THE HISTORY OF ITALY, BEING An exact Description of all the Cities, Towns, Castles, and Villages of
ITALY, with the most remarkable particulars in each of them.
The first PART.
Wherein is conteined the Journeys, or Voyages, from Trent to Venice, from Venice to Milan, from Milan to Rome.
The way from Trent to Venice.
TRento, or Trent, is a City of the Province of Marca Trivigiana, or Marquisate of Treves, and is seated in a Valley on the confines of the said Province. It hath Walls round it, which are about the compass of a mile, and are washed by the River Ladice towards the North; Large and Fair Streets, paved with Flint-stones, and stately Houses. Its Churches are very beautiful, though not large. There is one most sumptuous, and Royal Palace, which was lately restored by Bernardo Clessio, Bishop of the said City. Towards the East part thereof enters a little River, upon which are raised many edifices, to work Silks in, as also to grind Corn; and from the said little River are brought many Rivolets, which run along the Streets, and into the Houses of the Citizens. Without the Gate called [Page 2] Saint Lorenzo, upon the Ladice, there is a magnificent Bridge, of one hundred forty & six paces in length (but of Wood) which conjoyns the Ladice with the other little River. The surrounding Mountains by, being continually covered with Snow, precipitous, and so high that the heads thereof seem to touch the heavens, are rendred inaccessable. Between these Mountains, are two wayes, the one goes towards the North, the other towards Verona. It hath but little Champaign, or Fields, but those are pleasant and Rich, planted with Vines, and fruitful Trees, amidst which passeth the Ladice. In this place, may be seen the Castle, and Fort, called Pelen, appertaining to the most Noble Family of the Troppi. The Citizens speak good Dutch, and not ill Italian. Trent is now reduced under the power of Germans, and is a refuge for all Italians, when any disgrace happens to them in their own Countrey. They gather but little Corn, but, in lieu thereof, they have good quantity of delicious Wines, both White, and Red. In the Summer, the Air is good, but the Sun beats upon it most vehemently on those dayes it remaineth in the sign Leo; And in the Winter, 'tis so very cold, by reason of the Frosts and Snow, that there is no living; their Stoves are not sufficient to provide against it, because the cold is so fierce, that it turneth the Rain into Snow, before it can fall to the Earth; and that which occasions the greatest wonder here, is, that in that time their Wells, or deepest Pits, are void, and empty of Water. In stead of Mules, Asses, and Horses of Burthen, they serve themselves of their Oxen, and Cows, with Charrets so easie to carry goods, that they run up by the Mountains, as if it were in a Plain; though 'tis very true, that the wayes are so well helped by the Cliffs, or Craggs, that the Beasts may go any where with little labour.
This City was greatly illustrated, and enriched certain years past, by the General Council held here: for that there met then five President Cardinals; Two Legats of the Council, for his Holiness, Pius the fourth, Chief Bishop, or Pope of Rome, being Cardinals also, that is to say, Cardinal Loreno, and Cardinal Madruccio; Three Patriarchs, Thirty two Arch-bishops, Two hundred and thirty Bishops, Seven Abbots, Seven Generals of Religion, One hundred forty and six Doctors of Divinity, between Seculars, and Regulars; The Embassadour of Ferdinand the Emperour, as well in the name of the Empire, as of the Kingdoms of Hungary, and Bohemia; as also the Embassadours of the King of France, of the King of Spain, of the King of Poland, and of Portugal, of the Dukes of Bavaria, of Savoy, of Venice, of Florence, and of the other Catholique Princes.
The Council was held in the Church of Saint Mary, where there is a very fair Organ. In the Church of Saint Peter are the Ashes of the blessed Simeon, Martyred by the wicked Jewes. In the Church of the Fryers Heremitans lies buried Cardinal Seripando▪ who was Legate of the Council, a man famous for Holiness, and Doctrine. The Cannons are all illustrious persons, and have authority to choose the Bishop, Lord of the City, and Prince of the Empire, which dignity, three Cardinals of the most Noble Family of the Madrucci, have enjoyed successively, of which one named Altiprando lives at present, a religious Person, and a lover of Learned men.
BASSANO.
FRom Trento the way lies to Bassano, travelling towards the East by the Valley of Sugana, called by the Antients Euganea, because a People of that name dwelt there; This Plain is eighteen miles in length, and two only in bredth, whence you may go to Venice, but 'tis too long a journey. Five Miles forth of Trent, is situated the rich, and populous Countrey of Perzene.
At the Head of the Valley, near Primolano, are the confines between the Venetians, and Germans. Upon the high Mountain of Primolano is there built a most strong Bulwark of the Venetians called Strada, where a few Souldiers can repel the Dutch, when ever they offer by violence, or force, to advance forwards. At twelve miles distance from thence towards the East, among the Alps, is the City of Feltre, by the which way at the right-hand-shore of the River Brent, three miles distance from Scala, is seated Cavolo, a Fort of the Germans, inexpugnable, in respect that 'tis founded upon a great Rock directly hanging over the high-way, with a Fountain of living water in it, whereto neither Man, nor Goods can be mounted from the Earth, unless fastned to a Rope, and that wound up upon a wheel, from which (because 'tis a very narrow way underneath, between the Mountain and the River) with small labour, may their enemies be slain with Stones cast on them, as they march along. Thence five miles distant, is the River Cisimone (wch disembogues it self into the Brenta) where the Dutch and Feltrini, daily load great quantities of Timber and Wood, as well for the use of Building, as for firing, which they afterwards transport to Bassano, to Padoua, and to Venice. Seven miles distant from Bassano, on the Right-hand-shore of the Brent, lies the Countrey of Valstagna, placed at the foot of the Mountains, and famous for the Sawes there made: thence distant three miles, lies the Countrey of Campese, where in the Church of the Fryers of Saint Benedict lies buried he that wrote la Macharonea.
Bassano lies at the foot of this streight Valley, and is washed towards the West by the Brent, called antiently Brenta, or Brentesia, the which hath its Sourse, or head, beyond the Alps of Trent twelve miles, near Levego. Over the Brent, a little forth of the Gate of Bassano, is built a great Bridge of Wood, which conjoyns both the Rivers. Between the Alps, and this Castle, there are some Hills, which produce most abundantly all things requisite, as well for necessary living, as delicacy, but most particularly, they abound with Olives, and precious Wines. The River Brenta runs thorow the Territory of Vicenza, passeth by the City of Padoua, and in the end dischargeth it self, by the Fenny, or Moorish grounds, into the Sea. In this River, they take excellent Fish, as Trouts, Pollard, or Chieven, Eyles, Pyke, Tench, Lampreys, Barbel, and Crabfish. In no place are the men more ingenuous in Merchandize than in this: particularly in weaving of Cloth, in turning most neatly in Ivory, and in Carving in NutTrees. There is never a year, that they dress less than fifteen thousand pound weight of Silk, and notwithstanding that, that which is made in China is esteemed better than is made in any other part of [Page 4] the world, nevertheless 'tis known, that this of Bassano is more subtile or thin, and more light. Hence the Family of the Carrareci drew their Original, and Eccellino the Tyrant, as also Lazaro, surnamed Bassano, a person not meanly learned, nor less acquainted in the Greek tongue than in the Latine: he lived a long time in Bologna, with great satisfaction to the learned, afterwards he rendred himself at Padoua, to the end that he might illuminate those who were studious of good Letters. At present Giacomo dal Ponte, an excellent Lymner, greatly illustrates this Country, together with four of his Sons, called vulgarly, the Bassani. Bassano hath under it twelve Towns, which with it self contein to the number of twelve thousand Souls.
MAROSTICA.
AT three miles distance from Bassano towards the West, is seated a strong place, named Marostica, a Castle built by the Lords of Scala, near the Mountain, and fortified with Walls, and two Sconce [...]. Antiently this Castle stood in the neighbouring Mountain, which looks towards the East, where, at this time are to be seen the Foundation [...]. Here the Air is most perfect, and the Countrey as pleasant, and produceth excellent fruits, in great abundance, but it most excels in Cherries of all sorts, which are so infinitely pleasant, and so well [...]elished, that therefore in many places they are called Marosticane. There are many Fountains of clear Water; and thence about two miles, is a Lake called Piola, whose waters abate, and rise, in the same manner as they in the Golf of Venice, with great admiration to the beholders. The Inhabitants of this Castle are extreme contentious, whereupon an Elegant Poet wrote thus,
Within this Castle, are many Churches, among which is that of Saint Bastiano, where the Fryers of Saint Francis dwell, wherein lies the Body of the blessed Lorenzuolo the Child, Martyred by the wicked Jews, who antiently there inhabited. Francesco of the Family of the [...]reschi, hath much illustrated this Castle, who publickly Read the Civil Law in Padoua, and likewise Angelo Mateaccio, who hath composed some Books of the Laws. At this present, adds no small Fame to this his Countrey, Prospero Alpino, the most excellent Physician, publique Reader of the first matter of Simples, in the Academy of Padoua, who hath written De plantis AEgypti, De Opobalsamo, and De Praesagienda vit [...], & morte AEgrotantium, lately published, And is now employed (besides his publick Reading) in composing, and ripening some other noble Work for publick view. Thorow the middle of this Castle, runs the little River called Rozza, whence about a mile passeth the Sillano, so called, because in Antient Language, it signified a Stream of running water. 'Tis believed, that the Antient Romans much frequented this Place, for that the Inhabitants to this day retain certain Latine words, though something corrupted. Before [...] [Page 5] [Page 5] the Church of Saint Floriano, stand two Marble Stones of great antiquity, upon the one whereof is written thus, ‘TI Claudio Caes. M. Salonius ⸫⸫ es Martina Chara Conjux quae Venit de Gallia per mansiones L. Vi commemoraret memoriam Mariti sui Bene quiescas duleissime mi Marite.’
TREVISO.
THe Antient City of Treviso, is situated on the East of, and at the distance from Bassano twenty five miles. This City was founded by Osaride, the third King of the Gre [...]ans, who being adopted Son of Dionisius (therefore conceded unto him AEgypt) and Reigned in Italy ten years: And because after his death, there appeared to the AEgyptians an Ox, they supposing it to be their King Osiris, worsnipped it as a God, and called it Ap [...], which in their language signifies an Ox, for which reason in many places of Treviso, is found an Ox painted with this Motto: Memor: in memorial of their first founders. Others say that Treviso was built by the Companions of Antenor; Others by the Trojans, who went from Pastagonia; but whosoever it was built it, imports not much, since 'tis most certain, 'tis a City of great Antiquiry. They oftentimes came to Warlike disputes with the Padouans, as also with the [...] [...]or maintenance of their consi [...]es, and although through their vigilancy, and victory over the power of their Enemies, they had much enlarged their T [...] ritories, almost over the whole Champain, yet to secure themselves the better, they erected several Towers, whence they might discover their Enemies, obstruct them from too near approaches, and as necessitated therein, make their own retreat secure: and for this reason, was it along time called the City of Towers, [...]earing for its Aims three Black Towers in a white Field. This City either for that it was the most noble of all the other, or for that it became first under their Dominion, the Longobardi made the seat of their Marquesate, Marca signifying in their language, Confines: whence all this Province is called by the name of Marca; Wherein antiently were six principal Cities, (at present but four) with many other Cities, and great Castles. Its Territory is in length from East to West forty miles, and from North to South, fifty miles. It was subjected to the Hunnes, to the Longobards, Then to the Hungarians, afterwards to the People of Scal [...], after them to the Carraresians, and lastly in the year of our Lord, One thousand three hundred eighty eight, it was reduced under the Dominion of the Venetians, to whom from that time to this day, they have maintained constant Faith and Obedience. This City was converted to the Christian Faith, by the Preaching of Saint Prosdocimo, Disciple of Saint Peter, from whence [Page 6] they took, a white Crosse in a Red Field for their Aims, in liew o [...] their Black Towers. About Treviso runs the River Sile, with many other Rivolets, which incorporate with it, and towards the East, it hath the great River of Piave, wherein they take the largest Crabfish. The Countrey abounds in all things, but principally it breeds the Fatrest Calves. It conteins many sumptuous Pallaces, and not a few Noble Families. At eight miles distance from this City, stands Altino, which was founded by Antenor, but alterwards layed wast by Attila; between Treviso, and Padoua presents it self the Rich and Civil Castle of Noale. Upon the Mountains towards the North, [...]ood the noble Castle of Asolo, heretofore a Colony of the Romans as [...] saith, where with great delight, dwelt the Queen of Ciprus, having four miles off Asolo, built a most beautiful [...] as pleas [...]t a Plain, with Gardens, Fountains, Fish-ponds, and all other recreations. Eloigned from thence ten miles stands Castel I ranco, a famous 1199. Castle, which was built by the Trivisani, in the year of our Lord, One thousand one hundred ninety nine. After which towards the East, between the Rivers Piave, and Livenza shewes it self Conegliano, part whereof stands erected upon the Hill, and part upon the Plain, which is replenished with beautiful structures, and a numerous People; and enjoyes an Air so temperate, that it acquired the name among the Germans of Cunicla, which is as much as to say, a Residence for a King. This was the first place, that the Venetians possessed upon the firm Land. Adjacent hereto stand Colalto, Narvisa, and the Castle of Saint Salvadore, to the most Noble Family of the Collalti appertaining. A little further lies Oderto, whereto in the time of the Romans, the Adriatique Sea rise, which encouraged the Oderzesians to set a Fleet to Sea. Near thereunto [...]es, la Motta, the Countrey of Girolamo Alexandro created Cardinal, by his Holiness Paul the third Bishop of Rome, for his most excellent Doctrine; being no less learned in the Greek, and Hebrew Tongues than in the Latine. Travelling from Treviso, over a large and [...] High-way, at ten miles distance, is met the Castle of Mestre, and [...]wo miles off that Margherá, where taking Boat, after rowing the space of five miles, you arrive at Venice.
VENETIA, la Ricca, or VENICE the Rich.
HAving attained Le Lagune, or the (MOORES, or SHOLES) Sholes. now the Streets of Venice, you behold many proud Pallaces, built of Marble, adorned with Columbes, Statues, and Pictures of great value, erected by those Noble Senatours, with inestimable Expence, and Artifice; among which is Seated the Pallace of the Grimani, imbellished with Statues, Figures, Pourtraicts, high and great Colossuses, and Vaults; some of Marble, and others of [...], very artificially Carved, and Engraven, being brought hither from Greece, and the Ruines of Aquileia. In the open Gallery, whereof are divers Marble Stones, with excellent Inscriptions, amongst the which [Page 7] we will hereunder set down some, which are engraven upon [...] Altars dedicated in honour of Beleno, who was held in [...] great veneration by the Inhabitants of Aquileia as the [...] rodian, and Giulio Cap [...]olino do averr and justifie; The Titles [...] which Inscriptions, I believe will be very welcome and [...] the Lovers of Antiquity.
Upon one four squared Altar, is inscribed. ‘Beleno. Mansuetus. Verus. L [...]ur: Lau: Et Vibiana Jantula V. S.’
Upon another. ‘Apollini Beleno. Aug. In honorem. C. Petti. C. C. F. Pal. Fhiltati. Eq. P. Praef. AEd. Pot. Praef. Et. Patron. Collegiorum. Fabr. [...]t Cent. Diocles Lib. Donum. Dedit. L. D. D. D. D.’
Upon another. ‘Belino. Aug. Sacrum. Voto suscepto. Pro. Aquillio C. F. Pomp Vatente IIII. V. I. D. Design. Phoebus Lib. V. S. L. M.’
Upon another. ‘Beleno. Aug. Sacr. L. Cornelius L. Fil. Vell. Secundinus Aquil. Evoc. Aug. N. Quod. In. Urb. Donum. [...]ou. Aquil. Perlatum. Libens [...]osuit. L. D. D. D.’
Upon another. ‘Beleno. Aug. In. Memor. Julior. Marcell. Et. Marcellae. Et In Honorem Juliarum, Charites. [...]t Marcellae. Filiar. Et. Licin. Macron. Iunior Nepotis. C. Iul. Agathopos VI. Vir. Aquil. L. D. D. D.’
Upon another. ‘Beleno Sex Graesernius Faustus VI. Vir. V. S. L. M.’
Upon another ‘Eonti. B.’
Upon another. ‘VI. Divinae Sacrum C. Verius. C. F. Gavolus.’
[Page 8]The next object worth a view, is the Royal and Proud Pallace of the Duke of Venice, which was first begun to be erected by Ange [...]o Participatio, in the year of our Lord, Eight hundred and nine, since when though six times burnt either in part, or in all it rise again▪ and recovered much more beauty and lustre▪ Its Form, is not altogether square, the length somewhat exceeding the Bredth. Towards the North of it, stands the Church of Saint Marco, towards the East, the Grand Canale, or Channell, towards the South the Sea Coast, and towards the West, the Piazza, or broad Place of Venice. From the principal Gate of this Pallace, to that Coign which st [...]nds next the Bridge, called Paglia, or (Straw Bridge) towards the South: It hath an Arcade of 36. Arches, every one wherof are ten feet large, w ch space comprehending thirty three Pillars, ass [...]rds in length three hundred foot, which Collumns have no B [...]ses, but excellent HEADS. The two Frontispieces thereof, appear Pargetted with White and Red Marble, in the midst whereof are little Ascents or Hills, whereon are set thirty seven Collumnes, made in the Form of Pyramids, with seventy two Arches; The Facade or Frontispiece backwards was lately beautified with Istrian Stone, and is contignous towards the North, with the Church of Saint Marco. The Roofs of this Pallace were heretofore covered with Lead, but the fi [...]e that happened in the year, 1574. caused it to be covered instead of lead, with Sl [...]t of a certain Mettle. Every Front hath one Gate, The principal which is conjoyned with the Church, (of a Piramide Figure) looks towards the Piazza, or broad Place, just before which stands the winged Lion, and the Duke Foscaro, Carved in White Marble. Next within on the right hand, is found a spatious Court, wherein are two Wells of sweet Water, whose mouthes are made with Brass, garnished with Spouts, and other Curiosities. At the end of this Court, is the Gate which answers to the Sea. Then having ascended the close Stairs called Foscara, on the left hand, you may go round the Pallace upon the Tarrace. The two Fronts backwards, the one whereof lo [...]ks towards the Sea, the other towards t [...]e Piazza, parallell them that are forwards, except that they have neither Arches, nor Collumnes below. The Front towards the East on the even ground, hath thirty six Arches, and as many Pillars of Istrian Stone, over the which, there is an open Gallery of fifty four Arches, and fifty five Col [...]umnes. On the Top is drawn a Wall of Istrian Stone, adorned with beautiful Cornishes. Just against the Principall Gate, stands the large Stayer-case of the Pallace towards the North, which leads directly to the Lodging of the Prince, at the foot of this Stayer-case st [...]nds two Colossuses, the one of Marse, the other of Neptune, Upon the [...]op thereof likewise, just opposite to them, stands two most excellent Statues, the one of Adam, the other of Fve. The Front below towards the Canale, or Channel▪ hath two Stayer-cases, by the which, they ascend to that most Royal Corridor, or open Gallery, wherein stand many Tribunals, or Courts of Justice. Opposite to the Chief Stayer-case, is a Memorial of Henry the third King of [...], engraven in Marble with Letters of Gold. From the South East, they ascend that most splendid Stayer-case, which upon the left hand leads to the Chamber of the Prince; and on the right hand to the Colledge. Where the Eye is wholly taken up with [Page 9] beholding the most sumptuous Vaulted, or Arched Roof, or Seeling, Richly garnished with Gold.
This College stands towards the East, over the Chamber of the Prince, whose vaulted Roof (as at Venice they call it) is partly guilt, partly Carved with great Artifice, partly Painted, and wrought with Histories, even to Admiration; At the upper end of this Hall, is exalted the Imperial Throne of the Duke, and the Images of Venice, figured by a Queen, who disposeth the Crown upon his Head. Here the Duke with the Senatours transact the affairs of State, and give Audience to Embassadours, as well such as have recourse to them from their own Territories, and Cities, as of Foreign Princes. Out of which leads a door into another great Hall, wherein are figured all the Provinces, which the Venetians possess upon the firm Land, where also are erected eleven most excellent Statues of Emperours. Issuing forth of these Places, and walking towards the Sea, you meet the dreadful Tribunals of the Counsel of Tenne, where every Place gloriously shines with Gold and costliness.
A little more forwards is the spacious Hall, or Senate House of the Great Counsel, where they dispose the publique Offices, and Ballott the Magistrates; which Counsel orders it self in this manner. First the Duke royally clad, sits on a Throne, raised a good higth from the Ground. On his Right Hand, he hath three Counsellors near him, accompanyed by one of the Chief of the Magistrates of forty, for Criminal Offences: Just opposite to the Prince at the other End of the Great Hall, sits one of the Chief of the Illustrious Counsel of the Tenne. A little from whence seats himself one of the Advocates of Comminalty. In the Angles, or Corners of the Great Hall, stands the Old and New Auditors. In the middle are the Censors. The rest of the Nobles of Venice sit promiscuously in other Seats less raised from the plain ground of the great Hall. Into which Counsel cannot be admitted any that is not Noble, and who is not above the age of twenty five years. Afterwards the Grand Chancellour (having first recommended to every One their duty, to elect a Person fit for that Magistracy) names the first Competitor. Then certain litle Lads, go up and down the Hall with double Boxes, the one wherof is white, the other green; The White forwards, the Green more inward gathering the Balls, which Balls are small, and made of Cloth, that by the sound of the fall into the Box, may not be judged into which 'tis cast, and before he casts in, the suffrage giver, must shew that he hath but one Ball, and also tell the name of that Gentleman who stands for those that perhaps have not well heard who 'twas, do it (many times) over again; He that would exclude the Stander casts the Balls into the Green Box, and he that would have him chosen casts them into the White Box, which are made in such a Form that none can discern into which of the Boxes they put their Balls, The Procurators of Saint Mark, never enter into this Great Counsel, Except at the Election of the Duke) but stand under the Lodge with the Master & Officers of the Arsenal, while that great Counsel is gathered together for its Guard, dividing among themselves those dayes, whereon they ought to have this Charge. But of these things for further satisfaction we referr the Reader to such, who treat of them at large, herein intending only to glance briefly at the most remarkable things.
[Page 10]This great Hall, is seventy three foot broad, & one hundred & fifty foot long, and was begun in the year, One thousand three hundred & nine. On its walls were drawn by the most excellent Painters of that Age, the victories of this Commonwealth, Its Princes, with many other famous Men of Italy, which being spoyled by the smoak of that Fire, which happened in the year, 1577. in liew thereof, was Painted the History of Alexander the third chief Bishop of Rome, and Frederick the Emperour, with the subjection of Constantinople, to the Venetian Republique. The Floors are wonderful neat: Towards the East, is seated the Throne of the Prince, over which is a Paradise Painted by the hand of Tintoretto (which was formerly Painted by Guariento) and fils up all that Front. In the Front over against that, within a square of Marble, is an Image of the Holy Virgin, holding in her Arms, her little Infant, compassed about by four Angels. The Windows of this Hall, look some into the Court, and others into the Sea. Near hereunto is the Magazine of the Pallace, which is never opened, but to Foreign Princes, wherein is provision of Arms, for fifteen hundred Gentlemen, more or less, and 'tis divided into four spatious Portals, with the Doors thereof of Cipres Wood, which give a most sweet savour. On the other side of the Hall of the Great Counsel is beheld the Hall of the Inquisitors, with many and divers Pictures, amongst which is a Judgement, drawn by the hand of Tintoretto.
Thence descending by the Foscaran Stayers, you enter the Dukes Chappel being the Cathedral Church of S. Mark, w ch is built with the fairest and finest Marble with great skill, and no less expence, whose Pavement is composed all of little pieces of Porphiry, and Serpentine, and other pretious Stones after the Mosaick manner, with divers Figures. Among others, there are some Figures Effigiated by Commission of Gionachino Abbat of Santo Fiore (as is the common Fame) by which is presaged and demonstrated the great ruine which will fall upon the People of Italy, with other strange misfortunes: Where you beheld two Cocks, very boldly to carry away a Fox (wich signifies (as some will have it) that two French Kings should carry away, and force Lodovico Sforza out of the Seigniory of Milan. And also some Lyons Large and Fat appear as put in the Water, and some others set upon the shore very lean. Upon the Walls of the finest Marble, on the left hand, are two Tables of white Marble, somewhat weaved with black, which at their joyning, represent a Man, so perfectly figured, that 'tis very wonderful to consider it. Whereof Albertus Magnus in a work called Meteora (as of a great rarity) makes mention. There are in this sumptuous Temple (reckoned amongst the chief of Europe, (though not so much for its vastness, as the design and pretious materials) thirty six Collumnes of the finest Marble, which are large two feet Diamiter. The Roof of it is divided into five Cupoloes covered with Lead. From the plain of this Place, to the very Top of the Temple, are the Fronts wrought up in Mosaicke work, with Figures in a Field of Gold, and certain little Heads of Pillars, and Juttings out, or Eeves of Marble, upon which are set certain Images carved in Marble so perfectly, that they seem alive. There are also above this place on that part, which lies over the great Gate (whereof this Part hath five made of Brass) [Page 11] four Horses very Antique of Brass guilt, of an exact Proportion, and extremely beautiful, which the Romans caused to be cast, to put them in the Triumfal Arch of Nero, when he Triumphed over the Parthians, and they being afterwards transported by Constantine to Constantinople; from thence (the Venetians being thereof become Lords) transported them to Venice, setting them upon the Temple of Saint Mark. In the Porch of the said Church, is seen a red square Marble Stone, upon which Alexander the third set his Foot upon the neck of Frederick the Emperour, whereon for that reason, are engraven these words: ‘Super Aspidem, & Basiliscum ambulabis.’
After which mounting to the Top of the Quire, by certain Steps of the finest Stones, you come to the place where the Singers stand on the Chief Feast dayes. There upon the great Alter, is the rich and fair Pixe framed of Gold and Silver, bedecked with many pretious Stones, and Perl of an infinite price, which all persons admire that behold it. This Altar is covered over by one Arch, disposed into the form of a Cross, adorned with Marble, which the Antients called Tiberiano, supported with four Pillars of excellent Marble; wherein are carved the History of the Old and New Testaments. Behind this Altar, arise four Pillars of the purest Alablaster, five foot in length, transparent as Glass, placed there for Ornament of the Sacred and Holy Body of Jesus Christ consecrated or the Eucharist. In this Church are preserved with great devotion, many Reliques: and among others the Body of the Evangelist, this Republiques Protector Saint Mark, with his Gospel written by his own hand.
On the right hand of the Temple, in the midst thereof, is a large and high Gate, wrought all of Mosaique work, on the one side wherof stands the Effigies of Saint Dominick, and on the other that of Saint Francisco, which as 'tis reported, were made by order of the above named Gionachino many years before the said Saints came into the world. Within this Gate is kept the most rich Treasure of Saint Mark so much spoken of; wherein are twelve pretious Crowns, with twelve Brest Plates, all compassed about with fine Gold, and garnished with many Stones of great value. Among divers others, with Rubies, Emeralds, Topasses, Crisolits, and other pretious Stones, and Perls of numatchable bigness; Two Unicorns Horns of a great length, with a third somewhat less. Many very large Carbuncles, Vessels of Gold, Scollops of Agat, and Jasper Stones of a good bigness. One Huge Ruby given this State, by Domenico Grimani, a most worthy Cardinal. An Emerald hower-glass heretofore presented to this most illustrious Seigniory, by Uscassano King of Persia, with many other pretious things▪ Vessels, and Censores of Gold, and Silver. There also lies the Mitre or Bonnet (as we call it) with which every new Duke is Crowned. The which is traversed all over with the finest Gold, and pollish't, in whose wreathes, are many most pretious stones; and at the very Top, a Carbuncle of inestimable valew; I might also speak of the Candle-sticks, and Challices, with other things of such imminent valew, as may create wonder in the beholders, but would take up too much time and room to describe them in this Abreviation.
[Page 12]Just opposite to this Temple, and distant from it about Eighty Paces, stands the high Steeple, which is 40. Foot square on all sides, and Two Hundred and Thirty high, with an Angel set upon the Top, which like a Weather-cock turning with the Wind to all corners where it blowes, ever hath the Face towards it. All the said Top or upper part thereof, is richly guilt, which presents it to the Eye of such as addresse to Venice, (by reason of the reflection of the hot Sun thereon) Lucidely shining at a great distance; In the foundation of this Steeple was more expended (as Sabellico declares) than in all the other structure. They ascend to the uppermost part of this Steeple, by certain little winding steps within, where a most excellent Prospect discovers it self: as first, the City of Venice, divided into six Precincts, consisting of many little Islands, whose Bankes are conjoyned with Bridges, the Streets, the open Places, the Churches, the Monasteries, and other sumptuous structures; Moreover, the small Islands seated round about the City to the number of sixty, with their Monasteries, Churches, Pallaces, and most beautiful Gardens; Upon some of which Islands, are erected many Collumnes, by the Aquleiesi, the Vicentini, the Opitergini, Concordiesi, Altinati, and several other People, who to fly the Fury of Attila, King of the Hunnes, recovered this Place; gives no small Imbellishment to this View. Between the said Moorish Grounds, now the Streets and the Sea, by Dame Nature is raised a Fence or Bank, to defend the City & the small Islands, against the furious Waves of the Sea, (with which 'tis invironed) Which Fence is Thirty five Miles long, and bends in the shape of a Bow, opening it self in five several Places, for each of which is a Gate, as well to permit Barkes to enter in at them, as to maintain the said Channels full of Water. The profound Havens of Chioza, and Malamocco, with the Forts built at the Mouth of the said Havens, to keep any Armado or Fleet at a distance; And lastly, the beholding the Mountaines of Carnia, and of Histria, and on the Right Hand, the Apenine Hills, with Lumbardy, together with the Famous Hills called Euganei, with the mouthes of the Rivers Adice, and Poe, and behind them the Alpes of Baviera, and of the Gerisons, alwaies covered with Snow, gives no small satisfaction, nor beauty to his Prospect.
And now we come to the Famous Piazza, or broad place of S. Mark, whose platform resembles a Carpenters square, at the one end whereof stands the Admirable Church of St. Mark, and at the other, That of St. Geminian, wrought with excellent Stones, and round the said Place are built fair and sumptuous Houses all of Marble Stone, under which are large open Galleries, wherein are Shops for several Artificors. In this place daily appear an infinite number of Persons, of all Qualities and Countries, in their several Habits, as well for Newes and Discourses, as for Traffick and Merchandize.
At the upper end of the said Place, upon the Channel called La Gi [...]deca, are two Pillars admired for their Heigth and Bigness, which were transported heretofore from Constantinople, upon the one whereof, stands a Winged Lyon, the Republick Armes, in token of St. Marke their Protector, with this Motto, Pax tibi Marce Evangelist [...] mens, and upon the other, is set the Statue of St. Theodore, between which Justice is done upon Traitorous Persons. These were brought [Page 13] from Greece to Venice, in the time of Sebastian Ciani the Duke, upon, certain Vessels of burden, together with another of equal Greatness, the which overcomming the Power and Industry of the Workmen labouring to lay it on the Earth, it fell into the Water, where at this time tis to be seen in the Deep: These vast Columns, were reared by an Engineer of Lombardy named Nicolo Berreterro, by the strength of great Ropes wet with water, retiring by little and little; who asked no other reward for this his worke, but that it might be Lawful for Dice-Players to play there when they pleased without any penalty: This Piazza is not intirely one alone, but fower united together. Opposite to the Church are reared three Standards upon three high pieces of Timber which are fastened by Lead cast into the boared holes, they are wrought with figures to denote the liberty of this City, and have Brass Pedestalls. On the right side of the Church stands the Clock house adorned with the Celestial Signs gilt thereon, with the Sun and Moons monethly ingress into them, most exactly wrought and painted. Neer the Steeple is a sumptuous Palace built in this Age, after the Ionick and Dorick fashion, which reaches even to the Church of Sain Geminian, which for the excellency of the Marble, Statues, Casements, Cornishes, Frets and other ornaments, together with the most incomparable Architecture, gives not place to any palace of Italy. Next is the Zecca or Mint-house built all of flint Stone, and Iron Barrs, without any manner of Timber. Annexed thereunto Stands the Library, which had its Original from Petrarca, and was afterwards aggrandized by the Cardinals Niceno, Alexandro, and Grimano. Lastly, this Piazza is rendred so Proud and marvellous, by the Uniformity of Building, and other Imbellishments, that I cannot say all Europe affords its like.
The Island Muran, must next be visited by taking Gondola, or Boat, Muran. which for its Furnaces of Glass is much admired through the World. This Island is distant from Venice about a Mile, and was begun to be inhabited by the Altinati, and Opitergini, for fear of the Hunnes. At present 'tis very comely, and resembling Venice, as well in the structures, as in the Quantity of Churches, but much more pleasant and delightful, in respect most of the Houses have open and spacious Gardens, set with all sorts of fruitful Trees. Among others, is the Church of Saint Peter, with a Monastery belonging to the preaching Fryers, well built, wherein is a famous Library full of good Books.
In this Place they make all sorts of Vessels of Glass (called Crystal Glass) whose variety & Workmanship surpass all others of the same materials of the whole world. And the Artizans (except in excellency of the materials) every day find out new Inventions to make them appear more desirable, with works divers from one another. I will not speak of the variety of colours which they give thereunto, because 'tis so marvellous that I imagine it worthy all Peoples sight. They counterfet excellently several things of Agate, Calcidonian, Emerald, and Hyacinths, with other pretty Toyes so excellently, that I believe were Pliny to be revived, and should behold them, he would (admiring them) much more praise these mens workmanship, and these artificial things, than he does the vessels of Earth made and burned by the People of Aretini, or of any other Nation.
[Page 14]Opposite to the Piazza of Saint Mark, and about half a mile dista [...]t, St. Georgio. is seen the Church of Saint George, the Greater, a stately structure of Marble. In which is beheld most curious Marble, both in the Pavements, and in the Statues, with rich workmanship of Silver, and most sumptuous Sepulchres of Princes. The Fryers of Saint Benedict have here a noble Monastery, wherein are long open Galleries, spacious Courts, ample eating-Rooms, and sleeping-Chambers, as also most pleasant Gardens, with a worthy Library.
In Venice are seventeen Rich Hospitals, with a great number of wealthy Churches, adorned with the exactest marble Stone; consisting of sixty seven Parish-Churches fifty fower Convents of Fryers, twenty six Monasteries of Nunns, eighteen Chapels, six Schools, kept within the Principal Fryeries or Monasteries. In all which Churches are fifty bodies of Saints, one hundred forty and three Organs, & many Statues made at the cost of the Republick, in remembrance of illustrious Persons, which have valiantly fought for her, or done some other signal piece of service, that is to say, 165 of Marble, and 23 of Brass, among which most worthily presents it self, That proud Statue on Horseback wrought with Gold, of Bartolomeo Coglione the most famous Captain-General of the Venetian Army, dedicated to him by this Republiek, before the Church of Saint John and Paul, in testimony of his Fidelity, and Valour.
Moreover, there are fifty six Tribunals, and ten Gates of Brass. The Store-House of the Germans, which is five hundred and 12 foot in circumference, whose Front outwards hath many excellent Figures, and inwards two Galleries which go quite round the one above the other, wherein are two hundred Lodging Chambers. There stand also up and down this City, besides what are above mentioned, infinite more Statues, Pictures, and glorious Tombes. At all seasons it abounds plentifully with fruits and herbs of all sorts, and two hundred several sorts of Fish: furthermore there are fourhundred and fifty bridges of Stone, fourscore thousand Gondaloes or Boats, with twice as many Gondaloers or Watermen, with a vast number of Chanels, among the which the Principal is called the Grand Canale, or Chanel, one hundred and thirty paces in length, and forty in bredth, over which is built that most artificial Bridge, called the Rioalto, being one Arch which conjoynes both the Banks, to be accounted for its heighth, length, and bredth, amongst the most glorious fabricks of Europe; whereon are erected twenty four shops covered all alike with lead, that is to say twelve of a side with magnificent Balustrades behind. They ascend this Brid Bridge by three degrees of steps, that in the midst consists of sixty six Steps, and thoseof each side, of one hundred forty five; to these rarities, may be added the infinite concourse of People.
And to the end we may remove that erroneous opinion that this City was built by Fishermen; let us observe what Cassiodoro, who was Counsellor, and Secretary of Theodorick King of the Gothes speaks thereof. Vos (saith he) Qui numerosa navigia in ejus confinio possidetis, & Venetia plenae nobilibus, &c. which happening in the four hundred ninty and fifth year of our Salvation, and from the building thereof between 80. and 90. years, gives a fair presumption, that the Venetians [Page 15] could not acquire so great reputation, nor less possess so many Vessels on the Sea, had they not been somewhat rich and noble too sometime before.
Your next visit must be to the Arsenal, or Magazine of War of this City, seated on the one side of it towards the two Castles, and Palace of the Patriark, which are compassed about with high Walls, and with the Sea. This Arsenal affords but one entrance by one only Gate, and by one only Chanel, where thorow are guided in all the shipping, and 'tis about the quantity of two miles in circuit. Herein generally they make all their works, and engines of War, but most particularly their Charge is to prepare here these 4. Materials for that Service, Timber, Iron, Brass, and Hemp. Of which their charge of Timber-work, they are so provident, (that besides what at first shewes itself to the view) there is under the water a good quantity of Gallies, great and small, Gallefoists, Pinnaces, Brigantines, Masts, Main-yards, Oars, and Rudders, for their Sea vessels. And for the Iron work, Bullets of all sizes, Nayls, Chains, Anchors, with divers Plates of Iron, as likewise for Brass, all sorts of Ordnance, and of all proportions. And lastly, of their Hempen works, all sorts of Shrouds, Sails and Cables. To which several works, continually attend a vast number of Workmen, and excellent Handicraftsmen, who being as it were born in that Place, and from thence obteining their livelihood, Neither delight in any other Place, nor do no other thing, but what there by their several Callings they are directed unto.
Therein are erected most ample Arches, wherein their several Vessels are kept dry, and built, some fully finished, some building, and others repairing. The next Curiosity, is their spatious Halls, full of Arms for defence in Maritine service, as great Celades, Cariages, and Breasts; and no less provided of Offensive Weapons, as Pistols, Daggers, Bramble Sithes, Partisans, Javelins, Two Handed Swords, Cross-bows, and Long-bows; Others of those Halls are filled with Artillery, as small and great Muskets, Falcons, whole Cannon, Demicannon, and Quarter Cannon, Sacres, and Culverins. There are some pieces of A tillery which have from Three Barrels to Seaven, which are called (if I err not) the Organs, Engines made more for a certain Greatnesse and Magnificence, than for use and service in War. To say no more, the whole is kept and governed with that order and neatness, that it doth not onely delight the Beholder, but would satisfie the most insatiable Appetite of gazers, and fill them with a certain spritely and Martial Ardour.
In fine, the Common wealth hath in this place all sorts of Ammunition of Warr, as well for Land as Sea-service. All Engines for offence, all charges for defence, and lastly, all things whatsoever made ready, either to set in order an Armado for Sea service, or an Army for Land-service, which may be needful. And although from this place (which may properly be called the Work-house and Storehouse of War) they every Day fetch Arms and Ammunition, as well for their force upon the firm Land, as upon the Sea; Yet nevertheless, by the daily labours of the Artizans, 'tis so restored, that it seems to no more diminish, than the Sea does by the many Rivers that issue [Page 16] out of it. Furthermore here is kept the stately Galley called the Bocentoro, adorned greatly with Gold and rich carvings, which never goes forth but upon solemn Feast Dayes, and particularly upon the Day of the Ascension of our Saviour, on which Day, the Prince in great state, with a Train of the principal Senatours enter herein, and being thence rowed to the Port of the two Castles near the Adriatick Sea, there after certain Ceremonies, the Duke solemnly marries the Sea, and casts therein a Gold Ring, in real assurance of this Republicks Dominion thereof.
This Republick allow the Greck Church a full liberty in Venice, who use as much ceremony in their Religion as the Church of Rome, but less superstition. Nor have the Jewes mean privileges, (for provided they alwais wear a red hat to denote the Blood they wisht and drew upon their own heads when they crucified our Saviour, and without which tis Lawfull for any one to kill them) they have as great immunities in all things as the Naturals, and more power than the Common sort; here also they have a Synagogue for every Nation, whereof they have nine in their Guetta or Court, which is assigned them for their habitation. Their concourse hither is from their immunities grown innumerable, which I suppose may give as great occasion as any other for this Cities vast Traffique whereof she is Mistress in these parts, as also for the rise and fall of the Exchange at the pleasure of her Merchants: in their Bank are managed vast sumes of money, and infinite exchanges dayly made, and yet a very small sum of money told out or payed through the yeer, such is the Reputation of those eminent Senators who are there the Bankers, where most of the Merchants accounts are kept for a small matter; the Ducket de Banco, whereby they compute their greatest sums and govern their exchanges, is but an imaginary Coyn, rising and falling at their pleasure. The Citizens rich and poor, wear a black Cap edged with fur on their heads, and are habited commonly with a long black Gown with large sleeves with a kind of skirt to throw over one shoulder, and their Collar alwaies open. Their Ladies did formerly wear their own or a counterfet hair below the shoulders trimmed with gemms and flowers, and mounted in their Chappenes (high as a mans legg) they walk between two handmaids to distinguish themselves from the Courtezans, (from whom the State for their free trade extract a great excise yeerly) who go covered with a white veil of tiffany. But of late yeers they use the French freedome both in habit and conversation much differing from the Italian restriction through their Jealousie. We had almost forgot the Island of Zuecca (distant from Venice one mile) wherein Zuecca. vast Edifices as well for divine worship, as for the use of the Citizens, with stately Gardens discover themselves; among the rest the Church ( del Redentore) or of the Redeemer deserves a place even amongst the fairest of Venice for its splendor and sumptuousness, being designed by Palladius the famous Architect, and built by order and at the cost of the State by a unanimous Vow which they made in the yeer 1576 when they were infected with an extreme plague: Which to denote, over one of the Gates of the right side of the said Church, we finde it thus written. ‘ [Page 17]Christo Redemptori.’ ‘Civitate Gravi Pestilentia Liberata,’ ‘Senatus ex voto.’
Here also is shewed some of the Coyns in Silver, which were stamped by Duke Luigi Mocenigo, in the Seaventh Year of this Republick.
The Journey from Venice to Milan, by the Province of Marca Trivigiana, and Lumbardy.
PADOUA.
TO goe from Venice to Padoua, first they take Boat at Venice, and row five Miles upon Sholes in the Gulf of Venice to Lizafusina, Lizafusina. so called from a Dutch word corrupted: At which place the direct course of the River Brent, was heretofore by the Lords of Venice artificially locked up, to the end, that running through those Pools and salt Moors, it might not through time and continual running work down the neighbouring Grounds: which to prevent, there was an Engine erected (called La Rota del Carro) whereby with excellent Industry, the Barkes, with all their Lading and Merchandize, were drawn up and transposed from out of these Pools, or salt Moors, into the River, and out of the River in like manner into the Pools; which at this time is taken away, and for supply thereof, the water is locked in with four several Flood-gates, the first at Strà, the second at Dolo, the third at Mirà, and the last at Moranzan. From Lizafusina to Padoua they account four Miles, whereby they travel either in Boats, which are drawn up against the stream of the River, or else by Land. On each side of which River throughout, appears a large and most fertile Campagna, with a rich soyl, embellished with stately and most sumptuous Palaces, and lovely Gardens, and no lesse beautified with the continual travelling of all sorts of People to and fro. First they arrive at the Country of Oriago, called in Latin Or a lacus, because to this place extend the Moorish Grounds or sholes, thence at Dolo, and then at Strà; Upon the left Hand, stands the great Town of Gambarare, so infinitely populous, that tis almost incredible; In the end they attain at Padoua.
PADOUA the Learned.
The ancient City of Padoua, is seated in the Province belonging [Page 18] to Venice, called Marca Trivigiana, in the midst of a spacious Plain, having the Sea at Twenty Miles distance on the East and South parts thereof: Towards the West, a large champion Country; And towards the North, the Mountains Euganei; It is of a triangular form, invironed with double Walls, and very deep Ditches; The Venetians have fortified it very much, by the immense Walls and Bulwarks, built by them according to the modern way of Discipline and Judgement in Warr.
We need not produce Testimony from antient Writers, to prove the Antiquity of this City, nor that it was founded by Antenor, Brother of Priam King of Troy, and that it was denominated heretofore Pado, either from Pò, or Patavio of Paphlagonia, because these things are notorious to all; As also that Padoua was Head of the Province of Venice, now Marca Trivigiana, or Marquisate of Treves, and that it was ever Friend, and allied to Rome without any kind of subjection, being extremely beloved and estemed, not lesse for their Alliance or Parentage, having their joynt Original from the Famous Troy, than for the many services and kindnesse received from it. Nor find we in any Author, That Padoua was either subjugated, overcome, or molested by the Romans, but that it alwayes stood free from the Roman Yoke, and that it aided the Republick on many occasions; And particularly, at that time when Rome was taken by the Galli Sireni, in the Warr against the Umbri, Boi, the Cimbri, and at several other times; So that it well merited and obtained the Franchise and Liberty of Citizens and Comunalty of Rome, and to be inscribed in the Fabian Tribe of Rome, without sending thither new Inhabitants, or making it a Colony, from whence the Padouans derived equal voice both Active and Passive, and participated all the highest degrees of that great Sate; And therefore we read in the Histories of Rome, and in those of Padoua, That many Padouan Houses transferred themselves to Rome, & as many Roman Houses to avoid the Civil dissentions translated themselves to Padoua. We may then conclude it to be no great wonder, that we find in so many ancient Writers, and upon so many Marble Stones, the Remembrance of so many Citizens of Padoua that were Roman Consuls, as Quinto Attio Capitone, Sesto Papinio Alenio, L. Arontio Primo, L. Stella Poeta, L. Arontio Aquila, Giulio Lupo, L. Giulio Paulo the Expounder of the Law, L. Ascanio Pediano, Trasea Peto, C. Cecinna Peto, Pub. Quartio, and some others. Another Peto was designed Consul, and Peto Honorato was Corrector of Italy, so also many were Ediles, Praetors, Tribunes, Censors, Priests, and chief Bushops. It was then so great and powerful, that they▪ used to muster five Hundred Cavaliers or Horsemen, And Strabo writes, that they commonly sent to the wars, one Hundred and twenty Thousand Foot Souldiers. It maintained it self ever glorious and invincible, until the Barbarous Nations made themselvs to be felt in Italy, for at the time of the Roman Empires declination, Padoua also indured the smart, being by the most Potent Attila (the Rod of God) wholly ruinated, and cast down even to the very Foundations; And though after that it was restored by Narsete, yet was it another time destroyed by the Longobardi. But afterwards under Charles the Great and his Successors, it began to fill it self, and to take some small restoration. This City [Page 19] was governed at first by Consuls, and after with a Podestà, or Provost, at such time as it became under the Power of Eccellino the Tyrant, who treated it most cruelly, which evidently appears; For at this day, neer the Church of Saint Augustine, they shew a great Tower, wherein the Padouans were imprisoned, tormented and slain, nay the Cruelty of this wicked Tyrant so far exceeded, that in one day in the City of Verona, for no other cause than his fantastical humour, he caused twelve thousand Padouans to be Butchered. Out of the ruines of so many noble Palaces destroyed by him, he intended and begun near the Bridge a new Cittadel for his habitation and security, but he lived not to finish above a fourth part, which is built with walls of a vast thickness with flint-stones squared, with a fair Palace and a proud Tower, which in truth is the most beautifull in all Padoua (and is possessed at present by Il Signor Conte Giacomo Zabarella.) Many notable things are extant in this City, but in particular there is a vault under ground which passeth under the River, and goes even to the Piazza, to the Palace of the Captain, and to the other abovenamed Cittadel. After his death Padoua recovered her Liberty, and became very powerfull, so that she got under her dominion, Vicenza, Verona, Trento, Treviso, Feltre, Belluno, Conegliano, Ceneda, Saravalle, Chioza, and Bassano, with all their Territories, all the good ground among the Fennes, and the greatest part of the Friuli, and other important places; then the Carraresi made themselves Lords thereof, and kept the power about one hundred yeers; at last the Venetians got the possession, having slain Francesco Novello with all his Children, and extinguished the principality of the Carraresi. Through this City runs the River Brent together with the Bacchiglione, which dividing it self into many branches gives a great accomodation to the Citizens. One of which branches or Arms they have brought to pass thorow the dike round about the Walls of the City. It affords in great aboundance all necessaries for livelihood, from whence the Proverb arises, Bolognia (Grassa) or wallowes in good cheer, but Padoua (surpassa) sur-passeth it. The bread they make here is the whitest of Italy; And the wine is by Plinie accounted amongst the most noble and excellent. This City hath about it seven gates, many Stone Bridges, five spacious Piazzaes, with many beautiful Edifices as well publick as private: Particularly the Palace used for the civil Law is the proudest in all Europe, if not in all the World, for so much as that it is covered with Lead, without sustaining either of Pillars or Beams, though its bredth is eighty six foot, and length two hundred fifty six. Which Palace after it had continued a foot 202 yeers being in part ruinated by fire, the Venetian Lords in the yeer 1420 rebuilt with greater splendour. The figure of this Hall is like a Quarry of glass with equal sides, but not right angled, not for the nearness of the Fabrick as some will have it, but because natural reason shewes, that a man standing bolt upright is with much more ease thrown down than when he stands a little drawn backwards, its site is turned to the fower Quarters of Heaven, so that at the Equinoctial the Beams of the Sun at his rising entring through the Eastern Windowes, beat upon the Western Windowes, between which is nothing erected to obstruct it: and so upon the contrary. And at the solstice or▪ stay of [Page 20] the Sun, when it can neither go higher nor lower, the Beams enter thorow the Gates on the South part, and play upon the opposite part; in sum, there is neither Gate or any other part without excellent Art and workmanship. The painting of it represents the influence of the superiour bodies upon the inferiour, divided with the signs of the Zodiack, in imitation of that Circle of Gold which stood in the Sepulcher of Simandio King of Egypt: In this Painting is to be noted the Antient Habits, and amongst others a Priest, who holds a Planet upon his back, which antiently they used large and of rich stuff, from whence it took its name. The Inventer of these Paintings averreth that this was Pietro d'Abano a Padouan, who was a most famous Philosopher and Astrologer, whom it may well be, since so many yeers before past, that these present Paintings copyed by the hands of certain Florentines, were drawn out from those which were preserved in the Antient Palace, by the hand of Giotto, and really these modern ones are very like to those which in the plain Astrolobe designed by the invention of Pietro d'Abano are treated on by Pierio in the thirty second and thirty ninth book of his hieroglificks. And if the Antients made such a noise and so much account of the Obelisk which in the Field of Mars in Rome shewed by his shadow the length of the Nights and Days, what shall we say of this Fabrick, wherein are collected so many noble secrets all worthy to be contemplated and admired?
Whosoever hath an appetite in Padoua to behold Paintings let them see the Church of the Confraternity of Saint Antonio, where they'l meet Pictures upon boards drawn by Titian, and other famous Masters, the Chapel of Saint Luke in the Sanctuary, where may be seen the true effigies of Eccellino the Tyrant, as also in the Font of the Domo or chief Church by the hand of an excellent Lymner. In the remarkeable Hall of the Lords of Zabarella Veraria may be seen pourtrayed the first Subjects of this City, as Antenor its Founder, Volusio the Poet, T. Livio the Historian, Q. Ascanio Pediano the Grammarian, C. Cassio the Tribune, L. Orontio Stella the Poet, and Trasea Peto the Stoick, both Roman consuls, C. Valerio Flaccho the Poet, L. Giulio Paolo the Lawyer, Petro d'Abano the most famous Philosopher and Astrologer, Albetino Mussato the Poet, Doctor and Knight, Alberto Verimitano Theclo, Marsilio Santo Soffia an admirable Physician, Marsilio Mainardino a Philosopher, Astrologer, and a most learned Divine, Bonaventure Peraghino and Francisco Zabarella Cardinals, Bartolomeo Zabarella ArchBishop of Florence, and Giacomo Alvarato the famous expounder of the Law, with a fair history of the most Antient times of Padoua, and the Genealogie of the House of the Zabarelli, with this following subscription:
In private houses may also be found most excellent curiosities, as with the Family of Mantoua, for Marco Mantoua a most eminent Lawyer built a fair Palace in the Street of the Hermits with a delicious Garden annexed, in the first Court whereof stands a great Colossus of Marble, being the figure of Hercules, and above is a stately Library no less replenished with Books, excellent Pictures, pourtraits of eminent men of the World, and singular sculptures, than with collections of Brass Figures, Marbles, Medals, and other exquisite things both natural and artificial, which with the said Palace are now possessed by Signor Gasparo Mantoua Doctor of Physick and Nephew of the abovenamed Marco.
Luigi Coradino Doctor of Philosophy and of the Laws, heretofore Reader of the Digests or Volums of the Civil Law in the University, a man of a most quick wit and polite Learning, an excellent disputant, and particularly conversant in antiquities, made a noble collection of Books, Pictures, Sculptures, Medals, antique Brass and Marble Tablets, and other rarities, which for the most part are enjoyed by the Signor Andrea his Son, Doctor of Philosophy and Physick, and Reader in the College, a Virtuoso, who conserves them in their Antient House in the Street called Torecelle.
Gio Domenico Sala Doctor of Philosophy and Physick, most renowned for having been so many yeers Reader in the University, and for having exercised his Profession of Physick with a known reputation, In his Palace which stands in the Street called San Lorenzo hath set up a Study replenished with Books, Pictures, Marbles, Brass pieces, Medals. and other pretious rarities, and in particular he hath there a large and neat Press with shelves all made with Walnut Tree, filled with Vessels of Christal, with all the simple minerals, and other rare and exquisite things, which were collected by the Signor Conte Giacomo Zabarella, Doctor, Reader of the College, and Canon of Padoua, after whose death coming to the hands of Signor Bonifacio Zabarella his Brother, they were by him given to the abovenamed Signor Gio: Domenico, in testimony of being his great Friend and Ally, as a gift of most singular estimation.
Benedetto Salvatico Knight, a Philosopher, and Physician, and chief Reader of the University, a most signal person, no less for his Reading than eminency in Physick, hath restored near the Domo or chief Church, his Palace, making there a most stately Gallery, gardens with Fountains, Voleries, and a thousand other excellencies, besides his books and Pictures
The Signor Conte Giacomo Zabaralla Count of Credazza and of the Empire, a most renowned and vituous Person, hath so much laboured in the study of History and Antiquities, that meritoriously by the Lear [...]edst Pens he is styled the Restorer of Antiquity and renewer of things devouted by time, being as well read in the Genealogie of Princes and other Illustrious Families, a work as may be said without compare; Besides that he hath found out the Invention to blason Coa [...]s of Gentility to a great perfection, with the right Linage and the equal compartments. The works composed by him [Page 22] give a sufficient assurance that a high value is justly put upon him, whereof are extant the Genealogie of Antenore, Agamemnon, Trasea Peto, Orontio Stella, Brandeburgica, Polonica, Auraica, and the Universal Genalogie of those Princes, and of many Illustrious Families, the relation of so many Originals of Gentility, the Histories of Conterina, Cornera, Zena, Quirina, Bemba, Michiela, and other, his histories of the City, and Families of Padoua, the glories of Venice, with many discourses, Orations, Elogies and other workes much esteemed by the Learned; He hath in the Street called Coda the whole length of his Palace erected a most noble Library, wherein besides that there are great Quantities of Books, of Histories, of Humanity, and other Learning all most choice, so also are there a good number of Manuscripts in Paper and Parchment, whereof many are set in gold with exquisite Limning in Vermillion, many whereof were never printed, whose very Originals he is Master of: Moreover, he hath the Chronicles of Padoua as well those that are in print as in manuscript; as also many of Venice and other Cities: And besides these in a Press of Nut-Tree of a notable Largeness and Workmanship he hath collected many Marbles, Brass pieces and other things natural and Artificial, Antient and Modern, of great value, as also a quantity of antient Medals, and of the later Princes both of Gold and Silver, and other Metals, which are of a sufficient valew, besides many rare Pictures by the hand of the chief Men of the past Ages, and the authentique pourtraies of Francesco Cardinal, Bartolomeo & Paulo Archbishops, Orlando and Lorenzo Bishops, all of the house of Zabarella, and likewise of the Counts Giaccomo the elder, Giulio and Giacomo the Philosopher, and of other eminent men of his house; He also preserves the great privileges granted to his house by many Popes, Emperors, Kings and Princes, with the Key of gold given by Massiminian the first, Emperor, to the said Count Giacomo his Ancestors, he likewise preserves many Antient and notable Seals of his Ancestors, wherewith they used to seal the privileges of those Counts, Knights, Doctors, and Notaries which were created by them, together also with many other most incomparable excellencies both concerning his own Family and many others.
Monsignior Giacomo Filippo Tomassini Bishop of Citta Nova, in the Street called Ponte de Tadi, hath his Palace restored and signalized by the Signor Paulo his Brother long since Doctor of Laws and the first Advocate of his Age in his Countrey lately deceased with a universal sorrow. This Signor is generally esteemed for a most virtuous person, a Philosopher, a Divine, an Astrologer, an Historian, and a Humanist, in all which he hath justified his Judgment by those most Elegant Books he hath wrote upon all these subjects, so much approved by the Virtuous: His Study excels no less in Books, Pictures, Medals and other things of valew, Than in the signal Library of the works of the Lawes left him by his said Brother.
The Signor Conte Giovanni de Lazara, Knight of the Order of Saint Stephen, Son to the Signor Conte Nicolo Knight of the same Order, hath no less honoured his Country by his Nobility and Virtue, than for his eminency in the knowlege of the Antiquities of it, and many other Countreys: whereto he hath added a Collection of divers [Page 23] manuscripts of great esteem, as also a good quantity of Medals and other things of price, among which the antient Seal of the Padouan Republick (whereof Scardevone in the 12 folio takes notice) is greatly valued: Besides on one side of his Palace (which is one of the fairest of the City) he hath drawn a Border whereon are set the Pourtraies of many Lords and Princes the Predecessors, and Parents of his Family.
The Signor Sartorio Orsato Doctor in Philosophy and Physick, Son of the Signor Orsato Knight of Saint Mark, an eminent Subject in his Countrey, is a young Student not less read and expert in Philosophy and Physick than in History, Humanity, and Antiquities, and in his brave house in the Street of Saint Francesco, hath made a Collection of the best Books and squares, with a good number of Medals, Marbles, brass pieces and other singularities of great Price: who having composed several works both in Prose and verse, as well in the Latine as Italian Language, to add to the fame and beauty of this his house, collects all the Antiquities of Marble Stone that can be sound and obtayned in this Countrey.
The Signor Francesco Orsato his Parent or Ally having his handsom structure near the Piazza Forzate, is a Gentleman virtuous and of no less noble Spirit, skilfull in the Mathematicks, in Maretine Affaires, History, and Horsmanship, and hath amplified a Study with Books, Tablets, Medals, Marbles, and Brass pieces, and other valuable and Antique Curiosities: Besides which in his Hall is drawn round a Frise, whereto are hung large Tablets made by the chief Lymners of this Age, with the Histories of the several illustrious Women in the holy Scripture mentioned.
The Signor Giovanni Galvano Doctor of Lawes, Reader in the studies, and an excellent Disputant, is meritoriously at this time created Protector of the famous Nation of the Germans, being elected to that degree not so much for his singular Vertue and Intelligence in his profession of the Law, and defence in Criminal causes, as for his knowlege in Languages, Humanity, History & other the most worthy Studies, as appears by the most learned compositions made by him, which demonstrate his great Wisdome; which also clearly appears by his skill in Antiquities, and in the Collections made by him of Books, Tablets, Marbles, brass pieces and other rare and exquisite things, wherewith in abundance he hath no less beautified his most signal Study, than with his Collection of antient Medals, both of Gold and Silver, and other singular Metals of great valew, in the knowlege whereof most Men of this Age will yeeld him a Precedency.
The Signor Alessandro Estè a most worthy Patriot, and much honoured in his Countrey, hath in his house likewise near Santa Margarita got together a notable quantity of Medals and antient Seals, and other rare and estimable curiosities. With which we will end our account of the excellencies of private Houses.
In the next place are presented to our view and admiration seaven marvellous things which are Temporal, and seaven that are Ecclesiastick, besides many others: For the first seaven are named il Pallazzo della Ragione or Hall of Justice, the Publick Schools, the Palace of Foscari alla Arena, the Court or Palace of the Chieftain, [Page 24] the Castle for the Munition, the Ponte or Bridge Molino and Il Pratto della valle or Meadow; And for the Ecclesiastick these Churches, Il Domo, il Santo, Santa Justina, Santo Agostino, Li Carmini, Li Heremitani, and San Francesco.
In the Palazza della Ragione or Hall of Justice abovenamed are standing fair Antiquities, among others is one of that immortal Treasure of History and Antiquity, Livie: in whose ever-living memory on that side of this Hall towards the West, is erected a Sepulchre or Monument with this old inscription or epitaph added thereunto. ‘V. F. T. LIVIUS LIVIAE. T. F. QUARTAE L. HALTS CONCORDIALIS PATAVI SIBI ET SUIS OMNIBUS.’
Titus Livius 4 o. Imperii Tib. Caesaris an o. vita excessit, aetatis vero suae,
LXXVI. and not far distant from thence stands his Image.
On the right hand of which is erected another Monument with an Image made of the whitest Marble of Sperone, Speroni, a man of an elevated Ingenuity, as may be known by his works, whichfor the most part he hath writ in the Italian tongue, with this Inscription following. Sperono Speronio sapientissimo, eloquentissimoque, optimo & viro, & civi, Virtutem, meritaque acta vitasapientiam, eloquentiam declarant scripta. Publico decreto. Urbis quatuor viri 1589. & Urbis 2712. Over every Dore of this great Hall (whereof it hath four) is a remembrance of those four most famous men who for their Birth challenge this City, and for their virtue have no less Illustrated this their Countrey than Italy it self with the whole Universe. The one is of the abovenamed and not to be too much honoured Titus Livius, the words whereof follow.
T. Livius Pat. Historiarum Lat. nominis facilè princeps, & cujus Lacteam eloquentiam aetas illa, quae virtute pariter, ac eruditione florebat, adeo admirata est, ut multi Romam non ut Urbem rerum pulcherrimam, aut Urbis, & Orbis Dominum Octavianum, sed ut [...]hunc Unum inviserent, audirentque, a Gadibus profecti sint. Hic res omnes, quas Pop. Rom. pace belloque gessit quatuordecim Decadibus mirabili felicitate complexus, sibi, ac patriae gloriam peperit sempiternam.
Over another Dore.
Paulus Pat. I. C. clarissimus, hujus Urbis Decus aeternum, Alex. Mammeae temp. floruit, Ad Praeturam, Praefecturam, Consulatumque evectus. Cujusque sapientiam tanti fecit Justinianus Imperator, ut nulla civilis Juris particula hujus legibus non decoretur. Qui splendore famae immortalis oculis posteritatis admirand. Insigni imagine hic merito decoratur.
Over the third Dore.
Petrus apponus Pat. Philosophiae, Medicinaeque scientissimus. Ob idque Conciliatoris cognomen adeptus. Astrologiae vero adeo peritus, ut in Magiae [Page 25] suspicionem inciderit, falsoque de Haerisi postulatus, absolutus fuit.
Over the last Dore.
Albertus Pat. Heremitanae Religionis Splendor, continentissimae vitae, sumpta Parisiis Insula Magistrali, in Theologia tantum profecit, ut Paulum, Mosen, Evangelia, ac libros Sanctorum laudatissimè exposuerit. Facundissimus ea aetate concionator. Immortali memoriae optimo jure datur.
There is also in this Palace a Marble engraven after this manner.
Inclyto Alphonso Aragonum Regi, Studiorum Authori, Reipub. Venetae foederato, Antonio Panormita Legato suo orante, et Matthaeo Victurio hujus Urbis Praetore constantissimo intercedente, ex historiarum Parente, & T. Liv. ossibus, quae hoc tumulo conduntur, Brachium Patavin. cives in munus concessere 1451.
To conclude with this Palace or Hall of Justice, if considered as an upper Room, tis the fairest and most spacious of Christendome, of which there is no part but hath some Astronomical secret; tis convered with Lead, and round about goes a stately corridor of Marble.
Near the abovenamed Palace stand the Schools for all Learning; which is the second Marvel, not only of Padoua but of Europe, within is a square Court, the building two stories high one over another, sustained with most fair Pillars; and round about in every corner are the Arms of all such as have been Consuls or Protectors in that University; some in colours only, some in colours and stone, with their Country, name, and yeer set up, at the Venetians charge, to make famous this Nursery of Learning. The Anatomick Theater erected in those Schools stands above, and is most neatly contrived, and most commodious both for the Professor & the Spectators. This University of Padoua is as it were the Market place of Learning (and much approaches the Academy of Athens) To this place from all parts of the World throng the most eminent in all the liberal sciences, and no small number of the Nobles as Scholars, not only from all parts of Italy and its neighbouring Provinces, but from the farthest parts of the World. In this City are ten Colleges, where are allowed honourable Pensions to many Scholars.
The first College stands in the Street Santo called Prattense, deriveing its name from its Founder Pileo Conte di Prata, Cardinal, and Bishop of Padoua, in which are appointed 20 Scholars, Padouans, Venetians, Trivisans, and Furlans, with a Prior or Governor, who heretofore kept a Coach: The Scholars pensions were 20 Crowns per Moneth and more, but the Merchants Banke of Venice (who usually payed them) being of late lessened, at present, besides their Lodging and Service, they have but ten Crowns by the yeer. The Cardinal committed the Government thereof to Francesco Zabarella his Nephew, and after his death to the most antient of his house, and of that of the Family di Leone, recommending it also to the care and overseeing of the successive Bishops of Padoua, and to the Prior of the College of the Professors of the Laws.
The second called Spinello à Ponte Corvo instituted by Belforte Spinello of Naples, is governedby the Priors of the Masters of Art, & by the most Antient of the house of Doctors, where are maintained four Scholars Masters of Arts for five yeers, two Padouans, one Trevisan, and another Stranger, each of whose allowance is twenty five Duckats by the yeer.
[Page 26]The third named da Rio built in the street so called, and instituted by that Family, consists of 4 Scholars Masters of Arts, approved by the most antient of that family, their stay is permitted for 7 yeers, their allowance is, Lodging Rooms, Bread and Wine, with twelve Duckats, and they ought to be of Padoua or its Territories.
The Fourth called del Campione situated in the borgo di Vignal is for nine Scholars in the Arts: two Padouans, two Trivisans, two Farraresians, two French men, and one other Foreiner, and for seaven yeers, they are allowed Wheat, Wine, Wood, Service, Lodging, and some moneys. The Patrone or Master is the Abbot of Saint Ciprian of Muran.
The fifth named Santa Cantarina is submitted to certain Noble Venetians, and hath for Scholars in the Arts. 16 who have Corn, Wine, Money, Salt, Lodgings, and Service allowed in a handsome proportion for seaven years.
The sixth dedicated to Santa Lucia by the Brescians conteyns 6 Scholars in the sciences chosen by the Communalty of Brescia, their allowance is 25 Duckats a peece with their Lodging and service defrayed.
The seaventh called Feltrino founded in the Street Santo, is governed by the nobles of the family of Altini in feltre, the continuance of the Scholars (who must be students in the Laws) is seaven yeers, their number is but two Scholars and one-Artist, they have for allowance a quantity of Wheat being 16 measures for each, and 10 Mastellaes of Wine with their Lodgings.
The eighth built in the Street San Leonardo named del Ravenna, is put under the tuition of Piavano di S. Giulano di Venetia, & the Scholars have Lodging Rooms, Services, and one Duckat allowed by the yeer for each.
The ninth in the Viginali called Cocho is for Six Noble Venetians, each ones allowance, being Lodging, Service, and 40 Duckats yeerly.
The tenth called Amulio, near the Pratto della vallae, is for 12 Scholars Noble Venetians, founded by Marco Antonio Amulio Cardinal, and every Scholar is allowed, Lodging Rooms, his services are payed, and six Duckats by the year.
The third notable and marvellous Temporal Rarity of Padoua is the Piazza or place caled the Arena, which is a noble Court, round about which stands the old Arches, and Vestigia of a proud Theatre, which by the antients was called Naumachia, but of later yeers they use it to run a Tilt, and for all manner of horsemanship, with many other games; the Ladies standing to behold them in the open Casements of that proud Palace, which stands at the head of the Court in a Lunary form, the Arena or Court being Oval.
Backwards towards the Wall are gardens filled with Vines and pretious Fruits, as, also on that side which is towards the Church of the Hermits with a small Chapel dedicated to the holy Virgin, which is also a Priorate of the house of Foscarie and belonging to that serene Family of Venice.
The fourth marvellous object is the Court of the Captain or Governour of the City, where the Proud Palace of the said Praefect, the Chamberlains and many other Citizens habitations, besides the [Page 27] dwelling of a world of other People are so contrived that it may not improperly be called a little Cittadel: This was the Kingly house of the Carraresi, Its Chambers may truly be said to be built for Princes, with two halls which for their Largeness and Nobleness could not be built for other; the one is Called the Hall of Giants, wherein stands the publick Library: here are pourtrayed the most eminent Subjects of the Roman Republick, & of the World, with a representation of their most famous Acts, by the hand of Gualterio a most eminent Lymner, with their Elegies under each figure, heretofore composed by the most virtuous Giovanni di Cavazzi a gentlemā of Padoua, and inscribed in a signal Character by Pietro Francesco Pucivigiano called the Moor: The Books conteyned in the said Library are most excellent and in great abundance; The signor Gio Battista Salvatico, Doctor, Knight, and a Gentleman of Padoua bequeathed to it, by his Testament, his Collection of the Books of the Laws of a great valew. The signor Giacomo Caino a Gentleman of Furlan Doctor and Reader in the College hath likewise given to it the Library of Pompeo Cacino a Physician his Uncle, of no less esteem; The signor Conte Giacomo Zabarella hath added to it a brave quantity of Manuscripts, some writ in parchment, others in paper bound in Leather Lymned with Vermillion and Gold rarely and exquisitely: some whereof were never Printed, amongst which are the workes of Cardinal Zabarella, of the Count Giacomo Zabarella his Grandfather of Philosophy; of the Count Francesco his Father, which are in rime and prose in the Tuscan Tongue very learned, and treating of many subjects concerning his own Family: Therein also are the Works of Cesare Cremonio the Philosopher, and many other bought at the Publick cost, and others added there by the Signor Ottavio Ferrari a Gentleman of Milan Reader of Humanity in the Schools, and the publick Library Keeper, which Library is every day so increased by the Nobility and others, that tis well hoped within a little time twill arrive to the Reputation of the richest and most famous in the World.
The fifth wonder is the Castle for the Munition above named near the Church of Saint Agostino, which was built by the Tyrant Eccellilino for his safeguard, wherein he slew so many Noble Padouans, that he had almost destroyed the whole City: herein are the publick Granaries to maintain plenty in the City, and all sorts of Ammunition for its defence in time of need.
The sixth admirable thing is the Ponte Molino; so called from the thirty wheels of Mills there erected (a most signal Object) and the five Arches of flint Stone; near which stands a Palace in manner of a Fortress built with those very Large squared & wrought Stones w ch were brought from the other ruinated Palaces and Forts by Eccellino the Tyrant, with a Fort and most fayr Tower, in the yeer 1250 And is now possessed by the Count Giacomo Zabarella, as is above said.
The seventh wonderfull Object of Padoua is il Prato della, valle a Meadow so ample that twould alone contain a great City: It was antiently called Campo Marzo, the field of Mars, from the Martial exercises there used, and in this place were many Saints beheaded by the Pagans, to such a number that they are wont to say that part [Page 29] which is compassed by Water was emplastered with the blood of those Martyrs: Here every first Saturday of the Moneth is held a free Fayr or Market of all sorts of Cattel and other Creatures, and at the Feast of Saint Antonio is a famous Fayr there, which although it happens in the hottest Weather, being there kept for fifteen days in the midest of June, and that there are then many thousands of Creatures, yet there is never seen a Fly to molest them.
If to these might be added an eighth Wonder, we would name the Vineyard or Garden of the Knight Bonifacio Papa fava, situate in the Street called Vanzo, where besides a most fair and adorned Palace, you beholds many statues of excellent workmanship, and infinite numbers of Cittron and Orange Trees, which forme lovely walks to the Passengers, for beautifying whereof, of those Trees are framed Arches and Prospects to delight the eye; to whose confines is conjoyned a full stream of water brought from the main River by a curious Aqueduct, which being confined to one Gate under the Wall, gives at its utterance a sweet murmur, and with its clear gurgling on every side washes the Foot of the Palace: And the flowry bankes within which the said Rivolet is contained renders the Palace as it were in an Island of so specious delights and pleasant Savours, that what is added by Art to that of Nature may well cause it to be termed the eighth wonder. Hither flock for their Pastime the Ladies and Gallants of Padoua, inviteing with them also the Foreiners with their Musick and other Pastimes, where (in the hottest Weather) the shade of the Trees, the Ampleness of the Walks, the pleasantness of the Waters, and the beauty of the site add (to their other joys and delights) a fresh Ayr. And although these beauties shew themselves in perfection, yet that magnanimous Cavalier never ceases to illustrate it (to his no small costs) with greater delights; and by this and his other Gallantries shewes himself to be born of that Family which for its Greatness and Dominion was no less formidable in Italy, than renowned in Europe. At this present resides here, this Noble Person with his Brother Scipio Papafava, Knight of the great Cross of the Order of Hierusalem, Prior of Messina, and the most worthy Primate of the whole Kingdome of Sicilia, together with the virtuous Roberto Son of the above named Cavalier Bonifacio, young in yeers, but his conditions a [...]d practices may challenge the ripest Age, who is the Comendatory Abbot of Sebinico, being Doctor of Philosophy, of Divinity & of the Laws, a true Splendor to his Country and Family, being conversant in the Greek, Latine, and Hebrew Tongues, and well known in the Mathematicks, as was testified by the singular experiments of his Ingenuity some Moneths since. There flourishes likewise of this Noble Family at this time a numerous company of Cavaliers and great Subjects, who degrade not from their most famous and Antient Progenitors, of whom to speak but little will diminish from their Fame, and much is not opportune in this place: for their Ordinary dwelling, these Signors have a Palace in the Street San Francesco Maggiore, where they have Coppies of exquisite Books in all the Professions, left them by Monsignor Ubertino Papafava Bishop of Adria, Brother of Bonifacio, besides many antient Manuscripts and Authors not yet printed, which relate the Histories of this Family [Page 29] also the old coyning Press of the Carraresian Princes, with other pretious monuments of this House, preserved in the Chamber of Rowles of the said Palace, which may be termed the most large and worth seeing of this City.
And now we come to the Spiritual wonders and Churches of Padoua, whereof the first is the Domo or Cathedral Church, situate (near) in the midst of the City. The Padouans were converted to the Christian Faith, by the predication of Saint Prosdocimo their first Bishopp authorized by Saint Peter, who (among others) baptized Vitaliono the Chief Man in this City, who therefore built the Church of Saint Soffia. Henry the fourth Emperor enriched this Cathedral, giving to it twenty seaven rich Canonicats, of so good a revenew that they may be styled so many Bishops; among which are four dignities, that is to say, Arch- priest, Arch. Deacon, The Person that hath charge of the wax, &c. And the Deacon; there are twelve under Canons, six Custodi or Rectors, and six Mansonary or Houskeepers, and more than 60 other Persons and Clerks belonging to the Chapel, besides the Masters of Grammar and Musick▪ with many excellent Singers, so that this Clergy exceeds a hundred Persons, and their Revenew above a hundred thousand Duckats by the yeer, which makes it the most noble and Rich of Italy: and therefore tis that the Bishop of Padoua is styled a little Pope, and his Canons with some reason the Cardinals of Lombardy, for that their Chapter is alwaies filled with the Nobility of Venice, Padoua, and other Cities, whereof so many have ascended to the Miter, and Hatt, that tis worthily called to this day the Seminary of Cardinals and great Prelates.
In this Church (not elsewhere as is pretended) lyes enterred the Wife of Henry the fourth, whose name was Berta, as is proved by this antique Inscription.
Under the Chorus within a rich Monument of Marble, lies the Body of Saint Daniel, one of the four Tutelars.
Two great Cardinals repose in this Church, who were both Arch priests of the same, that is to say, Pileo de Pratta, and Francesco Zabarella, with other eminent Persons.
Pileo Conti di Pratta a Citizen of Padona and of Furlan was for his vertue created Bishop of Padoua, and afterwards Cardinal of Saint Prassede by Pope Gregory the 11th. and Apostolick Legate. But in the yeer 1378. the Schism being risen between Urban the sixth his successor, and Clement the Antipope, he was deposed by Urban, after whose death Bonifacio the ninth suceeding, he was again created Cardinal with the Title of the Tusculan Bishop, and Apostolick Legate, and finally he dyed at Padoua, and was buried in this Church in a sublime and most noble Arch with this memorial.
And this Arch was heretofore in the Chapel of the Holyest, on the right side of the Chorus, but being necessitated to make the door of the greater Vestry in that place, it was removed out of that Chapel, and adjoyned to the nearest Wall in a worthy and eminent Place.
Francesco Zabarella, a Philosopher, Divine, and a sublime Lawyer, was esteemed the Prince of the wise men of the World in his Age, and his works left behinde him prove his desert of that Title: He was a most Learned man in all the sciences, and of a most holy Life, for which reason the Florentines and Padouans offered him the Episcopal Dignity, and other Princes not a few eminent Degrees. At last Pope John the 22d. created him Arch-Bishop of Florence; then Caidinal of SS. Cosmo, and Damiano, in the yeer 1411: and after that Legate of the Apostolick Sea &, Praesident of the Council of Constanza; where being earnestly desired and designed for Pope, he dyed in the 78rh. yeer of his Age, in Anno 1477. For whose Body (transported into his Countrey) was erected a most fayr Mauseole a rich Monument, where it reposeth to this day in the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, on the left side of the Chorus, in an Arch of pure white Marble with this Memorial.
This Chapel was called of SS. Pietro, and Paulo, and was acquired and endowed by Bartol. Zabarella Arch-bishop of Spalatro for the use and name of his Family; who thence are Patrons of it and maintain therein two Chaplains; afterwards it took the name of the Blessed Virgin, when the Noble Matron Antonia Zabarella Sister to the Cardinal bequeathed to it by her Will that most holy Image, which was found in her house, then placed over the Altar of this Chapel, which Tradition saith was painted by Saint Luke: which Robert King of Naples gave to Francesco Petrarcha, by whome twas transported to Padoua, and left to Giacomo the 2. of Carrara its Lord. After whose decease it came to Marsilio his second Son, who gave it in portion with Fiordilige his Daughter, Wife of Pietro Zabarella, then it came to the hands of the said Antonia, by whom with other gifts twas left to the Domo, and is that most holy Image which in [Page 31] their Processions they carry when they would obteyn in their greatest necessity the Divine Assistance by her Intercession. In this Chapel are other Epitaphs and Monuments, of the Noble Family of Zabarella, whose Original is known to proceed from the most Antient Sabatini, of Eolonia; whose Ancestors came from the Cornelii, Scipioni of Rome; of whom were the most glorious Scipio, [...]inna, and Sylla Princes of Rome; with many other Heroes, besides the holy Popes Pio, Cornelio, and Silvestro, and the Emperours Balbino, Valeriano, Gallieno, Tacito, and Florian, Celso, two Satarnini and Avito, and many other Saints and eminent Persons, in Bolonia, of that Family were also the Saints, Hermete, Aggeo, & Caio Martyrs, il B. Sabatino Apostolo di S. Francesco, Sabatino Bishop of Genoua, Elector of Carlo Calvo Emperour, with many other grand Persons who have illustrated and governed that City: Also their house being setled in Padoua by Cal [...]rio Sabbatino Count and Knight of Bolognia, his posterity were called Sabarini and Sabarelli, from whence arose the sirname Zabarella, of which Family besides the Cardinals abovenamed, there have been Bartol. Arch-Bishop of Spal. and Florence, who dyed a designed Cardinal; Paolo Bishop Argolicence; and Arch-Bishop Parience, Orlando and Lorenzo, who dyed with the name of Blessed Bishops, the first of Adria, the second of Ascoli; five Arch-Priests and seaven Canons of Padoua, many Doctors, most famous Readers of the University in all Ages, famous Counts and Knights, many valorous Captains, as, Andrea General of the Polentani, and Andrea the second, General of the Church, Giacoma the first made Count and Knight of the Dragon by Sigismond the Emperor, was by the Popes John the 22d. Martin the 5th. and Eugenius the 4th. constituted Governor of divers Cities, Senator of Rome, and called by a Bull, Apostolick Baron.
Bartol the second, Doctor, Knight, and Praetor of divers Cities, Praefect of Florence and Roman Senator, who as also Giacopo the second Counsellor and Knight of the Golden Key were by Massin. the second Emperour created Counts, and Knights, to them and to the eldest Sons of their posterity for ever; which was afterwards confirmed to Giulio his Son by Ferdinand the second, Father of Giacopo the third Zabarella the Philosopher; of such grand Fame were these persons; and these great men were known to be of this Family besides many others eminent both ln Letters and Arms.
But having mentioned two Padouan Cardinals, it seems convenient to me to give some account of the rest, since they have adorned this their Country with such a dignity.
Simone Paltanico was the first Padouan Cardinal, who being a person of great Knowledge, and the highest virtue, merited from Pope Urban the 4th. to be created Cardinal of S. Steffano & Martino in the yeer 1261 and afterwards Apostolick Legate. He dyed in the yeer 1276. His Family is extinct in Padoua, but in honour at Vicenza under the Noble sirname of Counts of Poiana.
Pileo de Pratta was the second Padouan Cardinal, as is aboves [...]id of this House are the Counts of Portid in Friuli.
Bonaventura Bado [...]ro of the Counts of Peraga, was a man of great Wisedom and goodness, and being a Hermitan Monk, he read Philosophy and Divinlty in his Schools; who after the other degrees [Page 32] ascended to the Generalship, and thence by Pope Urban the 6th. in the yeer 1384. was created Cardinal of S. Cicilia, and deceased five yeers after. Of this House are the Badoeri, Noble men of Venice, and the Padoeri of Padoua.
Bartolomeo Oliar io the Minikin, a famous Philosopher and Divine, was by the Florentines elected for their Pastor. after which by Pope Boniface the ninth he was called to the Cardinalship of S. Prudentiana in the yeer 1389. and deceased 7 yeers after.
Francesco Zabarella, was the 5th. Padouan Cardinal and Arch-Bishop of Florence, as before is related.
Lodavico Mezarota being a Philosopher and a Physician, deserted that his profession, and put himself under the command of Giovanni Vitelli General for the holy Church; and behaving himself well therein ascended from one degree unto another, till in the end (after Vitelli his death) he was constituted his successor, and Patriark of Aquileia: wherein he made such progress as is not to be imagined; let it suffice that he restored the Church to its Liberty, and delivered the Florentines and Italy, for which his Noble deeds he was by Pope Eugenius the 4th made Cardinal of S. Lorenzo, then Bishop of Albany, and Chancellor of the holy Church, he dyed in the yeer 1465: at this day is his Family extinct.
And besides these there were others of this City intended for Cardinals, who being overtaken by death could not possess that dignity, as Gabriel Capodelista, Aquensian Arch-Bishop was defigned Cardinal by Pope Clement the 5th, in 1304. Bartol. Zabarella Arch-Bishop of Florence, having been Apostolick Legate in Germany, France, and Spain, for weighty affairs, with the happy success of his Labours, and the great satisfaction of Pope Eugenius the 4th. was by him designed Cardinal, but upon his return, an indisposition seised him and deprived him of Life in Sutry, being but forty seaven yeers old, in Anno nostrae salutis 1445. Francesco Lignamineo Bishop of Ferrara and Apostolick Legate was by Pope Engenius the 9th. designed Cardinal, but he was prevented by his death in the yeer 1412. Antonio Giannotti a famous Lawyer, Bishop of Forli, and Arch-Bishop of Urbin, was Vice Legate in France and Bologna, where he dyed at his 65th. yeer, being then by Pope Clement the 8th. designed Cardinal Anno 1591.
In the Palace of the Bishop these things are worth a sight, The most ample diocess of Padoua, drawn in a large square by Marco Cornaro Bishop of Padoua a Prelate worthy of eternal memory, and a great Hall where to the life (as is believed) are drawn the Pictures of 112 B [...]shops of this most antient and Noble City. The Church of Saint Antonio of Lisbone merits the second Place amongst Padoua's fair Churches, as well for the design and artifice, as for the pretiousness of the Marbles and other Ornaments. The Roof of this Temple is distinguished into six marvellous Chapels covered with Lead. First must be seen the Royal Chapel of this Saint, adorned with the finest Marbles, and 12 Noble Collumns, in the nine spaces of which Columns between the one and tother, are engraven his Miracles by the most rare Sculptors of that Age, so well that it renders the spectators stupified. In the midst of which Chapel ari [...]es the Altar of this Saint, and within it lies entered his body. Upon [Page 36] this altar stand seaven Figures of Brass of a just proportion, wrought by Tytian Aspetti, the excellent sculptor of Padoua, Its Roof is adorned with the fairest Frets and figures made of pargetting stuff guilt richly, and its Pavement exactly composed with Marble and Porphyry [...]heckerwise. This Saint having lived 36 yeers dyed the 13th of June 1231, and was canonized by Gregory the 9th. in the City of Spoleto, in the yeer 1237. On which day in Padoua they go in procession carrying his Tongue in a little woodenBoul with great solemnity and superstition; which is accompanyed with all the Fryers of Saint Francis, that is to say, by the Conventuals Capucines, and those that go uppon woodden Pattens called Zoccolani, and with all the Doctors of the Colleges, as well of the Laws, and Physick, as those of Divinity and Philosophy; wherewith they also carry all the Vessels of Silver and other pretious things bestowed upon this their Saint, as also an infinite number of their holy Reliques preserved in curious Vessels: Among which are the Figures of ten Saints of pure Silver, 16 rich Chalices, 50 Vessels, 3 whereof are to contayn their Eucharist, many Silver Candlesticks, Lampades, Censores, and 50 Sylver Votaries or pieces dedicated by the vowes of several persons, which are as big as a small Child. Likewise a Shipp furnished with Masts, Sayls and Shrouds, together with a model of the City of Padoua both being neatly cast in Silver. In a fayr Reliquiary they preserve the Tongue of the glorious Saint Anthonio and in another his under Chap. In others all of Silver guilt framed with most exact workemanshipp, they keep a cloth dipped in the pretious blood (as they say) of our Saviour Jesus▪ Christ; three thornes of his Crown; some of the wood of his Cross; of the hairs and milk of the blessed Virgin; some of the Blood issuing out of the five wounds given Saint Francesoo; and many of the Bones and other rare reliques of infinite of their Saints, as may be seen in the Treatise published by Count Giacomo Zabarella Praesident and Treasurer of the Venerable Tombe of the glorious Saint Antonio: Who (befides the revenue of the Convent wherewith the Fathers are maintein ed) possesseth a great Revenue, together with much Silver and other pretious househouldstuff, all bestowed upon that Saint by Princes, and private Persons, which Wealth is governed by seaven Presidents, vulgarly called the Signori all' Archa di San Antonio; three Ecclesiasticks and 4 Seculars, with a Casheer, who receives the Revenues, and pays the Musicians and other disbursements, which Officers are elected every yeer, and every Six Moneths two of them change. In the Convent is a fayr publick Library, much amplified by the reverend Father Francesco Zanotti, an eminent Person of Padoua, who alwaies governed his Convent with great prudence as Guardian, and his Religious Order whereof he was Provincial: whereto the most reverend Father Michael Angelo Maniere Guardian and Provincial also hath added his Industry with great success and evidence of his Prudence, Virtue and Goodness; both whose good Actions have given [...] great Splendour to the Fame of this most Noble Convent. Near to this said Library is another Room wherein are kept the rare collections of Count Giacomo Zabarella, given to the said Saint; which consists of many excellent Books and Manuscripts, and all the Histories (in being) of Padoua, Venice and other Cities [Page 34] which no where else are to be found, also of Medals, Marbles, brass Pieces and other notable Antiquities, with the Golden Key, and all his workes, all which being before fully related, are here abbreviated to avoid Prolixity.
Opposite to the Altar of Saint Antonio is the Chapel of Saint Felix the Pope of like grandezza: where also repose his Bones; [...]ound about which are hung Pictures excellently wrought by Giotto, wherof Daute, Boccacio and other writers take particular notice: In it are the Tombes of the Signori Rossi and Lupi Marqueses of Soragna; and next the Chapel of Saint Antonio, with which it▪ maintains like Grandure and Fame, it is the most eminent of all; the greater Altar whereof is richly carved in Marble, and hath on the right side a Candlestick of a very great heighth, and wrought with many Figures, & over against it an artificial Chorus adorned with lovely Figures carved in wood: In this Church likewise are the Sepulchers of Fulgosio of Marin, and Ascanio Zabarella, the first famous in Letters, the second in Arms; which are erected in the Chapel of Saint Catherine appertaining to their Family; in another Tombe lies buried Andrea Zabarella with Montisia Polenta his Wife, Daughter of Bernardino Signor of Ravenna, with many other eminent persons, which would take up too much room and time to specifie. Before the said Church stands a noble Statue of Brass cast by Donato Fiorentino, and presented to the State of Venice, in memory of the Valour of Gattamelata da Narni, who was Captain General of their Armies: whose effigies is there erected on Horseback, and whose body with that of his Sons ly buried in the Chapel of Saint Francis with two fayr Epitaphs inscribed over them.
The third ecclesiastick excellency of Padoua, is the sumptuous and ample Church of Saint Justina, where are kept with great devotion the bodies of Saint Luke the Evangelist; Saint Matthias the Apostle, of the Innocents, of Saint Prosdocimo first Bishop of this City and Province, of Santa Giustina the Virgin Martyr, of Giulian of Massimo second Bishop of Padoua, of Urio the Consessor, of Felicita the Virgin, Arnaldo the Abbot; together with an infininte number of Reliques, which they preserved ina most Antient Cemetery called in those days the Pit of Martyrs: there also stands a speckled stone, upon which certain Martyrs were beheaded, another stone whereon San Prosdocimo celebrated divine service: Herein likewise they conserve the Tablet of the blessed Virgin paynted by Saint Luke, and with great devotion brought from Constantinople by the blessed Urio. Its Chorus which compasseth the high Altar round, is made all of Walnut Tree, and upon it engraven by Richardo Francesco the History of the Old and New Testament. It hath much Silver Utensils and pretious vests; to say no more, this Chapel for its structure and beauty, is an incomparable piece; And not a little illustrated by that proud aod wealthy Monastery of Saint Justine now contiguous with it, which for its sumptuousness, Grandure, and Riches, may be reckoned one of the Fairest of Italy. On the Walls of the Cloysters amongst the Legend stories designed, they have inserted hundreds of old inscriptions, with the draughts of old stones and pieces of Urns dug up when the foundation of the Convent was first Layed. It hath for revenue 100000. Crowns yeerly. It [Page 35] keeps an Abbot with many Fryers of Saint Benedict; And here began the Reformation of that Order, about two hundred yeers since.
The fourth signal, is the Church of Saint Augufiino, of the Fathers Dominicans: which was first a Temple of Juno, wherein the Antient Padouans dedicated the spoils of Cleonimus the Spartan, as saith T. Livie. Thence it became the Particular Chapel of the Carraresi, who there fixed the Sepulchers for their Family. Where also are the Monuments of Marieta, Mother of James King of Ciprus, and F. Carlota his Daughter, with many Memorials of other Grand Persons, as well of this City as Strangers; and in particular of Pietro da Abano, near the great Door. It hath a Stately Convent with a fayr Library, where are the Pictures of the chief Fathers of that Order.
The fifth Marvel is the Church of the Carmelites, famous for its vast height, and grandure, with one only Arch, and a most high Cupulo; Its Chapels are all of one resemblance, and in great perfection: Herein they keep an Image of the blessed Virgin, who, as they say, showrs down her continued favours upon those that devoutly by her intercession pray for them to God Almighty. In this Church are certain Monuments of the Naldi, Famous Captains, and many other Noble Families of Padoua.
The Sixth Ecclesiastick wonder, is the Church of Eremitani, wherein lies buried Marco Mantoua, the famous Doctor of Lawes. Here are the Chapels of the Cortellieri, painted by Giusto an antient Lymner, and of the Zabarella, by the hand of Montegna.
The seventh is the Church of Saint Francesco, wherein are the Tombes of Bartolomeo Cavalcante, Jeronimo Cagnolo an excellent Doctor, and of Longolio whereon Bembo composed the ensuing Verses.
In the Church de'Servi, is enterred Paolo de Castro; and near the Church of San Lorenzo stands a pure Marble Chest, erected upon four Columns which is concluded to be the Noble Heroe Antenors Tombe, from this Epitaph engraven upon it in old Characters.
In the Church of the Capucines, lyes buried Cardinal Commendone.
The Chief Families of Padoua, and Cavaliers are Alvorati, Marquess of Falcino, a City of the County of Bolzonella; Lazara Count of Paludo; Leoni Count of Sanguineto; Obizzi Marquess of Orgiano; Zabarella Count of Credazza; Buzzacarini Capidilista, Conti, Datti, Papafava, S. Bonifacii, and besides those aforenamed, these following, viz. Ascanio Pediano the Oratour; Aruntio Stella; Uallerto Flacco; Uolusio Poeta; Jacomo Zabarella a most worthy Philosopher; with many others both valiant and Learned who have much added to the renown of this City.
Between the Church del Santo and that of San Giustina, lies the Physick Garden filled with simples, and planted iu the yeer 1546. at the cost of the Students in Physick and Philosophy, to the end [Page 33] they might the more commodiously search into the nature & vertue of every Medicinal Herb: The chief care and custody of this Garden, is alwayes committed to some excellent Doctor in Physick, who Reads to the Students, the names and nature of every Simple; in the latter times Melchior Guillandino, Giacomo Antonio Cortuso, and Prospero Alpino, three excelling Persons underwent this charge, but at present tis in the hands of the learned Giovanni Vestlinghi [...], or Westlingius, a Knight and Anatomy▪ Reader in the University. A man allowed so great an esteem for his excellent knowlege, Edmond Wal [...]er Espuire. that he was become the Admiration of this Age, when I was in honour of Italy, In whom a worthy and Noble Person of our Nation, being casually at Padoua, at the proceeding of certain English, to the Degrees of Doctors, and having been an Auditor at some of his Lectures, composed these ensuing Verses upon the Anatomy.
Ten miles out of Padoua, towards the Port of Malomocco, stands the Castle Pieve de Sacco, from which the Bishop of Padoua Polverara. takes his Title of Count, a little beyond that, stands Polverara where are bred the largest foul, as Cocks and Hens, of all Italy. Near which begins the Sholes or Gulph of Venice, between which appears the most antient now deserted Cit [...]y of Adria which formerly gave the Adria. name of Mare Adriaticum, to the Sea now called the Golph of Venice.
Towards the North stands the Castle di Campo San Piero, whence that Noble Family took its name and Original. Between Padoua and Bassano is built a Cit [...]adel.
Towards the West is the City Vicenza▪ with the famous Mountains Euganei. Euganei, so called in the Greek tongue, for their excessive deliciousness; whence the Padouans extract great quantities of Medicinal herbs. Which Hils are neither part of the Alps, nor part of the Apenines, a thing scarce credible: than which Constantiue Paleologo said (as Rodigino reports) that besides the Terrestial Paradice [Page 37] twas not possible the World could afford a place more full of delights. At five miles distance from Padoua, are extant the Baths of Albano, where is to be admir'd the different kinds of Waters: how out of a vast high cavernous Rock arises two sources of Water not above 2 foot one from the other, of a perfect different nature; the one whereof encrusts & converts into a hard white stone, not only the Banks by which it runs, but what ever els is cast into it, in creasing the saidc rustment of what is thrown in, according to the time tis left in it, and that which is more, it begets Stone of the same nature upon the wheel of a Mill which is turned by its stream, which every Moneth enforces the workemen to beat it off with Pickaxes that their Mill may not be hindred; the Water hereof is never drunk by any creature, being held very hurtfull; but the other Water runs upon a light Sand, is much more light in weight than the first, and is divers times drank for sundty healthfull operatiōs: the people have dug the Earth in parts round the said Hill, and have found Sulphure, about the middle part, and at the root of them having dug towards the East and South parts they have found Salt. Abano at this day is nothing so much inhabited as we ought to believe it was heretofore; by reason that upon any digging they often find underground, many Reliques of Antiquity; some also will have it that here they spun the finest Linnen Cloth. On the other side of Abano stands the sumptuous and rich Monastery of Praia, with the black Monks of Saint Renedict: and near it the Church of Santa Maria di Monte Ortone. Approaching whereunto is the Convent of the Fryars Ermitans of Saint Augustine, called Scalci, or without Shoos in which are sources of boyling water, and mud, excellent for pains and shrunk sinews: though the difficulty with which they are come at, renders them of less common use than they would be, for they are a vast way in the Earth, and in small quantities too: but they are of a white colour, and stiff as well wrought clay; not black and dirty as those which are commonly gotten out of the adjacent Montagnone. They pass from Padoua to Estè upon the River, and upon the way espy the noble Castle of Monselice, (environed Monselice with most pleasant Hills) also the foundations of a ruinated fortress, where they gather infinite numbers of Vipers, for the composing of that so much famed Venice Treacle: On the left side whereof is the Hill Arquato Contrada, much spoken of in memory of Franc▪ Petrarca, whose habitation being long there, at length he gave up the Ghost, and was there honourably interred in a sepulchre of Marble, with this Epitaph enscribed, which himself made, as followes.
At this day also may be seen there his House, his Chair, and little Garden.
Two miles distant from Arquato upon a little Hill, is Cataio, a large Town of the Signors Obici: thence they come to Battaglia a Parish near the River, seaven miles after which one arrives at Estè a noble Castle and antient: whence that Illustrious Family of Estè Estè [Page 38] drew their Original. Whose Palace is transformed into a Monastery by the Dominican Fryers. From this Country they extract (besides abundance of all other things for sustenance) excellent Wines. It contains 100000 Souls, and the publick have 18000 Crowns of yeerly income. There they ascend the Mountain of Vende, where is a Monastery of the Fryers of Mount Oliveto, three miles whence stands another Mountain, where is the rich Abbacy and Monastery of the Fryers of Camaldol. Tenn miles beyond Estè is seated the noble Castle of Montagnana nothing inferiour to that of Estè neither in Riches Lendinr [...]. nor Civility, where they much trade in Hemp. Eight miles farther is Lendinara, a very strong Castle & Town washed with the River Adice: but the Ayr is a little gross in the Winter time, it contayns 4000 Souls. Near which is the Castle Sanguienedo, in the Confines between the Venetians, and the Duke of Mantoua: where there is a fayr even way for eighteen miles length. Isuing out of the gate of Padoua called S. Croce, which leads to Ferrara, first you meet Conselve heretofore a Castle of the Signori Lazara, where stands the most delitious palace of the Count Nicholas of Lazara, a magnanimous and generous Knight, wherein Henry the third, King of France and Poland quartered: near it lies the Count Paludo, whence the said Signor derives his Lordship: tis a Country Noble and Fertile, is a Convent of the Fathers Hermitans founded by Giovanni de Lazara, Knight of S. Giacomo, and Lieutenant General of the Venetian Cavalrie in the yeer 1574. After which is met Anguillara, whereby Rovigo. the Adice passeth. Farther on they go to Rovigo, made a City by the Prince or Duke of Venice seated, 25 miles from Padoua and 18 from Ferara; It was built out of the Ruines of Adria, whence tis not allocated above a mile; tis hathed by an Arm of the Adice, where are erected noble dwellings, environed with a deep Ditch or Fosse, which in circuit are about a mile; its Country is most Fertile, being compassed about with the 4 Rivers, The Poe, the Adice, the Tartaro, the Castagnaro. And so it borrowes the name of Polesine (which signifies Peninsula, almost an Island) from its length, and the circum volution of those Rivers. Many Illustrious Persons have added to the Glory of this their Countrey, as the Cardinal Roverella, Brusoneo the Poet, Celio, the Riccobuoni, and Gio Tomaso Minadoi a most learned Physician, who wrote the Persian History, with other famous men. It hath a Church dedicated to Saint Bellino, heretofore Bishop of Padoua, the Priests whereof with miraculous success restore to health such as are bit by mad Dogs, whom they as suddainly cure as indubitably, with a certain exorcism, which if malignity proceeded in a natural course of Physick, would not only require the best skill but length of time. Whosoever reads the 36th Ch. of the 6th. Book of Diosc. and those other Tractates writ on that infirmity, may comprehend how great this miracle is. Mathioli in the cited fol. of Diosc. owned the success, and willing to deduce it from some natural cause, saith, that possibly these Priests might intermix some medicinal herb or secret with that bread which they are wont to bless for Dog-bitten Mad Persons: but this may easily be answered, For this Church is governed by two poor Priests who many times desert it; nor are they of a selected condition; and twere strange if since the time of Saint Bellino to this day none should arrive [Page 39] therebut he must bring that medicinal secret with him▪ Secondly they give but one little morcel of that blessed bread to a person, and it can scarce be imagined enough of the medicine should be conteyned in so small a parcel of Bread, for so wonderfully a dangerous disease. Thirdly the Nuns of Saint Fetro in Padoua, have an antient Key which was San Bellinoes, which Key heated▪ and its sign made on the head of the mad Dogg▪ he never after that is troubled with the least sign of madness▪ Which being, tis necessarily conluded, and the Physicians must p [...]r force confess, that tis a pure Miracle wrought by God at the intercession of San Bellino, who by the instigation of certain evil People, was torn in pieces by Doggs, and his glorious Corps layed up in the said Church of Polesene.
Desiring to go to Ferrara, First they take the way Rosati, till they arrive at the Poe, which passing by Bark, they reach Francolino, a County some five miles from Ferrara.
VICENZA.
VIcenza is now seated in the Marca Trivigiana, or the Marquisate of Ireves, It was built (according to Livie, Justine, and Paulo Diacono) by the Galli Senoni, who fell down into Italy in the Reign of Tarquinius Priscus, in Rome, giving the name of Gallia Cisalpi [...]a, to that part possessed by them: But Strabo, Pliny, and Polyb [...]s will have it to be founded by the Antient Tuscans, and that it was one of the twelve Cities under their dominion, on this side of the Apenines, and that it was much encreased and amplified by the Galli Senones. When afterwards the Cities thereabouts performed good service for Omnipotent Rome, at the descent of other French men, in the yeer 366. into Italy, and at their Assayling of Rome, Vicenza being one of them, in recompence of their assistance so oportunely contributed, was created Municipal, a Free City: whence exercising their own Laws and Statutes they participated of the honours and dignities of Rome; and thence tis we find so many of its Citizens in the Magistracy of that grand Republick, among others, Aulus Cecinna, the Consul, was General of the Army of Vitellius the Emperour, In whose honour (because he so much surpassed the fame of an ordinary Citizen) It will not be impertinent to place here this following antient inscription. ‘A Caecinnae Felicis, Viteliani exercit. Imp. Ob Virtutem, & munus Gladi atorum apud se exhibitum Cremona.’
To it was allotted also the Title of Republick and City, as is to be seen in many antient Marble Stones up and down the Countrey, and twas assigned to the Tribe Menenia. It was under the protection of Brutus and Cicero, as appears in his familiar Epistles, and in this antient inscribed memorial: ‘D. Bruto, & M. Tullio Viris in Senatu contra Vernas optimè de se meritis Viceut.’
All the time the Roman Empire continued in its Grandezza, it [Page 40] ever followed the victorious Eagle, which decaying, this also suf▪ fered much Calamity, and underwent those mutations, which it and all the Cities of Italy gro [...]ned under with miserable example: Not at all, nevertheless, declining from its antient Vigour and Reputation: Whence it was that the Longobardi held it very considerable, and assigned to it, Its own particular Dukes and Counts, Those Governours calling themselves by that Title, for that they continued for life, and to their Heirs masculines after them: Of one of whom Paolo Diacono makes a noble record in the life of Leon the Peredeo Emperor, which was Peredeo Duke of Vicenza, who marched to Ravenna in assistance to the Pope, and there dyed fighting valiantly for his Holiness.
This City was by Desiderio the last King of the Longobardi selected amongst all his, to place securely his Son Aldigerio, when himself was besiged in Pavia, by Charles the great; but it avoided not its total destruction.
The Reliques of its antient Theatre, which at this day demonstrate themselves in the Gardens of the Signori Pigafetta, and Gualdi (wherein both the Kings of the Longobardi and those of France often sate to behold the publick shewes and Games) And the fragments of the hot Bathes, with the Pilasters for the Aqueducts, give sufficient testimony that it had no defect of whatsoever, either for Ornament or magnificence, other famous Cities use to enjoy. And at that time when Lo [...]arius the Emperor endeavoured in Rome, in the yeer 825, to reform the occasion of the Feudes, and to that end convocated the principal Lawyers of the primary Cities of Italy, He also invited the Vicentine Counsellors with an honourable testimony of what esteem he had for the City Vicentia.
Furthermore when Ottone King of Germanie (the Berengarii being overcome and discomfited) was by the Pope crowned Emperor, he remised the Italian Cities in Liberty, granting unto them Power to elect their Podestà or chief Governour, and to enjoy their own Laws, among the rest Vicenza participated of that so great a gift: Whence forming a Carrocio or Chariot which was the Badge of a free City, and acknowleging the Empire with the ordinary Tribute, it lived in the form of a Republick, (although much perplexed with the most cruel factions of its own Citizens) until the yeer 1143. When Federico Barbarrossa having gathered the utmost of his Power, forced all the Cities of Italy into servitude, and destroying Milan, in the rest constituted a German Podesta
Vicenza endured not long this Tyranny, but united with Padoua and Verona, they shoke off the yoke, and sent the first Embassadors to the Milanesi to offer them assistance, and to perswade them to do the like; and so they concluded the famous League of the Cities of Lombardy, by which Colleagues Barbarossa (being overcome between Como and Milan) was driven to the other side of the Alpes. Which victory the peace of Costanza followed, to the conclusion whereof came also the Orators of Vicenza, where they megliorated enough their Cities Condition, and the state of their Liberty, chiefly for that Henry the Son and successor of Federick confirmed the abovenamed Peace with all the conditions conceded by his Father: All the Embassadors of the Colleagued Cities randezvousing [Page 41] at Piacense, to that purpose, where also was the Emperor; and Michael Capra a Vicentine was comissionated thither for the City of Bolognia.
In those dayes the Republicks Library flourished in this City with infinite cōcourse of Forein Nations, abounding with the most worthy Professors in all the sciences and Arts, which it appears continued to the yeer 1228. In which yeer Federick the second being exalted to the Empire, an extream Enemy to the Pope and Cities of Italy, after many ruines whch he brought on others, in the yeer 1236 burnt and destroyed Vicenza; exercising his greatest cruelty against the most potent Citizens, which reduced it with great ease under the wicked Tyrant Eccellino, continuing so until his death, when waving and debilitated, it by degrees crawled up the steps of its Antient Liberty; yet not so strongly, but that after 46 yeers it underwent by the Citizens neglect, the Signory of the Scaligeri, who there governed under the shadow and name of an Empire: and that title not improperly taken, for that Can Grande at that time their head, was a most valiant and potent Lord.
Vicenza was well treated under their government, and many publick Edifices restored, but the wheele of Fortune running round, and the Line of those Lawfull Signors extinct, Antonio the last of them and illegitimate, was first deprived of Verona, then of Vicenza, by Gio Galleazze first Viscount of Milan, by whom it was held very dear, and so much honoured for its fidelity, that he made it the Chamber of his Empire.
He dead Catarina his Wife distrusting her own ability to maintain so great Dominions, by her Letters full of Courtesy, absolving their Oath of fidelity, gave the Vicentines ample Liberty to elect their own Government, who after divers consultations and many solicitations to colleague themselves with the Switzers, and to become one of their Cantons, having at large supervised the great calamities of the passed times, and fearing future miseries, At length the Advice of He [...]rico Capra (a wise and esteemed Citizen of great Interest both for his many adherents and riches) prevailed to surrender themselves of their own free accords to the Republick of Venice, whose pleasing Goverment was then become famous through the whole world. Who accepting with all Gratitude this their free offer, confirmed unto them all such Jurisdictions, Statutes, & Prerogatives, as they knew how to demand; and in particular the Consularship the most Antient Magistracy of this City, and received it into protection, styling it the first Born and most faithfull City, under whose Signory it hath ever since continued, dayly encreasing both their Wealth, and conveniences.
Yet notwithstanding, at the Inroad of Gi [...]radada, the State of Venice, (though unwillingly) gave way to the Signory of the whole firm Land; by which means Vicenza fell into the hands of Massiminian the Emperor, who sent thither Leonardo Trissino, to receive possession thereof, as Vicar of the Empire, which he performed there, as also in Padoua: Who with Vicentia, through the great affection they bore the Republick of Venice, and the singular Prudence of the Venetian Senate within some few yeers after easily returned to their former Obedience under it.
[Page 42]This City is four miles in circuit, in form like the figure of a Scorpion, & although informer times it had the Reputation of strong, from the double Walls which invironed it; yet tis neither fortified nor capable of Fortification: it being situated at the bottome of a Hill that comands the Town; however (voluntarily living like the Antient Spartans) the Citizens pro [...]ess that the Walls of their Breasts suffice to maintain even to the death their Fidelity to their natural Prince, which preserves it with safety. It is washed by two Rivers Bacchileone (by some Latines called also Meduaco Minore) and Rerone Ereteno before mentioned, together with two other small Brooks, Astichello and Seriola, which serve them with many conveniences. All which united at a small distance from the City, form a Navigable River as well upwards as downwards, capable of Vessels of a huge burthen, who passing by Padoua reach Venice, and give the best occasion and reason for the riches of that Countrey.
They account that it with the Burroughs conteyn 40000. Souls, being replenisht with Proud and Stately Palaces, Noble Temples and publick Structures built after the modern Architecture: the Hall of Justice (wherein the Judges assemble to do Justice) for its Antient and modern Structure may be compared with any in Italy: Upon the highest Tower raised to a Wonder (which joyns to it) is placed the Horologe which serves all the City within, and a mile out of it, most comodiously.
The Piazza most capacious for all their Justings and Turnaments, (where morn & even rēder themselves the Nobility) is no less adorned with Open Galleries & the Fōrt of the said Palace, than with a fayr habitation, for the Seignor Capitano and the Fabrick of that mount Piety, which is so rich that they lend such sums as the poor Citizens require without any Usurie. Besides this (which is called Piazza Maggiore) there are five other Piazzaes for the publick markets, of Poultry, Grain, Wine, Wood, Hay, Fish, Fruits, and Herbs. And as the Splendidness of the Vicentians Spirits is apparent in profane things, so does their Piety and magnificense, no less shine in and towards the Divine worship: For which they number in the City 50. Churches accounted Stately, and beautified with antient and modern Pictures, whereof 14. are Parochials, 17. of Fryers, and 12. of Nuns, all well furnished with receptacles and other necessaries for subsistence: Among which the Mendicants or begging Fryers, by the Charity of the Citizens, have no mean Reliefs. In the Country are also 3. other Monasteries of Nunns, and above 20. of Fryers, besides Parochials, which are very ample in the Villages.
They are well stored with Hospitals for the poor of all conditions, having nine, besides the Confraternities and other retreats of Godly pe [...]sons who wait on works of Charity. In the Cathedral (signal for the good Bishoprick of 12000 Duckats yeerly Revenue) besides other Reliq [...]es they keep the bodies of the Martyrs Carpoforo and Leoncio Vicentines. And in the Church of Santa Corona of the Dominican Fryers one of the thorns of the Crown of the Saviour of the World, given in the yeer 1260. by Lodovico or Lewis the Saint King of Franee, to Bartolomeo Breganze, Citizen and Bishop of Vicenza It received the Light of the Faith of Christ by the teaching of Saint Prosdocimo first Bishop of Padcua, Saint Paul yet living.
[Page 43]Near the Domo stands l'Oratoria de Madonna, or the Oratory of our Lady, raised by those of that confraternity, in imitation of that of Rome, which possibly in magnificence and beauty it surpasseth.
Its State under the Venetian Dominion is such, as certainly no City under their power hath greater privileges. The Consul the most antient Jurisdiction of this City judging all Criminal Offences, and its own Citizens all other civil Causes: For which end the Council chuseth a round of four Doctors and 8 Laicks, which change by fours every month. These form the process for Manslaughter, in their City and Territory, and being summoned to meet Morning and Evening, in the Congregation, the Antientest of the Doctors assuming and stating briefly the Case, first gives his Judgement, after whom all the rest, from one to the other, and last of all the Podestà who hath but one voyce, pronounce theirs, and the sentence passeth by the Major part of Opinions, whence there is no appeal: And their Justice hath been so duly administred, that hitherto the supreme Prince never violated nor revoked their Judgement. The said 4. Doctors have also their seat of Justice for Civil Causes, whence there is an appeal to one Judge (who is therefore stiled the Judge for Appeals) who must be of the same College, or to the Podefia or his Assessors, so that tis in the will of every person to determine his Cause before the proper Judges of Vicentia.
The Deputies who represent the City consult and order those things which appertain to its honour and the publick good, and have absolute power in all their Cities Provisions: who chuse four of the chief Nobility, called the Cavalieri di Commun; who with their Officers oversee the Weights and Measures, and that all the orders made for the benefit of the People be duly executed, and in case of any defect report it to the Deputies; These Magistrates are every yeer created by the council of the 150 Citizens, and also are chosen every yeer, whereby to give occasion to every one to demean himself well and to live virtuously.
It hath three Colleges, One of the Doctors of Lawes, where none is admitted, that cannot prove himself of a house of Nobility, of one hundred yeers standing, and Legitimate Issue for three Ages, besides that, he is examined of his knowlege at his entrance, and obliged to proceed Doctor in the University of Pado [...]a. The second is of Physicians more modern, and the third of Notaries, most antient and restrained.
It hath Six thousand duckets of Income by the yeer, which is expended in repairing the Bridges, Highways, and Palace, maintaining an Ordinary Resident at Venice, and other extraordinary charges. The Vicentines delight to go abroad in the World, (an humour seldome met with in the Italians) as well to learn good breeding, as to provide for their Families: So that returned home they live in all splendor and politeness, both within and without doors, go richly apparelled, as well Men as Women, and keep many followers; which they may well do, by their abundance of Riches
For which cause this City is reputed full of Gentry, and their common Title is, il Signor Conte. Nor are they less noble in their buildings, both publick and private, than in their garb: for by the industry [Page 44] of Palladi [...]s a Vicentine and reviver of the Roman Architecture, it shewes it self most pompous, and equal to any other great City: The Vicentines are great Lovers of Strangers, liberally entertain with all sorts of Regalios, the acquaintance and friends they take knowlege of in other places, and willingly take the oportuninity to treat any great Prince.
They erected a Theatre by the invention of Andreo Palladio the Renovator of the good and antient Architecture (capable of 5000 persons in their Seats) as by this inscription appears. ‘Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc a fundamentis erexit Paladio Archit. Anno. 1584.’
The Stage, or Scene, is a stupendious thing to behold, for the many Statues and Corinthian Pillars; the Prospective represents a Royal City, where was first performed, with great Applause, and incredible satisfaction to the whole Province, in the yeer 1585: the representation of Epidus Tyrant of Soffocles, acted with lordly pomp, as well in the habits, as musick, Chorus, and illumination of the Theatre: The Olympick Academy (to whom we owe this work) ought therefore to be thanked as the receptable of the Muses, and all other noble and elevated ingenuities. The Vicentines chiefly have the obligation for this work, to the memory of the Cavalier Chieregato Governour of all the Militia of the Kindome of Candy, and restorer of all the antient and good discipline for the Infantery.
Besides that Olympick it hath another Academy more modern for Horse, founded, by the Count Oderico Capra Leader for his Highness of one hundred Men in Arms, not less usefull for the Exercise of the Youth, than for the manage it gives the Horses, with much profit to the Prince in warlike Occurrences, where good Masters Riders are well entertained.
Which makes the City be filled with well managed Gennets and other the best Horses of Lumbardy. For instance, view the Stable of the said Count Oderico, furnished with 15. Coursers, of the best Races of Italy.
Going out of the Gate, Del Castello, is the Campo Martio (made in imitation of, that antiently in Rome, which was for the hunting Campo Martio. of wild Beasts) for the exercises of the youth, and Souldiery, watered round; whither the Ladies and Gallants resort in the summer Evenings to participate the fresh Ayr, which the surrounding Hills afford. The Arch or entrance into this field will remain as a lasting monument of Palladius who built it. Opposite hereto is the Garden of the Count Leonardo Valmarana, which is very praise-worthy for the long and beautifull closs walk of Citron and Orange Trees, and plenty of all Fruits, together with the Labyrinth. At the head of the Burrough stands the Temple of San Felice and Fortunato the Martyrs, which some believe that Narsitze built, therein is preserved the Body of San For [...]nnato and he [...]d of San Felice, which were lately [Page 45] found in the Cloyster of the Bishop, miraculously in [...] Ch [...]st of Lead, with Letters signifying so much: viz. The head of San Fortunato, and the Body of San Felice, of whose Martyrdom Cardinal Beronio makes mention.
A mile further is the Oli [...], made famous by the overthrow which Alviano the Venetian General received from Cardona and Prospero Collonna, Captains of the Spanish Army. Somewhat beyond stands the Castle of Montecchi [...], with the Palace of the Co [...]ti G [...]aldi where Charles the 5th. Lodged. Whence by Mo [...]tebella they pass to Verona, leaving on the right hand the pleasant Valley Dressina, with Valdagno and Arcignano, most populous and trading Villages, where they make Linnen Cloth, not ordinary, neither in quantity, or quality. And on the left hand Lo [...]igo Podestaria, which for its white bread and good wine carries the Bell: famed also for the birth of Nicolo Leoniceno, a most renowned Physician, and very much endeared by Hercoles first Duke of Ferrara, near whom he lived and dyed, having long read in that University.
Issuing forth of the Gate de Monte, one sees another Arch of Palladius, with a most high Stayr case, to the top of Madonna del Monte held in high vene [...]ation for the continual Miracles wrought at her intercession, and much frequented by the Neighbouring People. A quarter of a mile farther by the River side which is navigable; upon a little Hill (as it were artificially separated from the other, and of a Facil ascent) stands the Rotonda, of the Signors Counts, Oderico and Mario Capra Brothers, so called from the round [...]upola at the top (or likeness it hath with the Pantheon at Rome) which covers the Hall of the same Figure: They mount to it by four ample Marble pair of Stayrs, where are four spatious Chambers worth seeing for the fair Columns which seem of an excellent Marble called Paris. From each of which one may behold various prosp [...]cts, from one an immense campagna, another the large Theatre and Town, the third mountains over Mountains, the Fourth Land intermixt with Waters, so that the eye rests marvelously contented. The round of the said Hall garnished with Figures of Plaister of Paris, and Pictures and bordered with gold, receives its Light from the Top like the Pantheon of Rome. The Chambers are all guilt & mingled with Histories of excellent Invention and Pictures drawn by the hand of Alessandro Maga [...]a a Vicentine, Palladius made this his Masterpiece, for tis so contrived that it conteyn [...] Geometrically a Round, a Cross, and a Square: And if in any place the Heavens seem to display their eternal Beauty, more than in other, tis there. They use to say that Apollo and the Sisters with their Chorus so journ there, And that Bacchu [...] resides in his deep Seliars; which are so vast, and filled with the best wines, and they with so much liber [...]lity and bounty free to all persons, That they must not be passed without a visit: nor the Gardens filled with Citrons and all sorts of outlandish Flowers: all which are splendidly governed and freely shewed to all Strangers with all kind acceptance from the Patrons.
The passage over the Park of Longara planted with incomparable fruits by the said Counts, will not appear tedious at your arrival at Custoza, beautified with the Acqu [...]ducts for wind, which driving the Fresoo upon the Palaces exceedingly temperate the heat of the [Page 46] Sun in Leo, together with the most cool Wines, kept in those great Cavernes in Snow: whose dry and wholsome Ayr (though as twere congeled) makes them be infinitely frequented in the Summer, as a most singular delight and without a Parallel.
On the right hand of Custoza having traversed the Bridge Bacchiglione and drawing some miles towards Padoua, is seen the Castle of Montegalda, formerly an important Frontier against the enemies, but now by the benefit of this Peace become more like to the Castle of Alcina, the storehouse for the Munition, being now applyed to conteyn waters for the use of artificial fountains, and the Ditches converted into walks planted with Citron and Orange Trees, whose blossoms afford a most pleasant odour into the Palaces; but not to come to near Padoua already so fully visited, let us return by Custoza▪ again to Vicenza, and in the way thereto leading by the River side, between it and the Mountains behold the Vicariate Barbatona, whose Hils called Alcini a little hanging and receiving the heat of the Sun at high Noon, afford those delitious wines esteemed only fit for the Palate of an Emperor called Monte Alcino.
From Vicenza desiring to go to Ferrara, they travail by Poiana which terminates the confines on that side, where the most Noble Palace of the Count of Poiana most worthy of its Builder Palladius, and furnished with excellent Pictures, deserves a serious view.
A mile forth of the Gate of Saint Bartolemeo, stands the Palace of Circolo, appertaining to the Count Pompeoi Triffino built after the modern Architecture by his Grandsir Giovan Ciorgio, a famous Poet, and no less skilled in this Art, than in all others, as well as the liberal Sciences, which deserves a visit for its compact structure and excellent Invention: whence advancing over a fair plain, one reaches at some miles distance the pleasant Country of Breganza, famous for its sweet and flavorous wines.
Turning on the left hand a rough Country conducts one to Maarostica, a Seat for a Podesta, and a large Castle, the Country and Birth place of Angelo Mateaccio, a most learned Man, and Reader of the Civil Lawes for a long time in Padoua, at the same time, Alessandrio Massaria, was Chief Reader in Phisick, and of the Conte de Monte, both Vicentines, and the Escu [...]pii of this our Age, and from Marostica, at three miles distance, is seated Bassano, now out of its Territories, heretofore comprehended in them, and to this day in Spirituals governed by the Bishop of Vicenza.
On that part of Breganze, which is washed with the Aflico is Scituated Lonedo, and the Palace of the Signory Co [...]to Alessandro, and Girolamo Godi, built at excessive expence on those Craggy places, whereto ascended (though with much pains and some sweat) tis compared to the Mount of Virtue; for that having gained the Top, there is found what may restore one with such plenty and gentleness, that it may be said the Goddess Abondantia, there had emptied her Basket. The Architecture is most exact, the Pictures of excellent hands, the Prospects wonderfull, the Fountains Beautifull and the Cittrons and sweet Flowers for all seasons not despicable, but above all the affableness and Civilities with which the Padro [...]i treat all Srangers, is most to be admited.
Through the Gate Santo Croce, they travel to Trento, the Country [Page 47] whereto is bounded with a continued List of little Hills which afford most delitious Wines, till arrived at Schio, where they mount on very cragged waies.
Schio is a principal Town, Seated at the feet of those Mountaines, at 15. miles distance from the City, filled with Merchandize and modities; it conteins five thousand Souls, a People neat and civil as well as Warlike. It gave birth to Giovan Paolo Mamfrone, who from a private Souldier arose to the chiefest honors in Wars, and both he and his Son Giulio are not a little famed for their excellent Conduct and valour, in Histories.
Through the same Gate taking the Strada militare, at ten miles Journey, presents it self Tiene, a noble Town, in a most pleasing scite, and not a little beautified by the Palace, of the Count Francesco Porta, which though built after the antient Architecture is nevertheless full of Majesty: beautified with springs of running water, Labyrinths, spacious Gardens, Citron and Orange Trees, and an Ayr pure and sweet, even to ravishing admiration.
Two mile further, upon the raised Hillock of Carè, is lately erected the Romitorio, by the Charity and free gifts of the Peaseants of Romiti Camladolensi, whose situation with their quotidian industry and labour, must soon render the place such, and so beautifull, that it may dispute the Palm with the chief houses of Religion.
From Piovene a large Town coasting the Monte summanno and the Torrent of Astice, by the confines of Furni, one arrives at Trento, by a very ill way, only capable of Horses: at 28 miles end. Along the Astico, (where they take red Trouts,) may be seen those Edifices, wherein is mrde writing paper, the Furnaces and Forges for Iron, and the sawes which being drove by the Waters, saw that Timber and reduce it to forms, which in great abundance grows on these Mountains, which also serve for the feeding their Flocks and Herds.
The Summano is famed for its rare simples, and for the Temple of Mary the Virgin, which (according to common belief) was heretofore dedicated to the God Summano, which Idol being destroyed by Saint Prosdocimo, the Temple was consecrated to the Mother of God. Some yeers since was found there a most antique Stone engraven with Roman Letters, which by the Learned is intepreted thus. Palemon Vicentinus Latinae Linguae Lumen. And gives confidence that Palemon was buried there, which Rhemio Palemon the Vicentine, flourished in the time of Augustus, in Grammar and Rhetorick, when those professions, were in much more esteem than at this day, the very Emperours in those dayes not disdaining to assist therein.
From Piovene you ascend to the Sette Communi, which are seven Villages filled with a great number of most fierce People dwelling on those Mountains, whom one would think created by Nature for a Parapet to the Vicentines, against the incursions of the Germans, Their Language is so strange, that though it approach the German as much as it can, yet the sharpness of their pronunciation, renders it unintelligible even to the Germans; some think they were the Reliques of the Gothes: They enjoy many exemptions for their fidelity to their Prince and the City.
Maximilian, the Emperour, in February 1508. attempted by this [Page 48] part to surprise Vice [...] with a flying Army descending from Trento, but the noise thereof spread, and the Peaseants raised, by Girolamo, and Christofero Capra, with others of their Family in Piedment, who having possessed themselves of the narrow passes of Asiago, and the F [...]rni with five hundred Souldiers of their party opposed his Army, compelling them with much slaughter to a dishonourable retreat: Their Readiness and Valour in which action was greatly acknowleged by the Venetian Senate,
In Sum, All its Territories are most beautifull, the Hills contending with the Valleys, for fertility and goodness: The wines (there growing in great Plenty) are esteemed without compare the best of all these Countreys, which occasioned the Proverb, Vin Vicentin, &c. with that variety of Colour and Tast (a rare thing) that both Winter and Summer, the most delicate Palate may meet its full satisfaction: There being Wine sweet and sharp, which please and cut, Aromatick, and Fragrant, Stomachal and brisk, with a hundred other real differences, all most digestible healthfull and gratefull to the Palate. It produceth Corn of all sorts, Pears, Apples, and all other Fruits for every Moneth in great abundance.
The Peasants have such infinite numbers of Calves and Kids that they supply half Venice, whither the conveniency of Water and cariage invites them to vent the superfluities thereof, as also their admirable Venison, Partridges, Pheasants, God wits, Quailes, and Quoists; and although their Fining is not equal to their Fouling, yet they want not, either red or white Trouts, Lampreys or other Stonefish, besides what certain Lakes afford of excellent sorts.
They much inrich themselves by the Craft there much used, as well within, as without the City, of making Cotton Clothes, which are esteemed no loss for their goodness than whiteness.
They have likewise great quantities of Silk-worms, and therefore tis that their Countrey is so well planted with Mulbery-Trees whereof the Wo [...]s feed, and thereof they extract at least 500000. Crowns a yeer, distributing them to all Merchants that resort thither for them, which much adds to their Riches; here also they fetch Fullers Earth for many uses into several Countreys, as also the Sand, wherewith at Venice they pollish their Looking Glasses.
Trento affords them some mines of Silver, and Iron, but much Stone for all sorts of Structures, some whereof for their hardnese are compared to the Istrian Stone, and others for their fineness to the Marble of Carrara.
The conveniences of Tymber, Stone, Sand, and unslacked Lime, considered with their active and ingenuous Natures, together with the laboriousness of the Peasants, and the beauty and variety of Sites, is that which nourisheth so much the Art and discipline in their Workmen of the Architecture of [...].
Whence Botero deservedly accounts this Province for one of the four most delitious and rich Provinces of Italy. Its Ayr being so pure and healthfull, that they reach great Ages, besides that this Cli [...]t in all Ages hath produced Men eminent, no less or Learning than Ar [...]s, as appears in the Histories, and enclines the ordinary sort to a certain Spriteness and aptness to all occupations and exercises.
[Page 49]In its Territory, they number one hundred and three score thousand Souls: which added to them of the City, amounts to two hundred thousand, dispersed into 250. Towns and Villages, which are governed by two Podesta'es, and eleven Vicariats, Noble Venetians, and Noble Vicentines, whose Jurisdictions, are limited to civil matters, only: Criminal Causes being wholly reserved to the Consulary.
The Prince draws from Vicenza, eighty thousand Duckats annually without the least charge; and makes the Province to maintain three thousand select, and well disciplined Foot, under four Captains, who alwaies reside at their several Quarters, and the City one thousand Muske [...]teers: Also for the urgent necessity of War, they have made a new calculation of such persons as are fit to bear Arms from 18 yeers old to 20. and they have thereupon enrolled in a Book the names of 16000. flourishing brave Youths: Its Territory, is one hundred and fifty miles in circumference.
Vicenza is distant from Padoua 18. miles, from Venice 43. from Verona, 30. from Mantoua, 50. from Trent, 44. from Treviso, 33.
Thus for a conclusion, we may with truth affirm, that reflecting on their Political State, the strength of the City, which consists not so much in the circuit of the Walls, as the Liberty and amplitude of its Territory, Their riches and the number, Valour, and gallantry, of their People: Vicenza will find few Cities equal, and consequently will find no small esteem from a wise Prince.
VERONA The Antient.
TIs the Vulgar Criticism on this name, that syllabilzed, It comprehends the three first syllables of the three head Cities of Italy Ve Venetia, Ro Roma, Na Napoli, others more stricty interpret that whatecer may be found in those three Cities abounds there. Verona is reckoned amongst the most Noble Cities of Italy: Built long since by the Toscanes, & was one of the twelve, by them cmōanded on this side the Apenines, The Galli Cenomani peopled it having beat out the Toscanes. Its name (as some other say) was taken from an antient Noble Family of the Toscanes called Vera. It is seated near the Mountains towards the South, as twere in a plain, and is in form little less than a Square: In the time of Augustus Caesar, it was much larger, as many inducements make us believe, among others, That tis written they used to set forth 50000 Souldiers, which appears no great wonder since Cornelius Tacitus called Ostilia, a Burrough thereof, though now distant from it 30. miles, we may thence conclude, they numbred 200000. Souls, Martial calls her great, and Strabo most great. Its situation is very strong by Nature, yet the Venetians have made it now accounted impregnable, through the many wonderfull Fortifications of Bastions, Bulwarks, Castles, Towers, Counterscarpes, added by them, and the deep and large Dykes, kept full by the River Adice.
It hath one Fort in the Plain Country near the River, and two in the Mountains, the one named San Felice the other a more modern, called San Angelo: the which guards the Plain, and aptly repels the furious assaults of any Enemies. It hath five Gates no less strong [Page 50] then adorned with Sculptures, Collumns, Statues, and other fair Marbles. Besides, in the City are many things from whence may be gathered. That it hath been a most antient and Noble City: Under the Castle of San Pietro, they yet shew the great foundations of a Theatre with the entire doors of the Scene, as also the Signal of that place which was antiently deputed for the Naval Fights, in that place, where now is the Orchards of the Fathers Dominicans. In the Piazza de [...], stands the most antique and great Fabrick, the Amphitheatre built of square Marble Stones, called by the Veronei the Arena. The outward wall, whereof had four fair Rows of Pillars Arches and Windows, composed of four forts of Architecture, that is to say, one Dorick, one Ionick, one Corinthian, and one mixed with good order, being a Structure not less fair than high, as may be credited from that little part which yet is a foot. The Barbarous who sacked Italy, disrobed it of all the Marble Stones and Ornaments of the exteriour circuit, even to the foundations wherewith to adorn their other Structures leaving that so Noble work, deprived of all its Majesty; howbeit from those small reliques remaining, one may take a judgement of the grandure and quality of the rest, as easily, as from the nails may be guessed what creature a Lyon is, because the Reason and art of Architecture, and circular proportions make it easily comprehended; that every one of the said Orders or degrees of the exteriour Wall, had seventy two parts or as one would say, Arches and as many Pillars; and from the void places in the third order, which was the Corinthian, one may know that there were 144. Statues between the Arches, and Pillars; Being entred at the Porches, which within encompass the whole Fabrick in three orders, one would wonder at the great number of Stayrs Steps & waies, which on every side were used by the Spectators to go in and out without disturbance. Who might altogether (although a great multitude) mount and descend with great facility and no trouble by those numberless ways In the midst is the Arena, and tis a noble sight to behold that spatious plain of an Oveal form, 34 perches long, and 22½ broad, environed with 42. Seats, which ly gradati [...], one above the other, still extending to the Top, and were capable of 23000. Persons, which might sit there commodiously; under which Seats are the said Steps and wayes. The inward part also was despoiled by the barbarous of all its Marble Seats, though at present the Citizens of Verona, at their proper expence have restored that, and adorned it as formerly, and at certain times use to shew to the people Games, and huntings, after the Antient custom. We find not in authentique Histories who founded this Noble Fabrick, but Torello Saraino, a Venetian, and a most learned man, endeavours to prove by many arguments, that the Theatre, and the Arena, were built under Caesar Augustus, one whereof is that we evidently find in Suetonius Augustus, constituted many new Colonies through Italy, and fought to enrich and adorn many of the old, to which opinion adds, saith a certain Chronicle (as saies Torello) wherein tis written that the Arena was built in the twenty second yeer of the Empire of that Augustus; with whom Ciriaco [...] disagrees but little, who in his Itinerary of Selavonia collects many antiquities of Italy, and says that the Arena of Verona, called by him [Page] the Laberinth, was built in the 3 [...]th. yeer of the Empire of Augustus. But Magino the most excellent and celebrious Mathematician writes much otherwise, for in his description of the Marquisate of Treeves, under Tolemeo, fpeaking of Verona, he saith, that that Amfitheatre which was built by L. V. Flaminius in Anno. 53. After the building of Rome, &c. But let every one believe hereof as he pleaseth, tis sufficient that the Grandezza, the magnificencie, and nobleness of the work gives to understand, that it was erected in the most flourishing days of the Roman Empire, the Majesty, and greatness, whereof it much represents.
Tis known that a little distant thence was the place where the Sword players exercised, and to this day are to be seen, the footsteps of the Arch Triumphal erected in honour of C. Marius. for his victory over the Cimbrians, in the Territories of Verona, some part of the prospect or Front of the antient Piazza, yet remaining, shews it to have been of excellent Architecture, Tis said that there was the Via Emilia, the Emilian Way, which lead to Rimeni, Piacenza, Verona, and to Aquilegia, where appears an Arch of Marble, Dedicated to Jupiter, who also had a Temple on the Hill, the foundations whereof are now extant ruinated by time, but adorned with carved Hierogloficks.
In the Via Emilia, were many four squared Arches of Marble, three whereof, we now behold, one of which was built by Vetruvius and shews 'twas framed with true rules of Architecture. In Verona are many other Signes, of Venerable Antiquity, as great Ruins of her Houses, with many Chambers adorned with figures, composed of several pieces of Stones, of Temples, of Arches, Triumphals, Palaces, Aquiducts, Collumns, Statues, Epitaphs, Medals, of Gold and Silver, Urns and the like, which by the firing that Attila King of the Hunns, put to it, were lost and destroyed: the aPvements, in some places being thereby become twenty foot under ground. This City, hath many sumptuous Palaces, and among them the Council house, or Chamber of Justice is the chief, of a square form, with 4. Halls, and one square low Court, wherein there is so much room, that they therein do Justice, and hold Council at the same time, comodiously: upon the roof whereof stand exposed to the ayr the Statues of Cornelius, Nepos, Emilius, Marcus, old Poets, of Pliny the natural Historian, and Vetruvius the Architecture, and in a very high Arch, the Statue of Hieronimo Facastrao, all which men graced their Mother Verona by their singular virtues.
Besides which, there are two Palaces for the Governours and many others eminent enough of particular Veronians. They praise also the great Bell, which is in the high Turret, The Piazza frequented by the Merchants; the Burrough where they teazlle wash and pr [...]ss Clothes, and the Field called Campo Martio, where they exercise the Souldiery. There are also other Piazzaes for the Markets, and to walk in, one for the Nobility, and another for the Marchants: In the bigger whereof stands a Stately Fountain with a Statue representing Verona, with a Kingly Diadem at her Feet.
The most beautifull River Adice runs by Verona, which comes just from the Alpes of Trint▪ and sends two arms through the Streets of the City for its greater conveniency, by which River they convey to [Page 52] Verona divers Merchandices from Germany and Venice. There are many Mills within and without the City, and other Edifices for the Mecanicks. They have four Bridges over the Adice, all erected with excellent artifice and beauty, one whereof hath two spatious Arches, which give a Noble prospect, Europe scarce affording any more polite and truer built.
This City abounds with all things necessary. Their fruits are all delicious, but the Figs Bardolini exceed all others. It hath Fish very sweet from the Lake Garda, Good Meat from the excellent Pasture, exquisite Wines from the Hills, good Corn from the Vales, and good health from the Ayr, though somewhat piercing. The Merchandize of Cloth and Silk, mantains above 20000. Handicraftsmen.
Verona was under the Etrurians, the Euganei, the Heneti, the French and the Romans, with whom it was confederated and had voices in the ballottinges of Rome. The Romans never sent a Colony into Verona, but it was ascribed to the Tribu Poblilia, and the Veronians have had many Magistrates in Rome. Heretofore 4. Deputies had the clear and mixt government of this City, as the Roman Consuls, which 4. were created by the Citizens, together with the other Magistrates: whereof they yet retein some shadow by having Consuls, the wise men, the Counsel of twelve, the hundred and twenty, and the Prefect of the Merchants. Afterwards the Roman Empire declining, Verona became under the Command of certain barbarous Tyrants, but they being driven out by the Ostragoths and they by the Longobards who were Lords of it 200. yeers, it was finally freed from their Signory and fell into the power of the successors of Charles the great, that is of Pipin and Berengarius, and others who there made the Seat of their Empire, as Albano King of the Longobardi, had done formerly.
In the Reign of Ottone the First, it again recovered its Liberty; but discords arising among the Citizens, it was opprest by the Tyranny of Ezzelino, and the Scaligiri, its own Citizens, who Lorded it for 200. yeers, Last of all being also opprest by others, it voluntarily rendred it self to the power of the Venetians who in those daies, were esteemed the Justest of Lords. It was converted to the Christian Faith by Euperius, commissionated to preach there from Saint Peetre. It had thirty six Bishops Saints, with S. Zenone its Protector, to whom Pipin Son of Charles the great, dedicated a Church with twelve pounds of gold for yeerly revenue. The greater Church, is a most noble one, and rich with a Chapter of Canons of much authority. In the Church of S. Anastassia is a fayr Chapel of Giano Fresco a Genouai Captain, filled with Marble Statues and his own effigies.
The people of Verona are pious, and have alwaies had good Bishops, in particular lately Augustin Falerio a most upright Prelate and illustrious Cardinal as he was ever accounted by the most holy Fathers and Docters of the Chvrch. Nor will we forget Nicolo Hormanetto Bishop of Padoua, nor Giberto, who was the reformer of many Churches, the first of whom, brought into that Province Carlo Borromeo Doctor, and Head of all the holy men, and the most shining Star of the College of Cardinals. Nor that the Churches of Verona (before the Conncel of Trent) were reformed into that order they still observe [Page 53] They give divine honors to Lucius the third Pope, who going to Verona, there to call a Council, passed into a better Life, and was there interred in the great Church; whence in Verona was created Urban the third his Successor.
Verona is well peopled, and hath many noble Families: and hath produced signal Men in all exercises. It had some Consuls in Rome: It hath had many holy men and many blessed, among which is famous San Pietro the Martyr, of the Preaching order, buried in Milan, born in the Street of S. Stefano in Verona, where at present may be seen the house of his Nativity. The Veronians have sharp wits, and are much inclined to Learning, which hath occasioned that it in every Age hath brought forth Men of excellent esteem in all sciences. They were Veronians that have their five Statues set upon the publick Palace: So also was the learned Scaliger, for whose sake and his Family ( i Signori della Scala) is erected in the heart of the City a Stately Marble Tomb, encompassed with Iron work, resembling a Ladder, which that name implies. It hath afforded some Women too, so well read in the Greek and Latin tongue, and the Sciences, that they have held disputes with many learned Men, among others Isotta Nogarola was glorious, it hath one Porphyre Tomb of a King of the Goths. In summ, Verona possesseth all those things that may render a Citty perfect, and its Citizens happy: So that tis no wonder that many Emperors (induced by the beauty of the place) spent some Moneths of the yeer there, as we read in the codicils of Justinian, and Theodosius, and that Alboino, first King of the Longobards, and Pepin Son of Charls the Great, and Berengarius, with other Kings; of Italy, selected it for their own Residences; and to the end no ornament might be wanting, instituted an Academy for good Letters, and Study of humanity in the house of the Signori Bevilacque, whereof Cota a good Poet of our times saies well thus. ‘Verona, qui te viderit, & non amarit protinus amore perditissimo, is credo se ipsum non amat, caretque amandi sensibus; & tollit omnes gratias.’
The Territory of VERONA.
THe Territory of Verona, in our times is about 80. Miles large, from the Confines of Torbolo, a Castle of Trent, towards the South to the Polesene of Rovigo, and from the Eastern part from the confines of Vicentia to them of Brescia, which are towards the North 46. Miles, and 15. miles towards South-East, where it confines with the Padouan, tis 30. miles long, a fertile plain. towards the Northwest, it hath 25. miles of mountainous Countrey: Towards South and by East, thirty Mils to the Ferrarian or Mantouan confines, of most fertile Countreys, being no less pleasant than fruitfull of whatever can be desired. It hath Mountains, Hills, Woods, diverse navigable Rivers, clear fountains, oyl, good Corn, good Wine, Hemp, and great plenty of Fruit, and Trees bearing Apples, more sweet, fresh, and of longer keeping than any other Country: It hath Fowl, and Flesh of all sorts, divers sorts of Stone, and Chalk, Villages [Page 54] with fair Fabricks, and foundations of antient Towers: In sum it may well be called as fair and happy a Territory as any other, and more than some are.
Going out of the Gate Vescovato, turning on the left hand, after having met with many fruitfull Hills, and the ruins of an antient Castle, you come to the Burrough S. Michael, which hath a fair St. Michael. Church dedicated to the blessed Virgin, wherein they have seen many miricles, and many Paper Mills, being 5. miles from Verona, then following the way a little on the right hand, one findes the Baths, helpfull for the Sterility of Women, and to refresh the Reyns, where the Learned Calderino was born, who after lived in Rome.
Tis reported, that there stood an antient Castle, and that the Church of Saint Matthew the Apostle, was a Temple of Juno. Opposite whereto upon a Hill is seen, il Castllo Soave, built in a lovely site by the Scaligeri; a little forwarder is Monte Forte, a Town belonging to the Veronian Bishoprick, upon the very confines, as on the other Monte forte. side on the confines is the Burrough Saint Boniface. On that part which looks towards the North-East, are some plains well inhabited. That part looking towards the South, begins from the Porta Nova, and goes to Lonigo a Cologna, wherein is nothing remarkable, more than its fertility, and the head of the River Tartaro; and on that side towards Mantoua, 17. miles distant from Verona, is the Island Scala, so well replenished with people and goods, that it hath in some Scala. sort the face of a City.
Towards the West, before Verona, lies a Stony untild Champion or Downs, but famous for divers deeds of Arms there, performed by great Captains; Tis said, that Sabino Giuliano, who would have gotten the Empire, was there by Carino Cesare overthrown and flain, that Odouacro King of the Herlui, and Turcillingi, having by violence obteyned the Kingdome of Italy, forcing out Augustolo, and therein tyranized some yeers, was in this place discomfited in a Battel of three days, by Theodorick King of the Ostrogoths; That Lamberto Son of Guidon King of Spoleto, was there overcome with 14000. Hungarian Souldiers by Berengarius. That some yeers after, by Gugone Arelatense, Arnoldo Captain of Baviera, with a potent Army of Germans, was there cut in pieces, whom the Veronians first called into Italy for King against Hugone, and had received into their City as victorious and triumphant. That there likeness was overcome and deprived of his Kingdom the second Berengarius by Rodolfus Borgondus; and that in antient times in that place were fought many Battels (of no less consequence than obaining or losing of the Kingdom of Italy) with various success. But as to what Biondo saith, that in that Down C. Marius, vanquished the Germans and the Cimbrians, who made a furious incursion into Italy, 'tis very uncertain, because Historians much differ in describing the place where that memorable Act was performed.
Thence one may go to Villa Franca and Sanzeno, rich Villages confines to the Mantoua Territories, but if from those Downs one take Sanzen. towards the South, having passed many Villages, you arrive at Peschiero a strong Castle, but of ill Ayr, 14. miles from Verona, seated Peschiero. on the Banks of the Lake Garda, where the River Menzo hath its source, and on the left side of the Lake five miles further off (most [Page 55] ill way) stands Rivoltella, and two miles onward Desensano, the confines Desensano of Verona.
On that part of Verona, towards the North-west, are many Hills placed in the form of a Theatre, where they are stocked with fertile Vineyards; and so much adorned with beautifull Palaces and Gardens, that the prospect at a distance much pleaseth; within these Hils is the Vale Paltena, inhabited and Fertil, and following the plain, appear Paltena. many and stately Palaces, on the banks of the Adice, which runs through that Campagna.
At 10. miles distance from Verona upon the ascent of certain little Hills, may be beheld the Valley Pulicella, replenish't with many Pulicella. Castles & great Towns, behind which begin the Mountains of Trento, they say that in the said Valley, there are two teats of Stone cut with a Chizel, which constantly distill a water, wherewith if a Woman having lost her Milk bath her Nipples, it will return in great abundance. Returning to Verona, by the Adice, on one fide is the foot of the Mountain Baldo, and many Castles and Burroughs: On the other fide a plain to Peschiera, and there begin the Mountains which are on the right hand-shore of the Lake: there stands Bardolino, where those Bardolino. incomparable Figs grow, whereof Soliman Emperor of the Turks delighted Gardo. to discourse of, with the Christian slaves, as also, Gardo, which gives name to the Lake, and many other Castles: In this place is to be admired, the vastness of the Venetians Minds, who conveyed over those rough and mountainous places, both Galleys and Ships armed in all particulars, to fight in the Lake with Filippo Visconse Captain of the Milanesians, Mount Baldo, whereof somewhat is spoken Caldo. formerly, ought here to be set before all the Mounts of Italy, being 30. miles in circumference, affording excellent and rare plants, and some veins of Copper.
The Lake GARDA.
ANtiently the Castle Benaco, gave name to this Lake, where now is Tusculano, but at present it takes name from Gardo aforenamed. This Lake from Peschiera, which lies on the South of it, is 35. miles long towards the North, and from Salo, on the West shore to Garda or Lacice on the East, is 14. miles broad: It is very tempestuous, and many times raises waves as high as Mountains, which at certain seasons of the yeer, makes it dangerous to navigate, and this they believe proceeds from the enclosure of the winds by the Mountains, hindring by their surrounding its issuing out, Wherefore Virgil saies,
This Lake affords well-relisht fish, in great plenty, but chiefly Trouts, Carps, and Eels, whereof Pliny speaks at large. Eight miles from Peschiera, runs a neck of Land in to the Lake, two miles long, which seems to divide the Lake. Here antiently was Sirmione which gave birth to Catullus the Poet, but now remains nothing but a small Castle, though abounding with all delitiousness. On the same side Sirmione. is Rivoltella, and Disensano, a principal Market Town of those parts, [Page 56] not defective in any thing. But on the other shore there are many fair Castles, among others Salò & Prato di Fame, where the Bishops of Trent, Verona, and Brescia, may each (standing in his own Diocess) shake hands. The Country there is pleasant, bearing Olivs, Figs, Pomegranates, Lemons, Citrons, and other fruitfull Trees, which there flourish much, by having the River & Lake on one side, and the Mountains on the other, defending it from blasting winds, and affording the reflex of the Sun all day, from its rise to the setting, which renders it one of the beautifullest places of Italy. The number of the People inhabiting this Valley and Lake of Garda, shall be given in the Description of the Valleys.
BRESCIA.
BRescia by the Romans Brixia, is seated 20 miles from Disensano, which a direct Road leads unto, but something Stoney. Some will have it called Brescia from Britein, which in the Language of the Galli Senones (the restorers of this City) signifie rejoycing Trees, as if the quantity of Fruits wherewith they are yeerly hung, made them rejoyce. Livie and other grave Authors write, that Brescia was built by the Galli Senones, in that age when the Kings commanded in Rome, and that the Romans made themselves Masters thereof, after they had conquered all Lombardy. They further say, that it alwaies kept inviolable Faith with the Roman People, and particularly in that calamitous time, when Hannibal destroyed their Armies. Besides they say, that it was reduced into a Colony of the Romans, after the associated Warr, together with Verona, and the other Cities, on that fide the Po, by Cn. Pompeius Strabo, Father of Pompey the Great, and a little time after Caesar reckoned the Brescians in the number of the Roman Citizens; under whose Empire it continued till its Majesty was at the height, when it was no less rich than potent, as may easily be conjectured from the many antient Marble Stones, and Statues, with the inscriptions and Epitaphs of illustrious Persons, and of divers famous deeds thereon which ly dispersed in the City and up and down its Territory.
Tis seated in a plain (at the foot of certain Hills) more long than broad; although but three miles in circuit, yet well replenished with dwellings and inhabitants. Its vicinity to the Hills beautifies it with many Fountains, a commodity which many Cities of Lombardi want. In it are many Piazzaes, the greatest whereof is that where the publick Palace is erected; which for its fairness, may be accounted one of the Noblest Edifices of Italy. Under which Palace are fair Porches, with shops affording well tempered Belly pieces of Armour, Swords, Muskets, and other military Arms, which hath nominated it Brescia the Armed: other shops are no less furnished with the finest Linnen cloth, a Commodity by which these Citizens acquire great Riches. A small River called Garcia passeth thorow the City, which at its issuing forth is artificially drawn on this and that side to irrigate their Fields. It hath five Porrs or Gates, and one impregnable Castle, built with Stone upon a Hill. The Torre de Pallada is of rare Tuscan work, and therein is the Great Bell of the City. It heretofore suffered much calamity through the Factions [Page 57] and enmity of its Citizens, whose fury was such that proscription and Death to their Enemies, without fyring and destroying their Houses and Goods, but trivally appeased: Which caused it to change in 28. yeers its Soveraign seven times, in the time of Lewis the third, and Otto Emperors, Its Citizens being much addicted to Arms. Tis a most horrible thing to read the History of Capriole, o [...] those calamitous times, representing the great slaughters of the Citizens, with their Proscriptions and Banishments, the sacking, burning, and ruining, of their Habitations, and the desolation of the City; much resembling the times and Actions of Marius, and Scilla and the Triumviraie. At this day tis governed by the Venetians with great peace, and such increase of Riches, that its former smart is scarce perceptible. It received the light of the Christian Faith by Domo the preaching of Sant Apollinare, Bishop of Ravenna, in the yeer of our Lord, 119. It hath some fayr Churches, among them the Domo, (whose Bishop with a good Revenue hath the Tide of Duke, Marquiss, and Count) where a Skie-coloured Cross called Oro Fiamma, is much reverenced by the People, who indubitably beleeve it to be the same which appeared to Constantine the Emperour fighting against Maxentius, The Motto, in hoc signo Vinces.
Next is the Church of Santa Giulia the Martyr, built by Desiderius, Santa Juliia King of the Longobards, in the yeer 735. adorned with rich Vests and pretious vessels, and honoured with the bodies of many Saints, together with those of Ansilperga, the Sister, and Hermingarda the Daughter, of that King: which ly in its noble Monastery: wherein two daughters of Lotario the first Emperor, one sister of Charles the the third, one Daughter of Berengarus the Userper of the Empire, with many other Virgins of Royal blood, have spent their days in the [...]ervice of God, under the Orders of Saint Benedict.
Brescia is well replenished with People, and among them with many noble and illustrious Families, as the Gambari, the Martinengi, the Magi, the Avogradi, Averoldi, Luzaghi, Emilii and others. It hath given Birth to many Saints, of whom they name only San Giovita and Faustino, who suffered Martyrdom for the Faith of Christ, on the Walls towards Verona, whereof at this day appear some Marks of it. It hath had thirty Bishops canonized for Saints: Its Territory is so large, spatious, and long, that tis believed, the Bishop thereof hath the Cure of near Eight Hundred Thousand Souls: It abounds with all things necessary for human Sustenance, and the People are reputed of a quick-witted and elegant Ingennity: whereof an elegant Poet writes.
The Territory of BRESCIA.
THe Bresciau Territory, is one hundred miles broad, begining from Mosa 15. miles distant from Mantoua, and ending at Dialengo at the top of Alcamonica, and 50. miles long, extending from Limona on the Lake Garda to the Orzi Novi, the Countrey conteyning 450. Towns, Villages, and Castles well peopled, and affording [Page 58] all sorts of Corn, Grain, Wine, Oyl, and Fruite: Towards the East, on the Road leading to Verona, on the right hand, stand G [...]di, Manerbio, Calvesano; Calcina to, on the left, the Mounta [...]ns, Bridigolo, Lonato. Padengo▪ and the Lake, with the fair Town of Lonato▪ [...]5. miles off [...]rescia. Towards the South by the way of Cremona, a [...] seen Virola, Asola and Asola, a strong Castle, Issuing sorth the Gate San Nazario, towards the VVest, on the right lies Priviato, on the left, Quintiano, a noble Castle. This is the way of the Orzi Novi, where stands a strong Castle 20. miles from Brescia, built in Anno 1134. Here they vant much of the excellency of their Linnen Cloth, near which passeth the River Oglio, which terminates the Venetians dominions. And Oglio. going out of the Gates. Giovanni, you meet the Torrent M [...]la, Coraio a rich Country, and Reato the most populous Town of the Brescian Reato Territories; a little farther a most fertile plain, beautified with many Castles, from the dwelling of the French there in tis called [...], but before you can reach Palazzolo, must be passed the Riv [...] [...], over a stately Bridge, from whence they enter the Territories of [...].
The BRESCIAN Valleys
THis City hath three principal Valleys, the first called Valcamonica, Valcamonica lies towards the VVest, and is bigger than both the other; extending it self 50. miles towards the North, is continued with surrounding Hills, among which, is a running current yeelding good Trouts, which River enters at the head of the [...]ake Isseo, running Isseo through it, and out of it with the same name, and passing through the Play [...], many A [...]ms and Branches are drawn from it, to overflow the fields, whereby they become most productive of Grass, Hay, Corn, &c. It hath some minerals of Iron and Copper, Its chief Brenna. Town is Brenna; towards the end, this vale divides it self into two parts, one whereof exte [...]s to the County of Tirol [...], the other reaches the valley Tellina.
The second is the Vale Troppia, which takes its commencement 6. Troppia. miles off the City, and extends it self 20. miles long, to the North, circumscribed with Mountains, and washed with the River M [...]la. In some places tis narrow, and [...]is most [...] nearest the City: wherein 10. miles off the City, is the rich and Noble Castle and Town Cardone Cardone, much talked off, for the good Harquebuses there made: It affords Iron Mine, and that gives cause of the Iron works there built.
The last is the Vale del Sole 22. miles long, conjoyned with the Del Sole other, through which passeth the River Chiese, which issues from the Lake Iseo, washing it for 10. miles space, affording good Fish, especially Trouts; here also are some Iron works. This Vale divides it self into many Branches, by many [...] t [...]; and in many places, is well and neatly planted with Vines and fruitfull Trees: These two last Vales are in the power of the Venetians, and produce So [...]ldiers of great gallantry. The whole Brescian Territory affords neer 800000. Souls, besides what the City it self contains.
The first and shortest way from BRESCIA to MILAN.
Going out of Brescia by the gate San Giov [...]nni for Milan, are seen [...]caglio Pontoi, so called from the similitude of Ponto Oglio, the River which washes that Castle Walls: Then Martinengo, Triviglio, and Cassano, much famed for the mortal stroke there received by Ezzelino the Tyrant of Padoua, from the Romans; on the right hand the Campagna Giare di Adda, then the Castle Caravaggio, head of all the Giara Caravaggio di Adda, strong by site and Art, rich and abounding. Here in the yeer 1422. they fable an appearance of the blessed Virgin, where she reposed, they dugg a Well, whose Waters are good for all infirmities, Cassina there also, they erected a most stately Church. At Cassano, you repass the River Adda, then travaling 10. miles, arrive at Cassina, the white Hostery, then 10. more to Milan, this way from Brecia to Milan, is accounted 50. miles long.
The second Voyage, but longer, from BRESCIA to MILAN.
THis way is more straight and long, than the other, which they take out of the Gate San Nazario, and at 20. miles end arrive at the Orzi Novi, whence passing the River Oglio, they come to the most noble Castle Soncino, where in Winter time they make a certain pleasant Soncino Bread with Almonds, they also make Latten Candlesticks, the Inhabitants are both Civil and courteous. This Castle is endowed with the Title of a Marquisate, and belongs to the State of Milan, over the Gate whereof are set the Arms of Spain. In Soncino, the Tyrant of Padeua, Ezzelino, would needs dye, born of Saxon blood, and 70. yeers old, who having received a mortal wound in one Knee, from the Army in Cassano, would not permit them to dress the wound, nor apply any remedy, where he unhappily and Meritoriously abandoned this Life; five miles farther lies Romanengo, and so much more far Crema, which on the East is washed by the River Serio. This Crema was antiently one of the four principal Castles of Italy, Crema but is at present a City, and an Episcopal Seat, tis placed in an ample plain, fortified with Rampants and Ovals, well enriched, full of civil People, replenisht with Houses, abounding with human necessaries, and under the Government of the Venetians. The Domo, the Tower, the Piazza, and the Palace of the Podesta, are worth a visit. The Podestà which the Venetians commissionate thither, governs 46. other places; here the women get well by whitening sowing thread, and weaving of Linnen Cloth. Thence (passing the River Torno) 10. miles farther is Lodi (Laus Pomponia by the [...]omans) Lodi [Page 60] a great City on the side of the River Ada, famous for the Cheese made there not much inferiour to the Parmisen; then Malignano, a Castle honoured with the Title of Marquisate of the Noble Family of the Medici at Milan, and so to Milan, this way is 62. miles long. All which way is like a Garden, the high-ways streight, & Level on both sides whereof, run chanels of Water, on each side of which are planted Trees, up which run their Vines, and the Fields are some Meadows, and the rest yeeld plenty of Corn.
The third Journey from BRESCIA to MILAN by the way of BERGAMO.
PArting from Brescia by the Gate San Giovanni, passing the Torrent Mela, are seen the Castles Cacaglio, and Palazzuolo afore named, and on the other side of the River Oglio, the Village Malpaga, built in a fayr plain by Bartolemeo Coleone of Bergamo, who Malpaga there ended his days, at 76. yeers of Age, and was buried in Bergamo. In honour of whome for having been the most valiant and faithfull Captain of the Venetian Army, is erected his Statue on Horseback gilt all over, with a Marble Basis, before the Church San Giovanni, and Paolo in Venice. On the left hand lies Orgiano and S. Maria of Basella a Church with a fayr monastery for preaching Fryers; whence passing a Noble Bridge over the River Serio, you arrive at Bergamo 30. miles from Brescia.
BERGAMO.
THe City of Bergamo, is so antient that its founders are not known, yet some avert they were the Orobii which in greek signifies Inhabitants of the Mountains. Giovanni Annio of Viterba with Giovanno Chrisostomo Zancho, much labour to demonstrate and prove the Antiquity of Bergamo, and wherefore so named, by many etimologies of the word, as well in Greek, as in Hebrew, and in the end conclude it to be thus called in Hebrew, which in Latin sounds, Inonditorum clypeata civitas, vel Gallorum Regia Urbs, quae a Graecis Archipolis, a recentioribus autem Latinis tum princeps, tum Ducalis Civitas appellari solet. And a little further say. Igitur Bergomum Regalem ve terum Gallorum urbem extitisse, nomen ipsum manifestissime docet.
Others are of opinion, that [...]was first built by the Tuscans, and afterwards restored and enlarged by the Galli Cenomani: Its Country towards the East is plain, sertile, and productive of Fruit. On the North and VVest, rugged, Mountainous, and barren. Tis rendred a very strong City, by those thick walls which inviron it, and those bulwarks, and other engins of War, which for its detence against Enemies the Venetians have erected. Tis small and seated on the side of the Mountains. It hath two Burroughs conjoyned with it, where they have raised stately edifices as well for Divine worship as private Citizens habitations. In one of which is yeerly kept a Fayr which begins on the day of Saint Bartolemo, and continues for many [Page 61] days, whither the vast quantity of Merchandize invites as much People, as Italians, Germans, Grizons, and Switzers: The Ayr is most serene there, and its Territory produceth sweet wines, Oyl, and many pleasant fruits. In some places (for want of Land either fit for tillage or Vines) the people employ themselves in working Woollen and Linnen Clothes, which they afterwards carry into all parts of Italy. Their Language is very rustick, but that renders not the People so, who are civil and ingenuous, and no less disposed to Learning than Trade, whence it took the surname of Bergamo the witty.
It hath produced many noble Wits, who by their excellent virtues have added to its Lustre: Whereof were Alberico di Rosato, Doctor of Laws, and Ambrogio Calepino, whose works no ingenuous person neglects to have. Fryer Damiano, a convertite of the order of Preachers, was a man of so great Ingenuity (in cementing pieces of several woods together, with such artifice, that they have been often mistaken for Pictures drawn with a pencel) that his fellow hath not been known herein. Fryer Pagano of the same Order, gave excellent example of constancy at his death given him by the Hereticks. Hence also, have issued men of great Judgment and Counsel, to govern the Republick, particularly of the Family of Foresti, with many Cardinals, Prelates, and excellent Captains.
The first Advancer of the Christian Religion in this City, was Saint Barnabas, a Disciple of Christ, in the 25th. yeer of our Salvation; together with Anatolone the Greek, and Caio the Roman, giving it for Bishop Narino one of its Citizens; who having governed it with great sanctity of Life and Religion for thirty yeers, deceased, and was there interred: whom many holy Bishops from one to another have succeeded.
In the Domo of Bergamo, are 25. Bodies of Saints, kept with great devotion. Where near the high Altar stands the Sepulchre of Bartolomeo Coleone, a famous Captain, and Citizen of it, with his Effigies in Marble, which he caused to be cut for him by the Life, the Epitaph whereof follows. ‘Bartholomeus Colleonus de Andegania virtute immortalitatem adeptus, usque adeo in re militari fuit illustris, & non modo tunc viventium gloriam longè excesserit, sed etiam posteris spem enim citandi ademerit, saepius enim à diversis Principibus, ac deinceps ab Illustrissimo Veneto Senatu accepto Imperio, Tandem totius Christianorum exercitus sub Paulo Secundo Pont. Max. delectus fuit Imperator: Cujus acies quatuordecim annos, ab ejus obitu solo jam defuncti Imperatoris, tanquam vivi nomine militantis jussa, cujus alias contempserunt. Obiit Anno Domini 1475. quarto nonas Novembris.’
In the Church of Saint Agostino is the Tomb of Fryer Ambrogio Calepino, who with great diligence and industry, collected all the Latin words in a form approved by the gravest writers: whose works are known to all the World, being divulged where ever the Latine Tongue is spoken.
Bergamo, together with its Burroughs, contains a great number of [Page 62] Souls: Above it stands the Capella, or Chapel, a place strong by its site upon a high Mountain, and by the most impregnable Walls wherewith it was encompassed by Luchino Visconte Lord of Milano and Bergamo: but at this time tis wholly abandoned and half ruinated, being found by experience of little ayd to the City when need required: here at first was layed a foundation for a Monastery for the Order of S. Dominick, and a Chapel built, whence called Capello.
Bergamo was long time subject to the Roman Empire; after whose fall twas burnt by Attila; then it was yoaked to the Longobardi, who styled themselves Dukes thereof; then reduced under the power of Kings of Italy: and so continued till the daies of Filippo Turciano, who became Lord thereof Anno 1264. After it was Subjugated by Luchino the Viscount. Then Mastino della Scalla made himself Lord thereof. By whom some time after twas sold to Pandolfo Malatesta for thirty thousand Duckats of Gold. And after it had been some times occupied by the French, of its own accord it gave it self to the Venetians, under whom it peaceably reposeth to this day. If farther and more at large any one defires to be satisfied in the history of Bergamo, let him read the book entitled, La Vigna di Bergamo.
Serio runs close by Bergamo, deriving its source from those Mountains, Vale Serina. between which towards the North are 6 vales. The first is called La vale Seriana, from the River Serio's running through it, which is well peopled, who by Tolomeo are called Beccunni. The second is Vale Brombana, so named from its vicinity with the Banks of the River Brombana Brembo▪ each of which are extended for thirty miles long. The San Martino third is Vale di San Martino, 15. miles long. The fourrh, Vale di Calepio, Calepio Chiusontio Manca the fifth, Vale di Ohiusontio, the sixth, Val di Manca; in which between Towns, Villages, and Hamlets, are numbred 200. Inhabited places, of which the chief are Calepio, Lever de Chiusonto, and Vertua, where they make excellent Woollen Clothes. On this side the Territory of Bergamo extends it self 28. miles. Upon Calepio is the strong Castle Leuco, where a Bridge conjoyns both the Banks of Adda. On the West Bergamo hath the City of Como, Monza, and the Como Hills of Brianza, towards the East Brescia, and towards the South Crema with the above-described Places. Bergamo is accounted 32. miles from Milan, having on the right hand the Rivers Brembo which dischargeth it self into the Adda, further on, near the Adda is the well-fortified Castle of Trezzo, reared by Bernardo Viscount of Milan, Anno 1370. together with that artificial Bridge, which on the left hand over the Adda discovers it self with the abovenamed Places. At twelve miles distance from Bergamo stands Colonica a small Village, where imbarking you psss 20: miles in the Water and so arrive at Milan.
CREMA.
THe Relation of this City should have been placed between the narrations of Brescia and Bergamo, where in the second voyage from Brescia to Milan tis only briesly touched, but the Author having found himself tardy, in omitting an account of this esteemed one of the prime Cities of Lombardy, apollogizeth for his placing it here in the end of this Book, and promiseth a reformation in the next impress.
[Page 63]Being then in the City of Brescia, and going forth the Gate San Nazario, after twenty miles travel you arrive at Orzi Nuovi: and having past the River Oglio find the Castle Soncino: and sive miles more forwards meets Romanengo, and so many more the City Crema, which is situated in the East shore of the River Serio, by which tis deliciously washed; it lies in the Centre of fruitfull Lombardy, between five illustrious Cities, at thirty miles distance from each, which encompasse it like a Crown, whereof she may be termed the Cross, that is to say, Milan, Bergamo, Brescia, Cremona, and Piacenza, who affording it what it stands in need of, and expending its superfluities, concur in the rendring it a rich City, tis full of regard, and filled with Merchandize and a haughty self-conceited sort of men, but better illustrated by their gratious and loving Women, who flourish, are free, and most pompous in their array. It is adorned with sumptuous and magnificent Fabricks, among which the most conspicuous are the publick Palace, the Piazza and the Domo with its Tower (wherein is a large Bell) of fair and open Architecture, with two regardfull Chapels, one dedicated to the blessed Virgin, all over garnished with excellent pictures, the other to Saint Mark no less beautified with gilt Images. Two other not able things this Church owns, to wit, that Wooden crucifix, which in Anno 144 [...] ▪ was cast into the Fire by a certain man called Giovanni Alchini, of the faction of Gibellina Bergamesca, which would not burn▪ but is still preserved with the one side a little singed in a particular Chapel, with great Veneration, the other is a Key of San Bellino, which hath the foretold miraculous curing virtue of such as are bit by madd Doggs.
In the same Church are conserved certain trophies of Banners, and a Lanthern of a Gally, taken together with the Gally in a Naval fight against the Turks, by a Preacher of the most noble Family of Zurly, during the fight, being set at the head of the Gally. Besides the above named Fabricks and things worth seeing in this City, two Hospitals are valuable. One for the infirm, the other for the decrepit and outcasts: the sacred Mount of Piety is well endowed, and governed with great providence by the publick, to supply the necessities of the City and Country.
There is also a noble Academy for Students, who under the name of Sospinti, employ themselves in good exercises with an impulse of generous emulation. Distant a quarter of a mile from the City stands (towards the Castle) a magnificent Temple of great devotion, named Santa Maria della Croce, of an admirable Structure, and adorned with many rare Pictures: To this noble and fair City, though Little (as little best corresponds with little) belongs a small but most fertil Territory, washed all over with current and Christalline waters, which affords the City good Fish, as Lobsters, Trouts, Gudgeons, and Eels, and the Country an enriching of their soyl by overflowings, whereby it yeelds great plenty of Corn and Grass, the first whereof they have for their own use and other Cities, and with the second they make incomparable cheese.
But that wherewith it most abounds is Flax, which after made into the finest Drapery is spent all over Italy.
In its territories though small, are contained fifty four Villages, [Page 64] and Towns, the chief whereof are, Monte dine, Stanengo, Camisano, Tetrore, Vaiano, Bagnelo, Madegnano, being all most populous.
The Original of this City, was taken from its situation, for being invironed then with the three Rivers, Ada, Oglio and Serio, it was very strong, and that strength as is believed invited many noble men of the neighbouring Cities (in the time of the Wars of Albonio King of the Longobards) to retire themselves thither, and from Cremete one of the chief of those Nobles it took its name. For Forty yeers it maintained it self in liberty, but then she with the other Cities of Italy suffered shipwrack, being by the Longobards, Frederick Barbarossa and others, many times, taken, burnt, sacked, and destroyed, and subjugated sometimes to the Emperors, sometimes to the French, and sometimes to the Germans. But now tis governed by the most Serene Republick of Venice under whom it hath the privilege to keep every yeer a Fair beginning at the end of September being frequented with innumerable concourse of People, divers Merchandizes and Commodities, and great store of Cattle of all sorts.
It ever was the Mother of illustrious persons, as well learned in all the sciences, as famous Captains, eminent Engineers, Generals of Armies, writers of Histories, as well Moral as Divine, Prelates of the greatest Negotiations, and Cardinals, some whereof have possessed the Pontificial Chayr.
MILAN the great.
MIlan was an antient and illustrious City, and for a long time (through its beauty remained an imperial Seat.) Behind its shoulders rise those Mountains which separate Italy. Before it is a long and spatious Plain which extending it self above 200. miles, reacheth the Church lands between Rimio and Pesaro on the one side, and Istria and Osia, on the other side. Whereof Polibius writes thus. There is a plain, between the Alps and the Apennines of a triangular Forn, wherein are pleasant Fields above all the Fields not only of Italy but all Europe. Of which Triangle, the Apennines form one side, the Alps another, and the Adriatick Sea or Gulf of Venice (as it were the basis to the other two) makes up the third side.
And although Milan was heretofore a small Town, it was nevertheless much aggrandized and amplified by Belovese King of the Galls, having environed it with a Wall 24. foot broad, and 64. feet high, which compassed in all the Streets and round of the City: in which Wall were raised 130. Bulwarks, and Towers of immense bigness and heighth, which had six principal Gates. This was effected 270 yeers before Brenta King of the Senoni, fell down into Italy, who threw down and levelled it with the Foundations. But the Roman Senate having restored it to its first form and beauty, and being increased in Riches and People, Attila King of the Hunns descending into Italy, ruined it once more.
Afterwards, twas again rebuilt by the Arch-Bishop Eusebius, rearing the Wall again, and re-edifying the ruinated Building. And one hundred yeers after, that is in Anno Salutis 577. the Goths exercised so great cruelty towards the Milanesi, that after they had cast [Page 65] down the Walls, and Edifices, they in one day slew thirty thousand Citizens.
This City was likewise ill treated by Erimberto Brother of the King of France, and by Federick Barbarossa the Emperor: who with intendment of its perpetual desolation ploughed & sowed it w th. salt, but being afterwards reconciled to the Citizens, he restored it to its former beauty, encompassing it round with a wall, wherein were set out six principal Gates: At which time, viz. in the 1177. year, the circnit of it was six miles without the suburbs, but now there is a Wall drawn round, which comprehends therein the Suburbs also, which was done by Gonzaga Lieutenant of the Emperor Charls the 5th. and is in circumference ten miles, having very deep Fosses or Ditches, and ten Gates.
This City, before the coming of Belloveso, as is aforesaid, was but a Town called Subria built by the Tuscans, then Belloveso coming from Gallia, beat out the Tuscans, aggrandized and much beautified the Town: As to the name Mediolano, as formerly called, diverse are the opinions, some say twas so called for that it was seated between two Rivers, the Adda and the Tesino. Others say, that name was imposed on it by Belloveso by the command of the Gods, giving him to understand, that he should build a City where he should find a Farrowing Sow, half black and half white, with Wool between her shoulders: Whence finding such a Sow in that place, and esteeming it a good augure and praesage, he built it, naming it Mediolana, as much as to say, Meza Lana, or half Wool, in remembrance of which thing we find in a Marble over the Gate of the Palace of Merchants the shape and figure of the said Scrofa or Farrowing Sow.
The Galls kept the Dominion of this City, a long time, under Belloveso and his Successors, till they were beaten out by the Romans, who subjected it for a great while to them, under whom it augmented in riches and People, chiefly under the Emperors as well Greek as Latine; some whereof much delighted to reside there, invited thereto by the beauty of the place, and the comodiousness of managing the Wars against the French and Germans, as necessity required. It so much humoured Trajan, the Emperor, that he there built that proud Palace which to this day retains his memory.
Adrian, Massiminian, Hercules, Filippo a Christian Emperor, Constantine, Constanzo, Theodosio, with many other Emperors, dwelt there, left most stately Edifices, and caused four Wi-draughts or Common shores to be dugg, which continue to this day. Afterwards it became subject to the Goths, and to the Longobards, who being driven out by Charls the great, it came under the power of the Emperors. In which time Contado Suevio being Emperor, it began to take boldness and aspire to Liberty, when Justice was administred by the Captains and other Officers elected by the People uniting with them the Primate or Arch-Bishop of the City, by the Peoples election: In which time great discord arising between the Nobility and Plebeians, and thereby governing themselves very ill, they to prevent those disorders put themselves under the power of those of Torre, afterwards to the Visconti, who a great space kept the Dominion, whom the Sforzeschi succeeded, them the French, and last of all the house of Austria obtained it, and keep it to this day in good peace and tranquillity.
[Page 66] Milan lies under the sixth Climate or Degree, which affords it a great benignity of the skies, yet the Ayr is somewhat thick. Chanels of water environ both the City and Suburbs, upon which by Barks they conveigh great abundance of goods and provisions of all sorts. In truth tis a wonderfull thing to behold the great plenty of all things, for the life or necessity of Man, which are there, and tis held for certain, that in no other part of Europe▪ there is so great provision for the Belly, nor at less price, than is here: whence the Proverb is taken Solo in Milano si mangia. For whereas in other Cities one finds not above three Piazzaes at most, where are kept sueh publick Markets, in Milan there are a hundred, whereof 21. are principal, which every fourth day of the week are vastly laden with all sorts of Provisions: For wines they chiefly have Vernaccie of Montf [...]rrat, and the Wines of Brianza so much spoken of: Moreover for that it is the Centre of Lombardi, hither they transport infinite quantities of Merchandize, from Germany, France, Spain, and Geneva.
Tis seated in a wide Plain, having about it green hills, delightfull Meadows, navigable Rivers and Lakes, which furnish them with delicate Fish. In summ, this Country affords in most plentifull measure whatsoever can be desired. Tis so thronged with Artizans of all sorts, that the vulgar proverb goes. ‘Chi volesse rassettare Italia rovinarebbe Milano’
But the chief of them are Gold-Smiths, Armourers, Gun-makers, and Weavers, who here exceed in these particulars, and in works of Christal, either Venice or any other part of Italy; the Nunns work here likewise most exact and neat curiosities in straw works. It abounds likewise with most magnificent and Stately Palaces, among which the stupendious Palace of Tomaso Marini (built with so vast expence and Artifice, that whoever beholds it stands amazed) shines like the Moon among the Starrs.
The Castle of Porta Zobbia, named among the chief of Europe, both for its site, greatness, beauty, and its plenty of Artiglery, Arms, and Ammunition, is so impregnable, that hitherto twas never taken by force, but through failer of provisions and Famine it hath been yeelded up. This Fort may be compared to an indifferent City, for within it are streets, Piazzaes, Palaces, Shops for Gold-Smiths, and all other Trades whatsoever, together with all sorts of Victuals and other provision in time of War, as well as Peace. Immense Bastions, with three large profound Dykes, environ it, through which run great Chanels of Water, with a most vast Wall, and spatious Ramparts, under which they walk by a close way made to that purpose. Upon the Battlements and through the Porteholes up and down, are drawn out great Mouths of Cannon, and other pieces of Artiglery set upon Iron Carriages, some whereof shoot Bullets of 800. pound weight, with such force that no obstacle can withstand them; It hath one place to lay up, and dispose the Arms in a Capacious Arcenal, replenisht with infinite Arms of all sorts both for Offence and Defence. The Tower in the midst of it, is of a square form, and is in circuit (not reckoning the Towers which one may [Page 67] call little Forts) 200. paces. The whole Castle or Fort is 1600. paces in circum ference, besides the Trenches. In fine tis accounted by all Ingineers the fairest and strongest fortification of Europe. They unwillingly admit any Stranger to see the out-works, much less the interiour parts.
It abounds with rare and excellent Pictures, among others there is one upon the Front of a Palace near the Fort, wherein are painted the Acts of the Romaus, by the hand of Trofo da Monza, so divinely, that tis impossible to add to it. The Images are done so exact to the life and so natural, that all the beholders rest astonisht, and expect speech from those inanimate (but seeming breathing, and moving) Pictures.
To say no more, Art here hath overcome Nature. Towards the Gate Beatrice, is the Front of another Palace (of the Lituadi) painted so rarely well by the hand of [...], that it almost fascinates the eyes of the Aspicients. And at the Gate [...]osa, stands an admirable Statue made to the middle, at the Publick cost, in remembrance of a Strumpet, who principally caused Milan to gain its Liberty.
Milan from the death of Belloveso continued ever head of the adjacent Countrey, which made the antient Emperors to send thither a Lieutenant with title of Count of Italy, who also was Captain General of the Empire, and remained there with Consular authority, and Captain of their Armies, that he might bridle the Fury, and shut up the passage from the Inroads into Italy of the Ultramontaneous People.
Such is the wholsomness of the Ayr, the Beauty of the Country, and Copiousness of sustenance, that it hath tempted many Princes (desirous to rest quiet) to make this their Retreat, and Asylum, as also many other great Men that they might the more commodiously apply themselves to the Study of Learning: Of which were Virgil, Alipius, Saint Augustine, Hermolao Barbaro, Merula, Francesco Filelfo, Celio Rodigino, Alexander the sixth, and Pious the fourth Popes. And although too often this City was thrown down to the very foundations, and at last furrowed with the plough of the Enemies, yet it ever revived again, and that with more beauty and Splendor than at first, increasing still so much in Riches and People, that it ever kept a place among the chief Cities of Italy.
Near the Church San Salavdore, there stood a proud Palace of the Emperors, with a Temple dedicated to Jupiter, made in emulation of the Campidoglio at Rome, and where now the Counsel is kept, was the Palace for Justice; where also the Proclamations of the Dukes were accustomed to be publickly read, and the due punishments executed on Malefactors. There was also a Theatre to present Comedies, a place for Horse▪ races, and a large Circle where now is Santa Maria Maggiore. The Garden near San Steffano, was an Amphitheatre, where they accustomed to fight Duels. The Church of San Nazario was an old Prison, where they condemned Malefactors to fight with the wild Beasts there preserved to that end in great number,
The Common Field was then a Theatre, where the young men exercised themselves in taming and manning of Horses, and fighting. Where the Cathedral Church is, was a place with Stalls many waies where they made their Feasts to their Heroes and Houshold Gods. The [Page 68] Stalls now for the Cattel, then was a pleasant Garden, beautified and planted with many Fruit trees and plants brought from far Countries; great store of odoriferous flowers; Rivolets of Christalline waters, Statues and Sculptures of Marble. Where the Church of San Lorenzo stands now, were the hot Baths of Maximinian, Nero, and Nerva, the Emperors, nothing inferiour to them at Rome.
Besides which antiquities, there yet is preserved a stately Armory in the Palace, replenished with most noble Arms, worthy any Prince for the value and fairness, being not onely inlayed with Gold and Silver, but engraven with greatest Cost and Workmanship; where now is the Church San Lorenzo, was a Temple dedicated to Hercules, made in the form of the Rotunda at Rome, near which were erected 16. Marble Pillars, and upon them a Palace for the Emperours, part whereof was ruined by fire, the rest by time, nothing but the Pillars remaining All this Fabrick was raised by Maximinian Hercules, who ordained the Town should be no more called Milano, but Herculeo. At one end of those Pillars is this inscription put in. ‘Imp. Caesari L. Aurelio vero Aug. Arminiaco Medico Parthico Max. Trib. Pot. VII. Imp. IIII. Cos. III. PP. Divi Antonini Pii. Divi Hadriani Nepoti. Divi Trajani Parthici, Pronepoti Divi Nervae. Apnepoti Dec. Dec.’
This Milan was alwaies a potent City, whence we read that it many times made opposition to the Romans, and often fought the Goths and other Barbarous People, and also against both the Federicks the first and second Emperours, obtaining a most glorious victory: It subjected to it Navara, Bergamo, Pavia, Como, Lodi, and Tortona, and freed Genoua from the hands of the Moors, The Romans were wont to say.
It was so much prized by the adjacent Countreys (that it being ruined by Federick Barbarossa the Emperor) Cremona, Verona, Piacenza, advised how to restore it at their own cost and charges, and in all times twas very populous.
It received the light of the Faith from S: Barnabas, sent thither from Saint Peetre, who then resided in Antiochia, which was in the 46. year after the coming of our Saviour, where he substituted for Bishop Anatalone the Greek his Disciple, whom in process of time succeeded many holy Bishops, among others that glorious pillar of the Church Saint Ambrose the most renowned Doctour; who finding the Bodies of San Gervaso and Protaso the Martyrs, caused that Church to be built which is now called San Ambrogio. This was the Cathedral Church, where is seen the true effigies of the brazen Serpent made by Moses, brought hither by Theodosius the Emperor, as also the effigies of San Bernardo upon a Pillar, who in this Church said Mass, preached and wrought miracles. Likewise a sumptuous Sepulchre wherein lies Lewis the second Emperour, and Pepin King [Page 69] of Italy both Sons of Charls the great, there under the Altar within a deep Pit locked with four Gates of Iron, is kept with great reverence the body of Saint Ambrose, and a book writ with his own hand: Angelberto of the illustrious Family of Pusterly in the time of Charls the Great, being Arch-Bishop. The Emperor gave to this Altar a noble Pall, embroidered with Saints and Angels, in 20. several Squares, in the midst whereof is the Saviour of the World, as he rose from the dead, upon whose head is a Diamond set round with gemmes of inestimable valew. On both sides of which Altar are four other Images of Saints, in the middle is a Cross. The Vests are all over beset with many pearls and pretious stones; behind the Altar is another Cross of silver two Cubits high, and one & an half broad, where are 23. figures of Saints of embossed work; This so stupendious work cost in those days 28000. Scudaes, and is now worth 100000. Volvinio the excellent Sculptor of those times was the Artificer of it. Saint Ambrose stood at the Gate of this Church, when he excomunicated Theodosius the Emperor, commanding him not to enter therein. Contiguous with it is a noble and stately Monastery of the Fryers Celestines. At the issuing out of Saint Ambrogio, is a poor Chapel in a blind corner with a Well, where Saint Ambross baptized Saint Augustine: and tis known, that this was the way, which Saint Augustine, and Saint Ambrose took hand in hand to give thanks to God in San Gervaso, for the holy Baptism received, singing Te Devm Laudamus, as the Inscription testifieth. ‘Hic beatus Ambrosius babtizat Augustinum, Deodatum, & Alippum, hic beatus Ambrosius incipit te Deum laudamus. Augustinus sequitur, Te deum confitemur.’
The meanness of the place makes it most credible to be true, the name of Carolus Boromaeus a Council of Trent Saint, highly cryed up at Milan, having too much extinguisht the memory and esteem of that learned Father.
The Church of Santa Tecla, is replete with holy Reliques; here rests Saint Ambrose, and among other Reliques a Nayl which was fixed and drove through a member of the Body of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ into the Wooden Cross whereon he was crucifyed, by the wicked Jewes, w ch. was bestowed on it by Theodosius the Emperor: This is the antientest Temple of Milan, and was first consecrated to the Saviour, after to the Virgin Mary, and lastly to Tecla, but antiently many yeers before the coming of the Messiias, they say there stood a most famous Temple of Minerva, where (as Polybius averrs) this goddess was adored and reverenced with the greatest and most particular devotion, whence many suppose this Ciry took its name, for that in the antient Celtique and German tongues Magdalant signifies the Land or Country of a Virgin, which opinion is likewise confimed by Andrea Alciato I. C. A veritable Author in all the sciences, who in his Emblems writ this Epigram.
Santa Maria della Scala, was founded by Regina, Wife of the Visconte: and enjoyned to be so called, because she descended from the Family of the Scalaes of Verona. It stands where was antiently the Palace of the Turriani: And where the Church of Saint Dionigeis stood in old time a Dragon, which then greatly afflicted the Country and destroyed many, at last he was slain by Umberto Angiere, who was thereupon created Viscont.
There are two Chapels in the Church of Saint Mark, in one whereof is the most excellent Pictures of Lomazzo, containing in one the Apostles, Prophets, Sibils, and many other pourtraies: In the other the fall of Simon Magus from Heaven, which it represent, as most horrible spectacle.
The Church of San Nazario, contains certain proud Tombs of the illustrious Lords, the Trivultii chiesly that of Giacomo, of whom may be truly said: He that never was quiet lies still here: Near this Church they shew a red stone, which they term the holy Stone, wherein are cut the victories, and trophies which Saint Ambrose gloriously obtained upon the Arrians, in memory whereof, to him was erected a Statue at the Gate Vico. The Church of S. Fedele, is admirable, no less for its beauty, than for the Architecture of Pellegrino.
The Church of San Paola and San Barnabas, for the Nuns is most noble, where was first founded the Order of the reformed Priests of the beheaded Saint John: They have one rare cross cut by Bramantino.
The Church of Santa Rosa, is for the preaching Fryers, who have the keeping of the holy Rosarie.
In the magnificent Temple of San Gottardo, are excellently drawn the effigies of the Visconte, where ly buried Azzone Visconte, and Gio Maria the second Duke. Its beautified with a stupendious Belfry, and a fair Garden.
The Church of Saint Eustorgio the Bishop, shewes a stately and sumptuous Sepulcher, wherein ly the bones of San Pietro the Martyr. A rich Tabernacle where is kept the head of Saint Eustorgio, and the Tomb of the three Magi, with this inscription. Sepulchrum Trium Magorum, where lay the Bodies of those Magi, which were brought hither by Saint Eustorgio, in Anno 330. when he came last out of the East; but many yeers after, this City being destroyed by Fedrick Barbarossa, in Anno 1163. These Bodies were conveyed to Colonia Agrippina by Rodolphus the Arch-Bishop, now they keep in that Sepulcher, the Body of Eustorgio with many reliques of other Saints, Martyrd there for the Faith of Christ. Here also are kept the Ashes of many noble Milanesians, inter alia of Matteo Visconte first Duke of Milan, and of Gio Merula a most Learned Man, who was interred with geeat pomp in the time of Ludovico Sforza, with this Epitaph on his Tomb.
Over the Gate of the Convent of the preaching Fryers (from whom many excellent Theologians have issued) is placed the Pulpit, wherein Saint Petre the Martyr being preaching to the People at noon day in Midsummer, obtained by his Merits and the instance of his Prayers, that a Cloud hung over the Auditors in manner of an Umbrella preserving them from that intollerable heat; near the said Church gusheth out the fountain of Saint Barnabas, where though an unpolished▪ place, he baptized and said Mass, of which water, who drinks is immediatly delivered from the malignity of any Feaver.
The Temple of S. Lorenzo, formerly dedicated to Herode, was much more sumptuous than the abovenamed Churches, which in the yeer 1085. being in great part burnt, received great damage in the Mosaick of Gold, and in the destruction of many Brass figures about the Pillars.
The royal Church of Saint Aquilino founded by [...]lacida, Sister of Honorius the Emperor, and wife to Constantine, shewes on its Front fair Marble Colums, and within as noble Pillars of Porphiry. In the Church of Stephano was flain with many stabs the Duke Caleazzo Maria Sforzo. In S. Giovanni lies the Tomb of Barnabo Visconte Prince of Milan.
The Church of S. Statiro and Celso, is proud of the excelling Genius and Architecture of Bramante, the Limner of Urbin, in many works he wrought there; The Front of that of Saint Mary, of its excellent Statues wrought with so much art, that all conclude it impossible to equal them: and that of the Peace or Pace of its rare painting of the history of the blessed Virgin and her Father by the hand of Gaudentius, and moreover the Virgin her self painted by Marco Uglono the Painter, which stand near the Cross, and lively expresseth a real sorrow.
In the Church of Saint Francis, is a Tablet of the conception, together with Saint Gio, the Baptist, a Child adoring our Lord, so well done by the hand of Vincio, that they cannot be paralleled. In the Church della Passione, is a stupendious piece of the celebration of the last Supper, where is truly represented the amazement of the Apostles, by Christofero Cibo.
In the Church delle Gratie, founded by Germano Rusca, and aggrandized by Ludovico Sforza, is painted in a Tablet the Picture of our Lord crowned with Thorns, by Titian the worthy of eternal memory, about the Cupula are Angels formed by Gaudentius, whose vestments are rarely wrought, and in another place Sain Paul painted, writing and contemplating, Herein lies buried Beatrice the Dutches, so well beloved by Ludovico her Husband, that he vowed never to sit at table again at eating, and lived so a yeer about: One Epitaph over the Gate of the Cloysters, artificially made, shall be here inserted. ‘Infelix partus, amissa ante vita, quàm in lucem ederet, infelicior, quod matri moriens vitam ademi, & parentem consorte sua orbavi; in [Page 72] tam adverso fato, hoc solum mihi potest jucundum esse, quod Divi parentes ne Ludovicus & Beatrix Mediolanen. Duces gennere, 1497. tertio Non. Ianuarii.’
In this Church lies Giovanni Simonetta, who wrote the history of the Sforzeschi, and Giulio Camillo a most Learned Man, whose Epi taph, placed on another door of the Cloysters, followes ‘Iulio Camillo Viro ad omnia omnium scientiarum sensa mirificam eruenda, & adscientias ipsam in suum ordinem aptè constituendas natura mirè facto, qui apud Dominicum Saulium Idibus Maii 1544. repentino mortuus concidit. Dominicns Saulius amico desideratissimo posuit.’
Which Church is possessed by the preaching Fathers, with a stately Convent, to be reckoned one of the chief of Europe, for largness and beauty of building and the number of the learned and best Fathers, which that Order enjoys, where they shew in a refectory the Picture of our Saviour with the Apostles at the last supper, drawn by Leonardo Uinci with such vivacity and Spirit that they seem to move, and be sensible of the passions of Love, Sorrow, Joy, admiration, Suspition, &c. particularly in the Face of Judas one sees exprest that Treafon, which he had conceived in his mind; Leonardo Vinci, having compleated all the Apostles, not wanting more to its finishing than the visage of our Savionr, it happened that he could never accomplish it, because he had expressed so great beauty and glory in the Faces of Saint James the greater and the less, that he had left no possibility for his fancy to draw any thing beyond them: Whence pondring the impossibility of the thing, he resolved to consult with Bernardo Zenale another worthy Painter of those times; who its reported made him this answer. This Picture hath one Errour which God only can rectifie, for tis not imaginable that thou or any other Painter in the World can express more grace and Majesty, than thou hast presented in the one and t'other James, wherefore leave it as tis; Lonardo did so, as appears at this day, yet not so demonstrable, because time hath in part defaced the glory of those Faces. There also are the effigies of Lodovico, Beatrice, and both their Sons afterwards Dukes, Massiminiano, and Francesco. In the Church of S. Vittorie of the Fryers of the Mount of Olives, is seen a Saint George, giving death to the Serpent, wrought by Raffael of Urbino.
The great aud sumptuous Domo or Cathedral, was founded with infinite expence by the Duke Giovan Galeazzo, built with such industry, that for its greatness and Architecture, the pretiousness of the Marbles and workmanship, few Temples of the World can be paralleled unto it. Tis all of white Marble, and about it are 500. Statues of the same. Its length from East to West is 250. Cubits, and breadth 130. It hath six Cupolaes, one 80. cubits high, two 50. another forty, and the others 30. The four Pilastres of the greater Cupola are 32 cubis distant one from t'other; It hath three proportionated Isles with sive gates in the front; the Casements, and Arches are of a Pyramid form, the Iron Bars which sustain this great work, are so hugely bigg, that the Architectors of Charles the fifth beholding them from the ground were amazed at them; Among the [Page 73] other Statues, there are two most stupedious, the one of Adam, the other of S. Bartolomeo flleaed, divinely carved by Christopher Cibo, in one of which may be clearly discerned the whole Anatomy of Man, which is unparalleld. It hath two great Organs, in one of which stands David the Prophet, playing on the Symbal before the Ark, wrought with great artifice by Gioseffo of Monza. It hath two noble Vestries, wherein they preserve their Vestments, rich Ornaments, and Vessels given them by Arch-Bishops, and Dukes, with many reliques of Saints. It hath besides a stately Chorus, where the Dukes of Milan are intombed, and before the great Altar stands the Grave of Cardinal Carlo Borromeo, whose sanctity of Life, and the form of good living, prescribed by him to others, hath raised this opinion, that his Soul ascended immediately out of his Body into Heaven: In another part is the Tomb of Giacomo Medici, Marques of Melignano, a Captain of great valour, and his statue with his natural Visage, and Military habit in Brass, made by Leone Aretino. In this Church they reverently keep also one of the Nayls wherewith our Saviour was nayled to the Cross, given by Theodosius the Emperor.
Among the other pious places, is the great Hospital of Milan, praisable, seated in an Island, and invironed with Columns, and Porches, tis 600. rods about, 150. of a side; Tis divided into four most capacious appartments, having underneath many little Shops made on purpose for the workers, employed for the use of the Hospitals: In the middle walk are 112. Beds for sick persons, all hung with Curtains, equally distant one from another, and accommodated in such manner, that at the saying of Mass all may hear. Its revenue is 50000. Crowns, somtimes exceeds 90000. Crowns per. Ann. It maintains 4000. Souls, and for its noble Structure may be fit for the greatest Prince. Five miles out of Milan on the Road of Come, is the Lazuretto of Saint George, (for the infected of the Plague) which edifice is four-squared, 1800 yards in circuit, round i [...] runs a Channel; and within it are infinite beds with sufficient provision of all necessaries.
In this City are many Noble, Lordly, and magnificent Families, among others the Ancient house of the Pusturley, the Turriani, who came from Valle Sassiuo, and sometime governed here, from this Family came Matteo Turriano, who being Captain for Conradus the second Emperour, in Arabia against the Moors, was taken Prisoner, and Martyrd for the Faith of Christ. The Visconti, as some say, were descended from the Trojani, who built Angiera, near the Lake Maggiore, which City they long possessed, when being the most potent Family in Lombardy, Matteo Visconte was constituted imperial Vicar of Milan, and all Lombardy, and permitted to carry the Eagle in his ensignes. Others say this Family had its original from the Kings of the Longobards, Be it as twill, twelve Princes of the Visconti held the dominion of Milan 170. years Under Duke John Galleazzo it commanded 29. Cities besides Lumbardy, among others Genoua, Bologna, Pisa, Belluno, and Trento. From the illustrious Family of Sforzaes have descended six Dukes of Milan, Cardinals, Queens, and one Empress. And besides the aforenamed, the Families of the Trivultii, Biraghi, Medici, Ruschi, Mezenti, Bezzozzi, and others are of Milan.
[Page 74]It produced 4. Popes, Urban the third, Celestine the fourth, Pius the fourth, and Gregory the 14th. Two Emperors, Didius Julianus, and Maximinianus Herculeus, who built the Hercolean hot Baths, and here in Milan deposed and quit the Emperial Diademme; as also Virginius Rufus, thrice Consul, with many Cardinals, Bishops, Saints, with eminent scholars in all ages, as Salvio Giuliano, Grandsire to Giuliano the Emperor, Paulo Eleazarno, Gioan Lignano, Giasone del Maino, Filippo Deno, Andrea Alciato, Marco Massimo the Historian, and Astrologer, Cecilio the Comick Poet, the Cardinal Paulo Emilio Sfrondato Nephew of Pope Gregory the 14. a person worthy of much praise, for his goodness and integrity of life.
The Arch Bishop of Milan hath the Title of Prince, and hath a long time enjoyed the primacy thereof: Its Jurisdiction extended it self heretofore to Genoua, Bologno, and some parts of Sicilia, and proceeded from its riches and pride, to that rashness, that for 200. years it with drew it self from the Roman Bishops, but Carlo Borromeo hath taken off much of that obliquy, by the splendour he hath given to that Arch Bishoprick by his holy conversation, whom Cardinal Federick his Nephew succeeded, a worthy imitator of his Uncle.
Before a Palace near the Porta Lodivica, is an Altar of Marble Stones, where on one side is earve [...] Diana Luci fera (as Cicero calls her) with a burning Torch, as Lucillus writes in his Satyrs.
For this Godess was in this manner adored in the Island, Lipari, and at its Feet is a Blood-hound with the eyes towards the Goddess, on the other fide is Apollo Medico, leaning on a Tripode, with a Bow in his right hand, and a quiver of arrows hanging at his shoulder, near his feet a Scepter, and the Serpent Pitone, who is therefore called by the Poets Pitio, & Citaredeo, before the said Altar may be read this inscription. ‘AEsculapio & Hygiae Sacrum C. Oppius. G. L. Leonas VI. Vir. & Aug. Honoratus. In Tribu. GL. Patrum, & liberum Clientium. & Adcensus Patroni. Sanctissimis Communicipibus suis. DD. Quorum. Dedicatione Singulis Decurionibus *III. Augustalibus. *II. Et Colonis. Cenam. Dedit L. D. D. D.’
There are in Milan II. Collegiat Churches, 71. Parochials, 30. Convents of Fryers, and 8 of Regulars, 36. Monasteries of Nuns, 32. Confraternities or Fryeries, which with diverse others amount to 238. Churches, with 120. Schools, where Boys are instructed in Christian Doctrine and other Learning.
[Page 75]It hath therefore worthily attributed to it the name of Milan the great, and the estimation of one of the four great Cities of Italy, that is, Roma, Venetia, Milano, Napoli, and Autonio Callo reckons it one of the ten greatest of Europe, it well may be accounted and taken for the greatest of any Metropolis in a Dutchy.
Going forth of the Gate Camasina, towards the North, and the Como Mountains, at 25. miles distance one arivies at Como, which rea [...] affords nothing worthy observation, but the Town Bersalina, where Bersalina Saint Peetro the Martyr was slain by the Hereticks, and in that place where he wrote the 12. Articles of Faith, with his blood, there is a Grott where they continually digg Earth, and yet it appears no hollow; Over that place they pretend likewise to see a great splendour, which God sheweth for the glory of that holy Body there inhumanly slain.
COMO.
COmo is a City famous for the genteelness of her Citizens and flourishing Muse of Paolo Giovo, is seated in a Plain environed with Mountains, and near the Lake Lario or Como, within which and opposite to Como is a small Town built as it twere in a Peninsula, and at the lower end thereof stands a Palace, where the abovenamed, Paolo, had embellished a Library with a noble collection of Books, and the pourtrays of the most illustrious persons, as is expressed in his books called gli. Elogii, but at present there remains nothing of it more than certain pictures upon the Walls, The Images, Books, Robes of Prete Janni King of AEthiopia, the Bowes and other Arms of the Antipodes, with many other curiosities not else where to be found, and of good valew, are removed thence to the Palace of the Giovii; within Como in the Dome or Cathedral Church on the left hand is erected the sumptuons Tombe of Benedetto Giovo the famous writer, in the City likewise may be read many epitaphs and writings, testifying their antiquity and constant fidelity to the Rou [...]an CommonWealth.
The Lake Como, is 36. miles long, and somewhat more than three miles broad, upon which (when calm) the Citizens in their boats recreate themselves, near the end stands the Fountain of Pliny, and Belacio, a Palace of the Signori Spondati, invironed with spatious Belasio Gardens, which are adorned with fair Arbours, and the Walls clothed with Gessamines, Roses, Rosemary, and other sweets, together with some Woods of Juneper Trees, which harbour all sorts of Birds.
Ten Miles distant from Milan, and between it and Como, stands the stately Castle Monza, which is washed by the River Lambro, Monza It was amplified by Thedorick first King of the Goths, and Teodolinae the Queen, there erected a magnificent Temple dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, endowing it with great riches, among others with a Saphyr of inestimable price, a Brood Hen and Chickens of Gold, and many other vessels of Gold, therein also are preserved many reliques in Vessels, given to it by San Gregory. Somasca
Then appears Somasca upon the Mountains, a Town often named for the Original of the Religious order of the regular Priests of Somasca; a little more forward, you see (near the Banks of the Lake [Page 76] Como the impregnable Castle Leaco, whence you passe by water to Como, and then advancing a little farther, the Traveller cometh to the Country of the Grizons, through which runs the River Adda.
On the left hand of Monza, rise the Mountains of Bianza, which afford most excellent Wines, and three miles distant from Monza on the right hand lies a well-manured Campagna, wherein Francesco Secundo Sforza, defeated the French Army, commanded by Lotrecco, where after the death of many thousand Souldiers, on both sides, he obtained a glorious victory. On this fide also (before the arrival at the River Varo, the boundary of Italy, appears the small River Martesana, an Arm of the Adda, which runs under the Gorgongiola, over Martosana which stands a Bridge, whence they descend to Milan, and thus we have described the places on the Eastern Part.
Issuing out of the Gate of Milan, Vercella, towards the West, you meet the compleat Town Ro, near by which, passeth an Arm of the Ro Tesino to Milan, on the other side of which Rivolet, is Ensalaro with many other Castles, whence taking the right-hand way, you arrive at the Lago Maggiore, at the very source of the River Tesino, which goes to Pavia, near which stands Angiera whence the Signori d' Angiera, Angiera now Viscounts, take their rise. Then at 17. miles distance from Milan upon a Mountain, (being as twere one of the Boundaries to the Lake) appears the devout Temple of Santa Maria del Monte, whither resort great concourse of People, to obtain their requests from God at the intercession of the blessed Virgin Mary. Then passing the Tessino, you find Viglebia, a new small City but fair, where stands the magnificent Palace called the Ssorzesca, so named from Lodovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, who built and gave it to the Religious Order of the Dominican Fryers, who to this day possess it.
From whence on the right hand way, lies Novarra, and the Country Lemellina, and on the left hand, the Castle Mortarra, heretofore Novarra Mortara called the fayr Wood, but afterwards from the great slaughter of the Longobards, there made by Charles the great, sighting with Desiderius their King, it was named Mortara. On the same side also is the Castle Valese, and the Town Vatalle under the Mountains, where in Valese burnt Earth is effigiated the Sepulchre of our Saviour, with all the mysteries of his passion in divers little Chapels, to which much Application is made with great reverence by the neighbouring People; near which begins the Loke Laguno, and the Country of the Grizons.
The Journey from MILAN to PAVIA.
BEtween Milan and Pavia stands the most noble Monastery of Certosa, built by Giovanno Galeazzo Visconte, first Duke of Milan, endowed with a great Revenue, in whose Temple himself lies buried, in a stately Marble Tombe, wherein is erected his Statue with his lively effigies, and inscribed a curious Epitaph, containing his famous notable Deeds, which Church hath many wonderfull Statues, [Page 77] Sculptures, and Pictures, fair Chapels, with Altars enriched with Gold, and pretious Stones, and a Vestry replete with Vests, and Vessels of Gold, and Silver of good valew, and many Reliqus of Saints.
Near which Monastery is a Park, invironed with a Wall of twenty miles square, wherein are plowed Lands, Meadows, and Woods, and therein are preserved great quantity of Wilde Beasts, for the Chase, as Hares, Roe-Bucks, Stags, Fallow-Deer, with other Creatures, which was imparked by the same Galeazzo, but is in some places fallen to the ground. Here Francesco the first King of France, encamped his Army, when he besieged Pavia, in the year of our Salvation 1525. at which time himself with the King of Navarre, and many prime Barons of France, were taken Prisoners by Monsiguors, of Lonato, and Barbone, Captains of the Army of Charls the fifth Emperour.
PAVIA.
PAvia according to Pliny was built by the Levi, and Marini, a People of Liguria, not far from the Poe: But Entropius and Paulus Diaconus will have it to be founded by the Insubri and Boii, after the Declension of of the Roman Empire, to whom twas for some time subject. It was subjugated afterwards to Attila King of the Hunns, then to Odoacro, King of the Heruli, who having taken it by force, sacked it, burnt it, and levelled the Walls with the Earth: Then it became under the power of the Longobardi, who there fixing the Regal Scat, raised many sumptuous Edifices, as saies Paolo Diacono, among others, the Monastery of Santa Chiara, was built by Partarito, the Church of Santa Maria della Pertiche, by Theodolinda the Queen, the Monastery of S. Pietro in Cielo Aureo, by Lutruprando the King, who brought thither from Sardigna, the venerable Corps of Saint Augustine, there yet kept in a well-polisht Tombe of Marble, with great reverence, with many other Structures, which for brevity sake are passed over; here also, one may see the Castle built by Giovan Galeazzo Visconte, and also that antique brass Statue on Horseback, called Regisole, which many conjccture to be made for Antonius, from the Lineaments of the Face add Beard.
There were 22. Kings of the Longobardi, and they reigned 202. yeers, whose Nobles mueh adorned this City, making her the Regal Scat, and Mistris of their Provinces.
It hath produced many illustrious men, among other Giovan the XVIII. Pope, and Tesore Baccaria, Abbot of Vall Ambroso, Martyred in Florence. It hath many noble Edifices. chiefly that Tower wherein the great Boetius quitted this mortal veil. It is seated in a well tilled Vale near the Appenine Hills, and the River Tesino, over which was carried a stately Bridge by the Duke Galleazzo Visconte.
This City Pavia, as well in the forenamed Battel in 1525. as in several others before and since in latter times, when the French undertook invasions into Italy and beseiged it, hath fatally proved the overthrow of their Armies, the loss of their designs, and the Ruine of their Interest in that Country.
In this City was instituted a famous University, not much inferiour [Page 78] to that of Paris, by the Emperour Charles the Great, whose zeal to amplifie the Christian Religion, caused him to send thither learned Theologians, to teach publiquely the true Doctrine, as also other eminent Doctors well read in all the Sciences, who were much encouraged to repair thither by their large Stipends and his signal favours; Giacone the so much celebrated Doctor, among others, spent many years in this Academy, also Baldo, having here read for some time, dyed, and lies interred in the Convent of the Fryers Franciscans, and tis conceived that the sereneness of the Ayr, so much sharpens the Genius of the Students, that it hath thence acquired the name of a glorious University.
The Faith of Christ was first preached and taught to the Pavians by the blessed Sirus of Aquleia, at the same time that the Apostle Saint Peter taught in Rome, from which time to this day they have constantl profest the same.
Its Citizens coveting their own Liberty, presented themselvs to Philip Arch-Bishop of Ravenna Legate of the Roman Church, in the yeer of Christ 1259. whereby they were long time kept under the Apostolick Sea, no less in Spirituals than Temporals, which the more evidently appears by the Oath which the Podestà and other Magistrates solemnly took at their ingression into their several Offices, precisely in this form. ‘Ego Potestas, vel Consul Justitiae Papiae, &c. Ad honorem Dei, & Virginis Mariae, ad honorem & reverentiam S. R. Ecclesiae, & Serenis. DD. Ludovici Romanorum Regis, & Civitatis Papiae bonum statum juro ad Sancta Dei Evangelia, corporaliter tactis scripturis, quod sum & ero fidelis S. R. Ecclesiae, & Rom. Imperii.’
The Emperour Charles the great, taking a Journey into France, left for his Lieutenants in this City, the Languschi, principal Gentlemen of Pavia, with the title of Vicars, which constitution the succeeding Emperoors successively approved, till the time of [...]edrick Barbarossa, who granted them power to elect their own Consuls to govern the City, whence it was that at the Treaty and Peace made by the said Frederick with the People of Lumbardy, this City there interven'd as [...]ree, and not subject to any others.
The Pavians (after the expiration of the 280. years wherein the Emperors enjoyed her) elected Gio Galeazzo Visconte, for Count of Pavia, under which capacity the Princes Visconte, and Sforzeschi successively possessed it, as doth now the King of Spain, to whom they surrendred themselves with another title and jurisdiction, to shew that this City holding themselves not at all subject to the Dutchy of Milan, but Muncipal, they might be acknowlged particularly as Counts of the Roman Empire.
No City in Lombardy can better extinguish any Novelties or Uprores than this of Pavia, and its Territory, which with the environing Rivers give limits to and divides the Milaneses, Novareses and other People of the hilly Countries, from the Genoveses, Tortoneses and those of Bobio Alexandria, and Casal, so that those several People can neither make league nor unite at their own pleasures without the consent of the Citizens of Pavia, which is duly called the Fatal Gate [Page 79] and Key of Lombardy, from its dominion over the Rivers Poe, and Tessino, and from its oportune site, being empowred to give or deny passage to or from either sides and shores of those Rivers.
Hence we may go by Boat on the Tesino to Piacenza or Cremona. But journying by Land, you leave on the right hand the Castle Vichiera, Tortona, Allessandria, Montferrate, and then Piedmont.
The Journey from MILAN to BOLOGNA by the VIA EMILIA, afterwards to FLORENCE, and Lastly to ROME.
INtending to travel from Milan to Rome, you must proceed out at the Roman Gate, and after some space towards Lodi, you meet on the right hand in the Territory of Milan, the rich and famous Monastery of Chiaravalle, to which the Abbot Manfredo Archinto, among other Farms, gave the great Vineyard Pilastrello, which was formerly called the Vineyard of the Poor; for that the wine there collected and thereof made, was usually dispenc'd among the Poor, being to that end preserved in one entire Vessel, the greatest in the World, which contayned 600. measures, (each of which held about threegallons) was conjoyned with great Beams, and encompassed with large Hoops, which when empty, hath for its grandure, been held a worthy object to many People, and to some Princes, Kings, and Emperors, among which was Charles the fifth who disdained not to enter therein. Somewhat further from whence in the Territory of Pavia lies the Town- Landiciano, and at tenn miles distant from Lodi the noble and rich Castle, Meregnana, and close by it runneth the River Lambro, which brings to it delight, and all sorts of provisions; near it is the place where Francis the first King of France flew 16000. Switzers, by whose deaths Massimilian Sforza happened to lose his Seignory and liberty; thence six miles stands the Castle S. Angelo, washed by the Lambro, where every Wednesday, is kept a fayr Market; thence three miles you see the place where antiently stood Lodi the Old. On the left of this fair way lies Cremona, and other places, whereof we have formerly treated in the voyage from Brescia, to Milan; on all fides, you behold this Country abounding with Fruit and manured with Vineyards.
LODI.
THis City was founded by Frederick Barbarossa, three miles distant from the old Lodi, at whose foundation laying, the said Federick with himself brought all his Princes, and endowed it with many privileges, which (under the shadow of the Empire) preserved it a long time in Liberty. Afterwards it chose for its Lords the Vestarini, its own Citizens, and in the end submitted to the Dukes of Milan. The old Lodi was called antientiy Laus Pompeia, for that it was restored by Pompeius Strabo, Father of Pompey the great, and this new Lodi was made a City by Corrado the second, Emperour, at the request of Erimberto, Arch▪ Bishop of Milan, and though at his instance yet it no way abated the envy reigning in the breasts of the Milanesi, for they in the yeer 1158. under Ussi, for the great hatred between them, destroyed it, being not at all satisfyed with their throwing down of the Walls, and driving away the Inhabitants, un till they had inforced the Citizens to live in villages separate one from another, at such distance that they might not assemble nor take Counsel how to restore their unhappy Country, prohibiting them traffick, and sale of any thing, or to joyn in allyance, under penalty of losing their patrimony, and banishment; into the like punishment fell such of them as went out of the place they were confined to, under which misery and servitude they continued for 49. yeers. But the Milanesi, were severely chastized for this their cruelty, by God the just Judge. Their City Milan being not long after sacked and burnt by Frederick the Emperor.
This City situate in a plain, is of two miles compass and a round form, having a pleasant and sertile Territory environing it, which produceth all sorts of Grain, delicious Wines, ane lovely Frui [...]: The Pasture, and Meadows, are alwaies in a flourishing green, being well preserved (from the scorching heat) by the overflowing of the Waters, which for that conveniency are conveyed in 4. or 5. Chanels, one above another almost to a wonder, and so much to their advantage that they mow their Meadows 4. or 5. times a yeer, which with their pasture affords them so much milk as is incredible to such as have not seen it, wherewith they make abundance of Cheese and some of them weigh 500. weight, here also they dry with salt those savory Calves Tongues▪ so much admired every where.
It hath many Rivers, and they afford excellent Fish, particularly most delicate Eels, The City contains 12000. Souls, and many noble Families, among others that of the Vestarini who a long time Reigned over it: It hath also given Birth to many Persons, no less eminent in Letters than Arms.
It received the light of the Christian Faith, from the preaching of Saint Barnabas, at the time when Milan was therewith enlightned. S. Bassano, was Bishop of this City▪ to whom a Church therein is dedicate, enriched with sacerdotal habits, embroideries of Gold, and Jewels, Cups, Crosses, Censors, and other valewable Vessels. Tis Adda washed with the River Adda, over which there is raised a Bridge of Wood, fix miles off which, is the rich Abbacy of Borgheto, and six [Page 81] miles thence stands mount Columbano, much celebrated for the delicate Wines, and fruit; on the left hand of the Strada Ricca, lies the Town Samalia, with an Hospital, and the Abbacy of the Fryers of Pusterlengo Saint Gyralamo, a little fartherly Lorlesco, and Pusturlingo, built by the noble Pusterli of Milan, whence (crossing the River by Boat) about a mile lies Piacenza.
PIACENZA.
SOme will have this City to take its name from the Pleasantness of its fite, and the beauty of its buildings, nor have we any other Original for Piacenza: Tis seated near the Poe, in a delightfull place, having a flourishing Champagua, and fruitfull Hills, The first yielding plenty of Corn, and other things, for humane sustenance, the later incomparable Wines, delicate Fruits, and Oyl: The Meadows, (alwaies green, by reason of the artificial flowing from the surrounding Rivers) are continually stocked with great herds of Cattel, whence they extract that cheese which for its goodness is so much cryed up through Enrope, that when they would commend any Cheese, they call it of Piacentia; It affords also certain springs of salt water, (from which with fire they extract the whitest salt) and some Mines of Iron, and Woods filled with Creatures for the Chase.
It was reduced into a Colony of the Romans, together with Cremona▪ in the 350th. yeer after the building of Rome, by their expulsion of the French out of that Country, as Livy saies, who of it makes an honourable mention in divers places, as well as divers other Historians, whence tis gathered, that twas very flourishing in the time of the Romans, since when it hath suffered many calamities, more by civil than forein invasions: In the 70th. year after the Nativity of our Saviour, when Vitellius waged War against Otho, the Amphitheatre standing without its Wall was burnt, which made Silio to say Quassata Placentia bello.
It is embellished with noble structures: As the antient Fountain erected by Augustus Caesar, the sumptuous Church of Santa Maria the Virgin, the Church of Santo Antonio the Martyr, the fair Church of S. Giovanni officiated by the Fryers of S. Dominick, and that of San Sisto, with a worthy Monastery, but above all is resplendent the Temple of Sant Augustino, attended by the canonical Regulars, which at first was compassed about with a weak Wall, but afterwards so well fortifyed with strong Walls and a Fort built of Stone, that it acquired a place among the strong holds of Italy: The City is four miles compass, and the Ditches add one mile more, and is washed by the Rivers▪ Trebia and Poe; after it had a long time enjoyed its liberty, it became subject to the Scotti, Turriani, the Landi, the Dukes of Milan, the French, the Romans, the holy Church, but at present it remains in peace under the Signori Farnesi.
Pliny drawes a conclusion of the goodness and temperature of the Ayr, from the old age the Inhabitants arrive to, who writes that in his time, one of its Citizens lived to be 120. yeers old, and in its Territory were six persons, who were 110: yeers old a peece, and one that was aged 140. yeers. The City contains 18000. Souls, whereof 2000. religious, many noble Families of great name flourish [Page 82] there at this day, at the Scotta, Landa, and Ansusciola, who possess many Castles and Jurisdictions: Among many other illustrious and vertuous persons, it gave birth to T. Tinca the old fluent Oratour, and to Pope Gregory the tenth, who dyed in Arezzo in Tuscany where many signes appeared of his great merits.
Going out of Piacenza, towards the East and North appears the mouth of the River Trebia, much spoken of by Historians, for the overthrow of the Roman Army, given by Hannibal, but afore it stands the Church of Saint Antonio, where the six Souldiers were St. Antonio miraculously burnt by fire, who blasphemed his name. Then you see Stradella and the Castle of Saint Giovanni and Vichiera. On the Ieftly the Apeni [...]e Hills, among which stands enclosed the City Bobio thirty Bobio miles from Piacentia where Teodolenda Queen of the Longobardi, built a rich and sumptuous Monastery, at the request of San Colombano, assigning it great possessions for susteining the Monks who served God, from which Monastery have issued thirty two Saints.
At Piacenza begins the Emilian Way, called Via Emilia, according to Livy, which was set out by Emilius the Consul, and extends it self from thence to Rimini, towards the South. On the right appears most sharp Mountains, wherein are built fair Castles, Towns, and Villages, but none of moment, except Corte Maggiore, belongi [...]g to the Pallavicini, and Arquato, much named for the sweet Wines Arquato there produced. On the left hand of the Emilian Way, stands Cremona, whither you may go also by Water from Piacenza upon the Poe: Between Piacenza and Cremona at 12. miles distance on the Via Emilia, appears the Castle Fiorenzola, called Fidentia, by Tolomeo, and likewise Livy, wri [...]ing in his 88th. Book, that Silla forced Carbone out of Italy, having overthrown his Army at Chinso, Faenza, and Fidentia. Here is that famous Abbacy, where with royal and splendid Fidenti provision, Pietro Antonio the Abbot, received Francis the first King of France, Charls the 5th. Emperour, and Paulus Tertius the Pope; more forward stands the Burgo Saint Donnino, sortifyed with new St. Donnino Forts, and created a City lately at the instance of Ranuecio Farnese, Duke of Parma, Having repassed the Poe, you arrive at the River Varro, whence to Parma is four miles, with a continued course of the Appenines on the right hand.
PARMA.
THis City is rich and adorned with stately Edifices, illustrious Families and many Inhabitants. It hath a delightfull and fruitfull Territory, yielding Corn, Fruit, Oyl, Wine, and Cheese known through the World, which hath acquired it a place among the rich and noble Cities of Italy.
Tis seated on the Via Emilia in a plain at five miles distance from the Apenines, between which and the Suburb on the West, passeth the River Parma, over which is raised a Bridge of carved Stone conjoyning both the Banks: Tis not known whether this River took its name from the City, or the City from the River, no antient Author making mention of it, but Livy, Polibius, and Cicero with other grave Writers, speak honourably of the City. It was made a Colony for the Romans together with M [...]dena, as Livy averrs, in his 39th. [Page 83] Book in these words. Eodem anno Mutina & Parma Coloniae Romaenorum Civium sunt deductae bina millia hominum in agrum, qui proximè Boio rum, ante Tuschorum fuerat, Octona jugera Parmae, quina Mutinae acceperunt.
Its People are fayr, and of as noble and spritefull Genius, disposed not only for Government of the Republick, but also to Letters and Arms. It hath a fayr and large Campagna, which nourishing immense numbers of sheep, affords them plenty of fine Wool, whereof Martial saies,
and in another place.
Its Ayr is so temperate, that Pliny saies in the time of Vespasian, there were two men 123. yeers old each. The Campagnia is so spatious that all behold it with wonder, where stands a Palace for the Dukes, embellished with Gardens and Fountains.
It was subject to the Roman Empire, till the decay thereof, when it recovered its liberty in the yeer of our Lord 1248. it was straightly besieged by Frederick Barbarossa, determining not to depart thence, till he had destroyed it, which resolution caused him to build a City near it, called Vittoria, 800 els long, and 600. broad, with eight Gates, and large dykes, but this his design was prevented by a salley of the Parmezans, who assay ling his Army overthrew it, and destroyed Vittoria.
The Domo of Cathedral Church is fayr and sumptuous, having many Canons and other Priests to officiate: In the Church of San Giovanni, dwell the Fryers of Saint Benedict: In the Church Steccata is stately Architecture, lovely Pictures and Images: In the Church of the Cupucines, lies buried Alessandro Farnese the invincible Captain and Madama Maria his devout Consort. Every Church hath some works of Parmegianino and Corregio, the famous Painters.
In Parma are the noble Families of the Pallavicini, Torelli, Rossi, Giberti, Sanvitali, with others.
It hath produced men eminent in Learning, Virtue and Arms, as Cassio the Poet, Macrobio a worthy Writer, with others; It is subject to the most serene house of the Farnesi, who have therein raised many stately Fabricks, and lately the Duke Ranuccio erected a School for all the general sciences; drawing thither by his large Stipends, the most eminent Doctors of Italy.
It is four miles in circuit, and contains 22. thousand Souls.
Forth of Parma towards the North is Colorno a well-governed Castle Colorno with other fair places, and towards the South, having passed the River Taro and travelled 35. miles you meet Borgo a noble Castle of the Dukes of Parma, from which Country besides great plenty of all Bergo necessaries for humane sustenance, they gather sometimes a hundred thousand bushels of Chesnuts, and when least 50. thousand. It also produceth Men disposed to Letters, Arms, and Merchandize, [Page 84] it stands in the midst of the Apenine Hills being surrounded with them, and hath 23. Towns under it. More forward is Pentremoli a fayr Town, twelve miles further is the strong Fort called la val di Mugello, then Bardo and Campiano, where the River Taro takes its source, and passeth at three miles distance by Borgo. Bardo
Travaling on the Via Emilia, from Parma, at the foot of the Apenines, appears the Town and Castle Chiar [...]golo, whereof the illustrious Family of the Torelli hold the Government, then in the plain Country Montechio, and San Ilario, seated on the banks of the River Lenza, over which the Countess Matilda, with great expence, built a Bridge of burnt Brick, then keeping the Emilian Way for 15. miles you arive at Reggio.
REGGIO.
THis City is built on the Via Emilia, and named Regium Lepidi, by Strabo, [...]icero, Cornelius Tacitus and other writers: By whom it was built, is not certainly known, many contending that Marius Lepidus one of the Triumvirate, (who divided the Roman Empire) was its first sounder, others that it was built long before his time, but by him made a Colony.
This City being destroyed by the Goths, under Alarico their King, Its Citizens were constrayned to abandon it, and fly to more secure places, till the Longobardi were overcome and driven out of Italy by Charls the Great, when the Citizens returning by degrees to their desolate City, began to restore it, and immure it with a strong Wall. It was governed by it self for some time in liberty after the manner of the other Cities of Italy, then twas governed by others, till it delivered it self into the hands of the Marquess of Este▪
Tis a noble City, well peopled, and abounding with all things, although the ayr is not very good. It hath fair and large streets with sum ptuous Structures, as the magnificent Church of S. Prospero, Bishop of this City, where his Corps are devoutly kept, which hath a plentifull revenue, and is adorned with excellent Pictures, but particularly with some drawn by Coreggio, worthy of eternal memory: In the Walls of the Orchard of the R. R. P. P. de servi, was lately discovered an Image of the holy Virgin, where God doth many favours to such have recourse unto him through her merits. The City contains many noble Families, as the Canossi, Manfredi, Fogliani, and Sessi, who possess great Lordships and Castles.
Near unto Reggio, stand certain Hills, who are no less beautifyed with Towns and Villages than delicate Vines and fruit Trees. Towards Parma one sees the Castle (strengthned by its site) where Matilda the Countess preserved Pope Gregory the seventh, from the snares of the Emperor Henry the fourth Enemy of the Roman Church, who afterwards repenting himself for that his crime, from thence went on his naked feet and with his b [...]re Head in the midst of Winter through Ice and Snow to the said Pope, to obtain pardon for his offence, whom his Holness courteously received and pardoned, a remarkable instance of what power that Dignity heretofore was. At this day the most noble Family of Canossa are Masters of this Castle and the others surrounding it, from which a little distance stands [Page 85] the Castles and other places of the Signori Monfredo.
Keeping the way of the Mountains, you arrive at the Countrey of Groffignana, where stands Castle Novo, which hath formerly given birth to many illustrious persons, and in our days to Giulio Urbano Doctor and Apostolick Prothonotary, who for his excellent doctrine was much esteemed by the Princes, and Cardinals of the Court of Rome, who after he had long exercised the Office of Vicar General for Cardinal Luiga Cornaro Bishop of Padoua, with grear praise in that quality, deceased in the yeer 1592. leaving an excellent example to all mortals. Whose Brother Urban, gave no less splendour to his Country, being Captain of the Militia for the Venetians. At present lives Filippo Urbano, their worthy Nephew, a Canon of the Domo or Cathedral Church of Padoua.
Returning to the Via Emilia you meet the Castle Scandiano, honoured with the title of a Marquesate, subject to the Signori Tieni, noble Vicentines, on the left hand lies the Castle Roldo, belonging to the Family Sessi a feudatorie of the Emperour, Saint Martino, Gonzaga, and Nuvilara.
Between Modena and Reggio, near the River Lenza, stands Correggio, a well-governed and honourable Castle, and well peopled, it was created a City by the Empire, and appertains to the most illustrious Family Correggio, formerly great in Padova, and called Giberto, from which heretofore issued a Cardinal, at this time Girolamo Bernero, of the preaching Order gives great honour to this Country, who was assumed to a Cardinalship by Sisto Quinto, High Bishop, for his incomparable virtue and goodness of Life, who continues a prudent lover of the virtuous, and a great Zealot for the Christian Religion. Then where the River Lecchia cuts in sunder the Emilian way, stands the ssrong Castle Rubiera, with a well-made Bulwark, enviroroned with Hills, whence travailing in a large Road, you arive at Modena.
MODENA.
THis noble City was reduced into a Colony of the Romans together with Parma, in the 570th. yeer after the building of Rome, as Livy and other Historians write, who in several places make thereof honourable mention, which testifies that in that time it was rich and powerfull, and this is also confirmed by the many inscriptions and antient Marbles which are extant up and down the same. It was enough illustrated by that notable battel which was fought near it, when Hirtio and Pansa were Consuls of Rome, the consequence whereof was the Loss of the Senates authority, and the peoples liberty, for then Mar. Antonius besieged Brutus in this City, who by the assistance of C. Octavins Caesar, obtained the victory against the said Antonius. Afterwards it suffered many ruines from the Barbarous, as Saint Ambross mentions, that he saw it with the other adjacent Places upon the Via Emilia, thrown down and derstoyed. It was layed waste by the Goths, and Longobards, who afterwards being driven out by the Emperor Charls the great, and he having established his Son Pipin King of Italy, the Sons of the Citizens of Modena assembled themselves together from their secure retirements, and took counsel how [Page 86] to rebuild this City, which in process of time they effected as is now seen, somewhat distant from the antient Modena, as Leandro more at large discourseth.
The City is small, of an orbicular form, & seated in a plain abounding with fruits, and delicate Wines. The Dukes of Estè, Alfonso the second greatly amplified this City, and raised fair edifices. In the domo they devoutly preserve rhe bones of S. Giminiano, its Bishop, for whose merits God delivered many possessed with Devils. Tis full of noble and ingenuous People, whence not only many famous Captains, Counts and Marqueses, have proceeded, but also many Cardinals, Bishops, and other prelates, with most learned men, of whom are Sadoleto and Segonio, whose works are of note to all. It continued a long time in liberty, as did the other Cities of Lumbardy, but is at present subject to the Dukes of Estè, who by their constant residence much ennoble and enrich it, they here Make Vizards and Targets, much esteemed through Italy.
Forth of Modena towards the South under the Appenines stands Formegine, Spezzano, and ten miles off it, Sassulo, a noble and civil Castle, with a sumptuous Palace of the Family of Pia, washed by the River Secchia, where stands a fair Church dedicated to the blessed Virgine, whither resort infinite People to obtain Graces. Upon the said Mountain are many other Villages and Hamlets, which also may be seen on that part of Modena towards the East.
These Castles heretofore subject to several Lords, and particularly to them of Monte, who were then very potent in these Countreys, and possessed all the placs in the Graffignana, which confines with Bologna, and among them Sestola, and Fanano. Then going Westward you see the Alpes of San Pelligrino, and the Castle Aquario famous Aquario for its Baths. After turning to the South, by these Mountains runs the Tyrrehene Sea; somewhat further near Bologna, on the Banks of the River Panaro, appears Castle Vetro, and Spilimberto, of the Signori Rangori, whence four miles you finde Vignola a Town honoured Vignola with a Marquisate, subject to the Signori Boncompagio, which Town confines with the Bolognian territories.
Towards the North is seated Correggio, at 12. miles distance, thence and somewhat further the most noble Castle or rather Imperial City Carpi, which may very well be paralleld to many Cities, both Carpi for the great and ingenuous People, and the superfluity of all things necessary. It hath the title of a Principality, and was a long time enjoyed by the Signori Pii, but is at present By the Duke of Modena.
On the Eastern part of Modena, is a Chanel upon which you may be conveied eight miles by Boat, unto Finale, then passing on the Panaro, and entring the Poe, they go to Terrara, upon the River Pinaro, Panaro where the Chanel runs into it, stand Bon Porto, and San Felice, praised for good Wines.
Along the Via Emilia, 3 miles distant from Modena, passeth the River Panaro, near which are the confines between the Modonesi, and the Bolognesi, in which place Claudius the Consul copeing with the Enemies, took 15000. Prisoners, and 700. Liguri, moreover in the same place Rotari King of the Longobardi, routed the Roman Army, and slew seven thousand of them.
[Page 87]There also the Army of the Modonesi being discomfited by the Bolognesi, Enzo King of Sardegna, Son of Frderick the second, was taken Prisoner. On the other side of the Panaro, is Novantola, with Novantola an antient and noble Monastery founded by Anselino, Kinsman of Astolfo King of the Longobards, having been a worthy Captain in their Army, and there quitting this World, created himself Captain of a thousand Monkes, endowing the place with store of Goods and Revenues, about the yeer of our Salvation 780. It was afterwards restored by the Countess Matilda, and is inhabited by many Monks, who have Jurisdiction as far as Spain, wherein are kept the body of Saint Adrian the Pope, and some part of S. Silvester, with many othet Reliques, and some antient Books, particularly the Breviary of the said Matilda.
Near the Via Emilia, between Bologna and Novantola, stands S. Agata, Agata a Castle built be Barbarossa the Emperor, and Crevalcore formerly called All [...]gra Cuore where twice the Armies of Bernabo Visconte Lord of Milan, were overthrown. Then one comes to San Giovanni, a Countrey yeelding Wheat and other Grains. On the left side of the Emilian Way, are seen Castiglione, and Casile Franco, 15. miles from Bologna, in which Territory was lately raised an inexpugnable Fort, by Pope Urban the 8th. from whose name tis denominated Urbano. Near which is the Foro de Galli, where Irtio and Pansa, the Roman Consuls fighting with M. Antonius, obtained a glorious Victory, but with it their mortal wounds whereof they both dyed in the same place: Then appear Piumanio, Bazano, and Crepellano, pleasant Castles, seated on those little Hills, at the Feet of the Apenines.
On the left side of the Emilian Way five miles distant from Bologna, is the River Lavino, and Ghironda, which joyning togeher encompass Forcelli, in a triangular form at one miles distant from the Via Forcelli Emilia, where Octavianus, Marcus Antonius, and Marcus Lepidus, parted the Monarchy between themselves, which Forcelli seems now a Peninsula, though it may be perceived to have been an Island; afterwards these two Rivers throw themselves into the Poe: About a mile before you arrive at Bologna, there is a very long Bridge, built of Stone, which reacheth from the one side of the River to the other whence to Bologna is an easiy mile.
BOLOGNA la Grassa or BOLONIA the Fatt.
BOlogna was antiently head of the 12. Cities which the Tuscans possessed on that side of the Apenines, who being driven out by the French, and the French by rhe Romans, it became a Colony of the Romans, who sent thither 3000. men to inhabit. After the Romans it was subjected to the Graecians, the Longobards, and to the Esarcato of Ravenna. Afterwards recovered liberty like the other Cities of Lumbardi, at which time the wicked factions of the Lambertazzi, and Geremei arose, and reduced it to great misery and servitude, which their sufferings caused them to recommend themselvs to the Roman chief Bishop. Afterwards to the Pepoli, Visconti, Bentivogli, and finally it wholly put it self under the wings of the Pope, who now enjoys it with peace.
It is situated at the Foot of the Apenines in the midst of the Via Emilia, [Page 88] placed according to [...]tolomeo in the 6th. Climate, at 33. degrees and a half, having the said Apenines on the South, the Via Emilia or Roman Way, on the East, and the pleasant and fertile Campagna leading to Ferrara, and Venetia on the North; At its beginning twas formed a small City, according to the accustomed manner of the Ancients, with two only Gates, the one towards Rome, the other towards Lumbardi. Afterwards in the time of Gratian the Emperour, they adjoyned two other Gates, and at the restauration, which San Petronio made (after the destruction by Theodosius) they made 9. Gates, as some say, 12. as others, where now are extant certain little Turrets called Turrosetti: At last enlarged as at this day, the said Gates were made twelve, and was so much encreased, that certain yeerspast being measured within the Walls, Its circuit was found to be 5. miles in length two miles want a quarter, and in bredth one mile, from the Port S. Mammola, to the Port Galliera.
It is formed in the similitude of a Ship, more long tha [...]broad, at one side shewing the figure of a Prow, and at the other that of a Poop having in the midst the most high Tower Asinelli, which represents the main Mast, the Tower Garisenna the Scale, and the other small Towers, the Shrouds to the eye of the beholder. Within it is no manner of fortification, the Citizens having cast down those that were, who confiding in their own valour and prudence, content themselves with a single Brick-Wall, which encompasses it; near it runs the River Savona, and through it the Reno, which serves for transportation of Merchandiz from Ferrara.
That Bologna abounds with all things is known to all, whereby they give it the stile of Fatt: Its Fields are fair and large, producing all sorts of Corn, and Wines of the best sorts in Italy, with all kinds of Fruits, particularly Olives, so bigg and sweet, that they give not place to them of Spain; it hath also Woods for Foul, and Beasts of Chase, and notwithstanding there be few Lakes, yet tis plentisully served with fish from Comacchio and Argenta.
Here (to maintain their Epithite of Bologna la grassa) they make those famous Salsages, which for their excellency are esteemed a costly dish through the World, as also a Conserve of Quince and Sugar called gelo or gelly, fit for the Table of a Prince. They here also work with great Art, Sheaths for Knives of boyled Leather, and fair Harquebuses, and Flacks or Bottels. They have great numbers of Silk-Worms, from whose labour they extract quantity of Silk, whereof they make Sarcenet, Velvet, and other Silks, in such plenty, as that they not only supply all Italy therewith, but England and the Low Countreys.
Its Territory affords many Quarries of white Stones, and great store of Hemp and Flax, some minerals of Allum, with medicinal Fountains both hot and cold.
It hath but one Piazza, which yet for its largeness, may be said to be three conjoyned, in the midst whereof stands a sumptuous marble Fountain, whereon stands a Brazen Neptune, made by Giovanni Bologna, a Flemish Sculptor, in very much excellency, whence gusheth a most clear stream of Water. It hath a general uniformity of building, having straight and spatious Streets, and on each side of them before the Houses Arches, of the same Structure, where the [Page 89] Citizens recreate themselves without fear of the scorching Sun, or the dripping Rains. There is one spatious Garden of the Poeti, & another of the Paselli. Near the Church of S. Giacomo, where now appear a good space of old rinesu, was formerly a regal Palace of the Bentivogli, (while they were Lords of Bolonia) whose Majesty and Magnificence is treated on by Beroaldo.
Tis adorned with superb and spatious Edifices, aswell for divine worship as private use; Among others the Popes Palace, over the gate whereof is the Statue of a Pope in Brass, and that of the Campeg gi, (where in the time of Giulio Terzo, the Council of the Pepoli and Malvezzi met) are of such grandure, that any Prince may be received there. The Palace which fronts the Church San Petronio, was built by the Bolonians, for a prison for Enzo King of Sardegna, where he lived, and at the cost of the publick was royally entertained for twenty yeers, till his death.
Furthermore the Citizens Houses are beautified with Vests and other things, to the pride of any others of Italy, and their Sellars so deep under ground that they apprehend no Earth-quake; The Tower Asmelli, so named from the founders, and Garisenda so called from its pendency downwards, discover the great ingenuity of the Architector.
Its principal Temples are, that of San Pietro the seat of the Bishop, where ly many Cardinals, Bishops, and other learned Doctors, with many Reliques of Saints, Pictures, Sculptures, and Ornaments of gold and Silver of high valew. The Domo which stands on the Piazza, dedicate to San Petronio, Bishop and Protector of the City, is so great and magnificent, that few Churches are equal to it; here Charls the 5th. received from Pope Clement the 7th. the Crown of the Empire: The Church of Saint Francis is well built, where Pope Alexander the 5th. a Bolonian lies buried, and Odoffredo and Accursio, two great Lights of the Civil Law; then the magnificent Monastery of San Salvidore, and the noble and rich Nunnery del Corpo di Christi, where lies enterred the blessed Catharine, who was a Nun therein, whose nails upon the hands and feet grow as if she were living: The Church of San Giacomo, with its Chapel built by Giovanni secundo Bentivoglio, was a work only for a King, wherein lies the said Bentivoglio, with many of his descendants, some of the Malvezzi, and other illustrious persons, with many Reliques of Saints, guarded in a rich and stately Altar by Cardinal Poggio.
The Church of S. Martin, where repose the bones of Beroaldo and Alexandro Achellini the Philosopher. The Church of San Giovanni, entombes an image of Cecilia the Virgin Martyr, painted by the divine Rafael of Urban, the ashes of the blessed Elena, and Carlo Raino a famous Doctor of Laws, four of these Churches Canons have been Bishops of Bologna.
The Church of Saint Stephen the Proto-Martyr, is sumptuous built by S. Petronio, where among other Reliques they shew the Ashes of S. Vitale, Agricola & Petronio. The Church of Saint Benedict, encloseth is the Body of San Proculo the Martyr, and the Cel wherein Gratian composed his Decretals. In the Church of Saint Domenick, in whose Quyer is rarely effigiated the old and new Testaments, here lies Enzo King of Sardegna in a proud Tombe, and many famous Doctors of [Page 90] Civil Laws, and Physick, as also Tadeo and Giacomo Pepoli, who some time were [...]ords of Bolonia at the high Altar may be seen many Reliques of Saints, of which are the body of San Domenick, on whose Tomb are layed more than 300. Figures of Gold and Silver, and one of the Thorns of the Crown of our Saviour, with the Bible writ ten by the hand of Esdras, in the Hebrew Tongue, in white parchment; here reposes also the Body of San Domenick the Patriark, and institutor of that Order, with many other stately Tombs, Candlesticks, Lamps, Cenfers, and other Ornaments. This Church hath a noble Convent, with many Cloysters, and Dormitories for the Fryers, aud a large Refectory excellently painted, and one of the largest Cellars of Italy; therein is likewise a Cemetory wherein to bury the Fryers. And an excellent Library, scarce any equal, none better to be found, kept and encreased dayly by the Fathers with great diligence, and here sits the Inquisition. In this Convent dwell one hundred and fifty Religious, and here they keep the publique Studies of the Sciences, which hath occasioned principally that five Popes, many Cardinals, Bishops, and holy Fathers have proceeded hence, among which were San Pietro the Martyr, San Ramundo & Egidir Foscararni Bishop of Modena, who behaved himself prudently and learnedly at the Council of Trent.
The first Bishop of Bologna was SanZama, who in the 270th. yeer after Christ first preached the Faith here, Dionisius being then Pope, whom 71. have succeeded of good Doctrine and holy conversation, of whom nine are Canonized, and two held for Saints.
Moreover from this excellent Country have Issued 6. Martyrs, 13. Confessors, 14. Men Saints, and 7. Women. It hath 179. Churches, that is 33. for the Company of Laicks, 3. Abbacies, 2. Prepositors, 2. for the Regular Priests, 24. for the Fryers, 23. Monasteries for Nuns, 10. Hospitals, 5. Priorates, 2. Collegiate Churches, and the Do [...]o, which is consecrate to Saint Peter, and giveth the title of Prince to its Bishop, with a great Revenew, with many other Churches which are either Parochials or Oratories.
The Univerfity was placed in Bologna, by Theodosins the Emperor, in the yeer of our Lord 425. and much amplified afterwards by Charles the great, and Lotario the Emperor; the first Reader of the Civil Laws here was Irnerio, induced thither by the said Lotario, since when many wise and well-read men in all sciences have proceeded hence; in the time of Giovan Andrea the Splendour of the Canon Law and A [...]one the Fountain of the civil Law, we read there were ten thousand Students in this City. Azone saies Legalium studiorum semper [...] chia [...] ten [...]it Bononia, hence tis that Gregory the 9th. directed his decretals to the Univerfity of Bolonia and Boniface the 8th. Sisto, and [...] the 24th. the Book of the Clementines.
The Fabrick of the University is very proud, with a large Hall and spatious Courts. In the City are many Colleges for several Nations, and to speak its praises in one word, tis a most happy University, and merits that Character which all men give it, viz. ‘Bononia docet, & Bononia mater Studiorum.’
The City contains 80000. Souls, among them many noble Families, with many titled, as Dukes, Marqueses, Counts, Captains of War, besides infinite Scholars.
[Page 91]Its Riches are great and equally divided among the Citizens, whence tis that they alwaies preserved a good reputation. It fought with Federick Barbarossa, and took his Son Enzo Prisoner, maintaining him splendidly for 22. yeers. It subjugated more than once, Forli, Imola, Faenza, Cesena, Cervia, and other places. It gloriously maintained a War against the Venetians, for 3. yeers together, with an Army of forty thousand men, and had some Families very potent, as may appear by that of the Lambertazzi, who being banished with all its followers, out of Bologna, in the yeer 1274. they say that what with Men, Women, and Servants, they who by that decree went out, amounted to the number of fifteen thousand persons.
The Burroughs and Suburbs of BOLONIA.
FOrth of Bolonia, towards the West, at the Foot of the Mountains, is the Church of San Giofesso, and the Monastery of the Certonisi. Upon the top of the Mountain Guardia, is reverenced an Image of the blessed Virgin drawn by the hand of S. Luke. Out of the Gate towards the Emilian Way, there is a noble Monastery of the Crutched Fryers, and towards the South the Church Misericordia, where reside the reverend Fryers of Saint Augustine. Out of the Gate San Mammolo, is a Monastery of the Jesuites, and upon the hill is the miraculous Madonna del Monte, a Church of the Benedictine Fryars, where are the natural essigies of Bassarione and Nicholo Perotto.
Towards the East is the Church of San Vittore, placed among the Hills, where Bartolo the most learned Doctor, resided 3. yeers as it were unknown, near which are stately Palaces. Without the City also stands San Michelle in bosco, upon a hill, with a rich and proud Monastery. The Church is garnished with fair Colums, Statues, and Sculptures of Marble, and sumptuous Altars with rare pictures, the Quire with excellent Land skips, there is a stately Library, & refectory with excellent Pictures drawn by Vasari among, them the essigies of Clement the 7th. in the Cloyster lies buried Antonio di Butrio, a Doctor of Laws, and Ramazzotto, a valourous Captain in the Wars. Its apportments are excellent Architecture, and its gardens most delitious, from which Monastery, besides the City and Territory of Bolonia, you have a full prospect of the pleasant Country of Lumbardy so much commended by Polibius, in the second book of his histories, as also of those Snowy hills the Alps, which appear like Clouds, the Adriatic Sea, and the mouth of the Poe, which runs into the Sea by many branches, and likewise of Mantoua, Ferrara, Imola, Mirandola, and other surrounding places, which seem as so many fair Roses and flowers dispersed over those Fields.
The Teritory of BOLOGNA.
TRavailing out of Bologna, South-West, you meet with the most antient Monastery or Priorate of Santa Maria del Reno, whence have proceeded [...] Popes, with many Cardinals, Bishops, Saints, and other Religious. Then turning on the left hand towards the Apenines, and keeping the River Reno, on the right, you arrive at the Bridge Casale [...]chio, a little farther you see the Chiesa, which is a [Page 92] Wall traversing the Reno from sidè to side, to force the Water down a Chanel, cut artificially to Bologna, for the driving certain Engines and Mils for grindidg Corn, for making Vessels of Copper, and Arms for War, for beating of Spices, and Galnuts, for twisting of Silks, for burnishing of Arms, and for edging of divers Instruments, [...]orm king of Paper, sawing of Planks, and divers other Mysteries, and in the end to convey the Barks to Malelbergo▪ and thence on the Poe, to Ferrara. Then you enter the Vale Reno, between the River and the Hills, which is most productive of all Grains and Fruits, in which Valley stands the magnificent Palace of the Rossi, a Palace for R [...]ssi its capaciousness and delights fit to lodge an Emperor; on the Hill near it is the Town Colossina, w ch. before you can a [...]cend you must pass Colossina under a Rock by a way cut thorow with Iron, on the left hand beholding a prodigious hollow, through which the [...]eni passeth. Then you [...]ind Panico, a Town a long time possessed by the Family o [...] Panico, Panico which at this day is wholly extinct. More forward one discovers a fair Plain called Misano, and in it certain foot-steps of Edifices, and other Antiquities, pursuing which way you arrive at the Town Vergata, the seat of the Captain who hath Jurisdiction over the Inhabitants Vergata of the adjacent Villages, and is di [...]ant 15. miles from Bolonia. When [...]e travailing on the right hand, shew themselves Cesio, Barghi, and Cas [...]lighone, Castles of the Signori Pepoli, near whereto are B [...]aghi the confines of the Florentine Territories, but on the right h [...]nd along the Banks of the Reno, are the Baths of Porretta, where from Porretta Rocks gush out hot Waters very medicinal, whose virtue is manifested to all by the Proverb which saies Chi beve l'acqua della Borr [...]tta, [...] che lo [...]pazza, ò che lo netta, thence taking the right-handway, you enter the Graffignana treated of diffusely before.
Taking the Way through the Gate Galliera, towards Ferrara, you meet Cor [...]icella, then pussing the Bridge over the Reno you see San Georgio a Castle ten miles off Bologna, where leaving the Castles Cento and Pieve, on the left, appears Poggio, appertaining to the noble Family Lambertini, intending then for Ferrara you must keep the direct Poggio Road.
On the right hand of which Way near the Canale, lies Bentivoglio, a [...]umptuous Palace with a Tower in the midst of a strong Fort, whence sayling down the Canale in Boats, called Sandoli, one passeth B [...]trio by Malalbergo, an Inn infamous by name and Deeds, Bottifredi a Tavern, Minerbo a Town, and Butrio a Castle, whose Countrey affords plenty of Hemp, which for its length and strength is much esteemed at Venice, and by them used for Cordage for their Vessels. Near the Emilian way towards the East, stand Molinella a Palace, Boloniali Valti, a Village, Medicina a Castle, and Ricardina a Town, between Rièardina which was fought that sharp battail by the Army of Bartlomeo Cogliono agaiust that of Galeazzo Sforza Son of the Duke Francesco, wherein the said Bartolomeo, remained Conqueror, and near hereto, lies the Valley Argenta, and the Castle Guelfo, where begin the Territories of Imola. Guelfo
On the Via Emilia towards Romagna [...] five miles off Bologna on the right hand lie most pleasant Hills, beautified with Palaces, Gardens and Fruit Trees, and some Woods of Juneper the harbour of much Foul, which Hills afford the sweetest and largest Olives of [...]taly, not at all inferiour to them of Spain. Near w ch. lies the Way leading to Florence. [Page 83] Near the Emilian Way also runs the River Savena, over which is built a Bridge of Brick, not far from which are discovered the ruines of another stately Bridge, which was raised at the cost of the Countess Matilda. On the right hand appear the feet of the Apeniues, with some Hills embellished with Towns and Villages. On the left is a good and fertile Plain, and the Road to Ferrara, and on one side Quaterna of the Emilian Way, are the Ruines of the Antient City Quaterna, which was destroyed by the Bolonians, in the yeer 385. after a long Battail, and on the other side is the Castle Butrio, ten miles off which you finde the River Selero, over which is a Bridge of stone; near which stands the Castle San Pietro, built by the Bolonians, whose Fields afford San Pietro plenty of Grain, Flax, and Fruit, and the Ferry no less gain; on the right hand of Selero, stands Dozza, a Castle endowed with the Dozza title of a Count, belonging to the Family Campeggi in Bolonia, and Paradello a Convent of the Fryers of the third order of San Francesco, called Minimi, built with wonderfull cost and Artifice by Pope Giulius the second, tis thence to Imolo a mile
Having perused all the Territory of Bologna, nothing remains but the number of People, which what in the Territories with the Cities and Burroughs amount to 207797. Souls.
The Gests or Journies from BOLOGNA to FLORENCE, SIENNA, and ROME
TO go to Florence, you must travail South-East, out of the Gate S. Steffano, through a pleasant, and fertile Country, wherein rise some Hills, and having gone ten miles, you arrive at Pianora, a Town filled with Hosteries, then at Loiano, among the sharp Hills, Pianora somewhat farther lies Scara, a place much honoured by its Countryman Scarao Romasciato, a famous Souldier, Petra Mala, & Fiorenzuola, a new Castle built by the Florentines: Thence after passing the River, you must gain the top of the Apenines through a rough and laborious way having no repose in all that Straight three miles passage, till the arival at a little Hostery at the very top, on the left hand of which passage lies a profound Vally, so deep and so horrid, that it many times turns the brain of the Traveller to behold it, & hath occasioned some those in staggering whimses, to fall down to their inevitable ruine. Descending from whence you attain Scarperia, so called from its site, Scarperia on the slopeness of the Apenines, whence the eye may behold the lovely places of Tuscany: Finally having travalled fifty miles from Bologna you reach Florence.
Fiorenzala Bella. FLORENCE the Fair.
FLorence doth not boast it self much of antiquity, being foundedbut an inconsiderable time before the Triumvirate, & divers are the opinionsabout its building, some will have it built by the Fiesolani, who considering the difficulty & sharpness of the ascent, & descent of the Mountain whereon Fiesole was built, by little and little abandoned Fiesole, and built their habitations in the plain neár the Banks of Arno, [Page 94] Others say by the Fl [...]entines who here dwelt. As to its name, it was called Florence, either from its so great felicity, in the suddainness of its increase, like a Flower to its perfect beauty, or for that it was made a Colony to Rome, the Flower of the World. Tis seated in a plain, and is cut through in two parts by the River Arno. Tis compassed on the East and Northparts, in the likeness of a half Theatre by pleasant Hills, and on the West it hath a glorious Plain, extending it self forty miles broad, placed between Arezzo & Pisa, a [...]d is secured from the force of the Enemy by the Ap [...]nines; tis five miles in compass, and rather of a long than circular Form. Heretofore it had 4 principal Gates, and 4 Postern [...]s, when also it had 62. Towers the habitations of Gentlemen. Afterwards it was in great part destroyed by Attila King of the Goths, who slew some of the Citizens. After which the Walls were cast down by the Fiesola [...]i, and the barbarous, which molestations, enforced the [...]ltizens to quit it and retreat to adjacent Castles, and so it remained wholy deprived of inhabitants till the year of the Incarnation of our Lord 802. When Charles the great from his Crownation as Emperor at Rome, returning for France, stayed there some daies, and the place being agreable to him he gave beginning to the Walls, and therein erected 150 Towers, one hundred braces or Yards in the heighth, and enjoyned all the dispersed Citizens to re-inhabit it; from that time it augmented daily, and was governed in Liberty, being (for all that) many times infinitely perplexed with the wicked Factions of the Neri▪ and Bianchi, the Guelfi, and Gibelli [...]i.
Antiently their Government was thus. They created two Consuls for one year, giving them a Senate of one hundred Fathers wise men, afterwards this Order changed, and ten Citizens elected calling them Antiani, which order was also several times changed, through the differences between the Gentlemen and Citizens, and the Citizens and common people.
The Citizens by their Ingenuity heaped up much Riches, and that made their pride so great, that the one would not give place to the other. It subdued many Ciities of Tusea [...]y and Romagn [...], particularly Pisa a potent Republick is at present under one sole Prince with it.
The sereness and goodness of the Ayr generates many good Wit [...] there, and their Ingenuity procures great Riches. It is divided (as aforesaid) by the Arno, over which are built four magnificent Bridges. It hath plenty of all things, from the environing Hills, Plains, and the navigable River. It stands as it were in the heart of Italy, is the constant residence of its Prince, and its people are so industrious that there is scarce a Merchandizing City in the World without some Florentine Merchants, which gave occasion to Pope Boniface the XI. to say that the Florentines were the 5th. Element; no City in Europe (except Rome) produced more Architectors, Painters, and Sculptors than this, whence tis that it abounds with admirable Palaces, Temples, Pictures, and Statues, upon one of the Bridges is the GoldSmiths Street, upon another of stately structure the seasons of the year, in Marble. Opposite to this stands a Column of an immense bigness, and upon the top thereof a Statue of Justice in Porphire, which Cos [...]s the first great Duke raised as a Trophe in that place, for that walking for pastime, the newes there first reached him of the great [Page 95] Victory which the Marquess Marignano, obtayned over Pietro Strozzi, in the yeer 1555 and with it Sienna, near it is the Palazzo de Strozzi, no less to be admired for the immensity of its Fabricks, than for its rude Architecture. Here on the right lies the Merchants vault supported with fayr Pillars, and before it a Brasen Bore, casting forth Water; strait on is the Piazza Maggiore, or great place, in the midst whereof is the Statue of Cosmus the great Duke on Horse back in Brass with this inscription on each side of the Basis. ‘Cosmo Medici Magno, Etruriae Duci Primo, Pio, Felici, Invicto, Iusto, Clementi, Sacrae Militiae, Pacisque in Etruria Authori, Patri, & Principi Optimo, [...] F. Mag. Dux, Ma [...]. Dux I. I. I. erexit. An. CIC. ICLXXXXIV.’ behind this, ‘Profligatis hostibus, in deditionem acceptis Senensibus. Plenis liberis Sen. Fl. Suffragiis Dux Patriae renunciatur. Ob. Zelam Religionis praecipuumque Iustitiae Studium.’
Between which Horse and the Piazzo Vecchio, is a Fountain, and round about its Laver the Family of Neptune, with his Coloss of Marble in the midst; bore up by sour Horses, the whole not to be paralleld, much less excelled by humane Art.
The Porch in the same Piazza is remarkeable for its Arch and Statues, one whereof is of Iudith in Brass, and in another stone are pourtrayed three persons, in several postures, cut all out of the same stone representing the Rape of the Sabines.
Opposite unto the Piazza stands the Royal Palace of the Duke, at the entrance into which, stands a Colossus of David, made by Michael Angelo, and another of Hercules treading on [...]acus; within is a stately Coutt set about with Pillars of Corinthian Work, and over them painted the famous deeds of Cosmus the great Duke and all the places subject unto that Dutchy, above them is a spatious Hall with divers Statues, among them one of Pope Leo the tenth, another of Pope [...]lement the seventh, both of the Family of the Medicies, from whence the Dukes Gallery invites a view, in the lower story whereof sit the Courts of Justice, with an Arcade to walke in, on each side above are the shops of the Dukes Artisans, In the uppermost p [...]t are preserved as many wonders as things, some to be admired for their richness, rarity, and Art, others for their antiquity, On each side of the Gallery are placed above 80. Statues, among them that of the Idol brought from the Temple of Apollo at Delphos with this verse on the Pidestal.
And that of Scipio Africanus, holding up his Gown under his Arm are most admirable, over the Statues hang the Pictures of the most famous Scholars and Souldiers of the modern times.
At the right hand of this Gallery are several Stanzaes of Curio [...]ities which none can behold without astonishment at the richness and variety of observeable things.
[Page 96]In the first Room, stands the Tabernacle or Altar destined for St Laurence Chapel, all of choice Marble, compacted with Jewels and pretious stones of an inestimable valew.
In the second is a Table with flowers and Birds in their natural Colours of pretious Stones, with a Cabinet of 200000. Crowns in valew within which is the passion of our Saviour with the twelve Apostles all carved in Amber.
In the third is a Cabinet with Calcidon Pillars filled with antient Medals of Gold, and round about infinite other natural and artificial curiosities, amongst them the Nayl turned half into Gold by Alchimy, and the Emperors head cut on a Turquoise, as big as a Walnut; next is the Armory, and therein the habits and divers sorts of Arms of several Ages and People, amongst them the King of Chinaes habit, Hannibals Head-piece, and Charlemains Sword. And likewise a Magnet which attracts & supports fourscore pound weight of Iron.
In the la [...]t, is the curious Turnery of Ivory, and a Pillar of Oriental Alablaster, and in the Gardrobe are 12. Cubbards of Silver Plate, and a service of Massie Gold, and a Saddle embroidered all over with Pearls and Diamonds, which with many other inestimable curiosities (a theme copious enough for a volume) declare the Wealth of this Prince equal with any Kings in Christendom
From the said Gallery is a Corridor or private passage (wherein is an admirable brass Statue of Perseus) to the proud Palace Pitti. on the other side of the River, where the Duke keeps his Court. Its Front is very Majestique, towards the basis of Dorick work, in the midst Ion [...]k, in the uppermost Corinthian. In the Court is a Grot with Statues, and a Magnet of a prodigious greatness, and over [...] Fountain. Its Gardens are most spatious, embellished with Groves, Walk [...], Labirynths, Fountains, wherein are Swans, Ostriches, Dee [...], Hares, and all other recreative Creatures. It also hath a Seraglio, wherein his Highness maintains all sorts of Savage Creatures in their several Stanzaes, as Lyons, Bears, Wolves, Tygres, &c. which according to their several species there breed, and are placed in such order that all resorting beholders are astonisht at it.
The Streets are large, long, and strait; paved with Flint, and on each side of them are many stately Palaces, bedecked with rare statues, Fountains, &c. by which with its other singularities hath the City acquired the Surname of Florence the fayr.
The Ch [...]rches are so much beautifyed, with the design of Architecture, Sculpture, Picture, and other Curiosities, that who should describe them particularly must write a volume, yet the wonderfull Temple Santa Maria del Fiore, must not be passed in silence, where Filino and Giotto, two excellent men in Limning and Architecture ly buried. Therein are the twelve Apostles cut in Marble by the most excellent Sculptors of that Age. The stupendious Cupola (adorned with the pieces of Vasari and Zucharo, famous painters) erected by Francesco Brunelesco at that heighth is so large that the brass Globe at top will contain 16. persons, the Steeple is all built with incomparable Marble stones and garnished with Statues, wrought by those famous Statuaries in emulation one of another. Before which stands the Babtistery built in an Octogon, antiently the Temple of Mars, herein stands that Egregious Vessel or Font of pretious Stones wherein [Page 97] they baptize their Infants, whose four Gates of Brass are esteemed without their equal. Herein Baldessar Gossa once Pope of Rome (deposed from the Papacy, at the Council of Costanza) lies buried in an artificial Sepulcher of Brass made by Donatello, with his essigies and these Letters. Balthasar Cossa, olim Ioannes vigesimus tertius.
The noble Temple Santa Maria Novella, for its marvellous Structure may be compared to any other of Italy, which Michael Angelo was wont to call his Venus.
Among its other notable things appears the Sepulchre of the Patriarchs of Constantinople who subscribed to the Council celebrated under Eugenius the fourth, near to which Church adjoyns the sumptuous Monastery for the Fryers, wherein were celebrated certain sessions of A general Council, in the presence of the Latin and Greek Church, the Pope, the Emperor and four Patriarkes.
The Mirrour of Art and wonder of this Age Saint Laurence Chapel is so glorious, that who enters must imagine himself in some place above terrestrial, which is overlayed with fine polisht Stones, of all colours upon Earth dugg up within the Dukes Territories, twas built by Cosmo Medici, and in the midst of this Church stands his Sepulchre with this Epitaph, Decreto, publico, Patri Patriae, with many other sumptuous tombs, therein also is a Library (not despicable) founded by Pope Clement the 7th▪ the Church Santa Croce hath a most stately Pulpit, in it is the sumptuous Sepulchre of Leonardo Aretino, and the Temple of Michael Angelo Bonorota, made by his own hand. Over his Urn stand those three Arts he was so renowned for; bewailing the loss of their Patron. Herein also is a fayr Organ, set up at the charge of Cosmus the great Duke, the very manufacture whereof cost 4000. Crowns. The Church Santo Spirito, is built with the strict rules of Architure, and supported by vast long Columns of Stone, and hath a fair Cloyster for the Iacobins, which was painted by the Greeks, before the Italians knew that Art. The graceful Fabrick of the Monastery of Saint Mark, hath a gracefull Chapel for the Signori Salviati, wherein is the Tombe of Saint Antonio Arch-Bishop of Florence, and there one may read this Epitaph of [...]icus Mirandola an eminent Scholar.
The Annunciade, is a place of great Devotion, whither every season resort infinite people to a Madenna, drawn by the hand of Saint Luke, tis a magnificent Temple filled with ornaments of Gold and Silver Statues, gemmes and other rich gifts, it hath a sumptuous Monastery, and in it a fair Library and St [...]dy. There are many fayr Churches which for brevity sake are omitted. It hath 37. Hospitals, 44. Parish Churches, 12 Priorates, 54. Monasteries of Nunns, 24. of Fryers, with other Confraternities of Children in great number, whence as also from the infinite number of Fryers of all Orders in this City, we may collect, that the Florentines are more enclined to Religion, than any other People of Italy.
This renowned Country hath been the Birth-place of many excellent Ingenuities, who have not onely been a glory to it, but to all [Page 98] Italy. Some whereof follow Saint Antonio, Arch-bishop of Florence, St. Gionan Gualbarto, St. Andrea Carmelitano, St Filippo de Servi, with others, who have either instituted new Religious Orders, or reformed the old. Four Popes, Leon the 10th. Clement the 7th. Leon the 11th. of the Family of the Medici, and Clement the 8th. of the house of Aldobrandini, with many other Cardinals, Bishops and other Prelates of the Court of Rome, many excellent Captains in War, among them Pietro Strozzi, grand Marshal of France. And infinite Persons excelling in Letters, as Dante, Petrarca, Bocacccio, Caval [...]ante, Beniviedi, Politiano, Crinito, Ficino, Palmerio, Passavanti, Dino del Garbo, a Physician, Macchiavel Accucsir, Glossatori, Donato Acciaivolo. And for Painters, Sculptors, and Architectors, it hath produced so many, that we may say those Arts are to them proper and connatural. [...] hath two Accademies, one for Painting, the other for the vulgar Tongue, whereof the Florentines are heads and Masters. We must not omit one good Argument of their state Abilities, which was that at one instant in the time of Pope Boniface the 9th. there resided 13. Florentines, as Embassadors from divers Princes at Rome. It hath several noble Families, whereof some are gone into France, where they dwell with Titles and Principalities, others to Venice, and others to Rome, who all live in honour. The City contains 85. thousand Souls.
For eight miles round about the City, there seems another Florence so full are the Fields speckled with Country Seats, some for publick use, as the sumptuous Monastery called the Abba [...]y of Fiesole, founded by Cosmo Medici, the Monastery of Saint Domenick, which yet retains the Episcopal Seat, one walk of Pyne Trees two mile long, and another of Cipreses leading to Pioggio, with many more. And others for private as Pratolino, much spoken of, which Francesco the great Duke Pratolin [...] built, adorning it with Palaces, Statues, Pictures, and Fountains, so well contrived and disposed that tis worthily esteemed one of the pleasant places of Italy.
Two miles forth of Florence at the Foot of the Apenines, appears Fiesole some Footsteps of the ancient City Fiesole, where formerly the Southsayers, and fortune tellers inhabited. It was antiently of that power, that it gave assistance to Stilicone, the Roman Captain, for the destruction of the Goths, whereof were then slain above one hundred thousand. The premises considered, we may conclude there is no Province in Italy more furnisht with delightfull and well-peopled Cities, than that of the Great Duke, whose Ancestors by uniting the States of three Republicks together, to wit, Pisa, Florence, and Siena, doth now entirely possess all Tuscany, the nobler part of Italy, his Revenue exceeds 100000. pound sterl. per. Annum.
SCARPERIA.
ON the way which leads to Bologna stands Scarperia, being 16 miles from Vlorence, noted for Knives, Cizers, and other such like things, there made. And among those Mountains lies the most fruitfull Mugello, Whose Inhabitants, are called Mugellini. Here Cosmus Mugello retreated for his delight, when he was solemnly styled Duke of Flouence, commanding a Fort and Palace to be built and environed them within a spatious Wall, wherein he kept wilde beasts for the Chase. [Page 99] More forwards lies the Way to Faenza, and Romagna, near it begins the Cresentino, contained between the Ronta and Ar [...]o, reaching to Arezzo, well peopled and very fertile. And from the higest Mountains, you may look down into the Vally Ombrose where Giovanni Gualberto a Florentine, gave beginning to the Order named Religione di Valle Ambrosa, in the yeer of our Lord 1070. and also into Umbria.
On the North-East part lies the Palace Poggio, of the great Dukes, a house swarming with Statues, and rarities, and a Park for Beasts of Chase, where is also a Fortezza. And opposite to it lies the noble Castle Prato accounted one of the first four of Italy, here they make bread white as Snow, and here they keep with great devotion the Garter of the Virgin Mary, a little more near the Apenines, is Monte Murlo, much spoken of for the taking those Florentines, which fled out of Florence, and there embodied, by Alessandro Vitelli, Captain for Cosmus the Duke, which secured his Principality.
PISTOIA.
AFter which, entring a lovely Plain, you meet the City Pistoia, twenty miles off Florence, which though little, is neatly compact and rich, and would have been better, had it not much groned under the factions of its own Citizens. Twenty miles of Pistoia stands Lucca, which governs it self in Liberty, and by the strength of its Wall, the Richness of Trade, and the Industry of its own Citizens, maintains it self well with all things necessary, tis an antient City, and was made a Colony of the Romans. Desiderius the King built its strong Walls which with its site enabled it to endure a six moneths siege by Narsetes; towards the Sea, stand yet the footsteps of the Temple of Hercules, the River Serchio, runs close by Lucca, whence the famous baths of Italy are ten miles distant. Lucca
Out of Florence towards the West in that spatious Plain, stands the Castles Empoli, and Fucecchio, there is also a Lake of that name, as also San Miniato al Todesco so called for that twas built by certain Germans under Desiderius their King,
PISA.
COasting the River Arno, you attain Pisa, an antient City built long before Rome by the Grecians, and was one of the 12 Cities of Tuscany, it was powerfull at Sea, and obtained many victories against the Genovesi, it subdued Cartagine, conquered the Island of Sardegna, and delivered its King Prisoner to the Pope. It recovered Palermo in Sicilia out of the hands of the Sarazens who had long enjoyed it, it slew the Sarazen King of Majorca. It sent 40 Galleys in assistance to Almerico, King of Ierusalem, against the Sarazens, who possessed Alexandria. It greatly assisted the Popes in their adversity. It was so potent, happy, and rich, that Saint Thomaso treating of the four things, reckons it among the four most potent Cities of Italy. But from that time that at the instance and request of Frederick Barbarossa, it captivated so many Prelates of the Romi [...]h Church, & two Cardinals which came from France to the Lateranian Council, it only decayed [Page 100] from bad to worse, till it lost Liberty and Power, yet in process of time by the residence of the Knights of S. Stefano, and the University, it recovered and still preserves the Countenance of an honourable City, Plato will have it well situated, being four miles then (now eight) from the Sea, so that tis not placed upon the Sea shore, but near it, not upon the Mountains but near them, in a Plain just so divided from the royal River Arno, as Plato fancies his City. Tis endowed with four things which create wonder, the Church of Saint Iohn, the Domo, the Steeple, and [...]ampo Santo, which was raised with that very holy Earth, which they brought home in their Galleys, when 50 of them were sent to assist the Emperor in the recovery of the holy Land. On one side of it lies Lucca, on the other Livorgeo, or Ligorne. Twas destroyed by the Florentines, in the yeer 1509.
Intending from Florence to Siena, you must go out at the Porta Romana, through which Charles the fifth entred after his Victory in Africk, and so passing by the Monastery Certosini, attain Cassano, Tavernelli, and Staggia, by a direct way, having pleasant hills and fruitfull Valleys, on each side. In the way appears the Castle Certaldo, the Birth-place of Giovani Boccaccio, the Prince of Tuscan Poets, who dyed in the 62. yeer of his Age in the yeer of our Lord 1375. and was interred in a Marble Tombe in the Domo of Certaldo with this Epitaph.
Somewhat further stands the Bourg Saint Geminiano, famous for its good wine Vernace. Tis adorned with fair Churches, noble Palaces, illustrious persons, and a gentle people, built by Desiderius King of the Longobardi. Westward from which lies the antique City Volterra, which was founded 100. yeers before the firing of Troy, and 500. before the building of Rome, tis built on a hill, the ascent to whose top is 3 miles, its Walls are of squared stones, 6 foot long, layed & cemented without Mortar, It hath five gates & before each a Fountain of clear water & within them two other stately Fountains with many antiēt statues & on thē old Epitaphs, it hath a rich Territory, is subject to the great Duke, it produced Persio the poet, and divers other wits, beyond it lies the Sea. On its left hand lies Ancis [...] the Country of St. Francis the Patriark, Fighine and other good places.
AREZZO.
TRavailing towards the East, you meet Arezzo, accounted one of the antient twelve. The Aretines contributed 30000. Crowns as many Celades with other Kinds of Weapons to the Romans, and 120000. bushels of Wheat to furnish the Armada of 40 Galleys, which was to convoy Scipio against the Carthaginians. It hath suffered many and many calamities, but with the government of Cosmus the great Duke, it began to take breath and restore it self. Pliny saies their Vessels of Earth were in his time esteemed the best of Italy. San Donato its Bishop was there Martyred in the time of Valentinian the Emperor, who baptized L. Zembio the Tribune, and then endowed [Page 101] the Church of Arezzo wherein lies buried S. Loren [...]o and Pellegrino, brothers and Martyrs, and Gregory the 10th. chief Bishop; the house of Petrark, is yet to be seen; there begins the State of the Poggibonzi Church. On the direct way to Siena, stands Poggibonzi, a place noted for the perfumed Tobacco composed there, which the Italians take as profusely in powder as the English in pipes, as also Ascia, and near it Siena.
SIENA Paolo V.
THis City was named Siena, from the Galli Senoni, who resided there under Brennus their Captain, and built it on the back of the hill Tuffo, twas made a Colony by the Romans, and afterwards underwent the same misery with the other Cities of Tuscanie, In process of time it recovered liberty, and therewith its former emulation with Florence, against whom it fought and obtained a glorious victory, after which it became subject to the Petrarci, its own Citizens, whome discarding it continued a free State till the yeer 1555. when the great Duke recovered it. Its ayr is very good and wholesome. Its Inhabitants very courteous, who profess and speak the purity of the Italian Language. without the Porta Romana, the City appears with a great deal of Majesty, being beautifyed by the many Towers raised in honour of such persons as performed some eminent service for the Common▪ Wealth, among these Towers (which yet retein the memory of its former freedome) that of Mangio, surpasseth for heighth, which though founded in the bottom of the Piazza out tops all the City, and serves for a Clock-house; from its top is an incomparable prospect to the confines of Tuscany; at the foot of this hideous structure is a Marble Chapel to which adjoyns the Senate house built by the Goths, at one end whereof stands a column bearing Remus and Romulus sucking a Wolfe in Brass, the Arms of this City: Its Piazza lies in the heart of the City, so formed, that whosoever passeth over it must be seen by all: In the midst of it is a Marble Fountain whence issues sweet Water out of the Wolves mouth: The whole City is paved with Brick: The houses are for the most part built of Brick alla Moder [...]a, the chiefest is that proud Palace built of squared stones by the Pope Pius the second and the Arch-Bishop, who is of the Family of the Picolomenies,
Among its Churches the Domo dedicated to the Virgin Mary is worth noting, for though in comparison of others in Italy it be but small, yet for the pains and charges which it must have cost, tis inferiour to none, being both without and within of black and white Marble. The Facade is admirably garnished with Statues, about the inside are the heads of all the Popes. The Pulpit is an unparalleled piece, beset with figures of Marble; but its singularity [...] lies in the Pavement, wherein many parts of the sacred history are so lively represented in several colours of Marble, that no pencil can come near it, though many Masters take pattern from those figures in stones: In it is a Chapel, wherein is kept the Arm of Saint Iohn Baptist given to a Pope by the King of Pelopo [...]esus.
In the royal Church of Saint Domeni [...]k in Campo Regio, is kept the head of Santa Caterina of Siena, and many Bodies of Saints, and near [Page 102] to it stands the Hospital where Pilgrims may have their full refreshment for several daies, wherein is remarkeable the diligence of the Attendants, in satisfying the Appetites & necessities of the poor and infirm; in the Chapel lies the Founder B. Susorius, as yet uncorrupted though ninehundred yeers since he dyed.
The Walls of Siena are of an exceeding compass yet but slight stocked with caper Trees, that Fruit growing best in Morter.
The City was reduced to the Faith of Christ by S. Ansano a Roman Citizen, who was afterwards beheaded; It particularly hath a great devotion to Santa Maria the Mother of God, as appears by the Motto round their Common Seal. ‘Salve Virgo, Senam Veterum, quae cernis amaenam.’
Many illustrious Men hath this City afforded, as Saint Bernard the restorer of the Order of Minorites, the blessed Giovanni Colombino first Institutor of the Jesuites Order, Saint Ambrogio de'Bianconi, the Institutor of the Canons Regulars and of the Monks of Mount Olivet. Four Popes, as Alexander the third, who by his pious life and exceeding patience overcame four Anti-Popes, set up against him by Frederick Barbarossa, Pius the first, and Pius the second of the Family Picolomini, and Paolo Quinto of the Borghesi, with many Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates, and Doctors, in all the Sciences most famous.
The Countrey about Siena is filled with all sorts of great Chase, so that Wilde Bore and other Venison in its season is commonly sold in Butchers shops. Its Territory is very pleasant and fruitfull, and in a word the City is one of the principal in Italy▪
On the left hand at twelve miles distance Mount Oliveto discovers Mount Olivet it self, much spoken of for the order of white Fryers of Oliveto taking its ri [...]e there, whereon is built a sumptuous Abbacy, and therein dwell a vast number of Monks devoted to the service of God, whence (the river also being past) you finde San Querico, so called from a Church dedicated to that Saint, and Radicofano, where Desiderius Radicofano King of the Longobardi built a strong Fort, and the great Duke another, to whom they are now subject; here ends the patrimony which the Countess Matilda consigned the Church, whereof Viterbo is head. Between San Quirico and the Banks of the River Orica, stands the City Pienza, the Countrey of Pope Pius the second, and so calbed Pienza from his name. Further upon a high and rough Mountain stands Chiusi, one of the twelve Cities of Tuscany, where Porsenna King Chiuse of the Tuscans, was buried, who there built a Labyrinth, wherein who entred without a clew of thread, was certainly buried; at present this City is depopulated. Monte Pulciano
Somewhat farther towards the North is Monte Pulciano, a City not very antient, but populous and rich; seated in a delightfull Country abounding with all things desireable. It gave birth to Marcellus the second chief Roman Bishop, and Cardinal Bellarmine, who wrote acutely upon the disputed controversies of all the Heresies; beyond which are many delightfull places▪
On the other side of the Road which goes from Quirico near the River Arbia, are the Baths of Petriolo, and the mouth of the River Asso, near which are many fayr Bourgs, and the Maremma of Siena, [Page 103] wherein is the City Grossetto, in the Jurisdiction of Siena, well fortified Grossetto by the great Duke, and Montamata, where are great plenty of Acorns, and grain to dy Scarlet; under these Mountains lies the Bourg Santo Fiore, much honoured by the illustrious house of the Sforzaes, where they have a Stately Palace, together with large possessions and Lands for hunting and other pastimes.
The Traveller is many times obliged to pass the River Paglia in this Journey, which sometimes is dangerous, on the other side of which lies Aquapendente, (so called from its site, on the hanging of a hill, and by it runs a rapid stream) San Lorenzo, and Bolsena a good Town built Bolsena out of the ruines of the antient City named Urbs vulfimensium, then accounted one of the twelve chief ones of Etruria. Its Territory is very fertile, as may appear by the Olive Trees bearing in the first yeer planting according to Pliny: Here they reverenced the Body of the Virgin San Christina, who being cast into the Paglia, for the faith, thence returned without the least hurt, leaving the track and impression of her Foot on the ground, which appears to this day; here also happened the great miracle of the consecrated hoast, which being in the hands of the Priest, (who doubted the truth of it) of a suddain bled extreamly, and so all bloody was carried to Orvieto, where with great honour tis preserved in the Domo; in the River is an Island delightsome and fertile, and a little Church Mauseolum or burying place of the Farnesi; here the prudent and religious Queen Amala sunta was wickedly slain, at the command of Theodato King of the Ostrogoths, whose gravity and sweetness of speech was such, that arguing with condemned persons on death, she so much convinced them of the good, that they little feared the punishment of it.
On the left side of the said Lake is Orvieto, Cagnarea, and Tevere all Cities. On the right the City Soana, the birth place of Pope Tevere Soana Gregory the 7th. at present almost uninhabited, Petigliano, and Farneso, appertainning to the noble Family of Farnesi in Rome; somewhat further is the City Castro, of the said Farnesies, so surrounded with Rocks and Cavernes, that it appears to the Enterers rather an obscure Castro Den for wilde beasts, than habitations for Men.
From whence walking towards the Sea, you finde Orbello, Talamoni, Orbello Monte Argentaro, and Port Ercole, all stately places subject to the King of Spain. On whose right-hand they shew the noble Castle Tuscanello, Tuscanello subject to the See of Rome, so antient, that (if it be permitted to beleeve them) they say it was built by Askanius Son of Eneas, and upon one of the ports appears an old Marble with an Epitaph carved thereon, shewing his Original and descent. As also the City Cornetto, Cornetto by the antient Tuscans dedicated to Pan, whose stately antique Walls, shew it to have been an honourable City; Pope Gregory the fifth was born there, Giovanni Vitalesco a Cardinal, and Father Mutio a Jesuite, with many other famous Men; seaven miles off Cornetto stands Civita Vecchia on the Sea shore, a fortified Port.
On the left hand of the Via Regia, lies Horti, an antient City which is Horti the Tuscan boundarie.
Further off is Tevere, and the Lake Basanello, in Latine, Lacus Vadimonis, and hereabouts stands Bassanello Castello, Magliano, Civita Castellana, Galese, and the Via Flaminia, which leads from Rimini to Rome.
[Page 104]In the way from Bolsena to Rome, is the Grove Monte Fiascone, where the Antients with great ceremony and solemnity were wont to sacrifice to the Goddess Gi [...]one, near which stands the old City Mionte Fiascome, which was a long time besieged by Camillus, who was not able to reduce it, for the strength of its site. Its Territory yeelds Moscatella.
Monte Fiascone being passed, you enter a large and pleasant Plain, Viterbo in which stands Viterbo, antiently called Vetulania, but Desiderius the King having inclosed it, Longhola Tussa, and Turrenna, within one Wall, by his Edict, yet to be read in a white Marble Tablet in the Palace of Viterbo, commanded it to be called Viterbo; tis head of the Church Patrimony, and behind it lies Monte Cimeno. Tis adorned with stately Edifices, amongst which the Domo is famous, where four Popes ly buried, Iohn the 21. Alexander the 4th. Adrian the 5th. and Clement the 4th. and the Church Santa Rosa, wherein that Saints body is kept entire, & an admirable Fountain, casting out great quantity of water. This City was a long time subject to the Vecchi and Gotti, its Citizens, who driven out, it submitted to the Pope. Tis well inhabited with a civil people, and abounds with Corn, Oyl, Wine, and Fruits; in its Territory are eleven Rivers, which store it with excellent Fish. It wants not Baths of warm water, among the rest those of Bolicano are named for their Miraculous virtue. A mile forth the City stands the Church Quierria dedicate to the Virgin Maria; finally it hath afforded Men of excelling Judgements.
From this City you ascend the Mountain Viterbo, called Mons Cyminus by the Latins, upon which is the Castle Canepina; near thereto Canepina stood formerly the Castle Corito, built by Corito King of Tuscany, whose foundations yet remain, there also was then a thick and terrible Wood, through which none durst pass, no more than the Calidonian or Hercinian Wood, but at present the Trees are cut and a way comodiously layed out. At the Foot of this Mountain towards Lag [...] ▪ Vico the South, is the Lake Vico, in Latin called Lacus Cyminus, near it stands the Village Viro, and the Castle Soriano, where there was an inexpugnable Fort, whence for 60, yeers the Brittons Souldiers could not be expelled.
Pursuing the way towards Rome, you finde Ronciglione, which hath a lovely Fountain, and Caprinica, inhabited by 500. Families; beyond which lies Sutri an antient City, built (as is believed) by Sutri. the Pelasgi a Grecian people, before Saturnus came into Italy. The Romans taking the advantage of this City, assaulted the Tuscans and overcame an Army of 60: thosand Tuscans Spoletines and Ombri: Its ill ayr renders it near uninhabited. Beyond Ronciglione lies Caprarola, a Castle of the Farnlsies, where whatever can be desired for Recreation is competently pro vided for, by Cardinal Alexandro Farnese.
Not far distanr from it is Civita a City now of smal importance, Cività: though antiently because they would not assist the Romans (then afflicted by Hannibal) we find them by the Romans condemned al Doppio. Rofolo.
Passing on the Via Regia, one meets Rofolo a Bourg adjacent to a Lake of immense profundity, & two miles beyond it Campagnana, and npon the same way a standing Pool, where was Cremera a Castle built by the Fabii and destroyed by the Vesenti, here we [...]eslain in one day Cremera. [Page 105] by the said Vesenti, 500. Servants, and 300. persons of that Family, for having privatly complotted an insurrection for their Country Rome against them, one Childe sleeping in a Cradle escaped and became the restorer of the Fabii in Rome. More forward stands the Town Baccano, and the Wood called Bosco di Baccano, which was lately a harbour for Assassinates and other people disposed to ill, whence it grew into a proverb when we would advise any one to stand uppon his, guard to say. Perche siamo nel Bosco de Baccano, but through the vigilance and care of the late Popes, tis almost a secured passage.
On the right-hand stands Anguillara a Town of much Fame, whose Lords having behaved themselves gallantly have acquired to themselves and Country eternal honour. The Signori Orsini possesse it, and Bracciano, which is entitled a Dutchy. From the aforenamed Lake runs the River Arone, whence the Romans convey by pipes the water they called Sabatina, from the Lakes name Sabatina. Towards the Sea lies the Monastery Santo Severa, made now a Fort, and Ceri a Castle upon the shore. On the left hand of the Via Regia, lies the Via Flaminea, and six miles beyond Beccano Isola, then Storta, two Towns, and thence tis seaven miles to Rome. One may also travail from Bologna to Rome, on the Via Emilia, and so pass Imola, Faenza, Forli, Cesena, and Rimini.
IMOLA.
IMola called in Latine Forum Cornelii, enjoyes a good Ayr, a fruitful Territory, a commodious situation for all things, Narsetes in the yeer of Christ, 550. destroyed it, but Dasone second King of the Longobardi, restored it, and called it Imola, Galeazzo Sforza, Son of Francis Duke of Milan possessed it, and gave it in Dowry to Girolamo Riario Savonese, in Anno 1473. some time after twas taken forcibly by Cesar Borgia, Son of Pope Alexander the 6th. finally (after several other Lords) it became under the power of the Church, who yet keep it in peace. Martial the famous Poet, resided here for some time, as may be drawn from his verses, and many Illustrious persons were born here.
COTIGNOLA.
BEtween Imola and Faenza, stands Cotignola, a Castle small, but strong, near the River Senio, encompassed with thick Walls, and profound Dikes; the Castle was built by the Forlevesi, and Faentini, but the Walls and Ditches by Giovanni Aguto, Captain and Standard-bearer to the Roman Church, to whom twas given by Pope Gregory the 11th. It was the Birth-place of Sforza, Attendolo, the first of the Sforzesean Family, who wrought himself at a Pickax, and yet in less than one hundred yeers his line and Family, hath yeelded one Empress, many Queens, Marqueses, Dukes, Counts, Captains, Bishops, Arch-Bishops, Cardinals, and other eminent persons.
FAENZA.
FAenza is divided by the River Lamone, which passeth between the Bourg and the City, where there is a strong bridge of Stone, which conjoyns the City with the Bourg, and the Via Emilia. Tis ancient, and the first Founders are unknown; it enjoys a serene healthfull Ayr, a fertile Territory, and a people good-natured and lovers of their Country. Here they make the best and finest Vessels of Earth of all Italy. It hath produced men eminent in all the Sciences. It was several times destroyed by Totila King of the Goths, Frederick Barbarossa, and by a Captain of the Brittones, but Frederick the second Nephew of the first, built that Fort, cast down and levelled the Walls in rhe yeer 1240. which now are seen, for that by their fidelity to the Church, they gave him great difficulty to take it: The Manfredi then got it, and rebuilt the Walls, from them the Bolonians took it, from them Mainardo Pagano, its Citizen, a great Captain, and from him the Venetians, from whom after the rout, they received at Giarad Adda by Lewis the 12th. King of France, it returned again to the devotion of the Church, under whome it hath ever since continued.
BRISIGELLA.
THis Town is seated in part on a Plain, and in part on the side of a hill, it hath two Forts, the one on the East called the Tower, where with the touch of a Bell they give notice how many Horses enter, the other on the West, both set at the outmost part of the Town. It hath two Fountains, the Water of the one so sweet and light, that none is accounted better, the other so gross and heavy, that they give it not to their Beasts, but account it only fit for cooling their Wine, and cleansing and dying their silks, which shine more here than elsewhere, and that is attributed to the crudity of this water. Its Territory is called la Valle d'Amone from the River so named, which having its sourse from the top of the Alps of Florence (with little water in a short course driving Mills) runs thorow the Valley to Faenza▪
This Valley and Territory contains 48. Villages, every one having its own Parish, and a sufficient allowance for its Pastors. The Farmers are rich and civil, they muster 800. Men, who are well exercised youth, and the best armed of any in the Ecclesiastick State. Which Villages are all contained under the name Bresigiella.
The said Valley is so fertile in Wine, Oyl, Corn and other necessaries, that though there be 18000. Souls, yet one yeers crop affords sustenance enough for all them for two yeers, were it not exported into other Countreys.
It hath one noble Palace belonging to the ▪ Signori Spadi, which hath all the coumodities of Church, Fishponds, Fountains, Gardens, Vineyards, Wood for Foul, Conservatories for Snow, with all sorts of trees of exquisite fruit, Citrons, Lemons, Oranges, Pynes, and other delights that may be required, & this is alwaies so well accommodated with all necessaries for the Kitchin, houshold-stuff, and [Page 107] Plate, that whenever any Prince or Embassador arrives, they need not transport thither the least thing, there is one Oake which five men cannot brace.
This Town hath one eminent Collegiate for the Prelates; every Wednesday they keep here a Market, so great for all things, that it attracts infinite People, for which they pay no toll. It flourished in Arms two Ages past, through the nobility, generofity, and Valour of the Family of Naldi, the statues of Vicenso and Dionisio Naldi, are in Venice erected. And in Religion and Learning, by many famous Men.
The Voyage or Journey from MILAN to CREMONA, to MANTOVA, to FERRARA, and to RIMINI.
IF you would see the places, distant from the Via Emilia, when you are arrived at Lodi, you must go towards the Adda Eastward, and at twelve miles distance meet Castiglone, and see Castle Novo, and Pizzichotone, a famed Place, for that Francis the first King of France, being taken Prisoner, by the Imperialists, under Pavia, was reteined there, till by Order of the Emperor Charls the fifth, they embarked him at Genoua for Spain, hence tis but 15. mile to Cremona, all good and direct even way.
CREMONA the Faithfull.
CRemona is built on the banks of the Poe, in the 7th. Climat, on the West parts of Italy, tis eight miles in circuit, environed with Walls Bastions, and Ditches, and hath one Cittadel on the Eastpart, the most stupendious, strong and formidable work in all Italy. Its first Founders are not known, but their judgements approved for its good Ayr. It was a good Colony of the Romans, and alwaies maintained such fidelity to its Princes, that among the Cities of Italy it merited the surname of faithfull. In the time of the Triumvirate of Augustus, Antony, and Lepidus, it suffered much misery, its Territories being divided also among the Souldiers, whose neighbourhood to Mantoua, made it participate in misery, and caused Virgil to lament in his 9th. Ecloge, Mantoua vel miserae ni [...]ium vicina Cremonae.
Cornelius Tacitus relates its then wofull sufferings. Afterwards in Anno 630. it was all cast down by the Gothes, Longobards and Slaves and 600. yeers, after that destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa, and depopulated. But afterwards it was restored and amplified, and governed in liberty, till through civil discords Uberto Palavicino got the dominion, who driven out, certain lesser Lords kept it in servitude, as now Cavadabo, now the Ponzoni, now the Fonduli, now the [Page 108] Visconti, whoever of them was conqueror got it, and with the conquered it alwaies suffered. Also the Venetians, French, and Sforzeschi had it by Arms, but now the King of Spain reigns in it, and maintains in great tranquillity.
Sigismond the Emperor to gratifie Gabrino Fondalio, granted it license for a publique University, with all such privileges, immunities and exemptions, as those of Paris or Bologna, enjoyed.
The ordinary buildings are so great, that they may be termed Palaces, reared with great expense and excellent Architecture. Ir hath broad streets, with Orchards, Gardens, and Mills as well within as without the City, a chanel for driving them being brought from the River thorow the City.
It hath one Tower so high that it is reckoned among the wonders of Europe, which was built in the yeer 1284. Upon it at one instant were, Pope John the 22th. Sigismond the Emperor, with Gabrino Fondulio, Lord of the City, who afterwards was sad at the heart, that he had not precipitated the Emperour and Pope to eternalize his memory, as did Herostrato, who only to commemorate his name gave fire to and burnt that stupendnous Temple of Diana, built in Ephesus at the common charge of all the Potentates of Asia, in two hundred yeers. It hath a Cathedral with a good Revenue, and many other stately Churches, wherein are kept many Reliques of Saints, and much riches, several Hospitals and other pious places.
The Families of Cremona, are for the most part descended from the Romans, who there made a Colony, others from the veterane Souldiers, who for reward of their Labours had houses & Lands there assigned them, and others from the Goths, Longobardi, French, Germans, and other people of Italy; it hath given birth to many eminent Ecclesiasticks, Lawyers, Physicians, Souldiers, and Poets. The people are of an industrious and accute wit, and have invented several sorts of Stuffs, Silks and Clothes, and make excellent Swords.
Without the Gate Puleselia, stands the Church San Guglielmo, where is a large Pond which did formerly contain troubled and stinking water, but San Domenick and Francis, who dwelt there, making the sign of the Cross over it, they were there by miraculously converted into clear and sweet waters.
Near the Porta San Michaele, stood a Temple dedicate to the Goddess Februa, whereof nought appears now. Close by the Walls runs the noble River Oglio. On its West part lies nhe Territory of Lodi, on the North Bergamo and Brescia, on the East Mantona, and on the South Piacenza.
Between Towns and Hamlets this City possesseth 41. places, and all its Country round about is a plain planted with trees in excellent order with Vines clinging to them, and most productive of all grains herbage and other necessaries.
From Cremona to Mantoua, leads a direct even road, and upon or near it lye Piadena, the Country of Bartolomeo Platina, close by which Piadena passeth the Oglio, Canesdo, where the Oglio spends it self in the Poe, the Castles Asola, and Acquanegria, Bozzolo a Town, and San Martino where Scipion Gonzaga the Splendor of the College of Cardinals lies buried. Then the River passed which crosseth the Road, you leave Gazuolo the Bourg Marcheria, and Gazuolo, where there is a sumptuous and [Page 109] royal Palace of the Gonzaghi, whose also are the 3 Castles, from Gazuolo, to Mantoua twelve miles.
But the way from Cremona to Mantoua, on the left side of the Poe lies thus, first to the Town San Giovanni, and Ricardo, then to Ponzono, Gusnola, and Casal Maggiore, and then to Sabioneda, an imperial City, very fair and stately, a draught whereof was taken by order of the Duke Vespasiano. Beyond which lies Viadona, and Pomponesco, where lies the passe over the Poe, whence tis eight mile to Mantoua, in the way are Montecchio, a mannor of the Palavicini, Colorno under the Parmesans, the Castle Bresegello of the Dokes of Estè, formerly a City, but destroyed by the Lougobardi, whose King Alboino there, slew Totila King of the Gothes, and by that victory made himself Lord of Italy, Gonzaga, where the Duke of Mantoua hath a noble Palace, Reggio, Huolara, Luzzara, and Guastallo entitled with a Principality, thence to Borgo Forte, and so to Mantoua.
MANTOUA
FOr its antiquity gives place to no City of Italy, being founded not only before Rome, but before the destruction of Troy, (which happened according to Eusebius, Saint Jerome and others, 430. yeers before the building of Rome) Leandro Alberti, shewes that Mantoua was built 1183. yeers before the coming of our Lord into the flesh. And as it was more antient than the rest, so was its Original more noble, being founded by Ocno Bianoro, the most antient King of Tuscany, who was Son of Tiberino King of Tuscany, and Manto Tebena his Queen, and so called it Mantoua from the name of his Mother. It was first inhabited by three noble people, the Tebani, Veneti, and Toscani, as Virgil the Prince of Poets celebrating the nobleness of this his Country testifies in his 10. book of his AEneades.
Tis seated among the Marishes created by the River Mencio, is strong by nature and art, large and well built, adorned with sumptuous Palaces and fair Churches, noble Piazzaes, spatious recreative places, and direct streets. Tis a merchandizing City, and copious of all trading through the conveniency of the waters. The people are of an acute genius, and not less disposed to Learning, Arms, and all Sciences, than to Traffick and Merchandizing.
In the Church of the reverend Fathers of Saint Domenick, is the Tomb of Giovanni de Medici, Father of Cosmus great Duke of Tuscany, where may be read this Epitaph.
[Page 110]In the Church of the Carmelites lies Batista Spagnuolo, General of that order, with this Epitaph. ‘Reverend. P. Magister Baptiste Mantuanus Carmelita, Theologus, Philosophus, Poeta, & Orator Clarissimus, Latinae, Graecae, & Hebraicae linguae peritissimus.’
In the sumptuous Temple Saint Andrea, is some of the pretious bloud of our Lord, and the body of San Longino the Martyr, Montigna Padouano lies likewise buried here with this Inscription. ‘Ossa Andreae Mantiniae famosissimi Pictoris cum duobus filiis insepulchro per Andream Mantiniam nepotem ex filio constructo.’
And underneath are these two verses.
In the Duomo (where the lngenuity of Giulio Romano a famous Architector hath expatiated it self) lies the entire body of San Anselmo Bishop of Lucca. In San Egidio, lies Bernardo Tasso.
Mantoua hath eight Gates, is in compass four miles, hath in it 50. thousand Souls, and the aforesaid Lake or Marish, lies 20. miles round it, near it is the Royal Palace of Te, built by Giulio Romano.
Five miles off Mantoua West-ward, stands a Temple dedicate to the Virgine Mary, filled with presents, and vows, wherein lies the body of Baldassar Casiiglione in a fayr Tomb. St. Benedict
Twelve miles distant from it South-ward, is the magnificent and sumptuous Monastery of Saint Benedict, seated in a Plain near the Poe, which was built by Bonisace, Marquess of Mantoua, Count of Conossa, and Uncle of Matilda, in the yeer of our Saviour 984. which for its Magnificense, Riches, and sumptuousness of building, and what more imports, for its observance in Religion, antecedes all the other Monasteries of Italy The Fryers Benedictines have possessed it for 200 yeers, from whom have issued many Religious, filled with sanctity, good doctrine, and grave customs. Its possessions traverse a great space of ground, and from the privileges of Pope Pasquale the second, we may collect they had dominion in spirituals and temporals, over the Towns Guernelo and Quistello, with 38. parish Churches in the Diocess of Mantoua, Luca, Bologna, Ferrara, Parma, Malamocco, & Chioza, The most illustrious Countess Matilda, (whom none comes near for her signal benefits conferred on the Roman Church) being 69. yeers old here finisht her days, in the yeer 1161. and was layed in a Marble Sepulchre in the Chapel of the blessed Virgin, which being opened 320. yeers after, her body was found unperisht and untouched, her Effigies upon a Mare (like unto a man) stands upon her Tombe, in a long red Gown, and a Pomgranade in her hand, where among her other Epitaphs, this old one may be read.
In that part of the Monastery where now is the common Kitchin below, and Graneries above, was the Palace of Matilda; It hath as much Land as 382. yoke of Oxen can till. It hath a Rampart goes round a great part of its Lands about, 7 miles long, which cost in raising above 27000. Crowns, which in Anno 1560. was made in a few moneths to stop the inundations of the Poe.
Two miles beyond Mantoua at the mouth of the River Mincio, which issues from the Lake, and goes to Ferrara, stands the Bourge Ande now called Pietole, where Virgil was born, beyond that Hostia, and Roveredo, and then Lago Scuro; where you imbark for Venice; hence after three miles travail you arrive at Ferrara.
FERRARA.
THis City is seated on the Banks of the Poe, which washeth it on the East & South parts; tis garnished with stately and sump tuous structures, and spatious and noble Piazzaes which was first paved with brick, by the Marquess Lionello, filled with noble Families and rich Citizens, and tis moreover famous for the University here established by the Emperor Frederick the second, in despight of the Bolonians. And although this City cannot boast its antiquity from the Trojans, Grecians or Romans (being not a thousand yeers since twas walled by order of the Emperor Mauritius) yet through the diligence and love of its Princes, tis so increased in Edifices and Riches, that it hath deserved a place amongst the chief Cities of Italy, which increase happened under the Illustrious Family of Estè, Giulio Cesar della Scala a famous Poet commends Ferrara thus.
And this shall suffice touching Ferraras antiquity, which in the yeer 1598. came into the power and patrimony of S. Petre, by the industry and pains of Pope Clement the eighth.
In the Duomo lies Pope Urban the 8th. in a sumptuous Marble monument, near which one may read of the learned Man Gregorio Geraldo, what ensues, viz.
In the Church of Laint Domenick, near the Gate, is a stately Tomb with this inscription. ‘D. M. Nicolao Leoniceno Vicentino, qui sibi Ferrariam patriam maluit, ubi annos 60. Italos, & provinciales magna celebritate Graecè, & Latinè instituit, continua serie apud Principes Estenses magno in honore habitus, Unus omnium magis pectore, quam lingua philosophiam professus rerum naturae abditissimarum experientissimus, qui primus herbariam bene desitam, & sylvam rei medicae injuria temporum negligenter habitam in dispositionem magna ope mortalium revocavit, in barbaros conditores pertinaciter stylum perstrinxit, & studio veritatis, cum omni antiquitate acerrimè depugnavit, annos natus sex & nonaginta, cum jam aeternis monumentis in arcem immortalitatis sibi gradum fecisset, homo esse defiit Alphonsus Estensis, Dux Tertius, & S. P. Q. Ferrariens. benemerito posuere, sexto idus Junii. M. D. XXIV, Bonaventura Pistopholo grato ipsius discipulo pocurante.’
In the noble Church of the Benedictines, upon a Column of the Prince of Italian Poets, may be read thus. ‘Ludovico Areosto Poetae Patritio Ferrariensi Augustinus Mustus tanto viro, ac dese bene meren. Tumulum, & Effigiem marmoream, aere proprio P. C. Anno salutis M. D. LXXXIII. Alphonso Secondo Duce, vixit annos 56. obiit anno sal. 1533. 8. Idus Junii.’
And a little below, that of the composition of Lorenzo Frizoli.
In the Cloyster of the Carmelites stands a Marble Tablet with a memorial of Manardo thus. ‘Jo. Manardo Ferrariensi viro uni omnium integerr. ac sanctis. Philosopho, & Medic. doctis. qui ann. P. M. LX. continenter tum docendo, & scribendo, tum innocentis. medendo omnem medicinam ex arce bonarum literar. foedè prolapsam, & in barbar. potestatem, ac ditionem redactam prostratis, ac profligatis hostium copiis identidem, ut [Page 113] Hydra renascentibus in antiquum pristinumque statum, ac nitorem stituit. Lauream omnium bonorum consensu adeptus IIII. & LXX. ann. agens omnibus omnium ordinum sui desiderium relinquens humilise hoc sarcophago condijussit.’ ‘Julia Marandauxor. moestiss. quod ab eo optabat posuit Haec brevis exuvias magni capit urna Manardi’ ‘Nam virtus latè docta per ora volat. Mens pia cum superis caeli colit aurea templa’ ‘Hinc hospes vitae sint documenta tuae. M. D. XXXVI. Men. Mart.’
The Journy from FERRARA to VENICE.
CHIOZA.
PArting from Ferrara five miles upon the Poe, stands Francolino, where embarking, and passing by the several Towns Ronigo, Papoza, Corbola, and Arriano, you embark on the Sea, near the Porte Goro, whence coasting the Land North-ward, you shall arrive at Chioza a City which hath a good Port, The people consist for the most part of Mariners Fishermen, and good Gardiners. Chioza is famous for the deeds of Arms performed there between the Genovesi, and the Venetians and was much increased by the people of Este and Monselice, who fled thither to to save themselves at the inroade of the Hunns In the time of Ordelafo Faliero, Duke of Venice, the Bishoprick of the City Malimacco, (overflowed by the Sea) was transferred thither, and for that cause twas created a City. On the East part of Chioza in the Sea lies a Ridge of Sand in the Sea in the nature of a Rampart pose to oppose the fury of the Adriatick Sea, 30 miles long from South to North. Tis almost incredible what vast quantities of Comodities are extracted from it to Venice, which are there produced by the ingenuity of the Gardiners, the fertility of the Soyl, and the natural Orchards full of greens whereof and of gardens it most consists, which are ordered exactly well. From Chioza sayling South ward you se Ancona, Pesaro, Rimini, Cesenna, and Ravenna, but going by Land, discover many Ports, as Goro, Bebe, Volano, Magnavacca, Primano, and Brondolo:
From Chioza to Venice are 20. miles, in which space stands Malomocco, an Island heretofore enobled by the Duke of Venice his Residence, there is the Porto Malomocco, which through its profundity is rendered dangerous. And also Poveggia, now an uninhabited Island, but at the first Venetians planting, well-peopled, in it still remains a miraculous Crucifix, together with many other small Islands, Monasteries, Hospitals, Orchards, and Gardens, between which lies the most noble City Venice, who scarce finds a Parallel.
The Journy from FERRARA to RAVENNA, and to RIMINI.
IN the Suburbs of Ferrara towards Ostro the Poe being past by a certain long Bridge of Wood, stands the Church of S. Gregorio, [Page 114] wherein the Body of S. Maurelio first Bishop of Ferrara, is carefully layed up. Here the Poe parts with a great Arm, which having bathed the great Level, runs by Mejaro, Mejarino, and other places into the Adriatick Sea; But the greater Chanel runs Southward, and at 8. miles distance hath on its Banks the Bourg Argenta, so named from from the quantity of Sylver which every so many yeers, it payed to the Church of Ravenna, on its right hand are many deep Trenches filled with good fish.
Three miles beyond Argenta stood Bastia, a Fort (now demolished) where the Armies of Pope Giulius the second, and Alphonso first Duke of Ferrara, fought a sharp Battail. Ten miles beyond it lies Lugo a noble Town, Bagnac avollo, a Bourg, and Cotignana the native Country of the Sforzeschan Princes, Babiano, Mazolino, Imola, and Faenza with others.
On the left side of the Poe, are fertile Fields, and a Palace of the Prince of Este, so large and well furnished, that it may give a reception to a great King. In this neighbourhood were antiently twelve large Towns: whose inhabitants by one unanimous consent built Ferrara.
Pursuing the Poe for twenty miles, lye many fayr and pleasant Towns, as Longastino and Filo, so called for that there the Poe, runs for six miles as strait as a thred or line. San Alberto, and Priniaro where the Poe runs into the Sea, from Sant Alberto looking Northward you may see Comacchio, near the Sea shore, with a Lake or standing Pool round it, wherein they take vast quantities of Mullets, and Eeles, some weighing 30. pound, Comacchio was antiently a famous City, but now tis near destroyed by the waters, hereabouts also lies the Abbacy of Pomposa. On the left of Saint Albergo, are Fenny Fields, wherein to this day may be seen the Fossa Messanitia, made by our Ancestors, but now tis a narrow Chanel to navigate to Ravenua, in small Barks, it formerly run 50. miles navigable, and was called Padusa.
RAVENNA.
THis City is more memorable for its antiquity than fair building being first built by the Thessalonians, who being perplexed and molested by the Ombrians, and Sabines, voluntarily gave it them up▪ and returned into Greece, but the Ombrians were thence driven by the French, and they by the Romans, under whom it remained till they with the Heruli took the Country Odouacre, but then they were driven out by the Ostrogoths, under Theodorick their King who made it his Regal Seat, under whom it remained 70. yeers, and then they were beaten out by Narsete, Praefect of Justinian the Emperor, under the Title of Exarchi, after whom 17. more Exarchi governed it 170. yeers, who were all that time held in continual skirmishes with the Longobardi, who were called into Italy by Narsete, against the said Emperour of Constantinople. For Narsete being accused to Giustino, Successor to Justinian, for some crime, whereat Giustino was offended which backed with the instigation of the Emperours wife, caused the Emperour to send another to be Exarche in his Room, who being exasperated against the Emperour for it, invited in the [Page 115] Longobardi against the Empire, by whose hands the Exarcate of Italy was extinct. This Exarche was in the nature of a King, having plenary Jurisdiction in all things without appeal: Astolfo some time after being overcome by Pipino King of the French, gave up Ravenna to the Church of Rome, but Desiderius successor to Astolfo, not regarding his Faith after the retreat of Pipin with the French Army, possessed himself again of Ravenna and other Towns, but the Emperour Charles the Great returning into Italy with the French Army, overcame and took him Prisoner, when the Longobardi were forced to quit Italy altogether, so that it hath suffered many disgraces, and was afterwards sacked by the French, and destroyed by civil discord.
Strabo saies that in his time Ravenna stood upon certain Piles driven into the Fennes, and that the water passed under it, so that no coming was to it but by Bridges or Boats, and when the waters were high, then the people were forced to get up into the upper Rooms, yet for all that twas healthfull, as Alexandria in AEgypt, but now the Waters are so dryed up that the Fenns are become Excellent Meadows, Pastures, and Corn Grouuds, many Historians agree that twas much beautified by Augustus Caesar, accommodating it with a great Bridge, and erecting the high Tower called Faro, where he encamped an Army for defence of the Gulfs and lodged the Souldiers in the midst of the City, in a form like a Castle, which afterwards was called the Fortezza of Ravenna, it had another Fort called Cesarea, with Walls and Bastions, which strongly fortifyed the Port of Ravenna, but at present neither the Ports nor Forts appear, only some certain old Churches and Monasteries of little moment. On the Porta Speriosa, for its structure, and good Marble called Aurea, is this Title. ‘TI. CLAUDIUS. DRUSI. F. CAESAR. AUG. GERMANICUS. PONT. MAX. TR. POT. COS. II. DES. III. IMP. III. P. P. DEDIT.’
Whence tis supposed that the Emperour Claudius fortifyed Ravenna with Walls and a new Port, Biondo affirms, that Ravenna was amplified by Placida Galla, sister of Arcadio, and Honorius the Emperours, and by her Sons Valentiniano, and Tiberio, also Theodrick King of the Goths, beautified it with stately edifices, and enriched it with the spoil of the other Provinces, as appears by those Churches, Palaces, & other structures raised by him and his successors, and yet extant.
In Ravenna near the Piazza Santa Maria stands a great Convent, and in it the magnificent Tombe of Dante Algieri, erected to him by Bernardo Bembo the Venetian Podesta in Ravenna, with this Inscription by the said Bembo.
And with this other Inscription which the said Dante near his death composed.
The biggest Church of Ravenna, is the Arch-Bishops, upon whose high Altar was formerly sustained a massy Silver heaven or canopy on four Pillars, which was worth 30000. Crowns, with excellent ornaments wrought with Gold, all which were taken away by the sacriligious people of Lewis the 12th. King of France, when without any difference he sacked this City, for which they afterwards received from the most high condigne punishment, being most of them cut in pieces, or forced to leap into the Poe, or Tesino, where they drowned themselves. In a Semicircular Chapel, are Limned those first Arch-Bishops of Ravenna (elected by the shewing of a Dove) in Mosaick work, a fair piece, whose election was after this manner.
Sant Apollinare (believed one of the 72 Disciples of Christ, then ascended into Heaven,) departing from Antiochia, with Saint Peter togo to Rome, had in his passage taught the Christian Faith at Ravenna, and afterwards stayed there to govern it, whom none of the Disciples by him left judged themselves sit to succeed to govern that Church where fore all of them together withdrew themselves into a Temple to pray to God to demonstrate to w [...]h of them it would please his Divine Majesty to commit that care, whereat the holy Spirit in the form of a Dove descended upon the head of one, who was understood by it to be elected by God to that Dignity, after which manner eleaven Arch-Bishops were successively chosen. And the Casement, whereat the Dove entred is yet apparent though half shut, over the Arch of the high Altar in the Church of Spirito Santo in this City, in which Church on the left hand is a heap of Bricks, near which in a Corner stood Severus a mean person and a simple Man, upon whose head the holy Spirit descended visible to all, he being the last of the eleaven.
Tis worth ones pains to view the Church of Saint Apollinare, called the golden heaven, built most sumptuously by Theodorick, King of the Ostrogoths, it hath two ranks of most noble great Columns, brought hither by that King from Constantinople, and is garnished with many pretious Marbles, extracted from Rome, and other places of Italy, and also some other Churches.
In Ravenna are many antiquities, Epitaphs, and antient Memorials, whose Letters and words require a University of Interpreters. The ruines of a stately Palace (supposed King Theoricks) appear yet in the midst of its Fountain is a statue of Hercules Horarius, not elsewhere found. Hercules stands like an Atlas, bending with his left knee as ready to rise, who with his two hands elevated and his head [Page 117] together supports a Solar Horologe, whereon the shadow of the needle from the Sun shewes the houre of the day. A like statue of Hercules was found in Rome in the Vineyard of Steffano del Buffalo, which instead of the Horologe supported a round Globe with the Celestial Signs, distinctly figured, but this difference is not of any great moment, nearly weighing the Signification of the thing for the knowlege of the hour arose from the observation of the Celestial motion, and tis the Sun distinguishes the hour, who by his annual course visites the whole Cirk of the Firmament, which hath caused some to conjecture, that Hercules signifies the Sun, and that the 12 labours counted as of a Mans, is the Ingress of the Sun through the twelve Signs in the circuit of the skies, whereby the Sun of it selfcasts forth its beams, persuing which Opinion, misteriously though with somewhat accult sense they apply to the sun all the other Fables of Hercules, which are two tedious here to be applyed, let it suffice to have spoken so much to the purpose, of that statue, to rouse up our youth into a more near Scrutiny of the sense of the Fables of the antients, from the knowledge wherein may be extracted many natural secrets, hid under those their sayings and Fables.
Before Ravenna stands a most antient round Church of the blessed Virgin, being so fair and large, that the inward circle is 25. foot in diametre: The walls are finely wrought, and all the pavement is layed with small stones of various colours, disposed into divers pleasing figures after the Mosaick work, the Roofis of one squared entire hard stone hollowed, in the midst whereof is the Cupola, whereby the light penetrates, tis scarce imaginable how or by what Art so great a stone could be mounted so high, nor where had the Edge or Plate on the Walls at top as near as can be guessed are about 35 foot in circuit, above the said Edge on the top four fair Collumns in former times susteyned the noble Sepulchre of Theodorick King of the Ostrogothes, of Porphire, specled with white, being one entire stone eight foot long, and four foot high, with a cover of Brass figured and wrought to admiration with gold and othergarnishments, which Tombe tis supposed Amalesunta his Daughter erected, but in the time of the French war, the wicked Souldiers of Lewis the 12th. King of France, with hopes of some great booty within, drew it down and broke it, whereof some Reliques yet remain.
Three miles forth the City in the way to Forli, runs the River Ronco, on the Bank whereof stands a Cross of stone, in testimony that in the year 1512. Gastone de Fois Captain of the French Army, there obtained a victory with the loss of his own life, for that being too fiercly bent against his enemies. he advanced two forward with very few in full speed of his Horse, and of a sudden was dead, in which battail dyed that day eighteen thousand Souldiers, between French, Spaniards, Italians, Germans and Switzers.
CERVIA.
NEar Ravenna lies that notable Wood called Pigneda, from the infinite number of Pyne trees there growing, whose Fruit supply all Italy. Some miles beyond which stands Cervia, a City, but ill peopled by reason of the malignant ayr, all whose Inhabitants are such as get a livelyhood by making Salt, with Saltwater dryed in the Sun, whereof they make such quantity, that white Salt lies in Mountains. In it is nought worth noting, unless the model of so old a City, built meerly for necessity. The Cathedral Church, although it hath a good revenue, seemes but a Church of a Villa near it lies a Tomb of Marble, in form of a Pyramide, with two lovely Children carved at the foot of it. After it had been under several Lords in Anno 1527. it became a part of the Church Patrimony and so continues.
Whence you must passe the River Savio in whose Port Caesar Octavianus prepared a great Armada, and then to the River Pistatello formerly called Rubicone, famous not only for that the Romans made it the bound of two Provinces, calling the one towards Rome, Italia, and the other towards the Alpes, Gallia Cisalpina, and commanded that no Commander of what quality soever, should presume to pass that River towards Rome with armed Souldiers; but also for that Iulius Caesar afterwards (against the determination of the Senate and people of Rome) conducted his Army over that River towards Rome, where he first consulted by reason of the dangerous consequence might ensue so rash a Deed, and in the end resolved and passed saying, Eatur quo Deorum ostenta, & inimicorum iniquitas vocant, Iacta sit alea: and upon his demurr, there he saw certain Birds fly, called Augurii which (to his Judgement) seemed to invite him to transport those Souldiers he had commanded in France, to commence a War against Rome his Mother and Country.
Travailing from Ravenna to Rimini, on one hand lies the Sea, and on the other fertile and pleasant Fields, the Via Flaminia, and Alpes, at whose Feet stands the stately City Forli.
FORLI.
TIs believed, that (after Asdrubal was slain by the Roman Consul Livio Salinatore then united with Claudius Nero) certain old Souldiers built a Castle and called it Livio, in honour of the said Livius the Consul, a mile and halfe's distance from where Forli now stands, but because in the Via Maestra, there was a fair Town wherein they made their Mart for Merchandize, and Seat of Judicature, for that cause called Foro, they say that the Inhabitants of Livio, after some time cousidering that twas more comodious to inhabite the said Town than their Castle Livio, agreed with the Townes▪ men to cohabite together, and accordingly by Common consent, with leave of Augustas, which was easily obtained through the mediation of Livia his consort, and Cornelio Gallo a Liviese, they conjoyned those two names, Foro and Livio, and for brevity called the place Forli, which in Latine by the name clearly appears being called forum [Page 119] Livii, which union was made in the time that our Lord Christ was being on the Earth, and 208. yeers after, the first foundation of the Castle Livio, Forli is placed between the Rivers Ronco and Montone, enjoyes a delicate ayr with a most fertile Country, in Wines, Oyls, Corn, and Fruit together with Coriander, seed, Anniseed, Cuminseed, and Woad in great abundance.
The men of Forli are for the most part gallant beyond measure, and retains the martial disposition of their first Founders. It was a long time subject to the Romans, after them to the Bolonians, and because four Bolonians banished out of Bolonia, were courteously entertained in Forli, the Bolonians raised a great Army against them, but in a Battail received such an overthrow by the Forlesi, that they never could raise their heads after it, whereby the Bolonians power being abated. the Forlesi yielded themselves up to the Roman Church, from whome afterwards revolting Martin the 4th. dismantled it, and threw down the Walls, consigning it to the Family Monfredi, from whom it passed to the Ordelasi, who again Walled it round, but Sistus the 4th. gave it to Giorlamo Biario Savonese, whom Caesar Borgia Son of Alexander the 6th. expelled and and took it by force of Arms, but at last in the time of Giulius the second, it again returned to the Church under whom to this day, it continnes in peace and fidelity, it hath yielded many learned and brave men, as Guidon Bonato, Rainiero, Biondi, and others.
BRITTONORO.
ABove Forli stands Brittonoro, called in Latine Forum Trijarinorum, this City is built upon a hill, and above it hath a strong Fort fatal to Frederick the second, it was a Town, but created a City at the instance of Egidius Carrilla a Spanish Cardinal, and Legate of Italy, who having destroyed Forlimpopoli, transferred thence his Episcopal Seat, to Brittonoro, in Anno 137. it participates a most happy Ayr, and rich Country, in Olives, Figgs, Vynes, Fruitful Trees, and good Waters. It hath one place erected intentionally for a prospect, where you have a full view of the Adriatick Sea, of Dalmatia, Croatia, Venetia, and all Romagna, at one instant; Barbarossa the Emperor, at the instance of Pope Alexander the third, being reconciled to the Venetians, for this beautiful prospects sake requested Brittonora, of the Pope for his habitation, but the Pope perpending the constant fidelity of this People to the Sea of Rome, prevayled with the Emperor by fair words, not to take from the Churches government, a place that in all occasions had demonstrated so sincere a Faith to it, and so it continued under it till Alexander the 6th. consigned it to Caesar Borgio, his Son, after whom the civil discords had almost destroyed it, its Inhabitants being so prone to Arms that they know not how to live in Peace, Finally Clement the seaventh, consigned it to the Family Pii, who yet enjoy it.
FORIMPOPOLI.
A Mile and halfe from Brittonoro, on the Via Emilia stand Forlimpopoli, called in Latine Forum Popilii, which is one of the four Fori recorded in Pliny, on the Via Emilia. Twas a City, but in the year 700. Vitaliano being Pope, Griomaldo King of the Longobardi, secretly entred it on the Sabbath day, when all the People with the Bishop were at Divine Service, and slew all the Males and Females, which done he sacked the City, and levelled it with the ground. It was afterwards renewed by the Forlinesi, and again destroyed by Egiddio Carilla the Popes Legate dwelling in Avignone, who in the yeer 1370. plowed it and sowed it with salt for its utter extirpation, transfer [...]ng the Episcopal Seat to Brittonoro as afore▪aid, twenty yeers after which Sinibaldo Ordelafo Lord of Forli, repaired it, and built the formidable Castle now there. It enjoyes a good ayr, fertile Fields, and a great Ferry affording ample profit. Bofello a most holy man of of stupenduous miracles, was its Bishop, in the Catalogue of Saints, whose holy bones now lye in the Church called Santa Lucia, Antonel lo Armuzzo with his Sons Meleagro, and Brunoro, much honoured this Country, who by his Genius and strength from a mean person acquired the dignity of being Captain, of the Popes Cavalry.
SARSINA.
NEar Forlumpopoli is seated the City Sarsino, at the foot of the Appenines, whose Citizens furnished 20000. Armed Souldiers in supply to the Romans against the French, when they made a most furious eruption over the Alpes into Italy, Its ayr is healthfull, and Territory abounds with Olivs; Vines and other fruitful Trees. It continued a long time under Malatesti, but when Rimini became subject to the Church Sarsina yeelded with it afterwards, Leo the 10th. bestowed it on the house of Pii, this City gave birth to Vicino Bishop of Liguria a most holy man, and famous for working miracles, which property his body (lying in the Cathedral Church) yet retains, in operation over such persous as were oppressed with evil spirits lye expelling them. As also to Plautus that antient and famous Comick Latin Poet, who (tis commonly held for truth) wrought here at the Bake-house, as a Baker for a lively-hood, and when he had any spare time, he composed his Comedies, and sold them, the better to supply his necessities. Which Opinion Eusebius also confirms.
CESENA.
CEsena lies at the foot of a Hill near the River Savio, which so rapidly runs by it down from the Apenines that it overflows and infests, many grounds, before it runs into the Sea. This City hath a strong Cittadel upon the hill adjoyning to the heart of the City by means of a Pyle, built by Frederick the second Emperor now near ruined. Tis worth ones pains to see the Church, where on the roof hangs a piece of a poudered Hog, nayled to it in remembrance of a [Page 121] Miracle wrought thus. San Pietro the Martyr, caused the Convent of Saint Domenick to be built, in the time of whose strncture, craving Almes for the Love of God, it happened that this piece of the Poudred Hoggs flesh was bestowed on him, whereof he gave and fed the Workemen and Labourers till the said Convent was finished, and still there remained that which now hangs up there, for that what ever the Saint cut off, grew & increased day by day in the same manner and quantity, as in its first state, as if it had not been at all touched or diminished. It abounds with excellent wines and all other necessaries. Its original is not known, yet twas ever and is still well peopled. It was under the Emperors, the Church, the Bolonians, the Ordolasi, Mighardo di Sussenna, and the Malatesti, the last of whom Malatesto Novello, collected a stately Library, not now so despicable also to be passed without a view, in the Monastery of Saint Fraucis, who surrendred the City to the Church from whom twas wrested by Caesar Borgio called Duke Valentino Son of Alexander the 6th. and from him it once more returned in obedtence to the Church, and so continued in quiet ever since; on the Mount near it is a Church called Maria del Monte Cesena, where the Benedictines serve.
RIMINI.
THe number of Antiquities through this City shew it very antient: Twas beautifyed divers times by Augustus Caesar, and the succeeding Emperors, with sumptuous Fabricks, whereof the reliques yet remaining give asussicient testimony many Historians relate, that twas made a Colony of the Romans before the first Punick War, together with Benevento, Publius Sempronius Sofo, and Appius Claudius, Son of the Blind, being Consuls, which was 485 yeers after the foundation of Rome. After which twas held and inhabited by the Romans, as a Fortezza in those Confines against the French, and there most of the Roman Commanders (designed with Armies to forein Countries) were wont to make their Rendezvous, signifying to their People, what day they should there render themselves, as Livy more plainly sets down. Twas called Rimini from the River Rimini which washes it. The Picenti first justly held it, but they were overcome by Appius Claudius who triumphed for it, and dilated the Empire from Esino, or Fiumef [...]no to the River Pissatello. Tis seated in a most fertile Plain, having on the East and West parts of it excellent plow-Lands, on the South great plenty of Gardens, Orchards, OliveWoods, and Vineyards upon the hills of the Apenine Mountains, and on the North the Adriatick Sea, all which as twere in emulation strive which shall exceed the other in affording of necessaries and delicacies of all sorts to its Inhabitants.
Tis a comodious and fair City, replenished with structures alla Mo derna, in the Piazza is a glorious fountain sprouting sweet and clear waters through several pipes. Towards the Sea are some Reliques of a stately Theatre; over the River Arimino stands a Bridge built with large square Marble stones by Augustus, which conjoins the Via Flaminia, to the Via Emilia, and the City to the Suburb, which is 200. foot long in 5. Arches, and 15. broad, whose sides are wrought in Dorick structure, upon one of which is inscribed the Titles of Augustus Caesar, and on another those of Tiberius Caesar, whence we compute [Page 122] this Bridge was finished 778. yeers after the foundation of Rome, C. Calvisius, and Gn. Lentulus than Consuls, being begun by Augustus (who much laboured to beautify and accomodate the ViaFlaminia sparing no cost) and finished in the daies of Tiberius. Some part of the old Port appears yet but so inconfiderable, that it can onely receive small boats. But how great and magnificent this hath been, may be collected from that proud and stupendious structure, the Church San Francesco, which was built by Sigismond Maltesta, Prince of this City, with the Marble Stones haled out of the old Port.
At the Porta Orientale, leading to Pesaro, is a fair Marble Arch, erected there in honour of Augustus Caesar, when having been seaven times Consul, he was elected for the eighth, he having fortified and adorned (by commission of the Senate, and Will of the People of Rome) the five chief Roads of Italy, as may be guessed, from those few legible fragments of carved Letters yet remaining, whereby it appears that the Via Flaminia, was of great consideration, Augustus having assumed to himself the care of accommodating that Road from Rome to Rimini (as Suetonicus recounts) and given the charge of accommodating the rest to certain illustrious Men, with order to dispose what ever spoiles they took from the Enemies, to that purpose. For a memorial of which publique benefit, are yetextant certain moneys or medals of Gold then stamped with the Effigies of Augustus, with his titles on the one side, and on the other an Arch with two Doors elevated over a Way, on the top whereof sits Victory driving a triumphal Chariot, with these words, Quod viae munit [...] sint, which words declare the occasion of that great honour done to Caesar was for his care and cost in amending the high Waies & publick Roads. Of which Arch now wholly destroyed, many Reliquesly on the Via Flaminia even to Rome.
But the shortest way to Rome, is to go over the Hills which ly South-ward from Rimini, where stands the Castle Fiore, to pass the River Isauro, thirty miles whence is Urbino, and eight miles more is Acqualagna, there to enter the Via Flam [...]nia, and travail to Umbria. In the Via Flaminia, on the right hand upon a Hill is Verucchio, the first habitation of the Malatesta, to whom it was given by Otho the Emperor, and higher in the Mountains is the Bourg S. Martino, in in Latine Acer Mons, a noble rich and well-peopled Place. which hath ever preserved it self in full Liberty, nor was it ever conquered, which at a distance looks like a confused heap of Mountains, without way or means to ascend to. On the same way 15. miles off Rimini begins the Plain, which reaches without obstacle of hill to the Alpi Cottie, which divide Italy from France, this Plain is very spatious and fertile in all things, filled with Towns and Villages on all sides. In view whereof lies Poggio, Imperial, at whose foundatian Frederick the third Emperor layed the first stone, where the Pictures of all the line of Austeria, are excellently delineated.
PESARO.
THis City was built by the Romans 119. yeers before the coming of Christ, near the River Isaurus, whence with little alteration it took its name. Its Walls and Bulwarks were begun by Francesco [Page 123] Maria del Rovere, & finished by Guidi Baldo, his Son; tis beautifyed with stately structures for divine, publick and private Use, worth a view. Without the City is built the Princes Palace. In Pesaro they hold certain Fairs whither resort Merchants from farr Countries, but in regard the Port is stopped so that none but small Boats may enter, they carry their Merchandize on Asses and Mules. Twas made a Colony of the Romans 569. yeers after the foundation of Rome, Claudius Pulchrus and Lucius Porticus Licinus being then Consuls, and among the rest sent thither to inhabit was L. Acius the excellent Tragick Poet, born of Father and Mother that were Libertines. Plutark (in the life of Antonius) records this City to have received much damage by a Cleft or falling in of the Earth, after that M. Antony had a second time conducted Romans to inhabite there, which was a short time before that Warr, a wherein himself with Cleopatra were overcome by Augustus. At the Palace of the Governour is a Magazine furnished with excellent and various Arms.
From Pesaro you must go to Fano, and along the shore to Senigalia. Near the Porta of Rimini is a Bridge over the River Foglia, which is the Confines of the Provinces of Marcad' Aucona and Romagna. On the way appears Novellara Monte Abate, Monte Barucio, and 15. other Towns Pesaro yeelds such store of the best Figgs that they are there dryed to transport over Italy, and are accounted better than those from Sclavonia.
FANO.
THis City was so denominated from the Temple of Fortune here erected, which in Latine is called Fanum. It stands on the Via Flaminia, in a good Soyl, which yeelds all sorts of Corn, Wine, and Oyl, in great plenty. Many say Augustus Caesar made it a Colony, conducting thither Roman People to inhabit, at that time when he (as Suetonius writes) drew out of Rome 28. Colonies, and Pomponius Mela saies, that from the name of Julia Claesare, twas called Giulio Fanestre, as may be also collected from certain old inscriptions there exta [...] From the Reliques of the old Walls, and from the Arch placed over the Gate by which you enter coming from Rome on the Via Flaminia, may be drawn, that twas begirt with Walls by Augustus, and restored afterwards by Costantio, and Costanto, Sonns of the great Constantine.
The said Arch remained entire till the time of Pope Pius the second, and was made with great Art, carved with figures and Letters, but was destroyed by the Artillery in the War against the Farnesi, though for its remembrance a draught of it was taken and carved on the Walls of the Church S. Michiele, at their common charge, whereof, nor of any thing else of antiquity does ought entire appear.
In its neighbourhood beyond the River Metauro, are some places famons for the Deeds of Arms there performed. For M. Livius, Salinato & [...]laud. Nerone Consuls overcame and slew Asdrubal Brother of Hannibal the Carthaginian, on the Banks of the River, which made Hannibal despair of maintaining Carthage against the Romans, seeing the head of his Brother carried at the head of the Roman Army for his [Page 124] view whereby to render him cowardly. Somewhat beyond which place is the Field where Totila King of the Goths was overcome by Narsete Evenucho, the first Exarck and Legate of Iustinian the Emperor, which victory wholly freed Italy from the Government or rather Tyranny of the Gothes, for that Totila being mortally wounded fled thence to the Apenines (as Procopius in his third Book of the Gothick history relates) and there dyed.
The Voyage or Journey from FANO to FVLIGNO by the VIA EMILIA
FOSSVMBRVNO.
TRavaling Westward from Fano appear many villages among the Mountains, and then taking the Via Flaminia Southward on the right-hand shore of the River Metauro, you arrive at Fossumbruno, a City plaeed as twere in the midst of the Plain between the Hill and the River. Its Frabricks are modern, by reason that the old were wholly cast down by the Gothes or Longobardi, In the biggest Church remain some old Inscriptions, denoting its antiquity; from which City pursuing the Journey you must pass the River Metauro by a woodden Bridge, then entring the Via Flaminia, on each side passing by pleasant and fertile Fields, you reach the River Candiano, near which lies the Hill Asdrubal, so denominated from the overthrow there given Asdrubal by the abovenamed Consnls. Whence the Via Flaminia, was paved by Augustus to Rome, half a miles length whereof was out thorow a stony Rock with a Chizel, which is twelve paces broad, tis called Forlo, Then were certain Letters inscribed, which age hath worn out, yet their sense remains, viz. That that noble and & laborious, work was performed by Titus Vespasian, Candiano runs for three miles along the Hills, which passed, lies a Plain, and 10. miles thence is Acqualagna, where dyed Totila, King of the Gothes overcome by Narsete as aforesaid, beyond which is the City Cagli, and the Bourg Cariano, built out of the Ruines of the City Lucerla, heretofore standing where now the Bridge is, but destroyed by Narsete, when the perfidious Elenterio, arrogating to himself the Title of Emperor was discomfited▪ beyond which is the heigth of the Alps which terminate the Province of Ancona, and Senigaglia, Sigello and Galdo.
NOCERA.
LAstly upon one of the Apenines, stands Nocera, heretofore famous for the Earthen Vessels there curiously made, now for the Abundance of the Wine called Muscatello, at the foot of the Mountain whereon Nocera stands, is the Valley Trinia, so named from the [Page 125] River Trinia, wherof Silius speaksthus, Triniaeque inglorious humor, calling it un worthy among Rivers, for not being navigable. The way thorow which Valley is very dangerous, beacuse of the necessity to wade several times through the River, where sometimes the poor Travellers are bemired, by reason that in the bottom there is a most stiff mudd, whereby they are oft drowned through their Ignorance of certain Whirl-pools, covered with mudd, not easily to be avoided but by such as are well skilled in the passage. The said vale is 12 miles long, and in it is Foligno.
The Journy from FANA to FOLIGNO and ROME, by a better but longer Way.
BEeyond Fano upon the Adriatick Sea, is Sinigaglia a famous and antient City, first called Sena, from the Senoni who built it. When the Senoni were driven out by the Romans, they made it a Colony together with Castro and Hadria, Dolabella being Consul, about the time that Italy was extended beyond the River Ese, and the Dutchy of Spoleto added to it. Titus Livius in his 27th. book assures us that M. Livius Salinatorus the Consul quartered in Senigaglia when Asdrubal was not above half a mile distant, overlooking all Italy and raising in it great terror, when C. Nerone Collegue of Livy, withdrawing himself from Basiloc [...]ta, with a flying Army of 6000. Foot and 1000. Horse, by a nights march, conjoyned himself with Livy, and the next morn the two Consuls cut in pieces the Army of Asdrubal, and slew the said Captain, while he designed to fly over the Metauro, as afore declared.
ANCONA.
TIs a famous noble rich City, aud hath the most eminent Port in all Italy: whence the Merchants out of Sclavonia, Greece, Dalmatia, and all Europe frequent it. All Writers agree it had its foundation from the Siracusany, flying from the Tyrany of Dionisius, 'Tis likely it became a Colony of the Romans, 485. yeers after Romes building▪ when the Marchiani were overcome by Publius Sempronius, the Consul, and the Confines of Italy enlarged. For then twas necessary to place Roman People on those boundaries. It took its name from Ancon in Greek which signifies an Elbow, in which form is its Port and Harbour a secure Station for Ships. Many Writers (worthy belief) say, that in the time of the Roman Empire twas a renowned City aed well Inhabited for the conveniency of the Harbour, and nobly restored by Trajan the Emperor with incredible expence, whereof some Reliques remain.
It hath fair Fabricks, rich Merchandize, business, and People in good number. 'Tis environed with Walls and Bulworks, there erected, [Page 126] at the charge of the Popes to enable it with resistance against invasions a good part of the Walls are yet of Marble, antiently twas all of Marble, the Port hath strong Pillars to fasten shipping to, and convenient descents to the Water, as also strong Cranes for removing Goods into, and out of the Vessels. Some Medals are yet extant stamped in honour of Trajane with the form of that Port, & a Neptune Crowned in water before the Mouth of the Porte, with the Rudder of a ship in his right-hand, and a Dolphin near. It hath two chains wherewith they shut up the entrance, therein are at all times Ships and Galleys of all sorts. There is an Arch most stately, raised in honour of Trajane, in gratefull acknowledgment of that publick benefit, his restoring the Porte, by the Senate and People of Rome, which Arch although dispoiled of those Ornaments, it formerly had, yet (like the Picture of a fair Woman) it attracts the eyes of the beholders raising wonder in them, moving the Fancy to consider the Art, beauty and proportion of that Piece, from the great squares of Marble and degrees yet to be seen, on all sides shewing a most proportionate and beautifull appearance.
'Tis of no small consideration: That all the Statues and other Ornaments, are carved into, or inlaid in those great square stones, and not fixed outwardly, which Squares too are so close connexed that tis impossible to put in the point of a Knife between them, but looks as if twere one entire Rock, which shewes the skill and Art of the Artificer. On it is inscribed as follows. ‘IMP. CAESARI. DIVI. NERVAE. F. NERVAE. TRAIANO. OPTIMO. AVG. GERMANIC. DACI. CO. PONT. MAX. TR. POT. XIX. IMP. IX. COS. VI. P. P. PROVIDENTISSIMO: PRINCIPI. SENATVS. P. Q. R. QVOD. AC▪ CESSVM. ITALIAE. HOC. ETIAM. ADDITO. EX. PECVNIA. SVA. PORTV. TVTIOREM. NAVIGANTIBVS. REDDIDERIT.’ On the Right-hand. ‘PLOTINAE. AVG. CONIVGI. AVG.’ On the Left-hand. ‘DIVAE. M▪ARCINAE. SORORI. AVG.’ Thereby we see that Divine honours were then given to Trajan and his Sister.
'Tis not ill spent time neither to ascend the Mount Ancona, and behold its Rarities, which is the promontory Cumero, where first is the antient Cathedral Church Saint Ciriaro, of admirable Architecture, and curious Marbles, in its Vestry are infinite Reliques of Saints, and offirings of great valew presented for devotion. One may gather from [Page 127] some verses of Iuvenal that not far distant was dedicate a Temple to Venus but no thing now remains of it. From that height may be seen a large space of Sea, the bending of the Port, the placing of the City and the site of the Promontory it self, so con-joyned with the Appenines, that some say it appears their head, but others more rationally its Arm, reaching hence to Mount Angelo, all along a shore of the Adriatick Sea. As also many near Cities, Castles, and Burges, as Sirolo celebrious for the good Wine called Anconitana, by Pliny, Orbino, Osimo, and others.
Upon a Mount near the River Musone, stands Cingola a Castle built by Titus Labienus, out of the many robaries committed by him, while he was Embassador of C. Caesar and Proconsul in Gallia in that long War. The shape of which Castle we finde engraven upon certain pieces of silver and gold with his Titles, of whose so great Riches, Cicero Silius, Valerius, Max. and Dion. speake scornfully invectively, and bitterly, but now to our Voyage.
The holy house of LORETO.
FIfteen miles being passed you finde placed upon a hill the famous Church of the Virgin Maria de Loreto, visited from all parts of the World by Pilgrims, either through penance enjoyned thereto, or their own vows or devotion, Tis called Loreto, for that in antient timestood near it a Wood of Laurels. Some will have, that in the same place viz the Moūt, stood the Castle Cupra of the Tuscans with the antique Temple of Juno Caprana now tis a Town but yet envroned with Walls, Ditches, Fortresses, and Arms in readiness, to defend it self from the violence and snares of the Corsari, banisht Persons, Robers and other wicked Men, whereby the Inhabitants live securely and are well proviin all things for the receit of strangers. 'Tis a most stately Church, built with squared Stones of excellent Marble of great cost, in the midst whereof the Pilgrims visite that most holy Chamber of the Virgin Mary with a great devotion, which is compassed in with a surrounding square of Marbles engraven and wrought with figures of admirable artifice, but so placed that it toucheth not the Walls thereof in any part, and tis credibly held, that those Walls within which the Queen of Heaven was born and brought up, ought not to be more wrought or adorned by human industry. This Chamber was brought hither from Palestina by Angells, and he is pronounced an Infidel that doubts thereof. having so many grave Authors and dayly Miracles to prove it.
The great quantity of Tablets, Offerings, and Presents, hung upon the Walls, Pillars, and Cornishes of the Church, at the first entrance will raise a certain proness to honour the place in the most obdurat heart. There it clearly appears how great and inspeakable signs the most great God shewes of his Power for the Salvation of human kind, by granting all the prayers of such as with a devout and sincere heart seek him, &c.
The infinite Miracles wrought there, shew that God will be sought in one place more than another, in the Church hang many pourtraies of human misery (as in a theatre) which notwithstanding our mercifull God conduceth to a good end, as particularly by divers accidents by Water, evil Times, Shipwracks, Thunderbolts Earthquakes [Page 128] Destructions, Precipitous falls, braking of bones, Sicknesses, diseases, Plague, Slaughters, Robberies, Prisons, Torments, hunger, Want, and many others, which a hundred tongues can hardly explicate as Virgil saith.
With which afflictions God is pleased to exercise his Children, to expresse his Clemency more than his Justice, that by it we may more truly prepare our hearts and our Souls worthy for his habitation, and for our eternal bliss.
In this Church are many rare and pretious gifts of several Princes, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the Vestry are kept the Vests, Vessels of Gold and Silver and other Riches of immense valew, and about the Chnrch are many Tablets of Verses in praise of the Church.
The Nobleness and Magnificence of the Church of LORETO, compendiously drawn out of the five Books of Floratio Torsellino a Jesuist.
ALthough no day passeth wherein the Cel of the holy Virgin is not visited by many strangers, as well Poles, Spaniards, Germans, Portugals, & other Oltramontaneous and Oltramarine Nations as Italians) yet there are two seasons in the yeer, when there is exceeding concourse to wit, Spring and Autumn. In the Spring begins the solemnity, the day of the Conception of our Lord, and in Autumn the day of the birth of our Lady, and each solemnity continues for 3. Moneths, wherein each day the house of Loreto is repaired to by great multitudes of people, the greater part whereof go in companies with their Ensignes, having carryed before them a Crucifix with the Images of Saints. Every Company hath its own governors & Priests who sing, & the Donatives offered follow, which are of more or lesse valew according to the quality of the Persons and their Devotions, which method of going & singing praiers & praises to God, excites great piety in the Pilgrims, and people who follow (though not in order) in infinite multitudes. When at a distance the Companies begin to see the Church (which is seated on a hill above the Fields) they internally are moved to devotion, and cast themselves upon the ground weeping for joy, saluting the Mother of God, and then pursue their journey, some renting their garments and putting on sackcloth, others beating themselves, and being beaten by others with many stripes on the nakedshoulders. In the mean time the Priests of Loreto, go to meet these Companies, introducing them into the Church, with solemn musick, Trumpets, and Bells, when they approach the dore the Companies again fall flat on the ground saluting the Virgin from the bottome of their hearts, with such zeal, that the beholders are moved to tears.
[Page 127]Arrived at the Chamber of the Virgin, which shines most clear by the many lights brought in their hands, they contemplate the Effigies of the Madonna, with such Piety, Tears, Sighs, and humility, as is wonderfull, and many affix them selves so much to consider the place and Actions which the Mother of Christ there performed, that were they not driven out by other companies who overtake them, they would never remove thence, but such as come from far Countreys, not being able to preserve the order of Companies, resort thither in the best manner they can, the most part if not all communicate there, and leave their offerings at the Altar, but the most precious offerings are consigned to the deputies, whose charge is to set them and the givers names down in a Book, for perpetual remembrance. The Altar erected by the Apostles, and the effigies of the Virgin Mary, are alwaies clothed from time to time with sumptuous garments, aud ornaments of great valew both in Gold and Jemms.
The Church is alwaies full with wax lights and Lamps burning, resounding with musick and Organs, but what more imports tis filled with the Spirit of God, which terrifies the bad, rejoices the good, heals the infirm, and works stupendious miracles. The number of the Pilgrims at Easter useth to be 12000. and at the Penticost and nativity of the Virgin not much inferiour if not more, there hath been the day of the said Nativity in our times, and the day following above two hundred thousand Persons which hath necessitated the intendents, to make a rail round about the Cel whereby to exclude and admit whom they think fit, that they may not be opprest by Multitude. Moreover because in all times the Companies of Souldiers intending for the Wars resort thither first to confess and communicate, the Road is so well accommodated with Inns and houses of Reception, that any Person though delicate and weak, may make the journey on foot, besides that the continual concourse of fresh companies to and fro, renders the way less heavy; this convenience invited M. Antonio Colonna (not to speak of others) a famous, rich, and great Commander, to take that Journey on foot. These Companies having seen the countenance of the Virgin, rejoyce spiritually, and commonly acknowlege they have gathered great benefit from the Pilgrimage though difficult. Were it not too long & difficult twere worth ones pains to recount the vowes there made, and rendred to God, how many there escape out of the mire of Sin, how many are there loosed from the intricate tyes of carnal and forbidden pleasures, how many there lay down their hatred and old envy, how many men almost desperate to do more good, and bound already to the Gates of hell by compact between them and the Divel, yet there deliver themselves from the Enemy, and recover a state of Salvation; finally, as the Soul is more pretious than the Body, so the Miracles of the blessed Virgin of Loreto wrought for the Soul, are more than those that are for the Body, so that to discourse more at large the things touched here, were a desire to measure and confine the divine power by humane frailty. Which to avoid, tis better to let it alone, than undertaking it to rest unsatisfied, and although for the most part Fame surpasseth the thing spoken of; yet whoever hath seen Loreto, must confess Fame could not speak so much of it and its glory as he there saw and contemplated.
The remarkable and wonderfull Site of the House of LORETO.
TIs credibly reported, that the house of the blessed Virgin leaving (of its own accord) Galilea, first went into Dolmatia and there stopped in a Wood of Marchiano, whence it went into a Mountain belonging to two Brothers who were at discord, but to remain there for a time, God having determinated that it should stay where now it stands, and we hope will ever continue if some sins of the adjcent People make not the place unworthy and tis presumed that since it came from Galilee and the mount because the sins of the People there made it unworthy, so the knowlege the Virgin had of the quality of this People made her transmit her habitation hither and the often mutations of the places makes it evident to all, that this is the true Stanza or Cell of the blessed Virgin departed from Galilea.
It arrived in this Province in Italy, in the yeer 1295. and in lesse thana yeer changed its place of stay three times though but within compasse of a mile, but who will consider its now aboade must find that the wit of man could not invent a better.
P. Battista Mantouano Viccar General of the Garmelites (among other grave Authers) to whom this house was first given in custody before it left Galilee) averrs the trnth of the former relations: Societies of Priests, that are Liuguists have it now in government whereby to be the better able to take the confessions of all Nations and give absolutions, &c.
RECANATI.
FRom Loreto the way leads to Recanati, a new City built out of the Reliques of the old Helvia Ricina, whereof some will have Macerata to be built also, which Helvia was once magnificently repaired by Helvio, many of its old foundations and the bases of an Amphitheatre yet appear upon the Road. From Loreto to Recanati, is three mile of very rough Way, over Mountains. In it is held a publick fair every yeer in September, in the great Church lies Pope Gregory the 12th. who in the Council of Constanza renounced the Papacy, tis seated on the top of a high and spatious Mountain environed with the Apenines, Gingolo, the Sea, and some other little Hills. Beyond which is a plain, in it, San Severino, heretofore a Bourg, but made a City by Pope Sixtus quintus, Math [...]lica and Fabriano, famous for the Pure writing paper there made, and then Gamerino, a well fortisied place abounding no less in Riches than People. It alwaies [Page 131] assisted the Romans, aud hath produced many emminent Men. Through the Vale Camerino, you may go to Foligno and Spoleto.
MACERATA.
KEEping the direct Way thorow the Mountains you meet Macerata, famous for greatnesse and beauty, and the most noble City of the Marchiano. In it is a College of Lawyers, called the Rota, deputed to hear Causes, and the Residence of the Governors of all the Province, Two great Causes for its full peopling: About it ly several Bourgs, Castles, and Towns, as Tolentino, where they reverence the reliques of San Nicolo, of the Angustine Order, who there lived holily: Montalto, Fermo, Ascolo, and Seravalle, beyond which lies Santa Anatolia, whence through a Valley lies the way to San Foligno, which is two days journy from Loreto.
FOLIGNO.
THe Longobardi▪ having destroyed Foro Flaminio, the Inhabitants out of its Ruines built Foligno. The City is rich in Merchandize, small but pleasant, it hath a goodly porte, whence the Citizens repelled the assaults of the Longobardi, the Cities Perugia and Assisiaare Westward twenty miles from Foligno.
All along the Flaminian Way, ly most flourishing Fields, planted with all sorts of Fruits, Vines, Gardens, Olive-Trees, & Almonds, praised to the skies, by Propertins Virgil, and other Poets.
On the right hand lies Mevania, the Countrey of Propertius and its Territory, which produceth large Bulls and Oxen, on the left was the Antient Temple of Metusca, near it is the Source of the River Clitumnus, issuing wirh a clear and plentifull head of Water, enough to water the Fields of Bertagna, which at its second stage, had the name of a God given it by the blind Gentiles, to whom tis believed the neighbouring Temple of Marble (now antique yet noble) was dedicate in old time. Tis made in that form (which Vitruvius writing of the order of Temples, teaches that those of Fountains, Nimphes, Venus, Flora, and Proserpina. ought to have, to wit to have some similitude with their Gods) and hath in the Ornaments of the outside leaves of Bears-foot, and Holm tree, which demonstrate the fruitfulness of Clitumnus, which the Antients observed, so fatned the adjacent Pastures, that thereby the Herds of Cattel grew very great, and ( Pliny, Lucan, and Servius the Commentator of Virgil) a ver [...] that those Cattel drinking of the water of Clitumnus became white.
Out of these Herds the Roman Conquerors used to select the most fair, and in their triumphs to sacrifice them for a happy Augury to the victory brought with them. The same also were led by the Emperors, (which triumphed) with their horns guilt, and bathed with the water of this River, unto the Campidoglio, and there sacrificed to Iove and other Gods, which made the Spoleti [...] to honour Clitumnus as a God, and to it were dedicated by the antients, Temples and Groves, as may be collected from Propertins in these words.
Virgil the Prince of Poets in the second of his Gorgicks, speaking politely of the praise of Italy, saith thus.
Silius also touches upon this conceipt in the Carthaginian War in few words to wit
SPOLETO.
IN the same day the Traveller may go from Foligno, to Spoleto, a splendid City deficient in nothing, the Refidence of the Longobardi Princes now ennobled by the Title of the Duke of Ombra, antiently twas a strong Roman Colony so made by Litius, and reduced by the Romans, when they had overthrown the Ombri, in the Consulate of G. Claudius Centone, and Marius Sempronius Tuditanus. Which Colony (after the Romans had received the Rout near Trasineno) was so bold as to withstand Hannibal the Conqueror, and taught him to gather what vast strength the Roman Empire was of from the power of one sole Colony, by forceing him to turn tayl, & retreat after the losse of many men into the Marchiana. The old broken structures shew that it flourished greatly in the Romans time. One may yet see the Palace of Theodorick King of Goths, destroyed by the Goths but rebuilt by Narsete Captain for Justinian the Emperor. The Temple of Concord, the foundation of a Theatre and of stately Aquiducts.
TERNI.
THe following day through the Valley Strattura (closed in by Hills, Rocks, and cliffs of the Apenines) you reach Terni called Iteranna by the Antients from its inclosure between the branches of the River Nera. The old Ruins of the Edifices shew it to have been in all things greater than at present, and within memory tis known much decay came to it by intestine hatred and civil discords.
Many antient Marble Inscriptions shew that twas a free City of the Romans, but at what time it received the title of a free City, and the Prerogative of Roman Denizenship, is not certainly known Pighius observes from a great Marblestone fixed in the Walls of the Cathedral Church, that twas built 544. yeers before the Consulate of C. Domitius Enobarbus, and M. Camillus Scribonianus, who were Consuls 624. yeers after the foundation of Rome, and that sacrifice was made in Terni, to the health of Liberty, and the Genius of the City, [Page 133] to gratifie Tiberius Caesar, who then elevated himself from the feet of Seianus: The said Pighius deduceth thus much from the Title on the said Marble, and in his Annales of the Senate and People of Rowe sets it down more distinctly: we conclude from the whole that twas built 80. yeers after Rome, under Numa, and then obtained its title of a Municipal City. The Territory of Terni through the site, and the usefullnesse of the sweet Waters, is all of a fat soyl, being exposed to a benign Sun, which in some part appologizeth for what Pliny saies, to wit, that the Meadows are mowed 4 times in a yeer, and afterwards fed, besides that Turnips have there lately grown of 30. pound weight (whereof four makes an Asses Load) and Pliny saies 40. pound weight.
NARNI.
KEEping the Via Flaminia, you arrive at Narni, placed on a rough Hill of difficult ascent, at the foot whereof runs the River Nera, roaring through the breakings of the Rocks, wherewith it encounters; Livy and Stephano Gramatico, derive the name of the City from that of the River, and Martial in the 7th. book of his Epigrames describes it thus.
The same Livy affirms, that the City was first called Nequino, and the Inhabitants thence Nequinati, when subdued by the Romans, from the paultry and wicked customes of the People, but afterwards the Roman Colony despising that name, called it Narni from the Rivers name.
The Triumphs in the Campidoglio set forth that the Nequinati were confederate with the Sanniti, and with them overcome by M. Petinus the Consul, who therefor triumphed in the 454th. yeer of Rome, and then made a Colony as aforesaid.
Now the Cities form is long, and fair in Fabricks, and plentifully supplyed from its near Campagna, though in the memory of our Ancestors, and since it hath been much turmoyled with troubles and Warrs. Without Narni over the River are wonderfull great Arches of a Bridge, which did conjoyn two high and precipitous Mountains between which the River passed, some believe this Bridge was built by Augustus with the spoils of the Siacambri, and Procopius affirms it, adding that more eminent Arches were never seen, the Reliques now appearing demonstrate it the work of a flourishing Empire, and of excessive expence, Martial tis supposed speaks herof in these words.
The stones of this Bridge are cecmented with Iron and Lead, one Arch now to be seen is 200. foot broad and 150. foot high, under which tis said is buried great Treasure.
[Page 134]A stream is brought into the City which passeth for 15. miles under most high Mountains, and supplies thr [...] brass fountains; there is also a water of N [...]ni called caristia or Famine, because it never appear [...] but the yeer before some great fami [...], as it happened in Anno 1589. it yields also many healthfull wat [...]rs.
Forty miles off Narni to go in the way to Rome is a Mountainous Rock, through which the Way is cut with Chizels 30. foot deep and 15 broad, beyond which is pleasant way to Ottricoli a mile from Tevere.
Passing by the antiquities of the Via Flaminia and the vast mines of Ottricoli, you come to Tevere, beholding by the way great Reliques of publick structures, as Temples, Baths, Aqueduct [...], Conservatories of water, a Theatre and Amphitheatre, which testify the grandezza and magnificence of that municipal City, while the Roman Empire flourished.
Two inscriptions of statues dedicate to the Father and Daughter by the publick, make appear that they built those Baths at their own expence, and then gave them to the publique, both which are inscribed on Marble as followeth. ‘L. Iulio L. F. Pal. Iuliano. IIII. Vir. AEd. III. 1. D. IIII. Vir Quin que Quin (que) 11. Dast Patr [...]no Municipi Plebs. Ob. Merita L. D. D. D.’ ‘Iuliae Lucillae L. Iulii. Iuliani. Fil Patroni municipi [...]. P [...]ter Termas Ocriculanis [...] Solo. E [...]ctas [...]. [...]ecunia▪ Donavit Dec Aug. Plebs L. D. D. D.’
Whence you passe by the Town Tevere near the stone Bridge built by Augustus, which Bridge was so great, that with its mines it tumed and hindred the course of the River; thence coasting the foot of the Mountain Soratte, at night you lodge at B [...]gnano.
Pope Clement the 8th commanded (imitating Augustus) to his great costs and no less glory, this Bridge to be repaired; here terminated the Burro [...]ghs of Rome in the time▪of the Emperour Aurelianus; and we read that in former times Rome was 150. miles in ci [...] cuit; and that while Constantin [...] reigned, the Walls and buildings from Tevere to Rome were so thick, that who was but seldome conversant there took it for the City of Rome. The River being past you meet Borgheto, the City Castellan, and Capr [...]rola, and farther on is the B [...]idge Milvio or Mole, where God shewed to Constantine a Cross wi [...]h these words, In hoc signo vinces, with which encouragement Constantine fought and overcame Maxentius the Tyrant, by which Bridge one passeth the Tevere or Ti [...]er, and so arrives to the Suburbs of Rome, entring the Porta Flaminia, now called Porta del Popolo.
LUCCA.
THis City glories, in the universal agreement of all Authors, that tis one of the most antient of Italy, and they that speak of its latest Original attribute it to Lucchio Lucnmone Laerte of Tuscany, who reigned 46. yeers after the foundation of Rome. from whom some say it took its name Lucca, but some others aver [...] twas built long before that time, even by the Grecians before the destruction of Troy. It alwaies was for its strength and power of much consideration: and that made C. Cempronius after the overthrow he received from Hannibal at Trebbia, and the lesse fortunate day fought before Piacenza to recover Lucca, with the remnant of his Army as to a place that yeelded asecure retreat; and the valorous Narsete, who for the Emperour Iustinian, freed Italy of the Goths, could not have gained it with his 7 Moneths tedious and most rigorous siege, had he not by a certain wile and cunning perswaded or rather intreated the Citizens to deliver their City of their own accord and with their own terms. Its Seignors or Lords have so well added to its former strength, that no City in Italy comes near it, for it hath eleaven strong Bulworks in lesse than 3. miles circuit, and a vast wall, with works within, upon which the Trees planted, the pleasant and fertile hills surrounding it, and the stately Palaces in the heart of it renders it a most delightfull City.
Strabo reports the Romans often raised there many foot Souldiers and some Horse, and Gasper Sardo writes that at the Naval fight bethe Christians and Sarazens in anuo 1179. Lucca had seaven Galleys, under the command of Nino delli Obezi its Citizen, a valiant Captain, who was also Lieutenant of those of the Church in the same Fleet, when they obtained immortal fame in that Victory, and in 1303. the Lucchesi colleagued with the Florentines against the Pistoiesi, and of the 16000. foot and 1600. Horse, then in the Army, the Lucchesi had 10000. Foot, and 600. Horse.
This City was beloved, and held in great esteem by the Romans conceding to it, the fo much coveted privilege of a municipal City, and making it a Colony.
We read in p [...]rticular, that (at the needfull repairing of Rome) C. Caesar passed a winter there with two hundred Senators. whereof we [...] Pompey and Crasus, who here complotted and constituted the first Triumvirate. Near the Church of Saint A [...]gustine, are some Reliques of a noble Temple dedicate to Saturn, with the foot-steps of an Amphitheatre, infallible testimonies of its Grandure.
In the time that Tuscany with the rest of Italy divided into 12 Governments was under the Longobardi, Lucca was the appointed, residence for the Regent of Tuscany, where (as such) Desideri [...]s resided, when in a [...]no 577. he was created King of the Longobardi. Afterwards twas governed by Marqueses, who also resided there as in the Metropolis of that Province, where the Marchese Adalberto dwelt with infinite Splendour, and so nobly in anno 902. received there Lewi [...] the Emperour, that he admiring the Kingly magnificence and grea [...]nesse wherein the Marchese lived, said to one of his Intimats, that [...]ruly (abstracting from the Title) he saw not wherein the [Page 136] Marquess was inferiour to him. Among the, Marqueses of Tuscany, Bonilf da Lucca for his great Riches, his own valour and merits, was so much renowned, that he obtained for his wife, Beatrice Daughter of Corradns the second, and Sister of Henry the third, whose Issue La Contessa Matilda, in a short course of time, remained Heiress and Lady of this and many other Cities of Italy, and at her death bequeathed the City Ferrara and that state which is called the Patrimony of Saint Peter to the Roman Church, by her last Will and Testament, which is yet preserved in Lucca.
Afterwards Lucca began to relish the beloved fruits of its antient Liberty, and in the yeer 1288. obtained a confirmation of it from the Emperour Rodolphus, in which times being chiefly ruled by the Guelfan Faction, it was a long time preserved in good amity, and confederate with the Florentine Republique. Wherefore in Anno 1304. when the Florentine Republique was much perplexed by the Factions Bianchi, and Neri, the Lucchesi were requested by the Florentines to aid them, in repressing their tumultuous and confused Government, and when absolute power was given to the Lucchesi over all Florence, from Lucca were sent some of the most prudent Citizens, accompanied with 9000. Souldiers, the most part horse: Who being suddainly arrived, settled their guards up and down the City as they pleased, and as if the City Florence had been absolutely under their Do minion: which done, they took in hand the government, and with the entire satisfaction of that Republique, in sixteen days, they quieted the tumults and Factions, and established the form of the Government for the future.
Some time after the which Lucca was governed by Ugoccione and by Castruccio its Citizen, an excellent Captain, who with his own single valour kept the neighbouring Common-wealth in continual fear and suspicion, and finally after it had undergon for severall yeers through adverse fortune, the tyranny of divers Governours, its Usurpers; It reobtained for a certain sum of mony its former Liberty, from Charls the 4th. which (except from the yeer 1400. to 1430. when twas usurped by Paolo Gusinigi its Citizen) it hath ever since enjoyed most happily, and doth at present rejoice therein, and live in great tranquillity yet under the protection of the Catholick King, and with such security, that those Gentlemen to w [...]om the Goverment of the Republique is committed, neither watch at, nor take care for any thing more than the publique good, and Union o [...] all its Citizens, the two principal and necessary Foundations, for the maintenance of the Republique. Its administration and Government is an Oligarchy.
This Clty is replenisht with many good and Artfull Structures, and a great number of stately Churches; Among which Its Cathedral, dedicate to Saint Martin, retains the chief prerogative. This Church hath been much adorned and favoured by the Popes, and first by Alexande [...] the second, who in the yeer of our Lord 1070. (as we read in Baronius) was pleased to take upon himself the pains to consecrate it, then Urban the sixth in anno 1382. there celebrated Mass the night of the Nativity of our Lord, and honoured the chief standard bearer, with the reading the Epistle by his order. The Bishop and Canons are endowed with great Privileges: being allowed the use [Page 137] of the Archiepiscopal Ornaments, that is a Cross and Pall: and the Canons are faculted to bear the Priests cope, and purple Sattin robes, and the Mitre of white Sattin, More Cardinalium, and the Bishop is so great, that the Canons acknowledge no other Superiour but the Apostolick Sea.
Among the many graces wherewith this Church is favoured by the most high God, some may especially be considered; first that Lucca was the first City of Tuscany, that (as Fr. Leandro and others recount) received the light of the holy faith, which happened in the 44th. yeer of our Salvation, by the means of Saint Paulino Antiocheno, the Disciple of Saint Peter, crowned a Martyr upon the hill S. Iuliano, by Anozino President in Pisa. Secondly, that in the time of Charles the Great, with most singular favour it obtained the holy Countenance or Visage, ( Volto Santo) formed and placed miraculously by a divine hand, on the venerable Statue of the Saviour of the World: framed by Nichodemus his Disciple, when he stood as 'twere bereaved of senses, with consulting to form the head with such perfection as might give honour to the Statue.
In it lie the bodies of S. Paolino, Rigolo and Frediano. Its principal Protectors, with those of 33. other Saints, whereof 14. were Lucchesi. In the yeer 1588. was found here a Miraculous Image of our Lady, through whose mediation God hath here done wonderfull graces to the faithfull of divers Nations. It hath afforded Popes, Cardinals, Lords, and famous Captains in great numbers with exquisite Sholars: whereof one must be mentioned, to wit Fryer Panigni, having so great a renown through all parts of the world for his elaborate and exact Translation of the holy Scripture out of the Hebrew into the Latin Tongue, whom we will set alone though many others in several Sciences, Qualities, and Honours might be well remembred with him. Many noble Families quitted this their Countrey, either to avoid the plagues, or tyrannies of Usurpers, and retreated to Venice and Genoua, where some of them are in that honour as to be admitted Partners in the government of those States as if originally of those Republiques.
The Territories of Lucca are small, but through the Industry of the Inhabitants, most fertile and abounding in all things, and so well peopled, that they have eighteen thousand Men enrolled in the Militia, besides those of the City: In them lies those so health, affording Bathes, celebrated by many Historians and other writers, whither annually resort from all parts infinite infirm and Lame Persons, who for the most part return comforted and recovered: In the way whereunto they pass two Bridges over the River Serchio, whose Arches are so large that they are wonderfull to the beholders: And tis certain all Europe cannot shew two Bridges so noble and fair.
Many other remarkable things might be inserted of this most noble City and its State, but to avoid prolixity, and pursue the stile begun, the more curious are referred to the particular writers who treat thereof most copiously.
GENOUA.
THis City is head of the Province Liguria, situate on the Sea shore at the foot of very high Mountains which though slerile by nature by the Inhabitants industry are become most fertile and produce most necessaries besides those delights which ly on the South part of it. Its ayr is good, though somewhat enclineing to hot and dry tis built in part upon hills and in part upon a Plain or Level. On the Maritine part Westward, It hath a Port may well merit the name of the most importent of Italy. It enjoyes the Treasure of Liberty, and is governed in form of a Republique, all its state being content with that form, knowing that to the obedient Life Honour and Goods, under that government are in no hazard. It stands between two Rivers the one on the East 70. miles long, the other on the West a 100. In the River on the Levant about 6. miles from the City is the comely Town of Mervi, which plentifully stores it with Fruits and Flowers all the Winter. Tis Mistress and sole Governess of the Island of Corsica, whence in time of need they can advance a good quantity of Souldiers not inferiour in Arms or Valour to any other Nation. The People of Corsia most willingly yeelding them Obedience, for their protection, and that costs them but a quarter of a Crown annually for each fire, and some other incensible tax. Every two yeers the Republique sends thither a Governour and the other Lawgivers and Judges, who haviug finished their Offices, are arraigned by two Gentlemen impowred thither to that effect, who without any trouble to the subject, do them justice against any Governour or Judge at their own doors, who hath done them wrong: Which rule they also observe through all other parts of their state. On all part of the City are infinite pleasant Gardens and Pallaces beautified with all that Art can add to them or Riches procure their Structures being alla Moderna though somewhat high in most parts by reason that the City is but small, so that they are necessitated to make the best use of their Room which renders the streets in most places narrow and in some a little obscure. Though one street may be well termed the Mistress of the World called Strada Nova, being spatious, long, even, and on each side embellished with most stately Marble Pallaces, the fairest whereof belongs to the Duke of Oria. It hath a most spatious Port in form of a Theatre compassed in with noble Structures, which though defended by a most magnificent Mole (judged the greatest in Christendome) yet is when the South and Southwest Winds blow very tempestuous. Opposite to it is a Pharos bearing a Lanthern (for light to ships in the night time) of an extraordinary bigness. Darsina is a haven to it also, which is a sure retreat for Galleys and shipping at all seasons: The Galleys being there layed up in their several classis. For publick Edifices it hath the Merchants Hall. The publick Granaries the Dukes Pallace with the Armory of 30000. Men. And their Churches which though (in respect of others of Italy) they have not so much Beauty, that once seen they yeeld a Gusto to a second view, yet for their polisht Marble and inward Ornaments, were they placed any where but in Italy might well merit a larger Account. In [Page 139] Saint Lorenzo the Cathedral Church is shewed to Persons of quality an Emerald of inestible price: as also the sumptuous Chapel of San Gio Battista, wherein they adore his Ashes.
Who delights to see Pictures of great Maisters must repair to the Palace of Prince D'Ora, reaching from the bottom of the shore to the top of the Mountains, divided into three Gardens. In the fi [...]st whereof the Terrases and Porticues bore up one above another with Marble Pillars, the Fountain of Eagles, and the Family of Neptune are very magnificent. On one side of which is that famous Cage of Iron work of so vast extent, that it encloseth a wood of Cypres and other Trees: The other two are filled with Grotts Orange Trees, and other delights. And who is curious to see Statues and Pictures, may repair with fredome to the Pallaces of the Signori Giustiniano, Pallavicino, Horatio, Chiavari, and Giovan, Caclo Doria; who have collections of such Rarities of so great valew, as is scarce to be believed a Treasure for a private Man. Two Stautes which Giustiniano hath for their incomparable and Price deserve particuler mention, to wit, an antient Cupid of Marble sleeping, and an antique head with a body to it, esteemed most rare antiquities.
Religion so flourishes in Genoua, that they may (with thanks to God) say that tis there in the hig [...]h of Glory.
It contains about a hundred thousand Souls more or less: out of which in all Ages have proceeded Eminent Sholars and Souldiers.
Which shall end the relation here with this short Addition, that whosoever for delight sees Genoua, must repair thither in the begining of Summer, who for profit or Merchandize may take their own conveniency. To take a perfect view, and a full prospect of the City, in a calm and serene day you must embark in a small Boat, and eloign on the Sea the distance of an ordinary Sight, where the City seems so to be united with the Burroughs, and both so conjoyned afford so fair an Object, as must be confest to be a most beautifull and noble Prospective.
And who would behold Genoua from a high place, must ascend the Steeple of the Church of S. Benigno, and the Pharos where the Lanthorn stands.
In the Church [...] Saint Iohn the Baptist among its other Reliques, they pretend to have the heads of Saint Lavrence, and Saint Sebastian the Martyr, the Arms of Saint Matthew and Saint Theodore the Martyr and the right hand of Saint Iames the less, together with a certain vessel of Calcidonian stone, bestowed on this Church by Pope Innocent the 8th. which they say to be the same dish wherein the Daughter of Herodias brought in the head of Saint Iohn Baptist to her Mother. In the same Church lies the body of S. Siri, or rather Sylus, the third Bishop of this City, under the high altar with this Epitaph.
THE HISTORY OF ITALY, BEING A Compendious DESCRIPTION OF ROME THE Mistress of the WORLD, with an Account of all particulars therein worth Observation as well Divine as Humane.
The Second PART.
Ammianus Marcellinus in the 14 th. Book of his History speaks after this manner of ROME.
Tis not a little wonder that Virtue and Fortune (whom the world conclude almost at perpetual discord) should accord together in that instant of time, when Rome for its agrandizing, had so much need of their united force. By which their conjoyned strengths, Rome augmented her Empire to that Greatness, that she subjugated the whole World. Tis worth considering the Paralell between her and a Childe: Who in its first [Page 142] Infancy creeps, when she began to be built and peopled: then it acquires vigour & strength, for Adolescential Exercises, so she then warred only with her neighbours, but when arrived to more full strength is employed in Manly disputes: So she when arived to be 300. yeers old, and increased both in vigour and People, began to pass Mountains and Seas, pursuing Warr into the farthest Countreys, where she obtained and brought home innumerable Victories and Triumphs from the Barbarous and wilde Nations: In the end, having made infinite noble Attempts, and acquired whatever upon Earth through Valour was to be obtained (as twere arrived to mature Age) she begun to acquiesce, whereby the better to enjoy those good benefits and Advantages, which she had then provided for: Comitting the Troubles of Government to the Emperors (as to her Natural Children) for her better and more pleasing repose: At which time although the People participated of that publique Ease and Profit, and the Souldiery moved not for her further advancement: yet such was the Care of her Greatness: that the Roman Majesty was no less Reverenced than feared.
Virgil in praise of Rome wrote these Verses.
And Ovid surnamed Naso composed these of Rome.
Who saith also in another place:
[Page 143]In another.
Divers other testimonies and Declarations of the Magnificence of Rome were writ by Ausonius Claudianus, Rutilius Numantianus, old Authors, and by Iulius Caesar Scaliger, Faustus Sabeus a Brescian, and other modern writers, which for brevity sake are here omitted but without comitting an unpardonable fault, we must not leave out these elegant verses of Marcus Antonius Flaminius, viz.
Nor these of M. Valerius Martialis.
The praise of ROME written by STEFANO PIGHIO.
ROME the Glorious is replenisht with stupendious Structures, as well publique, appertaining to the Popes, as private, belonging to Cardinals and Princes, who at this time frequent that City. The Gardens behind the Vatican called Belvedere, from their beauty and pleasantness, are no less estimable: In which Pope Sistus quartus, erected a noble Palace without regard to his expence, soe it might be excellently carved, painted, guilt, and embellish't with rare figures, thereby to make it a Kingly Receptacle for entertainment of such eminent Princes and Lords, as should repair to Rome: Before the Front of that Pallace where the Pope resides, is a most stately Porticue composed in the form of a Theater, raised some steps above the Earth, and garnished with many marble Statues: and on the western part is another Porticue which stands between the one and the other Palace, ( Belveder being near the Popes Palace) and will be when finish't according to the design, a most stately Piece and of great value.
But of greater wonder are those footsteps and marks of old Rome which seem rather the works of Gyants than of ordinary men: although [Page 144] (compared to what twas) much inferiour by the great fallings and decayes of Towers, and Walls in divers places, where stood formerly publique Edifices. Martial in most elegant Verse sets the Theater of Titus Vespacian, before the seaven wonders of the World: and not unworthily, since to this day, it creates admiration in all judicious Men, by its prodigious Structure. Who admires not the Pantheon, or the Circalean, Dioclesian, and Constantinian Baths, which Fabricks are built with rare art, and so great that they seem Castles and Towns: Or the vast number of Arches, Triumphals, Collumns, Sculptures of whole Armies figured to the Life: Pyramids, and Obelisks, of so vast bigness, that who would transport one of them must build a ship large and strong enough to float and sail laden with a Mountain. What shall we say of the great entire Statues, of the Castori on Horseback? of the great bodies of Rivers prostrate on the ground? of so many brass Statues and Vessels capacious to bath in? or of those Marble Tablets and Pillars with hundreds of other excellencies. Each of which are worthy of, and would fill up a particular volume if worthily described.
The Gardens of Belvedere, contain some Statues of white Marble far bigger than the body of a Man, as of Apollo, of Hercules, of Venus, of Mercury, of the Genius of the Prince, thought by some to be of Anthony, of Adrian the Emperor, of a Nymph leaning near a River, judged by some to be Cleopatra, and of Laocoon the Trojan with his two Sons, enveloped in the twistings of the Serpents, a piecemuch applauded by Pliny, cut out of one entire Stone, which that it might receive as excelling shapes, and forms as could be carved by industry or Art, Agesandro, Polidoro, and Asenodoro, three rare Rodian Sculptors applyed their joynt Industry, study, & pains: This curious Sculpture, was preserved by miracle of Fortune, at the destruction of the Palace of Titus Vespasian the Emperour, as also of the River Tevere, or Tyber with the Wol [...]e giving suck to Romulus and Remus carved out of one tire Stone, and likewise the great Nilus leaning on a Sphinx, on the heigth whereof stand sixteen Children, denoting the sixteen Cubits of the increase of that River, observed by the AEgyptians, and every one of those Children is in such manner figured, that it excellently describes the effect, which at that rise and increase it wrought on the Land of AEgypt sa, for example, the sixteenth Child is placed upon a shoulder of the River, with a basket of flowers and fruits upon its head, and this Child signifies that the increase of the River, to the sixteenth Cubit, enriches the, Earth to the production of great plenty of Fruit and brings gladness to it. The 15th, signifies that all is secure and well, and the 14th. brings joyfulness, but all the other increases under 14. are unhappy and miserable as Pliny observes in the ninth Chapter of his fifth Book of Natural Histories; and moreover some Creatures which are only proper to that Countrey with its plants, called Calamo a Cane, Colo Cassia AEgyptian Bean, and Papiro called Papir Reed, whereof they were wont to make great leaves to write on, & thereof was the first paper made, & thence as is supposed was that name borrowed which are no where to be found out of AEgypt, no more than the Monsters to wit, Hippotami or the Sea Horse, whose Feet are like an Ox, back and mayn like a Horse, tusks like a Boar, with a long winding tayl. Ichneumoni, [Page 145] the Indian or AEgyptian Ratt, whose property is to creep into the Crocodiles Mouth when he gapeth, to eat his Bowels and so kill him: Trochili, a Sea-foul friend to the Crocodil, somewhat like to a wagtail, or Sea Wood▪ cock: Ibidi the black stork, a Bird in AEgypt, which hath stiff Leggs, and a long Bill, wherewith when its sick, it administreth it self a Glister of Sea Water, Sciachi, Land Crocodiles: Crocodrili, Sea Crocodiles, which can only move the upper Jaw or Chaps. And also the pourtraits of the Terrositi, a generation of Pigmies or dwarfs incessant Men, perpetual Enemies of the Crocodiles, whereof Pliny in the 25th. Chapter of his eighth Book of Natural Histories treats at large. together with many other singular Statues in the said gardens of Belvedere, which when seen, thorowly examined, and understood by intelligent Persons, yeeld them great delight and satisfaction.
In the B [...]th of Pope Pius the 4th. is a work of great esteem, being an Ocean cut out of the fairest Marble. The Antients thought the Ocean to be Prince of the Waters, and Father of all things, a Friend to Prometheus; And that by means of the humidity and liquidness of the Waters, all things seem to generate from Seeds with the assistance of the Heavens: therefore they believed that every thing received Life from Water, with the favourable friendship of the temperat Genius of the Caelestial Bodies. This figure hath the Body covered with a thin vail, whereby they would signifie, that the Sea shrouds the Heavens with Clouds of its own vapours, meaning by the Sea, the whole generation of waters, and they denote the Earths being covered with plants by the Hairs beard and ordinary skinns beingall figured by the leaves of divers tender Plants. It hath two horns placed upon the Forehead. First because the Sea provoked by the winds roars like a Bull; and secondly because the Sea is governed by the Moons motion, which they called Cornuta, thirdly, because the Sea is called Father of Fountains and Rivers, which they figured Cornuti or horned. In its right hand is put the Rudder of a Ship, in token that the Waters (by means of the Ships being guided by these Rudders) are furrowed as best likes the Pilot, of which Comodity they feigned Prometheus to be the Inventor, they have placed it upon a Maritine Monster, to demonstrate that the Sea is generator of many wonderfull Monsters: One of which to the purpose is seen in Rome in the Antique marble sphere of Atlas placed among the celestial signes, upon this very occasion: Tis said that Andromada contending for beauty with the Nymphs of the Sea, being overcome, was by them given to this Monster, which devoured her, out of whose body (slain on the shore of Perseus who would have saved that Virgin) there issued so much blood, that it dyed the Sea red, whence that Sea was afterwards called Citreo or the Red Sea, for all which the Citreo is not that gulfe, which is vulgarly called the red Sea, but is that part of the Ocean affianced to the Gulph, which washes Arabia on the South, but now to our relation of Rome.
The first and cheif part whereof to be visited through devotion, are the 7. principal Churches, and then the others in their order: wherein are preserved infinite reliques of Saints, and some remarkable Ones of the holy Jesus our Lord and Saviour as the the Towel [Page 146] of Santa Veronica with the effigies of Christ, the Speer of Longinus wherewith he was run into the Breast. One of those Nayls, wherewith our Lord was nayled to the Cross. One of those thirty pence, which as the price of Treason were given to Iudas the Traitor by the wicked Jews, all which you are obliged particularly to search out as exceeding singularities not elsewhere to be found.
Of ROME the Old, and ROME the New, and of its admirable Excellencies.
ROME formerly the Empress of the World cannot be enough praised: Her power was so great, her Riches so immense, her subjects so innumerable, her Territories and Dominions so vast: That well might Saint Hierome (in his three wishes for intermixing that concerning her with so divine things) be pardonable, which three wishes were, To have seen our Saviour in the flesh, to have heard Saint Paul preach, and to have seen Rome in her Glory: which had so spread her self over the whole Earth that a perfect Idea of her cannot be comprehended, and must needs have been the happiest sight that mortal eye could attain to. But when considered what she was, and how since devoured by fire by the insatiable Nero, and how pillaged sacked and thousands of mischiefs done her by the Barbarous, at the decay of the Roman Empire; One may well wonder how the new Rome, should be even emulous to exceed the Old: Being at this day the Queen of Cities, the Flower of Italy, and as one may say an Epitome of the whole Earth. She is the Lodging for all Nations. The theatre of the best Ingenuities of the World, the Habitation of vertue, of Empire, of dignity, of Fortune, The Native Countrey of the Laws, and of all People derivatively, the Fountain of Instruction, the Head of Religion, the Rule of Justice, and finally the Original of infinite blessings, although the Hereticks, Enemies of the truth, will not confess it, as this Author is pleased to term those of the Reformed Religion.
A Better nor more concise description of the glory and destruction of Rome the Old cannot be given than is in these two Verses out of an elegant Poet an English Man. Stapylton
The same Poet likewise with noe less elegancy describes the Grandeur and Eminency of Rome the New, under the Popes in these two ensuing Verses.
[Page 147] Rome is scituate in a Countrey sterile enough, and is subject to the Sea, the Winds, and an obscure thick Ayr.
The Circumference of Rome, when in her greatest splendour was fifty miles, but now (though not much inferiour comparing her Ecclesiasticks and her immediate possessions with her former Empire) she exceeds not thirteen miles in circuit: In those days she had twenty eight spatious principal Streets, which yet may be traced out and their names with great certainty set down, to wit.
- Appia.
- Tiberina.
- Proenestina.
- Quintia.
- Flaminia.
- Tiburtina.
- Cornelia.
- Collatina.
- Solaria.
- Aurelia.
- Latina.
- Nomentana.
- Cimina.
- Valeria.
- Pormense.
- Laurentia.
- Claudia.
- Gallicana.
- Emilia.
- Labicana.
- Campana.
- Setina.
- Ostiense.
- Pretoriana.
- Ardeatina.
- Cassia.
- Ianiculense.
- Trionfale.
With these were others of name, that is to say L'alta Sommita, upon the Monte Cavallo, now called Quirinale, near the Campo Martio, Via Lata, La Suburra near San Pietro in Vincula. La Nova by the Bathes of Antonius, La Trionfale near the Porta Vaticana, La Vitellia contiguous with San Pietro in Montorio. that is at the Gianiculo, La Deta in the Campo Martio, La Fornicata near to the Flaminia.
The Antient and Famous Gates of ROME are 15.
LA Flaminia, called now Porta del Popolo, the Gate of the People, La Gabiosa, now di san Methodio. La Collatina, now Princiana, La Ferentina, now Latina; La Quirinale, now called Agonia, La Capena, now di san Paolo, or Ostiense, La Tiburtin [...], now shut up. La Portuense, now Porta Ripa L'Esquilina now di san Lorenza, L'Aurelia, now di san Paneratio. La Nevia, now Porta Maggiore, La Fontinale, now Settimiana, La Celimontana, now di Sti Giovanni, La Vaticana, which lyes on the shore of the River Tevere. Tyber.
Moreover the Burroughs have these ensuing Gates, which were latelier made than those above named; to wit, Porte di Castello, de Cavalli Leggieri, l'Angelica, la Pertusa, & di san Spirito, now the Triumfale, by which the Countrey Men were not permitted to enter.
The Hills comprehended within the Walls of Rome are ten viz.
Il Capitolino, or Tarpeio, upon which were standing in the time of Tarquin more than Sixty Temples, between great and small with most high Towers, twas compassed with a Wall, and then called the dwelling of the Gods.
[Page 148] Il Palatino, or Pallazzo Maggiore, all hollowed undernea [...]h; This at present is filled with gardens and the ruines of old structures, where stood formerly many noble Fabricks, as the Pallace of the Emperors, the great house of Augustus, of Cicero, of Hortensi [...], and of Cataline, but now in lieu thereof is the stately and spatious Garden of the Farnezes.
L'Aventino now called Santa Sabina, upon which was the first dwelling of the Christian Popes.
Il Celio, which rise where now stands the Church Laterinense, and Santa Croce, of Ierusalem, in the place of many signal Temples of the Gentiles, and fair Aqueducts.
L'Esquelino, where stands now Saint Pietro in Vincola: in the stead of the houses of Virgil, of Propertius, and the gardens of of Mecenas.
Il Viminale, where stands now in lieu of the old House of Crassus, The Churches of Santa Prudentia, and of San Lorenzo in Palesperna.
Il Quirinale, now called Monte Cavallo, where antiently flourished the Palace and Gardens of Salustius and the Houses of Catullus and Aquilius.
Which said seven Hills were those antient Hills in Rome, whence she was denominated Settigemina. Afterwards upon divers occasions these following were added.
Il Colle de gli hortuli, or Pincio, called vulgarly di Santa Trinità upon which formerly stood a Temple of the Sun: where now is that round Fabrick, and deep well.
Il Vaticano, where now stands the Church of Saint Pietro and the Pallace of the Pope.
Il Gianicolo, called Montorio, where the Churches of San Onofrio, and Saint Pietro di Montorio now stand.
Il Testaceo, which is no other than great heaps of broken pieces of potters Vessels, the Street and residence of those Handicrafts Men being there, they cast those broken pieces which were of no use, into that place which raised this Hill, which Hill or heap rather of broken Vessels is near the Porta Ostiense, and near it the famous Sepulcher of Cicero.
CHURCHES.
IN ROME are above 300. Churches all much frequented, but of them, seaven are more particularly visited through devotion: To wit, San Pietro nel Vaticano, San Paolo in the Via Ostiense, S. Maria maggiore in the Via Esquilina, San Sebastiano without the Gate Capena or S. Sebastiano, San Giovanni Lateranense in Monte Celio, Santa Croce, in Hierusalem, in Monte Celio, San Lorenzo without the Porta Esquilina, called San Lorenzo vulgarly.
These five following Churches are beautifyed with noble Brass Gates San Pietro nel Vaticano, Santa Maria Rotonda, Santo Adriano antiently the Temple of Saturn, Sauti Cosma, and Damiane (formerly the Temple of Castor and Pollux, and San Paolo in the Via Ostiense.
In Rome are five principle Church yards or Burying places the first of which lies near Saint Agnese, the second near Saint Pancratio, the third by Saint Sebastiano, the fourth by San Lorenzo, the fifth by [Page 147] San Priscella, besides which and many other smaller burying places of such primitive Christians as were marty red or dyed (to this day held in great Veneration) there are above twenty even now without the City.
In it are many Hospitals so well provided that possibly they may be reckoned the most worthy object of the modern Excellencies in Rome, whereof some are Common for all Nations and all persons as L'Hospitale di San Spirito in the Vati [...]n: San Gioanni, Laterano, in Monte Celio, San Gi [...]como di Augusta, in Valle Martia, Santa Maria dell [...], Consolatione in Velabro, and Santo Antonio, in Fsqui [...]ino, into any of which the infirm of all Countreys with great love and diligence are received governed and taken care of for their perfect ease and cure of their diseases.
The Hospitals deputed to particular Nations are these. The Hospital of Santa Maria dell'Annima, for the Germans and Flemings, San Lodovico for the French: San Giacomo for the Spaniards: San Tomaso for the English: San Pietro for the Hungarians, Santa Brigida for the Swedes San Giovanni, and San Andrea, for the Dutch, San Giovanni Battista for the Florentines, San Giovanni Battista near the Banks of the Tyber, for the Gen [...]veses, instituted [...]nd endowed by Media dusto Cicala, besides many houses both for poor and Orfanes, of which no particular Catalogue is set down, least filling the volume with the less conside rable, we leave not space for the more observable things in Rome.
In the Popes Palace called the Vatican are the Libraries: The one contains selected choice books alwaies shut up. The other two filled with Latin and Greek Books, written by the Pen in parchment, are as much open: and free to any students for two hours in the day, which were furnished by Pope Nicholas the 5th. And now there is a new one collected by Pope Sistus the 5th. The Inscriptions, Pictures and Verses of which were made publique by the judicious Pen of Angelo Rocca, Bishop of Tagasta.
Some other Libraries in Rome are worthy notice, to wit, that of Santa Maria del Popolo. Of Santa Maria soprala Minerva. Of Santo: Agostino, of Vallicola, of Saint Andrea, and of the Jesuists Colledge: besides three others which at the siege and sacking of Rome: were robbed or burnt.
The Popes Gardens, where Persons of Quality have free ingress together with the houses and Gardens of the Cardinals and other noble Persons of Rome yeeld ample solace aud recreation to the Lovers of Antiquity by their great varieties in those particulars.
These Pallaces omitting many others deserve a serious and timely visit, to wit, that of the Family of the Conservadori nel Campi doglio, of the Massini, of the Busali, of the Rucellai; of the Furnesi, of the Colonne the Mattei, Cevoli, and Borghesi, together with the Pallace Latterenense royally repaired by Pope Sistus the 5th.
The City Rome was antiently divided into nineteen Praecincts or Wards, whereof at present remain but these 14. de Monti, della Colanna; del Ponte; del Arenula, della Rogola, della Pigna, del Capitello di Transtevere di. . . . . del Campo Martio, di Sant Eustachio, di Sant Angelo, della Ripa, del Borgo.
The six stones Bridges built over the Tevere or Tyber, are these Ponte Molle or Milvio, two miles distant from the City, without the Porta [Page 150] del [...]. Ponte Angelo or Elio antiently. Ponte Gianiculese built by Pope Sistus. Ponte Saint Bartolemeo or Costio. Ponte Maria Egittiaca, or Palatino, and Ponte dei quatro Capi formerly called Fabritio when also there was one more called Sublicio, whose Pyles are yet to be seen near the Aventine hills: and another called Triumfale whose pyles appear at San Spirito.
The Waters wherewith the City is supplyed are these: L'acqua virgine which runs through the Campo Martio, the work of Pope Nicholas the 5th. l'Alsietina restored by Innocent the 8th. for the Vatican La Salonia canducted at the cost of Pius the 4th. besides which many others waters were conveyed by Gregory the 13th. by others in antient times.
The Piazzaes in Rome are many but those of most note at this day are La Piazza Vaticana, La Navona, La Giudea and La Fiore.
The new Porticues, or open Galleries which are the chief, are three, viz: That della Benedittione: That in the Vatican Palace fronting the Piazza and the Cerridore towards Belvedere.
The Piazza or market place for Fish, stands now where in former time it was.
That for the Hoggs, Oxen, Cows, Sheep, &c. where antiently was the Foro Romano.
The Bakers have four Piazzaes, and conjoyned with them are the Shambles: in the Piazza Nova [...]a, every Wednesday is held a great Market.
The Hills are very little inhabited the ruines of old structure rendring the Ayr so unwholsome, as to be only fit for Gardens or Vineyards, not dwelling Houses.
Pope Sistus the 5th caused many fair streets to be drawn by a Line.
The residing Palace of the Pope stands contiguous with the Church of Saint Pietro, wherein are contained many stupendious things, as the Chapel of Pope Sistus, the Paulina, replenisht with the excellent pictures of Michael Angelo, Bonarota a Florentine, so compleat perfect and exact, that twere the glory of this age to find a modern Painter could approach then in art or Similitude. Besides which his Holiness hath Retreats for the Summer as one near, San Marco, another near Santa Maria Maggiore, a third near the Fontana de Trevi, but the most favoured and therefore most ordinary retirement is Monte Cavallo, heretofore called Quirinale.
The Palaces of the Cardinals are disperst up and down the City as aforesaid. The houses of the Citizens are not despicable, either in Structure, Antiquities, Pictures and other noble Houshouldstuff, or Fountains. The Castle Saint Angelo, or Mole d'Adriano, is a fair & strong Cittadel, alwaies furnished with all warlike provisions, Herein they solem [...]ize great Feasts and Holy dayes three times in the yeer: with the discharging of all the great Guns, and Fireworks: To wit on the Festival day of San Pietro & Paolo, the second is celebrated annually on the day whereon the immediate Pope is selected to the Pontifical Chair, the third on the day the said immediat Pope is crowned: The Guard of which Castle is committed to some Person of Quality: who is understood to have compleated his Charge and Government at 7 yeers end: and is then comonly rewarded with a Cardinals [...]ap, or some thousands of Crowns.
[Page 151]The Aqueducts of the old Romans with their conserves for waters were many: but that of Acqua Claûdia, was composed with so much Art, and at so vast expence, that but only to repair and restore it to its antient form cost five hundred and sixty Talents besides which there was, l'acqua Martia, Aless andrina, Giulia, Augusta, Sabbatina, Appia, Traiana, Tepula, Alsietina, di Mercurio, della, Virgine, del'Aniene the old, and Antoniane the new, and others: together with infinite Baths, as le Anliane; le Variane, le Titiane, le Gordiane, le Novatiane, le Agrippine, le Alexandrine, le Manliane, le Dioclesiane, le Deciane, & those Bathes appropriate to Trajan, Philip Adrian, Nero, Severus, Constantine, Farnus, Domitian and Probus with many others.
The Piazzaes also in those days were divers, a Sla Romana, that of the Pistory. of Caesar, of Nerva, of Trajan, of Augustus, of Salustus, of Dioclesian, of Enobarbus, and the Esquilina, wi [...]h those particularly used for Herbs, Beasts, Fish, Sheep, Hoggs, Bakers, for the Countrey market people, and the Transitoria.
The Triumphal Arches which are most famous follow, of Romulus, of Claudius, of Titus Vespasian, of Constantine, of Lucius, Settimius Severus, of Domitian, of Trajan, of Fabianus, of Gordianus, of Galienus, of Tiberius, Theodosius and Camillus.
The Amphitheatres named were these, that of Stafilius Taurus, of Claudius, and that of Titus Vespasian, which was capacious, enough for one hundred and fifty thousand persons. The Theatres these, that of Scaurus, Pompejus, Marcellus, Balbus, and Caligula.
The Circi or Show places in Rome were Il Massimo, l'Agonio, Il Flaminio, that of Nero, and that of Alexandre.
The memorable Porticues or open Galleries Denomminations, ensue, Il Pompeio, Il Corinthio, della Concordia, della Libertà, di Augusto, di Severo, di Panteo, di Metello, di Constantino, di Q Catullo, del Foro, di Augusto, di Trajano, di Livia, del circo Massino, di Nettuno, di Quirino, di Mercurio, di Venere Cricina, di Ottavio, Iulia, and that called Tribunale Aurelio.
The famous Collumnes were, Lo Rostrata, la Lattaria, la Bellica, la Menia, those of Trajan, of Caesar, of Antonius pius, and those in the Porticue of Concordia.
The Piramides these, one in the Circo maximo, one in the Campo Martio, one in the Mauseolo or rich Tombe of Augustus, one of the Sun of the Araceli, of the Moon, of the holy Trinity, of the Vatican, of Saint Petre, and of San Mauro, which flankes the Roman Colledge.
In Rome were three Colossus, one of Nero, another of Apollo, a third of Mars and two other Pyramides one of C Celtius, another of Scipio.
Also some places called Naumachie, appointed for Naval Fights, as large as the Circus Maximus, and were called of Domitian, Nero, and Caesar. The proud Fabricks named Settezonii were two, the one of Severus, which Pope Sextus the 5th. caused to be overwhelmed, the other of Titus.
Some Horses were erected composed of several Materials, as of Marcus Aurelius, of Antoninus, in the Campidoglio of Domitianus, of L. Verus, Trajanus, Caesar. Constantinus, of Fidia, and of Prasitelle, in the Quirinale, or Monte Cavallo.
The Names of such as have writ of the Famous things in ROME.
THese following Authors have wrote of the City ROME. P. Vittore wrote of the Parts of the City; Aristides sofista in Greek an Oration in praise of Rome; but the more modern are Giusto Lipsio, Lucio Fauno, Bartolameo Marliano, lately set forth with Prints Lodovico Demonciosi, in a Book intitled Gallus hospes de Urbe, printed at Rome: Poggio a Florentine, Fabriccio Varriano, Flavio Biondo, Rafael Volaterrano, Francesco, Albertini, Rucellai, Sorlio, Giacomo Boissardo, Mauro Andrea Fulvio, Rosino, Panuino, Vuolfango Lazio.
Of the modern state and greatness of Rome under the Pop [...]s Flavio, Biondo Thomaso Bosio Eugubino, and Thomaso Stapletono an English Man, have at large discoursed.
Of the seven Churches of Rome, Onofrio Panuino, (who wrote also of the burying places) M. Attilio Serrano, and Pompeio Augonio the Roman Library keeper in the vulgar Tongue, and of the other Churches Lorenzo Schradero Sassone in the second Book of his Memorials of Italy.
Of the times and impresses of the Consuls and Emperors, Cassiodor [...] a Roman Senator, Marcellino, Vettor Tanunense, Gioanni Cuspiniano, Carlo Sigonio Onofrio Panuino, Stefano Pighio, whose History is beautified with figures, and Uberto Golizio, who did the same with the Meddals.
Passing by the Antient Greek and Latine Authors. These ensuing have wrote the Histories of the Roman Emperours, viz. Plutark, Dion, Herodian, Iulianus Caesar, Ammianus, Lampridius, Spartianus, Aurelius, Victorius, with others who have been often reprinted. Also the Images of those Emperours were treated of and published by Uberto, Glotzio, Hiperbolita, Giacomo, Strada Mantoano, Sebastiano, Or [...]zo, and others, moreover the Images of the said Emperours and their wives were stamped in Copper by Levino Hulsio Gandavese in Spire. Furthermore the Lives of the Emperours were set forth in Verse by Ausonio Borgidolense, Gia, Micillo, and Orsino Velio.
Of the Columnes of Rome, Pietro Giacone Alfonso Chianone and Pietro Gallesino, the one of the Rostrata, or Pulpit bedecked with beaks of Ships, in the Campidoglio, the second of that of Trajan, the third of that of Antoninus.
Of the Acqueducts and Waters entring Rome, Sesto Iulio Frontino, Aldus Manutius, and Giovanni Servilio of the Acqua Virgine wrote Duca the Roman Legist: Of the increase and Augmentation of the Tyber Lodovico Gomesio and Giacomo Castiglione.
Of the Magistrates of Rome, Pamponeo Leto, Andrea Dominico Flano whose works are erroneoufly attributed to Fenestela Carlo Sigonio Giovanni Bofino in his seventh Book of the Roman Antiquities, and Giach [...]mo Perionio of the Provinces Marian Scoto, and Guido Pancirolo.
Of the Senate, Aulo Gellio, Giovanni Zamosio, Great Chansellor of Polonia, and Paul Manutius.
[Page 153]Of the Comitia, or Assemblies of the People for electing Officers, Nicolo Grucchio, Carlo Sigonio, and Giovanni Rosino in his 6th Book of the Roman Antiquities.
Of the Judges, Valerius Maximus, in his 7th. Book and Giovanni Rosino in his 7th. Book of the Antiquities of Rome.
Of the High Priests. Andrea Dominico Flacco, Pomponeo Leto, and Rosino aforenamed.
Of the times of their Festivals, and of their Games, Ovidius Naso, Lidius Geraldus, Rosinus and Iosephus Scaliger in his Book, De Temporum emendatione.
Of the Triclinia, or Supping Parlours, or their Banquets and manner of sitting at Table, Pietro Chiacon Toletano, Fulvio Orsino a Roman: Ramusio, De quaesitis per Epistolam, and Andrea Baccio, De vini Natura.
Of the sharp pointed Steeple erected by Sixtus the 5th. Pietro Angelo Barba, Pietro Galesino, Michel Mercator, and Giovanni Servilio.
Of the Theatre, and Amphitheatres Iustus Lipsius, and Giovanni Servilio, in his first Book of the wonderfull works of the Antient.
Of the Roman Militia, Polibius, Iustus Lipsius, Giovanni Antonio Valerin [...], Giovanni Servilio in 30. lib. De mirandis Carlo sigonio, and Giovanni Rosino.
Of the Provinces Sextus Rufus in his Breviary; and Carlo Sigonius, of the Colonies Sextus Iulius Frontinus, Onofrio Panuino, and Carlo Sigonio.
Of the Ciphers or Figures of the Antient, Valerius Probus the Author of that tenth Book added to Valerius Maximus of the Roman surnames, whereof also Sigonius hath writ, Panuinus and others.
Of the antiquity of the Edifices, and the ruines of Rome, Carolus Sigonius in his Book De antiquo Iure Civium Romanorum. Paul [...]s Minutius, who wrote also of the Laws of Rome, as did Antonius Agostinus aud others.
The Figures of Romes Antiquities were stamped in Brass by Antonio Salamanca and others. The Tablets in brass likewise by Onofrio Panuino and others: The Statues in Rome, were published by Giovanni Giacomo Boissardo and others. The Images of the illustrious Persons were taken from the Marble figures and printed by Achille Statio, a Portuguese, and Theodore Galleo, by whom also were set forth the lively Visages of the modern illustrious Italians, as also of the nine learned Greeks, who being taken at Constantinople, first brought the Greek letters into Italy and afterwards conveyed the same into Gallia aud those parts beyond the Alpes.
The old Inscriptions on Marble and other stones in Rome and elsewhere, were divulged by Pietro Appiano, Maritino Smetio, Fulvio Orsino and divers others. The Epitaphs on Christians Tombs are collected by Lorenzo Scradero a Saxon, and by Chitreus in his Book of delight in travails.
Of the Roman wonders Ubertus Glothzius hath wrote an ample Book, which also comprehends the Inscriptions and meddals of Apulia, and Sicilia, Sebastiano Erizzo and others.
The Lives of the Roman Chief Bishops and Popes were made publick by Bartholomeo, Platina Papiro. Maxone and others: whom we [Page 154] must not read without great circumspection Panuino hath likewise presented to common view all their Images taken by the life.
Of the Cardinals, their times, and appurtenances, Onofrius Panuinus Alfonso Chiaccone a Spaniard and others have wrote, and Theodorus Gallus in Anvers, engraved the Images and Elogies of twelve Cardinals.
Of the seaven Churches of ROME, which are most visited, and more richly fraught with Indulgencies and Priviledges than the Rest.
THE Moddel of the Temples of Rome vary according to the different times and humours of Men; sometimes building them Round, without Collumnes, without traversing, and without Casements, leaving in the Covering an open hole or Cupola for the light to enter in at. Of this sort is the Rotonda of Rome, a Church worthy consideration for the Architecture. Which some times our Ancestors made in an Orbicular forme, but with rowes of Pillars diversly placed, as is San Stefano, in Monte Celio, heretofore the Temple of Iuno, and that of Costanza or Constantina in the Via nomentina, without the Porta Viminale, which tis thought was antiently the Temple of Ba [...]chus. Sometimes they used to build their Temples Square, with one or two Bankes or Pillars, as now appear S. Giovanni Lateranense in Monte Celiv, San Paolo in the Via Ostiense, Sant Agnese without the Walls. And other times they formed them by entressing or joyning the Pillars together at Top, near to which just under the Roof they fixed their little Casements, wch. were more or less according to the proportion of the Structure: of which Sort are many in Rome, with stately Frontispieces, some of them being adorned with Columns of pretious and divers coloured Marble, and many others whose Pavement are wrought in figures with little pieces of Marble alla Moisaca.
The First of the Seaven principal Churches of ROME called Santa Crose, in HIERUSALEM.
THis Church is the first and chief in devotion, seated in Monte Celio, nobly built by Helena Mother of the Emperour Constantine the Great: In it are 20. Collumnes, and two fair tombs of black, red, and white Marble: the covering of the High Altar is sustained by 4 Marble Pillars. One inscription there to be read, shewes that the ground or earth (the Foundation or Floor thereof) is the true [Page 155] holy Earth brought from Ierusalem. Tis believed this was the Asylum or Sanctuary in the life time of Romulus, and that Tullius Hostilius afterwards enlarged the City to the said Asylum. Tis observable that in the same place, where Impunity for evil works was afforded to Malefactors under the first Founders of Rome; under the ChristiReligion, Our Lord God is pleased to grant remission of our Sins.
In this Church is the Tombe of Pope Benedict the 7th. with an Epitaph in verse: and of Francesco Quigone a famous Sculptor. More of this Church will be spoken in the second dayes Journey.
The Second Church of the Sainto, FABIANO and SEBASTIANO.
THis Church stands in the Via Appia, built with plain work in a long form, the pavement Marble, contiguous with a fair Monastery now deserted. Herein were at first reposed the Bodies of St. Peter, and St. Paul. The High Altar is sustained with four Marble Pillars, and is raised with Stone, as are most Altars in Rome. Under an Iron grate, lyes the Body of St. Stephen the Pope a Martyr, and of 46. other blessed Popes, with the Reliques of above 74 thousand Martyrs And for that this Church is so far distant. The Pope grants that instead of visiting it in the extream hot weather, The People should repair to Santa Maria del Popolo for their Indulgencies. Of this Church more will be said in the voyage of the second day to the Via App [...]a. And of Santa Maria del Popolo, in the Catalogue of Churches.
The third Church named San GIOVANNI del LATERANO.
THis may be called the Chief amongst the seaven principal Churches, having been formerly the Abode of the Popes in Monte Celio, and Sixtus the 5th. though in vain, reedified that Pontifical Palace even from the very foundations, wherein was frequently celebrated the famous synod called Synodo Lateranenze in Rome. The Roman Emperours used to receive the golden Crown in this Church. Its pavement is wrought with lovely Marble, and Its Roof richly carved and guilt. It hath many Reliques of Saints, as the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul, the Vest of St. Stephen bloudy and corne by those Stones cast at him, and divers other things worthy veneration: Of which the Bulls of Pope Sixtus quartus, and of Pope Gregory cutt in Marble, affirm the Veritie. This Church was repaired in many places by Nicholas the 4th. in the yeer 1291, the testimony whereof yet remains in the Front. Tis reported, That its Collumnes were transported by Vespatian from Ierusalem to Rome. [Page 156] This is one of the five Patriarchal Churches.
The Baptistary is conjoyned to the said Church, wherein Constantine the Emperour was baptized by the Pope St. Sylvester. Into one of the Chappels whereof dedicated to St. Iohn Baptist, no Woman is permitted to enter under pain of Excomunication, in memorial that One Woman was cause of the death of St. Iohn Baptist, who first published Baptism. The Collumnes of Porphyr therein standing, being rubbed with ones hand, smell as sweet as any Violet, they were brought from Pilates House, together with one of its Gates, and the Collumne whereon the Cock stood, who by his thrice crowing put St. Peter in mind of the words of our Saviour. In Saint Iohn they preserved the Ark of the old Testament, the Rod of Aaron, the Ladder brought from the Palace of Pilate, whereto Christ was bound when whipt with rods, the drops of whose blood yet appear on it. The stone whereon the Iews cast lots, with other notable things, particularly treated on by the Authors aforenamed. These things are publickly shewed to Pilgrims. the Epitaphs of Pope Sylvester the second, and of Antonio Cardinale Porthogese, are legible in verse, as also of Lorenzo Valle, a Canon of this Church who deceased 50 yeers old in Anno. 1465. In whose commendation this Elogy was sett up▪
Here is the Porta Santa, which at the beginning of the yeer of Jubilee the Popes use to set open. In the Voyage of the second day other things will be mentioned of this Church.
The third Church named SAN LORENZO without the PORTA ESQUILINA.
THis large Church is sustained by 36 Marble Pillars, and connexed with it is the Monastery of the Canon Regulars of St. Austin, which is called di san Salvadore. Here is one of those places under ground (as St. Sebastiano) wherein are layed many of the bones of Martyrs brought from the Cemeterio Ciriaco, and here are the Reliques of San Lorenzo, among which is the stone, whereon that blessed St. being taken off the Gridiron was placed, and expired, which stone is covered with an Iron Grate. On the left side of the high Altar, stands the Tombe of Eustachius Nephew of Pope Innocent the 4th whereon are carved some fair statues, as 'twere actually endeavouring to bring a Lambe to the Sacrifice. This was one of the five Patriarchal Churches, and will be farther spoken of in the Voyage of the second day:
The Fifth of the principal Churches called SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE nel MONTE ESQUILINO.
THis in respect of the other Churches is small but polite, 312. foot long, and 112. broad, Its pavement is wrought with Figures in Mosaick work, and the Roof guilt. In it is one Altar of Porphyr, and a Tomb of Porphyr wherein lies Giovanni Patricio, who built this Church. In a Vault under ground is kept the Crib or Manger wherein our Saviour was layed at his Birth, often visited, with Mas [...]es and Prayers, for which end Sixtus quintus, there built a glorious Chappel, deputing to it Clerkes, who ought there continually to attend for divine Worship.
Here are engraven the works of Pope Pius the 5th. for the service & propagation of the Christian Religion, in perpetual remembrance of so good a Pastor: whose Body he ordered also should be put in [...]n honourable Tombe on the one side, and his own to be placed on the other side, when it should please the Lord to call him to himself. On the right side of the high Altar lies the body of Pope Nicholas the 4th. near whose Tomb stands an Image of the blessed Virgin painted by Saint Luke. Here also is the Sepulchre of San Girolame. And here ly buried Alberto and Giovanni Normando. Platina who wrote compleatly the lives of the Popes. Lucco Gaurico a famous Mathematician and Bishop of Cività. Francesco Toledo a Jesuit [...] Zforseschi da Santa Fiora and i Cesis, three Cardinals. Upon the Pillars are some antient Pictures of such as undertook the Argument for the Catholick Faith against the Hereticks (who condemned images) when that point was disputed in the Councel. Before this Church Sixtus Quintus reared an Obelisk, which is the least of the four in Rome, and is without Hieroglyp [...]ick notes, as that before Saint Giovanni Laterano hath. On the back part of this Church is erected a Marble Collumn, not so great as neat, in memory of the Absolution which Henry fourth King of France and Navarre, obtayned from Clement the eighth in Ann. 1593. This was one of the five Patriarchall Churches, and will be further treated of in the third dayes Journey.
The Sixth of the Principal Churches, called SAN PAOLO NELLA VIA OSTIENSE.
THis is the fairest and biggest Church of Rome being 120 paces long and 85 broad built by Constantine the great, & sustained (as may be said) by a Grove of stately Pillars.
Tis paved with Marble. Many Inscriptions are there placed and published by orhers. One most remarkable is this. P. P. P. R. R. R. S. S. S. F. F. F.
The Venerable Bede being at that time most learned was consulted and desired to resolve the signification of those Letters, which he thus explained.
The High Altar is supported by four Porphyr Pillars exposeing to publique view the Image on the Crucifix, which spake to St. Brigide while she prayed: as the Inscription declares, and the Bull verifies. Here also are stupendiously expressed in Mosaick work, the Imagea of Christ, of Saint Peter, Saint Paul, and Saint Andrew, so lively that words seem to issue out of their mouths, together with all the Instruments of the Passion and death of our Saviour. This Church was nobly restored and beautified by Clement the 8th. an excellent Pope: In the Brasen gates, are figured divers holy histories Greek and Latin; From the inscriptions tis gathered, that these gates were placed there, by Pantaleon, Consul in the time of Alexander the 4th. This was one of the five Patriarchal Churches. In it are the Sepultures of some Popes, as of Giovanni who dyed in anno 1472. and Pietro Leone and the memorials of Iulius the third Gregory the 13th. and Clement the 8th. who opened the Porta Santae, in the yeer of Jubile. This Church is at present governed by the Fryers of the Order of St. Benedict. Here is the Chappel of St. Paul in good part restored by Alexandro Farnese, a Cardinal in anno 1582. In the Vestry are many Reliques of Saints, the Collumnes whereon St. Paul was decapitated, and a stone wch. they usually fastened to the Feet of the Martyrs for their greater torment. In the Chapel of Porta Celi, are the reliques of 2203 Persons martyred by Nero. whence at a small distance is the Tre Fontane, or three Fountains, the place of Saint Pauls Martyrdome (fully restored and beautifyed by Clement the 8th.) whose head being cut off, took three leaps, and at each Leap, a spring arose and still runs with clear waters.
The Seaventh of the Principal Churches of ROME, called S. PIETRO in VATICANO.
FOR Beauty, sumptuousness, Artifice, and Worth; not only Rome but the whole world yeelds this meritoriously a precedency to all other Churches, especially in that part built in later times, to which Sixtus the 5th. added a noble Cupolo, wherein are figured the Celestial Hierarchy in pieces of Mosaick, that the beholders believe them painted. And Gregory the 13th. as glorious a Chappel in honour of Saint Gregorie Nazianzene, wherein he was buried. Without doubt it is the most perfect model of decent Magnificence in the World, there being an answerable uniformity within and without. And may justly be compared (if not said to surpass) the Temple of Diana in Ephesus, formerly accounted one of the seaven wonders of the world: burnt by Herostratus who by that horrid Act sought rather to perpetuate his name than to ly unremembred in his Grave. The Old Church had 24 collumnes of so various coloured Marble, as are not matchable, which were taken from the adjacent Sepulchre of Adrian the Emperour, who was most exquisite in all his works. Those other Pillars in the Chappel of the holy Sacrament and those that support the Volto Santo, that is the Towel of Veronica, with some others, were transported from Ierusalem into Italy by Titus Vespasianus and taken out of the Temple and Palace of Solomon, after that the Iews were wholly overcome and their said City destroyed. The top is all of squares, Levati as they call it, like the Pantheon, in the Center of the Church stands the great Altar, all of solid Brass, in such stupendious pillars that each weighs 25000. pound and is of so incomparable workemanship that no Cathedral but St. Peters is fit to entertain it. Herein is the Sepulchre of the Emperour Otho the second, buried in anno 1486. in porphirie: A greater porphyre stone then this Italy affords nor, except that of Santa Maria Rotonda the Sepulture of Theodorick King of the Ostrogothes. This was one of the five Patriarchal Churches, and the old part was built by the Emperour Constantine the great, who caused it be sustained by Pillars: But Pope Iulius the second [...]n anno 1507 was the Founder of the new part, himself laying the first stone of the foundation with his own hands in the presence of thirty five Cardinals, Bramante, of Urbin, was the Inventor of the Model, which Michael Angelo, Bonarota the Florentine, afterwards added to and corrected.
Antonio Fiorentino, by order of Eugenius the 4th. made the gate of Brass, with the figures of Christ, the blessed Virgine, of Saint Peter, and St Paul. In the holy week every yeer they shew here the Visage of Christ, called Volto Santo, impressed on the Towel of Veronica. There is one Figure of the Virgine Mary holding Christ dead in her lap the work of Michael Angelo, whose also is that most excellent [Page 160] Picture of universal Judgment, placed in the Popes Chappel. On the Eastern part of the Church hangs the Pinnace of St. Peter, in Mosaick work by Giotto Fiorentino. In the Chorus stands the Tombe of Pope Sixtus the fourth, all of Brass, and on the top lies his Figure represented sleeping, with Vertue on both sides, and round it the Sciences, that is Theologie, Philosophy, and the liberal arts with his Inscription, The work of Antonius Palladius, in anno 1482. Herein also besides those of the first Martyrs Lyno, Cleto and others, are the graves and Tombs of many Popes to wit, of Innocent the 8th. in Brass. of Pius the 2d. a Siennois & Pius the 3 Son of a Sister of Pius the 2 Of Marcellus the 2 who lived in the Pontificacy but 22. dayes. Iulius the third, all without Inscriptions. These following have all Epitaphs in verse: As Nicolas the 5th. Eugenius the 4th. Urban the 6th. Adrian the 1st. Gregory the 4th. and 5th. Boniface the 8th. Paul the 3d. whose Brass Tomb stands in the new part. Innocent the 4th. Urban the 7th. Gregory the 13th. and 14th. and also Balbo the most learned in the Greek, and Cardinal dalla Porta.
Who desires more ample satisfaction in the particulars of the 7 principal Churches of Rome, shall find it in the diligent writings of Onofrius Panuinus, and Attilius Serranus, in the Latin tongue, and of Pompeio Ugonio in the Italian. Let this compendious description, content the curious in this study here, who for more light are referred to the Authors above named. Now lets pass to the other Churches and memorable places.
A Catalogue of the Churches of ROMF, set down Alphabetically with the Epitaphs most worthy noting therein extant.
SAnto Adriano in tribus Foris, was a Temple first dedicated to Saturn A in foro Romano, then to Nerva the Emperour, and lastly to St. Adrian when Cardinal Gio Bellaio, repaired it.
Santo Agapeto near San Lorenzo.
Santa Agata a Church of the Gothes under t [...] Viminale. Here stand the Figures of Diana and of Peace, to whom tis believed twas dedicated. Before the Gate are figured certain Children with the pretexta on, which was a Gown edged about with purple silk, that the Noble mens Children of Rome wore till of the age of seaven yeers, who sit on seats as if at School.
In it likewise is the Tomb of Giovanni Lascaro with two Greek Epitaphs.
Santa Agnese, in the Borgo de Parione, or the Vianomentana, a Church built with stately stones, beautifyed with 26 marble Collumnes and a descent of 32 steps. Near it stood formerly a Monastery now fallen [Page 161] to the ground, first deserted for the intemperate Ayr. In it was layed the body of St. Agnese anno 114 [...]. Its Porticue was built by Cardinal Iulius Nephew of Sixtus the 4th. N [...]r this stands a Church dedicated by Alexander the 4th. S. Costanza Daughter of Constantine the Emperour: Which was formerly dedicated to Bacchus, as is collected from a Porphyr Tomb yet remaining there, upon which are carved certain Children treading of grapes. Its form is round; It hath 24 Marble Pillars, and is politely wrought alla Mosaica.
Sant' Alberto nell'Esquillie.
Sant' Alessio nell'Aventino, formerly the Temple of Hercules a Conquerour. In this Church is preserved the pair of Staier [...], under which in his Fathers house. that Saint lived unknown for some time [...]n it likewise Vicenza Cardinal Gonzaga lies buried.
Sant' Ambrosio, of Masina in Rome or the high street of Sant' Angelo, and another of the same in Campo Martio.
Sant' Anastasia at the foot of Mount Palatine, in the Street Harenu la: This was a Temple of Equestrian Neptune, whom they also styled Conscio, for that they believed him a God knowing of secrets.
Santo Anastasio, in the street A [...]deatine, near to Tre Fontana the three Fountains.
Santo Andrea della colonna, in the street Trevio de Ania near the Palace of the Savelli. Dalla Tavenula between the hills Celio, and Esquilino Delle Fratte dalle Barche, on the Banks of the Tyber. De gli Orsi, in the Harenula. In Montucna, at the foot of the Capitolino. In Nazareno in the Harenula. In Paliura in the Palatino. In Portogallo. In Statera, at the Foot of the Capitolino. In Transtevere in the Vaticano, in Piazzo Siena, which hath a rich Chapel of the Rusellai. Santo Angelo nel Foro Bovare in the Fish market, heretofore a Temple of Mercury in Dioclesians hott Baths; was dedicated by Pius the 4th. to the blessed Virgin and the Angels, near it is a Cloyster for the Carthusian Fryers supported by 100. Pillars. In it lies buried the said Pius the 4th. Bocca, Scorbellone: Francesco Alciato: and Simonetto Cardinal S. Angelo, of Mozarella nel Monte Giordano.
Santa Anna, in the Flaminian Circe, and under the Viminale.
Sant' Antonio in Portogallo-Di Pado [...]a, in the Valle Martia. Nel Esquilino, where at the festival of Saint Anthony, they drive all their Beasts and Sheep up near to the Altar, that they may afterwards be protected against the danger of Diseases and Wolves. Near to it stands the Hospital restored by Pius the 4th. a Millanese.
Santo Apollinare, formerly the Temple of Apollo, Iulius the third joyned to it the Colledge of the Germans. Near it stood the house of Mark Antony the triumvir.
Li santi Apostoli XII. in Trivio, here reside the Fryers Conventuals of Saint Francis: The Inscription on a Marble stone assures us, twas built by Constantine the Great, afterwards ruined by the Hereticks, and then restored by Pelagius and Giovanni the Popes. Wherein are the Graves and Tombs of the great Cardinal Niceno Bessarione, the Tusculan Bishop, and Constantinopolitan Patriark. Of Cardinal Pietro Savonese. Of Bartolomeo, Cameriero Beneventano, the Divine aud Lawyer. Of Cornelius Mussus Bishop of Bittonto the Prince of Preachers Li Santi Apostoli XII. in the Vatican.
Santo Augustino in Campo Martio a convent of the Austin Fryers, [Page 162] Herein lies the body of Santa Monica the Mother of Saint Austin a Father and Doctor of the Church with these Verses.
This Saint Austin was Bishop of Hippo in Alexandria, a man of a most profound wit, and learning, and of a most holy and religious life. And these Austine Fryers observe his institutes of life living in comon, serving God day and night, and are tyed by the vows of poverty, Chastity and Obedience. The Cardinals Burdegalense and Verallo ly buried in this Church.
Santa Bibiana in Monte Aventino. Here stood the Baths of Anthony, B and the Palace of Licinius.
Santa Barbara in the high Street Pigna was formerly a Temple of Venus in the Pompeyan Theatre.
San Bart [...]lomeo of the Island in Transtevere, was heretofore a Temple of Iupiter, or as some say of AEsculapius. Now is there a Convent of Franc [...]scans called Zoccolanti, from their going on wooden pattons and an ancient In [...]cription in stone to the God Semone Sanco, here also lyes the body of Saint Bartholomew.
San Basilio, in the Foro di Nerva.
San Benedetto, in the Piazza Catinara, and in the Piazza Madama.
San Bernardo near the Pillar, and Baths of Trajan the Emperour.
San Biagio, in the Campo Martio, della Tinta, on the Bank of Tiber. Here stood the Temple of Neptune, wherein such as were delivered from Shipwrack, used to hang up a Tablet with the story of their danger and manner of deliverance painted and described in it: Dell▪ Anello in the Road Pigna della Fossa, as you come from the Esquilino, delle Coltre in the Campitello.
Santa Bibiana, in the Esquilie.
San Bonifacio in Aventino, at present called Sant [...] Alessio.
Santa Brigide in the Street Harenula.
Santa Cecilia in Transtevere for Nuns. In this Church is the body C of this holy Virgin with many other bodies of Saints, honoured with great devotion, and translated from Campo Martio, by Cardinal Paulo Emilio Sfondrato Nephew of Gregory the 14th.
San Cesario in the Road di Ripa, excellently repaired by Pope Clement the 8th.
La Chiesa de'Cartusiani, or Carthusians, which is called Santa Maria delli Angeli.
Santa Catharina, in-the Flaminian Circ, now delli Funari della Rot [...] and il Borgo Novo.
San Celso, near the Bridge, Castello in Banchi.
San Crisogonio in Transtevere: wherein stands the Tomb and Epitaph of Girolamo Alexandro a most learned Doctor, and of David Uviliano, or Evelyn an English Oratour.
Santo Clemente in Monte Celio: here lies the body of Pope Clement the Martyr, conveighed to Rome from Chersona a City of Pontus: as as also of Cardinal Vincenso Laureo.
[Page 163] Santa Costanza, in the Street Nomentana, This is conjectured to have been a Temple of Bacchus, for a Monument yet appearing of Porphyr stone.
Santi Cosino and Damiano, in the Via sacra, so called for that the South-sayers used to pass that way; This was formerly the Temple of Romulus and Remus. In it are the Tombs of Crescentius, and Grudone Pisano, with the Epitaphs in verse.
San Cosmo, under the Gianicolo. Antiently the Temple dedicated to Fortune:
Santa Elizabetta in Parione. E
Santa Enfemia in Esquilie.
Santo Eustachio near the Rotonda, was formerly a Temple of the good—. . . .
San Francesco at the Foot of Gianicolo, Herein is the sepulchre of F Pandolfus Count of Anguillarie, who when 100. yeers old became a Franciscan Fryer.
San Gregorio, in Velabro.
San Gregorio, at the head of the Ponte fabritio, and in Monte Celio, G formerly a Monastery of the Germans and Flemings, but now of Fryers. Here stood antiently the house of San Gregory the first Pope, and here they yet shew the Table, whereat he dayly sed a great number of poor Persons, as in his life wrote by Giovani Diacone is set forth & here lies Cardinal Lomelino a Genovese Many Epitaphs of Florentines are here set up, and of Edoardo Carno, and Roberto Veramo two English Knights both Lawyers, who being driven out of their Countrey for defending the Catholick Religion, came to Rome to finish their days in the peace of the Lord: As also of Antonio Valle of Barcellona, And of one Statius a Poet, who wrote with Virgil, as may be collected from this Epitaph.
San Girolamo, near the Corte Savella, here the Oratorians, a Religious Order, instituted with great piety by Saint Philippus Nerius a Florentine Priest in the last age, who from this Oratory of St. Hierome took their name, for that it was the place frequented by them for their exercises of Catechising and preaching. whose number is greatly increased by his Disciples
San Giacomo in Circo Flaminio: This is an Hospital for Spaniards, divers Epitaphs of which Nation are there inscribed, with the memorials of Bartolomeo Cuevio the Cardinal, and of Bernardino, Bishop of Cordona. In it is the Pourtray of Pietro Ciocconio, a Priest of Toledo, who had most happy success to his labour in amending the Books of holy and prophane writers Degli incurabili. Scossa cavallo
San Giovanni Battista in Monte Celio. San Giovanni Evangelista before the Porta Latina, in Monte Celio, formerly a Temple of Diana, San Giovanni Colivita in the Isola: supposed an antient Temple of AEsculapius Nel Fonte in Monte Celio; Nel Laterano, one of the seaven principal Churches before spoken of. In Dola, upon Monte CelioNell'Oglio before the Porta latina. Del Mercatello al Campi doglio, De Malna [Page 164] in Transtavere. Della Pigna, in the high Street Pigna.
San Giovanni & Paulo nel Monto Celio, with two Lyons before the Door. The one holding a Boy between his Teeth, and the other a Man, in it is one Sepulchre of porphyr stone. Here antiently was the Curia Hostilia.
San Gioseffo in the street Pigna.
San Giuliano in the Esquilino.
Sant'Iuo in the Campo Martio appertaining to the Biertoni. I
San Lorenzo near a Fish Market, Nel Viminale. Nel Gianicolo▪, antiently L a Temple of Iuno Lucina, here lyes Cardinal Francesco Gonzaga. In Fonte nella Valle Esquilina. In Miranda in the Foro Romano. In Palispirna on the hill Viminale, wherein is inscribed an Epitaph of Cardinal Guglielmo Sirleto, the most quaint in the Greek language, here stood the Palace of Decius the Emperour. In Damaso, in the Pigna: where are exposed the Epitaphs of Annibal Caro, the most elegant in the Tuscan language. Of Giacomo Fabia of Parma. Of Pietro Marsa. Of Giulio Sadoleto, Girolamo Ferraro and other illustrious men. ▪ To this Fabrick were brought the Marbles sculptures and other ornaments of the Arco Gordiano.
San Leonardo in Carine. In Olfeo. In Septi solio. In Esquilino, and S. Leonardo Vecchio among the obscure shops, on the bankes of the Tyber in the Longara.
Santa Lucia, in the Palace: heretofore the Temple of Apollo Pal [...] tino Nelle Botteghe obscure. In old time the Temple of Hercules, and of the Muses.
San Lodovico near Novanna, the Church of the French Nation adorned with the Epitaphs of the most Noble Persons of France.
Santa Maria Egittiaca formerly the Temple of Fortuna virilis, wherein M (as is supposed) then stood the Bucca Veritatis, a marble statue set up by the Romans, for the tryal of Chastity, with a wide mouth and great lips: A daughter of Volateranus Regulus to prove her Virginity unpolluted (being accused for that crime) put her hand in its mouth and withdrew it without hurt: another Damosel making the same tryal, being unchast, had her right hand bit off by the Statue. Santa Maria del animam Parione, a stately Church wherein the Germans, and Flemings reside and assist the necessitous Pilgrimes of those Nations. In it is an Image of the Virgine Mary with these Verses.
On the left hand of the great Altar stands a Sepulchre of Adrian the 4th. (made by Cardinal Eutcefora) who was the only person that could say he had created another Pope in his own life time. On the right the costly Tombe of Carlo Prince of Cleves, who dyed in the yeer of Iubilee 1575 the 13th. of February with the universal sorrow of all good men, but chiefly of Gregorie the 13th. Stephano Pighio, wrote his life with that learned Book entitled Ercole Prodicio with the Epitaphs of Francesco Foresto, Giovanni Roseto and other noble and excellent men.
Santa Maria in Araceli, on the Capitolino, formerly a Temple of Iupiter [Page 165] Ferenius, now a Convent of the Zoccolanti, or Franciscans, In it are many antient Epitaphs: and an Altar supported by four lovely Pillars, Tis the Church for the Senate and People of Rome, embellished with the ornaments of the Temple of Quirinus: and is ascended unto by one hundred twenty four steps.
Santa Maria Aventina, on the hill Aventino formerly the Temple of the Dea bona, or good Goddess. Here may be read the lamentation of a woman slain by her Husband. Santa Maria de▪ Cacabary in Pigna Santa Maria in campo santo, in the Vally Vaticano, wherein some Epitaphs are legible.
Santa Maria nel Campidoglio, antiently the Temple of Iupiter Capitolinus Nella Capell [...] beyond the Tevere or Tyber. In Candelorio, in the street Saint Angelo, della concettione, the Conception, in Monte Celio. Nel Velabro, formerly a Temple. of Hercules. In Dominica, on Mount Celio, where were the Aqueducts of Caracalla. Nel Esquilino, in circo Flaminio, in times past the Temple of Isis, In corte under the Campidoglio Liberatione dell'inferno, sometime a Temple of Iupiter Stator in foro Romano. Di Loreto Delle Febre in old time the Temple of Mars, Della Consolatione and Della Gratie, where formerly stood the Temple of Vesta between the Capitolinum and Palatinum, there the Vestal Virgins guarded the sacred Fire, and the Palladium, which was a woodden Image of Pillars with rouling Eyes, brought by AEneas from Troy (when fired) into Italy with his other houshold Gods, and was by him snatched out of the fired Temple.
Santa Maria sopra Minerva so called for that this was a Temple of Minerva, at present the Fathers Dominicans possess it, and a Colledge for Theology founded by the Bishop of Cutcha. In it are the Tombes and Epitaphs of Leo the 10th. and Paul the 4th. with many others among which the Chief are of Pietro Bembo, of Giovanni Morone who was thirteen several times Legatus a Latere for the Pope, and President of the Councel of Trent, and of Giovanni Torrecremata, who be queathed a large Revenue for mariage Portions for Virgins, which are solemnized yeerly in the Popes presence on the Festival of the Anunciation, In it also are the ashes of Egidio Foscari, Bishop of Modena, who in the Councel of Trent was styled the Greater Light: Of Sylvester Aldobrandino, Father of Clement the 8th. of Giovanni Annio, the Historian and of many other eminent Fathers: As also the body of Santa Catarina of Siena, and the Epitaph of Guglielmo Durando, Bishop of Numata, who composed a Book entitled, Rationale Divinorum Officiorum, with other volumes of the Law.
In the said Temple was erected the first Fryery of the sancto sacramento by Thomaso Stella a Preacher: and Michael Angelo Buonarota was the inventor of the Tabernacle for keeping the consecrated Eucharist. Before the Door of the Church stand the Tombes of Tomaso di Vio, and Giovanni Badia Cardinals and of Paulo Manutio the Elegant, who for all his Fame, ran the same Fate with Pompey the Great, who living filled the world with his glory, and dead no Epitaph nor memorial remains of him, but we find there this Epitaph of Raphael Stantio a Painter of Urbin, though much less renowned than the preceding.
Santa Maria de'Miracoli in Monte Gordiano Di [...], in the street St. E [...]stachio Di Mont ferrato the Church of the Catalo [...]ians, in Mo [...]ticelli, in the Herenula Della Navicella, in Monte Celio, Nova, in the Foro Romano formerly a Temple of the Sun and Moon, now enjoyed by the Monks of Mount Olivet. Annonciata the Colledge of the Jesuists. Della Pace, the dwelling of the Canon Regulars, therein stand a Tomb of Marco Musuro a Learned Candiot with this Epitaph.
Here are the Tombs of Capa ferro, and Mignanello Cardinals, and this Epitaph of Iulius Saturnus
Santa Maria delle Paline, in the Viae Appia formerly a Temple of Saturn and Opes where they shew a saphyr brought from Heaven by the Angels, wherein the Virgines Image was cut as they say by the life in Heaven.
Santa Maria del P [...]polo near the Por [...]a Flaminia, before which Pope Sixtus the 5th. erected an Obelisk. Tis a Convent of the Austine Fryers the Popes give license for the People to pay their devotions here while violent he [...]ts continue instead of Saint Sebastian which stands a good distance without the Walls. In it are many fair Chapels, and Tombs of many Cardinals particularly of Hermol [...]o Barbaro Patriark of Aquileia with this Epitaph.
On the ground this sad complaint of one that dyed upon an inconsiderable hurt may be read
Santa Maria di Portogallo at the end of the Suburbs. In Pust [...]la. In publicolis, near the Palace of the Signoro Santa Croce. Al Presepe.
Santa Maria Rotonda, so called from its orbicular form. A Temple [Page 167] formerly dedicated to all the Gods, and to their Mother, and built in a round figure, to the end the Gods might not fall out for precedency of place, for that they seigned their Gods would not give place to one another. Thermes refusing it to Iupiter. Now this Church is consecrated to the blessed Virgin and all the Saints. Tis a most noble Fabrick, built by Vespatia [...]s Agrippa, who was three times Consul, as by the Inscription appears. This by the most skilfull Artizans in Architecture, and chiefly by Lodovicus Domontiorius, in his book intitled: Gallus Hospes in Urbe, is held for an Idea, Example and Pattern of true Architecture: Tis of a cross figure as broad as high: the Roof was formerly covered with Sylver plates, but Constantine the Nephew of Heraclius, took them with the other ornaments of the City away, instead whereof Martin the 7th. overlayed it with Lead: It hath but one window, which is at the very top, and admits as much light as is necessary: in antient time it had 7 steps of Ascent into it, now it hath eleven of descent, a good argument to what heighth this City is raised by its ruines. Its noble Porticue is sustained, by four great pillars, with beams and Gates of Brass. The Great Altar is opposite to the Door. On the wall appears the head of the Mother of God. The ascent to the Top is by 100 steps. Before the Church stands a great Vessel of Numidian Marble, square at top but bellyed like a Bee-hive. Near which were two Lyons with AEgyptian Letters, and a round Vessel of the same Marble. In it is the subsequent Epitaph of Tadeo Zaccaro, a Pointer, contemporary with Raphael d▪Urbino, the Prince of the Painters of later Ages, who we formerly said, lyes buried in Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
Santa Maria Scala Caeli, without the Porta Ostiense, where 10000: Persons were Martyred: tis called Scala Caeli, because St. Bernard there praying for the Souls of the dead, had an appearance of a Ladder from the Earth to heaven, upon which he saw some Souls ascend into Paradise. Del Sole under Monte Tarpeio della Strada near the Portico Corinthio, and the Campidoglio now denominated Del nome di Giesu A noble Church built by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, for the Jesuits, wherein himself is interred. In Transtevere. Here in the time of Angustus gushed out in a common Inn a spring or source of Oyl, which continued running for one whole day, presaging that a short time after Christ the source and fountain of Mercy should be born, Here was a Church built in honour of the Virgin Mary by St. Peter, which by succeeding High Bishops was adorned with excellent Pictures, and enriched divers times with gold and silver and encreased in bigness to what it now appears. In it are the Sepulchres of Stanislao Bishop of Varma who was that Polack Cardinal Praefect of the Tridentine Councel and the scourge of the Hereticks.
Of Cardinal Campeggio, and Altemps a man of great Dispatch. Transportina in Borgo in old time the Temple of Adrian the Emperour, wherein St. Peter and St Paul were scourged. In Via Lata the Church of the Fathers Servients, where under ground many Trophees and Triumphal [Page 168] Images have been found. In it lyes buried Cardinal Vitellotio Vitelli: Here St. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles, Acta Apostolorum: and this was the place where St. Paul prayed. Del Trivio, which Church was restored by Belisarius great Captain for Iustinian the Emperour, as appears by an inscription on a stone, here lyes Luigi Cornaro, and others, it appertains to the Padri Croicchieri, the crutched Fryers.
Santa Maria in Vinea in the descent from Monte Tarpeio. In Via delle Virgini, amplifyed by Pietro Donato a Cardinal therein enterred, where also San Philippo Nerio, accounted one of the Saints of Pope Gregory the 15 his Family, setled his order of Oratories, which was a true School for well living.
Santa Maria Magdalena, in the stree Colonna, Between the Hill Santa Trinita, and the Tyber. Nel Quirinale, where is a Monastery of Nuns governed by the Predicatory, instituted by Maddalena Orsina.
San Mauro in the midst of the Jesuits Colledge: Near this Church is an Obelisk which though small, appears glorious through the Hierogliphicks carved on it, here lies Pietro Giglio a great Schollar who dyed anno 1555 whose Tombe Georgio Cardinal of Armignac caused to be built as to his familiar friend.
San Marcello nella Via Lata, was a Temple of Isis, in it are the Fryers Servients, in it are buried the Cardinals Mercurio, Dandino, and Bonuccio.
San Marco, wherein lies Francesco Pisani a Venetian Cardinal.
San Martino of the Carmelites in Monte Esquilino, where Cardinal Diomede Caraffa is buried.
Santa Martina in the Foro Romano, antiently a Temple of Mars Ultor.
Santa Margarita at the Foot of the Esquilino.
San Matteo in Esquilino, possessed now by the Austin Fryers, but formerly by the crutched Fryers, which Church is supposed to be the house of their first Founder Saint Cletus the first Pope, for that tis seated in the Borgo Patritio, where he was born: which having consecrated he gave to his Disciples and Children for the service of God.
San Michael in Borgo.
Santi Nereo & Archielo near the Baths of Antonius, formerly a Temple N of Isis in the Via Appia.
San Nicolo in Agone. In Archemoni. Acapole Cose. Degli Arcioni. In Carcere a Ripa formerly the publique prison. In Calcaria near which was the Portico Corinthio.
Sant' Onofrio in Gianicolo, where lyes Cardinal Madruccio, who dyed O the day of his creation, Cardinal Lodovico Madruzzi, Nephew of the first Cardinal Sega, a Bolonian, and Tasso the excellent Poet.
San Pancratio in Gianicolo, wherein is a Pulpit of neat fair porphyr, P & underneath it are Grottos filled with the bodies of Martyrs: Herein lies Cardinal Dersonese, and near it was slain Bourbon the enemy of God.
San Pantaleone in Sebucca formerly a Temple dedicated to the Goddess Tellus, and to Pasquinus.
[Page 169] San'Paolo in Regola in the street Harenula.
San Pietro & Marcellino, heretofore the Temple of Quietas.
San Pietro in carcere. This was the Tulliane prison, whereof Salust makes mention in Catalines conspiracy. Diodate in the Via Piamense, Montorio in the Gianicolo: A fair Church and well adorned, wherein is the fair Chapel of Bradamante, endowed by Ferdinand King of Spain, near it stands a Convent of Observants of Saint Francis Order of this society died anno 1597 Fryer Angelo a learned Spaniard, who wrote a great Volume upon the Symbol or Creed of the twelve Apostles. In it are several pieces of Raphael d'Urbino, and Sebastiano Venetiano, two famous Painters, and several Tombs. San Pietro Domine quo vadis, in the Via appia Rotonda, this Church was so called because Saint Peter, flying persecution, Christ appeared to him, of whom Saint Peter demanded whither he was going in these words Domine quo vadis? to whom Christ answered I am going to Rome, that I may there be once more crucified: from which words St. Peter took courage, and returned to Rome, where he was afterwards crucified, and his head set on high. S. Pietro in vincula; where the Chains wherewith Saint Peter was bound in Ierusalem and in Rome, are sanctimoniously preserved, as also the Bodies of the Maccabei and a part of the Cross of Sant Andrea, whose head is kept i [...] San Pietro in the Vatican, being sent by an Emperour of Constantinople to the Pope, and the rest of his Body is in the Kingdom of Naples: This Church hath one stupendious Altar: and brasen Doors, wherein the passions of Saint Peter are excellently represented: Under the Sepulchre of Pope Giulio the second lies a most fair statue of Moyses the Captain of the Hebrews, the workmanship of Michael Angelo, of Florence. Many other memorable things are shewed in this Church. In the Convent is a Palme tree which alone in Rome produceth seasonable and ripe Fruit: Here lies buried the Cardinals Nicolo Cusano, Sadoleto, and Rovero, the walls present some inscriptions of the old Gentiles. Some other things will be related of this Church in the third dayes Journey.
San Peregrina alla porta pertura, whence that Burge takes name.
Santa Prossede in the Esquilino, built by Pope Pasquale the 1st. wherein stands the Pillar to which our Saviour was bound when scourged, conveighed from the Eastern parts by Cardinal Giovanni Colonna: and here Saint Peter dwelt. At the Altar are six Pillars of Porphyr and two of black Marble with white spots. In it are many bodies of Saints reposed, and in the midst is a hollow with a grate over it, wherein Prascede squeazed the blood of the Martyrs, which he had sucked up with spunges in divers places: About 400. yeers agoe the Monks of Valle Umbrosa resided here.
Santa Prisca in Monte Aventino, antiently a Temple dedicated to Hercules.
Santa Prudentiana in the Viminale: here they shew that stone upon which the bloudy Host appeared, while a Priest misdoubted the holy Sacrament at the Altar. This is the most antient Church of Rome and said to be the place where Saint Peter celebrated Mass: here ly the bodies of 3000. Martyrs and a venerable Vessel for their bloodThe penitentiary Dominicans inhabite there: and the Monks of Saint Bernard. Cardinal Gaetano a noble Roman, who built a stately Chapel [Page 170] in it, and Cardinal Radzivil Lima [...]o (a good patriot of the Catholick Religion though born of Heretick parents) ly buried there.
Santi Quaranta Martini, commended by Saint Bassilia in a sermon. Q
Santi Quatro Coronati in Monte Celio.
Santi Quirico & Giulita in the Suburbs.
San Rocco nella Martia. R
S. Rufina beyond the Tyber, and at Saint Giova [...] Laterano.
Santa Sabina in Monte Aventino, the first Residence of the Popes, is S now of the Dominican Fryers: here they shew the stone which the Devil in vain cast at Saint Dominick with intention to kill him, before the Door of this Church stands the greatest Urn of one stone in Rome. Here they keep the Reliques of Pope Alexander of Quentius and Theodulus the Martyrs: Of Sabina and Seroffia the Virgin all Martyred under Adrian the Emperour anno Christi 133▪ and here layed up by Eugenius the 4th. anno 822. who is likewise enterred here with an Epitaph in heroick verse, as are the Cardinals Bartano and Tiano, Here grows yet a Pomgranat tree planted by Saint Dominick with the assistance of San Giacinto, which the Romans through devotion despoil of all Leaves and Fruit the first day of Lent, the Pope and Prelates coveting of its Leaves which they wear. Here Saint Dominick gave the first Rise to his Order, and vested San Giacinto in his Religious Order and habite, where he had many Visions of Angels.
Santo Sabba Abbate in Aventino; where ariseth a stately great Sepulchre, believed to be of Titus Vespasian.
San Salvadore del Campo in the Strada Giulia, Di Laurane in Monte Melie Di Copelle in the Precinct Colonna del Lauro, near Monte Giordino, which belongs to the noble Family Orsini, who with the Maltei ly there buried. Dal Portico under the Rupe Tarpeia. In Massime, a Temple first dedicated to Iove, Minerva, and Iuno ly M. Pulvi [...]ius Statera. dedicated to Saturn in the Campi doglio, Delle Stufe Della Pietra, a Temple of the Goddess Piety in old time. De Pedemonte. Delle tre Imagini.
San Spirito in Vaticano beyond Tiber, where stands that rich Hospital so worthy consideration where Cardinal Remnano Francesco is enterred.
San Sebastiano and Fabiano: of which is said in the description of the 7 principal Churches.
San Sergio & Bacco in the Campidoglio formerly a Temple of Concord.
San Simeone in the high street Ponte▪
San Sisto in the Piscina inferna of old Temple of Vertue and Honour. Herein Saint Dominick raised a defunct, named Napuleone from the dead▪ and wrote many other miracles: Here the first Nuns congregated, from a general separation over Rome: but they were translated into a more salubrious Ayr. It being extream nau seous.
San Staniflao, A Church of the Polanders.
San Stephano of the Hungari [...]s. Rotondo in Monte Celio, formerly a Temple of Faunus, but now a Colledge of the Germans, round which is drawd the Triumphes of the holy Martyres, Nel foro Boario. A temple of the Goddess Vesta, In Via Giulia. In Silice, Dell Frullo near the Porticue of Anthony.
[Page 171] Santa Susanna, in Monte Quirinale: where stands a fair Brasen Cistern and Vessel filled with holy water.
San Silvestro in Colonna. A Santiquaro. Nel Quirinale dedicated by Clement the 7th. anno 1524: wherein the Cardinals Rebiba, Antonio Caraffa, and Francesco Cornaro ly buried. Beyond the Tyber near the Arch of Domitian.
San Tomasa in Monte Celio nel Rione Harenula, nella Via Iulia in Parione.
San Theodoro at the foot of Monte Palatino antiently the Temple of Romulus and Remus or as others say of Pan and Bacchus.
Santa Trinita de monti, built by Lewis the 11th. King of France by the Council of Saint Francis, appertains to the Minimes who are near all French. In it are buried Rodolfo Pio: Crasso and Bellay Cardinals: Lueretia della Rovere Niece to Giulius the second, and Marco Moreto a most eloquent Oratour with this Epitaph.
Santa Trinita of the English. This is a Colledge of English Catholicks, whence divers have been transmitted into England, who were there martyred by the ( ut aiunt,) Hereticks. Herein lies Cardinal Allen who took a voluntary banishment from his own Countrey: and employed the rest of his days in great Labour and pains in defence of the Catholick Faith.
San Trisone near Sant Agostino.
San Valentino in the Circo Flaminio.
San Vitale in the Quirinale, lately repaired and now governed by the Jesuits.
San Vito nel Riouo del Ponte wherein lyes Carlo Visconte a Cardinal.
The Officers of the Popes Palace.
THe Popes Court exceeding that of any other Christian Prince his Officers also be many. Which is governed with such Order. That not only the meaner persons but also the Cardinals (whose dignity is equal to that of Kings) travel not forth the City without license first obtained.
The number of Cardinals is not praefixt, but left to the will of the Pope: forty of them at least, being alwaies obliged to reside in Rome: where also many Arch Bishops and Bishops are constantly present.
In the Popes family are the persons under written.
| AUditori di rota. | AUditors of the Roll | 12. |
| Chierici di Camera. | Clerks of the Chamber | 7. |
| Auditor di Camera. | Auditor of the Chamber | 1. |
| Comissario di Camera. | Comissary of the Chamber | 1. |
| Maestro del sacro Pallazzo. | Controuler of the holy Palace | 1. |
| Comissario Generale del santo Officio. | The General Commissary of the holy Office. | 1. |
| Reggente del Cancellaria. | The Ruler of the Chancery: | 1. |
| Protonotorii Apostolici. | Apostolick Prothonotaries | 7. |
| Subdiaconi. | Subdeacons. | 6. |
| Accoliti. | Resolute Men | 8. |
| Secretarii Apostolici. | Apostolick secretaries | 8. |
| Corretto di Cancellaria. | The Punisher for the Chancery | 1. |
| Summista. | A Summist | 1. |
| De Consueti. | Observers of the Rules | 1. |
| Abbreviatori minori. | Less Abbreviators | 12. |
| Custo di de Cancellaria. | Keeper of the Chancery | 1. |
| Secretorio delle Cedole. | Secretary of the Docquets | 1. |
| Hostiario di Cancellaria. | The Hostia keeper of the Chancery | 1. |
| Scritttori Apostolici. | Apostolick writers | 101 |
| Camierieri Apostolici. | Apostolick Grooms of the Chamber | 60. |
| Scudieri Vivandieri Apostolici. | Querries of the stable or Vianders. | 140. |
| Cavalieri di St. Pietro. | Knights of St. Peter | 400. |
| Cavalieri di St. Paulo. | Knights of St. Paul | 22. |
| Scrittori di Brevi. | Writers of Briefs | 81. |
| Procuratori di Penitentiaria. | Proctors of the Office Penitentiaria | 24. |
| Scrittori di Penitentiaria. | Writers in the office Penitentiaria | 29. |
| Correttori di Piombo. | The stampers of the Leaden Seal | 104 |
| Correttorio di Penitentiaria. | The Stampers of the Office Penitentiaria | 11. |
| Solicitatori. | Pursevants | 100. |
| Correttori del Archivio. | Overseers of the Arches or spiritual Court | 10. |
| Scrittori del Archivio. | Writers in the Arches or spiritual Court | 10. |
| Secretarii delle Bolle Salaciate. | Secretary of the Pensionary Buls | 8 |
| Registratori del istesse Bolle. | Registers of the said Bulls | 4 |
| Maestri delle Bolle Registrate. | Masters of the registred Bulls | 4 |
| [Page 175] Auditore delle contradette. | Hearers of differences | 14. |
| Maestri delle Suppliche. | Masters of Requests | 4. |
| Chierici delle suppliche. | Clerks of the Requests | 6. |
| Notari della Camera Apostolica. | Notaries of the Apostolick Chamber | 9. |
| Scrittori del Registro delle supliche. | Writers in the Registry of Requests. | 20. |
| Notari del Auditor della Camera. | Notaries for the Auditor of the Chamber | 10. |
| Notari di Rota. | Notaries of the Rouls | 48. |
| Notari del Vicario del Papa. | Notaries of the Popes Viccar | 4. |
| Notari del Governatore civile. | Notaries of the civil Magistrat | 11. |
| Notaro de maleficii. | Notary of Offences | 1. |
| Notaro di Cancellaria. | Notary of the Chancery | 1. |
| Presidenti di Ripa. | Presidents of the Bench | 141. |
| Portionarii. | Partakers | 612. |
| Corsori. | Apparitors | 19. |
| Servatori d'Arme. | Keepers of the Arms | 24. |
| Verghe Rosse. | Red Rodds | 24. |
| Catene nel Sacro Pallazzo. | Chains in the sacred Pallace. | 71. |
| Porte di ferro. | Gates of Iron | 26. |
| Cavalli leggieri communemente. | Light horses comonly | 100. or 200. |
| Bombardieri. | Gunners | 300. |
Switzers, or Germans for guarding the Gates of the Popes Pallace, of whom 200. or 300. alwaies keep Sentinel.
Pope Gregory the 13th: in tenn yeers of his Enjoyment of the Pontifical Chair instituted nineteen Seminaries or Colledges for all Nations in Rome, for the benefit and propagation of the Catholick Faith and for reception, as well as Instruction of such as abandon their own Countreys by reason of persecutions.
To which are since added 7 more instituted by Clement the 8th. and others.
Of the Obelisks. Columnes and Aqueducts of ROME.
THe Obelisks restored erected and transferred by Pope Sixtus the 5th. of glorious memory with incredible expence, by the workmanship of the Inginier Domenico Fontana, and consecrated to the most holy Cross are these.
The Obelisk of Tiberius Caesar standing now in the Piazza of St. Peter in Vaticano: in the second yeer of his inauguration, anno Dom. 1586.
That of Augustus Caesar brought from AEgypt, and translated from San Rocco to Santa Maria Maggiore is not engraven nor carved at all.
[Page 173]That which was consecrate to the Sun transferred from Circo Massimo, (where it lay on the ground) to San Giovanni in Laterano, is carved with AEgyptian characters, and was reared the third year of his Papacy; Augustus took it from its place in AEgypt & conveyed it vpon the Nilo into Alexandria, where imbarquing it, he sent it by sea for adornment of Rome, which he sought to imbellish in all things possible: which his endeavour and cost caused him once to vaunt, that he found Rome all of Brick, but left it of Marble
That dedicated to the Sun by Augustus in Circo Maximo, being drawn out of the Ruines among which twas buried, was translated with infinite expence to the porta Flaminia and raised before the Church S Maria del Popolo
Besides the abovenamed, divers other Obelisks and Pyramides are yet extant in Rome, but all of small value, except that which was newly erected in the Piazza Novana by Innocent the X which is admirable▪
We gather from the writers of Antiquity that formerly there were many more Obelisks in Rome then at present appear. Pliny the time of Vespasian names many of them. Ammianus Marcellinus the contemporary with Iulian the Emperour sets down more, but P. Victor commemorates to the number of 42. treating of the less. Andrea Fulvius, Pietrus, Angelus, Burgeus Pigafetta, and Michael Mercato, in the latine and vulgar tongue give thereof most ample accounts.
Augustus Caesar transmitted two Obelisks from AEgypt to Rome, at the time he overcame Marc Anthony and Cleopatra, and Publius Victor, reckons seaven more conveighed thither afterwards. One whereof was placed in the Gardens of Salustius, which took up all the space and the vale from the Church Santa Susanna to the Porta Collina: This (they say) was consecrated to the Moon, and carved with Egyptian Characters, What vast Vessels were built for conveighing these Pliny and Ammianus discourse at large, and one they say had 300 mariners in her. Now let us speak of those Obelisks that are marked with AEgyptian Characters: That of Saint Peter and Santa Maria maggiore being without such.
The Obelisk before Saint Giovanni Laterano, all over engraved with Hieroglyphicks was brought as asoresaid by Constantine the great out of AEgypt into Alexandria and erected in Constantinople, and thence by Constantius his son in an immense Galley wherein were 300 Rowers at the Oar, to Rome and by him placed in the Circo Maximo: which Sixtus the 5th. anno 1588 with incredible expence removed to Saint Giovanni Laterano where the Popes used formerly to inhabit. A second he removed from the Circo Massimo to Santa Maria Maggiore formerly Consecrated to the Sun:
The third in the Vineyard of the great Duke of Tuscany, filled with Hyerogliphicks: tis but small but tis thought stood in the Campo Martio, in the time of Tarquine the proud.
The fourth less than the former was transferred from the Campidoglio, by Ciriaco Mattei, and stands in the Vineyard of the Mattaei who had it of the gift of the Senat and people of Rome: this hath some small Images on the top only; the others all over.
There is another lying in the Via Appia, near the Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella broke in 3 several pieces: which (tis much admired) [Page 176] that Pope Sixtus the 5th. did not erect as well as the [...]est: nor is it to be believed but that he would have done it, had not death interrupted this and his other designes. One other smaller Obelisk stands near the Jesuits Colledge.
Tis admirable that upon all those Hierogls▪ & Obelisks the sign of the Cross is figured: which might happen, either for that the AEgyptians through some mistery honoured the Cross, or for that they might have had some relation touching it from their Ancestors, and yet without knowing the signification. At the time when by the Emperour Theodosius his command all the Idols of AEgypt were destroyed, On the Breast of Serapis was found the sign of the Cross, whereof the signification being enquired into, the Priests skilled in the sacred misteries of the AEgyptians declared, that they understood by it the Life to come after death here: which could not portend other, than the eternal beatitude whereto our Saviour by his death on the Cross opened the way. Thus Socrates the writer of the Ecclesiastick Histories in his 5th. Book 27th. Chap. recounts, as also do Russino, Georgio Cedreno, and Suida, in their writings. We must observe that the punishment by the Cross in those dayes common to Malefactors was taken away by Constantine the Emperour a true Christian, through his Reverence of our Saviours death: who in lieu thereof constituted the Gallows, as divers Authors relate: Which Emperour also prohibited by a severe Law, the conculcating any Cross upon the Earth Let thus much serve touching the Obelisks of Rome, if the Reader be curious to search into those in Constantinople and other places (the discourse whereof is not to our purpose) let him peruse the treatises of Michael Mercato, Pietro Bellonio, and Pietro Gillio, upon this subject.
In Rome also are 3 famous Collumnes: one Called Rostrata in the Campidoglio erected by C. Duilio, after the Carthaginians were overcome in the Punick War. Another of Trajan, which Sixtus the fifth dedicated to St, Peter: and that of Anthony which the same Pope consecrated to Saint Paul in anno 1580.
The AQUEDUCTS.
TIBERIUS Caesar conveighed the Acqua Virgin into the City but the works falling to decay Pope Nicholas the 5. in the yeer of Christ 1554. and the seaventh of his Papacy restored it to its first beauty as by the Inscription at the Fontana di Trevi appears.
Sixtus the 5th. brought the Acqua Felice into the City, calling it Felice from his own name before he was advanced to the Pontifical Chair: Other Popes have likewise layed and restored other waters for the Citizens conveniency and delight.
A Guide or Direction for the most convenient view of the Antiquities of ROME.
WE will begin from the Vatican, chiefly in favour of those who come from Tuscany to Rome, entring by the Porta Vaticata, near the Castle Saint Angelo. Here ly the Meadowes and fields of Quintius or as others say of Pincius at this day called Prata a lovely and pleasant place, whither the youth usually resort for Recreation.
The Porta Elia, called vulgarly di Castello leads to Adrians Mole, A vast Pile which he raised for the burying place for himself and the Antonini, being large and strong, but at present better accomodated than in his time, for that the Popes have made it a Fortress for their own retreat and security, in time of imminent danger of Enemies, to which a long Gallery under Ground leads from the Palace of St. Peter, for their more convenient and safe passage. Heretofore One Cresentinus made himself Lord of it by force of Arms and of the City also: but at present the Popes possess it, and cal it Castel St. Angelo, from the Marble statue of an Angel with a sword in his hand sett on the top of it, which Alexander the 7th. augmented and fortified in ample manner as by the Inscription on the Bridge may be understood. In it are kept the three millions of Gold, which may not be imployed on any use but defence of the Apostolick state in point of Arms. The Marbles, Collumnes, and Statues formerly there, were conveighed to the Vatican, and placed in the Church of Saint Peter, and the Papal Palace, and nothing of Antiquity left behind but the structure, and two heads, the one of Adrian the Emperour armed, the other of Pallas, with some inscriptions on the walls, which notwithstanding, tis yet most worthy observation. Here stands the Ponte or Bridge Elio, so called for that Elius Adrianus the Emperour built it for his Sepulchre: but at present tis called Ponte di Castello, on either side of it stand the statues of the Apostles Saint Peter and Saint Paul, wrought with excelling Workmanship under Pope Clement the 7th. at the time that the Tyber grown beyond its usual limits, overflowed to the great devastation of the City and this Bridge in anno 1530. Being upon this Bridge, you may see opposite to you the Hospital of Santo Spirito, and the Ruines of the triumphal Bridge, which was so denominated, for that over it were lead the Pompes of Triumphs as the way to the Campidoglio.
All that part of the Vatican hill between the Bridge and the Palace is now called Borgo, but was formerly named la selva because before the time of Pope Alexander the second the Vatican Grove grew there, wherein was erected a Pyramide for the Sepulchre of Scipio Affricanus, whereof some reliques may yet be seen in that part of the [Page 177] Temple called Paradiso; as the great Pyne Apple, and Peacok of Brass guilt.
In the Borgo, almost all the Edifices are stately and noble, and in particular these following: The Palace of the Cardinal of Cesis at the gate of Saint Onofrio, whose first Court is full of Statues and inscriptions, the particulars whereof are printed and published: in it is an Effigies of the Amazon Hippolito infinitely applauded, being the workmanship of Michael Angelo, the Prince of Sculptors, another of Apollo, a third of a Sabyn Woman, no whit inferiour to that of the Amazon, had it Arms proportionable.
In the garden stands a statue of Bacchus upon a Pedistol: A Vessel of Brass with a Faunus, a Neptune, a [...]d an Apollo, holding a Harp in his hand: An Image of Agrippa, the Daughter of Marcus Agrippa Another of Iulia the Daughter of Augustus Caesar, a Pallas armed, and Herma defloured. On the right hand appears a fountain with 22 Circles about it of Marble stone, on which stand the statues of A faunus, Iupiter Hammon, Pompey the Great, Demosthenes, Spensippus the Philosopher, who was thought to be the Son of a Sister of Plato. In prospective from the Gate may be seen Rome triumphing for the overcoming of Dacia, sitting on a Throne with a Murrion on her head and a Branch of Laurel in her hand, with Dacia placed near it, in a mourning posture and Habit; round it are Trophees, as Arms of the Barbarous, two conquered Kings in Numidian Marble, bigger than ordinary men, two statues of two of the Parcae: and two Sphinxes of the same Marble.
Contiguous with it stands a round Fabrick called the Antiquario, from the many Antiquities contained in it: On the Front is fixed a Visage of Iupiter, in porphyr stone, and an effigies of Poppeia the wife of Otho the Emperour: above which stand five statues, That is of Pallas, Cercs, Victoria, Copia, and Diana. Within are seen the Statue of Somnus, or of Quies, or as others will have it of AEsculapius with Poppy in his hands, and an Image of a Sabine Lady. In the gate on the left hand appears a Visage of Iove, as bigg as a Gyants, on the right another of Hercules, and in the midst a third of Pallas. And under that of Hercules, a Satyre, who blows a Shepheards pipe of seaven Reeds: a neater piece of work then which is scarse to be seen, which is attributed to Scopa. Under that of Iove, a head of Pyrrhus King of the Epirotes with a Leda and a Cupid. The Satyr, and the Leda are most compleat statues. In it are the heads also of Portia, Cato, Iupiter, Ganimed, Diana, Neptune, with a most antient AEgyptian Image called the head of Astrate Mother of Osarides, or as others will of Ope, or Cibele the Mother of the Gods.
Near the gate stand two statues, one on the left hand of Aries Fissus of most white Marble, with these words on the Basis, Secura Simplicitas. The other on the right hand of Leone, with these words upon the basis, Innoxia Fortitudo. Near which stands the Emperour, Heliogabulus, clothed at his full length, with certain antique Ceremonies in the sacrifices engraven on the Basis: Upon another Image of an Emperour triumphing drawn by four horses, stands a Simia an Ape cut in AEthiopick Marble in the form the AEgyptians used to worship it. In the Hall is a head of Bacchus of red stone, with a Neptune over it, drawn in a Chariot by four horses, and two statues of the Goddess Pomona.
[Page 178]The study of the Cardinal hath its pavement wrought in figure with small stones: and in it are many heads of illustrious Romans, as of Scipio, Africanus, Marcus Cato, M Antonius the triumvir, Iulius, Caesar, Septimius, Severus, L Sy lla, C Nero, Iulia Mammea; M. Antonius Caracalla, Adrianus, Macrinus, Cleopatra, Faustina, and Sabina, As also a Library furnished no less with Books of Antient than modern Authors, In the withdrawing Chambers are Gems and pretious stones, so well wrought that they best speak themselves, therein also are Scipio Nasica, Brutus, Adrianus Imperator, a sleeping Cupid, and a Child, with divers other vaine things so rare and curious, and rich, that did Rome afford no other Palace than this, you will say when seen, you could not better dispose your time and travel then to behold it; And that it alone deserve the pains of a Journey thither.
The Popes Pallace.
ON the Top of the Vatican Hill stands that proud Pallace of the Popes, which like a large City is capable of three Kings and all their followers: here the Popes (induced thereto from the beauty of the scite, and temperature of the Ayr) for the most part make their dwelling, having deserted their former on the Laterano. The first thing here to be viewed is the Chapel of Sixtus, which for its grandeur and beauty may be paralleld to any other great and noble Church: in it the Card i [...]als assemble themselves for election of the Pope, and call themselves the Conclave, upon the high Altar whereof is that noble Picture representing the Universal Judgment, painted by Michael Angelo, a Piece so generally a pplauded, that it's held in valuable, for its exellency, and unimitable by all succeding Artists, though divers and those the best attempt it dayly: Near it is the Capella Paolina, painted by the same hand: whence the way lies into the Gardens called Belvedere, The fair fight both for their infinite beauty and the prospect of the most part of Rome, in it are many foreign rare plants. Herein stands the statue of the Tyber foxes connexed with a wolf which gave suck to Remus and Romulus; The Nyle upon a Sphinx with 17. Children denoting the increases of that River with its effects upon AEgypt, with several monsters & strong creatures proper only to that River: which statue was heretofore found near Saint Ste phens Church, and being thence conveighed into those gardens, is there presented to publique view for that general approbation of excellency which is meritoriously given it.
On the walls of the said Belvedere are moreover 12 several deformed Creatures set up, which are carved out of the politest Marble: And in certain Corners and Nooks stands a shape of Antinoo, cut in the whitest Marble of fingular Artifice and in this form by the command of Adrian the Emperour, who deputed divine sacerdotal honours with Temples, whose memory alsothat he might perpetuate, he built a City in AEgypt calling it from his name Antinopoli, On the right hand is the River Arno in the shape of a Man lying along, diffusing water from his Tomb, with Cleopatra on his left hand leaning on her [Page 179] right hand. In the second Armory stands Venus Ericina prepared to come out of a Bath. In the third is the same Venus playing with Cupid and this Inscription. ‘Veneri Foelici Sacrum Salustia Helpis D. D.’
Near it is a Bacchus armeless, and that Trunk of Hercules, pronounced by Michael Angelo, to be the most compleat statue of Rome, the name of Apollo as sculptor is in scribed on it, as also two other Carasses the one of a Lady the other of Mercury, and an Arch of Marble, wherein is figured the Chase of Meleager found in the Vatican Vineyard, appertaining to his Sanctity.
In the fourth Armory in the Cants stands a statue of the Emperor Commodus in the habit and shape of Hercules, holding a Child on his Arm, whose humour was to be so figured and called as historians report. In the fifth Apollo Pitheo, with a Serpent at his feet, and a Carcase having a piece of Cloth upon one Arm, a Bow and Arrows in his hand, and all over naked. In the sixth is Laocoon with his two Sons enveloped by two Dragons as Virgil writes the story, all of one Marble stone: This Piece was esteemed by Michael Angelo the Miracle of Sculpture: and before his time by Pliny who saies that, twas wrought by Agesanero Poliodoro, and Athenodoro the principal Sculptors of their times, and preserved in the Palace of Titus Vespasianus and found in his seaven Halls. Some space from which lies Cleopatra ready to give up the Ghost, of so exact workmanship and polite Marble, that underneath the Marble Garments which seem to lie over the whole body, the Limbs and shape of the person, do perfectly appear. In the same Palace and Gardens which are five, some in Terrace, others low, beside the aforenamed not a few nor mean Vessels and statues present themselves as gratefull Objects to the Visitants thereof: As to pass by others a Fountain made after a rustick manner, round which stand feigned Gods and Sea Monsters, very well represented: Together with the Images of Pope Paulus the 2 and the Emperor Charls the 5th. drawn by the hand of Michael Angelo, and a statue of one of the Curiatii, which is a fair one, and stands where the Switzers keep their Guard.
In the Armory, are Arms and all accomplishments for 35000. men horse and foot, and over the door of it is this Motto. ‘Urbanus VIII. Literis arma, Armis Literas.’
In the Constantine Hall, to pass over the other things which are infinite, are painted several picturs drawn by the principal Painters in all Ages, chiefly the▪ Battel fought at the Ponte Milvio, and the victory obtained there by Constantine, against Maxentius, the work of Raphael Stantio of Urbin.
In the Gallery Pope Gregory the 13th. for the benefit of the Popes to his great cost, caused all the Provinces Regions and Chief Cities of the whole World, to be artificially and exactly lymned annexing to each Province in a sweet style its Encomion.
This Pallace was begun by Nicholas the third, augmented by his successors, finished by Iulius the second & Leo the 10th. garnished and [Page 180] beautified with Pictures and other Ornaments, by Sixtus the 5th, and Clement the 8th. so that at this day it remains a stately Receptacle for his holiness, and a worthy object for all Forreigners.
Of the Church of Saint Peter, on the VATICANO
THis hath meritoriously its place among the seaven Principal and the Library Churches of Rome, and will therefore require breifer account here, Tis the most famous and splendid of Rome. On that part which is ascended by steps, is a Pillar erected, compassed about with Iron barrs, and this inscription on it. ‘Haec est illa Columna, in qua Dominus noster Iesus Christus apodiatus, dum pop [...]lo praedicabat, & Deo Patri in Templo preceseffundebat, adhaerendo stabat, quae una cum aliis undecim hîc circumstantibus de Salomonis templo in triumphum hujus Basilicae hîc locata fuit.’
In this Temple is likewise preserved the head of Saint Andrew the Apostle, and the spear which was run into the side of our Saviour, when he hung upon the Cross: It was sent as a gratefull present to Pope Innocent the 8th. by the Turkish Emperour: Here also is the Porta Sancta, which is never opened but in the yeer of Iubile, and that finished is shut again. Which shall suffice to avoid Repetition.
To the Church of Saint Peter is joyned the little Church of Santa Petronilla, formerl [...] a Temple of Apollo, as that of Santa Maria della febre was of Mars. in the Piazza of Saint Peter stands the Obelisk translated thither from the Circ of Nero in the yeer 1586. at the Instance and cost o [...] Sixtus the 5th. where it lay in neglectfull obscu rity, in old times called the Obelisk of Caesar, and under it were then laid the Ashes of Iulius Caesar; Dominico Fontana was the Engineer. Its heighth is 170 foot besides the Basis which is 37 foot more on the bottom tis 12 foot broad and at top 8. It weighs without the Basis 956148. pound the Instruments prepared for its removall and erecting weighed 1031824. pound. The Removal of it we must needs conclude so admirable as to deserve a place among the great wonders of the Antients, if we despise it not (as is usual) for that twas modern.
The Circ and Naumachia, the place for sea battails of Nero were near herunto, where they made their sportive recreations in barques upon the water, and cruelly cast those that confessed the name of Christ, to be devoured by wilde beasts.
The Borgo hath five gates, to wit, L'Elia at the Castle Saint Angelo, That of Saint Peter under the Popes Gardens, La Pertusa on the highest [Page 181] part of the hill. La Vacina, at the Palace of the Cesis, and the Trionfale, now called of Santo spirito, near which Bourbon received à shot which occasioned his death, and the surrender of Rome to the Emperor Charls the 5th.
The Hospital of San Spirito, was first instituted by Innocent the 3d. afterwards aggrandized by Sixtus the 4th, In it they govern with no less honour than love the foreign Infirm persons: so that many rich Men disdain not to retire themselves thither for the government of the sick and infirm, and thereto imploy their skill and time though at their own charges, not having their own proper houses in Rome.
Of the Hill Gianicolo, now called Montorio.
THe Hill Ianiculus is now called Montorio quasi mons aureus, or the goulden Mount: near it lies the Circ of Iulius Caesar, where appear some fragments of the Sepulchre of Numa Pompilius, which yet demonstrate 'twas no great Fabrick: a certain assurance, that Ambition had not then in those times any great place in Rome.
Montorio is so called for the sparkling of the sand there; Where stands a Church of Saint Peter, and a round Fabrick wrought excellently Dorick wise, the design of Bramante. At the high Altar of the said Church is a Marble stone whereon Christ was figured by Raphael of Urbin. On the right hand at the entrance into the Church Christ is rarely painted upon the Wall being whipt, by Bastiano the Venetian called del Piombo. Here stands the Tombe which Iulius the third caused to be built for himself then living, where for all that he had not the happiness to lye (dead) but was buried in a mean place in the Vatican.
The Gate of Saint Pancratio, was formerly called Aureliana, or Settimiana, for that it was repaired by Septimius Severus, who near it erected an Altar and certain Baths: without this gate you see an Aqueduct not very high, through which ran the waters of the Lake Alsetino, into the Baths of Severus, of Filippus, and into the Naumachia, the place for Sea Fights of Augustus.
Where now stands the Temple of Santa Maria in Transtevere, was formerly a Taberna Meritoria, or a Locanda as they now term it being a place for letting out Chambers: There stood also a Temple of AEsculapius, for the deceased, to whom (because they believed him a God alwaies regarding and assisting to their healths) the infirm had recourse, and sacrificed.
The Naumachia, was a place purposely set apart for the preparing all things necessary for Naval fights. This place is at present called à Ripà, in Rome, where the Vessels are steered by Ostia into the City; besides in antient time in the Naumachia, they o [...]ten presented certain Warlike and Naval sports for the Solace of the Princes and multitude.
The Ponte Aurelio, or Gianicolo conjoins the part Transteverina, or beyond the Tyber to the City, but being broken in the civil War 'twas afterwards called Ponte Rotto: At last being r [...]edisied by Sixtus the 4th. to [Page 182] that magnificence it now appears in, it took the name of Ponte Sixto. In the midst of the Naumachia rise the reliques of the Ponte Sublicio, upon which Horatius alone in the War against the Tuscans sustained the assaults of the Enemies till such time as the Romans could break down the said Bridge near the Gate, by which means the Enemies were obstructed in their hoped for entrance into the City. AEmilius Lepidus caused it a [...]terwards to be built of stone: From a top this Bridge the Emperour Heliogabulus the Monster of Nature and Mankind having a stone hung abont his Neck, was cast down into the Tyber.
Near hereunto ly the Fields Mutii, given to Mutius Scaevola, by the publick, for the noble Act he performed in the presence of Porsenna King of the Tuscans.
At the Port of Ripa, Leon the 4th. built two Towers to hinder the inroads of the Sarazens, who often by Ostia run up the Tyber. Then Borgo was called Citta Leonina; Alexander the 4th. named it Borgia, and added to it good increase of all things.
L'Isola Tiberina, is believed to have rise and beginning in the time of Tarquin the proud, tis not very b [...]oad but a quarter of a mile long and was consecrated to AEsculapius: In it is at this day a Church dedicated to San Bartolomeo, At the point of the Island you may see the form of that Ship, wherein the Serpent Epidaurus was conveighed into the City, which form was sometime since exposed to view by the inundation of the Tyber.
In the gardens of Cardinal Farneze [...], beyond the Tyber are divers Venuses of the whitest Marble, and several Pyles, on which are figured Men, Lyons, Women, the nine Muses, Satyrs and other things, and a broken pillar with a Greek inscription very memorable which was brought from Tivoli.
The Bridge Cescio or Esquilino conjoines the part beyond the Tyber to the Island; twas built by Valentianus and Valens Emperors, and is now called Ponte Saint Bartolomeo from that Church which stands in the Island contiguous with it. In the same Island stands the Church of San Giovanni Battista, which formerly was the Temple of Iupiter, and in the uppermost part of it yet appear the ruines of a Temple of Faunus, which was reduced to that sad condition by the Inundation of the River.
The Bridge Fabricio, called also Tarpeio, connexeth the Island with the City, passing through the midst of Marcellus his Theatre, tis at this time called Ponte dài quatro capi, from certain statues the [...]e reared, each of which hath four faces and heads.
The Theatre of Marcellus was built by Augustus Caesar, at the Bridge Fabricio, in honour of Marcellus the Son of his Sister Octavia,) capacious for eighty thousand persons) to which structure that she might add the more lustre as in remembrance of her said Son Marcellus, the said Octavia complea ted a most admirable & well furnished Library of Books of all sorts and sciences. This Theatre the House of Saevelli at present possess: The said Augustus raised also the Banqueting house called Octavio in honour of his said Sister Octavia, part whereof yet is on foot, in the midst of the said Theatre, where are some shops of Goldsmiths now, but was formerly much more beautified by many rare statues, as among others with a Satyr, the work of Prasitelle, [Page 183] the nine Muses of Timarchide, and the Image of Iuno, now placed in the Mansion of Iulius the third in the Via Flaminia; Caesar Germanicus illustrated the said Banqueting House, with the addition of a stately Temple, dedicated to Speranza and Hope, towards the Piaza Montanara, to which was conjoined the Temple of Aurora, much renowned among the Antients the very Footsteps whereof time and misfortune have razed out.
The House of Savelli, (in the Theatre of Marcellus,) possess a most rare piece, being a Lyon cut in Marble, with three Men Armed and prepared to fight him, together with many other Marble Tablets: And a garden very delicious, wherein are several Pyles, whereon the Labours of Hercules are engraven, and divers Statues of Men and pieces of Mercury.
San Nicolo in Carcere, formerly was the Prison for the common people, but for that a Daughter expressed so much Piety to her Father there bound in chains as to nourish him many dayes with the milk from her own breasts, Attilia Gabrione, raised there a Temple dedicating it to Piety.
Santo Andrea in Mentuzza, was in old times a Temple consecrated to Iuno Matura by Cornelius the Consul, under the Campidoglio.
You may see the broken Bridge of Santa Maria Transteverina, or AEgittiaca, so named from the Neighbouring Church; which was formerly called Ponte Senatorio and Palatino, for that the Senators passed over that Bridge in religious manner to the Ianicolo, to consult the Books of the Sybills, and thence returned to the Court of the Emperours.
The House of Pilat placed near the Ponte Senatorio fabulously by the Vulgar, if we make a narrower inspection, and contemplate the most high ruine there appearing, must needs have been the Sudatoria Laconica, or hot Baths. The Foro Olitorio, is the Piazza Montonora, where Evander erected an Altar in honour of Nicostrata Carmenta his mother.
The Church of Sancta Maria AEgittiaca, formerly the Temple of Fortuna Virilis, remains almost intire and unblemished having a long row of high Pillars on both sides. Some report it to have been consecrated to Pudicitia Matronalis, and that therein was the Bucca Veritatis, which is esteemed a fabulous story, and that ample round porphyr stone standing before the Greek Schools, which they say was the Bucca veritatis, conld be applyed to no other use then for a Chanel or receipt of waters, as in divers other stones of the like form up and down the City used to the like occasions is most plainly apparent.
In the house of the Serlupi in the Fishstreet, they shew a most compleat piece, being the head of the Emperour Vespasian as big as a Gyants, cut in white Marble.
In the next house appertaining to the Delfini, are the heads of Lucius Verus, and Marcus Aurelius, of Bacchus, of a Child laughing, and of six others with some Urns, and stones with remarkable inscriptions.
Of the place where the Asylum, or sanctuary for refuge stood, there is no Certainty because some place it in this part, others in the [Page 184] Campidoglio, wherefore no ampler account can be given of it, upon a certain foundation.
San Stephano Rotondo, which denomination it borrowed from the form of the Fabrick, stands by Santa Maria AEgittiaca, 'twas built by Numa Pompilius, and consecrated to Vesta: tis sustained on every part by Corinthian Pillars, aud receaves the light from the top, as doth the Pantheon.
La Rupe Tarpeia, lies on the utmost part of the Campidoglio, being a vast proecipice, opposite to the Church Santa Maria Egittiaca, Manlius Capitolinus being found guilty of an intention to Master Rome and become its Tyrant, was at the comand of the Senate praecipitated from this Rock. Some say, that Ovids house stood among those ruins which are near the Church Santa Maria della Consolatione, others that it was in Burgo Georgio, near the Porta Carmentale, at the Foot of the Capitol, where also Valerius Amerinus dwelt, and Opis and Saturnus had Temples.
The Temple of Vesta built by Romulus between the Capitolinum and the Palatinum, stood where now is the Church dalle Gratie or dalle Consolatione, wherein the Vestal Virgins kept the holy and perpetual Fire, and the Palladium, with the Domestick houshold Gods brought by AEneas, from Troy into Italy, but the said Temple being burning, the Palladium which was a wooden Image of Pallas with rolling eyes was snatched out of the Fire and translated into Velia, where now is Santa Andrea in Palata.
The Foro Boario, took its name either for that there they sold their Bulls, or because Evander having received the Bulls of Gerion consecrated that place for perpetual remembrance of that Victory, Adjacent to the Temple of Saint George, in Velabro stands a fair Arch all of Marble, beautified with excellent figures of Sacrifices, erected in former times by the Goldsmiths and Merchants in honour of the Emperors, Septimius Severus, and Marcus Aurelius. And contiguous with this Arch stood the Temple of Janus Quadrifrons: four squared and in every front a large Gate, and 12. Nooks, wherein tis believed they set up twelve statues, representing 12 Months. The Romans sacrificed to Janus as Prince or President of the sacrifices, calling him also Vertumnus. Many Temples in Rome were dedicated to this God, among which that chiefly flourished which Numa built at the Porta Carmentale near the Theatre of Marcellus which had two Gates only, and they stood alwaies open in time of warr, and shut in times of Peace. Historians report these Gates to be three times only lockt up: The first by Numa the Founder, the second by Titus Manlius the Consul. The third by Augustus Caesar, when he had wholly overcome M. Antonius: Suetonius reports that twas a fourth time shut by Nero, which is proved by certain Coynes of the said Emperor yet extant, with these words on the one side. Pace Populo Romano Ubique, Porta Janum Clausit: Now this Temple is consecrated to Santa Catherina.
Il Velabro, where stands Santo Georgio in Velabro, was so denominated for this cause: When the Tyber overflowed and covered the face of the Earth, they could not pass into the Aventinum, from one bank to the other unless in Boats, for their passage wherein they payed a certain piece of money, which in Latin signifies a Booth, those boats being covered over.
[Page] Santa Maria in Cosmodin, is called Schola Graeca, perhaps for that in former times twas enjoyed by Greeks. They fable, that here Saint Augustin taught, and that here was another Bucca Veritatis. Annexed to this Church towards the Tyber stood a Temple of Hercules Victor, the reliques whereof shew its form to have been round, twas destroyed by Pope Sixtus the fourth. They report that Flyes never entred into this Temple, Hercules by Prayer to Myagrum the God of Flyes, having obtained this favour, for that being about to sacrifice to Jupiter, the Flyes molested the sacrifice: Nor Doggs, Because the same Hercules affixed his Club to the Door of the Temple, which so terrified the Doggs (it having an innate Virtue to fright Doggs) that they durst not approach the Gates: Neither Women Servants or made Free could assist to the holy Exercises in this Temple, And only freemen and the Sons of Freemen had admission thereunto.
The Great Altar erected by Hercules stood near the Schola Graeca, and by it AEmilius built the Temple of Pudicitia Patritia, wherein when Virginia entred, being herself noble but the Wife of a Plebeian, she was cast out by the other Matrons, whereat being offended she raised another Temple in Borgo Longo, to Pudicitia Plebeia, which caused a great Feud in the Patritian Matrons, but neither of the one nor the other does any footsteps now remain.
Monte Aventino. hath been ever counted infamous and inauspicious, for the contest there happening between Romulus and Remus wherein the last was slain. Ancus Martius the 4th. King of the Romans granted it to the Sabines for their habitation, but others write that it began to be inhabited only in the daies of Claudius the Emperor: tis now called by its old name Mons Aventinus.
The Church of Santa Sabina, standing on the top of the Aventino antiently dedicated to Diana, was built by Ancus Martius, or as others say by Servius Tullius. Servius the sixth King of the Romans was Son of a Servant or slave, wherefore he commanded that there every year on the 13th. of August a solemn Feast should be kept for the Slaves, on which day of their solemnity their Masters should not command them. Here Honorius the 4th. dwelt, and Pius the fifth erected there some stately Fabricks, to which Girolamo Bernerio called the Cardinal of Ascoli, added others with a Chappel. This Cardinal was of the Order of the preaching Fryers, and for that cause hath been a loving Patron to that Order.
The Church of Santa Maria dell'Aventino, was a Temple consecrated to Dea Bona, not far from which stood the House of Julius Caesar: whence Calphurnia, the wife of Caesar proceeded among the other Matrons to the said Temple to the Nocturnal duties performed to the said Goddess, when Clodius inamoured of her, habiting himself in the garment of a Woman, conveighed himself in amongst them, all men being prohibited admission to those duties: Who being no less ignorant of the place than of the Ceremonies, wandred too and fro in search of his Friend Calphurnia, and by that means was discovered by a certain Maid. Upon the Aventino, Hercules Victor had a Temple, which is now called the Church of Santi Alexii.
The Hott Houses or Bathes which stood upon the AVENTINO.
THe Hot houses or Bathes of Decius the Emperour called Deciane, were near Santa prisca, formerly a Temple of Hercules, whereof as of the ensuing great ruines yet remain: Those called Variane stood near Saint Alexius. And those of Trajan, with his Palace on the farthest part of the Aventino in the Vineyard of Francisci Albertini, a Roman Citizen.
The Remoria, yet retains its antient name. 'Twas held an inauspicious place because in the bloud of Remus was unhappily begun the City: who was there slain by a wicked man with a Pickax at the command of Romulus, and interred in the same place. the Via Remoria extends it self from the Circo Maximo over the top of the Aventino just to that Fabrick of Pope Paul the 3d. wherewith he fortified the City.
Here stands the Sepulchre of Cacus, of whom they make mention in the Fables of Hercules, which is a sharp broken stone in the midst of the Church Santa Maria Aventina, where also was antiently a Temple of Hercules.
At this Praecipice, were the Furcae Gemoniae, to which Malefactors were dragged with Iron hooks, and there inhumanely slain, hither the Emperour Vitellius, with an Iron hook fixed under his Chin, and his Cloths torn of to his Buttocks was dragged, and slain by the command of Vespasian, for having put to death Sabinus, Vespasians Brother.
The Porta Trigemina though very antient, remains yet almost entire at the Foot of the Aventino near the Tyber in the Vineyard, to which the Baths of Trajan are annexed.
This Gate was called Trigemina, from the three twin Brothers, called Horatii, who marched out at that Gate, when they went to fight for the Liberty of their Countrey, against the three Brothers Curatii Albani, which Albani being slain with two of the twin Brothers Horatii, the third returned triumphant.
The Dioclesian Granaries of the Roman people were repaired and augmented by Dioclesian the Emperor, from whom they took their name. They stood between the Tyber and the Monte Testaceo, they consisted of 150 several apartments, and their ruines appear like a [...] in the Vineyard of Julio Cesarino a Roman.
Monte Testaceo stands near them, which was raised by the pieces of Potters Vessels, there cast by the Potters whose streets were there, which place was assigned for that use that they might not throw them into the Tyber, for fear of stopping the current and diverting the stream to their greater damage, nor cast them into the Fields to obstruct the fertility thereof. Whence it grew to the heigth of [Page 201] 160 foot and two miles in compass Some, (but foolishly,) call it Monte diogni Terra, ridiculously fabling their conjectures, that this Mount was raised by the Vessels of several Nations wherein they brought their Tributes to Rome, which Vessels they say they were commanded to cast in that place in perpetual remembrance of that their subjection. In old time the Circus Olimpicus comprehended all that space which the Monte Testaceo, takes up now
The Pyramid of C. Cestius Septemvirs or the seventh of the Epicures or gluttons, remains yet entire neare the Porta Ostiense, within the City Walls, being built with white Marble, in great square stones and although the Inscription names only C. Cestius, yet tis believed to have been the common burying place of all the Septemviri Epuloni whose charge was to see that the Feasts, the Banquets, the solemnities, and sacrifices of the Gods were strictly observed.
La Porta Ostiense, (now named di San Paulo) was built by Ancus Martins, and called Ostiense, because through it lies the way to Ostia. Without which gate stands the Church dedicated to Sancto Paulo a most splendid Church, one of the seaven principal of Rome, and much frequented by the people. Therein stand four rankes of vast Marble Collumnes which support it. They are excellently wrought in Dorick, Ionick, Attick, and Corinthian works, nor is there any Church in Rome Replenisht with so many Pillars, nor garnished with so polite and exquisite Marble stones, which were translated from the two Porta's Ostienses The one of Nero, the other of Anto [...]inus. Somewhat beyond which stands another Church, called the Tre Fontane, An antient Temple before whose portal rise many pretious Pillars of Porphyr stone, which shine with various Colours: within are shewed three sources of Fountains, whose waters are esteemed holy and salutiferous for many infirmities, they believe, these Fountains to spring miraculously at and ever since the time that Saino Pauls head was cut off by the command of Nero the Emperour in that place.
The Visitation of the aforenamed particulars, being exactly performed will be sufficient for the first day.
The second dayes Journey in perusing the noted things of ROME.
ENtring from Borgo into the City by the Bridge Castello, you meet a way which divides it self in two, on the right hand towards the Tyber goes the Strada Julia, in which the house of the Cevali stands worthy a view, and in the other street near the Ba [...]chi, is the house of the Cardinal Sforza, replenisht with Antiquities, noble Pictures, and a Library of Greek Manuscripts.
Alla Pace in the house of [...]ancellotto Lancellotti, a Gentleman, are many rare antiquities. [Page 184] At the end of the Parione are the ample houses Arianae, in whose Angle is seated That Statue of Pasquin, the most famous of all that City yea of all the World. This some suppose to be made for Hercules, others for Alexander the great: but there is no certainty of either, though it appear the workemankip of some rare Artist.
In former times they were wont to load this Image with Libels aagainst the Princes, Cardinals and famous Men, and noble Matrons and sometimes against the Pope: but now left off because of the severe prohibitions, since when though they dare not fix them to the Pasquino, yet still they vent their reproofs and scandals under some other specious pretence, publishing them some other way by the name of Pasquinata. Antonio Tibaldeo a Ferrarian, being no less learned than Venerable, reports this story of this statue: That there was in Rome a certain Taylour well known in his trade and good at his occupation, called Pasquino, whose shop stood in this street: this man was well customed by Prelates, Courtezans and other people, who resorted to him for their Rayments, This Taylor employed great number of Journeymen, who like vile persons spent all the day their tongues freely speaking ill of this & that person not sparing any, taking occasion from what they observed in those persons which resorted to their shop; the constant custome of slandering in that shop made it become ridiculous even to the persons offended, esteeming those rascals unworthy of any credit, and so no other regard was had to it. Whence it came to pass afterwards, that if any person would defame another he did it under covert of Master Pasquino, saying he had heard say so in his shop, which relation caused all the Interessed persons in that reproach, not to make any more account of it. This reverent gentleman Pasquino being dead, it happened that in paving the street, this statue was found half buried and broken near his shop, which because twas incomodious for the passage to leave it there, they erected just at the shop of Master Pasquino▪ whence the back-biters (taking a good occasion) reported that Master Pasquino, was returned again and not having courage enough to own the abuses they put upon others, they used to fasten their Scrolls to that statue: presuming, that as twas lawfull for Mar co pasquino to speak any thing, so by means of this statue they might scandalize others with such things, as in the light and bare faced they durst not own. This Custome continued long till at last twas prohibited with severe penalties.
Near hereto is the great Pallace of the Chancery, built by the Travertini, in a square form with the stones translated from the Amphitheater of Titus Vespasianus, which was called Coliseum, which Theatre the Popes would not permit to be wholly destroyed, but left some part in its first Lustre, that by it might appear the splendour of the whole, as a testimony of the magnificence of the Roman Empire. In it stands one great Image of Bacchus, wrought by Michael Angelo Bonarota, at his first arrival at Rome, when he sought to depress the Fame of Raphael Sanctius of Urbin, which he brought in feriour to his own reputation by his Art and policy. Two other great statues one of Ceres, and the other of Opes as is believed. And on the upper part are fixed certain heads, as of Antonius Pius, Septimius Severus, Titus, Domitianus Augustus, and Geta the Emperours, of a Sabin [Page 189] Woman. of Pyrrhus King of the Epirots of Cupid and a Sword Player.
Thence not far distant stands the Piazza del Duca, wherein is the fairest Pallace in Rome, built with excessive cost by Pope Paul the 3d a Farnezian, It abounds with so many antiquities that to speak distinctly of them, would fill up a volume: we will therefore pass briefly over them, as now they remain, many things having been changed in later times.
For the Architecture tis enough to say Michael Angelo Bonarota, had a chief part therein, and for the Materials, better could not be had then were employed in it, which were brought from the Amphitheatre: As to the statues,
Two of Hercules stand in the Court, famous for their workmanship and antiquity, the lesser whereof is most commended; One of Jupiter Tonante, with two immense sword players, the one having the Scabbard of his sword hanging at his shoulder, and with his right foot kicks the Target, the murrion, and the ground, the other holds behind him a boy dead in his hand: But that which surpasseth all statues is the Tauro Farnese, a Bull with five persons bigger than the natural, cut to wonder, out of one stone by Apollonius and Tauriscus of Rhodes, whence twas conveighed and placed in Antoninus his Bath where about one hundred years since twas dugg up as entire as if made but yesterday, and now stands in this Pallace astonishing all that behold it.
In the ascent on the stayers, you see one statue of the Tyber, another of Oceanus, and at the top of two barbarous prisoners in their old habits.
In the Rooms above, who delights in Pictures and Sculpture will meet enough to occupy his whole fancy. As the Pictures of Francesco Salviati, and Tadeo Zucchero, both which are much applauded, drawn as if they were taking the fresh ayr: And in a Gallery which is as noble as well painted by the Brothers Carazzi Bolonia, painters of great Fame, you will find many antient heads of signal persons as of Lysia, Euripides, Solon, Socrates, Diogenes, Genone, Possidonio, and Seneca, with the noble statues of Ganimede, Antinoo, of Bacchus, some fair Vessels, and the statues of Meleager, which deserves a name by it self for its great price, being esteemed worth five thousand Crowns then which no statue in Rome is more entire. No People under the Sun give so great prices for statues as the Romans: all which are so studious of those kind of Ornaments, that in acquiring them, they emulously strive which shall exceed in cost or curiosity. In one Chamber they shew the Duke Alexander of glorious memory, having under his feet the River Scalda or Scelda, with Flanders kneeling before him, and behind Victory crowning him, all which statues are cut out of one Marble stone, bigger than the Life. There also are three doggs cast rarely in Brass. The Bibliotheque of this Pallace, the Meddals and carved Toyes, are most famous things, but the Pictures of Raphael, and Titian are incomparable, nor are the Limnings lesse admirable▪
Opposite to the Farnesi live the heirs of Monsignior d'Acquigno, in whose house are divers inscriptions, an Adonis, a Venus of four thousand Crowns price, a Diana begirt with a Quiver of Arrowes a Bow in [Page 190] her hand like a huntress, and a statue of Bon Evento holding a looking glasse in the right hand, and in the left a Garland of Ears of Corn an absolute Piece, wrought by Praxitelis.
Adjacent to the Campo di Fiore, stands the Palace of the Cardinal Capo di Ferro, much less than the Farnesian Pallace, but in splendor and Architecture no whit inferiour. In the Frontispiece is painted the spring time: The President of the spring is Venus, (which was drawn to the similitude of the Body of Livia Columna, a most beautiful Princess) & whatever is there represented is amorous: The Complexion of the men is sanguine, and all are marked with the Element of Ayr. So in the other fronts, are expressed the complexions Choller, Melancholy, and Phlegme, the Elements Fire, Water, and Earth, the seasons Summer, Autumne, and Winter, and the Praesiding Gods, Mars, Saturn, and Janus, which are most absolutely performed, and were the work of Michael Angelo, with whom this Cardinal contracted a most intimate Friendship; and being no less liberal than Jngenious obtained of him, what ever so rare an Artist could possibly invent, among the rest a secret conclave wherein many things are exprest with the highest Art and perfection.
The house of the Orsini, in the Campo di Fiore, which was raised out of the ruines of the Pompeyan Theatre, is embellisht with many good statues in the Courts.
The Temple of Saint Angelo in Pescaria, was formerly of Juno Regina, which being burnt, was restored by Septimius Severus and Marcus Aurelius the Emperors, as the old Title there to be read verifies: near which are some of the Pillars taken from the Portico of Septimius Severus dedicated to Mercury.
At the Tower Citrangole, stands the house of the heirs of Gentile Delfino, which Gentleman had more meddals than any other Person in Rome, and his Garden filled with inscriptions: In them stands a Statue of Canopo placed in the form of a Water Pott, before whose breast they have preposed a Tablet filled with Hierogliphick letters, by which tis believed the secret Mysteries of the Sacrifices are delivered: In Parione at the house of the Maximi may be seen a Colossus, which vulgarly is thought to be the statue of Pyrrhus King of the Epirots armed, bought a long time since by the Maximi of Angelo for two thousand Crowns as also a Marble head of Julius Caesar, with many other things worthy consideration.
In the house of the Leni alla Ciambella, are many noble statues lately brought thither from the Porta di S. Bastiano, to wit an Adonis, a Venus, a Satyr, and many excellent heads, where in an old Pile was found an entire purple Garment with some rings and other notable things. Near which stands the house of Cardinal Paravicino, a Signor of noble Qualities, who much delights in Pictures, whereof and those good too he hath not a few. Contiguous with which stands the house of the Vallei, wherein was erected a square Marble stone, with a Solar Horoscope, and the Zodiack signes, where the dayes and howers of every Moneth were denoted, and whatever the Antients were wont to observe as well in the sacrifices of the Gods, as in the Countrey affairs, as fully as our Calenders now express them: but this with divers other Rarities, by the instability of its Patrons, were amoved, and such as they left remaining (for what reason we guess not) obscured. [Page 191] On the Ascent of the Campidoglio dwels il Signor Lelio Pasqualino, a Canon of Santa Maria Maggiore, a Gentleman of polite learning, and exquisite manners, where the studious of Antiquities are freely admitted to glutt themselves with the most curious things in Rome, as select Meddals, rare carved works, Implements, and Habiliments of Antiquity in great number. In summ in his house are a Treasure of those things, and he hath observed in this kind more than a man can possibly behold in one day: if he be resolved to publish his observations for the pnblick good of the Ingeniosi, tis certain that a pure and naked index of the Antiquities which he hath collected, would alone advance the studious of good Letters no less in sacred then Profane Learning.
On the left hand of the Campidoglio, raises it self a Temple and the Monastery of the Franciscans called Araceli, to which they ascend by 124 marble steps distinguished into five degrees: The Temple is supported by two ranks of Marble Pillars on both sides, then which the world affords not a more sumptuous, the Vatican set apart: This Temple in old time was dedicated to Jovi Feretrio by Romulus after the Sabyn warr, because in that place Jupiter gave assistance to the King then oppressed with the violence of his Enemies. On the left hand upon the third Pillar is engraven these words A Cubiculo Augustorum, and in other places of the Church, are two statues of Constantine and Maximinian, and at the two horses of Castori set at the top of the steps, is represented a fair prospective from the entrance to the inward part.
In the Piazza of the Campidoglio, stands a great statue of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, or as others think of Lucius Verus, of Septimius, of Metellus on horseback, twas transferred hither from San Gio Laterano, by order of Pope Paul the third a Farnesian.
Near the Pallace rise great statues of Rivers, to wit of the Nyle, with a Sphinx under it, of the Tygre, with a Tyger near, both having their heads bedecked with flowers brought from the Rivers, and another great statue, by some thought to represent the Rhene a River of Germany, by others to be an Image of Jupiter Panarius, because the Romans freed themselves from the siege of the French by casting bread into their Tents: This Statue is called Marforio, and by means of it they use to answer to the slaunders of Pasquino.
Upon a collateral stayer. Case stands a Columne called Milliaria upon which are engraven two inscriptions the one of Vespasian the other of Nero Emperours.
In the Pallazzo dei Conservatori are many things worth a view, among others alyonholding a horse with his teeth, whose miraculous workmanship Mic. Angelo was wont to cry up to the skies. Near it appears a most antient Tombe at the ascent upon the steps, and a Pillar pointed with Iron with its inscription, (according to the manner of those antient times) of C. Duilio, in honour of whom (having overthrown the Carthaginians) this was erected: Hereof many Authors make mention. Beyond which are certain tablets engraven, with the Triumph of Aurelius, and a sacrifice made by him, and at the entrance of the Gate are carved in Marble the Measures or scannings of the Greek and Roman Foot: by which you behold an old statue believed [Page 192] falsly of Marius in a gown. In the hall of the Conservatori stands a Hercules in brass guilt, with his Club in the right hand, and one of the Hesperian apples in the left, this was found in the Foro Boario in the ruines of the Ara Maxima, A Satyr of Marble with the legs of a Goat bound to a Tree: a Statue of Brass upon a Marble Pillar of Juno sitting picking a thorn out of her foot. With another figure of brass of a wolfe, giving suck to Romulus and Remus. This was formerly kept in the Cornicio, near the Ruminale, whence twas first, translated to S Giovanni Laterano, and thence to the Campidoglio: Both these Figures having a general applause from all beholders.
Being entred into the Hall of the said Pallace, you behold the lofty seats (so famous through the world) of the Magistrates and the Roman Triumphs: These were translated hither from the Court where they were found by Commission of Paul the 3d. that they might be viwed and considered: Upon the subject of those seats now somewhat decayed and broken through Age, Cardinal Michele Silvio composed certain smooth verses there to be read, Where also you find an honourable memorial in marble of the deeds of the most illustrious Alexander Farnese, Son of Ottavio Duke of Parma, whose statue stands in the same place, as also that of M Antonio Colonna, who together with Giovanni d'Austria, obtained a glorious victory on the Sea against the Turks in the Cursolari: Together with some great statues of Popes, in a sitting posture as twere giving Benediction to the People as of Leo the 10th. Gregory the 13th. Sixtus the 5th. all well deservers of the Christian Republique; and other things giving delight to the Spectator.
In the passage from the Campidoglio, to the Rupe Tarpeia in view of the Piazza Montanara, stood the Temple of Jovis Optimi Maximi, which was the largest Temple of Rome, built by Tarquinius Priscus, and adorned & inriched by Tarquinius Superbus, with the expence of forty thousand pound of Silver.
The Descent from the Campidoglio or, Capitoll.
FRom the Campidoglio or Capitol, you go down into the Foro Romano, which is the space of ground from the Arch of Septimius to the Church of Santa Maria Nuova. At the foot of the Campidoglio, you find the Triumphal Arch of L. Septimius Severus entire, saving that some part is under ground, the Earth being raised by vast ruines of structures: it hath Inscriptions on both sides, with the Warlike Expeditions made by that Emperor by Sea and Land. Here Camillus built a Temple & dedicated it to the Goddess Concordia, when he had reconciled the Common people to the Senate, whose also was that of Juno Moneta, ascended by one hundred steps: 'Twas called Junone Moneta, because it praemonished, and advised Romans, [Page 193] with an intelligible voice, that the Galli Senones, were coming upon them. Those eight Collumnes there now being, on whose Capitols are inscribed these words Senatus Populusque Romanus incendio consumptum, reflituit; are the Reliques of the said Temple of Concordia, wherein the Senate frequently assembled, and made their oraisons.
On the left part of the descent from the Campidoglio, lies the place called Sancto Pietro in Carcere, consecrated by his holiness San Silvestro to San Pietro, because he was there taken bound and imprisoned, where a Feast was wont heretofore to be solemnized the first day of August in remembrance of the Chains wherewith Saint Peter was bound which was translated afterwards to San Pietro in Vincula, in Monte Esquilie, the Prisons were first built there by Ancus Martius, to which Servius Tullius annexed the Vaults or Sellers under ground called Tulliani Carceres, wherein (as Salust writes) those were strangled who had given in their names to Catalines conspiracy.
The Church of Santa Martina (in whose angle the Colossus of Marforii lies) was formerly consecrate to Mars Ultor the Revenger. Augustus built and dedicated it after the Philippensian Warr in Pharsalia: some say, That in this Church was the secret place where the Acts of the Senate were kept. In it is a Title made in the times of Theodosius and Honorius the Emperors.
Next unto it is the Church of Santo Adriano, antiently the Temple of Saturn, built or rather restored by Manutio Planco, being first dedicated by Minutio & Sempronio the Consuls: This was the Exchequer of Rome, wherein the publique Treasury was preserved as we read that in the time of Scipio Emilianus it had in it eleaven thousand pound weight of pure gold, and ninety two thousand pound weight of silver, beside an infinite quantity of coyned moneys. Here also the Tabulae Elephantinae were layed up, wherein the numbers of the 35 tribes of Rome, were recorded: as also the Military Ensignes, the Decrees of the Senate, the publick Acts, with the spoils of the Provinces and conquered Nations.
'Tis supposed that Santa Maria Liberatrice, was a Temple dedicated to Venus Generatrix, It stands at the Foot of the Palatine, those three hollow Pillars some believe to be those before the foot of the Ponte aureo of Caligula, which was supported by 80 Pillars, made with incredible cost, over which they passed from the Pallace to the Capitoll.
The Pillar at Santa Maria Liberatrice, is one of those upon which was placed the golden Statue by Domitian, near which stood the Statue of the River Rhene, now called Marforio and is in the Campidoglio, Erected by Domitian for that that Emperor triumphed over the Germans.
Near it was the Temple of Concord, with that of Julius Caesar on its right hand, and that of Paulus AEmilius on its left hand, whose structure cost nine hundred thousand Crowns.
Those high wals which are beheld at the Foot of the Palatine are part of the Rostri Nuovi, which were so called for that there they setled the Rostra or stemm of their Galleys: here now is the Vineyard of Cardinal Farnese. There Cicero frequently made his Orations [Page 194] there the Fathers assembled and made Laws, and there the head and hand of Cicero (which wrote his Philippick Orations) were fixed to a Spear by command of Antonius the Triumvir, whose dishonourable deeds are therein declaimed against. The Rostri Vecchie, were in the Corte Hostilia, near the place of the Council which touched the Church Santa Maria Nuova, which place is called Comitia as much as to say a place to retire themselves together in: for here the senate and People of Rome assembled to treat of the affairs of the the Common-Wealth: and there is built now the holy house of Sancta Maria de inferno.
The Temple of San Lorenzo in Miranda, stands in the ruines of the Temple of Faustina and of Antonio, where we find this Inscription Divo Antonino, & Divae Faustinae S. C. As also twelve fair Pillars, near which stood the Arch of Fabius, and the covering of the Palace▪ which was called Libone.
The Piazza of Julius Caesar, extended from the Temple Faustina to that of Santa Maria but at the Piazza of Augustus the Church of Santo Adriano, in Trefori, is conjoyned with it, And in that of Augustus, were certain Porticues and in them statues of illustrious Men set up by Augustus who lived in the house of Livia, in the Via Sacra. The Temple of Santi Cosmo and Damiano, was antiently dedicated to Castor and Pollux which some alledge without foundation to be the Temple of Romulus and Remus.
The Temple of Peace, begun by Clandius and finished by Vespasian, was most magnificent and stately, of whose most high structure some reliques yet remain not far from the Church of Santa Maria Nova, and one Pillar yet entire, the highest and biggest of all Rome In the gardens of Santa Maria Nova, appear yet two high round courses of two antient Temples of the Sun and Moon, which some will have to be of Isis & Serapis. There Tatius built a Temple to Vulcan, and in that quarter AEsculapius also had a Temple, and Concordia, built by Fulvius in anno 303. after the erecting of the Capitol: Out of which Temple of Concordia, tis thought Vespasian afterwards raised that of Peace, translating to it moreover many ornaments from the Temple of Solomon, after he had destroyed Jerusalem.
Not far distant from the Via sacra, stands the Marble Arch of Titus Vespasian, wherein are carved the pomp of the Triumph, and the spoyls brought from Jerusalem at the overthrow of the Jewes, as the Ark of the Covenant the Candlestick for the seaven Lights, The Table whereon they set the bread of the Proposition or shewbread The Table of the ten Commandements delivered by God to Moses, and the sacred Vessels all of pure gold, used in the sacrifices by the Hebrews, besides which the Triumphal Chariot of the Emperor is carved thereon with this Inscription.
The Foro or Court di Nerva is also called Transitorio, or the passage because through it they passed into the Foro Romano, and in that of Augusto, where stands the Arco di Noe, so called corruptly by the Vulgar [Page 195] stood the noble Picture di Nerva, where in Fret work are these words. Imperator Nerva Caesar Augustus Pont. Tib. Pont. II. [...]mp. II▪ Procoris. The Fragments of this Arch are yet extant between the Church Saint Basilio, & the Tower for the Militia. Near it riseth a certain square structure called by the vulgar Studiolo di Virgilio, & they ridiculously fable, That the Poet was hung out of it by a certain whore for a spectacle to the People one whole day. Which to revenge Virgil (Who studied the Magick Art) effected that the Fire in the whole City was extinguished, and all the people forced to give fire to their Candles and Lights at the flames which were raised for shaming of the Strumpets. This fable is painted every where but without an Author: Nor is it likely any such thing could happen to that great Vir gil, who for his continency was called Parthe nius. If any thing in this Fable be true I suppose twas writ of some other Virgil a Magician by whom the Neapolitanes speak also many things to have been performed: among others that by the Magick Art he hollowed the Mountain Posylipum and made it penetrable, the Sepulchre of Virgil is erected near this famous Cavern.
Near the Temple of Peace is that of the Santi Cosmo and Damiano, which was the Court of Romulus, where the Senate congregated when they had any important affair to consult about: It was wholly burnt, when they burned the body of Publius Claudius, slain by T. Annione Milone, with the Basilica Portia near it, which Marco Portio Catone the Censor reared a top of the house of Mevio. There was also another Court in Monte Celio, where now stands the Church consecrated to Santo Gregori.
MONTE PALATINO.
THis Hill was inhabited many yeers before the building of Rome and there when at its greatest splendour, did the Emperors and other, great Personages for a long time reside, but now tis overwhelmed with Ruines, and so great a Devastation, that tis the most uninhabited Place of Rome: besides its Desert uncouthness and Thorns, affording nothing of good more than a little Church of Saint Nicholo, some Cottages, and a Vineyard of Cardinal Farnese. Thereon of old stood these stately Temples following to wit, one dedicate to Vittoria built by C. Posthumius the AEdile, Another to Apollo, w ch being destroyed, was afterwards restored by Augustus Caesar, to greaer beauty, with the addition of that Porticue, whose reliques yet remain more entire than any other in Rome, a third to the Penati brought thither by AEneas, and honoured with much reverence:
Others to the Gods Lari, to Faith, to Jove Victorius, to Heliogabalus, to Orco and many other Gods, of whose Temples not any imaginable Vestigia are now extant: And those magnificent Palaces of the Coesars, Tarquinius Priscus the King, of Cicero who bought his Pallace of Crassus for 50 thousand Crowns: of Marcus Flaccus which stood neer that which was bought by Cicero, whereof Q. Catullus made a great Lodge.
That part of the Palatino which lies towards the Arch of T. Vespasian, is called Germano, from the Twyn Brothers Romulus and Remus, [Page 196] there brought up by Faustulus the Shepheard whose habitation was in that place: the space from thence to the Arch of Constantine the Great was called Vela, for that there the Shepheards dwelt, whose custome was to fleece or pluck the Wool from off the sheep (whence they were called in Latin Vellera, Fleeces of Wool) before the way of shearing was invented.
Towards Santa Maria Nova, Scaurus had a noble Palace with an Open gallery supported with Pillars forty foot high without the bases or capitol.
The great Palace Gregostaci, was so denominated, for that there they usually entertained the Embassadors of divers Nations: Here Quintus Flaminius dedicated a statue to Concordia, when he had reconciled the People to the Senate, or rather the Senate to the People. The Church Sant' Andrea, in Pallaria, is the old Temple, wherein the Palladium and Penati, which AEneas brought with him from Troy into Italy were at first placed, but afterwards transported into the Temple of Vesta, and the charge of them committed to the Vestal Virgins. Near it stood the house of Valerius Publicola, which for some suspicion raised among the People, they levelled with the ground in one night.
On that part of the Palatine towards Monte Celio, stood a Temple of Cibele called also Dindimene and Ope, The Image of which Goddess was translated from Ida a Place in Phrygia to Rome, and reverenced with great devotion. On that part respecting the Aventino, was the house wherein Augustus Caesar was born, whose ruins yet arise to a vast altitude: to which was adjoyned a Temple of Apollo, upon whose top was fixed a golden Chariot of the Sun, of which some fragments are yet in being, as also a Library, called Palatina: Wherein stood a statue of Apollo, as Master of the Chorus among the Muses raised 50. . . . . . the noble work of Scopa, It may be conjectured that the Baths of Palatini lay in the Vinyard of Thomaso Faedra, a Roman Gentleman towards the Arco Massimo, approaching which were the Curia of the Salii, and Auguri, with other Fabricks, into these Baths by an Aqueduct, rann a stream of the Aqua Claudia.
At the foot of Mount Palatine, to wit at the Pillars of the Gallery of Caligula, is a round Fabrick, being the Church S. Theodosius, which was at first built and consecrated to Jupiter stator, by Romulus, about the time of the Sabyn warr, when the Romans turned tail, and running away, were by the entreaties of Romulus perswaded to face their Enemies, and receive Victory, some say that this was not the Temple of Jupiter Stator, but that it was the ruins of the old Court which stood near the Temple of Concordia.
Leaving the Temple of Janus Quadrifrons, and the Foro Boario, in the descent to the Circo Maximo, you meet a hollow place into which out of certain Pipes run copious waters, where the Women wash their Linnen; tis said that here were the Fountains of the Nimph Junturna in Velabro, now called Fonti S. Georgii. The Vault which appears contiguous with a great Arched common Shoar, was built by Tarquin, for reception of the Channels and Filth of the Citty, with a commodious conveyance thence into the Tyber. Which Arch was so ample, that a Cart and Horses might conveniently passe [Page 197] thorow it. We read that the Censors sometime sould the Filth of this Vault and sink for the fatning the Fields about, to certain persone for 600000. Crowns, which when twas told the Emperor, he answered. ‘Odor Lucri bonus ex re qualibet.’
Now tis called Chiavica, Close by which lies the Lago Curtio, a Lake so denominated from Curtius who threw himself and horse armed praecipitously into that Vorago, or opening of the Earth, that he might avert the pestilential Ayr exhaling out of it, which infested Rome with a great contagion. There also grew the Grove of Numa Pompilius, wherein he spoke and treated with the Nimphe AEgeria, from whom he learned the Ceremonies of the Sacrifices, and where twas unlawfull for any one to spit. In this place the Ashes of the Galli Senones were layed up, now tis called Dolioli, from the Dolia or earthen Vessels, wherein they put the Ashes of the slain, to be buried.
The GIRCO MASSIMO,
OF all the Ornaments of the Circo Maximo scarce any thing is to be seen, more than the entire circumscription of the place whereby its amplitude is discerned: It lies between the Palatino, and the Aventino, and is about half a mile long and three Acres broad which some say was capable of 260 thousand men, others restrain it to one hundred and fifty thousand. Here Romulus first set forth the Consaulian Games to the God Conso, after the rape of the Sabyn Women. Tarquinius Priscus designed and Tarquinius Superbus built the place, for the celebration of the Circensian games, and other Solaces for the People, which Augustus adorned, Gaius amplified, Trajan repaired and augmented the Fabrick, and Heliogabalus paved it. At present tis all about in Gardens, but some steps and roofs of little cels remain, which are supposed to have been the Offices of the Actors in the Games, or of such as uttered beer and other necessaries, to the People resorting to the shews. Others think them to haue been the stews wherein the Whores dwelt, exposing their bodies to sale for gaine. Neptune had a Temple conjoined with this Circ, whereof some ruines are yet to be seen incrusted with Fish shels. Where the Church of S. Anastatia stands, were erected two Obelisks, the one of which being 132 foot long without the bases, was translated by Sixtus the 5th. to the Vatican, the other was 88. foot high. Augustus transported both out of AEgypt, for adorning the Circ: wherein also was the Naumachia for exercising Sea-fights: a place now consisting of boggs and Reeds: where also part of those waters flowed which by an Aqueduct were conveighed into the Circ, called Aquae Claudiae.
On the left hand rises the Moles, or vast Fabrick of Septimius Severus called Settizonio, from its seaven floors, than which no structure in Rome was higher. The Emperor raised it to that altitude, that it [Page 198] might be Obuious to such as sayled out of Africk into Italy: whoseing it, should adore his Ashes layed up at the very top of it, because himself was an African by birth. Of which immense Edifice three Rafters now only continue, which through long antiqnity seeming to nod, and threaten destruction, Sixtus the 5th. caused to be levelled with the foundation to the great dissatisfaction of the Roman people. One part of the Title Legible was this. ‘Trib. Pont. VI. Cons. fortunatissimus nobilissimus.’
The VIA APPIA.
THe Via Appia takes its beginning at the Arch Triumphal of Constantine, and leading by the Settizonio of Severus, conductes one to the Baths of Antoninus, whence it passed by the Porta Capena, to the ruins of Alba Longa, and thence to Brindesi. Blind Appius the Senator gave name to it, paving it with most hard stone to Capua, thence Caesar prolonged it, but Trajan repaired, enlarged and compleated it, its reliques are yet to be discerned, at Rome, Piperno and Monte Cincello. but that part of the Via Appia, which leads from the Baths of Antoninus to the Porta Capena, is called the Via Nava, all which was paved by Antoninus Caracalla, when he built his Baths, then which (except Dioclesians) none in Rome, are more perfect. In these Baths stand Pillars of Serpentine stone; and great Bathing places cut out of Marble: they were placed near the Church San Sisto in the Aventino, and to them was adjoyned a Temple of Isis, where now is the Church de i Santo Nereo and Archiole: along the Via Appia rose many Temples of Gods, whereof no fragments are now extant.
The Porta Capena, was so named from Capena, a City near Alba Longa, the way whereunto lay through this gate, which was also called Camaena from the Temple of Camaenae, that is to say the Muses which was but a little eloigned from it: It was also called Triumphal because through it, the Scipioes entred the City triumphing, and likewise Charls the 5th. the Emperor, entred by the same into Rome, ( Paul the third then reigning,) when he came from his Victory over the Africans, At this day tis called Porta S. Sebastiani, from the Church consecrated to the same Saint, which is two miles distant from the gate near the C [...]metery, of Calixtus. On each side of this way ly magnificent Sepulchres, in great number, yet almost entire, as also the footsteps of Many Temples, though not exactly discernable.
Here also remains a certain round Fabrick, judged to be the Sepulchre of the Ceteghi, for in the titles may be read on both sides the name of the Family of Cetega, and not far from the City is f [...]en the River Almone, which running into Rome, commixes with the Tyber under the Aventino.
That high round Mole on the right hand proves it self to have been the Sepulchre of the Scipio's by the inscriptions upon it. On [Page 199] the left hand as you leave the Via Appia you meet the Church Domine quo vadis, the history whereof is related before. The adjacent Fabrick is supposed to be the Sepulchre of the Lucilli, here, as under diuers others are certain Vaults digg'd, and they divided in several for the comodious disposal of the Vessels and Urns containing the Ashes of the Defunct. The Brick wall is thought to be part of the Temple of Faunus and Sylvanus.
On the right hand of the Church Saint Sebastiano, stands an entire Temple but dispoiled of its ornaments, formerly dedicated to Apollo, into which the Shepherds to preserve their Flooks, from the heats of the day, and incomodities of the nights do often drive them.
About forty paces farther in the adjacent sields, amongst thorns and brambles, in an obscure place, is a subterranean Cavern. whose entrance through the heaps of stones is difficultly found, but when entred, you behold Vaults built with good Art, on each side of which are long repositories, wherein the bodies of deceased Christians, whom twas not lawfull to bury solemnly or openly were reposed. In these Cavernes were the primitive Christians wont to conceal themselves, to fly the Emperors raging persecutions, now called Stanze de Christiani.
In the Temple of Saint Sebastiano, they descend by certain steps into the Caves under ground, which are called Catecombe. Wherein in old time the Christians for fear of Tyrants usually lay [...]id: in these tis reported that forty Popes suffered Martyrdome, and with them one hundred seventy four thousand Christians, as by the Inscription over the ingress clearly appears. The place is adored with the highest devotion, and its profundity and Darkness creates no small fear. Tis not possible to find the way in without Torches and Lights, nor safe to go too & fro in the several divisions (which are like a Labyrinth) without a good guide, Tis called Caemiterio, di Calisto, Among the Reliques in this Church they shew the Prints or Footsteps of the Feet of Christ upon a stone, which they say were there left by Christ at his ascension into Heaven in the presence of his Disciples. Many other things are writ hereof by Onosrius, and others.
On the side of this Church is found a vast round Temple supported by one hundred Marble Pillars consecrated to Mars Gradivus by Sylla while he was AEdile, in it Audience was given to the Embassadors of Enemies, by the Senate, to prevent their ingress into the City, least they should make advantages of their admission as Espials; they report the greater part of this Temple at the prayers of the Pope Saint Stephen, to have fallen down, when by the command of Galienus, he was there compelled to sacrifice to Mars: Near hereto they preserved the Stone Manale, which when the Romans would obtain Rain they solemnly brought in procession into the Citty
Beyond that upon the Via Appia, rises the Walls of a square Castle very entire: which some believe to have been Sinvessa, others Pametia, but the most to be credited averr it to be the Stanza or abiding place of the Praetorian Souldiers, within these walls is a spatious Concave.
Here on all sides ly huge Sepulchres, some built in a square, others in a [...]ound, a third sort in a Pyramid form, either with brick or Marble, [Page 200] whose inscriptions demonstrate, that they were erected for the Metelli, Among which a great structure in a round form seems the most conspicuous, being raised with squared white marble stones to the bigness of a Tower, hollow within and open at top, so that standing below one may see the skies: Its walls are about 24. foot thick, in whose circuit are interwoven the heads of Bulls and Oxen cleared of the skin and flesh, as in their sacrifices they used them, between the garlands of Leaves and Flowers. The heads amount to the number of 200. Sacrificed to the God Capode Boi, and the Antiquaries will have, that at the famous Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella a double Hecatombe was performed. At the Foot of the neighbouring Hill, if you pronounce a whole heroick verse, an admirable Eccho returns it whole, and articulately for the most part, and confused otherwhiles eight times answered: In no place is heard so rare an Eccho, which is said to be excited by artifice, that at the Funeral of this Caecilia Metella, the ejaculations of the weepers and the funeral houlings might immensely be multiplyed, while that double Hecatombe was celebrating, and the Funest duties performed in honour of that Matron.
In the next depressed place, ly the mighty ruines of the Circo Hipodromo, The structure hereof is attributed to Bassiano Caracalla raised in the Place where Tiberius the Emperor, built the Stables for the Praetorian bands: here the Souldiers exercised themselves in running, riding, and driving Chariots.
In the midst of the Area, lie certain signes of the places whence the horses rushed out to their courses, as also of Bases, Statues, Altars, and meets or bounds for the Courses; round it are many pictures, in the midst lies an Obelisk of speckled stone called Granito, flat upon the ground broken in three pieces, carved all over with Hieroglyphicks, branches with Leaves and animals. Tis supposed that Sixtus the 5th. would have reared this as he did others had not death shortned his days.
Above the Circ riseth an entire Temple four squared, with Pillars, and Corridores before it: Which as is supposed was dedicated to the Dio Ridicolo, uppon this occasion: Hannibal having slain 40 thousand Romans at the battail of Cannae, marched with his victorious Army to the siege of Rome, and pitched his Camp in that very place: where a diffused Laughter being heard over his Camp it caused a prodigious fear, and that made him raise the Siege and retreat to the Terra di Lavoro: which had he obstinatly continued some time longer, (having created such a consternation in the Citizens) he had undoubtedly taken Rome with small difficulty: but as Livy saies an Affrican told Hannibal, He knew how to obtain but not how to make use of Victory. Thus was Rome delivered from Hannibal: and the Romans in commemoration of so great a benefit received from the God of Laughter, consecrated that Temple to the Dio Ridicoloso.
Hence you must return by three miles journey back to Rome, and arrived at the walls enter by the Porta Latina, near whereto is the Church S. Giovanni where tis said the same Saint was cast into boyling oyl by the command of Domitian, for which a feast is alwaies solemnized in May, thence follow the street to the Porta Gabiosa, so [Page 201] called, for that intending for the Citty Gaba, you must march out of it, where the Via Roma connexeth with the Prenestina: as sometimes the Via Appia unites with the Latina.
MONTE CELIO.
Leaving the Wall on the right hand of the Porta Gabiosa, you ascend Monte Celio, wch runs along by the wall to the Porta Maggiore. This Hill was antiently called Querquetulano, from the multitude of Oaks growing thereon, before the Tuscans inhabited it: to whom licence was given to dwell in the Bourg Tosco, because they marched under their Captain Cloche Vibenna, to the assistance of the Romans against their Enemies. On this Hill at this day rests no Antique thing of moment, more than the infinite ruines of Fabricks. One part of it is na med Celiolo, where stands a Church of Santo Giovanni Evangelista, called ante Portam Latinam, which was antiently a Temple sacred to Diana. On the top of the Celio, is a round Church dedicated to S. Stefano, by Pope Simplicio, from being a Temple of Faunus, whose antiquity threatning destruction, Nicholas the fifth repaired it, and Gregory the thirteenth beautifyed it with Pictures of Martyrs and Saints.
Curia Hostilia stood where now is Santi Giovanni and Paulo towards the Settizonio of Severus, built by Tullius Hostilius, different from that in the Foro Romano, Here the Senate assembled for state affairs.
The Church of S. Maria in Domenica is seated towards the Aventino, and was restored by Leo the 10th. here antiently stood the Dwellings of the Albani, and near them the Aqueduct for the Aqua Claudia, in the Arch whereof are engraven these words P. Corn R. F. Dolabella, Cos. C. Junius C. P. Silanus Flamen Martial. Ex S. C. Faciundum curaverunt. Idemque Probaverunt.
By the same Aqueduct stands a great Fabrick as a conservatory of the Waters.
The Castra Peregrina stood in old time where the Church of Santi quatro Coronati, was built by Pope Honorius, and restored by Paschal the second. In those Castles they used to rendezvouz and accommodate the People for Sea affairs, which Augustus used to keep in the ordinary Fleet at Niseno. Between the Porta Gabiusa, and Celimontana abound great ruines of the Palace of Constantine the great (called now S. Giovanni) by which may be comprehended the magnificent state and splendor of that Emperor.
San Giovanni in Laterano keeps its antient name built by Constantine the Great at the instance of Pope Sylvester formerly the Seat of the Roman Pontifices at first called Romae Episcopi Bishops of Rome, but afterwards (induced thereunto by the pleasantness of the Vatican Hills) they translated their habitation thither, building a renowned Palace near St. Peters Church.
Near the said Church stands Il Battisterio di Constantino: of an orbicular form sustained by 8. porphyr Pillars: Report saith that Constantine the Great labouring under a Leaprosie, at the perswasions of [Page 202] his Phisicians resolved to bath himself in the blood of Infants, and for that intent erected this sumptuous structure: but being admonished in a dream to bath himself in holy water in the name of Jesus Christ the true God, whom Helena his Mother worshipped, the Emperor obeyed the Celestial admonition, and was baptized in that porphyr Font now in the said Temple: For the truth hereof the Reader is desired to consult his own thought: It not being likely, that so magnificent a structure should be built and intended for perpetrating that notorious crime, which should rather be kept close and tacitely concealed, than published with such vain ostentation; besides that Historians say he was baptized by the Nichomedian Bishop, when he arrived in Asia, B [...]isardo thinks that the said Battisteri [...] was rather the Bath to the Lateran Pallace and the Form of the Fabrick induceth him and others to the same belief: But however it was tis most certain that Constantine the great, having profest the Christian Religion, was baptized in this Church and the same Babtistary tis shewed to this day, and all converts to the Christian Religion, are there still baptized. On the right hand of it are certain holy chappels, and therein preserved many pretious Marbles and some Pillars conveyed hither from Jerusalem.
At the entrance of the Church San Giovanni Laterano, stand many sumptuous Tombs of Popes, and Altars wrought excellently with Marble, upon the high Altar is the last supper of Christ ingraven in silver of great value, set up by Clement the seaventh, who also raised, the great rich Organ, and that stately Vestry for the use of the Church.
Before the Chorus were four hollow brasen Pillars of Corinthian work, which tis said were brought from Jerusalem full of the holy Earth where our Saviour was enterred, others say that Sylla fetched them from Athens, and others that Augustus caused them to be cast in Rome of the Beaks of the Galleys taken in the Actiack battail and in memorial applyed to the Temple of Jupiter Capitolino. Furthermore others say that Vespasian translated them with the other spoils from Jerusalem. Of late, Clement the 8th. caused them to be guilt over, and placed them on the high Altar, with a brass Scutcheon guilt and affixed to them, wherein his Arms are engraven.
Before Sixtus the 5th. reedified from the foundations the Lateranian Palace, there was a great hall, where the Pope with the Ecclesiastical Synod of Cardinals and Arch-bishops rendred themselves when they were to manage any substantial business. Those three great marble Collumnes were shipped from the Palace in Jerusalem, here the Later ane [...]sial counsels were solemnized with the assistance of the whole Clergy.
The Scala Sancta, contained 28 stairs which stood in Pilats House the which Christ ascended when he was whipped, are transferred by the Pope into another place where Christians frequent them and for devotion creep up them upon their knees kissing them.
Here were two porphyr chairs, whereof the Enemies of the Catholick Faith recount certain shamefull Fables which have been sufficiently confuted by Cardinal Bellarmine, in his first Tome of the controversies of the Roman Bishop, as also the story of Pope Joan whom the story saies to be John the 7th: who succeeded Leo the 4th. confuted [Page 203] by the said Cardinal and Onofrius, and lately by Florimondo Romondo in French,
The Pillar of white Marble placed in the wall, and divided in two is thought to be broken miraculously at the death of Christ, when the Veyl of the Temple rent.
Sancta Sanctorum is a Chappel held in great veneration, the ingress therein is forbidden to women: In it are kept the Ark of the Covenant, the rod of Aaron, the Table whereon Christs last supper was celebrated: of the sacred Manna, the Navil string and praepuce of Christ, a Vyal of Christs blood, some thorns of his Crown, one whole Nail wherewith he was fastened to the Cross. The Snaffle of Constantine the great his Horse, which was made of the two nayls which pierced his feet, the fourth was placed in the Emperors golden Diademe. In the same place are likewise shewed many Reliques which are regarded by the Romans with huge Devotion: here is to be observed that the old pictures of the Greeks, and Gregory, Bishop of Turona shew, that Christ was fastened to the Cross, with two nails in his feetand a little table under.
Somewhat distant from S. Giovanni, stands a Gate of the City called now by the same name, but antiently Celimontana from Mount Celio Hence the Via Campagna takes its beginning leading to the Campagna called Terra di Lavoro from its sterility: Forth the City it joines with the Latina.
On the back part of Monte Celio, lyes the Church Santa Croce di Jerusalem, one of the seaven chief, formerly sacrate to Venus and Cupid, In it is kept a part of the Lords Cross, and the title of the Cross writ in three languages, one of the thirty pence, which Judas the Traitor received for betraying Christ, a Thorn of the Crown, with other sacred Reliques.
Here under the Earth Helena the mother of Constantine built a Chappel, wherein Women are permitted entrance only upon the 20th. of March, to the Monastery of this Temple is adjoyned an Amphitheatre, somewhat less but more antient than the Coliseo, which was edificated by Statilius Taurus, in the reign of Augustus: but twas for the most part destroyed by Pope Paul the 3d. for reparation of the Monastery. On one side of Santa Croce appear yet some ruines of the Basilica Sessariana, near the Walls.
The Arches which enter the City by Porta Nevia, and pass over the top of the Celio, to the Aventino, were the Arches for the Aqueduct of the Claudian water: and were the highest and longest of Rome, Claudius conveighed this water from forty miles off into the City; Some of this water run into the Palace, some into the Campidoglio, but the greatest part to the Aventino: The said Porta Nevia, was also called Nevia, and Santa Croce and was built in an Arch Triumphal, which demonstrates the Majesty and grandeur of the work.
Near the Aqueduct for the Aqua Claudia towards Monte Celio, stands the Hospital S. Giovanni being both wealthy and comodious for receipt of infirm and sick Persons, abounding in all sorts of Phisical ingredients, Physicians, Apothecaries, Surgeons, attendants, and whatever els can conduce to the good of the Patients: This conveniency hath in all ages induced many Princes and other Persons of quality and riche [...], when their Maladies require, to make this Hospital [Page 204] their abode, though they lye there at their own expence. In the Court of it are Sepultures of divers sorts. Baths with sculptures of Satyrs and different Actions: The battail of the Amazones: The Chase of Meleager and other fair objects.
The Temple of S. Clement Pargetted with various coloured Marble, hath divers old inscriptions, many figures of the sacred in struments used in the divine services by the Popes as also in the Sacrifices by the Priests of the Gentiles and the Southsayers.
In the return you meet that stupendious and admirable Mole the Amphitheatre, called vulgarly Coliseo from the Colossean statue of 120 foot high, which Nero erected. The altitude of this Amphitheatre was such, and the structure so compact, that Rome afforded nothing more stately. 'Twas eleaven yeers continued labour for thirty thousand Slaves, and capable of eighty seaven thousand men, who might conveniently dispose theselves in the surrounding Seats for be holding the Playes there yeerly exhibited.
The house of Nero occupying all that space between the Hils Palatino and Celio, reached to the Esquilie, so ample that it had more the face and semblance of a City, than of a single house, within were comprehended Fields, Lakes, Woods, and a Gallery of a mile long, with three ranks of Pillars, many of its Chambers were guilt and adorned with gems: and the Temple dedicated to Fortuna Seia, had in it an Image of the same Goddesse of transparent Marble.
On the left hand stands the Arch Triumphal of Constantine the Great, as yet whole and perfect with all his victories and statues carved on it. This Arch was erected in honour of that Emperor by the Romans after he had overcome at Ponte Milvio, Maxentius, who had tyrannically oppressed Rome and Italy. At present they manage horses in the Coliseo. And near it rises a proud Fabrick in form of a Pyramid, which was called La Meta Sudante, for that thence issued Streams of water, whereof such as had disposed themselves in the Amphitheatre to see the sports, had given them to satisfie their thirsts when desired by any. Thus ends the second dayes Journey.
The third dayes Journey of ROME.
LEaving the Castle Saint Angelo on the right hand of the Torre Sanguina, passing through the street Orso, where it divides you find the house of Bildo Ferratino in the frontispiece whereof stands a statue of Galba the Emperor with other figures.
In the Palace of the Duke of Altemps, they shew many monuments of Antiquity, Epitaphs, Inscriptions, aud Reliques which wonderfully delight the eyes of skilfull Artists, and ingenious Men, [Page 205] among others the statue of Seneca, the Philosopher and the Vestry and Chapel of the Duke, clear demonstrations of the piety and religion of the Patrones. Near it stands the house of Cardinal Gaetano containing some rare Antique statues.
Towards Navova is the Church of S. Apollinare formerly the Temple of Apollo, and behind it the Church of Saint Augustine, where the Tombe of Santa Monica his Mother is shewed with her Reliques.
That spatious Court before the Palace of the Dutchess of Parma, corruptly called Piazza Navona, was formerly the Circo Agonale, wherin they exhibited the Agonalian fights and games instituted by Numa Pompilius in honour of Janus. Nero augmented this Circ, and so did Alexander the Son of Manca, who erected also near it a Palace and the famous Alexandrian Hot baths. Hereabouts also Nero and Adrian had their Baths. but the continued edifices there have lost the very foundations of the old structures.
In the house of the Bishops of Saula, is shewed the Head of M. Tul lius Cicero, in that of Alexander Ru [...]ino, the Image of Julius Caesar Armed, like a Colossus, with his thighs neatly harnessed after the oldfashion, and oposite to it, another of the same heighth, and vests of Octavius Caesar. Then which statues, Rome scarce affords any thing of better workmanship.
Those round and high Arches which rise in that place called the Ciambella, are reliques of the Bathes of M. Agrippa: near which Nero built others, whose Fragments shew themselves behind S. Eustachio.
M. Agrippa Built the Pantheon near his Bathes in honour of all the Gods, a Temple to be admired for the Architecture and wealth, the most antient, entire, and splendid of any at this day extant in Rome He built it orbicular, that Preeminence of Place might create no quarrels among the Gods. Others say he dedicated it to Ope, and Cibele, as mother of the Gods, and Mistress of the Earth. Afterwards the Popes consecrated it to the Blessed Virgin and all the Saints. It hath no windowes, being in lieu thereof supplyed with light from a great Open space at top, the rain water driving there through is received into a large brass Vessel at the bottom, which in old time was covered with plates of silver but Constantine the Nephew of Heraclius took away that with the other ornaments of the City; antiently twas ascended to by 7 steps, but now who enters it must descend 18. steps, whereby appears how vast are the heaps of ruines. An inscription of very long Letters testifie that Severus, and M. Antonius repaired the Pantheon: then threatning a ruine. Herein lies Raphael of Urbin, the Prince of Painters▪ And before it stands a large Vessel of Porphyr admirable for the grandeur and curiosity of workmanship, one like to which is extant in Santa Maria Maggiore under the Crucifix.
Near it Santa Maria della Minerva, so called from its first dedication to Minerva presents it self; where the Dominican Fryers inhabit: which hath nothing of antiquity more than the Walls and some old Inscriptions. Here lies the Cardinals, Pietro Bembo, and Tomaso Gaetano, learned men of their time: and Santa Caterina of Siena.
A great arch now old, rude, and divested of all its ornaments, [Page 206] stood near it, called Camiliano, which they think to be built by Camillus, but falsly, for those kind of works were first set a foot in the reigns of the Emperors: sometime since, this Arch was by licence of Pope Clement the 8th. pulled down by Cardinal Salviano, who with those stones amplified his own adjacent Palace, near this Arch lay a foot of a Colossus very great, which is supposed to be transferred to the Campidoglio, where tis now obvious.
In the house of Paulus de Castro, is seen the head of Socrates, with his whole breast, and many other things which will recreate the spectator: In the Palace of S. Marca in the Via Lata, there, is such another Vessel of Marble as is at San Salvatore del Lauro, taken out of the Baths of Agrippa and a statue of Fauna or as others say of the good Goddess.
All those things wherewith of old the Court of Nerva was garnished, are either by age decayed, or translated to some other place tis called also Foro Transitorio, because over it they walked to go to the Foro Augusto and Romano, for which reason that Church is called S. Adriano in trefori. here stood likewise the Palace of the said Emperor whose ruines were removed elsewhere.
Here also lies the Foro Trajano, between the Campidoglio, the Quirinale, and the Foro Augusto, this was environed with a magnificent gallery sustained with noble pillars, whereof Apolliodorus was Architector and adorned with statues, Images, and a triumphal Marble Arch, of all which nought remains, except two of the Pillars at Santa Maria di Loreto. And one Collumne spread over within with Cockle shells, which demonstrates the splendor and Majesty of the Emperors; tis 128 foot high besides the bases, which is 12. foot more: tis raised by 24 stones only, but they so vast, that it appears the work of Gyants, every one of those stones hath eight stayers by which they get up inwardly to the top, which are enlightned by 44 Casements. Round it are carved the noble Acts of Caesar Trajano in the Dacian Warr. No part of the world can boast a work more admirable, or more magnificent. 'Twas erected in honour of that good Emperor, who was not so fortunate as to see it finished, for being detained in the Parthick warr, upon his return a flux of blood seized him in the City of Soria, in Sele [...]cia, whereof he dyed his body was brought to Rome, and his bones inclosed in a Pile, placed on the top of the Columne.
In this Foro di Trajano, stand the Churches of Saint Silvester, S. Biasio, Sant Martino, placed there by S. Marco the first Pope. Boniface the 8th. erected there 3 Towers, called now, Le Militie, chiefly that in the midst, where Trajan used to quarter his Souldiers.
Above it lies the the Vineyard of Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandino, meriting a view, wherein besides the Fountains and Sources of waters which form many streams, you may see some old noble Marbles among others Harpocrate a Child, wrought by an exquisite hand, and an old painted picture, found some yeers since retaining the beauty of its colours: a wonder to believe, since it is so antient, and so long lay hid in a grotto near S. Maria Maggiore.
IL MONTE ESQUILINO.
AT the Foro di Nerva begins the Suburb, which extended to the Tiburtina dividing the Esquilie; the Vale between the Esquilie, and the Viminale they name Vico Patricio, because many Patritii that is to say Nobles dwelt in that part.
L'Esquilie, was so called because in the time of Romulus the Sentinels were placed there, this hill is severed from the Celio, by the Via Lavicana from the Viminale by the Vico Patritio. The Via Tiburtina, as abovesaid (crosseth it in the midst which way ascends from the Suburb to the Porta Nevia, but before it comes to the trophees of Marius tis cut in two, the right hand way leads towards San Giovanni Laterano, conjoyning with the Lavicana, the left goes to the Porta di San Lorenzo by the name of Prenestina.
In the Via Tiburtina, is the Arch of Galienus the Emperor called San Vito from the neighbouring Temple. Here was the Macello Lanieno, the Market for all eating things.
The Temple of Isis, now of Santa Maria Maggiore, consists of exquisite structure, adorned with gold and rare Marbles and sustained by Ionick Pillars. Here Santo Hieronimo, lies enterred and here they shew an Image of the Virgin, painted (as is credited) by St. Luke the Evangelist, Near it stands the Church of S. Lucia, and that of S. Pudentiana here of old stood a wood sacred to Juno reverenced with great but blind zeal.
In the Church of S. Prassede, are many inscriptions, and the Pillar (to which our Lord being bound) was whipped, this they say was brought from Jerusalem. In San Pietro in Vincula are many admi rable things, among others the Tombes of Julius the second whereon Moses is engraven by Buonorota; a work excelling most of the Antient, of Cardinal Sadoleto, and Cardinal di Tucino.
Thence you go to the Church de quaranta Martiri, from whence by the Via Labicano to S. Clement the Esquilie extended it self, and was there called Carine.
Near Saint Pietro in Vincula, are some subterranean edifices, the remains of Vespasians Baths, called the Sette Sale, being designed for keeping the waters requisite to the Baths, in them was found that sta tue of Laocoon now translated to the Vatican, which gives such admiration to all aspicients. The Church of S. Maria n [...] Monti, was built by Pope Symachus, in the decayes of Adrians Baths: the place being thence denominated at this day Adrianello.
At the Church d'Santi Ginliano and Eusebio, elates it self a huge Fabrick of brick work, wherein were the receptacles of the Aqua Martia: on the upper part whereof are figured the Trophees of Marius that is a heap of spoils and Arms bound to the body of a Tree placed there in honour of Marius for his expedition against the Cimbrians which things being afterwards torn down by Sylla in the civil war, were restored again by C, Caesar to their former lustre, and yet remain in the Campidoglio. Behind the Trophees in that Vineyard appear great ruines of the Emperor Gordianus his Baths near which [Page 208] the said Emperor raised a stupendious Palace which had two hundred Pillars in a double Rank. But hereof no more but high walls appear. All its Ornaments and Pillars, being thence translated for beautifying other Palaces.
From these Baths the way on the right hand called Labicana goes to Porta Maggiore, or Sant [...] Croce, antiently Nevia. Between this Gate and that of San Lorenzo, near the walls rise vast ruines of the Temple dedicated to the name of [...]aius, and Lucius the Nephews of Augustus and built by him, one arched roof yet may be seen called Gallucio as of Caio and L [...]cio.
Near it was the Palace of Licino, where now S. Sabina stands, there placed by Pope Simplex, contiguous with which Pallace was the place called Orso Pileato, from a Bears figure there.
By the gate Esquili [...]a, San Lorenzo or Tibuntina, by all which names tis frequently called: stands the Church San Lorenzo, built by Constantine the great in honour of that Martyr replenished with antiquities, but especially the instruments used in the sacrifices are carved on inembossed work, by this Gate also enters the Aqueduct by which the Aqua Martia is conveighed into the City, first raised by Q. Martius, afterwards consumed by Age restored by M. Agrippa.
This water was brought from 35. miles off the City, and ran into Dioclesians Baths, and the adjacent places, twas very healthfull, and therefore chiefly accomodated for the drink of the People.
On the other side of this Gate entered the Acque Tepola & Julia: the one was conveighed six miles the other eleaven from without the City. To these joyned the Aniene which ran from Tivoli 20. miles distance. Over the Aniene stands the Ponte Mammea, so named from Mammea the Mother of Alexander Severus the Emperor, by whom twas repaired, from this Gate the Via Prenestina reached to Praenest [...], and the Labicana to Labi.
That part of the Esquilie near San Lorenzo in Fon [...], was named Virbo Clivio, which was the Grove Fugatale where Servius Tullius dwelt and there lies the Vico Ciprio, called also Scelerato, for that Tullius was there slain by his Son in Law, over whose dead body his own Daughter commanded her Coachman to drive her Chariot. This Vico, or Town extended to Busta Gallica, where the Galli Senoni or the French were slain, burnt and buried by Camillus: now this place s denominated Porto Gallo, where the Church Saint Andrea: is built On the top of this Vico Scelerato Cossius had his Palace afterwards dedicated to the Goddess Tellura now to Saint Pantaleo [...] ▪ near Santa Agna at the foot of the Viminale stood a Temple of Silv [...], whose decays yet appear.
IL COLLE VIMINALE.
THe hill Viminale is next to the Esquilino, and runs along by the Walls: twas so named from a famous Temple dedicated to Jupiter Viminale: whence also the contiguous Gate took the name Viminale and Nomentana, from the way leading to Nomento, which is now called S. Agnese from the Church of that name near it, which was formerly dedicated to Bacchus, therein is an old porphyr Arch the greatest now extant in Rome, whereon are engraven Boyes gathering Grapes: which some call the Sepulchre of Bacchus, but erroneously.
In the Via Nomentana a little farther is the Ponte Nomentano built by Narsetes the Eunuch under Justinian the Emperor, as the inscription testifies. Nero the Emperour, between the Porta Suburbana, and Salaria, had Suburbano a singular edifice, which he gave to a Freed Man who fearinga publique punishment by a poynard thrust into his brest and the help of Sporo another freed Man slew himself: some ruines of this Fabrick yet remain.
Porta Querquetulana is now a Church near which appear square wals the Remains of the Castle deputed for the Souldiers stations apointed for the Emperors guards.
On the Viminale, are seen the Baths of Dioclesian, of an admired Vastness and sumptuosity, which though much decayed, are yet the most entire in Rome, 'Tis said that forty thousand Christians were in a servile manner turmoyled for fourteen yeers in the structure hereof. Dioclesian and Maximinian began them, but Constantine and Massiminian, compleated them now called Alle Terme, where appears a certain place made for receit of the waters employed in those Baths, called Bacco di terme; Dioclesian adjoined a Palace to them, whose ruines manifestly shew themselves. And here was that celebrious Library called Ulpa, where the Elephantine books were disposed.
On the right hand of these Baths, are the Gardens formerly appertaining to Cardinal Bellay, but now to the Monks of the order of Saint Bernard, to whose industry the ingenious owe the Invention and designes made by wind. And on their left hand, stands the Church of Santa Susanna, in old time the Temple of Quirinus. In this place they believe Romulus (being praeascended into Heaven) appeared to Proculus Julius then returning from Alba, for which cause the Senate consecrated a Temple and attributed to him divine honours. Here also ( ut aiunt) Romulus frequently descended and communicated divers things to Alba.
The foundations of the Olympiade Bathsyet continue near S. Lorenzo in Pane & Perna, vulgarly named Pamiperna where Decius the Emperors Pallace stood.
The Church S. Prudentia, was built by Pius the fourth, at the request of Santa Prascede his Sister, where likewise appear the walls of the Baths Novati. And the ruines of the Baths of Agrippina the Mother of Nero, are yet extant by the Church S Vitalis.
[Page 210]In San Lorenzo in Proserpina shewes it self a great Marble Stone reverenced with great adoration and religion, whereon ( ut aiunt) the roasted body of San Lorenzo, was repo [...]ed after his death: here lies buried Cardinal Cirketo the delight of the Learned of our times.
Beyond the Church S. Susanna by the Via Quirinale lay heretofore the gardens of Rodolfo, Cardinal Carpente, then which, no part of Ita ly nay Naples it self (where are the most excelling) afforded more delicious. In it were 134 statues engraven with divers artificial figures and other admirable curiosities so well disposed, that no Fancy could reach that Paradise, nor ocular view scarce apprehend its glory, to say no more this garden was an Embleme of that Cardinal its Patron the son of Alberto Pio Prince of Carpi, for as that exceeded most, so his knowledge in antiquities and Learning was admired by all, he wrote learnedly against Erasmus.
IL COLLE QURINALE or MONTE CAVALLO.
THis hill was so demonstrated from the Name Quiri or Curi, a Family of the Sabines who marching among others under Statius their Captain, to reside at Rome, inhabited this hill, now called Monte Cavalli, from the artificial horses there yet visible. Tis divided from the Viminale by that way which conducts to the Porta S. Agnese. Upon Monte Cavallo where were the Vineyards of the Cardinal of Estè now stands a Palace of the Popes admirable for the Grottoes, walks, Arbors, and artificial Fountains. The chief was the work of Pope Clement the 8th. whereon is wrote the history of Moses in Mosaique work. Here stand some old statues of the Muses, and here you may hear one of those Organes, called of old Hydraulici, because they sounded by force of the Waters. You ascend this Fountain by some steps, upon the ballostres whereof stand certain Vessels which spout out water very high, which in their fall present divers figures before it lies ample fish ponds with a Circle of Plain trees wch. afford a thick and lovely shade, in fine such is the the Variety of Marbles, the excellency and fairness of the statues the diversity of the Inscriptions, the beauty of the walks, the pleasantness of the Fountains, and the shade of the Groves in these pontifical Vineyards, That the studious may find here fit objects for their Observations The Curious for their admiration, and the Lovers of Solitude for their deportment and retreats. Hence a little distant lies the Vineyard of Octavio Cardinal Bandini, well kept and worthy a view. And at the four fountains the Palace of the Mattei, which hath some fair statues as well antient as modern.
Round about which lye several other Vineyards and Gardens, as of the Teatini, of the Colonna's and of Patriarca Biondo, near which [Page 211] is the Church Saint Andrea, repaired by the Jesuites, where the B. Stanislao Kostka, a Polach, lies buried who there acomplished his days.
Upon this Mount stand two Collossus or statues as twere of Gyants holding two wild horses by a Bridle cut in Marble, upon whose pilaster we read, that they were the work of Phidia, and Prasitelle, from which horsestis called Monte Cavallo. And the report goes that Tiridates King of the Armenians, presented them to Nero, who (that he might entertain that stranger King worthily and according to the Roman splendor) caused Pompeyes Theatre (where he exhibited the Games for that Kings Solace and recreation) in three days to be layed all over with silver Plates: Which magnificence the King did not so much admire (knowing well that in Rome were heaped up the riches of the world) as the diligence and ingenuity of the workmen, that in so short a time could perfect so noble ingenious a work, which in him created astonishment.
Here the Benedictine Fryers had a comodious habitation: which some time since they surrendred to the Apostolick Chamber, opposite whereto is a Pontifical Palace, built by Sixtus the 5th. for their cool retreat in hot weather; whence somewhat, in the Vigna of the Colonnesi, raiseth it self the Frontispiece of Neros Pallace, vulgarly called Frontone di Nerone, Hence Nero beheld the Fire which was by his own incendiaries kindled in the City of Rome which afterwards he imputed to the Christians, that by this Calumny he might draw them into hatred with the Senate and People of Rome, and by a publick edict commanded, that as many as were apprehended, confessing Christ for God should be burnt and excarnified in Neros gardens which Persecution continued three days.
On the other part of the Quirinale, are many Arches, Cels, & caves of different workmanship under ground, the Reliques of the Emperor Constantines Baths of hot waters. And thence looking towards the Suburbs, you behold an old Temple in the gardens of the Bartolini, made ov all and wrought with divers shapes of Fishes and other Ornaments which was dedicated to Neptune.
Near hereto is the place vnlgarly called Bagnanapoli, that is Bagni di Paulo, because they were made by Paulus AEmilius: The Monastery of the Nuns of Saint Benedict built by Pope Pius the 5th. and the Palace of the Conti, rise out of the ruins of those Baths, whereof to this day some small fragments are extant. The Tower de Conti, was raised by Innocent the 3d. and that of the Militie by Boniface the 8th.
On this part of the Quirinale, stood the house of the Cornelii, called now Vico di Cornelii, and S. Salvatore de Cornelii, a Temple sacred of old to Saturn and Bacchus.
From the Church S. Salvatore, to the Porta disan Agnese, reacheth the Street called Alta Semita, on the right hand whereof near San Vitale, stood the house of Pomponius Atticus, with a wood. Hereby also was the Suburra Piana, and at the foot of the Viminale a Temple of Silvanus.
Upon the top of the Quirinale, stood a Temple consecrated to Apollo, and Clara, two small Temples of Jupiter and Juno, and the old Capitol; of these structures scarce any reliques appear, here now is the [Page 212] Monastery of the Nuns of Saint Domenick, and the Church of Santa Maria Magdalena.
Near San Susanna, stood the Court and house of Salust, which place is now corruptly called Callostrico: his fair gardens took up all that space between the Porta Salaria and la Pinciana, in the midst whereof stood a small Obelisk carved with Hyeroglyphicks, dedicated to Luna, since amoved.
In the descent from the Quirinale, towards the Foro of Nerva a high Tower presents it self, which is vulgarly called Torre Mezza, which tis believed was one part of the house of Maecenas, adjoyning whereunto were his delicious Gardens, whereto Augustus Caesar frequently withdrew himself from his more weighty affairs to recreate himself with his Friend, and to revive his toyled Spirits. Others believe it to be a part of the Temple dedicated by Marcus Aurelius to the Sunne.
The Fourth dayes Journey of ROME.
FRom the Bourg taking the way over Ponte Elio, you up against the streams of the Tyber meet the Church San Biasio, at Ripetta, which is supposed to have been the Temple of Neptune, amplified by Adrian the Emperor: here such as had escaped any remarkable shipwrack, hung up Tablets containing the particulars of their deliverance and their vows for it to the God of the Sea.
In the Valle Martia, by the Church of San Rocco stands the Mauseolo, of Augustus being a Sepulchre erected by Octavius for himself and she successors of the Caesarian Family, out of the ruins and with the Materials of that Amphitheatre (which he destroyed) that Julius Cesar built there; its Circuit is yet entire divided into a figure four square lozanged. In this Mauseolo, stands a Matrona holding a Cornucopia with Fruit, and an AEsculapius as bigg as a Gyant with a Serpent.
In this Mauseolo, were also heretofore two Obelisks of Granito, 42 foot high.
The Circ of Julius Caesar, extended from this Mauseolo to the foot of the neighbouring Mountain, Augustus had a Palace opposite to it▪ with a stately Gallery, and had here consecrated a Grove to the Gods of Hell, reaching from the Church Santa Maria del Popolo to S. Trinita.
Some say that Marcellus his Sepulchre was contiguous with this Mauseolo, and shew its very Track: which Boisardo, believes rather to belong to the Mauseolo, and not a distinct Edifice.
Augustus also had made a place called Naumachia for Naval Diversions in the lower part of the Valle Martia, (looking towards the [Page 213] Hill Santa Trinita which Domitian restored being decayed through antiquity, and called it after his own name, placing near it a Temple to the Family Flavia: where now Saint Silvestro stands.
The Valle Martia▪ was so denominated, because twas the lowest Gate of the Campo Martio, and extended from the Tyber to the hills Santa Trinita, and from the Piazza of Domitian in the Via Flaminia to the Porta Flaminia.
The Via Flaminia took its name from Flaminius the Consul, who paved it after the conquest of the Genovesi now tis called the Corso: for that at some time of the yeer, boys and certain animals run here striving who shall arrive first at the end of the course. This way goes from the Porta Flaminia (called heretofore Flumentana from its vicinity to the Tyber but at this day Porta del popolo) to Pesaro, and to Rimini. Near this way lye many gardens filled with inscriptions chiefly those of Cardinal Lovisio, Justiniano, Gallo, Altemps and others.
By this Way Pope Julius the third accomodated a Vineyard with such ornaments, as for cost and magnificence surpassed all others in Rome, and as an Inscription attests, conducted to the publik way a Fountain for the benefit of all persons, wherein tis scarce to be judged which ought most to be applauded, the ingenuity of the Artitificers, or the sumptuousness and splendour of the Roman Chief Bishops.
Beyond this lies Ponte Molli. where the Tyrant Maxentius was overcome by Constantine the Great: which Tyrant that he might not be carried alive in the Triumphs of Constantine cast himself headlong off the Bridge into the Tyber. Afterwards in honour of Constantine was erected the Triumphal Arch between the Coliseo and the Settizonio of Severus.
Returned into the City by the Porta Flaminia you find the Arch of Domitian, called di Portogallo, because in that quarter the Embassador of Portugall resi ded. Tis also called Tripoli, a rude and incompact structure, having nothing of moment in it more than the statue of Domitian, which some too will not have to be his, but the statue and Arch of Claudius the Emperor.
The Church of Saint Lorenzo, in Lucina, was sacred to Juno Lu cina, and yet retains its old name, here of old, breeding women and such as lay in Childbed, after the birth used to pay their vows, because by the good will of the Goddess, not only themselves were preserved in that great peril, but the Life of their tender Infants.
In the street de Condotti, in the house of the Bosii, some notable and old inscriptions are extant. In the Palace of the Spanish Embassador a fair and Copious Fountain. In that of Dionigio Octaviano Sada, (who translated the old Dialogues of D. Antonio Augustino, into Italian,) a good number of rare things in this kind. In that of the Ruzzelai, a Gallery filled with old statues of rare artifice, and in the Court, a very large brazen horse. And in that of the Cardinal Desa, now building, we assure our selves of rare Architecture and great Curiosities.
The Campo Martio heretofore without the City, fils that plain between the Quirinale, the Ponte di Sisto, and the Tevere or Tyber, here the [Page 214] youth exercised themselves in Military discipline, and here they hold their Council for creating of Magistrates.
Between Santa Maria del Popolo, and the Porta Flaminia, is seen an Obelisk, filled with Hieroglyphicks, and AEgiptian Letters: which Pliny writes, to be one hundred and ten foot long, and to contain on it the interpretation of the AEgyptian Philosophy. Augustus Caesar caused it to be transferred from Hieropoli to Rome, with two others, which he placed in the Circus Maximus. On the Pedestal is this Inscription. Caesar. Divi. F. Aug. Pont. Max. Imp. X. J. Cos. XI. Trib. Pot. XIV. AEgypto in Potestatem. P. R. redact â Soli Donum dedit.
The house of Antonino Paleozo, affords an excellent statue of a horse and some heads, as of Drusus, of Julia the Daughter of Augustus, of Goleria, of Faustina Giovene, the wife of Marcus Aurelius, of Adrian, of Brutus, Domitian, Galba, Sabina, Hercules, Bacchus, Sylvanus, and Mercury: And likewise the Triumph of Tiberius Caesar, cut lively in one Marble stone. And that of Giacomo Giacovazzo, not a few excellent statues in Marble and Brass, and other Curiosities.
Antoninus Pius, in that part of the Campo Martio, called Piazza di Sciarra, erected a hollow Columne with winding stairs, and 56. Casements to give Light within to them: being 175 foot high, some say it is raised with 28 stones only, but in this tis not so clearly discernable as in that of Trajano, for that the stayers being broke tis not ascendable. On the superficies of it are wrought the Acts of Antoninus with excellent sculpture of figures, from this, that place is denominated Piazza Colonna.
Those eleaven high Pillars, which are seen erected at the Church of Saint Stephano, in Truglio, are the reliques of that open Gallery which Antoninus Pius built conjoyned, to his Palace in his Court: as far distant from this Church as the Rotonda.
Between the Collumne of Antoninus and the Fountain of Acque Virgine, were the Septa of the Campo Martio, so called for that they were enclosed with several thick Plancks, in which the Roman People assembled when they gave their suffrages for Election of the Magistrates. They were also called Ovili for their similitude to a Sheepfold here the Roman Tribes assembled in Council.
That Hill, between San Lorenzo in Colonna, and the abovenamed Column, called Monte Acitorio: took its name from the Latine words Mons Citatorum, where every Tribe Se'paratim, rendred themselvs after they had given their suffrages in the Septa. On the same Hill stood a publique Palace, for receipt of Embassadors from Enemies who were not licen ced to enter the City nor dwell in Graecostasi, which lay between the Counsel and the Rostri, in the Piazza Romana, Cardinal Santa Severina so much spoken of by the Hereticks, a man of great prudence, and an example for posterity, erected his Palace on this Hill.
Not far from hence is the Fountain of Aque Virgine, conveighed by a loud depressed Aqueduct over the Porta Collina, the Hill Santa Trinita, and through the Campo Martio now called Fontana di Trevi, we read in the inscription that Nieolo the 5th. restored it. And this alone of all the waters (which with so great costs, and such sumptuous [Page 215] Aqueducts, the antient Princes brought into Rome) remains standing for the publique Benefit.
From the Serraglio, or Septa of the Roman people began the Strada coperta, wherein stood heretofore a Temple of Neptune and the Amphitheatre of Claudius now wholly destroyed.
At the Acque Virgine was a Temple dedicated to Giuturna Sister of Tur no King of the Rutoli, accounted one of the Napee or Nimphes keepin gamong flowers, and the Countrey goddess, who as the Heathens believed assisted to the fertility of the Earth.
In the house of Angelio Colorio da Giesi, now appertaining to the Rufali, are seen many statues, and inscriptions, and one Arch of the stone Tivoli, joyning to the Acque Virgine, having this Inscription. T. Claudius Drus. F. Caesar Augustus. In the Fountain under the statue of a Nymph now removed are found these verses.
Pompeio Naro possesseth two statues which were found in his Vineyard, the one of Hercules the other of Venus.
IL COLLE de gli HORTICELLI, now di SANTA TRINITA.
THis Hill extends from San Silvestro to the Porta Pinciana or Collina along by the Walls of the City, but some draw it out to the Porta Flaminia. The Gate and Hill took their name from Pincius the Senator, whose magnificent Palace stood here, and the footsteps of it are yet visible; at the walls of the City upon this Hill was the Sepulchre of the Domitian Family: here likewise Nero was buried. On the top of this hill remains an Arch or roof which formerly was part of the Temple of the Sun, near whereto lies an obelisk of Thasian stone with this inscription. Soli Sacrum.
The Church Santa Trinita, now occupied by the Minime Fryars, was built by Lewis the XIth. King of France, wherein are some Tombes of Cardinals, as of Antonio Moreto, and Cardinal di Capri.
At the Porta Collina near Santa Susanna, Salustius (as aforesaid) had most pleasant gardens, and a splendid dwelling, whose ruines yet appear in the Vale leading to Salara: Here stood an Obelisk (now translated elsewhere) sacred to the Moon, engraven with AEgyptian Hyeroglyphicks. The place is yet vulgarly called Salostrico.
The Campo Scelerato, or the Via Scelerata (where the deflowred Vestal Virgines were buried alive) compleated all that space, from [Page 216] the Porta Collina under the house and gardens of Salustius to the Porta Salaria.
Without the Porta Salaria, called also Quirinale Collina and Agonale lye the ruines of the Temple of Venus Erycina, whose Feast was celebrated with solemn ceremonies by chast Matrons, in the month of August, to the Image of Venus Ver ecordia, which Goddess was supposed to render the Husbands placable and benevolent to their wives: in this Temple they likewise celebrated the Agonalian games, whence twas named Agonale.
Three miles without the City over the Aniene, stands an entire Bridge, which a long inscription shews to have been built by Narsetes, tis said that Hannibal being on this Bridge vexed with a vehement rain, raised the siege of Rome, removed his Camp and departed.
A little below which, the Tyber commixeth with the River Aniene, and here Torquatus overcame that French Gyant; from whose neck he took that golden neck chain, which (because in Latine called Torques) gave him the surname of Torquatus. Tis worth observation, That the Water drawn out of the Tyber, above the City towards the Sea, maintains it self wholesome, and clean for many yeers, which comes to pass from the mixture of the River Aniene with the Tyber, The water of the Aniene being thick and polluted with Nitre, which preserves it and occasions that it cannot putrify without difficulty: and the inhabitants along the Tybers banks above where the Aniene commixeth with the Tyber, mingle the waters of the one with the other, that they may last sweet a long time: although they have been necessitated to take them up singly and separately. In the gravel of the Aniene, they find several little stones in divers forms after the similitude of Comfits, some round some long, some little and some great, so that one would believe they found Almonds, Fennel, Anniseed, Coriander, and Cinamon Comfits. Of which small stones they usually gather a good heap on the bankside, to cousen the spectators with, and they are therefore called Confetti di Tivoli.
Titus Celius the Patrician recounts, that in former times a body of a man who was slain and cast into the Aniene, was found stuck fast to the root of a Tree under water, which it happened, in process of time, (being without putrefaction) was converted into stone, without loosing its shape: which stony body so found he saies he saw with his proper eyes.
At the Porta Salaria are shewed the Reliques of an antique Temple, consecrated to Honour, and of the house Suburbano of Nero, wherein by the assistance of Sporo the Libertine, the Emperor Nero thrust a dagger under his nipple, and therewith slew himself, that he might not fall into the hands of the Senate, then requiring him to punishment.
Within the City near the Vale between the hills Santa Trinita, and Quirinale stands the Church San Nicolo de Archemontis, so named for that the Foro or Piazza, of Archemorio was in that place.
Under the Vineyard of the late Cardinal Dapi are certain Chambers and obscure vaults continued in a long Order: which some will have to have been a Tavern, others had rather assign them to the use of the strumpets for their occupation in the time of the Floralian [Page 217] games: which were celebrated in the Circo Florae.
At the Church de'dodeci Apostoli, you find a Lyon in Marble, an incomparable piece, and in the house of Colonna, a Marble statue of Melisse a Lady, as the inscription declares.
Many other Palaces and houses of the Cardinals, Nobles, and wealthy Citizens of Rome, are plentifully fraught with other Antiquities and excellent Collections of Gold, Silver, and Brass coynes embossed works in divers Metals of ingenious Artists. Onyexes, Corneols, or Sardonian Gemmes, Cornelians, Amethists, Topazes, Berryls, Carbuncles, Jacinths, Saphirs, and Christals ingraven and cut with the heads of Gods, Emperors, illustrious and noble Men, divers Creatures, Hearbs, and Trees, containing also divers emblemes, which were heretofore commonly exposed to the view of strangers by their Patrones: but of later yeers the malignity of this depraved Age hath so ill gratified those persons for their Kindness, by many injuries received from such their free admission, that now unless recommended by some friend to some particular person in Rome, or contracting a Friendship through long familiarity: tis not easie for a stranger to obtain an inspection of those pretious Curiosities.
Of the Coemiteries and of the Burying places of ROME, collected out of HONOFRIO PANUINO.
THE Cemeterio Ostriano, three miles without the City in the Via Salaria, is thought to be the most antient of Rome, for that Saint Peter the Apostle in that place administred the Sacrament of Baptism.
The Protonotario of the Roman Church in his third Chapter of the Acts of Pope Liberio, speaks of it in this manner. A little distant from the Cemetrio di Novella, three miles without the City lay in the Via Salaria, the Cemiterio Ostriano, where the Apostle Saint Peter Baptized.
The Cemiterio Vaticano was placed on the Via Trionfale near the Temple of Apollo, and the Circ of Nero, in the Gardens of Nero where now the Church of Saint Peter stands: which besides the Tombs of Christians had in it also a Font for holy Baptisme, which for the most part was not in others.
Seaven miles distant from Rome was the Cemiterio called ad Nimphas, in Severus his possession on the Via Nomentana, where the holy Martyres bodies were enterred. As Pope Alexanders, &c.
Two miles without the City was the Cemeterio vecchio, amplified by the B. Calistus the Pope, from whom also it took a name. Herein were certain subterranean places called Catacombe, and in them a deep Pit, wherein the bodies of the Apostles Peter and Paul were layed.
[Page 218]Near to the Cemiterio, di San Calisto, was that of San Sotero, and in the same quarter lay that of San Zeferino the Pope contiguous with the Cat ecombe and that of San Calisto.
The Cemeterio of Calepo dio Prete, was two miles forth the Porta Gianicolese in the Via Aurelia, near San Pancratio.
That of Pretestato Prete in the Via Appia, where Pope Urban was buried.
That of Santo Partiano Papa near to Santi Abdon and Sennen.
That of Ciriaco in the possession of Veriani near the Church San Lorenzo without the Wall.
That of Lucina in the Via Aurelia, forth the Gate San Pancratio.
That of Aproniano in the Via Latina not far from the City, where Santa Eugenia was buried.
That of San Felice the Pope, a mile without Rome on the Via Aurelia, adjoined to that of Calepodio.
That of Priscilla, called also Marcello, from the Pope Marcellus in the Via Vecchia, three miles forth the City, was dedicated by the said Pope Marcellus.
That of San Timoteo in the Via Ostiense is comprehended now in the Church of San Paulo.
That of Novella three miles off Rome in the Via Salaria.
That of Balbina between the Via Appia, and Ardeatina, near the Church of San Marco the Pope, was named also San Marco from the said Popes name.
That of San Giulio the Pope in the Via Flaminia near the Church San Valentino without the Cities Walls. This also may be seen in the Vineyard of the Heremitanes of St. Augustino.
That of San Giulio the Pope in the Via Aurelia▪
That of San Giulio the Pope in the Via Portuense.
That of San Damaso, between the Via Ardeatina, and the Appia.
That of Sant Anastatio the Pope within the City in the Esquiline praecincts in the Bourg Orso, near Santa Bibiana. The Orso was near the Porta Taurina, in the Via Tiburtina by the Palace of Licinus.
That of S. Hermete, or Domitilla, appointed by Pope Pelagius in the Via Ardeatina.
That of San Nicomede, in the Via Ardeatina seaven miles off Rome.
That of San Agnese in the Via Nomentana.
That of S Felicita in the Via Salaria.
That of the Giordani, where Alessandro was buried.
That of Santi Nereo and Archielo in the Via Ardeatina, two miles forth the City.
That of S. Felice and Adauto in the Via Ostiense two miles without Rome.
That of Santi Tibuctio and Valeriano in the Labicana, three miles without Rome.
That of Santi Pietro and Marcellino in the Via Labicana, near the Church Santa Helena.
That of Santi Marco and Marcelliano in the Via Ardeatina.
[Page 219]That of S. Gianuario restored by Pope Gregory the 3d.
That of Santa Petronilla, adorned by Pope Gregorio.
That of Santa Agata à Girolo in the Via Aurelia.
That of Orso at Portenza.
The Cemeterio Cardino in the Via Latina.
That tra'due Lauri at S. Helena.
That of S. Ciriaco in the Via Ostiense.
But we must observe, that Astolfo King of the Longobardi tearing up out of the earth about Rome the bodies of many Saints, destroyed also their Cemeterii or burying places. and that the Popes Paolo and Paschale, reposed within the City, in the Churches of S Stefano, S. Silvestro, and S, Prascede, many bodies of Saints then lying in those Cemeterii which were ruinated and layed wast. And that the Christians were buried in the Cemeterii within Tombes and Sepulchres of Marble, or of brick, and of those Sepulchres some were hereditary, others bestowed in gift, and that at last places were assigned particularly for the Sepulture of Christians to wit Churchyards, &c.
The Roman fixed stations, granted by several Popes to divers Churches of Saints, with great priviledges and Indulgencies.
THe first Sunday of the Advent is celebrated at Santa Maria Maggiore.
The second at S. Croce di Jerusalem.
The third at S. Pietro.
The Wednesday of that season at St. Maria Maggiore.
The Fryday at the Dodeci Apostoli.
The Saturday at S. Pietro.
The Vigils of the Nativity at S. Maria Maggiore.
In the first Mass of the Nativity at Santa Maria Maggiore al Presepio.
In the second Mass at S. Anastasia.
In the the third at S. Maria Maggiore.
On St. Stephens day at S. Stefano nel Monte Celio.
On St. John the Apostles day at S. Maria Maggiore.
The Feast of the Innocents at S. Paolo.
The day of the Circumcision of our Lord at Santa Maria beyond the Tyber.
The day of the Epiphany or Twelfe day after Christmass at S. Pietro.
The Septuagessima Sunday at S. Lorenzo without the Walls.
The Sexagessima Sunday at S. Paolo.
The Quinquagessima at Santo Pietro.
The first day of the Quadragessima or Lent at Santa Sabina.
The second at S. Gregorio.
The third at San Giovanni and Paolo.
The Saturday at S. Trisone.
[Page 220]The first Sunday of Lent at S. Giovanni Laterano.
The Munday at San Pietro in Vincola.
The Tuesday at Santa Anastasia.
The Wednesday at Santa Maria Maggiore.
The Thursday of Lent at S. Lorenzo in Panisperna.
The Fryday at the Santi Dodeci Apostoli.
The Satturdey at Santo Pietro.
The second Sunday of Lent at S. Maria in Domenica.
The Munday at San Clemente.
The Tuesday at Santa Sabina
The Wednesday at Santa Cecilia.
The Thursday at Santa Maria in Transtevere.
The Friday at San Vitale.
The Satturday at the Santi Marcellino and Pietro.
The third Sunday of Lent at S. Lorenzo without the Walls.
The Munday at San Marco.
The Tuesday at Santa Potentiana.
The Wednesday at San Sisto.
The Thursday at the Santi Cosmo and Damiano.
The Fridry at S, Lorenzo in Lucina.
The Saturday at Santi Susanna.
The Fourth Sunday of Lent at Santa Croce in Jerusalem.
The Munday at the Santi quatro Coronati.
The Tuesday at San Lorenzo in Damaso.
The Wednesday at San Paolo.
The Thursday at the Santi Silvestro and Martino.
The Friday at Santo Eusebio.
The Satturday at San Nicolo in Carcere.
The fifth Sunday in Lent called the Passion Sunday at San Pietro.
The Munday at San Grisogono.
The Tuesday at San Quirico.
The Wednesday at Santo Marcello,
The Thursday at Santo Apollinare.
The Friday at S. Stephano in Monte Celio.
The Satturday at San Giovanni before the Porta Latina.
The Palme Sunday at San Giovanni Laterano.
The Munday at San Prascede.
The Tuesday at Santa Prisca.
The Wednesday at Santa Prisca.
The holy Thursday at San Giovanni Laterano.
The good Fryday called Parasceve at Santa Croce in Hierusalem.
The Satturday at San Giovanni Laterano.
Easter day or the Sunday of the Resurrection of our Lord at Santa Maria Maggiore.
The Munday at San Pietro.
The Tuesday at San Paolo.
The Wednesday at San Lorenzo without the Walls.
The thursday at the Santi Dodeci Apostoli.
The Friday at Santa Maria Rotonda.
The Saturday before the Octave called Sabato in Albis, at San Giovanni Laterano.
The Sunday of the Octave from Easter day called Domenica in Albis at San Pancratio
The Feast of the Ascention at San Pietro.
The Vigil of the Pentecost at San Giovanni Laterano.
The Pentecost Sunday at San Pietro.
The Munday at San Pietro in Vincola.
The Tuesday at Santa Anastasia.
The Wednesday at Santa Maria Maggiore.
The Thursday at San Lorenzo without the Walls.
The Friday at the Santi Dodeci Apostoli.
And the Saturday of this week of Penticost at San Pietro.
[Page 221]The Wednesday of the Feasts in September at Santa Maria Maggiore.
The Friday at the Dodeci Apostoli.
The Satturday at San Pietro.
Besides which there are other stations for every Feast of those Saints Apostles, Martyrs, Confessors, or Virgines to whom any Church is dedicated in Rome, and for the most part those Churches on the daies of their Feasts are visited with a multitude of People, his S. himself often celebrating Masse or at least being then present, atended by a great number of Cardinals and Prelates.
Of the Vatican Library of the Pope.
THe Vatican Library of the Pope is every day frequented by learned Men, and meritoriously for that it is filled with the most antient books in all the Professions, as well Greek, Latine, and Hebrew as other Languages writtten with the pen in Parchment And tis certainly to be admired, that those Popes under so many disgraces, negociations, Foreign and civil Wars and sackings of Rome, should still apply their chiefest study and pain in heaping together Books, and preserving those collections.
Sixtus the 5th in our time beautified and aggrandized it wonderfully adjoining to it a noble Fabrick, and causing most excellent pictures to be drawn about it: Which Guglielmo Bianco a French Man praiseth in a singular Poem: and Fryer Angelo Rocca by way of History treates of it diffusely. As also Onofrio Panuino of the same Order.
Many great Scholars have only desired favour from the Pope as to publish an Index of the Greek and Latine Books extant in that Library, that by this means recourse might be had to Rome from all parts both for the enlightning and correcting Authors, who have been altogether unseen, or are els printed full of errors. This the noble City Augusta permitted, and by that publique Index set forth in vited all to go thither for comparing the uncorrected for their amendment. How many bookes have Francis the first and Henry the second Kings of France sent forth to light. How many benefits have the Republique of Scholars had from the Grand Duke of Tuscanies Bibliotheque: and how much more advantage would all the world receive from such an Index of the Pontifical Library, which is of splendidly royal.
Other Libraries there are also in Rome, as that of the Capitol. That which appertained to the Cardinal Sirleto now to Cardinal Colonna, valeued at 20000. Crownes: That of the Family of Sforza, and that of the Farnesi, abounding with Greek Authors.
We pass by many Libraries of private persons no less replenished with rare Books as that of Fulvio Orsino. That of Aldo Manutio (who passed to a better life at green yeers) consisting of 80▪ thousand Books. We must observe though▪ that Fulvio Orsino in the yeer 1600. added his to the Library of the Pope. And that Ascanio Colonna (never enough [Page 222] to be praised) bought that of Sirleto for 14 thousand Crownes deputing to it intelligent Keepers with honest stipends, that it may rather dayly increase, then at all diminish.
The great Duke of Florence his noble Library is known to have good numbers of Greek Books, and that of Urbino, of Mathematical Writers. That of the Malatesti is in Cesena in the Minorites Convent. In Bologna that of the preaching Fathers. In Venice that of the Republique. In Padoua is that of Gio Vicenzo Pinello famous enough: but lets return to the Libraria Vaticana.
'Tis certainly concluded that the Gentiles usually preserved their Books in the publique Libraries as well as private, & tis no less evident that the Catholick Church from Christs time to ours had alwaies in divers places sacred Libraries to advantage students: wherefore St. Augustine in the Narration which he makes, De persecutione Arrianorum in Ecclesia Alexandrina saies, that in the Christian Churches there were Libraries, and that with the greatest care they preserved their Books: and accuseth the impiety of the Arrians amongst other things for their taking away and burning the Books of the Church. Saint Jerome likewise makes mention of the same Libraries. when writing to Pamachius by his Books against Jovinianus he saies that he kept in the Churches Libraries Eusebius also in his 119 Book at the 11 Chapter writeth, that the Church had holy Books in the Oratories, and that in Dioclesians dayes, (to the end the name of Christian might be wholly extinguished) the Oratories were overthrowen, and the books burnt nor does there want conjectures hereof from the holy Scripture for that Saint Paul writing to Timothy, commands him to transport with himself his Books to Rome, chiefly those in parchment: and in the first to the Corinthians, he testifies that in the Corinthian Churches, they used to read the Prophetick books. Eusebius in his 5 book of the Ecclesiastical history at the 10th. Chapter saies, that the Apostle Saint Eartholomew going to prea ch the gospel to the Indians, left there the Gospel of Saint Matthew writ by his own hand: Which very copy, Origene afterwards found in the Indies, and from thence carryed it (as Saint Jerome averrs) to Alexandria, when he also brought from the East the Canonical books of the old Testament. Lastly the Hebrews diligently conserved their sacred books, and on every Sabbath read the Books of Moses in their Synagogues wherefore tis reasonable enough to believe, that the Christians have alwaies observed their rule, of diligently copying and preserving the prophetick books those of the Apostles and those of the Evangelists: But the places where these books were layed up, were not alwaies called by the same name, but sometimes Archiviunt a Treasury of Rolls, scrinium a Coffer where evidences were kept, Bibliotheca or Libraria a Bibliotheque or Library as in se veral Authors appears.
Then indubitably they used to lay up in places deputed to that purpose the Memorials of greatest importance, the Books of the Bible of the old and new Testament, and the Books of the holy Fathers; many whereof written by their own Authors through this means have reached our times, and will continue to future Ages if God soplease,
And because the collecting and conserving those books, required a great expence as well in writers, as Inquisitors, and conservators, therefore the richest Christians cōmonly contributed every one [Page 223] some proportion and part, as a common stock for the Church to have the same effected.
And in particular we have great obligation to the Emperor Constantine the Great, who (as Eusebius recounts in his third Book of his life) without regard to the vast expence, made it his business to collect and secure the sacred Books, which in the times of the persecutions the Gentiles had wholy dispersed.
After which the gathering, keeping, and choosing Books, was particularly the charge of the Bishops and Priests, for which end they were wont to maintain Notaries, Stationers, and Women exercised and skilled in writing, as may be gathered from the life of Ambrosius and of Origene. Among all other Collectors of Books Pantenius the Master of the Alexandrian School is esteemed the most diligent: likewise Pamfilo the Priest and Martyr (as Eusebius relates) instituted and governed with great industry a fair Library, placing there the Books of Origene and such other good Books as he could get written by the hand: of which Caesarean Library St. Jerom against Rufinus takes notice. Furthermore Alexander the Bishop of Jerusalem got together a good quantity of Books, as of Betillus, Hippolitus, Caius and other Ecclesiastical writers, and with them composed a worthy Library, as Eusebius testifies, who also confesseth himself to have been assisted by the said Alexander in his own Ecclesiastical History.
And not to omit the diligence of some of later times in the like work, lets remember, that Pope Clement the first, successor to St. Peter, who wrote many Epistles profitable to the Roman Church, deputed seaven Scriveners in the seaven praecincts of Rome, who were maintained out of the Churches Revenne for no other thing then diligently to search out and write the Acts of the martyrs. And Anicetus the Pope made it his business to find out a secure place for the laying up the lives of the Martyrs wrote by those Scriveners. Pope Fabianus ordained seaven Deacons, for supervisors to those Notaries, to take the better care in executing the charge of collecting and true recital of the Martirs lives: Of which Scriveners the Actions of the Roman Councel under Silvester, give good testimony Pope Julius successor to Marcus who followed Sil. determined that the said Notaries abovenamed should diligently gather together, whatever appertained to the amplifying, and fortifiing of the holy Catholick Faith, & that all the things by them writ should be revised by the Primicerio, or chief, created to that purpose, who afterwards was to place and keep in the Church what he had approved.
Pope Hilary was the first (known) that built a Library, who erected two near, the Founts of the Laterano, wherein (for that in those times there were but few Books, and they at great price because wholly written by the hand) he caused the writings of the Roman Church, the decretal Epistles of Popes, the Actions of the Counsels, the recantations and opinions of the Hereticks, and the Books of the holy Fathers, to be layed up and preserved for the publique use of the Christians.
But to return to our purpose of the Vatican Library: we must know that beside the abovenamed Libraries, the Popes used so great diligence in collecting books, as they put together one greater than the two former in the Popes Palace on the Laterano, which remained [Page 224] there about one thousand yeers, till Clement the 5th. translating the Apostolick Sea into France, with it carryed the said Library in the Laterano to Avignon in France, which continued there about 120 yeers, till the difference was appeased between the Catholicks▪ Pope Martin the 5th. caused the said Library to be reconveyed to Rome, placing it in the Vatican, where his S. had then chosen and setled his Residence: where they were disposed confusedly without any order, and a good part lost. Whereto Sixtus the 4th. having regard, & it appearing to him insupportable, that so great a quantity of books should go to ruine through ill government, he built a place on purpose for them adorning it by all possible means, placing them methodically, and adding such other Books as he could come by, and ordered the Officers deputed to that end, to govern them with diligence, endowing it with a hundred Crowns a yeer in perpetuity, being the donative which the Colledge of writers of the Pontifical Letters was used to make the Popes yeerly, and this was bestowed on the Library Keepers for their diligence and pains. This then is the Vatican Library, filled with the most choise Books that could be had a great part written in parchment with the pen: others printed: and their number exceeds six thousand books.
Antiently the President of this Library was called Librario, then Cancellario, whose office was to collect with diligence not only the Books, but also to copy the Bulls, the Popes decrees, the Acts and Constitutions of the Synods, and to keep every thing exactly, because it appeared convenient, that the Cancellario or as he is now called the Secretary of the Pope, should have the managing and preserving of the Books, the Library being in those dayes as twere the Office of the Secretary or Chancery: but in our times the Offices of the Chancery and of the Library are divided.
They used to elect Men of the greatest knowledge and of good life for Presidents of the Library as Anastasius in the Life of Pope Gregory the second relates, which Gregory he saies was first President there who being sent to Constantinople by Pope Constantine to the Emperor Justinian the second, and being questioned by him he answered learnedly: and the Bibliothecary in the life of the said Gregory the second saies that he was from a boy brought up in the Lateranian palace, and being made Deacon by Pope Sergius took upon him the charge of the Library. at last Sixtus the 4th. on the 10 day of July 1475. being the sixth of his Papacy, created a perpetual Keeper to the Vatican Library investing him in that Office by his Bull.
Bartolomeo Platina of Cremona the Apostolick writer, and familiar of Sixtus the fourth was the first president to the Vatican Library, for which service he had 10 Crowns per Month for his maintenance, besides provision for his own Table with 3 servants and one horse, and the ordinary Vails, which the popes usually allowed to their Familiants, as Wood, Salt, Oyl, Vinegar, Candles, Brooms, and other the like things.
Bartolomeo Manfredo a Bolonian Doctor of the Canons was by Sixtus the 4th. annno. 1481: in the 11th of his Popedome elected to that Charge in lieu of the deceased Platina. This Manfredo was a Familiar acquaintance of the Popes, and wonderfully learned. And to add splendor to this Office the Pope ordained that the Presidents of the [Page 225] Library for the future should be the first Squires of the Roman Popes for ever, and should receive the accustomed honors and profits: first giving security to the Apostolick Chamber of ten thousand Duckats, and taking an Oath to keep faithfully and diligently the Library. After Manfredo these following were successively created.
Christophoro Persona a Roman Prior of Santa Balbina in anno 1484.
Giovanni Gionisii a Venetian in anno 1487.
A Spaniard who was Arch▪ deacon of Barcellona in anno 1492. Possibly this was that Girolamo Paolo Cathalano Canon of Barcellona Doctor of both Laws, who was Chamberlain of Alexander the sixth, whose books set forth and communicated the Practise of the Roman Chancery, printed anno 1493. being the second of the third Alexander.
Giovanni Fonsalia a Spaniard Bishop of Iteran, in anno 1493.
Volaterano Arch Bishop of Ragusa anno 1505.
Tomaso Ingeranni, or Fedra Volaterano anno 1510.
Filippo Beroaldo a Bolonian 1516.
Zenobio Azziaiolo a Florentine of the preaching order 1518.
Girolamo Alexandro dell Mota Arch Bishop Brundusian Cardinal 1537.
Augustino Stenco Eugubino Bishop of Chiama.
Marcello Cervino of Monte Pulciano Priest, Cardinal of the holy cross in Jerusalem, was created by Paul the third. He would not accept the stipend, nor the four sportule or Fees usually given to the Presidents of the Library but distributed those emoluments to the two Latin Correctors, and to him whose charge was to find out and place the Books.
Roberto de Nobili of Monte Pulciano Dean Cardinal, with the Title of Santa Maria in Dominica was created by Paul the fourth anno 1555.
Alfonso Caraffa Dean Cardinal of Santa Maria in Dominica, created by Paul the fourth Anno 1558.
Marc Antonio Amulio Priest Cardinal a Venetian Anno 1565.
Guglielmo Sirleto Priest Cardinal of Calabria the 20th day of May Anno 1582.
Antonio Caraffa. Priest Cardinal, with the Title of San Giovanni and Paulo a Neapolitan Anno 1585.
Guglielmo Alano Priest Cardinal an English man, created by Clement the 8th. Anno 1591.
Marc Antonio Colonna Bishop Cardinal, created by the same Clement Anno 1594.
Antonio Saulio Priest Cardinal created by the same Clement Anno 1597.
And because twas imposible for one single person to give sufficient attendance to the government of so many Books the same Sixtus the fourth gave to the President of the Library, two other perpetual Keepers, persons of good Faith, and diligence to assist in that charge, allowing to each 3 crowns salary per Moneth, and his Dyet, and the other abovenamed perqui [...]its, as also for one servant. The first of which were Giovanni Caldelli a Clerk of Lyons, and Pietro Demetrio of Luca, who was Reader in the Popes common Hall, created the 10th yeer of Sixtus his papacy; the first the 29th. of, April the second the first of May. Demetrio being dead, Julius the second, the [Page 226] sixth of July in the eighth yeer of his Pontificacy created Lorenzo Parmenio priest of the Chamber. This pope the 23d of August in the first yeer of of his Popedome granted a Load of Charcoals weekly to the said Keepers, but now for the whole yeer is allowed but 24 Load only: In the yeer 1535. Fausto Sabeo a Brescian Poet and Nicolo Magiorano Hidronteno succeeded these, the latter of whom being created Bishop of Mancpoli him succeeded Guglielmo Sirleto, and him his Brother Girolamo Sirleto, Federigo Ronaldo Valnease being created prothonotary followed Sabeo, and Marin Ronaldo Brother of the said Federigo succeeded to Girolamo Sirleto.
Furthermore the same Sixtus (that nothing might be wanting to the compleating the splendor of the pontifical Library) created three with the denomination of exquisite writers, the one in Greek a second in Latin, a third in Hebrew, with their Dyet, and four crowns a moneth, but Paulus the fourth doubled the greek Salary and added two other Greek writers, and one Latin, to the one of which Greek writers and to the Latin he assigned five Crowns by the Moneth, and two Sportule, which is a certain Fee payed to the Pope or Saint Peter, by every person that got the better in any suite in Law, but to the other Greek he assigned two Sportule and four Crowns only. He likewise ordained one Binder with provision of foure Crowns.
Lastly Marcello Corvino. President of the Library instituted two Correctors and Revisors of the Latin Books, between whom he divided the benefits accruing to the Presidents denying to retain them to himself as aforetold, and gave two sportule to each, being the four due to himself as president, assigning a Salary of five Crowns to the one and four to the other and the tenth Crown which remained to him of the ten crowne by the Moneth assigned to the presidents he deputed that for him whom Paul the 4th had instituted for sweeper, to whom the regalies were not granted. The first Latin Correctors were Gabriel Faerno of Cremona Nicolo Maggiorano, to whom Pius the 4th. added a Greek Corrector, giving to each of them ten Crowns of gold by the Moneth.
Of the Ceremony in kissing the feet of the
Roman Bishop.
CHAP. XI. Taken out of
GIOSEFFO STEPHANO Bishop of
ORIOLANO.
Wherein is shewed, that for good reasons the Pope wears a Cross upon his Shoe or Slipper, and the Christian People kiss his Feet.
AMong the many things the Popes had given them to bear and carry for ensignes of Glory and dignity by the Emperor Constantine the Great, with which for long time together they have gone adorned, ware a pair of Slippers made of the whitest linnen cloth for the Ornament of their Feet. (which Slippers we may name Pumpes for their being so apted to the Feet) whereof we read an especial memorial in the Acts of San Silvestre, for that the Emperor Constantine commanded that the Popes of Rome should cloth their Feet with the purest Linnen, in imitation of the high Priests and antient Prophets, who we read in the fifth Book of Herodian were thus vested. And tis most certain, that the Sandals or slippers of the Roman Bishop are alwaies bedecked with some singular Ornament, differing from those which ordinary Bishops wear at the celebration of their Mass, otherwise how could the blessed Antidius near Segeberto in Anno 418 distinguish the Pope by the slippers he had on, nor could that have happened, if those of the Pope had not had a peculiar Mark differing from those of the Bishops. San Bernardo in his forty second Epistle declares that the slippers are a part of those Ensignes which the Popes are obliged to wear at the solemnizing of Mass.
The same thing also is averred by Innocenzo III. in his first Book de Divinis Officiis, in the 24th Chapter. Ivo Cornatense, in the 76th. Epistle, and in his speech de significatione Indumentorum. Rabano in his first Book the 22d. Chapter Durando in his third Book the 28th. Chapter and many others.
And although rhe Roman High Priests antiently used this sort of Shooing with the whitest Linnen, we must nevertheless, confess, that now the Custome is changed, and in lieu thereof are worne a certain red sort of shooing, with a cross wrought on them the occasion of which mutation may be attributed partly to the reverence of the People, and partly to the consideration of the Popes Person.
Wherein will be manifested the humility of the Pope, who knowing all Persons prone to the kissing of his Feet, desired to have the sign [Page 228] of the Cross fixed thereon, to the end that so much honour might be payed to the most holy sign of the Cross rather than to his own proper person: And that his Holiness would also reduce into the minds of the faithfull which kiss his feet, the passion and death of our Saviour. With great Judgment then, most honest intention and good end, have they introduced this wearing the signe of the Cross upon the popes Sandals, since that the kissing of the cross is an Act of the Reverence born to it, used in the most holy Church antiently, whose custom it was in that manner to reverence not only the holy Crosse, but also the holy Images of Christ and of the Saints, the Visage and heads of which Images the faithfull of old accustomed to approach, in token of respect and honour, as Niceforus in his seaventeenth Book the 25th. Chapter recounts, and Zonara in the third tome of the Life of Theodofilo.
The sublime Ensigne of the Romans made in manner of the Cross of the Saviour, which was wont to be born before Constantine the Emperor, and was adored by the Senate and the Souldiery, is called Laboria, perchance for that in Latine it signifies Labour, to wit for that that blessed Ensigne put the Souldiers in good heart and remembrance, when they were near toyled with fighting, or for that they bore up that Ensign when they marched, or els for that they mustred the Souldiers under that Banner to signifie to them the pains they must take under it, as Paolo Diacono, relates in the 11th. of his History, and Nicolo Prinio in the consults of the Burgari, at the 7th. Chap and 23. Paolino Nolano demonstrates very clearly in the 42d. Epistle, the Custome, which was, that the princes and great Lords kissed the Cross, submitting to it all the Banners of their glory, and worldly Majesty.
Nor have they born this Reverence to the Cross alone, but also to all the Instruments of the Passion of our Lord, as Sant Ambrosius in a discourse he makes of the death of Theodosius, averreth, touching one of the Nayls which was pierced through the Feet of our Saviour. To come then to the other Head, wherefore we judge it convenient the change of the white slippers or sandals, for slippers or sandals with the Cross wrought on them; we say that herein the Popes have endeavoured to demonstrate expresly the Image of the Apostolick charge because they havinng received a charge to teach to all the world, and to preach the Gospel, have likewise adorned their feet with the signe of peace and of the Gospel▪ that so they may walk perfect through the World in vertue of the signe of the crosse. Isaiah the Prophet saith thus, Beautifull are the Feet of those who preach Peace, and publish good tidings, as if that forseeing this Usage, he should wonder, how the heads of the Christian People should find out so convenient an ornament to put upon their Feet, so that the Nations beholding them should not only remain full of gladnesse for the good newes which they had heard from them; but should also perceive a certain content for having seen them all beautifull, all adorned, and signalized to the very feet with the figure of the holy Cross. Because tis usual to weigh in qualified persons, all their Actions, all their words, all their Vestments and habits to their very feet; and so the Bridegroom praising his Spouse in the Canticles, sets down as a great concern, that having [Page 229] fair shoes she walked graciously. Tertullian in his Book of the habits of women, puts a difference between Culto Neatness, and Ornamento, Ornament, saying that neatness consists in the quality of the Vests as of Gold, Silver, and the like habiliments, but that Ornament consists in the disposition of the parts of that body which wears it. Then the Roman Bishops, who rconcile and make Peace by way of their Letters and Ministers to all Nations to the great astonishment of all, have obtained and pursued the one and the other of the aforenamed parts, that is to say Neatness and Ornament.
Furthermore the sign of the Cross is made on the forehead and Breasts of the faithfull, to the end that as Augustine saith upon the 30th Psalm, they may not fear to confess the faith, and having overcome the Devil, they may carry the Banner of their Victory in their forehead, therefore also is the same signe worne upon the feet of the Pope, that he by that sign may be directed in that good way through which he is to lead all the People of God, thereby to shew unto the Pope, that to him was given this holy priviledge to be our guide by means of the Cross: wherein (saith Saint Austin in the 10th Sermon de Sanctis Tom 10) are contained all the Mysteries and all the Sacraments, he fortifies (as we may say) his feet with the Cross, to the end that he shewing the way and we walking in it, none may wander from good thoughts. It may also be said that the Pope bears a Cross upon his feet, that in all persecutions and dangers all his people may recur securely to his Feet, where remedy may be had to overcome the difficulties, and doctrine to oppresse heresies if need require, as tis written in Deutronomy at the 33d. Chapter, Qui appropinquat pedibus accepit de doctrina ejus. Weighing all which considerations, with their foundation in the passion of Christ, very rationally have the Popes placed this signe upon their feet, to evidence these mysterious significations. Which is so antient and firm, that in the old Images we see no Pope drawn or carved who hath not also the cross upon his Feet: from which considerations it appears manifestly, that the perverse and wicked Hereticks of our times are in a great error, for expressing their dislike of the Popes wearing a Cross upon his feet, saying that tis an undervaluation and want of due reverence payed to the Cross.
For answer whereunto by their favour: Is it not true (that as Cirillus in 3. Tomo contra Julianum saies) the old usage was to paint Crosses on the entrances into houses, and that (as Nazianzenus in his oration against the same saies) on the garments of the Souldiers were signed Crosses come from heaven, and that the Church to succor dying persons with spiritual help, used to mark their feet with the signe of the Cross, and that twas usual to mark the bodies of beasts with the Cross, as saies Sainctus Severus de Morbibus bono: and San Chrysostome, in his demonstration Quod Deus sit homo. Did they not mark the houses, the publick places, the Vests, the Armories, and finally divers other usual things with the Cross, as Leoncio Cipriottio against the Jews declares, to the end that in every place and in every action, we may rub up our drowsie memories with the passion of Christ our Lord: And shall we afterwards say, that it expresseth little reverence to the Cross in placing it upon the feet of Christs Vicar, by which we not only are minded of the passion of our Saviour [Page 230] when we behold it, but intend that thereby is signified, that we ought not alone to submit to the Cross, and tread down all worldly passions, which to the purpose are expressed in Scripture with the name of feet, but also for the Love of the passion of Christ to esteem at nought what ever happens under the Moon. The which cannot be so well signified, by placing the Cross in any other places but on the Feet of the Pope, to kiss which all the faithfull strivingly run together.
GIOVANNI STEPHANO to the purpose of the Exaltation of the Pope speaks after this manner.
The Reason wherefore they carry his Holiness upon Mens Shoulders
TIs not from the purpose to say somewhat of the Lifting up of the Pope, since that all old Authors when they speak of the Creation of any King or Emperour, say that he was elevated and it may be that Claudianus speaks to this sense. ‘Sed mox cum solita miles te voce levasset.’
Nor was this the custom of the Barbarous Nations only, but even of the Romans themselves who having chosen any One for their Emperor, lifted him on high, and carryed him upon their Shoulders: so saies Ammianus Marcellinus in his 22 book speaking of Julianus made Emperor by the Souldiers of France; so sets forth Cornelius Tacitus in his 20 book and the same likewise speaks Cassiodorus of the Goths in his 20th Book Variacum Epist. 31. This custom Adon of Vienna manifests in the sons of Clotharus: Julianus Capitolinus speaking of the Giordani: and Herodian in his seventh book treating of the same. In which time, they did not only exalt the Roman Princes as aforesaid, and Princes of other Nations, but likewise the praefects of the City whom to honour the more they usually drew up and down the streets in a Caroach with an officer going before, who proclaimed, that the praefect came; and this is clearly demonstrated by Siniachus in his first book & Cassiodorus in his 6th. from 24. But the Roman Bishops who from God have chief authority over the eternal way, for demonstration of their dignity, were wont to be conveighed through the City in a certain Chariot, honestly, or meanly clothed, as Ammianus Marcellinus, in his 27th book avers in his conceipt of Damascus and Urcisinus to this point in that time when Pretestatus put on the Pretesta (which was a Robe the chief Magistrate of Rome wore when they sate in Majesty) being then designed Consul: he preposed the Bishoprick of the Christians to the Consulship of the Roman people, and was wont to say to San Damascus the Pope (as San Girolamus also relates in his Epistle to Pammacchius) [Page 231] make me Bishop of Rome, and I will soon make my self a Christian, from which words we may comprehend, that even in those daies the Pontifical dignity moved the minds of the principal and greatest persons being that the Consulacy was a dignity to which all others gave place, as in more Epistles Cassiodorus shews in the 10th. book and Protestatus so he might have been high Bishop of the Christians would not only have deserted his old false Religion, but also Consulship.
That it was the manner of the antient Priests to pass in Coaches for greater reputation, Tacitus in his 12th book clearly proves, who speaking of Agrippina, saies, That shee (to agrandize her reputation this way) was drawn to the Campidoglio in a Caroach a thing then only permitted to the Priests and holy Druides for their dignity. This custom was likewise used by the Virgins (as may be collected from the first book of Artimedorus, his Positions) and chiefly of the Vestals, who were carryed in Litters, attended by many servants with great Pomp, as Saint Ambrose relates in his first Epistle to Valentinian.
But the Romon Bishops, besides the Chariot and Coach wherein they publiquely passed through the City, had also a supportable Chair wherein being sate it was carryed upon the shoulders of Men deputed to that service, and who lived upon that profession which is manifest enough, not only from that place of Duoaio, where he saies, that in the fifth Synod, was placed the Chair or Throne of the Apostolick confession, but also more clearly from the most antient Roman Order written before Gelasius the Popes time, wherein we finde expressions to this sence viz.
When the Pope is entred into the Church, he does not instantly advance to the Altar, but first goes into the Vestry sustained by Deacons, who received & assisted him, while he descended from his Chair and to that effect the said Order several times relates the Ceremony of placing the Pope in the Chair, when he was to take any Journey and to sustain him by the Arms in descent from the Chair, being arrived at the place where he resolved to stay.
In which words is also to be observed, that the said Order calls this Pontifical Chair in Latin Sellare, which properly signifies a Majestick Throne made for dignity, it being a Chair wrought with Art and proportionable thereto.
As to the Popes being born up by hands, tis easily manifested, that he was so supported not only at his descent from the Chair, but also upon several other occasions when not at all in the Chair, which is proved by the examples of many Popes: As Stephen the second (saies Palatina, and Francesco Giovanetto in the 90th. Chapter was carried upon shoulders in the Church of Constantine, and then in the Laterano and Adrian the second was so born up in the Laterano by the Clergy and by the chief of the Nobility the Comunalty then contending with the Clergy and Nobility for that honourable Office, as appears in the descriptions the 63d. Chapter, which begins. Cum Adrianus Secundus, &c. And Gregory the ninth was so sustained in the Laterano, laded with Gemmes and Gold.
At which custome none ought to wonder, since so long before prophesied by Esaiah in the 49th Chapter be these words. Et efferent [Page 232] filios tuos in Uluis & filias super humeros portabunt, in our English Translation tis thus rendred.
And they shall bring thy Sons in their Arms, and thy Daughters shall be carryed upon their shoulders.
The occasion for which custome proceeds from the great reverence wherewith the Princes of the World ought to observe the Presidents of the Church, which Princes ought not to omit any convenient honour due to the Church, and so consequently to the head thereof. It stands with good reason too, that the Pope should be born up on high, to the end that on the one side he may the better see and bestow his Benediction on the People comitted to him, and that the People may on the other side behold their Head, acknowledging him for Gods Vicar, and thence fortifie themselves in the confession of the Catholick Faith.
The same PIGHIO speaks of the Coronation of the Pope in this sence.
ALL Princes for demonstration of the Majesty of Empire have worn a golden Crown. David who reigned before Homer and before all the antient writers at this day extant, had such a Crown as is proved in the 12th. Chapter of the second Book of Kings, the which he took to himself from one of the Cities of the Am [...]onites by him overcome in warr, which who desires may read in the words of the cited Text. Ciassare King of the Medes (as saies Zonara, in the first Tome) sent a certain beautifull Daughter of his own to Cyrus with a golden Crown upon her head, and with the whole province of Media for Dowry. The Romans triumphing carryed a Crown of Gold, as Golliote relates, which might seem improperly and erroneously declared, in respect all historians write that the Emperors Triumphing were crowned with Lawrel, if Tertullian did not remove this doubt in his Tract entituled De Corona Militis, and Pliny in his 21st. Book the third Chapter saies, that the Radiant Crowns were composed with Leaves of Gold and silver. Zonara in the second Tome describing the Pompe of a Triumph saies: that while triumphing they carryed two Crowns, one was placed on the head of the Emperor, which was of Lawrel, the other which was of Gold and enterwoven with pretious stones, was born up over the head of the Emperour by the hands of a publique Minister, who stood upon the same Chariot whereof Juvenal speaks in the tenth Satyr, saying.
[Page 233]And Valerius Paterculus, saies that this Crown of Gold, was of the colour of a Rain-bow, to demonstrate the signe of a certain Divinity, speaking of Augustus Caesar Octavins in his second Book. As also of the same make clear mention, calling it Radiante, and Lucide, Suetoninus, in the life of Augustus the 44th Chapter. Pliny in his Panegyrick, the unknown Author in the Panegyrick dedicated to Maximilianus and Latinus Peccatus in Panegyrick, whose words would take up too much room to set down here.
Moreover Ammianus Marcellinus in the 17th. book treating of the sharp pointed Pyramids, saies that they were wont to place Crowns on the heads of statues: which he again confirms in the 24th Book, from which testimonies Lazius collects in his 9th Book of Commentaries of the Roman Republique, that our Predecessors derived the custome of placing on the heads of the Images of Saints in the Churches, Crowns figured in the form of the raies of the Sun, chiefly for that those images being adorned with such Crownes, seemed to have, I know not what kind of splendour and Divinity: which reason, though it be not, altogether from the purpose, yet tis not altogether to be, maintained: for that we rather think, that this usage and custome had its original from that splendour which hath been often seen miraculously, to shine on the heads of the Saints: Being that (as Abdias in the 5th. Book, and Eusebius in the second of his Histories relate) the Apostles were often overshadowed with such a Light, as human eye could not behold them, as of old fell out to Moses, whose Face (when he had had that near conference with God) did shine so bright, that Aaron and the children of Israel, were afraid to come near him, as is recorded in the 34th Chapter of Exodus.
To return then to our subject. The Persian Kings had a Crown to be worn on their heads which Zonara sets down in greek by its proper name, which can neither be commodiously expressed either in Latin or vulgar tongue: and it was a capital offence among the Persians for any one to put the Kings Crown upon his head as Dion Chrysostomus denotes in his first oration De libertate & servitute. Likewise the priests of the Gentiles wore a crown upon their heads, for demonstration of that repute which appertained to the splendidness and maintenance of their Sacerdotal office: whence the Antients were stupified, at a suddain view of the great Priest of the Comani, to whom (as Strabo writes) was granted the first honour next the King, and to wear a Royal Crown. Besides in Emesa a City of Phoenicia, the Priests went clad with a long robe, having a Crown of pretious stones of various colours in token of Majesty upon their heads. Which Ornament Antoninus being made Emperor of the Romans, by the multitude, the Souldiery and the Priests of the Sun, would not part with again, as Herodianus in libro quinto clearly proves: and so afterwards the Emperors of Constantinople triumphing, elected this ornament, which was called by a proper name as we read in the life of Basilius Porfirogenitus. Triumphum duxit tiara tecta; quam illi tuphum appellant, although some modern Authors call it Calipora, as saies Niceforus Gregorius in libro sexto.
Or Bishops then having two royal Dignities, to wit the spiritual and temporal, deservedly wear a double crown, as Innocent the third [Page 234] in his third sermon De coronatione Pontificis, confirms, saying that the Popebears the Mitre in token of the spiritual power, and the Crown in testimony of the Temporal, both which are conferred upon him by God omnipotent, King of Kings and Lord of Lords.
But let us examine a little whether the Mitre, and the Crown, are Ornaments adapted to the Ecclesiastical customs.
The mitre by Suidas is called the swathe or Fillet of the head, bound about with gold and silver as Brissonius explains: and Eusebius in his second book, the first Chapter, calls it a shelter; with which Saint James the Apostle called the Brother of our Lord, was suddainly adorned, when by the Apostles he was chosen and consecrated Bishop of Jerusalem: which Ornament, although it took beginning with Aaron Priest of the Hebrew Law, is nevertheless received into the Christian Church, to the end that therewith the Bishops of all Nations may be adorned. Policrates Ephesinus wore the Mitre (as Eusebius in the 31st Chapter of the third Book relates) as Priest of Ephesus: and likewise the other Priests wore almost all the Ornaments of the antient Priests, as the Robe, and the Mitre, that they might appear the more adorned and majestick saies Eusebius in his Book; whereof Amalarius, Rabanus, and others the gravest Authors treat more amply.
What we have spoken touching the Mitre is without contradiction, and is held for truth by the consent of many and sundry Nations, but what is to be spoken touching a Kingdome, and a Royal Crown, is not so perspicuous to all, wherefore to our best power we will endeavour to manifest the same.
Then first is to be observed, that tis the common opinion of all, that this sort of Ornament upon the head of the Pope had its original from the Emperor Constantine the Great, as appears in the Acts of San Silvestre the Pope: the same opinion is also embraced by all other Roman Bishops, as by Leo the ninth in the 13. chapter of his Epistle against the presumption of Michaele, and Innocent the third in his first Sermon of the blessed Silvester, confirms That Constantine the great at his departure from Rome to Constantinople, would have bestowed his own Crown upon San Silvester, which he refused, but in lieu thereof put a covering upon his head entirely circular, and a little after Innocent follows in words to this sence: And for this cause the Roman Bishop, in testimony of Empire, wears a Regal crown called in Latin Regnum, and in testimony of his Pontificacy he wears a Mitre, which is most convenient, for him in all times and places universally, because the spiritual power hath been ever esteemed for the Prior, more worthy and more great then the Temporal. And reason will yeeld, that San Silvester would not wear that Crown, but such a one as only covered the Temples, in respect his head was shaven as the Popes ought to be. Which shaving gave good reason that twas not decent to wear such a Diadem, but rather that circular covering which he chose named properly Tiara Phrigia, whereof Juvenal speaks in his sixth satyr saying.
Which Ornament may be supposed to be borrowed either from [Page 235] Phrygia or Phoenicia, as we please, because the Phrigians had their original from the Phoenicians. And that this was given the Pope by the Emperor Constantine the great, is most evident in the Acts of San Silvester, where the Emperor reckons up those things, that he had bestowed on the Pope, and being come to this, gives it the name Phrygium, as twas its proper name; but in respect twas not manifest to all, what thing Phrygium denoted, he explains himself in the sence by us set down, saying ‘et Phrygium nempe tegmen capitis sive Mitram.’
This particular required so much explanation, for that Theodorus Balsamones, confounding the signification of Phrygium, by joining it with the subsequent Lorum, which imports a perfect different thing hath caused many to erre in beleeving that Phrygium and Lorum put together do denote Pallium, the Cope which Arch- Bishops wear by the concession of the highest Bishop. But tis not convenient for us to dwell longer upon the dispute, let the intelligent read the latin Itinerary in this place, where they'l meet an ample discourse upon the significations of these words.
Other authors will have, that this Crown came not from Constantine but from Clodoveo, as they labour to draw from Segeberto under the yeer of our Lord 550. who speaks to this sence, Clodoveus the King received from Anastasius the Emperor, the Codicils of the Consulacy, a Crown of Gold with Jewels, and the red garment, and on that day he was called Consul and King, but the same King sent to Saint Peter at Rome the Crown of Gold with the Jewels, the Royal Ensigne, which is called Regnum.
Armonius also confirms in his first book the 24th. Chapter, that from Clodoveus the Pope had the Crown: and Anastasius the Library Keeper under Pope Hormisda, testifies that Saint Peter received many gifts: In whom I have read, that in the yeer 776 that Philip the first Pope and Constantine the second Pope were both consecrated in San Peters Church (but we must observe that the antient Authors under the word consecration understand also the ceremony of coronation) for that when they say, that Charles the great was consecrated Emperor, they also by it understand he was Crowned, whence we may draw, that the Coronation of the Pope, had its rise in long since past times, since that in the yeer 683. under Agathone the first, and Benedict the second, was raised the custome of giving moneys at the coronation of the Pope, and of expecting the authority of the Emperor. Eugenius the second was crowned the 22d. of May in the yeer 824. Benedict in the yeer 855, Formosus the first in 891. But after Clement which happened in anno 1044. all succeeding Popes were crowned as ( Panuinus observes) in such a manner, as by it from that time forwards, the Prophecy of Isaiah in the sixty first Chapter may be well known to be fulfilled, where he saies as our English Translation renders it: For he hath clothed me with the garments of Salvatio, he hath covered me with the Robe of Righteousnesse, as a Bridegroom decketh himself with ornaments: The Italian saies, they (meaning the Priests) are crowned as Bridegroom: after that the Pope is elevated to this supremedignity [Page 236] he wears the garments of eternal peace, and a Crown upon his head: This is that Son of Eliachim spoken of from God by Isaiah the Prophet in the 22d. Chapter, to whom even at that time God promised the Robe the Crown and the Key, as you may read in the 20. 21, 22, 23, and 24. verses of that Chapter and so forwards: The Crown is an Ensigne of Empire, the Robe is a signe of familiar government, the which things are found in their excellency in our Pope. So in the 14th Chapter of the Revelation of Saint John, at the 14th verse tis said that Christ (named the Son of man) appeared sitting on a white cloud, adorned with a golden Crown upon his head. And in the 19th. of the Revelations about the 11th. verse tis said, that the same Word of God appeared upon a white horse, with many Regal Crowns upon his head and all his Friends, as may be read in the subsequent verses.
For this occasion principally were these significations by Crowns to wit that Christ through his Wisdom (signified by the figure of a Crown of Gold) hath obtained victory over all Creatures, and subjected them to his Dominion. So likewise the Roman Bishop who is ouer all Nations, who hath brought all the People under his authority, (by the consignation and power of God) deservedly puts on the covering of his head three Crowns, thereby demonstrating that in glory, Authority, and great works, he surpasseth all the other Kings and Princes of the world.
After so many fore-passed Popes, Paulus the second created in the yeer 8465. of the noble Venetian Family Barbi, as he was of a fair aspect and great Spirit, so he took great care to adorn the papal Mitre, with pretious Jewels and curious workmanship. Lastly let us advertise the Reader that in those breifs written by Caesar Costni in the third chapter of the first book of his various doubts deceives himself, where he would maintain that the Popes bearing a Mitre with three Crowns proceeds from those mysterious significations by him alleaged, when indeed there is no necessity of them and let thus much suffice.
Of the holy yeer of Jubile which is celebrated in
ROME every twenty fifth year.
The Narration of
P. M. GIROLAMO da CAPUGNANO of the preaching Order. Extracted from the Book of the Holy Yeer. CHAP. XII.
GOD granted to the Jewes divine benefits indeed, whereupon afterwards that Nation boasted, saying, That his divine Majesty had not treated other People after that manner: But those graces which the Church our Mother hath received from the goodness [Page 237] of God do far surpass and exceed the Benefits bestowed upon the Hebrew People: For that the Lord that she might be clean and adorned in his sight, gave the blood of his only Son to wash her, and the Treasure of his Wisdome to beautifie her. Among the other benefits conferred on the Hebrew Synagogue, that of the yeer of Jubile was most excellent, called most holy, for that it was the yeer of remission and of the commencement of all things, which the Omnipotent God ordained to be from 50 to 50 yeers. The like grace being due to our Church the Spouse of Christ (though with a different end, for that the Synagogue attended only to temporal affairs, and the holy Church to spirituals singly) by divine disposition she thought convenient to ordain also the yeer of Jubile, though at first only from 100. yeers to 100. yeers. perhaps to draw to good use, the antient diabolick custom of the celebration of the secular Games, which to this end were celebrated every hundredth yeer in Rome, with a preceding general invitation from Cryers, who proclaimed through the streets come to the games, the which none ever saw since, nor shall again: which drew into the City of Rome infinite People of all Nations for the service of the devil: And all those Nations since the institution of the yeer of Jubile, render themselves at Rome though with much better reason viz. to serve the true God, for the salvation of their own souls: nor ought our pains seem strange to any, for what is said concerning the mutation of evil into good, because that not only in this, but in divers other occasions the holy Church hath had this aime, to consecrate that to God, which the foolish generations had before time dedicated to Satan, as may be seen in divers Temples of Rome, now dedicated to the true Lord, and his Saints, which were formerly the Temples of Idols used for the distribution of candles, and to make their Feasts, as in San Pietro in Vincola, the first of August, the first of those ceremonies was made in Rome, in honour of Februa by the Romans taken for a Goddess, the other in memory of the triumph of Augustus Caesar. We find that Boniface the 9th. in the yeer 1300. published the yeer of Jubile by his Bull, wherein he declares as a Restorer rather then an Inventor or institutor of this yeer: And tis no wonder, that we find no firm testimony of its institution before that time, because the Church hath had so many persecutions, and so great toiles, that tis a miracle that any antient Memorials are preserved rather then a wonder that some are lost. At that time then, the Pope in writing divulged this yeer, conceding entire and plenary remission of offences and punishments every hundredth yeer, which number of (Centum) one hundred, bears also a certain sense of returning to good from evil, as is fully proved by Girolamus and Beda, principal Ecclesiastical writers.
Clement the sixth at the Instance of the Romans reduced Jubile to every fiftieth yeer, chiefly for that the life of man is so short, that very few arrive to one hundred yeers, and for that in the number quinqua ginta fifty, are contained many mysteries pertinent to the Christian Religion; but principally it signifies remission and pardon, the proper effect of the Jubile. Moreover the Jewish synagogue had its Jubile every 50. yeers, so that if for no other reason, at leastwise that the Synagogue might not appear richer then the Church twas [Page 238] fit, that she should likewise have a Jubile every fifty yeers.
Urban the sixth reduced it to thirty three yeers for the increase of the Church treasure, afterwards to be disposed of by Saint Peter and his successors on the like occasions. But last of all Paul the second reduced it to every 25th yeer, and so Sixtus the fourth his successor observed it, as in like manner have all following Popes done. T [...]e which we must believe was made for many considerations, and chiefly for these, for that the world as it grows old becomes worse both in quantity and quality of Life▪ so that through the thousand dangers which alwaies threaten life, and through the infinite Sins wherein many Creatures are involved, it hath appeared good to reduce the time of Remission to a shorter time, whereby to offer frequent invitations to all, to accept the spiritual Medicine of Redemption of so great vertue) and to fly the works of iniquity.
As to what appertains to the name, tis to be observed, that it may be called in Latin Jobileus & Iobileus, of which the last is least used, notwithstanding that by the vulgar, tis more frequently called Giubileo than otherwise: This word is not derived from Giubilo, which signifies Mirth and content (although in truth it ought to be a yeer of rejoycing) but from the hebrew word Jobel, wich is as much as to say a Trumpet or Sacbut, for that the Israelites the seventh month before the fiftieth yeer used to proclaim the yeer of Jubile with the sound of Trumpets: furt hermore the Hebrew word Jobel also signifies remission and beginning, the proper actions for the yeer of Jubile, for then the Jews remitted all debts, and returned all things to their first state.
The Pope cannot concede greater indulgences, then those which are granted in the yeer of Jubile, for then they open the treasury of the Church, and bestow on every one as much as is absolutely necessary for him, pardoning to him sins and penances, as well imposed as not imposed, freeing of him wholly and absolutely from purgatory, yea although he should have forgottē his mortal sins in his confession or that he should not have confessed the Venial sins (for tis not of necessity to make cōfession of Venial sins although such must suffer pains in purgatory for them, if they be not in some way cancelled in this world) in such manner, that the soul that in that time shall part from the body, doth instantly fly to enjoyment of the selicity of Paradise.
Our Jubile hath certain [...]imilitudes with that of the Jewes, for that they proclaimed the yeer before, so do we ours: That they published in the Piazza [...]s, we ours in the Churches: that they with Trumpets, we ours with the voice of the Preachers: In that they left the Land unmanured, ours by the merits of Christ and his Saints supplies our Labour: in that Servants became free, in ours we acquire spiritual liberty with pardon of sins and penances, in that they redeemed their Credits, in ours we receive pardon for our offences: in that sould possessions returned to their first Patrons, in ours our crimes being cancelled the power and virtue of the soul is vivi [...]ied: in that banished persons returned to their Countrey, and in ours, who departs this life, immediately ascends to the heavenly Countrey. [Page 239] Boniface the eighth opened the doors of the Church Vaticano, and bestowed most ample indulgences of all sins; Clement the sixth, added the doors of the Church Lateranense, ordaining as is above declared. Paulus the second afterwards added Santa Maria Maggiore and San Paolo, in the Via Ostiense, for visitation. Gregory the 13th. in anno 1575. ordained, that who would participate the grace of the Jubile, should first communicate in the yeer of Jubile: allplenary indulgences are understood to be suspended with certain mutations of words, of which the Authors treating on the Jubile, speak to that purpose.
The Hebrews proclaimed their Jubile the 10th day of the seaventh moneth of the forty and ninth yeer. Ours, we publish on Ascention day in the yeer preceding the twenty fifth yeer, upon two pulpits in the Church San Pietro, reading the Popes Bull in Latin and the vulgar.
We begin our Jubile, on the Vigil of the birth day of our Lord in the evening, when the Pope with great solemnity opens the door of the Church San Pietro, which at all other times stands continually walled up: and he causeth the Lords Cardinals at the same time in the same manner, to open the doors of the other deputed Churches, all which doors (the yeer ended) are again shut up.
In the holy yeer, that is to say the Jubile, resort so great concourse of People from all Countreys to Rome, that historians write, that at the time of the Jubile of Pope Boniface, Rome was so full of people, that one could hardly pass in the City, though so great: and in the yeer 1505. the feet of Gregory the thirteenth, in one morning were kissed by thirteen thousand persons. Clement the 8th. in anno 1600. would needs wash the feet of divers Prelates, and other poor strangers come to the Jubile: and the most illustrious Cardinals among which were Montalto and Farnese expressed great charity and humility to poor pilgrims.
That tis convenient to celebrate the Jubile in Rome, rather then any other City is maintained by pregnant reasons: Rome is the most worthy and noble of all other Cities and we therefore understand when we name Citta or City, without any other appellation, that it must be Rome. She hath had the Empire, is the head, the Mistris, and a compendium of the World. She is full of Riches: hath beauty in her Scite, her Country, fertility of soyl, great comodiousness from the Navigation of the Tyber, and the proximity of the Sea. She is the common Countrey of all, and in her are of all Nations, and every people may there find a proper Church for their own Nation, as in deed most Countreys have. There Religion flourisheth more than elsewhere as appears by the infinite Priests and Fryers, which there at leastwise in their diuine duties, if not continually praise the Lord and pray for all. There the Churches are much visited, the Poor releived, the virgins married, and many other pious works performed worthy of perpetual memory. She is a City of singular sanctity, and in her are placed the most noted things appertaining to our Religion as the Manger wherein our Lord was layed at his birth, the swa [...]ling clothes, the Cradle, the garment, the Coronation Robe, the Crown of thorns, the Nailes, the Iron of the Launce, the eross▪ and the Title of Christ. In it are bodies of Apostles, of Martyrs, [Page 240] of Confessors, of Virgins, and infinite Reliques of Saints. She is the seat of the Pope, who is Prince of the Church, Vicar of God, Pastor of all, who when abroad, is beheld, admired and adored by all, every one seeking to kiss his Feet, wondring at the grandezza of the Cardinals, the gravity of the Bishops and the multitude of the Priests. A treasury of Indulgencies in Rome lye continually exposed to whomsoever needs them, where in former times the Christians were persecuted and more cruelly intreated then in any other place. And finally the Faith of the Romans was and is such, that even in the Apostles times, it was preached through the world, that is to say in that part only then styled Roman before twas Christianiz'd Rome, then (which in greek imports strength, in hebrew Greatness) being the most worthy place of the whole world, with good reason in her and not elsewhere, ought the Jubile to be celebrated.
The Narration of STEPHANO PIGHIO touching those military Ensignes, which the Pope useth to bestow on temporal Princes. CHAP. XIII.
THE Roman Bishop useth to bestow great honour on Princes, which for all that doth seldom happen, from the rarity of the occasions for which they are sought. This custom was most antient, begun with the foundation of the holy scripture in the history of the Maccabees (part of our Apocrypha) as we read in the 15th. Chapter of the second book of Maccabees: That Judas the Captain of the Israelite Army before he came to battail against Nicanor, saw in a Vision Onias the high Priest, holding up his hands towards Heaven, and praying for the whole people of the Jews: and Jeremias the Prophet, giving unto him the said Judas a sword of gold exhorting him to give battail in these words: Take this holy sword a gift from God, wherewith thou shalt wound thy adversaries, wherewith Judas being comforted, drew to battail on the sabbath against the Enemies, and behaved himself so well, that he slew not less then thirty five thousand Men, with Nicanor their Captain and so remained victorious. Hence then proceeds the custome, that the Roman high Priest every yeer, the night before the Nativity, before he begins the Duties, blesseth and consecrateth a sword, with the scabbard, the belt, and the pummel of gold, and a hat placed on the top of it, not made after the common sort, of Felt, but of the finest blew silk, with the whitest Ermine skinns round about it, and a Crown of gold enterwoven all over and set out with Jewels of good value. This is a noble donative wch. the Pope provides only of that night, to bestow it upon some Christian Prince, who either hath done or is to undertake some notable impress for the Christian Religion: [Page 241] nor is this without mysteries, but hath many, the which every Christian Prince ought to know, and consider.
The Roman Rivale teacheth us, that the sword so consecrated, tipifies the infinite power of God, which is in the eternal word, wherewith God hath created all things: Which word on that night put on human flesh, and to which the Father Eternal gave all Power, as himself declared about the time of his Ascention into heaven, and then consigned it to Saint Peter, and to his successors, whose duty tis to govern that holy Church then newly by him instituted, and consecrated with his own blood, against which hell should not prevail: Commanding that they should teach all those things which were learned from him, and to invite and intreat, all Nations (through Baptism and the Gospel) to enter this new City, out of which there is no salvation, and in which they must obey the Laws of the divine Empire. Who is not surprized with consideration of the dispensations of God, in the divine Majesties election of this City Rome, for the head and bulwark of the Christian Republique, which was upon the point at that time Head and Lady of the whole world. Whence Saint Peter the Governour of the first Church was destinated to this Province, and twas commanded to him, that the Cross should Triumph in the Campidoglio, to the end that thereby and thence the light of eternal truth might with the more facility be dispersed into all parts.
By the sword then thus consecrated is denoted that Empire, and that supreme power of government upon Earth, which Christ left to Saint Peter his Vicar, and to his successors; and that the Roman Bishop ought to be acknowledged for the head of Christianity, whom, all those that tender their own Salvation, ought to obey and serve in spirituals for the love of Christ.
Furthermore that sword signifies, what prudence, and Justice, every Prince ought to observe, and because the sharp point wounds where tis thrust on by the hand, therefore the handle of this sword is adorned with gold, a metal which amongst the Antients imported Wisdom, whereby the Prince ought to learn, that near his hands wisdome must have her seate, that so he may not transact any thing rashly, nor without due consideration, Gold hath been taken for the Symbol of Wisdome, from her similitude in Excellency, for as the one surpasseth and mastereth all metals in goodness and value, so Prudence or Wisdome, as we may say, surpasseth and overcometh all other things, And this caused Solomon in his proverbs to make his exhortation saying, My Son possess thou Wisdome, which is better than Gold, and get thou Prudence, for this is more pretious than Silver, Saint John in the Apocalyps calleth wisdome enflamed Gold, which penetiates the breast with the ardour of the holy Spirit. The Magi offered Gold to Christ then an Infant, and the Egyptians were despoyled of their Gold by the Israelites, the one and the other thereby signifying, Wisdome in a mistical sence; and twas so in truth spoken literally as our histories relate Plato (whose doctrine did not much disagree from the Christian) often compares Wisdome and the Beauty of the mind to pure gold. Finally the Aunt and Gryphen of India signified no other thing wch. Animals (as antiquity feigned) got together as much gold as possibly they could and afterwards [Page 242] kept it with diligence: even so Wisdome is not to be had without labour, and noblenesse of mind; the Aunt here being an embleme of a laborious Creature, and the Gryffen (feigned to proceed from the copulation of an Eagle and a Lyon) here represents the greatness of mind. Whence the same antients wisely and properly dedicated the Aunt and the Gryffen to Apollo the God of wisdome.
Moreover the sword signifies the Tongue, the best and worst member in Man, as it happens to be imployed: and therefore the antient said, that evil spoken men carryed a sword in their mouth: and Diogenes the Cynick, seeing a fair young man to speak dishonestly, sayed to him, art thou not ashamed, to draw a sword of Lead out of an ivory scabbard? and in Isaiah we read Posuit os meum quasi gladium acutum: and Christ in the Gospel saies. Non veni pacem mittere sed gladium, where we see, that by the sword is intended the word preached from God; and so in other places of Scripture under the name word, is comprehended the tongue or the sword wherefore aptly also to our purpose it may receive the same signification, the Pope giving to understand to Princes, that they in particular ought to have their tongue and speech adorned with Gold, that is to say clothed with wisdom and prudence, with which sword they ought to separate the good thoughts from the bad, and by their wise counsels to penetrate and see into the very hearts of others.
To this misterious sword the holy Pope adjoyns a belt interwoven with gold, which even of old was a sign of Majesty and military dignity: well then may the Prince (on whom tis bestowed) apprehend the exhortation by it given him, to demean himself well for the holy Church against all factions.
The Hat, which is the covering of the head, the most noble part of man, is an Ensigne of nobility and liberty, which hat also antiently was wont to be made in the form of a half sphere, as twere one part of a great egg divided just in the midst, but in later times our modern ar [...]ificers not apprehending the significations, or willing to fructifie humours, make it after another fashion. Its round form putting us in minde of Heaven, by which we are covered, and adviseth the Prince, to direct all his actions to the glory of God, and the benefit of his soul, for whose eternal dwelling were the Heavens made: the celestial colour of the said hat denotes the same thing.
The white colour of the skins and the Pearl, signifies that sincerity and purity of the mind wherewith the Prince ought to be endowed, to the end he may in the end accomplish a concomitance with those most sacred minds, the wch to that time he hath or ought to have endeavoured to imitate with all clearness of conscience. The Colour white, hath been alwaies esteemed gratefull to the Almighty, being a mark of Inocency & therfore from great antiquity all men in the duty of sacrifice used to cloth themselves therwith; Pythagoras his sentence is, that every white thing is good. Fully in his second book De legibus saies, that white is very agreeable to God. We might also bring testimonies to this purpose from Cicero and others, but to what end should we search prophane authors: since Christ himself [Page 243] in his glorious Transfiguration made himself obvious to many, clothed with rayments white as snow: and the Angels also who were at the sepulchre of our Lord the morning of his resurrection day, when the women went to seek after the most holy body, presented themselves in whitegarments: from the above specified records the Prince is advised of the nature of that Animal the Ermine, off which those skins are taken, for the Ermine is infinitly neat, and enemie to filthiness and durt, in so much that the mouth of their Cave being environed by the hunters with dirt, they do rather expose themselvs to be taken then to run for their escape through dirt to defile themselves.
All which things then advise us. That God does expect in us, Cleaness of heart, sincerity of tongue, wisedom of mind, elevation of the understanding and prudence in our actions. whereof his Holinesse by that beatified sword adorned in the aforecited manner, intends to give the Prince a continual remembrance, that in goodness and works he ought to surpasse all other sort of people in an eminent degree, begin by the omnipotent God in the government of the world made so much superiour to all other People.
The Prince at the reception of this gift, kneels down, and the Pope then gives it him, exhorting him by many expressions to be a good souldier of Christ: Then the Prince acknowledging the Pope as Vicar of God returns his thanks in Latin, swearing that he will not lay any thing more to heart, then a correspondence by his actions, with the desire of his holiness, and all other Christian Princes: afterwards he delivers the Sword to his most noble and chief Minister who bears it before the Cross while the Pope goes out of the Vestry. At last, having had a congratulation from the Cardinals and Embassadors, and taken leave, the Prince with the sword born up before him, being accompanyed by the Governors of the Castle, Saint Angelo, by the Comptrolor of the Pallace, by all the Nobility, by the Pontifical Family, and the Palatine Court, with great Pomp and the sounding of Trumpets and noise of Drumms, he marcheth out of the Palace by the military Porticue, thus attended to his own Dwelling.
Of the increases of the
TYBER.
CHAP. XIV.
ON the 9th. day of November in the yeer 1379. the Tyber rise three braces or yards, and the mark of it may be seen at Santa Maria Della Minerva.
In 1422. on Saint Andrews day under Pope Martin it rose above a brace and halfe.
In 1476. the eighth of January a little above the Channell Shores.
[Page 244]In 1495. in December being the third yeer of the Papacy of Alexander the sixth, it augmented thirteen foot, and a little after in Leo the 10ths time somewhat more.
In 1530. Under Clement the 7th. on the 8th and 9th. dayes of October it encreased twenty four feet, the mark of it appears at Saint Eustachio, upon a wall in the midst of Santa Maria del Popolo, and in Castle Saint Angelo, where the Governor Guidon de Medici then caused a signal to be made of it.
In 1542. it rose, and of that rise Maria Molza speaks elegantly.
In 1589. the 24th. of December, in the 7th. yeer of Clement the VIII. it rose with so vast a destruction to the City Rome, that there remains no memorial of the like: at which time the Pope was but just returned from Ferrara, being then lately received and restored to the Apostolick Chair. Whence we may receive for truth this maxime, that sorrow & wailing are the subsequents of Joy. The Pope had enough to do for all the following yeer, to repair the structreus which by that inundation were ruinated, and to restore Rome to a convenient condition against the yeer of Jubile, which happened in anno. 1600. The curious are referred to the tracts of Lodovico Genesio and Giacomo Castiglione.
Touching the preserving ones health in ROME.
UPON this subject wrote Alesandrio Petronio a Roman Phisition and Marsilio Cognato of Verona, a Phisicion also at Rome, in his book of observing a rule in diet, in the four books of his divers lectures, and others also to be found in Rome also: Girolamo Mercurio, speaks somethings of it in his various readings.
The air of Rome is thick, and ill tempered, wherefore you ought to abstain from walking abroad, at such times as the Sun does not subt elize it, that the sky is not serene; that is early in morn, or els late at night, or when the weather is disturbed or foggy.
In the Church Santa Maria della Minerva, you may read these verses to the purpose of preserving health in Rome.
The Wines drunk in ROME.
They drink in Rome the best wines, as hereafter followeth.
- Vin greco di Somma, the best white, growes in the Terra di Lavoro in the Monte Vesuvio. named di Somma, from the Castle Somma, which stands at the foot of it.
- Chiarello a brisk white wine from Naples.
- Latino a mean wine from Naples.
- Asprino a white wine from Naples, which is stiptick, or as we may say astringent. Mazzacani, a small white Wine from Naples.
- D'Ischia, the best Greek wine, this Island is under Naples.
- Salerno white and red.
- Sanseveren white and red both good,
- Corso d'Elba, a strong white.
- Corso di Brada a gross white.
- Corso di Loda a heady white.
- From the River of Genoua, white and red,
- Gilese, white and red, small, and wholsome.
- Ponte Reali, from Genoua, white, small and healthfull.
- Moscatello di Sardia of a deep colour, small, and wholesome.
- Vindellia Tata from the Genoueses, smal and wholesome
- Lacrima, the best red.
- Romanesco, small white, of divers tastes.
- Albano white and red.
- De Paolo, indifferent white.
- Di Francia, moderate red.
- Salino, mean white and red from Tivoli, and Velletri.
- From Segno moderate.
- Magnaguerra, the best red.
- Castle Gandolfo, the best white.
- Della Riccia, the best white, but small, made Respise wine.
- Malvasia, from Gandia.
- Moscatello, the best and most excelling wine of Italy.
Of the divers sorts and kindes of wine some Italian Physicians have also written: to wit Giacòmo Prefetto Netino printed in Venice in anno 1559. Gio Battista Confalonieri of Verona, printed in Basilea 1539. Andrea Baccio stampt in Rome in the yeer 1597.
And now, not recollecting any thing more to be spoken of to the purpose of this small tract, concerning Rome, we will make a conclusion with certain verses writin praise of her, that we may observe the same method we began with, in our discourse of Rome to wit her due comendations.
Verses composed by Faustus Sabeus a Brescian in praise of ROME.
THE HISTORY OF ITALY, CONTAINING The VOYAGES and JOURNEYS FROM ROME TO NAPLES,
The Third PART.
From NAPLES to POZZUOLO, With the Return to TIVOLI.
TRavailing from Rome by the Via Latina, to Marino, you pass between great ruins of many famous Villages, the which were no less rich then numerously disperst over the Tusculan Champaigne and the Apenine Hill during the flourishing age of the Roman Empire: and hence tis that the old Town Mariana, will derive her Original name from the Castle Marino. On the right hand whereof, lyes near the villa Luculliana of the Lieinij, & the Villa Murentana, famous for the Tusculane questions of Mar cus Tullius Cicero, His immortal testimony of Morality and Learning: At this day tis called Frascati, and is distant from Rome twelve miles: in this circuit you may, also behold the Ville or Manor Houses of [Page 248] the Portii, and of many other the prime Persons of the Roman Republick, whom we finde recorded by Strabo, Pliny, Seneca, Plutarch, and other writers.
Departing thence turn towards the Strada Appia, leaving Veletri on the left hand, where the Ancestors of Augustus were born, and on the right hand Aricia, now called Ricia, and Lo Spechio, or the looking glass of Diana Trem [...]rense, as Servius calls the Lake near that Castle, which Lake is consecrated to Diana Taurica, together with the wood famous for the fiction of Acteon, and a Temple named Artimisio by Strabo. Heretofore this was a famous place for the old, but barbarous Religion, instituted in that place by Orene and Iphegene, to wit the custom of the Scythians, the sacrificing with humane blood: Here was that Temple, whither the Fugitives brought from Tauri the Image of Diana hid in a pyle of wood, whence in Italy they gave the Surname of Fascilede and Fascilina, to Diana: but of this superstition shall we with better conveniency treat in another place.
Pursue the Journey just to the Pontine Fens, where at a little distance, lye the Tres Tabernae or three Taverns the famous Hostery on the Via Appia mentioned in the 28th. Chapter of the Acts: which are distant from Arelia eleaven miles and from Rome thirty three, as is clearly demonstrated by the antient Roman Itineraries, and the very distance of the places: they are indifferent entire, being built as the other Fabricks of the Romans of great stones and bricks in squares. Saint Luke writes in the Acts of the Apostles that certain Brothers yet Fresh men (as we call them at Oxford) in the Faith of Christ, left Rome and came to meet Saint Paul as far as the Tres Tabernae, at such time as he was transmitted as a criminal Person with a guard of Souldiers from Judea to Rome by Portius Festus the Procurator. Thence leaving the Stra [...] or street Appia, (as it may be called from the former beauty, testified by the ruines of Houses and Tombs, &c. on each side) carried through the Pontine Fens with vast expence though now wholly obstructed and impassable, through the waters of the Fens, the ruine of structures and fall of Bridges, you are necessitated to take a long journey, by the Volsci, the foot of the Apenines, the craggy and sharp Rocks of Mountains to Terracina. You shall see Setia on the left hand, celebrated by the old Poets for the goodness of the wines, and going more onward you leave behind you in the plain the walls of Priverno destroyed by the Germans and Brittons, as Biondo testifies: where in the circumspection remember that Ca [...]illa exercised the Empire of the Volsci. Thence passing by Priverno Novello now Piperno scituate in the adjacent Mountain, round which runs the River An [...]asceno, you may behold before your eyes, though at some distance, the Coasts of the Mediterranian Sea, and some Promontories, which seem as it were disjoyned from the Terrafirma, the firm Land, of old full of famous Castles, and now little lesse then wholly abandoned. There will appear to you, in what scite AEneas built Lavinium in those dayes, and where the City La [...]rentum stood near the sacred Fountain, and the Lake of AEneas or of Jove Indigete. Furthermore, there is demonstrable, where stood Ardea the City of King Turnus, and Antium the head of the Volsci, together with the famous Temple of Fortune, and where Astura, [Page 249] in famous (that we may not call it famous) for the death of Marcus Tullius Cicero, the Dictator, so active and famous.
Thence also will your eyes meet the situation of the house of Circe the Sorceress, celebrated in the fictions of Poets, of old an Island, now a most high Promontory, placed upon certain Rocks over the Sea conjoyned to the Terra firma, by the Plashes of water, and Fennish hills, full of woods and Trees, where Fame saies that Circe the most beautifull Daughter of the Sun transformed her guests into beasts and Cattel by her Magick Art (which if not credible) let's beleeve she did it by her whorish Art.
Strabo saies, that in the time of Augustus here was apparent a Temple of Circe, an Altar of Minerva, and that Goblet which Ulysses made use of, when his companions were metamorphosed into beasts as Homer in his verses declares. They assert commonly that in truth the mountain abounds with various plants of occult vertue and with infinite rare herbes, and that thence this Fable had its Original. For the relaters of Natural causes averr, that Circe. [...], in Greek, signifies the revolving of the Sun, through whose heat, and the reflex of the Summer Raies, the plants and animated things receive vigour, and mutation. Thence then departing, you must passe through the humid and large Pontine Campagna,: which is divided in the midst by the Strada Appia Regina, (the Queen of streets as we may call it,) from the Mauseoli, the Sepulchres, Temples, Villages, and Palaces, wherewith twas once proudly adorned on both sides, now only miserable reliques of its former lustre lying dejectedly and dispersedly in the waters.
TARRACINA.
WAS an antient Colony of the Romans, and first of the Volsci, twas first called Anxur, or Ansure, as most suppose in the greek Language, from a certain place sacred to Jupiter called Ansure the most famous and most antient; which they say the Spart ans built in that very place, in the same form, as is that of the Dea Feronia, in the Pontine Fields, built by the Sircei, and Rutili, who through the rigidness of Lycurgus his Laws deserted their Countrey, and after long voyages fixed their abode in the maritime confines of Italy, as Dionysius Halicarnasseus in his second book of Antiquities sets forth: Virgil also makes mention of such a name in the eighth of his AEneides standing on the Circean Mountain in these verses.
Upon which Servius in his Comentary gives the derivation of Anxur in these words, Circa tractum Campaniae, colebatur puer Jupiter, qui Anxurus dicebatur, quasi, [...], id est sine novacula, because that Jupiter imberbis was there worshipt: and he saies in another place, Feroniam Junonem virginem ait existimatam fuisse, veluti Jovem Anxurum, vel sine novacula, et perinde non abrasum; qui coleretur Tarracinae, quae etiam Anxurum aliquando dicta fuit. And I remember my self to [Page 250] have seen a marble Altar dedicated by vow to Jove, a childe, as its antient inscription testifyed.
Strabo writes, that the Graecians called her by another name to wit Trachina, as much as to say sharp, from the greek word [...] being seated on a sharp and stony mounta in; from which word it seems likely the Romans took the name Tarracina as is evident by some antique inscriptions: for all which, according to this form I conceive we ought to correct whatever word we meet with differing from this as we find in the fourth of Titus Livius. Anxur fuit quae nunc Tarracinae sunt, urbs prona, paludes: He seems to have in his mind the sharp and stony Horatian Countrey, when he so gratiously describes this very voyage of the Strada Appia in the second book,
Tarracina is scituate three miles off the Temple of Feronia in the Circean Promontory, in the Strada Appia; which heretofore as Solinus testifies, was environed by the Sea, now a populous though small Countrey: whereof that part towards the Sea is fertile and pleasant, of old most adorned and pompous, through the gardens Palaces and possessions of the Romans, who were rich and potent, whereof some Reliques and ruines lye scattered here and there, as also some footsteps of that famous Port which Antoninus Pius restored with so vast expence. A part also of the Temple of Jupiter Imberbis yet stands in the Walls of the Dome, as the vast Marbles and pieces of Pillars witness; before it are some old inscriptions with a Pillar to Theodorick for having dryed the Fens and renewed the way as by this appears.
The Strada Appia is compacted of solid stones and even all the way to Fondi, which may well entertain the Pilgrim with its marvellous structure, and the consideration of its old Fragments, and above all where tis cut out of most hard milstones, and reduced to a direct plain by chizels of Iron even to the Promontory of Tarracina. The Spectator rests stupid at the evēness of the straight way for foot Passengers, at the length of the stones, some being little lesse than 20 paces long and three broad, adorned with ridges or cuts for the drynesse of the way for passengers, and at every ten foot are stones raised for the more easy getting up on horsback or into Cart. Who is not astonisht at the solid wall of the same white Rock, whereon are distinguishable every ten foots distance, and the great number of those ten feet described and easily to be seen? Who is not pleased with the design of those characters so well made, and with so good proportion: and who is not amazed to see those Tombes and Marbles on the waies, of old adorned with triumphs of enemies now deprived wholly of all their fair habiliments? By these ways it seemed good to the antients to propagae the majesty, and authority [Page 251] of the Roman Empire through the world, and to cause by those vast Labours and cost their greatness and power to be feared by Forraign Chiefs and Embassadors repairing from beyond the Seas and the Alpes to Rome; that they might be Astonisht with the Ornaments of Italy and Rome. All which things represent to the present age the vastness of the Fabricks in past times, though now appearing little less than deformed.
FONDI.
FONDI is but a small Castle, but placed in an admirable scite, in the plain of the Strada Appia, and is as we may say, risen out of the ruines of the antient perfection of Towns, whch bore the same name, whereof some Fragments yet appear in the adjacent Fens near the Lake Fondano. To speak of it with authority take these verses of a certain German Poet.
In our times this Castle received a foul disgrace from the hands of Hariadeno Barbarossa Captain of the Turkish Armada, who by a suddain in road took it, leading away all the Souldiers and Inhabitants sacking the Castle, prophaning the Churches, and arrived at his Gallies clapt all his prisoners into Chains.
The Strada Appia is the largest, and was the famousest among the other twenty eight streets or ways of note, which took beginning at Rome, and was called the Queen of streets: because that by it passed to Rome such as came triumphing from the East. Appio Claudio made it as far as Capua, and Caligula caused it to be paved with square stones, and lastly Trajane renewed and restored it to Brandizzo, beautifying it on each side with a green hedge of Laurels, Bayes, Pomgranats, and Mastick trees: pursuing this way before arrival at Fondi you meet the Mons [...], noted amongst the antients for the good wine it bore as Martial saith.
And leaving Fondi for Gaeta, in the way you see the Villa Formiana famous for Cicero's slaughter, and the Castle Itri, scituate among certain hills, most fruitfull in Figs, Olives, and other fruit. Mola of old called Formia Formosa from the gardens, lies thirty stades thence; a stade being 125 paces, eight whereof make an English mile. Thence three miles taking the right hand you arrive at Gaeta, which Country, although all along it be but a bank, is so well cultivated, and so lovely adorned, that it may not only fascinate and entertain the eyes of the Traveller, but may be said like that in the Fable, The residence of the Nymphs, being in truth infinitely pleasant, and delightfull: on the right hand of it you have the prospect of the Sea, on the left, Flowers-Greens and Trees, which [Page 252] being on this and that side bathed by the murmuring Rivolets, afford a most excellent savour for refreshing the Travellors wearied senses
GAETA.
Virgil speaks in honour of GAETA or CAJETA in these verses.
GAETA enjoyeth a Port and a Fort, which heretofore Ferdinando King of the Arragonians founded in a Corner of the Promontory towards the East, having then driven the French out of the Kingdome of Naples: within our memory the Emperor Charls the 5th. added to it the neighbouring rock, conjoyning it by a bridge, which may be drawn up at pleasure, to the rock that is highest, and so redoubled the buildings, augmenting its strength, with Towers and ramparts, and enclosing the whole mountain, joyned it to the City by Ditches and Walls: from which Towers (such is their contrivance) the Port and the City though lying much lower, receive a perfect defence and protection: being alwaies guarded with a good garison of Spanish Souldiers: nor is any person permitted to enter, neither stranger Townesman or Country man.
The City therefore may be well esteemed secure, since so well provided for by art, with all those Forts bulwarks, &c. and by nature, by its own scituation, having contiguous with it, that Promontory as twere hanging over it, and almost round it the waters of the Sea, being as twere in a Peninsula, having but a narrow Isthmus to come to it by Land, excellently defended by a bridge, a Gate, a Fort, and the Sea waters on each side.
The Promontory shews it self with two Heads, on that side regarding the Mediterranean, lies the City on the plainest and levelled part, on the other Cliffs, Rocks, and Praecipices which extend into the Sea; tis open from top to bottom, occasioned by a great earthquake, and that a long time since, such many times happening in these parts of Italy. The old Poets and Prophets sometimes called Neptune, Ennosigaeo, and Sifittone, for that as they feigned he turned upside down the foundations of the mountains with his Trident. The Inhabitants and neighbouring people in boats with great devotion row into that wide space, and religiously reverence the place: for that they certainly believe that mountain was thus cleft in sunder by an earthquake, at the time our Redeemer Jesus Christ suffered upon the Cross for the salvation of mankind: as in the holy Gospel we find it written, that at that time the Mountains, and stones were rent in sunder. in the midst of the opening of this mountain, stands a Church and a very rich Monastery dedicated to the most sacred and great Trinity, built with the alms of devout souls, you may there see a vast stone, so fallen from the top of the mountain [Page 253] that it may be said to be sustained by a miracle between the broken walls of the opening, where it begins to narrow. There Ferdinand King of Arragonia, erected a fair Chappel, dedicating it to the S. S. Trinita, which appears as in the Sea, and they go to it from the monastery by a way made with hands in the rupture of the Mountain: the broken stones on one side, and the hollowed places whence they fell on the other, when tom out by the earthquake, afford an enticing object.
Among other things there worth a view, is a shrine made by Charls of Bourbon, a famous though wicked Captain of later times, who in the bloody assault and sack of Rome dyed of a wound from a gunshot: The bones of this bad man, are enclosed in a chest or coffin of wood covered with black silk, and are obvious at the first entrance of the Castle in an eminent place: under it may be read this Epitaph.
Englished thus by Jo. Raymond Gent.
But to study brevity, I have deliberated to run over those things only, which may afford some fruit in reading and learning to the Ingenious.
IN the upper part of the Temple or great Church they shew all the pretious gifts and ornaments of that magnificent house, wherein the episcopal seat was at first placed, after the burning and destruction of the neighbouring Formia, bestowed on it by the cruel hands of the Saracens. Out of whose ruines was drawn that huge Bacchical Crater or Boul, which holds many of those measures of wine which are called Crati or runnelets tis made of the whitest marble and is now applyed to the use of a Font for holy Baptism. Corona Pighio reports, not to have seen a Vessel (of that sort) more fair nor perfect: in it are most artificial greek Carvings, so well wrought that the sculptor (to shew his own satisfaction) engraved his proper name: the greek letters engraven shew Salpion an Athenian to be the Author: as appears by this. ‘ [Page 254] [...]’
The Vessel is engraven with excellent de signe and grace, and in it is figured Dionysius, he that had two mothers (as the Poets say) & was of the nature of fire: whom Mercury by commission from Jupiter imediately upon his birth took and caried to Lucotea the sister of his mother: they feign, that this Dionysius or Bacchus, was begotten by Jupiter on Semele, who being ambitious of equal honour with Juno, requested of Jupiter to accompany her in his divine Majesty, wherefore Jove attended by his lightning and thunder came to her, but she not able to endure his presence, fell forth with in travail, & was delivered of this Son before full maturity, and dyed; and some as foolishly feign, that Jupiter cut a hole in his thigh, and put the child in there till the full time of his birth. Orpheus, Pausanias, & Ovidius call her Matuta or Nysa (the more antient poets Jno) who they say gave the first suck to Bacchus a boy, who grown to more bigness, was delivered to the Nymphes to be brought up: whereof Ovid in the third of his Metamorphosis speaks thus
Here then may she be seen in the habit of a Matron sitting upon a rock, receiving the boy brought her by Mercury into her arms, swathing him, and hiding him in her breasts, the Satyrs and Hobgoblins dancing round in the mean time to the sound of a Tabour and pipe. Of which fable who would relate all the mysteries, should have enough to do; wherefore we will reserve it with many other things to be met with in this voyage to a more opportune place, all which the diligent Inquisi torof antiquity Corona Pighio, hath communicated to us.
At Gaeta twill quit the pains of climing up the top of this high Promontory, to be enabled to see and measure the Mauseolum of L. Manutius Plancus the Orator a Pupil of Ciceroes,
From which a Chronologer may collect, it is of neare sixteen hundred yeers standing, and built in the time of Augustus Caesar: which for its entirenesse on every side of the sea seems a miracle, the people now call it Torre Orlandina, the reward of the rustickness of posterity, who little regarding the antiquity of history, originate the works and famous deeds of their ancestors, at their own time, and attribute them to whom they please. This Fabrick is of an orbicular sorm, and seems to be made of the same architect as is that of Metellus the Son of Quintus Creticus in the Strada Appia: being composed of two rounds or circles of solid wall, the outmost whereof built with great square stones contains in the diameter 28. paces or 84 foot whence may be deduced the great largenesse of the Sepulchre, by reducing the Line of the Diametre into a Circle: nor does the heighth seem lesse, for as much as the eye can judge of measure: being raised [Page 255] by 27 stones placed one above another, of a foot and half in thicknesse; on the top of which is layed a Crown figured out of the raies or battlements of the walls, pompously adorned with the enemies armes and spoiles.
At the entrance of the gate is a space of seven foot wide, made out of the in ward Circle, all small manufacture of bricks, and conjoined with the walls without with a high Arch: and that inclosed by other high Arches represents in the middle of the Mauseolum the form of a round Temple, which hath foure large receptacles for preserving of statues. The inward walls seem to be pargetted most neatly like marble, giving a lustre so shining and white that it seems like glass, and tis supposed that the reflection of the snow which is beaten in, redoubles the light: there being no other entrance for any then at the door, which of it self cannot sufficiently enlighten the place: over the door may be plainly read the title of Lucius Plancus the Orator, with an elogie of his enterprises, as fairely engraven as if writ on a Tablet: whereof take the exact copy drawn out by Corona Pighio, the best corrected of any other.
From whence with certainty we collect the age of this Mauseolum, for from the Offices and Magistracies administred by L. Plancus nominated in this writing, we conclude it must be built fifteen or sixteen yeers before the birth of our Lord Christ; and from our Annals of Magistrates it appears, that he was laft of all Censor 25 yeers after his Consulacy and that he dyed in that dignity the yeer of Romes Rise seaven hundred & thirty one. And therefore may we assuredly believe that the Title making mention of his Censor ship this Fabrick was finished a little after his death and this inscription set up in honour of him, for a memorial of his high dignity and other noble impresses. Thus much shall suffice touching the Mauseolum of Plancus. Strabo writes that the Lacedemonians who came in old time to inhabite there, called this Promontory Gaeta from its Obliquity, by which term all other things of a crooked nature, were called in the Spartan tongue, to wit [...] and this gave denomination to the Castle: to the like purpose likewise we read that the antients termed any Dike or whirlepoole, occafioned by earthquake caiaza. Some say that the Trojan Armada burnt it self in the port of Gaeta, and that twas therefore called Apo tou caiein which signifies to burn: but be it as twill, the better part of antient writers believe with Virgil the Prince of Poets, who sings, that AEneas returned from hell named the place Gaeta and was there buried, from whence by opinion of the antients twas ever esteemed a most antique place.
You may with delight here have the prospect of Capua, the Coun, treys Falerna, Stellata, and Leborina, the most beautiful parts of Italy, [Page 256] whose hills are plentifully fraught with good wines, whence who delight to drink well and to be intoxicated, fetch from far these wines for the celebration of that gusto; and here the antients were wont to say, an important combate was fought between the Father Liberio the Finder of wine, and Ceres the Goddesse who was the Daughter of Saturnus and Ope and wife of Osyris King of AEgypt, whom the Greeks suppose to have first invented the sowing of wheat and barley, which before grew wilde among other herbs, &c.
The Gaetan port for its amplitude & antiquity is famous among authors, being well fortifyed by its proper scite and nature against all sto [...]my winds from its neighbouring mountains and the Countrey about it. Giulio Capit, placeth the Ports of Gaeta and Terracina, among the other publique great and noble Acts of Antonio Pio Augusto, as if formed by him.
Taking the Strada Appia between Mola and Suessa, you will meet some grand structures of Sepulchres of the antients, but laid wast, and among other that which is shewed for the sepulchre of Marcus Tullius Cicero, being supposed to be the same by Giovanni Pontano, in whose time they say, a piece of Ciceroes Epitaph was there found. Yet Corona Pighio will not believe, that Sepulchre can be so antient: tis built orbicular, covered at top by bricks, which are supported by a pillar standing in the midst: on the right hand of it lies the port, whence certain stone steps conduct up to the Room above, which are filled with thorns and bushes: it takes name from the Dukes Palace standing opposite to it.
SUESSA.
THis City merits a most peculiar view, being no less famous for its antiquity, then the frequent recordation of antient writers: in her (as Dionysius Halicarnasseus writes in his 5th. Book) the Pemetini retired themselves, when driven out of their Country Pometia, destroyed by Tarquinius Priscus King of the Romans, whence it began to be called Suessa and now Sessa, it was also named Suessa by the Aurunci (as Livy testifies) who being overcome by Titus Manlius the Consul, aiding their adversaries the Sidicini, recovered this place with their wives and Children: This City is scituate in the Campagna Vestina near the Monte Massico on the Strada Appia, in a pleasant fertile & Country: and was esteemed for being the principal City of the Volsci, as well as for being a Confine to the Romans: twas made a Colony about 440. yeers after the birth of Rome as may be collected from Livy, though Velius writes, that people were sent thither and a Colony made three yeers after Luceria: it groaned under frequent losses, and important destructions, both in the Carthaginian war, and in the civil Factions: but afterwards from these misfortunes rousing it self, it flourished under the Emperors, chiefly under Adrian and Antonini Pii, as we draw from the Titles of Statues, from the Elogies, and inscriptions on Marble Tablets, extant in divers places thereabouts.
On the right hand of the Church of the Preaching Fryers, stands [Page 257] the tombe of wood of Augustinus Nifus a most learned Philosopher of his times.
Looking towards the Sea, on the right hand you may observe populous places yet but villages, excellently cultivated, which are called the Casati di sessa.
At twelve miles distance from Mola you meet the River Liris, in its descent from the Apenines, and passage to the Sea, pleasantly irrigating the neighbouring Meadows.
In these Marius hid himself in his flight from Sylla, here also lies the Torre di Francolesse, where Hannibal being besieged by Fabius Maximus, escap't through that famous stratagem of making his enemies drunk: these Meadowes were esteemed by the Romans as highly as any under their dominions, as may be easily comprehended from Cicero, who magnifies beyond measure the Strada Herculatea, calling it a way of great delights and Riches; contiguous lies the Monte Caecubo, famous for being the producer of so generous wine, and for having such celebrious Fens near; which very much pleased Flaccus when he praised the Attick victory of Augustus in these verses.
This River Liris terminated old Latium, which passed, you came into the Meadows Minturna asore specified, where you may see the Monte Massico and Falerno, Sinvessa and Minturna and divers others places, whose description you'l meet with under Scotio, in the mean time behold Capua.
CAPUA.
Capua of old the head of the Champain, then was stigmatized with the Character of great arrogancy and wilful obstinacy as aamong others may be collected from Marcus Tullius, who speaking against Publius Rullus, Protests, that the Campani the inhabitants of the Plain or Champain, are haughty minded and proud of the goodness of their Fields, the quantity of fruits, the wholesome air and beauty of their City; From which abundance sprung that foolish request which the Campani made, to wit that one o [...] the Consuls might be chosen out of Capua; whose delights were such, that they overcame and enervated the army of Hannibal; before his arrival there, invincible and powerfull above all others: Cicero calls Capua the Seate of pride, and mansion of delights, and saies that it creates in the people such customes as if they proceded from the principal of generation, when it may be rather supposed they happen from the nature and air of the place, and custom of living and eating, and hence it falls out for the most part, that the genius of the place generates inhabitants like it self.
The new Capua is scituate on the banks of the river Vulturnus, two [Page 258] miles distant from the old Capua, the delight of Hannibal, and Paragon with Rome and Carthage; where the ruines of Theatres, Acqueducts, Temples, Porticoes, Baths, Palaces, and other Structures shew its former magnificence: there also may be seen many great subterranean vaults and conservatories for water, and pieces of vast columns, sufficient testimonies of the power and pride of the old Capua, although the new adjacent City hath drawn thence a great part of those infinite reliques. Strabo will have Capua to be named from the Champain, and Publius Maro likewise, who calls the City Campana as also Tullius and Livius, its Citizens and the other inhabitants Campani, from their manuring great Fields, in that happy plain of Campania, now Terra di Lavore, which most Authors as well modern as old, extol for the most fruitful plat of earth in the Universe: in a word twas the subject of Virgils Georgicks. Yet the Poets Maro, Lucan, Silius and other sings, that the Capi Trojani companions of AEneas gave to it Inhabitants, walls, and denomination.
Of her were first Patrones, the Opici, and the Ausoni, and afterwards the Osci a Tuscan People, from whom twas called Osca, as Strabo writes: these latter were driven out by the Cumani. and they by the Tuscans, who augmenting her power by adding eleuen other Cities, made her the Metropolis, and as Livy writes called her Volturno from the approaching Rivers name. At last the Romans finding her potent, a neighbour, and in the heart of Italy, a perpetual enemie, and no less emulous of their Empire then Carthage it self, terrible and fierce through the friendship and company of Hannibal, reduced her under their dominion by raising many Forts about her, besieging her to Famine, and the slaughter of all her Counsellors, and then they sould all the Citizens and other people together with the Campana, forbidding for the future the City to have any head or publique assembly, Magistrates Counsel or other footsteps or honour of republique: and commanded that her Palaces should be raised, that she should be an habitation for husbandmen only; and frequented by none but libertines, Factors, and other the viler sort of artizans. In this deplorable condition lay Capua above one hundred and thirty yeers, and her Champain Campania, was the Romans publick to the time of the Consulship of C. Caesar, who by the favour of the Julian Law, made against the will of the Senate and nobility, consigned his part by one and one to his Souldiers, and first surrounding her with walls, made her a Colony, as appears from the Fragments of Julio Frontino; when as from a resurrection she began and continued to flourish under the Emperors in the power of the Romans, till she was taken and distroyed by Gensericus King of the Vandals, who driven out by the Ostrogoths, they possessed her, and they expelled by Narsete, he restored her, but at last she was again ruinated and wholly destroyed by the Longobardi, But tis not known in what time this new Capua rise out of the ruines of the old, nor by whom transplanted at two miles distance; although most likely, that the Citizens driven away and dispersed by force, and through fear of the barbarous at last retired themselves thither, and pian piano by little and little out of the ruines of the abandoned Capua founded their new habitations: the new Capua lying on the banks of the Volturnus is now a great and powerfull City whereof Julius Caesar Scaliger [Page 259] the Poet sings, no lesse biteing than obscure in these verses.
Capua was the Metropolis of eleven famous Cities in Campagna, which as also Carthage, and Corinth, Cicero esteemed so potent and rich, as that he thought, either able to sustain the greatnesse of the Roman Empire: Hannibal writing of her to the Carthaginians saies that after Rome she had the second place in Italy.
AVERSA.
THe Road to Aversa lies through the Campagna Stellata, and thence by the Leborina, Pandolfus Collenutio the writer of the Neapolitan history affirms that twas at first called Adversa for this reason, because the Normanni, having planted and fortified their quarters in the ruines of old Attella against Capua and Naples, founded in the midst of the way the beginning of this City, to the end that from so convenient a place they might abate the force of two such potent Cities.
Having passed the River Liris, you go through Campania, the which as well in its abundance of Fruit Corn wine and oyl, as in the frequenzy pleasantnesse and largeness of the Champain, far surpasseth all the other provinces of Italy: tis a Land which voluntarily receives the Iron, and permits not it self to be broke up in vain, but seems studiously willing to afford the Labourer the greatest usury; tis named Terra di Lavoro, and La Campagna, and all the way from Capua to Aversa, with good reason was called by Pliny, Leborina quasi Laborina, a Field in Campania, where the stubble of the Corn is so great, that the People do burn it instead of wood, as we have it in Coopers Dictionary. It hath had also the attribute of happy too, which was never given to any other province of the world except to Arabia in the Orient: Tis therefore no wonder, that the Cumani, the Opici, the Toscani, the Samniti, and lastly the Romans, could not despise so great riches and plenty of all things. In particular the Pianura Stellata, is so fat and fertile, that with good reason it holds the chief place in Italy for abundance of all sorts of fruits; which the inhabitants call Campagna St ellata, from that propitiousness of the stars it enjoyes: Cicero in his orations, stiles it the most beautifull Champain of the whole world. Hence they fetch their Victuals for the Roman armies, and this, Caesar (who then prepared his way to the Empire by gifts) divided amongst twenty thousand Roman Citizens. Here the Samniti to the number of three hundred and sixteen thousand were cut in pieces by Lucius Vetturius and Appius Claudius Roman Captains: Here they make Macheroni in excellency, a sort of eating, composed of pieces of past boiled in water and put into a dish with butter, spice, and grated cheese upon them: and here properly grows the Vino Asprino, which is drunk [Page 260] at Rome with so much gusto in the great heats.
ATTELLA DE GLIOSCI.
THe old Attella was a Castle built by the most antient people of Osci tis a famous Castle, and celebrated by all for the Satyrick, lascivious, ridiculous and sharp stories there rehearsed and thence stiled Attellane: which afterwards with their facetiousnesse acquired such authority, that from the mumming place of that Castle, they mounted even the Roman Theatres: at present both the Land and Towns can boast of nought save some Gentlemens and Lords Palaces there lately erected, more of of it will be spoken under some Mediterranean places.
NAPOLI. NAPLES.
AFfter eight miles travailing from Attella, you arrive at Naples, where in every corner as well within as without the City you behold as well beautifull places, as proud Palaces, made with great art and infinite expence. This City is maritimate on the Mediteranean shore, and spreadeth it self into a large circuit: scituate among most pleasant hills lying on the north and east parts; and on the south and west parts the Sea: from whose port, without the least impediment, in a serene season, may be clearly seen the two promontories Miseno and Minerva: as also the Islands Capreas the delight of Tiberius, Ischia, and Prochyte, of old so much celebrated by Srabo Virgil and other Authors, who unanimously agree that the neighbouring people the Cumani built it: and that twas called Parthenope from one of the Syrens there interred. They write, thatafterwards she was transplanted by the said founders, for that seeming to them to flourish too much, and to increase from the fecundity of the soyl, they feared she might one day get the possession and into the room of their adjacent Mother Cuma; for which fact they relate that the Cumani groāing under a most heavy pestilence, were advertized by the Oracle that the means to pacifie that great affliction and disgrace, was for them to reedifie the City, and annually to honour with sacrifices the Sepulchre of the Goddesse Parthenope: wherefore she was restored and rebuilt and thence tis inferred shee was called Napoli, by a greek word: there are also others and divers opinions about this matter: as Licofrone Calscidese, who in his Alessandria calls Napoli mano di Falero, and Isaac Tzetze, adjoines his interpretation, that Falerus the Tyrant of Sicilia built Naples in Italy, and that because he cruelly tormented and slew its strangers of what sort soever, thence the story grew, that the Syren Parthenope dyed there, and that to her was erected a Tombe, and she there reverenced and annually adored with sacrifices [...]nder the Title of a Goddesse in form of a Bird. And we certainly know, that therefore the Syrens were adored as Goddesses among the tutelary Gods [Page 261] the placeby the Campa [...]i over all that tract of Magna Grecia, and this in the flower of the Roman Empire: I remember furthermore that (many yeers since) I saw in Naples the Syren carved together with Ebone and Sebeto, tutelary Gods of the Neapolitans upon a round marble Altar, which is now placed in the receptacle of the fountain water, lying on the extremity of the Mole in the port of Naples; besides which said opinions, there are of those (as Diodorus Siculus and Oppianus) who hold that Naples was built by Hercules: and Oppi [...] in particular alluding to the name of the City in his poeme of hunting, calls Naples the new Camp of Hercules. In fine all writers concur in this, that she is a most antient City, and was famous before Rome, flourishing among the most illustrious greek Cities of Italy for the Pythagorean philosophy. Afterwards the Roman Empire spreading it self over Italy, because she most forwardly submitted her self to it, whilst they were in agitation to subject Campania, the Romans received her among the other free and confederate Cities: and Livy affirms as well as many other Authors, that she from that time constantly continued her Friendship, and observed that Faith which at the first she had given to the Romans: Furthermore the affaires of the Republique being reduced to a bad state in the sixth yeer of the C [...]rthaginian war, she not only resolved not to withdraw it self from the Romans, in despight of the near lying Capua and the other rebellious Cities, but also as the said Livy relates, sent Embassadors to Rome, and by them would have presented as an Act of Liberality and Noblenesse, to the Senate then in Court, forty Goblets of Gold of great weight, and therewith offered force, riches, and in sum all whatever their Ancestors had left them in; aid assistance and defence of the Empire and City of Rome: To which Embassadors then with all demonstration of courtesy were returned great thanks, and only one of those Goblets retained, and that also weighed the least of them: wherefore for her great and constant fidelity was she ever esteemed, held and honoured among the free and Confederate Cities of Italy, as well in the times of the Consuls as under the Emperors, she ( Capua being opprest, subdued and reduced to the servitude of the Praefectura) augmented sufficiently, and most happily enjoyed for a long time the fruits of her fidelity. Hither as Str [...]bo instruct [...]us, the youth to intend their studies, and many ancient men to enjoy quiet and tranquility of mind, were wont to retire themselves from Rome, as to the purpose Silius Italicus, and before him Horatins Flac [...]us to the same sung, saying
Italy affords not a place enjoying so milde and benigne a heaven as Naples, having a double spring yeerly in flowers, which the surrounding Fields produce plentifully as also great variety of Fruits, and those the most prized; participating no small quantity of fountains, and springs, and of healthfull and good waters: to say no more tis scarce to be believed a natural thing but wonderfull how infinite is their abundance? and therefore with good reason may she be called the Paradise of Italy, which particulars have chiefly [Page 262] been the inviting argument for so many Emperours, Kings, Princes and ingenuous Persons, to make their frequent applications and residence here, and to this day tis reckoned the third City of Italy, and the delights which nature hath allowed this place are so great, that meritoriously, is she stuft with so many proud Palaces and stately houses of Princes and other Grandees, who reside in them the most part of the yeer. Tis most perspicuous and known to all, that Titus Livius the Padouan Historian, Q. Horatius Flaccus, Statius Papinius, Claudins Claudianus all famous Poets, Annius Seneca the Philosopher, and infinite others, who have rendred themselves immortal by their wits, and learned writings, retired to Naples for their better and more due attention to their studies. We read furthermore that P. Virgilius Maro, lived most sweetly for a long space in Naples. and there composed his Georgicks, as at the end of his fourth book may be collected.
He dying in Brindesi commanded that his body should be hither conveighed and buried in Naples, as we learn from divers testimonies of old Poets. Servius his Comentator writes, that Virgils Sepulchre lies two miles distant from Naples in the way of Pozznolo near the gurge of that subterranean cave, the famous Grot under Pausilipus, now the Inhabitants shew the place in the gardens of San Severinus; over the door of the garden is this inscription.
Virgils Tombe is built in a Rotunda or Cupola, about five paces long: on the infide, the walls are of brick in square after the Roman way: the outside of massive stone, covered over with bushes and among them, three or four bay trees (an immortal testimony of the Prince of Poets there interred) shoot forth about a mans heighth, round it lye scattered ruines testifying its formers beauty: in the Rock just opposite to the entrance, where his known Epitaph of Mantua me genuit was, that being decayed, is placed a Marble stone with these Verses.
The Crypta Neapolitana a perfect signe of the Roman magnificence is the Rocky mountain Pausilipus, cut thorough; very high spatious and well paved, so that for the space of a mile, two Coaches may go on front under ground.
From the garden of San Severinus you may see the house of Attius Sincerus Sannallarius the Poet emulous of Virgil: which by his testament was made a Monastery, whose Church is called Della Beate Virgine, therein stands a marble Sepulchre car ved with great industry: on the one side is Orpheus or Apollo, on the other the Sybil, or the Muse wrought of white marble, and here read this Epigram of Cardinal Pietro Bembo.
‘Vixit annos 72. Obiit anno 1530.’
To return to Naples: tis a City at this time no lesse famous for the nobility and magnificence of her Citizens & inhabitants, then for the vast expence, and for the beauty of the structures of all sorts: for that the Governors of the Emperor Charls▪ the 5th and after them of Philip King of Spain, of later yeers Presidents or Viceroyes, in the Kingdome of Naples, have wonderfully enlarged and forti fied her with a new wall, bul wark, Ditches, Towers, Castles; in so much that she is now almost invincible. She is furthermore full of regard for the many and magnificent Churches, Colledges, Courts Palaces of Princes and other great Men, as also for many old reliques of antient houses, Epitaphs, Statues, Sepulchres, Collumns, Altars, Marbles with most artificial and fair engravings, and other things, which to recite would take up too much Room here.
Among the rest, any one may meet contentin the grand ruines of the Quadrate Temple of Castori which though the fire hath consumed for the most part, yet appears before it a part of a most beautifull porticue, with six prime Pillars of Marble with their cornishes yet a foot, of Corinthian architecture▪ wonderfull for their vastness, and the art they are wrought with: they have for Capitols, some Cesti, Iron Clubs (used among the Graecian wrestlers) to which were tyed with leather straps or dryed Sinews▪ balls or bullets of lead, which in theit Olimpick games, they use to hurl or cast: which with the Foliage and revolts represent a becoming covering; and on the Frise, to which the Rafters are fixed, may be read a greek inscription, which clearly manifests, that this was the Temple of the Castori, and that the Greek language was in use among [Page 264] the Neapolitans, when the Roman Empire flourished: which is also confirmed by the characters by the vast expence of the whole work, & by the exquisit perfectiō of the art, in the Ti [...]pano or triangular Frontispiece of the roof: upon these Collumnes were carved many images of the Gods, which the Flames and Age have for the most part consumed. On the Tres [...]el was figured an Apollo, & on one & the other side of it, lies Earth and Water in the form they are usually figured, that is in form of a body half raised up, half lying along, naked to the Navil: Earth hath the right hand, holding in its left the horn of the Copia, the rest cannot be discerned, being too much broken and ruinated.
The Churches of our Religion, are there in excellent order and rich, as well as many: and so well placed, as pleasant flowers for beautifying a Garden. For example the Church of S. Chiara, enjoying a great and fair monastery, was very magnificently built by Santia the Spanish Queen, and wife of King Roberto, who by others is named Agnese: which the antient Kings of the noble house of D [...]razzo have made famous with their sumptuous Tombes: and in San Domenico, is the Sepulchre of Alfonso the first, and of many other Kings, Queens, and Princes; and what is more important, the Image of that Crucifix which spake unto San Tomaso d'Aquino, these words: Tomaso tu hai scritto bene di me: Thomas thou hast written well of me: and that of Oliveto: so also in other Churches, you may see many proud depositories and memorials of the Kings of Spain, of the Heroes and other Princes, with statues of Marble as if natural. In the Church of San Giovanni dalla Car boniera is the Sepulchre of King Roberto, whose praises were writ by all learned men, among the rest by Petrarcha and Boccaccio. In that of S. Maria Nova, lye interred the bones of Odetto Foix named Lotrecce: and of Pietro Namarro, of Consalvo Ferrando Cordovese, and in the most religious Tabernace of San Giannuacio, are preserved many holy reliques of Saints. Where once in the yeer at least they shew one by one, all those worthy objects: as bones of Saints and other Reliques enclosed in gold and Silver with pretious stones, with the pretious gifts bestowed by Kings and Princes, and other things. Among which with great reverence, is the head of S. Gianuario, Bishop of Pozzuolo the Martyr; and his bloud stil remaining in a glass vial, though dryed and become hard through time: which vial when brought to the Altar is set near the head of the Martyr, on the Corner of the Chorus: and the blood (to admiration) begins to become liquid and to boyl as new wine in the must, as hath been annually observed and seen by all, not without great stupour. Thence you go to the Annunciata, a Church famous through the great devotion there exercised, and rich through the many offerings made to it: as also for many reliques of Saints of importance, among others two small bodies of a foot and half long, yet entire, covered with the skins of innocent Children slain by Herode the King, at the time our Saviour was born in Bethlehem, the wound of one is in the head, the other in the breast.
Contiguous with which lies an hospital, built like a spatious Castle, wherein are maintained as their condition, age, and health require, two thousand souls: therein are also brought up children of [Page 265] the poorer sort, more than eight hundred, between orphane and exposed infants as well males as females: instructed in letters and art, according to their inclination till they become great. 'Tis a pleasure to see and observe their several diligent exercises and works: and this custome of Christian Charity is certainly very comodious, which as Corona Pighius observes, resembles Platoes Republique in part, and imitates that Economical government of the Apes, described by Xenefonte, and by Virgil the Prince of Poets, described and de painted so well to the similitude of Platoes City.
Castle Nuovo, the name is new although built more then 300 yeers since by the Brother of San Lodovico, King of France, who was Charls the first King of Naples and Count of Anjou, to the end he might thence aid the City and the Port against the maritimate inroads of enemies. Alfonsus the first of this name, King of the Arragonians, restored it within our memory, after he had expelled the French, and subdued the Kingdom; and so well fortifyed it, that tis now held one of the strongest Forts of Italy: more especially since the last Kings, the Emperor Charls the 5th. and Philip his Son compleatly furnished it, and all the other Forts of this City, with victuals, good souldiers, and all other necessaries and engines of war to keep off the Enemy.
In the midst of this large Castle, stands the pompous Palace of the governors, furnished with royal and most lovely houshold-stuff wherein the King or Emperor may find a comodious receipt for all his Court: strangers are astonisht at the engines of war, the Artillery, the great quantity of Iron Bullets, the murrions inlayed with gold and Silver, the Shields, the swords, the Launces, and the other preparation for war there continually preserved. and that admiration becomes much lessened, at the view of the said palace so richly laden with tapistry of silk interwoven with Jewels and gold, the engraving, the statues, pictures and the other noble furniture.
Thence you may see the Castle Del'ovo, so named for that the shelf which there in largeth it self to the similitude of an Island, retains an oval form. Collanutius writes that this Fort was built by William the third a Norman, and thence called Normannica, which afterwards Alfonsus the first King of the Arragonians, repaired and beautifyed in many things: tis said that the antient called this by a greek word Miagra, either from a salutatiferous plant there growing, or from the site and quality of the place, or for that twas difficult to escape out of it: This Mole is like an artificial street casting it self into the Sea, whither all the gentry in the evening resort for the benefit of the Fresco.
The Townesmen shew one after another Grottes hollowed under the shelf, also some old memorials erected upon Cliffs, and great quantity of Arms of different fashions.
Afterwards pass into the Court of the Palace by the Gulf of the Sea called by Strabo and Tazza, della forma; and if you would learn the discipline and labour of the Galleots you must view in the passage, the near shores, the Islands and Promontories round about, as Liseno, Procrite, Patecusa, Capreta, Herculaneo, and Atheneo or Miner [...]vio, which as Pliny relates was the residence of the Syrens, and that [Page 266] gave denomination to the Promontory: and here as Strabo records, Ulysses consecrated a Temple to Minerva, for his deliverance from the crafty wiles of the Syrens.
For the most part 40 galleys lye in this Port, besides other vessels to discover and do other service: which Port is very large, and as well as is possible defended against fortune with a large bank; which for the space of 500. foot runs from the shore into the Sea in form of a bended arm: and the whole length and bredth made of huge pieces of squared stones.
There gusheth out at one end of the Mole a fountain of sweet water, conveighed thither through the midst of the said Bank; this fountain hath much marble under it, wherein the water is received, the name is drawn from a Latin word, the foundations are known to have been layed by Charls the second the French King above two hundred and eighty yeers ago: which Alfonsus the first a Spaniard, amplified with all magnificence afterwards as well as many other publique edifices within the City: this fancy also Charls the 5th. Emperor, and Philip his Son took up, in augmenting, fortifying and furnishing the same for its commodity and ornament, without respect to the expence.
Hither the mariners in little boats row persons to see the Galleys and the life of the slaves with their arts, who from the want of bread learn to speak with the words of the Poet Perseus, Venter Magister, &c. and sitting, exercise themselves; together with the munition and naval preparations for war: here in a little time may be learnt the mariners art, with their manner of living, wherewith they keep their bodies in health, and the offices and charges of the Presidents of the Vessels: thence you go to see the denoted stables of the King, where are kept and managed whole heards of beautifull and valuable horses, where some Princes are always to be found, beholding with attention and delight, their swift course, their wheelings, and turnings, made in as little room, and with as much art as is possible, their curvets and leaps of all four performed excellently at the nod of the switch of the Rider.
Thence you go to the Castle Santermo, on the top of the near mountain, very strong, looking on and defending, the City, the shore Port and Islands in the Sea: King Robert Son of Charls the second built it 250 yeers agoe, adding to it such strength and defences as render it little lesse than inexpugnable, the Emperor Charls the first and Philip his Son some years since enlarged the Guasto, conjoyning it with the City, and increasing the structures in the inward space with new walls and new forts.
On the top of the Hill you meet a most fair and rich Temple with a stately Monastery possessed by the Carthusians; In which Monastery if you can obtain so much favour from the Monks (who lovingly receive forraigners and shew their Monasterie) you will meet an ample satisfaction in the view of the Monks chamber in a corner of the Monastery: where you have as great delight as Italy affords: for on the right hand is presented to your view, the prospect of the Sea, as large as the eye can reach, the Islands Enarea, Caprea, and Prochite and opposite the manured places of Pausilipo, the gulf of Surrenio, the streight of Surrentano, some Cities and many Burroughs: [Page 267] On the left hand the Field Holana, very large, and the mountain Vesuvius as high; then looking downwards, you behold Naples, which, whither to be styled the miracle of art or nature is disputable, since there you may see, have and enjoy, what ever is esteemed pleasing or sweet.
In the voyage see the garden of Gacia di Toleda, kept in as good order as any, twas made with vast expence, and with as many curses; (being with the sweat and blood of enforced galley slaves, reduced to that perfection it now retains) in the time that his Father Pietro di Toledo, continued Lord of the City and Kingdom, under the benevolent aspect of the Emperour Charles the 5th.
Nor is it a mean pleasure, to view the places surrounding the City worth the seeing, especially in a good season: the which are in that fertile plain, near the Sea in pleasant scites very pompous; and adorned by the nobles with magnificent Edifices and fair gardens, well kept, and enriched: which have such plenty of Fountains, grottoes made by art, and Fishponds adorned with Curral, mother of Perle, and Fish shels of all sorts, as the beauty is almost impossible to be ghes [...]ed at, as also of Porticues, walks, vaults covered with Leaves and Flowers of divers sorts, Roses, pomegranates, collumnes and Lodges beautifyed with pictures, statues, and marbles of antiquity, and among those Lodges those of the Marques di vico, and the other Princes, placed on the strond near the Vesuvius, are very famous: as also the Villa of Bernardino Martizano adorned with many reliques of of antiquity; Poggio Reale, a vast Palace, built heretofore by Ferdinand King of Arragonia, whither the King used to retreat, when he desired to repose himself, and to recreate his minde from the fortunes of the Sea, in a blith and secure port. This Palace is contrived in this manner, four square Towers, upon four corners, are bound together by great Porticues, so that the Palace hath two bredths in a length, each Tower hath fair and pleasant Chambers aboue and below, and you passe from one to the other by the means of those open galleries; the Court in the midst is ascended by certain little steps, and therein a fountain and clear fishpond, and on all sides by the nod of the Master, from the pavements rise sprouts of water, by meanes of infinite subtile Chanels there placed with art, and in such plenty that they suddenly wet all the aspicients not thinking of it, in the summer a sufficient cooling: these Fields by the vicinity of the Vesuvius enjoy great plenty of sweet waters, the Fire within forcing out many fountains of sweet waters purged and pure: hence also the Sebeto acknowledgeth its being and the greatnesse of its Chanel being conveighed into all the streets of Naples by Pipes under ground, to all the publique and private palaces and habitations: so great comodity of all things brings to its inhabitants, the Paradise of Italy (as Corona Pighio frequently and not improperly calls her) that flourishing part of the Neapolitan territory, although many times afflicted with wars and earthquakes.
IL MONTE VESUVIO.
VEsevo, or Vesuvio, or Vesuvius, (so called by the Antients from the sparkling) was a most fair mountain; and formerly a goodly Countrey for about four miles compasse lay at top, which then produced the excellent Graeco, but tis now layed wast: Tis an imitator, and companion or rather the Brother of flaming AEtna, and is begotten by earthquakes and fire, the materials whereof it continually retains in the profoundest part of it: which as if withheld within it self for some yeers till come to maturity, and as if the spirits were summoned and fomented, with fury evaporates fire, breaks open the firm parts of the Mountain, and vomits forth its inward parts, as earth, stones, flames, smoke and ashes, throwing them up into the air with horrid noise, and with such force, that the Vesuvio seems to imitate the war of the Gyants, by fighting against Jupiter, and the Gods with flames, arms, and huge stones, (some whereof four porters can scarce move) and seeming to draw the Sun down to the earth, to change the day into night, and lastly to cover the very heavens. Experience and the testimony of Strabo, Vitruvius and other antient Authors assures us, that under Vesuvio, aud the adjacent Maritimate Mountains, and of the neighbouring Islands, are vast burning sires, of sulphur, pitch, and allume: the hot bathes and sulphu reons boyling fountains sufficiently prove it: and therefore the Vesuvio, when abounding with fire, sometimes asends & sometimes useth to move earthquakes and vast ruins and destructions. That incendium was the greatest and most famous which happened under the Emperor Titus Vespasianus: described in a print by Dion Cassius, and other Authors, the ashes of which fire, were not only exported to Rome by the wind, but over the Seas into Affrick and into AEgypt; the Fish in the boyling Sea were dressed, the birds were suffocated in the air, and the famous and most antient adjacent Cities Stabia, Herculeano, and Pompeo, were heaped and covered over with ashes and stones, while the people were sitting in the Theatre: and C. Plinius the famous Naturalist, who then governed and commanded the Armada of Misenus, too inquisitive after the cause of this intestine fire, approached too near, and by the heat and savour received his end, by being suffocated near the Porto Herculiano: Francesco Petrarca noting this acutely (in his triumph of Fame) saies he wrote much but dyed little discreetly.
Yet for all, that to Pliny succeeded so fearfull his dalliance, Stephano Pighino, himself not thereby fore warned, could not forbear, but took a voyage (of 30. yeers old) in order to his studies, into Italy through Campania and Naples, to the end he might search out, and behold the place of such wonders, although very high, and no lesse [Page 269] difficult to ascend which cost him an entire dayes labour. and with his two companions, he marched round the mountain, reaching the very top: where he could scarce satiate his view, in looking on the bourg, the Countrey round about, the Islands and the Sea: Vesuvio, riseth in the midst of a most fertile Countrey; the ashes scattered over it, the stones and clods of earth burnt by the fire, and dissolved by the rain afterward, infinitely enrich and fructifie all the countrey; in such sort that the vulgar to purpose enough, call Campagna, the mountain and the Castle built at the foot of the mountain, Sommano from Somma, the sum and wonderfull abundance of generous wines, and excellent fruit; the Vesevo, as well as the Campagna, and neighbouring hills, being surrounded with fair vineyards.
So also Martial sung, that in his time it was green, with the sprouts of the vines, bewailing in his first book with a fair epigram that fierce fire, happening in Vespasians dayes: the top in all times and ages hath been ever held barren through the burned stones, as if eaten up by flames. Tis hideous to behold the deep cracks in the earth through which the streams of sulphur pass, but when arrived at top the Vorago represents hell, so terrifying is the spectacle; Tis a hole about three miles compass and round, as if formed like the middle and lower part of an Amphitheatre, tis called Lazza from the form of the Rock Fish, the bottom of it reaches to the bowels of the Earth, The place is cold now, nor seems it to emit the least heat or smoak which the said Pighius testifies, who descended as far into that profundity as the the precipices and obscurity of the place would permit; the first entrance of the Vorago, is fertile through the earth and ashes cast on it, and growes green through the firre and other great trees growing in it, as far as the Sun can reflect into it, or the rains penetrate; but the parts under, restrained to a narrow compass are as twere stopped by the great pieces of stone and rocks, and arms and bodies of trees fallen down: which obstructions, when the in ward Materials of fire abound, like little bundles of straw are easily raised and mounted to the skyes, by the invincible force of its smoake or flames.
The fire also is known to open it self a way, not only by the ordinary mouth, but on other sides also, as occasion offers; whereof we have a memorial in the Italian Annales: To wit that two hundred sixty and six yeers since, in the Pontificacy of Benedict the 9th. from one side of the Mountain gushed out a stream or river of flames which ran into the Sea, in a liquid fire like water: the issue and footsteps of which Cavern tis said appear yet: The Roman History tells us that besides the mouth, it had other issues and courses for the flames of old: for instance, it saies that Spartacus the swordplayer having begun to raise the war of the Fugitives against the Romans in Campania, and having possessed the mountain Vesuvius with his army, as a strong fortress and sure retreat for war, and being there afterwards besieged, he escaped from the Roman siege by an admirable way: for that covertly fastning chains at the mouth of the Mountain, he with his companions let themselves down to the bottom: (as L. Florus briefly relates in his third book of the Roman history) whence issuing forth by an obscure breach, he at unawares [Page 270] put to sack the quarters of the Captain Clodi [...]s, and of the rest who were at the siege: who never conceived the least thought of it.
Whither at this day any subterranean wayes or caverns, leading from the Vineyards to the mouth of the Mountain, are found out▪ I cannot tell. Pighius assuredly tells us, that he observed at the top of the mountain about the mouth, certain vents, whence proceeded a continual heat: wherein putting his hand, he perceived clearly a heat although small and without smoke or vapour: but our Country man Raymond observed in his view there, a certain hill rising in the midst of the Vorago, that still vomits thick smoke, which he saies the fire within hath raised within few years, that it dayly encreaseth, and when grown to a fuller bulk, Caveat Neapolis. Thus much touching the Vesuvius.
Between the mountain Vesuvius and Attella, in the Mediterran [...], are scituate, Mereliano, Acerra, and Sessola, at present ruinated, of old possessed by the Camps of the Leborini, where the Romans and the Samnity fought most fiercely: hither reach those mountains of Capua, called by the Antients Tisata, and those that extended towards the Mole Northwards; here is Forche Caudino, and other Castles with many inhabited places, among which the chief is the Castle of Aciola: at the foot of these mountains lies Caserta the City and Country of the great Cardinal Santorino, called Santa Severina: near which lye Maddalone, Orazano and Argentino; Behind Tifata on the back of the Mountain is scituate Sarno, flowing with waters by means of the River Sarno, which there takes its rise: these are mediterranean places about Naples and Campana, whence you go to the Marca.
The Kingdom, whereof Naples is the Metropolis, cōmenceth from Latium that part where the River Ufente runs into the Terreno; Then towards the Apenines it passeth to Terracina, thence to Frigella, or Ponte curvo, Ceperano, Rieti, Tagliacozze a Ducal City, and Matrice, where Trent begins its source,
Then follow the way along the River for eighteen miles to Colonia de gli Ascolani, where the River dischargeth it self into the Adriatick Sea: that part of the Kingdome opposite to the Promontory called of old Leucoperta, now Capo Dell'armi, respecting Sicilia, is distant from Poggio, forty eight stadii, each of which contains 125 paces; whose head is called Tarlo: Tis 418 miles of way to go by Terracina, Bossento, and Reggio towards Naples. This Kingdom of Naples is one thousand four hundred and sixty eight mile in circuit: whereto some have assigned ten provinces, others nine, others seaven and we thirteen.
The Terra di Lavoro, taking in Naples, hath three Arch-Bishops, twenty five Bishopricks, one hundred sixty six Castles surrounded with walls, and one hundred and sixty Towns: the Principality named Di quà on this side hath twelve Cities, two hundred and eighteen Castles; the Principality Di là beyond, eleaven Cities, one hundred forty and one Castles, the fairest among which is Consa. La Ba [...]ilicata, hath ten Cities, ninety three Castles, the fairest Venesa. La Calabria di quà, hath ten Cities, one hundred sixty two Towers and Villages. La Calabria di là, wherein is Reggio, hath sixteen Cities and [Page 271] one hundrd and thirty Castles. The Province of Otranto hath besides Brindesi, thirteen other Cities, and one hundred fifty eight Castles or Towns. The Province de Bari hath fourteen Cities and fifty Castles. La Capitaota, thirteen Cities and fifty Towns, whereof the most notable is Manfredonia: The Countrey of Moliseo, four Cities, one hundred and four Castles, the fairest Trivento. L'abruzzo di quà hath five Cities, one hundred and fifty Castles, the chief Teate. L'Abruzzo di là, besides Aquila, hath four other Cities and two hundred eighty four Castles: but with more brevity to speak of them, this Kingdom, hath twenty Arch-Bishopricks, one hundred twenty & five Bishopricks, ten Principalitys, twenty three Dutchies, thirty Marquisates, fifty four Earld omes with authority over their subjects, fifteen Lords who have jurisdiction, four hundred forty three petty Lords with title and authority. a thousand Towns enclosed with walls, and villages in great number. The most famous Islands of this Kingdom are Enaria, Procida, Lipari: and thirteen others of small fame.
The Offices of this Kingdom are great Comestable, who is Viceroy. Grand Justiciary, Grand Admiral, Grand Chamberlain, Grand Prothonotariy, Grand Mareschal, Grand Chancellor: as also the Sindico or Judge, who publiquely performs his office, in attending the busine [...]s of the City Naples: which hath five kindes of assembly of the Nobles: di Nido, di Porta Nova, di Capuana, di Montagna, di Porto; which congregations or assemblies, although under other denominations, the City Capua likewise enjoyes
Many Cities most antient and adorned with signal conditions have been in this Kingdom, whose memory is yet in being, except Osea, Metaponto, Sibari, and others hereafter spoken of.
The Foster Children of this Kingdome, truly famous in Letters, were Archita, Eurito, Alemeone, Zenone, Leucippus, Parmenides, Timeus, Ennius, Lucillus, Pocuvins, Horatius, Ovidius, Statius, Juve [...]al, Salustius, Cicero, and San Thomasus, besides others more modern
I wil be silent of such sommi Pontifici, or Popes, the Emperors, Kings, the valorous Captains of war, and the thousands of Prelates, Princes and Heroes, as likewise of the male and female Saints, (who perpetually contemplate the Countenance of God) as this Kingdom hath happily given birth to.
These following have been Lords of the Kingdom of Naples, to wit, the Greeks, the Goths, the Vandals, the Longobards, Sarazens, the Turks, the Hormeni, the Suevi, the French, the Catalonians the Arrago [...]ians, the Flemmings or Spaniards, and sometime, the not to be forgotten Romans.
The Journey towards POZZUOLO.
THe Mountain Pausilippus, though very high is well manured with vineyards, and rich Townes also in old time as we collect from Pliny and others; it extends into the Sea in form of a Promontory, and shuts up the way between Naples and Pozzuolo, and was an intollerable toyle to the Travellers to pass over or go round it, before twas cut in two; tis now by the industry of the passengers, through their hollowing it for the head, and levelling it for the feet become the mistress of waies, being strait, plain and easy: therefore the Graecians to the purpose by a word in their tongue called it Pausilippo, as if they would say a remover of troubles and labour: by which surname the Graecians of old called Jupiter, as we read in Sophocles. The mountain is hollowed within for one thousand paces in length, twelve foot wide, and as much more in heighth, on which as Strabo writes two Carts may commodiously meet and pass under earth: Seneca calls the cavern Cripta Neapolitana: though now the name is changed for Grotta, where he writes to Lucullus in the 58. epistle, to have run the whole fortune of the Atlesi, for that he found copiously in a part of the muddy way, implaistrings, and in the same cavern, abundance of the dust of Pozzuolo: we also have proved and tryed that dust, as others did. for we find that troops in the passage by foot or horse raise the dust, and that at our issuing out of that obscurity we were all yellow, and looking and laughing at one another we much wondered at it, finding a more then desirable inconvenience; in cleansing our selves of that filth. The cause of which dust is easily known to proceed from the exclusion of the wind and rain, so that the raised dust (as Seneca saies) having no Vent falls down on it self, or on those that raise it: whence we collect that in the time of Nero this cavern had no Casements or breathings whereby it might receive air or light, more then at the entrance and end, because Seneca calls it a long and obscure prison, where nothing is to be seen but darkness. Yet Cornelius Strabo testifies, by the riving or chops of the Mountain in divers places, that many windows gave it light, which being closed or earthed up, either through the earthquakes or the carelesness of the times, we may rationally imagine, rendred this longcavern so darksom. Pietro Rassano a Sicilian Bishop of Lucerie writes, that in his time, which we may count to be above 250. yeers since, this cavern was found without any holes, and without light, and that the entrance and the out-passage were so filled up with ruines and bushes, that twas terrible to enter without light: and that therefore the King of the Arragonians Alfonsus the first, having reduced this Province, enlarged and levelled the way and the entrance of the Caverne, and closing the top of the Cavern opened two lights, which obliquely enlighten it, whose reflection at a distance seems to the aspicients, snow scattered on the earth: in the midst of this darksome way is a little sacred place cut in the walls of the mountain, where night and day a lamp perpetually burns, which puts the travellers in remembrance [Page 273] of the eternal light, and shews in a painted tablet our salvation, proceeding from the virgin Mother Mary: a Lampe perpetually burns there, and the words at the Incounter are Alla Marina, Alla Montagne.
In our times D: Pietro di Toledo, magnificently restored and aggrandized this work so worthy of eternity, being then governor of Naples Kingdom by the favour of the Emperor Charls the fifth: the way is now become so strait, that it seems to such as enter the cavern, a Star, to which they ought to direct their course in the darkness, by means whereof, with what pleasure they behold all such as enter on foot or horsback at the other end, who seem like Pigmies at that distance, is scarce imaginable. Divers are the opinions of the learned touching the time and beginning of this great work worthy of the mind of Serse: omitting the idle prating of the vulgar who attribute it to the magick incantations of the Poet Virgil, whose ashes by the opinion of many ly at the mouth of the Cavern: or of others who make one Basso the author, of whom there is no record among the antients: we beleive we may draw from Strabo, Eforus, Homerus and other greek writers, that the Cimmerij a most antient people dwelt in that Canton of Campania, between Baio, Lucerno, and Averno, and that they lay in denns and subterranean Caves, and that running the one to the other they dug out metals, and hollowed mountains, and in profound Caverns exercised (by means of their Priests,) Negromancy and inchantments, conducting travellers, and pilgrims to the oracles of the infernal gods: which people being destroyed, the Greeks, who succeeded them and built Cuma and Naples, accommodated as most suppose those Caves of the Cimmerii into hot baths, and baths, ways and other conveniences for humane use. So likewise the Romans, after the example of the Grecians, being chiefly enclined to great and magnificent impreses encreased these laborious under-ground structures, and at the time when they became the Lords of the world, they there erected their Palaces of Recreation, and Mannor houses little inferiour to Castles when the rare quality of the dust of Pozzuolo was discovered (extracted from those mountains) to be very efficacious for binding, building, and establishing foundations of Edifices in the waters. Strabo affirms that in his time M. Agrippa under Augustus, cutting up the wood on the mountain Avernus, which corrupted the air, among the other antique & magnificent things found out a subterranean cavern hollowed even to Cuma, the which as was conjectured, together with another between Naples and Pozzuolo, was made by one Cocceio; and that in his time the custom of the Countrey was to make such underground waies and Caverns: from whose words we collect, that for a long time before Strabo, the Cocceian family were got together in Campania, and that the place was called Spelonca though for truth we cannot set down any thing of certain of him that first made it: nor is it probable to me, that Strabo could be ignorant of the deeds of L. Lucullus, the which in those places were very great and of excessive expence, from which he was called Serse Togato, by Pompeius Magnus, by Tuberone, by Cicero, and the other principal men of Rome: wherefore their sence pleaseth me, who impose on him the concavating the Pausilipus for the conveniency of his [Page 274] Villa: because tis written by Marcus Varro, Pliny, and others, that L. Lucullus cut a mountain in the midst of Naples, with greater cost, then he expended in building his Manor house: for to what end should he? not to level and accomodate the way for passengers: but rather to open a gulfe of the Sea. whereby at his pleasure to admit and let in Sea water to his Fishponds that so the caves of the mountain might be a good receipt for his Fish (which he kept alive) to lye in as well in Winter as Summer.
At the outgoing of this Cavern, you perceive by little & little the odour of brimstone in the air, which here and there proceeds out of divers vaults. By it lies the Lake Aniano, in similitude of an Amphitheatre surrounded and shut in on all sides by the Mountains, and through a mouth of a hill cut with iron great plenty of Sea watet, and great concaves, made ponds for Fish, at present filled with mud, sand, and ruines of structures: Leandro and others write from the relation of the peasants there, that in the midst of the Lake there is no mud: and that in the spring time, with great noyse & fury fall down from the highest praecipices of the rocks there round in to these waters Knots of Serpents knit and bound together, which are never seen again to get out.
Near them are the sweating Rooms of Germanus vaulted: from under which, through the superficies rise vapours so hot, that who enters though naked, shall soon perceive a mighty sweat trickle down his body.
Wherefore those places are held of exceeding validity to such as suffer under the gout by purging the bad and malevolent humours, they heal internal wounds, and are helpfull for many infirmities of the body: which if any desire ampler satisfaction in, he may read the Tract of Gio Francesco Lombardo, who gives an account of all such as have writ in verse or prose of the baths and wonders of Pozzuolo but we are obliged to too much hast, to relate with care and amplitude all particulars wee meet with.
In the Campagnia of Pozzuolo, Baia, Cuma, and the near Island Enarie, by the old Greeks called Pythecus, are found great quantity of the like Miracles, that it might be well beleived that there nature serves Apollo perpetually, and AEsculapius, Higia, and the Nymphs: although the earthquakes, and the volleys of fire which frequently happen, demonstrate sufficiently that in divers places, that as well under the foundation of the Sea, as under the Mountains, and in the lowest parts of the Earth great fires are kindled, whose boyling vapours and flames working their own way through the veins of Allum, sulphure, pitch and other materials, cause to rise in divers places hot and boyling fountains, and create baths in the Caverns comodious for sweating. Yet the nature and faculty of these things are different, being conformed to the propriety of the materials and the earth whence the source proceeds: so that among the medicinal and healthfull faculty of these waters, we find some waters and vapours mortal, which issue out of some muddy earth, evil in it self. Pliny in the second of his natural Histories writes, that in Italy, and particularly in the Campagna of Si [...]vessa, and Pozzuolo, are vents or breathings, so evil, that they evaporate a mortall air.
[Page 275]At the foot of the mountain which circles the Lak Anianus, not far from the said waters appears a Cave called Grotta di Cane, eight or nine paces in circuit, by which mouth two or more men may commodiously enter together: where from the inmost part of the stone, from its invisible pores proceed hot spirits, but so subtile and dry, that they carry not with them any similitude of smoke or vapour, although they condense the air, driven thither by the wind and the colds of the Cavern with great heat, and change them into water, as the d [...]ops demonstrate which hang at the entrance of the Cave, shining like little sta [...]rs, when they are beheld at the opening of the Cave, by those without in the light: they have been often▪ taken for drops of quicksilver. All men generally believe this Grotta to have such an innate property that if any living thing should pass the prefixed term of a certain ditch in the entrance, it would without doubt suddenly fall upon the earth, and would be wholly deprived of life, if not immediately drawn out, and cast into the near standing waters or pool, called Agnano, by whose coldness only in a short time by little and little it recovers Life. Whereof Travellers dayly make experiments, if curious to know the wonders of nature, by casting in cocks or dogs or some other live creature to which they fasten a rope to draw them up by. Leandro Alberto writes that Charls the eighth King of France, when a hundred and 14. yeers since he drove out the Spanish and for some time Lorded over Naples, caused an Asse to be driven in, who suddenly whirled about and dyed.
Another who two hundred yeers since wrote of these baths, relates, that a foot hardy rash Souldier, run in armed and dyed miserably: Corona Pighio writes, that in the presence of Charls Prince of Cleves, the Spanish Captains cast two cheerfull dogs by force into the Grotta: who strove all possible to avoid it, as if they had formerly experimented the danger; the which being taken out dead, by means of the refreshing waters in the aforenamed Lake were restored to life: one of which being again cast into the cave, and being thence drawn & cast into the Lake, returning not thereby to Life, was left for dead on the bank, who not long after as waking from a profound sleep raising himself, and limping and staggering, so soon as possible, ran away, every one that saw it smiled, and Charls praised the dog, that he would not for that time become a victime to the beares; after this tryal they cast a brands end lighted into the Grotta, beyond the prefixed sign, which come to the bottom seemed to extinguish, and raised up a little higher, to rekindle: which demonstrated that the spirits proceeding from the superficies, as more hot and dry in the bottom, consumed the more subtil nutriment of the flame, but having lesse vigour at more distance from the foundation, they rather rekindle the hot and gross smoke and flames of the brandsend: as we see the flame of a lighted candle will pass to another newly put out, by means of the so oke; and the beams of the Sun when united by a burning glass, are very vigorous and will set tow or flax on fire if approached too near. Pighius through his exceeding love to study, travialing over Italy, and having an extream desire to inquire into the nature of all things by which he might acquire knowledge, wondring at the reports of the miracles of Pozzuolo, [Page 276] resolved to search out the cause by a nearer scrutiny then had been made by others.
He could not beleive that those drops that hung so resplendent at the end of the Caverne, were quick-silver: wherefore being counselled by a certain juvenile and youthfull audacity, he passed the proposed measure in the Cavern; having enclined his body a little and getting somewhat nearer, he found they were drops of clear water, and taking them on his finger from the sharp pendent of the rock, he demonstrated the truth to his companions, requiring them either to beleive or enter and make proof.
Which also happened: for that Antonio Anistelo, and Arnoldio Niveldio, two Holandesi, noble youths and companions in the journey with Pighius, got near: who when he had for some time stood in the Cave, and perceived the heat, how it ascended from his feet to his leggs and knees, yet underwent no other then a giddiness and pain in his head; and sweat only on the forehead and the temples through the heat of the place: he learnt by experience that that heat, and those nocive vapours are not lusty and violent, but when near their rise; and there they kill small animals or great, but chiefly the four footed, because they alwayes go with their head downwards, whereby being necessitated to draw in with their breath those hot and boyling vapours, their vital spirits become suddenly suffocated with too much heat: the which also are as suddenly releived by the imediate refreshment of the waters in the Lake, if the animal be forthwith cast therein when drawn out of the Cavern. Whilst Pighius was performing this, an Italian who guarded some herds wondred strangely at his temerity, and remained astonisht at the success, many times demanding if he did it not by the magick art, nor would he be perswaded that Pighius could avoyd the nocivenesse of that Grotta, otherwise then by enchantment or witch craft: which made him mock at the plebeian simplicity, laughing at the vulgar, who for the most part attribute that to the Magick art, which appears wonderfull, and produceth stupendious effects, from their incapacity to comprehend the cause: but to return to our voyage.
From the Bucca Coronea, we are brought to Zolfettara, as at present they call those places which were of old celebrated with the invention of various fables of old Poets for these wonders of nature: who sing that the Gyants buryed under this mountain, even from hell cast forth of their throats, Flames at that time when earthquakes happen.
These Mountains are full of Sulphure, Allum, and Vitriol, the chief whereof as Strabo writes, stood pendent at a few paces distance from the Colonna of Pozzuolo now distant from the castle Novo, about a mile: from the form of which place, tis guessed, that the top of this Mountain was at last consumed and emitted into the profundity of the near valley by the continual fires, whence that which of old was a high and eminent top or head, is now a great ditch in the plain of a valley and that which was of old the ribs and [Page 277] flanks of a mountain, are now the upper part of shelfs and rocks, which surround the plain, with a certain fence in length about a thousand and fifty foot, in bredth about a thousand foot: Pliny writes that they were nominated from their whiteness Leucogei, and the plain or Level, Campagna Phlegerea, from the flame and fire there ever extant: which Silius the Italian confirms.
Cornelius Strabo calls this place the Piazza and shop of Vulcan, where likewise some fable, the Gyants to be overcome by Hercules: here the Mountains seem continually to burn at their roots: for that on all sides they emit smokes by many mouths which smell of sulphure which smokes are blowen by the wind all over the neighbouring Countrey, and sometimes to Naples. Antiently these Hills, as we draw from Dion Cassius and Strabo emitted greater fires, as also those about the Lucrino, and Averno, which are not a few, burnt and emitted like furnaces gross smokes and flames. Now the plain as also the hill Phlegrei are deprived of their perpetual flames and are cavernous in many places and become yellowish, as from the materiall and colour of sulphure: the earth when spurned by the foot, resounds like a drum, through its concavity underneath, where you may hear (with wonder) under your seet boyling waters, grosse and inflamed smokes to make a horrid noise, and run too and fro through the subterranean Caverns, which the force of the exhalation hath made, which how great you may thence guesse; stop any of those mouths or holes, with a good great stone, and you shall suddenly and with violence see it amoved by the strength of the smoke. Here they compose medicinable pots of brimstone.
In the same plain or level lies also a great marish filled alwaies with a black scalding hot water: which sometimes useth to change place, and the waters making themselves hard (as tryed sewit useth being cold to bind it self to the sides of the Vessel tis melted in) do thereby and with the force of the exhalation increase or diminish. When I was there it boyled with great noise and smoke, as if it had been a huge chauldron filled with blackish mud, and therefore exceeded not then its bounds and limits: but I remember, that at my view thereof, this Vorago mounted and cast up of asudden like a Pyramides, eight or nine foot high, (beyond the common stature of man,) that thick water yellow and of the colour of sulphure: which also the people of Pozzuolo affirm, adding that sometimes twill rise from sixteen to twenty four feet.
When the Sea is in a storm, this water is of various colours; though for the most part like sulphure, and sometimes other, according as the subterranean winds are disturbed by the sea blasts, and being in vigoured among the flames, with all possible force expels some of the earth mixed with divers colours from the deepest veins. These very winds, when most quiet under ground, the top of the Fens or moors being only disturbed, cause a gross thick water, coloured with black to be cast out. These things of such occult nature, do certainly afford usefull and welcome matter for consideration and study to such as love to search thereinto; which Cicero very pertinently terms, the natural food of the mind. And hence we certainly know, that the globe of the earth is not in every part solid, [Page 278] and massy, but in some places hollow, cavernous, and full of vains and pores, like as is the living body of any animal: and that with the continual motion of the imbodied elements, water and air, it becomes penetrated, and is by the same nourished, increased or diminished together with its several kinds and changes of plants, and that the earth soops up vast quantities of the Sea waters, disperst on it by means of those pores, the which being encountred by some fierce winds, occasion a motion of those waters in its inmost part, and in the straitest passages; and the same winds there split in sunder among the rocks and stones, grow violently hot, and kindle vast fires, the which con [...]uming whatever they meet, empty the internal parts of the earth, and drawing to themselves through those pores the neighbouring winds, together with great smokes; they there augment beyond measure, searching out an egresse, with horrible noise and shakings of the earth and mountains.
As more at large Cornelius Severus a most learned Poet hath declared in his AEnea, and hence proceed the earthquakes, whirlpooles, and openings of the earth, the forcing out of flames, the rivolets of fire, boyling fountains, and hot vapours. Dion Cassius writes that in his time, the said Mountains of Pozzuolo, had more fountains of running fire in the likeness of water, that through the excessive heat the water took fire and burnt, and the fires with the mixture of the waters acquired a fluxible corpulency, in such sort that these contrary elements, did not separate: and we find even in our time that the flames and sulphure, conserve and nourish themselves in these waters, and that they endure for so many ages and never consume, but alwayes continue and gush out in the same conduits, the which Severus the Poet graciously sets down in these verses.
So also he writes of the Phlegrean Fields and of the same place between Naples and Cuma, whereof we now discourse, viz.
As at present the King exhausts a great toll from that brimstone, and merchandize of allum. Wee observe furthermore, that these sulphurious or brimstone waters commixt with the saltness of the Sea, and with the ashes of burnings, turn into stone after they have cooled themselves by running a short course: and that they communicate the same faculty to those rivers and brooks with which they commix, whereof though a clear experiment cannot be had, yet that innate quality in all the rivers of Italy, as the Tyb [...]r, [Page 279] the [...]everone, the Lake of Luca, in the Nera and others of vesting the sides or brims of the banks and the Conduits whereby they pa [...]s as also the conserves and receptions of their standing pools, give sufficient proof. Besides tis as clear as the Sun, and dayly observed that their continued washing of wood, plants, arms, bodies and roots of trees, the stubble of herbs, and the leaves by little & little are covered with a kind of scurf of stone, and by revolving become by chance formed like comfits of ani [...]eeds, fennel, cinamon and almonds, and so much resembling such, that with no great difficulty some more greedy then wary have been cousened with them: and in truth what Vitruvius, Seneca, Dione, Pliny, and others have writ of the wonders of Vesuvius and Pozzuolo, seems beyond reason; to wit that the waters receive that nature and particularity from the tenuity of the ashes of the burned sulphure; which ashes the fire having in part reduced as small as atomes, in part dissolved into liquid moisture, and in part expelled by the vapours of the subterranean fires through the veins of the earth and by springs, we observe to be converted into that dust which the antients called Pozzuolo from the place; and that they unite so soon as they attain the waters, and cooling with them, attain the just substance of stone, and that the waters which run by those places mutually receive a certain nature of connexing to any thing, so that they easily cleave to the body they touch, and make it become stone,
And for wonders of this kind, scarce can any be found like those in the caves of the Apenines near the old chanel of the A [...]iene by Vico Varo, where the waters distilling through the clefts and chinks in the Rocks, in their fall by little and little form it self like stone, in the likeness of high Collumns in divers forms, branchy bodies of trees, and monstrous bodies of Centaures and Gyants; in which Caverns or labyri [...]ths of pure darkness, with candles may be found out objects which in one word, may worthily be said to feed and satiate the mind of the curious searcher into the secrets of nature: but beware that the light be not extinguished by the frequent flappings of the night bat [...], who thither retire as to a secure retreat by millions to avoid the light of the day.
Thus beholding the hills Leucogei, and the various surges of medicinal fountains, of baths, hot baths, and the Cavernes, you go to Pozzuolo, amids the great and spatious ruines of the antient Colony.
POZZVOLO.
THe Roman Empire flourishing, that maritime tract of Campania, about Cuma, Misena, and Pozzuolo, was in great reputation for the temperature of the air, the pleasantness of the scite, the quantity of good waters, and the extream fertility of the fields, and therefore replenished with great possessions of the Gentry, and proud Palaces, of the principal men: And to speak truth, no other part of Italy nor of the Provinces, or the world, appears more proper for [Page 280] the consumption of the Romans riches then that peice of Campania lying betweeen Capua and Naples, and extending to Cuma, where with good reason the common saying was that Bacchus and Ceres contended for superiority. the luxury and sensuality of which maritime places and Islands, made the old Poets in their antient fables of delights call these the house and habitation of the Syrenes: And this caused some old Poets and them of no small esteem to aver those things which happened between Ulisses and the Nymph Calipso, to have been acted in the Island of Pozzuolo and not in Ogygia a place of the Thebans, or in the Island of the Promontory of Lacinio; which Goddess by some called the daughter of Atlas, by others of Oceanus and Tethys, was held a Nymph of the Sea, and reigned in the Isle Ogygia, ▪ receiving Ulysses when he escaped drowning; and took this name from her adornments of body, and delights she liued in: Homer calls her a Nymph very well adorned with fair riches: And in truth who considers the shores of Pozzuolo, must in truth conclude that to his imagination, a more pleasant delightfull and glorious place cannot be found out than it, nor a Seat more inclined by nature to receive and carress Travellers; thence tis that the Poets of old feign that Ulysses there fixing and dwelling, recollected his many past peregrinations and perils, and also in the Isle Ithaca, whereof Dion Cassius and [...]hilostratus Lemnius, in the Life of Apollonius make mention. And although at present the whole is filled with ruines, and every thing lies even with the earth, through too intollerable sufferings by war and time, yet are there objects enow, which such as will reape any profit from the curiosity of the antient arts and histories, ought maturely and with great industry to consider. But to begin, Pozzuolo is a City scituate on a hill in the midst of a shore of the Sea, which though very fair and large, cannot yet be at all compared in any part with the riches and grandezza of the antient Colony, as may be clearly extracted from the wayes pitched with flint, and the foundations of publique edifices: whereof the Sea hath swallowed up one part, & earthquakes and wars the other. It was a most antient Colony of the Graecians w ch. the Samii conducted hither in the time of Tarquinius Superbus, in the sixty second Olimpiad, as the Chronologer Eusebius writes and Stephanus [...]ysantius confirms: which happened about the time that the republique of the Samii was ty ranized by the three Brothers, Policrates, Silus, and Pantagnostus. At that time also Pythagoras Samius, flying from his own Countrey in Morava, attained the potent City of Italy Croione, where he layed down a new Philosophy then called Italian, and by it acquired a high esteem: with whose Laws the Italian Cities (being reformed from the Graecian, by the indeavours of three hundred of his Scholars, as Diogenes Laertius writes) received the government of Aristocracy, under which they lived happily for many Ages. Others will likewise that the Colony of the Samii from the observance of the Justice of the most holy Empire, wherewith it was governed was called Dicearchia, by which name all the Greek writers stiled, it and many times after their example, the Latin. Strabo writes, Dicearchia was once the Piazza of the Cumani, and that afterwards the Romans called it Pozzuolo, either as some will from the many deep pi [...]s, or as others from the sulphurious stenches of the waters there arising; It became [Page 277] under the power of Romans in the warr with Hannibal, when Capua was taken by a seige, and severely chastised for the perfidie and ingratitude it exercised: from which was then taken its government and liberty, and annually sent thither from the Roman people a prefect to govern them, which happened the five hundred forty second yeer after Romes building: when many Castles and Cities ran the like fortune with it, for that they had with arms defended Hannibal as Titus Livius sets down, wherefore Sextus Pompeiu [...] sets Pozzuolo among the ten Praefectures of Campania, on which the Roman People every yeer imposed Governors: for all which some yeers after, they passed farther by disposition of the Acilian Law, to with that they sent thither a Colony of Roman Citizens, and made it one of the five maritimate Colonies, which were drawn from Rome in the five hundred and fifty ninth yeer by force of the Laws of the said Acilius the Tribune, as is clear in Titus Livius: being then Consuls Publiu [...] Scipio Africanus writes the second time, and Titus Sempronius. Vellejus Paterculus from the opinion of some, that the Colony was later sent thither, to wit 3 lustres or 15 yeers after the above written time, and addes that in sum the verity is not punctually known.
Yet verily the old memorials of Pozzuolo, copious enough in the house of Hadrianus Guilernus the most courteous, learned, and curious beyond measure in antient histories, wholly agree with Titus Livius: where is extant one of those stone Tablets, containing the second Law, the Regulation of publick edifices and expences there to be had: which was made in the Consulacy of P. Rutilius and Cn. Mallius Maximus, the six hundred forty and eight yeear as the Fa [...]ti Capitolini demonstrate, which happened in the ninth yeer after the conduct of that Colony to Pozzuolo, as these words set down on the beginning of the said Law clearly prove. ‘Ab Colonia deduct a anno XC. N. Eufidio N. F. M. Pullio Duum vir R. Rutilio. Cn▪ Mallio Cos. Operum. Lex. II.’
From which words we clearly comprehend, that the comencement of this Colony was under the Consulacy of Martius Portius Cato and L. Flaccus, in the five hundred forty eighth yeer, although Livius sets it down to have been the following yeer. Augustus being at last become Conqueror in the Civil wars, having restored peace, and shut up the Temple of Janus; for reward of the veteran Souldiers, disposed them into the 28 Colonies of Italy, among which Pozzuolo was one, then made a military Colony, as Suetonius writes and as may be drawn from the fragment of the Military Colonies.
From the above written observations is certainly known, how antient the Colony of Pozzuolo is, and that many times Inhabitants were thither sent and inrolled. And therefore this Author holds for very imperfect, and ill treated from the insufficiency or inobservancy of the remembrancer, what Tacitus sets down in the fourteenth book of his Annals: and so Justus Lipsius thinks also, for in the acts [Page 282] of Rome in the eighth hundred and twelfth yeer, the Emperor Nero and Cossus Lentulus being Consuls, we find these words of Tacitus. At in Italia vetus oppidum Puteoli jus Coloniae, & cognomentum a Nerone adipiscuntur, adding no more as if Pozzuolo for no preceding time had the quality of a Colony, whereas Titus Livius clearly proves it to have been in that condition two hundred and forty yeers before: but these two may be easily reconciled, by the adjusting of one single word, to wit the writing it verus instead of vetus: in these words. At in Italia verus Oppidum Puteoli novum jus Coloniae, & coguomentum a Nerone adipiscuntur: for that being at first called Colonia Augusta, with Nero it was called Augusta Neroniana, and thence tis that Tacitus saies that Pozzuolo obtained a new condition with a new name: but Tacitus not explaining the occasion why then a Colony was sent thither, or who gave it new condition, and what that condition was, the place seems to want more then one word: and because the particle At separates the word afore specified and the difference of things and the particle non tamen is placed in the midst of the period which followes, this place is therefore believed defective and that therefore these words set a cloud before the eyes, and scruples in the studies of the curious, which this Author hath thought not easily removable without some supplement to that place of Tacitus to the effect following, viz. At in Italia verus Oppidum Puteoli novum ius Coloniae, & cognomentum adipiscuntur aequè cladem passi: Queis irrit [...]m Principis beneficium facere Coloni ex diversis legionibus undecunque coa [...]ti, numero licet frequentes, ut veterem Tarentium, & Antium adscripti, non tamen infrequentiae locorum subvenere, dilapsis pluribus in Provincias, in quibus stipendia expleverant: And thus will the diffe rence be known between what [...]ell out to Pozzuolo, and what to Laodicea, by the copulation At: of which Cities this returned to its proper state by its own power, the other not, although it assisted the Prince, as did happen to Tarento, and Antio, the occasion of which misfortune Tacitus gratiously declares.
The learned are intreated to have due consideration of this place and to note the defects with a stelletta. To return then to our first purpose: the Author when he copied out those in scriptions, whilest there permanent, it occurred to him, that a Colony was of new conducted to Pozzuolo under the Empire of the Vespasiani, and was called Flavia, for that he espied among those old stones, a great square marble one engraven with letters of a foot long a piece, the which by being continually exposed to the surges of the Sea, hath its characters almost eaten out, yet not so wholly but that one may read the third part of the elogy inscribed in the old Marble Arch, the which the Flavian Colony erected to express a gratefull sence to Antonius Pius Caesar for his liberality in restoring the ports: which part of the Elogy will hereafter be repeated. In the mean time behold in Pozzuolo and its neighbourhood, the meritorious objects: Among others a vas [...] Church now entitled S. Proculo Martire, the which of old Calphurnius had dedicated to Augustus Caesar: tis built in a corinthian order, as may be understood by the Porticue, containing one peice of the old title in the frontispeice in these words. ‘ [Page 283]L. Calphurnius L. F. templum Augusto cum ornamentis. D. D.’
All Authors question who this Calphurnius the Son of Lucius was, chiefly for that there were so many Calphurnij, and they famous in the time of Augustus: and if it be lawfull to make use of conjecture none comes nearer then mine, that L. Calphurnius Son of Lucius called Pisone Frugi, after he had been Consul and Prefect of Provinces, was also Prefect of Rome, after T. Statilins Taurus, who was twice Consul and triumphed: he exercised this very charge in the time of Augustus and Tiberius for twenty yeers, as Tacitus in the fifth Book of his Annals sets forth; who writes that his father was a man appertaining to the Censor: whence tis impssioble but L. Pisone must have been his Father, of whom the eloquent tongue of Cicero speaks so much ill, as that he was banished whilst he was Consul. He was then Censor in the seuen hundred fifty and third yeer, whilst Caesar Dictator warred against the confederates of Pompey. Among all the greatest charges and employments which the Calphurnian family participated, they only twice administred▪ the Censorship. The first time L. Pisone Frugi was Censor after the Consulacy, in the 695 yeer of Rome who being Tribune of the People, prevailed for that Law against the rapine of the Provincial Magistrates: and the second time fifty eight yeers after,
This Temple is so well built, that in the space of so many ages neither Time the consumer of all things, nor the insolencies of enemies, who have many times destroyed the rest of the City, have been able to ruinate, which could not come otherwise to passe the [...] from the beams being composed of marble, in which scarce a fastning appears: yet the impetuous force of the earthquakes have in part moved it out of order, in such sort that the right angle of the Frontispiece is faln with a part of the Title, where certain ruptures appear.
Of such esteem was this Fabrick, that the architectors were not ashamed the work being finished to place their name there: being Luccio Cocino Liberta of Luca, and Caio Postumi, as we read in the left wall of the Church in these words. ‘L. Cocceius C. Postumi L. Auctus Architect.’
Many other holy sacred places that were therein are either faln to nothing▪ or at least wise very badly handled. The Temple of Neptune as Cicero affirms was the most famous, of which some great Fragments to this day remain near San Francesco, as vaults, arches, huge wals & other places with their nooks for the statues: but its columns and high ornaments of marble are taken away. Also near the Amphitheatre, are the footsteps & ruines of a Temple, which Antonius Pius Augustus had erected to Adrian the Emperor his Father who dyed [Page 280] at Baia in the Mannor house of Cicero as Spartianus relates. Some yeers last past many fair statues and vast peices of Columnes and Marbles were amoved, together with the Elogies of Nerva, Trajan and Adrian the Emperors, that is to say of the Father, Grandfather and great Grand-Father: to whom Antonius (having created them Gods) had [...] sacerdotal sacrifices, of the Flamins and their companions: and hence some believe he obtained the surname of Pius the Pious, as we are instructed from the aforesaid Spartianus, and by Julius Capitolinus.
The Temple of the NYMPHES extant on the Sea Shore without POZZVOLO.
IT seems very likely that either the Sea or Earthquakes have swallowed up the temple of the Nymphs, the which, we read in the 8th, Book of Philostratus Cennius in the life of Apo lonius Tianeus Domitianus the Emperour built on the sea shore without Pozzuolo: he writes that twas built with white stone, and that of old twas famous for divination, and that in it was found a fountain of running spring water, from the which though any quantity were taken away, twas never perceived to diminish; but this with [...]nfinite other antiquities is now gone to nothing; yet now is evident at a little distance from the Land near the Via Campana in the Sea a fountain of sweet water, which gurgles to this day with great force; whose source may be alwaies perceived almost to admiration, if the Sea be quiet and calm: let the studious of antiquity consider if in this place the Temple of the Nymphes may have been, which conjecture will not seem far from truth upon weighing the words of Philostratus, who relates, that Apolloneus Trineus appeared to his two D [...]sciples Damides and Demetrius was in the Temple of the Nymphes on the Sea shore without Pozzuolo, who were disputing the nature of the abovenamed fountain, where also is the Island of Calissus to whom the successes of what happened with Ulisses they relate in the fables.
Furthermore, as twere in the midst of the Colony, remains yet a most huge Amphitheatre little lesse then entire, composed of squared stones, the which not withstanding its ill treatment by earthquakes the taking away many of its stones, and the plowing of its soyl, yet appears in its first form, enlarged into a more l [...]rge circuit, then was usual for the Emperors, & Leandro Alberto saies that by measuring he found it to be in length in the plain within, 172 foot, in bredth only 92. foot.
Ferrante Loffredo Marques of Trevico affirms, this the most antient Amphitheatre, supposing it to be built before Rome, lost its liberty [Page 285] under the Emperours, from an old inscription in marble there found, demonstrating under what Consuls this Fabrick was repaired at the publick expence of the Citizens of Pozzuolo: which inscription although much sought for by me, I had not the good hap to see.
Many fragments of Acqueducts are yet to be seen, which either passed through or surounded the Mountains: nor is it an easy matter to number the conserves for the waters made in divers formes, some entire, and some ruinated by earthquakes, many of which are under ground and very large, which who enters, without a clue of thread, a light, or a well practised guide, may dwell there for ever, so intricate are the labyrinths, built without gates, heads or turning streets: from which we may assuredly know, that the Romans with vast expence thither drew, and therein preserved great plenty of those sweet waters, abounding on that Maritimate coast. The vulgar unskilled in old history, as in all things very ignorant, have most injuriously expressed themselves, in giving ridiculous names to these edifices, calling them, Piscine mirabili, wonderfull fishpools, Cento Celle, the hundred Cells, and Grotte Draconarie, Dragons Caves. Soe also have they handled the fountains and baths in number forty or more between Pozzuolo, Misseno and Cuma, of divers sorts, and efficacious for sundry diseases. But tis not our purpose to look back and take notice by one and one of these things, having already set forth whatever is there rare and worthy view; we shall therefore referre such as desire more ample and compleat satisfaction in the like objects to Leandro Alberto, and the other writers herein before mentioned.
The description of the Antient Port of POZZUOLO.
SUch and so great wonders, as here by degrees present themselves to the view of the Traveller as he approaches the Sea side, may well entertain him; for like mountains in the waters rise the immense moles of the old Port, that is, thirteen immense Piles, which spring out of the water like square Towers, which in old time were conjoyned in manner of a bridge by frequent arches, but now by fortune and antiquity those gross engines are separated, and the falling down of some of the Arches renders it unpassable from one to the other: which must have been caused either from earthquakes or the furious Sea, the whole fabrick being composed of burned earth like bricks of two foot square, not easily to be divided and broke down by any other accident.
Tis certainly known, that when this Port was in being, it extended it self into the Sea, in form of a large bridge, and bending it [Page 286] self in the fashion of a bow, reached the shore and the Avernus, and so defended the place from the raging force and storms of the Sea, whose haughtinesse was comodiously bridled by means of those Moles.
And tis believed that the Antients there made those Arches, to the end that through them the sea waters might enter into the Port, and by its continual flowing and ebbing keep it cleansed of the mud, which the rivers and rain waters brought down in to it from the Terra firma and the neighbouring hills, through which in their course to the Sea those waters must first passe; and it had not been possible to avoid the filling up of that port in few yeers, by that perpetual inroad of durt, had not the Sea waters through those Arches continually purged it of that mud and filthinesse so drove into it: and this the inconvenience in the port of Naples and divers others, who are only surrounded with a bank without arches, sufficiently proves.
Suetonius in the life of Caligula from its vastnesse calls it the Mole of Pozzuolo, from whence thorough the midst of the Gulf of the Sea, Caligula, as he writes, to shew his greatness and vanity, and to be able to tread and walk on the Sea as well as upon the Land; or as Dion saies because he would imitate King Xerxes, who passed his Army out of Asia into Europe over the streight of Hellespont upon a wooden Bridge: commanded to be brought together and new built all the ships he could get, which were infinite, and therewith caused a Bridge to be made with the said Ships set in two Banks fastened and moored together with anchors chains and cables, which made them stand fixt and firm, and extended even to Baias through the gulf of the Sea: he commanded this bridge to be made of boords so strong and even and to lay so much earth upon the same, as it seemed to be firm ground and one of the streets of Rome like the Strada Appia. This being finished, he proudly attired in Robes of Gold and pearl, and a crown of Oaken boughes on his head (called Civica,) on horseback entred at one end of the bridge and road to the other, accompanyed with the Band of the Pretorian Souldiers, and all the Nobles and Gentlemen of Rome: and the next day returned habited like a Campanian, in a Chariot, with a great multitude of his Friends. Dion writes that the night he lay on this bridge, he caused such an infinite number of Torches, lanthorns and other Lights, to be lighted and set up, that the clearnesse thereof did exceed the darknesse of the night: Caligula boasting, that he had made of the night day, and of the Sea Land; & because it happened that these two days the Sea was calm, he said that Neptune did it for feare & to do him Reverence; Suetonius adds, that Caligula having invited many, who being on the shore ready to goe on the Bridg where himself was, he turned them all over, breaking the bridg, and commanded some that endeavoured to catch hold of the ropes of the Vessels, to be forced into the water with oars and other staves, which served for a jest and pleasant spectacle to this Monster: Seneca in his 78th. Epistle calls this Machine by the name of Pila, saying Omnis in Pilis Puteolanorum turba consistit, cum Alexandrinarum navium conspicitur adventus. And therefore this Machine, in a serene sky served to those of Pozzuolo to passe and walk on, as if they had been in a [Page 287] Piazza▪ At the entrance on this Mole as aforesaid was a large Arch built of Marble, dedicated to the Emperor Ant onius Pins by those of Pozzuolo, by way of gratitude for his remembrance of their Republique with liberality in moneys for repairing the Port, as we find from that piece of an Elogy aforementioned, here set down, for the benefit of such as delight in these particulars,
The entire contents whereof cannot easily be comprehended from these few remaining characters, but may in some sort be supplied from the said words, and the marks of the Lines wherewith those characters appeare, which being formed to our thoughts, seem after manner.
Julius Capitolinus much favors the subject of this elogy, by what he writes in the life of Antoninus Pius, to wit that he gave moneys to many Cities, to the intent they should either erect new publick structures, or restore the old.
The Promontory of MISENO,
THus having viewed the old and great foundations of the Piazzza and the Port, passe by bark directly from the Mole to the Promontory of Miseno, famous and immortal by the verses of Virgil, and the writings of other good Authors. This mountain lies in the Sea, and is boared and hollow, full of grotts and caverns, which made the Poet much to the purpose and with no lesse ingenuity to stile it AErio or ayry, as if he would denote it windy, by reason of the waies and concavities in it self, saying further, that under it, AEneas gave sepulture to Misenus his dead Trumpeter & man of oars, or as Servius writes afterwards sacrificed to the Avernus as in his sixt he saies.
Seeming by the Oare and the Trumpet, to glance at the future famousnesse of that Port, and of the Armada or Fleet, which Augustus had then placed there for defence of the Mediterranean Sea, under E. M. Agrippa, And Dion commemorates, that Augustus being made Captain, made use of it for the harbour of the Fleet in the Sicilian warr, against Sextus Pompeius, where they then lay in the sea between Miseno and Cuma, environed with hills, in form of a crescent, a place very capacious and more then opportune for the Navy at Sea, by reason of those three gulfes of the Sea, scituate between Baia and Pozzuolo, that is the Lake of Baia, the Lucrino, and the Averno, the which Lucius Florius calls by a most gratious Metaphor, the Ease of the Sea: of which the Averno now called Mare Mortuum, being included, where it issueth out with fand, seems a stagne or Moore about a thousand paces distant from the allodgment of the Armada. And therefore the neighbouring precincts, as also the Miseno, began to be accommodated for the Souldiers stations, for that the Fleet there was wont to winter, and both Strabo, and Servius: the Commentators upon Virgil, report, that the wood and Trees on Averno were cut down, because they through their thicknesse rendred the air offensive, and prejudicial to the health of the Inhabitants: furthermore hills were boared thorough, and leuel waies layed, to the end there might be a short and facile accesse to the shores of Baia and Lucrino. And that fresh water might never be defective, with infinite expence and no lesse labour, Rivolets from Rivers and fountains from springs were conveyed thither from a far off: cisterns and conservatories were built, (vast enough) in divers figures as the conveniency of the place afforded, both in the plain and under the ground, and in the very bowels of the hil, that so cold water might be at all times ready for refreshing the bodies in the excessive heat of the Summer: tis for these reasons that we find the Miseno in great part, hollow and concave within, and exposed to the air to the very top. In which we see sitting places for washing, baths, lakes, and tables for eating: being within full of grotts, waies and edifices arched, here and there sustained by frequent pillars, part built with brick, part cut out of the same rock; among which edifices the biggest conservatory of the waters called vulgarly Grotta Dragonacia is admi rable, as are the conveyances into it: for the rain waters descending from the Promontory; the which Grotta is capable of many thousand butts, being large beyond measure, and twnety five foot deep: the largness not being to be measured, for that the vaults and ruines fallen into it have filled many parts of it: all these conservatories are incrusted or plaistered with a certain hard composition used by the antients for rendring them tenable of the waters, so that none could pass nor soak thorough: the inward space between the walls, is two hundred foot long, and eighteen broad: having four doors through which is entrance into four great chambers: near these are other conserves different in artifice and grandeur.
That which vulgarly they call Cento Camere, from the multitude [Page 289] of abodes (by some thought to be Nerva's prison, where among the other Fabricks they preserved their waters, is wonderful for the vastnesse and art wherewith tis built: its walls within are conj [...]ined within in squares, and support the vaults, forming every where square chambers, which on all sides have small doors by which may go from one to the other the servants, whose office twas when the waters were spent to cleanse them of the dirt and soyle: the vaults of these chambers have certain open holes, whereby the waters might be drawn up as occasion required. The Piscina Mirabili or Pool for water was admirable and famous, and known by this name, the which is yet almost entire on the back of the Promontory of Miseno, toward the Port for the Navy, and Cuma. This Fabrick Leandrus Albertus affirms, is inclosed by four walls, is five hundred foot long, and two hundred and twenty broad: and the Vault somewhat higher: raising a little archwise from the walls, it riseth higher towards the middle, being supported upon forty eight columns, each of which is three foot square, which being disposed into four ranks represent a beautifull and proportionable object for the whole length. The whole Fabrick is composed of brick, and the walls being of a great thicknesse, render it of an extream firmnesse; both the Walls and Pillars with in are exactly incrusted as useful to keep them from leaking: and in the arch are many open ovals for drawing up the waters: at each end were forty steps for descent to the very bottome. The Pavement on the sides is higher even to the midst of the Porticue: whence was a descent by fiue steps into a lesser chamber on each side, and thence was a descent into another very narrow inclosed place, into which tis supposed the waters purged their filth and uncleannesse, the which was afterwards exhaled by the publique officers for this purpose called Castellarij, from these conservatories of waters being denominated Castella in Latine.
All the Pavement is Terras beaten, with all art and diligence, so that to this day it holds the rain water like a dish in the lowest part of it.
Many variously conjecture who should be the first builders of so vast Fabricks: some whereof suppose, L. Licinius Lu [...]ullus to have been the first Author, and that this was built out of the ruines of the said Lucullus his Villa, which Plutarch and Varro write he built most proud in the Tract of Baia neare the Promontory of Misenus: with whom agree Suetonius and Cornelius Tacitus, who write that Tiber [...]us the Emperor dyed in the same Villa, whence (hindred by the storms at Sea being sick) he could not sayle over to the Island Caprea. Others think this was the Fabrick of Nero, and thence tis to this day called Peschiera di Nerone, and Suetonius writes that he began a Peschery extending from Baia to Avernus, covered and shut in by porticues
But this conjecture pleaseth not me much, nor any other who hath diligently seen those places, who know the use of the like Fabricks to have been meerly for conserving of waters: and for that these three Fabricks afore described, lye so contiguous one to the other, it may not be far from the purpose to imagine that [...] and the Princes his successors, built them for the use of the [...]leet, since it is assuredly known, the Souldiers thereof there continually lodged [Page 290] and wintred, some vast fragments of their military lodges yet being extant: and I remember that I copied out some Epitaphs of the Souldiers of the Armada, from the near sepulchres, wherein are placed the names of the Pretorian ships, as Fede, Isede; Gallo, wherein they had served, whereof some brief ones for delight of the studious of antiquity hereunder follow. ‘D. M. Ti Porroniceletis. Nat. Alex. Ex. III. Isidevix. Ann. XL. Mil. am. XIIII. Titi. Us. Aquilibus Epidius Parisi III. Isid. H. A. M. fecerunt. D. M.’ ‘C. Senio Severo. Manipulato ex III. Fide Natione Bessus. Vixit annos XLVI. Emilius dolens Erei E. M. Fecit. D. M.’ ‘C. Julio Quarto. Ver▪ Ex. Pr. N. Gallo. M. Cecilius Felix. S. In [...]ia. Heraclia S. & S.’
These had the captainship of the Fleet, who constantly resided there: as was Anicetus the libertine of Nero, who was first his Master, by means of whose frauds, these there slew near the Bauli, Agrippina his Mother. In such a command (though different from this) was Pliny the writer of the natural history, in the time of Vespasian at Misenus, and there governed the Armada and Navy, at the eruption and burning of the Vesuvius, being with it shaken by the earthquake: but approaching too near with his ships, to assist the oppressed Souldiers, and to satisfie his curiosity in the occasion of those fires, he was stifled by the ashes and vapours of this burning mountain as aforesaid: where with his uncle Pliny was also G. Celius the son of his sister, who related this story more at large to Tacitus the Historian. And certainly waters were preserved in these Fabricks for use and delight, both in Lucullus his Villa, and many other places very numerous in that piece of a fair country, all over which run pipes, shores, and chanels. All the Sea shore and strond is deformed by the ruines of Towns and Villages, of old full of houses and inhabitants, in particular that part between Formia and Surentum moves compassion in the passers by at Sea: which in the flouri shing time of the Roman Empire, presented to their view at a distance the effigies of a continued City, by the quantity of structures, and proud Palaces, beautifyed with all splendour, pompous and vastly expensive: and would any take that pains now as by a strict serutiny to take a particular account, or to draw draughts, and exquisite descriptions; enough of importance might be found to [Page 281] satisfie his own Curiosity, and to fill up a new commentary, nay a just volume.
The Palaces were wont to be very pompous in those parts on the Maritime coasts, being 150 miles in length: Which was so filled with Palaces, Cities, Towns, Burghs, Baths, Theatres, and such other proud and magnificent Fabricks, beginning at Baia, and so continuing to F. Herculanus and Voliurnus, that they seemed not separate, but one great and fair City, to which no prospect could be comparable: But in this our time all things there are ruinated except Naples the head of the Kingdome, and residence of the Viceroy and some other great Princes.
The Ville or Palaces of pleasure of the ROMANS.
THat we may gratefully please the studious in these things, we thought it not from the purpose to run over some of the more noble Villes, which the Romans had built in these parts. That famous Palace then of Lucullus stood in the Terra Forma, near the Promontorie of Misenus, discovering the top of the near high hill and the other lesser between the port & gulf of Baia, where he first bought of Cornelia the Villa of Sc. Marius, banished by L. Sylla, which he amplified with Fabricks, Gardens, and sumptuous Fishpools; the spaces of which Gardens appear to this day, towards Cuma not far from the Cento Camere, and footsteps of the Pescheries at the shore of Baia, with grots, and standing pools cut into the foot of the Rock by art, that they might be a refuge and defence to the Fish from the scorching Sun in hot weather: as M. Varro sets forth, saying that L. Lucullus had given order to his architectors to consume as much money as they pleased, so they made a sufficient defence for the Fish against the heat of the Sun, and provided them secure retreats under the mountains, so that when this work was compleated he might say, he needed not envy Neptune himself for goodnesse of fish: which shews that he had fishpools in many places. And in the said Marcus Varro, Q Hortensius the Orator reprehends M. Lucullus for that he had not after the example of L. Lucullus his Brother, provided for the conveniency of his fish, a retreat into the Fresco, from the scorching beams of the Sun. Tis thought the Villa of M. Lucullus stood at the foot of the mountain Misenus towards the Isle Procyda, antiently called Prochyte, where under the waters may yet be perceived great ruines of Pescharies.
Villa Di Q. HORTEENSIO.
QUintus Hortensius had his Mannor house in the breast of Baiano near Bauli, whereof some reliques yet appear on the shores, and some are covered by the waters: tis most certain and famous that he had then most fair fishpools, w [...]th some grots cut into the mountain for the refuge of his fish from the Suns ardoui: so much were they then given to the like pleasures: for which C. Cicero taunting him) calls him God of the Sea, and the most happy in his pescheries, in that he had so domesticated the fish, that they came at his c [...]ll when they heard his voice; and much condoles the death of [...]is Muraena, the Bennet fish, which tis thought by s [...]me will stay a ship if it stick to it: of whom a fri [...]nd of his [...] a pair of his Mullets, he answered he woud rather give h [...]m two mules out of his litter. Pliny writes that after Q. Hort [...]rsius, Ant [...]nia the [...]other of Claudius the Emperor possessed these [...] pools with the same humour, and that she so much loved a [...], that she caused earrings of gold to be put on him in the wate [...]s: and that those places were so famous for this fact, that mary [...] to [...]auli purposely to behold it. Tis not certain [...] Ne [...]o t [...]e Emperor caused Agrippina his mother to be sl [...]in in this very Villa, but if n [...]t there, twas not farr from it, as may be collected from Cornelius Taci [...]us in the 14th book of his Annals.
Domitia the Aunt of Nero had a Villa in that neighbourhood: whereof in the 13 book of Tacitus is some memorial, and Dion [...]ssius saies that Nero having poisoned Domitia his Aunt, poss [...]ssed [...] of her Livings near Bauli, and Raven [...]a: the contrary whereof [...]lius I am pridrius reports of the Emperor Alexander Severus, to wit that besides many Palaces he built in Rome, in honour of Julia Momea, his mother, he built one most sumptuous with its Pescher [...]es calling the place Mamea, which Ferrante Lofredo, Marques of Trevico supposeth to stand in the midst of Baia, where he likewise erected many other in honour of his Parents.
The Villa Of C. PISO.
THis stood under the mountain near the hot fountains: hither Nero, (leaving the other charges of importance) often retired for his solace, as Tacitus declares in the 15th. book of his Annals. Tis supposed that in this Villa, Nero entertained his mother Agrippina at table many hours under pretence of the festival Quinquatrus: a feast celebrated to Pallas five daies, but with intention to make her return by night to her Villa at Bauli, having before hand given order that in the return, the Bark (wherein she was) should be sunk, and she thereby be drowned, as Suetonius and Tacitus relate.
The Villa of C. MARIUS, of CAESAR. and of POMPEY.
IN these confines likewise C. Marius, Caesar, and Pompey, had their houses of pleasure, as Seneca tells us in the second Epistle, but they stood on the very tops of hills, so that they had more the faces of Castles and Forts and places made purposely to protect the Countrey below, then of Pallaces for solace. Pliny speaks of that of Marius in the 6th chapter of the 18 book, which was afterwards possessed and amplifyed by Lucullus, near the Promontory of Misenus, towards the Port. But the Villa of Caesar stood above Baia and on the top of the Mountain, as Tacitus testifies in the 15th book of his Annals, whose vast foundations remain to this day under their old name, neare the Temple of Venus. That of Pompey, they say, was on the third Mountain, between the Avernus and the contiguous Tritullian hot baths, whence the surname they yet retain: and there some yeers since was found a statue of Pompey.
The Villa Academica of Marcus Tullius CICERO.
Pliny in the second Chapter of his thirty first book declares, that the Villa of Cicero (made so famous by his writings) was in these quarters between the Avernus and Pozzuolo, upon the Sea shore with a [Page 294] most delicious grove and a spacious hall to walk in, wherefore Cicero called it an Academy in imitation of that at Athens, wherein they ordinarily disputed walking. Here Cicero made his sepulchres: and so much was he pleased with it, that he often spoke of it, and entitled some of his books from it, Questiones Academicae: Academick questions. Atticus being in Athens, Cicero in almost every letter recommended his Academy, that he might send to him from Greece, whatever could be had for ennobling it with fair ornaments, wherein Atticus failed not, according to the occasions, in statues, pictures and other the like ornaments. Whence Cicero in his Epistle ad Attiticum, praiseth his diligence and the things sent him.
Cicero being retired hither in the calamitous times of the Republique to spend away the time, toyl, and troubles with Books, many of the Principal Romans repaired thither to visit him, and take some counsel. Of them was C. Caesar after the victory he obtained in the civil warr, C. Octavius the Successour of Julius, yet before he made himself Emperour, with infinite others: but after that Cicero was banished, the Villa Academica was possessed by C. Antistius, who was the Legat of Caesar, and followed his faction in the civil wars. A little after Ciceroes death, in his Villa, sprung up fountains of hot water, good among other things for the eyes and sight, celebrated by Tullius Taureus the freeman of Cicero, with an Epigram set down among the works of Pliny, who wrote this successe, and judged that Epigram worthy of memory. We must believe that this Villa stood where now the Stadio is, taking that name from the length of Ciceroes hall, whose ruines yet remain so distinctly, as that it may be measured how long twas: and although this Stadio, seem to stand too far from the Sea, in respect of that we read touching Ciceroes Academy, yet this will not create any difficulty: since the Sea may be in so long a space of time through divers causes retired; because truely this Villa in Ciceroes time stood over water, at leastwise conducted from the Sea, by certain channels, so that he eating at table, might cast into the waters for the fish to eat, & angle and fish at his pleasure. The hot fountains are extant in a neere field, in a cavern underground at the root of the hill, which are also of wonderfull nature, because they increase and decrease according to the flowing and ebbing of the sea, by day and by night: in their increase they cast abundance of water into the bath, and when full, part of the water returns to the fountain, and part runs into the Sea by a certain small chanel or gutter made to that purpose.
This Bath vulgarly called Bagno Ciceroniano, the Ciceronian bath, and by phisicians, Praetense or Tritulliano is as gallant and entire an antiquity as any in the Tract of Pozzuolo: These waters were so soveraign not many years since over most diseases, that over every bath was written for what cures twas good, of which inscription some letters yet stand: but the phisicians of Palermo (as they tell the story) finding those waters prejudicial to their custom, went with instruments expresly & demolish't those writings (so that for the present they are unusefull) the said phisicians being all cast away in their return. Thus much shall suffice touching Ciceroes famous Villa, for that Leander and other writers treat sufficiently of its nature and others thereabouts. From the commencement of Ciceroes Academical [Page 295] questions is comprehended, that the Villa of Ter. Varro a most learned Roman was not far distant, but the determinate place is unknown.
The Villa of SERVILIUS VATIA.
SEneca demonstrates in his fifty second Epistle to Lucullus, that on the shore between Cuma and the Lake Avernus stood the Villa of Servilius Vatia, the magnificence and vastness of which Fabrick may be comprehended from the fragments yet extant. He saies two Caves were here built with great expence, into the one whereof the Sun never entred, and on the other it shone from morning to night, into w ch. ran a delicious water through as pleasant a Meadow with many Fish. Hither Servilius a noble and rich Man retired himself at such time as Tiberius Caesar afflicted many noble Romans, and applyed himself to honest Labour far from Rome in peace, for which he was styled happy, and obtained the fame of knowledge in his affaires above others; by that meanes avoyding dangers. Touching the dead and other notable things others have abundantly writ, let this therefore suffice, for the purpose of the Baianian celebrious Villa's, since of the other particulars in the times of those old Roman Princes, tis impossible to treat exactly, all things being so wholly ruinated and destroyed that scarce any footsteps remain.
The old City of BAIA.
The most fair foundations and pitched Piazzaes of the old City Baia, lye underneath the waters, scarce any fragments remaining on the Land: but in the neighbouring Mountains in every corner lye baths, hot baths, and structures of Admirable Architecture, notwithstanding that many great Fabricks were burnt, many thrown down by earthquakes and many swallowed up by the Earth. In the Sea may be clearly seen the great old Piles of the Port of Baia, like those of Pozzuolo, built of Brick with intollerable expence, which now seem like Rocks, as do the enclosures and foundations, which of old stood for defence of the Lakes Lucrinus and Avernus, against the storms of the Sea: which was genenerally believed to be made in this manner, to wit, that Hercules by his strength, upon two carts abrest, drew as large a peice of Earth as [Page 296] was requisite, and that a mile in length to the place, and there fixed it: and therefore Posterity for a perpetual remembrance and acknowledgement of so great a benefit, erected to him a Round Temple near Bauli, whereof some fragments yet are extant. But afterwards, that repair being wasted by the Sea, C. Caesar again restored and bettered it, as may be collected from Virgils Georgicks and from Servius his Commentator; with whose opinion Suetonius seems to accord, saying that Augustus perfected the Julian Port near Baia, whence tis supposed that Julius Caesar had first setled it: which must have been in his first Consu [...]lship by Commission of the Senate, who gave him that charge at the instance of the Receivers of the Customs and Tolls, upon their allegation, that the customes and Tolls much decayed in value through the ruine of that Port: which was afterwards called Julia, from the Reaccomodators name Julius Caesar. So saies Servius upon these verses in the second of the Georgicks.
A wonderfull Adventure.
In our times, that is in the yeer 1538 (those adjacent Fields and places being for two whole yeers before shaken moved and disturbed) in the end, the night of the twenty ninth day of September, between the foot of the mountain Gaurus and the Sea near the aforesaid Lakes, there arose a new mountain called Monte Novo a mile high in the upright, which now is in circuit at the bottome four mile. A miraculous thing to fall out in one night. At the birth of this mountain the shore and the waters of the Sea retired the space of two hundred spaces, one great and entire town called Tripergolano, was entirely swallowed up by the Vorago and gulf of the earth, with some of its baths which were very celebrious: and the near Lakes Avernus and Lucrinus were almost filled up with stones earth and ashes. This was thought to have proceeded from the ashes which came out of Sulfatara: how many other old memorials this new mountain hath covered cannot be known. On the top of it is a large mouth about 50. paces in circuit, which at the beginning vomited out fire, at the bottome whereof are now found warm waters.
The Lake AVERNUS.
THe Lake ▪ Avernus hath been illustrated by the most esteemed Poets, and diligently described by Strabo and other Historians, for the Fables sake (which the Antients gave credit to) appropriated to it. For this was consecrated to Pluto the God of hell. Hereabouts as Fame went was the Poets Acheron or descent into hell, and here was the gate of hell thorough which they caused to rise the infernal Spirits, when any humane creature was sacrificed unto them. And hence the Gimerian Priests (the antient Inhabitants of this place sent down (by certain Caverns) into hell to find Pluto, such Travellers and strangers as came to be resolved in any questions, or to receive counsel or answer from Pluto. To this day the vulgar believe, that through the Caverns in the neighbouring hill, (hence denominated Monte della Sibylla) one may descend to the subterranean residence of the Sibylla Cumana, and that there she is seen and consulted by many, which things Leandrus Albertus in his Italia diligently advertiseth. Lactantius saieth that she among the other Sybils prophesyed of Christ. The Inhabitants further hold for certain, that Christ returning from Limbus with the souls of the holy Fathers, arose out of the earth through a certain mountain near the Lake Averuus and the Monte Novo, and therefore they call that Mountain by the name of Monte di Christo: which opinion some old Poets confirm, writing of the Baths of Pozzuolo.
And another.
Twas also believed by the multitude of hot waters springing out all over those quarters, that this Lake reached to a vein of the infernal waters, and therefore called Palude Acherosia, the Acherontick Fenns, from which Maro disagrees not, when he saies.
Though in truth this false opinion was augmented by the natural quality of the places, and other circumstances: to wit some rare and stupendious miracles which have there come to passe. Then as to the Avernus, know it lies in a low Valley, almost surrounded by [Page 298] high hills, clothed of old with thick and heavy Trees capable to keep out the wind.
Whence the Lake was not frequented by any, but emitting an unwholsome sulphurous stink, it so infected the air above it (by being so closely [...] by mountains and woods) that Birds flying over it fell down dead: and thence twas named by the Latins Avernus, that is to say, without Birds. So also may we collect from Livy, that in old time this Vale was a horrid place and esteemed altogether inaccessable: for saith he, the Romans waging war against the Samniti, the enemies (when the Romans put them to flight) by whole Armies retreated into the Woods in the said Vale, as to secure places.
But Strabo writes not so of it in his time, but saies, that then this vale and nearer hills were delitious places, in respect Augustus had caused the woods to be felled, and a free passage opened to the air. At present the Lake is full of fish and water-foul, nor hath it any of those incommodities attributed to it by the antients. Yet tis true that not many ages since, a vein of sulphurous pestilential water gushed out of the bottome of the Lake, which suddenly killed a world of fish, their colour and smell (being cast on the earth) confirming that to be the cause of their death. Joannes Boccaccius in his little tract of Lakes, saies he saw it with his own eyes in the time of King Robert, about the yeeer 1380.
The Sybil Cumana was she which gave AEneas free passage into hell, as Virgil [...]aith; she was called Cumana of the City of Cuma, (here under treated of) and was one of the twelve Sybils, all which prophesyed of Christ though some more obscurely, yet two so fully that with submission I shall here insert somewhat of their prophecies touching the Saviour of Mankind.
SIBILLA CUMANA.
And the SIBILLA ERITHRAEA, to this effect.
At one side of the Lake Avernus is the Temple of Apollo, at the other this Sibilla Cumana her Grott, which is very spatious, having at the end a magnificent ascent where the oracle stood, with the way that led to Cuma: Her bath yet stands, and her Chambers painted in Mosaick wo [...]k; yet all under ground as most of the aforesaid Antiquities (except the Temples) are.
CUMA.
Leaving the Lake Avernus, you find on the way among the ruines of the City Cuma, (now altogether undone & desert) great foundations and ruines of Towers, Temples and Edifices of importance. On the top of the mountain are yet the footsteps of a Temple of Apollo, which in its time was infinitely celebrated, and is taken notice of by Virgil and Servius his Commentator. There is also an Arch built with brick, now called Arco Felice, the happy Arch, of a stupendious high Vault, through which the antients wrought an even way between two heads of Mountains: Cuma was built by the Calcidensi a Graecian people of Negroponte, who being arived in those Seas with their ships, to seek out a Country for their habitation, first landed in those near Islands, called Pitherusa, which lye over against Campania, and were so denominated from the multitude of Apes thereon found: and afterw [...]rds taking cour [...]ge they passed over into the Terra [...]irma, where they built this City Cuma, calling her by this [Page 300] name, either from one of their Captains so called, or from the Procurator in those maritimate Coasts, or from its good augury they there met with, to wit a woman great with child the which confirmed them in their determination to dwell there, as Strabo Dionysius and Livy relate: for to all these sences Cuma in Greek, (considering its significations) may be well applyed.
These people lived a long time governing their Republique with prudence, and increased so much, that Pozzuolo, Paleopoli, and Naples became part of their Colony: we read that the Cumani were under Tyrants, before the Romans expelled their Kings, but this happened not through their being subjugated by any, but because they chose to themselves a head and chief to obey, who after the Greek manner, was called Tyranno, that is, Lord, one of which was Aristodemo Malaco, elected for his meer valour, as Livy and Dionysius Halicarnasseus write: for that with a small party, he overcame a great nnmber of Tuscans, Ombrians and Ausonians, enemies of the Cumani, and slew with his own hand Arunte, the Son of Porsenna, their Captain. To which Aristodemns say the same Authors, Tarquinius Superbus (expelled Rome) fled for safety, and by him being well accepted, he ended his daies in Cuma. Afterwards the Cumani were overcome and for some time evilly intreated by the Campani, saies Strabo; but in subsequent times there being no Forts strong enough to resist the Romans, all those people were at one instant of time reduced under the said Romans, who set a Praefect over the City Cuma, for that that people would too obstinately have fought for defence of their Liberty. Afterwards that City run retrograde, loosing its splendour and inhabitants: for that the Romans by their greatnesse measuring their pride, possessed themselves of all that Campania or Country, erecting therein their luxurious and most sumptuous Palaces, which not only obscured Cuma but all the adjacent Cities: who being bereaved of their Land, first fayled of Inhabitants, and at last became desolate, yet Cuma was the last of those Cities that underwent this desolation; by reason that being built upon a mountain, when the Roman Empire began to feel its tottering condition, by the frequent in roads of the barbarous Nations into Italy, Cuma for the commodity of its site, was reduced into a Fortresse: which caused Agathia Mireneus in his first book of the Gothick warr, to say, [...]hat Cuma in his time was very strong, almost impregnable through its many grosse Towers, walls and other fortifications; and that for this reason Totila and Teja Kings of the Goths, thither conveighed their Treasure, as to a safe and secure place, together with their most estimable and dearest things: however Narsetes the Legate of Justinian the Emperor, after a long siedge made himself Lord of it
But at present nought hereof remains, save only immense ruines, foundations and profound Ditches cut into the hard stony rock with Chisels. In the departure from Cuma, you often fall upon parcels of the Via Domitiana, (now interrupted in many places) and great Ruines of a stone Bridge, raised over the Volturnus. Domitian cau sed this way to be made, beginning from the Via Appia, between Minturue and Sinvessa, and so leading to Cuma: Statius Papinius in his Hendecasillibi, or verses of eleven sillables, makes mention of [Page 297] Cuma, the above named bridge, and a triumphal Arch of Marble placed on the same way: whereof no fragments are now to be found.
LINTERNO. And why now called the Tower of the Countrey.
ON the left hand of the Via Domitiana lye vast ruines of the old City Linternum, of old a Colony of the Romans, so in the midst of that twas called the Tower of the Countrey Campania, which name it seems to have acquired from the places old successe, and was ennobled by the remainder of dayes which Scipio Affricanus the Greater spent there, after his voluntary banishment from his Countrey Rome: Who being ill treated by his Citizens, whom with their goods and estates he had defended from their Enemies, and made them Lords of Spain and Affrick, in disdain of so great ingratitude, retired himself to his own Palace in this place, that he might deprive his Countrey of himself living, & of his assistance, by this means dealing with her as most ingratefull: after his death commanding his body to be there entered, expresly forbidding his bones to be transported to Rome, as Livy, Strabo, Valerius Maximus, Seneca and many others relate. Pliny saith further in the last Chapter of the sixteenth book of his natural History, that even to his t [...]me they found in Linternum of the Olive trees planted by Scipio Affricanus, and a [...]irtle of a notable largenesse under which was a Cave inhabited by a Dragon the guardian of Scip [...]oes Soul; from which fable arose this other, which the Inhabitants tell of the Monte Massico, so renowned for the wines it produced, to wit tha [...] in a certain [...]ave on the said mountain lay a Dragon, who slew and devoured all such as approached to him, and that twas therefore called Monte Dragone and the Castle standing thereon is called La Rocca di Monte Dragone. Iu these quarters is a spring or fountain of which was wont to be sharp or sower water and as twas said would intoxicate: [...]ut now it hath the tast of sweet and pure water, and hath not the said effect of inebriating, but when drunk cures the head-ache.
SINOPE or SINVESSA.
UNder the Castle Dragone stood the antient City Sinope, first a Colony of the Greeks, and afterwards made a Colony by the Romans, calling it Sinvessa, when they also made Min [...]nrnum [Page 302] a near City another Colony, by occasion of the warr they had against the Samniti, in the four hundred fifty seventh yeer after Romes foundation, Appius Claudius, and L. Volturnius being Consuls, the latter the second time, as Livius relates, or the following yeer when Pirrhus began to reign, as Velleius Paterculus will have it.
Vast ruines of this City lye disperst on every side there, but chiefly towards the Sea, where the footsteps of a large port also appear. Twas a renowned City, having a healthfull air, and some salutiferous hot fountains, for which the Poet Silius st [...]les Sinvessa luke warme: these fountains are now denominated Bagni Gaurani, but Tacitus calls them Sinvessan waters, saying in the 12th book of his Annals, that Claudius the Emperor being restored to his sences, caused himself to be conveighed to Sinvessa for recovering his health, hoping and depending much on the goodnesse of the aire and the benefit of the Sinvessian waters, when his wife Agrippina had prepared for him those poisoned mushrooms which himself and his Son Brittanicus eat. This Agrippina was Daughter of the noble Germanicus, Sister to Caligula, and by him abused, she was first married to Domitius by whom she had Nero, afterwards to Claudius whom with his Son as aforesaid she poisoned, that her Son Nero might be Emperor. But her falshood, abomination & cruelty was not unpuni'sht by that Son, who though he had joined her in equal authority with himself, and carnally known her as some suppose, yet caused her to be most cruelly slain, after sundry attempts to do it privately and with least trouble and pain to her. Tacitus saies further in the first book (speaking of the histories of his time) That Onofrius Tigillinus one of the principal actors of Nero the Emperours misdeeds, had the wezel pipe of his throat cut near the waters of Sinvessa, whilst disporting himself among his Concubines he least thought of any such thing.
MINT URNE
The River Garigliano being passed, wherein the Scille or Seashrimp or prauns are taken, a sweet little fish held very delitious by the Romans, you may see the reliques of Minturnae, of old a most flourishing Colony of the Romans: and among them the footsteps of vast publique and Private Fabricks, some despoiled of the marble which embel [...]ished them, and some entire. As a very sumptuous Aqueduct, a Theatre with its Scenes and all other necessary parts, a work after the antient way of building but solid; An Amphitheatre with its accomodation for sitting, one seat above another, but despoiled of its marble, wherwith for ought appears, the [...] [...]rajetto standing on the neighbouring hill hath been adorned and fortified, which Amphitheater is now used as an inclosed pasturage for goats and sheep. Therein lye great footsteps of Walls and Towers, great arches over gates, and vast foundations of edifices, from whence we [Page 303] easily collect, she hath a been potent and noble City.
This place hath acquired an illustrious fame also from that great victory, which the Christians there obtained against the Saracens and Infidels, under the Captains of the Christian Army, Pope John the 10 and Albericus Marquess of Tuscany, when all Italy was delivered from that cursed people, except Monte Gargano, whither such as could escape, fled and possessed it a long time after, robbing both by sea and land.
At the mouth of the river Garigliano, was the sacred wood, where the Minturnesi, honoured the Nymph or Goddesse Marica the wife of Faunus, to whom on the banks they built a proud Temple, whereof nought now remains, no more then of the honourable City Venista, or of Ausonia a most noble City, which was so named of Auson the Son of Ul [...]sses and Calypso, which City afterwards gave name to all Italy, over all which it also Lorded: which Cities stood in those parts along the aforesaid river.
LE PALVDI MINTVRNESI.
THe adjacent Fenns now Medows called Minturnesi, are famous for that they reduce to memory a notable example of the various changes of Fortune: which was that C. Marius who had been seaven times Consul, and had seaven times triumphed, had the good hap to abscond himself therein for saving his life; where notwithstanding he was found by a Frenchman an Enemy, but one that had not the boldnesse to offend him, being terrified and put to fear by the Majestick aspect, and noble presence of that great man. Whence Marius (having reached a ship) passed into Affrick, whereof Juvenal speaks concisely in these words.
FORMIA.
Thence the Via Appia leads by Hercoleana to Formia, which way is very pleasant, but the Castle Mola now stands near if not in the place where Formia of old stood; Mola takes its name from the many Mills grinding in that quarter, by reason of the quantity of water. The Countrey is such, that a more delicious cannot be fancied, wherfore Martial saies.
And a little after follows.
Volaterrann [...]s and others well skilled believe, that here was the Villa Formiana, appertaining to Cicero, famous for his slaughter there, which opinion cannot well be contradicted, because the Epitaphs, inscriptions, & reliques of antiquity, on the Appia and near Towns, demonstrate that the City Formia was there, but chiefly these words to be read on the basis of a Statue (in that place) following. ‘Imp. Caesari Divi Hadriani Filio Divi Trajani. Parthici. Nep. Divi. Nervae. Pronepoti▪ Tito AElio. Hadriano Antonino. Aug. Pio. Pont. Max. Tr. Pont. XI. Cos. III. II. P. P. Formiani. Publicè.’
Strabo, Pliny, Solinus and other historians concurring say, that the Lacedaemonians built Formia in the antient Territories of the Lestrigoni and therefore Silius Italicus calls it the house of Antifata, because there Antifata the Son of Janus and Nephew of Neptune ruled over the Lestrigoni, and first called it Hormia which in their Language signified a comodious port, which that was. The Lacedaemonians were afterwards subjugated by the Campani, and they by the Romans, who reduced that with Capua into the form of a Prefecture, yet leaving Formia in Liberty, or free, and making her participate of the Roman honours for some time as Livins in his 33 book: at last in the civil warrs, Formia was made a Roman Colony, and reduced with many others in Italy, into Castles and Forts as Frontinus saies, by the Triumvirate, Caesar, Antonius, and Lepidus. Twas most flourishing in the time of the Emperors through the goodnesse of the air it in joyed, as Horace, Martial and other authors worthy credit relate, which may also be conjectured from the more noble structures now extant. In the end the Saracens dest [...]oyed it, with many other Cities in Campania or the Terra di Lavoro, when Pope Gregory the 4th. translated the Fpiscopacy to Gaiela. And thus then pursueth the Via Appia leading to Fondi.
VELLETRI.
VElletri was an antient and potent Castle of the Volsci, whereof the Roman histories frequently speak: Livius and Dionysius Hallicarnasseus say, that Velletri was besieged and enforced to yeild to Ancus Martius King of the Romans: and Livy adds further, that twas severely chastised by the Romans for its frequent rebellions, wherefore the walls were levelled, and the richer sort of Velletri sent to dwell beyond the Tyber, with penalty of imprisonement to whosoever should set foot on this side Tiber within a mile of Velletri. This Castle was also made a Colony of the Romans, and many times replenisht with new Inhabitants sent thither from Rome, because the old (in the many warrs made on those confines) became impotent and much decreased as Livy affirms. Frontinus in his Fragmenta saies, that he finds many people by precept of the Sempronian Law, to have been at sundry times sent from Rome to Velletri, and that afterwards Claudius Caesar, made it a Military Colony, dividing his own Territory among the Souldiers. Twas renowned, because the Ancestors of Caesar Augustus were of old Inhabitants in it, that is the Octavian Family, and the same Augustus had a certain noble Seat of his own there, from whence saies Suetonius, he caused many things necessary for sustenance and livelyhood to be conveighed.
Yet now remain very few marks of the old Fabricks, notwithstanding that tis yet a great and well inhabited Castle. It hath a lovely Territory replenisht with gardens and Palaces through its vicinity with Rome, Pliny in his 14th. book reckons the wine of Velletri, among the most generous, but it is not now in that credit, being so crude at present, that they are fain to boyle it in a caldron, to make it drinkable: wherefore Pliny well observes, that even the Earth hath its age and decays as have all other things.
In the voyage present themselves to view, Lanuvium or Lanuvio, a place famous for the Temple there dedicated to Juno Sospita. The Riccia or Agritia built by the Sicilians, afterwards made the Seate of Alba Longa. The mountain so much spoken of for the Temple consecrated to Jupiter, and the Latines Feast daies there celebrated. Some Lakes which lye under it. The Hill Albano so fatal to the Vejenti. The Nemorese famous for the barbarous sacrifices there performed to Diana Taurica, and Hippolitus Urbius. In sum all that tract of Land is worthy contemplation for the many records taken of it among writers. The frequent ruines of great Fabricks lying up and down the Countrey Tusculanum, where Cicero, Varro, and divers other noble Romans had their Palaces, deserve due consideration: as do the Countrey seats of the tenn Cardinals, and above all the fair Villa of Frescati, a place deputed to the Popes recreation: The Territory of Frescati, was the antient delight of the Romans, and continues [Page 306] now of such ravishing delights, as tis fitter for the Gods to in habit then men▪ such is the quantity of trees the quality of verts alwaies flourishing, the murmuring of Fountains and the like.
PELESTINA.
VPon a mountain on the right hand stands Pelestrina the Antient Seat of the Aborigini, a people who first possessed the Country about Rome, living abroad without houses: of the original of this City is no certain knowledge to be had, being lost through its antiquity, but thereof divers are the opinions. Virgil in his seaventh (by authority of the Chronicles of the Prenestini) saies, that Caeculus the Son of Vulcan founded it: whose mother sitting by the fire side a spark happened to light into her lap, by which she said she was concerved with Childe: when her full time was come she was delivered of a Son, whom because he had very small eyes, she called Caecu [...]. Of him the noble Family of Cecilians in Rome would need have their beginning deriving, their Original from him as their first stock.
Soli [...]s by authority of Ze [...]odotus saies that twas built by Praenestus the Son of Latin [...]s and Nephew of Ulisses: Plutark in his parallels by authority of Aristotle in the third of Italian things saies, that Telogonus the Son of Ulisses by Circe the witch, after he had built Tusculum, by advisement of the Oracle called it Preneste from the name of the Crowns wherewith he first saw the Inhabitants of the Country to daunce: but be it as some say from the said Praenestus or as others will from the scituation of the place, a little pendent, or as others from the scites being so high, tis indifferent, since the name Preneste will easily accommodate it self to all or either of these respects.
Yet the more rational opinion for the name, seems to be derived from the Crowns aforementioned, not only for the aforesaid cause but also for that in that City there stood a most noble Temple of Fortune, famous for those diviners by Lots, who exercised themselves in that superstition: and was therefore visited with many Crowns offered to the said Goddesse by vow: of which Temple some fragments yet remain, and a few years since, were there found divers figures of Fortune, in brasse, brick, marble and other materials, as also several Crowns, and divers medals, upon which were figured the various lots, fortunes, and chances, with their marks, signes, and letters.
In it also hung divers Tablets and other things offered by vow to Fortune, Jove, Hope, and to the Capudini, which things would take up too much room to recite, yet one Epigram will not be too impertinent, since so eminently inscribed on a marble basis, dedicate in that Temple by T. Caesius Taurinus, with the figure of T. Cesius the [Page 307] first his Father, the most famous Merchant of Corn, who used every yeer to present a hundred Crowns by vow. On the said Basis are carved two measures, called Modii, half bushels filled with ears of corn, on the sides are some little pillers crowned with ears of corn, and in the middle is the ensuing Epigram.
Cicero declares in his second Book de Divinatione, by extraction out of the Books of the said people Prenestini, how the observation of Chances Lots or Fortunes came to have its beginning in that City: saying, that a certain nobleman of Pelestrina named Suffucius by frequent advices and menaces which he had in his dreams, was commanded to break out of a certain place a great flint stone, wherat all the other Citizens his Compatriots fell a laughing, but when the stone was broke, the Lots or Chaunces suddenly leaped forth engraven in antient Letters, which occasioned their honouring of Fortune in that place: and thence became the place by little and little enclosed and shut up through respect of the Image of Jupiter there devoutly adored by the Matrons, in form of a boy childe sitting with Juno in the lap of Fortune, in a posture as seeking out the breast and teat: and that at the same time, after the Temple of Fortune was built, there dropped honey from an olive tree, wherewith by commandement of the Southsayers was made a chest, and therein those Lotts were reposed, the which were mingled and drawn out by a litle boyes hand when ever they would see the issue of any thing: as Fortune had at large directed her intention to be, that after this manner they should draw out the Lots.
This observation was most antient, and such as affirm L. Sylla to be the builder of this Temple deceive themselves. Which errour [Page 308] they took up from their reading the thirty sixth book of Pliny, who doth not say L. Sylla built that Temple but that he began to make its pavement with small stones of various colours in small figures, of w ch. pavement thus wrought, some yeers since certain parts were found under ground, and therein figured many forrein creatures with their names in greek.
It may then be rationally believed that L. Sylla being victorious in the civil warrs, after he had enforced C. Marius the younger to dye, and his other enemies who had saved themselves in Preneste, after a long siege took the City, killing some part and selling others of the Citizens: but repenting afterwards his impietie expressed against the sacred places, for expiation of that crime, he resolved to restore and embellish anew the Temple profaned and almost wholly destroyed by him. It seems a notable advise and observation to me, that the strength of the scite of this City hath occasioned its own destruction, which hath had a much contrary event in all other strong holds. The cause whereof is attributed to the assured confidence of the strength of the place, for which cause in the civil warrs the weaker part ordinarily fled thither for safety: but their enemies being stronger and more potent immediately layed siege to it, so that at the end if they surrendred not themselves the besiegers ruined the poor City: whence we read that in the following times of civil discord the Pelestrini that they might not undergoe so great misery as formerly they had done, abandoned their City and retired to their dwellings.
To this day appear there many subterranean waies from the Castle to the foot of the adjacent mountains, (besides the Caves used as conservatories for water) which were made for introducing of assistance, or to fly the City occultly: into one of which C. Marius the younger having withdrawn himself, and perceiving himself to be beseiged on all sides, so that he could not fly, that he might not living fall into the hands of his enemies, agreed with Telesinus to run one against the other with their naked swords so to kill themselves: by which means Telesinus was slain, but Mvrius remained alive thorugh desperatly wounded, and soon after caused one of his Se [...]vants to make an end of his then begun death, by killing him. From which successes, the Inhabitants of the place believe the stones of those subterranean waies to be still reddish with the bloud spilt there: which yet is not so, for over all those hills are stones red by nature, and not through any accident of blood spilt thereon.
Preneste was first a free City and confederate with the Romans, having its own Praetor as Livy and Festus declare calling her Municipal. Appianus saies that the Prenestini at the time of the Italian war were made Citizens of Rome with the [...]iburtini; but some time after L. Sylla, victorious (as Cicero, speaks, in Catalines conspiracy) having emptied this City by slaughters and banishments, and deprived her of inhabitants by the many expulsions, slaughters and banishments he made of them, there remained so few inhabitants that he sent of the Romans to dwell there, dividing its Territory among the new comers, and thus made it a Roman Colony. Aulus Gellius saies in the third Chapter of his 16. book that afterwards the Prenestini obtained [Page 309] of Tiberius Augustus a restoration to their first state, that is into the condition of free Citizens, having the form of a Colony wholly amoved from their City.
TIVOLI.
WHen arrived at Tivoli, first go see those gardens which Hippolitus Estense Cardinal of Ferrara, planted with so much cost many yeers since upon the back of the mountain, together with a proud Pallace, which also is beautifyed with old statues, Pictures and royal houshold stuffe, even to the emulation of the greatness and magnificence of the Antients.
But who is able with sufficiency ever to display in words the exquisite delights, costs & pleasure, wherewith this place and palace is plentifully furnished? and who shall relate the Labyrinths, the Groves, the half circles, the triumphant Arches, the Arches laden with old statues, the Caverns of the Nymphs, and the innumerable fountains which every where sprout forth waters, the close walkes, and beautifull arbours covered with trees, herbs, and tender branches and other like verts.
Ubertus Folieta of Genoua heretofore described it most gratiously, But Corona Pighio cannot satiate himself with praising of it, who published descriptions of that Palace and the gardens in Rome stamped from brasse cuts, the view whereof in my opinion may draw as many persons to behold it, as Rome doth with all its wonders. Although we have scarce courage enough, yet conformable to that published Table will we cursorily describe it, for satisfaction of such as have not had the good fortune to see them, or at least their draught in picture. First then the Hill is levelled at top, and upon the plain thereon is erected the Palace, built of square stones with the grandure and magnificence of a Royal palace, and with exquisite art and proportion.
On the right hand whereof lie enclosed gardens, called Secreti, and therein sixteen great marble Goblets emit clear waters, in the midst whereof sits a Janus Quadrifrons, with four faces, higher raised then those goblets, which makes four other fountains adorned like looking glasses: and on the right hand a Tennis Court, and other sumptuous places for exercise. The forefront hath between the windows many old statues of Marble, as hath the first Porticue, from which lead two fair stone staire-cases up into the palaces.
Before this Porticue in the midst of a Piazza stands a Leda, which Leda was wife of Tyndarus King of Laconia with whom as Poets feign Jupiter accompanying, she brought forth two eggs, of the one whereof came Pollux and Helena, (ravished by Paris) of the other Castor and Clytemnestra. Thence the hill (a pleasant descent) is reduced into four long Piazzaes and so levelled contains before the front [Page 310] of the palace four great and spatious gardens, into each of which at each end and in the middle, three pair of stone stairs (artificially composed) conduct by a facile descent, whose sides are bathed by divers purling streams, running towards their Lakes. Every garden is divided in its orders, hath places to sit in, and fair collumnes erected in divers parts, so that such as go walking from one part to another, through places and passages covered over with leaves and vines, and other verts alwaies flourishing, enjoy a most beautifull prospect and no less sweet odours from the circumjacent flowers which make a pompous shew. In the appartments growes fresh grasse, which with the flowers by their variety wonderfully entertain the eye and fancy of whoever regard them, nor can any satiate himself in the view of those infinite and wonderfull statues, pillars, Fountains and other objects there presenting themselves.
The passage from the Piazza before the Palace on the right hand leads through divers walks, trees and small groves, wherein are placed several Fountains, as that of Tothyde, that of AEsculapius, that of Nigga, that of Aretusa, and Pandora, and that of Pomona and Flora. In the descent into the first garden, shews it self the Colossus of Pegasus in Pamosso, a horse feigned to have wings, under whose shadow a fair Fountain casteth up her waters very high and in the wood & rocks is a Cavern, and near them a statue of Venus & Bacchus: near w ch. is a Lake, into which some rivolets run among rocks with a murmuring noise between two Colossus, one of the Sibilla Tiburtina, the other of Melicerta the son of Athamas and Ino, whom the Gentiles did honour for one of the Gods of the Sea. Below which lye the statues of the Rivers Aniene, and Herculano, conjoined to certain vessels out of which some waters run into the Lake, as also out of the Urns, round which stand ten Nymphs. In the midst are two Grotts, the one of the Sibilla Tiburtina, the other of Diana the Goddesse of the woods, both which are adorned with fountains, statues, Curral, mother of Pearl, and a pavement exactly wrought with mosaick work. On the other side of the garden you have a fair prospect of Rome in a semicircle, round which appear her most memorable Fabricks; and in the midst sits Rome in the habit of a warlike Goddesse, between her seaven hills: this statue is of marble, bigger then a man, in shape of a Virgin in a short girt coat, with naked hands, military buskins, and a sword hanging in a belt from the right shoulder. Her head is covered with a murrion, in her right hand she holds a spear, in the left a shield: she sits as aforesaid in the midst of her wonders in the City and on every side appear her sacred Fabricks, as the Pantheon, the Capitolian Temples, the Circs, the Theatres, the Amphitheatres, the Collumnes, the Obelisks, the Mauseoli, the Arches Triumphant, the Pyramides, the Acqueducts, the Baths, the River Tyber, with the wolf and Twin Brothers pouring water into the City out of an urn; in the midst of which running waters, riseth an Island cut in the shape of a ship which bears on the main yard an Obelisk, and the ship seems to be laden with these four Temples, the Temple of AEsculapius in the poope, and those of Jupiter, Berecinta and Faustus, it beares in the prow.
[Page 311]Thence descending to the lower garden, you find on the left hand in a semy circle called the great, a green grove, placed between certain Rocks amid which run fountains this may be called the residence for birds: for on the arms of the trees you see many images of little birds singing more sweetly then the natural, who clap their wings as if alive, receiving their motion from the aire and the waters with miraculous artifice, by means of certain little reeds hid in the armes of the trees: sometimes to please the spectators, they will make a screech owle to appear, and then on a suddain as if the birds were sensible of fear, they are all silent, but that again withdrawn, in an instant they all begin their notes and sing most melodiously.
In the middle of this garden is a round standing water Lake, and in it a capacious vessel and a fountain named from the Dragons, which vomit out of their throats great store of waters, having trumpets in their hands which also emit plentifull waters, with a horrid noise imitating the sound of the trumpet. On the right hand lies the Grotto of Nature adorned with many statues, and in it an Organ with fair pipes, the which perform an harmonious consort of various and artificial musick, by the motion of the waters.
The next garden is not only beautifyed by the fair fountains, but by the quantity of Swans, and fish preserved in their several stations separated with rare artifice. In the three greater fountains are certain Beacons, called Sudanti, and other boundaries round them, which cast water very high in such quantities, that in their fall they seem natural showers, refreshing the air, and cooling the earth making noise of waters in their fall, as if the winds were high, sprinkling and washing at a good distance. In the midst of these conserves you see the effigies of the great Father Oceanus placed in a semicircle like a Theatre, and in the middle thereof a marble chariot like that of the Venus Marina, drawn by foure Sea horses, on which sits a great Neptune seeming to threaten with his Trident.
Lastly descending into the last garden near the rock, you find in one part a Fountain of Triton, and on the other a Fountain of Venus Clonina, and in the rest of the level besides the Pescheries, four Labyrinths difficult enough for any one to get out of thats once in, placed one by another in foure compartments amidst forreign plants. The entrance and outlet of these gardens, are embellisht with great Fabricks built of Tiburtine stone, with great expence. Thus much concerning the Villa of Tivoli, of Cardinal Hippolito E stense.
The noble sepulchre of Cardinal Hippolito da Este in the Church will recompence your pains in the sight of it, being composed with marble of various colours, on it stands a great white marble statue of the said Cardinal of great cost and fair appearance. The Castle also affords many worthy objects, but what is more considerable, is the precipitous descent of the River; which falls with such noise and fury from high cliffs of mountains, that for the most part its vapours render the air foggie, and many times at a distance there seem to hang celestial rainbowes, cloudes being at most times over it. This River infamed by the writings of the antient, takes its rise at the mountain of the Trebani, and runs into three noble Lakes. [Page 312] which give name to the adjacent castle, called Sublaco: which Lakes Tacitus seems to call Simbrivini, saying in the 14th. Book of his Annals, that near them stood the Villa Sublacense of Nero in the confines of Tivoli, from which Lakes the Aniene running afterward through woods and mountains, falls at last in the plain near Tivoli, from high stones, with fury and noise, then it goes some space under ground, and at the foot of the mountain returns all again above ground, it runs through the three sulphurious veins, called Albule, from their white colour. Tis said, and Strabo confirms the water there to be medicinal in drinking or Bathing, and Pliny writes that they heal the wounded. Nor does the Albule only but also the Albunea above Tivoli consolidate wounds. Regarding the Campania of Tivoli, about the Aniene you will find huge stones encreased by little and little in long time by vertue of the waters running by, and in the bottome of Lakes there you'l find of hard stones generated by the same means.
In this confine are many footsteps of old edifices worthy contemplation: Tivoli having been a most noble City, and well Inhabited through the beauty of its scite, the goodnesse of its soyle, and the salubrity of the aire: which made it be surrounded with the fair Villa's, and Lordly houses of the rich persons of that Country, although now like Rome, and all Italy also it lies waste and ruinated by the various warrs and successes which have destroyed it. Tis certain that Greeks were the builders of this City, but who they were is not certain, the writers of the Italian antiquities not agreeing herein: yet the greater part say that Catillo was its founder, who some say was of Arcadia, and Captain of Evanders Navy. Others affirm Argiv [...]s the son of Amfiardo the Southsayer, after the prodigious death of his Father near Thebes, came by command of the oracle with his family and Gods (long before the Trojane warr) into Italy: and by the assistance of the Enotri, Aborigeni, drove the Sic [...]li out of that place, naming the Castle taken from them Tib [...]re, from his eldest sons name. Nor does Pliny much disagree from this, though he does not wholly agree with it: for in the 16th of his natural History writing of the ages of Trees he saies, that in his time there stood 3 Holme Trees by Tivoli, near to which Tiburtio the builder of that Castle, had received augure to build it. But saies he was the Nephew not the Son of Amfiardo and that he came with his two Brothers Lora and Catillo one age before the Trojane warr, and that he there caused the Castle to be built, calling it after his own name because he was the elder, in which opinion Virgil, in his AEneides seems to concur: but Horati [...]s on the other part calls Tivoli the walls of Catillus pursuing the others opinion: from which expressions we conjecture that the City Tivoli, was before Rome. Those of Tivoli held Hercules in reverence above the other idols, as Protector of the Graecian people, at whose festivity infinite people resorted thither.
In it was also a Temple for the Sorti, lotts or chances no lesse famous for their oracles then that in Bura, or in Achaia a countrey of Morea, mentioned by Pausanias: whence the Poet Statius saies, that such was the beauty of the place that even the Sorti Prenestini would have chosen it for giving their answers, had not Hercules first possessed the place.
[Page 313] Th [...]se are his words.
He calls the Sorti Sisters; for that good and bad Fortune were reverenced as two Sisters. Tis thought that Temple under the mountain in the way of Tivoli, was that famous Temple of Hercules: but this people had another Temple dedicate to the same God, yet called Hercules Saxanus, as appears by the subsequent inscription found in a Piazza attaqued to a particular house.
But we cannot conclude with certainty where this other Temple stood: yet many agree that twas called Hercules Saxanus, in respect twas built with stone differing from the other greater Temple: just as the Milanesi, called one Hercules in Pietra, from the scituation of that Church in a stony place near them. Upon the stone ariseth a certain antient round Fabrick without covering, built wi [...]h marble in rare architecture of much esteem, which possibly might be the Temple of Hercules Saxanus: tis near the Cataracts which augments this suspicion; for that the Antients usually placed their Temples consecrate to Hercules near waters, long ports, and violent falls of waters, to the end that Hercules by them esteemed the Protector of the firm Land, might cause the water to continue in its limits, and not infest the country with inundations: the which Statius clearly shewsin the 11th. Book of woods, speaking of the Villa [...] of his Pollius, which stood on the sea shore near a port with a Temple of Hercules, and another of Neptune neare it: whose verses now take.
He feigns also in his third book, that Hercules, having layed aside his arms, laboured much in preparing the foundations of his Temple in that place, and with great strength prepa [...]ed the instruments for digging the earth; for thus the Pagans or Gentiles beleived, viz, that Hercules, during his life went through the world, operating for the publick good of Mankind, what ever was difficult or laborious to be effected; as not only in the taming and killing of Monsters, [...]emoving [Page 314] Tyrants, reducing unjust Lords to the terms and conditions of Justice, and chastising the bad and evil ones: But also in building of Castles and Cities in desert places, ports and securities for shipping on dangerous shores, reducing bad and irksome waies into good, changing the chanels of damnifying Rivers, breaking the course of the waters where requisite, for preservatiō of the firm Land: setling peace between disagreeing nations with just Laws, opening the method & way of dealing and negotiating between people far eloigned from one another: and insum reducing into a state of civility such as were wilde and fierce: wherefore they built him Temples, created him a God, and devoutly honoured him, giving him several surnames according to the diversity of the places where they adored him, or the quality of the benefits which the people held they received from him, or according to some great work which they supposed he had done. Whence the western parts of the world had Hercules Gaditani, when on the north side of the straight called of old Fretum Herculeum, was Mount Calpe, on the South Mount Abila, on which Hercules placed his so memorable pillars, with the inscription Nil ultra: because that was then conceived to be the most western bound of the world. But Charles the 5th: after the discovery of America coming that way, caused Plus ultra to be engraven either on the same Pillars or on new, erected in their places. The Batani, called him Monaco. The Genovesi, Banlio. Those of the Terra di Lavoro, Surrentino. and they of Tivoli, called him Tivolesse and Saxanus. The Tivolesi, were such Friends to Hercules, that they called their City Herculea, as if the whole were especially consecrated to him, and in the palace of Tivoli they honored Hercules just as Jupiter was honored in the Campi doglio at Rome, and the heads or chief of the publick Council and of the Priests, were called in Tivoli, Hercoleani, being of great dignity: a thing clearly demonstrable by certain inscrip tions and Epitaphs extant in antient marbles, whereof ensue some for the service and advantage of the studious in antiquity.
In the Church of S. VICENZO in TIVOLI.
- Herculi
- Tiburt. Vict.
- Et. Cereris. dis.
- Praet. Tiburt.
- L. Minicius
- Natalis
- Cos Augur.
- Leg. aug. Pr. Pr.
- Provinciae.
- Moesiae Infer.
- Votis Susc.
In the ascent of the mountain in a Fragment on the way.
- G. Sestilius
- V. V. Tiburtium
- Lib. Ephebus
- Herculanius
- Augustalis
In the great Church.
- C. Albius. Livillae. L.
- Thymelus, Herc.
- Augustalis.
The tenth Sybil named by the Latines Tibuclina and Albunea by the Graecians Leucothea, was held in great honour in Tivoli in old time: for they adored her as a Goddess consecrating to her a wood a Temple and a Fountain called after her own name Albunea, from the whitenesse of its waters, above Tivoli, in that mountain where Fame saies she was born and gave answers to demandants: of whom Virgil speaks and Servius his Commentator, as also Horace, with his Interpreters. Tis reported that the Romans going about to deifie Augustus Caesar, demanded advise of this Sybil, who after three daies fast, standing before the Altar, where the Emperor himself was then present, after many hidden words miraculo [...]sly spoken concerning Christ, upon the suddain Heaven opened, and Caesar saw a beautifull Virgin standing before the Altar, who held as lovely an infant in her arms, at which apparition Caesar affrighted fell on his face: and a voice as from Heaven was heard saying this is the Altar of the Son of God. In which place was after built a Temple dedicated to the Virgin Mary called Ara Caeli the Altar of heaven. This Policronion affirms, and for the truth thereof cites S. Augustine. lib 18. cap. 24. She Prophesied of the coming of Christ, after the recital of the sea. ven wonders of the world to this purpose.
These things being seen, march towards Rome, and leaving the Road a little on the left hand, bestow a view on the Elia Tiburtina, [Page 316] which was the Villa of Hadrianus the Emperor, seated on a little hill, which now at present shews the countenance of a great ruinated City: the footsteps of so vast edifices stupifie the beholders, hardly dispensing with any beliefe that it could ever have been but one single Villa or princely seat. There may yet be found the ruines of many Palaces, Houses, Temples, Porticues, Acqueduct [...], Bathing houses, hot baths, Theaters, Amphitheaters, and in sum, of all other kind of Fabricks whatsoever imaginable for supream delights and pleasures. Among the rest you'l finde a very high wall drawn long-waies against the South two stades in length, which Wall hath alwaies on the one side the shade, and on the other the Sun; so that tis most comodious for walking by, or for any other exercise either in the shade or in the Sun, according to the necessity or humour of the person at all times. The vast ruines of this Villa, speak not alone the immense charge Hadrianus was at in building the same, but Spartianus also declares it in the life of Adrian, saying, that he in that his Villa caused draughts or as we may better say the similitudes of the most celebrious places of the world to be made, causing them afterwards to be called after the proper names of the imitated places: as among others, the Licenm, Aristotles School in Athens, the Academy of Cicero, the Prytaneum or counsel house of Athens, the Temple of Thessalia, a place wonderfully pleasant having trees and meadowes marvellously delectable, wherein birds of divers kinds sing continually with excellent melody: the Canopus of Egypt, a place wherein the God of that name was worshipped; and the like Fabricks made and nominated in imitation of the true. He further saies, that he there caused to be erected the place or representation of hell: all which things were undoubtedly accomodated and adorned with all conveniences and endowments, so that one might well comprehend at the first view, that, which in it self comprehended every one, that is Pictures, Statues, Figures, Inscriptions, pourtrayes of men, wherewith every of those places were illustrated, either with some notable writing, or heroick action. Which ornaments are all ruinated and dispersed, part by the rage of warr, and part by the incivility of the barbarous people, invading Italy, who there shewed not the least respect. Not long since in the fields of Tivoli, were found many figures, and statues, taken without doubt from this Villa, and applied to divers fabricks in the adjacent Countrey: many also have been found among the ruines of the said Villa under ground, and among others some carcases of men with their names in greek letters, as of Themistocles, Miltiades, Isocrates, Heraclitus, Carnea [...]les, Aristogiton, an orator of Athens, who for his lewd behaviour was c [...]lled Dog, with others, whose tronks or bodies possibly and credibly Pope Julius the third caused to be got together and conveighed to Rom [...], for beautifying his gardens: being advised of this their accidental coming to hand by Marcellus Cervinus, Cardinal of Santa Croce, a Lover of the studious: the which his Sainctety afterwards put in good order with great expence in the Via Flaminia, on the this side the Ponte Milvio.
Being freed from the ruines of the Villa Elia, you travel to Rome by the Via Tiburtina, along which appear some antiquities worthy observation; [Page 317] and among others on the Banks of the River Aniene, is a great [...], a grand Fabrick erected for the Scpulehre of the Family of the Pla [...]i Silv [...]ni both noble and antient, and framed of large square marble stones, near the bridge which conjoines on the one and other side of the River the antient Road; and is vulgarly called the Ponte Lucano, the reason of which name is not facilly known, but in some speeches tis called Ponte Pla [...]to▪ and some suppose that way was set out and the bridge likewise built by those noble and triumphant Plau [...]it, whose names we find engraven on the said Tomb: chiefly for that Suetonius testifies it was the custom by order of Augustus for the victorious Captains, to accomodate the Roads with the spoiles taken from the enemies, to w ch. he [...]onnexeth this other conjecture, that is, that in the third elogie of P. Plinius (of whose memorial or Epitaph, though a part be fallen in his Mauseolus or Tomb, yet enough remains to satisfie the studio [...]s in antiquity) we read among other Titles of honour, that this was not omitted, viz. That by the comand of T. Cl [...]udius Caesa [...], he was elected by the neighbourhood Pr [...]rator for accomodating the Road, or high wal [...]s.
A DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF SICILIA OR SICILY.
Sicilia is an Island of the Mediterranean Sea, seated betwixt Italy and Affrick, but between the South and West tis separated from Italy by a neck of the sea. Its form resembles a ▵ in greek, for that it hath three corners, every one whereof makes a Promontory, which are Peloro, Pachino, Lilibeo, now called Capo del Faro, Capo Passero, Capo Boco. Peloro looks towards Italy, Pachino towards Morea, and Li libeo toward the Promontory Mercurio of Africk, and to speak according to the aspect of the climes, Peloro lies Eastward, Pachino between South and East, Lilibeo between South and West. On the North this Island is washed by the Tirrhene Sea, on the East by the Adriatique and Jonian Sea, on the South by the African Sea, and on the West by that of Sardigna. It was called Trinacria, either from its three Promontories or from the King Trinaco, son of Neptune, and Triquetra, or from the three points of the Triangle; and Sirania from the Sirani, and after that Sicilia from the Siculi, (descended from the Liguri) who beat out the Sicani. It is in circuit, as by the moderns is judged (setting aside the diversities of the antients) six hundred twenty three miles: from Peloro to Pachino one hundred and sixty miles, from thence to Lilibeo 183 miles, from Lilibeo to Peloro 211. Its length from East to west is 150 miles, but its bredth is not equal, though on the Eastern part tis 160 miles broad, diminishing afterwards in bredth by degrees, being most straite at Lilibeo. The head of all the Island is the Territory Ennese. It hath on the north side ten Islands which lie round it (the Antients numbred but 7) whose names are Liparce, Vulcania, or Giera, Vulcanello, Lisca-bianca, Basiluzo, Thermisia, Trongile, Didima, Fenicusa, and Ericusa. Sicilia is divided into three provinces, which they call Valli or Vales, that is into the Val di Demino [Page 319] or Demona; the Val de Noto, and the Val di Mazara, the Val di Demino commenceth from the Promontory Peloro, and is the shore on one side to the River Terria, and on the other to the River Himera which dischargeth it self into the Tirrhene Sea. The Val di No [...]o, begins at the River Teria, and with it extending it self inwards, and traversing Enna, it descends with the river Gela, and ends at the City of Alicata. But the Val di Mazara, comprehends all the remaining part of Sicily to Lilibeo. This Island was some time conjoined to Italy, whereof the modern authors as well as antient render a large testimony, though there are some who take it for a ridiculous opinion. It is esteemed for the salubrity of the Ayre, the abundance of terrene sustenance and plenty of all things necessarie for mans use very excellent, as placed under the fourth Climate much more benigne then all the others, whence tis that what ever this soyle of Sicily affords, either by its own nature or the Ingenuity of man is accounted next to those which are cryed up for the best. It produceth corn in such abundance that in many places it yields 100 for one. Wilde Oats grow there of themselves, as also the Vines, which gave occasion for the Fable of Ceres & Proserpina. Their wines are most delicate, as is the oyle of Olives whereof they make great quantities. Their Canes too are admirable, called Ebosia heretofore, now Cannamele, whereof they make Sugars. Their Bee hony is there so good that by the antients as a proverb twas used the Hyblean hony of Sicily, which affords great store of wax: the Bees using the very tronks of trees for their hives, there gathering excellent honey. Their fruits of all sorts, grow with much plenty and goodnesse; they gather all sorts of Plants and medicinal herbs, and their saffron is better then that of Italy, as are their roots of wilde palm trees, which are gustfull to eat. The mountains AEri are so plentifully furnished with sweet waters, fountains, fruitfull and pleasant trees, that they have many times preserved a great Army of the Carthaginians, when near famishing. Other mountains produce salt, as Enna, Nicosia, Camerata and Platanim, where they take out salt stones. There also are the Caves or Pits for salt made of the Foam of the Sea resting upon the co [...]sts, but neare I ilibeo, D [...]epano, Camarino, Macanio, and other places, they take up the sea water, put it into pits, and thereof make salt. They also draw salt out of other parts of Sicily from the Lakes, as near Pochino, (a wonderfull thing) what by the rain, and fresh waters falling from other fountains, the Lake may be increased, in a little time, is dryed away by the Sun. They also make here great plenty of that silk which they draw from their silk worms. Nor is Sicilia lesse enriched by her Metals and Mines, having Minerals of Gold, Silver, Iron, Allum: and on the banks of the River Acate grow pretious stones, as the Emerald and Agat stone, and the clear Bartina, which is whi [...]e in circuit, and black spots in the midst, and in forms of several Creatures, as birds, beasts, men or any other, which they say is an Antidote against the biting of the spider or Scorpion. So [...]nus saies too, that twill make the Rivers stop, and that Pirrhus had one stone of this sort in a ring, wherein was engraven Apollo with his Scepter, and the Chorus of the nine Muses with their Ensigne, at Graterio, they dig the Beril or Sea water stone in great plenty, and Porphiry [Page 320] stone, red and traversed with white and green stroaks. Here also they take up the jasper stone being red, and varied with several clear green and white spots, which ennobles the stone. And in the sea of Messina, and of Drepano, there growes Corrals a sort of sea Plant much commended and sought after. Sicilia is likewise Famed for the Chase of the Goat and wilde Bore: for the fowling at Partridge and God wit. And all other sorts of Birds, and fourfooted beasts both for delight and profit are there in great plenty, beside the Falcon and other Hawks, which there are taken. The Fishing also is greatly abounding, particularly for the Fish called Tun [...]y Fish, whereof they take not only at Pachino (as the Antients wrote) but also at Palermo and Drepano, and in all the River which is washed with the Tyrrhene Sea, (this fish bears a great price in May or June) as also of the sword fish particularly at Messina, which (tis written) they cannot take unlesse they speak Greek, and to say no more both the Seas and the Rivers abound with all sorts of excellent fish. They have also in divers places many baths of hot, cool, sulphurous and other sorts of water, usefull and advantagious in several Infirmities, but those are in the River Sen [...]ntina, near the Cities Sacra and Himera, are salt and un wholsome to drink. We will not speak of the Fountains of sweet water that are found over all Sicilia, and many Rivolets accommodated as well for the life of Man, as the enriching their Lands by the overflowing. And to speak in brief, this Island is not at all inferiour to any other Province, either for its fatnesse or abundance; but somewhat exceeds Italy in the excellency of their grain, saffron, honey, Beasts skins, and other sustenance for the life of Man; in so much that Cicero not improperly called it the Granary of the Romans, and Homer said that all things grew there of their own accord, and therefore calls it the Isle of the Sun. Sicilia is likewise admirable for the fame of those things which told, exceed our beleef as the Mount Etna, & Mongibello, who sending forth continual fires from its bowels hath not withstanding its head (on that part where the fire issues) deeply covered in snow to the midst of Summer. Not far from Agrigento, or Gergento is the Territory Matharuca, which with assidu al vomiting of divers veins of waters, sends forth a certain Ash coloured Earth, and at certain times casting out an incredible Mass of that Earth, the one and the other Fields may be heard to roar.
In Menenino is the Lake Nastia (called by Pliny [...]fintia) where in three eddies you behold boyling water, which alwaies gurgles with an egregious stink, and somtimes spues up flames of fire: hither antiently resorted all such, as through their superstition were to be sworn to any thing. It hath likewise in sundry other places divers other Fountains of admirable Qualities and nature, for an ample account whereof the reader is referred to Thomaso Fazellio, to the end we may abridge our relation here. Sicily was inhabited by the Cyclopes, which is verified (besides what Authors affirm) by the bodies of immense bignesse and heigth, which in our daies are seen in the Grots, or Caves. Those Cyclopes, being monsters of Men or Gyants, whom the Sicani succeeded, and them the Siculi or Sicilians. Then the Trojans, the Candiots, the Phenici, the Calcidonians, [Page 321] the Corinthians and other Greeks, the Zanclei, the Guidii, the Sarasini, the Normans, the Lombards, the Swedes, the Germans, the French the Arragonians, the Spaniards, the Catalonians, the Genouans, and at length many Pisans, Lucchesians, Bolognians, and Florentines: all which people at several times inhabited divers parts of this Island: untill Charls the fifth Emperor took Corona, and after a little time leaving it to the Turks, all those Greeks that dwelt there transported themselves into Sicilia. The People are of an acute and quick wit, noble in their inventions, and industrious by nature, and said to be of three tongues for their velocity in speech, wherein their expressions proceed with much grace to facetiousnesse and quicknesse: they are held loquacious beyond measure: whence the Antients borrowed the proverb Gerrae Siculae, the Sicilian bablings. Antient writers attribute the following things to the invention of the Sicilians, the art of Oratory, the Bucolick or pastoral verse, dyall making, the Catapul [...]e a warlike engine, the illustrating of Pictures, the Art of Barbing, the use of skins of wilde beasts and Ryme. They are by nature suspectfull, envious, evil spoken, facil to speak Villany, and prone to revenge, but industrious subtle flatterers of Princes, and studious of Tyranny (as saies Orosie,) which at this day does not so generally appear.
They are more covetous of their own commodities or conveniences then of the publiques, and reflecting on the abundancy of the Countrey, sloathfull and without industry. Antiently their tables were so splendidly furnished, that it became a Proverb among the Greeks, but now they follow the frugality of Italy. They are valiant in warrs, and of uncorruptible faith to their King; beyond the custōme of the Greeks, they are patient; but provoked they leap into extream fury. They speak the Italian Language, but roughly, and without the least sweetnesse, and in their habits and other customes live after the manner of the Italians.
MESSINA.
THat City of Sicilia that is most illustrious, is Messina, built with the ruines and reliques of the City Zancla: at a thousand paces distance from hence came Dicearchus the hearer of Aristotle, the most celebrious Peripatetick, Geometritian, and eloquent Oratour, who wrote many books, whereof Fazellius makes mention, and Ibicus the Historian and the Lyrick Poet, and in the memory of our Fathers times lived there Cola the Fish, born at Catana, who leaving human society, consumed the best part of his life among the fish in the sea of Messina, whence he acquired the nick name of fish. Hence came also Giovanni Gatto, of the preaching order, a Philosopher, Divine, and famous Mathematician, who read in Florence, Bologna, and Ferrara, and was afterwards elected Bishop [Page 322] of Catano; and lastly hence came Gio Andrea Mercurio, a most worthy Cardinal of the holy Church.
Here stood the City Taurominio, which gave birth (according to Pausanias) to Tisandro Son of Cleocrito, who four times overcame in the Olympick Games and as many times in the Pythick, and Timeus the historian son of Andromacus, who wrote of the transactions in Sicilia and Italy and of the Theban warrs.
CATANA.
IT hath also the City Catana, one part whereof is washed by the Sea and the other extends it self to the foot of the Mountains where antiently was the Sepulture or burying place for famous and illustrious persons, as of Stesicorus the Poet, Himerese, Xenofane the Philosopher, and of two young Brothers Anapia and Anfinomo: who (the fire of AEtna raging and burning all the Countrey round) took up upon their shoulders the one his Father the other his Mother but being disabled by the weight to proceed with speed, and the fire overtaking them and at their very feet, yet lost not their magnan imity and courage, but when almost in despair, the fire on a suddain divided it self before them, and so they miraculously escaped safe. In this City is a Colledge for all the sciences, but most particularly they here study the Civil and Canon Laws, and from her have issued many illustrious persons, as Santa Agatha, (which the Palermitans will call of their City) a Virgin Martyr, who under Quintiano in the yeer of our salvation 152 suffered Martyrdome for Christ, and Carondo the Philosopher and Legislator, and he that was reputed the great Magus, Diodorus or Liodorus: Hence came also Nicolo Todisco, called the Abbot, or Panormitano the great Cnnonist, and Cardinal, who wrote so many books of the Canon Laws, and was present so much to his glory at the Councel of Basilea in the yeer 1440. It gave birth likewise to Galeozzo, or Galeotto Bardasino, whose vast body and strength acquired him the title of a Gyant, of whose prowesse and noble Acts of Chevalry we have as large relations, as any our Romances attribute to their Heroes. The City Leontina or Leontio (antiently inhabited by the Lestrigones) was the birth place of Georgia the Philosopher and Orator, and Agathone the Tragick Poet: and since the faith of Christ planted there, Alfio, Filadolfio, Cirino, became Martyrs for it. From the City Megara, came Theo genes the Poet, and Epicarmo the Comick Poet, and Inventor of Comedies.
SYRACUSA.
Syracusa, (antiently the Metropolis of Sicilia, and enobled by ma ny titles) gave birth to many eminent men in all the sciences; as to Theocrito the Bucolick Poet, Filalao the Pythagorean, Filomone the Comick Poet in the daies of Alexander the Great, another Philomene a Comick, who also had a Son of the same name and profession, Sofrone a Comick in the daies of Euripides, Corace one of the prime Inventors of the Art of Oratory and his Disciple Cesia no lesse eminent in Oratory; Dione Siracusano who wrote of the Art of Rhetorick, Sofane the Tragick Poet, Epicarmo the most learned continued alwaies in Syracusa, and at his death had a statue erected in honour of him; Fotino the Comick Poet Carmo the Poet; Menecrates the Physician and Philosopher, Filosseno the Lyrick, Callimaco who wrote in verse concerning this Island, Mosco the Grammarian, Jaceta the Pihlosopher, Antioco the Historian, Filisto an Historian and Father of Dionygio the Tyrant; Callins the Historian, Theodore the Philosopher who wrote of the Art of Warr, Archetimus a Philosopher and Histo rian, Archimede a Philosopher and excelling Mathematician, with many others: Amongst the holy Martyrs it afforded Lucia the Virgin, and Stefano the third Pope.
From the County of Nea came Ducetio King of Sicilia, Giovanni Aurispa a famous writer, Antonio Cassarino a surpassing Orator, Giovanni Martasio a most celebrated Poet, and here also is the sepulchre of San Corrado the Placentian to whose merits they Fable many miracles. From Agrigento a famous City issued the Conquerour in the Olympick games before Diodorus, and Phalaris here exercised his cruel Tyranny which begot him the surname of Tyrant: hence also proceeded Creone and Acrone, both Philosophers and Physicians; Polo the Orator, Dinoloco a Comick, Archino a Tragick Poet, Sofocles and Xenocorate to whom Pindarus entituled two of his Odes.
In the City Therme now called Sacra, were born Agathocles King of Syracusa, and Thomaso Fazellio, of the order of San Domenico, who wrote the affairs of Sicilia in a large volume.
PALERMO.
THe City of Palermo, is the fairest of all the others of this Island, and at present the Metropolis and Regal Seat: of which much will here be spoken: she gave birth to Andrea the most antient and noble Philosopher, who wrote the Civil history of the Sicilians; [Page 324] but it was much more illustrated for the first breath it afforded to the Saints Oliva & Nimfa both Martyred for the Faith of Christ: & Antonio called the Palermitan, of the Knightly Family of Beccatelli of Bologna, an Orator & a noble Poet, & much ēdeared to all the Princes of his time. When also flourished Pietro Ranzano of the Preaching order, a Divine, an Oratour, and a famous Poet, and at last Bishop of Lucera. It bred also Monsignior Jacomo Lomellini its ArchBishop, a learned Prelate, and of great integrity of Life. Sicily nourished also many other famous persons as well antient as modern, as Sthenio, Thermitano, the defender of the Cities of Sicilia, Stesicoro one of the new Lyricks of Greece, Diodoro surnamed Siculo a famous and renowned Historian, whose life the Author hereof hath wrote at large in another Treatise; Thomaso Caula a Laureat Poet, and many others. Sharp and long wars were waged for the possession of this Island, between the Romans and Carthaginians, but the Romans at length remained Conquerours, and reduced her into a province at the overthrow of Hie rone (by Claudius Marcellus the Consul) who was the last of those Tyrants under whom she had then tofore been subjected. Then twas governed by Praetors till it fell into the power of the Emperors, and Charles the great; in which time the Empire and world being divided, Sicilia, Calabria and Puglia remained in obedience to the Emperors of Constantinople, under whom it continued till Niceforus bcame Emperor, in whose Reign the Saracens possessed it and Puglia, the Mount Saint Angelo, Nocero with other places in the yeer DCCCCXIIII. hence they made frequent incursions into Calabria, and to the very walls of Naples and Garigliano: against whom Pope John the tenth with Alberico Masalpina his Kinsman great Duke of Tuscany armed themselves, and with much difficulty and great slaughter drove them into the Monte Santo Angelo. Which Alberico was Son of Alberto, brother of Guido, grand Marquesse of Tuscany, some of whose medals I have seen with their Teste or Motto, and on the reverse the flourishing Thorn tree (the Arms of that Family) in the hands of the Marquesse Lodovico Masalpina a Gentleman no lesse facetious then curious in collections. The Saracini one hundred yeers after their in road into Italy were drove out by the Normandi, who were Counts of Sicilia, who for forty three yeers increased their Empire with much felicity, till Ruberto Guis cardo seized Puglia in his own name, and Sicilia in right of his Brother Ruggieri,; whereupon Pope Nicholas the second conceded to him the Title of Duke, and created him Feudatory of the Church: which was afterwards confirmed by Gregory the seventh, who by him was freed from the injuries of Harry the third. After whom, Guglielmo the second was by Innocent the 4th. created the first King, to whom succeeded Gulielmo the third who deceasing without issue, the Kingdome was usurped by one Taucredi a bastard of the Family of Guiscardi: against whom Pope Clement and Celestine the third opposed themselves; & in the end Celestine gave Costanza the daughter of Ruggier the second (a Nun in Palermo) for wife to Henry the Son of Frederick the Emperor with the Title and right claim of the Kingdome: whereupon Henry made war against Tancredi, besieged and flew him in Naples, and so succeeded in this Kingdome and Empire of his Father. After whom followed Frederick the second, his [Page 325] Son, then Manfredo the bastard Son of Frederick got the Kingdom, but was thence drove out by Charls of Anjou Brother of Saint Lewis King of France, being called in and invested therein by the Pope; under which Charls the Sicilians (being complotted with by Pietro d' Arragona, who married Costanza daughter of Manfredo) at the sound of the Vespers Bell, cut in peices all the French which were in Sicilia, by which means Pietro became Lord of the Island, which happened in the yeer 1283. By which occasion arose many contests and wars betwixt the Arragonians and the Anjouans for the possession of that Kingdom, with divers fortunes, till at length the Arragonians were wholly driven out of the Kingdome of Naples by Charls the VIII. But the Arragonians at last regained the possession by the prowesse of Consalvo Ferrando the great Captain, who drove out the French for Ferrando the Catholick King of Spain; from whom the Kingdomes of Sicilia and Naples passed by an hereditary succession to Charles the 5th. Emperor, and from him it descended to Philip the second, who left it to his Son Philip the third Catholick King, who now injoyes them in quiet possession.
A Description of the Island of MALTA
BEtween Sicilia, and the River of the one and t'other shore of Barbary, are fixed the two Islands Melita or Malta, and Gaulo or Gozo, the one distant from the other five miles, but eloigned from Pachino or Capo Passero a Promontory of Sicilia, (which they look towards) one hundred miles, and from Africa one hundred and ninety miles. Malta is 60. miles in circumference, being all as it were a plain though somewhat Rocky, and exposed to the windes, it hath many and secure Ports, but towards the North tis wholly deprived of fresh waters, but on the western parts are excellent Currance, and it produceth most fruitfull trees. Where tis broadest tis 12 miles over, and in the longest part 20 miles, and in all those seas is there not one Island so great distance from the firm Land as this is. In more then six places towards Sicilia, tis hollowed, and hath Ports as it were formed by the Sea of Sicilia for receipt of its Pyrates or Rovers on the Sea, but towards Tripolis tis all full of Cliffes and Rocks affording no mannor of Harbour. Tis called Melita in Latine from the Bees which in Greek are called Melitte for that the abundance and goodnesse of Flowers causeth in this Isle the production of the most excellent hony, but of late by corruption of the word we call it Malta. At its first habituation it yielded obedience to King Battus famous for his riches, and for the friendship and hospitality of Dido, whence afterwards it obeyed the Carthaginians. Whereof the many Collumnes placed up and down the Countrey, engraven with antient Carthaginian Characters (farr different from the Hebrean) give sufficient testimony. But at the same time when Sicilia was reduced to the Romans, it also rendered it self and was therefore governed by the same Laws, and the same Praetor as Sicilia was. Wherewith also [Page 326] coming afterwards into the power of the Saracens, it finally with Gozo in the yeer 1090. was possessed by Ruggieri Normanno, Count of Sicilia, till at length it obeyed the Christian Princes. The Ayr over all the Island is most healthfull, but chiefly to them that inure themselves to it: It hath Fountains and Orchards copiously replenished with Date Trees, and its soyle every where produceth plentifully all sorts of Grain and Corn, Flax, Cotton, Wool, Cummin seeds, and abundance of Roses eminently sweet favoured: here▪ also they have a kind of little neat white Dogs, which from their long hair we call shocks, of much delight to the people. The Earth is sowed all the year with little husbandry, and they reap two harvests and the trees likewise bear fruit twice in the yeer. In the winter every thing is green and flourisheth, and in the summer is burnt up with heat, howbeit a certain Dew falls which exceedingly nourisheth the Corn. At the head of a long and strait point almost opposite to the Capo Passero or Pachino in Sicilia is erected the Fortezza of Sant Ermo, but on the right hand towards Sicilia are some other points, and between them and Sant Ermo is a Channel of water upon one of which points is the Castle Sant Angelo, and the other the Fortezza of San Michael with their Bourges: between the one and the other of which lie the ship [...] & Galleys in a Channel which is locked at the utmost points with a vast Iron Chain. Eight miles off which place up the Land stands the City called Malta famoused by the Reliques of very noble Edifices, and by the antient dignity of a Bishoprick. This Isle hath a Pr [...]montory whereon was built a most antient and noble Temple dedicated to Juno, and held in great reverence, and another on the South to Hercules, whereof at this day huge ruines appear at the Port Euro. The men of this Island are brown complexioned, and their genius more approaches that of the Sicilians then any other. The women are beautifull enough but fly company, goe obscured abroad, are kept close at home, yet following the same manner of life as the Sicilians, and speaking a language more like and near the Carthaginian then any other language. The people are generally religious and particularly pay a great devotion to Saint Paul, to whom this Island is dedicated, for that here he by chance fell into the Sea, and was here entertained with great humanity: and on that shore where he fell in, is built a venerable Chapel; for their respect to whom they believe no noysome nor venemous Creature can grow or live on this Island. And from the Grotto where that Saint stood are stones by many plucked away, and carryed through Italy, (called the Gratia of Saint Paul,) to healthe bitings of Scorpions and Serpents. In our Age this Island had and hath great splendour for its Devotion, and the religious order of the Knights of Sant Giovanni or John of Jerusalem, the which having lost Rhodes (taken from them in the yeer 1522. by Soliman the magnificent the great Tnrk) had this Island given them by Charles the 5th. Emperour, where they have built the aforenamed Castles and Forts, that they may there reside with perpetual security. In the yeer 1565. they valiantly defended the same against a most potent Armada, which the same Soliman sent thither to conquer the Island and to drive out those Knights: which in time to come will not contribute lesse glory to Malta, then that which they reaped in times past from the general [Page 327] Council which under Pope Innocent the first was there celebrated by 214. Bishops against Pelagius the Heretike; among others there met Saint Austine and Sylvano Bishop of Malta. Soliman sent to this Attempt an Armada, a Fleet of 200 sayls, under the command o [...] Piali Bassa General of the Sea, a man both valiant and judicious, and of Mustapha, the Bassa General of the Land, a man very crafty, and much experienc't in warlike affairs: who having disembarked and landed their Army on the 18. of May, besieged and battered the Castle Sant Ermo, and after many contests and attempts, having beat down that wall flat to the Earth on the 23d. of June became Masters of the Fort, and put all the defendors to the Sword and cut them to pieces. There dyed then on the Turks part Dragut [...]ais the famous Pyrat, being wounded under the ear by the blow of a stone. Then they turned their force upon the two other Fortezza's of Sant Michael, and Saint Angelo. They planted a fierce battery against San Michael, which levelled the walls with the bank of the Fosse or Ditch by their falling therein, but in many and many assaults which they gave to the Castle, they were alwaies valiantly repelled by the Horse. Giovanni Valetta a French man the then great Master, a man of singular valour and prudence, not failing in any thing of conduct or necessary provision, that might merit the esteem of an excellent Commander. At last Don Garcia de Toledo, having selected sixty of the most nimble and polite galleys out of those of the King of Spain; and furnished them with nine thousand six hundred Souldiers between Spaniards, and Italians, advanced to land them securely on the Island. Which the Turks understanding forthwith imbarqued their Artillery, and advanced with 8000 Souldiers to view the Christian Army, who fell upon them with such ardour and fury, that they immediately most basely run away, and got into their Galleys, leaving 1800 dead, having killed but only four on the Christians side: And in this manner were the Turks constrained to abandon the Island to their [...]oul shame and confusion, and the great honour of Almighty God, whose hand strengthning this small number, clearly demonstrated, that by his favour, the valour of a few can oppose the violence of many.