit, and devoted her self forever to the Monastery. After this, it was impossible to think of geting out, and he being now secure [Page 186] that she wou'd never trouble him more, enjoy'd her Estate, and lives upon't to this day. To such an extreamity was she at last reduc'd, that even her small annuity was stopt, and she liv'd with no other subsistence but that of the House, and about 4 l. Sterling Yearly, allow'd her by one Malbrank a charitable English Merchant in Cales. In this Con­dition she was when I came acquainted with her, and when she told me this Melancholy Story, I cou'd not chuse but suffer with her in her misfortunes. So great was my concern for her, that tho' I knew the danger of taking her out of the Convent, yet a Thousand times I importun'd her to trust her self with me, and I wou'd have run the hazard of my Life for her deliverance, if she wou'd have consented, but 'twas too bold an undertaking for her, and all my prayers were lost.

I expect it will here be objected, that no body is compell'd to take the habit: but when the time of profession is ap­pointed, the Person who is to profess, is at liberty to stay or goe; but of how little advantage is this liberty, when the poor Victims have been spoil'd of their Fortunes, and Nurs'd up in a superstitious Faith of the Sanctity of a Religious Life, [Page 187] which wants no allurements to make it grate­ful during the time of the Noviciate? Not but that I know several who have, after a long abode in a Nunnery, releas'd 'emselves again, particularly a Dutch Woman in Cales, who liv'd 45 Years there, came out and was marry'd. But these are such who have no Estates to Tempt their covetous Guardians to keep 'em in, and are of so little account, that the matter was not much what became of 'em. Thus far I have digrest — but to re­turn to my company—

From St. Lucar, I was perswaded to take a tour to Sevil, the chief City, not only of this Province, but of all the Kingdom, for Beauty, buildings and antiquity. And here I found Entertainment for my Eyes, and every Sence I had; for in all my life I never saw any thing pleas'd me more. Paris, Lyons, and Roan, and 20 such places afford not such variety of won­ders. Not but that I had heard and Read much of its Fame, which did in some mea­sure prepare me for what I was to expect, but I found it all infinitely short of the Truth, as much as they, who drawn by the great Re­port of our Kings Palace at Versailes, find it so prodigiously surpassing their expectation: As 'twill be impossible to give you particular descriptions of every thing I saw, so I am pre­vented by several Books which are publisht of it, to which I referr you. I shall only in gross, acquaint you, that for the Elegancy of the publick and private Structures, the strength and beauty of its Walls, the num­ber and opulence of its Monasteries, the pro­digious revenues of their Endowments, and [Page 188] the Pompous Furniture within 'em, its ex­tent and spatious streets, its Antiquity and Reputation for the Moorish Wars, and other innumerable excellencies, there is not within the whole Compass of the Globe a finer City. I cou'd not for a whole week be drawn from this pleasant contemplation, tho' my friend, who had less Curiosity than I, importun'd me every morning to be gone: But after I had remain'd here 7 days, I took my leave with as much reluctance as I shou'd have done with a Mistress I had been so many years courting for her company, and was that moment to leave her forever.

Our next design was to return to Cales, but because I had been twice jaded on Land, first by their Mules, and now by their Ca­lashes, I was resolv'd, ill as I lov'd the Water, (for I never had a disposition for't but for my Curiosity) to trust that Element with my Body; so hiring Places in a Barco-longo, we ship'd in the Morning, and rouled down the stream with Pleasure enough, till we came to St. Lucar, and there we entered on the Ocean again. These Barco-longo's (if you'll pardon the ill Grammar) are excellent Sailers, and will lye nearer the Wind by two Points than any of our Ships. They are extremely sharp before and behind, and that makes 'em fly when they are before the Wind, but when they come to be close halled, then are lee­wardly, and make but little way.

There are several dangerous Rocks be­tween St. Lucar and Cales, and tho' the Pilots of these Boats are dextrous in avoiding 'em, yet for want of a fair Wind, they are some­times [Page 189] put to their shifts; and when they at­tempt, as sometimes they do, to go to wind­ward of 'em, they hazard by their obstinacy their own, and the lives of their passengers. It far'd just so with us, for the Wind taking us short, just as we were abreast of Rota, where there runs a great Sea, our Pilot thought to weather the Rock, but was forc't in all hast, to bear away and go to leeward of it. This was the devil again I thought, and now I was ready to Conclude there was no safety in tra­vailing this Country, neither by Land nor Water, and to aggravate my ill Humour, just as we enter'd the Bay, we we re again beset with another Rock, call'd the Dia­mond, which we had much ado to shun. But at last the danger was past, and we got safe in to my great Satisfaction, who was heartily vext to think of being drown'd in a Bay, who had tempted the Main in so many Voyages.

I shall not trouble you with any thing that past this winter, having met with no adven­ture worth relating, only such as Regarded the Church, which I am a littte tender of re­peating, and wish with all my heart, I had no occasion giv'n me of being Scandaliz'd at 'em. But I hope it will be no offence to say, that re­ally the present Clergy are exceedingly cor­rupted, and that the artifices, with which they delude the ignorant multitude are the highest reproach that any Communion can sustain. Among many more, give me leave to name one, which is one of the most reigning scan­dals in our Churches, and that is, the prote­ction they give to every Rakehell and Villain, from the punishment of his Crimes. What [Page 190] a defamation is it to the Altars of the holy Catholick Church, to defend Murderers and Assassins? And yet nothing is more frequent all over the Roman Christendom, especially in Spain, Portugal, and Italy. In France, tho' our Churches have the same Sacredness, yet we allow no shelter but in cases of great Oppression; for there Justice can force its ex­ecution, and this indulgence is not granted to Wretches, who for their evil deeds stand for­feited to the Civil Power. I cou'd tell you surprizing stories of the Transactions of the inquisition, which come to the purpose I am speaking of, but 'tis a dangerous topick, and I shall forbear meddling with it. But that this evil is notoriously Eminent in Spain, let this story inform you, which is directly true, and told me by one who was an Eye Witness. The Calla Nueva of Cales (as I told you) is the Exchange, where the Merchants meet in the Morning to Negotiate their affairs; this street at that time is extreamly crouded, and was so, when a Boy pressing very rudely thro' the Croud, happen'd to tread on a Gentle­man's Toes, the Gentleman being hurt, turn'd round, and seeing the boy, who stood staring at him as if he dar'd his anger, hit him over the Face, and put him away. The lad taking this for an affront, went away murmuring, and presently after came back with a Stiletto, and finding the Gentleman still there, got behind him, and with his Dagger Stab'd him into the Reins, and at that one stroak laid him flat: His fall drew the Eyes of all the Ex­change that way, and when they saw the boy with his Stiletto bloody yet in his hand, every [Page 191] body was inquisitive to know the cause of such an accident, the Gentleman's company knew how he had struck the Boy, and now they had seen him Revenge the affront, they as well as the rest open'd a way thro' the Croud, and made a lane for the young Mur­derer to escape to the next Convent, which he immediately did, and was there protected by the Fryers, till some account cou'd be giv'n of the Wound. The Gentleman in three daies dyed, and still the Boy remain'd in his Sanctuary, and was afterwards made a Servant to the Convent, and lives there to this day, unpunish't and unexamin'd. Now what can be more derogatory to the Sanctity of our Religion than thus to protect such impieties? Believe me, my friend, it gives great occasion of reproach for the Enemies of our Faith to lay upon us, and I can't well blame 'em for speaking truth.

The Winter being now far advanc't with­out any memorable adventure, the General was called home, and another order'd to re­ceive him. He Sayl'd for England with the greatest part of his Fleet, and a Numerous Convoy of Merchants, and I still remain'd on board the same Ship I was first imbark't in. I can give you no further account of what the English did in those Seas, but that I after­wards heard, they did all they cou'd to way-lay the Toulon Fleet which were now on their Voyage to Brest, but that they miscarry'd in their designs, and the Renowned Tourvile brought it home in safety to the great disap­pointment and disgrace of his Enemies.

When I came to England I was discharg'd [Page 192] with the rest of the Ship's Company, and got Mony and my Liberty, and sufficient Satisfaction in what I undertook, especially if I have contributed to your Diversion, and acquitted my self of the Charge you laid up­on me according to the desires I had of plea­sing you, which is the Summ of all my wishes and Happiness. Adieu: