THE STRANGE AND DANGEROVS VOYAGE OF Captaine THOMAS IAMES, in his intended Discouery of the Northwest Passage into the South Sea.
VVHEREIN THE MISERIES INDVRED BOTH Going, Wintering, Returning; and the Rarities obserued, both Philosophicall and Mathematicall, are related in this Iournall of it.
Published by His MAIESTIES command.
To which are added, A Plat or Card for the Sayling in those Seas.
Diuers little Tables of the Author's, of the Variation of the Compasse, &c.
VVITH An Appendix concerning Longitude, by Master HENRY GELLIBRAND Astronomy Reader of Gresham Colledge in London.
AND An Aduise concerning the Philosophy of these late Discoueryes, By W. W.
LONDON, Printed by Iohn Legatt, for Iohn Partridge. 1633.
TO THE KINGS MOST excellent and Sacred MAIESTIE.
THAT my vnskilfull selfe was made choyce of for this imployment, and my vndertaking in it encouraged by Your gracious commandement; I must euer account of for the greatest honour, that euer yet befell mee. Many a Storme, and Rocke, and Mist, and Wind, and Tyde, and Sea, and Mount of Ice, haue I in this Discouery encountred withall; Many a despaire and death had, almost, ouerwhelmed mee; but still the remembrance of the Accompt that I was to giue of it to so gracious a Maiesty, put me in heart againe; made mee not to giue way to mine owne feares, or the infirmities of humanitie. Your Majestie in my employment (like a true Father of your Countrey) intended the good of your Subjects: and who is not bound to blesse God for your Royall care in it? Had it, now, beene my fortune, to haue done my Countrey this seruice, as to haue brought home the newes of this supposed and long sought for Passage; [Page] then should the Merchant haue enjoyed the sweetnesse of the hoped profit, and the Subject haue beene sensible of the benefit of your Majesties royall intentions in it. I haue done my good will in it: and though not brought home that newes, yet shall I here divulge those obseruations; which may (I hope) become some way beneficiall vnto my Countrey. The Accompt of them, I here, in all humilitie, offer vnto your most Iudicious Majesty. Your gracious acceptance of what I had done, though I had not done what was expected, emboldeneth me to doe so: and since your Majestie was pleased to signifie your desires, of hauing a Briefe of my Voyage presented vnto you: that word became a Command vnto mee, to draw this rude Abstract of it. Your Majestie will please to consider, That they were rough elements, which I had to doe withall: and will, with fauour, vouchsafe to pardon, if a Sea-mans style be like what he most conuerseth with. In the plainenesse therefore of well-meaning, since your Majestie hath beene so gracious to mee, as to appoint mee your Seruant, I am now bound to vow you my seruice: and it shall be my honour to be commanded it: and I shall account no dangers too great, in the going thorow it. These are the resolutions of
THe Printer desires to be excused to the Courteous Reader, if in an Argument of this Nature, the Compositer, not throughly acquainted with termes of Nauigation, hath sometimes, which he feareth, and in some words mistaken the Authors minde; as in flowed for stood &c. promising a future amends (if Occasion profer it selfe) by a more exact Impression.
Farewell.
THE PREPARATIONS TO THE VOYAGE.
HAuing bin for many yeeres importuned, by my Honorable and worshipfull friends; to vndertake the discouery of that part of the world, which is commonly called The North-west Passage into the South Sea; and so to proceed to Iapan, and to round the world to the Westward; Being prest forward withall, by signifying to mee the earnest desire the Kings most excellent Maiestie had, to be satisfied therein: I acquainted my much Honoured friends the Merchants of Bristoll therewith: who as euer they haue bin Benefactors and Aduancers of them that pursue the wayes of Honour: together with the enlargement and benefit of his Maiesties Kingdomes: did freely offer to bee at the charge of furnishing forth shipping for this purpose. And now being thus enabled, I addrest my selfe to the Honourable Sir Thomas Roe, Knight (as to a learned, and furthest employed traueller [Page 2] by Sea and Land, this day in England) who ioyfully presented theirs and mine owne voluntary willingnesse, to doe his Maiesties Seruice in this kinde: who most graciously accepted of the offer; and encouraged mee by many fauours in my weake vndertakings. Wherefore with all speed I contriued in my mind, the best modell I could; wherby I might effect my designe. The Adventurers monies were instantly ready, and put into a Treasurers hand: that there might be no want of present pay, for any thing I thought necessary for the Voyage.
I was euer of the opinion, that this particular action might be better effected by one ship, then by two consorted: because in those Icie Seas, so much subiect to fogs, they might be easily separated; I forbeare to speake of stormes and other accidents: as that a Rendezvous in discoueries, cannot surely, or without much hinderance be appointed: and that speedy perseuerance is the life of such a businesse. Wherefore I resolued to haue but one Ship, the Ship-boate, and a Shallop.
A great Ship (as by former experience I had found) was vnfit to be forc'd thorow the Ice: wherefore I made choice of a well-conditioned, strong Ship, of the burthen of seuentie Tunne: and in God and that only Ship, to put the hope of my future fortunes.
The Ship resolued vpon, and that in lesse time then 18. moneths our voyage could not be effected: I next considered how our Ship of seuentie Tuns in bulke and weight might now be proportioned; in victuals, namely, and other necessaries: this was all done, as contractedly as we could: and the number of men it would serue, at ordinary allowance, for the forementioned time; was found to be twenty two, a small number to performe such a businesse, yet [Page 3] double sufficient to sayle the Ship, with prouident carefulnesse.
The Baker, Brewer, Butcher, and others, vndertake their Offices vpon their credits; knowing it to be a generall businesse, and their vtter vndoing if they fayled in performance, but truly they prooued themselues Masters in their Arts; and haue my praise for their honest care: in them consisting a great part of the performance of the voyage.
The Carpenters goe in hand with the Ship: to make her as strong and seruiceable, as possibly in their vnderstandings they could.
Euery thing being duly proportioned, and my small number of men knowne; I began to thinke of the quality and abilitie they should be of.
Voluntary loyterers I at first disclaimed, and published I would haue all vnmarried, approoued, able, and healthy Sea-men: in a few dayes an abundant number presented themselues; furnished with generall sufficiencie in marine occasions; I first made choice of a Boate-swayne; and some to worke with him, for fitting the rigging of the Ship: and as things went forward, shipt the subordinate Crue; and all things being perfectly ready, I shipt the Masters mates, and last of all, the Master of my Ship, and my Liefetenant. The whole company were strangers to me, and to each other (as by way of familiaritie) but yet priuately recommended by worthy Merchants, for their abilitie and faithfulnesse. I was sought to by diuers, that had bin in places of the chiefest command in this action formerly; and others also that had vsed the Northerly Icie Seas: but I vtterly refused them all, and would by no meanes haue any with mee that had bin in the like voyage, or aduentures, for some priuate reasons vnnecessary [Page 4] here to be related; keeping thus the power in my owne hands I had all the men to acknowledge immediate dependance vpon my selfe alone; both for direction and disposing of all, as well of the Nauigation, as all other things whatsoeuer.
In the meane time, the better to strengthen my former studies in this businesse, I seeke after Iournals, Plots, Discourses; or what-euer else might helpe my vnderstanding.
I set skilfull workemen to make me Quadrants, Staues, Semicircles, &c. as much, namely, as concerne the Fabricke of them: not trusting to their Mechannicke hands, to diuide them; but had them diuided by an ingenious practitioner in the Mathematicks. I likewise had Compasse-needles made after the most reasonablest and truest wayes that could be thought on: and by the first of April, euery thing was ready to be put together into our hopefull Ship.
In the meane space, I made a Iourney vp to London, to know his Maiesties further pleasure; and to make knowne to him my readiness: who calling for the forementioned Honourable Knight, I speedily after receiued his Maiesties Royall Letters; with directions for proceeding in my voyage, and my discharge: whereupon I had foorth the Ship into the Rode, expecting a faire winde to begin the voyage.
A Voyage for the discouering a Passage to the South Sea.
THE second of May, May 2. 1631. I tooke my leaue of the Worshipfull Merchant Aduenturers in this Action, in the Citie of Bristoll: and being accompanied with a Reuerend Diuine, one Master Thomas Palmer, and diuers of the Merchants, with others of my kindred and natiue Countrey-men; I repaired aboord. Here Master Palmer made a Sermon: exhorting vs to continue brotherly loue amongst vs, and to be bold to professe the true Christian Religion where-euer we should happen, in this our perigrination. After they had receiued such entertainment, as my estate could affoord them; they departed for Bristoll. This afternoone, I made reuiew of all things; aswell of clothes, and other necessaries, as of victuals; and where there was found any want, wee were presently furnished.
The third of May (after Prayer for a prosperous successe to our endeauours) 3. about three a clocke in the afternoone we came to Sayle: and Stode downe the Channell of Seuerne, with little winde, but slowly got forward to the Westward of Lundie; and then the winde opposed it selfe so strongly against vs, that wee were driuen to beare vp and come to an Anker in Lundie-Rode the fifth in the euening; where we remained vntill the eighth in the morning. Now hoping the winde would fauour vs, wee came to Sayle; but wee were forc'd to put into Milford: where we came to an Anker [Page 6] about mid-night. Here we remained till the seuenteenth in the morning; when with the first fauouring winde, we proceeded and doubled about Cape Cleere of Ireland. May 22. The two and twentieth we were in Latitude 51: 26. and the Blaskes did beare of vs North-east, about twelue leagues off: which Blaskes is in Lat. 52. 4. Here I ordred the course that should bee kept: which was generally West North-west, as the winde would giue leaue: which in this Course and distance, is very variable and vnconstant. Iune 4. The fourth of Iune we made the land of Groynland: standing in with it to haue knowledge of the trending of it; It prooued very thicke foule weather; and the next day, 5. by two a clocke in the morning, we found our selues incompassed about with Ice: and endeauouring to cleere our selues of it (by reason we could not see farre about vs) we were the more ingaged, and strooke many fearefull blowes against it: At length we made fast to a great piece, (it blowing a very storme) and with poles wrought day and night to keepe off the Ice; in which labour we broke all our poles. 6. The sixth, about two a clocke in the morning, we were beset with many extraordinary great pieces of Ice, that came vpon vs, as it were with wilfull violence: and doubtlesse had crushed vs to pieces, if we had not let fall some Sayle which the Ship presently felt. In scaping that danger, we ran against another great piece, that we doubted whether our Ship had not bin stav'd to pieces. But pumping, we found she made no water. The former pieces of Ice, had crushed our Shallop all to pieces; wherefore I caused our long Boate speedily to be had vp from betwixt the Decks, and put ouer Boord: by helpe whereof we againe recouered our broken Shallop; and had her vp on the Decks, intending to new build her. All this day, we did beat, and were beaten fearefully, amongst the Ice; it blowing a very storme. In the euening, wee were inclosed amongst great pieces; as high as our Poope: and some of the sharpe blue corners of them, did reach quite vnder vs. All these great pieces (by reason it was the out-side of the Ice) did heaue and set, and so beat vs; that it was wonderfull how the Ship could indure one blow of it; but it was Gods only [Page 7] preseruation of vs, to whom be all honour and glory. In this extremitie, I made the men to let fall, and make what Sayle they could; and the Ship forced her selfe thorow it: though so tossed and beaten, as I thinke neuer Ship was. When we were cleere, we sayed the pumps, and found her stanch: vpon which we went instantly to prayer, and to praise God for his mercifull deliuery of vs.
The seuenth and eighth dayes, 7. & 8. we indeauoured to double about Cape Farewell; being still pestered with much Ice.
The ninth, 9. we were in Lat. 59. 00. and we made account the Cape Farewell bare of vs due East, and some ten leagues off. The Blaskes in Ireland, is in Lat. 52. 4. and Cape Farewell in Lat. 59. 00. The course is West North-west: and the distance about 410. leagues: I know very well these Latitudes, courses and distance, doe not exactly agree with Mathematicall conclusions: but thus we found it by practice. The variation of the Compasse in Lat. 52. 30. and 30. leagues to the Westward of Ireland, is about 3. 00. to the Eastward; in Lat. 57. 00. about 310. leagues, West North-west, from the Blaskes, the Compasse doth vary 9. 00. to the West-ward: in Lat. 59. 15. some 40 leagues to the East-ward, of Cape Farewell, the variation is about 14. 45. In this course I haue bin obseruant whether there were any Currant that did set to the N. E. as some haue written there did, and that as well in Calme weather, as other-wayes: But I could not perceiue any. The windes here are variable; and the Sea of an vnsearchable depth. We haue not seene from Ireland hitherto, any Whales or other Fish; The weather, for the most part, was foggie and mistie, that wets as bad as raine.
The tenth, 10. all the morning, was very foule weather: and a high-growne Sea: although we had Ice not farre off about vs, and some pieces, as high as our Top-mast-head. Our long Boate, which we were faine to Towe at Sterne (by reason we were building our Shallop on our Decks) broke away, and put vs to some trouble to recouer her againe. This we did, and made meanes to haue her into the Ship, though very much bruised: and that I had two men sore hurt, and like to [Page 8] be lost in the hauing of her in. By eight a clocke this euening, we were shot vp as high as Cape Desolation: for finding here the Land to trend away North and by East, we certainly knew it to be the Cape. It stands in Lat. 60. 00. and the Land from Cape Farewell to it, trends N. W. the distance about 40. leagues. The distance from Cape Desolation, to the South end of the Iland of Resolution, is about 140. leagues: the course West, halfe a point North. The Lat. of the South end of the Iland, being 61. 20. some 12. leagues to the Westward of Cape Desolation, the variation is 16. 00. In this course, we were much tormented, pestered and beaten with the Ice: many pieces being higher then our Top-mast-head. In our way, we saw many Grampusses amongst the Ice; and it seemeth the Sea is full of them: The weather for the most part, a stinking fogge; and the Sea, very blacke: which I conceiue to be occasioned by reason of the fogge.
The seuenteenth at night, 17. we heard the rutt of the shoare, as we thought: but it prooued to be the rutt against a banke of Ice, that lay on the shoare. It made a hollow and a hideous noyse, like an ouer-fall of water: which made vs to reason amongst our selues concerning it: for we were not able to see about vs, it being darke night, and foggie. We stood off from it, till breake of day; then in againe: and about 4. a clocke in the morning wee saw the Land aboue the fogge: which we knew to be the Iland of Resolution. This last night was so cold, that all our Rigging and Sayles were frozen. Wee endeauoured to compasse about the Southern point of the Iland: for that we were so much pestered with the Ice, and blinded with a very thicke fogge. Here runnes a quicke tyde into the Straight; but the ebbe is as strong as the flood; The fogge was of such a piercing nature, that it spoiled all our Compasses, and made them flagge; and so heauy withall, that they would not trauerse. Wherefore I would aduise any, that shall Sayle this way hereafter, to prouide Compasses of Muscouia Glasse, or some other matter, that will endure the moisture of the weather. As the fogge cleered vp, we could see the entrance of the Straight, to be all full of Ice [Page 9] close thronged together. Indeauouring to goe forward, wee were fast inclosed amongst it; and so droue to and againe with it, finding no ground at 230. fad. 4. leagues from the shoare.
The twentieth in the morning, we had got about the Southerne point of the Iland; 20 and the winde came vp at West, and droue both vs and the Ice vpon the shoare. When we were driuen within two leagues of the shoare, we came amongst the most strangest whirlings of the Sea, that possibly can bee conceiued; There were diuers great pieces of Ice a-ground in 40. fad. water, and the ebbe comming out of the broken grounds of the Iland, amongst these Iles of Ice, made such a distractiō that we were carryed round: sometimes close by the Rocks; sometimes close by those high pieces: that we were afeard they would fall vpon vs. We were so beaten likewise with the encountering of the Ice, that we were in a most desperate estate: We made fast two great pieces of Ice to our sides, with our Kedger and Grapnels, that drew 9. or 10. fad. that so they might be a-ground before vs, if so be we were driuen on the shoare. But that designe fayled vs: and now from the top seeing in amongst the Rocks, I sent the Boate (for now wee had finished her) to see if shee could finde some place of securitie: but shee was no sooner parted, but shee was inclosed, and driuen to hale vp on the Ice, or else shee had beene crushed to pieces. They ranne her ouer the Ice from piece to piece: and in the meane space, with the whirling and incountring of the Ice, the two pieces brake away from our sides, and carryed away our Kedger and Grapnels: Then we made signes to the Boate, to make all the haste shee could to vs: which shee perceiuing, did: the men being with much difficultie inforced to hale her ouer many pieces of Ice. In the meane space, we made some Sayle; and got to that piece of Ice, that had our Grapnell on it: which wee againe recouered. By this time, was our Boate come; and We put afresh Crue into her, and sent her to fetch our Kedger: which shee endeauoured with much danger of Beate and Men. By this time, the Ship was driuen so [Page 10] neere the shoare, that we could see the Rocks vnder vs and about vs: and we should be carryed with the whirlings of the waters, close by the points of Rocks, and then round about backe againe: and all this, notwithstanding the Sayle we had abroad; that wee expected continually when shee would be beaten to pieces. In this extremitie, I made them to open more Sayle, and to force her in amongst the Rocks and broken grounds: and where there was many great pieces of Ice aground. We went ouer Rocks, that had but 12. or 13. foot water on them; and so let fall an Anker. This Anker had neuer bin able to winde vp the Ship, but that, (by good fortune) the Ship ranne against a great piece of Ice, that was a-ground. This rush, brake the Mayne knee of her Beake head, and a corner of it: tare away 4. of our maine Shrouds, and an Anker that we had at the Bowe, fastened into it: and so stopt her way, that she did winde vp to her Anker. Wee saw the sharpe Rocks vnder vs, and about vs; and had but 15. foot water: being also in the sides way, where all the Ice would driue vpon vs: Our Boate we could not see; which made vs doubt shee had bin crushed to pieces. In her, was the third part of our company: but by and by we saw her come about a point amongst the Rocks. Shee had recouered our Kedger; which made vs something ioyfull; With all speed we laid out Hawsers to the Rocks; and euery one did worke to the best of his strength, to Warp her out of this dangerous place, to the Rocks sides: where wee had 3. fad. water, and were vnder the shelter of a great piece of Ice that was a-ground, which should keepe off the Ice, that otherwise would haue driuen vpon vs. Here wee lay very well all the ebbe; but when the stood came, we were assaulted with pieces of Ice, that euery halfe houre put vs into despayrable distresse. We did worke continually, and extremely, to keepe off the Ice. At full Sea, our great piece of Ice (which was our buckler) was afloate; and doe what wee could, got away from vs, and left vs in a most eminent danger, by reason of the Ice that droue in vpon vs. But the ebbe being once made, this great piece of Ice came againe a-ground [Page 11] very fauourable to vs; and sheltered vs all the rest of the, ebbe. All night we wrought hard, to shift our Cables and Hawsers; and to make them fast aloft on the Rocks, that the Ice might the better passe vnder them. All day, and all night, it snowed hard; and blew a very storme at West; which droue in all the Ice out of the Sea vpon vs. In working against the violence of the Ice, the flooke of our Kedger was broken; two armes of our Grapnels, and two Hawsers, our Shallop being againe very much bruised: whereupon to work we goe on all hands to repaire it.
This tyde, 21 the Harbour was choaked full of Ice; so that it did seeme firme and vnmooueable: but when the ebbe was made, it did mooue. Some great pieces came a-ground; which did alter the course of the other Ice, and put vs on the Rocks. Here, notwithstanding all our vttermost endeauours, she settled vpon a sharpe Rocke; about a yard aboue the Mayne Mast; and as the water ebbed away, she hung after the Head, and heeld to the Offing. We made Cables and Hawsers aloft to her Masts, and so to the Rocks; straining them tough with our Tackles: but shee as the water ebbed away, sunke still; that at length shee was so turned ouer, that wee could not stand in her. Hauing now done all to the best of our vnderstandings (but to little purpose) we went all vpon a piece of Ice and fell to prayer; beseeching God to be mercifull vnto vs. It wanted yet an houre to low-water: and the tyde did want a foot and a halfe to ebbe, to what it had ebbed the last tyde. We were carefull obseruers of the low-waters, and had marks by stones and other things which we had set vp, so that we could not be deceiued. The Ship was so turn'd ouer, that the Portlesse of the Fore-castell, was in the water: and we did looke euery minute, when shee would ouer-set. Indeed at one time, the Cables gaue way; and shee sunke downe halfe a foot at that slip: but vnexpectedly it began to flow, and sensibly wee perceiued the water to rise apace; and the Shippe withall. Then was our sorrow turned to ioy, and we all fell on our knees, praising God for his mercy, in so miraculous a deliuerance.
[Page 12] As soone as she was freed from this Rocke, we wrought hard to get her further off. All the flood, we were pretty quiet from the Ice: but when the ebbe was made, the Ice came all driuing againe vpon vs; which put vs to a great extremity. We got as many pieces betwixt vs and the Rockes, as we could; to fence vs from the Rockes. There came a great piece vpon our quarter, which was aboue 300. of my paces about, but it came a-ground. Thus did diuers great pieces besides; which was the occasion, that this tyde the Harbour was quite choakt vp: so that a man might goe any way ouer it, from side to side. When it was three quarters ebbe, these great pieces that came a-ground, began to breake with a most terrible thundering noyse: which put vs in a great feare, that those about vs would breake vs all to pieces. But God preserued vs.
This morning the water veer'd to a lower ebbe then the last tide it had done, 22. by two foote; whereby we saw Gods mercies apparent in our late extremity. That flood, wee had some respit from our labours; but after full sea, our hopes ebde too. The great peece that was by vs, so stopt the Channell, that the Ice came all driuing vpon vs; so that now, vndoubtedly we thought wee should haue lost our Ship. To worke thereupon we goe, with axes, barres of iron, and any thing proper for such a purpose; to breake the corners of the Ice, and to make way for it to driue away from vs. It pleased God to giue good successe to our labours; and we made way for some, and fended off the rest; and got so much of the softer sort of the Ice betwixt vs and the Rockes, that we were in pretty security. But at low-water, those peeces that were aground, breaking; kept a most thundering noyse about vs. This day I went ashore; and built a great Beacon with stones vpon the highest place of the Iland; and put a Crosse vpon it; and named this Harbour, The Harbour of Gods Prouidence. In the Euening, the Harbour was fuller of the Ice, then euer it had beene since we came hither: and the greater peeces grounded, and stopt the rest, that none went out the ebbe, but the Ship lay, as if shee had laine in a bed of Ice.
[Page 13] The three and twentieth day in the morning, 23. with the flood, the Ice droue vp amongst the broken grounds; and with the ebbe, droue all out (it being then very calme) except one extraordinary great peece: which comming aground not farre from vs, settled it selfe in such a manner, that we much feard him. But there came no more great Ice after him: otherwise, we must haue expected as great danger, as at any time heretofore. I tooke the boate, and went ashoare vpon the Easterne side; to see if I could finde any place freer from danger then this vnfortunate place: where amongst the Rockes, I discried a likely place. From the top of the Hill where I was, I could see the Ship. It was now almost lowe water: at which instant the forementioned piece of Ice brake with a terrible noyse into foure pieces: which made me doubtfull it had not spoyled the Ship; it being full halfe mast high. I made what haste I could to the boate, and so to the Ship, to be satisfied: where I found all well, God be thanked: for that the Ice had broken from the Ship-ward. I instantly sent away the boate, to sound the way to a Coue that I had found: which was a very dangerous passage for the boate. At her returne, we vn-moord the Ship: and with what speede possible warpt away from amongst this terrible Ice. We were not a mile from them, but they brake all to pieces: and would surely haue made vs beare them company, but that God was more mercifull vnto vs. We got about the Rocks, and so into this little Coue which I had so newly discouered. Here we made fast to the Rockes; and thought our selues in indifferent safety: which being done, I went ashoare againe, to wander vp and downe, to see what I could discouer. I found it all broken Rockie grounds: and not so much as a tree, herbe, or grasse vpon it: Some Ponds of water there were in it, which were not yet thawed, and therefore not ready for the fowle; We found not in the snow any footing of Deere, or Beares, but Foxes we saw one or two.
We found where the Saluages had beene; but it was long since. They had made fiue hearths; and we found a few firebrands about them; and some heads of Foxes, and bones of [Page 14] Foxes; with some Whale-bones. I could not conceiue, to what purpose they should come thither; for we could finde none or very little wood on the shoares side, and no fish at all; though we did dayly indeauour to take some. But it may be, the season was not yet come. I named this Coue by the Masters name of my Ship, Prices Coue. The Latitude of it is 61. 24. the Variation. The firebrands and chips which I spake of, had beene cut with some hatchet or other good instrument of iron: from the top of the hills, we could see the Ilands that are on the South shore; and commonly called Sir Thomas Buttons Iles: They did beare South and by East, halfe a point Easterly: some 14. or 15 leagues distant vpon the change day, it flowes here seuen a clocke and a halfe; and the tyde highest at most three fad. The flood comes from the Eastwards, and thither it returnes. I haue beene obseruant from the top of the hills; whence I might descry the great pieces of Ice, 2. or 3. leagues from the shoare, driue to and againe with the flood and ebbe indifferently. Hence I collected that assuredly there is no currant sets in here, but that it is a meere tyde. Neere the shoare, the eddies whitle into twenty manners; when the ebbe is made: which is, because it comes out of the broken ground amongst the Ice that is aground neere the shoare: Besides which reason, there be diuers Rockes lying vnder water; on which you shall haue now 30. then 12. and anon but 8. and then 20. fad. And these vncertainties, occasion such distractions. I would therefore aduise none to come too neere those dangerous shoares, for feare hee lose his ship, and so by consequence all: The last night, we tooke better rest then we had done in tenne nights before.
And this morning being the 24. 24. there sprung vp a faire gale of wind at East: and after prayer we vnfastened our Ship, and came to saile, steering betwixt great pieces of Ice, that were a-ground in 40. fad. and twice as high as our top-mast head.
Wee went forth of this Coue, vpon the flood, and had none of those whirlings of the waters, as we had at our going [Page 15] into it. We indeauoured to gaine the North shoare; kept our selues within a league of the shoare of the Iland of Resolution, where we had some cleere water to saile thorow. In the Offing, it was all thicke throngd together, as might be possible. By 12. a clocke, we were fast inclosed, and notwithstanding it blew very hard at East, yet we could make no way through it: but the hard corners of the Ice did grate vs with that violence, as I verily thought it would haue grated the plankes from the Ships sides. Thus we continued in torment, till the day, driuing to and againe in the Ice; not being able to see an acre of sea from top-mast head. This 26. 26. was calme Sun-shine weather; and we tooke the Latitude & Variation. The Latitude is, the Variation we sounded, and had ground at 140. fad. small white sand. I caused the men to lay out some fishing lines; but to no purpose: for I could not perceiue that baite had beene so much as touched. The nights are very cold: so that our rigging freezes: and the fresh ponds of water stand vpon the Ice, aboue halfe an inch thicke.
The 27. 27. there sprung vp a little gale at South-East: and the Ice did something open. Hereupon we let fall our foresayle, and forced the Ship thorow the throng of Ice. In the Euening, the winde came contrary, at W. N. W. and blew hard: which caused vs to fasten to a great piece, to which we remained moord till the 29.
I am resolued, 28. that here is no currant: and that by many experiments which I haue made. Namely, by taking markes on the land; and noting our drift to and againe, with the ebbe and flood, for many dayes together; as well in calme weather, as otherwayes. By all these experiments I found exactly, that the tide was no stronger there, then that betwixt England and France.
This morning, 29. there sprung vp a fine gale at E. and the Ice did open something, so that we did force the Ship thorow it with her fore-saile. By 12. a clocke, we were gotten into some open water, with a fine gale of wind at East, and so cleere weather, that we could see the Iland of Resolution. [Page 16] The North end did beare of vs E. N. E. some 12. leagues off.
From this 29. till the 5. of Iuly, Iuly 5. wee sayled continually thorow the Ice, with variable winds and fogges, and sometimes calme. The 5. at noone, we had a good obseruation, and were in Latitude 63. 15. and then wee saw Salisbury Iland, bearing W. by N. some 7. leagues off: with much Ice betwixt it and vs: to weather which, we were driuen to stand to the Northward. Soone after, we saw Prince Charles his Cape, and Mill Iland: and to the North-north-west, (and in deed, round about vs) the Sea most infinitely pestered with Ice. This did grieue mee very much: for whereas I had determined to prosecute the discouery to the North-westward, I saw it was not possible this yeere. Wee were moreouer driuen back againe with contrary windes; still closed and pestered with Ice: and with all the perils and dangers, incident to such aduentures: so that we thought a thousand times, that the Ship had bin beaten to pieces.
By the fifteenth day of Iuly, 15. we were got betwixt Digges Iland and Nottinghams Iland: not being able to get more Northward. There for an houre or two, we had some open water.
But before I proceed further, it were not amisse in some manner to describe the Straight, which begins at the Iland of Resolution, and ends here at Digges Iland. If you goe downe into the Bay, the Straight is about 120. leagues long; and trends W. N. W. and E. S. E. generally. In the entrance, it is about 15. leagues broad; and then on the Southward side, is a great Bay. About the middest, it is likewise about 15. leagues broad: and then the Land opens something wider: so that betwixt Digges Iland, and Cape Charles, it is about 20. leagues broad. Betwixt which two stands Salisbury Iland, and Nottingham Iland. If it be cleere weather, you may see both the South and the North shoares: ordinarily, the depth in the middle of the Straight, is 120. faddomes, white sand. A certaine tyde runnes in it, and no Current: The North shoare, is the straightest, and the cleerest from Ice too. Alongst the North shoare, you haue many low small Ilands: [Page 17] which cannot be seene farre off from the land: and in many places, the land makes as if it had small sounds into it. The Maine land on both sides, is indifferent high land. And so much for discourse may suffice: referring you to the Plot for the particulars.
Being now resolued of the impossibilitie to doe any thing to the North-westward, 16. for the reasons aforesaid: I gaue order to the Master of my Ship to Steere away, W. S. W. to haue a sight of Mansfeilds Iland; which the next day by three a clocke in the after-noone, we had: hauing had so much dangerous foule weather amongst the Ice, that we strooke more fearefull blowes against it, then we had euer yet done. This was the first day that wee went to halfe allowance of bread Flesh dayes: and I ordered things as sparingly as I could. Two of our men complaine likewise of sickenesse; but soone afterward recouered. In the euening wee came to an Anker: and I sent the Boate ashoare to try the tydes. They brought mee word, that whilest the Boat was ashoare, it flowed about some three foote: and as wee found by the Ship, and by the Ice; the water at that time came from the W. S. W. and that the highest tydes (so farre as they could perceiue) it had not highed aboue two faddome: They found that the Saluages had beene vpon it; by certaine fires which they found, and heapes of stones, Tracks of other beasts, but Foxes they could not finde. The winde was so contrary, and the weather so foggie; that wee were faine to spend some powder to recouer our Boate againe.
Next morning being the 17. 17. the winde came something fauourable: and wee wayed. The shoare being something cleere of Ice (though very thicke all to the Offing) wee stood alongst it S. and S. by W. some 10. leagues. In the after-noone, the winde came contrary: and we came againe to an Anker, within a mile of the shoare: for to Sea-boord, was all thicke Ice, and vnpassable. I went ashoare my selfe, to be resolued of the tyde, and found whilest I was a shoare, that it did flow two foote: and at that time the flood came from the S. W. by W. I doubted it was an halfe tyde; which [Page 18] afterwards I found to be true. I found where the Saluages had beene vpon the Iland; but could see little or no drift wood on the shoare; no beasts on the Iland, nor fishes in the Sea. It flowes on the change day, about a eleuen a clocke. We saw some fowle on it: of which we killed one, and returned aboord. This Iland is very low land; little higher then a dry sand-banke. It hath Ponds vpon it of fresh water, but no grasse: and is vtterly barren of all goodnesse.
The 18. in the morning, the winde came something fauourable; 18. and we weyed and came to Sayle: for the Ice was all comne about vs. We endeauoured to proceed to the Westward; intending to fall with the Westerne land, about the Latitude 63. 00. By twelue a clocke, (hauing beene much pestered) we were comne to a firme range of Ice: but it pleased God that the winde larged, and wee stowed away S. S. W. At noone in Lat. 62. 00. by 4. in the euening (hauing scaped dangerous blowes) wee were come (as wee thought) into an open Sea; and ioyfully steered away West, and W. by N. although that Ioy was soone quayled. By ten at night, we heard the rut of the Ice: and it grew a thicke fogge, and very darke with it: neuerthelesse we proceeded, and the neerer we came to it, the more hideous noyse it made.
By three in the morning, the 19. we were come to it, 19. and as it did cleere a little, we could see the Ice: which were as thicke rands of Ice, as any we had yet seene. These being vnpassable, and moreouer the winde at N. W. we stowed alongst it, hoping to weather it to the Southward: but at last, we became so blinded with fogge, and so incompassed with Ice, that we could goe no further.
The 20. in the morning (notwithstanding the fogge) 20. we endeauoured to get to the Westward; our Ship beating and knocking all this while most fearefully.
In this wilfulnesse we continued till the 21: 21. when being fast amongst the Ice, I obserued we were in Lat. 60. 33. and then looking what damage our Ship might haue receiued, we could perceiue that below the plate of Iron, which was before her Cut-water, shee was all bruised and broken: the two [Page 19] knees she had before, to strengthen her, spoyled and torne: and many other defects, which we could not by any meanes come to mend. Notwithstanding all this, and the extraordinary thicke fogge (that we could not see a Pistoll shot about vs) we proceeded with the hazzard of all.
Till the 27: 27. which was the frist time we had cleere weather to looke about vs: The winde withall came vp at South, and the Ice did open something: so that we made some way thorow it to the Westward. In the euening, we were fast againe, and could goe no further: the winde veering from the South to the East; and blowing a fresh gale. This occasioned our griefes the more; that with a good winde, wee could not goe forward: putting therefore a Hawser vpon a piece of great Ice, to keepe the Ship close to it, we patiently expected for better fortune. Since we came from Mansfields Iland, our depth was commonly 110. and 100. fad. oozye ground. Now the water begins to showlde: for this present 27. driuing fast to and againe in the Ice, we haue but 80. fad. ground as before.
The 28. and 29. we were so fast inclosed in the Ice, 28. that notwithstanding, we put abroad all the sayle that was at yards; and that it blew a very hard gale of winde; the Ship stirred no more then if shee had beene in a dry Docke. Hereupon we went all boldly out vpon the Ice, to sport and recreate our selues, letting her stand still, vnder all her Sayles. It was flat, extraordinary large Ice: the worst to deale withall, that we had yet found. I measured some pieces: which I found to be 1000. of my paces long. This was the first day that our men began to murmure: thinking it impossible to get either forwards or backe-wards. Some were of the opinion, that it was all such Ice, betwixt vs and the shoare. Others, that the Bay was all couered ouer: and that it was a doubt whether we could get any way, or to any land, to winter in. The nights were long; and euery night it did so freeze, that we could not sayle amongst the Ice by night, nor in the thicke foggie weather. I comforted and incouraged them, the best I could: and to put away these cogitations, wee dranke a health to his [Page 20] Maiestie on the Ice; not one man in the Ship; and shee still vnder all her sayles. I most ingeniously confesse, that all their murmuring was not without reason; wherefore doubting that we should be frozen vp in the Sea: I ordered that fire should be made but once a day, and that but with a certaine number of shides, that the Steward should deliuer to the Cooke by tale, the better to prolong our fewell whatsoeuer should happen.
The 30. 30. we made some way thorow the Ice: we heauing the Ship with our shoulders, and with Mawles and Crowes of Iron, breaking the corners of the Ice, to make way. As we got forwards, the water shoalded apace: so that I beleeue it to be some Iland. At noone we obseru'd thorow the fogge, with the Quadrant, vpon a piece of Ice: and were in Lat. 58. 54. our depth 30. fad. We put out hookes, to try to catch some fish, but to no purpose; for there is not any in this Bay.
The 31. 31. we laboured as aforesaid: and got something forward. At noone we were in Lat. 58. 40. our depth 23. fad. It was very thicke hazye weather; or else I thinke we should haue seene the land.
The first of August, August 1. the winde came vp at West; which droue vs to the Eastward: where our depth increased to 35. fad. At noone (by obseruation with the Quadrant, on the Ice) we were in Lat. 58. 45. At sixe a clocke this euening, we might perceiue the Ice to heaue and set a little: which was occasioned by a swelling Sea, that came out of the South-West. This did comfort vs very much: hoping shortly we should get out of the Ice.
The second, 2. it did blow hard at South-West, and yet we could not feele the forementioned swelling Sea: which did againe quench the hopes we had formerly conceiued.
The third, 3. wee did see a little open water to the North-westward; and did feele a swelling Sea from the West: which doth assure vs, that there is an open Sea to the Westward.
The fift, 5. we saw the Sea cleere: but could by no meanes worke our selues to it with our sayles: wherefore about sixe [Page 21] in the euening, wee let fall an Anker in 50. fad. water; and stood all with poles and oares to fend off the Ice, and let it passe to Leewards. We continued this labour all night.
In the morning, 6. the winde came vp at North-West, and we wayed with much ioy, as hoping now to get into an open Sea to the Southward. This by noone we had done; and were in Lat. 58. 28. very free of Ice. The winde did large vpon vs: so that we stood away North-West, to get vp as high to the Northward as we could: and so to come coasting to the Southward. We went to prayer, and to giue God thanks for our deliuery out of the Ice.
The ninth, 9. (being in Lat. 59. 40.) we came againe to the Ice, which lye very thicke to the North: since we came out of the Ice, our depth increased to 110. and now decreaseth againe: So that I thinke we approched towards the shoare.
The tenth prooued very thicke foggie weather; 10. the winde contrary, and the water showlding apace, we came to an Anker in 22. fad.
The eleuenth in the morning, 11. we wayed, and made in for the shoare; and about noone saw the land: our depth being 16. fad. in Lat. 59. 40. The land to the North of vs, did trend North by East, and so made a point to the Southward, and trended away West by South, which we followed: making it for that place, which was formerly called Hubberts Hope. And so it prooued indeed: but it is now hopelesse.
Two or three words now, concerning the Bay that we haue past ouer. It is from Digges Iland, to this Wester land (in latitude aforesaid) about 160. leagues, the course West South West, the variation
The tydes doe set in the middle of the Bay, East and West, as we haue often tryed by our ledde aground: but neerer the shoares, as they are forced by the land; I am of the opinion that in the Ocean, or in large Bayes, the tydes doe naturally set East and West, and that this doth giue little hope of a passage. The greatest depth we had in the Bay, was 110. fad. and so shoalding, as you approch to land, we coasted round about this forementioned little Bay; which is some 18. leagues [Page 22] deepe in 8. and 6. fad. and in the bottome of it, we were in two faddome and a halfe water, and saw the firme land, almost round about vs. Then we proceeded to the Southward sixe and seuen faddome water; within sight of the breach of the shoare: keeping the lead continually going, and in the night we would come to an Anker. This night being little winde, we came to an Anker with our Kedger: but in waying of him, we lost him, hauing no more aboord vs.
The 12. 12. we were in Lat. 58. 46. some two leagues from the shoare. The variation is about 17. deg.
The 13. 13. in the afternoone (it being something hazye) we saw some breaches ahead vs: our depth was 9. and 10. fad. and luffing to cleere our selues of them, we suddenly strooke vpon the Rocks: the Ship then being vnder our two Topsayles, Foresayle and Spreetsayle: with a fresh gale of winde. In this fearefull accident, wee strooke all our sayles amaine; and it did please God to send two or three good swelling Seas, which did heaue vs ouer the Rocks, into 3. fad. and presently into three faddome and a halfe; where we chopt to an Anker: and sayed the pumps: but we found shee made no water, although shee had three such terrible blowes, that we thought her Mast would haue shiuered to pieces, and that she had bin assuredly bulged. Wee hoyst the Boate ouer-boord, and double man'd her: to goe seeke and sound a way, out of this perilous place. Shee was no sooner gone, but there rose a fogge; so that we were faine to spend some powder, that shee might heare whereabouts we were. The winde duld something; otherwise, it had beene doubtfull whither shee could euer haue recouered to vs againe. After shee had beene absent two houres, she brought vs word, that it was all Rocks and breaches, round about vs: and that withall, shee had found a way, where there was not lesse then two fad. and a halfe: and that afterwards, the water did deepen. We did presently way, and follow the Boate, and past ouer two ledges of Rocks, on which there was scarce 14. foot water. Then it did deepen to 3. 4. and so to 14. fad. then it shoulded againe to 9. It being now night, we came to an Anker: where [Page 23] we ride indifferent well all the night. In the morning, the winde came contrary; so that wee could not goe that way we intended to cleere our selues: and therefore we went to worke; to fit our holds, to splise our Cables; and made ready two shot, and so placed them in the Hold, that they might vpon all occasions runne cleere; the ends of them being fastned to the maine Mast. We likewise lookt to our Ankers, and fitted our spare ones. We got out our long Boate from betwixt the decks; which was very much broken and bruised. The Carpenter went to worke to fit her, (for I intended to tow the Shallop at Sterne) and so to haue the Boats ready at an instant, either to lay out Ankers, or to be seruiceable to what God should be pleased to try our faith and patience withall: for in him was our only trust, and our hope vpon his fauour, in our honest endeauours. At noone, in Lat. 57. 45. wee could see the land from the N. W. to the S. E. by E. with Rocks and breaches: and the Rocks that we came ouer, dry aboue water: whereby I knew it flowes here two faddomes at least. At noone, I sent the Boate off to sownd to the Eastward: because the water shoulded, when we came to an Anker. Shee brought vs word, the shouldest water she had beene in, was 7. fad. We intending thereupon to way, the winde came Easterly: so that we could not budge: but lay here the 14. all night, 14. with a stiffe gale of winde.
The 15. in the euening, 15. our Cable galded off: by reason of which perilous and sudden accident, in which wee had not time to put a Buoy to it, we lost our Anker, and were driuen into 4. fad. water, before we could set our sayles. This when we had done, we stowed South South-East, the winde being at East, but the water shoulded to 3. fad. Then wee stowed North north-east, and it did deepen by degrees to ten fadd. and because it grew darke, we came to an Anker, and rid a good stresse all night.
In the morning the 16. 16. the winde came vp at North a fresh gale: and we wayed and came to sayle. By nine a clocke, it grew to be a very storme: and we turned to and againe, in 10. fad. water. In the euening, the winde duld: and wee [Page 24] stood South-west, to haue a sight of Port Nelson: which course we stood all night, by the Starres, being in Lat. 57. 25. the variation, about 17. degrees.
The 17. in the morning, 17. we stood South: and our depth decreased by degrees to 8. faddomes. At noone we had good obseruation: being in Latitude 57. 15. and wee make account, that we are some 6. or 7. leagues of the Southerne side of Port Nelson. Here the colour of the water changed: and was of a puddlelish and sandy red colour. We stood into 6. fad. and could not see the land from Top-mast-head: so night comming on, and it beginning to blow hard at East by South, we stood off againe into 10. and 12. faddomes: where the water was againe of the colour of the Sea.
The 18. as the winde and weather fauoured vs, 18. and the storme was broken vp: we stood in againe South, and came againe into thicke puddlelish water: into 8. 7. and 6. fad. and then off againe: for that it grew thicke foggie weather: keeping our lead continually going, night and day.
The 19. being fine cleere Sun-shine weather; 19. we stood in againe into the thicke puddleish water, into 8. fad. where we came to an Anker, to try the tydes: For that from Top-mast-head, we could not now see the land. We were at noone (by good obseruation) in Latitude 57. 20. and the tyde did set N. W. by W. and S. E. by E. It did runne two knols and a halfe in two glasses; I resolued, that this was nothing but shoalds to the land. In the after-noone it began to snuffle and blow; so that we had much adoe to get vp our Anker. This being done, we stood East South East: but the water shoalded apace. Then we stood East, and it deepened a little: In the euening, the winde came vp at West; and then we stood East South-east, into 10. and 8. and afterwards South-East, as our depth did guide vs by our lead, and the colour of the water into 7. and 6. faddomes.
The 20. 20. at 6. in the morning, we saw the land: it being a very low flat land. Wee stood into 5. faddomes, to make it the better: and so stood alongst it. At noone wee were in lat. 57. 00. We named it, The new Principality of South Wales; [Page 25] and drank a health in the best liquor we had to Prince Charles his Highnesse, whom God preserue. We stood alongst it; and came to a point where it trends to the Southward: neere to which point, there are two small Ilands. In the euening it was calme, and we came to an Anker. The tyde set as aforesaid. There we rid all that night, and the next day: by reason the winde was contrary. There went a chopping short Sea: and the Ship did labour at it, exceedingly leaping in Spreet-sayle yard, Forecastell, and all: for as yet we had not trimmed her well, to ride. About nine at night, it was very darke: and it did blow hard. Wee did perceiue by the lead the Ship did driue, wherefore bringing the Cable to Capstang, to heaue in our Cable (for we did thinke we had lost our Anker) the Anker hitcht againe, and vpon the chopping of a Sea, threw the men from the Capstang. A small rope in the darke, had gotten foule about the Cable, and about the Masters legge too: but with helpe of God hee did cleere himselfe, though not without sore bruising. The two Mates were hurt; the one in the head; the other in the arme. One of our lustiest men, was strooken on the brest with a bar, that he lay sprawling for life: another had his head betwixt the Cable; and hardly escaped. The rest were flung, where they were sore bruised: But our Gunner (an honest and a diligent man) had his legge taken betwixt the Cable and the Capstang: which wrung off his foote, and tare all the flesh off his legge, and crushed the bone to pieces, and sorely withall bruised all his whole body: in which miserable manner hee remained crying till we had recouered our selues, our memory and strengths to cleere him. Whilest we were putting him and the rest downe to the Chirurgion; the Ship droue into shoalde water; which put vs all in feare: we being so sorely weakened by this blow, which had hurt eight of our men. It pleased God, that the Anker held againe: and shee rid it out all night. By midnight, the Chirurgion had taken off the Gunners legge at the gartering place; and drest the others that were hurt and bruised: after which we comforted each other as well as we could.
[Page 26] The 22. 22. wee weyed; and stood a little off into deeper water; expecting a better winde. Which in the afternoone fauoured vs. Wee stood in againe for the shoare, and alongst it wee proceeded. It is very shoald about foure leagues off, and full of breaches.
The 23. 23. at noone, we were in latitude 56. 28. In the euening, the winde came contrary: and we were faine to turne to and againe. All this moneth, the winde hath beene very variable, and continued not long vpon one point: yet it happened so, that we can get but little forward.
The 26. 26. there sprung vp a fine gale at West, but very thicke weather: neuerthelesse wee stood into 7. and 6. fad. the water very thicke and puddlelish. At noone, it cleered; and we could see that we were imbayed in a little Bay: the land being almost round about vs. We stood out of it, and so alongst it, in sight; till the 27. 27. in the morning: when we came to higher land then any we had yet seene, since we came from Nottingham Iland. We stood into it, and came to an Anker in 5. faddome. I sent off the Boate, well man'd and arm'd; with order in writing what they were to doe: and a charge to returne againe, before Sunne-set: The euening came, and no newes of our Boate: we shot and made false fires; but had no answer: which did much perplex vs, doubting that there had some distaster befalne her, through carelesnesse, and in her we should lose all. Wee aboord, at present, were not able to wey our Anker, nor sayle the Ship. At last we saw a fire vpon the shoare; which made vs the more doubtfull, because they did not answer our shot, nor false fires with the like. Wee thought withall, that it had beene the Saluages, who did now triumph in their conquest. At length they came, all safe and well: and excused themselues, in that vpon their comming ashoare, it did ebbe so suddenly, that a banke of sand was so presently dry without them, as they could not come away, till that was couered againe: and with that they pacified mee: They reported, that there was great store of drift wood, on the shoare: and a good quantitie growing on the land. That they saw the tracks of Deere and [Page 27] Beares: good store of Fowle; (of which they had killed some) but no signe of people. That they past ouer two little riuers, and came to a third; which they could not passe: That it did flow very neere three faddomes, sometimes; as appeared by the shoare. That it was low water at foure a clocke; that the flood came from the North-west: and that it flowed halfe tyde; which both they and we had perceiued by the Ship. At low water, we had but three faddome, where we did ride. The winde began to blow hard at East, whereupon we weyed and stood to the Northward till midnight: Then in againe; and in the morning wee saw the land: and then it began to blow hard, and as we stood off, it increased to a very storme; so that at length wee could not maintaine a payre of courses; but tryed vnder our Maine course, all day and all night: sometime turning her head, to the Landward: sometime to the Offing.
The 29. 29. in the morning, we made account we had drouen backe againe, some 16. or 18. leagues: and in the morning (as it cleered) wee saw a Ship to Leeward of vs some three or foure leagues: so wee made sayle and bore vp with her. Shee was then at an Anker in 13. fadd. It was his Maiesties Ship, and Captaine Foxe commanded in her.
I saluted him according to the manner of the Sea, and receiued the like of him. So I stood in to see the land, and thought to tacke about, and keepe weather of him, and to send my Boat aboord of him: but the winde shifted, so that for that time I could not. In the euening, I came to weather of him, and sent my Boat aboord of him; who presently weighed, and stood off with mee till midnight: and then we stood in againe.
In the morning Captaine Foxe and his friends, came aboord of mee: where I entertained them in the best manner I could: and with such fresh meat as I had gotten from the shoare; I told him, how I had named the land, The South Principality of Wales. I shewed him how farre I had beene to the Eastward: where I had landed; and in briefe, I made knowne to him, all the dangers of this Coast, as farre as I had beene. [Page 28] He told mee, how himselfe had beene in Port Nelson: and had made but a Cursory discouery hitherto: and that he had not beene aland; nor had not many times seene the land. In the euening, after I had giuen his men some necessaries, with Tobacco and other things which they wanted: hee departed aboord his Ship: and the next morning, stood away South South-west: since which time, I neuer saw him. The winde something fauouring mee, I stood in for the shoare; and so proceeded alongst it, in sight.
This moneth of August ended with Snow and Haile; the weather being as cold, as at any time I haue felt in England.
We coasted alongst the shoare in 10. September 1. faddomes, and when it cleered; in sight of land. At length the water shoalded to 6. and 5. fadd. and as it cleered, we saw it all breaches to Leeward: so we hull'd off, North North-east, but still raised land. By night, we had much adoe to get safely out of this dangerous Bay. At midnight, the winde came vp at South, and so we tooke in our sayles, and let the Ship driue to the Northward into deeper water. This day, was the first time, the Chirurgion told mee, that there were diuers of the men tainted with sicknesse. At noone, we were in latitude 55. 12.
The second, 2. we stood in againe for the shoare; but as we came in to shoald water, it began to blow: the weather being winterly and foule; threatning a storme: wherein we were not deceiued, for that in standing off, wee had a violent one. By midnight it broke vp; 3. and the third in the morning, wee stood in againe: and by a 11. wee saw it. Here wee found the land to trend South South-east and South: so that we knew, we were at a Cape Land: and named it Cape Henrietta Maria: by her Maiesties name; Who had before named our Ship. At noone, we were in latitude 55. 05. and that is the height of the Cape.
From Port Nelson to this Cape, the land trends (generally) East South-east, but makes with points and Bayes: which in the particulars doth alter it a point, two or three. The distance is about one hundred and thirtie leagues: the variation at this Cape taken by Amplitude, is about sixteene degrees. [Page 29] A most shoald and perilous coast: in which there is not one Harbour to be found.
The third day in the afternoone, 3. we had a tearing storme at North; which continued till midnight, in extreme violence.
The fourth in the morning (the storme being broke vp) we stood in againe, 4. South-West. The weather was very thicke, and we sounded continually: but by noone it cleered and we saw the land. Here it did trend South by East, and the tydes did set alongst it, with a quicke motion. In the euening, there came a great rowling Sea out of the North North-east, and by eight a clocke, it blew very hard at South-east, and by reason of the incounter of the winde and this great Sea: the Sea was all in a breach; and to make vp a perfect tempest, it did so lighten, snow, raine, and blow, all the night long, that I was neuer in the like: We shipt many Seas; but one most dangerous: which rackt vs fore and aft: that I verily thought it had sunke the Ship: It strooke her with such a violence. The Ship did labour most terribly in this distraction of winde and waues: and we had much adoe to keepe all things fast in the hold, and betwixt decks.
The fift in the morning, 5. the winde shifted South-West, but changed not his condition; but continued in his old anger and fury. In the afternoone, it shifted againe to the North-west, and there showed his vttermost malice; and in that tearing violence, that nor I, nor any that were then with mee, euer saw the Sea in such a breach. Our Ship was so tormented, and did so labour; with taking it in on both sides, and at both ends: that we were in a most miserable distresse, in this so vnknowne a place. At eight a clocke in the euening, the storme brake vp: and we had some quietnesse in the night following: not one hauing slept one winke in 30. houres before. If this storme had continued Easterly, as it was at first, without Gods goodnesse we had all perished.
The sixt, 6. the winde was at South-west, so that wee could do no good to the Westward. We spent the time therefore, in trimming of our Ship: we brought all our coales (which for the most part was great Coale) aft: as we also did some [Page 30] other things; and all to lighten her afore. Others did picke our bread; whereof there was much wet: for doe what we could, we shipt abundance of water betwixt decks: which ranne into the hold, and into our bread-roome: for the Sea, indeed, so continually ouer-rackt vs, that we were like Ionas in the Whales belly: We ouer-looked our Tacks and Shoots, with other Riggings of stresse: because that henceforward, we were to looke for no other but Winter weather: This euening our Boate-swayne (a painefull man, and one that had laboured extremely these two or three dayes) was very sicke: swouning away three or foure times: insomuch that wee thought verily, he would presently haue dyed.
The seuenth in the morning, 8. the winde came vp at South-east, and we stood away South-west, vnder all the sayle we could make. In this course, we saw an Iland and came close aboord it: and had twentie fadd. water, which was some comfort to vs: for hitherto, we could not come within foure or fiue leagues of the shoare, at that depth. This Iland stands in 54. 10. The afternoone, we stood away South-west, and in the euening, had the shoalding of the Westerne shoare, in 10. 8. and 7. fadd. but it was so thicke, that we could not see the land. It is about 14. leagues, betwixt this Iland and the Maine.
The eight was thicke, 9. foggie, and calme: which so continued till the ninth about sixe in the morning. The winde then comming vp at South South-west: (though very foggy) we stood to the Eastward: keeping our lead going continually. In the euening, the water shoalded to 10. and 9. fadd: wherefore we stood off and on, all night.
The tenth we made it: finding it an Iland, 10. of about 8. or 9. leagues long. It stands in latitude 53. 5. and about 15. leagues from the Westerne shoare. The part of it, that we coasted, trends West North-west: I named it my Lord Westons Iland; We stood still away to the Eastward: it being broken foggie weather. In the afternoone, we discryed land to the Eastward of vs: which made like three hils, or hummockes: Towards them we sayle; keeping our lead still going: [Page 31] and very circumspect. At length wee also saw land to the Southward of vs: whereupon we loofe vp, and now make for that: by course as we had set it in the thicke darke fogge. We came in amongst such low broken grounds, breaches, and rockes; that we knew not which way to turne vs: but God be thanked it was but little winde; and so we came to an Anker; Soone after it cleered; at which time we could see nothing but sands, rocks, and breaches, round about vs: that way onely excepted, which we came in. I sent presently the Boate to sound amongst the shoalds and rocks: that if wee should be put to extremitie, we might haue some knowledge which way to goe. This night prooued calme and faire weather: and we rid quietly.
The eleuenth in the morning, 11. I went in the Boate ashoare my selfe: and whilst I was a land, I sent the Boate about amongst the broken grounds, to sound. I found this Iland, vtterly barren of all goodnesse: yea of that which I thought easily to haue found: which was Scuruy-grasse, Sorrell, or some herbe or other, to haue refreshed our sicke people. I could not perceiue that the tyde did flow here (ordinarily) aboue two foot. There was much drift wood on the shore: and some of it droue vp very high, on the North side of the Iland: whereby I iudged that the stormes were very great at North, in the Winter. Thus I returned aboord; and sent many of our sicke men to another part of the Iland, to see if they themselues could fortunately finde any reliefe for their griefes. At noone, by good obseruation, we were in latitude 52. 45. In the euening, our men returned comfortlesse: and then we weyed and stood to the Westward, comming to an Anker vnder another Iland, in 20. faddomes.
The twelfth in the morning, 12. it began to blow hard at South-east, which was partly of the shoare; and the Ship began to driue: it being soft oozie ground. We heaued in our Anker thereupon, and came to sayle vnder two courses. Whilest the most were busie in heauing out of Top-sayles: some, that should haue had speciall care of the Ship ranne her ashoare vpon the rocks: out of meere carelesnesse, in looking [Page 32] out and about or heaving of the leade, after they had seene the land all night long, and mought euen then haue seene it, if they had not been blinded with selfe conceit, and beene enuiously opposite in opinions. The first blow, stroke me out of a dead sleepe, and I running out of my Cabbin; thought no other at first, but I had beene wakened (when I saw our danger) to prouide my selfe for another World.
After I had contrould a little passion in my selfe, and had checkt some bad counsell that was giuen me, to reuenge my selfe vpon those that had committed this error: I ordered what should be done to get off these Rockes and stones. First we halde all our sayle abacke-slayles; but that did no good, but make her beate the harder. Whereupon we strooke all our sayles amaine; and furdeld them vp close, tearing downe our sterne, to bring the Cable thorow the Cabbin to Capstang: and so laid out an Anker to heaue her asterne. I made all the water in hold to be stau'd: and set some to the pumpes to pumpe it out, and did intend to doe the like with our Beere; Others I put to throw out all our Coales: which was soone and readily done. We quoyld out our Cables into our long boate; all this while, the Ship beating so fearefully, that we saw some of the sheathing swim by vs. Then stood we, as many as we could, to the Capstang: and heaued with such a good will, that the Cable brake, and we lost our Anker. Out, with all speede, therefore, we put another: Wee could not now perceiue whether she did leake or no; and that by reason we were imployed in pumping out the water, which we had bulged in hold: though we much doubted, that she had receiued her deaths wound: wherefore we put into the Boate the Carpenters tooles, a barrell of bread, a barrell of powder, sixe muskets, with some match; and a tinder-boxe, fish, hookes and lines, pitch and okum: and to be breefe, what-euer could be thought on in such an extremity. All this we sent ashoare, to prolong a miserable life for a few dayes. We were fiue houres thus beating; in which time she strooke 100. blowes: insomuch that we thought euery stroke had bin the last that it was possible she could [Page 33] haue endured. The water, we could not perceiue in all this time, to flowe any thing at all: at length, it pleased God, she beat ouer all the Rockes: though yet wee knew not whether she were stanch. Whereupon, to pumping we goe on all hands, till we made the pumpes sucke: and then we saw how much water she did make in a glasse. VVe found her to be very leakie; but wee went to prayer and gaue God thankes it was no worse: and so fitted all things againe, and got further off and came to an Anker. In the Euening, it began to blow very hard at W. S. W. which if it had done whilest we were on the Rockes, we had lost our Ship without any redemption. With much adoe, we wayde our Anker, and let her driue to the Eastward amongst the broken grounds and Rockes: the boate going before, sounding. At length, we came amongst breaches; and the boate made signes to vs that there was no going further. Amongst the Rockes therefore we againe came to an Anker, where we did ride all night: and where our men which were tyred out with extreme labour, were indifferent well refreshed. Here I first noted, that when the wind was at S. it flowed very little or no water at all; so that we could not bring our Ship aground to looke to her: for we did pumpe almost continually.
The 13. at noone we wayed, 13. and stood to the Westward: but in that course, it was all broken grounds, shoaldes and sunken Rockes: so that we wondered with our selues, how we came in amongst them in a thicke fogge. Then we shapte our course to the North-ward: and after some consultation with my associates, I resolued to get about this land, and so to goe downe into the bottome of Hudsons Baye; and see if I could discouer a way into the Riuer of Canada: and if I failed of that, then to winter on the maine Land; where there is more comfort to be expected, then among Rockes or Ilands. We stood alongst the shoare, in sight of many breaches. When it was night, we stood vnder our fore-sayle; the leade still going. At last, the water shoalded vpon vs, to 10. fad. and it began to blow hard. We tackte about, and it did deepen to 12. and 14. fad. but by and by, it shoalded againe [Page 34] to 8. fad. Then we tackt about againe; and suddenly it shoalded to 6. and 5. fad. so wee strooke our sayle amaine, and chopt to an anker: resoluing to ride it out for life and death. We ridde all night a great stresse; so that our bittes did rise, and we thought they would haue beene torne to pieces.
At breake of day the 14. 14. we were ioyfull men: and when we could looke about, we discried an Iland some 2. leagues off, at W. by N. and this was the shoald that lay about it. Here did runne a distracted, but yet a very quicke Tyde: of which we taking the opportunity, got vp our Anker, and stood N. W. to cleere our selues of this shoald. In the afternoone, the wind came vp at N. E. and we stood alongst the Easterne shoare in sight of a multitude of breaches. In the Euening, it began to blow a storme not sayle-worthy; and the sea went very high, and was all in a breach. Our shallop, which we did now towe at sterne, being moord with two hawsers, was sunken: and did spine by her moorings, with her keele vp, 20. times in an houre. This made our ship to hull very broad; so that the sea did continually ouer-rake vs: yet we indured it, and thought to recouer her. All night, the storme continued with violence, and with some raine in the morning: it then being very thicke weather. The water shoalded apace; with such an ouer-growne sea withall, that a sayle was not to be endured: and what was as ill, there was no trusting to an Anker. Now therefore began we to prepare our selues, how to make a good end, of a miserable tormented life. About noone as it cleered vp, we saw two Ilands vnder our lee; whereupon we bare vp to them: and seeing an opening betwixt them, we indeauoured to get into it before night: for that there was no hope of vs, if we continued out at sea, that night. Therefore come life, come death, we must runne this hazzard. We found it to be a good sound: where we ridde all night safely, and recouered our strengths againe, which were much impared with continuall labour. But before we could get into this good place, our shallop broke away (being moord with 2. hawsers) and we lost her to our great griefe: Thus now had we but the Ship boate, [Page 35] and she was all torne and bruised too. This Iland was the same that we had formerly coasted the Wester side of; and had named my Lord Westons Iland. Here we remained till the 19. in which time it did nothing but snow and blow extremely, insomuch that we durst not put our boate ouerboord.
This 19. 19. The wind shifted N. N. E. and we wayde and stood to the Southward: but by noone the wind came vp at S. and so we came to an Anker vnder another Iland, on which I went ashoare, and named it The Earle of Bristols Iland. The Carpenter wrought hard in repairing our boate: whilest I wandered vp and downe on this desart Iland, I could not perceiue, that euer there had beene any Saluages on it: and in breefe, we could finde neither Fish, Fowle, nor Hearbe vpon it; so that I returned comfortlesse aboord againe. The tydes doe high about some 6. Foot: now that the wind is Northerly. The flood comes from the North: and it doth flow halfe tyde; The full sea this day, was at one a clocke. Here, seeing the windes continue so Northerly, that we could not get about to goe into Hudsons Baye; we considered againe what was best to doe, to looke out for a wintering place. Some aduised me to goe for Port Nelson: because we were certaine that there was a Coue, where we might bring in our Ship. I likte not that counsell; for that it is a most perilous place, and that it might be so long ere we could get thither, that we might be debard by the Ice. Moreouer, seeing it was so cold here, as that euery night our rigging did freeze: and that sometimes in the Morning, we did shouell away the snow halfe a foote thicke off our deckes: and in that Latitude too: I thought it farre worse in the other place. I resolued thereupon, to stand againe to the Southward, there to looke for some little Creeke or Coue for our Ship.
The 21. 21. the winde came vp at N. and we wayde: although it was a very thicke fogge, and stood away S. W. to cleere our selues of the shoalds that were on the point of this Iland. This Iland is in Lat. 53. 10. When we were cleere, we steerd away S. At noone the fogge turned into raine: but very [Page 36] thicke weather; and it did thunder all the afternoone: which made vs doubt a storme: for all which, wee aduentured to proceed. In the euening, the winde increased; and blew hard: wherefore we tooke in all our sayles, and let her driue to the Southward, heauing the lead euery glasse. Our depth, when we tooke in our sayles, was 30. fadd. and it did increase to 45▪ which was a great comfort to vs in the darke: At midnight, our depth began suddenly to decrease; and as fast as the lead could be heaued, it shoalded to 20. fadd. wherefore we chopt to an Anker and trimmed our Ship aft, to mount on the Sea, and fitted all things to ride it out. There was no need to bid our men watch; not one of them put his eyes together all the night long. We rid it out well all the night: although the Sea went very loftie: and that it did blow very hard.
The 22. in the morning, when we could looke about vs; we saw an Iland vnder our Lee some league off: 22. all being shoalds and breaches, betwixt vs and it. At noone (with the helpe of the windward tyde) we attempted to haue vp our Anker: although the Sea still went very loftie▪ Ioyning all our strengths therefore, with our best skils; God be thanked, we had it vp: but before we could set our sayles, wee were driuen into nine fadd. Indeauouring thereupon to double a point, to get vnder the Lee of this Iland; the water shoalded to 7. 6. and 5. fadd. but when we were about, it did deepen againe and we come to an Anker in a very good place; And it was very good for vs, that we did: for the winde increased to a very storme. Here wee rid well all the night, tooke good rest, and recouered our spent strengths againe. The last night and this morning, it did snow and hayle, and was very cold: neuerthelesse I tooke the Boate and went ashoare to looke for some Creeke or Coue to haue in our Ship; for shee was very leaky: and the company becomne sickly and weake, with much pumping and extreme labour. This Iland when wee came to the shoare; it was nothing but ledges of rocks, and bankes of sand: and there went a very great surfe on them. Neuerthelesse I made them rowe thorow it; and ashoare I got with two more, and made them rowe off without the [Page 37] breaches; and there to come to an Anker and to stay for mee: I made what speed I could to the top of a hill, to discouer about: but could not see what we looked for: Thus because it began to blow hard, I made haste towards the Boate againe. I found that it had ebbed so low, that the Boate could not by any meanes come neere the shoare for mee: so that we were faine to wade thorow the surfe and breaches to her: in which, some tooke such a cold, that they did complaine of it to their dying day. But now it began to blow hard, so that we could not get but little to windward toward our Ship: for the wind was shifted since we went ashoare, & return to the shoare, we could not, by reason of the surfe. Well: we row for life, they in the Ship, let out a Buoy by a long warpe; & by Gods assistancè we got to it: and so haled vp to the Ship; where we were well welcom'd, & we all reioyc'd together. This was a premonition to vs; to be carefull how we sent off the Boate; for that it was winter weather already. I named this Iland, Sir Thomas Roes Iland: It is full of small wood; but in other benefits not very rich: and stands in latitude 52. 10. At noone, we weyed: seeing an Iland that bare South South-east of vs, some foure leagues off; which was the highest land we had yet seene in this Bay: but as we came neere it, it suddenly shoalded to 6. 5. and 4. fadd. Wherefore we strooke our sayles amaine, and chopt to an Anker: but it was very foule ground, and when the Ship was winded vp, we had but three fadd. at her Sterne. As it cleered, we could see the breaches all alongst vnder our Lee: holding it safe therefore to stay long here; we settled euery thing in order, for the Ship to fall the right way. We had vp our Anker, got into deeper water; and stood ouer againe for Sir Thomas Roes Iland: which by night we brought in the winde of vs; some two leagues off: which did well shelter vs. The tydes runne very quicke here amongst these shoalds; and their times of running ebbe, or flood, be very vncertaine: Their currants, are likewise so distracted, that in the night there is no sayling by the Compasse: wherefore we were faine to seeke euery night some new place of securitie to come to an Anker.
[Page 38] The 24. 24. in the morning, it did lower, and threaten a storme: which made vs with the windward tyde, wey to get neerer vnder the Iland. It was very thicke foggie weather: and as we stood to the North-eastward, we came to very vncertaine depths: at one cast, 20. fadd. the next 7. then 10. 5. 8. and 3. and comming to the other tacke, we were worse then we were before, the Currants making a foole of our best iudgements, in the thicke fogge when we could see no land-marks. It pleased God, that we got cleere of them: and endeauoured to get vnder the Lee of the Iland. This being not able to doe, wee were faine to come to an Anker in 35. fadd. some two leagues off the shoare: All this afternoone (and indeed all night too) it did snow and hayle: and was very cold.
The 25. 25 wee weyed, and thought to get to the Eastward: but as wee tackt to and againe, the winde shifted so in our teeths, that it put vs within a quarter of a mile of the very shoare: where we chopt to an Anker and rid it out for life and death. Such miseries as these, we indured amongst these shoalds and broken grounds: or rather more desperate then I haue related: (very vnpleasant perchance to be read) with snow, haile, and stormy weather, and colder then euer I felt it in England in my life. Our shoote-Anker was downe twice or thrice a day: which extreme paines made a great part of the company sickly. All this lasted with vs, vntill the 30. of this moneth of September: which we thought would haue put an end to our miseries: for now we were driuen amongst rocks, shoalds, ouer-falles, and breaches round about vs; that which way to turne, we knew not; but there ride amongst them, in extremitie of distresse. All these perils, made a most hideous and terrible noyse, in the night season: and I hope it will not be accounted ridiculous, if I relate with what meditations I was affected, now and then, amongst my ordinary prayers: which I here affoord the Reader, as I there conceiued them; in these few ragged and teared Rimes.
[Page 40] The first of October was indifferent faire weather; October 1. and with a windward tyde, out went our Boate, to sound a channell to help vs out of this perilous place. The Boat, within two houres shee returned: and told vs, how shee had beene away where there was not lesse then 12. fadd. We presently, thereupon weyed; but found it otherwise: and came amongst many strange races, and ouer-falles, vpon which there went a very great and breaking Sea: As we proceeded, the water shoalded to 6. fadd. Well! there was no remedy, we must goe forward: happy be luckie; seeing there neither was any riding; and as little hope to turne any way with a sayle, but that there appeared present death in it. It pleased God so to direct vs, that we got thorow it: hauing no less then fiue seuerall, and all very vncertaine depths. The water, sometimes deepened to 20. fadd. then vpon a sudden, it shoalded to 7. 6. and 5. faddomes: so we strooke all our sayles amaine, and chopt to an Anker, where wee rid till midnight, for life and death: it blowing a mercilesse gale of winde, and the Sea going very loftie, and all in a breach. The ground was foule ground too, insomuch that wee doubted our Cable, euery minute.
The second in the morning was little winde: 2. wherefore taking the opportunitie of the tyde, the Boate went forth to sound: which returning againe in two houres, told vs how they had sounded about that shoald, and had found a place of some safetie to ride in; and had beene in no lesse water then fiue faddome. We weyed; and found our Cable galled in two places: which had soone failed vs, if the foule weather had continued. We stood the same way, that the Boat did direct vs: but it prooued so calme, that wee came to an Anker in 18. faddome. I tooke the Boate, and went ashoare on an Iland, that was to the Southward of vs: which I named, The Earle of Danbyes Iland: From the highest place in it, I could see it all broken grounds and shoalds, to the Southward: and rather worse, then any thing better, then that which we had beene in▪ I found that the Saluages had beene vpon it: and that it was full of wood. I made haste to the Boate to sound [Page 41] the Baye for feare of shoalds and sunken Rockes: but found it indifferent good. Toward the Euening, it began to blow hard: wherefore we made towards the Ship. She put forth a Buoy and a warpe; and we rowing for life to recouer her, were put to Lee-ward of her: but by getting hold of the warpe, we halde vp to her. The boate we left halfe full of water: our selues being as wet as drown'd rats; and it made vs the more reioyce, that we had escapt this great danger. All night, we had a very hard rode-steede; it blowing a most violent gale of wind, with snow and haile.
The third about noone, 3. the wind duld; and we had vp our Anker, standing in further into the Baye into foure fad. and a halfe water. Here we came againe to an Anker, with our second Anker: for many of our men are now sicke; and the rest so weakened, that we can hardly way our shoote-Anchor; I tooke the Boate, and went presently ashoare to see what comfort I could find; This was the first time, that I put foote on this Iland; which was the same that we did after winter vpon. I found the tracks of Deere, and saw some Fowle: but that that did reioyce me most, was, that I did see an opening into the Land, as if it had beene a riuer. To it we make with all speede, but found it to be barr'd; and not 2. foote water at full sea on the Barre: and yet within, a most excellent fine Harbour, hauing 4. fad. water. In the Euening I return'd aboord, bringing little comfort for our sicke men, more then hopes.
The 4. 4. it did snow and blow very hard; yet I got ashoare, and appointed the boate to goe to another place, (which made like a Riuer) and to sound it. In the meane time, I went with foure more, some 4. or 5. miles vp into the Countrey; but could find no releefe all that way for our sicke, but a few Berries onely. After we had well wearied our selues in the troublesome woods, wee return'd to the place I had appointed the boate to tarry for me: where at my comming I still found her, she hauing not beene where I had ordered her, for it had blowne such a fierce gale of wind, that she could not row to wind-ward. Thus we return'd aboord, with no good newes. [Page 42] It continued foule weather, with snow and haile, and extreme cold; till the 6. when with a fauouring winde, we stood in neerer to the shoare, and here moord the ship.
The 7. 7. it snow'd all day; so that we were faine to cleare it of the Decks with shouels; and it blew a very storme withall. It continued snowing and very cold weather, and it did so freeze, that all the bowes of the Ship, with her beake-head, was all Ice: about the Cable also, was Ice as bigge as a mans middle. The bowes of the boate were likewise frozen halfe a foote thicke, so that we were faine to hew and beate it off. The Sunne did shine very cleere; and we tore the top-sayles out of the tops, which were hard frozen in them, into a lumpe: so that there they hung a Sunning all day, in a very lumpe; the Sunne not hauing power to thawe one drop of them. After the Boate was fitted, we rowed towards the shoare: but could not come neere the place where we were vsed to land, for that it was all thickned water with the snow, that had fallen vpon the sands, that are dry at low water. This made it so difficult to row, that we could not set through it with 4. oares: yet something higher to the West-ward, we got ashoare. Seeing now the winter to come thus extremely on vpon vs, and that we had very little wood aboord; I made them fill the boate, and went aboord and sent the Carpenter and others to cut wood; others to carry it to the water side: whilest the boate brought it aboord, for I doubted that we were likely to be debar'd the shoare, and that we should not goe to and againe with the boate. It was miserable and cold already aboord the Ship: euery thing did freeze in the Hold, and by the fire side: Seeing therefore that we could no longer make vse of our sayles (which be the wings of a Ship) it raised a many of doubts in our mindes, that here we must stay and winter. After we had brought so much wood aboord, as we could conueniently stowe, and enough as I thought would haue lasted 2. or 3. moneths: The sicke men desired that some little house or houell might be built a shoare, whereby they might be the better sheltered, and recouer their healths. I tooke [Page 43] the Carpenter (and others whom I thought fit for such a purpose) and choosing out a place, they went immediately to worke vpon it. In the meane space, I my selfe accompanied with some others, wandered vp and downe in the Woods, to see if we could discouer any signes of Salvages, that so we might the better prouide for our safeties, against them. We found no appearance that there was any on this Iland▪ nor neere vnto it: The snow by this time was halfe legge high; and stalking through it, we returned comfortlesse to our Companions: who had all this time wrought well vpon our house. They aboord the Ship, tooke downe our top-sayles in the meane while, and made a great fire vpon the hearth in the hatch way; so that hauing well thaw'd them, they folded them vp, and put them betwixt deckes, that if we had any weather, they might bring them againe to yard: Thus in the Euening we returned aboord.
The 12. 12. we tooke our maine sayle from the yard which was hard frozen to it: and carryed it ashoare, to couer our house withall: being first faine to thawe it by a great fire; By night they had couered it; and had almost hedged it about: and the sixe builders did desire to lye in it ashoare that night, which I condiscended vnto: hauing first fitted them with Muskets and other furniture; and a charge to keepe good watch all night. Moreouer they had a shoare 2. Grey-hounds (a dogge and a bitch) which I had brought out of England, to kill vs some Deere, if happily we could finde any.
By the 13. 13. at night, our house was ready; and our sixe builders desired they might trauell vp into the Country to see what they could discouer.
The 14. 14. betimes in the morning, being fitted with munition, and their order to keepe together (but especially to seeke out some Creeke or Cove for our Ship) they departed. We aboord, tooke downe our two top-masts and their rigging: making account if we did remooue, to make vse of our foresayle and mizzen.
The 15. 15. in, the Euening our hunters returned very weary, [Page 44] and brought with them a small, leaue Deere, in 4. quarters: which reioyced vs all, hoping we should haue had more of them, to refresh our sicke men withall. They reported, that they had wandered aboue 20. miles, and had brought this Deere aboue 12. mile: and that they had seene 9. or 10. more: The last night, they had a very cold lodging in the woods; and so it appeard, for they lookt all almost starued, nor could they recouer themselues in 3. or 4. dayes after. They saw no signe of Salvages, nor of any rauening wild beasts, nor yet any hope of harbour.
The 17. 17. my Lieutenant and 5. more, desired they might try their fortunes in trauelling about the Iland. But they had farre worse lucke then the others, although they endured out all night, and had wandered very farre in the snow (which was now very deepe) and returned comfortlesse and miserably disabled with the coldnesse. But what was worse then all this, they had lost one of their company, Iohn Barton, namely our Gunners mate; who being very weary, meerly to saue the going about, had attempted to goe ouer a pond that was a quarter of a mile over; where when he was in the very middest, the Ice brake and closed vpon him, and we neuer saw him more. Considering these disasters, I resolued to fish no more with a golden hooke: for feare, I weakned my selfe more with one hunting, then 20. such deare Deeres could doe me good. Being now assured, that there was no Salvages vpon the Iland, nor yet about vs on the other Ilands: no nor on the maine neither, as farre as we could discouer, (which we further proued by making of fires) and that the cold season was now in that extremity, that they could not come to vs, if there were any: we comforted and refreshed our selues, by sleeping the more securely. We changed our Iland garrison, euery weeke; and for other refreshing we were like to haue none till the Spring.
From this 10. to the 29. it did (by interims) snow and blow so hard, that the boate could hardly aduenture ashoare, and but seldome land, vnlesse the men did wade in the thicke congealed water, carrying one another. We did sensibly perceiue [Page 45] withall, how wee did daily sinke into more miseries. The land was all deepe couered with snow; the cold did multiply; and the thicke snow water did increase: and what would become of vs, our most mercifull God and preseruer knew onely.
The 29. 29. I obserued an Eclipse of the Moone, with what care possibly I could both in the tryall of the exactnesse of our instruments, as also in the obseruation: I referre you to the obseruation in the latter end of this Relation: where it is at large described. This moneth of October ended with snow and bitter cold weather.
The first of November I cast vp accounts with the Steward concerning our victuall: November 1. the third part of our time being this day out. I found him an honest man: for he gaue me an account euery weeke what was spent; and what was still in the hold remaining vnder his hand: I would take no excuse of leakage or other waste; vnlesse he did daily show it me. Euery month, I made a new suruey; and euery sixe moneths, put what we had spared, by it selfe: which now was at least a moneths prouision of Bread; and a fortnights of Pease and Fish, &c.
The 3. 3. day the boate indeauoured to get ashoare; but could not set thorow the thicke congealed water.
The 4. 4. they found a place to get ashoare; and so once in 2. or 3. dayes, till the 9. bringing Beere to our men ashoare in a barrell, which would freeze firmely in the house in one night. Other prouision they had store. The Ice Beere being thaw'd in a kettell, was not good: and they did breake the Ice of the pondes of water, to come by water to drinke. This pond-water had a most lothsome smell with it: so that doubting lest it might be infectious, I caused a Well to be sunke neere the house. There we had very good water: which did taste (as we flattered our selues with it) euen like milke.
The 10. 10. (hauing store of boordes for such a purpose) I put the Carpenter to worke, to make vs a little boate which we might carry (if occasion were) ouer the Ice and make vse of [Page 46] her, where there was water. At noone I tooke the Latitude of this Iland, by 2. Quadrants: which I found to be 52. 00. I vrged the men to make traps to catch Foxes: for we did daily see many. Some of them were pied, blacke and white: whereby I gathered that there was some blacke Foxes; whose skinnes, I told them, were of a great value: and I promised, that whosoeuer could take one of them, should haue the skinne for his reward: Hereupon, they made diuers traps: and waded in the snow (which was very deepe) to place them in the woods.
The 12. 12. our house tooke a fire, but we soone quenched it: We were faine to keepe an extraordinary fire, night and day: and this accident, made me order a watch to looke to it continually: seeing, that if our house and clothing should be burnt, that all we were but in a woefull condition. I lay ashoare, till the 17. all which time, our miseries did increase. It did snow and freeze most extremely. At which time, we looking from the shoare towards the Ship, she did looke like a piece of Ice, in the fashion of a Ship: or a Ship resembling a piece of Ice. The snow was all frozen about her; and all her fore-part firme Ice: and so was she on both sides also. Our Cables froze in the hawse, wonderfull to behold. I got me aboord: where the long nights I spent, with tormenting cogitations: and in the day time, I could not see any hope of sauing the Ship. This I was assured of, that it was most impossible to endure these extremities long. Euery day the men must beare the Ice off the Cables: while some within boord; with the Carpenters long Calking Iron, did digge the Ice out of the hawses: in which worke, the water would freeze on their clothes and hands, and would so benumme them, that they could hardly get into the Ship, without being heau'd in with a rope.
The 19. 19. our Gunner (who as you may remember, had his legge cut off) did languish vnrecouerably: and now grew very weake: desiring, that for the little time he had to liue, hee might drinke Sacke altogether, which I ordered hee should doe.
[Page 47] The 22. 22. in the morning he dyed. An honest and a stronghearted man. Hee had a close-boorded Cabbin in the Gunroome; which was very close indeed: and as many clothes on him, as was conuenient (for we wanted no clothes:) and a panne with coales, a fire continually in his Cabbin. For all which warmth, his playster would freeze at his wound, and his bottle of Sacke at his head. We committed him at a good distance from the Ship vnto the Sea.
The three and twentieth, 23. the Ice did increase extraordinarily: and the snow lay on the water in flakes, as it did fall, much Ice withall droue by vs: yet nothing hard all this while. In the euening after the watch was set, a great piece came athwart our hawse; and foure more followed after him: the least of them a quarter of a mile broad: which in the darke did very much astonish vs, thinking it would haue carried vs out of the Harbour, vpon the shoalds Easter point, which was full of rocks. It was newly congealed, a matter of two inches thicke: and wee broke thorow it, the Cable and Anker induring an incredible stresse, sometimes stopping the whole Ice. We shot off three Muskets, signifying to our men ashoare, that we were in distresse: who answered vs againe, but could not helpe vs. By ten a clocke, it was all past; neuerthelesse wee watched carefully: and the weather was warmer then wee had felt it any time this moneth. In the morning at breake of day, I sent for our men aboord, who made vp the house, and arriued by 10. being driuen by the way, to wade thorow the congealed water; so that they recouered to the Boate, with difficultie. There droue by the Ship many pieces of Ice, though not so large as the former, yet much thicker: One piece came foule of the Cable, and made the Ship driue.
As soone as we were cleere of it, we ioyned our strengths together, and had vp our Eastermost Anker: and now I resolued to bring the Ship aground: for no Cables nor Ankers could hold her: But I will here show you the reasons, why I brough her no sooner aground. First, it was all stony ground: some stones lying dry, three or foure foot aboue water: so [Page 48] that it was to be suspected, that it was the like all about vs. Secondly, it did ordinarily flow but two foot and a halfe here; and if shee should bed deepe in the sands, we could not euer come to digge her out againe: for that shee would not be dry, by foure or fiue foot. Thirdly, it was a loose sand which might rise with the surfe, or so mount about her: that all our weake powers could not heaue it away in the next spring time. Fourthly, we doubted the tydes would not high so much in the summer, as they did now. Fifthly, we could not bring her out of the tydes way; which doth runne something quicke here: and the Ice, besides, might driue and mount vp vpon her, and so ouerset her, or teare her, and carry away her plankes, iron works and all: so that we should haue nothing left to finish our Pinnasse with. Sixtly, if it did blow a storme at North-west, or thereabouts; the water would flow ten foot, and vpwards: and that winde being of the shoare, it would blow away all the Ice, and there would come in an extraordinary great surfe about the shoald Ester-point; which was occasioned by a deepe ouerfall. Moreouer, shee would beate extremely: and if shee were put vp by the Sea or that surfe, it was very doubtfull that we should neuer haue her off againe. For these reasons we endured all the extremitie: still hoping vpon some good and fortunate accident. But now all our prouident designs we saw to become foolishnesse; and that a great deale of miserable labour had beene spent in vaine by vs. With the flood wee weyed our Westermost Anker, perceiuing Gods assistance manifestly: because it happened to be fine warme weather, otherwise we had not beene able to worke. The winde was now South: which blew in vpon the shoare; and made the lowest tydes. We brought the Ship into 12. foot water: and layd out one Anker in the Offing, and another in shoald water, to draw her aland at command. Our hope also was, that some stones that were to the Westward of vs, would fend off some of the Ice. We then being about a mile from the shoare, about ten a clocke in the darke night, the Ice came driuing vpon vs; and our Ankers came home. She droue some two Cables length: and the winde blowing on [Page 49] the shoare, by two a clock she came aground; and stopt much Ice: yet shee lay well all night, and we tooke some rest.
The fiue and twentieth, 25. the winde shifted Easterly: and put abundance of Ice on vs. When the flood was made, we incouraged one another, and to worke we goe: drawing home our Ankers by maine force, vnder great pieces of Ice, our endeuour being to put the Ship to the shoare. But to our great discomforts, when the halfe tyde was made; (which was two houres before high water) the Ship droue amongst the Ice to the Eastward (doe what we could) and so would haue on the shoald Rockes. As I haue formerly said, these two dayes and this day, was very warme weather: and it did raine, which it had not yet but once done, since wee came hither: otherwise, it had beene impossible we could haue wrought. Withall, the wind shifted also to the South: and at the very infant, blew a hard puffe: which so continued for halfe an houre. I caused our two Top-sailes to be had vp from betwixt deckes, and wee hoyst them vp with ropes in all haste, and we forst the Ship ashoare, when she had not halfe a Cables length to driue on the Rocky shoalds. In the Euening wee broke way thorow the Ice, and put an Anker to shoareward in fiue foot water: to keepe her to the shoare, if possible it might be. Here Sir Hugh Willoughby came into my mind, who without doubt was driuen out of his Harbour in this manner, and so starued at sea. But God was more mercifull to vs. About nine a clocke at night, the winde came vp at North-West, and blew a very storme. This winde was of the shoare: which blew away all the Ice from about vs, long before we were afloat. There came in a great rowling Sea withall, about the point; accompanied with a great surfe on the shoare. And now were we left to the mercy of the Sea, on the ground. By tenne, she began to rowle in her docke: and soone after, began to beate against the ground. We stood at the Capstang, as many as could: others at the Pumpes: for we thought that euery fift or sixt blow would haue staued her to pieces. We heaued to the vttermost of our strengths, to keepe her as neere the ground [Page 50] as we could. By reason of this wind, it flowed very much water: and we drew her vp so high, that it was doubtfull, if euer we should get her off againe. She continued thus beating, till two a clocke the next Morning, and then she againe settled. Whereupon wee went to sleepe, to restore nature: seeing the next tyde we expected to be againe tormented.
The sixe and twentieth, 26. in the morning tyde, our Ship did not floate; whereby we had some quietnesse. After prayers, I cald a consultation of the Master, my Lieutenant, the Mates, Carpenter, and Boate-swayne; to whom I proposed, that now we were put to our last shifts; and therefore they should tell me what they thought of it: Namely, whether it were not best, to carry all our prouision ashoare: and that when the winde should come northerly, it were not safest to draw her further off, and sinke her. After many reasonings they allowed of my purpose: and so I communicated it to the Company, who all willingly agreed to it. And so we fell to getting vp of our prouisions: first our bread, of which we landed this day two Dryfats with a Hogshead of Beefe: hauing much adoe to set the Boate thorow the thicke congealed water. In the Euening, the winde came vp at North-East, and East: and fild the Bay choakefull of Ice.
The twenty seuenth, 27. the Bay continued full of Ice, which I hoped would so continue and freeze, that we should not be put to sinke our Ship. This day we could land nothing.
The twenty eighth, 28. at breake of day, three of our men went ashoare ouer the Ice, vnknowne to mee: and the winde comming vpat West, droue the Ice from betwixt vs and the shoare, and most part out of the Bay also: And yet not so, that the Boate could goe ashoare for anything. I made the Carpenter fit a place against all sudden extremities: for that with the first North-West, or northerly wind, I meant to effect our last proiect. In the runne of her, on the starboord side; he cut away the sealing and the planke to the sheathing, some foure or fiue inches square; some foure [Page 51] foote high from the keele of her, that so it might be boared out, at an instant. We brought our bread which was remayning in the Bread-roome, vp into the great Cabbin; and likewise all our powder; setting much of our light dry things betwixt deckes.
The nine and twentieth at fiue a Clocke in the Morning, 29. the winde came vp at West North-West, and began to blow very hard. It was ordinary for the wind to shift from the West by the North, round about. So first I orderd the Cooper to goe downe in hold, and looke to all our Caske: those that were full, to mawle in the bungs of them: those that were empty, to get vp, or if they could not be gotten vp, to staue them. Then to quoile all our Cables vpon our lower tyre: and to lay on our spare Ankers, and any thing that was weighty, to keepe it downe from rising. By seuen a Clocke, it blew a storme at North-West, our bitter enemy. The Ship was already bedded some two foote in the sand, and whilst that was a flowing, shee must beate. This I before had in my consideration: for I thought she was so farre driuen vp, that we should neuer get her off. Yet we had bin so ferrited by her last beating, that I resolued to sinke her right downe, rather then runne that hazzard. By nine a cloke, she began to rowle in her docke, with a most extraordinary great Sea that was come; which I found to be occasioned by the formentioned ouerfall. And this was the fatall houre, that put vs to our wits end. Wherefore I went downe in hold with the Carpenter, and tooke his auger and board a hole in the Ship, and let in the water. Thus with all speed, we began to cut out other places, to boare thorow, but euery place was full of nailes. By tenne, notwithstanding, the lower tyre was couered with water, for all which, she began so to beate in her docke, more and more: that we could not worke, nor stand to doe any thing in her. Nor would she sinke so fast as we would haue her: but continued beating double blowes; first abaft, and then before, that it was wonderfull, how she could indure a quarter of an houre with it. By twelue a clocke, her lower Tyre rose: and that [Page 52] did so counter-beate on the inside, that it beat the bulke heads of the Bread-roome, powder-roome, and fore piece, all to pieces: and when it came betwixt deckes, the chests fled wildly about: and the water did flash and flie wonderfully: so that now we expected euery minute, when the Ship would open and breake to pieces. At one a clocke shee beat off her Rudder: and that was gone, we knew not which way. Thus shee continued beating, till three a clocke: and then the Sea came vp on the vpper decke: and soone after, shee began to settle. In her, wee were faine to sinke the most part of our bedding and clothes: and the Chirurgions Chest with the rest. Our men that were ashoare, stood looking vpon vs: almost dead with cold, and sorrowes to see our misery and their owne. We lookt vpon them againe: and both vpon each other with woefull hearts. Darke night drew on; and I bade the Boate to be haled vp; and commanded my louing companions to goe all into her: who (in some refusing complements) expressed their faithfull affections to mee; as loth to part from me. I told them, that my meaning was to goe ashoare with them. And thus, lastly, I forsooke the Ship.
We were seuenteene poore soules, now in the Boate: and we now imagined that we were leapt out of the Frying pan into the fire: The ebbe was made; and the water extraordinary thicke congealed, with snow: so that we thought assuredly, it would carry vs away into the Sea. We thereupon doublemand foure oares: appointing foure more to sit ready with oares: and so with the helpe of God we got to the shoare; haling vp the Boate after vs. One thing was most strange, in this thicke water: namely, That there went a great swelling Sea. Being arriued vpon the land, we greeted our fellowes the best we could: at which time they could not know vs, nor we them by our habits nor voyces: so frozen all ouer wee were, faces, haire, and apparell. And here I meane to take breath awhile, after all this long and vnpleasant Relation of our miserable endeauours: Crauing leaue first of all to speake a word or two in generall.
The winds, since we came hither, haue beene very variable [Page 53] and vnconstant: and till within this fortnight, the Southerly winde was the coldest. The reason I conceiue to be, for that it did blow from the Maine land; which was all couered with snow: and for that the North winds came out of the great Bay which hitherto was open. Adde to that; we were now vnder a South Banke which did shelter vs: so that we were not so sensible of it.
A North-west, a North-west by North, and a North-North-west winde (if it blew a storme) would raise the Tydes extraordinarily: and in briefe, from the West Northwest, to the North North-east; would raise the tydes in proportion, as they did blow from the middle point: The wind being on the opposite points (if it blew) it would flow very little at all. The harder it blew, the lesse water it would flow. If it were little winde, or calme; it would flow indifferently. The tydes doe high ordinarily (without being forced) about three foot: but being forced with the forementioned winds; vpward of ten foot. I could perceiue no difference betwixt Neape and spring tydes: It flowes halfe tyde: that is; the flood comes from the Northward: and thither returnes againe, two houres before it be high water: and it is commonly so seene, in most Bayes or Inlets.
The VVintering.
AFter we had haled vp the Boate, we went alongst the breach side in the darke, towards our house, where we made a good fire, and with it, and bread and water, wee thawde and comforted our selues, beginning after that to reason one with another, concerning our Ship. I requir'd that euery one should speak his mind freely. The Carpenter, (especially) was of the opinion, that she was founderd; and would neuer be seruiceable againe. He alledged, that she had so beaten, that it was not possible, but that all her Ioints were loose, and seames open: and that by reason it flowed so little water, and no Creeke nor Coue being neere, wherein to bring her aground, he could not deuise how he might come to mend it. Moreouer, her Rudder was lost, and he had no Iron-worke to hang on another. Some alledged, that we had heaued her vp so high vpon the sands, that they thought we should neuer haue her off againe: and that they were assured she was already dockt three foote. Others, that she lay in the Tydes way; and that the Ice might teare her to pieces off the ground: besides which, two of our Ankers we could not now get from vnder the Ice: which when the Ice brake (which would be of a great thickenesse by the Spring) would breake our Ankers to pieces, and then we should haue [Page 55] no Ankers to bring vs home withall: supposed we got off the ship, & that she proued sound also. I comforted them the best I could with such like words: My Masters and faithfull Companions: be not dismaide for any of these disasters, but let vs put our whole trust in God. It is he that giueth, and he that taketh away: he throwes downe with one hand, and raiseth vp with another. His will be done. If it be our fortunes to end our dayes here, we are as neere heauen, as in England; and we are much bound to God Almighty for giuing vs so large a time of repentance, who as it were dayly calls vpon vs, to prepare our solues for a better life in heauen. I make no doubt, but he will be mercifull to vs, both here on earth, and in his blessed Kingdome: he doth not in the meane time deny, but that we may vse all honest meanes to saue and prolong our naturall liues withall: and in my Iudgement, we are not yet so farre past hope of returning into our natiue Countries, but that I see a faire way by which wee may effect it. Admit the Ship be foundered (which God forbid, I hope the best) yet haue those our owne nation, and others, when they haue beene put to these extremities, euen out of the wracke of their lost Ship, built then a Pinnasse, and recouered to their friends againe. If it be obiected, that they haue happened into better Climats, both for temperatenesse of the ayre, and for pacificke and open Seas: and provided withall, of abundance of fresh victuall: yet there is nothing too hard for couragious minds: which hitherto you haue showne, and I doubt not will still doe, to the vttermost.
They all protested to worke to the vttermost of their strength, and that they would refuse nothing that I should order them to doe, to the vttermost hazzard of their liues. I thanke them all: and to the Carpenter for his cheerefull vndertaking, I promised to giue him so much plate presently, as should be worth ten pound sterling: and if so be I went to England in the Pinnasse, I would giue her him freely, and fifty pounds in mony ouer and aboue, and would moreouer gratifie all them, that I should see painefull and industrious. [Page 56] Thus we then resolued, to build vs a new Pinnasse, with the timber we should get vpon the Iland: that so in the spring, if we found not the Ship seruiceable; wee might teare her vp, and planke her with the Ships planks. And so for this night we settled our selues close about the fire: and tooke some rest till day-light.
The thirtieth betimes in the morning, 30. I caused the Chirurgion to cut the haire of my head short, and to shaue away all the haire of my face: for that it was become intolerable; and that it would be frozen so great with Ice-sickles.
The like did all the rest: Nouember. and we fitted our selues to worke. The first thing we were to doe, was to get our clothes and prouisions ashoare: and therefore I deuided the company. The Master and a conuenient company with him, were to goe aboord; and to get things out of Hold. The Cock-swaine with his ging, were to goe in the Boate, to bring and carry things ashoare. My selfe with the rest, to carry it halfe a mile thorow the snow, vnto the place where we intended to build a Store-house; As for the heauier things, we purposed to lay them vpon the Beache. In the afternoone, the winde was at South South-west, and the water veerd to so low an ebbe, that we thought we might get something out of our Hold: we lanched our Boate therefore: and with oares, set thorow the thicke congealed water: It did freeze extreme hard: and I did stand on the shoare with a troubled minde, thinking verily that with the ebbe the Boate would be carried into the Sea; and that then wee were all lost men. But by Gods assistance they got safely to the Ship and made a fire there, to signifie their arriuall aboord. They fell presently to worke; and got something out of the Hold, vpon the decks: but night comming on, they durst not aduenture to come ashoare, but lay on the bed in the great Cabbin, being almost starued.
The first of December was so cold, December 1. that I went the same way ouer the Ice to the Ship, where the Boate had gone yesterday. This day we carried vpon our backs in bundles 500. of our fish: and much of our bedding and clothes; which we were faine to digge out of the Ice.
[Page 57] The second was milde weather: 2. and some of the men going ouer the Ice, fell in, and very hardly recouered: so that this day we could land nothing, neither by Boate nor backe: I put them therfore to make vs a Store-house ashoare. In the euening, the winde came vp at West: and the Ice did breake and driue out of the Bay: It was very deepe and large Ice: that we much doubted it would haue spoyled the Ship.
The third day, 3. there were diuers great pieces of Ice that came athwart the Ship: and shee stopt them, yet not so, that we could goe ouer them. We found a way for the Boat: but when shee was loaden, shee drew foure foot water, and could not come within a slight-shot of the shoare. The men therefore must wade thorow the thicke congealed water; and carry all things out of the Ship vpon their backs. Euery time they waded in the Ice, it so gathered about thē, that they did seeme like a walking piece of Ice, most lamentable to behold. In this extreme cold euening, they cut away as much Ice from about the Boate as they could, and pickt it with hand-spikes out of her, and endeauouring to hoyse her into the Ship. There being small hope, that shee could goe to and againe any more. But vse what meanes they could, shee was so heauy, that they could not hoyse her in: but were faine there to leaue her in the tackles by the Ships side.
The fourth being Sunday, 4. we rested; and performed the Sabbath duties of a Christian.
The fift and sixt were extreme cold: 5. & 6. and wee made bags of our store shirts: and in them carried our loose bread ouer the Ice ashoare vpon our backs. We also digged our clothes and new sayles with hand-spikes of iron, out of the Ice: and carried them ashoare, which we dryed by a great fire.
The seuenth day was so extremely cold, 7. that our noses, cheekes, and hands, did freeze as white as paper.
The eighth and ninth, 8. & 9. it was extreme cold; and it did snow much, yet we continued our labour; in carrying and rowling things ashoare. In the euening the water raised the Ice very high: and it did breake two thoughts of our Boat: and breake in the side of her: but for that time, we could not helpe it.
[Page 58] The tenth, 10. our Carpenter found timber to make a Keele, and a Sterne for our Pinnace: the rest wrought about our provisions, vntill the 13. day: and that we spent in digging our boate out of the Ice: which we were faine to doe to the very Keele: and dig the Ice out of her, and then we got her vp on the Ice: in which doing, many had their noses, cheekes and fingers, frozen as white as paper. The cold now increased most extremely. By the 19. we could get no more things out of our Hold: but were faine to leaue 5. barrels of Beefe and Porke, all our Beere; and diuers other things: which were all firme frozen in her.
The one and twentieth was so cold, 21 that we could not goe out of the house.
The three and twentieth we went to haue our boate ashoare; 23. running her ouer our oares: but by 10. a clocke there came such a thicke fogge, that it was as darke as night. I made them giue ouer, and make what haste we could to the shoare: which we had much adoe to finde, for the time, losing one another. At the last we met all at the house, the miserablest frozen, that can bee conceiued. Vpon divers, had the cold raised blisters as bigge as wall-nuts. This we imagined to come, by reason that they came too hastily to the fire. Our Well was now frozen vp: so that digge as deepe as we could, we can come by no water. Melted snow-water is very vnwholsome: either to drinke or to dresse our victuals. It made vs so short-breathed, that we were scarce able to speake. All our Sacke, Vineger, Oyle, and euery thing else that was liquid, was now frozen as hard as a piece of wood, and we must cut it with a hatchet. Our house was all frozen on the inside, and it froze hard within a yard of the fires side. When I landed first vpon this Iland, I found a spring vnder a hils side: which I then obseruing, had caused some trees to be cut for markes to know the place againe by. It was about three quarters of a mile from our house. I sent 3. of our men which had beene formerly with me, thither vpon the 24. These wading thorow the snow, at last found the place, and shoueling away the snow, they made way to [Page 59] the very head of it. They found it spring very strongly: and brought me a Can of it, for which I was right ioyfull. This spring continued all the yeere; and did not freeze: but that we could breake the Ice and come to it. We labor'd very hard, these three or foure dayes, to get wood to the house, which we found to be very troublesome, through the deepe snow.
Wee then settled our bedding and prouisions, providing to keepe Christmas day holy: which we solemnized in the ioyfullest manner we could: So likewise did we Saint Iohns day: vpon which we named the wood we did winter in, in memory of that Honourable Knight Sir Iohn Winter, Winters Forrest. And now in stead of a Christmas Tale, I will here describe the house that we did liue in, with those adioyning.
When I first resolued to build a house, I chose the most warmest and conuenientest place and the neerest the Ship withall. It was amongst a tuft of thicke trees, vnder a South banke; about a flight-shot from the Seas side. True it is, that at that time we could not digge into the ground, to make vs a Hole or Caue in the earth, (which had been the best way) because we found water within 2. foote digging: and therefore that proiect fail'd. It was a white light sand; so that we could by no meanes make vp a mud-wall. As for stones, there were none neere vs: which, moreouer, were all now couered with the snow. We had no boords for such a purpose; and therefore, we must doe the best we could, with such materials as we had about vs.
The house was square; about 20. foote euery way: as much namely, as our mayne-Course could well couer: first we droue strong stakes into the earth, round about: which we watteled with boughes, as thicke as might be, beating them downe very close. This our first worke was sixe foote high on both sides, but at the ends, almost vp to the very top. There we left 2. holes, for the light to come in at: and the same way the smoke did vent out also. Moreouer, I caused at both ends, three rowes of thicke bush trees: to be stucke [Page 60] vp, as close together as mought be possibly. Then at a distance from the house, we cut downe trees: proportioning them into lengths of sixe foote; with which we made a pile on both sides, sixe foote thicke, and sixe foote high: but at both ends, tenne foote high, and sixe foote thicke: We left a little low doore to creepe into; and a portall before that, made with piles of wood, that the wind might not blow into it. We next of all fastned a rough tree aloft ouer all: vpon which we laid our rafters; and our Mayne Course ouer those againe: which lying thwart-wayes ouer all, did reach downe to the very ground, on either side. And this was the Fabricke of the out-side of it. On the inside, we made fast our bonnet sayles, round about. Then we droue in stakes and made vs bed-stead frames; about three sides of the house: which bed-steads were double, one vnder another: the lower-most, being a foote from the ground: These, we first fild with boughes, then we layd some spare sayles on that, and then our bedding and clothes. We made a Hearth or Causie in the middle of the house, and on it, made our fire: some boords wee layd round about our Hearth, to stand vpon: that the cold dampe should not strike vp into vs. With our Wast-clothes, we made vs Canopies and Curtaines: others did the like with our small sayles. Our second house was not past 20. foote distant from this, and made for the watteling much after the same manner, but it was lesse, and couered with our fore-Course: It had no pyles on the South side: but in liew of that, we pilde vp all our Chests, on the inside: and indeed the reflexe of the heate of the fire against them, did make it warmer then the Mansion house. In this house, we drest our victuall: and the subordinate crue did refresh themselues all day in it. A third house, (which was our store-house) we likewise made, some twenty paces off from this; for feare of firing. This house was onely a rough tree fastened aloft: with rafters layd from it to the ground, and couered ouer with our new suite of sailes. On the inside, we had laid small trees, and couered them ouer with boughes: and so stor'd vp our [Page 61] Bread, and Fish in it; about two foote from the ground: the better to preserue them. Other things lay more carelessely.
Long before Christmas, our mansion house was couered thicke ouer with Snow: almost to the very roofe of it. And so likewise was our second house: but our Store-house, all ouer: by reason we made no fire in it. Thus we seemed to liue in aheape, and Wildernesse of Snow; forth adores we could not go, but vpon the snow: in which we made vs paths middle deepe in some places: and in one speciall place, the length of tenne steps. To doe this, we must shouell away the Snow first; and then by treadding, make it something hard vnderfoote: The Snow in this path, was a full yard thicke vnder vs. And this was our best gallery for the sicke-men: and for mine owne ordinary walking. And both houses and walkes, we did daily accommodate more and more, and make fitter for our vses.
The twenty seuenth, 27. we got our Boate ashore: and fetcht vp some of our prouisions from the beach side into the Store-house: and so by degrees did we with therest of our prouisions: with extremity of cold and labour, making way with shouels thorow the deepe Snow; euen from the Sea-side vnto our Store-house. And thus concluded we the old yeere. 1631.
Ianuary, 1632.
The first of Ianuary (and for the most part all the moneth) was extreme cold.
The sixth, 6. I obserued the latitude, with what exactnesse I could (it being very cleere Sun-shine weather) which I found to be 51. 52. This difference, is by reason that here is a great Refraction.
The one and twentieth, 21. I obserued the Sunne to rise like an Ouall, alongst the Horizon: I cald three or foure to see it, the better to confirme my Iudgement: and we all agreed, that it was twice as long as it was broad. We plainely perceiued [Page 62] withall, that by degrees as it gate vp higher, it also recouered his roundnesse.
The sixe and twentieth, 26. I obserued, when the Easterne edge of the Moone did touch the Planet Mars, the Lions heart was then in the East quarter 21. 45. aboue the Horizon: but all this was not done with that exactnesse, that I haue done other obseruations.
The thirtieth and one and thirtieth, 30. & 31. there appeared in the beginning of the night, more Starres in the firmament, then euer I had before seene by two thirds. I could see the Cloud in Cancer full of small Starres: and all the via lactea, nothing but small Starres: and amongst the Plyades, a great many small Starres. About tenne a Clocke, the Moone did rise; and then a quarter of them was not to be seene. The wind for the most part of this month, hath beene Northerly, and very cold: the warmest of which time wee imployed our selues in fetching Wood, working vpon our Pinnasse and other things that happened. In the beginning of this moneth, the Sea was all firmely frozen ouer, so that we could see no water any way. I hope it will not seeme tedious to the Readers, if I here deliuer mine owne opinion, how this abundance of Ice comes to be ingendered.
The Land that encircles this great Bay, (which lyes in a broken Irregular forme, making many little shoald Bayes, and Guts, being, moreouer, full of Ilands and dry sands) is for the most part low and flat, and hath flat shoalds adioyning to it, halfe a mile or a mile, that are dry at low water. Now you must know, that it flowes halfe tyde (as I haue often experienced) that is, from whence the flood commeth, the water thither returneth, two houres before it be high water, or full Sea. It seldome raines, after the middle of September: but snowes: and that Snow will not melt on the Land nor Sands; At low water when it snowes (which it doth very often) the sands are all couered ouer with it; which the halfe tyde carries officiously (twice in twentie foure houres) into the great Bay, which is the common Rendezvous of it, Euery low water, are the sands left cleere, to gather [Page 63] more to the increase of it. Thus doth it daily gather together in this manner, till the latter end of October, and by that time hath it brought the Sea to that coldnesse, that as it snows, the snow will lye vpon the water in flakes without changing his colour; but with the winde is wrought together; and as the winter goes forward, it begins to freeze on the surface of it, two or three inches or more in one night: which being carried with the halfe tyde, meets with some obstacle, (as it soone doth) and then it crumples and so runnes vpon it selfe, that in a few houres it will be fiue or sixe foote thicke. The halfe tyde still flowing, carries it so fast away, that by December it is growne to an infinite multiplication of Ice. And thus by this storing of it vp, the cold gets the predomination in the Sea (which also furnisheth the Springs and water, in the low flat lands) that it cooles it like it selfe. This may appeare by our experience, though in all this, I freely submit my selfe vnto the better learned. Our men found it more mortifying cold to wade thorow the water in the beginning of Iune when the Sea was all full of Ice; then in December, when it was increasing. Our Well, moreouer, out of which we had water in December, we had none in Iuly.
The ground at ten foote deepe, was frozen. The quantitie of the Ice, may very easily be made to appeare, by Mathematicall Demonstration: and yet I am not of the opinion, that the Bay doth freeze all ouer. For the one and twentieth, the winde blowing a storme at North, we could perceiue the Ice to rise something in the Bay.
February, 1632.
The cold was as extreme this moneth, as at any time we had felt it this yeere: and many of our men complained of infirmities. Some, of sore mouthes; all the teeth in their heads being loose, their gums swolne, with blacke rotten flesh; which must euery day be cut away. The paine was so sore on them, that they could not eate their ordinary meat. Others complained of paine in their heads, and their brests: Some of weakenesse in their backs; Others of aches in their [Page 64] thighs and knees: and others, of swellings in their legges. Thus were two thirds of the company, vnder the Chirurgions hand. And yet neuerthelesse, they must worke daily; and goe abroad to fetch wood, and timber; notwithstanding the most of thē had no shooes to put on. Their shooes, vpon their comming to the fire, out of the snow, were burnt and scorcht vpon their feete: and our store-shooes were all sunke in the Ship. In this necessitie they would make this shift: To bind clouts about their feet, and endeauoured by that poore helpe, the best they could to performe their duties. Our Carpenter likewise is by this time falne sicke to our great discomforts. I practised some obseruations by the rising and setting of the Sunne, calculating the time of his rising and setting, by very true running glasses. As for our Clocke and Watch, notwithstanding we still kept them by the fires side, in a Chest wrapt in clothes, yet were they so frozen, that they could not goe. My obseruations by these Glasses, I compared with the Stars comming to the Meridian. By this meanes wee found the Sunne to rise twentie minutes before it should: and in the euening to remaine aboue the Horizon twentie minutes (or thereabouts) longer then it should doe. And all this by reason of the Refraction.
Since now I haue spoken so much of the cold, I hope it will not be too coldly taken, if I in a few words make it someway to appeare vnto our Readers.
Wee made three differences of the cold: all according to the places. In our house, In the woods: and in the open Ayer, vpon the Ice, in our going to the ship.
For the last, it would be sometimes so extreme, that it was not indurable: no Cloathes were proofe against it; no motion could resist it. It would, moreouer, so freeze the haire on our eye-lids, that we could not see: and I verily beleeue, that it would haue stifled a man, in a very few houres: we did daily find by experience, that the cold in the Woods would freeze our faces, or any part of our flesh that was bare; but it was yet not so mortifying as the other. Our house on the out-side, was couered two thirdparts with Snow; and on [Page 65] the inside frozen, & hang with Icesickles. The Cloathes on our beds would be couered with hoare frost: which in this little habitacle, was not farre from the fire. But let vs come a little neerer to it. The Cookes Tubs, wherein he did water his meate, standing about a yard from the fire, and which he did all day plye with melted Snow-water: yet in the night season, whilst he slept but one watch, would they be firme frozen to the very bottome. And therefore was hee faine to water his meate in a brasse Kettle close adioyning to the fire; and I haue many times both seene and felt by putting my hand into it; that side which was next the fire, was very warme, and the other side an inch frozen; I leaue the rest to our Cooke; who will almost speake miracles of the cold. The Surgeon, who had hung his bottles of sirrops, and other liquid things as conueniently as he could to preserue them, had them all frozen: our Vineger, Oyle, and Sacke, which we had in small Caske in the house, was all firme frozen. It may further in generall be conceiued, that in the beginning of Iune, the Sea was not broken vp: and the ground was yet frozen, and thus much wee found by experience, in the burying of our men: in setting vp the Kings Standard towards the latter end of Iune: and by our Well, at our comming away in the beginning of Iuly: at which time vpon the land for some other reasons, it was very hote weather.
March, 1632.
The first of this moneth being Saint Dauids day, 1. we kept Holyday, and solemnized it in the manner of the Ancient Britaines: praying for his Highnesse happinesse Charles Prince of Wales.
The fifteenth, 15. one of our men thought he had seene a Deere: whereupon he with two or three more desired that they might go to see if they could take it: I gaue them leaue: but in the Euening they returned so disabled with cold, which did rise vp in blisters vnder the soales of their feete and vpon their legges, to the bignesse of Walnuts; that they [Page 66] could not recouer their former estate (which was not very well) in a fortnight after.
The sixe and twentieth, 16. three more desire that they also might goe out to try their fortunes: but they returned worse disabled, and euen almost stifled with the cold.
This Euening, the Moone rose in a very long Ovale alongst the Horizon.
By the last of this moneth, the Carpenter had set vp 17. ground timbers: and 34. Staddles; and (poore man) hee proceedeth the best he can, though he be faine to be led vnto his labour.
In briefe, all this moneth hath beene very cold. The wind about the N. W. The snow as deepe as it hath beene all this winter; But to answer an obiection that may be made, You were in a wood (may some men say vnto vs) and therefore you might make fire enough to keepe you from the cold. It is true, we were in a wood; and vnder a South-banke too: or otherwise, we had all starued. But I must tell you withall; how difficult it was to haue wood in a wood: And first, I will make a muster of the tooles we had: The Carpenter in his Chest had 2. Axes indeed: but one of them was spoyl'd in cutting downe wood to pile about our house before Christmas; When we came first a land, we had but two whole hatchets, which in a few dayes broke 2. inches below the Sockets. I cald for 3. of the Coopers hatchets: The Carpenters axe and the Coopers best hatchet I caused to be lockt vp: The other 2. hatchets to be new helu'd, and the blades of the 2. broken hatchets, to be put into a cleft piece of wood, and then to be bound about with rope yame as fast as might be: which must be repaired euery day. And these were all the cutting tooles we had: moreouer the 6. of February the Carpenter had out his best axe about something, and one of the company in his absence, by his vndiscreete handling of it, brake that too, two inches below the Socket: we must henceforth order these pieces of tooles the best we could: wherefore I gaue order, that the Carpenter should haue one of the Coopers hatchets: they that lookt for timber [Page 67] in the woods, the other: and they that cut downe wood to burne, were to haue the 2. pieces. And this was before Christmas.
The three that were appointed to looke crooked timber, must stalke and wade, (sometimes on all foure) thorow the snow: and where they saw a tree likely to fit the mould: they must first heaue away the snow, and then see if it would fit the mould: if not, they must seeke further: if it did fit the mould; then they must make a fire to it, to thawe it: otherwise it could not be cut. Then cut it downe, and fit it to the length of the mould: and then with other helpe, get it home: a mile thorow the snow.
Now for our firing. We could not burne greene wood, it would so smoke, that it was not indurable: yea the men had rather starue without in the cold, then sit by it. As for the dry wood, that also was bad enough in that kinde: for it was full of Turpentine, and would send forth such a thicke smoke, that would make abundance of soote: which made vs all looke, as if we had beene free of the company of Chimney-Sweepers. Our cloathes were quite burnt in pieces about vs: and for the most part, we were all without shooes: But to our Fuellers againe. They must first (as the former) goe vp and downe in the snow: till they saw a standing dry tree: for that the snow couered any that were fallen. Then they must hacke it downe with their pieces of hatchets: and then others must carry it home thorow the snow. The boyes with Cuttleasses, must cut boughes for the Carpenter: for euery piece of timber that he did worke, must first be thaw'd in the fire: and he must haue a fire by him, or he could not worke. And this was our continuall labour, throughout the forementioned cold: besides our tending of the sicke, and other necessary imployments.
Aprill. 1632.
The first of this moneth being Easter-day, 1. we solemnized as religiously as God did giue vs grace. Both this [Page 68] day and the 2. following Holy-dayes were extreme cold: And now sitting all about the fire, we reasoned and considered together vpon our estate; We had 5. men (whereof the Carpenter was one:) not able to doe any thing. The Boateswayne and many more, were very infirme: and of all the rest, we had but 5. that could eate of their ordinary allowance. The time and season of the yeere came forwards apace: and the cold did very little mitigate. Our Pinnace was in an indifferent forwardnesse: but the Carpenter grew worse and worse: The Ship (as we then thought) lay all full of solid Ice: which was weight enough to open the seames of any new and sound vessell: especially of one that had layne so long vpon the ground as she had done. In briefe, after many disputations, and laying open of our miserable and hopelesse estates, I resolued vpon this course: that notwithstanding it was more labour, and though we declined, weaker still and weaker: yet that with the first warme weather, we would begin to cleere the Ship: that so we might haue the time before vs, to thinke of some other course. This being ordered, we lookt to those tooles we had, to digge the Ice out of her: we had but 2. Iron barres ashoare: the rest were sunke in the Ship: and one of them was broken too. Well! we fell to fitting of those barres, and of 4. broken shouels that we had: with which we intended (as after we did) to digge the Ice out of her: and to lay that Ice on a heape, vpon the Lar-boord bowe, and to sinke downe that Ice to the ground so fast, that it should be a Barricadoe to vs, when the Ice brake vp; which we feared would teare vs all to pieces.
The 6. was the deepest snow we had all this yeere: 6. which fild vp all our pathes and wayes, by which we were vsed to goe vnto the wood: This snow was something moyster and greater, then any we had had all this yeere: for formerly it was as dry as dust; and as small as sand, and would driue like dust with the winde.
The weather continued with this extremitie, 15. vntill the 15. at which time our spring was harder frozen, then it had [Page 69] beene all the yeere before. I had often obserued the difference betwixt cleere weather and mistie Refractious weather: in this manner. From a little hill which was neere adioyning to our house; in the cleerest weather, when the Sunne shone with all the puritie of ayre, that I could conceiue: we could not see a little Iland; which bare off vs South South-east, some foure leagues off: but if the weather were mistie (as aforesaid) then we should often see it, from the lowest place. This little Iland I had seene the last yeere, when I was on Danby Iland: 13. The 13. I tooke the height of it instrumentally; standing neere the Seas side: which I found to be 34. minutes: the Sunne being 28. degrees high. This showes, how great a Refraction here is. Yet may this be noted by the way; That I haue seene the land eleuated, by reason of the refractious ayre; and neuerthelesse, the Sunne hath risen perfect round.
The sixteenth was the most comfortable Sun-shine day, 16. that came this yeere: and I put some to cleere off the snow from the vpper decks of the Ship; and to cleere and dry the great Cabbin, by making fire in it. Others I put to digge downe thorow the Ice, to come by our Anker, that was in shoald water, which the 17. in the afternoone we got vp, 17. and carried aboord.
The eighteenth, 18. I put them to digge downe thorow the Ice, neere the place where we thought our Rudder might be. They digged downe, and came to water: but no hope of finding of it: we had many doubts, that it mought be sanded: or that the Ice might haue carried it away already, the last yeere: or if we could not recouer it by digging before the Ice brake vp, and droue, there was little hope of it.
The nineteenth wee continued our myning worke aboord the Shippe; 19. and returned in the Euening to Supper ashoare: This Day, The Master and two others, desired that they might lye aboord: which I condiscended to: for indeed they had laine very discommodiously all the winter, and with sicke bed-fellowes: as I my selfe had done; euery one in that kinde taking their fortunes. By lying aboord, they auoyded the hearing of the miserable [Page 70] groanings: and lamenting of the sicke men all night long: enduring (poore soules) intolerable torments.
By the one and twentieth, 21. we had laboured so hard, that we came to see a Caske; and could likewise perceiue that there was some water in the Hold. This we knew could not be thawed water; because it did still freeze night and day very hard aboord the Ship, and one the land also.
By the three and twentieth in the Euening, 23. wee came to pierce the forementioned Caske: and found it was full of very good Beere, which did much reioyce vs all: especially the sickemen, notwithstanding that it did taste a little of bulgewater. By this we at that time thought that the holes we had cut to sinke the Ship, were frozen, and that this water had stood in the Ship all the Winter.
The foure and twentieth, 24. we went betimes in the morning to worke: but found that the water was risen aboue the Ice where we had left work, about two foot: for that the wind had blowne very hard at North, the night before. In the morning, the wind came about South, and blew hard, and although we had little reason for it; we yet expected a lower veere of the water. I there vpon put them to worke on the outside of the Ship: that we might come to the lower hole, which we had cut in the Sterne-Shootes. With much labour by night, we digged downe thorow the Ice to it; and found it vnfrozen (as it had bin all the Winter) and to our great comforts, we found that on the inside, the water was ebd euen with the hole: and that on the outside, it was ebd a foot lower. Hereupon I made a shot-boord to be naild on it: and to be made as tight as might be, to try if the water came in any other way. To the other two holes, we had digged on the inside: and found them frozen? Now I did this betimes, that if we found the Ship foundered, we might resolue of some course to saue, or prolong our liues, by getting to the maine before the Ice were broken vp: for, as for our Boate, it was too little, and bulged, besides that. Our Carpenter was by this time past hope: and therefore little hope had we of our Pinnasse. But which was worst of all, we [Page 71] had not foure men able to trauell through the Snow ouer the Ice, and in this miserable estate were we at this present.
The 25. we satisfied our longing: 25. for the winde now comming about Northerly, the water rose by the Ships side (where we had digged downe) a foot and more aboue the Hold: and yet did not rise within boord. This did so incourage vs, that we fell very lustily to digging, and to heaue out the Ice, out of the ship. I put the Cooke and some others, to thaw the pumps: who by continuall powring of hot water into them; by the 27. in the morning they had cleered one of them: which we say-ing, found that it did deliuer water very sufficiently. Thus we fell to pumping: and hauing cleered two foot water, we then left to haue a second tryall. Continuing our worke thus, 28. in digging the Ice; by the 28. we had cleered our other pumpe: which we also found to deliuer water very well: We found likewise, that the water did not rise any thing, in Hold.
The 29. it rained all day long, 29. a sure signe to vs, that winter was broken vp.
The 30. wee were betimes aboord at our worke: 30. which day, 31. and the one and thirtieth, were very cold, with snow and haile: which did pinch our sicke men more then any time this yeere. This euening being May Euen; we returned late from our worke to our house: and made a good fire, and chose Ladies, and did ceremoniously weare their names in our Caps: endeauouring to reuiue our selues by any meanes. And because you heare vs in this merry humour; I will make knowne to you what good cheere we kept at Christmas and Easter: and how we had dieted our selues all the winter.
At our comming foorth of England, we were stored with all sort of Sea prouisions: as Beefe, Porke, Fish, &c. but now that we had little hope of refreshing, our Cooke did order it in this manner.
The Beefe which was to serue on Sunday-night to Supper; he did boyle on Saterday-night, in a Kettle full of water, with a quart of Oaterneale, about an houre: Then taking the Beefe out, he boyled the rest till it came to halfe the quantitie: And [Page 72] this we called porridge: which with bread we did eate, as hot as we could: and after this we had our ordinary of fish. Sunday dinner, wee had Porke and Pease: and at night the former boyled Beefe made more porridge. In this manner our Tuesdayes Beefe was boyled on the Munday nights: and the Thursdayes, vpon the Wednesdayes. And thus all the weeke (except Friday night) we had some warme thing in our bellies euery supper. And (surely) this did vs a great deale of good. But soone after Christmas, many of vs fell sicke, and had sore mouthes: and could neither eate Beefe, Porke, Fish, nor Porridge. Their dyet was onely this: They would pound Bread, or Oatmeale in a morter, to meale: then fry it in a frying panne, with a little oyle, and so eate it. Some would boyle Pease to a soft paste, and feed as well as they could, vpon that. For the most part of the winter, water was our drinke. In the whole winter, we tooke not aboue a doozen Foxes: many of which would be dead in the traps, two or three dayes, oftentimes; and then when the blood was settled, they would be vnwholesome. But if we tooke one aliue, that had not bin long in the trap, him we boyled, and made broth for the weakest sicke men of him: the flesh of it being soft boyled they did eate also.
Some white partridges we kild: but not worth the mentioning towards any refreshing.
We had three sorts of sickemen. Those that could not moue nor turne themselues in their Beds, who must be tended like an Infant. Others that were as it were creepled with scuruy Aches. And others lastly, that were something better. Most of all had sore mouthes. You may now aske me, how these infirme men could worke? I will tell you: Our Surgeon (which was diligent, and a sweet-conditioned man, as euer I saw) would be vp betimes in the mornings; and whilest he did picke their Teeth, and cut away the dead flesh from their Gummes, they would bathe their owne thighes, knees, and legges. The manner whereof way this: There was no tree, bud, nor herbe; but we made tryall of it: and this being first boyled in a Kettle, and then put in a small [Page 73] Tubs, and Basons: they put it vnder them, and couering themselues with Cloathes vpon it; this would so mollifie the grieued parts, that although, when they did rise out of their Beds, they would be so crippled, that they could scarce stand: yet after this done halfe an houre, they would be able to goe (and must goe) to wood, thorow the Snow, to the Ship, and about their other businesse. By night, they would be as bad againe: and then they must bee bathed, anoynted, and their mouthes againe drest, before they went to Bed. And with this dyet, and in this manner, did we goe thorow our miseries.
I euer doubted, that we should be weakest in the Spring; and therefore had I reserued a Tun of Alegant Wine vnto this time. Of this, by putting seuen parts of water, to one of wine, we made some weake Beuerage: which (by reason that the wine by being frozen, had lost his Vertue) was little better then water. The sicker sort had a Pint of Alegant a day, by it selfe; and of such poore Aqua vitae too, as we had, they had a little dramme allowed them next their hearts euery morning; and thus wee made the best vse of what we had, according to the seasons.
May, 1632.
The first, 1. we went aboord betimes, to heaue out the Ice.
The second, 2. it did snow and blow, and was so cold, that we were faine to keepe house all day. This vnexpected cold at this time of the yeere did so vexe our sicke men; that they grew worse and worse: we cannot now take them out of their beds, but they would swound: and we had much adoe, to fetch life in them.
The third, 3. those that were able, went aboord betimes to heaue out the Ice. The Snow was now melted in many places vpon the Land, and stood in plashes: and now there came some Cranes, and Geese to it.
The fourth, 4. while the rest wrought aboord, I and the Surgeon went with a couple of pieces, to see if we could [Page 74] kill any of these fowle for our sicke men, but neuer did I see such wild-fowle: They would not indure to see any thing mooue. Wherefore we returned within 2. houres, not being able to indure any longer stalking thorow the snow, and the wet plashes. I verily thought that my feet and legs would haue fallen off, they did so torment me with aking.
The 6. Iohn Wardon, 6. the Master of my Ships chiefe Mate dyed, whom we buried in the Euening (in the most Christian-like manner we could) vpon the top of a bare hill of sand: which we cald Brandon Hill.
The weather continued very cold: freezing so hard in a night, that it would beare a man.
By the 9. we were come to, 9. and got vp our fiue barrels of Beefe and Porke, and had found 4. Buts of Beere, and one of Cydar, which God had preserued for vs: It had layne vnder water all the winter; yet we could not perceiue that it was any thing the worse. God make vs euer thankefull for the comfort it gaue vs.
The 10. it did snow and blow so cold, 10. that we could not stirre out of the house: yet neuerthelesse, by day the snow vanisheth away apace on the land.
The 11. we were aboord betimes, 11. & 12. to heaue out Ice. By the 12. at night, we had cleered out all the Ice, out of the Hold: and found likewise our store-shooes which had layne soakt in the water all the winter: but we dried them by the fire, and fitted our selues with them. We strooke againe our Cables into the Hold; there stowd we a But of Wine also, which had beene all the Winter on the vpper decke, and continued as yet, all firme frozen. We fitted the Ship also: making her ready to sinke her againe, when the Ice brake vp. We could hitherto find no defect in her: and therefore well hoped, that she was stanche. The Carpenter, neuerthelesse, did earnestly argue to the contrary: alleadging, that now she lay on the ground, in her Docke; and that the Ice had fild her defects: and that the Ice was the thing that kept out the water: but when she should come to labour in the sea; then doubtlesse, she would open. And indeed we could [Page 75] now see quite through her seames, betwixt wind and water. But that which did trouble vs as ill as all this, was the losse of her Rudder: and that she now lay in the very strength of the Tyde: which, when euer the Ice droue, might teare her to pieces. But we still hoped the best.
The 13. 13. being the Sabbath Day, we solemnized; giuing God thankes for those hopes and comforts we dayly had: The weather by day-time was pretty and warme: but it did freeze by night: yet now we could see some bare patches of land.
The 14. 14. we began a new sort of worke. The Boateswaine and a conuenient number sought ashoare the rest of our Rigging: which was much spoyld by pecking of it out of the Ice: and this they now fell to fitting, and to seruing of it. I set the Cooper to fit our Caske, although (poore man) he was very infirme: my intent being, to passe some Cables vnder the Ship, and so to Buoy her vp with these Caske; if otherwise we could not get her off. Some others, I ordered to goe see, if they could kill some wild-fowle for our sicke men: who now grew worse and worse. And this is to be remembred, that we had no shot, but what we did make of the Aprons of our Gunnes and some old pewter that I had: for the Carpenters-sheet-lead, we durst not vse.
The 15. I manured a little patch of ground, 15. that was bare of snow; and sowed it with Peason: hoping to haue some of the hearbs of them shortly, to eate: for as yet we can finde no greene thing to comfort vs.
The 18. our Carpenter William Cole dyed, 18. a man generally bemoaned of vs all: asmuch for his innate goodnesse, as for the present necessity we had of a man of his quality. He had indured a long sicknesse, with much patience, and made a very godly end. In the Euening, we buried him by Master Wardon: accompanied with as many as could goe: for 3. more of our principall men, lay then expecting a good houre. And now were we in the most miserable estate, that we were in all the voyage. Before his extreme weaknesse, he had brought the Pinnace to that passe, that she was ready [Page 76] to be boulted and trenneld; and to be ioyn'd together to receiue the planke: so that we were not so discouraged by his death, but that we did hope of our selues to finish her: if the Ship proved vnseruiceable.
This our Pinnace was 27. foot by the Keele, 10. foot by the Beame, and 5. foot in Hold: she had 17. ground timbers, 34. principall Staddles, and 8. short Staddles. He had contriued Her with a round sterne, to saue labour: and indeed she was a well proportioned Vessell. Her burthen was 12. or 14. Tunne.
In the Euening, the Master of our Ship, after buriall returning aboord Ship, and looking about her: discouered some part of our Gunner; vnder the Gun-roome ports. This man, we had committed to the Sea at a good distance from the Ship, and in deep water, neere 6. moneths before.
The 19. in the morning, 19. I sent men to dig him out, he was fast in the Ice, his head downewards, and his heele vpward, for he had but one legge; and the plaster was yet at his wound: In the afternoone, they had digd him cleere out: after all which time, he was as free from noysomenesse, as when we first committed him to the Sea. This alteration had the Ice and water, and time onely wrought on him: that his flesh would slip vp and downe vpon his bones, like a gloue on a mans hand. In the Euening we buried him by the others. This day, one George Vgganes (who could handle a toole best of vs all) had indifferent well repaired out boate: and so we ended this mournefull weeke. The snow was by this time prettily well wasted in the woods: and we hauing a high tree, on the highest place of the Iland, which we called our watch-tree; from the top of it we might see into the sea, but found no appearance of breaking vp yet.
This 20. being Whit-Sunday, 20. we sadly solemnized, and had some taste of the wilde-fowle: but not worth the writing.
The one and twentieth, 21. was the warmest Sunne-shine-day, that came this yeere. I sent 2. a-fowling: and my selfe taking the Master, the Surgeon, and one more, with our pieces [Page 77] and our Dogs, we went into the woods to see what comfort wee could finde. Wee wandred from the house eight miles; and searcht with all diligence: but returned comfortlesse, not an herbe nor leafe eatable, that we could finde. Our Fowlers had as bad successe. In the woods, wee found the Snow partly wasted away, so that it was passable. The ponds were almost vnthawd: but the Sea from any place we could see all firme frozen.
The snow doth not melt away here with the Sunne or raine; and so make any land-floods; as in England: but it is exhaled vp by the Sunne, and suckt full of holes, like honeycombs: so that the sand whereon it lyes, will not be at all wetted. The like obseruation wee also had: that let it raine euer so much, you shall see no land-floods after it.
The two and twentieth, 22. we went aboord the Ship: and found that shee had made so much water, that it was now risen aboue the ballast, which made vs doubt againe of her soundnesse. We fell to pumping, and pumpt her quite dry. And now by day sometimes, we haue such hot gloomes, that we cannot endure in the Sunne: and yet in the night it would freeze very hard. This vnnaturalnesse of the season, did torment our men, that they now grew worse and worse daily.
The three and twentieth, 23. our Boat-swayne (a painefull man) hauing beene long sicke, which he had heartily resisted, was taken with such a painefull ache in one of his thighs; that we verily thought he would haue presently dyed. He kept his bed all day in great extremitie: and it was a maxime amongst vs; that if any one kept his bed two dayes, he could rise no more. This made euery man to striue to keepe vp, for life.
The foure and twentieth was very warme Sun-shine: 24. and the Ice did consume by the shores side, and crackt all ouer the Bay, with a fearefull noyse. About three in the afternoone, we could perceiue the Ice with the ebbe to driue by the Ship. Whereupon I sent two with all speed vnto the Master, with order: to beate out the hole, and to sinke the Ship: as likewise to looke for the Rudder, betwixt the Ice. This he presently [Page 78] performed: and a happy fellow, one Dauid Hammon, pecking betwixt the Ice, strooke vpon it, and it came vp with his lance: who crying that he had found it, the rest came and got it vp on the Ice, and so into the Ship. In the meane space, with the little drift that the Ice had, it began to rise and mount into high heaps against the shoald shoares, and rocks: and likewise against the heape of Ice, which we had put for a Barricado to our Ship: but with little harme to vs. Yet we were faine to cut away 20. faddome of Cable which was frozen in the Ice. After an houre, the Ice settled againe, as not hauing any vent outwards. Oh! this was a ioyfull day to vs all: and we gaue God thanks for the hopes we had of it.
The fiue and twentieth was a fine warme day; 25 and with the ebbe, the Ice did driue against the Ship, and shake her shrowdly.
The sixe and twentieth, 26. I tooke the Chirurgion with mee, and went againe to wander the woods: and went to that Bay, where last yeere wee had lost our man Iohn Barton. But we could finde no signe of him, nor of other reliefe.
By the eight and twentieth it was pretty and cleere, 28. betwixt the Ship and the shoare, and I hoped the Ice would no more dangerously oppresse vs. Wherefore I caused the lower hole to be firmely stopt: the water then remaining three foot, aboue the Ballast.
The nine and twentieth, 29. being Prince Charles his birth day; we kept Holy-day, and display'd his Maiesties Colours: both aland and aboord; and named our habitation Charles Towne; by contraction Charlton: and the Iland, Charlton Iland.
The thirtieth we lanched our Boate; 30. and had intercourse sometimes betwixt the Ship and the shoare by Boat: which was newes to vs.
The last of this moneth, we found on the Beach some Vetches, to appeare out of the ground; which I made the men to pick vp, and to boyle for our sicke men.
This day, we made an end of fitting all our Rigging and Sayles: and it being a very hot day, we did dry and new make our Fish in the Sunne: and ayred all our other prouisions. [Page 79] There was not a man of vs at present, able to eate of our salt prouisions, but my selfe and the Master of my Ship. It may be here remembred, that all this Winter wee had not beene troubled with any rhumes, nor flegmaticall diseases. All this moneth the winde hath beene variable, but for the most part Northerly.
Iune. 1632.
The foure first dayes, it did snow, haile, and blow very hard; and was so cold, that the Ponds of water did freeze ouer: and the water in our Cans did freeze in the very house: our clothes also that had beene washed and hung out to dry, did not thaw all day.
The fift, 5. it continued blowing very hard in the broad side of the Ship: which did make her swag and wallow in her Docke for all shee was sunken: which did much shake her. The Ice withall did driue against her, and gaue her many fearefull blowes. I resolued to endeuour to hang the Rudder; and when God sent vs water, (notwithstanding the abundance of Ice that was yet about vs) to haue her further off: In the afternoone, we vnder-run our small Cable to our Anker, which lay a-Sterne in deepe water; and so with some difficultie gate vp our Anker: This Cable had laine slacke vnder-foot, and vnder the Ice, all the Winter: and wee could neuer haue a cleere slatch from Ice, to haue it vp, before now; we found it not a iot the worse. I put some to make Colrakes; that they might goe into the water, and rake a hole in the sands to let downe our Rudder.
The sixth, 6. we went about to hang it. And our young lustiest men tooke turnes, to goe into the water, and to rake away the sand: but they were not able to indure the cold of it halfe a quarter of an houre, it was so mortifying: yea, vse what comforts we could, it would make them swound and dye away. We brought it to the Sternepost: but were then faine to giue it ouer, being able to worke at it no longer. Then we plugg'd vp the vpper holes, within boord: and fell to pumping the water againe out of her.
[Page 80] The seuenth we wrought something about our Rudder, 7. but were againe forced to giue ouer; and to put out our Cables ouer-boord, with Messengers vnto them: the Ankers lying to that passe, that we might keepe her right in her docke, when we should haue brought her light.
By the eighth at night, 8. we had pumpt all the water out of her: and shee at a high water would fleet in her docke, though she were still dockt in the sands, almost fourefoot. This made vs to consider what was to be done. I resolued to heaue out all the Ballast: for that the bottome of her being so soakt all the winter, I hoped was so heauy, that it would beare her. If we could not get her off that way, I then thought to cut her downe to the lower decke, and take out her Masts: and so with our Caske to Buoy her off.
The ninth, 9. betimes in the morning wee fell to worke, we hoyst out our Beere and Cydar, and made a raft of it; fastning it to our shoare-Anker: The Beere and Cydar sunke presently to the ground: which was nothing strange to vs; for that any wood or pipe-slaues that had layne vnder the Ice all the winter, would also sinke downe, so soone as euer it was heaued ouer-boord: This day we heaued out tenne tunne of Ballast. And here I am to remember Gods goodnesse towards vs: in sending those forementioned greene Vetches. For now our feeble sicke men, that could not for their liues stirre these two or three months, can indure the ayre and walke about the house: our other sicke men gather strength also: and it is wonderfull to see how soone they were recouered. We vsed them in this manner: Twice a day we went to gather the herbe or leafe of these Vetches, as they first appeared out of the ground: then did we wash and boyle them, and so with Oyle and Vineger that had been frozen, we did eate them: It was an excellent sustenance and refreshing: the most part of vs ate nothing else: we would likewise bruise them, and take the Iuyce of them, and mixe that with our drinke: we would eate them raw also, with our bread.
The eleuenth was very warme weather, 11. and we did hang [Page 81] our Rudder. The tydes did now very much deceiue vs: for a Northerly wind would very little raise the water. This made vs doubt of getting off our Ship.
The thirteenth I resolued of the Latitude of this place, 13. so that hauing examined the Instruments, and practised about it this Fortnight, I now found it to be in 52 degrees, and 3 minutes.
The foureteenth wee had heaued out all the Ballast, 14. and carried all our Yards, and euery thing else of weight ashoare, so that we now had the Ship as light as possible it could be.
The fifteenth we did little but exercise our selues: 15. seeing that by this time, our men that were most feeble, are now growne strong, and can runne about. The flesh of their gummes became settled againe, and their teeth fastned: so that they can eate Beefe with their Vetches.
This day I went to our Watch-tree: but the Sea (for any thing I could perceiue to the contrary) was still firme frozen: and the Bay we were in, all full of Ice, hauing no way to vent it.
The sixteenth was wondrous hot, 16. with some thunder and lightning, so that our men did goe into the ponds ashoare, to swimme and coole themselues: yet was the water very cold still. Here had lately appeared diuers sorts of flyes: as Butterflyes, Butchers-flyes, Horseflyes: and such an infinit abundance of bloud-thirsty Muskitoes, that we were more tormented with them, then euer we were with the cold weather. These (I thinke) lye dead in the old rotten wood all the winter, and in summer they reuiue againe. Here be likewise infinite company of Ants, and Frogs in the ponds vpon the land: but we durst not eate of them; they lookt so speckled like Toads. By this time were there neither Beares, Foxes, nor Fowle to be seene: they are all gone.
The seuenteenth, 17. the wind came Northerly, and wee expecting a high Tyde, in the morning betimes, put out our small Cable asterne out at the Gun-roome-port: but the morning Tyde we had not water by a foot. In the Euening [Page 82] I had laid markes, by stones, &c. and mee thoughts the water did flow apace. Making signes therefore for the Boate to come ashoare; I tooke all that were able to doe any thing with me aboord: and at high water (although she wanted something to rise cleere out of her docke) yet we heau'd with such a good will, that we heaued her thorow the sand into a foot and a halfe deeper water. Further then so, we durst not yet bring her, for that the Ice was all thicke about vs. After we had moor'd her, we went all to prayers: and gaue God thankes, that had giuen vs our ship againe.
The 18th. 18. we were vp betimes: the Cooper, and some with him, to fill fresh water: my selfe with some others, to gather stones at low-water; which we pyling vp in a heape, at high water the Cock-swaine and his Ging, fetcht them aboord: where the Master with the rest stood them. The Ship at low water had a great lust to the offing: by which meanes we could the better come and stop the two vpper holes firmely: after which we fitted other conuenient places, to make others to sinke her, if occasion were.
The ninteenth, 19. we were all vp betimes to worke, as afore specified: these two dayes, our Ship did not fleet: and it was a happy houre, when we got her off, for that we neuer had such a high Tyde all the time we were here. In the Euening, I went vp to our Watch tree: and this was the first time I could see any open water, any way: except that little by the shoareside, where we were. This put vs in some comfort, that the Sea would shortly breake vp: which wee knew must bee to the Northward; seeing that way we were certaine, there was aboue two hundred leagues of Sea.
The 20. 20. we laboured as aforesaid. The winde at N. N. W. The tyde rose so high, that our Ship fleeted, and we drew her further off, into a foote and a halfe deepe water. Thus we did it by little and little; for that the Ice was still wonderfull thicke about vs.
The 22. 22. there droue much Ice about vs, and within vs, and brought home our Sterne-Anker. At high water (notwithstanding [Page 83] all the Ice) we heau'd our Ship further off: that so she might lie aflote at low-water.
The next low-water, we sounded all about the Ship: and found it very foule ground, we discouered stones 3. foote high, aboue the ground, and 2. of them within a Ships breadth of the Ship: whereby did more manifestly appeare Gods mercies to vs: for if when we forced her ashoare, she had strooken one blow against those stones, it had bulged her. Many such dangers were there in this Bay: which we now first perceiued, by the Ices grounding and rising against them. In the Euening, we tow'd off the Ship, vnto the place she rid the last yeere, and there moord her. Shering the Ship, night and day, flood and ebbe, amongst the disperst Ice that came athwart of vs.
The 23. 23. we laboured in fetching our prouisions aboord: which to doe, we were faine to wade to carry it to the boate a full flight-shot: and all by reason the winde was Southerly. This morning, I tooke an Obseruation of the Moones comming to the South, by a Meridian line of 120. yards long: which I had rectified many weeks before-hand.
The 24. 24. I tooke another Obseruation of the Moones comming to the Meridian: for which I referre you to the obseruations in the latter end of this Iournall.
Whereas I had formerly cut downe a very high tree, and made a Crosse of it, to it I now fastened (vppermost) the Kings and Queenes Maiesties Pictures; drawne to the life: and doubly wrapt in lead, and so close, that no weather could hurt them. Betwixt both these I affixed his Maiesties Royall Title: Viz. Charles the first King of England, Scotland, France and Ireland: as also of New-found-land, and of these Territories, and to the Westward, as farre as Nova Albion, and to the Northward to the Latitude of 80. degrees, &c.
On the out-side of the lead, I fastened a shilling and a sixepence of his Maiesties Coyne: vnder that, we fastened the Kings Armes, fairely cut in lead: and vnder that, the Armes of the City of Bristoll. And this being Midsummer-Day, we raised it on the top of the bare Hill, where we had buried [Page 84] our dead fellowes: formally by this ceremony taking possession of these Territories, to his Maiesties vse.
The winde continuing Southerly and blowing hard, put all the Ice vpon vs: so that the Ship now rid amongst it, in such apparent danger, that I thought verily we should haue lost her. We laboured, flood and ebbe, both with poles and oares, to heaue away and part the Ice from her. But it was God that did protect and preserue vs: for it was past any mans vnderstanding, how the Ship could indure it, or we by our labour saue her. In the night, the winde shifted to the Westward, and blew the Ice from vs: whereby we had some rest.
The 25. 25. in the morning, the Boate-swayne with a conuenient crue with him, began to rigge the Ship: the rest fetching our prouisions aboord. About 10. a clocke, when it was something darke, I tooke a Lance in my hand; and one with me with a Musket and some fire, and went to our watch-tree; to make a fire on the eminentest place of the Iland: to see if it would be answered: Such fires I had formerly made, to haue knowledge if there were any Saluages on the maine or the Ilands about vs. Had there beene any, my purpose was to haue gone to them, to get some intelligence of some Christians, or some Ocean Sea thereabouts. When I was come to the tree, I laid downe my Lance, and so did my Consort his Musket: and whilest my selfe climed vp to the top of the tree, I ordered him to put fire vnto some low tree therabouts. He, (vnaduisedly) put fire to some trees that were to wind-ward: so that they (and all the rest too by reason it had beene very hot weather) being seare and dry, tooke fire like flaxe or hempe: and the wind blowing the fire towards me, I made haste downe the tree. But before I was halfe way down, the fire tooke in the bottome of it, and blazed so fiercely vpwards, that I was faine to leape off the tree, and downe a steepe hill, and in briefe, with much adoe, escapt burning. The mosse on the ground was as dry as flaxe: and it would runne most strangely, and like a traine along the earth. The Musket and the Lance were both burnt. My Consort at last [Page 85] came to me, and was ioyfull to see me: for he thought verily I had bin burned. And thus we went homeward together, leauing the fire increasing, and still burning most furiously. We could see no answer of it. I slept but little all night after: and at breake of day, I made all our Powder and Beefe, to be carried aboord. This day, I went to the hils, to looke to the fire: where I saw how it did still burne most furiously: both to the Westward, and Northward: leauing one vpon the hils to watch it, I came home immediately, and made them take downe our new suite of sayles, and carry them to the seas-side, ready to be cast in, if occasion were, and to make haste to take downe our houses. About noone, the winde shifted Northerly; and our Sentinell came running home, bringing vs word that the fire did follow him at hard heeles, like a traine of powder. It was no neede to bid vs take downe and carry all away to the sea-side. The fire came towards vs with a most terrible rattling noyse: bearing a full mile in breadth: and by that time wee had vncouered our houses and laid hand on, to carry away our last things: the fire was come to our Towne and seazed on it, and (in a trice) burnt it downe to the ground. We lost nothing of any value in it: for we had brought it all away into a place of security. Our dogges, in this combustion, would sit downe on their tayles, and howle, and then runne into the Sea, on the shoalds, and there stay. The winde shifted Easterly: and the fire ranged to the Westward, seeking what it might deuoure. This night, we lay all together aboord the Ship, and gaue God thankes, that had Shipt vs in her againe.
The twentie seuen, 27. twentie eight, and twentie nine; wee wrought hard, in fetching our things aboord, as likewise our water, which we must towe off with the ebbe, and bring it to the Ship with the flood. Moreouer, we must goe about the Easter-point for drift-wood: for our tooles were all so spent, that we could cut none. Wherefore, about some three dayes agone, I had caused our Pinnace to be sawed to pieces, and with that we stowed our Caske, intending to burne it at [Page 86] low waters, and such other times, as we could not worke in carrying things aboord. I employed the men in fetching stones: and we did build three Tombs ouer our three dead fellowes; filling them vp with sand in a decent and handsome fashion. The least Tombe, had two tunnes of stones about it.
The thirtieth, we most earnestly continued our labour: and brought our sayles to yard: and by eleuen a clocke at night had made a priddy Ship: meaning to haue finished our businesse with the weeke and the moneth, that so we might the better solemnize the Sabbath ashoare to morrow, and so take leaue of our wintering Iland.
The winde hath been variable a great while: and the Bayes are now so cleere of Ice, that we cannot see a piece of it: for it was all gone to the Northward. Hoping therefore that it giue content to some Readers: I will relate the manner of the breaking of it vp. It is first to be noted, that it doth not freeze (naturally) aboue sixe foot: the rest, is by accident. Such is that Ice that you may see here, sixe faddome thicke. This we had manifest proofe of, by our digging the Ice out of the Ship: and by digging to our Ankers, before the Ice broke vp.
In May, when the heate increaseth, it thawes first on the shoald by the shoare side: which when it hath done round about, then the courses of the tydes (as well by the ebbe and flood, as by their rising and falling) doe so shake the maine Ice, that it cracks and breakes it. Thus, when it hath gotten roome for motion; then runnes one piece of it vpon another: and so bruises and grinds it selfe against the shoalds and rocks, that it becomes abbreuiated, insomuch that a Ship may haue well passage thorow it. Besides this; much of it is thrust vpon the shoalds, where it is much consumed by the heate of the Sunne. The season here in this Climate, is most vnnaturall: for in the day time, it will be extreme hot: yea not indurable in the Sunne, which is, by reason that it is a sandy countrey. In the night againe, it will freeze an inch thicke in the ponds, and in the tubs about and in our house: And all this, towards the latter end of Iune.
[Page 87] The Muskitoes vpon our comming away, were most intolerable. Wee tore an old Auncient in pieces, and made vs bagges of it to put our heads in: but it was no fortification against them. They would finde wayes and meanes to sting vs, that our faces were swolne hard out in pumples, which would so itch and smart, that we must needs rubbe and teare them. And these flyes, indeed, were more tormenting to vs, then all the cold we had heretofore indured.
Iuly. 1632.
The first of this month being Sunday, we were vp betimes. And I caused our Ship to be adorned the best we could: our Ancient on the Poope, and the Kings Colours in the maine top. I had prouided a short briefe of all the passages of our voyage to this day: I likewise wrote in what state we were at present, and how I did intend to prosecute the discouery, both to the Westward, and to the Southward, about this Iland. This Briefe discourse I had concluded, with a request to any Noble minded Trauaylor that should take it downe, or come to the notice of it: that if we should perish in the Action, then to make our indeuours knowne to our Soueraigne Lord the King. And thus with our Armes, Drumme and Colours, Cooke and Kettle, we went ashoare, and first we marcht vp to our eminent Crosse, adioyning to which we had buried our dead fellowes. There we read morning prayer, and then walked vp and downe till dinner time. After dinner we walkt to the highest Hils, to see which way the fire had wasted. We descryed that it had consumed to the Westward, sixteene miles at least, and the whole bredth of the Iland: neere about our Crosse and dead, it could not come: by reason it was a bare sandy Hill. After Euening prayer, I happened to walke alongst the Beach side: where I found an herbe resembling Scuruy-grasse. I made some to be gathered: which we boyld with our meate to supper: It was most excellent good, and farre better them our Vetches. After supper we went all to seeke and gather more of [Page 88] it: which we did, to the quantity of two bushels which did afterwards much refresh vs: And now the Sunne was set, and the Boat comne ashoare for vs: whereupon we assembled our selues together, and went vp to take the last view of our dead, and to looke vnto their Tombes, and other things: here leaning vpon mine arme, on one of their Tombes I vttered these lines, which though perchance they may procure laughter in the wiser sort (which I shall be glad of) they yet moued my young and tender-hearted companions at that time with some compassion. And these they were.
Farewell.
So fastning my briefe to the Crosse, which was securely wrapt vp in Lead: we presently tooke Boat and departed: and neuer put foote more on that Iland. This Iland and all the rest, (as likewise the maine) is a light white sand; couered ouer with a white mosse, and full of shrubs and low bushes: excepting some bare hils, and other patches. In these bare places, the sand will driue with the wind like dust. It is very full of trees, as Spruse and Iuniper: but the biggest tree I saw, was but a foote and a halfe ouer. At our first comming hither, we saw some Deare and kild one: but neuer any since. Foxes, all the winter we saw many, and kild some dozen of them: but they went all away in May. Beares we saw but few, but kild none: we saw some other little beasts. In May there came some fowle, as Duckes and Geese: of which we kild very few. White Partridges we saw; but in small quantities: nor had we any shot, to shoot at them. Fish we could neuer see any in the Sea: nor no bones of fish on the shoare side: excepting a few Cockle-shels: and yet nothing in them neither. Other things remarkeable I haue before mentioned.
OVR DISCOVERY and comming Home.
Iuly, 1632.
MVnday being the second of Iuly, we were vp betimes: about Stowing and fitting our Ship, and waying of our Ankers, which when the last was a trippe, wee went to prayer, beseeching God to continue his mercies to vs, and rendering him thanks for hauing thus restored vs. Our Ship we found no defect in; we had abundance of such prouisions, as we brought out of England: and we were in indifferent health, and did gather strength daily. This being done, we wayed, and came cheerefully to sayle. The winde at North-west, bad to get away. Wherefore we stood ouer to Danby Iland, to take in more wood; and there to be ready to take the opportunitie of a faire winde. I went ashoare my selfe with the Boate: for that some of the company had told me, they had seen some stakes the last yeer drouen into the ground. When we came ashoare, whilest some gatherd wood, I went to the place: where I found two stakes, drouen into the ground about a foote and a halfe, and firebrands, where a fire had beene made by them. I puld vp the [Page 91] stakes, which were about the bignesse of my arme; and they had beene cut sharpe at the ends, with a hatchet, or some other good Iron toole, and driuen in as it were with the head of it. They were distant about a stones-throw, from the water side. I could not conceiue, to what purpose they should be there set; vnlesse it were for some marke for boats. This did augment my desire, to speake with the Saluages: for without doubt they could haue giuen notice of some Christians, with whom they had some commerce. About 4. in the Euening, I returned aboord with a boats lading of wood: and the winde something fauouring, we wayde; with our lead seeking out a Channell amongst these perilous shoalds. In the Euening, the winde opposing it selfe; we came to Anker betwixt Charleton Iland, and that Iland we named the last yeere, (in memory of that Honourable Gentleman Master Thomas Carie, one of the Bed-chamber to the King) Caries Iland: where we rid all night.
The 3. at breake of day, 3. we wayde with a bare winde, and sounding vp and downe for a Channell, we were many times in 5. and 4 fad. water. The winde larging vpon vs, we stood away West: by noone, we saw all Ice to the North-ward of vs. Indeauouring, therefore, to compasse about the Westerpoint of Charleton Iland: and so to seeke to the South-ward: We found it all shoalds, Rockes, and breaches. By 4. in the afternoone, we saw the Western-land; but all full of Ice: whereupon, as the wind fauoured vs, we stood alongst it in sight to the North-ward.
The fourth was calme, but so very thicke fogge withall, 4. that we could not see a Pistoll-shot about vs. Wherefore we came to an Anker, and there rid all this day and the next night.
The fift, 5. at three in the morning, we waide: but Ice being all about vs, we knew not which way to turne vs now to avoide telling the same thing 20 times: we were continually, till the 22. so pestered and tormented with Ice; that it would seeme incredible to relate it: sometimes we were so blinded with fogge, that we could not see about vs: and being [Page 92] now become wilfull in our indeauours, we should so strike against the Ice, that the fore-part of the Ship would cracke againe; and make our Cooke and others to runne vp all amazed, and thinke the Ship had beene beaten all to pieces. Indeed we did hourely strike such vnauoidable blowes, that we did leaue the hatches open, and 20. times in a day, the men would runne downe into the hold, to see if shee were bulged.
Sometimes, when we had made her fast in the night, to a great piece of Ice; we should haue such violent stormes, that our fastning would breake: and then the storme would beate vs from piece to piece most fearefully: Other-while, we should be fast inclosed amongst great Ice, as high as our poope. This was made (as I haue formerly said) by one piece running vpon another: which made it draw 8. or 10. fad▪ water. Besides which, the lower-most would rise from vnderneath, and strike vs vnder the bulge, with pieces of 5. 6. yea of 8. tunne, that many times we haue pumpt cleere water for an houre together, before we could make the pumpe sucke▪ Amongst these seuerall and hourely dangers, I ouer-heard the men murmure; and say that they were happy that I had buried: and that if they had a thousand pounds, they would giue it, so they lay fairely by them: for we (say they) are destined to starue vpon a piece of Ice. I was faine to indure all this with patience: and to comfort them vp againe, when I had them in a better humour.
The 22. hauing beene vext with a storme all last night, 22. and this morning with a thicke fogge; we droue in 13. faddome water. About noone, it cleer'd; and we saw the land: and at the instant, had a good obseruation: whereby we knew it to be Cape Henrietta Maria. I made the Master stand in with it; and in the meane time we fitted a Crosse, and fastened the Kings Armes, and the Armes of the City of Bristoll to it; we came to an Anker within a mile of the shoare, in 6. fadd. water: so we hoyst out the boate, and tooke our Armes and our Dogs, and went ashoare. Vpon the most eminent place, we erected the Crosse: and then seeking about, we soone [Page 93] saw some Deere; and by and by more and more. We stole to them with the best skill we had, and then put our Dogs on them: but the Deere ranne cleere away from them at pleasure. We tyred the Dogs, and wearied our selues, but to no purpose: neither could we come to shoote at them. I saw in all, about a dozen (old and young) very goodly beasts. We tooke halfe a doozen young Geese, on the pooles, by wading in to them; and so returned to our Boate vext, that now we had found a place where there was refreshing, and we could get none of it. Whereas, therefore, we had kept our Dogs with a great deale of inconuenience aboord the Ship, all the winter; and had pardoned them many misdemeanors, (for they would steale our meate out of the steeping tubs) in hope they might hereafter doe vs some seruice: and seeing they now did not; and that there was no hope they could hereafter: I caused them to be left ashoare. They were a Dogge and a Bitch: Bucke Dogs, of a very good race. The Dogge had a collar about his necke, which it may be hereafter, may come to light. I did see no signe at all, of any Saluages: nor could we finde any hearbs, or other refreshing here.
In the Euening, (being returned aboord) and the winde blowing faire at South; I caused the Master to weight, and come to saile, and to lose no time. For we did hope for an open Sea to the North-west. This Cape hath a very shoald point, that lies off it: which we indeauoured to compasse about.
Sayling therefore amongst shattered Ice, we came to very shoald water, (4. and 5. faddome deepe) and could not auoyde it. At length, standing North, the water deepened; but we came withall amongst great pieces of Ice; which by reason of some open water, there went a pretty sea. These hard pieces of Ice, made a most fearefull noyse. It proued a faire Moone-shine night: otherwise it had gone ill with vs. We turned amongst this Ice, staying the Ship sometimes within her length, of great pieces, as bad as Rockes: but by reason we were often forst to beare vp, we did sagge vpon the [Page 94] maine rand of Ice, and that we thought would it be worse for vs; wee let fall an Anker, and stood all on the decks to watch the Ices sheering of the Ship, (to and againe) to auoyd it. Thus hauing poles and oares to fend it, we could not keepe our selues so cleere, but many pieces came foule of vs. We brake two of our great poles with it: which were made to be handled by foure men, besides some other dammages. At breake of day, we wayed; and sought all wayes to cleere our selues of Ice: but it was impossible. I conceiue it impertinent to relate euery particular dayes passages; which was much alike to vs. Our endeauours were sometimes with our sayles; giuing and receiuing 500. fearefull blowes in a day. Sometimes, we would stop at an Anker, when we could get a little open water: and so suffer the Ice to driue to Leeward: Other-whiles, we should be inclosed amongst it; and then it would so breake, and rise, and leape vp vnder vs; that we expected to be beaten euery houre to pieces.
Moreouer, wee should haue such stormes in the darke nights, that would breake the moorings we had made fast to some piece of Ice for securitie in the night season: and then we should beat most dangerously from piece to piece till day-light, that we could see to make her fast againe. I forbeare to speake of thicke fogges which we had daily; which did freeze our Rigging day and night: Besides all which, wee should come into most vncertaine depths: sometimes 20. faddome: next cast 10. next 15. then 9. Rocky foule ground. The great deepe Ice withall, driuing on these vncertaine depths, did so distract the tydes, and deceiue vs so much in our accounts, 30. that by the thirtieth we were driuen backe so farre, to the Eastward, and to the Southward of the Cape; that at fiue a clocke in the euening, it bare North-west of vs some three leagues off, contrary to our expectations. With all these mischiefes, our Ship is now becomne very leaky: that we must pumpe euery halfe watch. Here I called a consultation: and after consideration of all our experience, we were all of the same opinion; that it was impossible to get to the Northward, or to the Eastward; by reason of the Ice. [Page 95] Wherefore I resolued vpon this course: When the winde blew South, it would blow the Ice off the South shoare, then we would seeke to get to the Westward, betwixt it and the shoare. I must confesse that this was a desperate resolution: for all the coast we knew to be shoald and foule ground, all rocks, and stones: so that if the winde should shift to the Northward, there would be (without Gods mercies) little hope of vs. But here we must not stay: The nights grew long; the cold so increased, that betwixt the pieces of Ice, the Sea would be frozen. I caused the Ship to be fitted, and places conuenient againe prepared to sinke her the second time, if so be we were put to extremities. We presently put our proiect in execution (the winde being at South) and got about the shoalds of the Cape; standing then into the shoare-ward, to get betwixt it and the Ice: we came into foure faddome water (very foule rocky ground) thinking to come to an Anker all night, and let the Ice driue to Leeward. But still there was so much Ice betwixt vs and the shoare, that we were faine to beare vp amongst it into deeper water, and to let the Ship driue amongst it. The winde increasing, we endured a most dangerous darke night of it. In the morning. we fell to worke, to get the Ship againe out of the Ice into some cleere water, which we saw West by South of vs. Some of our company out vpon the Ice, to heaue her with their shoulders: whilest others stood aboord with poles. The rest stood to spill and fill the sayle. By nine in the morning, we had gotten into some cleere water: and stood West and by South; and into foure faddome water, foule ground. But being not able to weather some rands of Ice, which did driue; wee were faine to stand off againe, and (when the euening grew darke) to come to an Anker.
About midnight, there came a great piece of Ice, (which we could not auoyd) athwart of our Cable; and made the Ship driue and dragge her Anker. This droue her into shoald water, it being very rocky and foule ground. We brought the Cable to Capstang, and heau'd with such a courage, that we heau'd home our Anker from vnder it. Thus we did [Page 96] endeauour (the best we could) to keep our selues in eight and ten faddome water. It then pleased God, that the wind blew alongst the shoare: otherwise it had gone far worse with vs.
August. 1632.
The first of this moneth at breake of day, when we could see a little about vs, 1. we fell to struggle and striue againe with the Ice; and to get in neerer to the shoare. There, by reason the winde was opposite to come to an Anker, we let the Ice driue to Leeward: hoping that there was a cleere Sea to the Westward. The Ice droue very thicke vpon vs, and one piece came foule of vs; which did touch our Spreet-sayle Yard, and made the Ship driue: But we soone cleered our selues of it. Then we wayed, and stood in neerer to the shoare: but the water shoalded, and there were so many great rands of Ice betwixt vs and the shoare, that there was no comming to an Anker. So wee turned betwixt the Ice: many pieces of it being aground in shoald water; and few pieces distant one from the other a Cables length. This day, we saw two Sea Morses on the Ice.
The second in the morning, 2. we were glad of the breake of day: hauing most dangerously turn'd amongst the Ice all night, and endured many a heauy blow. We stood in againe to the shoare-ward; to see if we could get some cleere water: for to the Northward it was all impassable Ice. We stood into fiue aad foure faddome: but still all incompast with Ice. So we stood off againe into deeper water: and in the Euening we were inclosed amongst extraordinary great pieces. It was a very thicke fogge withall: so that we made fast the Ship to a great flat piece, and went to sleepe and refresh our selues after our extreme paines taking.
The third, fourth and fift, 3. 4. & 5. wee were inclos'd amongst very great Ice: and it blew such a storme of winde, that we sometimes indeuouring to get forward to the Westward, did strike such heauy blowes, that made all the forepart of the Ship cracke againe. Then we would giue ouer working [Page 97] and let her alone amongst it; but then the Ice would breake and rise vnder vs, that would indanger as bad vs as the former. Our ship doth make aboue a tun of water euery watch, which we must pumpe out, beside our other labour. God thinke on vs, and be mercifull to vs amongst all these dangers.
The fift at noone, 5. we were in Latitude 55. 30. The Cape bearing off vs South-East, by East, some twelue leagues off. And this is all we haue gotten, since the two and twentieth of Iuly. All night it blew a violent gale of wind, at West, North-West: and about midnight, our hawser (by which we had made fast to a piece of Ice) broke, and we lost 14. faddome of it. We beat all night most fearefully, being tost from piece to piece, because that in the darke we durst not venture our men to goe forth on the Ice, for feare of losing them.
All the sixth, 6. the storme indured, and droue vs againe with the Ice, almost to the Cape.
The seuenth was the most comfortablest day wee had, 7. since we came out of our wintering place; the wind came vp faire at East; and we got (although with our former inconueniences and dangers) neerer to the shoare, and into some open water, making good way to the West-ward. Moreouer, our leake now stopt of its owne accord: so that now we pumpt but little. We sayld all night; keeping good watch on the forecastell: bearing vp for one, and looffing for another.
Thus did we the eighth also, but then the wind shifting to the North-west, it droue the Ice on the shoare: and we came to an Anker, in eight faddom water. The maine Ice, we had some two mile to windward of vs: but the set of the tyde kept it off from vs. At noone we were in Latitude 55. 34. In the Euening, a range of Ice droue vpon vs, which made vs weigh, and stand in neerer the shoare, into sixe faddom, and there to come to an Anker. The wind increasing about midnight, the Ship did driue, and was quickely in fiue faddom water: wherefore wee let fall our Shoot-Anker; and both held her. But that that troubled [Page 98] vs, was, that was expected euery minute, when the maine Ice would come vpon vs: and then there would be no hope, but to be put ashoare.
The ninth, 9. in the morning, we waide our second Anker: the Ice being within lesse then a mile of vs. About eight in the morning, a point of it came foule of vs: which we preuented, by waying, and came to an Anker in three faddom and a halfe water. The wind continued North North-West, which was in on the shoare. This morning, I caused all our empty Caske to be fild with water, and the Ship to be left vnpumpt: and the places lookt to, that we had prepared to sinke her. For we were at present in as apparent danger, as any time this voyage: and (to our great griefes) it was all foule rocky ground. The danger of this was, if we made fast to a piece of Ice that drew deepe water; then, as soone as it came to ground on these rockes, it would breake all to pieces, and betray vs to our destruction. About noone, there came foule of vs the point of a range of Ice; which we resolued to indure the extremity of, with an Anker: thinking to ride, and breake through it, we now perceiuing some open water beyond it. Thrusting therefore, and fending with our poles; at last a great piece came thwart our hawser, and there went a pretty Sea amongst it. The Ship did now fall vpon it so violently, that I expected euery blow, she would beate out her bowes. At length, she did driue with it, so that I thought the Cable had bin broken. We brought it to Capstang to heaue it in: but found that our Shoote-Anker was broken in the middle of the shanke. We presently set our sayles thereupon: indeuouring that way to edge in amongst the Ice off of this perilous shoare. It pleased God to fauour our labour so, that by eight in the Euening wee got off into seuen faddom: and a darke night comming on, we made fast to the biggest piece we could find. It blew fairely all night: but about midnight, the wind came vp at North, which was more on the shoare then before. 10. By breake of day, on the tenth, we were driuen into foure faddom, very foule ground: so that the lead did fall off the rocks three or foure foote, [Page 99] we set our sailes, and vsed our vttermost indeuours to edge off. Some of vs went vpon the Ice to hale her: others stood with poles to thrust by night. At night we had gotten off, into eight faddom: and made fast to the biggest piece we could find. If any man should aske why we now kept so neere to the shoare, in this continuall danger: I answer; Because that in the offing, the Ice was so extraordinary thicke, that we could make no way, any way through it. Moreouer, when we were in that great thicke Ice, and that the winde came vp faire at South or South-East or East, we could not get out of it. Wherefore we chose to runne this aduenture; and so preuent and ouercome all dangers with Gods assistance and our extreme labour.
The eleuenth in the morning was a thicke fog: 11. yet there sprung vp a gale of wind at East: and we made in for the shoare.
From the eleuenth till the foureteenth, the winde continued faire: and we made all the saile we could (night and day) as the Ice would suffer vs. We had the shoare in sight by day, on one side, and the Ice within two miles, on the other: and we saild amongst disperst pieces; luffing for one, and bearing vp for another.
The 14. at noone, 14. we were in Latitude 57. 55. In the Euening, we were imbayed in Ice; and stood S. W. to cleere our selues of it, but could not. But seeing from top-mast head, cleere water ouer it, we put into it: but there rose a very thicke fogge, and night came on withall, that we were faine to fast to a piece of Ice, expecting day and better weather.
The 15. in the morning, (although the fogge was very thicke) we indeauoured to get out of the Ice, and stood away West: but within 2. houres the water shoalded from 40. faddome to 25. whereby we knew that we had the shoalding of the Western-shoare. Then we shapte our course to the Northward; the fogge continuing so thicke, that we could not see a Pistoll-shot about vs. We had not stood this way 2. houres, but we heard the rut of the Ice a-head of vs, which made the most hideous noyse, of any we had [Page 100] heard this voyage. We hal'd our tackes aboord, and stood to the West-ward, in this day darknesse: hearing of it sometimes, and sometimes seeing of it: which was very large, deepe, and high Ice, aboue the water. We weathered it all, except some few pieces, and got into open water. About Sunne-set, there came a sudden gust at N. N. W. and before we could handle our sayles, it was with vs, and put vs to some trouble. It dallied with vs by gusts, till 9. a clocke: and then it fell into a most violent storme. We considered where we might haue the cleerest drift: and so tooke in all, and let her driue, her head to the shoare-ward. Before mid-night, the water shoalded on vs, to 15. fadd. Then we turned her head to the Eastward: and set our maine Course low set, but as much as she could indure. The water deepned but little; and we knew that we were on those rockie shoalds, which we strooke on the last yeere. God be mercifull to vs. Here was the first great breaking Sea that we had this yeere.
The 16. 16. in the morning, we were driuen to a great Rand of Ice; to avoyde which, we set our fore-course too: and stood to the shoare-ward, in 13. fad. water: and then about againe. We stood in, a mile into the Ice: but there went such a great swelling Sea in it, that it was not indurable: so we stood out againe. About 3. a clocke in the afternoone, the storme broke vp; and blew faire at N. W. which prooued good for vs: for we had not drift for 4. houres: Besides, it was but 2. leagues betwixt the shoalds and the Ice. We set all our sayles, and indeauoured to weather the Ice: but in the Euening we were still pestered with it. By mid-night, we knew not which way to turne; nor what to doe: so we tooke in all our sayles, and let her driue amongst it. The Ice beat vs on euery side: for there went amongst it a very great full Sea.
The 17. 17. in the morning, when we could see about vs; we were in the middest of the Ice: but with the last storme it was all broken into mammocks, as big as a boate of 3. or 4. Tunnes, which did giue vs many a heauy blow in the darke night. If this storme had taken vs amongst it, it had beaten [Page 101] vs all to pieces, without Gods miraculous preseruation. We made sayle, and indeauoured to cleere our selues of it to the North-ward, which by 8. in the morning, we had done.
We then went to prayer, and gaue God hearty thankes, that had deliuered vs out of it. For we were hourely, for the space of sixe weekes, as it were in the Iawes of death: yea neuer any (that I haue heard of) haue beene so long, in such long nights, vpon a foule shoald shoare, tormented with Ice, as we haue now beene. At noone we were in Latitude 58. 20.
Now as touching the dissolution or ruining of the Ice; we found that this storme had torne and shattered this Rande of Ice, which was on the outside: although it must haue a long time, to worke into the maine body of it. I haue in Iuly, and in the beginning of August, taken some of the Ice into the Ship; and cut it square, 2. foote, and put it into the boate, where the Sunne did shine on it with a very strong reflexe about it. And notwithstanding the warmth of the Ship: (for we kept a good fire) and all our breathings, and motions; it would not melt, in 8. or 10. dayes.
It was our practice when we should be two dayes together fast to a piece of Ice, to set markes on it, to see how it did consume: but it yeelded vs small hope of dissoluing. We could not in that time, perceiue any diminution by the sinking of it or otherwise. Neuerthelesse, I thinke that it is ruined with stormes, or consumed with heate some yeeres: or else the Bay would be fild choke-full: But I confesse, that these secrets of nature are past my apprehension.
Being out of it (but no otherwaies then that we yet saw it from off the deckes, all to the Eastward) I ordered the Master to stere away North and by East, keeping the shoalding of the Wester-shoare.
The 18. 18. at noone, we were in Latitude 59. 30.
The 19. 19. we continued our course betwixt the N. N. E. and the N. by E. and at noone were in Lat. 61. 7. some 12. leagues off the shoare. I ordered the Master, to shape his [Page 102] course North-East, to looke to that place betwixt Caries Swans-nest, and Ne vltra.
The 20. 20. we were in Latitude 61. 45. This day we saw some few Seales about the Ship.
The one and twentieth the water shoalded; so that we 21. made account we did approach the land: but about noone, the wind came vp at N. E. our direct opposite. We looft as neere it as we could, and as it larg'd, we came to stand East, and East and by North.
The two and twentieth, 22. we fell with the land to the West-ward of Caries Swans-nest: Where we had forty faddome, three leagues off. We stood in, within a league of the shoare, into thirteene faddome: and seeing the land to the South-ward of vs, we compast about it: it being Caries Swans-nest: which is in Latitude 52. degr. 00. Minutes.
All the 23. 23. we sayled North-East; and for the most part in sight of land.
The foure and twentieth at noone, 24. (by Iudgement) we were in Latitude 63. 30. hauing sayld a North-East course. All this day was a very thicke fog: which about one a clocke, cleerd a little: so that I expected to see the land. Some of our men being better sighted, spyed it out about some two leagues off from vs. I knew it could be no other then Nottingham Iland: though it were something contrary to the expectation of our best Marriners. We stood into it to make it. It was the North end of it: and it bare off vs, due East. I was soone assured of it; and I ordered the Master to shape his course North-West, and by North. Both he and others were vnwilling: but without much adoe, submitted themselues: (how loth so euer) for that it was so very foule thicke weather. The reasons of my resolution were these: The time of the yeere was far spent; and the discommodities of Winter came vpon vs: and therefore would I make the shortest way, betwixt the lands already discouered. If I found an open Sea, I had my desire, and did then intend to proceed to the vttermost of our power: if we met with the land, I [Page 103] should then finish the discouery: it being not passing fifteene leagues from land to land, and not passing tenne leagues from Nottingham Iland, to the maine of the North shoare. We made what sayle we could; it blowing a very stiffe gale of wind vntill eight in the Euening: then it began to blow fiercely: and we tooke in our topsayles, and stood vnder our two courses and Bonnets. At nine, it blew a violent storme at South, South-East, so that we tooke in our fore-saile, and let her driue North-West. All the night it continued an extraordinary storme: so that we heaued the Leade, euery halfe watch: But the Ship did driue so fast, that she would be past the Leade, before there was twenty faddom of line out, all the night being exceeding cold withall.
The fiue and twentieth, 25. the storme continued in his vttermost malice, and did so perplexe vs, that there were but few that did sleepe or eate a bit these twenty foure houres. About sixe a clocke in the afternoone, the Storme began to slaken: yet blew there a fierce gale of wind betwixt the South and South-West. We stood West, North-West, and made a North-West way, when suddenly the Sea became very smooth. We reasoned thereupon amongst our selues, what might be the cause of it. VVe all thought it, to be the Lee-ward tyde; nothing doubting what afterwards we encountered. The Ship had very quicke way in this smooth water.
The sixe and twentieth, by two a clocke in the morning, we were suddenly come in amongst the Ice: and it pleased God, 26. that the Moone at the instant gaue vs so much light, that we could see a little about vs. We would haue staid the Ship, but it was so thicke to wind-ward, and so neere vs, that we durst not. Wee then bore vp in this vnexpected accident; and (I verily beleeue) did not scape striking, the length of a foote, against the Ice as hard as rockes, two or three times: the Shippe now hauing way, after twelue leagues a watch. Then wee stood close by a wind to the Eastward; expecting day, that wee might see about vs. Wee could from top-mast head see the Ice to the North North-West, the North-west, and so round about by the South, to the East, [Page 104] and some there was to Leeward of vs. It was all flat sound Ice, in maine rands: and the Sea as smooth as a well amongst it. This strooke vs all into a dumpe: whereupon I called a consultation of my Associates: namely, Arthur Price, Master: William Clements, Lieutenant; Iohn Whittered, Masters Mate; Nathaniel Bilson, Chirurgion; and Iohn Palmer, Boateswayne: requiring them to aduise and counsell mee, how to prosecute our businesse to effect. These all went together, and reasoned amongst themselues; and then brought me their opinions in writing, vnder their hands:
Videlicet, Our aduice is, that you repaire homeward, from this present twentie sixth: and that for these reasons. First, for that the nights are long and so extreme cold withall; that we can hardly handle our sayles, and riggings. Secondly, the times are now subiect to stormy and gusty weather: as witnesseth the present season: it hauing continued a storme euer since the twentie fourth, and doth yet continue, no weather to discouer in. Thirdly, we doubt whether Hudsons Straights be so cleere of Ice, that it may be passable in conuenient time: (winter comming now on apace) before we be frozen vp: seeing the Ice lyes here all ouer the Sea in rands and ranges. Fourthly, wee must haue a set of faire weather, to passe the Straight; which we may stay a long time; for, if we neglect the first opportunity. Fiftly, for that our Ship is very leaky, so that in foule weather we are faine to pumpe euery glasse: which is great labour. Moreouer, we know her to be so sorely bruised with rocks, and blowes of the Ice; that shee is no more to be aduentur'd amongst it, but in sauing of our liues homewards. Besides all this, our men grow very weake and sickly, with extreme labour.
Sixthly, the season of the yeere is so farre spent, that we can expect no other weather, then we haue had; both lately and at present: That is to say, snow and fogge; freezing our rigging, and making euery thing so slippery, that a man can scarce stand: And all this, with the winde Southerly; which if it should come to the Northward; then we are to expect farre worse. Seuenthly and lastly, that the Ice lyes all in thicke [Page 105] rands and ranges, in the very way we should goe: as you and all men here may see. And therefore wee conclude, as aforesaid; That there is no possibilitie of proceeding further: wherefore we here counsell you to returne homeward: hoping that God will giue vs a fauourable passage, and returne vs home safe into our natiue countreys: If we take time, and not tempt him too farre, by our wilfulnesse.
Indeed most of these reasons were in view; and I could not tell what to say to oppose them: no nor any reason could I giue, how we might proceed further: wherefore (with a sorrowfull heart, God knowes) I consented, that the helme should bee borne vp, and a course shapte for England: well hoping, that his Maiestie would graciously censure of my endeauours, and pardon my returne. And although wee haue not discouered populous kingdomes, and taken speciall notice of their Magnificence, power, and policies, brought samples home of their riches and commodities: pryed into the mysteries of their trades, and traffique: nor made any great fight against the enemies of God and our Nation: yet I wish our willingnesse in these desart parts may be acceptable to our Readers. When we bore vp Helme, we were in latitude 65. 30. at least; North-west and by North, from Nottingham Iland. Some were of an opinion, that we were further to the Northward: but by reason it was by Iudgement, I chose to set downe the lesser distance.
The twentie seuenth, 27. the winde came vp at North-west: with which winde we could not haue gone on our designe. That winde made no great swelling Sea. By noone, we were athwart of Cape Charles: so that we went in betwixt that Cape, and Mill Ilands. The last night it did snow very much; & was very cold: so that all our rigging & sayles were frozen, and all the land couered ouer with snow. And here, (sithence I haue formerly spoken that it snowes very much) it will not be amisse to consider of the reasons of it. When I was vpon Charleton Iland, (our wintering place) and in Iune, when the snow was cleereliest gone off the ground; I haue in the [Page 106] nights, (& some of them following the hottest dayes) obserued, whether there fell any dew or no: but I could neuer perceiue any, & (vnder correction of the learned) from mosse and sand, little (mee thoughts) was to be expected. Now, of what was exhald from the snowy Ice, and cold Sea; could there probably be returned but the like againe. Generally, we continued on our course, blinded with foggie and durtie weather; and that, intermixt with snow, and frost; amongst disperst pieces of Ice: many of them higher then our Top-mast head.
With great varietie of winds, we were also driuen within three leagues of both shoares: so that the last of this moneth, we were in the narrow of the Straight: which is about fifteene leagues ouer: the South shoare was much pestred with Ice.
September. 1632.
The first, 1. & 2. and second, we continued our endeuour to get on our way. The third in the euening, as the weather cleered vp; we did see the South end of the Iland of Resolution.
These three dayes and nights had beene extreme cold, 3. with fogge and frost: insomuch that our men in the euening, could hardly take in our Top-sayles and Spreet-sayle. We haue sayled thorow much mountainous Ice; farre higher then our Top-mast head. But this day we sayled by the highest that I euer yet saw: which was incredible, indeed, to be related. Now as the winde comes Easterly, wee feele another Sea, out of the Ocean, and the Ship labours with another motion, then she hath done with any that euer we obserued, to come out of the Westward.
From the third to the eighth, 8. we had varietie of winds; and were gotten cleere out of the Straights: but were now comne into such a tumbling Sea, (the weather durtie and gustie, and by interims calme againe) that the Ship did so labour, and rowle, that wee thought verily shee would haue [Page 107] rowled her Masts by the boord. This made her so leaky, that we were faine to pumpe euery glasse: yea, her seames did so open aloft, that we lay all wet in her.
This was the last day that wee saw any Ice. The winde now fauouring vs; we made all the haste we could homeward. By the way, (hauing endeauoured, obserued, and experimented some things in my vnfortunate voyage) I perfected vp my said obseruations: which being after commanded to publish; I here most submissely offer vnto the Iudicious Readers: and raine our priuate opinion withall, concerning the faiseablenesse of the Action intended; which was to finde a passage into the South Sea.
What hath beene long agoe fabled by some Portingales, that should haue comne this way out of the South Sea: the meere shaddowes of whose mistaken Relations haue comne to vs: I leaue to be confuted by their owne vanitie. These hopes haue stirred vp from time to time, the more actiue spirits of this our Kingdome, to research that meerely imaginary passage. For mine owne part, I giue no credit to them at all; and as little to the vicious, and abusiue wits of later Portingals and Spaniards: who neuer speake of any difficulties: as shoald water, Ice, nor sight of land: but as if they had beene brought home in a dreame or engine. And indeed their discourses are found absurd: and the plots, (by which some of them haue practised to deceiue the world) meere falsities: making Sea where there is knowne to be maine land: and land, where is nothing but Sea.
Most certaine it is, that by the onely industry of our owne Nation, those Northerne parts of America haue beene discouered, to the Latitude of 80. degrees, and vpwards. And it hath beene so curiously done, (the labours of seuerall men being ioyned together) that the maine land hath beene both seene and searcht; and they haue brought this supposed passage to this passe; that it must be to the North, of sixty sixe degrees of Latitude. A cold Clyme, pestered with Ice, and other discommodities, and where the Spaniards dispositions, [Page 108] and their weake Speeke Ships, can hardly long indure it. And withall, it is thus knowne, that the entrance of Hudsons Straights is but 15. leagues broad: in the middle not so much. And betwixt Salisbury Iland, and the maine; that it is but 8. leagues. Then proceeding to the Northwards, towards the fore-mentioned Latitude: it is but 15. leagues from mayne to mayne. This in length, is but about a hundred and forty leagues: as may more plainely appeare by the Mappe. Most infinitely pestered withall it is with the Ice, vntill August, and some yeeres not passable then: yea I beleeue the straight is neuer cleere of Ice thorowly.
Now most probable it is, that there is no passage: And that for these reasons following.
First, that there is a constant Tyde flood and ebbe, setting into Hudsons Straights: the flood still comming from the East-ward: which as it proceedes, (correspondent to the distance,) it alters his time of full sea. This also entering into Bayes, and broken ground, it becomes distracted, and reuerses with halfe tydes.
Secondly, here is no small fish; as Cod, &c. and very few great ones, which are rarely to be seene. Nor are there any bones of Whales, Sea-horses, or other great fish, to be found on the shoare: nor any drift-wood.
Thirdly, that we found the Ice in the Latitude of 65. 30. to be lying all ouer the sea in randes: and I am most certaine, that the shoalds and shoald-Bayes are the mother of it. Had there now beene any Ocean beyond it, it would haue beene broke all to pieces: for so we found it comming thorow the Straight into the Sea, to the Eastward.
Fourthly, the Ice seekes his way to the Eastward, and so driues out at Hudsons Straight: which I haue often obserued being aland, vpon the Iland of Resolution, and driuing amongst the Ice in the Straight.
Now admit there were a passage, yet is it knowne, that it is partly narrow, for a hundred and forty leagues, and to be infinitely pestered with Ice withall: as euery one haue found, [Page 109] who haue gone that way. Comparing therefore some obseruation taken at Bantam, Gulolo, and at Firando in Iapan: and the distance betwixt Iapan and the Wester-part of Califurnia: with the obseruations taken at Charleton Iland, (referring all to the Meridian of London) and then the distance betwixt the Meridians of Cape Charles, and the Westerpart of Califurnia, will be found to be about 500. leagues, in the Latitude of 66. 00. where yet the Meridians incline very much together.
To this may be added, that neere about Cape Charles, the variation is 29 degrees to the West: which is a probable argument, that there is much land to the Westward: and that this straight must be very long, and that you haue no time to passe it but in August and September: when the nights are so long, and the weather so cold, that it will not bee indurable.
Adde to this, That neither can any great Ships, which are fit for carrying of Marchandize, indure the Ice, and other discommodities: without extraordinary danger.
Moreouer, a thousand leagues is sooner sayled to the Southward, and about the Cape de Bona Speranza, (where the winds are constant) and that with safety, then a hundred in these seas, where you must dayly runne the hazzard of losing Ship and liues. Put hereunto, that comfort for the sicke, or refreshing for your men, here is none to be had in these quarters.
Towards the latter end of August, and in September, the weather growes tempestuous, and the winds incline to be Westerly, that there will be but small hope of performing your voyage this way.
But let vs (by way of imagination onely) inlarge this Straight, in this Latitude; and free it of Ice: yet what aduantage, in speedy performance, will be gotten by this passage, if the winds be withall considered? To Iapan, China, and the Northerne parts of Asia, it may be the neerer cut: but in Nauigation, the farthest way about, is well knowne, [Page 110] in fewer dayes to be performed, yea with lesser paines, and more safety of Ship and goods.
Againe; to the East Indies, and other parts, where we haue the greatest Commerce and imployment of shipping; the other way is as neere. What benefit of Trade might haue beene obtained in those Northerne parts of Asia, I will not presume to speake of: holding that there is a great difference betwixt those parts, and the Northerne parts of America; whereas I am sure that there is none in any place where I haue beene, all this voyage.
The two and twentieth of October, 22. we arriued in the Rode of Bristoll: hauing beene hindered and crost with much contrary tempestuous windes and weather. The Ship being brought into Harbour, and halde dry aground to looke to her: it was there found; that all her Cut-water and Sterne were torne and beaten away, together with fourteene foote of her Keele; much of her sheathing cut away: her bowes broken and bruised, and many timbers crackt within boord: and vnder the Star-boord bulge, a sharpe Rocke had cut thorow the sheathing, the planke, and an inch and a halfe into a timber that it met withall. Many other defects there were besides, so that it was miraculous how this vessell could bring vs home againe. Being all here arriued; we went all to Church, and gaue God thankes for his preseruation of vs amidst so many dangers. I very well know, that what I haue here hastily written, will neuer discourage any noble spirit, that is minded to bring this so long tryed Action to absolute effect. And it is likely withall, that there be some, who haue a better vnderstanding, and a surer way of prosecuting of it, then my selfe haue. To whose designes I wish a happy successe. And if they doe but make a reuiew of what hath beene done, and giue more certaine Coelestiall obseruations, Hydrographicall descriptions, or exacter practice in Nauigation: it will be a most commendable labour. For although I haue spent some yeeres of my ripest age, in procuring vaine intelligence from forraine Nations: and haue [Page 111] trauailed vnto diuers Honourable and Learned personages of this kingdome, for their instructions; haue bought vp whateuer I could find in print, or manuscript, and what plot or paper soeuer conducing to this businesse, that possibly I could procure; and haue serued voluntary besides; and spent some time in rendring a relation (since my comming home) and expended withall of my owne monies, in my foresaid indeauours, and in furnishing of extraordinary necessaries, aboue two hundred pounds in ready money: yet I repent not my selfe, but take a great deale of comfort and ioy, in that I am able to giue an account (in some reasonable way) of those parts of the world; which heretofore I was not so well satisfied in.
THE COPIE OF THE Letter I left at CHARLETON, fastened to the Crosse the first of Iuly, 1632.
BE it knowne to any that shall haply arriue here, on this Iland of Charleton: That whereas our Soueraigne Lord Charles the first, King of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, Defender of the faith, &c. hauing a desire to be certified, whether there were any passage, or not, by the North-west or Northwestward, thorow these Territories, into the South Sea: Some of the better-minded Merchants, of the Worshipfull Company of Merchant-aduenturers of the Citie of Bristoll, to satisfie his Maiestie therein; did voluntarily offer to set forth a conuenient Ship for that purpose, well man'd, victualed, and furnished with all other necessaries. This free offer of theirs was not only commended; but graciously accepted of his Maiestie. Whereupon, they fitted and furnished foorth a Ship, called the Henrietta Maria, of the burthen of seuentie Tuns, victualed for eighteene moneths A number thought conuenient to mannage such a businesse, was twentie two, whereof nineteene were choiceable men, two yonkers, and my vnworthy selfe their Commander. All which, the Bristow Merchants did most iudiciously and bountifully accommodate, and had in a readinesse, the first of May, 1631.
The third of May, we began our Voyage out of the Rode of Bristoll; commonly called Kings Rode: Passing about the Cape Cleere of Ireland, vpon many courses, but reduced to a West North-west, we sayled along: and vpon the 4. of Iune, wee made the land of Groynland to the Northward of Cape Farewell: where for the space of two dayes, we were dangerously ingagde amongst the Ice. Being cleere of it, we doubled Cape Farewell to the Southward, and so continued our [Page 113] course to the Westward; continually sayling and thrusting the Ship thorow much Ice. The 19. of Iune, we made the Iland of Resolutiō: & endeuouring to cōpasse about it to the Southward, we were taken with a strong Westerly wind, which droue the Ice, and it vs, vpon the shoare. In that distresse, (seeing it was broken grounds and maine inlets into it,) I sent the Shallop to seek & sound a place, for our refuge; but when she was departed, she was in as great danger as we: and could not returne to vs, by reason of the Ice. We being now driuen very neere the rocks, were faine to set our Sayles, and force the Ship into an opening: aduenturing her amongst vnknowne dangers, to auoyd apparent; before we could moore her in a place (as we thought) safe from danger. The 22. of Iune (this Inlet being full of Ice,) that Ice vpon the ebbe, so Iambde one piece into another, that it altred the ordinary course of it, & it came vpon the Ship, and put her against the rocks: notwithstanding our vtmost resistance. As the water ebd away, the Ship hung by the Keele vpon a rocke; and heeld to the Offing. As soone as we perceiued this, we made fast some Hawsers to her Masts, and to the rocks, to hold her vpright. But all in vaine; shee sunke still, as the water ebb'd away: so that she was so turned ouer, that we could not stand in her. Hereupon, we got all vpon a piece of Ice, looking vpon her, & praying God to be mercifull to vs. The rocke that she hung vpon, was a little abaft the maine Mast; which made her hang after the head: and shee sunke ouer so much, that the Portlasse of the Forecastell was in the water. At length, it pleased God, the flood came; before it had ebd so low as the tyde before and after, by a foote: and the Ship rose, and was safe and sound. And thus were we miraculously deliuered. With the first winde, we proceeded to the Westward: continually being pestred with so much Ice, that it was about the middle of Iuly, before we could attaine to Sir Dudly Digges Iland. And here I was put to my consideration: for whereas by my directions, I was to search especially two places; one from Digges Iland to the Northward; and fayling there, to goe to the Checks and Hubberts Hope, and so to search it to the Southward; [Page 114] I now finding the Sea much pestred with Ice in the latitude of 64. 00. and as farre as we could see to the Northward; and that the time was so farre spent, as that before I could do any thing that way, it would be Aug. & then as much trouble to returne againe to Digges Iland: and that by that time, the yeere would be so farre spent, the nights so long and cold; that I feard I should be forced with shame to returne into England againe that yeere. Wherefore I tooke my way to the Westward, by Mansfields Iland; on which I landed twice, still hindred and incumbred with Ice. Thence I proceeded to the Westward; hoping for an open Sea in the Bay. We were there more troubled with Ice, then in any place before: so that it was the eleuenth day of August, before we had sight of the Western land; which we made in latitude 59. 30. something to the Southward of the Checkes. Wee were not able to attaine thither, by reason of the contrary winds and Ice: but were obseruant of the currant of the tydes: which after, by experience, we found to come from the Northward. We coasted alongst the shoare, in sight of land; and in 10. faddome water, to the Southward: and entred that Inlett, which heretofore was called Hubberts Hope: which was the very place, where the passage should be, as it was thought by the vnderstandingest and learnedest intelligencer of this businesse in England. We sayld to the very bottome of it, into three faddom water: and found it to be a Bay of some 18. or 19. leagues deepe. From thence we proceeded to the Southward, in sight of land for the most part; and although I was as carefull to keepe the lead alwaies going (it blowing a fresh gale of winde, and a pretty bigge Sea) our depth 8. 9. 10. faddome: yet before the lead was vp, the Ship strook vpon a flat rocke: (she then being vnder foresayle, fore top-sayle, maine top-sayle, and Spreetsayle) and gaue three fore knocks, and got ouer it. Being past this danger, we proceeded, and past by Port Nelson. Finding the land trend to the Eastward, wee began our discouery of it more carefully: because that no man (that euer I could heare [Page 115] or reade of) did euer see this land before. Wee stood into sixe and fiue faddome: for it is very low land, and trends for the most part East South-east, and East by South.
The seuen and twentieth of August, I entred vpon it, and in the name of the Merchants Aduenturers of Bristoll, tooke possession of it, to his Maiesties vse; naming it, The New South-west Principalitie of Wales. I brought from the land, some small trees and herbs, and killed diuers sorts of fowle; in signe of seysure, which I brought aboord. Not long after, (being put backe to the Westward with contrary winds) we spake with Captaine Fox, in a Ship of his Maiesties, set forth for the same purpose that we were: I inuited him aboord, and entertained him with such fare, as we had taken in this new discouered land: and made him relation of all our endeauours: The like did he to vs, and withall told vs, that he had beene in Port Nelson: where he had put vp a Shallop, and found there many things which Sir Thomas Button had left there. The next day, he departed from vs, and stood to the Westward; and we neuer saw him since. His Ship, He, and all his Company, were very well. We continued our discouery to the Eastward, and came to the Easter point, which is in latitude 55. 06. which we named it Cape Henrietta Maria. There the land trends to the Southward, and we followed it in sight; but were put off with foule weather; which being ouer-blowne, we stood in againe for the Westershoare (that we might leaue no part vnseene) and followed it againe to latitude 54. 40. The second time wee also put off, with like foule weather: which made vs stand to the Eastward. In this way we past by some Ilands, and happened amongst broken grounds, and rocks; in latitude 53. 30. where wee came to an Anker, and sheltred our selues some few dayes, shifting Rodes. Now the Winter began to come on, and the nights to be long and cold; that amongst these dangerous places, wee were faine to spend the day to looke for securitie for the night. Here, by misfortune, our Ship came aground; and that amongst great stones, as bigge as a mans [Page 116] head; where shee did beate for the space of fiue houres, most fearefully. In this time, we lightened her, and carried some of our things ashoare: so that by the great fauour of God, we got her off againe, whereupon we named this Iland, the Iland of Gods fauour. After that againe, amongst those Rockes, we were put to many extremities. At length, (hauing a gentle Southerly winde) we stood alongst the Eastershoare, to the Northward: now looking for a conuenient place to winter in. And here againe, were we assaulted with a violent storme, in which we lost our Shallop, and were driuen amongst diuers dangers: and seeing an opening betwixt two Ilands, we ventered to goe in, in very foule weather. We found it to be a very good Sound, and there we came to an Anker. We landed on one of them, which we named the Lord Westons Iland; and man'd out our old Ship boate vpon it. The other Iland we named my Lord of Bristols Iland. Parting from hence, wee stood to the South-ward, to looke for a wintering place: because the time of discouery was past for this yeere. Many were our troubles amongst these Ilands, shoalds, and broken grounds; which made vs straine our ground tackle for life, many a time.
The 6. of October, we arriued in this Bay; it seeming a very likely place to finde a Harbour in: but searching the likeliest places, we found it all so shoald flats and Rocks, and stony by the shoare side; that we could by no meanes bring our Ship neere the shoare, but were forced to ride a league off, in 3. faddome and a halfe water.
The winter came on apace, the weather proued tempestuous; and the cold so multiplied, that our sailes froze in lumps to the yards, vnmanuable. Neither could our onely boate goe from the Ship, by reason of the weather. About the middle of October, I caused a house to be made ashoare where our sicke men might the better recouer: but alwayes with an intent to take it downe, if we found other-where, a place for our Ship. I sent likewise men afoote (seeing the boate could [Page 117] not goe) to discouer the Iland, and to see if they could find some Creeke or Coue; but all in vaine, we spent the time with hope of fairer weather, till now the Cables began to freeze in the house, and the Ship to be frozen ouer with the sprewe of the Sea: so that we were faine to shouell the snow off our decks. Moreouer, the water began so to congeale by the shoare side, that the boate could hardly get ashoare. Yet for all that, if the wind blew N. W. there went a very great surfe on the shoare, and such a great Sea in the Bay, that there was no bringing of our Ship aground. Besides this, she would haue then laine open to the E. and S. E. and S. and indeed the neerest land, all about that way, was 2. leagues off. Hereupon, we continued out the extremity, at an Anker.
The 29. of Nouember, the Ice came about vs on all sides, and put vs from our ground tackle, and would haue driuen vs out of the Bay vpon Rockes and shoalds (where vndoubtedly we had perished) but that by Gods great goodnesse, it proued so warme a day (the winde at S.) that suddenly we brought vp some sayle, and hoyst it vp with ropes, and so forst her ashoare; where shee beat all that night very sorely. The Ship being now grounded and quiet, wee considered what was best to doe with her, and resolued to sinke her: but the next tyde, before we had any of our prouisions ashoare, the winde came N. W. so that the Ship beat most fearefully. We got all our dry prouisions vp to the vpper decke, and made a hole to sinke her: but before she was sunke, she beat so extraordinarily, that we all thought she had beene foundered. Being sunke downe so low, that the water came on the vpper decke, we tooke our boate and went all ashoare, in such pittifull cold weather, that we were all so white frozen, that some sicke men that were ashoare before, did not know vs one from another.
The next day we fell to land our prouisions; first our Bread, Fish, and dry things, the men driuen to wade in the water vp to the middles, most lamentable to behold. Within 2. dayes, what with great flat pieces that stucke about vs, and that [Page 118] which froze, it was becomne firme Ice, betwixt the Ship and the shoare: so that then we were faine to carry all things on our backs a mile from the Ship to the house. Within few dayes, the hold became so frozen, that we could not get all our things out of it, but were faine there to leaue it frozen, till the next yeere. Then we made vs 2. other houses: our first house was our Mansion house, wherein we did all lye together: our other was to dresse our victuall; and the third for a store-house: which we built a pretty distance off, for feare of fire. And now we considered of the estate we were in, we all doubted that the Ship was foundered: especially our Carpenter. But suppose she were sound: yet was it a question, whether we could get her off in the Summer, when the tydes are low. Moreouer, she might be spoyled, lying in the tydes way, when the Ice brake vp: and then we should be destitute of any vessell to bring vs home. The Carpenter vndertooke to build a Pinnace, of the burthen of 12. or 14. tunnes, that should be ready by the Spring: that if we found the Ship vnseruiceable, we might teare her vp, and planke her with the Ships planke. Vpon this we resolued, and by May brought it to that passe, that she was ready to be ioyned together, to receyue the planke. But God mercifully prouided otherwise for vs: We indured a bitter cold winter, in which it pleased God to visit vs with sicknesse: so that in the beginning of May 1632. there was but my selfe and the Master and Surgeon perfectly sound: and he began to finde some defect also. About the beginning of Aprill, we began to digge the Ice out of our Ship, which by the middle of May, we had effected.
The 24. of May, the Ice began to breake vp betwixt the Ship and the shoare: and about the middle of Iune, we had off our Ship, and found her to be stanch and sound, contrary to all our expectations. Before this time, about the middle of May, our Carpenter dyed: and with him, the hope of our Pinnace: Master Wardon dyed the 6. of May: our Gunner Richard Edwards had his legge broken (which was [Page 119] cut off) at the Capstang in August 1631. and languished till the 22. of Nouember: on which day he dyed. These three men lye buried here vnder these Tombes of stones. We lost another man; one Iohn Barton our Quarter-Master, who mis-carried in the little Bay that is due West from this Crosse 3. mile: the Ice breaking vnder him, so that he sunke downe, and we neuer saw him more. The two Pictures which are wrapt in lead, and fastened vppermost on this Crosse, are the liuely pictures of our Soueraigne Lord and Lady, Charles, the first; and Queene Mary his wife; King and Queene of England, Scotland, France and Ireland, &c. The next vnder that, is his Maiesties Royall Armes: the lowermost is the Armes of the City of Bristoll.
And now we are in a readinesse to depart this day, and I intend to prosecute our discouery to the West-ward, in this Latitude of 52. 03. and to the South-ward also, although with little hope. Failing there, I meane to haste to Diggs Iland, and indeauour to discouer to the North-ward. Thus hauing had some experience of the dangers of the Ice, shoalds, and Rockes of vnknowne places: I thought it necesary to leaue this testimony of vs and our indeauours, if God should take vs into his heauenly Kingdome, and frustrate our returne into our natiue Countrey. Wherefore I desire any noble minded Trauailer, that shall take this downe, or come to the knowledge of it: that he will make relation of it to our Soueraigne Lord the Kings Maiesty, and to certifie his Grace, that we cannot as yet finde any hope of a passage this way: and that I doe faithfully perseuer in my seruice: accounting it but my duty, to spend my life to giue his Maiestie contentment; whom I beseech God to blesse with all happinesse. And that they would likewise aduertise our worshipfull Aduenterers, of all our fortunes; and that if as afore-said wee perish, it was not by any want or defect in Ship or victuall, or other necessaries; all which we haue in abundance for foure moneths and aboue: which if occasion be, wee can prolong to sixe moneths. [Page 120] Thus being at present vnable to expresse a gratefull mind otherwise but in my prayers to God: I heartily beseech him to powre out his bountifull blessing vpon all their honest indeauours, and to continue their noble dispositions in Actions of this kinde. And I faithfully promise, that if I shall come where the like Letters and Tokens shall be left, to make a true relation of it, as it shall be desired. So desiring the happinesse of all mankinde, in our generall Sauiour Christ Iesus: I end.
THE NAMES OF THE seuerall Instruments, I prouided and bought for this Voyage.
A Quadrant of old seasoned Pearetree-wood, artificially made: and with all care possible diuided with Diagonals, euen to minutes. It was of foure foote (at least) Semidiameter.
An Equilaterall Triangle of like wood; whose Radius was fiue foote at least; and diuided out of Petiscus Table of Tangents.
A Quadrant of two foote Semid. of like wood: and with like care proiected.
The Sights, Centers, and euery other part of them lookt to, and tryed with conuenient Compasses: to see if they had beene wrongd or altred. And this continually, before they were made vse of.
Staues for taking Altitudes and Distances in the heauens.
A Staffe of seuen foote long; whose Transome was foure foote; diuided into equall parts by way of Diagonals, that all the figures in a Radius of tenne thousand, might be taken out, actually.
Another of sixe foote, neere as conuenient: and in that manner to be vsed.
Masters Gunters Crosse-Staffe.
Three Iacobs Staues, proiected after a new manner: and truly diuided out of the Table of Tangents.
Two of Master Davis Backe-staues: with like care made and deuided.
Of Horizontall Instruments.
Two Semicircles, two foote Semidiameter: of seasoned Pearetree wood: and diuided with Diagonals, to all possible exactnesse.
[Page] Sixe Meridian Compasses, ingeniously made; besides some doozens of others, more common.
Foure Needles in square boxes, of sixe inches Diameter: and other sixe, of three inches Diameter.
Moreouer, foure speciall Needles, (which my good friends Master Allen and Master Marre gaue mee) of sixe inches diameter: and toucht curiously, with the best Loade-stone in England.
A Loade-stone to refresh any of these, if occasion were: whose Poles were marked, for feare of mistaking.
A Watch-clocke, of sixe inches Diameter: and another lesser Watch.
A Table euery day Calculated; correspondent to the Latitude: according to Master Gunters directions in his booke; the better to keepe our Time and our Compasse, to iudge of our Course.
A Chest full of the best and choisest Mathematicall bookes, that could be got for money in England: as likewise Master Hackluite, and Master Purchas: and other books of Iournals and Histories.
Study Instruments, of all sorts.
I caused many small Glasses to be made; whose part of time, I knew to a most insensible thing: and so diuided and appropriated the Logg-line, to them: making vse of Wilbrordus, Snellius his numbers of feete answering to a Degree: and approoued of by Master Gunter.
I made a Meridian-line, of 120. yards long: with sixe Plumb-lines hanging in it: some of them being aboue 30. foot high, and the weights hung in a hole in the ground, to avoyde winde. And this to take the Sunnes or Moones comming to the Meridian. This line wee verified, by setting it by the Pole it selfe, and by many other wayes.
Two paire of curious Globes; made purposely: the workeman being earnestly affected to this Voyage.
[Page] This was the manner that we tooke the variation of the Compasse, and that as often as conueniently we could, but diuers of the Tables by negligence of my Boy are lost: but these (I hope) may suffice to giue satisfaction of our care in Nauigation.
Iuly 13 th. 1631.
These 13. Azimuths with the Altitu. Dec. were taken vpon a great piece of Ice, with three Needles together: then the Declination was not equated, the last three set foorth by themselues, prooues the rest: viz. the Azimuth of West with his variation: the Azimuth at due West, And the variation by the Altitude and Azimuth at due West.
These were taken twentie leagues to the Eastward of Salisbury Iland; and 2. quad. one of 4. another of 2. foote Semid. Semicircle of 2. foote Semid.
La. | De on. | AL.☉ | AZM | F. | T. AZ | F. | Var. |
63 01 | 20 14 | 39 42 | 77 50 | S | 50 11 | S | 27 39 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 35 33 | 90 00 | 62 12 | S | 27 48 | |
63 01 | 20 14 | 34 24 | 76 30 | N | 65 07 | S | 27 23 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 31 24 | 80 18 | N | 72 12 | S | 27 30 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 30 57 | 78 53 | N | 73 21 | S | 27 46 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 29 00 | 74 50 | N | 77 28 | S | 27 42 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 27 10 | 71 00 | N | 98 42 | N | 27 42 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 25 52 | 68 28 | N | 96 02 | N | 27 34 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 25 00 | 66 40 | N | 94 16 | N | 27 36 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 24 00 | 64 50 | N | 92 16 | N | 27 26 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 23 30 | 64 00 | N | 91 18 | N | 27 44 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 22 50 | 27 35 | N | 89 58 | N | 27 33 |
63 01 | 20 14 | 22 30 | 61 24 | N | 89 18 | N | 27 44 |
The meane Var on is 27. 36. | |||||||
The variation of the Altit: and Azim: of West. 27 33. | |||||||
The variation of the Azimuth of West. 27. 48. | |||||||
The variation by Azim. at due West. 27. 35. | |||||||
The meane of these three is 27 38. |
Iuly 22. 1631.
These three Azimuths and Altitudes were taken vpon a piece of Ice the Magneticall Azimuths by the Sunnes shade in the water, the ayre thicke of fogge, that the Sunne gaue no perfect shade otherwayes: 10. leagues West from Mansfields Iland.
La. | Decl. | AL. ☉. | AZM | F. | T. AZ | Fr | Var. |
60 33 | 18 25 | 34 06 | 90 00 | S | 64 34 | S | 25 26 |
60 33 | 18 25 | 31 34 | 84 48 | N | 70 08 | S | 25 04 |
60 33 | 18 25 | 18 25 | 71 35 | N | 82 54 | N | 25 21 |
The meane is 25. 17 |
Iuly 24. 1631.
These 11 Azimuths, were taken vpon a piece of Ice about the middle of the great Bay: some of them by the shade, and some by the sight of the Sunne in the water, the weather being thicke of fogge.
La. | Decl. | AL. ☉. | AZM | F. | T. AZ | F. | Var. |
59 20 | 17 40 | 36 44 | 82 50 | S | 59 04 | S | 22 46 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 35 44 | 83 40 | S | 61 18 | S | 22 22 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 33 02 | 90 00 | 67 14 | S | 22 46 | |
59 20 | 17 40 | 29 49 | 84 25 | N | 73 40 | S | 21 55 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 27 25 | 79 50 | N | 75 10 | S | 22 00 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 26 27 | 78 10 | N | 87 14 | S | 22 14 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 23 48 | 72 35 | N | 84 38 | S | 22 47 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 21 16 | 68 47 | N | 88 38 | S | 22 35 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 20 40 | 67 30 | N | 90 00 | 22 30 | |
59 20 | 17 40 | 20 10 | 67 00 | N | 89 00 | N | 22 12 |
59 20 | 17 40 | 19 34 | 66 00 | N | 88 10 | N | 22 10 |
The meane is 22 d. 23. 21. |
Iuly 31 th. 1631.
These seuerall Azimuths were taken vpon a piece of Ice: 50. leagues off the Wester-shoare.
AL. ☉. | AZ. M | F. | T. AZ | F. | Var. | |
24 00 | 76 26 | N | 99 20 | N | 22 54 | Latitude |
23 35 | 76 00 | N | 98 38 | N | 22 38 | 58 43 43 |
22 50 | 75 00 | N | 97 18 | N | 22 18 | |
22 05 | 73 40 | N | 96 04 | N | 22 24 | Declina. |
20 32 | 71 20 | N | 93 32 | N | 22 12 | 15 43 43 |
18 40 | 67 55 | N | 90 24 | N | 22 29 | |
18 30 | 67 30 | N | 90 02 | N | 22 32 | |
The meane is 22. 29. 34. |
August 1. 1631.
These seuerall Azimuths were taken vpon a piece of Ice: about 40. leagues off the Wester-shoare.
AL. ☉. | AZ. M | F. | T. AZ | F. | Var. | |
26 36 | 83 05 | N | 104. 36 | N | 21 31 | Latitude |
25 24 | 81 25 | N | 103. 06 | N | 21 41 | 50. 45. |
24 26 | 78 38 | N | 100, 42 | N | 22 04 | |
22 30 | 75 16 | N | 97 22 | N | 22 06 | |
21 31 | 73 50 | N | 95 42 | N | 21 5 | Declina. |
20 10 | 71 27 | N | 93 24 | N | 21 57 | 15. 25. |
18 42 | 68 40 | N | 90 58 | N | 22 18 | |
18 07 | 67 25 | N | 89 56 | N | 22 31 | |
The meane is 22. 00. |
August. 5 th. 1631.
These Azimuths were taken vpon a piece of Ice, and calculated by all the figures of the Canon about 40. leagues off the Wester-shoare.
AL. ☉. | AZ. M | F. | T. AZ | F. | Var. | |
23 14 | 79 12 | N | 101. 02 | N | 21 50 | |
Latitude | 22 11 | 76 40 | N | 99 12 | N | 22 32 |
58. 37. | 21 11 | 75 11 | N | 97 28 | N | 22 17 |
20 00 | 73 02 | N | 95 48 | N | 22 46 | |
18 59 | 71 24 | N | 93 47 | N | 22 23 | |
Declina. | 17 15 | 68 35 | N | 90 53 | N | 22 18 |
14. 12. | 16 42 | 67 28 | N | 90 00 | 22 32 | |
15 39 | 65 32 | N | 88 18 | N | 22 46 | |
The meane is 22. 25. 30. |
These obseruations were taken the 10 th. of November: 1631. the Lat. 52. 03. the difference may be conceiued, to grow by reason of the Sunnes low Altitude and Refraction. The others about the Summer Solstice, where difference of Meridians is auoided, and are more exact.
Alt. ☉. | AZ. M. | T. AZ. | Var. West. |
G. M. | G. M. | G. M. | G. M. |
14 25 | 42 25 | 16 11 | 16 14 |
14 00 | 45 25 | 27 30 | 17 55 |
13 15 | 47 25 | 29 54 | 17 31 |
12 18 | 48 10 | 32 33 | 15 37 |
12 03 | 49 20 | 33 16 | 16 04 |
11 41 | 51 07 | 34 15 | 16 52 |
10 57 | 53 25 | 36 04 | 17 21 |
9 42 | 55 25 | 38 38 | 16 27 |
9 15 | 57 45 | 40 00 | 17 14 |
8 50 | 58 37 | 40 52 | 17 45 |
The means is 16. 57. West. |
An Appendix touching Longitude.
LAtitude and Longitude are two primary affections of the Earth, by the helpe of these two, doth the Geographer striue to represent the parts of the Earth that they may keepe Symmetry and Harmony with the whole. Latitude then is an arch of the Meridian, comprehended betweene the Aequator and a Paralell; but Longitude is an arch of the Aequator, intercepted by the Prime Meridian and the Meridian of a Place, the difference of Longitudes being the difference of two Meridians. The measure of the former is the Meridian, the Aequator of this latter. For the exact settling of Latitudes we haue many and absolute helpes, so that the Error if any happen, ought to be imputed to the imperfect handling of the Artist. But the Longitude of a Meridian is that which hath, and still wearieth, the greatest Masters of Geography. Neuerthelesse hath not the wise Creator left Man vnfurnished of many excellent helpes to attaine his desire: For besides Eclipses, especially of the Moone, (whose leasure we must often waite, and perhaps goe without, if the Heauens be not propitious to vs) we haue the Concurse of quicke pac'd inferiour Planets, with superiour slow ones, or their Appulses with some fixed Starre of knowne place, or else some other Artifice deriued from Motions and Positions. As for the Magneticall Needle to argue a Longitude from its Variation, is altogether without ground. And though well furnisht Seamen are able by their dead Reckonings (as they tearme them) to determine the difference of Meridians somewhat neere, yet by reason of the vnknowne quantity of a Degree in a giuen measure (which is the Rule of the Ships way) Varieties of aduerse winds, Different sets of Tydes, and other inuolued incombrances, they come often wide of the mark they aime at. The best way yet knowne to the world, is that which is deduced from the Coelestiall Apparences, which being performed by Iudicious Artists, may in short time rectifie our [Page] Geographicall and Hydrogaphicall Charts hitherto in most places fouly distorted. It is my intent here, to giue an instance from two seuerall obseruations drawne from the Coelestiall Bodyes, by the Author of this discourse, in his discouery for the N. W. at the bottome of the Bay, being his wintering place, and called by the name of Charloton▪ which for Iudgement, Circumspection and Exactnes may compare with most: The first from the Eclips of the Moone; The second from the Moones Mediation of Heauen, or Her comming to the Plane of his Meridian of Charleton.
The Captaine then mindfull of the Lunar Eclips which was to happen October 29. Anno 1631. was wayting on the Moone with his Instruments, but by reason of the Interposition of the clouds, could made no Obseruation on the beginning of her Obscuration, but at her Emersion or Totall Recouery of Light, the heauens being more Serene, he tooke the Altitude of the Superior Limb of the Moone 29. gr. 11. m. The Latitude of Charlton being 52. gr. 3. min.
At that very time, my selfe with some friends found the exact time of the Moones Emersion at London in Gresham Colledge (by a Quadrant of sixe foot Radius, actually cut to each minute of the Quadrant) to be Octob. 29. 13. h. 7. m. 28 sec. or Octob. 30. d. at one of the clocke, seuen minutes, and about a halfe in the morning.
Now because the Tables of the Coelestiall Motions, lately published by that most Learned and Industrious Lansberg, doe much amuse, the world with that loftie title of Perpetuity, it shall not be amisse to enquire after the time of the Captaines Obseruation from them, that so by comparing the one with the other we may obtaine the difference of Meridians, which is the matter now sought after.
The middle motions of the Luminaries answerable to the equall time of the Emersion of the Moone, are these which follow.
Sex. | Gr. | M. | S. | ||
The middle motion of the | Sunne | 3. | 47. | 39. | 26. |
Center of the ☉ | 3 | 15 49 | 58 | ||
Apogaeū of the ☉ | 1 | 35 | 45 | 44 | |
The middle motion of the | Lōgitude of the) | 2 | 59 | 29 | 1 |
Anomaly of the) | 0 | 5 | 11 | 30 | |
Latitude of the) | 4 | 32 | 8 | 15 | |
The Prosthaphaeresis of the Aequinox— | 0 | 0 | 12 | 30 |
Being thus furnished with these middle motions wee are next to enquire for the true places of the Luminaries & their Concomitants, as their right Ascentions, the Declination, Latitude, Semidiameter, Parallax, & Refraction of the ☽, that so the true Altitude of the ☽ center, and consequently the time of the Emersion may be had at Charleton.
For the Sunnes true place.
Sex. | Gr. | M. | S. | |
The middle motion of the ☉ Center.— | 3. | 15. | 49. | 58 |
The Prosthaphaeresis of the Center add.— | 0. | 1 | 37. | 0 |
The Proportionall Scruples.— | 1. | |||
The middle motion of the ☉ Apogaeum.— | 1. | 35. | 45. | 44 |
The true motion of the Apogaeum subtr.— | 1. | 37. | 22. | 44 |
The middle motion of the ☉ is— | 3. | 47. | 39. | 26 |
The Anomaly of the ☉ orbe— | 2. | 10. | 16. | 42 |
The Prosthaphaeresis of the ☉ orbe— | 0. | 1. | 32. | 43 |
The excesse to be added— | 0. | 0. | 0. | 20 |
The absolute Prosthaph. of the ☉ orbe subtr. | 0. | 1. | 33. | 3 |
The midd. mot. of the ☉ frō the true Aequi. | 3. | 47. | 51. | 56 |
The true mot. of the ☉ from the true Aequi. | 3. | 46. | 18. | 53 |
Therefore the ☉ true place was in ♍— | 0. | 16. | 8. | 53 |
And his right Ascention— | 223. | 49. | 53 |
For the Moones true place.
The Anomaly of the ☽ Center— | 5. | 59. | 18. | 2 |
The Prosthaphaeresis of the ☽ Center— | 0. | 0. | 5. | 36 |
The proportionall Scruples— | 0. | |||
The Anomaly of the ☽ orbe— | 0. | 5. | 11. | 30 |
The Aequated Anomaly of the ☽ orbe— | 0. | 5. | 5. | 54 |
[Page]The Prosthaphaeresis of the ☽ orbe subtr.— | 0. | 0. | 24. | 4. |
The mid. mot. of the ☽ Longitude from the ☉. | 2. | 59. | 39. | 1 |
The true motion of the ☽ Longit. from the ☉. | 2. | 59. | 14. | 57 |
The mid. mot. of the ☉ from the true aequin. | 3. | 47. | 51. | 56 |
The true mot. of the ☽ from the true aequin. | 0. | 47. | 6. | 53 |
Therefore the ☽ true place was in ♉— | 0. | 17. | 6. | 53 |
For the ☽ Latitude | ||||
The middle motion of the ☽ Latitude. | 4. | 32. | 8. | 15. |
The ☽ absolute Prosthaph. of her Orb subtr. | 0. | 0. | 24. | 4. |
The ☽ true motion of Latitude. | 4. | 31. | 44. | 11. |
The ☽ Northerne Latitude was. | 0. | 0. | 9 | 5. |
And her Reductiue Scruples Subtr. | 0. | 0. | 0. | 26. |
But the ☽ true motion in her proper Orbe was | 0. | 17. | 6: | 53: |
Therefore the ☽ true place reduced to the Eclipt | ♉. | 17. | 6. | 27. |
And because the North Lat. of the ☽ was | 0: | 9: | 5: | |
Therefore will her Right ascens be. | 44: | 35: | 10 | |
And her Declination— | 17: | 7: | 49 | |
And because we haue the distance of the Moone. | ||||
From the earth in Semidiameters of the earth | 64 | 15 | ||
Therefore shall the ☽ apparent Semidiam: be— | 0. | 15. | ||
And her parallax of Altitude. | 0. | 47. | 0. | |
Now because the Altitude of the limbe of the ☽ was found by obseruation to bee— | 29: | 11: | ||
If we shall substract her Semidiameter— | 0: | 15: | ||
And the refraction— | 0: | 2: | ||
We haue the apparent Altitude of the ☽ center— | 28: | 54: | ||
To this if we adde the parallax of Altitude— | 0: | 47: | ||
We shall haue the true Altitude of the ☽ Center: | 29: | 41: |
Hauing thus the Latitude of the place, the ☽ true Altitude with her declination, by the resolution of a Sphaericall Triangle according to the 11 Probleme, lib. 2. Part. 2. of our British Trigonometry we haue the distance of the ☽ from the Meridian—63: 26:
And by comparing this Arch with the difference of the ascentions of the Luminaries, the Time of the ☽ totall recouery of her light at Charlton will be 7. hou. 49. min. 28. sec. [Page] Which subtr. from the time of the Emersion at London. 13 hou. 7. min. 28. sec.
The difference of Meridians in respect of time will be 5: h. 18: m. o. So that Charlton is remooued from London Westwards, 79. gr. 30. m.
This may likewise be confirmed by a second different obseruation made at the instant of the Moones Culmination or Mediation of Heauen, at which time the Altitude of the brightest Starre in the Asterisme of the Northerne Crowne, (being of the second Magnitude) was found to be 33. gr. 27. m. Easterly. Ann. 1632. Iune 23.
It may be Problematically deliuered after this manner. Hauing the Latitude of a Place, with the Altitude of a knowne fixed Starre at the moment of the ☽ culmination, to finde the Longitude.
This fixed Starre is of knowne longitude and latitude, therfore was his Declination 27: 59: and right ascension 229. 46. Now by the resolution of a Sphaericall Triangle of 3. knowne sides we haue the distance of this Star from the Meridian, and by consequence the right ascension of the ☽, whence we conclude her Culmination to be with the 28: 10: m. of ♑. but the Moones true place was much lesse. Here note that the scrupulosity of time is vnknowne, and therefore we cannot argue the ☽ true place from thence (though I grant it might be euinced) for that were to begge the Question, and to know that first, which we looke after.
In the next place we are to inquire with what point of the Ecliptique the ☽ did culminate with vs here at London, that so from the difference of her places, of the like affection, we may deduce the difference of Meridians.
Obseruation on the ☽ Culmination here at London wee made none, therefore must we haue recourse to the aforesaid Tables of Lansberg, and from thence calculate the same. Now because the ☽ was not farre remooued from the ☉ opposite point. It will not be amisse to enquire first the ☽ place at midnight.
Sex. | Gr. | M. | S. | |
The ☉ opposite place at midnight in ♑ | 0 | 11. | 18. | 15. |
The ☽ true place at midnight reduced to the | ||||
Ecliptique was in ♑— | 0. | 23. | 33. | 18. |
[Page]The South Latitude of the Moone was — | 0. | 4. | 56. | 38 |
Therefore the difference of Ascensions will be — | 14. | 6. | 0 | |
The Diurnall motion of the Moone — | 14. | 24 | 0 | |
Therefore the Moones proper motion answerable to the difference of Ascensions is — | 0. | 33. | 50 | |
Which added to the Moones true place at midnight | 23. | 33. | 18 | |
Giues vs the Moones true place reduced to the Ecliptique at her Culmination at London — | 24. | 7. | 8 |
Now because the ☽ Southern Latitude was 4. 56. 38, the Arch therefore of the Ecliptique comprehended betweene the Moones true place and the culminating point of the Eclipt. will Trigonometrically be found to be 54: m. 38. s. which added to the ☽ true place before found giues vs the culminating point of the Eclipti. 25. gr. 1. m. 46. s. which is lesse then that found at Charleton: the difference being 3. 8. 24. therfore is the place of Obseruation Westerly of London. Hauing therefore the ☽ Diurnall motion and the difference of the culminating points we conclude the Meridian of Charlton to be distant frō this of Lōdon 5. h. 14. m. of time or 78. 30. of the Equator.
The difference betweene that of the Eclipse, and this latter obseruation is only 4. minutes of time or one degree, a difference easily pardoned, especially if wee shall compare the same with some other places, yea euen such as border neerely on each other. To giue an instance on 2 eminent places which lye in the heart of Europe, Rome & Norenberg: Their difference of Longitude Regiomontanus makes 36. Werner 32. Appian 34. Maestlin and Origan 33. Stofler 18. Maginus 26. Schoner 12. Mercator and Hondius as much. Stadius 13. Iansonius 10. Longomontaus 16. Lausberg: 10. Kepler by 2. obseruations on 2 Lunar Eclipses, but 4 minutes of time.
This varietie among these great Artists, will I hope pardon vs this difference of 4. m. and be a means to incourage our English Sea-men and others, to make such or the like obseruations in forraine parts as the heauens shall be offred vnto them.
To the venerable Artists and younger Students in Diuinity, in the famous Vniuersity of CAMBRIDGE.
YOV nobly-witted, and ingenuously-studied Academians: whose excellency in all kinds of learning, all forraigne Vniuersities doe admire, and none atteine vnto. I here present you a Voyage to Cholcos, though not the Golden-fleece with it: the Searche, I meane, but not the finding; of that so much talkt of, so often sought for, North-West Passage, and neerer way into the South-Sea. That, wherein so much Time and Treasure haue beene expended, so many braue Spirits employed, and yet none discouered. Perchance, there is no such Passage to be found: and that the Spaniards, by the gullery of their false Sea-Cards, and the fable of an old Greeke Pilote; haue but diuerted our English and Dutch Sea-men, from their golden Indyes. This plot of theirs hath taken, for these many yeeres: and it appeares to bee but a plot, for that themselues neuer make vse of this Passage. For mine owne part, I suppose that the Philosophers stone is in the North-West Passage. My argument for it is, For that theres so much Philosophy in the way to it.
[Page] So much, and such variety: such variety, and that so various, (I thinke) from what is receiued in the Schooles: that it were well worth the disquisition of an Vniuersity, (and I wish you the first honour of it) either to find out, how these Obseruations may bee reduced to Aristotles Philosophy: or whether they need any other enquiry, and ought to be examined by some other Rules, then Aristotle hath yet light vpon. This is my purpose of inscribing it vnto you. Of this one thing am I confident: that you are all so rationall, and ingenuous, as to preferre Truth, before Authority: Amicus Plato, amicus Aristoteles, but magis amica veritas. Your Sciences, then, being Liberall; your Studies, I know, haue so farre passed into your maners, that your minds are so too, and that such as haue already profited beyond the credulity required in a yong learner, and are themselues promoted to be Masters of the Arts; though they still reuerence their old Greeke Tutor, yet they will not suffer that of Pythagoras Schoole, so to domineere in Aristotles, as to let an Ipse dixit, goe away with it: much lesse allow it the authority of a Mayors hammer, with one knocke to silence all arguments.
Vpon this confidence, I, with all due respects, here preferre two Propositions vnto your discussing. The first this, Whether those Rules of Aristotles Philosophy be to be allowed so Vniuersall, that they hold all the world ouer. The second this, Whether they ought to be so magisteriall, as to prescribe against all other examinations. The first of these, I shall but problematically propound vnto you: but in the second, I hope a man of my cloathing, may bee allowed the freedome of being something more earnest.
[Page] But that I may not come with preiudice to the making of these motions, or bee thought, vpon some ignorance or ambition, to speake against the incomparable Aristotle; I shall desire all my fellow Academians to allow me so much discretion, as to know, That he that shall in your hearings, oppose your Aristotle; does like the Ship here spoken of, runne against a Rocke, endanger his owne bulge, and the stauing of his vessell. No, I so farre honour the old Aristotle, that I well allow him to bee Master and Moderator of the Schooles: and that there is the same respect due to him in the Schooles, which, by Reason and long Custome, is due to one of the Kings Ships in the Narrow Seas; That in acknowledgement of a Soueraignty, euery other name ought to strike sayle to him. Aristotle (it must be confest) hath made all learning beholding to him: no man hath learned to confute him, but by him; and vnlesse hee hath plowed with his heyfer. He had the most incomparable wit, and was the most Logicall and demonstratiue deliuerer of himselfe, of all the Sonnes of nature: One, who best of all deserued to be cald Her Principall Secretary: one, who not onely adornes a Library, but makes it: Qui habet Aristotelem, habet Bibliothecam, is truer of him, then of the Great Comparer. This is my opinion of him; and I wish him more studyed.
Tis not, 1. therefore, the name, or the authority of the great Aristotle, that my Propositions meddle withall: but whether his obseruations gathered out of this part of the world alone, could, like a royall Passe or a Commission, carry a man all the world ouer?
[Page] It must be confest, That in respect of the Equinoctiall and the Latitude that Aristotle liued in, hee was but a Northern man: and twas his owne Rule, that Nihil agit extra Sphaeram actiuitatis suae. So then, it would bee put to voyces to consider, whether he that knew but these Northerne parts, and the Mediterranean Sea; could possibly make such collections, by what was here to be learned, as should bee vnfaileable in the Southern Haemisphere and the two Indyes? Plainely, those that are conuersant in the nauigations and bookes of voyages into those parts; haue found so many contrarieties to obserue; that it were rather tedious, then difficult, to fill vp a Notebooke with them.
The Ancients, wee know (as if they had measured the world by the Yeard-wand) restrained the limits of temperature, and habitation, by the fiue Zones: without consideration of any interloping or concurring causes, which experience hath now found out, to haue quite altered their obseruation. I adde, that a good leisure and diligence might obserue, how in the contrary part of the world, there be found cleane contrary Causes and Effects, vnto those in this part of the world. The South-wind there, brings cold and Winter: and the North, is the rainy wind. How will the Thunder and the Wind, be made agree with Aristotles definition of a Meteore? In some places of the Mountaines Andes by Peru, it thunders euer. The East-Indyes haue their Monsons and their steady winds, constant for sixe moneths together: and who shall assigne their causes? Then the doctrine of the Tydes, nothing so vncertaine: which ebbe and flow in some places, different; and in others contrary, [Page] to the Moone and her motions. This (as I remember) is Aristotles definition of a Meteore, Aristoteles, 1. Meteor 1. That it is, An imperfect mixt body, generated out of an infirme and inconstant concretion of the Elements; which therefore cannot be durable. Now the Monson, is both constant in his continuance this yeere, and in his returne next yeere; most constantly keeping his seasons halfe yeere one way, and halfe yeere another way, for all ages: nothing more constantly or durably; and therefore nothing like Aristotles Meteore. And so for the Thunder vpon the Andes: it is first perpetuall; secondly, not caused by a dry exhalation, (as Aristotle wills) but hanging ouer such hils as are couered with snow and a perpetuall winter. Witnesse the Thunder on the Alpes also: yea and that in the middle of the Sea, 500. leagues from shoare, or any thing that is dry. yea, it frequently both Snowes and Thunders vpon the Andes, at one instant: and in dry places that are hard by, scarce euer Thundering.
But not to passe the Line for it; You see in this little Booke, how Charlton Iland, which is no more Northerly then your Cambridge; is yet so vnsufferably cold, that it is not habitable: and that there encounter so many different, (at least so seeming) occurrences of nature, as were well worth the disquisition of a Philosopher. I could, (in my smal reading) instance in many many other particulars: which I had rather should be found out by some industrious searchers after Nature, in the Moderne Relations of our Discoverers, then in this my short Proposition. Tis not to be doubted, but that the carefull reading of our Books of Voyages, would more elucidate the History of Nature, and more conduce to the improuement of [Page] Philosophy, then any thing that hath beene lately thought upon. These Navigations haue in part fulfilled that of the Prophet, Dan. 12. 4. Many shall passe to and fro, and knowledge shall be encreased. This, I suppose, might be obserued from this study, That the great and infinite Creator hath so disposed and varied euery thing, that it is impossible for mans reason and obseruation to conclude him: and therefore, though vulgar and receiued Philosophie, may giue a man a generall hint, all the world ouer; yet no Vniuersall and vnfayling certainty.
This brings mee to my Second Proposition, 2. That seeing God will not haue his works, (no more then his Kingdome) to come by obseruation; Luke 17. 20. Whether, then, ought any humane dictates to be so Magisteriall, as to prescribe against all other examination?
No humane study more conduces to the setting forth of Gods glory, then the contemplation of his great workes, in Philosophie: for though a smattering knowledge in Second Causes, warps the mind towards Atheisme; yet a higher speculation of them, brings about againe to Religion. No man, I beleeue, will thinke it fit for vs to haue a Pope in Philosophie; one, that no body shall presume to censure of: but all be bound to aduance his Decretalls, aboue the Holy Scriptures. This is the scandall that my selfe, and diuers good men take, at the vndue authority in some heates pinn'd vpon the Stagerite.
I am sorry that the Israelites dotage vpon Salomons Philosophie, Suidas, & Rabbini. should haue caused the zealous Hezekiah to call in and to suppresse those vnualuable Physicks: for feare, I suppose, lest their credit should haue as much derogated frō the authority of the Holy Scriptures; [Page] as the brazen Serpent (which he destroyed about the same time) had done from Religion. None will beleeue, that Salomons Philosophie was contrary to the Scriptures; seeing the Scripture commends Salomon for them. Twas not Hezekiahs feare, therefore, (or not onely) lest there might haue beene a competition betweene them, but a neglect of one of them: he was iealous lest the Scripture might haue any writing set vp by it, though not against it.
Can Diuines, then, be blamed for speaking, when they heare Aristotles Philosophy to be solely magnified, and the study of the Scripture Philosophy, disrespected? Or that when tis confest, That such a thing is true in Diuinity, and yet the Moderating of the point determine for Philosophie? Nay, to heare it cald absurd and ridiculous, to haue Scripture vrg'd at all, in point of Philosophy? No doubt there is, But whatsoeuer is false in Diuinity, is also false in Nature, how much show of truth soeuer it passes with, in Philosophy. Philosophy hath taken its turne in the Schooles: and the holy Texts by the Schoolemen, haue euen been submitted vnto Aristotles: yea, to the great corruption of Theologie, as the complaint is, hath this man been so farre aduanced, That Contra est Philosophus, & Contra est Apostolus; haue familiarly passed vp and down, for equall Oppositions: so that it hath been a measuring cast oftentimes, betwixt the Prophet and the Peripatetick: and by foule play hath the measure beene made to stand the harder at the Peripatetick, for that the Prophet hath beene enforced to comply with him by a wrested interpretation. Thus had S. Paul need giue his caveat vnto Theologie, as well as vnto Theologues, Beware lest any man spoyle you through Philosophy.
[Page] All this were to no purpose, vnlesse the Text of God were excellent in this kinde; and embellished, here and there, with most admirable Philosophy. What incomparably rare foot-steps of it, haue we in the Bookes of Genesis, Iob, and the Psalmes? How noble a Study then were it, and how worthy the leisure of some excellently learned; to bestow some time vpon it? Valesius the Physician, hath in his Sacra Philosophia done something in this kinde: who yet might haue done better, here and there, for the honour of the Scriptures. I am not so sottish to beleeue, That euery particular is to be drawn out of Scripture: tis none of my doteage, that. Or that God in Scripture did intend, euery where, the accuratenesse of Philosophy; or stand to be so curious in definitions and decisions. Nor so foolish would I be thought, as to haue all Philosophy taken in pieces, and new moulded by the Scriptures. Nor, that nothing should be determined on, till a Text confirmed it. But this, perchance, might profitably be thought vpon: That where the Scriptures haue any thing in this kinde, it should more reuerently be esteemed; Collections out of scattered places, (as is done out of Aristotle) made: these compared, and their Resultances obserued. This, surely, would amount to more, then is yet thought of: and, a- Gods name, let Schollers be so bold with Aristotle, as to examine him vpon good assurance, by what is Truths Touch-stone: Receiued Philosophy is a most necessary hand-maid to the Scriptures; but let her not be set aboue her Lady, nor no competition be maintained betwixt them.
Something else remaines to be thought of: That seeing the same God, who gaue Aristotle these good [Page] parts; hath, in like manner, raised vp many excellent Spirits moe: whether it were not iniurious vnto what is done, and a discouragement to what might be done; to haue the inuentions or obseruations of those excellent wits and great industries, so abasht with Aristotles authoritie; that they can haue no credit in the world, for that his Dictates haue pre-occupated all good opinion? Let it not then be thought vnequall, to examine the first cogitations of the old Philosophy, by the second thoughts of our more moderne Artists: for that the same improuement may by this meanes accrew vnto our Physicks, that hath aduanced our Geography, our Mathematicks, and our Mechanicks. And let it not be thought so insolent, to refuse Aristotles authoritie singly, where his reason is not so concluding; seeing other men haue taken the boldnesse to doe that before vs, in seuerall kinds. Some haue perfected, and others controld his Ethicks, by the Scriptures: as Scultetus, Wallaeus and some others. Iustin Martyr sir-named the Philosopher, hath purposely written Contra dogmata Aristotelis: Basson and Gassendus, (two braue men) haue newly written pointblanck against him: nor haue they taken away all liberty, from those that are to follow them.
And thus, with renewing my former protestation for mine owne respects to Aristotle, I conclude my two Propositions: which I desire may receiue a fauourable construction from all ingenuous, imcapricious Schollers. I meant them, out of good will to promote learning; to encourage and countenance future vndertakings: and in such a case, a little too much saying, may be thought not to haue exceeded an honest Rhetorication: for I would not be thought too [Page] earnest in it. The hint for all this, I tooke from this booke: which in mine owne and some better Iudgements; is (to say no more) as well done, and enriched with as sure and vsefull obseruations, as any in this kinde. I was desired by the able Author, and some other friends; to ouer-looke the written Copy of it, and to amend the English here and there; in which I did not despaire of doing something: for that, in my yonger time, I had a little acquainted my selfe with the language of the Sea. That which put me in the head to inscribe it vnto your Names (most excellently learned Academians) was, for that the place of this Wintering, was within a minute or two, of the heighth of our Cambridge. Which my prayer to God is, that your Studies may make famous.