CHAP. I. The first Occasion of the Authors going to Travel. A Sea-Storm. Arrival at Gibralter, at Genua, with it's Description, at Velez Malaga. Rescontre with 9 Corsairs of Algiers. Arrival at Boa Vista. A Description of the Salt Islands, Ilha Mayo, Ilha del Fuogo, St. Jago and Ilha del Brava. Proper Climat of those Isles. Arrival at Sierra Liones; The great Incivilitie of the King, allured to come aboard, fettered, and afterward thrown over board, A Description of Sierra Liones.

WEll worthy of remark is that Observation of a modern Sage, Despair drives a man either to the Camp, or a Convent: With no less reason may we add, That the insubid Reso­lutions and Praecipitance of youth, lead either to illicit Arts, or Travel: which last was a Misfortune fatal to my self. My Fathers sole Care was to see me train'd up, in some lau­dable Vocation, or other; whereby I might for the future be in a capa­city to acquire my necessary sustenance, without being burthensom to my Relations, or the use of any dishonourable Mean, or Practise: And [Page 2] to that end put me out to a Sail-maker. DEC. 1647. He now perceiving some hope­ful Prospect of Good in my Undertakings, was ever studious to give me all the Incouragement he could on his part; and to show the Af­fection incumbent on a Parent, restrain'd me, as far as in him lay, from going abroad, or associating my self with such Company, as might be obnoxious, or destructive to those good Maxims he had given me: But various are the Tempers and Dispositions of Youth; and sometimes their frame of spirit so occult, that the piercing Judge­ments of riper Years cannot sound it, although it were with the Eies of Eagles.

Set sail from Texel.My Father, whose Rigour was somewhat more than tolerable, was never remiss in reprehending me for any noted Vice; so that for some bad deportment he once took occasion to Chastise me, and that with such severity, that I resolved to take my leave both of him, and my native Land. At that time there were two Ships fitted out, and bound for Genua: the one was called, The St. John Baptist, Henry Christansz. of Amsterdam Master, the other, The St. Bernard, Iohn Ben­ning of VVesep Vice-Commander, and Herman Voogd of Schiedam Master; Over both these Ships was Mr. Iohn Maas of Dunkirk, as Up­per-Commander. The former was mounted with 28 Guns, the latter carried 26. I hired my self aboard the St. I. Baptist for Under-Sailmaker, being then about 17 years old, never troubling my self either whither we were bound, or how long we were to be out.

On the 26 of December 1647. By Gods good Conduct, we set Sail, from the Texel, but were hardly got without the Gaats, ere we found that our Ships were not duly poiz'd, and thereupon were fain to Tack about, and put in at the Texel again, where we unloa­ded part of the Ships-burthen, and took in a considerable quantity of Pewter, some Boxes of Quicksilver, and other ponderous Ma­terials, to Ballast us well at the Keel; which when we had done and all ready, we set out the second time, that was upon the 4 day of Ianuary, January, 1648. 1648, and with a brave Wind, we passed the Spaniards Gat, driven with some Shoals of Ice (it being then Frosty weather) Seawards.

On the 10 of Ianuary we were forced by a contrary wind to put in at the Downs; where after two days aboad, we weighed anchor, having both Wind and Weather favourable. But soon after by a [Page 3] heavy Storm and rough Sea, FEBR. 1648. Storm at Sea. we were forced again to put into some other Harbour; which we did at the Isle of VVight, & there we stay'd till the 25 ^th when the Weather began to grow more moderate, and the high Winds abated.

Under hopes that this good Weather would continue we fet sail, but were no sooner out of the Bay, before the Weather changed, and we now the third time forc'd to look out for a Harbour.

On the 6 of February we came to Anchor at Portland, where we road three days, and then set sail directly for the Bay of Gibralter, where we arrived on the 10 ^th of that moneth. The next day with a brisk gale we entred the Straits, and with a constant and favourable wind, made Genua in 15 days, where arriving we dropp'd Anchor behind the Mold.

On the 32 ^th we got Prattica, Arrival de Ge­nua. and Licence to unload both the Ships; which done the Men were paid off, and dismiss'd. The Ships, as we said before, were sold to the Duke of Genua, which he furnished with Provision of Victuals, Powder, Shot and other Ammunition, for 2 years. Aboard each Ship were a Hundred Dutch taken into service, the rest for the most part Italians, amongst which were a few of the Banditti. Here I hired my self for Upper-Sailma­ker, and had 18 Livers per Moneth; although neither I, nor any else that went before the Mast, knew whither, or upon what Design.

Having now regain'd my liberty, I long'd to satisfy my curiosity in taking a view of the Town, with what else was worthy of remark. Genua is seated on the Sea side, Descrip­tion of Genua. having a very commodious and com­plete Haven, on the South facing the Co [...]st of Affrica. The City is built partly on montanous and hilly ground, and partly on a Le­vel, seated between two velleys; and is computed to be abut 6 Ita­lian Miles in circumference, being very well and close built, muni­ted with strong Walls, sufficient enough to resist a small Attacque; but would not secure the Town in a long and durable Siege; or vio­lent Storms, without the Militia. Their Militia consists of some Dutch and Corsican Companies, together with a few small Troops of Horse, which are constantly in motion, either on the Sea-side, or thro the City, to prevent, if need require, any silent Attacque, and suppress Mutinies; as also to secure the Coasts from Turkish and other Pyrats, which sometimes come ashoar in their Shalops, to get Slaves [Page 4] and Spoil. They have alwaies four Galleys ready upon all Oc­casions, for Defence of the Havens; besides a considerable number more, which they have in their Arsenal, in good equippage; these are often imployed as Auxiliaries for the Venetians, against the Turks. On the Sea-side stands a Watch-Tower, on which by night they set a Beacon; and just at the Entrance of the Haven, stands a huge piece of Ordnance, mounted upon a Carriage, continually guar­ded with a Sentinel. The Dukes Person is guarded with a Body of 500 Soldiers, who with their Colonel have a place allotted them in the Palace. The City is generally well built with stately Houses and magnificent Structures, more especially on that side which is seated near the Sea: having besides the more eminent Hostels and Public Buildings, 30 fair Parish Churches, of which that dedicated to St. Laurence claims the priority, as Cathedral. In the Church dedicated to the H. Eucharist, Genua. they show'd us a Key made of an Emerald, being of the unusual bignes that [...]t's worth may not be computed. Com­ing to the Church of St. Bartholomew, we saw a handkercheif, with which they told us our Saviour wiped the sweat from his face, and (as they say) has done abundance of Miracles. The City is very popu­lous, their Merchants rich and numerous; and their Manufactury also very considerable, especially in Velvets, there being according to the relation given us; above 8000 Looms in the Town so that con­sidering the Magnificency of Building, the Riches of her Mer­chants, Commodiousness of Situation, and Splendor of her Court and Palace, may be reckoned as a Town of the first Magnitude.

Velez Malaga.On the 12 of April we set sail, directing our course for Velez Ma­laga, where on the 15 we arrived. On the 18 we hoised sail, and made for Malaga, and on the 24 came to cast anchor in the Bay; where almost all the Banditti were set ashoar. Here we took in a hundred Pipes of Wine, with candied Fruits and other Refreshments for the sick.

On the 29 of May we weighed Anchor, and with a brisk gale of Wind reached the Straits mouth on the 2 of Iune. When we were past Gibralter, we steer'd our Course towards the Salt Islands, which was designed for another place of Refreshment, from whence we gathered that, our Voyage must needs be longer than at first we thought; for till then none aboard the ship (unless the Officers) [Page 5] knew whither we were bound, JUNE, 164 [...]. or upon what account we were sent out.

On the fourth of Iune, we met with 9 Turkish Men of War, about the 3d. Watch in the night, who Hail'd us, asking, from whence our ship, we answered, From Genua, and asked them, From whence they were: they made answer, From Argiers. Our Com­mander hearing that unwelcome Eccho, was not a little alarm'd, and could have wish'd himself at a further distance; however he re­solves to exchange a ball or two with them by break of day; and in or­der thereto gets all in a readiness; commands every man to his Post, and gave us all the courage he could by his own Example. The Cor­sairs who although better man'd and mounted than we, Arrival at Boa Vista. had no great stomach to go so early to breakfast, for observing such marks of Courage in our Officers, and that they were absolutely resolved to fight'um, made all the sail they could, and left us.

On the 14 we pass'd the Flemmish Islands, and on the 6 of July, we arrived at Boa Vista, where we came to Anchor in the Bay. On this Island were several of the Banditti, who brought us such Pro­vision as they had aboard: we took in also ten boats of salt. About this Island is such plenty of Fish that at one draught we got 1500 Corcoads and Salmon-Fry.

Boa Vista is one of those Islands, which are called Cabo Verdo Islands, Descri­ption of the Sale Islands. having obtained that appellation, from it's delectable prospect from the Seaward, and lies 7 leagues to the northward of Ilha del Sal: and is reckoned to be about 20 leagues in circumference, stretched out in length South-east and North-west. That part which lies near the sea is all sandy and hilly ground, but within altogether montanous and high land. On the north end is a long Bank near half a league in length, which repelleth the billows of the sea with great violence. There are yet besides this several other Foords, which are often the occasion of Shipwrack. On the South is also another, where the Rocks sometimes appear above water, The Island Majo. and points out towards the East, and E. and by North. The best and safest place to come to Anchor in, is at the Southwest Point, where is a very commodious Road for Ships of the greatest burthen, having at lest 16 or 17 fathom Water, and a fine sandy ground.

In this Road we lay at anchor 6 days, and then set sail for Majo, [Page 6] St. Iago, JULY 1648. Fuogo and Brava; which are the nearest Islands to Boa Vista.

The Island Majo.The Island Majo lies about nine leagues S. S. W. or rather mo [...] Westerly, from Boa Vista, and is the smallest of all the rest, being about 7 leagues round. Within land are several steep hills, and on the North a Plain, about a league in breadth from whence reaches out a long Bank towards the North-east, and another towards the West, which cause impetuous Breaches of the Sea, and conse­quently great danger for Ships that sail that way. The Island is al­most round in circumference, having its breadth and length almost equal, and is full of small Capes or Promontories, which make so many Inlets. The common Road belonging to this Island, is on the South-west Coast, where you have 15 and 16 fathom Water, and a sandy ground; having the Western point of the Island at N. and by W. and another Point at E. S. E. and the South end of St. Iago S. W. On the North side of the Island, behind a litle black Cape, lies a small Bay, or Road for Anchorage, at 5 or 6 fathom water, and upon the lowest point, on the East, is a Village of 10 or 12 houses. This Island is very rocky, high and dry, having litle grass upon it but what grows in the clefts of the Rocks. It is also very barren of Fruit, neither Lemmons nor Oranges will like there; nor no other fruit whatsoever, unles sigs, and those, by reason of the drought of the Season and Ground, seldom ever come to maturity, or return to profit. There are in this Island some Cotton-trees, and good plenty of Goats, so that there are many thousands of those Hides transported yearly from hence. There are also some wild Hor­ses, Kine and Asses; good plenty of Fowl, as Patridge, Heath­hens, Bustards, Wild-geese, and other Fowl, not known with us in Europe.

There are also many Saltpans on this Island, where the Salt by the Ground Water, and the Ingress of the Sea, with the help of the Sun, is well concreted, yet is somewhat too yellow in colour. The Inhabitants are a mixt folk, of Negros, and others, who follow Goat hunting, using Wolves in stead of Dogs. Some also follow the Fishing trade, and find great plenty of A kind of Sea­bream. Cyprins, Dorades, and other Fish.

St. Jago.St. Iago is the greatest and chief of the Cabo Verdo Islands, being about 12 leagues in length, lying South-East and North-west: The [Page 7] South-east Cape thereof hath the Road of the Island Majo on the West, and W. and by N. about 5 leagues distant. The high Land of St. Iago lies from the Road of Majo directly West, but the middle thereof South-west from Boa Vista, or rather more Westerly; and from the Salt Island S. W. and by S. about 25 Leagues. From the South-west Angle, the coast stretches it self forth 2 leagues South-west, where there is a small Hamlet, called Praye, situated in a com­modious place, between two Hills, and environed with 2 Rivers; which running into the Sea, do make two handsom Bays, one whereof is called Porto de Praye, and has room enough to contain an hundred Ships, which may safely ride at Anchor, without damni­fying each other, having 14 fathom water, and shot-free from Land, as also the benefit of a small Island, which breaks off the wind. Sail­ing past Porto de Praye, before you come at the Town, is a Cape, or small Promontory, which the Portugeezes call Capo de Tubarao: On the West whereof is another Bay, called Porto de Ribeirra Corea, which also is very fitly seated between two Hills, and a River that runs through the midle, rising from a fountain, about 2 leagues from thence, and disgorging it self into the Sea, by a mouth about a Bow­shot in breadth. In the North is also another Haven called St. Mary. On the Island St. Iago are yet two Towns of note, whereof the one is called St. Thomas, very well seated; the other St. Iago, or St. Iames, which is built upon a rising Ground: This is the Metropolis of all the Towns of these Islands, where is also the Residence and Palace of their Bishop. Towards the West, on an Angle of the Island is a Fortress, two leagues from Porto de Praye, where Ships come to anchor; and North-west from this Angle another Haven; known by the name of Porto de Canisos.

This Island is very fertile, and abounds with fruit of several kinds, as on each side the Rio de Corea grow great plenty of Cocos, Oranges, Citrons, & other Fruit-trees, as also some Cedars. Besides this, it affoards good store of Rice, Maïs, and other grain, as also Cattel both for work and slaughter.

Ilha del Fuogo, or, The Isle of Fire, probably has that name from one of it's Mountains, which continually sends forthflames, Ilha del Fuogo. by some intestin Fire. It lies in 14 degr. 20 min. Northerly Latitude, and 12 leagues from the South-west point of St. Iago. North-west, [Page 8] on the West-side, JULY, 1670. is a Bay, and a small castle seated at the foot of a hill: but the violent course of the stream, renders the haven unapt to receive any Shipping. Those that would enter the Bay must steer their course to the North of this Island, and so about.

About 4 leagues South-west of Ilha del Fuogo, lies Ilha del Brava, that is, VVild, or Desert Island, with two or three small Islands, on the North thereof. On the West-side is a Creek, very convenient for such as have occasion to take in water: but the best haven is on the South-east side where it is 15 fathom deep, and a Ship of the greatest burthen may come to anchor close to the Kay. Above this Harbour is a Hermitage, and a Village very well peopled. This Island is also fruitfull enough, having good store of figs, Mulberrys, Water-Melons, and Indian wheat, but far inferiour to Mayo and St Iago for cattel.

The Air of these Islands is generally unwholsom, so that the in­habitants are very subject to Feavers, Aches and Fluxes. These Islands lying between the Aequator and the Tropic of Cancer, affoard the People two Summers every year, the Sun passing twice directly over their heads. When the sun enters into Cancer, which is in the end of Iune, the season is very intemperate, with Storms, Winds, Thun­der and Lightning, continuing so till the midle of October; the [...] the Portugueezes call the Rain moneths. They have certain tokens, whereby they know when this Season approaches, as, high Southe [...] ly Winds which blow along the Coast, and the Salt, which begin to dissolve, with the Billows rolling out of the Sea.

On the 14 we left the Salt Islands, and set sail, for Sierra Liones and made land, on the 2d of August, hearing at a great distance the Wind roaring from the Mountains, which by the reason of their Concavity, do make a great buzzing when it blows hard, that per­haps has given them the name of Sierra Liones, or Lioness Mountai [...] A litle before the evening we came with our Boat close to the shore where we heard a most terrible Noise, occasioned by an impetuou [...] and continual beating of the billows through the cleft of a Rock which was so loud that we could hardly hear one another spea [...] Sierra Liones takes it's beginning from Cabo de Virgin, and stretches [...] self so far out as Cabo Tagrin, or Lede, which is also by some call [...] [Page 9] Cabo de Sierra Liones, JULY 1648. lying in 8 Degr. and 13 Min. Northerly Latitude; and by reason of it's height, is easily distinguished from that Continent, which lies to the Northward of this Pro­montory; the more because it reaches further Seaward. The South, and South and by E. part of this Land lies toward the Sea, and is high and hilly, but the land of the Cape towards the North, for the most part level and marshy. There are 13 Rivulets which coming from the Land, run through these Moun­tains, and so empty themselves in the Ocean, and have on their banks plenty of Fruit-trees, as Oranges, Pome-Citrons, and the like.

On the 3 of August we arrived in the Bay of Sierra Liones. Imme­diately upon our arriving there, the Commander sent the Shallop ashoar, and such persons as he did think fit, with Presents for the King, which were 5 Barrs of Iron, a Barrel of Brandy, and another of Spanish Wine.

Those men that were nominated to deliver the Presents, were courteously received by the King and his Court. We could not perceive any Mark of Superiority, or Grandour in the Prince, which might distinguish him from his Subjects, no more than in Mr. Mayor of Stratford, from his Worshipfull Brethren, the Aldermen. Yet found him much to vary from some other Soveraign Potentates who enrich themselves at the Cost and Penury of their Vassals. The King and his Folk were equally insatiable and covetous; for so soon as the King had received the Present, he desired as much more, which the Commander was content to send him, that he might have the freedom to take in Water, and Wood for Fewel, as also to provide our selves with Oranges, Lemmons, and other Refresh­ments. The Inhabitants, which are called Caffers, shew'd us no small Friendship; for, so long as our Penny lasted, they never faild of a Pater noster, bringing us every day good store of Fruit. When the King had received the double Present, he insisted upon twice as much more, before he would admitt of our coming ashoar. This great incivility so inraged the Commander, that he resolved to be revenged upon him; and pursuant thereto sent the Long-boat ashoar to entreat him to come aboard, where he should receive what his King ship desired. The credulous Barbarian, made no long pause [Page 10] in the matter; JUNE, 1648. but presently, with a certain number of his Gen­try, stept into the Boat, and so were brought aboard. But his Retinue being too numerous, the Commander having regard to our safety, would not permit above 5 or 6 to come aboard. The King was no sooner got aboard, but he ran in all hast to the Great Cabin, in hopes of some ample Gift; but much mistaken, The King of Sierra Liones fettered, and threat­ned to be han­ged. for the Commander gave order that he should be fetter'd, which was accordingly done, and 4 men appoin­ted to attend him. The King was hereat mainly altered, but afterward much more, when he saw the Commander in­tended to hang him at the Yards arm, which had certainly been had not the Master of the Ship undertaken the Office of a Mediator upon him, and made intercession for his Life. The Commanders wrath thus pacified, he gave order to throw him over board, which was immediately obey'd and executed, by 4 of the Ships Company, who threw him out at the Fore-castle Port; But he was so well disciplin'd in swimming, that he presently got ashoar. His Retinue seeing that, with all the hast they could, be­took themselves immediatly to their Canoes, The houses of the Caffers pillaged; and their Or­chards Spoil'd. and made as if they would do some prodigious Feat, or other; or at lest obstruct our com­ing ashoar, to take in what was necessary. The Commander, whose temper was too couragious, to be daunted for a swarm of Flies, sent two Boats ashoar to fetch Water and Wood, both well Man'd and Arm'd, and in spite of all their Force, hew'd as much Wood, and brought as much Water, as they thought might serve our turn, The Commander notwithstanding all this, was not yet content, but remanded the men and Shallops to pillage their Houses and Or­chards, and set the Kings Neger-house on fire; all which they did in a moment. The King seeing this, thought it high time to put him­self in a posture of Defence; and in order to that, musters up all the Forces he could on a sudden, the whole Countrey being Alarm­ed, and appear'd with a number of a Thousand Canoes, or more, half of each being loaden with Faggots, whether to set our Ships on fire, or to use them for Shields, we could not determine: how­ever having obtained our ends, we held it best to weigh Anchor, and proceed on our Voyage, rather than to incurr a needless & unprofi­table Ingagement, with a Company of such contemptible Schoun­drels. [Page 11] In which Resolution we set sail, directing our Course for Madagascar.

Before we were got out of sight of Sierra Liones, we met with a small Flyboat which Traded along that Coast, whereof one Iohn Backer of Durgerdam was Master. The Master came and proffered his Ship and service to our Commander and Vice-Admiral, to conduct us over the Foords and shallow Places of the Red sea, and to make use of his Vessel as an advice Yacht. But our Ship-master disswaded them to accept of his Tender, whereupon he declared that he was un­willing, and so declined his Favour. This Master had the like Rescontre with that Kings Majesty, and for his Churlishness gave him a toss (as he told us) out of the Cabin-port so that it seem'd a Paradox to us, that he would be so void of Prudence as to ha­zard himself a second time, being once before in jeopardy of his Life.

Sierra Liones both in regard of its' Copiousness of Fruit, Descrip­tion of Sierra Liones. and Plenty of Good Water is a very proper place to put in at, for Refreshment. It abounds with A kind of plant, called al­so Mi­lium, and Hyrsi bearing a multitude of small grains, from whence it hath that name. Millets, Oranges, Lemmons, Banans, Cocos, Wild Grapes, and abundance of many other sorts of Fruits; as also Su­gar canes and a kind of Long pepper. It affoards, besides Fruit-trees, good Timber, and Ingredients very usefull in Dying; but by rea­son of our short aboad, and want of opportunity to make in­spection into the Countrey, we could not inform our selves what Product the Land affoarded, as peculiar to it self; nor to make any advantage of our Landing there, except our Refreshment. There is good store of Fish, and Oysters, which ly very thick in the clefts of the Rocks, and are extraordinary large and good. 'Tis true if any be necessitated to put in there for fresh Water, they need not be at a loss, for there are all along the Coast many choice Rivers, which are pure Rain-water, that comes from the Mountains, but in the Month of May, (the beginning of the Rain season) it is very unwholsom and unapt for use, as our Masters Mate told me who was well acquainted with those Parts, and is frequently the Occasion of Feavers, Fluxes, and other per­rillous distempers; and not only so, but is so venemous, that where it falls upon the skin of one, who is not used to that Climat, will cause Tumors and Ulcers, and breeds a kind of worm or moth in [Page 12] cloaths which may serve for a Caveat to such as shall be forced to make use of it, SEPT. 164 [...]. about that time of the year, although it be approved good, when it is some days old, as if the venemous property were vanished with keeping. The Inhabitants are not altogether black, but tawny; and their bodies cauterized in many places with hot Irons. The tips of their Ears, and their noses, are bored through, and hung with Jewels, which they hold for passing rare Ornaments. Both Men and Women go naked, and use no manner of Vesture save only a furcingle, or towel; made of the barks of Trees, which (it seems) for modesty sake, they wear about their Middle. Those that inhabit those parts which lie further within Land, are Can­nibals (or Men-eaters) but such as dwell near the Sea, more civiliz'd, and flexible to commerce with Europeans, and other Strangers. The King with whom we were concern'd, was an old, ill visag­ed and homely Man, in a Garb tolerably handsom, after the Moo­rish fashion; having also a kind of a hat of a grayish colour; but neither he, nor any of his Retinue, had either shoes or stockings, but such as they came into the World with.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Madagascar. The remarkable Chance of the Commander, meeting with the King. The Death of the Vice Commander Benning; and the disorders thence arising. Both the Ships put in a Fighting Posture, and ready to give each other Battel. Voogt yields, and is fetter'd. The description of Madagascar; it's Fertility, Store of Cattel; Goodness of their Sheep; Many kinds of Monkeys. Nature of the Inhabitants, Form, Habit, House-keeping, Marriages and Funerals. Their impious cruelty over their Children. Their Religion, Policy and Warrs.

Arrival at Ma­dagascar (or sas it is by some called) S. Lau­renceON the 13 of October we arrived at Madagascar, and came to Anchor in the Bay of Anton Gill. So soon as we had cast An­chor we sent forth our Boat, and put out a white Flag in token of Friendship; which they observing, did the like. But we were great­ly dismay'd, when we saw a great number of men running down the Hills toward us, with Bows, Arrows and Darts: so that we not daring to trust our selves to them, concluded our safest way was to return, and row back again to our Ships; but they perceiving that, one of them cried out, Be not afraid, but come boldly to [Page 13] land; we will do you no harm, we give you liberty to come ashoar. OCTO [...] 1648. Capt. Maas told us that he had been there in that Island before, and that a Slave of his, whom he had taught to read and write, had run away from him there, having taken his opportunity when the Ship was ready to set Sail; and that he had heard how the Slave was come to great Advancement, and by the Natives elected King.

So soon as we were got to land, we were introducted by the King himself, and his Attendants into his Pallace, which was in the midst of a Sconce, reasonably strong, and environ'd with Palizados. The House was hung with neat Mat-work, and the Floors covered with the same. The King presently began to inquire, What for People that we were? and, to what place our Ship belong'd? for he could see by her Colours that we did not come out of Holland. The Commander made answer that we were Hollanders; but were then in the service of the Duke of Genua, to whom the Ships belong'd. After they had exchanged a few Words together, the Commander assumed the liberty to ask him, Where he had learned to speak Dutch? I have been, quoth he, formerly in East India, and was at that time a Slave to one Iohn Maas, a Marriner, and intending for Holland, we were surpriz'd with a dismal Hurricano, which disabled us of our Masts, and made us in such a Condition, that we were forced to put in here to Calk, and fit us out again; but I having no great appetite [...] proceed on our Voyage, deserted my Master, when I saw the Ship was ready to sail. Well (quoth the Captain) was not your name Diembro. Yes, replies the King, do you know me? Why, said the Captain, do you not know Iohn Maas? The King was hereupon in a great stupor, but viewing him thorowly began to remember his Countenance, and with that embraced and kissed him. While they stood mute a while and staring one another earnestly on the face, both stupifyed at this strange meeting, the King began thankfully to acknowledge, how good a Master our Commander had been to him, and presented him all necessary Provision gratis: but the Commander courteously declined it, saying, He estemed it a sufficient Favour to exchange Wares for Wares. The King (according to the custome of that Country) presented our men the use of his Wives and Con­cubines; who coming forth made choice of such as they would [Page 14] have, and went aside with them. This kind Tender was as freel [...] accepted as offered, by the greatest part of our Ships-folk, wh [...] were not very shy to enter into Conjunctions with that tawny Brood but what monstrous Complexions they afterward brought into th [...] world, The Death of Mr. John Benning, Captain of the St. Bernard. I only guess, since our aboad there could not be long. I may not ommit the fatal Difference, and Misunderstanding of our Offi [...]cers among themselves, occasioned upon the Decease of Capt. Joh [...] Benning, who commanded the S. Bernard. The Chief Commande [...] Maas, together with the rest of the Officers thought fit to p [...] Henry Christians, Master of the St Iohn Baptist in his place, and Ho [...] man Voogt in the placc of H. Christians; Tumults there­upon. but Voogt did not approve [...] this Transposition, and let the Chief Commander know that [...] would not abandon his Board and Right, unless he would fet [...] him away by force; thereupon he brought up all the Guns out [...] the Hold, and put himself in a Posture of defence. The next mo [...] ning by break of Day, Both the Ships rea-ady to sight. our Commander, with some of the O [...] cers descrying that the Red Flag was put out, aboard the St. B [...] nard, were not a litle alarm'd: immediately gave order that we sho [...] also (with all possible expedition) put our selves in a Fightin [...] posture, which was don in a moment. Our Commander unde [...] standing that Vooght had sent off a boat (with intent to fetch wate [...] sent out the Shallop, as full of men as could well stand, all w [...] armed, who row'd as hard as they could till they overtook the oth [...] boat, which they brought back. The men being come aboard, t [...] Commander gave order to put them in Fetters, till he could ha [...] better information about their intention: with that the Comman [...] made as if he would lay the St. Bernard aboard, closing up w [...] her Bow. Harman Voogt seeing himself in a great Strait, and for w [...] of men hardly in a capacity to maintain his Pretences, was mu [...] disheartned, and after he had advised the matter more fully w [...] himself, Voogt yields and goes aboard, is clapt into Fetters. thought good to let out the Shallop, and go aboard [...] Commander, the men incessantly crying out, Let our Captain and M [...] return without any molestation, or, by Heaven and Earth, we will either sink be sunk: we are resolved either to loose our own lives in his Vindication, or, yours an Expiation, without either giving or taking Quarter. Yet notwithstandi [...] all this, their Schipper was no sooner come aboard but the Comman [...] gave order to bring him upō the Quarter Deck where he was made [...] [Page 15] hand and foot; and after him the first and second Mate, together with the rest of the Officers were brought up, and immediatly clapt into shakles. The foremast men seeing themselves outwitted by the Commanders Politie, began to loose their Courage, and after a ma­ture deliberation among themselves, concluded it the safest way to surrender themselves and Ship to the Commander. This done, a Council of War was held, and the Captive Officers ( Voogt himself only excluded) were brought into the great Cabin, where the Council, for the time being, was assembled, and asked which they would rather chuse, To burn with their Ship? or, To serve the Com­mander faithfully without murmuring? They conceiving that there was no hopes of avoiding some severe Penalty, or other, which the Council, perhaps, had designed in case of their continuing refractory, chused the latter: and with one humbly begged pardon for their misdemeanours, promising for the future not to be facti­ous in any Uproar, or the Occasion of Tumult. Upon these Sup­plications the Council sat again, and came to this Result, Result of the Council of War con­cerning the Offi­cers, and Ships-folk. That their former misbehaviour should be connived at; but, Voogt the Master to continue in Irons, till we came again to Genua, where he should be banished upon the Galleys, during the term of life, as a condign Punishment for his obstinate Rebellion. However to pre­vent any mutinous consultations which might otherwise find oppor­tunity, and detard our Voyage, the Ships companies were mixed and counterchanged; some of our men sent aboard the St. Bernard, and others from the St. Bernard in lieu of them, brought over to us. In the mean while we recreated our selves with the Divertisements of Hun­ting, Fishing and Fowling; as also ranging the woods, which we found stored with many sorts of Fruit.

Madagascar is distant from the Coast of Cefale about 110 Leagues, and 44 from Mosambique. It lies in length Northeast and Southwest; reaching from about 12 degr. to 26, Southerly Latitude; being about 220 Dutch leagues in length and 70 in breadth, and consequently reputed the largest Island in the whole World. It is also divided into several Provinces and Dominions, which are mostly bounded and severed from each other, by Rivers.

This Island is very fertile, and affoards great plenty of Grain, as Wheat (or Mais) and Barly, as also Pulse, as Lentils Pease & Beans [Page 16] of several kinds. They have also abundance of Water Melons, Ananas, Bananas, and other unknown Plants and Roots. The Trees are loaden with Oranges, Lemons, Pome-Citrons, and two kinds o [...] Pomegranates, to wit, a sweet and a sour, as also delicate Pears, Figs Almonds, &c. Besides these Fruits, they have several strange Roots that may be used for Diet, which they call Ouviharen, Schambri, Ca [...] bares, Ouvifoutty, Offehe, Mavondre, Damborn, and others, which cannot call to mind, at present. It affoards also very rich Honey, variety of Gums, Medicinal Balsams, Oils, Roots and Herbs, nor ma [...] we ommit the commemoration of its' rich Mines, and variety o [...] Mettals, though the best it affoards beyond other Places, is Steel. Th [...] Gold which is digged here, is much baser than that of Peru, the Oun [...] not valuing above ten Crowns. Neither is this Island without Prec [...] ous stones, as Topaz, Amethyst, Emerald, Sapphire, Jacynth, Jaspar, Agath, with Blood Stones and others. It abound with Beasts, as Kine, tame and wilde, Goats which have young times a year; the Sheep are very fat, their tails weighing some [...] pound a piece; Swine they have also, both tame and wild, who [...] flesh whether hung, or pickled, is far better then that which [...] have in Europe. There is also a kind of wild Swine that th [...] Inhabitants call Per­haps Por­cupines, which are of la­te grown common in Euro­pe. Tendrak, which they hold for a great del [...] cacy: The same beast sleeps six moneths in the year, in which time she casts her Prickles, as Hedge-hogs do, which are also the in great abundance. The Dogs of this Island are for the most pa [...] litle, shore-snouted and stump-ear'd. Apes and Monkeys run [...] great troops, some times 50, 60 or 100 together, of which the [...] are several kinds. Those that are white are the most cruel, an [...] hardest to catch, or tame. Another sort there are which are grey, an [...] not so big as the white which are more tame and flexible; these the often take by wiles, and teach them several practical and artific [...] exercises. Why an Apt Commit a Rape. There are besides these another kind of white Ape [...] that go almost right over end, and are so lecherous that even th [...] Women in that place, cannot be secure for them, which they ravi [...] if they find an opportunity, one holding her, till another has pe [...] form'd his Task; whom, when they have had their will, the sometimes rend in pieces. But there is a kind of Gray Apes, which are held in most esteem; having eies like fire, and are very wi [...] [Page 17] and unapt to be tamed, and some so savage that they will rather starve than be fed out of hand. There are also many Squirrels Wesels and Civet Cats. They are likewise annoyed with many sorts of venemous Creatures and Vermin, as Scorpions, Spiders, Wasps and Millepedes, which are here so horribly fell, that the party stung falls immediately into a swound.

This Island is inhabited both by Whites and Negros, The In­habitants, their Na­ture, Garb, and Posture. the former having long and lank hair, the latter a litle curled, and handsom bodied. There are also a sort of tawny People that are not so well civiliz'd as the rest, letting their hair and beards grow, which the other for the most part shave.

They are in general a treacherous and fraudulent people, prone to Thievery, and greedy of Revenge, which they esteem a lauda­ble vertue, and deem him a man of merit, who knows how to quit himself handsomly in vindication of a Quarrel; but on the contrary he that puts up an affront or injury done him, is held in great contempt, and stigmatiz'd for a Coward. They are by nature very sluggish, and inclined to Sloth, much given to Dancing and Sing­ging. These that are willing to take upon them any hard Imploy­ment or laborious exercise, are such as follow Husbandry, Smiths, Carpenters, Fullers, Spinners, Weevers, Fishers and Fowlers. Their Smiths have a good way to temper Iron and Steel, and are very active in making Knives, Javelins, Pile-heads and Plyers to pull up hair by the roots. They have also Silversmiths, but such as hardly deserve the naming.

Their Houses are but little wooden Tabernacles, Their Houses of one story high and a firm Cieling; yet at the Inauguration of those Cottages they make sumptuous Banquets: So soon as the House is completed the Owner invites all his Relations and Allies, with other acquain­tance to the said House, where they are entertained in splendid manner: Yet this Treat is not at all chargeable to him, but rather an advantageous mean; for there is not any of these Guests who dare make his appearance without some Present, which he is to bring with him (as if it were at a VVestmerland wedding) Some bring Gold, Silver, or Steel; some great Bowls with Corn, or perhaps Moveables and Furniture for the House; others Oxen, Sheep or other Belly-timber. So that in brief, none ever comes [Page 18] empty-handed; by which means the Builder has not only the Expences of his Feast reimburs'd, but sometimes more than what he has laid out in such a stupendious Fabric. These Encaenia, or Feasts Dedicatory, do usually hold for some days together, during which time they live an Epicuraean life, in Luxury and Riot, Danc­ing, Singing and Playing. Most of their House furniture is what properly belongs to the Kitchin: but as for Table, Stools, Benches, Table-cloth, Napkins, Beds and Cushions they never use any, and when they eat sit down humbly upon a Mat.

Their Ha­bit and AttireThe Common People go almost naked, but these of the best rank are aparreled in different vestures, to distinguish the sexes; the men wearing Breaches which reach from the midle to the Calf of the leg, and from the midle upward a Cotton cloth, (almost like a Scotch Plad) thrown carelesly about their shoulders, girded about the mid­dle with a Surcingle. The Women wear a Garb, with, and without, sleeves, demitted to the knees, having also a kind of Drawers with a Girdle about the body, and sometimes a litle mantle thrown about their Shoulders. Their Cloths are mostly of Cotton, Bombast, and Silk of various Colours, garnished with loops of Silk, which is of another colour than the Garment it self. Both men and women go bare-headed, and barefoot, except one sort, whereof the Man wears a Cap, some­thing resembling that of a Jesuit, and the Woman a Hood made after the form of a Pyramid, which comes down to the shoulders.

Their Marria­ges.Their Marriages are generally performed without many Ceremo­nies; and Polygamy allowed, every man taking to himself so many Wives as he thinks fit, or is capable to maintain. They are also easi­ly divorced, Their men will not stick to delight themselves with the Wives of others, and the Women as inclinable to that way, as any in the World, and are carefull to make use of every Opportunity they meet with: This they esteem no sin, but account it (if they can do it cunningly without being catch'd in the Fact) but a kind of Filching or clandestin Theft, which may be expiated, with some inconsidera­ble Present, or Gift. Their Young women are also great Trade [...] that Way; and without shamefastness will render themselves pro­stitute, to any that will but give good wages, and those generall [...] most opplauded, which come off with most Gain: and if they inten [...] to marry will not give their Consent to their Party, till they have mad [...] [Page 19] proof of his Manhood. The Parents are delighted to see their Chil­dren active in imitation, and yet notwithstanding this licentious sensuality be tolerated in the Action, yet they will be offended at their Daughters, if they utter any word without the limits of modesty.

When any Person comes to die, the nearest Friends and Allies, Their Funerals do bath the Corps; and then adorned with Bracelets and Ear-rings, and wrapt in fine cloaths, is carried in a Mat to the place of burial. But the Funeral Rites of Persons of the highest rank are performed with greater pomp; for when one of such Quality dies, he is also bath­ed after that manner as we have already said; which done they shave him, and if it be a Woman put a hood upon her head, and adorn her with precious ornaments. Then come in the nearest Kin­dred, as Father, Mother and others of the Consanguinity, with Wo­men, Children and Slaves, to bewail the Dead, making a lamentable howling and yelling, the tears trickling down the Cheeks. Others begin by way of Elogy to recite the Prayses of the deceased Party, and o­thers to beat Drums, the rest fall a dancing. These Ceremonies ended, one of them addresses himself to the Corps, as if it were alive, Asking these, or the like Questions. Oh my dear Friend! how camest thou to die? Or, didst thou want for any thing? Hadst not thou Cattel, Gold, Silver, Steel, and other Goods enough? &c. When they have deplored the Departure of their Friend, and danc'd the whole day, they kill a Fatling or two, which is distributed among his Relations in the Evening. So long as the Corps is above ground they burn light by it; and when they are ready to interr him, they close him in a Coffin made of the Trunk of a Tree which is fitly shut up, and carried to a litle Cottage made on purpose, in the midle whereof is a Grave about 6 foot deep, here they lay him, and set by his side a Basket of Rice, a Tobacco-box, an Earth­en Pan, a Chaffin-dish; a suit of Apparrel, a Girdle, with what other things they conceive he shall have occasion for, in such a long and tedious Journey. So soon as they have done that, they roll a great stone to the door of his sepulchre, and sacrifice some beast or other to the Devil, that they may not annoy or molest him on his way to Paradice. Impious cruelty over their Children.

Of all the Idolatrous Customs that I could observe among them, there is some Nation or other that hath parity with them; But one Barbarous and inhuman Practise they have, as peculiar and proper to themselves, that is, making away of their own Children. True it is [Page 20] that in most places in India and Tartary, they make merchandise of their Children, and that by reason of their not being in a capacity of bringing them up, but never (like those of Madagascar) take away their lives. This they are induced to by an implicit Faith, being per­swaded by their Priests, that they are born upon unhappy days, and shall be subject to great misery and afflictions so long as they live; or that the Planet under which the Child is born, has some bad influence upon it; and having view'd the Palms of his hands, and his Face, make conclusion that he will be either Thief, or Parricide, &c. Upon these and the like Occasions, they deliver the Child over to a Slave, which he is to carry out of the way, and throw it into a Ditch or un­der a Thorn-hedge, where the poor Infant must either die of hun­ger, or be devoured up of Dogs, or other Beasts of Prey. Others there are among those Women, who when they are with Child if they find themselves never so litle out of order, immedia­mediately ascribe the cause to the ill Nature of the unborn Babe, and either kill it before it come into the World, or so soon as it is born bury it alive, and sometimes throw it into the Water. If a Woman slave chance to prove with Child by her Patron, and be turned away; so that she be not able to bring it up, she either strangles, or dispatches it before it come into the World: and sometimes a white Wo­man having a Child by a Negro, if she see it resemble the Father, or have curl'd hair: as also their Young-women, who make themselves prostitute for Gain, follow the like Course, but commonly murther the Infant before it be born, deeming it but a burthen to them, and a hindrance of their Profession. But besides all these inhuman Cu­stoms they have another no whit inferiour to those already said, that when the woman dies in Child-bed, the Child is thrown alive with the Mother into the Grave, saying. Better it is that the Child dies, than to be brought up by strangers. And because so many days are by them held infortunate, almost half of the Children are dispatch'd, which with other occasions already mentioned, is undoubtedly the reason that this great, happy and most fruitfull Island is not very popu­lous, where not only Polygamy is allow'd, but also such freedom given to the unmarried to satisfy their lust, and libidinous ends. Yet certain it is that there is a Stock of people among them, who are more compas­sionate with their Young, and when they presume that the Child is so [Page 21] possessed, do only cause a Slave to carry it away and hide it a while, and soon after fetch it home again: assoon as they have got it home a­gain, they Sacrifice some beast, or Fowl, or perhaps shut it up in a Hen­roost, thinking thereby to asswage and moderate the ill temper of the childs spirit, which otherwise would lead him to some unhappy end.

The Religion of the Madagascars, is hardly worth recounting, Their Religion they being wholly Strangers both to Houses of Worship, and also to Prayer. They beleeve that there is a God who hath made both Heaven and Earth, but neither adore nor serve him, yet growing old or sick, they make a kind of Confession to him. They also beleeve that there is a Devil, who is the Occasion of all evil, having the power of Life and Death in his hand, and that they must conserve a perpetual Peace with him, by Worship and Sacrifice. Besides their Opinion that there is a God and an evil Spirit, they have a third Power, which they call Dian Manans, or Lord of Wealth, at whose disposing will, they think that they are made rich and prosper in their affairs. They seem also to have some light of invisible Angels, and of the first peopling of the World, after the Creation by Adam & Eve, and the re­peopling thereof, after the great Deluge by Noah; as also some glance of a Saviour, who was made a Piaculum, for some great offence committed by all mankind in general. They have also their Fasts and Holy-days.

Circumcision is also a rite in use with them, Their Circum­cision. which they do at one certain time of the year, with great solemnity. The day before all the Friends and Acquaintance meet together, and drink Me­theglin till they grow raging mad: and then draw up upon the beating of a Drum, exercising with their Darts and An Assagay, as them­selvs call it, is a kind of dart, a­bout 5 or 6 foot long. Assagays; the Youngmen and Women all the time dancing in Masquerado, and in the Evening conclude with a luxurious Banquet, and open table for all that please to come. At night the mother takes the child to bed with her, in a little House made for that purpose, about a moneth before the day of Circumcision, by the Father and Uncles of the Child. The next morning by break of day, the Woman riseth, and baths her self, afterwards her child: which done she dresses it with Corral and Precious stones, and thereupon they fall a drumming again, after which a great silence is made, and all the Guests which are there, must withdraw, as also all such as have any thing about their body that is red; thinking that if such were present, the blood [Page 22] would not stench. Assoon as all are withdrawn, except these that are nominated to assist, the Priest takes his knife, and ties a white towel about his left legg; that done the Father and Uncles of the Child, take each of them a Child under the Arm, enter in at the West-door, and out again at the East; and so sitting down, the Priest performs the work. If it be the Son of a Slave or Bondwoman, the Prepuce is thrown away, but if otherwise, it is preserved by the Uncle of the child, who lays it up in the Yelk of an Egg, for some Inchantment, or other; these people being reputed very active Exorcists, and much inclined to Necromancy: and lastly the [...] apply a mixture of Cocks-blood and the juyce of some Herbs, t [...] the wound; which done they march home, with great Exultatio [...] and joy, and so ends the Ceremony.

Their Govern­ment and Policy.This Island is divided into many Kingdoms and Dominions, which are the Occasion of perpetual discord and warrs among the [...] Their Arms are Bows and Arrows, Javelins, and Targets, which they can use expertly well. They are for matter of courage an [...] valour second to none; but fight without any Discipline or Order breaking in with the main Battalion upon the Enemy, till the [...] grow so confused, that they cannot distinguish their own, fro [...] the contrary Party. During the time of War. They run out [...] small Companies to plunder and pillage the Towns and Cottage of their Enemies, and afterward set them on fire. When the Ma [...] is in Battel or under March, the Wife continually dances an [...] sings, and will not sleep, or eat in her own House, nor admit of the Use of any other Man, unless she be desirous to be rid o [...] her own; for they entertain this Opinion among them, That if they suffer themselves to be overcome with an intestin VVar at home▪ their Husbands must suffer for it, being ingaged in a forreign Ex­pedition; but on the contrary, if they behave themselves chastly, and dance lustily, that then their Husbands by some certain Sym­pathetical operation, will be able to vanquish all their Con­combatants.

During the time of our aboad there, we saw the King Diembr [...] several times ingaged with his Enemy, who had a more powerful [...] Army than he, his own not exceeding 7000 men. So soon as th [...] Enemy gave battel, Diembro with his Battalion ran upon him (after [Page 23] they had done with the Javelins) in a promiscuous order, every one pitching upon his man, and after a short Ingagement gave over, with the loss of some of the best on each side; although Diembro, considering the great imparity of men, had the better Success, and honour of the Camp. When the Battel was done, our party returned, with great Joy for the Day, and every one that could bring the Heads of the Champions, with whom they were particularly ingaged, laid them at the feet of the King, who either gave them a noble recompence, or honoured them with some Dignity.

They have a very quaint manner of making Peace. The manner of their Treating about Peace. The Parties inclined to adjoust their Quarrels, send first a Herald, with Presents, who desire to have communication with the Hostility, which when it is granted them, they nominate Time and Place where they may have conference, in order to bring their Discord to some amicable composure. The Messenger having performed his charge, returns to the King his Master, who gives the General order to put himself in a Posture of marching; the General in obedience thereto musters up all his Forces and sits down before some River, where the Enemy faces him on the Bank, on the other side. When both parties have made their appearance, they kill each of them a Bul­lock, take out the Liver, and roast it, and send each other a piece, which is interchangeably received and eaten in presence of the He­ralds or Legates which are sent on purpose to see that the Ceremony be effectually performed, binding themselves with a solemn Oath, and under a Curse, never to break the Truce which is agreed upon, be­tween them: and at the same time repeat some mutual Articles, as,

And afterwards utter many bitter Execrations, as, That the Liver they eat, may be their poyson if they do not faithfully hold all the Articles specified both sacred and inviolable.

CHAP. III. The Author's departure from Madagascar, Arrival at Sumatra. Four Prizes belonging to Atchin taken. The beastly Sensuality of some of the Ships-com­pany, upon a Woman. The Ship whereon the Author was, taken as Prize, and brought up to Batavia. The men plundered and their Chests broken up. The Author admitts himself into the Service of the East India Company, his Voyage to Siam. An accurate description of that Kingdom.

MAR. 1649.HAving stay'd fully 5 moneths at Madagascar, we set sail for Sumatra on the 16 of March 1649, where we arrived on the 12 of Iune then following. We came to anchor in the Bay of Sillaba where we exchanged some Commodities for Pepper and othe [...] Spices. On this Coast we took two Iunks belonging to Atchin, but all the people jump'd over board, and sav'd themselves, except one Woman, whom the Italians, ravished, the Officers not able to restrain them. The Woman after she had been thus treated by these sensual bruits (that rather than to deny their beastly appetite, made a Bawdy house of our Ship) was after much intreaties put ashoar, and delivered to her Husband, who inhumanly mangled he [...] till she died.

On the 28 we weighed anchor, and set sail for Indraepoura, tak­ing by the way, two Iunks more, loaden with Pepper, Camphi [...] and other Druggs and Spices. On the 29 we arrived at Indrapoura where we took in some necessary Provision and Refreshments, thinking by the way to meet with more small Prizes, but had no [...] our expectation.

On the 2 of July, we left Indrapoura, and so set sail for th [...] Straits of Sunda. When we had got the height of Toppers hook, w [...] met 14 Sail of Ships, belonging to the Dutch East-India company which were sent out by express order of the General, and the Council, to bring us up, whether willing, or unwilling. So soo [...] as our commander had received the Message, he returned answer That he was not under the command of the General, and tha [...] if they should assail him, he was resolved, to fight in his ow [...] defence. The Dutch commander was hereat in a doubt, and sent [...] Batavia for new Instructions. It was not long before he got an Orde [...] [Page 25] from the General, JAN. 1650. with a Ship of War to assist him in case of Opposition: and thereupon imperiously commanded him to strike, threatning to fire a whole tear of Guns in case of refusal. Capt. Maas, who seeing himself now in a great Strait, and the uneasi­ness of his Ships-folk, called together all the Officers, to con­sult the matter, when after mature deliberation they concluded it more safe to surrender themselves, and give their Masters a true account of the business, seeing they were not able to defend them­selves against such a number of Ships. This Resolution was very acceptable to the Ships-company, who since that division and uproar at Madagascar, were still at odds, The Ships surren­dred to the Dutch. continually jarring among themselves, and long'd for this, or the like opportunity. The Com­pany now made Masters of our Ships, brought them up to Bata­via, where we arrived the 12 of Iuly. Our Ships outsail'd the rest by far, we arriving at the Haven 6 or 8 hours before them; so that if we had been willing, might have left them, and made our escape by night.

On the 15 came Captain vander Meulen aboard, with an Or­der from the Heer vander Liin, then General, to take possession of the Ship. Assoon as he was aboard, went into the great Cabin, where he examin'd us one by one. All the Dutch were brought ab­aft; and afterwards committed to the Javans Corps du Garde. The Italians and other Strangers remain'd aboard, and in the mean while pillaged our Chests, and took all the money they could come at. They being now at liberty and dismissed, went every man where he best liked, the Italians mostly to Goa, or Banthem, but the Ham­burgers and others imbarqu'd themselves for Europe. Shortly after the Commander died, and by several tokens he had on his body, was supposed to be poysoned; and as some conjecture was done by those which were left aboard the Ship, when we were car­ried ashoar. After we had now lain about 14 days in prison, we delivered a Petition, desiring Inlargement; which was not only granted, but by Order of the General, all our Arrearages pay'd us to the utmost penny, and a Choice preferr'd us, Whether we would return home, or, List our selves in the Companies service: some rather chused to go home, but I, with the most part of the men, accepted of the latter. I hired myself as Sailmaker, for the [Page 26] Term of three years, at 18 Gild. per moneth.

Arrival at Siam. The King­dom of Siam de­scribed.On the 15 Ianuary, I was put aboard the Black Bear, bound for Siam, where we safely arrived, and cast anchor in the Bay.

The Kingdom of Siam lies in the most Easterly part of East India, from 7 to 8 degr. Northerly Latitude. There are many Cities, and Towns of note in it, and those very populous, among which India is the chief, being the Metropolis of India extra Gan­gem, and the city where the King has his Court and Residence. The land is very fertile, affoarding all that may serve for the de­light and sustenance of human Bodies, the Fields stored with ma­ny sorts of Cattel, the Rivers with Fish, and the Towns with Magazines of rich Merchandizes. The Inhabitants are of a tawny and yellowish complexion, and superstitious Pagans in Religion, as appears by their great Zeal, in adorning of their Temples, and strict Reverence for their Priests which are here too great and nu­merous for the Laity. Their Government is Monarchical, and the King for many ages has been absolute Sovereign, over this and the neighbouring Territories and Dominions, and that with as much Power, Grandour, and Reverence from the Subject, as any Potentate or King, under the canopy of Heaven. In short, Siam in regard of it's Fertility, Wealth, Number of Inhabitants, and subordinat Principalities, may paralel any other Empire i [...] the Universe.

Judia. Iudia, which (as we have already said) is the Imperial Tow [...] of Siam, lies about 16 degrees Northerly Latitude from the Aequ [...] tor, and is seated on one of the fairest Rivers (without doubt) in all the Eastern World, where a Ship of the greatest burthen may come up close to the Kay, to load or unload, without fear o [...] sustaining dammage.

The Ri­ver, and delight­some Countrey there about.In going from the mouth of the River upwards about 30 Leagues, we found several Inlets and swift Currents, which disgorg [...] themselves into this great and noble River, with abundance o [...] fair Orchards, pleasant and delectable Groves, an infinit number of Villages, Religious Houses, Hamlets, and other amiable Prospects; the Fields all the while casting a fragrant smell from her spicy Flowers; and the Groves affoarded a most ravishing melodie of Birds warbling their wanton strains, and chanting in the shades and thickets [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 27] whither they retired to shelter themselves from the too power­ [...]ull raies of the scorching Sun, and those answered again by the [...]oft whispering gales of the gentle Wind, and the base murmurings of the great Cataracts and Water-falls at a distance, rais'd and de­ [...]ress'd with the unconstant turnings of the Wind: all which seemed [...]o have such Harmony, that it ravish'd us as much, as ever the re­ [...]owned Thessalian Tempe could the men of old.

The Land is for the most part level, of a clay and sandy earth; [...]ew Hills appear, or any thing else seems to surmount the Horizon, [...]ve the high Towers and Pyramids, whereof we found an incre­ [...]ible number.

About 8 leagues up the River is a small City, of a triangular Plat­ [...]orm, and environed with a wall, called Bankok. In the same City [...] the Kings first Toll-or Custome-house, Custome-Houses. which they call the Canon [...]ankok, and every Ship and Junk to whomsoever they belong are [...]bliged to come to anchor there, and give in their information, upon [...]hat account they come, and from whence; as also what Men and [...]oods they have aboard. Having performed that Duty, they pay [...]eir Toll, and receive their Billet, with Letters of Conduct, to [...]o so far up as they list, till they come within a League of Iudia, [...]here the second Toll-house is, called, the Canon Bantenau; and [...]ere they are a second time bound to anchor, and exhibit their Coc­ [...]ets, which having shown, they have their liberty to go further. This [...]cond Canon, is erected only to see that the Prince have his due, [...]nd to examin whether that the Stranger be not defrauded by the commissioners of the first; and to give Licences to enter the Town, [...]nd traffique. It is also to be understood, that when any Ship is [...]utward bound, they are to pay their Toll at the Canon Bantenau. [...]hich at coming up was the second, now the first Custome-House; and are to pass an Examen at the Canon Bankok, as they did [...]efore at the other, without paying any thing, if they can manifest [...] their Cocket, that they have already paid: and this every Vessel [...]w mean soever it be, is bound to do, or in case of refusal to [...]rfeit Ship and Carga.

Siam although it have abundance of Towns, yet there are but 5 [...]at are walled, in all the Kingdom, whereof Iudia is the strong­ [...], being about 3 Fifteen making a degree, it follows that 3 Dutch miles must, be 12 En­glish land miles. or four Lea­gues at Sea. Dutch miles in circuit: The walls are con­siderably [Page 28] strong, with round Bulwarks after the old way, but [...] ter its manner very Stately and magnificent. Within the To [...] are some Thousands of Temples, Cloysters; and gilded Turre [...] which together do make a pompous show. The streets of t [...] City are very long and spatious, the Town it self surrounded w [...] a River about 2 Musquet-shot in breadth, and divides it self into streams, at that place where the King has his Court and R [...] dence. The Royal Palace is very magnificent and Costly, stron [...] walled about, and fortified, within also are very stately and no [...] Appartments, a Fabric which for Workmanship and Riches s [...] passes all that ever I have seen in India, and certainly, for [...] Power and Grandour of the Prince, Splendour of the Pala [...] immense Wealth of the Inhabitants, Fertility of the Countr [...] and Temperateness of the Climate, it is second to no place in [...] dia, if China may be excluded.

Soil and Fertility of Siam.The Soil is very good, and the Land fertile, producing yea [...] a vast increase of Rice and other Corn; It is also rich of Ca [...] as Kine, Hoggs, Buffels, Elks, Hares and Coneys, incredi [...] Flocks of Deer, which are more hunted for their Hides than O [...] cases, they reckoning That one of the Staple commodities, [...] export many Thousands yearly to Iapon, and other places of T [...] fic, so that the main Trading of the Company there to Ia [...] consists in that Merchandise. Wild-beasts are also here in g [...] abundance, as, Elephants, Rhinocerots, Leopards, Tygres, the like; as also all kinds of Fowl, both great and small, th [...] have seen in Europe, Swans and Nightingales onely excepted, wh [...] I dare not be positive whether there be any or not. Nor are Rivers, Fish. as also the Sea without good store of Fish, and that many kinds: The Sea-shore lies thick with Oisters, and Lobs [...] which are as delicate as they are plentifull. They use the Fish Trade also as in other places, and make great profit, especially a kind of Scate, that they take chiefly for the Skin, which th [...] of Iapon hold in great esteem, The great value of Scate Skins. paying sometimes at the rate 50, or 60 Ducats for one Skin, if it be choice and good; yet suc [...] the difference, that I have seen a hundred Pieces of Eight paid [...] single Skin, whilst it has been known, that a whole hundred wo [...] not yield 4. Rix-dollars. These Skins they first dry, and [...] [Page 29] [...]eat care pack them up, and so export them. There are also in [...]is River many Crocodiles, which the Siamers call Cayman, and [...]e them for Physic. Crocodi­les used for Medi­cine. There are also many venemous Creatures as [...]erpents, Adders, Scorpions and Snakes. It exuberates, besides [...]e several Products already mentioned, in Sugar, Oil, Kitchin­ [...]d Medicinal herbs, and various kinds of Fruit: and in a word [...]am is so well provided by nature of it self that the Inhabitants may [...]pply themselves with what is necessary for human Life, and Re­ [...]eation, without the means of exotic Commerce, and importa­ [...]on of forreign Commodities.

CHAP. IV. [...]he Nature and Way of living of the Siamers. Their several Trades and Pro­fession. Travail of their Merchants. Government and Politie. The great State of the Emperour, and Magnificency of his Throne: his Cavalcade, and manner of shewing himself to his People. The Riches of his Vessels, the Ele­phants served in Gold and Silver. The Wars about the white Elephant, against Ava and Pegu.

SIam, as I said before, is very populous, and the Inhabitants generally of a good and free disposition. They Negotiate [...]trongly in every kind of Merchandise, whereof they can make a pro­ [...]t, and that more especially within Land.

They are great incouragers of Art and Artists, especially the Me­ [...]hanicks, and such as they cannot well want, as House-and Ship-Carpenters, Masons, Smiths, Braziers, Founders; Turners, Plummers, Pewterers, Painters, Carvers, Gold-Smiths, Fullers, [...]awiers, Joyners, Weevers, and an infinit number of Jewellers [...]nd Lapidaries; Nor are they without their Physicians, Chirur­ [...]eons, and Lawiers, after their own manner. Here are also Ped­ [...]rs by Thousands, that travail from Town to Town, like such [...]s follow the Fairs in Europe; these have no fast dwelling, but [...]re in motion the whole year round, and sleep always in the booths which they erect wheresoever they come. Fishing and Husbandry [...]re well promoted, for every man, be he never so mean, if he have [Page 30] a fast Residence, has his Lands, either less or more, which are cultivated with all imaginable diligence, as appears by the yearly Product of Grain, which not only supplies themselves, but is al­so exported into other Countreys, as well on the main Continent, as the adjacent Islands. And so cheap is all manner of necessary Provision and sustenance, that Labourers and common Slaves wi [...] work any servile work for 3 ^d a Day.

Every City has a Praetor, or Deputy, who derives his power from the King, and with a Council of Assistance is to determin [...] of all Matters and Affairs, as well Civil as Criminal. The same Praetor, or Vice-roy has also charge over the Imperial Revenues Tolls, and Customs, to see that they be payd without defrauding of the King, and that the Sub-commissioners of the said Dutie [...] do not exact upon Forreigners, that are not acquainted with th [...] Rates imposed upon their Goods. This Officer, as also ever [...] Officer of State, is only to continue three years in one place, an [...] at the expiration of that term, is either removed to a place of gre [...] ter Trust and Eminency, or has his Discharge sent him. The Suits at Law are presently brought to an end, and Sentence pass [...] according to equity, without regard to the Degree and Quality the Parties; the Client first going to a Notary, and has his ca [...] fairly stated, which then is brought to an Advocate, who is [...] discuss and comment it before the Praetor, as in most places [...] Europe: with this difference only, that the Advocate or Attorne [...] has the power to continue or give over the Suit, as he thinks f [...] which is ordained to prevent taedious Appeals, and perpetua [...] clamours at Court. Criminal Affairs are punished severely enough especially, Malefac­tors se­verely punished. Treason and Murther, nor do they dispence with an [...] places of Refuge, or Sanctuary, for the Perpetratours of suc [...] enormous Crimes.

There is no Potentate in the East may paralel this Emperour fo [...] Magnificence and Pomp. He never sets his foot upon the Earth, bu [...] is carried on a Throne of Gold, from place to place; and usuall [...] appears once a day before his Peers and Grandees, which alway [...] attend the Court: these show him all imaginable Reverence, an [...] ascribe him such honour as accrews to no Mortal. When any desire to speak with him, so soon as he gets admission, presents himsel [...] [Page 31] upon his knees, his hands folded, and his countenance cast to the Ground; then bowing of his body and kissing the Earth, he begins his Harangue, which is alwaies done with a submissive voice, and at the end of every Sentence, rehearses his Title, JAOUA TJAUW PERRE BOEDE TJAUW JAOUA, which by an Idiotism of our own, is King of Kings, and Lord of Lords. Stately Throne of the King. His supreme Throne is of massive Gold, made after the form of a Pyramid, and so contrived that none can see him ascend. On each side of the Throne stand se­veral Statues, and Creatures of monstrous shapes; as is recorded of the Judgment-seat of Solomon, which was guarded with Lions. His Person is secured with a very noble Guard, and well arm'd; several Elephants alwaies ready in the inner court of the Pallace also, for his Pleasure and Service upon occasion; these are mounted with Trap­pings of rich Silk, fimbriated and imbossed with Gold, and pre­cious Stones.

When he goes abroad to visit his Pagods and Religious Houses, or to take his Divertisement (which is ordinarily twice or thrice every year) he is attended with an infinit Retinue of Grandees, and Officers at Court, as also all his Wives and Concubines, which are very numerous, all mounted upon Elephants. When this Set­ting forth is not performed with a Cavalcade, but by Water; there are a certain number of Praws, brought up close to the Pallace. These are almost like a Barge, but far greater, having 20 or 30 Oars a piece, with 5 men to an Oar; without they are richly gil­ded and charged with Festons and Foliages on a diapered ground. Others there are less noble and rich, which serve only to transport the Soldatesque, and aboard every Praw are several that play upon Wind Instruments and Drums, which make a confused noyse; Upon the hearing of this, every one, whether Citizen or Peasant, Free­man or Slave, Young or Old, is injoyned to come forth and fall prostrate, with all imaginable Reverence, upon very severe Penal­ties, according to the Quality and Discretion of the Party. This Injunction is observed very strictly, and certain Officers ordained [...]o take notice of the Delinquents, whose Rule is Arbitrary, and Mesures sudden; they are so correct in punishing such that few escape; I my self having seen, while I was there, some two or three beheaded with a Scimitar, only for being too remiss, in doing [Page 32] Worship; although in such as want Discretion, or otherwise unable to perform the Ceremony, through invalidity of Body or Mind, the Offence is either dispenced with, or expiated with some inconsi­derable Forfeiture. This Solemn Appearance happening so rarely and that with such Majestie, creates great Loyalty and veneratio [...] in the heart of the Subjects for their Prince: and surely the conclusio [...] and effect of every Maxim in Politic Affairs is the securest Index; o [...] Distinction from a Contrary, which almost all the Kingdoms an [...] Dominions of the East affoard an Example of, and more notedly th [...] Sophy of Persia, who when with a huge Retinue he makes a Cav [...] cade (which might seem to be for no other end than to be seen) no [...] dare presume to appear in the street, upon pain of Death; of whi [...] more hereafter.

Great plenty of Gold.Gold is here in such plenty that not only Plates, Chargers, Go [...] lets, Bowls, Basons, Lavers, and whatsoever els is usefull [...] the Kings Table, is all of solid Gold, but also greater vessels in t [...] Kitchin; which had I not seen them my self, should have held incredible, The Ele­phants served in Gold and Silver. if the weight and greatness had truly been report [...] But what is yet more, the white Elephant, with the rest (wh [...] are about 6 or 8 in Number) kept within the Palace, are serv'd Gold and Silver. The Gallantry of the Court, and the gorge [...] attire of the Courtiers, is unspeakeably rich. And to be brief I should repeat the Maiesty of that Prince in Power and Comm [...] The profuse Emulation of the Courtiers in Embroydery, Je [...] and other costly Ornaments, and the Magnificent Structure of Palace and other stately Fabrics; I should either prove too weak the performance of such a Province, or, hazard my reputation giving a Narrative of the Pomp which I have in reality beheld, such as have not seen it, who would in all probability be too t [...] rous to take things of that nature upon Credit. This I shall o [...] add, that rather than to be undeservedly tax'd with hyperbeliz [...] Froth, I'le content my self with a recommendation thereo [...] other modest Gentlemen that have been there, and published t [...] Journals for the public perusal of the Curious in general.

Of their Wars.The present King of Siam, has lived in great peace and [...]quillity, ever since he first sway'd the Scepter: But in the tim [...] the late King, that nation has been deeply ingaged in fom [...] [Page 33] troubles: Specially with Pegu, Ava and Langjander, partly out of the ambitious minds of those Princes, and partly out of a sordid covetousness; as of the king of Pegu, who indeavoured to make himself Master of the white Elephant, which he of Siam had: Quic­quid de­lirant re­ges, ple­ctuntur Achivi. but after the depopulation of the countreys, and loss of many thousand Souls, they made Peace upon strict Articles.

In the year 1648, the King of Ava with the assistance of a neigh­bouring Potentate, invaded part of Siam, and took in some open Villages, and Towns of smaller note; but the king of Siam coming to have notice of this sudden Expedition, levies an Army of 200000 men, or upwards, marching himself at the head in Person; and encamped about 2 English Miles from the Enemy, where without either Battel or Skirmish they lay for 3 Moneths, when the Enemy not finding himself able to continue longer in camp, for want of Provision, and Recruits of men, was fain to break up; and march homewards. Those of Patany had sent Ten Thousand men, all well disciplin'd and arm'd, for Auxiliaries in the Service of the king of Siam; but those arrived too late, the King being just upon his March for Iudia; where about 20 days after, he was Solemnly fetch'd in by his Nobles with great Triumph and Joy, as if he had obtained some notable Vi­ctory: and certainly it was the most prudent course he could have taken, to spare his own people, by shunning the Blood-shed of so many innocent souls, vanquishing the Hostility by the restraint of his Arms; and in making himself formidable with the greatness of his Battalions. There was also a Navy of Twenty Thousand Praws, pressed for the behoof of the Army, to transport the Baggage and Provision; and besides the standing Militia and Voluntairs, 52000 Citizens press'd for this Expedition, whom the King allowed Rice for Victualling, the rest they were to take care for themselves. The Mandate was no sooner out, but this Body was completed, which gave occasion of wonder, to some, when they observed the rea­diness and obedience of those Pagans to their lawfull Soveraign. The weapons used then for that Dispatch, were mostly fire-arms, and about 20 Pieces of Ordnance, which were committed to the charge of 2 expert Gunners; besides 5 Thousand Elephants, and 2 Thousand Horse; those that were mounted on Elephants were armed with Bows, Arrows and Darts, and the Cavalry with Fire-locks, Sci­matars [Page 34] and Bucklers, which Armory is alwaies ready for use in the Kings Repository. As for Powder they are never at a loss thro want of it, having such plenty of Salt-peter, which is the main Ingredient thereof: so that it is most certain, the Siammers are never destitute of any necessary Ammunition for War, either upon offensiv or defensiv Occasions. Nor yet second to any for true valour and courage, which is checked by a prudent Conduct, and politic Direction of their Power; and thereby the Prince, and the leading Officers of the Army, become dreadfull to the Neighbouring Potentates abroad, and awfull to the Subject at home.

CHAP. V. The Revenues and Treasury of the King of Siam. The Religious zeal of those Kings in building of Temples, and Houses for pious uses. Soldiers without pay. The great Slavery and Charges of the Citizens and Plebeians, their Obedience, and Liberality in devotion. Ample Revenues of the Spiritual. Habit and Function of their Priests. The Multitude and monstrous bigness of some of their Idols. Their Ceremonies in Worship; wherein congruous to those of the Romis [...] Religion.

Revenues of the King of Siam.THE Revenues of the King of Siam, as we have elsewhere said consist mostly in Customes, Tolls and Excise, for all expo [...] ted Wares and Commodities, besides the Fishing, and Growth [...] the Land, as Corn, Fruit, Trees, &c. There are also in the Countrey several subterrannean and fossible things, Mines of Gold an [...] Silver, Lead-and-Pewter, besides great store of Sappan-wood, [...] good as that of Brasilia, which is reputed a very rich Commodity and sent abroad both to Coromandel, Dabul, China, Iapon, and oth [...] Islands in the East. The de­vour zeal of the Kings of Siam in erecting of Pa­gods, Re­ligious Houses-and Tem­ples. When Any that is imployed in the Kings servi [...] dies, 2 Thirds of his Estate fall to the King, and the residue to th [...] Wife and Children of the deceased; or else in lieu thereof such Salary as they are contented with. The like when any Merchan [...] Stranger comes to die within the Kingdom, two Thirds of h [...] Estate are brought into the Chamber of Finances.

The King having that special mean of making the Army suppo [...] it's self, is at very litle Charges else, save what his zeal moves hi [...] [Page 35] to, in Building of Temples, Religious Houses and Towers, to the Honour of his Gods, which indeed are infinitely numerous and costly in this Countrey; the enobling of his court, with some unnecessary things tending to his own Honour, about which much money is consumed; and lastly providing of Annunition and Shipping upon occasion of War: but as we have already mentioned, Soldiers without Pay, and used as Slaves. the Solda­tesque have no Pay from the King, except a certain allowance of Rice, and what Spoil they can take from the Enemy; and these, although they goe under the Denomination of Soldiers, yet are but Slaves at best, being imployed in all servile uses, as Labou­rers, when, and where, the King commands.

The Citizens (which may be called Freemen or Proprietaries) are but half a remove from Soldiers, The Con­dition of the Citi­zens. they being obliged to main­tain and repair all the Fortifications at their own cost, and defend them in time of need. Yet notwithstanding those heavy burthens imposed on the Commonalty, in the performance whereof they are not found remiss, or tardy, they bring up above twenty Dutch Tuns, without dispute. Tun of Gold yearly, for Offerings to their Pagods, and the behoof of the Spiritual; insomuch that the Priests, with the large Offerings of the King, and Liberality of the People, grow rich and in great esteem, notwithstanding their being so numerous in this King­dom.

The King and People embrace no other Religion than barely Gentilism, which, as appears by the ruins of Monasteries and Cells every where, has been anciently professed among them. Their Ceremonies they seem to have borrowed from the Roman, or Greek Church, which they ape, as near as may be, with reservation of Paganism. They are incessantly building, repairing and adorn­ing the Temples of their Pagods, founding Cloysters, and erecting of Pyramids; wherin they spare not for money: for though they spend their whole Estates, about them, they must be gilded without, and richly hung within. Their Bonzi, or Priests, are distinguished from the Laïty by a yellow Vesture, and those again differing among themselves by certain Badges, or tokens, denoting their degrees: Their Beards, Head and Eiebrows are always shaven. Ac­cording to their Order, they may not handle Money, Marry, nor make use of Women, upon severe Penalties; for if any be taken, [Page 36] in company with a Female, he is burn'd alive, or at best banished the Kingdom during the Term of Life; and certainly if their Cod­piece were not fastned with such a heavy Padlock; the Laymens Wives and Daughters could never be secure, from that pestifer­ous rout? Tis true by their Rule they are not to handle money, yet like the Jesuits, have accumulated to themselves vast Treasures, which are accompanied with a great reverence and honour from the Commonalty, who whether they have sustenance for their Family and Children at home, will not see the Bonzi destitute of what he has a mind to, whether it be in Victuals or Apparrel. Their Function is to exhort and teach the People, for which end they have certain Lectures, four times every moon, and at tha [...] time set open the Temples, where all the people resort, and meet in due order. So soon as they have buzz'd over a few formal words, they begin a kind of Admonition, insisting upon several good works and moral vertues, but especially to be liberal to the Bonzi, or Priests, and the Pagods: How far this prevails upon them appears truly in their free-will offerings, which are indeed very conside­rable, in Gold, Silver, Garments and Meat, which the Bonzi then receive at the Offertory, promising to make some new Gods there­with, or adorn the Old.

At morning and at night they go to prayers, which they re­hearse with a loud voice, that any stranger thereto induced b [...] curiosity, may be permitted to see and hear. They go also t [...] visit the Sick, and pray for the Deceased, with great sobbings, and tokens of sorrow. When they have done Prayer they sing all together in a Chorus, in the Which are their Ghostly Langua­ges, as Arabic in the Al­ [...]oran, and La­tin att Mass. Pegu or Borneo Tongue, and that with a tolerable good Harmony; that done, they walk leisurely towards the head of the Temple, and kiss the Pagods. The Pagods are images of divers sorts of Metalls, as some of Gold, Silver and Brass others of Woodor Stone. In the Cathedral of India are twelve Pagods of a vast Bigness, sitting all cross legged, like Taylors upon a Ta­ble: the chief whereof was 13 fathom high, as he sat, being of a due Symmetry and Analogy, through all his members. This is usu­ally called by the Dutch, Den grooten Afgodt van SOES, that is, The great Idol of SOES. The rest were somewhat less than this and were placed directly one before another. The Ceremonie [...] [Page 37] which we have already said to have affinity with the Church of Rome, are, Burning of Lamps, Consecrated, or Holy-water, Au­ricular Confession, Indulgences, and Pilgrimages, under taken for themselves and others, whereby they are of opinion that they me­rit much, One of them would (if I had given my Consent) have gone on a long and tedious Pilgrimage for me. They have some special kindness for the Hollanders, in that they allow Liberty of Conscience, and revile not their For that were not consi­stent with Money catching in those Countreys, where they could never yet finger it by Violence and Tyranny. Gods, as do the Mahumetans, for which reason the Opinion of that grand Impostor, could never get footing in this Kingdom.

CHAP. VI. Good materials for building in Siam. Their manner of House-keeping, and enter­tainment of Friends. Neatness and cleanliness in their Houses and Bodies. Their way of dressing themselves, both men and Women. Strange Contracts of matri­mony. Early marriage. Education of their Children. Learning and learned men had in great veneration. Rites about their deceased. Ʋrbanity in their Con­versation. The great Affection of the Emperour towards Strangers &c.

SIam has of it self whatsoever is requisite in building either for Hou­ses or Shipping: they neither want Lime, Stone, Lead, Iron, Good Mate­rials for building in Siam. nor Wood, or whatsoever else is necessary. Yet notwithstanding Stone be here in plenty enough, yet they build their Dwelling-houses mostly of Wood, and reserve Stone for the use of their Pagods, Temples, Pyramids, Fortifications and other Public Edifices. Their Houses they cover with Tiles, and within have several Appartments, House­keeping and en­tertain­ment of Friends. as we have in Europe. They use not many moveables in their Houses neither use they Benches, Stools, or Tables. Their Floors are all spread with Matts which they use for cleanliness, and upon these they sit down. But if a person of Eminency comes to visit them they honour him with another Matt, or else an Arabian Carpet, which is of excellent­ly well wrought Tapestry. When he is set, they give him Fair-water in Gold or Silver Goblets, and a As Cof­fee in the Lev [...]nt, or Choco­late in Spain. Siery Pinang, which is the chief thing wherewith they caress their Friends. They are very nice and curious about their Vessels in the Kitchin and Dishes, which for the [Page 38] most part are of brass, and of a neat fashion, but generally cha [...] They are also very cleanly in their Chamber, and surpass any oth [...] people that I have seen, Cleanly in their Cham­bers and about their Bo­dies. either before or since. They keep their b [...] dies cleaner than the Turks themselves, and bath themselves of [...] than they eat, which is not only their Head, Hands and Feet, [...] was the Custome of the Talmudists, and those under the Levit [...] Law, but all over: which being done, they anoint themselves w [...] perfumed Confectures, made of fragrant Spices, and Herbs. Some them I have known use an Oyntment made of Xylaloës, or, wood Aloës, Sandal, Musk, and Ambergreece, tempered with R [...] water, which besides the delectable odour it renders, is a g [...] Preservative against epidemical and pestilential Airs.

Men how attired when a broad.Whensoever their Devotion moves them to go and visit t [...] Friends, or the Pagods, which they frequently adore, they b [...] and anoint themselves after this wise, and afterwards, attire th [...] selves in a Garb peculiar to such Solemnities: the Men have all t [...] fingers loaden with gold Rings, as many as they can well pu [...] without hindring the due use of their Joynts, and a long Co [...] Robe, or Cassock, of divers colours either so woven, or [...] ted; which appears very gorgeously: this is their Habit from middle downward; under that they wear a Shirt of very fine Lin [...] or Cotton, of red, white, or other colours: above the middle a kin [...] Surplice, with wide sleeves (like the Gown of a Batchlour of in our Universities) Head, Hands and Feet are all bare.

Women how at­tired.The Women have their hair tied up in a round ball, on the c [...] of the head, fastned with a golden Bodkin, 5 or 6 inches long their Ears they hang Pendants of Gold about a finger long, w [...] are fastned to the Tips of their Ears, by great wide holes, b [...] when they are Young, the head where they fasten the Penda [...] set with Precious stones, as Ruby, Diamond, Amethist, Emeral [...] Pearls. Besides the Rings, which are also set with Diamonds other Stones, and sometimes plain, they wear others about t [...] arms, which are massie and ponderous. They wear also a long Ve [...] of 7 or 8 foot long, and 6 or 7 broad, painted of divers colo [...] being fastned with a Surcingle about 16 foot long, wound ro [...] their body, which is neatly embroidered with Gold; From middle upward they have nothing but a Cotton-cloth, or a Sca [...] [Page 39] coloured Silk which they throw about their shoulders to cover their breasts. To be brief the Habit of Men and Women, as well as Children, is as costly as gaudy, and their Persons of a very hand­som stature, but rather with the shortest; so that with the stateliness of attire, and comeliness of bodie, they present better than those of China or Iapon. When they walk the streets, they are attended with a retinue of Slaves conformable to their Rank and Abilitie, which are also in gentile habit.

The Siammers, although Pagans, have a sacred veneration for Matrimony, and are generally very chast; Marria­ges the Siam­mers. Yet they do not esteem it a dishonour or shame to be Adulterers. Whoredom is in some re­gard dispenced with (or at least connived at) nevertheless they are not much inclined to Venery, but content themselves with such as they are ingaged to by Wedlock: and in their honest demeanor towards their lawfull Consorts (of whether sex it be meant) may convince most of us, that profess the Faith of Christ: The conjugal Love of Man and Wife is so mutually observed on both sides, and the [...]ilial Duty of Children towards their Parents, so reciprocally [...]d, that some who pretend to a more than natural Light, need not to reckon those too mean a praecedent for Morality. The parents are ve­ry carefull to educate their children, when they are young, and the children diligent in nourishing and providing for their parents, when they are grown aged, and unable to help themselves.

A Batchlour desirous to marry, and consequently having settled his thoughts upon a Maid, must address himself (or send some friend) to the Father of the party, or having none, to her Guardian, and not the Maid her self, with whom they may not converse; and these are to treat together upon the matter. But it is more usual, that the Parents of both the parties make the Overture, among themselves. They have no respect to Consanguinity or Affinity, but marry sometimes with the nearest relations they have, Brother and Sister only excluded, unless they have different Mothers. But to strangers they rarely mar­ry, although it were to a Family of a better rank or Fortune. They look much after Wealth and Beauty, but not so much after vertuous Inclinations, as we do; neither are they prone to be led aside with affability, or flattery, as sometimes happens among us, which tends frequently to a future discontent and irrevocable cala­mity. [Page 40] Now as the Parents alwaies make up the Marriage, s [...] the young couple may not of themselves dissolve it; and the bet­ter to avoid any dissatisfaction, which may arise from the dislik [...] that the one may have of the other, they are generally marrie [...] before they come to maturity, when they are not capable of judg­ing, as at 10 years of age. I have seen a Couple married, th [...] man at 12 and the Woman not fully 9. Another couple I hav [...] known, who had 2 Children, and both their ages could not mak [...] up 25 years. Polyga­my. Polygamy is here allowed, for every man may marr [...] so many Wives, as he lists, unless he be under some particus [...] obligation to the contrary. They are sometimes divorced for sleder reasons, but alwaies when they cannot procreate Children and being seperate they may severally marry again. Their M [...] riages are not confirmed by the Spiritual, but Temporal Magistra [...] yet always the Priest, must be present to do Sacrifice on beha [...] both the Parties, They are very punctual in observing all the A [...] ticles specified in the Covenant of Matrimony, without the c [...] stringency of the Law. They regulate themselves in Hous-ke [...] ing, Education of their Children and the like, mostly after Law of Nature, without restraint or compulsion. Their Child [...] are very flexible and obedient, without beating or other sev [...] chastisement. When they are young their Parents commit the to the Bonzi, who instruct them in all Sciences and good manne [...] as also mechanical Professions and Trades, whereby they afte [...] wards get their living: Learning and Lear­ned men in great esteem. Although most of them desire rather [...] stick to their studies, and so embrace the Function of Priest-hoo [...] such being among them esteemed honorable, that have any tinct [...] of Learning.

The dead burned to Ashes.Their Dead they bury not, but, after the manner of the o [...] Romans, burn them; which is celebrated with great pomp, and e [...] pences, proportionable to the merits or abilitie of the Partie. T [...] Ashes they conserve in an Urn, which they inclose in a Pyram [...] erected to the Memory of the Deceased: others out of Zeal ca [...] Churches and Monasteries to be built; or bequeath large Re [...] nues to the Pagods and Bonzi: nay, there is hardly a Slave amo [...] them but gives something for Religious uses, or perhaps all t [...] he was master of; and upon these occasions they are burned at [...] [Page 41] charges of the Convent. Those that die of any disease which they repute unclean as Small-pox, Feavers, &c. are not burned, but either thrown into a River with a stone about their neck, or gi­ven to the Beasts of prey. The same they do with Children, if they come to die before a certain age, for that they say, That for want of discretion they could not rightly Worship their Deïty, and con­sequently do not deserve an Urn.

They are of a very liberal nature, and civil to converse withall, Urbanty in their conversa­tion. but especially to Strangers. English, Portugueezes, Hollanders, and Moors, without respect to their Profession, have liberal access to en­ter, inhabit and traffic in the Land, by order of the King; and enjoy as much Liberty, and benefit of the Law, as his own na­tural subjects; which draws abundance of Forreigners, from all Countreys, who come thither, either upon the account of Com­merce, or to seek Protection. This concurrency of so many seve­ral sorts of People doth not only daily teach new Politie, but ren­ders the Prince formidable to his neigbouring Potentates, who know his Kingdom to be so populous and the people so deeply ingaged to their Sovereign.

The Crown is successiv, The Crown heredita­ry. yet during the minority of the Heir (which is at 15 years) the Uncle, or some Guardian nominated by the King, takes place as Administrator: By this Praecedent also are all the Officers in the Kingdom regulated, that are suc­cessiv.

CHAP. VIII. The Sieur van Muyden invited to the Exequies of the Princess. A stately Scaf­fold erected for the Solemnity of the day. A magnificent and sumptuous Altar Ornaments of the Corps. The Train attending the Ceremony: Order of the same. Money thrown among the People. Stages erected for the Almosners. Artificial Fireworks. The vast Charges of this Preparation.

ON the 23 of February, the Sieur van Muyden, Consul for the Company, was sent for, by two Interpreters, February 1650. to wait upon the King; who invited him to attend the Ceremony of burning the Corps of his sole legitimat Daughter. I went my self also [Page 42] to see the Exequies performed, FEBR. 1650. but by the remissness of the Messen­gers, came too late to see the Train; for the Corps was brought to the place, before we got thither; but yet came in time enough to get to the stage, which was erected for us. On the middle of the Para­de before the pallace, were erected 5 Towers; upon each Tower a poll, that which stood in the middest was 30 fathom high, the other 4 that stood in a quadrangular form, each 20 fathom. The Fabric of those Towers was very artificial: Round about under the Architraves, they were neatly painted with Foliage, rais'd with Gold, and depress'd with Umber and burn'd Ivory. On the Stylobat were carved Heads of Leopards, Tygres and Panthers. Under the Projecture, Supporters in antic-work, and emblematical to that occasion; the Scima, or Cornish with close Leaves suitable to the Phris [...] and Architrave, but could not at the distance I was at, perceive whether it was carv'd or painted. Within the great Tower which stood in the midle, was a very costly Altar, covered with Gold, and set with Sapphirs and other stones, being about 6 foot high from the Ground. Upon this Altar was the Corps of the Young Lady laid, after it had lay imbalmed about 6 Moneths within the Pallace The Body was attired in a Royal Garb, with Gold chains, Bracelet and Collars of Gold, and fastned with Diamonds. She was set in a Co [...] fin of solid Gold, in which she sate upright, with her Hands co [...] joyned, and her face looking upwards: upon her head was a Crow [...] of Gold, very richly set with stones. Then came all the Mandori [...] or, Grandees of the Nation, with their Ladies, attired in White, with­out any ornament, for White is their Mourning colour; they feigne [...] themselves sorrowfull for the Dead, and passing by strow'd th [...] Corps, with Flowers and odorous Waters. When these Ceremonies were done, the Corps was brought out of the Tower, and set upo [...] a Chariot of Triumph, richly gilded, and shown to the Grandees [...] the Empire, whereupon all the Ladies began to weep aloud, whic [...] was not altogether real, but feigned; every one aemulating to sho [...] a greater appearance of Sorrow than the rest; which was with suc [...] earnestness, that it might have been heard all through the Tow [...] After the Chariot had stood there about 2 short hours, it was r [...] moved to another place, where the Body was to be burned; and w [...] followed by the Mandorins, and their Ladies, who went softly afte [...] [Page 43] In the first rank went the Kings eldest son, aged about twenty Years, who was only brother to the Deceased, and was mounted upon a Young Elephant all in White: next him were two brethren of his, by another Queen, mounted also upon Elephants, on each side one: each of these had a long silk Scarf fastned to the Herse, in their hand. On each side the Herse were 14 of the Kings Sons, with green twigs of palm in their Hands, who all the time went in a heavy po­sture, their eies dejected to the Ground, framing a sad Countenance, and uttering many sighs and expressions of Sorrow. On each side of the way, by which the Herse must pass (that was about 6 foot broad) were erected several stages, for the Mandorins of a meaner rank. These at the passing by of the Herse, threw Oranges among the common people; in some of which were Which is a piece of Money Valuing about 2s 8d Ster­ling. Ficols, and Which is half a Ficol. Mases. this occasioned such a throng of People, that several lay under foot, and 7 Persons trodden to death. When they were come to the Altar, the Corps was taken down by the Mandorins, with Waits and Wind-Music, which made a melancholic noise; and was carried with great Solemnity to the Altar; where it was set down, and laid round with aromatic Woods, and Drugs, amongst which was poured many sorts of perfumes and odorous balsams. When this was done the Princes of the blood, and the Mandorins returned to the Kings Palace; but the Ladies were injoyned by the Emperour to remain at the Altar and bewail the Dead, for two days longer; at which time the Bodie was to be burned: and accordingly they stay'd there till the time was expired, striving, who could manifest the most sorrow; hoping so to obtain the greater favour from the Emperour. But the greatest folly I could observe among them was, that when any of them could not dissemble, or let down tears, they were whipped with thongs, by some persons, thereto appointed, till they wept indeed; and this was duly executed without having regard to their Persons. Near those Towers, was erected a stage, Presenic sent the Bonzi, for their good Ser­vice in praying for the Soul of the de­ceased. covered with thick gilded paper, whereupon sate the Chief of the Bonzi, and a litle lower sat the Priests of a lower degree and rank, of which there was a great number; these (like those under the Hierarchy of Rome) were imployed to pour forth praiers for the Soul of the Decea­sed. Which when they had done by order of the King, there were several Gifts sent them which for the most part, consisted in Ap­parrel, [Page 44] House-furniture and mechanical Implements, of every sort. At the going down of the Sun there were several Fire-works play'd off, which issued out of Twenty Turrets, covered with gil­ded paper. All these preparations, besides what was that day given to the Bonzi, and distributed among the poor, according to the relation given to the Heer van Muyden, by the Kings Agent, a­mounted to 5000 Catti of Siam Silver, which is about 66000 pound Sterl. besides the Images that were bestowed on the chief Tem­ple, whereof two were of Gold, about 4 foot high, which also amounted to a great sum: for what Gold, Jewels, or other Gifts were in her life time presented her, by the King, or Mandorins, were expended upon these exequial Rites.

CHAP. IX. The Body of the Princess burnt. A remarkable token, whereby, it was concluded that she was poysoned. The Kings fury against all the Domestics of the Princess, who are committed to custody. The cruel Punishment of the suspected Parties. A strange wa [...] to find out the guilty. Elephants used as Executioners. Fifty men and Women executed in one day, some by Elephants, others buried in the Earth, to the Head, where they are suffered to starve. A Young Lady with her Brother taken and dispat­ched. Their Candour, and free resolvedness to die.

TWo days after the Corps were brought forth, the King went himself in person, and gave fire to the wood with a Torch, which was done with great Solemnity, and Music of all sorts, that all the time play'd very dolefull Airs. The Chest of Gold, together with all the Costly Ornaments, wherewith she was attired, when she lay in state, were burn'd with the Corps, and reduced to dust.

An odd Passage.We may not ommit to relate a very remarkable passage which hap­pened about these Exequies; for when the King went to gather up the Ashes, which were to be put in a golden Urn, he found a piece of Flesh, about the bulk of a Young childs head, fresh and uncon­sumed. This seeing, he was mainly altered, and turning about to one of the Magi who stood at his left hand, Asked him; What his opinion was? and, What might be the reason that this gobbet of [Page 45] flesh remained unburn'd. The Sage judging it to be done by some Enchantment, durst not declare his opinion about it; but to satisfy the King, replied, That his Majesty could not but be sensible of the Cause, since nothing could ly occult from his searching Wisdom: the more in regard it was a thing so palpable and open. The King by the Saying of this Parasite, concluded with himself that she had been poysoned, cries out with great raging, At length I have disco­vered the certainty of what I ever had in suspicion: My Daughter is without doubt poysoned. Upon that in great discontent he went into his Mourning appartment whence he issued an Order for the sudden Apprehension of all the Ladies, that attended the Princess in her Life time, who were in obedience to his Royal Will immediately secured.

On the day following divers others of the greatest rank were siezed and committed to Custody, who were wont to converse with the Princess, although they had not been in her presence for the space of a whole year.

Shortly after it was my fortune to be Spectator to such a cruel Tra­gedy as ever I have seen elsewhere. The King being now possessed wthi Jealousy, and suspecting several to be factious in the matter, yet could not find out any certainty in the thing; he therefore to sift it out, who [...]hose should be that were concerned in the deed, practised this cruel Stratagem and impious way of Trial. The king sent a Messenger to [...]ummon up some of the chief Nobility in the land to Court, where being come to give attendance, were shut up in Prison, till the Prison would not hold any more, so that he was fain to find a new place, where to committ those unhappy Gentlemen. When the principal Officers and Courtiers were taken into Security. The king not contented so, [...]ent also for their Wives, and several Young Ladies, who were known [...]o be familiar with the Princess some time before her death: these were part, that they might not have the benefit of Communication. [...]lso secured in a place When the Emperour had as many Persons in Custody, as he, or others that advised him suspected, he gave order to [...]ake several Pitts in the ground about 20 foot square, one near another; which the Soldiers were commanded to fill with Charcoal, kindle and [...]low it up with long Fans, such as the Slaves in Siam do fan their Lords [...]nd Ladies with. When all was performed according to the Com­ [...]andment of the king, they brought forth some of those Personages [Page 46] that were impeached with their hands tied behind their backs b [...] all the time guarded with a Body of Soldiers: and being come to [...] place, they stript them naked and put their feet in warm Water, make them tender; after that, the Soldiers paired of the skin v [...] ­razours. Afterwards they were brought before certain Officers, [...] minated by the King as Examinators for that day, and were assist [...] by the chief of the Bonzi, who insisted upon them to confess the Fa [...] but upon their stedfast denial, had the Which is a kind of Curse like that in the Le­vitical Law, when the Womanis to drink the wa­ter of Jealousy Rigoloza pronounced agai [...] them, and so transmitted to the Tormenters, who were forced [...] run over the hot coals without their natural Shoes. So soon as th [...] were come through the fire their feet were visited; and if they v [...] blistered, it was concluded by the Bonzi, that they were guilty, [...] so led away to the place appointed for them to be kept in, till all [...] supposed Criminals were turn'd through the Furnace: but when t [...] Officers had don their visits as they were injoyned, they found [...] but what were blistered, and consequently condemned as g [...] some there were on whom this impious Test was imposed, t [...] indeed with a strong resolution ran through, without receiving m [...] damage: yet many there were who fell down flat in the middle of [...] Fire, where they expired their last, for (as we were afterward [...] form'd) there was a strict charge given, as well to the Spectator [...] Officers, not to reach forth their hand to pull any person out, up [...] pain of Death. A Scaene (I must confess) so sad as I have never see [...] yet, and hope I never shall. That Perillus was thrown into the bra [...] Bull, which he had presented to the Tyrant Phalaris, to punish s [...] as he was offended with, had good colour of Justice; but tha [...] many in innocency should be massacred upon bare supicion, [...] that with such unheard-of Cruelty, is in no wise justifiable. It [...] spectacle dismal enough, none can deny, to see a Ship rent up [...] the Rocks; and the distressed marriners Swimming upon masts [...] planks, to save their lives; but yet harder to see so many rare P [...] nages burnt alive, and fried in their own blood: for that is fro [...] Divine hand, to which we ow our very Lives and Being: but t [...] the effects of a wretched Tyranny from our fellow-creatures, w [...] Justice it self had nothing to demand.

Every person who had past this horrid Purgatory, and by the af [...] said rule convicted, was led aside, and by the Soldiers made [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 47] [...]o a pale: which done the Elephants were brought forth. Now the Reader must understand that at Syam they have no other Execu­ [...]ioners, on the score of Death, than Elephants. Ele­phants the Exe­cutioners in Siam. When the great Elephant was brought, and viewed the Condemned party, went twice or thrice round about him and at last took him up with his Trunk, pale and all, and toss'd him aloft into the Air, and catch'd him at coming down upon his teeth, which struck quite through his body, afterwards throwing him off, trampled him under his feet till his Gutts burst out, and trode his body flat to the ground. When the Elephant had dispatched, the Soldiers draggd the Car­ [...]ases to the River, which made the way slippery with blood. On this manner were the greatest part executed; but others were [...]rought to the path, which leads to the City, and there put in [...]oles, digged in the Earth on purpose, where they were closed [...]p, to the neck, and every one that passed by, was to fulfill [...]he Emperours pleasure. ( forsooth) commanded to spit upon them; [...]o which order I was fain to submit my self, being to pass by that [...]ay, so that I could not avoid it. These were to remain there [...]o till they died, and none daring to give them any thing to eat [...] drink. It was lamentable to hear them cry out to every one that [...]assed by to dispatch 'em; but the Officers kept so strict an eie [...]at none durst move his hand. Four moneths long dured this [...]orrible Massacre, and every day a great number put to death: on [...]ne day I have seen 50, and the like number on a forenoon. The general number of all that died was by some reckoned to be [...]oo Souls, by others almost 300 more; and certainly few had [...]caped if they had not absented themselves from Court during the [...]placable fury of the King.

This may seem to be a mean reason, for so great a piece of Ty­ [...]nny, but it was well known afterwards that the King had for­ [...]erly a design to cut of the chief of the Mandarins, of whom he [...]mself began to stand in aw, and therefore took an opportunity [...]o do it under this specious pretence: and the better to effect it with­ [...]ut mutiny or rebellion, he had newly levied an Army of 250000 [...]en, and made as if he would denounce war against China.

On the 28 of Febr. were 300 of the Domestics of the late Prin­ [...]ess brought to the place of Execution, who were also led through the [Page 48] fire; but having passed through, were (I know not for wh [...] reason) set at liberty. Shortly after was the Youngest daughter o [...] the late King with all her Houshold, committed to Custody: and th [...] king as it appeared had a great suspicion of her, the more when [...] was informed that whilest other Ladies at Court, were be wailin [...] the Dead, she could hardly all the time restrain her self from laughing: but what made the Matter have a better hue, was, her co [...] plaining to the king how that her daughter (who was also the king Child) was had in contempt; and his eldest Daughter, in her [...] time promoted to great honour.

MAR. 1650On the first of March, was the said Princess brought fo [...] and a great number of Ladies; who were all led through the F [...] but (according to common fame) none but the Princess [...] blistered on the feet. Hereupon she was secured with Silver Fe [...] and brought into a Dungeon, where none was permitted to [...] Communication with her.

The next day the said Princess was brought forth again into Palace, where the Mandorins were assembled in the Auditory soon as they began to make inquisition, upon threatning to pu [...] to torment, if she would not make an ample discovery of the Tr [...] she, whether out of Fear, or Glory, is uncertain, uttered these Wo [...] or to the same effect, If the King will promise upon his Royal word; [...] so soon as I have exhibited the Cause of his Daughters death, he will sp [...] execute me, without making, me a mocking-stock to the World, I w [...] promise upon the Honour of a dying Princess, to manifest the whole without further trouble. Upon that liberal saying, several of the Mandarins then present, who had a great honour for her R [...] Father, were moved to pity; and 'twas thought, that they w [...] have interceded to the King for pardon for her, if the present of the King had not kept them in stricter aw. However after fairest manner they could made report to the King; who promis [...] grant her request, and sent the Mandorins back, to take her into fu [...] examination. Being returned, they brought her the result o [...] Petition, and willed her to confess the Cause and Circumstan [...] whereupon she declared in presence of them all, That she with Help of her Nurse were both guilty of the Fact, and that they had used ce [...] exorcisms therein, which was the reason, that that flesh was not combus [...] [Page 49] as the rest. She added further, That her ignominious death did not concern her so much, as that her just Design should have no better issue; whereby the small remainder of her Stock should be reduced to their pristin state, and free'd from the Slavery of so fierce a Tyrant. When she was further examined in some circumstantial things, She protested that it was not provided for the innocent Princess, but for the King himself. So soon as Re­port was made to the King how she had made a liberal Confession, and what it was, he commanded instantly that an Executioner should be sent for; who being come, he gave him order to cut a gobbet of flesh out of her Body, and force her to eat it. When the Executio­ner went to fullfil the Kings command; the Lady suffered the flesh to be tore out with wonderfull patience; but when he tendred it her to eat, she refused, crying out, O wretched Tyrant, thou mayst be my Executioner, but thou canst not conquer my noble mind. Know, that I defy thy Cruelty; and that the end of thy Sham- poyson will speedily come, when the remaining Vertue of my Royal Race shall avenge themselves of thee, and thy Tygre-brood. With these and the like words she reviled the King, till by a second Charge sent to the Executioner from the Palace, she was hackt in pieces, and thrown into the River.

The same day her only brother, aged 20 years, was brought to the place of Execution, who during all these showers of Cruelty, had feigned himself distraught, by which means, they told us he was excused.

But whether he was guilty or not, it appeared so soon as he was mounted the stage, that he had his Witts about him: for he behaved himself with such candour and modesty, that some of the Mandarins could not forbear tears; and with a bitter Harangue so reviled the [...]ing, and vindicated himself for what he suffered, that the Plebeïans were almost moved to an Insurrection; declaring himself more sor­rowful for the fruitless attempt of his sister, than his own Death. So soon as he saw the Executioner come to him, he cried out, Inno­cent indeed I am, as was my Sister, but now Thou inhuman Tyrant, it is thy will it should be so, I scorn, although I were sure of enjoyment, to de­sire thy pardon; that thou shouldst not hope for the lest pity from the Hands of them that shall revenge my Blood in after times. With these and the like words he seemed to declare his Innocency, yet uttered some expres­sions which contradicted those Protestations, that probably were [Page 50] to only in spite of the King. MAR. 1650 Thus was the last of the former Kings race extirpated, except one Daughter, which was not capable of doing any thing against the Interest of the present King.

CHAP. X. The proud, and blasphemous Titles of the King of Siam. The great Preparations used to asswage the Waters of the Ganges.

YOu have heard by what we have related in the former Chapter, with how much power and aw, the king of Siam rules. It will further appear how well he knows it, by the proud, swelling Title he assumes to himself; two of which were presented me by a Mandar [...]n and I hope will not seem impertinent to insert here; although the Reader may be pleas'd to take notice, that the Idiom of their Tongue is so barbarous, that it will hardly bear sence, when rendred; howeve [...] we shall give it Word for Word.

The second is as as blasphemous as the first, though hardly swells so far out of Sence.

And so by this time I hope you have heard enough of a King of Ele­phants and Horses (though not a Word of his Asses) in this Instru­ment called a Title: and thereby perceive the Pride and Folly of this unpolish'd Potentate, where we shall leave him and take a walk to­wards the Ganges,

The River of Siam is a branch of the famous Ganges, The Ce­remony used to aswage the Ri­ver Gan­ges. and ebbs and [...]ws at the same time with that noble River. When it is at highest and [...]ady to fall of it self, according to it's natural Recourse at a certain time of the Year, as doth also the Nile, the King imbarks himself in a Galley which is within and without so richly Gilded, that it seems to be all of massy Gold. Within the same is a Throne of solid Gold, upon which the King sits, having a Canopy richly set with Pearls, [...]monds and other Precious Stones. About him sit the greatest of [...] Mandorins, on Chairs suitable to their Quality; and on his left hand [...]he Chief of the Bonzi, in his Hierarchical Garb. On the Galleries of this Galley, sit several Musicians; which are answered by the inferiour Mandorins and Plebeïans, who are placed all along the Banks with Musical Instruments, and Flags of an infinite number. The Imperial Galley is followed with a Retinue of some Thousands of smaller Ship­ping and Yachts. When the King is come to the place where the Ceremony is usually performed, he steps out into a Prawe, where the High Priest delivers him a golden sword upon his knees. After the repetition of some formal words, he beats the Water three times, and commands it with a God-like Authority to fall down, and so re­turns [Page 54] into the Galley: upon which all they that are on the Banks fa [...] down flat upon the ground and shout. And thus the blind People who have not the Benefit of Chronicle or Antiquity, and ignorant [...] the course of Nature, the hand-maid of God; do really take it for miracle, effected by their Pagan Sovereign.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Siam. They take a Junk. The Cambodiers put in a Ship with rudder or sails. Arrival at Formosa. The Junk and all the men cast awa [...] ▪ Description of Formosa, with an account of its Products, and the Nature of [...] Inhabitants, as also their Houses, Habit and Customes.

OUr Ship having now taken in her whole Carga, we had all o [...] to come aboard. Our Loading was most Bucks-hides, San [...]wood, and Amrack, which is a kind of Colour, used by the Iapone [...] in their Cabinet-work for Vernishing: and on the 12 of April we set S [...] directing our Course for Tojovan or Formosa.

APRIL. 1650About the Pracel banks we descried a Iunk, making toward us full Sail, having Dutch Colours aloft, which made us suspect to be a Pyrat: and thereupon our master resolved to throw s [...] Goods over-board, and put himself in a Fighting-Posture. But [...] we came nearer to the said Junk we saw that it was a Merchant- [...] and not so well man'd and mounted as we. A Junk taken, and made Prize. Coming to hail him Commander bad him come aboard and show his Pass; but he [...] answer that his Champan was in pieces and unfit to put out: whereu [...] the Commander put forth the Shallop well man'd and arm'd, to aboard him and demand his Pass, but found that he had none, b [...] a Cambodier, and loaden with contrabanded Goods, we there took him as Prize. His Loading did also mostly consist in H [...] Hides, The ten­der mer­cies of the wic­ked are cruel. Sanders and Amrak, as ours did: The men aboard her [...] mostly Cambodiers and Chineeses, which Capt. Fayer (for that was Commanders name) put all into the Champan, that notwithstand [...] their evasion was not leaky, allowing them neither Sail nor R [...] der; so that without all controversy they were lost, it being then leagues from any coast; nor could we ever hear what became of the [...]

[Page 55]On the 10 ^th. of May we arrived safely at the Island of Formosa, MAY 1650 and anchored before the Fort Zelandia, where Peter over't Water was then Governor. As we sailed in at the Bay, we were surprized with a great Wind; insomuch that the Prize we had taken ran upon a seat of Rocks, which almost conjoyn, or as it were, imbrace the Bay, like that at Rhodes, in the Levant, made by Art, on which was erected the Image of Apollo: so that these are with a gale of Wind, somewhat stiffer than ordinary almost unavoidable. The Junk broke all in pieces, and the men were all lost, save 3 Hollanders, who saved themselves upon Planks; amongst those that were lost were 7 Hollanders, the rest Chineezes, being about 20 in number.

The Island Formosa lies almost directly under the Tropic of Cancer; [...]its nombril or Center being exactly 23 degr. Northern latitude, [...]eaching in a stretch from it's southern Cape, which is in 21 degr. to the [...]weel or Northen Promontory, in 25; and is computed to be about 130 Dutch Leagues in circumference, facing the coast of Fokien and [...]ana Round about this Island are taken abundance of Fish, espe­cially Harders, which are somewhat bigger than a Haddock. This [...]ish they salt like Cod, and send it for China, where it is had in great [...]eem. The Row of this fish is also held for a great delicacy among [...] Chineezes when pickled, being red, and lies close and round in thin skin, which naturally grows about it. The Chineezes us'd here­ [...]ofore to give the Tenth Fish to the Company, for their Liberty to [...]sh on the Coasts of this Island.

Formosa is a very fruitfull Island, but lies untill'd; Fruitful­ness of Formosa the Inhabitants [...]ng for the most part a lazy People, not much unlike the Spaniards, [...]er willing to starve than work. The most fruitfull part is at present [...]der the Jurisdiction of the King of Midag. It abounds with Rice, [...]heat, Barley, Kaylang, Masquinades, as also Ginger and Sugar. [...]ere are many sorts of Trees, and Fruit in great abundance, as, O­ [...]anges, Lemmons, Citrons, Pomegranates, Guigavas, Perang, and [...]ther Fruits, not known in Europe; and some only Proper to this Isle, which I could never see either in Europe, Asia, or Affrica, as Moupellos and Crambrods. Melons, or Musk-millions, are here so plentiful and delicious; that I have been cloyed barely with looking at them when they were cut up; besides Water-milions and Pompions which are also of a very good tast and Juycy. They have besides many kinds of [Page 56] Plants and Herbs, as CABBAGE, Hartichoaks, &c. Sever [...] rich and medicinal Roots and Seeds, as Ananasses, China-Rock Potatos (not much unlike ours) Ubes, Kadiang and Fakkafocas. Kadj [...] is a litle green seed almost like that of Coriander, which they boyl an [...] pickle for a Sauce for fresh Fish; and gives it an admirable good reli [...] Fokkafokas has the Shape of a Pear, or Quince, but 3 times as big, an [...] grows near the ground like a Pompion: above it is smooth like gl [...] and below of a purple and whitish colour: this they boil with Be [...] and Pork, as we do Turnips in Holland. There are some sheep in [...] Island, Great store of Cattel. but not very many. Harts and Roes there are abundance sometimes 2 or 3 Thousand in a Flock together, Wild-goats [...] Swine which are very terrible and noxious to Travellers that go a [...] or unarm'd, some they have also tame. Beasts of Prey do much an [...] the Inhabitants that they dare not adventure themselves far with Land, as, Tygres, Leopards, Bears, &c. Apes and Monkeys t [...] have, which are generally litle. There is a certain Creature on [...] Island which the Hollanders call, Den Duyvel van TAJO [...] that is, The Devil of Formosa. Being about 2 foot long, and 5 in broad upon the back, with scales all over the body; it has four with sharp claws, a sharp long head, and a tail thick at the r [...] and smaller towards the end, like a Crocodil. This litle beast feeds [...] upon Pismires, which he catches by laying his Tongue upon a [...] where they come to feed upon a slimy matter, that runs out o [...] mouth, and that holds them so fast that they cannot get off ag [...] When he thinks that he has enough, he draws in his tongue and vours them. It cannot do any harm unless to the Ants, which a [...] natural food, but if he see a man come towards him, either runs the Earth, or rolls himself in, like a Hedghog: so that to call Devil seems a great improperty. This Great Description of a [...] Creature, we thought not altogether impertinent, because it Creature proper only to this Island. Formosa affoards all kinds of F [...] which other Islands in the East have, Vene­mous Creatures a great annoy­ance. except Parrots. And were it [...] for the great annoyance of Serpents, Scorpions, Millipedes, Lizza [...] and other vermin, it were a very delightsom Land, being in a t [...] rable good Climat, and blessed with a most wholsom Air.

As to the Frame and Stature of the Natives, we cannot give any general Description, since those vary according to the pl [...] [Page 57] they inhabit. Their men are mostly well bodied and lusty, especially those in the Valleys, and Champane Countrey; but those that keep themselves in the Hilly part of the Island, not so big of stature. Their Women are but short in Comparison of the Men, yet are staring beau­ties; having a Full face, great Eies, a flat Nose, Formo­sa Beau­ties. long Ears with breasts hanging down like a flitch of Bacon, and would have hand­som beards too, if they did not pull up the hair by the roots. The [...]ps of their ears they bore through, and screw them flat with a horn, made for the purpose, which they think stands wondrous neat. Final­ly, I hold it uncertain whether this Island has had the name Formosa, seriously from the Land it's self, or Ironically from the monstrous People that Inhabit it.

During the time that I was at Formosa, I heard often of Men with Tails: to which I never gave much heed, looking upon it as fabulous. Yet I will assure the Reader by all lawfull asseverations, that I found [...] truth. For it happened that a Formosan of the South-Countrey was apprehended for an inhuman Murther, committed upon a Clergy [...]an. After the matter was examined and the Party pronounced guil­ty, he received Sentence to be burned. The day of Execution being [...]ome; the Murtherer was brought forth, and tied to a pale; As soon as his cloaths were stript off, we saw his Tail, which was about a foot long, and all grown over with Hair; some of my acquaintance out of their curiosity, went to see him, before he was executed, having heard that he had a Tail, and learned from him, that all, or most, of the South Inhabitants had Tails. But as to the certainty of [...]hat, I can not say much, for that, not understanding his Dialect, [...]ey might be mistaken; only of this I solemnly aver that I am an [...]e-wittness to it, and would be loath, to impose it upon any man's beleef if it were not truly so.

Upon Festival days when the Formosans go to present themselves before their Idols they hang great round boards almost like Trenchers to their ears, which are artificially painted: others hang Shells full of Small holes, which loll over their breasts: but upon other days they let their ears be naked, and without any ornament at all.

Their Hair is jet-black and long: some of them wear it as we do in Europe; others tie it up above the crown of the head, after the old China fashion, or plated. Their complexion is of a Swarthy yellow, [Page 58] or between a yellow and black; but those of Kabelang look more white and pale. The Women of Midag, Soeten Nowe, and Lamea are of [...] brown-yellow complexion. They are generally of a subtile and acute witt, endued with a good memory, and tractable enough to learn any Science; but beyond all other Indians flexible to Christianity.

The Ha­bit of the Formo­sans.In the Summer-time they are attired onely with a cotton cloath, wide about the shoulders like a sheet, and tied by two Corners athwart the brest: It is also girded about the middle, and so hangs down to the calf of the leg. Their shoes, which are rarely worn among them, are made of Goat-skins, fastned above the foot with thongs. But in the Winter, they wear Garments of Furrs, as Skinns of Tyg [...]e [...] Leopards, Bears and Apes. Those of Soulang were formerly apparelled as Europeans; but all the rest as Chineezes. Before the first com­ing of the Spaniards into that Island, the Natives were all naked like as now, those that inhabit the Hill-countrey, which wear only cloth about their middle.

The Habit of the Women doth not vary much from that of the Men, only with this distinction, that their Robes are wrapped abou [...] their leggs and made fast; and sometimes an upper coat which come only to the knees: About their head they wear a black Towel knott [...] before, which looks like two Horns. Every woman has a Pig which follows her like a dog.

The Men have sometimes their back, brest, and arms painted with a kind of colour which never goes out so long as they live. Abou [...] their necks they wear Glass-beads, and Bracelets about their arm [...] Others have great iron hoops, which reach from the wrest of t [...] hand to the elbow, having such small crevises where they ope [...] that it seems a wonder how they get them put upon their arm [...] About their leggs they wear a string of white shells, neatly hung a [...] set in order, that at a small distance it would be taken for Lace.

The Men of Tokkadekol wear a long Reed, which is made fast [...] their Girdle behind, and comes bending over their head; to which they hang a Silk Pendent (or streamer) about 2 palms broad, an [...] 20 long. Upon Festival days they adorn their Heads with the feather of a Cock, and hang Bears-tails at their Leggs and arms.

They have no Trades nor Mechanicks among them, but ever [...] man among them makes what he has occasion for himself. When they [Page 59] he down to sleep, they only take two Harts hides, the one serving for a Bed, and the other for a Coverlet. They are excellent at swim­ming, and use the Bow well. But above all other faculties surpass any that ever I have seen at running; no horse being able to hold with them for a stretch of 6 or 8 leagues together: and when they run, have in each hand a tinkling instrument, with which they ever now and then hit the iron hoop about their arm, to encourage them forward.

They are wholly unskilled in Navigation, having no other Ship­ping than a sort of Canoo, that is made out of a hollow tree, with which they go a fishing. This with Hunting is all the employ they follow to sustain themselves. But Agriculture, as I said before, is but litle exercised, partly out of their slothfull inclinations, and partly out of fear of the Enemie, they being continually at Warrs amongst themselves, and hate nothing worse than Peace.

CHAP. XII. The Author departs from Formosa. His arrival at Japon. The Description of Nanguesaque. The Condition of the Town. A dreadfull fire at Nanguesaque. The Stature, Nature, Habits, and Customes of the Japoneezes. Departure from Japon. Arrival at Formosa the second time. Their return to Siam, where they take in Elephants. The Author beat with a ropes end at the Main-mast, and why. His return for Holland, and End of the first Voyage.

WHen we had taken in our loading at Formosa, I left the Black-Bear, and was put aboard a Flyboat called, The Lady, which was bound for Iapon, and set sail on the 15 of Iuly following.

On the 10 ^th. of August we arrived at Iapon, where according to the manner, we signified our Arrival. Immediatly upon notice given came several Officers aboard, who took away our Rudder, Sails and Ammonition. That done they unloaded our Ship themselves, not suffering us to put to our hand to help them.

The name of the Haven was Nanguesaque, Nangue­saque (or Nangue­saky as some call it) descri­bed. a Town which the Portugueezes had built out of the Water, but upon their being rooted out of this Island was granted to the Dutch, who till their coming hither, had their Residence and Magazine at Firando. The [Page 60] Dutch Lodge is upon a small Iland, severed from the City by a wate [...] about 40 foot broad, having a Drawbridge, which only is let dow [...] from Sun to Sun. The Island is fortified with Pallizados, and that [...] strong, that they think themselves secure enough from any unwarran­table violence. The Magazine of the Company is just within th [...] Gates, and about the middle stands the house of the President which is a very large and sumptuous Building. Besides that there are several other Houses and Shops which make so many Streets and Courts. On that side next to the Sea stands another Gate, which goe [...] down with great and broad steps, built for the receiving in of Goo [...] which come by water. This is a very famous Place for Merchandise of all kinds, but the chief Commodities they deal in here, are Am [...] Steel Buck and Kaymans Hides, Silk both raw and wrought, Vel­vet, Damask, Sattins, Cotton, Mercury, Quick-silver, Verdi-gree [...] Camphir, Wax, Allome, Pepper, Ivory, and Furrs.

After we had been three days at Nanguesaque, and all our Carg [...] unloaded by the Iaponeezes: they shut our Hold up, and sealed [...] with the Emperours Signet. Which done the Officers went a shoa [...] and sent us 6 Balis of Sakky, a Drink they make of Rice, which is ve [...] pleasant, yet heady and strong. After our Ships-folk had got a litle i [...] their heads, they put out our Colours; but while they were in th [...] heighth of their mirth, An Orca­ne. there rose a blustring wind, after whic [...] followed a mighty Hurricano. Upon that our Courage was sufficien [...] ly allayed, for both our Cables broke, and the Ship was tossed mountains high, we looking for no other all the time than death. The Shi [...] De Vreede was like a litle Boat upon the top of every surge, and [...] last thrown upon the Strand where she lay drie: but all her Bow w [...] bilg'd, her Head broke, and her Hold full of Sand and Water. Our u [...] perworks were sadly battered, and the masts brought by the board. Th [...] Black Bear and another great Ship lying both with out the head, we [...] so shattered, that they were brought up by the Iaponeezes as Wrack [...] Besides this great loss which the Company sustained in the Shipping were also most of the Wares in the Magazine damnified by the Sea which beat over the Walls. The Town also suffered much by the high wind, they not expecting such a Tempest, at that time of th [...] year. When it had continued about half an hour or more, the Heaven [Page 61] [...] began to clear, and we to get courage, but durst not fall to [...] king again, for fear of another bout.

Nanguesaque lies in 33 degr. 15 min. northerly latitude in a very pleasant Land-ship and is both very great and populous; Situation of Nan­guesaq. but like most of the Towns of Iapon lies without walls. It is seated upon a very commodious Bay, or Road, fit to receive Ships of the greatest burthen. It has a very magnificent prospect from Seaward, having an [...]n infinit number of Towers, Temples and Spacious Palaces. [...] Their Houses. The Houses are mostly built of Wood, for the Ground is weak and frequently subject to Earthquakes, so that they cannot use [...] one. But the poorer sort have litle Cottages made of Twigs and plaister'd over with Clay, as in Brabant, Germany and other Countreys. They are Covered with Planks which shoot far out over the walls like Pent-house, to shelter them from Sun and Rain. They have upon [...]uch house several Tubs with water, which is kept in case of fire, to [...]hich such buildings are liable. And certainly were it not for the great [...]fit of the water running through the Town in Ditches, as it does almost Towns in Holland: it would be suddenly reduced to ashes and [...]r this reason have they built several Houses of Stone where to secure [...]eir Goods upon such occasions. The Houses of this City are uni­ [...]m, and the streets regular, there being 88 Streets, each 400 foot [...]g, which are are all fenced off with Palizados at the end, and Lant­ [...]orns set up. Here they have also their watch-houses, and none are [...]uffered to pass by night; no not to fetch either Doctor or Midwife, [...]ithout a Pass from the Governour. This Watch is set all ways at 10 a [...]ck, after which hour few people are seen upon the streets. This [...] good means to prevent Mutiny and Theft, but is a great incon­ [...]ence if Fire do happen to break out; for no street or Ward can [...]ave the Assistance of another in such case: besides the great danger [...]hat the People themselves are in, being sometimes so narrowly pen'd [...]p. An Instance of this happened in the year 1646, when a dread­ [...]ull fire happened in a house where several Dutch had their lodging, which on a sudden had consumed a great part of the Street and seve­ [...]al Houses on both sides, burnt down to the Ground. The Dutch then [...]eing themselves in such peril, chused rather to hazard the effects [...]f the Governours displeasure for that time, than to be roasted alive, [...]roke up the Fence and saved themselves.

[Page 62]The Iaponeezes are reasonable fair of complexion, but a litle me [...] swarthy than the Europeans. The Form Nature, Habit and cu­stomes of the Ja­ponee­zes. The ordinary Habit of the Man is [...] much distinguishad from that of the Woman. They go all w [...] long Robes thrown carelesly about their body, and tied round t [...] midle with a Surcingle. The Ladies of the best Quality, wear garment of cloth of Gold and Silver, and that very richly embr [...] dered: Their Hair is neatly adorned with gems and preci [...] stones. The men are robust and very personable; their Heads so [...] thing bigger than is duly analogical with their Bodies. T [...] Women are but slender, yet let their Body grow as it will, wearing alwaies a loose Garment, only their feet they screw [...] pinch as much as they can to make them litle, which they th [...] handsom: So that when they are come to their full growth, have like Children of 5 or 6 years old. The Iaponeezes are in gener [...] very hardy people, and can endure any extremity of Heat or [...] Hunger or Thirst to a miracle. This they seem to come to a hardy usage when they are young; for they always bath [...] Infants in cold weather in Rivers, and sometimes plunge [...] over head and ears in Snow. They are excellent Warrious, are well acquainted with Fire-arms; as also with the Long-bow [...] Javelin. They are grown famous in all the East, for expert A [...] rers, and temper Steel better than the Chineezes, which far excee [...] Europeans. Their Swords are so well tempered that I have struck one through an Iron pin, of half an inch thick, without the lest [...] of damage to the edge. They follow Hunting much, which [...] principal Trade and Pastime there in use, and prefer Ve [...] before any other dainty whatever. In their entertainments, are very open and liberal, Jannuary 1651 and use Tea for a Caress, whi [...] far better than that which is exported abroad, and prepared a different manner: but they refuse to impart it to Christians, w [...] I held somewhat strange, in regard, that the more it is use other Countreys the greater is their advantage, seeing that have better in this Island than any where else in the World.

When we had done our Negotiation at Iapon, we set Sail for Ba [...] directing our Course first for Formosa, and set Sail the 30 ^th. of Dece [...] with a hard Wind, and a Northerly That is, a Wind which blows from one point for certain moneths together, called al­so Mon­son. Mousson; so that we [...] Formosa in 10 days Sailing; and on the 9 ^th. of Ianuary following a [...] [Page 63] [...]at night cast anchor before the Fort Zeelandia. Upon our arrival [...]e I was put aboard the Post horse, which was bound for Siam, where [...]rrived on the 22 ^th. of Ianuary, and there took in the Sieur Van der [...]yden, Consul for the Company at India; who was to go for Batavia. Here we took in 8 young Elephants, with Provender, which was [...]mit and Sugar-cane, as also a certain quantity of Rice. Here I may [...] ommit a certain passage, which (though unadvisedly done) [...] almost cost me my neck. About noon when the dinner was [...]dy, I went to the Cook for a bowl of hot broth, which having [...]t I came to bring it to 2 of my Comrades, and passing by the Hold, [...]e of the Elephants wound me about the leggs with his Trunk (or [...]nout) that I came tumbling down, Plater and all, which being [...]lding hot, fell upon the Elephants back, and made him to roar out [...]d stamp, that the Ship tumbled and shaked again, this so amazed [...] Commander that he came running out of his Cabin to know what [...] the matter. Here I was in a great strait fearing to cry out, being [...]sible that he was a choleric man, and yet durst not stay below for [...] Elephant, who if he could have come at me would have trod­ [...] me as flat as a Flounder: but considering with my self that the [...]tain would assuredly come to hear of it, one time or another, and [...] staid long I was sure this beast of vengeance would send me to [...] Grandsir. I cryed out and the Commander in all hast sent one [...]o pull me up. So soon as they had got me upon the Deck, he gave [...]der to tie me to the mast, and commanded a fellow to lick me [...]ily with a ropes end.

On the 15 of February we set Sail for Batavia, February 1651 The Au­thor dis­miss'd. His re­turn for Holland. where I was discharged [...]y Service, and permitted to go for Holland: and in order thereto [...]nt aboard the Ship Zelandia, which was then almost ready to set [...]. On the 26 we set out, having a good Wind, and a fine serene [...]t. Within a few days we sailed through the Straits of Sunda; and [...]ence set our course for S. Helena.

On the 21 of April we got sight of Saint Helena, where we came safe [...]to the Harbour, being 7 Sail in all. As soon as we were arrived, Arrival at St. He­lena. [...]e went up into the Island to Hunt, fish and range the Woods for [...]ranges, Lemons and other Fruits.

Having now refreshed our selves sufficiently, May. and all things in a [Page 64] readiness we set sail in order to the pursuit of our Voyage, The end of the first Voy­age. and ma [...] Land on the 10 ^th. of August, where we bartered with such Goods [...] we had aboard, for Oxen, Sheep, and other necessarys: and [...] forwards for Holland, where by God's gracious Conduct we arrived o [...] the first of September 1651, and put in at Goeree.

CHAP. I. An account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage. A great Sea Storm. His arrival at Yarmouth, and at Leghorn, with a Description of that Town; as also of Pica and Florence, and lastly of Bologne.

BEing now safely arrived in my Countrey, after a long and tedious Voyage, which nevertheless by the Goodness of Almighty GOD, was not without some satisfaction for what was past; yet finding my self in a State litle better than before, and at a loss for Im­ployment, I was brought into a melancholic passion. After I had spent some time at Amsterdam, in waiting for an opportu­nity to make another Voyage, and not hearing of any, suitable to my mind and capacity, I resolved to go for Durgerdam, to see what enter­tainment I should find at home; and pursuant to that my intention went to the Boat, where I casually met with one Capt. Ketel of Dur­gerdam, a person with whom I was formerly acquainted. After he had congratulated my happy return, asked me, What course I was bound to take? I told him, that I had a desire to undertake a new Voyage, but I could not meet with an opportunity to Ship my self upon any considerable Terms. Well (said he) upon what Terms would you go? I replied, For Sailmaker. That occurs very well, quoth he, for I have been in­quiring for one, and we had already determin'd to go this Voyage without one: And [Page 66] if you like to go with us, DEC. 1655 I will be as civil to you as I may. This answer of his was no small matter of comfort to me, being then, as I have already said, destitute of Service. The Captain brought me ashoar, and in a Victualling-House agreed with me, when he had almost made me tipsy with Strongwaters, and so got me aboard the Passage-boat, where I lay and slept that whole night and the next day, till we ar­rived at the Texel, where the Ship lay at anchor. When I awaked I began to look about me, not knowing where I was, at first I thought I was in my Lodging at Amsterdam, but perceiving the Vessel tumble and toss too and again, I concluded that I was still aboard the East-India man. Whilst I was in this quandary the Captain comes down to me which unriddl'd the doubt. When I bethought my self what I had done, I grew very uneasy and displeas'd at my self, for my inconsi­derat and unadvised Actions: however the Captain gave me fair words, and assopiated the Quarrel between Me and My self.

On the 20 of December 1655 I Shipp'd my self aboard the Fly-boat, called Het Huys te Gennip, which was bound first for Yarmouth, where she was to take in Red-herring.

On the 14 of Decemb. we left the Texel, and on the 20 ^th. got Yarmouth Roads, where we met with a contrary Wind, which blew so hard that we could carry no Sail, but were fain to let all drive, and trust to the mercy of GOD. This dured for the space of 12 Watches, at which time we made the Texel; and to our great happiness had a Pilot aboard, that was intended for. Yarmouth who brought us safe in at the Spaniards gat: for it was impossible for us to keep off at Sea, the Ship being so full of Sand, that we could not stir the Pump: and before we made land, found that we had 7 foot Water in the Hold, so that had we not luckily put in there then, the Ship had not held out one Watch lon­ger. When by the Grace of God, and Diligence of the Pilot we had got in there, we unloaded the Ship, stopt the leaks, and supplied the defects of our equippage. and,

January 1656On the 28 of Decemb. we set Sail, having a brave Wind, and clear weather; and on New-years day arrived safe at Yarmouth.

On the 15 of January we weighed anchor, and left Yarmouth, having taken in our intended Loading, and directed our course for the Straits of Gibralter.

[Page 67]On the 2 of February we entred the Straits, FEB. 1656. and on the 10 ^th. got Leghorn. When we lay at anchor here, there happened a misunder­standing between Mr. Ketel and my self, about a trifling business, which brought us both without the bounds of Moderation; for proceeding from Words to Blows, we were at last soo deeply ingaged that we both tumbled over board. Our Master was so kind as to let me climb up but when I came upon Deck put me in Irons, that seeing our courage was not yet cooled in the Sea, he had that one mean to keep us asunder. In the mean while some had taken opportunity to pillage my chest, and borrow 116 Ducatoons: but I could never be so happy as to learn who was my Creditor: so that I had but a small portion left me, with which I purposed to go by land to Venice.

Leghorn is so well known of all Gentlemen and Marriners that have seen Italy, that it may seem needless to describe it. Nevertheless since it is a part of my Province, to take notice of such Towns as are in any regard eminent and famous, I shall not ommit to say something briefly of it.

This City which is one of the chief Havens in renowned Italy, was by Francis and Ferdinand, great Dukes of Tuscany upon consideration of it's commodious site raised from a mean village to a great Empo­rium. The said Dukes fortified it with a stone wall, since which time it was gradually advanced by the encouragement of Trade; and is at present strengthned with 5 Bulwarks and 2 Cittadels, or Forts the one whereof commands the Haven, and the other secures the Town on the Land side, towards Pisa, which is furnished with 60 great Guns. About 6 English miles from the City is a Beacon for direction of Marriners by night, there being many Rocks toward the South that are often the occasion of Ship-wrack, and is therefore called Malhora. These Rocks do cause impetuous breakings of the Sea, which yet render the entrance of the Haven more free and secure. So that Ships and Galleys may ride safely at anchor in this Road. The City on the out-side appears more magnificent than it is indeed in­wardly: The Frontispieces, as well of Privat as Public Buildings being plaistered, upon which are painted Sea-fights, Histories and Land­schap. In the midle of the Town is a stately Market place and an Exchange, where (as at other Places) Merchants meet and negotiate their Affairs. Corn, Flesh, Fish and other necessaries are here very [Page 68] good and cheap, which occasions almost all that are bound farther up to put in there for Refreshment. On a Corner Stand four statues in brass, representing the Father and 3 Sons, who attempted to row away a Galley, belonging to the Duke of Tuscany; and ply'd so strongly that the rest of the Galleys, had enough to do to overtake them, and were ready to yield it for lost. These 4 men were Moors, and for that notable Essay, are recorded with their Images in mettal which are set one against another, with their Hands behind their back.

Leaving Leghorn I set forward for Pisa: but before I was got half way, was assail'd with 4 Highway men, who were well mounted and arm'd: two whereof allighted, and clapt their Pistols to my breast, bidding me deliver my money. In the mean while they fell a searching of my pockets and breeches, but not finding my money, which I had stitch'd up in the lining of my Coat, they gave me 2 bunches of Grapes, and rode away.

Arrival at Pisa.On the 22 of February I came into Pisa, where I took up my lodging for that night, and the next day went to take a view of the Town. It is seated at the foot of a great Hill, about 8 leagues from the Sea, be­tween two Rivers Ausere and Arno: and seems to be of Pisa, vel ut a­pud Pto­lomae um Pissa, te­ste Strabo­ne lib. 5. Tusciae oppi­dum, in­ter Ar­num & Auserem amnes, à Pisaeis, condi­tum, Eli­dis popu­lis, qui Nestorem ad Ilium seculi in reditu tempesta­te disje­cti, a­lii quidem Metap ontum, alii littus Tyrrhenum [...]enuerunt, ubi a nomine relictae patriae Pisas condiderunt. ancient Standing. It was made an University (as some write) about the year 1339 but began to grow out of Esteem till restored by Cosmo di Medicis Duke of Florence, and afterward by Laurence his Nephew; to wh [...]m Vollaterran and Machiavel ascribe the Founding. There are here several fair Churches; that dedicate to Saint Iohn is a very stately building, and renowned beyond any other Church in Italy, for it's costly Tower which is of admirable rare Workmanship. The Church-yard, otherwise called Campo Sancto, is visited by many strangers, which was made at that time, when Frederic Barbarossa went to Warrs against the Infidels in the Holy Land: to which Expedition those of Pisa assisted him with 50 Galleys. But the said Frederic Barbarossa being casually drowned, the Galleys returned back again, all freighted with Earth, of which they say the Church-yard is made.

On the 23 towards night I left Pisa, and went to Florence; Between which two Towns is the most delectable Fields and Valleys, that ever I have seen, either before or since, insomuch that I thought my Journey neither long nor irksom, though on foot.

[Page 69]On the 26 I entred Florence, which is seated in a pleasant Valley' and divided by the River Arno into two parts, which is the same River that runs by Pisa. On the West it hath the Champane land which is admirably delightfull: on the East the Countrey is Hilly, and stored with abundance of Fruit-trees, and on some part it is for­tified with the Appenin Hills. This City is reckoned about 7 miles in compass, and enjoys a subtile and wholsom Air, which renders the Natives and Inhabitants more acute and of a sharper Genius than those that Inhabit, or are born in places of a grosser: The City which is divided by the River, is again united by four stately Bridges. which so beautify the Town that perhaps gave Charles the Arch-duke occasion to say, that this was a City only to be seen on Holy-days. The fertile Hills and rich Valleys wherewith it is environed, affoard the In­habitants plenty of all necessaries. Here is the Court and Residence of the Duke: The Palace being one of the most magnificent in all Italy, yet far more spacious and splendid within than without: but to recount the spacious Halls, Pompous Antichambre, Marble Statues and Pictures in the Galleries, with all it's Appendencies, were an endless labour. Right over against the Pallace is a Lifeguard, con­sisting of a hundred Germans. Before the Palace is also a very stately Fountain, adorned with huge Statues both of Marble and Brass, out of which springs Water, being all in emblematical representa­tions. Upon the Mercato Novo is a very sumptuous Building in which the Citizens, meet and treat about the affairs of Merchandise. The Palace of the Medici is a stupendious Fabric, and for artificial car­ved works, aswell in Wood as Stone, and Pictures of the most eminent Italian Masters, seems to aemulate the famous Vatican. Besides these are many other inferior Palaces, Bublic Puildings, Churches, Chappels and very spacious Cloysters, all which would take up some moneths to make an exact survey of. In many streets are Galle­ries or Piazzas, (as in Covent Garden,) where one may walk to avoid either Sun or Rain. Here are also many Houses built for Cha­ritable uses, where the Sick are relieved with what they stand in need of; and every one of those Houses kept very neat and clean, especially the Hospital adjoyning to the Church Alla Nunciata. Yet above the many famous Structures which grace Florence, the House of Prattelino outbraves them all, which was built by Francis de Medicis. The first [Page 70] you come at is the Palace, which is raised upon a square Fund, or Platform, which entring, you have at first view four Chambers that are opposite to one another, and stand also in quadrangular form, so that the 4 quarters are again subdivided each into 4 less, which make 16 Appartments. In one of these stand 2 costly Beds, one for the Duke, and the other for the Dutchess. The rest of the Cham­bers are hang'd with Tapestry, and some with Cloth of Gold, un­speakably rich; and illustrated with artificial and costly Statues, which are set in convenient Places thereto ordained. In like manner when we went up another story, we found 16 Chambers more, paralel with the Platform of the former. In every one of these was a stately bed, the meanest whereof is computed to have cost more than a Thousand Crowns. Comeing out of the Pallace you come alla Grotta, which is a fair Arch having therin a Fountain, that seems rather to be Natural than performed by Art. Round about the Fountain are Snakes, Ad­ders, Lizzards and other Serpents, so artificially made in Brass that they might be taken for Living. On each Pillar stand Organs, which are moved by the force of Water, in such manner, that they make a most lovely and sweet Harmony. The Walls are in several places so thick set with Gems, Coral and other things of value, that they cannot be per­ceived. The rest is set with Marble. About the middle stand fair Alabaster Tables, to which if you draw near, the Water rises from under your feet, and flies all over your head and bodie, but indeavoring to shun it, you are again saluted after the same manner from another place. On the other side is another called Grotta Sibylla, which is also very costly, and set out with many fair Statues of Marble and Alabastre, richly adorned with Coral, where are also curious Water-works, none ever coming there but is wet with those subterranean Showers. On your right hand is the Bath of the Prince, which is under full of holes, through which the warmth can come to cause Sweat. Besides these there is a third Arch, which is for the Heat in Summer, whither the Duke and his Houshold retire to refrigerate themselves. In this Arch, is a fair large Table of Alabaster, and at each end several Holes, in which they set their wine to cool. There is belonging to this House a pleasant Garden, wherein are many Springs and Ponds: and every rare and choice Tree that will like in that Clime. Behind this Garden is a Park, full of strange Birds and Beasts, and therein a stately and [Page 71] delightsom Arbor where the Duke frequently dines in the Summer season, and from whence he can view both his Palaces, the one with­in the City and the other without. Right over this aforesaid Garden is yet another, in the middle whereof is a Chappel, where the Duke for the most part goes to Mass, and Vespers. This Chappel is built round, after the manner of the Heathenish Temples of old, planted round with Cypress trees, and has all its inner works of that Wood. Near to that stands an Image of 24 foot high, which will represent Neptune, or Thetis, made of White marble, from whence all the Waters in the Fountains have their Rise: upon which if a man stands he hears a wonderfull murmuring and buzzing of Water from below.

This City is a place of great Traffic and Commerce, especially in Silks and Velvets, of which I saw many rich shops upon the Ponte Pecchio, or Old Bridge. The Florentines themselves are very able and skillfull in the Affairs of Merchandise, and very litle Traffic don in Italy wherein they have not an interest; so that Pope Clement VI called them the fifth Element. Besides their domestic and exotic Trade, they have given encouragement to, and bred up many, ingenious and famous Masters in Architecture, Painting, Carving and other Practical Sciences and Arts, and have for a perpetual memory and Gratitude so many stately Pallaces, Churches, Pictures and Statues left them to Posterity. This City is also very Courtly in respect of it's Situa­tion, through which all Ambassadours and Ministers of State from forreign Potentates must pass, intending for the Court of Rome, or Seignory of Venice. It is much frequented, visited and likewise inha­bited by many Private Gentlemen, who spend their Estates here, and is a choice place to live in as well for Artificial as natural De­lights, for such as have an Estate to bear it out with. However, I had litle reason to complain of bad measure during the few daies I staid there. For meeting accidentally with a Monk, A Christian Monk. who seeing me to be a Hollander, did not only caress me all the time in such manner that I needed not pay any thing either for Lodging or Diet, but also show'd me all what was remarkable about the City. This Monk un­derstanding that I was short of Moneys, and intended for Venice, procured me 4 Rix-dollars, which was as much as I had occasion for, to bear my Charges thither. Depar­ture from Florence

On the 1 ^st. of March I left Florence, and took my leave of the [Page 72] Monk, IAN. 1656. whom I thanked for his great Favour and Civility, which he had so signally manifested to me a stranger, on such an extreme and emergent occasion: and tending towards Bologne, I was fain to climb over a high steep Mountain, and in the valley found the City.

Bologne lies about 44 degr. being a Town of small circumference, yet wealthy and full of Inhabitants. The form of the City seems to resemble a Ship whereof the Tower d' Asinelli is the Mast. It has ever been a Maxim among them not to suffer either Cittadel or Fort to be built, under the specious name of Fortification, being jealous that under such a colour they might check the Citizens at their plea­sure; So that the Bologneezes have nothing to rely upon, than only the Walls, and valour of their men. The City is founded on the Banks of the famous Savona, which River incorporates with the Rhem a litle above Ferrara, by which way all Goods are conveighed. The Air is here for the most part moist, which renders the circumjacient Countrey very fertile, there being the best Meadows and Arable ground in all Italy. There is also very good Wine, Olives and Oil: although Fish they have none except what is brought from a far; but Venison in great abundance. In this place are made such Sausa­ges, as are sent abroad for great rarities, which some would perswade us at home are made of Asses flesh: but my curiosity induced me to make such examination of that matter, that I found it otherwise; for they are made of Yet no­thing is more co­vered and eaten by the Jews. Pork and Mutton. Besides the Traffic in the na­tural Products of the Land, they are great Encouragers of Manufa­ctories, and especially in Silks. The Streets are very fair and spacious, and at each corner is erected a Conduit, or Fountain. The Houses on the outside seem as if they were quite gone to decay, yet within are very sumptuous and costly, quite contrary to those in most places in Spain, that I have seen, where every House by the Frontispiece seems rather a Palace than a private Dwelling, yet within nasty, full of spiders-webs, and void of Utensils, pure Emblemes of Hypo­crisy. During my aboad there I found not any thing extraordinary, as worthy of Remark, unless the Tower of Garisenda, which is built crooked on purpose, for a proof of Art: although some hold the Churches of this City (if taken in general) to surpass all others in any particular Town in Italy, more especially in regard of the ma­ny and rich Images, both of Gold and Silver, but their ground [Page 73] for such an opinion is so deep, MAR. 1656. that I have not line enough to sound it.

CHAP. II. The Author departs from Bologne, and arrives at Ferrara. Assail'd by a Robber: His Arrival at Venice, where he lists himself in the Armade. He arrives at Sante. A great storm between Milo and Argenter. The Ship called The Golden Cock split upon Rocks. A sad Shipwrack. A woman wonderfully sav'd. The Au­thors arrival at Candia: Departs with a Tartan to the Venetian Armade. Their Appearance before Mytilene, where they obtain much Spoil and Provision; at last assaulted by 200 of the Turkish Chevalrie. Their Encounter, and return aboard the Fleet.

AFter I had staid 2 days at Bologne, I set forward for Ferrara, where being arrived I found it a dead Town, having nothing of Trade; but on the contrary many places void and unbuilt, a sure and evident token of the declining condition of that City. Notwithstan­ding all that, there are many curious Structures in Ferrara, especially on the River Po, which runs that way, and expatiates it self in Tren­ches or Ditches through the Town. It is strengthened with many strong Bulwarks and Ramparts, and has many spacious and airy streets, with Piazzas on each side along the Houses. Besides this, I could not find any thing worthy of remark, and certainly it was no time for me to consume my small Estate upon such unprofitable Pleasures.

On the 6 ditto I left Ferrara, tending my journey for Chioggio, but by the way met a Foot-padder, who pillag'd me, The Au­thor ri­fled. and took away 2 Rixdollars, which were given me by the Monk at Florenza, and left me about 20 ^d to help me to Venice.

On the 8 ^th. I arrived at Chioggio, which is a small City on the Sea-side, Arrival at Chiog­gio. from whence I could view the long-wish'd-for Venice, being but 3 miles distant. Here is a very convenient Haven, most haunted by Fishers, yet has litle other Trading to depend upon, except Gar­dening, and that only to supply Venice with Plants and Herbs. The prime thing I saw here, was an Image of the Virgin, with a weeping Child in her arm, held by them in great Veneration. As for Churches [Page 74] and Cloysters I had neither leisure nor money to gaze at'em, MAY. 1656. for my Noble was brought to Ninepence, and only as much left me as would pay my Passage to Venice: where being arrived, and paid my naulum, I had not a Farthing left. Nevertheless I knew that I could list my self when I would, and receive advance-money: and after a litle Inquiry, met with Monsr. Theodore de Haan, Commander of the Golden Cock, who took me on as Sail-maker. It was not long before the Ship was in her due equippage, and set forth in order to joyn with the Ar­made of Venice, which was upon an Expedition against the Turks in the Dardanelli. But de Haan having received letters from Holland, about some urgent affairs of his own, resigned the Command to his Son, and went home by Land.

On the 10 ^th of April we set Sail from Venice, in company with the Grand St. George, which was then commanded by the Sieur Court Adelaar afterwards Admiral of Denmark, and lately deceased.

On the 20 ditto we arrived at Xante, where we supplied our selves with fresh Water, and took in some Pipes of Wine, which is here exceeding good, and tolerably cheap: for the Barillo, a measure of about 5 Gallon, or rather more, costs but a Scudo, that I suppose is equivalent with 5 ^• 8 ^d Sterl. which again is vended in the Armade for 6 Crowns.

On the 22 we departed from Xante directing our course for Milo; and on the 5 ^th. of May got the heighth of that Island, but did not touch there, steering directly between Milo and Argentero; and here we came to anchor, but too near the coast of Argentero, for we were annoyed with mud. Upon this arose a great Storm of Wind, which rock'd us to and again, and at last broke our Cables. We endeavored all we could to get Sea room, but the Wind being towards the Land, drove us flat against the Coast, where the Sieur Adelaar seeing us in such danger, sent off his Long Boat with 5 or 6 men to fetch a Person of Quality from aboard us, who was a Superintendant of some emi­nent Place, under the Jurisdiction of the Common-wealth: but all the rest of the Gentry, with about an Hundred Soldiers and Marriners stayd aboard. Soon after, the Ship was cast upon a Rock with the violence of the Sea, where she split all in pieces: in such manner as no tongue can express, nor pen decipher, that a Ship of such Bur­then, like a Plank was thrown so high above Water, and in the [Page 75] twinkling of an eie dasht into a Thousand shivers. Lamentable it was to hear the pitifull moan of so many that were Parents for their Children, Men for their Wives, Wives for their Husbands, Chil­dren for their Parents, and every particular for their Friends and Al­liance, The Master of the Ship and my self got a Mast, which, what by the boystrous Wind, and what by the violence of the Floods, did so tumble and roll, that we could not keep it in a due ballance, so that we thought best to look out for something else, and by Hea­venly Providence met with the great Hatch, which came driving with such force against the Mast, that it had almost sent us both to sound the Deep. However indeavouring to save our Lives, we got fast hold of the Hatch, and won the Shoar. All the rest were drowned to 19 Men, and 2 Women; the one whereof was a Venetian Lady, A Gentle­woman wonder­fully pre­served. whose Husband was a Captain in that Expedition. This Gentle­woman, after a long and wearisom beating thro the Surges, and Foamings of the Sea, was thrown mother-naked upon Land, but most miserably torn and rent with Nails and Splinters; having ac­cording to the report made by the Chirurgeon, above Fifty Wounds and Holes in her Body: yet notwithstanding all this, was more grie­ved to hear of the loss of her Husband, than sensible of her own calamity: However considering the extreme cold season, and her weak condition, we covered her Warm with cloaths and Bedding. The other Woman that was saved, was the wife of a Privat Soldier, who was great with child, had driven Six and Thirty Hours upon a piece of the Hulk, and to our great admiration was taken up alive. It was certain that she could not have endured any longer being already stiff and benummed, and us pale as a Corps. So soon as she was brought aboard the Saint George and warmed, was delivered of an Abortiv Child: but her self revived, being cherished by the help of other Women aboard that Ship. Shortly after the Ship-wrack came all the Moveables and Goods ashoar. Being now come aboard the Saint George, and a litle refreshed, we steer'd away for Candy, where we arrived in safety; but what by our unhappy lingring at Argentero, and increase of Folk, the Victualling grew very low; upon which we desired the Governour to supply us with what we had occasion for, but Answer was returned us, That Candia was of it self but very meanly provided, and that they were not in a capacity to assist us. We then [Page 76] desired, that we might have a Tartan to transport us to the Armade, in order to admit our selves again into the service of the Common­wealth. To this the Governour gave his assent, and with a Ship and 15 men, and some Ammonition dispatched us for the Armade.

On the 3 of May we set Sail from Candy, but were put to our allow­ance at the rate of 2 lib. of Bread each man a day, upon a Calculation of 10 days, and so consequently 20 lib. the Voyage.

On the 8 ditto, we came close under Mytilene, and found that our Provision was already spent, so that it was resolved by the major part of the Company, that we should go ashoar and see out for something to supply our Wants, although we knew that the Island was under the Jurisdiction of the Turkish Emperour. However seeing there was as much Danger on the other hand, we chused rather to adventure our selves on land, than to starv aboard: and accordingly 12 Hollan­ders and 15 Greeks stept ashoar, and seeing a drove of Cattel we took 6 fat Kine, which we led to the Boat and so got them hoys'd aboard, one by one. This fair beginning encouraged us to go further within land and about a mile from the Creek where the Tartan lay, found a small village of about 10 or 12 Houses, but [...]ot any appearance of either man, woman or child, who we concluded had hid themselves for fear. In the mean while finding no scarcity of Bread, Meal, Butter, Cheese, Honey, Wine and Oil, we pick'd and chus'd each what he had a mind to, and having pack'd up more than we could carry, we thought it a sin to leave any thing behind us: we therefore went a litle out of the Village, where we found about 20 Asses, these we took and loaded with our Spoil, and in our return to the Shallop espy'd a Castle which before we had not seen, and thither we supposed that the Peasantry of that Hamlet were fled to secure themselves. But in coming forwards, we found that there was but one high way to the Boat from the Village, and that close by the Castle; for every man had fenc'd in his Ground with a high Flint-wall: nevertheless coming past the Castle we met with no obstruction or annoyance in the World, till being got about half-way I looked about, and spied 200 Troo­pers following us as hard as they could drive, whereupon I cried out, Gentlemen, Here comes a Command of Horse, see what you have to do, and resolve without much loss of time, for if you do not behave your selves coura­giously we are all dead men. Be valorous and keep together, let us be faithfull, [Page 77] and if, we must submit to death at this time, MAY 1655 let it be in a honourable manner ▪ The Turks in the mean while drew nearer and nearer: and we loath to part with our Plunder, made a faint-hearted fellow (that was good for nothing else) drive the Asses before, whilest we drew up into a Body and put our selves into a Posture of defence. Our men unani­mously gave me (for the time being) the honour of a Chieftain, in lieu of a better. As for the Greeks, they were greater Strangers to martial Discipline than we, and ran confusedly up and down without any order. When the Turks were just come upon us, I gave charge that they should not fire all at once, but by 5 at a time, and that not till they had taken good aim, and the Enemy within shot. With that the Turkish Commander (being a Moor) advanced upon a stately Horse, was bound to level his Carbine, but to anticipate him I gave the Word to the first Rank, who brought him down to the Ground and three more besides him. This falling out luckily the second Rank gave fire, and so following the third, till we saw above 20 of the Enemies Party dead, that gave us no small encouragement; but on the contrary so disheartned the Enemy that they began to retreat; for besides the great advantage we had of the High walls of Flint, which served us for a Rampart; our Arms were large Musquets, and theirs but small Carbines, which at that distance could not do much Execution. When they were gone a good way back, we climbed over the Wall, marched along the high way with four in a Rank, and kept our selves together. The Turks seeing that faced about on a sudden, clapt spurrs to their Horses, and came driving upon us with a most horrid shouting; thinking so to bring us out of our Ranks, and to put us into a disorder: which if they could have effected, had served their turn. But our men the second time faced about and levelled their Musquets, till we had them at a due distance and so we fired for a good while together, without either gaining or loosing ground; till at last the Enemy seeing themselves con­siderably weakned by the loss of their Leaders, were forced to retreat again till they were out of shot: but so soon as we began again to march, they followed us, but in a very easy pace, in­tending (as we had colour to beleeve) to surprize us at taking our [...]es aboard, but they seeing us too near the Boat were content to let us alone for that time: for had they come we had [Page 78] four small brass Pieces in the Shallop which would have done more service than the Musquets. MAY. 1656. So after this small Bickering, we got our Spoil aboard, with the loss of 2 dead, and 3 wounded in the Conflict.

CHAP. III. The Authors Arrival at Sante Monte; and at Troy. The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkish Armade. An English Ship ingaged with the Turks; defends her self manfully, and at last burned. The Author made Slave, and put in a Galley, with an old Russ: Consult to escape: Betake themselves to Water, and are discovered. The Russ shot with an arrow. They come both to the Venetian Armade.

ON the 9 ^th. dito we left Mytilene, and with a brave Wind got Monte Sante, or Holy Mount in 2 days: This being the Hill (as the devout Romanists beleeve) whereon our Saviour was tempted by Sa­than, and from whence he show'd him all the Riches of the Earth.

On the 12 dito we Sailed into the River of Constantinople, where we found the Sea-Armade of Venice at Troy, which is the place and remnant of the famous Troy, so much read of in the Poets of old, although it is hard to judge where the Town has verily stood. All that is to be seen, is a Gate which is built of white Marble, and seems to be exceed­ing ancient, and a small Village with the Foundations of a wall, that encompasse the Town 7 times, not in circular form, but as it were involved like a Snake, or the spring of a Watch. Towards the Sea are some Trenches and a Redout of Earth, which have been lately made by the Turks to check the Passage of the Propontis, or Channel of Constantinople.

On the 14 we were taken into service, and I put aboard the Litle Princess.

On the 15 we saw the Galleys of Bey, who seeing that we had stopt the Channel, row'd away toward the Greek shoar, where they stay'd together, being 22 in number.

On the 16 came an English Ship from Sante called the Midleton to bring Bread, Oars, and Ammonition for the Armade, w [...]ch the Turkish Galleys assail'd, when she came near the Dardanelli. We hear­ing that, did all we could to sail off and assist them; but it was so [Page 79] calm, that our Sails cling'd about the mast. MAY. 1656. The Turks in the mean while lay battering the English Ship, and the English on the other hand defended themselves couragiously. After they had fought some hours, the Turks boarded her abaft and got the Poop, which the English seeing blew up the Decks, and so set the Ship on Fire, which nevertheless when they saw her on Fire to the Main Mast, ceased not to fire valourously out at the Prow till she began to sink, which they mar­king betook themselves to swimming, rather willing to burn or sink than surrender themselves or Ship upon dishonorable Terms. Howe­ver the Turks took up as many as they could, and made slaves of them. Aboard this Ship was an English Woman who kept a House of En­tertainment at Venice, notedly known by the name of Mrs. Penters, and one that was very kind to the English and Dutch when in any strait or trouble, and many of our Nation were sorry when they heard of her Death. The Ship Midleton was mounted with 36 Guns, and 60 Men, whereof about 40 were drown'd and burn'd, as we found by the Bodies we took up an hour and a half after the Battel. And after­ward understood by the Slaves we took in the Engagement at the Dardanelli, that the Galleys were so disabled that they repented the Assault, besides more than 500 Men outright kill'd, and a far grea­ter number wounded.

While we lay at Anchor at the entrance of the Channel, and loating to and again before the Dardanelli, the most part of our men were quell'd with a Scorbutic distemper, for want of fresh Water. For all the Water we could have, we must fetch out of the River of Troy, which we could not doe without great perril, and jeopardy of our lives; the Turks having several hidden Trenches, in which they lay sculking till they saw opportunity, and then surprized us. To my great misfortune, I was sent out with 7 more to fetch Water with a Boat; and coming to Troy, we saw very rich Vineyards, at a distance, and mightily longing for some such refreshments, we cast lots who should make the attempt to go and fetch some Grapes, and the [...]ot fell upon me: wherefore without much loss of time I betook my self thither, viewing warily if the coast were clear, but seeing no stir or appearance of men; I went up undauntedly, where I made both Hands and Chaps move. But whilst I was thus busy, heard a great [...]oise, and turning me about, descried several Turks that had lay in [Page 80] ambush running towards me, from several places between me and the River. Our men were newly come ashoar and filling their Casks with Water, who made all the hast they could, gain'd the Boat, loos'd off from the shoar, and eying the Enemy too earnestly ran the Shallop upon a Sand, where they were set fast; but having some Fire-arms aboard, they kept the Turks off, till they got the Boat adrift, and so made their escape. In the mean while I sat biting my nails, and scratching my head in the Vineyard. Seeing my way forelaid, and no hopes of coming to the Sea-side. I began to consult with my self what shift to make, and concluded it the greatest folly in the world to oppose my self against so many men, for which (being once in their clutches) I might expect severer usage. It was not long before they came to see what kind of a Fool, they had got in their Gin, where they found Peel-garlick ready to yield up the Ghost for fear. They brought me first to the Hamlet, where Troy was said to stand in times of yore, and afterwards to those Castles which are built oppo­site to each other, The Au­thor made a Slave. and command the entrance of the Dardanelli. Here they put me in a Galley, stript off my Robes, shaved my head, and set me to an Oar, which was work enough for six of us to tug at, allowing me only a pair of linnen Breeches to cover my nakedness. I was chain'd to a Russian, who had been 24 years in the Galleys: for all strangers that they take in the Venetian Sea-Armade, are to stay in the Galleys during life, without the benefit of Redemption. Which when I came to understand, began in all hast to repent my temerity, and foolhardiness, and had thought my self more happy if I had been pilling of Turnips or Cucumbers at Durgerdam, than plucking of such sour Grapes, in a Trojan Vineyard.

How inhuman and barbarous our Usage was, no Tongue can duly utter nor Pen decipher. For the Guardian of that Galley was repu­ted the most severe of any other in the Fleet, and although we plyed never so sedulously, were sure to be thresh'd on the naked ribs with a Buls-pizle, when the fit took him; and one mans hide must unjustly be made a piaculum, for another's Remisness, or Sloth, nor was the Tygre ever well, but when he heard some a roaring, or yelling out The Russ was ever now and then counselling to betake our selvs to flight, which I had a great mind to essay (for the Venetian Armade lay but two leagues from us) but could never see an opportunity, [Page 81] meeting perpetually with one obstruction or other; and the Coast narrowly watch'd by the Turks. The Russ had several times attempted to run away, but was ever taken, and had neither Nose nor Ears left him. This woful Praecedent daunted me so, that I had no great sto­mach to try, but one day above the rest he gave me good encoura­gement, saying, Prethee Brother, Which is best, To live in perpetual Slavery, or, Doe what you can, to make your Escape? Put the case it should be fruitless and we should be taken, I shall be sure to have the hardest measure, but you, only a hundred stroaks on the foot, at worst. 'Tis true, they have threatned to burn me, if ever I run away again, and am caught; but I will rather dy so, than to live all my days under the lash of those unreasonable Hell-Hounds, and to be tormented with a Thousand Plagues, after the manner you see. Come, come, resolve. Faint heart never won fair Lady, and Nothing venture, nothing have; What is there in the VVorld, that may be praeferred before a Golden Freedom? By these and many other reasons he moved me to hazard to matter. The Moscovian or Russ, who was a subtile Impostor, and had an excellent hand at any kind of Roguery, had been some time before at Constantinople, where he had bought a File; this he had stitch'd up in his Coat, and carried always a litle Tinder-box and a Watch-light about him, to use in time of occasion.

Having now for the space of 6 Weeks endured this wofull state, The Au­thor makes his Escape. we found an Opportunity to rid our selvs of that miserable Slavery: for being now left to our Liberty to fetch Water for our selves, my Camrade and I that were chain'd together went farther within Land than we needed, and so returned honestly back to the Galley, and that for 2 or 3 times together, the better to prevent suspicion, till at last, we ran so far out of sight that we thought our Enterprize half won. The night coming on, it began to rain, and we to shelter our selvs, crept into a cave, where my Mate struck fire and lighted his Wax-candle, that we might see to file: and after a litle labour got our selves loose. The night in regard it was dark favour'd us mainly, so that we came to the strand an hour before break of Day, which we saw full of Tents. But being a very rainy night and stormy wea­ther, the Sentinels did not attend their Posts, so that we passed through the middest of them without any examination, and betook our selves to swimming before it was observ'd. But it was not long before they began to suspect something, or other, for that Water is [Page 82] very salt and has this property, that with the lest motion, or troubling, it burns like fire. Hereupon they shot at us by guess and random, with the Long-bow (for by reason of the Rain they could not use their Fire-arms,) so that the Arrows came pelting about our ears, and sometimes grazing upon the Water, till at last one hit the Russ directly upon the buttock. However he swom so long with it, till we were out of shot, The Russ shot with an Ar­row. but when I would have pulled it out; the poor caitiff began to yell out most miserably, crying, Let alone, let alone, 'tis an Arrow with a wicker. And thus he was fain to swim for two Leagues together, before we came to the Venetian Armade: and had the stream heavy on our side. When we came to the Armade we were taken into the Ship Abrahams Offering, where the Russ had the Arrow drawn out of his buttock, which had pierced him to the very bone, and put him to a miserable torture before it was drawn out, being a Harpoon with 8 wickers. However he was by the diligence of an able Chirurgeon in a short time cured of his Wound; and we thanked God for his delivery of us from the hands of those merciless Tyrants, preserving us through the dangerous floods, and bringing us to a Christian People.

CHAP. IV. The fugitive Slaves brought before the General. The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys. Names of the Com­manders and Chieftains The Malteezes joyn with the Armade. The Turkish Fleet sail up, endeavour to break through, are hindred by the Malteezes. The Turks throw up two Batteries. A dreadfull Engagement, and playing off the Cannon for three days together. The Turks begin to settle. The Stability and valour of the Venetians. The Turks loose their Courage.

June 1656ON the 24 of Iune by break of day we got the Armade (in manner as aforesaid) and about 8 a clock, I was brought before the General, to whom I signified what had passed as to my particular concernment, and gave him what Intelligence I could from the Turkish Fleet, who intended that day to fall down, had already reckoned the day their own, and made a Dividend among them­selves, of the Ships, Spoil, and Slaves, for which reason the Offi­cers [Page 83] were very eager, and indeavored to hasten the Expedition. The General received me kindly, thanked me for the Information, or­dered us each 50 Crowns, and so dismissed us. So soon as we were come out of the Generals presence, he ordered a Proclamation to be proclaimed and affixed to the Mast of every Ship and Galley, That every privat person should freely enjoy what they could get by plundering; and a strict Interdiction was sent to the respective Offi­cers not to deprive or molest them upon pain of Death: which was no small incouragement to the Marriners and privat Soldiery, At first the Venetians were very weak, but afterward, by the joyning of the Maltheezes and some Dutch, they were increas'd to 28 Ships of War, 24 Galleys, and 7 Galeasses. Their Officers were as follow.

For the space of one whole moneth we crused upon the Turkish Armade, which we waited for daily from Constantinople. In the mean while those of Maltha came up with their Galleys to the Venetian Ar­mada, under the Flag of the Prior of Rochel. The Turks on the contrary had 28 Men of War. 9 Galeasses, and 60 Galleys, those of the Bey reckoned with them. The said Fleet was also full of men, and well provided with Ammunition.

[Page 85]On the 23 the whole Armade came down with full Sail before the Dardanelli, as if they would direct their course for the Islands of Greece, or some place in the Archipellago, aiming to make a breach sometimes at one place, and sometimes at another; But the Venetians were too vigilant to suffer it; for they composed their Fleet in such order, that the Turks could not find a Passage. Nevertheless the Maltheezes disown'd themselvs to be under the Standard of Saint Mark, but reserved the Command of their own Galleys, as themselves listed and thought good.

On the 24 the Turks held themselves close to the Banks near the two Castles, mentioned before (in Pag. 80) which tended mainly to their advantage. Besides this they had thrown up two Batteries, one upon the Corner of Barbaria, on the Anatolian Side, and another, on the Greek, or Western Coast, from whence they play'd off their great Guns against the Christian Navy, to work a passage through for their Fleet. Three days long continued they on both sides firing with their Canon, the Admiral of the Venetians, as bearing the chief Standard; riding nearest to the Enemy, and consequenly suffered more dammage than the rest of the Navy: for the Turks threw out great Stones with their Bombs, that they killd three men on a brest, who stood very near the General. In these Castles are Guns of an incredible mussin, and as some say, those in the outmost Redoubts 30 inches diameter. And although there was not any hope of doing the Enemy much harm, yet the Christian Fleet kept still in good Or­der; waiting greedily for the Turkish Navy, which we thought would come out, when ours was a litle more disabled. On the 26 they came out with full Sail, and in good Order, with such a hideous roaring and shouting, that we could not understand the words of Command, nor hear one another speak. Their Ships as well as their Galleys were so stow'd with men, that they were a great incumbrance to themselves.

The Wind was now at North, and favoured the Turks so, The Turks have the benefit of the Wind. that the Christians were almost blind and stifled with smoak: yet the whole Fleet kept their Posts without giving way to the Enemy. The General to give a good example and encouragement to the whole Navy, put the Fleet in the form of a Crescent and himself in the Nombril; and so expected the Infidels Armade: but they kept off at a considerable distance, still playing off their Cannon. The Wind and stream [Page 86] which favoured them against us, JUNE. 1656. was also advantagious for us against the Galleys of the Bey, that were to the Rereward of us; who also fought couragiously, and held their Post all the while. The Venetians did all they could to close up with the Turks, but could not move forward and keep their due Order, thro reason of the Wind, and violent Breakings of the Stream, occasioned on purpose by the Turks in opening of their Fleet, that beat Strongly against the Christian Navy. The Enemy in the mean while battered the Squadron of Marco Bembo with an incessant shooting of whole Tears and Broad­sides, that all crack'd again; nor had Lazaro Mocenigo, and Gerolino Malipiero the Vice-Admiral, assisted by the Prince of Parma, the lest share in this hot Ingagement. But beyond all others, memorable was the magnanimous and resolved Valour of Bernardo Bragadino Chieftain of the Contarina, a small, but a well-built Friggat: who notwith­standing the Enemy poured out great shot, like Hail upon her, yet dured all the brunt of the battel thundring with her Cannon against the Turkish Galeasses, that they were forced to remove their Post 5 several times. An admirable rare Courage! which if it either could, or had been seconded, by all the Naval Forces of the Christians then present, would have given such an Overthrow to the Infidels as no Age might paralel. Nor may we forget to commemorate the good service of the Dutch, who served as Auxiliaries in this Naval Expe­dition, and behaved themselvs very well. The Turks now seeing the prudent Conduct of the General, and undaunted Courage of the whole Fleet did all they could to draw off, fell down to the Sea­ward and retired into the Bay of Barbery, where they dropped Anchor, hoping that now they were in Sanctuary.

CHAP. V. The Wind turns in favour of the Venetians. The Turks flee and are obstructed. The brave Courage of the Galleys of Bey. General Marcello kill'd. The manly Behaviour of Lazaro Mocenigo, who looses one eie. Two Dutch Ships, to wit, Yet Wapen van Nassau, and Den David en Goliath, blown up with their own Powder. The Turkish Capitana yields. The General and disorderly Flight of the Turks. Their total overthrow, and loss on both sides.

AFter the Christians had long laboured to close up with the Turks, JUNE. 1656. but could not effect their Intentions, for the Wind blew hard at North, and North and by East, and the stream still falling with great Force upon their Ships and Galleys, rendred their Indeavours fruit­less, so that they could not do any enterprize, than barely what was done with their Ordnance, they had resolved to rest a litle: The Wind turns in favour of the Chri­stians. till on a sudden by Heavenly providence the Wind came about, and GOD, out of his unspeakable Goodness, granted the Christians a helping Hand, almost after the same manner, as about a Hundred Years agon in the famous Sea-fight against the Turks, under the Conduct of Don Iuan d' Austria, when the Turks had the Wind fair and favourable, till they came to engage with the Christians, and then by the Divine Bounty of the Everlasting GOD, the Wind turned to the advantage of the Christian Fleet; in such sort that the Christians gave them the greatest and most fatal Overthrow, that ever yet was either known, or heard of, in the world. The General Marcello had no sooner observed that the Wind blew a litle Southerly, but he gave Com­mand to set sail, and stretch the Oars, in order to give the Turks a sudden Assault, which was in obedience to his Will immediatly put in practise. The Turks being thus surprized by our silent Attacque, and finding the Wind directly against them, were dreadfully dismai'd: insomuch that upon our entring the Bay we saw them by whole flocks jump over board. Some ran with their Ships and Galleys bluntly against the Wall, others that lay at Anchor nearest the Sea, strove to drive through the Fleet and gain the Rere; and those that saw them­selves not able to retreat, left the Ships, and betook themselves to swimming; few of which escaped (for there runs a stong Tide) and most of them were carried to the Seaward, that we met whole Shoals [Page 88] of them driving in the stream, MAY. 1656. and amongst them many Christian Slaves, which we took up with our Shallops. In the mean time the Turks continued their Flight, endeavoring with their Galleys to tow away some of the ablest Ships, but the Venetians fell so furiously upon them that they were anticipated, and only made their escape with 14 which got the Castle for their Refuge: Lazaro Mocenigo, who was Volunteer and commanded the Sultan (formerly taken by the Turks) made in with great Courage, and cut off their Passage, where he lay thundring and firing his Cannon till the General Marcello broke through the middest of the Enemies Armade, put them into disorder, and kept his own Fleet in good Condition holding still in the Nombril or Center of the Crescent, joyntly with the Proveditor Barbaro Ba [...]oer, the Squadron of Maltha, with the Ships and Galeasses of Ioseppo Morosini. The Right Wing (or Horn) was commanded by Anthonio Barbers, a Captain of the Gulf, the left by Pietro Contarini. The Turks seeing themselves environed on every side with the Christians, and their Passage obstructed, began to fight with better courage than before, and defended themselves very bravely, as sometimes desperate Sol­diers do. The no­table va­lour of the Gal­leys of Bey. But above all the Galleys of Bey appeared signally stout, and for their laudable behaviour and singular valour merited as much the Honour, as the Turkish Mustapha the Dishonour of the Day. But with a Lion-like Courage, and as wise a Conduct, did a certain Bassi manifest his generous spirit, who was the same that had promised the Grand Seignior, to present him with Marcello's head, or to forfeit his own in lieu thereof (being a Greek Renegado) and assuredly he gave none reason to tax him with Remissness on his own behalf, yet fail'd in the Atchievment of his well-intended Enterprize; for when he was bound to board him, the General got assistance, and offered to enter the Bassas Galley, The Ge­neral Marcello kill'd. but was unfortunately killed with a Cannon ball, and four Gentlemen that stood next him. Zuanni Marcello seeing this, held all in silence, for fear of discouraging the Christian Armada; took the Command upon himself, and pursued the Battel hotly after the same Order, till he had privately signified the General's death to Barbaro Badoer, Proveditor of the Navy, who without loss of time stept over, and succeeded him, still holding the same Order which the General had designed. Lazaro Mocenigo in the mean while busy to obstruct the Passage of the Turks with the Sultan, ran her unluckily [Page 89] upon a Sand, near the shoar, JUNE. 1656. and at last too eager in shooting set the [...]hip on fire, having a litle before lost his Eie with a splinter.

The Sultan had aboard her divers Persons of Quality and Volun­tiers, who maximis ad minimos quitted themselves well and honourably: amongst which was, Capt. Zorzi Dadick, The Sieur Ebert, Capt. Lieutenant Gremonville, and Bernardino Canal a Reformado Captain, whereof the two last were irrecuperably wounded. During the Fight, was the Dutch Ship, called 't Wapen van Nassauw under the Command of Capt. Faustino Riva blown up with her own Powder, as also another Dutch Ship called Den David en Goliath by an unfortunate shot in her Powder Chamber, when she was ingaged with the Galleys of the Bey, and lay so close to the said Galleys that 5 of them were blown up with her. Aboard the same Ship were 44 Hollanders, and 22 left, being just the half lost. The Prince of Parma was so forward that his Companions were fain to restrain him by force, running himself oftentimes into a needless jeopardy of his Person. Remarkable was that of the General Borri being aboard the Galeass of Marco Riva, who having his young Son by him, carried him up and down to see what was worthy of note. When the Night came on, they unanimously left off on both sides, and all was still; but the next Morning by break of day, they fell on amain, and seem'd for some hours to be equally match'd as that the Day was thought dubious, but at last the Turks were fain to give over, Courage of the Turkish Capitana only the Capitana held out very manfully, till the Admiral Marco Bembo came to close up with his Lar-board where he saluted him so with Broad-sides, that he was forc'd to yield as well as the rest.

The Venetians seeing the Capitana yield gave a great shout that the Castle and Banks rang again, and so well encouraged they were that, they fell furiously in one entire Body upon the Saracens, that they forthwith betook themselves to flight, and retired to the Fort, but the Christians had so hindred their passage, that few of them got clear. The Sieur Barbaro Badoer who succeeded the General concealed his death so long untill that the Fight was over, and he able for to give the Fleet an account of the Enemies Overthrow, which was in the second Evening, pretty late.

The Venetians having now made themselves Masters of so many Ships and Galleys, were at a loss for Men enough to manage them, The loss on both sides. [Page 90] that they were fain to set the most part on fire, reserving only such as were left disabled, as a token of this notable Victory, which had cost the Common-wealth above 400 Souls, and amongst those their most faithfull and valiant General Marcello, whose (unhappy Death can never be enough lamented. The number of those that were wounded was great, but uncertain. The Sultan, and the 2 Dutch, men of War, which as we have already said were unfortunately destroyed with their own powder, was all their loss of Shipping. They took 18 Galleys, and the Maltheezes 11 Ships, besides 54 Ships that were burn'd: so that of 97 Galeasses, Ships and Galleys, only 14 were saved on the Enemies side. By this laudable Enterprise and Victory of the Venetians, above 5000 Christian Slaves were restored to Freedom. But how many of the Infidels lost their lives was uncertain, only by a rude conjecture, and a modest Calculation were computed between [...] and 6000 Men. When we went to ruminate for Spoil among their Dead we found the Fretum, or Mouth of the Darda­nelli floating so thick with Bodies, that we could not force our Boat through; but with our Oars and Boat-hook were fain to drag and draw them behind the Shallop, which again with the force of the stream were thrown on heaps one above another, like Shoals of Ice, and so came tumbling into the Boat, in spite of all the means we could use.

CHAP. VI. The Siege of Tenedos. The two Castles surrendred. A description of Tenedos, Lemnos, it's Situation, and taking in. The present state of Greece. J. Struys's arrival at Pathmos and Samos. Taken by the Turks with 6 of his Companions, and soon after ransom'd.

AFter this signal Victory, all the maimed Soldiers, together with the Corps of the General, and other Noblemen were sent back to Venice: and the new General Badoer upon this succesfull day, resolved to fire them out of their own nests. Pursuant thereto he steers away for Tenedos, which is an Island situate at the very mouth of the Propontis, or River of Constantinople; which is as it were the Key of the said River, and Commands the Passage so, that no Ships can [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 91] come in or out, against their will. There are on this Island two well fortified Places, the one on the South and the other on the North; both built after the best manner of Fortification, having Bulwarks and Walls of an incredible Thickness. We lay Siege to these, both by Sea and Land, but the main Forces we applied on the Haven-side, Tenedos besieged and sur­rendred upon Ar­ticles. for the Bay is very wide, where we came to cast our Anchors. Four­teen days long we lay battering the Castle with our Cannon from the Sea, at what time they put out a white Flag, and proposed to the General certain Articles, upon which they declared themselves free to surrender the Fort, the main of which Proposals was, ‘That all freeborn Turks should be set upon fast Land;’ and, ‘That all the Renegados should be at the mercy of the Christians.’

The said Articles were mutually counter-changed and ratified by the Heads of both Parties, and all the Turks and Moors drawn out, even the Greeks too, who were suffered to stay upon the Island but not within the Castle. The Heads of the other Castle seeing the Venetians in possession of this, put out the White Flag and desired Articles of Peace, which after a short Treatie of Commissioners on both sides were signed, existing mostly of the same Tenure with the former.

Tenedos lies near the coast of Anatolia and is called Bouchadde by the Turks. It is of a fertile Soil, and produces plenty of Fruit, Tenedos described but espe­cially Grapes, and has good store of Melons and other delicacies, which they have also in the Winter-season. And according to it's small extent (not exceeding 28 English miles in circuit) has abun­dance of Cattel. It is beset with Hills towards the Sea on every side, but within arable, and fit for tillage. The General committed it to the Trust of Seignior Loredano, a Gentleman of Venice, with a Garrison of 700 Italians, and others.

Tenedos being now in possession of the Venetians, Lemnos or Scali­mene where si­tuated. we set Sail for Scalimene, or Lemnos, which we found about 6 Leagues distant from the other, being Seated directly before the mouth of the Channel, and therefore a Place in which the Turks had reposed great Confi­dence. This Island has severall small Towns upon it, as Condea, Which was of old the chief Town, and called Ephestias. Bellon. Cochino, [Page 92] Palso Castro, and others, beside 75 Villages and Hamlets. When we came before the Place in order to lay Siege to it, we found a Fort having 700 men in Garrison; Lemnos Surrend­red upon dishono­rable Terms. but the Sou-bassa hearing that Tenedos was already taken in by the Christian Armade, and finding himself incapable to defend the Place by reason that all communication was cut off, he desired to treat by Deputies, and without ever a shot sur­rendred the Fort and Island upon dishonourable Conditions.

described. Lemnos, or Scalimene as it is now called, has Thracia on the North, and the Hill Athon towards the West, and as we have said, lies not far from Lemnos. It is no whit inferior to any Island in the Aegean-Sea, for a wholsom Air, and a good Soil: it affoards all kind of Grain and Puls, as also Almonds, Oil, Lactuaries, and plenty of Sheep, which for their Wool is no small profit to the Inhabitants: and from hence comes that excellent and usefull Georg. Agricola in his Dialogue of Mettals intitled Berman­nus givs this rela­tion of that Earth, Pastillos praeterea ibidem vidi ex eadem urbe portatos, coloris fere ful­vi, & li­teris Tur­cicis si­gnatos quos ob id Ter­ram Si­gillatam appel­lant: quine­tiam Lemnia illa terra olim imagine caprae signabatur. And a litle afterward he adds this. Turcae eam un [...] pestis remedium esse asserentes, ita magni aestimant, ut alter alteri muneris loco ipsam donet. See more ab [...] this excellent mineral in Dioscorides, and in Gallens 9 th Book of Simples. Earth, called Terra Lemnia, or Terra Sigillata, which is so highly prized by those that profess Physic. The Inhabitants and Peasantry are Greeks, which may not live in any fortified Place. In this Island has been a famous Labrynth, whereof the Ruins yet appear in some places. The chief City thereof is called also Scalimene, and is indifferent strong. When the General left the Island he constituted a Governour and sent some Ships to cruse through the Archipelago, and urge the payment of the Arrearages in the Tributary Places, of which the Venetians were now Masters, and light also upon such as were free, for so unhappy are the Islands of Greece that they must pay Tribute both to the Turks and Venetians, which is a great oppression to so poor a People.

Greece is at this day as fertile as ever, but is greatly deficient of it's former Power and Wealth, by the Dominion of the Turks and per­petual Wars. As for the People they are very urban and good [...] converse with. The Customary Habit of the Merchants and Citize [...] is as follows. They wear on their Heads a long red Cap, with a fold hanging down before, and affect long hair, although some I have seen shorn, and with a Turbant like Mahometans. Their Breeches long and narrow demitted to the calf of the leg, and litle red boots above their stockings. Above all a Coat like the Persians but without a Girdle. In stead of a Cloak they wear a Coat with long narrow [Page 93] sleevs hanging down to the middle of the Thighs, which they seldome or never put their arms into. The Peasants also wear long red Caps as the Merchants and Citizens, but wide linen or Cotton Breeches like Trouzers. Their Gentlewomen wear a white Silk or Cotton Sharf about their Head, hanging over their back and shoulders like Nuns. Their Stockings are mostly scarlet and neatly embroyded, their shoes with litle handsom heels, and sometimes for their more easy going with slaps. Those that are of ability wear a kind of Boddice or wast-coat of cloth of Gold, and above that an upper-Coat with long Silk sleeves, this is girded about the middle with Ribbons. Some there are also which wear a short silk Jacket or Justicore coming down to the calf of the legs, their shifts hanging down 2 palms below that.

Being now as we already told you, sent to collect Tribute, the first Island we came at was Pathmos, Arrival at Path­mos. the place where the H. Apostle Iohn, and the beloved Disciple of our Lord, was confined, or banished to, and where he wrote his Revelations. When we went shoar, they show'd us a litle Chappel in the cleft of a Rock, which (as the Greeks ascertain'd to us) was the very place where he saw those Heavenly Visions; as also a stone which lay above his Bed. This [...]tone the Greeks sell, and make great profit of it, being stampt into powder is reputed the best Remedy that ever was known, for a Quartan Ague. The City Pathmos is founded upon a Hill about the middle of the Island, and has within it a very fair Monastery with the Tomb of Chrysolodos the Founder thereof. The Island is both Fruit­ful, populous and well built, on the Sea-side is a litle strong Sconce to defend the place against Pyracy, but when they heard of the Over­ [...]row of the Turks, did not in the lest oppose themselves against us, [...]ing overaw'd by the Cadis.

When we had dispatched at Pathmos, we steer'd away for Samos, which is an Island right over against the Gulf of Smirna, to see if we could meet with any Saiks, or other Turkish Shipping, and according [...] our expectation met with two rich Prizes, laden with raw Silk, and other precious Commodities. Samos. After we had Sail'd to and again for 5 or 6 days, we came to Samos to demand the Contributions as at other places. When we were arrived in this Road our Commander [...]hought good to supply us with Water and other necessaries, The Boat sent ashoar. upon which I and 19 other of our Ships-folk were sent ashoar. Ten of our [Page 94] Company were sent up to the Village to buy Provision and Refresh­ments, and the rest, amongst whom I my self was one, were to take in Water, and manage the Boat. But hardly had we taken in two Boat­fulls but we saw a Brigandine making toward us, stow'd full of Men: whereupon we concluded it was no time to dally, and therefore threw our Things aboard, The Boat inter­cepted by the Turks. and betook our selvs to rowing as hard as we could drive towards the Ship. But the Turks having far more hands than we, and consequently swifter at rowing, came in between us and the Ship, which lay half a Dutch League from Land. We then seeing litle hopes of getting aboard, wheel'd about and made towards Land; but were as hotly pursued by the Turks, and seeing the Brigantine within pistol-shot of us astern, we jump'd over board and betook our selves to running. But when I saw that I could not run any longer, I was forced to seek a lurching place, for my feet were sore in running through Thorns and Thistles. Our Commander and Folk aboard seeing how cases stood, came nearer the shoar and shot at the Infidels with their Guns from aboard, tho they held not up to pursue us. When I had lay a litle there, I began to peep out, to see if the coast was clear, but was spied by 4 Turks, who were hunting after us, and seeing no mean to make my escape was forced to submit. When they had tied my hands behind my back, The Au­thor and 6 more of the Com­pany taken. as they had done with 6 more of the Company, they dragg'd us away to the Brigadine, where coming aboard we met with more civility from the Captain than we could indeed expect. They were also so civil to us when they took us that they did not so much as take a rag of cloaths from us, for I had then 25 Ducats about me which I still kept. The Captain, who was a person of a generous Spirit, and with one compassionat, seeing us in such distress and consternation, said, Be not grieved for the lo [...] of your Liberty, for I will not use you unkindly, neither shall you suffer want for any thing, that is needfull if we our selves are able to supply you. However he brought us to Rhodes where the Plague raged with great violence and consequently the Slave-market very low, for we could not yield him above 100 Pieces of Eight. But the Captain not willing to part with us at so low a price brought us to Great Scio, where the Turkish Armada then lay, thinking so to get a better Sum, but found it quite to the contrary: whereupon we pray'd him to sell us to our own Ship. Well, said he, if your Commander, or your Countreymen will buy you, [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 95] I am content, their money is as good as another's. With this Resolution we were brought back again to Samos, where when we were arrived, sent a Letter to the Commander, humbly praying him that he would have the goodness to redeem us: upon which he made answer, ‘That he was well inclined to do it, but that the Ship was at that time very scarce of Money, and that he could not make up above 1800 Pieces of eight, which if that would redeem us 7, we might strike a bargain with the Captain.’ Upon this answer we were very glad, and under good hopes of coming out of the Hands of the Turks. The Captain of the Brigantine observing that we had got an answer from aboard, asked us, What news? will your Commander redeem you or not? Yes, said one of us, if you will be reasonable with us, we shall find means to be redeemed, but otherwise not. Hereupon he deman­ded 2000 Pieces of eight, whereat we seemed to be astonished, and bad him 800 withall declaring that our Proffer seemed more to the matter than his Demands; but he would not seem to hearken to that. We then rais'd it to 1000 but he told us, That it was but Labour lost unless we bad something more to the purpose, and at last declared, ‘That for 1300 we should be redeemed, provided we would pay him that day, but if not, that the next day he would go out of Town, and sell us to those that would bid most, be who they will.’ We seeing it now brought to a good end, and sensible of our abilitie, of performance, took him at the word, lest some other resolution should take him in the head: and presently put out a white Flag. The Commander thereupon sent out a Shallop, The Au­thor and his Com­panions ransomed which came row­ing towards us, till they came within speech of us, and understanding the Conditions of Redemption row'd back again to the Ship, to bring us the Money for which we had covenanted with our Patron; upon this we were again Freemen and thanked GOD for his divine bounty towards us. The other men had stay'd at Samos so long in quiet, till they were fetch'd away by the Ships Company when the Brigan­tine was gone.

When we had don, and dispatched our affairs in the Archipelago, we set Sail towards Venice, tho our Ship was so leaky, that we were fain to pump continually, however by the help of GOD we arrived Safe. But by the way were forced to put in at a certain Island right over the City Maddonna, not daring to trust our selves any longer [Page 96] at Sea, till we had (as well as we then and there were able) stop'd some of her leaks, which were principally at the Bow. But our Carpenter notwithstanding all he did, could not stop the main leak being in the worst place it might be in, for no great Nails would hold, insomuch that the Commander set me at work to stop it which I did with Sail-cloth 2 or three times folded, and fastned artificially and firm, for which he gave me a good reward.

CHAP. VII. The Author admitts himself again into the Service of the Venetians. Arrival at Corfu with an account of it's Strength, Bulwarks, Sconces and other Fortifi­cations, near, and about the City. Fertility of the Island. Arrival at Cepha­lonia, it's Fertility, Situation and Strength. Arrival at Sante, an account of its Strength, its Villages, Scarcity of fresh Water. Arrival at Cerigo: Situation of that Island, Reliques, or Ruins of the Temple of Venus.

SO soon as I had received the Arrears of my Wages at Venice, I hired my self again into the Venetian Armade for chief-or upper-Sail-maker, the Armade then lying before the Dardanelli. We had a Pro­veditor aboard us, so that we put in at all the Tributary Islands under the Seigniory of Venice, to urge the payment of the Arrearages. And in the first place Corfu, Corfu. an Island lying in the latitude of 34 degr. 45 min. The City may well be reputed one of the best fortified Sea-towns in Europe, being encompassed with a strong Wall and higher than ordinary, built altogether after the modern Fortification, and well furnished with great Ordnance. It is moreover secured with two Castles, or rather Sconces, one towards the Sea barely named, The Castle, the other on the Land-side called, Castello nuovo, or New Castle, That Fort which lies towards the Sea is built upon a high Rock, and munited with 3 Walls and 5 Bulwarks, whereof one is built against the Sea, and beats off the Floods and Billows. This Sconce, or Fort, has 3 Gates, that on the West is called, Porta di Castrado, that toward the Sea, Porta di Mandrahico, and the third Porta Real which is very narrow, and has a Draw-bridge. This Port also serves for a privat Sally in time of need, and is the place where they goe out at to the other Fort, for they can have communication [Page 97] and assist each other if attacqu'd, IUNE. 1657. by certain cavernal or subterranean passages, wrought through the Rocks. They lie about 1000 paces from each other and do not only serve for their own Defence, but also command the whole Island, and that next the Sea of such power that it might over aw the Town, being well provided with all kinds of Ammonition, and Cannon which they cast themselves. There are besides these Sconces several other Fortifications, and inferior Forts, Seated on high Rocks, and Walls proportionable to the other, encompassed also with very deep Ditches which receive their Water from the Sea. Corfu is also of it self very strong and divided into 3 several Wards as Spileo, Urio nuovo, and Spianato. The high Forti­fications have no Fountain Water that is good, and are therefore fain to make use of Rain Water which they receive and keep in cisterns and pits like those of Amsterdam: but without the Walls of Corfu, is a certain fountain or Well which they call Cardacchio, that affoards good Water and very clear. Upon this Island stand 68 Villages and Hamlets, all reasonably well peopl'd. The Venetian Garrison as it then appeared by their Muster-roll consisted of 400 light Horse and 900 Infantry. The Haven is very fair and covenient, and comes to the middle of the Island on that side which faces the main Continent. On the other side lies Butriato a noted place for Fishing. On this Island is much Which I presume is either the same, or much at one with Cavear, or Ichary prepared by the Mosco­vians. Arrival at Cepha­lonia. Bottarge made, which is a Dish prepared of the Roes of Sturgeon, salted, dried, and for the longer and better preservation thereof dipt in Wax. Here is also much Oil of Olives, or Oleum omphacinum made, and the Vine well cultivated. It is also very fruitfull, affoarding plenty of Oranges, Lemmons, Citrons &c. besides Honey, Wax and Salt for which Commodities this Island is very famous abroad.

From Corfu we set sail for Cephalonia, where there is only one small City, raised on a high ground at the South-end of the Island, and well fortified; but the Haven thereto belonging is large and conve­nient. There appear the Ruins of three other Cities, which are said to be dismantled upon the continual Jarrs of the Inhabitants amongst themselves and at length reduced to such a poor remnant. Besides this City is a litle Fort, in which they repose no small trust. It is situated in the latitude of 38 degr. and 29 min. and is almost of a triangular form. The East-end faces the Cape of Ciarenzo, Situation and Form a Promontory of [Page 98] Morea or Peleponessus. The North-point, Capo Guiscardo, confronts with Staumara, and the west-angle or Capo Sidro looks toward the main Continent of Affrica: Between this angle and Ciarenza which lies to the South-west is a large Bay, making a fit Harbour not far from the City Cephalonia, called Argoftoli, where a great number of Ships may very commodiously ride at anchor. At the entrance of this Gulf is a small Island called Guardiana, which is fortified with a little Moot or Castelet, which they call Nasso. They have great scarcity of fresh or spring Water in this Island, which is nevertheless of a rich and fat Soil, and good pasturage for Sheep which there abound. It produ­ceth also vast quantities of Grain, Wine, Oil, Manna, Wax, Honey, Flax and Silk, besides the great plenty of Currans, which is the Staple-Commoditie of the Land.

CHAP. VIII. The Author's arrival at Sante, or Xante, It's admirable Strength, Villages, and great Scarcity of fresh Water. Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in stead of Water. Arrival at Cerigo; Situation of that Island. Reliques of the Temple of Venus. Arrival at Candia, with it's Situation, A Description of the Citie, as to it's Strength, Inhabitants, the most eminent Buildings and Churches, Climat, Soil, Vintage, Fruits, Vegetables, Cattel, Fowl, Plenty of Silk and other Commodities, as also the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians. A De­scription of Standia. The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Argiers, Tripoli, Theunis and Zoëli. The Fort of Zouaschi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo. The Turks attacque Tenedos, but in vain. The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli. The Beginning of the Ingagement. The Turkish Emperour comes with an Army of 20000 Horse, and 80000 Foot down to the shore, where from a high Tent he sees' the In­gagement. The Turks loose their Posts, and Sail off. The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo, who are unluckily killd by the fall of a Sail yard. Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loss and Gains on both sides.

THe Proveditor which we had aboard not willing to loose much time, made but short delay at Cephalonia, for he had not much time to spend according to his Order and Instructions to go to the Armade, wherefore after a short aboad we set Sail, and steer'd away for Xante.

[Page 99] Xante is an Island lying in the latitude of 38 degr. about 13 [ English] leagues from Cephalonia. On this Island is a City conteining about 4000 Houses, or rather Cottages, without chimneys, that they say, is by reason of frequent Earthquakes, of which they are in daily jeopardy: but the Muniments as well in respect of Site, as Strength are very considerable; for the Cittadel is built upon a high Hill, and what by Nature and what by Art, Strength of Xante. seems to be almost inaccessible, well provided also with Ordnance and Ammu­nition of War suitable. On this Island are several Capes, the most eminent whereof are Capo del Guardo on the South, and Capo de Tiri on the East: between which two Capes lies a Commodious Harbour, called Porto de Chietto, which has a good Road for Anchorage at 8 fathom Water. Xante has 45 Villages and Hamlets whereof the most principal lie toward the Sea, to wit, St. Chietto, Littachia, Pigalachia, Villages Sculicado, Saint Nicholo and Natte. The last of these has a Harbour fit to receive 100 Galleys. In the hilly part of the Island are several Convents, Cloysters and Religious Houses of the Greek Church, who have also a Bishop here as well as the Romanists, but the Greeks exceed the Italians in number, and consequently have their Religion in greater splendour. You are no sooner come ashoar but you are met by a parcel of Iews, who shall ask you if you have any money to change. These deal in any contemptible Traffic, but especially in Slaves, when any Turkish Saiks, or other Shipping is brought up by English, French or Hollanders.

Xante is of a very fertile Soil and fruitfull, in nothing inferiour to Cephalonia, yet exceeds it in Quality and Plenty of Wine, Fertility of Soil. Scarcity of Water. Dough moistned with Wine. but yet scarcer of Water, insomuch that the Inhabitants are sometimes con­strained to knead their Dough with Wine, whereof they make their Bread. Here is also prepared the delicate Botarges, especially in Iuly and August, when the Sturgeon comes from the Archipelago. The Land is very populous, and all go armed; so that when the Turkish Corsairs send some men ashoar to take Slaves, do frequently change Fates with them: and for that end the Venetians maintain 70 or 80 Horse, day and night to ride about the Coast. We also brought hither some new Infantry to relieve the old.

From Xante we sail'd to Cerigo which lies in 36 degr. and 45 min. directly over against Capo Saint Angelo, before the Gulf of Colochino; Arrival at Cerigo [Page 100] on the other side it has Candia about 13 Leagues distant, insomuch that the Italians say, It's Situ­ation. Congo is a good Corps du guarde and a Lanthorn for the Christians to enter the Archipelago. On the south-east side is a strong Fort built upon a proclive Rock, and has but one way to enter it. The nether-City is populous enough; and the Inhabitants very diligent in their respective callings. Here they show'd us the Foun­dations and Ruins of a famous Temple dedicate to the Goddes Venus, Ruins of the Tem­ple of Venus. in the times of Gentilism. The Land is very hilly, but the Valleys rich and fertile, having one Well of very good Water. The Inha­bitants are chiefly Greeks, except the Garrisons, and the Governour, who is always a Venetian Nobleman.

Candia.From Cerigo we set sail for Candia the renowned City of Crete, which now is also called Candia. The Island lies about 47 degr. Northerly latitude, and is about 200 English land-miles in length, lying almost East and West. It has many Creeks, and abundance of fair Cities, of which the most noted are Candia, Canea, Retimo, Sitio, Apicormo, Chy­samo, Melipotamo, Garahuse, besides a great number of unwalled Towns, which they say amount to 650, all the inferior Villages and smaller Granges excluded out of the number. The whole Island has been heretofore under subjection of the Venetians, but at that time when I was there, the Turks were Masters of all except the City Candia it self, which was then under the Venetians and a few strong Holds as appendences on the Town, which they held (as is universally known) for a considerable time together against the Ottoman Forces. The Fortifications have been and are frequently altered, according to the Discretion of the respective Governours: and is from the very first Foundation famous for it's admirable rare Site, and natural strength. It lies in a fair flat Countrey: the East and North Angles fronting the Sea. Strength of Candia Upon that Angle which lies to the northward was an impre­gnable Fort or Castle, which had not only all the Fortifications that could be thought usefull, or any way advantageous for the Town, but also the Sea for a further strength, which encompassed it as a Mote. The same Castle has not only the Command of the Haven, but also the Sea on both the right and left side. Between this Castle and the City was a Wall of 20 foot broad, on which the Soldiers marched, from the one to the other. Besides this the Town was munited with divers Ramparts, Bulwarks and other Fortifications [Page 101] without; that it seemed to me at that time, and since, the greatest folly in the World, for the Turks to spend so much Treasure and loose so many of their best Soldiery in such a long Siege, and so little hopes or encouragement of taking it in; although at last they are become Masters of it. The Citizens are Greeks, as are most of the Inhabitants throughout the whole Island; but the Garrisons and Gentry, Venetians; besides a great Concurrency of Strangers from all parts of the Levant, which make the City very populous. The most eminent Buildings, are the Pallace of the General, that of the Bishop, which for its Antiquity and magnificent work is well worth seeing, the Pallaces of several Noblemen, and the Churches, which are 8 in number, to wit, St Mark, St Francis, St Paul, St George, St Mary, St Catharine, St Rochus and St Titus amongst which the first is the Cathedral. The Greeks have also their Churches, but those so mean, that the best which is allowed them is much inferior to the poorest of those which the Romans reserve for their own use. Besides these there is not much in the City worth Observation. As to the long Siege and Storming of this City 't were needless for me to give you any account, since it has been from the very beginning traced along, and fully written by others.

The Air of Candia is temperate enough, Climat, but on that side facing Affrica is something hot, and rendred unwholsom by southerly Winds: for which reason most of the Towns are built on that side of the Island which lies next to the Archipelago. Soil, The Soil is exceeding good, and all kinds of Grain and Pulse take kindly well, insomuch that sometimes, one piece of ground affoards two Crops in one year. Yet the Inhabitants are more inclinable to the planting and cherishing of the Vine, which they cultivate with all imaginable diligence, that being far more profitable than the propagation of Grain and other Husbandry, their Malmsey, Vintage. Red and white Wines being exported every where, and reputed the best that Earth can produce. But they have two sorts of Malevaise or Malmsey, differing greatly both in tast and quality: the better sort is that which grows about Retimo, that they boil so soon as the Grape is ripe, and are very curious in the preparation and ordering of it; but that about Candia and Canea, but ordinary, for there they let the Grapes be rath ripe before they pluck' em, and therefore boil them not: but the Wine that comes [Page 102] from them has a kind of slimy matter in it of which it, is not to be pu­rified. Here I have seen the Wine-stocks grow thicker, than any where else, which is a great Argument of the excellent Soil, with which this Island is blessed; and besides that the vast bigness of the Bunches, Huge and delicate Grapes. weighing mostly 8 or 10 pound a piece, and those so deli­cate that after I had once tasted of these could not for some years after so much as tast the Spanish. And not only Grapes, but also every other fruit the Land affoards is passing good and delicate, insomuch that not only the Turkish Emperour but all the Princes and Potentates near this Island have their Fruits from hence for Table use and Banquet. Whole Groves and Woods I have seen several Leagues in compass, having little or nothing but Trees bearing the best kinds of Fruit, as Citrons, Vast plen­ty of Fruit. And of Cypress Wood. Pomegranates, Oranges, Apricocks, Figs, Almonds, Olives and many sorts of Apples, Pears, and Nuts. Cypress wood is in this noble Island in greater plenty than in Cypres it self, which they do not only use for Timber, which gives a very amiable smell, but also for Fewel. The Common pasturage which the Inhabitants neither use for Grain nor the Vine, is all grown over with Rosemary, Thyme, Camomile, Abroton, or Southern Wood, and other Herbs which the Apothecaries use. Nay, the very Weeds which with us have no sent, affoard here a most amiable flavour, for which Candia is often called an Earthly Paradise. Cattel and Fowl Wild and Tame. All kind of Cattel like well, espe­cially Sheep and Goats which run together in incredible Flocks. Hares, Coneys, Heath-hens and Partridges abound here. The Woods and Hills are stored with 3 or 4 sorts of Deer, and the Rivers with Fish. Fish. The Honey which Candy affoards is preferred before all other in the World, and that by reason of the abundance of Thyme and other choice Herbs; as also the various Blossoms of Pomgranats, Citrons, Oranges, &c. and consequently Wax is a great Commodity amongst them. The Land 'tis true affoards not only Salt and Lactua­ries for the Inhabitants themselves, but also for the neighbouring Islands in the Archipelago, whence they draw considerable profit. But far greater profit they have from their Silk, for Mulberries grow here in vast plentie, of which every School-lad knows the Silk-worm is fed and nourished. Cotton, Wool, Honey, Wine, Vinegar and Fruits are exported hence to every Maritim Countrey in Europe. [Page 103] As for the Candians (or Which St Paul seem'd to take no­tice of in his Epistle to Titus Bishop of Crete, citing that of Epime­nides. [...]. Sec. Tit. 1.12. Standia a small Island not inha­bited. Cretians) they are naturally inclined to Laziness, and more addicted to vouluptuous lives than their neigh­bours; They are also great affecters of a glass of Wine, yet not so easily subdued, as the Phlegmatic Hollanders. As for their Habit, those that are of the best quality ape the Venetians, the vulgar sort and Pe­santry retain still the old Greekish mode, only their heads are for the most part shaved, which to supply they wear a thin Silk vail, about the breadth of an ordinary handkercheif, and above that a great, heavy hat.

Our Proveditor having finished his Charge at Candy, we set sail and steer'd away for Standia an Island, lying about 2 or 3 Leagues from the North-coast, but not inhabited; However the Venetians in their ordinary Course and Traverse through the Archipelago put in here, because of it's commodious Road or Bay; and therefore used as a Rendevouz for the benefit of Communication. After we had lay at anchor a few days we weighed and sail'd with the whole Fleet for the Dardanelli to give the Turks battail: But I must mind you, how that by the way we met with a Squadron of Ships, which were sent by those of Argiers, Tripoli, Thunis and Zoile, for the Assistance of the Turkish Armada. So soon as we had got sight of them, we put out Turkish Colours and hover'd a little, that they might come up to us; which they seeing made all the Sail they possibly could, till they came near us, at what time they began to suspect that they had got a wrong Sow by the tail, and so indeavoured to go off: but Lazaro Mocenigo, the General seeing them steer to the starboard, made towards them, and coming within Cannon shot fired a Gun, which did so disorder them, that they thought better to stay together in one entire Fleet and try their valour, than to break their Squadron, and accordingly put themselves in a convenient Posture, in order to receive Battel. Lazaro Moceni­go [...]ights the Ar­gierines Tripole­zes, &c. Upon this fell a very hot Ingagement: which lasted more than a full Watch; by which time the Venetians had taken and sunk 4 Ships, 3 whereof were of their first Rate, and the remainder being 12 in all, were fain to betake themselves to the Turkish Havens, but were so disabled that they were not in a long time fit either for Sailing or Service. After this fortunate Enterprise, the General sail'd directly for Zouaschi, being a strong and well fortified Sea-Town, Takes in Zouasch and a Nest of Turkish Pyrats, lying on the coast of Anatolia: which after a short attacque we [Page 104] took in and plundered. From hence we departed for Tenedos where to our great Joy we had the report, which we heard before our de­parture from Venice confirmed; which was, That the Turks were sadly foil'd in in their attacquing of that Island, which we had taken in not long before (as was said Pag 91) The Sum of the Attacque was after this manner. When the Turks had got notice that Tenedos was surren­dred to the Venetians, they sent a Fleet consisting of 33 Galleys, 3 Galeasses and several Brigantines to retake it, where so soon as the said Fleet was arrived they lay Siege to the Castles both by Water and by Land, Tenedos besieged by the Turks. but were at last fain to remove the Siege, leaving some Hun­dreds of Dead behind them upon the Island, besides all the damage which the Fleet received, who also according to the relation given us must necessarily have many Dead and Wounded. When they ha [...] drawn off the Siege and imbarqued their Land-forces, the Weathe [...] grew very tempestuous, and the Sea boistrous high, insomuch that 3 Galleys and 4 Saiks were cast away and few of the men saved.

July. The Turkish Armada comes out of the Darda­nelli. The In­gagementFour moneths long we tarried at Tenedos before the Infidel Armade came out, which happened on the 27 of July. Their Fleet consisted of 33 Galleys (amongst which was one of an unwonted greatness called the Royalio) 9 Maons, 22 Ships and 150 Saiks, with a huge number of Soldiers and Marriners. At the Approachment the Turks weather'd us and kept to the Windward, and indeavoured to break our Order, but the Venetians to get the Advantage of the Wind, tacked and turned so long that they brought the Turks to the Lee-ward, which having gain'd they fell upon the Enemy very hot, and with the dawning of the day made the Turks yield their Posts and betake themselves to the Cape of Troy, upon which the Fight ceased till the next morning, when the Ingagement held on sharper and heavier than the day before. The Turks for a while had the advantage of the Wind, which nevertheless turned against them, as it did the year before, about the same place (mentioned Pag. 75) Meanwhile Who was af­terward strangled by a Si­cilian. Gentle­men. Oron then Primo Vizier of the Turkish Empire, came down to secure the Strand, with an Army of 20000 Cavalry and 80 Thousand Foot, and set down near Troy, where he had caused two Sconces to be made, as well as the shortness of this Warning would allow. The Maltheezes were the first that drew on to give battel, and so seconded by the Venetians. The Ottoman Armada knowing that the Emperour was [Page 105] himself a Spectator (who together with the Primo Vizier, JVLY. 1657. stood upon a high Tent made on purpose) behaved themselves admirably well. The Grand Scignior comes to See the Fight. However the Venetians (without respect to the Land Forces which battered them heavily with their Cannon) came so close to the Enemies Fleet, and withall ply'd their Guns so rank that they stranded several of their Galleys, upon which the Men stept ashoar and joyn'd themselves to the Land Army. The Primo Vizier seeing the Fleet continually loose men, partly by their forsaking the Navy, and partly by the great Slaughter aboard the Shipping, used his utmost diligence to stop the Deserters, and recruit the Naval Army, but all to little advantage; for the Christians pursued their Enterprize with such an ardency and vigour, that they prevented them: and not to be slack when such an apt occasion presented, fired and sunk a considerable number of the Galleys and Saiks, the Turks still retiring further and further towards the Coast. And such was the Zeal of the renowned Mocenigo, when he saw them close to the Coast, he made an intercourse with 3 Ships and 5 Galleys, to fetch them off, that he made himself an unavoidable scope for the Enemies Cannon at Land, which was so tended against his Galley that she took Fire, and him­self with the valorous Marco Bembo Admiral of the Ships, The bold attempt of Moce­nigo and Bembo in which they are both kill'd. both killed with the fall of a Yard, upon which of an instant the Galley was blown up with 400 Souls aboard. This fatal mischance was seconded by another, which was a Galley that sank outright. This was all the loss that the Venetians suffered, as to Shipping in general. The Turks lost 6 Galleys, 4 Ships, 4 Mahons and 50 Saiks. The rest drew off indeavouring to conjoin with the Land-forces where the Proveditor Badoer, who by due course and reversion carried the Standard of S. Mark, gave them an egregious blow, and sunk, burn'd and and took several Galleys and Saiks; which ended, the Venetians set sail for Tenedos, where they repair'd their damages. The Turks according to their own con­fession lost between 8 and 9 Thousand Men beside 600 and odd Captives, amongst whom was an eminent Bashaw, and delivered 567 Christian Slaves.

CHAP. IX. The Venetian Armade appear before Napoli di Malvazia, where they attacque a Redoubt, which is surrendred. The City treats with the Governour. The Fleet appears before Santorini; 2 terrible Earthquakes: Wine good and cheap. The Author sent ashoar to buy Provision. The Fleet under Sail. The Turks come upon the Island, & the Author in danger of being made Slave; hidden by the Greeks, and brought Embro to with a Barque. Arrival before Nicsia, The Ruins of Apollos Temple. Arrival at Metelino, it's Situation and Strength; plenty of Marble, Cypres wood, Wine, and Cattel. Nicsia the Winter-haven for the Turkish Galleys. S. Georgia de Scyro. Delos: Reliques and Ruins of Heathenish Temples and Images of Apollo, Minerva and Diana. The Castle of Tenos blown up with it's own Powder. The Island Milo, it's Situation, Strength, Harbours, Inhabitants, Religion, store of Provision and Victuals. The Ship De Princes, springs a leak. The Author goes aboard a Privateer, leaves her and goes for Holland.

IVLY. 1668.AFter we had repaired our Dammages, caulked and trimmed our Ships and Galleys, refreshed and supplied our selves with ne­cessaries, Arrival of the Fleet be­fore Na­poli di Malva­ [...]ia. we left Tenedos, and came before Napoli di Malvazia with our whole Fleet, consisting of 36 Ships of War, 6 great Galeasses, and 40 Galleys; some of which last belonged to Rome, and others to Maltha.

Napoli di Malvazia is a City situate in the Bay of Morea, right over against Canea, on a barren Rock, close to the main Continent, to which it is annexed with a stone-bridge, upon that was a strong Redoubt, fortified with 12 large Brass Guns, which stood very well for the safeguard of the Town, and served in place of a Cittadel. Our General immediately gave order to approach the said Redoubt with our Galeasses, The Re­doubt battered, and break it with our Cannon; which was accordingly done. The whole day we lay battering it on both sides, with a strenuous resolution, till towards night the Soldiery within saw that they could not hold out any longer to defend themselves, left the Fortlet, and retreated into the Town; which we perceiving scaled the Walls and took away the Ordnance. The rest of the Ships and Galleys drew up close to the Kay, and sca­led. where the Ordnance (from the Top of a Rock where they were placed, and in which they repose their main Trust) could do us no mischief, for they ever shot beyond us. When [Page 107] we had made a great Breach through the Wall, the General gave Charge that the Soldiers, with the help of some of the Marriners should storm the Town that night. Upon this mandate all the best and most resolute Seamen joyntly with the Soldiery, went ashoar and entered the City, but the Governour sensible, that the Redoubt was disabled, the Bridge broken down, Communication hindred on the Land side, the whole Fleet before the Town on the Water-side, our Men in the City, the Garrison scarce of Men, and summarily not in a capa­city to defend himself, at last puts out a white Flag, and so treated with the General: but what the sum or purport of that Treaty was, we could not learn, for the matter was held privy; and whether the General had betray'd his Trust, in making of a disadvantageous Co­venant for lucres sake, or some other strange affair occurr'd at that time, I cannot resolve my Reader; certain I am that a Truce was made between them, for we fired not a Gun after the Deputy left the Ship. It seemed to us no small wonder, that so brave an Enterprize should be abandoned at such a rate, without so much as repairing the loss, that the Common-wealth suffered in this short Attacque, espe­cially, that being one of the most eminent and absolutely the most convenient Place for an Asylum, or refuge, upon occasion: and not only commands all the maritim Towns of Canea, but is likewise the only Magazine of the whole Land, through which all Wares and Merchandises are transmitted, coming from Sea; and is in short the Key of that Gulf. But this is a Chapter too hard for me to read, and the mysteries of such Politicians are sometimes so abstruse, as every head cannot penetrate or unriddle.

When we had removed the Siege of Napoli di Malvazia, Zanto­rini. we set sail for Zantorini, which is a fertile Island, but subject to Earth-quakes and influence of Meteors. In the year of Grace 1507 happened a dreadfull Earth-quake, which destroyed one Moyety of the Place, and subverted all the Strand-countrey: and afterwards in the year 1653 happened another, which destroyed another Mediety, or half of what was left, at what time not only Men and Beasts, but also whole Mountains and Villages were washed away with the inundation of the Sea. There are at this day many of the Inhabitants which are strucken blind with Lightning. It is bad coming to anchor about this Island, by reason of the steepness near the Coast, having within a [Page 108] Pistol-shot from the shoar upwards of 70 or 80 fathom Water. Here is the Staple for Cotton-stockings, which are fine and very well woven, and so cheap that you may buy them at 6 ^d a pair single. Wine is here likewise incredibly cheap and good, being sold at half a Piece of eight the Bariglia, and all kinds of Provision proportio­nably. Which is a mea­sure con­taining a­bout 6 quarts less than half a Hogs­head. This moved our Commander to send me ashoar to buy some Sheep and Wine, and accordingly I went to a Village that was about two miles from the Fleet, where I was no sooner arrived but I heard the Admiral fire a Gun, at which I was mainly perplex'd, for I knew by that, that the Fleet was ready to depart, and ran as fast as ever I could towards the shoar: but before I could come there, they were under sail. When I saw that there was no hopes to get to the Fleet, I turned back, but not without fear of being taken, knowing that this Island was but 3 or 4 leagues from Scio, and that it was often visited by the Turks. After I had been here 4 days and as many nights, came 2 Turkish Brigantines to receive Contribution-money, which I understanding ran into the Woods to hide my self, but it seems one Pick-thank or other had told them that a Venetian was left ashoar (perhaps to excuse them of their Quota) they began to make inquiry after me; and would needs insist upon the Greeks to be responsible for me; they told them that I had made my escape by night in a Barque; which never­theless would not pacifie them till they had dawbed the Captain in the Fist, which closed his Eies and shut his Mouth effectually. So soon as the Brigantines were out of sight, the Greeks fearing some trouble might ensue, brought me with a Barque to Embro, where the Venetian Fleet lay, and gave me my Provision aboard with me which I had bought for 32 Rix-dollars. Upon my arrival the Commander gave them 2 Pieces of eight for their pains, and glad he was to receive me so, and they no less joyfull to be rid of me; for the Turks had already taken a Civil Magi­strate of the Greeks into custody, with his Son being but a child, who might upon my being found there, after they had denied me, have had hard mesure; and they nevertheless forced to deliver me up at last; which if they had, the Admiral of the Venetians would have plundered the Town, and taken them all for Slaves; so that these poor People are in a worse and a more pitifull state under both, than they would be, if they were entirely under one.

While we lay before Embro, the Fleet was divided into two parts, [Page 109] and sent for the respective Islands to get in the Contributions: the one part went for Stampalia, or Astypalaea, which is one of the Cyclades, and from thence to Nicsia, an Island about 7 Dutch leagues in length, Arrival at Nicsia. and as many in breadth, for it is almost four Square: the North-side is montanous, but towards the South flat and arable. On this Island are several Reliques of Gentilism and Idolatry; and amongst those a famous Temple, in times past sacred to Apollo, now dedicate to S. Salvador. On the South we saw the Ruins of another Temple, built also to the Honour of Apollo. The Inhabitants are Greeks, Ruins of Apollo's Temple. Iews and Turks, who are sedulous Planters and Cultivaters of the Vine, the land answering their Industry with a fertile Soil. The City which is called also by the name of Nicsia, lies on the East-side of the Island, having a very fair and commodious Haven, presenting for all Winds, and fit to contain Ships of the greatest burthen. Here is found a kind of black stone which is held in great esteem, not much unlike the vulgar Touch-stone, called by the Italians, Smeriglio.

In our Course through the Aegean Sea we touched at Parus, Lero, Arrival at Metel­lino, or Mytilene Embroa, Psyra, and visited Metellino, where I had been the year before, and was transported thence to the Venetian Armada, in a Candian Tartan, making by the way a good booty, as you will find more amply related in Pag. 76 & seqq. but now I found better opportunity and leisure to take notice of the Island than before. Metellino lies in 48 degr. near the main Continent of Greece, and from the nearest point hardly 3 English leagues distant. The City which also bears the same name, is situated on the North-west side of the Island, fortified with a Castle that commands 2 Havens, and is called Moliva.

There are besides this several strong Holds and fortified Places throughout the whole Island. The South-and North-sides are Champain Land; but the East and West for the most part hilly and montanous, affoarding rich Quarries of white and black Marble; and about the Center of the Land it is woody, and mostly grown over with Cypres Trees. The arable part of the Land which is tilled, is of a good Soil, and affoards plenty of Corn, of which they make two Sorts of bread, the one they call Trachana and the other Bouchourt, either of which is more durable than our Ship Biscake. They make an excellent sort of red Wine, which the Turks, notwithstanding the voice of their Alchoran, greatly covet and swallow when they can have [Page 110] it. The Pastures swarm with all kinds of Cattel both great and small; in which, Good store of Cattel. by reason of their very great abundance, they hold commerce with the Islands of the Aegean Sea; but especially in a breed of small Horse they have, which are in good esteem abroad.

After we had done our affairs at Mytilene we went for great Scio but being by the way warned of some Fishermen, that the Turks had lan­ded a great number of Soldiery there, we sail'd past the Island, and put in at S. Giorgio di Scyro which is a small Island lying in 47 degr. 23 min. being almost of a triangular form, Scyro. where the Inhabitants follow the Vineyard. Delos. Leaving Scyro, we sail'd directly for Delos, which now for the most part goes by the name of Sdilly and lies in the latitude of 47 degr. The Island is at present of no great note: only that it is visited by the curious in Antiquities. Here we found many Ruins of Temples, and Altars, sacred to Heathenish Deities, and the Image of Apollo, which is in two pieces, whereof (as the Greeks told us) the English saw'd off the Head, and carried it away. But so much as remains of it I have drawn, as may be seen in the Print. There appear yet the Ruins of 3 Temples more, to wit, of Apollo, Minerva and Diana, besides several pieces of Marble and Alabastre, in various figures of Animals, as Lions, Leopards, and the like. Here are also many Quarries of a rich sort of Marble, and various kinds of Ala­bastre. Provision may be had at very easy rates, Hares and Coneys are for their plenty held in disesteem by the Inhabitants. Agricul­ture is a thing quite out of use, but the greatest profit it yields the Venetians is the conveniency of the Haven, which serves them for a Rendevouz.

The Castle of Tenos blown up with it's own Powder.Between Delos and Andros lies the Island Tenos, where there is a Castle built upon a high Hill, that seems of it self sufficient enough to defend the whole Island. In the year 1656 was the greatest part of this Castle blown up with its own Powder by Lightning, at what time, I was in the Fleet not far from Delos, and saw it. I beleeve also that a great part of this Island is overflown with the Inundation of the Sea, as Zantorini, or rather sunk: for when we came to anchor at 26 fathom Water, we wrought all we could to weigh, but thought verily that the Cable would break before any anchor would loose; at last it was resolved to try once more for the last, and if it would not then come, to cut the Cable, but at last the anchor came, bringing a great [Page] [Page] [Page 111] peece of a Wall with it. In the Gentile age was a Bath at Tenos, IULY. 1668. where every one of what rank or quality soever he was, must wash himself, or otherwise, it was not lawfull for him to enter the Temples of Apollo, Minerva, or Diana. Tenos is of it self fruitfull enough and would produce more grain than indeed it does, if the Inhabitants were inclined to that Tillage, but they find more profit in Silk, having large Woods of Mulbeery Trees, so that this Island is the chief place for Silk Stockings in the Levant.

After we had staid a few daies at Tenos, we set sail further up, Milo, it's Situation and by the way put in at Milo. Which lies in 37 degr. and 21 min. It is in length about 7 Leagues, tending North and South. Amongst the many convenient Havens it hath, there is one on the Western coast, Havens. where Ships may ride in the hardest weather that is, Villages, without either Anchor or Horser. The Villages on this Island are very neat and close built; and is also fortified with two strong Holds which com­mand the Sea on each side the Island. Strength. The Inhabitants are some of the Greek church, but speak most Italian, And Re­ligion of the Inha­bitants. for that it is much fre­quented by the Venetians, and other Italians of whom the Women of this Island (as they say) learn the Language between Sheets, which their wanton deportment seems to verify Common fame gives Milo the bell for able Sea-men and Fishers, who for both those faculties do the Vene­tians no small service. And here is the prime place for the Armada to Water at, where they also generally provide themselves with Bread, Oil, Salt, Wine and Vinegar. There is also much Honey found in this Island, but wild, in the Rocks and Hollow-Trees.

Thus Traversing to and again, to and from the Islands, our Ship, The Princes, grew very leaky, so that we were affraid, that if we should be taken in a Tempest she would not hold out, which our Mate observing, willed the Commander to acquaint the Admiral with her Condition, which he did; and thereupon we were dismiss'd, and the Venetians aboard us received order to go aboard other Ships. Having taken our leave of the Fleet with a Gun or 2, we speeded us for Venice, where not without much difficulty we arrived. Here I took my leave of the Ships-folk, and went into a Privateer called the St. Iohn, which was first intended for Legorn: but by the way under­standing that our Captain, whose name was Herman Been had 3 Com­missions and went for a General Caper, I took my leave of the [Page 112] Gentleman, JULY 1657. so soon as we arrived at Leghorn; the more because he had already made a beginning, and converted the Goods intrusted him by some Merchants into a Prize and Booty, thought it therefore best to leave him betimes, lest I should be brought with him to pay the shot. The Captain seeing that others, with me, were resolved to leave the Friggat, and so consequently, he in danger of being be­tray'd, and to be called to an account for his Villany, begins to set sail, but by an Order from the Duke, the Ship was arrested at the instance of Captain W. van der Saar, and Capt. de Wilde who then lay at anchor in that Haven. The Ship was brought up and chain'd, the Ships-folk set free, and the Captain himself committed to Custody, where for some time h [...] remained: till afterward coming for Holland was taken Prisoner; but what became of his Friggat I could never come to hear. After I had been at Leghorn 2 or 3 days, I hired my self aboard Mr, Peter Veldmuys; with whom, after many perillous adven­tures, I returned home to my native Countrey.

CHAP. I. The Author undertakes his Third Voyage for Moscovia. The Names of the Officers and others employed with him on that Journey and Voyage. Their Difficulties in going out. Arrival at Riga, with a Description of the Town, and their Departure from thence. The Nature of the Lifelanders their Houses, Customes, Condition, Religion, and quaint form of an Oath. Arrival at Wolmar, with a Description thereof. Their difficult Travels through Lifeland.

THus by Divine Preservation I arrived in my own Countrey, SEPT. 1668. after the exposal of my Body to so many Jeopardies and Perils, and now began to weigh the great Felicity of a settled life, and the many Dangers which attend such a manner of Living as I had unadvisedly made choice of, to the great discontent of my Friends and Alliance: I therefore purposed with a new Resolution to follow my ho­nest Vocation at home, and enjoy that Tranquility of Body and Mind, which I then preferred in my Thoughts beyond a restless and disquiet Wandring abroad. Pursuant to this my Intention I married after I had been about 6 Moneths at home, and so continued in that state, for the term of 10 years during which time I found but poor advancement in my Fortune, and mean Products of so many years hard labour and toil; so that I resolved to take the very first oppor­tunity [Page 114] I met with to see what was reserved for me in the Cabinet of Chance abroad. and,

In the year 1668, I came to understand that some Gentlemen were sent from the Czar of Moscovy to Amsterdam, to take on men into the service of the Emperour, for equipping some Ships in the Caspian Sea, and so to promote the Trade between Moscovia and Persia, by Ship­ping of his own, which otherwise till then was done by Persians, Tartars and other Nations, and that mostly by Land, from whence arose many Difficulties by Robberies and the like. The Conditions upon which they were taken on liked me very well, upon which I applied my self to Mr. David Butler who was to be our Leader, and to conduct us to Moscovia. After I had treated with him a litle upon what Terms I did desire to go; we made an Agreement for 75 gilders per Moneth, for which I was to serve as Sail-maker, and to make up all the Sail-work for a new Ship and a Yacht, which was newly built in Russia. The Fore-mast Men had 50 gilders per Moneth allow'd them, their Boardwages included, which was 15 gilders.

• David Butler of Amsterdam, Captain.
• Lambert Helt, Master.
• William Klopper, First-Mate and Carpenter.
• Iohn Alberts, Second-Mate.
• Peter Bartelsz, Boatswain.
• Cornelius de Vries, Gunner.
• Theodore Petersz, Carpenters Mate.
• William Williamsz, Block-maker.
• Anthony Munster, Diamond-cutter.
• — Schack, Chirurgeon.
• Wiggert Poppes.
• Meyndert Meyndertsz.
• Cornelius Brack.
• Els Petersz.
• Iacob Trappen.
• Iacob Tolk.
• Peter Arentsz, and
• Iohn Fassely, Servant to Captain Butter.

[Page 115]The Master together with the Carpenter, Carpenters Mate, Anthony Munster, Iacob Trappen and Tolk had been the year before in Moscovia. Having furnished our selves with Provision and things necessary for the Journey, we imbarqued our selves in the Ship Abrahams Offerhande, which then lay at Amsterdam and was bound for Riga, being 15 in company.

On the 2 of September 1668 we sail'd through the Pampuys, and on the 3 towards the Evening came before Enchuysen, where we put in and Shipped 50 Tun of Herring.

On the 4 we set sail again and got the Texel, where we tarried 8 days for a good Wind: and on the 13 the Wind blowing fair all the Ships outward bound which were about 50 sail; began to weigh, and we respectivly to take our leave of Wives and Family, for 5 years: but before we got clear of the Land, the Wind turned, so that we were fain to traverse and wind all we could to get out, in the mean time came a Ship belonging to Ter Schelling with a full drift against us, and ran her Bow-spreet through our main Sail, which was with such force that he rent our sail, and broke his Spreet-sail yard, inso­much that we were both fain to put into Ter Schelling, to repair and fit our selves out again.

On the 20 being clear we set sail the second time, and had a fresh gale at South and by West, which held favourably, so long till we arrived at Riga: but when we entred the Baltic Sea, it blew so hard that our Mizzen sail was all rent and unfit for use; whereupon the Master set me to work to repair the defects.

On the 1 ^st of October we got the Boldera, Arrival at Bolde­ra. which is the Haven or River of Riga, where we dropt Anchor. Immediately upon our arrival came the Searchers to visit the Ship, and amongst other Goods found a Parcel of contra-band Wares, and took it ashoar with them, but the Master told them that it was thrown in by chance, and pray'd them to be so kind as to leave it aboard, which, after he had daubed them a litle in the fist, they did. The next day being under sail, we were becalm'd, and fain to cast anchor half way up the River.

On the 3 ditto we came up to the Kay of Riga, where being arrived, Arrival at Riga. the Master refused to pay me the moneys, he agreed with me for, to make up his sail, which was 10 Rix-dollars; but on the contrary, gave me very ill Language, and told me if I had any pretence upon [Page 116] him the Law was open, and Judges appointed for the decision of such controversies. This great ingratitude, made me to take a course I never intended, which was to send him summons to appear in the Town hall; where upon a second citation, he made his appearence, and was condemned to pay the money, in presence of the Court.

Riga de­scribed Riga is an eminent Emporium lying within the Prinsdom of Lithva­nia, and seated in a Champain land, on the north-east side of the great River Duna. It is fortified with Walls, Bulwarks, and Ditches or Motes, populous and full of Trade, being as it were the Magazin to supply the whole Countrey above, with all kinds of Wares and Commodities, and is also a great Thorow-fare. By Winter they receive Goods over Land in Sledges and Waggons from Moscovia which is transmitted abroad; It's Com­merce both by Sea and Land. and by Summer from England, Ger­many, Holland, and other Places, by Shipping, which are sent that way again with the Moscovian Waggons and Sledges. The Countrey about Riga affoards good plenty of all kinds of Provision, as Kine, Sheep, Goats, besides 3 sorts of Deer, the Sea and Rivers affoard good store of Fish, and the Boors, besides their diligence in breeding up of Cattel, supply other Countreys with Corn, of all sorts, and Lactuaries: so that it is cheap living at or near Riga. This City was formerly within the Jurisdiction of the Kings of Poland; but was taken in by Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, upon the 16 of September 1621, after a long and hard Siege, and is at this day in subjection to that Crown.

Departu­re from Riga.On the 10 ditto, we left Riga, and with our compleat Company and Baggage imployed 30 Waggons to bring us to Pletsko: and took up our first nights Lodging at Niew-meulen, being a Village where all the Waggons and Horses are set over a River with great Logs of Timber fastned together, Nieu-Meulen. that float above the Water.

On the 11 we proceeded again on our Journey and broke two of our Waggon-wheels, which the Waggoners repaired, and so we pro­ceeded on our Journey. At night we came into an Inn which was so meanly provided for Bedding that we were fain to lay all night in the Waggons. The next day we travelled through a great Wood, in the middest whereof was a broad Marsh, that cost us some Hours to go over. When we were through the Wood, we passed through several little Villages, the Inhabitants whereof were a miserable silly People, [Page 117] hardly able to draw one leg after the other. The Women have only an old Rag, like a Plad, thrown about their bodies, The Life­landers their Pro­perties, Habit and Cu­stoms. hardly sufficient to hide their nakedness, except a litle below their ears, to let the World know, they have hair as well as other People; so that they look like so many Gypsies newly come from the famous Peak of Darby. As for their Houses they are but one degree beneath a Hog-sty and those as full of Utensils, as a Knave is full of Honesty. All that ever I could see was an earthen Pan or two, and those so clean, that I had rather fast a week than eat any thing, that has come out of them. Great plenty of Cattel they have, and such as have three times as many feet as they themselves. As for Beds they have none but such as their Oxen ly upon, for when they have stuffed their Gutts, they ly down upon the floor one after another, as the Nap takes them. Their Diet is suitable to all things else they have, for although they might have Venison for knocking on the Head, the Creature may live till Dooms-day before they will take the pains to lift a hand to kill it, unless it be a louse, which sometimes they crush to death for change of Diet. As for their Bread it is not much unlike our New-castle Coal for colour, but how it is of Tast I know no more than the Man in the Moon, for neither my Appetite nor Curiosity could move me to it, Cab­bage they have in great abundance, which is of a Tast like Sorrel, but close and white like ours, That and Cucumbers are the main ingre­dients whereof these People seem to be compounded, but more especially the latter, for Cucumber attends them from the Womb to the Tomb, being held in perpetual Slavery by their Lords. They are conformable to no Laws, unless what they are forced to observe by a strict aw, which their Lords impose upon them, and injoyn them to. They are by nature obtuse and dull, inclined to Necromancy and Sorcery, but in the performance of an Exorcism, so palpably ri­diculous, that I wonder how they have obtained that repute they have in the World among those, who ought to be wiser than to beleeve such groundless Fictions. They have no manner of Schools wherein to educate their Children, that ever I could see or hear of: neither Churches or other Houses for Religious use; so that they are brought up in the greatest Blindness and obscurity that may be. Some of them, 'tis true, will needs be called Christians, but those are they that have travelled as far as Riga, which they think is the Head of the World, [Page 118] yet are those so stupid, OCTOB. 1668. as a Lifeland Gentleman told me, that they have learn'd Catechism enough, if they can but know the Church from a Dwelling house, or to pull of their Caps when they see a man with a shoulder knot pass by. Yet they are flexible enough to Idolatry by Nature, and withall superstitious. In our going through the Woods we saw a great Troop of them busy about Conjuring of a Tree, which they had tied with a Garland of twigs, creeping round about it and making a great Howling; but so soon as they saw us, took them to their Heels and away. By the Forms and Tenures of the Curses and Conjuration they seem to be sensible of a Future state and sometimes (by I know not what Tokens) presage Death; and the Soul of any that has been a disturber of the Public Quiet they deliver up to the Devil. They have a formal Oath, that they take upon divers Occasions which is thus, The Party cuts up a Turf or Sod of Earth, this he sets upon his Head and takes his stick into his Hand, Wishing if such, or such a Matter, be not so, and so, that They with their Cattel may be consumed with Fire. They have besides this, other superstitious Customes, to which they are so strongly inclined by nature that they will not be better civilized, or if they happen to show themselves willing, and learn a litle Urbanity it must be only for lucres sake, and they promised something to boot to remember it, which if you forget to perform, they will forget to observe your Document. In short they are but one remove from Bruits, and so ignorant, that the most part of them thinks there is no other Land in the World besides their own.

Two days long we went through the Woods and found it so soft and Marshy that we could hardly bring our Waggons through in safety.

Arrival at Wolmar.On the 14 we arrived at VVolmar where we met many Horses, Wag­gons, and Boors going to market with Corn and other Things. One of our Company growing weary of his Journey thought to go away in this Throng, but the Captain being informed of his Design, watched him so narrowly, that he could not meet with an Opportunity to march off.

VVolmar, is a litle, but a well-fortified Town, munited with a stone-Wall and a deep Ditch, but without Water. The Market in regard of the Poverty of the Countrey is very considerable, and is held twice [Page 119] a week. This City as appears yet by the Ruins of it, has been for­merly much greater than it is at this day, but with all the Countrey round about has been often depopulated by the Polish and Russian Armies. It is about 18 leagues from Riga.

On the 15 by break of Day, we set forward on our Journey, passing through a Champaign Countrey, and many small Towns and Ham­lets. By the way we observed that the Boors had burn't up great Woods, and converted them into Pasturage and arable Ground. Afterwards we went through a large Wilderness, where we could not see the Sun, by reason of the density of the Trees, yet the way was full of Mires, and plashy. About 7 in the Evening we came to our stage, where we were to stay over night. The next morning we broke our fast, yoked the Horses, and set forward; passing over a huge River which had only a Bridge there where we were to pass over, and no where else within 20 leagues above or below: but the Bridge being old and seemingly rotten, we durst not go over all together, but one by one. When we were got over, Evening came on, and the Sky began to grow gloomy, after which followed a very great Tempest that the River swell'd over the Banks and overflow'd all the flat Lands, which we seeing so suddenly happen, left the common Road; for that our Land Pilot told us, that the High way was subject to such Floods with an extraordinary Inundation. After two Hours Stor­ming, the Weather began to clear and the Pilot assured us we were not far from the Town where we were to take our nights rest, and so it happened, for just as he was speaking of it we saw Light, through the Trees, which mightily revived us for we were extreme cold and weary. The next morning we set forward for Pitsiora, and had very good Weather, but came short of the Town that night, insomuch that we were fain to ly all night in the Woods, where we gathered all the Windfalls we could find and laid them on a heap, and with dry Sticks made a huge Fire, which served not only to warm our selves at, but likewise to affright the Bears and Wolves away, which are very bold and cruel in these Parts, as also the Muskettos, which swarm here by Millions, and annoy both Man and Beast, after an incredible rate.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Pitsiora, and at Pletskow, A strange Passage of a hungry Bear. The spindle-bone or shank of a Giant. The Pleasant Prospects and delightsome Landships of Moscovia. Arrival at Novogorod. The Antiquity and former Glory of that City; how taken by the Moscovian, and Fortified by the Swede. Their Departure from Novogorod, Rescounter with a Company of Robbers, and Arrival at Colomna. Great abundance of Wolves. Coldness of the Climat.

OCTOB. 1668.ON the 30 ^th. of October 1678 we arrived at Pitsiora, which lies on the Confines of Russia, and under the Protection of that Empe­rour. It is seated in a fair and pleasant Countrey, affoarding all things necessary to the sustenance of human Bodies. 'Tis true Pitsiora is no more than a Village, yet for wealthy Inhabitants, Commerce abroad and Advancement of Manufacture, surpasses any City in all that part of the Countrey. In passing through the Town we saw many rich Mercers and Drapers Shops; the Markets stored with all sorts of Provision, as Corn, Butter, Cheese and Fruits, with a very noble Butchery or Flesh-shambles, and the streets crouding with People from all Parts. So soon as we were arrived, there came several Jewel­ers, who asked if we had any Pearls, or other Jewels to sell or barter.

Having refreshed ourselves at Pitsiora; we left the Town the next day about 10 in the Morning, and about noon entred a large Wood where we found great store of Hurtles or Bilberies, that were far greater and better tasted then any I have known else where; which moved me to fall a plucking of them; but going a litle way into the Wood, and making a rushing through the Thickets, up starts a huge Bear, which so affrighted me that I had hardly power to run from him; however it seem'd that he was as fearfull of me as I of him, for when I ran East he ran West, and glad I was to see his Bear-ship turn tails with me. This was the only Bear that ever I had seen in Lifeland, or all the way from Riga hither, but the Boors often warned us to take care of our selves, saying that, sometimes both Men and Cattel are devoured with those cruel and ravenous Beasts.

On that Evening we arrived at Pletskou where we had Lodgings and all necessaries provided us; and on the 22 payd our Waggoners who returned for Riga.

[Page 121] Pletskou, is a large City, OCTOB. 1678. a great part thereof is surrounded with a wall, the rest with huge Balks like Pallizados, and computed about 8 [ English] miles in compass. Their Houses are made sleightly of Trees and pieces of Timber, let in with joynts, without any Gentility or ornament. The Town it self gives a noble Prospect if you view it from without, by reason of the many Parish-Churches and Towers it has, but when you come within, it appears very ugly, the streets are irregular without Uniformity, and the Houses built after multifarious manners, so that the poorest Village, in the Low-Countreys, is a Paradice in comparison of Pletskou. 'Tis true they have some Houses of stone, but the most eminent and wealthy Citizens chuse rather to live in Wooden-Houses than in those, for that they say, The latter are more wholsom. Here I happened to meet with a Hamburger, and after we had exchanged a few words together, concerning our journey from Riga, I told him of my rouzing the Bear. He replyed that I was happy to make my escape so, since not only men are sometimes devoured by them, but also Horses and Kine, and withal told me, how that they dig up the Graves for the Bodies of the Dead, when they are hungry. But more lamentable was a story he told me, of a She-Bear, that in the year 1656. broke by night into a House in the Country not far from thence, where she had found the Woman of the house with a sucking, Infant in the bed with her. The woman she devoured, leaving only a part of her left leg and a litle of the Scalp, but the Infant was altogether mist, whence it was concluded that the Bear had eaten it up, as being young and consequently more delicate. Not long after this dismal hap, the Peasant took his Musquet with him into the Woods not far from his House, with intent to shoot an Otter which haunted his Fish-pond, and by the way espies a Bear, at which he levels his Musquet, and hits him directly on the skull. The Bear (as the custom is when shot) rolls himself in a heap, the Peasant runs to her and finding it a Female, and her Duggs full of Milk, resolves the next day to make search for her Seat, for then he thought that her VVhelps would be hungry and yell out. The day following he went out to seek the Cave, taking 2 or 3 other Peasants with him, who being about the Middle of the VVood, on the side of a hill, heard a young child cry, and following the direction of the sound, found his own Infant in the cleft of a great Rock, which he took and brought to Pletskou, to be nurs'd up by his VVives Sister, where out of curiosity I went to see it.

In the Suburbs of Pletskou, was to be seen a shank-bone of a Giant, [Page 122] 5 foot long, OCTOB. 1668. which together with the whole Skeleton, was found in a Tomb of stone, by the Boors, when they were digging up the roots of Trees that they had burn'd up.

On the 26 ^th it began to freeze hard, and afterwards to snow, which made us uneasy for our delay, being constrained to wait here so long, till we received the Poddowodda, which is an Order given by his Imperial Majesty, that every Town we came at should furnish us with Horses, Wagons, Bedding, and defray our other Char­ges. On the 28 towards night came an Express from Moscou, and the next day we set forward, intending first for Novogorod. This part of our Journey was much more easy and delightfull than that through Lifeland, which was altogether desert and Marshy, this on the con­trary, inhabited and till'd.

On the 31 ^th we came at a great Lake before Novogorod, where we left the Sledges and were fetch'd over in a kind of a Cymb, or Boat which is made of a hollow tree, and by them called Knoos; of these they had two sorts, the one for Passengers, who may sit 4 or 5 at a time, the other broader, and every way larger, fit to transport Goods. This Lake is very broad but shallow, not having above 5 foot Water in most places. When we were set over, our Goods were put into Sledges, and brought after us into the Town.

In passing through the Town we found the Suburbs far greater than the City it self, which as appears by the Ruins of the Walls, has been formerly a well fortified Place. In times past it was neither subject to the Russian, Swede, nor Polander, but had a Prince, who coined Money and ruled as absolute Soveraign, with an independent and arbitrary Power; Yea, to so high a state was it once advanced, that it was grown to a Proverb, GOD and Novogorod, who is able to with­stand. Their Puissance I need not dispute, since it is well known to those that are acquainted with Geography what Sway the Princes of Novogorod have born, and what a name this City has had abroad for her Wealthy Merchants and great commerce with other Places. About the year 1477 it was besieged and storm'd by Ivan Vasilowitz, Great Duke of Moscovia, who took away all the Priviledges and Im­munities of the Citizens: since which time their Wealth and Traffic began to decline and decay. However by reason of it's commodious Situation, it retains the footsteps of its former Trade, and is espe­cially [Page 123] frequented by Swedes, Danes, Hamburgers and Lubeckers, who come up the River Nerva, with their small Shipping. The chief Commodities they deal in, are Wheat, Ry, Lin-and Rapeseed, Furrs, Hemp and Flax. The Countrey is blessed with a good Soil, and produces sufficiently enough of what is requisite to human suste­nance, which is here very cheap. This is reckoned the best place in all Moscovia for River-fish, especially Pikes and Perch, Salmon they have in great abundance, as also Carp, Bream, and Sturgeon, with other kinds not commonly found in the Low-Countreys.

Novogorod (which is as much as to say, New-town, or Newton, being compounded of the Latin word Novus, and the substantive Gorod, in the Moscovian Tongue, a City) is at this present strengthned only with a Wall of Timber, but well provided with Ammunition, and Brass Ordnance. On the one side is a strong Castle with a high stone-wall, which as then was the Residing place of the Primate or Arch-bishop of the West-Province, and some other Temporal Lords. The greatest Decorum and Ornament of this City is the Pomp and stateliness of the Churches and some Public Edifices, as at Pletskou, but the Houses and Private Dwellings of the Inhabitants without any Order or neatness of Structure. Between the Castle and the Town is a long wooden Bridge where the beforenamcd Ivan Basilowitz, a great Tyrant, threw in some Thousands of the Inhabitants. When you enter the Town, by that way you come within view of a famous Cloyster, dedicate to Saint Anthony: which Saint they beleeve and will perswade you came driving on from Rome, out at the Tyber, through the Aegean Sea, the Propontis, the Negropont, the Which is a Lake and has no com­munion with any other Sea. Mare Caspium, and so up the Wolga to Novogorod upon a Milstone: where he met with a com­pany of Fishers, with whom he covenanted for a certain some of Money, that the first thing they took should be his. The Fishers drew their Net, and brought up a Chest, which was full of Money, besides a Ghostly Attire, and some Books, VVith the money he built there a Chappel where he lies interred, and (as they tell us) his Body is yet to be seen, fresh and undecay'd, by which many miracles have been done, but none can see him, or them, but such as are of their own Faith. And so much of a floating Mil-stone.

In the year 1611 this City was besieged and taken in by I. de la Gardie, Novogo­rod taken in by the Swede. the Swedish General, and in the year 1613 redelivered to the Czar of Moscovy upon Articles of Peace.

[Page 124] NOV. 1668.Upon the 8 of November we left Novogorod, having had time enough to view every Remarkable that was worthy of sight, Depar­ture from Novogo­rod. and about 2 a clock in the afternoon arrived at a village called Bruynitz where we stay'd, and took up our Lodging for that night. The next Morning we took fresh Horses, but the snow was so melted with the Sun that we were fain to take Waggons, and leave the Sledges: but the way was so miry, that we had much ado to get the Horses through, for the Earth there is of a tough clay. About 8 in the Evening we came to Miedna, which is a poor Village, and could hardly affoard us Hous-room for that night.

On the 10 ^th. we had bad travailing way, being for the most part marshy and full of Boggs, with Planks and trees laid over to make them passable, which totered and shaked so that our Waggons were often out of order, but were as often mended by the Pesants who by continual use are very expert at it. By the way we saw abundance of Squirrels and Foxes which run together in Troups, yet so shy that we could not come within musquet-shot of them. That night we got Gankrezza, a handsom little Village, where we refreshed and supplied our selves with necessaries for our Journey.

Rescoun­ter with a compa­ny of Robbers.The next day being the 11 ^th of Novemb. we set forward on our Journey, and travelling thro the Woods, we were surprized with a Party of High-way men, well mounted and masked, who deman­ded, what we were? We replied, that we were Dutch and servants to the Emperour. They hearing that, were in a doubt whether they should plunder us, or not; but at last rode off and bad us adieu. It was our opinion that they were affraid that our Company was strong­er, and that the rest followed us, for they were better arm'd and mounted than we, besides the Waggons we had to take care of, or otherwise in all probability they would not have neglected such a fair booty, that being, as we were told by the Waggoners, one of the most dangerous places in all the Countrey. That night we took our rest at Iazel-Bitza, being very bad and snowy weather.

On the 12 ditto, we took in fresh Horses, and put our Baggage and Moveables into Sledges because of the snow, passing through thick Woods, and a vast Wilderness, before we came at Gamzymnagoru where we were to take up our Lodging.

On the thirteenth we changed Horses and set forward on our [Page 125] Journey, passing first through a thick Wood, and afterwards, came into champian Land, which was dry, level, and tilled as far as we could see. By the way we saw many small Villages, but at night came into Colomna, which was the fairest and best Village I had hi­therto seen in Moscovia: the Inhabitants are reputed wealthy, and live in very good fashion. We came pretty early to our Stage, having had very good way, and reasonable fair weather, so that we had time enough to take a view of the Town, Our Pristaf, or Guid, who spoke good Nether Dutch went with us to show what was worthy of remark, and very courteously resolved us in any thing we desired to be satis­fied about.

On the 14 ^th we went through a great Wood where we saw abun­dance of Wolves playing together, which, when we would have taken aim to shoot with our Long Guns, they ran inward and took the Wood. Our Pristaf told me that they knew us to have Fire-locks about us, that being the only safeguard to travel with, without which they will not fear to assail Horse and Man, and sometime lay sculking in the way side, where of a sudden they run out and prey upon Passengers. Towards the Evening it began to freez hard, that we were fain to step out of the Hurdles, and walk afoot.

On the 16 ^th we got VVaizna, and from thence departed for Gam-VVoldoka, where we tarried 4 days to rest our selves. In the mean while it froze very hard, and I with another of our Company went out to ride upon Scates, upon which an infinit number of Men, Women and Children, yea the Priests themselves, came running out to see us.

CHAP. III. A Quarrel with the Russians, Eight Dutch Merchants murthered in a Wood. Ar­rival at Tweer, Another Rescountre with a Party of Robbers. Money sent from Moskow. Pursuit of their Journey. They enter Moscou. Their good Reception. The great Bear-Garden. Wolf and Bear-baiting. Death of the Empress, and the pompous Exequies.

ON the 22 ^th after we had sufficiently taken breath, we set forth, having fresh Horses provided us, and so entred a great Wood, [Page 126] where we saw great swarms of Squirrels fly from Tree to Tree; SEPT. 1668. as also abundance of Pheasants and Partridges, which the Peasants take and sell for a mean price. About the Evening we came to VVuidra Pusk, where we remained that night, but could not get any Lodging fit to entertain us either for Hous-room or Victuals, this being yet a poorer Village than that of Miedna. At this place happened a Quarrel between one of our Company and a Russ, the first having taken the others Ax, for that the Russ had stole som Tobacco from him: which being made known to the Company, they struck and misused the poor Russ, after an unsufferable manner, which Capt. Butler resented very ill, not willing to give the Russians any disgust. But above all the peo­ple in the World there are none that covet Tobacco so much as they do, and will be sure to steal it, if they cannot otherwise come by it, although they were sure to loose their Heads for it.

On the 23 by break of Day, we set out and entred another thick Wood. Here they showd us som Graves where they told us, 8 Dutch Merchants were buried, who had been murthered by Robbers. When we were got thro the Wood we went over a fair Pasture-ground, and saw divers Boors Houses by the Way-side. In the Eve­ning we arrived at Torstock, which we found to be but a small, yet well-built City, although it appeared greater, from the Number of Towers which we saw, when at a distance, having above 30 Churches and Chappels within the Walls. Here we unloaded our Sledges and left them, putting our Goods aboard some small Shipping that was provided for us, and sayled down the River to Troetzka Miedna where we took in som necessary Provisions. That night pretty late we came to Tweer which is Seated upon the River VVolga, which River with many windings and turnings runs to seek the Caspian Sea, into which its disgorges its self. Tweer is something greater than Torstock and is built on the side of a Hill from whence it has it's name. Here is also the Place where the River of Torstock incorporates with the Wolga ma­king a great and loud noise where the Floods are hurried in together. This City like Torstock makes a greater Show abroad than it does within; being neither well built nor at all fortified, save only with a Wall of Wood and 2 or 3 Brass Cannon on the Land side. Here we took out our Baggage and laid it again upon Sledges, taking our way through the Woods where we were assail'd by two Russians a foot, [Page 127] but upon what account I know not. DECEM 1668. First they began to make a quarrel, and so boldly offered to strike with their Axes, saying, that they were upon their own Ground, and that we were a parcel of Rogues and Vagabonds &c. To which some of our Company who could speak the Language, prai'd them not to molest us, as they tendred their Welfare, and that we had no time to stand disputing, and answering their impertinent Objections. This not availing, or perswading them to be quiet, but rather made them worse, for they came closer and closer to us: which Capt. Butler observing fell a ca­ning them, whereupon they retired a litle, as if they would go away, but all on a sudden came running in upon us full drive with their Axes, upon which three of our Company levelled their Musquets, but the Captain forbad to fire, and let the Mastive loose upon them. The Mastive flies directly at one of them, and had him so fast by the Throat, that we had much ado to get him off: the other seeing his Mate so hard put to it, ran away as fast as he could, but the Dog being loose flew after him, and tore off his left ear; and had we not done our indeavour to take him off, had rent him all to pieces. So soon as we had got rid of them we proceeded on our way, and at night came to Gorodna, where we staid till morning.

On the 24 ditto we went forward, passing over 2 Rivers, where we came to a Village called Sawidowa, Saulka Spaz. and at night came to Saulka Spaz which was our Stage. Here we provided our selves again with fresh Horses, but not without much difficulty, for in the mean time we were very uncivilly treated by the Inhabitants, whom we found migh­tily inclined to quarrel with us, although without occasion.

On the 25 we took our leaves of Saulka Spaz going over a large plain, and at night came to a village called Klien, Klien. where for want of Moneys we were forced to stay, till we had an Express from Moscou which came not before the 4 of December following, at which time came also one of the Domesticks of the Heer van Sweden, Kinsman to Captain Butler bringing the unwelcom news of his Masters Sickness whom the Physicians judged to be past recovery. The Captain upon the opening of the Letter was sadly dejected, and immediatly took Horse and rode post for Moscou, leaving us Order the next day to follow with the Baggage. In the mean time it began to snow hard, insomuch that we were forced to tarry 6 days at Klien. On the 11 we [Page 128] set forward having fair Weather, which at our setting out seemed to be durable. On this days Journey we met with, Rivers which we were to pass over that hindred us not a litle; by reason that the Floats were so litle, not able to carry above 3 or 4 Horses at a time with Sledges and Wagons, At night we arrived at Serkisowo, where we took up our Night-lodging. In the mean time it froze so hard, that we were all benummed, and fain to run after the Waggons to keep our selves Warm.

On the eleventh ditto, we went through several thick Woods of Juniper, where we saw abundance of Foxes playing together in the Sun. About 3 in the afternoon we arrived at Nicholo Direverno, from whence we could see the long-wish'd-for Moscou. About Evening we entred the Suburbs, where by one of our own Nation we understood that the Heer van Sweden was deceased, and that the Ship was fit for Lanching.

On the 12 ^th. we had order to come into the City, and had Ap­partments provided us near the House of the Heer van Sweden. Our Landlady had so little satisfaction in the Guests that were appointed to have quarters with her, that she addressed herself to Court, to desire that we might be brought some where else, but instead of ob­taining her Request, was sent home with a hundred strokes on the Ribs for her pains. When she came in, she ran into a back-room, where was the Image of St. Nicholas painted upon a Plank, and falling down prostrate before it, shed a shower of Tears. However she was forced to content her self for 14 days longer, during which time we made good chear, and spared not for Fewel in the Stoves. And albeit the Woman was so dissatisfied at our being there, yet her Husband could have wish'd us there the whole year round, for our Brandy and Tabacco sake.

On the 27 we had order to go into the House of the late deceased Gentleman, even now remembred, which was a very commodious House and provided with a great Or Cackel. Stove, which was by reason of the bitter Weather, very welcome to us; the more because the said House was well furnished with Wood, and other fewel for the Winter. We stayd here three weeks, during which time there was care taken for what we had need of; when that time was expired we received sudden Orders, forthwith to depart for our wharf at Astrachan.

[Page 129]On the 19 of Ianuary we brought our Baggage aboard a small Ship, JAN. 1669. that lay about 3 Miles without Moscou. At this Place was the Court of the Emperours Sister, being a fair Palace, but of Wood, built after a quaint and artificial manner. Here was also the Emperours Bear-Garden, being accidentally when we were there a great Con­course of Gentry, from Moscou, and other places to see the Pastime, and the Evening before, came the Emperour with the whole Court and Retinue. The Theatre was only environed with Stakes and Pales, that the People might also see, that were without. Before they began were brought out about 200 Wolves and Bears, and almost twice the number of Dogs; all which were drawn in their Kennels set upon Sledges. The Emperour, and the prime of his Nobles sate in a Gallery made on purpose in a very convenient place, to see on every side. So soon as the Emperour was set, a sign was given, upon which a litle Wolf and an old Bear were turned out loose together, that after they had encountered about half a quarter of an Hour, were parted, which notwithstanding their being in the heat of the Fight, were easily brought asunder and led to their Kennel. The Wolves were afterwards engaged with Dogs of which many lay dead upon the place, and others so wounded that they were no more fit for use.

On the 23 of February, one of our company married with a Tartarian maid, who had been taken Captive when she was a Child and brought up in the Christian Religion, by the Heer van Sweden, who taught her to write and speak Netherdutch, both which she did expertly well. And a day or two after was another of our Company married with a Lubekker, both these two went with their Husbands to Astrachan.

On the 13 of March died the Empress in Child-bed who by reason of her great Charity, Piety, and the best of Vertues, Death of the Em­press. was much lamented by the Common People, who oftentimes in distress were accustomed to address themselves to her, as a Mediatrix. The next day she was interred with great Pomp and magnificency, for it is not their Custome as in other Countreys to embalm the Corps, or to let it lie in State. On each side the way stood the Guards, The Fune­ral. but none fol­low'd or went before; except some of the chief Personages about Court who walked a soft pace. The Herse was cowered with a rich Canopy of cloth of Gold, having Tassels and Fringe suitable, born up by 8 young Lords. After the Herse followd a Train of Noble-men, [Page 130] led by the first Ministers of State who bore a Bag of money which the said Empress on her Death-bed had bequeathed to the Poor. MAR. 1669. These followed next to the Emperour and his two Sons; who were appar­reled in a Garment, lined with Black Fox skins, which is a Fur of very high esteem. The Emperour and his two Sons were supported each by two Gentlemen. There were also the several Ministers of Forreign Courts present, who were attired after the manner of their own Countrey, these went on each side the Herse at a distance, and after all followed an innumerable Train of Citizens and Forreign Mer­chants, but those without any Order. On this manner the Corps was brought into a Cloyster which she her self had founded, and there committed to the Earth.

CHAP. IV. Situation of Moscou. It's Divisions and Wards. Kitay-Gorod the first City. The great number of Churches and Cloysters. High Towers. Noted Humility and Obedience of a Russian Gentleman. The greatest Bell in the World at Moscou. The Church of Jerusalem, Zaar-gorod the second, Skorodom the third, and Strelitza Slowoda the fourth Town. Great number of Houses within the City Moscou. A great Fire, whereby many Houses were consumed. The coldness of the Climate. Diseases proper to the Countrey. Fertility and Products of the Land.

BEing constrained to tarry some time at Moscou against our will, it gave me opportunity to take a view of the Town, and to make what observations I could during the time of my aboad there, which I shall according to my best knowledge impart to the Reader.

Moscou it's Si­tuation and state Moscou is the Metropolitan, or Capital City of Moscovia and the Imperial City of Russia, and all that is within the Jurisdiction of the Emperour, whose Empire is bounded on the North with the white Sea, on the East severed from the Samoieds, and other Tartarian Countreys, on the South it has the Mare Caspium, and on the West, part of Poland, Lifeland, and Sweden. So that the large and wide Dominions of the Czar, are extended as well into the Asian as the European Continent.

The City of Moscou (which seems to have it's name from the noble River Moscqua) lies in 50 degr. 37 min. Northerly Latitude. It is a [Page 131] very large City, and computed to be about 30 or 35 English miles in compass, yet was almost twice as great, before it was taken in and depopulated by the Tartars. It gives a very fair prospect from without by reason of it's many Towers and high Buildings. This City is di­vided into 4 wikes or Wards, to wit, Kitay-gorod, or midle City, Zaar-or Czar-gorod, the Emperours City, Skorodom and Strelitza Slowoda. These several Divisions seem rather so many distinct Towns or Cities whereof Perhaps from Cathaia. Kitay-gorod stands in the middest, and is environed with a high wall, which they call Crasna Stenna, that is, Red Wall. It is feated between 2 Rivers, to wit Moscqua on the South, and the Neglina on the North, which are united behind the Palace. The Palace together with its Appendences, to wit, the Wall, Horn­works, Crescents and other Fortifications is the larger part of the Kitay-gorod, called also Crim-gorod; being well provided with Men and Ammunition. In the midst of this Palace is a very stately Church, in which we saw a Silver branched Candlestick, formerly presented to the Czar by the Ambassador of our States. Besides this Church is another dedicated to the Archangel, where are to be seen the Tombs of those of Imperial blood, as also Triotzis Maria and that of St. Nicholas which are both very sumptuous. Those which are in Kitay-gorod with­out the Palace are also reputed the best and fairest in all Moscou, being reckoned 56. Besides the Churches which are within the Walls of the Palace are 2 very beautifull Cloysters, the one for Young Gent­lemen, and the other for Ladies, who have resolved to live a mo­nastichal Life; altho the former may rather go under the denomina­tion of an Ilustrious School, because it is appointed for the Education of the Young nobility in all kinds of Literature and good Manners, who at 16 Years have a choice preferred them, whether they will lead a Ghostly or a Secular Life: but that for the Ladies, dispences not with such a Freedom, but all that are admitted must continue durante vitâ. In the middle of this Palace, or rather Fort, is a high Tower, which the Russians call Ivan Velike, that is Great Iohn being covered with Copper and double guilt. This is that Tower, This Story has been recorded of ano­ther Po­tentate, but 'tis no great matter. on whose Top the Emperour Boris Gudenow (as is to be seen in their Chronicles) brought a Persian Ambassadour to view the City Moscou, and amongst other discourse began to speak of the great Loyalty and Obedience of some subjects to their Soveraigns in past ages: Whence [Page 134] the Emperour took occasion to say) So faithfull are my subjects from the highest Bojar, to the meanest Vassal, that there is not one of them who would refuse to throw himself praecipitantly from the Top of this Tower, if I thought good to command: and thereupon calls a Bojar, or Lord, whom he in­stantly commanded to throw himself head-long down, which after he had taken his Leave of his Imperial Majesty and those that were with him, jump'd off from the highest pinacle, where he was taken up dead, buried with greated Solemnity, and his Children pro­moted to the greatest Places of Trust, in which they and their Descent continue till this day.

The great BellBesides this there is yet another Tower and one of the widest that ever I have seen in my life, in which is the greatest Bell without doubt in the World, weighing 394000 lb. and the Clapper 10000 lb. I mea­sured it and found it 23 foot Diameter, and 2 foot solid mettal. It is as much as 50 strong men can move, and that only so as may just be perceived. It is seldom rung, and that only upon Festival days, or when any Forreign Prince or Minister of State desires it. When they intend to do it at any extraordinary time, they make proclamation through the Town, by which warning the Citizens take down all the Glasses and Earthen Ware, for it makes all tremble and shake.

There are besides the Imperial Court several other spacious Palaces for the Bojars, or Nobility, as also for the Spiritual Lords, amongst which that of the Patriarch is the most magnificent. Without Kitay-gorod, directly before the Palace of the Czar, is one of the fairest Churches (I must neds say) that I have seen in all my Travels, Jerusa­lem Church. which is built after the model of the Temple of Ierusalem, from whence it has that Name. Near unto this church is the great Market having Shops of all Wares and Merchandises that may be imagined, but every Shopkeeper has his own Row or Street, so that people of one Dealing have all their Shops together, and by themselves. In this part of the City dwell likewise the ablest Merchants [ Kneesen] and other Persons of note, who dwell in stone houses to preserve their Goods, if a Fire should happen.

Zaar-gorod which is the second part of Moscou encompasseth Kitay-gorod almost in the form of a Crescent, which is also environed with a huge Wall, which they call Biela Stenna, that is, The white Wall. Zaar-gorod is divided into two parts by the River Neglina, which [Page 135] runs thro the midst of it. Here is also a famous Founding-House for casting great Bells and Ordnance, as also the Emperours stable. Near the River is a Beast-market, and a famous Butchery or Flesh-sham­bles, where you find not only Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, Lamb, Venison, &c. but also Horse-flesh to sell. Corn, Meal, Butter, Cheese and other Provision is here good, cheap, and very plentiful.

The Third City which is Skorodom, embraces Czar-gorod on the East, North and West-sides likewise in the form of a Crescent. In this City, or Ward, is the House-market, where at a low price you may buy a House, of what greatness you please. These Houses are made of Square pieces of Timber notch'd and let into each other, which when you have bought you can disjoint and bring it where you list upon Sledges, that amongst many inconveniencies has this one Conveniency, that if a Citizen has his House burn'd he may be every day supplied with a new, which (considering the old is brought to Ashes) may without much cost, be placed where the other stood; whereas on the contrary, we are often forced to stay sometimes a year or more before the Rubbish be taken away and a convenient House built in lieu of the old. Besides that conveniency, they have another, which is, that at what time any House happens to take fire, and any probable danger of breaking out, the Neighbours upon timely notice have their Houses taken in pieces and removed as if they were but Tents.

The fourth and last Wike is Strelitza Slowoda, Strelitza Slowoda which reaches out toward the South, over the River Moscqua, and towards the Tartarian Countrey. Here is the placc where the Soldatesque are inquarter'd, which they call Strelitzen, from whence this Part of Moscou has it's name. It is very well fortified with Bulwarks, and other For­tifications.

The number of the Houses within the four Divisions and the Suburbs, according to their computation are said to be about 95000, the Palace and all its appendencies excluded. The Churches, and Cloysters, wherein they preach are 1700. Amongst this great number of Dwelling-houses you find few or none, but what are altogether of Wood, except some Merchants Houses in Kitay-gorod, who as we have already said, build mostly of Stone for the better security of their Goods. They use no Chimneys as we do for fires, but great Cackels, [Page 136] or rather Ovens; made altogether of stone, which sometimes being over heated, or by the negligence of the People, who are great affe­cters of Brandy, is the occasion of setting their Houses on fire, as it happened about 6 Weeks before our arrival there, at what time, by the negligence of a poor Woman, happened a most dreadfull Con­flagration, A great Fire in Moscou. that reduced about 35 Thousand Houses to ashes, and that in the best part of the City, which besides an incredible loss of House-furniture, Merchandise and the like, there were many chil­dren and impotent People killed. The Dutch Merchants, who had mostly their Residence near the place where the Fire first broke out, sustained an incredible loss. Tis true the Houses are upon such occa­sions removed with as much ease as ours are blown up, but if the Timber be knotty the Sparks and Cinders fly abroad and kindle other Houses at an incredible distance, which being covered with dry Planks are not so easily extinguished, The Czar upon consideration of the frequent Fires has appointed a party of the Strelitzers, to be quartered in severall places, at a due and convenient distance from each other throughout the 4 Wards; who are continually to be at hand upon such occasions. Now by reason of the great scarcity of Water in Moscou, the first thing they lay their hands to, is to disjoynt the Houses, and therefore for the most part are train'd up in that kind of Architecture, to be assistant again in the rebuilding of the same, when all danger is supposed to be over.

Great but miry Streets.The streets of Moscou are very spacious and wide, but in rainy weather so miry, that in walking you are up to the very knees in mud; for which reason both Men and Women are fain to wear Boots. Al­though 'tis certain that inconvenience might be remedy'd, by paving it with stone, as they do in the Low-Countreys and else where. During the time we were there, it was not possible to thwart the streets if they had not thrown great beams and planks across the way.

The Air. Moscou, and all the whole Countrey towards the North is capable of a very unwholsom Air, for those that are not brought up in it, being in the Winter exceeding sharp and cold, and in the Summer hot and moyst. In Winter they muffle up their Nose and Ears in Furs, especially when they go upon a Journey. And in Moscou it is well seen that many of the Inhabitants have neither Nose nor Ear, which they say is by coming out of the bitter cold Air into a hot Stove: for [Page 135] although it may seem strange, yet cannot that be avoided in some places, unless they rub their Noses and Ears, which are frozen, in Snow till they grow hot, which done they may come into a House without danger, and this you shall see them continually a doing in such Seasons. It is also observable how that after a hard Winter the very Earth chinks and opens when it once begins to thaw. But on the contrary, it is there so hot in the Summer that a stranger cannot en­dure it, at what time also the Marshes and standing Pools do so stink that one is ready to faint away: besides the great annoyance of Gnats, Muskettos and other Vermin, against which there is no way to de­fend ones Face. The Pestilence is seldom ever known there, The Countrey Sic [...]ness. but in lieu there of another Epidemy, which so torments them in their Bow­els that those that are taken with it rarely recover, or live above 3 days. Some I have heard say that in times past it was far more frequent and rigorous than at this day, for before, they had not the use of Physic nor would admitt of any that professed it to practise, as of late, find­ing the great benefit thereof, they have done.

Moscovia is a Countrey of a fat and fertile Soil, far beyond that of Lifeland. Their Wheat, Ry, Barley and Oats, they sow about St. Iohns day at Midsummer, which within 7 or 8 Weeks is fit for the Sickle, or Sithe (for they use both) and that by reason of the con­stant heat. They have besides the beforementioned fruments, good store of Pulse, as Pease, Beans and Lentils. Cucumbers, Pompions and Melons are more common there than with us, of which last I have seen some weighing above 40 pound. The Fruits they have are Pears, Apples, Quinces, Medlars, Cherries Plumbs, and of these several kinds. There grows in the Countrey lying upon the River Mosequa a kind of an Apple so transparent that you may discern the Seeds, as Grapes: The Shell or Rind thereof is very thin and subtile and the Fruit it self very delicate, but too juycy, and after a long Rain so wa­trish that they grow insipid. 'Tis generally known abroad that Moscovia affoards Flax and Hemp to that exuperancy, that they supply almost all Europe with Rope-work. The next Staple-Commoditie of Moscovia is Wax and Honey, which the Russians take wild and make a vast profit thereof. In short there is no Vegetable of general use with us, but what likes there, save only the Vine, which the Extremity of the Winter will not suffer to like or come to perfection: but that [Page 136] defect is sufficiently supplied from abroad, by the English, Dutch and others, who bring the Products of every Vintage from France and else where. They have no Mines save only of Steel and Iron.

Of their Cattel. Russia if taken in general is better stored with tame Cattel and Wild­beasts than any Countrey in Europe, or as some beleeve, in the whole World. Kine is without doubt in greater abundance there than in Tartary, agreeable to the opinion of all Travailers and Geographers, who have given an account of either. The rich Furs which are yearly exported hence to most places of the World sufficiently testify the superabundancy of Foxes, Sables, Martens, &c. But most dange­rous it is to travel alone for the many Beasts of prey which run toge­ther in vast and innumerable Troops; and those, when the Earth is covered with Snow, very bold and daring, insomuch that the In­habitants are in continual danger, and are fain to keep their gates barricado'd from those cruel Animals, to secure themselves and their Cattel; nay, it has been often known that they have undermined Houses in some parts, Fowl. and devoured whole Families at a time. Wild-Fowl I have seen of several kinds, as chiefly Heath-hens, Herns, Wildgeese, and Cranes by Millions in a flock together. As for small­birds, by which I mean Larks, Finches and the like, which we hold for great delicacies, they have them in litle, or no esteem, and that by reason of the vast swarms, for they fly together as thick as Gnats or Infects over a Pond. These are havock'd by the Hawks, Faulcons and Merlins, which are there in a proportionable plenty to the prey. The Rivers and standing Lakes are stored with Fish of all kinds, and Fish. which are throughout the whole Land incredibly cheap; in sum Moscovia has whatsoever is necessary for Food and Rayment, as good and at as easy rates, as any other Land in the World, none excluded: altho I do not say but that one Province differs much from another, and that every particular Province and Region has something or other, as proper or peculiar to it's self.

Woldo­mir. Wolodomir is reputed to be of so good a Soil, that from one Bushel of pure Grain sown is sometimes 20 or 25 produced in Harvest and yet Rhesan is reckoned far more fertile than the other, for from every single Seed ariseth 3 stalks, Rhesan. and sometimes more, which is not com­monly found in any other Province in all Russia. This Province af­foards likewise the best and most Beavers.

[Page 137]The Dutchy of Syberia is the most woody of all other Provinces within the Empire of the great Czaar, especially towards the Northeast where at Braquin there is a Wood which takes it's beginning, Syberia. the end whereof none ever yet was known to find out. This Wood is the main place whence the Moscovians fetch their richest Pelure and Furs, as Ermins, Sables and Black Fox, which is one of the richest Pelts in the World. Volske, Volske, Smolens ko and Beleosor. Ustioga. Rostof. Smolensko and Beleasor deliver vast quantities of Skins and Furs, which the Inhabitants bring up yearly to Moscou and other eminent Marts. Ustioga is a Province that yields great store of Cattel, and many sorts of Fish, yet very Barren as to grain. Rostof is the only Province for Salt. Dwino is a barren and dry land, but the Inhabitants obtain great Riches of the Furs, which is the Principal Trading of that Province. These they barter with what Commodities and Ne­cessaries they find themselves destitute of. In this Province are many white Bears, which seem to live as well by Sea as Land. Viatke. Viatke has great want of Grain, yet store of Fish, Honey, Wax, and also Pelts. Petzora, is very montanous, Petzora. in which Principality I have heard it averr'd, That there are some mountains that require 10 days work to ascend. The Valleys of this Province are fertile enough, High Moun­tains. and very good pasturage, yet Corn will not take kindly there. What may be further said of Astrachan, and the Tartarian Regions, now in sub­jection to the Great Duke, I shall wave till I come to make mention of things, as I found them upon our Arrival there.

CHAP. V. The Form, Nature and Propertie of the Russes. Their ordinary Diet. Their great esteem of Brandy. Their litigious humors and inclinations to Quarrelling. Their ordinary Habit. Women use painting of their Faces. Their manner of their Marriages, and nuptial Solemnities.

THe right Moscovians, or Russians (for the Tartars now under Pro­tection of the Czar we shall speak of in their due place) are mostly able, corpulent and big, especially of Head, Arms and Legs. The Common sort are very hard by Nature and patient in extremity, sel­dom pamper their Bodies with soft lying, when they rest, or delicat Diet when they eat. In summer they lie upon boards, or at best upon [Page 138] straw, and in Winter on the tops of their Ovens, or Cackels, where Man and Wife, Children and Servants lie all down together, with­out any distinction at all. Utensils they have not many, but so many as themselves judge needfull, which are Earthen or Iron Pots, Woo­den Dishes, Brandy-and Metheglin-Cups, which they rarely rince. As for rubbing and scouring they are meer strangers to it, as also to ornaments and Toys, unless it be a Figure which they call St. Nicholas, or perhaps some other Saint for whom they have some particular or extraordinary veneration. Slaves they are by nature, and born to servitude and Bondage, seldom ever aspiring so high, as to indeavour to make themselves franc, and yet will be excited to nothing by fair means, or use diligence about any affair, save what they are driven to by constraint and blows: and yet so sweet this Slavery seems to be to them, that rather than to become free upon the Decease of their Lords to whom they ow allegiance by nature or o­therwise, that they will immediatly sell themselves durante vitâ to some other Patron. They are very prone to Theft, yea and to Murther when they think that they can do it clandestinly, or to any advantage, how poor soever it be, which seems to be primordially occasioned from the Penury of their Lords, who hardly allow them what is re­quisit to support and sustain human Bodies: as for Brandy and To­bacco they hold it but a venial Transgression to filch when they can come at it, notwithstanding the strict and severe Laws against Theft, in the lowest nature and lest importance.

This only is to be applied to the Vulgar sort, as for those of greater Ability and Rank, they spare not for what tends to a voluptuous Life, and indulge their sences, as much or more than is tolerable. Free they are, and indeed generous enough at their Table, especially when they treat or welcom Strangers, who are very welcom and re­ceived with all imaginable Urbanity, on Condition, that they observe the Countrey fashion, which is to bring a Present with them, that may countervail more than thrice the value of what is set before them: and this if you forget to bring, you may take my word, they'l forget to make you welcom. The Slaves in Moscou are very hardly dealt with­all and poorly fed, but much harder those that are in the open Coun­trey, where their Lords are sparing of their Allowance, and therefore connive at their Filching; thinking it falls out at last to their own [Page 137] profit, especially if it be any thing of Food.

The Russes feed most of Roots, Pulse and Fish, Their Diet. use much Onions and Garlick in their Pottage and also for sauces. Their Bread is mostly of Course Ry. As for Fish they eat it rather pickled than fresh, which is plentifull in their Markets, and by reason that washing and making clean the shambles is a kind of an Abomination to those people, you cannot come within a hundred paces of the Market, unless you stop your nose, so nauseous and hatefull is the smell. Those of the grea­test Rank and ability do in general hold good Tables, but eat most Spoon-meat although it were but bread out of Water that Fish has been boil'd in. Cavear is a great Dainty amongst them, but not so high in e­steem, there as abroad. When they have drunk more than well agrees with them, so that their stomach be surcharged, they prepare a certain Dish which they call Pochmelie made up of cold Beef or Mutton sliced very thin, and Quas: Quas is a Liquor which they use as Beer of which it is made, with a Composition of Water, Beer-Vinegar, Garlick and Pepper: this Quas being so prepared they put their meat into it, and seeth it a litle, which afterwards they eat with Spoons. The poorer sort have a certain Liquor much in use among them, which they also call Quas, this is made of Water with a litle Bran and Barley-meal, which according to their ability they temper thicker or thinner. The Gentry drink Beer, that there is very strong and heady, but more commonly Metheglin, which they make of the best Honey, adding Cloves, Cinnamon, Pepper, Galangal, Cardamom and other Spices: This is a very strong and stealing Liquor of it self; yet they think good to mix it with Brandy to make it more effectual. Brandy which they call Wina they covet above all other Liquors, which without any discretion or noted difference is drunk both by Spiritual and Temporal, Nobles and Plebeïans, Men and Women, Young and Old, and that at all times of the Day, before and after Meals; Sometimes to add a medicinal vertue they put a litle Pepper amongst it. Nay, so besotted are the Vulgar with Brandy, that in the sharpest Weather, they will not only part with their Caps or Coats for the Reckoning, but likewise with their Boots, Shirts and Stockings, so that I have seen some of them come mother-naked out of the Kaback or Tipling-House. The Common people were formerly so irregular and void of Order that they would drink themselves full, [Page 140] and afterwards the men and Women, setting aside all Reputation and Modesty commit sensual and beastly Actions together: This great Disorder was lately remedied by the care of the Czar, who, by the advice of the Patriarch, put down all the small Tap-houses throughout the whole Empire, appointing in every Town and Village one public House, or Kaback, which they are to farm of the Emperour himself. They are very covetous of Tobacco, as has been elsewhere said, notwithstanding the Tenure of a Decree or Mandate promul­gated about the year 1634, which strictly forbids every person of what degree or quality he may be, to smoke it: which nevertheless is done privately.

The Russians are generally gross of Body yet subtile enough in affairs of Merchandise which they can manage very well. Their Women are much inclined to Gossiping, and busie Tatlers, often beat by their Husbands, who sometimes use them unkindly: upon which they sometimes address themselves to Court, where the men once convicted over such Crimes are sent to Syberia. The Emperour considering the multitude of Complaints of this nature, has ordained that if any Woman makes complaint without sufficient Evidence, that the Man is to be tortured on the Rack, which if he stands out, the Wife is con­demned to exile, her self, before which Law the Court was dayly troubled with such like Differences.

Backbi­ting and Jarring a proper­ty of the Russians.Few people, there are in the World that are more accustomed to scolding, railing and calumny than these, although 'tis very rare to see them come to blows, yet much more rarely do they make use of their Weapons. This evil custome of abusing one another oftentimes is the occasion of Quarrels with Strangers to whom it seems a No­velty.

Their Habit.The ordinary Habit of the Citizens, is first an upper Coat of a dark green, red, brown or violet-colour'd Silk, open before and on the sides, and garnished with loops, having behind great Capes, almost like old-fashioned Cloaks in the Low-Countreys: Under that they wear another coat of Say or Silk, with a high and stiff Collar, these have long sleeves which are tied up round with loops and stand Cooks in good stead to remove hot Pots and Cauldrons from the fire: Those that have, an intent or design to steel or murther, usually have an iron Bullet, or some other hard and ponderous thing where­with [Page 141] they knock their party down at unawares. Under this they wear yet another Coat which nevertheless is not very close, for they affect loosness as well in their Habit as in their life. Their shirts they tuft with Silk on the back, as also the Necks, which the Gentry adorn with Pearls, Gold, Silver, or Precious stones. In Summer the Citizens wear white Felts, in Winter Caps turned with Beaver or some other Furs, and the Kneeses, Bojars and other Persons of the greatest quality Black Fox and Sables. The Habit of the Women is not so much different from that of their Men, as they differ from each other, agree­able to the Quality of the Person. They wear generally Caps turned with Sables or other Furs but greater than the Mens, set with Pearls and Rubies upon the Crown, under which they let their Hair hang in its full length, these are those of higher Rank and Quality; those of meaner Condition have them only turned with red Fox. The Young-women when they grow Marriageable, have their hair knotted up above the crown of the Head in a round ball, but under the age of 10 or 12 years have their Heads all shaven, except only two Tufts that hang down on each side so that they can hardly be distinguished from Boys in their Habit, only the Girls are known by the great rings which hang at their Ears. On this manner the Gentry and Citizens are attired, but the Peasantry as poorly as those of Lifeland, and much after the same manner. Their Upper-garment is ordinarily of sheeps-skins, with a Cap of the same stuff; their Boots and Shooes are made of the Barks of Trees cunningly plated.

The Women are by nature well proportioned, Painting of faces in use a­mong the Russian Women. and fair enough to boot if they did not paint, which they do so botchingly that every one may discern it. Spanish Wool and Tincture of Brazil-wood it seems they do not yet know the use of, but instead of that use Vermi­lion and Minium, and for Flake, a dull White-Lead, or Ceruse at best.

The Reader may observe that their manner of Marriages is far different from that in the Low-Countreys, Of their Marria­ges. and all Europe elsewhere a Young-man having fixed his eie upon some Maid with whom he could be content to enter into a nuptial state, he Courts her and Solicits by Friends to make an Overture. A Russian Youth inclinable to admitt himself into the conjugal number detects his purpose and desire to his Parents, or nearest in Consanguinity, who thereupon [Page 124] go about and seek out a Virgin suiting his Degree and Condition, whom having found, they apply themselves to her Parents or Guar­dians, to treat about the subject; where neither the Young man nor any near Relation of his are to see the Bride, in sum the Purchase is like a Pig in a Poke, for all people of fashion keep their Daughters chamber'd, setting always an old Woman to look to her, who is as vigilant in her Office, as a Turn-key at Wood-street Counter. And hence it comes that they live in perpetual Jarrs, and contention, when sometimes in hopes of a sweet, well-shaped, and comely Darling, they are chain'd to a stinking, crooked and deformed Hag. This induces me to a Tale of a young Squire, who thinking himself old enough to be a man, intimated his Inclinations to a common Broker, or Match-maker, withall conditioning beforehand that he would not come to any conclusion with the Parents of his Party, till he had by some means or other got a sight of her Face, which the man pro­mised to do; and accordingly goes to an old Couple who had long intreated him to procure a Husband for their Daughter: this said Couple he acquaints with the business who no less joyfull to under­stand it pray'd him to hasten the Match: now you are to understand by the way that their daughter had but one eie, which made some difficulty in the carrying on the matter, by reason that the Young man would not venture upon the purchase, unless he saw what kind of a Bargain he had: However the Broker gives her instructions, how to behave her self in passing by the House where this Youngman was to be, and bad her look alwaies on one side, which she did. The young man peeping through a crevise, saw her have a good half face, assents to the Articles and Propositions whatsoever they should be, but comming before the Altar, was so concerned that he took an Ax and clove his own head.

They have many quaint Ceremonies about Marriage: those of the highest Rank use these following Rites. The Bridegroom and Bride have each of them one to attend them, to prepare and provide all necessaries; these they call Swachas. The day before the Wedding the Brides Swacha goes to the Bridegrooms House to provide and furnish the Brides Chamber and Bed with what else is requisite, being atten­ded with 60, 80, or perhaps 100 Persons according to the degree and ability of the Parties. These all go in their under-cloaths, bearing [Page 143] each something upon their Heads which will be requisite at the Mar­riage. Having once entred the Chamber she takes the Bed and spreads it upon 40 small Garbs of Ry, which is first brought thither by her Husband, together with a great number of litle Barrels, containing several sorts of Grain, set up and down the Room, which perhaps will signify Fruitfullness in procreation. The next morning the Bride­groom goes to the House of the Bride accompanied with the Priest who is to marry them, where they are kindly received by the Friends of the Bride, and invited to sit down, and here they have 3 sorts of Dishes brought before them, which they nevertheless touch not. Here the Bridegroom is to tarry so long discoursing with the Friends of the Bride, till she sends a Servant to introduct him into her Chamber, where being come she is brought in, stately apparrel'd, and set by his side, but he not suffered to look her in the Face, nor she him, and when they cannot withhold their curiosity but offer to look aside, as longing to see that dear Visage, which ever after they may mutually do with more freedom than any other in the World, there is a Flag or Tablet of red Silk set between them, to hinder it. When they are set the Brides Swacha plates the Hair of the Bride, and sets a Gold or Silver Coronet upon her Head, richly set with Precious stones and Gems, to which are fixed two long Pendants of Diamonds, or (if it be Persons of a lower Calibre) of baser stones, these hang down to their Breasts. So soon as the Bride is dress't, the Bridegrooms Swacha likewise combs his head; upon which all the Women fall a dancing. After they have danc'd a litle, there come in two young men with a Basket of White bread and a great Cheese upon a Barrow, covered with Sables, which is consecrated by the Priest and sent to the Church. When this Ceremonie is ended, they bring a great Silver Charger, and set it upon the Table, in which are laid some pieces of Atlas, and Taf, with several Square plates of Silver, as also a handfull of Hops, Barley and Oats, mixt together: upon that that the Swacha arises and covers the Face of the Bride, and strows the mentioned things out of the Charger amongst the Guests, when as those that are minded may take up the pieces of Silver. When that is done the Parents of the Parties interchange the Rings of the young people.

When these Ceremonies are ended, the Swacha sets the Bride in a [Page 144] Riding-sledge which is richly accoutred and set out with Cloth of Gold, and Fringes suitable: The Horse is also covered with costly Trappings and rich Furrs. Then follows the Bridegroom, accom­panied with the Priest both on Horse-back; and after them the Friends on both sides. When they enter the Church the Bridegroom takes his Place which is covered with Taffataf, whither also the Bride is brought. When they are set together there are several Images of Saints set up before them, upon which the Priest pronounces a Blessing: and afterward taking the Bridegroom by the right hand, and the Bride by the left, asks, Are you content to enter the state of Ma­trimony together? The Parties then answering, Yea, the Priest sings the 128 Psalm, which they likewise mutter out after him. This done the Priest sets a Garland upon their Head, uttering these Words, Increase and multiply, what GOD joyns together let no man seperate. Then all the Friends light their Torches, and the Priest takes a Glass of Red Wine into his Hand, which he delivers over to the Bridegroom and Bride to drink off, then taking the empty Glass from them delivers it to the Bridegroom who throws it down and the Bride stamps it with her foot to powder, saying, So may they fall before our feet, and be crushed to powder, who go about to set us at enmity together. Upon that the Married Women strow them with Hemp, wishing them Prosperity and a happy union. These Ceremonies being ended they return home again after the same manner that they went to Church. So soon as they have entred the House, the Bridegroom goes and takes his seat at the Table where he receives, and bids all his Guests welcom but the Bride is brought directly into her Chamber where the Swacha undresses her to the Shift and lays her down upon the bed, The Bride being thus laid sends to call her Bridegroom by two of her Servants with Torches in their Hands. Immediately upon his entring the Chamber▪ she jumps out of the Bed and puts on a Gown fur'd with Sables, and giving him the hand goes out with him, but her Servants in the mean time put out their Torches by running them into one of the litle Barrels [mentioned in Pag. 142] Thus hand in hand they go to the Table where all the Guests sit. The first Dish which is brought up is a roasted Pullet, this the Bridegroom himself is to carve and throws some part thereof over his Shoulder which the Brides Swacha catches in a Napkin, and keeps for a Monument. When the Meal is [Page 145] done the Bridegroom takes his Bride by the hand and so leading her to her chamber they go to bed, upon which all are to go out of the Chamber, and the Music which sits before the Window expecting Notice of it imediately fall a playing, and upon that a noise of Trum­petters begin to sound, and sometimes the Kettel-Drums to beat. After they have been about an hour in Bed the Swachas come and conduct them to the Bath, where they are both bathed and washed with Wine, Water and Metheglin, dulcified with odorous flowers and spices, and, as the custome is at Moscou, the Bride presents her Bridegroom with a Bathing shirt. After they have bathed they come and accompany their Guests, who all the time were merry at Table, in which Humors they continue sometimes a Week, or 10 days, before they depart to their respective Lodgings.

The foregoing Ceremonies are such as those of the best rank use, by which you may perceive more vanity than Reason in this Folk: However I think we have no great cause to hiss at them for their folly, since we have as many insignificant Rites amongst our selves, which are with them equally senceless and as plain puerility, as theirs may be esteemed by us.

But as for the Plebeïans and Pesantry theirs is after a different manner. The day before the Marriage is to be solemnized, the Bride­groom sends a Kinsman of his own to the Brides House with new ap­parel, a Cap, a pair of boots, a Comb and a Box of painting and other materials for Rigging. The day following comes the Priest and gives the benediction: which done, he brings them a Looking-glass requiring them to look into it both at once. In the mean while the Swachas strow the Guests with Hops wishing that the Bride may be as fruitfull and increase her stock, as that hopefull Weed. After that comes another who presents the Bride with a Sable or Beaver-skin, withall wishing her so many Children as there are Hairs upon the Hide. These Ceremonies ended at home they go to Church, and are married. in manners as before.

After the Wedding is past, the Women keep at home for sometime together, not daring to stirr out.

CHAP. VI. Divorcement among the Russes and the sundry occasions thereof. Their Superstition about Cleanness and Ʋncleanness. Baths, and the use of the same. The Hardiness and Patience of the Russes in suffering the Extremities of Heat, or Coldness. Some strange customes among the Russes. Solemnities at the Burial of their Dead.

SO much, kind Reader, may serve by way of account about their Marriages, as to what I have observed my self, although I am sen­sible some have written otherwise and described these Solemnities much different to what I have found them, yet rather willing to fee with my own eies than with anothers, so I thought fit likewise, rather to give you these few Memorials with my own pen than (as some Plagiaries of late have done) transcribe out of others.

Divorce­ment a­mong the Russes.If we regard the forementioned Manner of their procuring Wives, without any former sight or conversation, Reason will inform us, that they must needs live discontented Lives, which oftentimes turn to Divorcement at last. Divorcements are with them very frequent and those obtained upon very easy terms; for when either partie finds themselves too weak at blows, and not able to repugn the other, 'tis only to shave and betake themselves to a Cloyster, whence they may never be brought out by any legal mean. The Man so going into a Cloyster is capable of Holy Orders, after a certain Term of years, if he be accordingly qualified. They are also divorced when either Party is convict of Fornication, and the Offender confined to a Mo­nastery. Barrenness is also the Occasion of Divorcement, upon which the Wife becomes a Nun, and the Husband may marry again within six Weeks.

But those who marry again after once Divorced are for ever after excluded the Church, yet may enter the Porch or Gallery, but if they be divorced a second time and married a third, they are totally Excluded the Church and Congregation.

They have several superstitious Ceremonies concerning purity, as to the outward, and carry themselves very strictly according to the Traditions of the Church. They hold it not for so hainous a Sin [Page 147] to perform the Works of Unchastity with a Woman, as to do it in presence of an Image, or having their Cross about them, for that they lay off upon such Occasions, and if it be in the Room where an Image hangs, they draw a Curtain before it, as if they were sure that that Image was an Informer, and one that got Bread and Butter for telling School-tales.

They are very observing of their Duty in the great Fast at which time if any man among them chance to sleep, he is forbidden to communicate, during the Term of a year and 9 days. If it be a Priest he is suspended from Office and Benefice for a whole year; but if a Proponent, he is rendred incapable of taking any sacred Function upon him so long as he lives.

They hold it for a Crime unpardonable for a Russian to marry with a Stranger, but to commit Adultery with a Heretic-Woman only Ve­nial and pardonable in it's own nature, but if a Woman of that nation become Prostitute to another of a different Opinion to their own, it is not accounted so hainous, by reason that the Offspring may be educated in their Religion, and consequently tends to the Increase of the Church, for they have a Maxim contrary to that of S. Paul, Ne faciamus mala ut eveniant bona, Let us not do Evil that Good may come of it.

These external superstitions of purification are the main reason that every person that is of any Considerable Ability, has a Bathing-tub in his House, which in Turky and Persia are equally made use of for Purification and Health. They have also Common Baths in every Town and Village, whither both Men and Women, without any distinction have recourse; running in and out naked, only some of the Women for Modesty sake have a few Bur-dock leaves about their middle, which are first dried and afterward laid to steep in Oil of Olives, which afterwards they rub their Bodies with, in the Sweating-tub. They can indure extremity of Heat and Cold to a Miracle, for I have seen them run out of the Water, which I could not suffer my finger in, and of a sudden over Head and Ears in Snow, where they would lay a quarter or half an Hour and then into the Bath again, that remained scalding hot, which if one should do who is not hardned to it from the very Cradle, he were sure to leave his skin be­hind him. Besides the several Instances I have already given you, [Page 148] I have seen the Children walking over the Ice, without either Boots, Shoes or Stockings, and that in such piercing cold Weather that we could not go out of Doors.

The Dutch Merchants that have their Residence at Moscou, have also (conformable to the manner of the Countrey) their Baths, which they strow with odoriferous Spices and Flowers, and make frequent use thereof. When they have bathed so long as they think good, they have a Retiring-room in which is a Sweating-tub or Stove, whither they go and rub themselves.

The Russians as they differ from all other Nations as well in Reli­gion as in Habit, so they have several Customes, Gestures and Actions proper solely to themselves. Their Shirt they wear above their Breches and tie it above the Wast with a Girdle, like their upper Garments; When they Whistle they do it through their Teeth, not with their lips, saying, that in so doing they abuse their true shape in which GOD has formed them: When they are surprized either with Wonder, or a sudden Danger, they do not throw back their Head, like the Hollanders, nor shrink up their Shoulders, as do the Spaniards, but throw their Head first upon one Shoulder, and then upon another, or perhaps turn it round, as a Fencer flourishes his Rapier, or an Ensign his Colours in token of Victory.

When they pray they do it not upon their knees as we do, thinking that GOD is displeased with such an irregular posture: and when they write they never make use of a Table, altho they have one at their el­bow, but alwaies upon their knees; and what they write is altogether in Rolls, pasting one sheet to another as they write them. Fatness they hold for a prime token of Beauty, as also long fore head and eies for which they pull and draw as much as they can to correct nature, which in things of smaller moment they seem to abhor and detest, if a property of other People.

Ceremo­nies in Vi­sitation of their Sick.About the Sick and Burial of their Dead the Russes have these following Customes. When any lies Sick, and by his Friends thought in danger of long Continuance or Death, they send for a Priest who administers the Communion to him, he first confessing the most noted Sins he can remember that he has done in his life time, to the Priest alone, adding a Promise and Resolution to live a pious and devout Life, if GOD grant him recovery. When he has communicated, [Page 149] they shave, anoint and put him in a Monks-hood, which they call the Seraphic Weed: After which they administer no more Physic to him, but commend him to the Grace of GOD. Now if it happen that he recover, he is obliged to abandon Wife, Children and Estate for ever, and betake himself to a Monastery, where he is to spend the re­mainder of his days.

But if our Patient dy, Ceremo­nies and Questions propoun­ded to the dead. then all the Neighbours and Friends come together to bewail the deceased asking the Corps, how he came to dy, and for what reason, for what defect or want, like those of Madagascar, remembred in my first Voyage. I remember that having occasion to visit a Countreyman of mine upon a Munday morning I entred the House, where the Master was dead and the Corps laid out, above a score of old Women, were set round about him, and speaking to him as if they expected some answer from him; but above all, his Wife began to howl and yell aloud, who in his life time wished him a thousand times in Hell, for he behaved himself very severely towards her. Oh, quoth she, Timminni Do Shinca [for that was his name] my Dearest, how hast thou left me thus? What failing didst thou discover in me? Did I ever neglect to paint my self? Have I not brought forth a fair Issue? Hadst not thou all things at Command? Metheglin I am sure we had always in plenty, nay, and Brandy too. What then perswaded thee to leave me desolate and forlorn, Oh remember the disconsolate state of Widdow-hood and return to the merry World, &c. These, and many other foolish expressions by way of Interrogation, she accosted him with, which made me at first to think that he was not fully dead. So soon as the Party is depar­ted they open the Windows, and set Basons of Holy-water, together with several Dishes of meat beside the Body, to relieve his Wants on so long and tedious a Journey, as do the Circas Tartars; which seems to be the Reliques of Heathenism, not long since professed in many parts of Russia. Imediately upon his departure they send Brandy, and Beer, with other Liquors and Presents to the Priest, who is to pray for his Soul. The Body they wash from Head to foot, as doe the Jews, then winding it in a sheet, put it into a Coffin which is hol­lowed out of a Tree, and so carried to Church, where they besprinkle it with holy Water, and perfume it with Incense; which done they say Mass, and with several Hymns commit it to the Ground.

But if a Person die without administration of the Extreme Unction, [Page 150] be Murthered, or Frozen to death, or die by any unnatural or vio­lent means, whether casual, or thereto condemned to satisfy Justice, the Corps is not permitted to enter the Sanctuary, but carryed to a place to that end appointed, which they call Zemski Precaus, where it is exposed to public view, and if it be a person unknown, is to remain there 3 or 4 days to see if any will own the Body, which if none come to claim it is immediately carried to another Place without Town, which they call Boghze Dome, that is Gods House, and there thrown into a great Pit, where sometimes a Hundred or more Bodies lie on a Heap uncovered, till about Midsummer, at what time, the Priests go and cover them, with a few Rites and Ceremonies.

The Ceremonies which are used in some places in Russia differ from others. About Moscou the Corps is follow'd by a Train of Gentle­women who are nearest in Consanguinity or Affinity, who with a great Noise and Howling bewail the early departure of their Friend, then presently all are silent, that not one is so much as heard to whis­per, or give a Sigh, and then on a sudden elevate their Voice and yell out like some of the more bruitish and savage Irish.

On each side the Herse go the Priests, Chaplains and Monks, bearing Images, Torches, and a Thurible, or Incense-pan, which is all the while waved to and again, to expell Evil Ghosts which they believe still haunt the Body of the Deceased. After the Corps follow the Friends and Acquaintance, without any order, each car­rying a Wax-tapour in the Hand. When they come to the Grave, the Coffin is opened and the Incense pan swing'd 3 times over the Corps in remembrance of the H. Trinity, and then the Image of that Saint which he in his Life time made choice of for his Patron, is thrown into the Coffin with him, upon which all his Relations come near and take their last view of him, kiss the Coffin and go back­ward. When the Friends have so taken their leave the Priest delivers him a Letter superscribed to Saint Nicholas, containing a hearty recommendation of the Deceased. A copy of one of these came once to my hand which before I had Transcribed it out, was taken from me by a Priest being the Brother of the Gentleman who lent it me, for it is not lawfull for a Russian himselfe to know the Contents, much less for a Heretic. The Paraphrase of the Fragment was after this Manner,

This fragment is all I can give you of the Letter, which as I told you was taken from me. The body being interred they return home, where they junket and drink till they forget their Sorrow. This feast dures sometimes a Moneth or 40 days, according to the ability of the Person: among others it is not customary to make one long Feast at the Funeral, but an anniversary Meal, and cele­brate that same day every year in remembrance of the Deceased.

CHAP. VII. The Religion and Church-Government of the Russians. The Patriarch and his Office. Of their Sacraments, &c.

THe Moscovians are professedly Christians, The Religion and Church-Govern­ment of the Russi­ans. but tainted with many superstitious Ceremonies about Imagery and other Relicts of Gentilism; which the good Emperour Basilius about the year 989. rooted out of his Empire, baptizing himself, and causing all his Subjects to do the like. They boast mainly of their Continuance and Conformity with the Primitive Church, which they say is still the same in purity without the stains of Innovation, as indeed in many things it seems to be nearer than the Church of Rome, aswell in matter of Faith as Government of the Church.

[Page 152]The Church of Moscovia has like that of Rome, one supreme Head, who is the Patriarch. Under the Patriarch are 4 Metropolitans, 4 Arch-Bishops, besides many other Bishops, Abbots and the Inferior Clergy. The Patriarch is almost Sovereign in Spiritual Affairs, having an absolute and immediate power without any appendency on the Temporal Government unless it be in case of inducing Heresy, upon which he must Submit to a Synod, as in the year 1662, a General Council was called, and the Patriarch summoned to make his ap­pearance; at what time he was impeached for Innovations, and in­devouring to alienate the present condition of the Church and reform it's Government by diminishing Image-worship, which he held for litle better than Idolatry. After many days sitting that Council thought fit to confine him to his Mansion-House, and ordain the First Metropolitan in his room, who was then living when I was at Moscou. The Revenues of the Patriarch, as also of the Metropolitans, are very great, out of which they are obliged to levy and Maintain an Army of 15000 men, during the time of War.

The Habit of the Patriarch, and the Metropolitans differ but litle. The Patriarch has always a great Crosier born before him, or a litle one in his hand and sometimes both, this they call a Posok. Mitres they wear only upon Convocations or high Assemblies, and upon solemn Occasions. Abroad they are distinguished by a high Cap, flat at top like the Switzers, or Yeomen of the Guard. Next their Bodie they wear a Cassoc, and above that a long Gown or rather a Pall, which is born up by two Gentlemen. The Inferior Clergy and Priests wear a Cap but not so high as that of the Superiors. This Cap is given them when they are ordained by the Bishops, at what time they shave their Heads, and suffer it to grow no more, save in two litle tufts just above their ears.

There is a Law among them that whosoever beats one of those Clerks so, that his cap fall to the ground, he is liable to a very severe pe­nalty (if I well remember to loose his hand) which nevertheless happens frequently in the Cabac: but to prevent the worst when a Lay­man is minded to beat one of those Mushrooms, he first takes off his Cap and then trounces him off so long as he will, which done he sets the Cap upon the right Block again.

[Page 153]The Clergy are not forbidden Marriage, nor none that serve at the Altar, but on the contrary are obliged to marry, and that only once, Of the Marriage of the Clergy. gathering that from the Saying of S. Paul. A Bishop ought to be the Husband of one Wife. Nor is it lawfull for him to marry a Widow. If a Priests wife come to die before him, he is not only injoyned by the Church to remain a Widdower, but also to leave the Altar, yet not wholly to lay down the Priestly Function, for he may sit in the Chore or Chauntry and assist at Mattins and Vespers, as also at Admini­stration of the Sacraments, as far as it is done without the Verge of the Altar. For this reason the Priests are best matched, as usually making much of their Wives, and treating them more gently than the Laïty generally do, lest by hard usage they should drive them into melancholy, and consequently send them too early out of the World, which sends them as suddenly from the Altar.

Baptism they hold forth as a Sacrament very necessary, Of Bap­tism. for which reason they make as litle delay as may be between the Womb and the Font. If they fear the Child be weak they have it Baptized at home, but never in the same Room where it is born, for that they hold un­clean. The Consponsors or God-fathers being come to the Church Porch, the Priest meets them and repeats the Benediction. The Godfathers deliver 9 Wax-candles to the Priest, which he places round about the Font afterwards turning about toward the East mutters out a Versicle or two, then taking the Incens-pan goes round about the Font, which done he sings a Psalm or Hymn, making a brief Oraizon, and after that demands the name of the Infant which is delivered him in writing. So soon as he has read the Billet, askes, whether the Child beleeves in the Sacred Trinity? and, Whether he utterly Forsake the Devil, &c. To which they confidently reply in the Affirmative. Then the Priest pronounces this Adjuration, Get thee hence, than unclean Spirit, and make way for the Holy Ghost, Then he takes the child into his Arms, blowing three times in his Face, and making a cross upon his Head, dips it three times in Water, Saying, I baptize thee in the Name of the FATHER, and of the SON, and of the HOLY GHOST. Having thus plunged the Infant, he puts some Salt into it's mouth, anointing the Fore head, Breast and Hands with consecrated Oil, and then draws a clean white shirt over it's Body, which done he saith, Now thou art cleansed from thy Sins. Last [Page 154] of all he hangs a Cross about it's neck of Gold, Silver, Tin, or Ivory, with the Image of some Saint, to whose Patronage he is spe­cially committed and commended, and so the Sum of this Sacrament is performed. The Water is thrown away into a Cave of the Earth, because it is impure. If any Person be so far besotted, as to become a Proselyte and embrace their Religion, he must renounce his former Baptism, and be rebaptized after their manner, first spitting 3 times over his shoulder in token of Abhorrency of his former Errors.

Their Commu­nion,The Sacrament which we call Coena Domini, or the L. Supper they hold forth likewise as necessary to Salvation, receiving it in both kinds, yet not as is usual among those of the Reformation, for they break the Bread into the Wine, which the Communicant takes with a spoon. This Sacrament is also administred to Children, and all under the Notion of Transubstantiation, altho not in so full a Sence as the Romanists. The Sick do likewise partake of this Sacrament, which is given them upon their Death-bed, as the Host in the Church of Rome.

Auricu­lar Con­fession, Confession is also a Sacrament held forth by them, and is much after the manner of the Church of Rome, and are injoyned to Penance according to the Nature and Degree of the Sin, which they obey wondrous well, and if the Crime be very Hainous, they wash them­selves at the Epiphany.

and Fasts.They have also their weekly and annual Fasts; Four times in the year happens the latter, in which they show themselves outwardly zealous, agreeable to the literal Injunction of the Church; but are at no time so loose and wanton as then, passing away the time in Drinking, Dancing, Gaming Whoreing, and what not? No time, nay all the time in the year round affoards not more news of Murther: and since the Main Fast happens in the Winter, there are many so far besotted that they are not able to find the way home, but dropping asleep by the way are so frozen to death; whence (if they escape the Wolf and Bear) they are carried to the Zemski Precaus, and from thence to the Bogzi Dome, of which we have already made mention.

CHAP. VIII. The Jurisdiction of the Czaar, his Titles, Revenues and strict Justice.

ALl Russia together with the several Kingdoms and Principalities is subject to one Sovereign Monarch, MARC. 1669. Jurisdi­ction of the Czar. whom they call From the Greek Word [...] Caesar. Czaar. The name of the Emperour when I was there, was Alexie Michailowitz Romanou, that is, Alexius, Son of Michael, Roman; for so they use that Patronymic Roman, from Ivan Basilowitz, or Joannes Basilides, who was a Roman by descent, and of Imperial Lineage. The Arms of the Emperour are as follows. ‘ Sol, an Eagle displayed with 2 necks, Saturn, in chief a Mitre Imperial Mars, On the Nombril, on an Escutcheon Jupiter, the Chevalier Saint George, armed proper, and mounted on a Horse Luna, under his feet a Dragon Venus.’

The Czaar is absolute Sovereign and Lord, conferring Dignities and Honours, Subordaining Ministers of State and Officers whether Civil or Military, Coining Money, raising and lessening the Value of the same. Making Peace and Proclaiming War at his own discretion, and in short whatsoever any King in the World can claim as Praero­guative. His Title is as follows.

ALEXIUS Michaïlowitz Romanow, by the grace of GOD Emperour of the Greater, Less and White Russia, Lord of Moscou, Kief, Wolodimera and Novogorod, Czaar of Casan, Czar of Astrachan, Czar of Syberia, Lord of Pletskow, Great Duke of Smolensko, Tweer, Jugoria, Permia, Weatka, Bulgaria, &c. Lord and Great Duke of Novagarada within the Low-Countreys of Zernigou, Rhesan, Rostof, Jerislaw, Belooseria Udoria, Obdoria, Condinia, and absolute Sovereign of the Northern parts as also of Iveria, Cartalinia, Grasinia, Carbadinia, Kirkassia and Georgia, and of many other Provinces and Dominions in the East, West and North, Haereditary Lord and Soveraign,

[Page 156]As the Titles of the Prince are great, so his Revenues are confor­mable. Imperial Revenues The Kabacks or Taverns are altogether farmed through the Empire of the Emperour himself, whereof there are 3 at Novogorod which bring up yearly Ten Thousand Gilders, and so all others according to proportion. The Imposition upon Iron, Corn, Salt, Tar, Furs and other Commodities are very considerable. If so the Revenues of this Prince be Great, so likewise his Court is as sumptuous, and House-keeping very Royal, besides the vast Char­ges in maintenance of the Strelitzers, who are exactly and duly paid.

Of their Iustice.Their Laws, as we have elsewhere said, are very rigorous against Malefactors, and quite different from other Nations. The first and lightest is the Battoki, which is when the Patient is to lie upon his belly, then come two men, one sitting down upon his Neck and the other upon his Leggs, who beat him till the Judge or Officer com­mands them to hold up. The Knutten is a Punishment of a higher degree, and such as usually those that sell Brandy, Metheglin or To­bacco without a special License from the Czar, are punished with, and is after this manner: The Executioners Servant takes the patient and strips him from the middle downwards, and takes him upon his back, which done the Executioner with a scourge of Thongs made of a raw Elks-hide dried gives him a certain number of stripes, ac­cording to a Ticket which is delivered him immediately before he takes the scourge in his hand. This punishment is exceeding severe, and yet not sufficient to suppress continual smuckling, and selling by stealth, which the more they are punish'd and threatned, the more eager they are to do it. The Executioner and his Office are not there so contemptible as with us, for it is sometimes purchased by the most wealthy Merchants in the Land. Other Crimes are punished with Chapping off a Hand or a Foot, and sometimes only a Finger according to the enormity of the crime. False Coiners have liquid mettal poured down their Throats: and Ravishment of Virgins [or as our Laws call it a Rape] is expiated by gelding of the Delinquant, of which if he recover well and good, but it is very rare that any does.

CHAP. IX. Celebration and Solemnity of Palm-Sunday. The Departure of the Author out of Moscou to Astrachan. Heads and Officers. They set Sail. A heavy storm. Arrival at Nisen-Novogorod; Plenty of Provision at Nisen. A description of the famous River Wolga. Beginning of the Cerem Tartars. Their Customs and Nature, Their Idolatrie. Ceremonies about the Dead. Their Habit, Po­lygamy, &c.

ON the 18 ^th of April being Palm-Sunday was celebrated a great Feast, wherein was much Triumph and Joy manifested with Arches and Pageants, amongst which was our Savior his manner of riding to Ierusalem. This Solemnity was performed with an infinite number of People, and led by the Emperour himself in Person, at­tended with all the Bojars and the greatest personages about Court. The Patriarch sat upon a Horse apparelled all in white, representing the L. Jesus Christ. The Czar being supported by two Bojars, led the Horse by the Bridle, being richly apparreled, with an Imperial Diadem upon his Head. The Patriarch, as was said before, was arrayed with a long white Stole, with a Hierarchichal Infula or Mitre upon his Head, richly set with Pearls. In his right Hand was a Cross of Gold set with Diamonds and precious stones, with which he signed the Multitude that came thronging to him with great Reverence and Devotion. He sat cross over the Horse, which Horse was set out with splendid Trappings and richly Capparison'd, after the manner of an Ass. On each side the Patriarch went several Bishops; and the Supe­rior Clergy, with white Surplices, Having Thuribles. The Host, the Chalice, the Pax, Books, Bells, Tapours and other things used at Mass, besides a great number of Flags. The Way from the palace to the Crescent was all laid with Red-cloath. Here it was where the Patriarch first took Horse: the Horse being there tied to a pale. After the Patriarch follow the Bojars, bearing a huge Tree, woven and wound with Silk and Ribbons, as also many sorts of Fruits thereto annexed. Herein sate several litle Children, with Apples, green Twigs and Branches. After all came the Mobile, strowing the way with Branches which they had in their Hands, crying out, Hosanna Son of David, blessed is he that commeth in the name [Page 158] of the Lord, Hosanna in the Highest, &c. When they were returned to the Crescent, the Patriarch gave the Benediction to the Multitude and so the Procession ended. In the Evening the Patriarch sent the Czar 200 A piece of Money valuing about 9s. 6d. Their Ce­lebration of Easter Roebels, for his good service in leading the Horse. I also saw their Paschal Solemnities, at what time they continually kiss one another at meeting, saying, Christ is risen, with one delivering a died Egg, and therefore at this time they have many Booths all over the Town where they have Eggs of all colours to sell. These Ceremonies are so universally observed, that none passes the street without giving and receiving of Eggs of what Condition or Degree soever they be. Towards the Evening, they entertain one another, every one in the best manner he can, as well Clergy as Laïty, and now are all the Taphouses, or Kabacks crouded with men, where they toss off whole Bowls of Metheglin, Brandy and strong Beer, till they fall together by the Ears.

Depar­ture from Moscou to Astra­chan.On the 4 of May, we departed with a A small Vessel al­most like a Huy, a­bout 30 Tuns burthen. Arrival at Co­lomna. Strough from Moscou, which was laden with Ammunition and provision. We were 15 men in all who were sent down with this Vessel. We made quick passage down the River, for the next day we arrived at Colomna, which is 134 English Land-miles by Water, but thwart the Land about 50. This City is well fortified with a strong Wall, and many Turrets. It is seated upon the Mosqua, having a long Wooden Bridge over that River.

On the 6 dito we came into the River Oka, making a deep and broad stream where it unites with the Mosqua. Here we saw a very fair Vil­lage called Dydenof, by some Gedino, and about the Evening we arrived at the Wharf where the Ship Eagle lay, having the Imperial Paludi­ments on her Stern. We were very kindly received by the Heer Cornelius Roeckhoven Coll: and Mr. Lambert the Master, who expressed great joy for our arrival. Besides those were other Officers preferred aboard the Ship, to wit Monsr. Stark Lieut. Coll. 2 Captains, a Chirurgeon a Jeweller, an Interpreter, and a Purser. Their Pay was as follows,

Our whole Company consisted in 20 Dutch.

On the 12 we set Sail from Dydenof which was the Wharf where the Ship Eagle was built, MARC. 1669. conducted by the Col. Boekhoven about 2 leagues downward. The same day in the Afternoon we came to a Town called Nicholo, where we found provision incredibly cheap. Here I bought some Wild-fowl in the Market about as big as Wild-gees, for a A coin about the value of a Penny. Kopeke the Couple, and satisfyed my Chapman to the full.

On the 13 we came to Omula, which is a Village about 40 [ English] Leagues from Dydenof. After two days Sailing we came to Pereslaf, which is a small City, rebuilt, as I have been told out of the Ruins of Resanski, which formerly was a famous Town, surprized by the Tartars, demolished, and the Inhabitants, removed to Pereslaf.

On the 17 we came close to Resanski where we viewed the Ruins of the City, which testified the former Greatness and Strength of the Town. From hence we sailed to the Eastern side of the River, where we saw many famous Houses and stately Buildings, with Fair Orchards and Groves.

On the 18 we saw many goodly Towns and Religious Houses, and at night arrived at Novosolki, a Place solely belonging to the Arch-Bishop. Here we bought provision, and all kinds of Refresh­ments [Page 160] that the place affoarded, finding all things very cheap and good: and from hence we sailed away passing by Schilko, Tericho, Tinersho Slavada, Koponaw and other fair Towns.

On the 22 we came to Kassienie-gorod, a beautifull litle City, and the Residence of Prince Reskitski. Our Captain and Master intended to visit the said Prince, and for that end came here to Anchor, but coming a shoar understood that he was departed for Moscou, with the old Princess his Mother. However they went to view the Palace, and were magnificently entertained by the steward, of whom after the Exchange of some Rarities on both sides, by way of Presents, they took their leaves. Kassieme-gorod has been formerly a Hold of the Tartars, but the present Prince at the age of 12 years surrendred it up to the great Duke of Moscovy, whom he as then obtained to be his Protector.

On the 23 we sailed past many fair Villages, Churches, Mona­steries and other Houses built for Religious uses, coming the next morning to anchor before Leshi, which is a very great Town, but not walled.

On the 24 we came before Moruma, a Town inhabited partly by Russes and partly by Mordwin-Tartars whose Countrey begins here, al­though both the City Moruma and the Circumjacient Land-ship is at present under subjection of his Majesty of Russia.

On the 27 we sailed by Prewas Palo and some other lesser Towns. Near this Place are two Rivers which vent themselves into the Wolga, the one called Morsna Reka on the starboard-, and the other Klesna on the larboard-side in sailing downward, which last comes from the City VVolodomur. The Bank on the one side is very high Land, and steep, yet above level and fair Land; but to the Northward the Bank is level with the Water, and the Land woody and desert, nether inhabited nor tilled to any purpose.

On the 28 we sailed past Isbuilets, and Troitska, dropping anchor before Slowoda.

A great Storm.On the 24 we set Sail and came that day before Dudwina, where we were forced to remain 4 days and 4 nights, by reason of the tem­pestuous weather.

The boistrous Winds and Rain somewhat abated we set sail, and on the 3 of Iune came before Nofunki, and the 8 before the great [Page 161] City Nisen Novogorod, situate on an angle of the great River Wolga, IUNE. 1669. which is there conjoined with the Oka.

Nisen-gorod lies in the Latitude of 36 degr. and 28 min. under a wholsome climat, and in a fertile Countrey. Nisen-gorod. It is well fortified with Walls, Bulwarks, Towers, Men and Ammunition of War. About 2 [ English] miles without the City live more Inhabitants than within, being Russes and Tartars, but in subjection to the great Duke. The Germans had formerly built two Churches here, one for the Lutherans and another for the Calvinists, both which went to decay upon their leaving the Town. It is here very cheap living, and all things necessary for the sustenance of Human Bodies may be procured at easy Rates. The Pastures abound with Cattel the Villages with Poultry, the Woods with Venison, the Rivers with Fish, and the Land with Corn, Fruit, Roots and Plants. Butter we bought there for 10 gl. the 100 lb. [which is after the rate of 2 ^d per pound] and yet we esteemed that the dearest Purchase we bought there. We bought there a good sort of Linnen for 2 stivers the Ell, which served us well for shirting and other uses aboard the Ship. And by reason of the Cheapness of Provision and all necessaries, we received here 6 Moneths pay: and because that they had here an excellent Ropeyard, the Heads of our Company thought good to leave the Lieutenant Schack with our chief Boatswain, to look after some Ropes which we had given order to be made, as also to fit us with new Anchors.

On the 21 dito we put off from Nisen and left the Wolga. Descrip­tion of the River Wolga. This is reputed one of the greatest and longest Rivers in the whole World, taking it's beginning in the highest Mountains of Nova-Zembla, run­ning past Ierislaf, or Ierislaw, Tweer and other eminent Cities, whence with many Windings and Turnings it runs through the Land till it come at Astrachan, where it divides it self into several Heads like the Nile, and so looses it self into the Caspian Sea, receiving by the way many great and navigable Rivers, and those mostly on the North­east side: from whence by reason that the River receives it's Water, it is subject to rising and falling, as at Iune it is at highest, and in Iuly begins again suddenly to decrease, insomuch that it is in all places full of Banks and Sand-beds, as hereafter, in the pursuit of my Journal shall more particular and ample mention be made; whereas when it is increased to it's heighth, one may sail over several [Page 162] Islands. This said River is in some places more than 3 [ English] miles broad, and proving in other places very narrow makeing at each side of the River a Whirl-pool, which cannot be avoided without great difficulty. The course of this River from Nisen to Casan is mostly East and South-East; but from Casan to Astrachan and so to the Mare Hyrcanum, or Caspian Sea altogether South. On each side the River you have for the most part very good Land and many fair Towns, as I have already noted, whose Inhabitants are sedulous in their Husbandry, and are well supplyed with the particular Products of all the several Landships adjacent on this noble River, as also with many sorts of excellent Fish. In times past the Wolga was much in­commodated by the Cosaks of Don, who being very strong in small shipping, would sometimes, surprize, assail and take the Russian Fishermen and Strougs.

On the 22 we passed by the Islands Tlerinski and Subsinski, but to­wards the Evening were fain to drop anchor, by reason of the many Sands and Banks.

On the 23 we weighed but found our Anchor fast among the Roots of the Trees, which cost us some pains to get clear. About mid-day we got the Island Dioploy, about 3 in the afternoon Musa, and about the Evening Kremonsky, where we anchored.

On the 24 we proceeded forward and got Parmino, where we took in Provision, which we found very good and of a low Price. From hence we loosed, and sailed by many pleasant Islands, Towns, and an Excellent prospect from Land, which was stored with Cattel, fruitful Dales, Woods, Meadows, Currents and whatsoever natural Delights that may content the heart of Man.

On the 29 dito we came to VVasili-gorod a litle Town on the West side of the Wolga, and because it was here a level Countrey we tooke the heighth of the Arctic Pole, which we found 55 degr. and 50 min. above the Horizon. This said Town was then without Gates or Walls, and is built mostly of wood, save only Public Edifices, and Religious Houses, which are there but few, since it has not been long in possession and subject to the Czar, or great Duke of Moscovy. On the South-side of VVasiligorod, is a litle River called the Soura, which here gushes out with a violent rushing and buzzing into the VVolga.

[Page 163]Above VVasiligorod begins the Land of the Ceremish Tartars which extends it self out as far as Casan. Those again are divided into two sorts of People; The one sort is called Nagorni, which are those that inhabit the hilly Countrey, and the other Lugowy who dwell mostly in the Valleys. The former follow altogether Pasturage, the latter Agri­culture, for which they have a happy Land, blessed with a fertile Soil. The Inhabitants are a rude and barbarous People, utter strangers to good Manners and Learning. They speak for the most part the Russian Language, but some places there are where they speak Tartarian, and in other places they have a peculiar Tongue of their own. They are the most stupid Heathens that I have yet seen in all my 3 Voyages, have neither Sence nor light of a Divine Power. Houses of Worship, and Priests, Resurrection, Heaven and Hell are things they never heard of, nor nor will ever learn to know what they are. However I may not be so general but that I may except some, who have some light and knowledge of an immortal God, and such an one as has the direction of all, but only rules them as a King upon Earth does his Subjects. They are further of Opinion that there are Devils or evil Spirits, whose power is limited and circumscribed, and that they cannot do any mischief save only in this Life, for these doubt much about the Resurrection, and for this end they do Sacrifices to them as do the Madagascars that they should do them no harm. They tell you of a strange Water by the means whereof the Prince of the Devils comes in horrible and most ugly shapes, for which they dread, as Children do Bugbears they never saw. To that Immortal Deity and divine Essence they offer up all manner of Beasts as Oxen, Horses, and Sheep, which when they do, they take the Hide and stretch it out upon a Rack made on purpose, making thereby a Fire, over which they hang the Flesh to boil, When it has seethed long enough, they take out a Bowl of the Pottage in the one hand, and a Bowl of Me­theglin in the other, and throw them both upon the Hide, upon which it falls into the Fire, saying, Accept, O God, this Offering at my Hands, and be pleased to hear my Praiers; which Praiers do commonly import their own Health, or the increase of their Cattel. So that their main Opinion about that God, is only that he is a good-natur'd and bene­volent-Lord, and the Devil malevolent, which is all that may be gathered from them. Others I have seen who worship the Sun, [Page 164] Fire, and Water. Ceremonies about the Dead I could never perceive any, save only that when any eminent Man among them comes to dy they make a Feast of Horse-flesh, at which all the nearest Relations are present, and the Corps given to a ravenous Beast called Brigga­chol, which I have not elsewhere seen: That done they hang up his Vestments upon a Tree in memory of him, as we do Escutcheons, and this was all I could learn of my self, or from the Observations of others that had been longer and further within Land. Their Habit is as course as their Breeding, mostly of Skins or a kind of Canvas. Their Upper-coat comes down only to the Thighs, and their Breeches and Stockings all one. Those that are married shave their Heads, but whilst single they let their hair grow, but all in one Tuft, which they commonly ty up in a ball above their head, or plate it, as our Jockies do their Horse-tails. The Women wear also course Garments having their faces muffled up to the eies: but more quaint is the Habit of a Young-woman ready to marry, who besides other od accoutre­ments wears a piece of Wood, shaped like a horn directly upon her Fore-head, about an Ell in length, and at the small end a litle Bell. Circumcision they have not yet learn'd from the Turks or Iews, nor yet Baptism from the Christians; but have some few Ceremonies about the naming of their Children, which is done when they are about half a year old. Polygamy is in use among them, and that without any order or regard to nearness in Blood, for it has been well known that the Father takes the Daughter and so procreates Issue, and the Son the Mother, after the manner of the Cingaleezes in Ceylon, where the Father about marrying his daughter out, be­reaves her of her Virginity, saying, Should I plant a Tree and not enjoy the First-fruits my self?

CHAP. X. The Ship set fast upon a Foord. The great Ʋtility of the Linden-tree. Some of the Company drowned. Fertility and excellent Soil of the Banks of the Wolga. Arrival at Casan. Casan taken in by the Russes. The Casan-Tartars fight the Russes. The Russian Army flee. Moscou taken in. The Czar becomes Tributary to the Tartars. The good Conduct and valour of the Governour of Resan, who restores the Czar and the Empire to it's former Freedom.

ON the 30 dito we set out again, IUNE. 1669. and suddenly were run aground upon a Shallow place, where we were very hardly put to it to get off, and besides our great Labour we lost an Anchor and a Dragg. We were no sooner got clear but we ran immediately upon another Bank, and so from one to another that we were almost out of hopes of ever coming through, for we saw danger on every side, and our Pilot very unskilfull of the River, which detarded our Voyage very much.

The next day we gain'd the Deeps, and came before Cusmade­mianski where we cast anchor and provided our selves with Victualling and Refreshment. This City is founded upon a rising ground ha­ving on the one side high and steep Mountains, and on the other side a level Countrey. The Land round about as well the montanous as the flat affoard many Woods and Groves of The same, as I take it, which Pliny and other Na­turalists call Ti­lia or [...], the inner Rind whereof they made Parch­ment [...]r Paper of, as of the Shrub Papyrus. Of this more amply see Pliny lib. 16. cap. 14. Linden, on Teile-tree. The Bark of this tree is good for many uses, and therefore pilled and sold by the Inhabitants, the Body they hollow, and make Tubs, Troughs, Pales and other Vessels thereof: which is the only Traffic and Work I know of in use amongst them.

On the first of Iuly we sailed by two Islands, to wit, Turig and Mastof, and ran the ship aground, where we lost another Anchor, Towards the Evening we came before Makrity.

On the 2 ^d we set Sail, and came before Sabaksar, where some of our Ships-company went ashoar, and took our Pasport and Creden­tials to show the VVaywode, or Governour, who gave us a supply of Men and necessaries to help us forward to Astrachan. Sabaksar is one [Page 166] of the neatest Towns I had hitherto seen since we left Moscou, JULY. 1669. being well built, fortified and since the uproar of the Casaks, the Garrison better supplied with men than before. Having dispatched here we weighed anchor, and on the 3 of ditto, gain'd the Island Cosin where we were fast again, but without much difficulty got clear. We sailed that day past Sundir, a handsome litle Town, and dropp'd anchor before Cokschaga: loosing thence we were fain to cast out our Fore-anchor to hale over a Foord, which was 10 Dutch leagues long, and found work enough to bring the Vessel over, however after much pains taken we gaind the Deep, without any damage to the Ship.

On the 4 we came past the Shallow places, and before VVolofka were fast again, where we were fain to cast anchor and wind our selves off. At night we lay before Swiatkhi, which is a fortify'd Town, having many fair Churches and Monasteries within walls.

On the 5 we weighed anchor and set Sail, having a brisk Gale, which in 3 hours time, or less brought us before the River Casanka, from which River the City and Kingdom of Casan have their name, here we came to anchor where some small Shipping belonging to that place, aiming to enter the River, ran against our Bow and some fell overboard.

Here about is a very fair Countrey and as fertile as any that ever I have seen in all my Life. It is mostly low arable and medow ground overflown once a year upon the swelling of the River VVolga. On the Banks of this said River are variety of Fruit trees of many kinds, which grow in whole Groves together and wild, for a hundred Dutch Leagues, as Hasle-nuts, Cherries 3 or 4 several sorts, Black; White and Red Currans, &c. That part of Casan which lies most within Land formerly belonged to the Tartars, but the Inhabitants speake the Russian Language, which was first brought in when the Countrey was conquered by the Russes, as shall be hereafter said. They do not convert any man to slavery, nor make that their Traffic, as do the Nagay the Crim-Calmuc-and Dagestan-Tartars, for if they had they might have sold me when with other two of our Ships-company I was under their Hands, and that above 3 leagues within Land, where on the contrary we found them civil after their Manner, for they gave us Bread and Milk to eat.

[Page 167]On the 6 ^th our Shallop was sent up to Casan, to acquaint the Deputy with our Arrival.

On the 8 ^th the Deputy of Casan, together with the Metropolitan came aboard, where they seemed to receive great satisfaction, ha­ving never seen the like before. The Common people came likewise flocking in great multitudes to see a floating Castle, and notwith­standing all the aw of the Deputy and Provincial, we had much ado to keep them off, for they strove to come aboard.

Casan is a great City, and reasonably strong, Descri­ption of Casan. but it's Walls and Towers of Wood, as almost all the Russian Towns are. The Cittadel is walled with stone, and well provided of Ammunition and Men. The Town is situated upon a Hill, but in a Champan Countrey. The Cittadel is encompassed with the Casanka, which renders the Water within inexhaustible in time of Siege. The Traffic of this Place is very considerable, regarding the Countrey it lies in. It is frequented by the Crim-Tartars, who bring thither all manner of Mer­chandise their Land affoards, and not only the vendible Products of the Earth and Cattle, but as orderly their own Children, which they sell at a low rate, a Boy or a Girl of 16 years of age, for the value of 20 Crowns a piece. The City Casan is equally inhabited by Russians and Tartars and governed by a Deputy, as we have already said, but the Cittadel kept solely by Russes, where no Tartar is to come upon pain of Death. There is besides the Deputy (who is only as President and supreme in Civil Matters) an extraordinary VVay­wode, who is always as Superintendant in time of War, having the sole Direction of Martial Affairs.

The Countrey of Casan, which has been formerly a Kingdom, is of a very wide extent; bounded on the North with Syberia, on the East with Nagaya, and on the South with the River VVolga. This Countrey was formerly very populous and able to bring a great Army to field, as in recorded of their famous Expeditions against the Russes; but since depopulated, made wast and subdued, by Basilius Ivanowitz, who overcame these Casan-Tartars in a very bloody Battail, and after that so notable a Conquest set a Vice-Roy. This Vice-Roy, although a Casan-Tartar, was always more loyal to the Czar, than favourable to his own Countreymen; which occasioned great murmurings and jealousy, among the Casaneers, that at last they called in the Crim-Tartars [Page 168] for their assistance, who were Mahometans. These made not much delay, but on a sudden raised a mighty Army, which incorpo­rating with the Rebells gave the Vice-Roy battail, and gain'd the Field, and pursuing the success of the day invaded the Emperours Territories. The Czaar in the mean while being informed by Express that the Hostility kept the Field, had put the Forces under Conduct of the Vice-Roy to flight, and that they approached with a great Body, he levied as great an Army as he could do with so short war­ning, and ingaged with the Tartars in open Field. But the Hostility increasing more and more, what with their own Nation, and what with the Malecontents within the Russian Jurisdiction, were almost 15 to 3, and after a short but very hot Battel the Empe­rour was fain to flee and betake himself to Novogorod. The Tartars seeing themselves Masters of the Field, marched forward to Moscou which they attacqued, took in and plundered. However the Cittadel Cremelena held stoutly forth all the time, without making Proposals or Articles upon which they would seem willing to sur­render it, till at last finding themselves not in a capacity to hold forth they gave it over, upon very honourable Conditions as to themselves, but disadvantageous Terms for the great Duke himself, and the City of Moscou. Shamefull was this Loss to the Emperour, and no less ground of Honour for the Victory to the Hostility, who now as it were in a moment had regained all their Freedoms which from time to time before they had lost. Right loath was the Czar to give his assent to the Conclusions of the Treaty, but was at last com­pelled to sign it with his own hand, partly for that his Bojars and Council pressed him to it, and partly upon his own considerations, how that his Countrey in all probability would in case he continued refractory be overrun, and he himself with all his Race be secluded from the Monarchy. The Tartarians had 2 Generals, Brethren and equall in command, whereof the elder called Mendligeritz, erected a Statue in Moscou, to which he obliged and injoyned the Moscovians to pay certain Homages. The younger called Sapgeri marched on for Casan where he had his Residence, thinking, that because it had formerly been a Soveraignty, and that the Footssteps and Reliques of a wasted Kingdom were still apparent, he might the better erect and rear a new Monarchy upon the Foundations of an old. Mendligeritz [Page 169] the elder marched with his Army towards Rhesan, well knowing that the great Power of that Province might check him, upon oppor­tunity. So soon as he was set down before the Town, he signified the occasion of his coming, sent the Governour a Copy of the Articles signed by the Czar, demands the Town, and willed him to surren­der. But the Governour (who was a Gentleman both of known Fame and Worth, in regard of his rare Conduct in several Battails at the Head of an Army) let him know, That all the Infidels and Barbarians in the world should not deterr him so far as to transgress his Duty, and Oath, since he himself had no such Intelligence from his Lord, the Great Duke, and till he had Assurance of what the Tartarian General had advised him about concerning such Articles, he would defend the Town and Cittadel. The General upon this Answer sent him the Original of the prementioned Articles, and so willed him to avoid Blood-shed: but the Governour detained the Messen­gers and kept the Schaedule, resolving to stand out the Siege. Upon this the Tartars raised the Siege, and attempted to storm the City; but those within couragiously defended themselves, and plai'd of their Canon; together with an incessant shooting of Arrows, at the Enemy, that they were forced to retreat and remove the Siege to another side of the Town, where some disloyal Russians had acquainted them that the place was weakest and consequently the most easy to be storm'd: however finding no hopes of gaining the Town, the Tartarian Gene­ral sent a Herauld to urge the Governour to resign the Papers, de­claring himself thereupon willing to draw off his Forces, which the Governour refusing the General left the Town. Several Narratives were sent off to Moscou, which occasioned a general Joy, and incou­raged the Townsmen to revolt, and unanimously fall upon the Garrison, who being incapable to make resistance were fain to submit and beg Quarter. The Statue of Mendligeritz was also pulled down and broke to pieces in detestation of his Tyranny. The Czaar immediately upon these news gathered all the Forces he could, which when drawn to field amounted to 25000 Men, and marched forward to Casan, where he gave the Tartarians Battail; and after a hot fight gain'd the Camp, the Enemy retiring into the Western Provinces of Tartary, shortly after the Czar died, without the performance of any honorable atchievment, save that during the time of his Reign. But [Page 170] Ivan Basilowitz, MAR. 1669. son to the deceased Emperour, seeing the good footsteps of his Father, and perceiving a sure foundation, Levies a new Army and recruits the Old with well experienc'd Germans; but having no trusty Person to whom he durst commit the new Army as Commander in chief, he joyns the Forces, himself leading marches so in the Head to Casan, which City when he had besieged 8 weeks and lost many men, fearing likewise that Mendligeritz might come to assist them he gave them Offers of Peace, which nevertheless the Tartars would not accept, expecting succour from the Field-Army. Ivan Basilowitz thought it high time either to take up the Siege or to storm it on a sudden; which last he resolved upon and accordingly, set 70 German Pioneers at work, who did the work so effectually and without discovery of the Enemy within, that they had under-mined the Northeast Gate in the space of 24 Hours or less, and thereupon blew it up which done the Moscovians surprized them within and made themselves Masters both of the Town and Cittadel. The Townsmen obtained Quarter althoug the Great Duke had threatned the Contrary, for that they had twice rebelled against the Imperial Crown and of their own accord sent succour to the Enemy, when it was not in the lest urged from them. The Czar being now Master of Casan fortified it with a strong Wall, Towers and Bulwarks. But now to our present Journal.

After the Deputy of Casan had throughly visited our Ship, and well entertained by our Officers aboard, he departed with the Metro­politan ashoar, and entreated us all to come up to Casan, which we did, and received a reciprocal kindness from him there. When we returned aboard the Mobile followed us with Music and Dancing a good part of the way.

On the 10 ^th we received a good Quantity of Lead aboard, which we were to unload at Astrachan.

On the 13 ^th I got permission of the Officers to go up to Casan to buy some Biscake for my own use, which I had for a mean price, and having much more than I could use, I sold it and got a considerable profit, as well of the Officers as the Foremast men, for we were to take care for our own Victualling.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Casan. The strange manner of taking Fish. Cities demolished by Tamerlan. The Ship run fast aground. The Salt-Pans, and manner of making Salt. Difficult Sailing in the Wolga. A New City built for defence against Robbers and Pyrates. The great abundance of Liquirice about Astrachan, The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars.

ON the 17 ditto leaving Casan, we set Sail and that morning were aground 2 several times, Depar­ture from Casan. but without much difficulty got clear again.

On the 18 we came close to an Island called Staritzo, where we anchored, our Pilot went ashoar to view the said Island and coming about 3 furlongs within land found stones, of the shape and bigness of Lemmons which being broken had within the similitude of a star, but those not all alike in Colour, for some were like Gold, others like Silver, and others of a Yellow and Tawny colour. This Island is situated in 45 degr. 31 min. being of it self about 3 Dutch Leagues in length and 2 broad.

On the 19 we got the Island Potenski where we came to anchor expe­cting that a great storm would come on.

Upon the 22 we sailed past the Buytma which is a branch of the fa­mous River Lanca being about 12 Dutch Leagues from Casan. This same River has it's Rise or Fountain about Chambretoky which lies to the North-east of Casan.

Here we met with a company of Fishermen of whom we bought some Bream, which they take in great Abundance, and after an od way, which if time had permitted us we would have learned.

On the 23 we came to a very pleasant Coast where we went to ashoar, and found there the Ruins of a great City which had been made wast by Tamarlan. While we lay here it began to blow very hard, and the next day we were fain to keep at anchor. In the mean time I went with some of our Ships Company to the Hill Arbuchin, where we found the Ruins of another City, bearing one name with the said Hill. In ascending the Hill we found a great stone with this Inscription in old Russian Words and Letters, IF THOU WILT REMOVE, THOU SHALT NOT [Page 172] LOSE THY PAINS. Some Russians had a mind to see what would come of it, JULY. 1669. and after long digging and much struggling at last got it turn'd over, but, instead of finding a Treasure, met with another Motto, which was, THOU ASS GO SHAKE THY EARS. This vexed them so that they rather willed to let it stand in that po­sture, than take the pains to set it as it was before, to deceive others.

The Land round about is very fair and withall of a fat Soil, yet not cultivated, for there are no Inhabitants, but the Relicts of several Towns and Villages, formerly depopulated by the famous Tamerlan.

On the 17 we sailed past the River and City of Adrobe, lying in the heighth of 54 degr. and 48 min. At the mouth of this River we were again set fast, and after much labour, and all the means we could imagine to be any way helpfull, we gave the Ship and Yacht both over for lost, but in the Evening it began to Thunder, and abundance of Rain fell, that the River began to swell, and so set us adrift again.

On the 29 we came before Calmaka, where were many Salt-pits and two new Towns. We found there several Pans where the Russes made their Salt, which they fetch out of great hollows and cavernal Rocks; this being boiled is sent up the Wolga in Stroughs, and so dispersed over the whole Countrey of Moscovia. These Salt-pits keep abundance of Men in imployment, and is no small profit to the Overseers.

On the 30 ^th we set sail again, and after half an hours sailing ran aground upon a sand, where after much ado we gott off, but with the Loss of an Anchor and 80 fathom of our Cable.

The next day it began to storm very hard, wherefore we thought good to come to anchor, for the River was here about very perillous, and so we were fain to continue till the 4 of August.

On the 5 ^th of August we came to Morrakzy where we saw abun­dance of Fishers, of whom we bought some Cavear, and Sturgeon, having as much of that Fish as 20 Men could eat for the value of 11 stivers [or one shilling sterl. A great Storm.] Here we were forced to tarry for the space of 24 Hours by reason of the hard Wind, lying near the Island Kistowato, where is a very shoaring or slanting strand on both sides, which makes the stream of the Wolga at that place very narrow and deep. Here we saw the River Ussa which encompassing Samara [Page 173] almost round, empties it self into the Wolga. On each side this River is a fair and pleasant Countrey so far as one can view: AUG. 1669. but we were informed by the Russes that it was there very dangerous to travail by reason of Robbers, and the vagabond Cosaks, who kept themselves in the Woods, whence they sometimes salley out in whole bands, and surprize Passengers. The Cosaks also haunt the River, having Boats which are made long and small, with which they row admirably swift. On one side of the Ussa are some Mountains and amongst those one of an incredible heighth called Sariol Kurgan, where they say an Emperor of the Tartars with 70 Kings ly buried, when they came up the Wolga with intent to invade Russia; which Mountain being bare and rocky, they say that the Soldiers carried up so much Earth and Mold as was sufficient. Some of those Mountains are woody and other some bare stone and cliffs.

On the 8 ^th we sailed forward and came to Samara, which is so called from a certain River that runs through it; where it runs into the VVolga. The City is built four Square, and mostly of Wood; only the Churches and Cloysters are built of stone.

The day following we saw the Mountain Cosak-krim, so called from the Cosaks which were there beat by the Moscovian Army; having sadly molested all the Countrey, under the subjection of the Czaar, by a continual Plundering: but having at that time received such an overthrow could never since complete so great a Body, as might be any way obnoxious to the Russians. Behind Samara the Mountains are very high, but Cosak-krim surpasses all the rest for heighth. About the going down of the Sun we sailed past the Island Pantzina and the next morning found our selves, as far as Sagenisko.

On the 11 we sailed past the Island Zagra, where we met divers. Fishers-boats and supplied our selves with fresh Fish. Here we had news that a great number of Cosac-Rebells were entred the Island Satyry-Boggere, at the mouth of the VVolga, on the Caspian Sea, and annoyed the River.

On the 12 we sailed by several Islands, namely Sasnow, Ossino, Schip­namago Koltof, and other not inhabited.

The next day we saw the Mountain Smiowa, which in their Lan­guage is as much as to say, a Snake, or Dragon, having it's name as I conjecture from its similitude of a Snake, rising up into hillocks [Page 174] and falling down again into gaps like a serpent when he creeps. Al­though the Russes as also the Inhabitants tell us a Fable of a famous Cavalier who went out to kill a monstrous Animal like a Snake, that wasted all the Countrey round about, and devoured every day 50 Men for a Break-fast. The Knight having killed the serpent it was meta­morphosed into a Rock which is now this Mountain.

The day following we came before Saratof, where we cast anchor, This City lies in 52 degr. 12 min. in a valley upon a Branch of the VVolga, on the larboard side in sailing down, and is only inhabited by a Military Officer and a Garrison of Soldiers to free the River and Countrey of the Cosacks and Calmuc-Tartars, whose Countrey is bounded here. These Calmucks are the most ougly and mishapen People in the World, worse favoured by far than the Hotentots or Moors, which are Angels in Comparison of those. Their Faces are broad and almost four square, their noses flat, their mouths reaching almost from one ear, to the other, their Eies long and small, upon their Heads they wear a Quoif; the rest of their Habit is sufficiently denoted in the following Plate. They seldom go afoot but mostly on Horseback, as if they were Centaurs, for some of them do not only eat and drink but also sleep upon their Horses. Their only weapons is the Long-bow which they use with an admirable Dexterity. There is a continual enmity between those and the Nagayans, for they perpe­tually steal one anothers Children and Cattel, which they bring to Astrachan to Market, for there they have 3 several market days, one for the Russians themselves, another for the Nagayans, and another for the Calmuc-Tartars, which 2 last-named may not come together, altho they be both Mahometans, and under the Jurisdiction of the great Duke. The Calmuks dwell not in Towns as other People do; but travail all over the Countrey, pitching their Tents where they find a fertile fat Soil, which when their Horses, Camels, Cows and small Cattel have eaten bare, they break up and march forward to find out some other place, as Historie records of the Scythians, who without dispute were the same People. Their chief and choice Diet is Horse-flesh, which they eat raw after they have rode a litle upon it, thrusting it between the Sadle and the Horse.

Upon the 15 of August we sailed past 2 Islands, to wit, Criusna and Saponoufka, as also by the Hill Solottogory, which is as much as to say [Page 175] Gold-hill, so called from a rich booty of Gold the Tartarians had once taken in a Caravan, which they divided among themselves by cap-fulls.

On the 16 ditto we came before the River Ruslan on the left hand, right over against a round Hill called Vrak-ofskarul, from one Vrak, a Tartarian Prince who lies there buried. This Beck comes from the famous River VVhich is also called Tanais and divi­des Euro­pe from Asia, its course is from North to South, See Stra­bo lib. 2. Don, upon which River those that are called the Don-Cosaks have their being, which also is the Countrey and Resi­dence of Stenko Radzin. In the year 1668 the Russes had build a new City at the Mouth of the River Ruslan, to give a check to the Don-Cosacks, who much annoyed the VVolga with their small Boats, com­ming down the said River dayly in great Troops, and committed many insolencies: However it seems not much available; for they have devised a new mean to shun the Fort and come into the VVolga by drawing their Boats over land upon Wheels, which they do for 7 Dutch Leagues together, for the Countrey there is flat and even.

The next day it began to blow very hard for which reason we were fain to remain that day at anchor, and on the 18 ^th to set sail having a gentle Gale which brought us before the City Czaritza, which is as much to say Caesarea, or rather Empress, lying on the Right hand at the foot of a Hill. The City is in it self not great, but very strong mu­nited with 6 Ramparts, or Bulwarks, besides other Fortifications. The Garrison is well maintained with Recruits of Strelitzers, being a Place of great Trust and Importance, especially for that it lies upon the Tartarian Continent.

On the 19 we came before the Place where Czares-gorod of old had stood, by the Ruins thereof we could observe that City had been built of Brick. It was demolished besides many others by Tamerlan the Great. The stones have been of good use to those of Astrachan, where­with they built their Walls. Towers, Churches and Monasteries.

On the 20 we haled over several Riffs and shallow Foords, and at last ran our selves aground upon a sand, where we stuck 3 hours before we could yet clear. From this place where we were fast all along the Banks to Astrachan, grows great plenty of Liquirice, but all the Land to the Caspian Sea wast, and not fitt for Tillage.

On the 21 we got the Island VVesaway, which we left on the Starboard-side, and that Evening came before Tzornogar, or Tzornojar, [Page 176] being in regard of any requisite occasion in such a place considera­bly strong: AUG. 1669. it is environed with Palizados, and about an [ English] mile without the Town. On each side are several Watch-houses, with Towers from whence they can see the Enemy at a distance, the Countrey being level and not Woody. The first occasion of the building of this City was said to be from a party of 400 Cosacks which had spoiled a Russian Caravan, intercepting it between the Land and the Boats, where the Strelitzers were, that were ap­pointed to Convoy it, and by reason that the stream was so strong that the Boats could not row against it, the said Robbers made their escape with a very rich Booty. At that same time there was at Tzornogar a Persian Ambassadour arrived with all his Moveables and a great Retinue, intending for Moscou. The said Ambassadour came aboard our Ship and received Presents from our Officers, which although he willingly accepted, yet remunerated them with things of greater value and worth.

On the 22 we set sail and saw the Mountain Polowna where the Russian Fablers say the Moon goes every night to bed, because that over that Hill is always a great mist. About 2 in the afternoon we got the Island Kitzier in sight and speeded our course so that we gain'd the sight of Astrachan before the Sun set.

The 24 before noon by the grace of the Everlasting GOD we arrived at the long-wish'd-for Astrachan, where we for Joy fired all our Guns to the Astonishment of the Inhabitants, who had never seen a Ship of that Burthen and Force before. From the day of our Arrival here, we lay off in the stream till the first of September and then came up close to the Kay with our Ship and Yacht, thanking the Al­mighty for his special Bounty, in delivering us through so many perils, and bringing us at last to our desired Port.

CHAP. XII. Situation of Astrachan. The Inhabitants. How Astrachan became subject to the Czaar. Strange manner of Tents, or Cottages. Provision very cheap and Brandy dear. A Desart affoarding good Salt, and a strange kind of Fruit. The Form and Nature of the Nagayan Tartars. Their Habit, manner of Life and House-keeping. Their Trades and way of earning money, Horseflesh, Mares-milk and Blood in great esteem by them.

A Strachan lies upon the Dividing of Europe from Asia, AUG. 1669. upon the Island Delgoy, in the Countrey of the Nagayan Tartars, Situation of Astra­chan. where the Northern Pole is elevated 46 degr. and 22 min. above the Horizon, and is about 50 Dutch Leagues from the Caspian or Hyrcan Sea. It is environed with a thick stone wall, and that time I was there furnished with 500 great Brass Cannon, besides a very strong Garrison, with Ammunition proportionable to defend it against the Tartars and Cosaks, who have often had a design to retake it. It gives a very noble pro­spect from abroad, with it's many Towers and Lofty Piles of Buildings, as well what appertain to the Fortifications as to the Churches and Religious Houses. It is a famous Town for Traffic, frequented not only by all the Regions of Tartary adjoyning to the Caspian Sea, but also by Persians, Armenians and Indians, who bring their Goods and Merchandises in a certain sort of Shipping which they call Boeses, being about 80 Tun burthen a piece. But these Vessels cannot Sail by traverse, but alwaies before the Wind. Of all the several kinds of Merchandise which those of Astrachan deal in, Silk is the chief, so that this seems to be the sole Magazin of that Comodity, whence it is re-exported up the Wolga, and consequently through the whole Russian Empire.

Astrachan has been formerly the Royal Seat of the Nagayan Tartars but making a League with the Crim-and Casan-Tartars was a means to detrude the King, and bring the People under the Subjection of the Grand Czaar of Moscovia, for according to the Tenure of their Al­liance, each was obliged to assist other, whether upon offensiv or defensiv Occasions: so that Ivan Basilowitz, declaring war against those of Casan, they were assisted by the Nagayans, who were beat in open field, and after both Armies defeated, several Holds belonging to [Page 178] the Casans were taken and demolished. Astrachan at last it self was be­sieged and taken by storm by the said Great Duke, the Tartarians dri­ven out, and peopled with Russians and a strong Garrison of that Nation. Astrachan, when in possession of the Tartars, was but a small town in comparison of what it now is, for the Father of the then Emperour when I was there had enlarged it by a 3 ^d part, and called the Addition Strelitza gorod, that is the Soldier-Town, for it is mostly inhabited by military persons: and since that time it has been con­tinually augmented with new buildings. The Customs and Duties besides the Bartering of Commodities in this Citie is a considerable profit for the Czaar. Air and Soil of Astra­chan. The Air about Astrachan is very indifferent and tollerable as to it's Temperature, neither rendred unwholsom by the scorching heat of the Summer Solstice, nor in any case insufferable for the penetrating Frosts in the Winter, as if this place had the benefit of two Climats. Hence is the Soil also very fertile and the Countrey fructiferous beyond (I had almost said) any other Coun­trey in either of the temperate Zones, if the People and Inhabitants had but two Advantages in cultivating it, which tend mainly to the Improvement and maintenance of Agriculture, that is, an assured constant Peace, and the Mysteries of Husbandry which we have in the Westermost Countreys of Europe. They have many and various kinds of select Fruits, as Water-Lemmons, Oranges, Apples, Pears, Cherrys, Damzons, &c. The Vineyards are in a short time very much improved, for before the year 1613 that Plantation was not known among them, till certain Persian Merchants bestowed a Vine upon a German, but a Proselyt and Monk of the Russian Church, which he planted in a Garden belonging to the Monastery: the same Vine thriving so well, caused divers great Merchants to do the like whose indeavours had in the space of 3 years that success, that they presented the Emperour with 200 Pipes of Wine, and 50 Pipes of Brandy, upon which the said Emperour gave them all the Encou­ragement he could to propagate that laudable beginning.

The Nagayan-Tartars who for the most part inhabit the Champan land about and near Astrachan, are not permitted to dwell in the City; nor may they fortify their villages with Walls or Towers: only by many Intreaties they have obtained a Grant of fencing in their Tents with Stakes and Palizados, to secure themselves from the Assaults [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 179] and Insolencies of Night-Robbers and the Calmuc-Tartars, who sometimes surprize them at anawares, and carry away both Men and Cattel. They have no fast Towns, or Cities, but use Tents, as their Ancestors have ever done. Their Tents are built round, the Diameter of the fund being about 10 foot: these are twisted with Reeds or Barks of Trees, and to defend them from the Rain covered with Felt. The Chimney is turned round with a Weather-cock; in the midle of the Tent they make the Fire, which is commonly of Cows-dung and small Twigs dried together in the Sun about which they sit, and as they are ready for a Nap drop down one after another.

Astrachan being almost on every side surrounded with such a fruit­full Countrey, has good plenty of all sorts of Fruit brought every day to Market; and those very cheap. Melons I have bought 10 or 12 for the value of a penny and other fruits after a conformable Price. Fish and Flesh they have in better plenty than any where else I know in the World. For the value of 3 ^d I bought a huge Sturgeon, a Carp weighing 30 pounds, and 25 Herrings, greater and fatter than ever I have seen in Holland. Pearch, Pike, Bream and Sandaks are there so plentifully taken, that only poore people eat them, of which a family of 8 Persons may have as much as will suffice them, for the va­lue of 3 farthings. The fish Sandach is a great Rarity, and proper only to the Wolga, and such Rivers as run into it: being about the bigness of a Haddock, and something like it in tast, but much more delicate and faster, if taken about November and the 3 following Moneths. Their Beef and Mutton is exceeding good, sold usually for a Farthing the pound. All kinds of Water-Fowl are very plentiful and cheap, especially a sort of Wild-gees and those we call Mosco­vy-Ducks which the Tartars take with Hawks, and bring them in such plenty to Market, that they may be had for a peny the dozen. The Tartars who live chiefly by Fishing and Fowling use also Hunt­ing, and in several woody Islands about Astrachan take many Wild-swine which are fed with Accorns, that being known for the best mast that is, for Hogs. These they also bring to Astrachan which by reason that that Flesh will take Salt well, they buy and use it aboard the ship­ping, that trade to and again in the Caspian Sea, the more because of it's cheapness for none but the Moscovians and Armenians buy it, the Persians and Tartars themselves being mostly Mahometans, and therefore not [Page 180] permitted to eat it. To be brief, there is not that thing which may delight the Pallat, but may be had for a very mean and inconside­rable price, and at a far easier rate than the coursest Diet which neces­sitated people must be content with in the West of Europe; and if any man of a mean Estate could deny himself that Society of his Relations and Acquaintance in which every one has more or less solace, and re­tire thither, he may live as contentedly there as the greatest Lord, or richest Merchant in the World, who, as it were in taking Honey are frequently stung with the Bee, and in receiving Prosperity and Benefits from the right hand of Fortune, are as often buffeted with her left. However by way of exception I must mind you of one thing, that the Russians are here at a great Loss for Brandy, since the promulga­tion of a Late Edict, the tenure and purport whereof was, That no Brandy should be distilled there for a certain term of Years: but upon what insight it was that moved his Majesty to order such an Interdi­ction I know not; unless to prevent the Strelitzers, or Soldatesque, to forget themselves so far as to let the Tartars, which ly on every side the City, to surprize them with a sudden Invasion: for Brandy is not only under a special Interdiction of being made there, but also the Importation prohibited to a certain Quantity, every year, which makes the Russians the more to covet it, insomuch that sometimes they have drunk all the Kabacks and Brandy-cellars in Astrachan dry before 3 Moneths of 12 be about. At Nisen-Novogorod we bought a measure, holding about a Gallon for about 3 sh. 2 d. Sterl. which here when at cheapest is sold for 50 sh.

Salt how gotten.On the West side of the VVolga is a great dry and wast Heath called the Step, where they find abundance of good Salt, which is con­creted in the Sun, and thrown up on Heaps like Ice. This Salt is digged out of the Hollows and Caves of Rocks, and proves a very rich Commodity, being exported aswell up the VVolga into all parts of Moscovia and Russia, as Persia, Armenia, Tartary and other Coun­treys bordering upon the Hyrcan Sea. Every man is licens'd to fetch it that lists, only allowing. Two pence half-penny for 80 Pound, for duty to the Emperour.

A strange kind of Fruit.In this Heath, or Wilderness, called the Step is a strange kind of Fruit found, named Baronez, or Barnitsch, from the Word Boran, which is a Lamb in the Russian Tongue because of its form and simili­tude, [Page 181] much resembling a sheep having Head, Feet and Tail, and what is more worthy of Note, a skin of white shining Hair and soft as Silk. This Skin is held in great esteem by the Tartars and Russes, and sold for a good price, as I have paid my self sometimes 5 or 6 Roebels and doubled my money when I sold it again. One of those Skins is to be seen at the House of Mr. John Swammerdam, in Amsterdam, a Gentleman famous for collection of the Rarities of Nature from every place of the World: but that of his he had from a Seaman that had been formerly a Slave in China, where coming into a Wood, found of this Fruit, and brought away as many Skins as made him a Coat. The Description he gave of them, did very much agree with what the Inhabitants of Astrachan informed me of them. It grows upon a low Stalk about 2 foot and a half high, some higher, and is supported just at the Navel: the Head always hangs down as if it pastured, or fed, of the Grass, and when the Grass decays it perishes, but this I ever look'd upon as ridiculous, altho the Inha­bitants asseverated to me by many Oaths, that they have often out of curiosity made experience of that, by cutting away the Grass, upon which it instantly fades away. However what I might further add as to what they say of this Fruit, and what I my self beleeve in the won­derfull Operations of a secret Sympathy in nature, I shall rather keep to my self, than aver, or impose upon the Reader, what, I am sensible will be universally exploded for a Fable. Certain it is there is nothing which is more coveted by Wolves, than this, and the In­ward parts of it are more congruous with the Anatomy of that Animal, than Mandrakes are with Men.

The Nagayan and Crim-Tartars are thick and corpulent, broad­fac'd, and litle-eied. The Eies of the Men are wrinkled like old Wives. Their Beard grows very slovenly, here and there a hair, and shave their Heads bare on the Crown; yet these are not altogether so ougly as the Calmucs. Their Habit is altogether as gentile as their Per­sons are comely, their upper vestment either of a very course stuff with every thred as fine as a Tobacco-pipe, or else of Sheepskins with the Wool-side outward, their Caps and Hose of the same colour, where they wear any, for they use as litle Rigging as they can. The Wo­men like the Calmuccers wear a course linnen Coat and round Caps, bulging out like a Helmet. Their Firstborn Children are generally [Page 182] dedicated to some Saint, or other, in token whereof if it be a male, he wears a Ring in his right Ear, but if a Girl in her right Nostril.

In the Summer season they have no fast place, but pasture over all the face of the Countrey as we have said of the Calmucs. When they march they carry their Tents upon high Wagons made on purpose, and so take their Wives and Children with them, and drive their Cattel before them, their Moveables they set upon Camels, Horses and sometimes upon Kine. Thus they go up and down all the Sum­mer; and when the Winter approaches pitch together about Astrachan, appearing like a great Army; where they can assist each other in time of need against the Calmucks their perpetual Enemies, who when the VVolga freezes sometimes assail them: and to the end that they may the better oppose their said Enemies in such case, the VVaywode, or Governour of Astrachan provides them Arms, which at the breaking up of the Camp they are to redeliver, and for security send some of their chief Princes as a Pledge to Astrachan, where they are committed to the Cittadel; and upon their restoring of their Amunition are sur­rendred into their hands again.

The Nagayans follow the Fishing-trade, as also Fowling, Hunting and Pasturing of Cattel, and are reputed the best Herds-men in the world. Their Kine are generally great, their Sheep very fair and fat, having great Tails like the Rams in Palaestine, some weighing 20 or 30 pound a piece, their noses bending upwards, and their Ears hanging like a Spanial. Their Horses are but ugly shaped, but very durable in running. They have also some Camels but not many. Their chief Diet is dried Fish which they use in stead of Bread. They have also a way of making bread of Rice, which they knead in Oil and Honey, and so bake it in Cakes. All kinds of Flesh they eat, ex­cept Swine, holding Horse-flesh for the best. Their Drink is Water and Milk, esteeming Mares-milk above all other. They profess the Mahometan Religion, and are of the Persian sect. The Czaar allows them Laws and Judges of their own. They are also Tribute-free, but in stead of Tribute are to bring several Thousand men to field upon occasion.

CHAP. XIII. Divisions and Limits of the Cosacks. The Offspring of Stenko. The Reason of his Revolting. The first beginning of his Insolency. His treacherous Cruelty: The Governour of Astrachan makes preparation against him. He betakes him­self to flight and reconciles himself with the Czar. The Incredible Riches and costly Attire of the Cosacks. The Person of Stenko Radzin described. The meeting and discourse of the Author with Stenko Radzin. He keeps a Persian Princess for his Concubine, which he throws with his own hand into the Wolga. His Pu­nishment for Adultery.

ON the 3 of September came several Dutch Officers aboard, SEP [...]. 1669. who bad us welcom and invited us respectivly to their Houses, where we went, and were kindly receiv'd and entertained. Just upon our Arri­val here the Russian Fleet was set out against the Cosaks. But before I treat any thing about that Expedition I shall give you a praevious Nar­rative of an Uproar raised and headed by Stenko Radzin, and then the rest in order.

There are two Nations of the Cosacks, the Saporoksky, and the Donsky. Two sorts of Co­sacks. The former of these were sometime subjects to the Polish Crown, and keep themselvs about the Boristhenes and Kiof, upon 50 Islands which are environed with that famous River. They call those Islands in their own proper Tongue Porog, which is as much as to fay Stairs, and therefore are called Sa-porogsky. Their work is to watch the Ir­ruption of the Tartars or other Enemies upon the Polish Territories. They are called Cosacks from the Slavonian word Cosa, which is as much as to say a Spirit, by reason of their admirable celerity of Mo­tion, being always ready at hand upon occasion. The Donski or Don-Cosaks are those who live upon the famous River Tanats, by the Natives called Don, and are properly under the Jurisdiction of the Czar, although more out of their free and voluntary disposition; for they have been indowed with many Priviledges, as to have their own Princes, Judges and Laws, as also a General of their Armie whom they themselves Elect. As also this Immunity that when a Moscovian Slave runs away from his Lord, and betakes himself within their Territories, they are not obliged to deliver him up unless themselvs list. Of this People last mentioned was Stenko Radzin the famous Rebell [Page 184] born, who, as we have said, so stoutly opposed the Emperour Alexius Michailowitz.

The first occasion of this Revolt (as himself confessed) was to revenge his Brothers death, who was killed by an Eminent Personage, whose name was Iurie Alexowitz Dolgeroeky in the year 1665. The Brother of Radzin was at that time in the service of the great Duke in the Polish Warrs, under the command of the before mentioned Bojar, Iurie Alexowitz Dolgeroeky, who commanded in chief: and when the Camp broke up to go into their Garrisons, the young Radzin desired to be discharged with his Men, having done the Emperour very good service in that last Expedition, and that then there was no more occasion for their Aid: but the General refused to let them go, as not having any certain Intelligence that the Hostility were sent to their Winter-quarters. The Cosaks were hereat greatly discontented, being Volunteers, and had deserved yet greater Civilities than their Request, or than ever they had received from the Russians: they therefore marched off silently, led by their Collonel, brother to this said Stenko Radzin, which was so badly resented by the General, that he took the Collonel, and hanged him. This was the sum and ground of his revolting, which prompted him not only to imploy his Wea­pons against the Russians, but aswell against the Persians.

In the year 1667 he began to commit many Insolencies and himself and all his crew betaking themselves to the VVolga, where they took all the small Shipping they met with, and plundered them, killed and threw over board all the Men, unless they would admitt them­selves into their Companie: They entred also all the Towns seated near the River, where they pillaged the Churches and Monasteries. From hence he took his way directly for Iaik, which he took in and set a strong Garrison. From hence he marched toward the Caspian Sea gathering vast multitudes of discontented Persons, who came upon the noise of Rebellion from all parts. From the Caspian Sea he went for the VVolga by the way committing many Insolencies, plundering and sinking all the small Shipping, wasting and depopulating of Cities and Villages, and using the People very inhumanly if they would not resolve to joyn in that Rebellion. From hence he went to the City Terku, and so onwards to the Bounds of Persia, where he also sadly molested the Subjects of that King, as well as those of the [Page 185] Czar. AUG. 1669. The Inhabitants of a small Persian City hearing of his approa­ching deserted the Town and betook themselves to the Hills and Mountains without the Town, where they though themselves secure from his violent and tyrannical Actions. Stenko Radzin percei­ving that, sent out Emmissaries to see where they kept themselves, with Instructions, to tell them that his End was not to do any harm to their Persons or Estates; but only to buy Provision for his Money, and therefore willed them to return into the City. The Persons who were sent did their message, and the credulous Citizens came down entred their Houses, and set open their shops, of whom Radzin and his followers bought several Commodities and Necessaries paying them to the utmost farthing: but had given a token to his Men by setting of his Cap after an unusual Manner, upon which they were all on a sudden to fall upon the Towns-men and massacre them, which after a most barbarous Manner they did, sparing neither Man, Wo­man, nor Child.

The Waywode of Astrachan, whose name was Ivan Simonowitz Proso­rofski, hearing how many places they had despoliated in the Coun­trey of the Medes and upon the Borders of Persia, thought it high time to put himself in a Posture of Defence, and suppress the growing Army of the Malecontents; he in order thereto caused all the Ship­ping as well Merchant-men as others to be put into an equippage, and dispatches Simeum Ivanowits Geboof, who had then the third suffra­ge of Astrachan, to find out the Cosacks-Rebells, and give them battail. This Navy consisted of 36 Stroegs, and about 40000 Men. The Re­bells had already 22 Stroegs with a proportionable number of Men, keeping themselves about the Island Satyry Boggere, which lies about the Entrance of the Wolga into the Caspian Sea, where they had set up a Watch-House upon the Top of a high Hill, from whence they could view the whole Countrey round about, as also the Caspian Sea and the VVolga. This Island lay very commodiously for their Ends being all along the Coast of a high solid Rock, and had only one way to enter it.

So soon as the Cosacks saw the Astrachan Fleet approach, they put off their Shipping, and betook themselves to flight, so that that Ex­pedition was in vain. Seeing now that the Cosaks kept themselves together and would not come to open batttel, their were new [Page 186] Measures deliberated upon either by fair or foul means to suppress the Rebells. IUNE. 1669. It was not long before the VVaywod Prosorofski received Letters from the Czaar, with a Pardon for Stenko Radzin on condi­tion he would submit to the Emperour, and for the future demean himself as a loyal subject. The subtle Cosack not expecting so gracious a tender, accepted of the Emperours Grace, being already by Hun­ger and other extremities brought to such a state, that he would of his own accord have requested it, for they were then put to a short allowance, and had taken a Persian Boes having some Horses aboard that were sent to the Czaar, from the King of Persia for a present; these they took, killed and used very sparingly, whence it may be gathered in what a mean condition they were. Having thus obtained an assurance of Pardon from the Emperour, they marched forward for Astrachan, where they were very kindly received, and congra­tulated by those of the Townsmen, every one of them appearing in the most splendid manner he could, for they had rifled many Gentle­mens Houses where they found always Apparrel, Jewels and other Plunder for habit and Ornament. Stenko Radzi the Ringleader of that Rout, could not be distinguished from the rest, but by the Honour which was done him, being saluted by the name of Batske, Father; and certainly he was a father of many impious Sons. I have seen him several times upon the Stroegs and in the City; he is a brave man as to his person, and well proportioned in his limbs, tall and streight of Body, pock-pitted, but only so as did rather become than disfigure him, of a good conduct, but withall severe and cruel, as has been already instanced. The Cosacks who were his Followers came dayly into Astrachan where they sold their Booty which was very rich and costly. The Silk they sold for a 3d of the currant value, which was bought up of the Persian and Armenian Merchants. I bought a Gold-chain of one of them which was almost a fathom long, and in joynts like a Bracelet, between each piece were precious stones: the price I gave for it was not fully 7 pound sterl. Shortly after their Arrival Captain Butler went to visit him, taking 2 bottles of Brandy along with him, which he thought might be an acceptable present, since they had been so long at Sea, and presented them to him and his Mi­nion, whom the Russians called Devils-whisker by a Nick-name. When we came to his Tent; and desired admittance, he sent to know [Page] [Page] [Page 187] who we were; Answer was returned him that we were Dutch, JULY. 1669. and imployed in the service of the Czaar, upon a Ship in the Caspian Sea. He forthwith gave order to a Gentleman to conduct us into his Tent where himself and some of his Council sat, and caused us to sit down, took our present in good part, and drank the Emperours health. Ano­ther time we went through the Camp where we saw him going aboard a Yacht to divertise himself upon the Water, with some of his Offi­cers: he had with him a Persian Princes which he had taken, together with her Brother. The Brother he presented to the Waywod of Astrachan, but the Sister he kept for his Concubine. Being now in the heighth of his Cups, and full of Frolicks, bragged of the many presents he had given and received since his being restored to the Emperours favour, and on a sudden brake out into those Extravagant terms, speaking to the Wolga: VVell, said he, thou art a noble River, and out of thee have I had so much Gold, Silver and many things of Value. Thou art the sole Father and Mother of Fortune and advancement: but, unthankfull man that I am? I have never offered thee any thing: well now, I am resolved to manifest my grati­tude. With those words he took her into his Arms and threw her into the VVolga, with all her rich Habit and Ornaments; her attire was of rich Cloth of Gold, richly set out with Pearls, Diamonds and other precious Stones. The Lady was of an angelical Countenance and a­miable, of a stately carriage of Body, and withall excellently well qualified as to her Parts, being of a singular wit, and always pleasing in her demeanor towards him, when he was in the heat of fury, and yet at last became the instance of his Cruelty. However there is no man so addicted to any one Vice but there are ever more some sparks of vertue. His own outrages as to the sin of Adultery he would allow himself, but would not indulge or dispence with it in others. It hap­pened that a certain Soldier of the Cosacks had been taken in the action with anothers wife: this being made known to Stenko, he caused them both to be instantly apprehended, and the man to be thrown into the River with great stones made fast to his neck and heels: but for the Adulteress he provided another punishment which was to erect a Pale on the Water side, and tying her by the feet caused her to be so drag'd along the Earth, and from the Tent to the Pale which was almost 2 [ English] miles, and there hoised up, where she hung 48 Hours before she died, and yet nevertheless the great torment of [Page 188] which she must needs be sensible, all that time she never was heard to shriek or cry out.

Besides the many Robberies and great insolencies they had com­mitted, as well within Land as in Sea-Towns in Persia, as at Nisabath, Scabaran, Mardore and Tackusi situated near the famous Hill Barmach, from hence they went to Astrabath and Bachu which they surprized took in, and plundered, committing many barbarous actions in massacring of the Inhabitants and setting the Houses on fire. Here they found a great Quantity of Wine, which they divided among themselves, and caroused so long, till they were all besotted and drunk, being about 6000 Men in all. In the mean while the Persians had drawn down several Companies, and all on a sudden fell on this Rout, and made such a slaughter that the twelfth part, or litle more were left alive and Stenko himself 5 times in danger of being taken. The Remainder betook themselves to the Stroegs. This so much weakened them that they were not in a capacity to do any con­siderable damage by land, the more by reason the Persians watched their Coast with very great vigilancy; as did also the Cosacks and Dagestan Tartars, so that they were constrained for some time to­gether to keep off at Sea, and keep close to Pyracy, where eve­ry one was well warned of them and consequently so cautious that they got but very litle Booty. But finding that they could not long subsist they were forced to land at Satyry Boggere an Island (of which before) where they waited for what Providence would allott them.

CHAP. XIV. JUNE. 1669. Stenko returns back and is followed by many Russes, but opposed by an Order from Psoforoski, which Stenko disobeys. He returns again with a greater Power. The Waywode of Astrachan sends out a Fleet against him, which shame­fully yields. The Officers murthered. A great Perplexity at Astrachan, Power and Aw of Stenko. His cruelty and Pride. His Legates are devoured of Dogs in Persia. Kumuskinka surrendred by Treachery.

STenko Radzin whose implacable fury against some that had interpo­sed themselves to incite the Emperour against him, and to de­prive him of his favour, would not suffer him to remain still; but their bodies being now somewhat asswaged which before were swollen with drinking of salt Water, and their Vitals again revived with fresh Diet, which were almost spent with long fasting during the time of their extravagancies, they resolved to go for Don, and to visit their respective homes. Radzin gives them a short warning to prepare for a March, and in order thereto gets all things in a readines himself.

Some discontented Russians seeing the Cosacks ready to depart, they came and desired to list themselves under his Conduct, to which he readily assented, and by fair Promises drew abundance after him.

It happened sometime before he designed to leave the Town that meeting with about 20 or more Russians whom he could see by their countenance to be inclinable to follow him; these he fell in discourse with, and liberally distributed a Bag of Gold among them, promi­sing them that if they would follow him they should fare no worse than he. This was encouragement enough for them who did not only list themselves, but perswaded also many of their Friends to take the like Course, and joyn their Fortunes, amongst whom were divers that were in the Emperours Service.

The Governour of Astrachan coming to understand that several Persons in the service of the great Duke, his Master, had withdrawn and listed themselves among the Rebells, he sent one Wederos a Captain of the Strelitzers to Radzin, with Instructions to demaund the Russians, and to will him to send them back upon pain of the Em­perours Disfavour, which should not be so easily accommodated as before, when perhaps he should be compel'd to make satisfaction for [Page 190] the former Crimes with the new. AUG. 1669. The Captain goes to fulfull his Order, and declares to Radzin the Reason of his comming, and his Message, who would not so much as allow him Audience; but when the Captain began to insist hard upon the remitting of the Men, Rad­zin was so inraged that he drew his sword and threatned Death, if he persisted any longer, and with that made towards him, but the Captain being a discreet Gentleman demeaned himself very fairly, when he saw him in such a Rage, so that he escaped that Danger, and all the vent of Radzin's fury melted away in these words, How dare you, said he. make such an impudent Demand? shall I then betray my Friends who have out of a pure inclination to me ward deserted their nearest Allies and Fortunes? and shall I be threatned with loss of Favour to boot? Prethee, go tell thy Master, that I equally value him and the Emperour, and let him know that I shall be with him ere he be aware, and reward him for this Protervity. The Captain was fain to smother his thoughts, and contented himself with this Answer which he related to the Governour. The Governour here­upon assembles a Council, and consulted what to do; learning from the answer of Radzin that he intended to come down again, and so it happened, for within 3 days he began to march toward the VVolga, where he had 80 Stroegs and other Shipping provided, filled with Ammunition and Men, but did not at first any hostile feat. The VVaywod of Astrachan called a Counsel the second time, where it was concluded that so long as Radzin did not do any attempt or violence upon any Town belonging to the Emperour, he should not oppose him till the whole Navy were come together.

About fourteen days after the whole Fleedarrived, consisting in a great Number of Stroegs with about 6000 Strelitzers, or Soldiers be­sides Powder, shot and Provision. No sooner was the Fleet arrived but Radzin by his Emmissaries had Intelligence of their whole aim imploying such persons therein as he thought lest suspected. He there­fore intimates his mind to some of those in whom he could repose best confidence, to run away and oyn them to the Governours For­ces under name and colour of Deserters. These speeded them away to the Astrachan Fleet and feigned themselves discontented with the abuses which they pretended to have fuffered by Radzin, and were accepted in frienldy manner by the adverse Party, who the rather did it for that they had hopes of a discovery and detection of Radzins [Page 191] Councils. But so soon as they were under Sail and almost close with the Enemy, the Villains on a sudden and unanimously fell upon the Of­ficers, The Offi­cers of the Astra­chan Fleet murthe­red. The great perplexi­ty at A­strachan. and dispatched them surrendring the rest with the whole Fleet into the Hands of the Cosacks, Radzin having got so rich a prey without any difficulty or dispute, instantly ordered his men two Moneths Pay in hand, with promise of free enjoyment of what they should take by Plunder, besides other Means of Encouragement.

The Governour was not a litle dismay'd at these tidings, the more when he understood how the Commonalty murmured against him, and that Radzin was in general laudably spoke of, and that not only in Astrachan but aswell in all the Towns round about that were under the subjection of the Emperour. The Strelitzers who had not in a long time received Pay, and hearing how Radzin had given his men 2 Moneths pay in hand found now occasion to grow mutinous, and that so unanimously that the Government and Officers durst not op­pose them by any rigorous course or violent mean, but did all they could to perswade them by fair words and promises.

Radzin finding himself grow stronger and stronger, Radzins Power and Aw. and that with the Russes now under his command, he had about 16000 Men, he unship'd a part of the Men, and sent some to Czaritza, and others to Txarnojar but he himself remaind upon the Fleet, where he was as much respe­cted as a King, and had a soveraigne aw over the People. His kruelty when drunk. When he was drunk few of the Officers durst appear in presence, for it was very customary with him, for a small offence to behead a Man, al­though the greatest Minion or Favourite he had: The meaner sort were in no danger, for those were wont to flatter him, and upon a Wink would dispatch their Officers, when he had taken any dislike against them, and therefore willing to have them removed, and others in their place. Thus by giving ear to the Commons more than to the Officers he became more dreadfull and formidable for the sole command and direction of the whole Army lay in himself. This besides that gave the Rable such encouragement that in the space of 5 days after he had got the Astrachan Fleet, his Army was raised from 16000 to 27000 Men, being a mixt multitude of Pesants, Slaves Tartars and Cosacks, and men of restless minds from all Parts, being tickled with the thoughts of free enjoyment of Plunder. These running to and again over the face of the Countrey, committed [Page 192] many inhuman acts, SEPT. 1669. and murthered the Gentry, who were fain to belake themselves to Astrachan disguised in Slaves Apparrel. The Pesantry who indeed are very tyrannically dealt with throughout all the Emperours Dominions, here found an occasion to be revenged of their Liege-Lords, and to show their Man-hood brought the Heads of their Lords and threw them at the feet of a Provost or Executioner there to ordained, who gave them a reward for their Pains.

Radzin being arrived to this Pitch of Greatness was so puffed up as is he had conquered all the Empire; tis true he refused the Title of Emperour, saying, that hes purpuse was not to rule as Lord and Soveraign but to live with them as a Brother to revenge that Tyran­ny and Oppressions which they had for so many gears, and their Pro­genitors for so many ages past suffered against all Reason and the Law of Nature. But on the other side, he mainly opposed the King of Persia, and assumed the confidence to Dispalck Ambassadours to that Court to whom he delivered Instructions, full of lofty-proud swelling Titles, and in his Compellation styled the Sophy, Brothen. The Main and Sum of his Memorials and Instructions was. To urge the Sophy to enter into an Alliance with him, and to supply him with Ammunition of war for his Monye and what else he might have oc­casion for. The said Legates were ordered at first to insist upon this by soft means, but in case of refusal te menace the Sophy, and to let him understand that he, (the said Radzin) had 200000 Men ready to invade his Territories, and that he would lake occasion to visit him when he least dreamed on it, &c. So Soon as the King had un­derstood their Instructions were to threaten him in case he refused to comply with Readzins Proposals, he sent for them and having an Executioner at hand made him forthwith chopp off their hiads with a Scimmatar, The Le­gates of Radzin beheaded am their Bodies thrown to the Dogs. and commanded that their Rodies should be throw to the Dogs which were kept in the Kennel on purpose, reser­ving only one to acquaint their Master how kind a Receptian they had m [...]t with at the Persian Court, and gave him a short but sharp Memorial for Radzin, threatning to come ere long and chaw those Boars which had so depopulated the utmost Borders of his Domi­nions, at what time he would not throw him living but deat to the hungry Mastirs. This Cosack Envoye glad to come of so well with Soul [Page 193] and Body inseperate came only to deliver Radzin the Result of his unsuccesfull Ambassage; APRIL. 1670. upon which the Rebel was so nettled that he commanded an Executioner to hew him into morsels for Ravens meat.

Radzins Passion being over he did all he could to increase his Fleet and Army, for which end he dispatched several Emmissa­ries to allure the Russian Soldatesque to desert their service, in divers Towns upon the VVolga, judging those the fittest for his Turn, for that they were the best acquainted with the Intrigues of the Russian Militia, and consequently the more serviceable upon occa­sion of attacquing any Town or Fort he design'd upon. Thus having accomplished his Ends with very good success, he Musters up his Forces, and sends some of the Strelitzers to Kamuschinka, who were to go under the Notion of Imperial command (for as yet they had no further Intelligence from Moscou, since the Rebels left Astrachan) these then pretending to come from the Czaar, to advise the Governour how he should behave himself, in case they attacqu'd the Town, were caressed by the Military Officers, and consequently so much confided in, that they found an oppor­tunity to dispatch the Governour and almost all the Officers of the Garrison, having before hand created the Remaining party Members of Rebellion, and immediately fired a Gun, which was a Token to Radzin that he should Approach and surprize the Town, which he did with expetible success, and planted a Garrison of Cosacks, removing the Russian Strelitzers into the Navy.

CHAP. XV. The Animosities and Tumults in Astrachan. Stariza taken in by the Cosacks. A Fleet sent out against them. The Cosacks win Tzarnojar. The Russian Fleet yields to the Cosaks. The great Insolency and boldness of the Mobile of Astrachan. The valour of the Waywod or Governour. Advised to abscond or absent himself, which is put in practice.

THese Tidings coming to Astrachan, was the occasion of no small murmurings and Jealousies among the Townsmen, none know­ing [Page 194] who was friend and who was Enemy, or in whom they might rely on, or repose any trust; insomuch that many discontented persons began to make Factions and breath Rebellion, though not so openly as that the Government could take advantage to suppress it. The VVaywod Prosorofski considering that the Commonalty were very much incensed, and that some mutinous Enterprize was a hatching, he assembles the Lords and Council of Astrachan, to consult with their Judgments what was best to be done in those imminent Dangers and Juncture of Affairs, and what course they should take to sedate those Animosities and Heats, which ill-affected persons indeavoured to raise and foment among the Towns-men and Plebeïans; as also what manner of Defence to use against the approaching Enemy. As to the former they concluded, that there was no better way to remedy it, than to conduct themselves warily in the latter, and first obstruct the growing Power of the Rebells, which Perils being removed it might not then be doubted but that the Commons would be the better and sooner pacified. Upon this Resolution several worthy Gentlemen presented their Service to go as private Soldiers upon that sudden and urging Expedition, not daring any more to put the lest Confi­dence in the Strelitzers.

On the 10 of April 1670 the Bojar Petrofski dispatched 800 Horse under the Conduct of Col. Levonti Bogdanof, whereof 400 were Russians, the rest Nagayans, to furnish the City Stariza, (lying about 80 German miles from Astrachan) with Ammunition and necessary Provision, and to strengthen that Place with those Men, which lies upon the River Don or Tanais, where the Cosacks have their Residence. This River was of old supposed to run into the VVolga, as some Geo­graphers have been pleased to write, but later experience has fairly contradicted that opinion, for their Boats which are no more than trunks of trees hollowed, they are fain to drag and trail a days Journey over Land before they find the VVolga, at the nearest distance those Rivers ly to each other, where when they are come they ty heavy Balks on each side to keep them above Water, and to give them a due ballance and poize in their floating.

Stariza taken in by the Cosacks.On the 28 came an Express to Astrachan from Col. Bogdanof, with news that the Cosacks had already taken in Stariza, and had killed 1200 Moscovian Strelitzers, who were but newly come thither before the [Page 195] Siege, this Relation was given the Collonel by a Captive Cosack. The VVaywod also got intelligence how that the Field-Tartars were in great discord among themselves, and that their Factions were so far advan­ced, that they were become open Hostility, and their Power wasted by intestine strife; upon which Collonel Bogdanof was marched on to Czornojar, which is an Imperial Town, about 50 German miles from Astra­chan. The said Captive Cosack was so tortured on the Rack, that the most hard-hearted Russians then present had compassion of him, yet nothing could be forced from him but what he made voluntary con­fession of, before he came to the Rack.

By this time the Emperour had got full intelligence of the Tumult of the Cosacks, and of Radzins purpose, together with his barbarous massacres already committed upon his Subjects, and that he continual­ly depopulated his Countrey, he gave order to levy new Forces, in place of the Old, which were to be sent upon this Expedition, as also as many Stroegs as could on a sudden be put in Equippage, for which end the Deputies of the Towns upon the Wolga did their utmost to com­plete a Fleet of 40 Sail. Upon each Stroeg was only one great Gun, but other Ammunition as much as was necessary for so many men as the Stroegh was capable or fit to carry. Aboard the said Fleet were 2600 Russian Strelitzers, and 500 voluntiers of Astratay under the Conduct of Simeum Ivanowitz Elbof a Kneez, who was for the time being made Commander in chief. These men were of the Regiment of Ivan Rusinski a Polander, but baptized a Russian Proselyte, whose Lieutenant was one James VVonderham, a Scottish Gentleman. The other Commanders were Capt. Paul Rudolph a German. Capt. Robert Heut an Englishman, and Nicholas Schaack who was our Lieu­tenant, being made a Captain by the Russians. Besides two other German Lieutenants and two Ensigns of that Nation, who were also Russian Proselytes. The rest were Moscovians and Polonians.

On the 25 of May being Whitsunday, the Fleet left Astrachan, and the Cosack who was tortured almost to death hang'd up in their sight. In the mean while the Citizens and Commons began to buzz and murmure against the Deputy and the Officers, and grew so bold that they reviled him when he rode through the Town, he not daring to suppress them for fear of a greater irruption of that rebellious Fire, which lay still unsmothered, till he understood the success of Simeum [Page 196] Ivanowitz, MAY. 1670. whose happy arrival the Deputy and all peaceably minded persons earnestly longed for: the City being now in a very weak condition and low, since the Levying of those that were sent out with Simeum Ivanowitz, and consequently the Mobile the bolder. But on the 4 of Iune, by a Gentleman who had made his Escape, they had notice of the Affairs of Tzornojar, that on the same day that the Knees Elboof made his appearance the Town was taken in, and that the Governour and Officers were all massacred and their Bodies thrown into the River: and further, what was more deplorable, the Privat Soldatesque of Knees Elboof had murthered all their Officers in the Fleet, declared themselves for the Cosacks, and surrendred all the Shipping into the Hands of Stenko Radzin the grand Belweather, or Ringleader of the Rebells; altho immediately before their coming at Tzornojar they had unanimously sworn, to live and dy with their Leaders. The Report of these things, altho the Governour indea­vored to smother as much as was possible, gave the Rabble greater Occasion to mutiny than they had before; yea, so far they were induced, that they publicly reproached the Superiority that they durst not look out of their doors, or windows, much less walk the streets to consult together of means to remedy the distemper of affairs, to defend themselves against the Hostility abroad, and to suppress intestin Jarrs at home, for it was no rare thing now to see the Rabble assemble togethers in heaps, and before the Doors of the Magistrates to cry out with infamous and bitter Railings, Now, now, the times begin to alter, it will be our turn next to Lord it, you villains come out and show your selves to the VVorld, &c.

The Governour in the mean while lost no courage on his part, and the Gentry and Officers still continued under hopes of Assistance from the Field Army, and new succour and Recruits from Moscou. The Deputy therefore caused all the Ordnance to be visited and laden by the German Gunners, and gave orders to furnish themselves with necessary Ammunition. However we could very well remark, that were the Officers never so sedulous, they were never able both to defend themselves from such a Power without, and be secure for Mutiny within, of which many Reasons were given to the VVaywode, and he as often forewarned by divers prudent Persons. The VVaywod Prosorofski would willingly have had us in the Town-service, but being [Page 197] we were taken on for the Ships use, JUNE. 1670. we judged it best to stay where we were, the more for that we knew the Cosacks were more severe against Forreign Auxiliaries, than the Moscovians if once made Captives.

In the mean while we heard continual News of the approaching of the Cosacks, to attacque Astrachan, which had it's inward state been in all things conformable to the Muniments of that Town, they needed not fear 100000 undisciplin'd men as are the Cosacks, for to say no­thing of the Ramparts and Fortifications of the Walls, there lay about four hundred and sixty great brass Guns in the Battlements, be­sides, those of the Cittadel. Every day we expected new troubles, and commotions, insomuch that we thought it not fit to stay there any longer, lest we should be massacred in the Uproar, but no one of us durst speak their minds, or be the first mover of such means to save our lives, for that it might seem to stink too much of Rebellion, nor could we know how it might be resented. However it came so far that Captain Butler began also to dread some ill might befall us if we did not consult our Safety betimes; he therefore upon a time called us all together, and uttered his mind in these, or the like words. Gentlemen, I doubt not but that you a [...]e all sensible of the present dan­ger which hangs over our Heads, and that there is not much hope left to hazard our Persons any longer here, the Sum of what I have to say is briefly to advise and request of you all to pack up what you have into the Shallop, and that we forthwith betake our selves to the Persian Coast, and take what GOD in in his bountifull Providence is pleased to allott us. He ordered us further to get all in a readiness to be aboard before the Gates were shut, for that he was not resolved to wait one quarter of an hour for any Person: in the mean while we made a quick dispatch, and in a moment had got our best Goods aboard, and all what we thought worth our while to bring along. Our Captain advised us not to take 2 of our Company with us, Brak and Trappen, because they had wives and children, and consequently would both be a cumber for us, and uneasiness for them­selves on so dangerous a Voyage: but I having compassion with my neighbour Brak, I made him come aboard with his Wife and Child; but Trappen was not willing to leave Astrachan, unless he had been better furnished with Money than he was, or something else in lieu thereof. We were 15 Men, besides a Woman and a Child in the [Page 198] Shallop where we still waited for the Captain and two other Persons whose Goods we had with us in the Boat. After a long expectation we saw no Captain come, it growing late in the Evening, and our Men impatient of delay would needs thrust off from the Wall, but Lambert Helt the Master restrained us all he could, saying, That it was what we could not answer, &c. Thus we staid waiting till the Gates were to, still expecting their coming, but midnight already come and no tidings of them we began to be in a hundred Fears: some were of Opinion that the Captain was gone in a Knote or some other small Vessel with the other two Gentlemen that were with him, or that he was taken and secured: others were jealous that the Wife of Trappe [...] had betray'd us. Thus in great fear we lay all the time, not know­ing what course to take, well knowing that if the Russes had understood our Purpose, it would have cost us our lives, nor had we dared to stay so long had not our Shallop lay on the other side of the Ship from the Town-ward, and therefore out of sight: Nor could we be easily induced to beleeve that they would mistrust our venturing our lives in the Sea with such a Boat. Thus we resolved by the grace of GOD to thwart the Caspian Meer and so for the Persian Coast, and rather trust to the divine Providence of Heaven, than confide in the uncertain Mercies of unreasonable Men.

CHAP. XVI. They fall down the Wolga, and miss their Course. Then touch at Oetzjoege. The strange manner of fishing of the Bieloege. The great plenty of Cavear. They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caspian Sea; which at last they get. A description of the Island Satyry Boggere, Tall Reeds grow all along the Coast. A dread­full Tempest. The Golden Bay. Their meeting with a Tartarian Bark. A de­scription of Terki. The Beginning of the Circas-Tartars; Their Persons and Complexions described. Their Habit and Way of Living. Of their Women, their Habit, Humours and Inclinations. Their Idolatry.

ON the 22 of Iune about midnight we put off and rowed down the River and ran into a Creek, which we still took for the Wolga, till afterward we found the contrary. We saw here and there some Cottages of the Nagayan-Tartars, but had not the Courage to go and [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 199] visit them lest we should be taken and sold for Slaves. The Countrey here about is very pleasant, mostly meadow ground, and plentifull of Camels, Dromedaries, Horses, Sheep and Goats, which wan­der to the belly in grass: There are also some small Woods in which we saw many wild Swine with their Pigs playing together and ma­sting. Here we were in a great strait not knowing what to do, for we strayed from one Lake to another, and almost ready to eat one ano­ther up for vexation. In the mean while the Clouds began to rise, very thick at South-east which we thought did presage storm, as at last it broke out into a Thunder, wherefore we were forced to put in at a reedy Island, so long as the Weather continued so boystrous. When the storm was over and the Sky began to clear up, we betook our selves to the Water and directed our course to the Southward, where beating along the Coast we discovered a small Cnoots, or Tartarian Boat which came directly against us and asked whither we intended; we told them, For the Caspian Sea. They then again replied that we were far out of our way, and if we went but a litle further that we would be in danger of being taken by the Crim-Tartars and made Slaves. Hereupon some of our Company pray'd them that they would pilot us down to the mouth of the River, which they promised to do, and agreed with us for a Ducat. We took one of those Tartars aboard the Shallop, and kept company a while with the rest. After a few hours sailing we got Oetsjoege, which is the chief place where the Fish Biloege is taken, whereof Cavear is made, being far greater than a Sturgeon, but of the same kind. The Wolga is here all laid in with Stakes, after the manner you see in the Plate, these Stakes are set in rows, wide at the Entrance so that they can drive in the Fish, which when once in they chace to the other end, where it runs up to a narrow angle, so that she can neither get forward, nor yet turn about, but is easily taken. When they have caught her they take out the Rows, which weighs ordina­rily 300 or 400 lb. but the rest of the Fish they commonly throw away, although sometimes they pickle it, and send it to Moscovy where it is held in reasonable good esteem. The length of one of those Biloeges is from 26 to 30 foot if come to its full growth. Cavear is used all over Russia and Moscovia instead of Butter during their Lent, which as I have before remarked, comes 4 times a year, and is likewise sent into all parts of Europe, so that this Fishing is hard followed by [Page 200] the Russes and Tartars who finding such a good vent of their commodity make a considerable advantage of it: And so many are the Stake [...] works here that a company of 15 or 20 Boats will take sometimes 2 3 or 4 hundred Fish on a day, for no sooner have they done at o [...] place but they find chace in another.

When we were come to this Place, The Tartars would not convoyes any further, saying, If you were but sensible of the difficult passage [...] get the Sea, you would keep you where you are; but, added they, if you [...] resolve to go, when you are at Oetsjoege you may set your course directly forwa [...] till you come at the Sea. This we were forced to take in good part, an [...] pay them for their pains. The money we conditioned for satisfie [...] them very well, but at parting they told us, that they were affraid [...] would not easily get through, whereas they knew no better but there was a stri [...] watch held on each side the Wolga. This last startled us not a little however we resolved unanimously hap hazard to venture through let what would follow, adjudging it equally safe to run that peri [...] or to suffer the Calamities we were liable to, and had in some regar [...] deserved: and in that resolution continued sailing till we found th [...] Stakes or Pale-work so close in the Mouth of the River, that the [...] was only a narrow Passage to go through. About the end of the sai [...] passage we saw a Redoubt, which at a distance seemed to be ver [...] strongly fortified, which mainly increased our fears, but greatly t [...] our good luck we found no Watch but only a few Fishers, who ha [...] no Authority, or warrant to examin, us, insomuch that we steere [...] boldly through; but considering our Bread was almost brought to a [...] end, for we were brought to an Allowance of an ounce per diem, w [...] therefore turned back and prayed the Fishermen to supply us for our Moneys; but they told us they had hardly enough to suffice themselves, which very much disheartned us, however they supplied us with Fish as much as we had need of to serve us over the Caspian Meer.

On the 14 we set out and left the Wolga, which there leaves it sel [...] divided into several streams or Heads like the Nile (as before) making so many several Islands, which are low and full of Reeds, except only the Island Satyri Boggore, which is surrounded on every side with high Cliffs. Upon this Island we saw some Watch-houses which Stenko Radzin (even now remembred) had caused to be built, to view the approachment of his Enemies. However it was not intent [Page 201] his intent or design (in building of these Watch-houses) only to be forewarned of any danger, but to prey upon the Persian Merchant men, who were bound for Astrachan. From hence to the Circas-Mountains we often sounded and found it never more, or seldom less than 12 foot Water. All along the Coast we saw abundance of Wild­geese Pelicans and other Fowl which now and then we bestowed a litle powder upon. The strand was all grown over with Reeds, which grow to an incredible heighth, and the Water there we found deeper than off at Sea, in somuch that it were very commodious, in a storm for any small vessel to shelter themselves, dropping anchor a litle without, for the Reeds break of the Winds and the impetuous beatings of the Water. In the afternoon towards the Evening it began to thunder and rain very hard, the Wind was very high at South and by East, and our Course lay South and by West. The Water all the time beat over the Gunhil, and two men forced to heave out with their Backlers, though hardly to any purpose, for notwithstanding all the pains they took the Shallop was still full, the Tempest continuing so till 5 in the next morning, at what time it began to grow very calm and moderate, yet not so but that we were driven with a fine fresh Gale. The Water here is fresh and potable, and affoards all manner of Fish, that usually breed in fresh Rivers, Pike, Carps, Breams, &c. Besides Sturgeons, Seals and other crea­tures that will endure both.

On the 15 we lost the sight of Land, and came about midday into the Bay Kieselarke, which is otherwise called the Golden Bay the sand whereof shines as fire, and is therefore by some called Kiselarsche Kolt­hoeh, which is no other than Golden Bay. My curiosity was often to tast the Water; sometimes I found it last of Sulfur, sometimes of Saltpeter, and sometimes of an od bitter tast, whence I collected that this came from the property of the Ground and bottom. The River Kiselar is a Branch, or an Arm of the Bustro, rising about 8 Dutch Leagues above Terki, and runs paralel with the VVolga about 65 leagues, so disbanding its floods into the Caspian Sea. But now we were in a more desperate Condition than ever, partly for that our Shallop was so loaden that we were not a foot above Water, and on the other hand wanted bread, for we had not above 6 or 7 pound among all the Company. The Wind began to grow high and boystrous, and [Page 202] towards the Evening we had a very rough Sea, every billow rising Mountains high, insomuch that with continual pumping and laving we had much ado to keep the Shallop above Water, working some times 4 or 5 together, and by taking turns relieved those that were wea­ry every hour with fresh men. The next morning we could see no land, but let all be left to the mercy of GOD.

On the 16 we had a stiff gale, and sailed before the Wind, which furthered us so, that by noon we descried Land: and soon after got sight of a Dagestan-Tartar's Barque, which we made up to, but when we came near it, it was run upon a Bank, and deserted of the Men, which upon our approaching them, jump'd over board. We percei­ving that it was only for us that they left their Vessel; called out to them, and willed them freely to return and that we meant no harm; upon which they came back, and we pray'd them to furnish us with some bread for our Money, but they told us that they had not enough for their own Voyage however they gave us 6 litle Loaves, for which they would have no money, as also dried Pears and Plumbs which we thank fully received. This said Bark was laden with Bales of Silk and bound for Astrachan, which when we understood we gave them a Caution, and told them that we verily beleeved that by that time Astrachan was in hand of the Cosacks, and consequently we could not judge it safe for them to proceed on their Journey thither. They thanked us for our Advice, and directed their Course for Terky, that being also a good Market. We agreed among our selves to follow the like course, with intent, at least, to supply our want of Provision, not knowing whether the Town was taken in by the Cosacks, or that it was still under the Emperour. About 9 in the Evening we anchored before the Town, and immediately upon our anchorage saw 10 or 12 Soldiers come rowing towards us, but when they came nigh saw that we were well armed, offered not to do any violent Act, but only asked us, Who we were? and, From whence we came? We answe­red, That we were Hollanders, belonging to his Majesties great Ship at Astrachan, and were come thither to sound the Bay and Haven. Ho! Ho! said they, are you those men? You must come before the Lord Deputy: hereupon we made answer, That it was then too late, but the next Morning betimes we would wait upon his Excellency. With this answer they seem'd to be satisfied but we thought it not safe for us to tarry there long, but [Page 203] before creek of day we loosed, and set our course S. and by W.

Terky is situate in 43 degr. and 27 min. about an [ English] league from the strand. It has been 3 times surveyed and laid out. A De­scription of Terky. The first time by the Russes themselves; the second time by one Cornelius Claasz a Dutch Ingenieur, about the year 1636, who also strengthned the said Town with Walls and Bulwarks after the modern way of Fortifica­tion: and in the year 1670 it was survey'd and fortified anew by Colonel Baily, an English Gentleman, with huge strong Bulwarks, and and a wide and deep Mote, encompassing it quite round. The City is seated in a Champan Countrey without either Wood or Hill so far as one can view. The River is also called Terky by the Moscovians, but by the Inhabitants Timenky. The Banks lying upon the Sea are all grown over with Canes, and rough. Terky is a place of great Trust, being the Kay or Barricado of the Czars Dominions, for it lies on the Frontiers of the Russian Territories, and for that end has always a Garrison of 2000 Strelitzers.

All the night it blew very hard, and in the morning we saw land on each side. The Island which lay on the Larboard side we called Meynders Island, because he was the first that discovered it. We steered directly through the Islands, and when we were about 20 leagues within the Bay, we discovered high land, which we after­ward knew to be the famous Caucasus and Ararat, which also border and extend to the Circas Hills, and sailing a litle further we found that we were near the Quick-sands, so that we were fain to tack about, and bear up to the Channel, where coming we sounded and found it 2 fathom, and a good sandy ground. Being just got thorow the straits or narrow Channel, we looked about and discovered a great Bark making up toward us with all the Sail they could; which afterwards we understood was sent by order of the Governour of Terki, to pursue us, having 62 Soldiers, and all well armed aboard, with a charge from the Governour to give us no quarter, but to hack us in pieces, and to bring back the Shallop and Goods to Terky. We seeing them in a full pursuit thought it no time to dally, but laboured as hard as we could, till we got the Island Sierlan where we came to Anchor, and the Bark seemed to give over their chace.

On the 18 ditto, betimes in the morning we set Sail, and indea­voured to gain the High land, which before the Evening came, on [Page 204] we did putting in at a River, and were assured that we were not with­in the Jurisdiction of the Czar, which is bounded by the Timenki.

Bounds of the Circas Tartars. Their Persons,The Circas Dominion begins at the Timenki, and is bounded from Nagaya by the Step; and from the Dagestan-Tartars by the River Bustro. The Countrey is very fertile, producing good store both of Fruit and Grain, and is also good Pasture-ground. The men are very corpulent and withall robust, have broad-faces but not square like the Calmucs, Comple­xions. or Crims; they are of a swarthy yellow complexion, and shave their Heads and Beards after a strange manner: Cross over the head they make a bare stroak, and yet let a tuft grow in the Crown, and on each side it hangs down in two great bushes, which sometimes they let hang loose, and sometimes plate. They wear gray Felt-coats with a mantle of the same, and Ha­bits. which is rough without; this they hang slovenly about the neck made fast with a great button, that they can turn it which way they list, and make it serve for a Buckler against the Wind. They sometimes wear Bonnets, made of cloath, which they fold into a square figure, that they look like Jesuits Caps when they wear them. They are a surly ill-natured people and blockish, not fit to converse with, but yet more friendly than the Calmucs. They seldom appear abroad without their Horses, upon which they seem as if they were planted. Their Arms are a kind of Musquet, but the Long­bow is with them more in use, which they can handle with great dexterity.

Their Women in regard of their complexion seem almost as if they were of another Nation, being in reality very fair and lovely, their skin as white as the fairest people of Europe, and their countenance angelical; which I have often wondred at, when I compared them with the Men. They are also well proportioned in their Bodies and of a middle stature. Their Eiebrows are jet-black, as also their Hair which hangs down in seven or 8 curled locks on each side the Head. They cover not their Faces, like most of the Women in the borde­dering Nations. Their Head-attire is a double black Hood, lined with Cotton and made fast under the Chin: above that they wear a Velvet or sattin Quoif, and are very nice in setting of it. The Widdows are distinguished by wearing a Cows-bladder behind their head, full­blown, and covered over with Silk, or some fine Stuff, so that at a distance one would think that they had 2 Heads a piece. In Winter [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 205] they wear Furs, but in Summer are so impatient of heat, that they only wear a loose Shirt of red, green or blue, and that open from the Collar to the Navel. Those of better fashion do usually wear two Coats and a pair of Drawers coming down to the Calf of the Legg, and sometimes to the ancles. They are as curious in setting of their Brests as the English or French Ladies, altho they never accustome themselves to painting. They are very familiar and free in conversa­tion and will not refuse to let a stranger kiss them: altho in presence of their Husbands who are never jealous without reason. To confess the Truth I was very much caressed by them, being often beckned at under colour of viewing my Habit, which to them seemed very strange. To be brief their Women are as curious in their Accoutre­ments and adorning of the Body, as they are complete persons by nature. They are very ambitious and emulating in ornaments, and are well trick'd up with Chains, Bracelets, Rings and other fine things, and those both of Gold, Silver, Pearl, Coral, &c. which they become exceeding well. As I have already said, they are very friendly and familiar with strangers, as appeared by their community with us, when as some of our men began to tickle and play with them, which they took all in good part, but HE that offered to be bolder paid severely for it. The Men, altho the Alchoran do dispence with Polygamy, yet they rest contented with one wife, whether because they think it too chargeable, or otherwise unreasonable I cannot affirm. They are Mahometans by profession, but in reality meer Hea­thens; for although they speak much of one only eternal God the Author of their being, and Administrator of the World, yet they deny him in their Idolatry and Devil-worship. They have neither Priests, Churches, nor Writ, but at certain times and places present themselves with their Offerings. The greatest day wherein they pay these Religious duties is on the Festival of St. Elias which happened on that very time when we were there, which we essayed to see solemni­zed, but were not permitted. All I could observe was only the Sa­crificing of a Hee-goat, which after they had cut off his Genitals, offered the sore and boyled the hinder-part, which themselves always eat, hanging the Hide upon a Stake, which is done with a few Ceremonies and Singing. These Solemnities are also done as often as any of their Friends are deceased, whose corps they commit [Page] [...] [Page 205] [...] [Page 206] very decently to the Earth but not without a great howling and a noise; those also that follow him tear and mangle their Bodies after an unusual manner.

CHAP. XVII. They Author and his Company err in their Course. They meet with a Cosac-Bark. A great Tempest. The Beginning and Limits of the Dagestan-Tartars; Their Posture or Frame of Body, Habit and Way of Living. They are great Pla­giaries. The Barrenness of the Dagestan Mountains. Another great Tempest. The Shallop run astrand and is spied by the Tartars, who plunder them. The strange way of electing the Dagestan Kings. They are assailed by another Com­pany who ravish the Woman in presence of her Husband, and convert them all to Slaves. The Author tortured to detect his Companions, which he man­fully endures. They are brought before the Osmyn, and chained.

ON the 19 ditto, we set sail and directed our course towards the Island Tzetzien, which we sailed past, and had Tzierlan to the lee­ward; having very misty weather all the while, which dured 24 hours or more.

The next morning it cleared up, and we got sight of the high Circas Mountains, which we aimed at, if possible to come nearer the shoar, & so to coast it all along, after we had laboured and lay beating in the Wind about 3 or 4 hours we saw a long neck of Land, which we took for an Island, and indeavouring to sail through a narrow passage we found our selves in a Quicksand, so that we were fain to tack about, having sail'd the whole day in vain, and at the dawning of the day we came into the Channel which was a good sandy ground and fit for Anchorage. Here we met with a Bark having about 60 or 70 Men on board, who called to us and prayed us to help them afloat, preten­ding they were aground, and fast among the sands, which some of our Company would have done, but the major part were for the Negative, and so oversway'd the rest that were willing; for we saw the Vessel jogg too and again very lightly, that we easily suspected some bad design, as afterward it appeared, for when they saw us wind about, they made all the Sail they could and pursued us, till finding that we were very well armed they gave over their chace. The men [Page 207] aboard were Cosacks, and as we beleeved of Radzins Folk.

Finding that they left us we consulted which way to steer, and resolved to let drive before the Wind. We sounded and found 4 fathom, and came in a short time close by Zierlan, which we found to ly in 43 degr. 7 min. From hence we saw the famous Ararat, moun­ting his head far above the Caucasus, which was nearer us. The Land of the Island Zierlan is all covered with shells, which seem to be wash'd over, with high Floods and Inundations, whence I presume none will Inhabit it. About evening we put off, and after an hours failing sounded and found we had 6 fathom and a sandy ground. When night came we were surprized with a great Tempest, and the Sea rose mountains high, insomuch that we expected every moment to go to bottom, and so we were thrown to and again on the tops of the billows. In the morning it began to clear up and the Winds abated som­ething, so that we made a litle sail, and indeavoured to steer towards the High-lands on the Circas coast. After much labour in beating through the Waves, and danger of our lives we got that heighth. We sailed by a Tartarian City Seated near the Water between two Hills, and by the way met with a Moscovian Boes where the Men aboard had acquaintance with us, having lay with their Vessel aboard our Ship at Astrachan. The said Men invited us all to dinner, of Fresh Mutton and Rice, which they first parboiled, and afterward stewed with Butter, of which we made a hearty meal. After we had taken our leaves of them, we steered away by the Coast, and saw many pleasant Valleys and a fruitfull Countrey. When the Evening came on, and we seeing it good weather resolved that night to take our rest, which we had not done for 3 nights together, and to that end drop­ped anchor.

On the 20 we came within 15 Leagues of Derbent, The Da­gestan-Tartars. Their Form, Habit and VVay of living. which is the land of the Dagestan Tartars, who are so called for that they inhabit the hilly Countrey, the word Dag in their tongue signifying a Mountain. That part of the Countrey which lies toward the Sea is dry and heathy, but within land very fruitfull, as afterward to our sorrow we found it. The men are very robust and able of Body, of a deep swarthy com­plexion, and terrible to look at. Their Habit is much at one with the Circas-Tartars. Their shoes are onely made of an Horses hide undrest and of one piece, drawn together above the foot with Thongs. Their [Page 208] Arms are only Bow Arrows and a Scimmatar, although some have also Spears and Launces: when they ride out, or go upon any ex­pedition, they put themselves in Harnass, to wit, a Helmet and a Target. They are great Men-stealers, not sticking if they find oppo [...] ­tunity to sell their own Relations, or Children of their nearest Friends, which they bring to the Turks and Persians. They are very bold, and not easily daunted at any forreign Power, trusting to the steep cragg [...] and Mountains which are to others inaccessible. They are Mahome­tans by profession, but sorry Zealots for their Religion. The Wome [...] feed and keep cattel, but their men go out a Robbing. These Moun­tains are very barren and sandy except where it is chalky.

The next day we weighed anchor and came before the Tartari [...] town Boynak, which when we had just passed by, it began to blow very hard, from the Sea ward, we having then about 16 fathom Water In the mean time the Sea began to grow very rough and hollow that we were forced to run the Shallop immediately a strand for fear of overturning; being then but 5 leagues from Derbent, which was the nearest Land. Directly before the coast lay a long Rif or Bank and round about us was rocks, which we by the grace of GOD esca­ped, tho very narrowly; for indeavoring to get our selves afloa [...] again we ran into a Circle of Rocks about 3 or 4 foot under Water, and had much labour to get clear. Having now wrought our selves out we gave our selves over to the mercy of Heaven, letting the Boat drive what way it would, till at last by a great Sea we were thrown upon the strand, without either loss of men or Goods, every man packing up what they thought fit to carry along with them. The Goods which belonged to Capt. Butler and Mr. Termund we buried in the Sand, thinking to send for them upon occasion by the Persians. But most unhappy proved this our landing here, for no sooner were we come ashoar but we were espied by the Tartars, who came and delved up the Goods we had so hidden, and carried it away upon their Horses to a litle Village hard by, and brought the news of such an accidental Booty to Aly Sultan, their Prince, who came on Horse back with a guard of Troopers to seek us. Altho by day we hid our selves in the Woods, and by night went forward on our Journey.

Having remained one night in the Woods where we took our rest, Our Company consulted what was best to do, whether to march [Page 109] forward on our journey or to tarry; It was advised by the major part to go, but I was rather desirous to tarry 3 or 4 days longer, till the heat of the pursuit was over, that so thinking when the Tartars should have sought for us a while in vain, they would give us over for lost. However they were very forward to be going, and rejected my Council. In the mean while C. Brak slept with his wife and child at a litle distance from us, and the rest of the Company would that we should leave them there, because that the Woman and Child were but a cumber to us. So soon as I understood their intent was to leave them so, I insisted on the contrary, with words to this effect. Pray Gentlemen remember your selves; to what end should you do such an unworthy act, and leave those poor souls behind us who have neither Money nor means to subsist, and must in all apparency perish in a strange place? and then what guilt must we have upon our Consciences? But know this if you indeed resolve, to go and leav'em it is also my resolution to cry out and make our Fates equal. When they saw me so zealous and in a hot passion, they were con­tented to take them with us. I was the more concerned at it, for his Fathers sake, who when we left our Native Countrey show'd us all imaginable Friendship, and therefore indeared him the more to me. About half a day we marched with Muskets and other heavy Armor upon our shoulders, besides our baggage, along the sides of the Mountains, till at last we came into a Valley where we were espied by a Company of Troopers, being about 15 or 16. These made up towards us, and drove harder and harder, till coming near at hand, we began to consult about the point of Safety, yet could not come to an unanimous Resolution till it was too late: some were for De­fence, others for yielding, which Advice was thought best, and approved on by the major part; for that we thought if the kind Heavens had given us the Field for that time, yet we were sure that some must loose their lives, and that they might in the mean time be seconded by another fresh Party, who when all was done would take the remainder and use us the more unkindly for our obstinacy. They sur­render themsel­ves, We therefore upon their approachment freely surrendred our selves into their hands and implored their Mercy after the best manner, and with all the signs we could. When they had got us into their Power, they drove us into the Jurisdiction of the Scemkals, for we were then within the Confines of the Osmin. When they had brought us [Page 210] within their own limits, they allighted from their horses and plun­dered us, yet not with that rigorous usage we feared, for having stript us of our upper Garment they let us go, taking only what we had with us that was thought to be of any value. They took from me a Parcel of rich Silk, which I had bought of the Rebells at Astra­chan, but my gold Chain which I had fastened in the inside of my Garter they did not find. When they had thus pillaged us, they di­rected us which way to go for our Safety.

Dagestan is a Countrey subject to divers Princes and Lords who are independently Sovereign, but the most principal Provinces are Scemkal and Osmin, already mentioned: and of those two, the for­mer is the more eminent, the Government whereof is not heredi­tary, A strange man­ner of electing a Prince. but by lot, which is after this manner. The High Priest first appoints a day of Election, to which several of the Princes, or Myrses (as they term them) are assembled, these being set all in order round about him, he throws up a litle Apple, but whether of Gold, or Gilded, I cannot be positiv: upon this they all grabble to catch it, and he that getts it is chosen for their Prince, altho, he can favour any he has a mind to, by casting it that way. Which may also serv for an Embleme to represent Elections in other places, where Policy seems to be more refined.

They are assailed and plun­dered a second time.By that time we had travelled an hour, we were aware of another Troop of Horse; greater than the former, who fell suddenly upon us, stripped us to the shirts, and ravished the wife of my Countrey­man Brak, before our Eies, and left her naked. My shirt and Drawers which were left me I gave to the Woman, on whom I had more compassion than on my self. They take their leaves of each other and depart. Upon this deplorable accident we took our leaves of each other and departed, being naked and unfit to assist each other any more, going two or three in a company to­gether. Els Pieterson and Mr. Tolk chused to go with me, and by that time we had travailled 2 or 3 hours further we were set upon by ano­ther Company of Horse, The Author and two more taken and made Slaves. belonging to the Osmin. These took us, tied our hands behind our back, made us fast to their Horses Tails, and so to trot after them through Thistles and Thorns backwards, so that the Horse men driving on apace sometimes dragged us for­ward, for it was not possible that we should keep pace with them. After they had brought us a good way, they untied me and bin­ding [Page 211] me fast to a Tree, shot me with their Arrows, which they had broken off and made stumped on purpose to urge me to discover the rest of our Company. But when they could not move me to detect them they continued shooting, that I often wished that they would have dispatched me, and rid me of that misery. The marks and pits remain still in my Body, as I have shown them to many hundreds since my arrival at home. These Torments I endured with incredi­ble patience, not willing to detect my Countreymen, Torments, I say, that none without experience could be able to imagine how great. When they insisted hard that I should tell them which way they went, I told them that they went toward the Hilly Countrey, altho I was certain on the contrary for they had determined to go along the Ri­ver, that they might have their shelter in the Woods. After they had used us so inhumanly and out of hopes of getting any thing from us, they took me and Els Pletersz, tied us legg to legg with a small Iron Chain, and so brought us up to the Prince Osmin, often threat­ning that they would tear us limb from limb, sustaining that Opi­nion of us that we were of Stephen Radzin's Company, and sent out as Emmissaries on his behalf, and therefore were resolved that his Insolencies should be lay to our charge. When I understood that their Opinion and Intentions were such, I was in a great conster­nation, not that I was affraid of Death (for that was what I chiefly longed for, at that time) but that we were liable to such a bad Cen­sure, and could not explain our selves so well, as to satisfy them to the contrary: and besides all that to be kept alive and suffer so many Tortures as they threatned us, to detect what we were utterly ignorant of, and unable to satisfy them in.

When we came to the Princes Palace, they led us thro the Guards that stood on each side with naked Scimmatars in their hands; these we expected to be our Executioners, to hew us in pieces, altho after­wards we understood it was the manner there, when captives are brought before the Prince. So soon as my Companion saw this wofull sight he turned his head about, and stared upon me with a very fright­full look, which I beleeve was the first time, and the occasion of a Frenzy, which he has been often since possessed with, and I be­leeve (if he be alive) continues with him till this day. Being come before the Prince we threw our selves down at his feet; he thereupon [Page 212] asked us, Whence we came, and to what end we were come thither? We an­swered, Dutch, and fled from Astrachan, to avoid the Cosacks, who upon our departure were about to lay siege to that City, and now come to implore your Highnesses gracious Protection. All this I hear very well (quoth the Prince) but I am certain that you are your selves Cosacs, and of that Rout which not long ago depopulated my Countrey and made Havoc of my Subjects, and now the Villain, your Master having taken in Astrachan has sent you as Spies and Explorators to visit my Towns. Our reply was, Sir, we know nothing of the Designs of the Cosacs, but served as Marriners in a Ship, which some of our Countrey-men have built for the Emperour of Moscovia. When the Prince heard that, he was some what appeased, hearing us with more attention, and that we might the better be understood, he called for some Russian Slaves, who assured him that we were no Cosaks but real Dutch, for that we had nothing of the Cosac-Dialect. Upon this the Prince turned about, and told us our Life was gran­ted us. This news was very welcom to us, but had been more wel­com if we had with one been set at liberty for we were chained seve­rally and sent away to Mahemet Sultan, the Princes Son, whose Re­siding place was near mount Ararath.

CHAP. XVIII. The Captives take their leavs of each other. The great Orchard near Tzurbag. Their Arrival at Urwan. Situation of Mount Ararat. An accidental mee­ting with some Carmelito Friars. The Author insisted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture, which with much perswasion, he promises to do. His ascent up the Mountain Ararat, to the Hermites Cell who was his Patient, which he performs in 5 days time. He undertakes and Cures the Rupture. The Copy of an Attestation given him by the said Hermite in barbarous Latin. His re­turn down.

ON the 21 dito, my Companion and I took our leaves of each other, but not without great sadness, for so soon as we were brought out, and understood that we were to go two several ways, I observed Tears run down his cheeks, which also moved me to weep, for that we were out of hopes ever to see one anothers face again in this World, neither that our Wives or Friends should ever hear from us [Page 213] or that we ever were like to be redeemed by our Friends or Countrey men being in a remote Land. Having thus taken our last Farewell of each other, I was set upon a Mule, and committed to the Charge of some Slaves and Renegados, who were to bring me to the Court of Prince Mahomet, being about 3 [ Dutch] miles from Urwan.

About Evening we came to a Village called Tzurbag seated upon a high Mountain, where we took up our lodging for that night. While we stayed here there came abundance of Women to see me, who wondred that I wore such long hair, for the Inhabitants of these Countreys (being Mahometans) always shave their Heads bare.

On the 22 betimes in the morning we set forward, and went through a great Grove of Fruit-trees, where we saw abundance of wild Swine masting of the shaken Fruit. These Fruit trees do not grow naturally of themselves here, for they have an Ordinance among them in that Countrey, That none, of whether Sex it be, shall marry, till they can prove that they have planted a Hundred Trees with their own Hands, so that they begin when they are Children to plant; which having been observed for some Ages, is the reason that this Wood is grown so wide. There are divers sorts of Fruits, as Apples, Pears, Cherries, Figgs, Almonds, Wall­nuts and others, and that in such abundance that the hundreth part is not consumed or us'd, for none are prohibited to pluck and carry away. There is also very fair Medow and Arable Ground, the Fields full of Corn, affoarding many delicate and rich Plants, both for Kitchin use, and Medicinal. Cattel is there both good and plenti­full, far surpassing ours in Europe for fatness, especially Kine & Sheep; Goats and Swine, both wild and tame, run together in innumerable Flocks, but incredible is the Plenty of Hens and Pidgeons which are brought in and sold for trifles.

On the 30th we arrived at Urwan, or Ervan, a City situated under Mount Ararat, in the Countrey of the Medes, about 65 Leagues from the Caspian Sea. The Town is not very wide, but sufficiently munited with strong walls of stone, being about the greatness of Alc­maar in North-Holland. There are in it some Persian Mosquees, and Churches, as also a Cloyster of Carmelite Friars. They use no kind of Commerce, or Merchandise, save that of Slaves, which the [Page 214] Dagestan Tartars come to buy there, and are there so cheap that a lusty well-bodied youngman is ordinarily sold for ten Crowns, as some of our Company were sold for the same price. The City Urwan is mostly inhabited by the poorer sort of Armenians; but Mount Ara­rat, by those of the Romish Faith, and other Christians.

Mount Ararat is seated just in the parting of Armenia from Media, and is reckoned under the rank of the Dagestan and Caspian Moun­tains. The Armenians call it Messina, and the Persians Agri: It is much higher than either Caucasus, or the famous Taurus, or any other Mountain in all Media, Armenia or Persia, so far as one can view. It is a blew, and dark-coloured Rock. I have found there a kind of a dark yellow Mineral, very ponderous, and sparkling; but could never learn what mettal it would have produced if melted, nor that of a sparkling Sand and Dust, which I also found here, although I brought a proof of each, which I lost, when we were taken at Sea by the English and plundered, as herafter shall be said at large. This Mountain is for the most part barren, and without Earth, and what may be further said by way of Description, the Reader will find in the Relation of my Ascent towards the Top of it.

My Masters purpose was to sell me here, but I could easily per­ceive, that they had no great mind to buy me. The same evening two Carmelite Friars came to me, and asked, If I was not a Chi­rurgeon, or, if I had any Judgment that way? I replied, No: but not satisfied with the Answer I gave them, they applyed themselves to my Patron, asking him the same Question; the one of them tel­ling him, that a Friend of his had a Rupture, and if I could perform the Cure, they would give him 50 Crowns. My Master hearing such a tinkling sum of Money promised, press'd very hard upon me to undertake the Work, promising upon Condition that I effected the Cure, he would declare me Franc. Hereat I was in a great strait, on the one hand incited by the sweet hopes of Freedom, and on the other daunted when I thought what a severe penalty I was liable to from the hands of those cruel men, if I should chance to miscarry However I took courage, and consented to take the Patient in hand trusting in the good Grace of GOD, and hoping for a lucky success which also would have come to pass, by the death of one of us three Thus I undertook the Journey, and was seven days before I came [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 215] to the Hermites Cell, travailing every day 5 Miles, JUL. 1670. which we rec­koned for a good days journey, the more, in regard that the higher we came, the steeper we found the Hill. At every 5 Miles end we [...]und a Hermitage, where we were supplyed with a Peasant and an Ass, to carry our Provision, and Wood for Fewel, because that about the midle of the Mountain it is so extreme cold, that Ice of half a nights freezing, will bear man and horse. In our Journey upwards, we passed through three sorts of clouds. The first were thick, misty and dark. The second were cold and like snow, al­though it was then perfect summer below in the Valleys, and so warm that the Grapes were very early ripe. The third sort were so cold, that we could hardly endure any longer, and thought verily that we should have grown stiff, and not able to proceed on our Jour­ney. But having now travailed 4 days, and had passed through the highest and coldest clouds, we found the Air very temperate and tolerable. On the 7 of that Moneth, we arrived at the Hermites house, which was hewen out of a Rock, the Weather being there so moderate and gentle as man can imagine, or heart can wish; nei­ther more hot than might very well be endured, nor yet more cold than was expetible and congruous to humane constitution. The sun enlivened us with thwarting beams, which were again refracted, with the refreshing gales of Wind; the Wind correcting the Sun, the Sun the Wind. The Hermite told me he had lived there 25 years, and never had seen the weather any otherwise. But on the top of the Hill, it was yet more calm, where as none can remember that the Air there did ever change, or was subject either to Wind or Rain, which is presumed to be the reason that the Ark has endured so long without being rotten.

Going into the Hermites Cell, I took a view of the Rupture, which I saw was shut forth about the bulk of a henns-egg; and with one asked him, How long he had had it? he answered, A Moneth: which gave me good encouragement, since I was sure that the Fissure was fresh, and therefore the Cure with greater facility to be effected.

Thus I undertook the work, and taking 200 fresh Hen-eggs I boy­led them hard, and made thereof an Unguent. I made also a Truss, and anointed him 4 times a day with the Oyntment causing him to ly still for a fortnight together, which done I let him rise up to see [Page 216] how he was, and found that it was sufficiently bettered: for the Rupture which he with his own hands had indeavoured to stop, by thrusting it in, and as often broke out, was now stay'd, and he told me that he could every day perceiv that it grew better. I gave him advice to keep himself a whole year in the Truss, and continue anoynting himself after the manner I did myself, which he also pro­mised to observ. When I took my leav of him, he gave me a piece of hard wood, of a dark-red colour, with a Cross, and a silver Chain which he wore about his neck, as also a Stone, which he told me he had taken from under the Ark; These Relicts he adjured me to be very carefull of, saying the real value and esteem thereof would be such, that if ever I came to Rome, and bestowed them on St. Peters Church that they would reward me with a Gift which should serve me for a maintenance so long as I lived. The Wood and the Cross I brought with me, but the stone, with some sparkling Oar were taken from me when the English took our Ship. The Hermite was born at Rome, and of very good Parentage, his Father being one of the most eminent Citizens there, who upon his Death-bed charged his Son, To retire himself from the Society of Men and betake himself to the Mountain Ararat, there to spend his days in a Heremitical Life. The Son in obedience to this his Father's Will, took upon him this Journey and manner of Life, where he had then been 25 years, living there in great Tranquillity and with more contentment than he could do in the World of Rome. Besides those Relicts already mentioned he gave me a Testimonial in Writing, to evidence to the Curious my being there, which [ after a Monkish Elegancy] runs thus:

True it is the Autograph is but barbarous stuff, void of the true Latin Idiotisms, yet we thought good to give it you as it is, rather than to put it in a style more proper, or give it a better elegancy. It may be thus verbally Paraphras'd:

[Page 218]The same day I took my leave of the Heremite, and set for­ward on my Journey to Urwan in the Valley, accompanied as be­fore in my going up with an Ass and his Driver: He takes his leave of the Heremi­te. but the way I found more uneasy to travail in coming down, especially when we came in the cold clouds, where it was so slippery that I expected every moment to tumble head-long down. Coming still lower we found it worse, for it rained hard, which with the unevenness of the Rocks made our way very dangerous. At last after much labour I got down, and can well assure the Reader that their Opinion is not true, who suppose this Mount to be innaccessible.

CHAP. XIX. The Author put in Chains again: He is insisted upon to renounce the Christian Faith and become Mahometan; Divers means to that end put in practise by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths. The Author taken out of Chains. He is sold to a Persian. The Situation of the Caspian Sea. Great Whirl­pools in the Bay of Gilan. A discourse about the Silk-trade. A further De­scription of the Caspian Sea, &c.

SO soon as I was arrived at Urwan and entred the House of my Patron Mehemet, he gave order to secure me with 2 Chains, for he feared that I would make my escape, by running into the Tur­kish Jurisdiction. One of these Chains was light and tolerable, but the other very massy and ponderous, insomuch that to bear the Chain alone, might seem to be Slavery enough. This Condition brought me into a deep Melancholy, even to death, not only that I should be­come a Slave, but that my Patrons Incredulity should be the occa­sion of such Affliction to me, as also that he should so much vio­late his Word, when having promised to let me go free again, on condition he received that money upon my effecting the Cure, which the Heremite caused to be honestly paid; for had I not trusted to that his promise, I should have prevailed with the Heremite so far as to purchase my liberty, since the Slave-market is there very low. Besides all this he continually wrought upon me to renounce Chri­stianity, with many fair Promises, as, that if I would be Circum­cised [Page 119] he would give me, two of the fairest Damosels in the Countrey for Wives; but this his proffer I refused without making much stu­dy in framing of an Answer, desiring him rather to severe my head from my body, than to urge me to what my Conscience would not dispence with: yet not satisfied with this Reply, he persisted on, and told me that he would give me so many Acres of Ground, be­sides Orchards and Slaves: yet all he could imagine to perswade me to embrace the Turkish Faith, would not move me so much as to give him the lest hopes: insomuch that for that time he broke off without giving me any sharp Language. Shortly after he sent 2 fair Girls, who at first entrance saluted me very friendly, and begin­ning with a trifling discourse, they proceeded on to more serious matters, and consequently proffered themselves to me as Wives, making use of a Russian Slave to be their Interpreter: and to make their request prove the more effectual, they began to stroak me, and play a hundred wanton tricks to allure me, which when I perceiv­ed, pray'd them to desist and not to trouble me any longer, for it was against my Conscience to violate the Laws of Christianity, which forbid Polygamy, having already a Wife by whom I had two Children, and although I were in the most remote parts of the World, I should not alienate my Love and Troth, by mar­rying of another so long as she was alive. To this they made an­swer, That I should never see either my own Countrey or Rela­tions again, and that many thousands would be glad of what was proffered me, and therefore willed me to accept of it, lest I should afterwards repent when it could not be revoked, &c. After they had used a few such like Arguments they left me. Hardly were they got out but my Patron came in, who fell to work again with greater, and more specious promises than before, as. That if I would be­come a Musulman [or True Beleever] he would advance me to the Dignity of a Commander in the Guards. This perplexed me very much when I saw him so earnest, thinking that if he could not get his will by fair means, he would proceed to rigour, and being absolute Lord and Soveraign, as well of the Countrey, as of my Person, would force me to embrace the Mahometan Religion, how­ever I had already stood out so much Torture, that being a litle hardned to it I feared it so much the less: but gave him a short [Page 212] Answer; to this Effect, Sir, All the fair promises you have already, and that you may hereafter make shall not have that efficacy with me, as to make me renounce my Faith, for I had rather dispatch my self, than to im­brace Mahometanism. He hearing me say so did not for that time press me much more.

On the 9 ^th. dito I continued still in Chains, at what time the young Damosels that had been with me before, were sent again, who, as they did the last time, endeavoured to perswade me to turn Mahometan; neither did they desist to use all manner of Allurements they could devise, to entice me to ly with them, for so they thought that if I had done that, I must either become Turk, or dy a mi­serable Death; They further did what they could to put me in mind of my present misery, and told me that I must never expect to en­joy any better than what I saw before my eies; and in the conclu­sion of all, told me that they wondred at the Folly and Vanity of the Christians who were so strictly tied to Monogamy, or only to marry one Wife, when as the Mahometans might have as many as they listed, or thought themselves capable to maintain.

My Master altho he was a Prince yet thought it no dishonour to trade in Commerce: but the chief thing he had which brought him up the most Revenues, were the Baths which he kept; having som almost in every City, as well in his own Jurisdiction as in Persia and other Countreys, whereof those were the most considerable, at Derbent, at Scamachy, and at Ispahan, which brought him in a vast sum of Money yearly.

The reason why the Baths are there in such esteem, and so much frequented by persons of all Ranks and Degrees, is not on­ly their affected Cleanliness, in which they surpass all others: but as well thro Superstition: for that after the use of their Wives, they are to bath, being till then reputed unclean, and may not enter the Mosques: and this both sexes are injoyned to upon such Cases by the Alcoran. A man among them may not ly with his wife from Conception to her Delivery: which is probably instituted as a Prae­cept in the Alchoran to make those Countreys more populous; for so one Man is capable of generating many Children in one year. The Baths are frequented from Break of day to the Setting of the Sun. From morning till noon the Men bath, and from noon till night the Women, so taking it by Turns.

[Page 221]On the 10 ^th. came my Patron to visit me and asked me how I did, and if I had taken good Courage: I answered him that I had no great occasion to thank him for my Welfare, since he did all he could to make me miserable, and contrary to that Honesty and Truth, which the Turks boasted of, he had shown me an odd example: Withall telling him that he had little rea­son to chain me so fast, and make my Slavery the greater when as he had promised me my Freedom, upon the receipt of the Money which was paid him. Upon this he seemed to be a little moved to compassion and commanded that the greater Chain should be taken off: Now when I observed that my rea­soning had a litle prevalency with him I pursued on in my Argument, with these, or the like Words, Sir, Is it not sufficient that I am your Slave? why then must I be kept in Chains, when as o­thers have their liberty? If it be so that you fear I should go from you, Know this, That you can not keep me longer than I list: for I can at once part with my Life and take leav of this miserable Bondage, which if you persist to use me so inhumanly I am resolved to do. This I could perceiv wrought in him no small change, for he was naturally very covetous, and would have lost the price of a Slave. Besides that, it is a Maxim of their Law, that if any person do any way murther himself, the House is to be accursed and pulled down to the Ground. My Patron considering what the Issue of this might be, altho I had not the lest thoughts to lay violent hands upon my self. he therefore to prevent the worst sold me to one Hadsy Mahomet Sala, Mr I. Struys sold to a Persian. a Persian for 25 Abbas, that was about 30 Shillings sterl. which is but a small sum in comparison to the ordinary Market price of Argiers, and other places in Barbary. My new Patron spoke the Russian Tongue very well, by which means we came to understand one another the better: for he used me more kindly than the other, and would of­ten bid me have courage, saying, he would go with me to Ispahan where there were many English, Dutch and other Europeans, and probably those that would buy me off his hands, and so set me at Liber­ty again, which gave me no small encouragement to do my utmost to please him.

On the 12 dito, I went with my new Master to Derbent, and sai­led with him several times over the Caspian Sea: his principal dealing [Page 222] being in Crap, which with several other Roots used in Dying, grow there in great abundance. He had also a small Bark of his own, wherein he transported his own Commodities: This said Vessel alwayes lay in a Bay about half a League from the City, and thither his Slaves alwaies brought the Wares; for about Derbent it is very rocky and unsafe for Vessels to lie at Anchor, in case of Storm or tempestuous Weather. But in the said Bay is very good anchorage, at 6, 7 and 8 Fathom Water, and a clay ground with Shells. The Coast from Baynak to Masanderan is altogether sandy, and here and there low land, where appear the Tops of the Dagestan Hills: between those two Coasts it is all a long very good anchorage, there being many fair Roads able to receive Ships of a greater burthen than are usually built for this Sea; there are also many fair Towns, built for the most part at the mouths of Rivers, and have many Vessels and Shipping belonging to them, as well for Traffic and Transportation of Merchandizes, as for the Fishing trade: for this Sea is very plentiful of Fish, and brings up the King of Persia an incredible sum of Money yearly, receiving from some as Toll, and from others as Contribution. In the Bay of Gilan are 2 great Whirl-pools, Great VVhirl-pools- in the Bay of Gilan. for which the Persians are very fearfull in sailing from their own Coasts to Gilan. The Water in these Whirpools is hurried about with an incredible violence and makes such a noise, that if the Weather be still, they may be heard at 5 or 6 leagues distant. It is my opinion that these are the Pas­sages whereby this great Lake has a subterranean communication with the Euxin, or som other Sea, for it is well known that it receivs 84 huge Rivers, besides the Wolga, which is reputed the 3 ^d River of the World for greatness, and hither do all the Floods of the Persian and Tartarian Rivers hasten, as it were to their Cen­ter, with an admirable celerity, so that when we sailed we al­ways made a calculation how far we would be carried off in thwarting the stream, and so bore up towards the Coast, as well for shortning our Course, as to avoid the Whirpools, where if any Vessel be brought she must inevitably perish. The best and most commodious Shipping for this Sea, is a Flat-bottom, from 80 to a hundred Tuns.

Upon a time it happened that my Master and I fell into a [Page 213] discourse about Trading and Commerce, making a paralel be­tween their way of merchandizing and ours, where among other Words, I told him That If I were once again at Liberty, I could make a good Advantage, and did not doubt but that in a short time I should return with a Ship full of Hollands Commodities: upon which he asked me, If I was so rich then? I answered No; But if I came safe into my own countrey some or other would intrust me with a Cargo for those parts, being now well acquainted with the Conveniency of the Caspian Sea. My Pa­tron hearing, that thought that I might probably be som way in­strumental to do him service and that night discoursed som Ar­menians about me who dealt in Silk: upon which they desired to see me. My Master having appointed them a day, I went along with him, where one of the most eminent asked me if I could speak Italian, and if I was of Amsterdam, or if I knew such a Merchant there? I answered him in Italian, That I was of Amsterdam, but did not know the Gentleman he named, yet was acquainted with seve­ral there who dealt in Silk. He then entred into a discourse which was much after this manner: ‘That the only way to Trade with Holland, was to bring over, Lead, Quicksilver, Cloth, Serges, Says and all kinds of Low-Countrey Commodities and Manufa­ctures, which would be very marketable at Derbent, Scamachy and Ardobil and might produce good profit, so that all the Staple of Silk might be brought to Holland. and, That all Goods whate­ver might be more conveniently transported over the Caspian Sea, and so up the Wolga, bringing it down to Archangel, and so for Holland: which would not prove so tedious by far, as to bring it over Land to Smyrna, where by the way so much Danger and so many Duties were met withall; and then from Smyrna to run the Hazard of the Barbary Corsairs thro the Medi­terranean and the Spanish Sea: besides unreasonable Duties that are imposed by the Turks, which probably the Czar of Moscovia would not set so high, to draw a Traffic of such importance thro his Ju­risdiction, &c. That Gilan, Scirwan and other adjacent Provinces bordering upon the Caspian Sea, could deliver upwards of 50000 Bales of Silk every year. Bocharen also affoards pretious Furrs and the East Countrey good plenty of Segrine-Leather, Saffron, Rhubarb and other precious Druggs.’ This was the sum of all the Discourse [Page 224] we had for that time, but not much hopes were then given me of gaining my Freedom, by assisting them in a Trade to Europe.

A further Descrip­tion of the Cas­pian Sea.The Caspian Sea may more properly be termed a Lake, were it not that its Greatness and Saltness gave it the name of the latter, for it is envi­roned on every side with the Main Continent, and receives 85 great Ri­vers (as has been said before) which nevertheless do not make it swell any higher upon extraordinary Rains and Tempest, which the more confirms what I have already mentioned about the two famous Whirlpools. What concerns the Breadth and Greatness of the Caspian Sea, as also its' Scituation, Bays, Rivers, Creeks, Islands, Towns and their distance of Bearing, they are sufficiently noted in the Card hereto annexed, which I have with great diligence composed, part­ly by my own experience and partly by the help of some Armeni­an Marriners, who were well acquainted herewith. Its length which is reckoned from Wolga to Astrabath, North and South is computed to be 129 Leagues, and from Tarku to the River Jemla which is accounted the Breadth, being East and West, is about 60 Leagues For 6, 7, 8 and 9 Leagues from the Coast, the Water is somtime fresh and somtime brakkish, and from 12 to 50 fathom Anchor ground, but the Sea is within fresh and out of sounding. It is also called the Hyrcan and the Salt Sea. It has many Boughts, In­lets, Creeks and Angles: the Bay of Gilan tends above 38 Leagues inwards, taking its beginning at the Cape of Scabaran and reaches to Sengar Hasam. This Sea is environed mostly on the East and North with a sandy and barren ground, having also many Quarries of Mar­ble and Alabastre. On the East side of this Sea is a Noble River, not much inferior to the Wolga, which river parts the Calmuc-from the Gwin-Tartars but the Countrey on each side being inhabited with a wild People, using among themselvs no kind of Traffic, and therefore un­safe for others to adventure themselvs. My Master Mahomet Sala once sailing past the mouth of this River, I pressed him hard to sail up to view the Conveniency and take an account of the Quality of the Countrey. But he told me, he had a greater esteem for his Life, Ship and Goods, than to satisfy my curiosity about a busine [...] of so mean importance.

This Sea affoards great plenty of all kinds of Fish, and is farmed of the King of Persia from April to September, for a vast sum of Mo­ney [Page 225] and that for a certain Distance from the Coast which is set off with Stakes, within which bounds none are to fish upon pain of Death, but without every one has the permission to fish; yet without Fish is very rare except in some litle Shoals here, and there, and those only at some Seasons, which are uncertain. After the Farm is expired it is also free within the Stakes for every one to fish. Here is an incredible plenty of Salmon, as also Carps, Breams, Sturgeon and other Fish, held with us in great esteem, and those in general both larger and fatter than those taken on the Coast of Holland, or any other Sea or Water in Europe that I know. Carps when come to their full growth are sometimes above 4 foot long, but those are not so de­licate as when they are less: Here also many strange Fishes by us unknown, and I beleev most of them proper only to this Sea. A­mongst those strange kinds is one, which by reason of the dis­proportion of his Head with his Body our Countreyment at Astra­chan call, Dickkop [ Thickpate] But by the Persians, Nachay, that is, Devourer. This Fish is of a more than ordinary strength and somtimes will overturn a small Boat with a stroak of his Tail.

CHAP. XX. A Description of Derbent: it's Walls. The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins. Di­vers Watch-towers. Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent. Their Slave-Market. The Author sold again. His Patron married with a Polish Wo­man and runs into Danger of his Life. The Intention of his Patroness in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her. Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent. How they made their escape from the Tartars. The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hol­landers. A Device put in practise to set one of the Authors Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own. Brak makes his escape.

DErbent the first City under the Jurisdiction of the King of Per­sia on the Caspian Sea, De­scription of Der­bent. lies in 41 degr. 50 min. northerly La­titude. This City lies longwise East and West from the Sea side to the Land, and is according to computation about 2 [ English] miles long. One side thereof lies so near to the Sea that the Waves [Page 226] beat against the Walls, and in a Storm or tempestuous Wea­ther the Surges rise over the Walls. This is also reckoned as a Barrier against the Irruption of the Tartars and other Savages, being the only place on all that Coast for many miles together, where they can come ashoar, for the Shoar is there naturally se­cured with a steep Bank and wholly inaccessible. Wherefore this City is not improperly called Derbent, which in their Lan­guage imports as much as The Kingdoms Key, Der signifying a Key, and Bent a Kingdom, or Countrey: and so the City Gammeron on the Indian Coast is called Bender, which is the same Word with trans­position of the Syllables, and a little variation of the Dialect.

This Town is very strongly munited with a Stone-Wall, and as some say, was built by Alexander the Great, who had here his Residence for som time, althô there doth not any Building re­main of his, save only the Wall on the South side, and the For­tress: but all the Fortifications on the North were built by the famous Nauschirwan, King of the Medes; having no other Foun­dation than a solid Rock. The Walls both on the North and the South side are so broad that Horses and Waggons may ride all along, and the Stones are of a hard rock, brought hither from a Hill not far distant from the Town, being all equally 6 foot Square. On the Wall of Alexander [for it still bears his name] is an oblong Stone having an ancient Inscription in old Syriac and Ara­bic Characters, which none now a days can read.

Der­bent how divided.The City Derbent is divided into 3 parts, The uppermost Ward or Quarter, stands on a rising Ground and has a Fortress furnished with Brass-Cannon; and at that time when I was there and since the Uproar of the Cosacs it has bin Strengthned with a Garri­son of 1000, or 1200 Soldiers, and in this Quarter is the Sultans Court. The Midle Ward is inhabited by Persians, but the Build­ings go mostly to decay. The Lowest Ward is about 2000 pa­ces long, but this part is only tilled and used for Gardens; and as they say has been heretofore inhabited by Greeks, bearing still the name of Schaher Iunan or, City of the Greeks.

Old Ruins about Derbent.Above Derbent appear the Ruins of a Wall which reached from thence to the Necropont, or Euxin Sea: which has been a work of an incredible Charge and Labour. In som places the said Wall [Page 227] appears very plain, and is about four Foot thick. Round about this City are also divers stone Redoubts, whereof Four are furnished with Ammunition and a Garrison of Soldiers suitable to the Occasion of the Times. In the Countrey round about are also the Ruins of ma­ny strong Castles, insomuch that it plainly appears in what esteem this Place has bin with the Median and Persian Monarchs in times past. Walck Towers about Derbent. Not far from this City are also som Watch-towers of Wood, which are raised exceeding high so that they can with ease descry the ap­proachment of an Enemy in time of War. On that side of the Town which faces the Countrey are many Sepulchrets, or Tombs, som of an oblong form, and others semicircular, being in breadth about a mans length and hollowed, so that a Man may easily ly in them. In this great Sepulchre was in times past a famous Battel fought, between Cassan King of the Medes, and the Dagestan Tartars, where the former had a notable overthrow, with the loss of several Thousand men, and the principal Heros and Leaders were buried in those Tombs. Be­tween this place and the Sea is also another Plat of Ground, environed with a high wall, wherein are 40 Tombs, under which are so many Persian and Median Princes interred and made sacred to Memory. Upon the Walls are several Flags pitched, and by each an old Man to beg an Alms of such as out of Devotion and a Religious Zeal come to visit this place, as it is throughout all Persia held very meritorious to visit the Sepulchres and Graves of the Deceased. This Superstition besides that of Bathing is all the Ceremonies and Rules which their Religion prescribes the Women, who receiv their Directions and are injoined by their Parents and Husbands what to do, being seclu­ded out of the Mosquees.

Within Derbent live no Christians but altogether Mahometans, ex­cept a few Iews who boast themselvs to be descended from the house of Benjamin: these commonly follow base and dishonorable Traffic, as buying of Prize-goods and Booty taken at Sea, which the Dagestan Tartars bring thither to market: Great market for Sla­ves. The rest of the Inhabitants likewise trade in buying and selling of Slaves that being the main and almost only Merchandize they deal in, which they buy of the Dagestan Plagia­ries and send all over Persia, making an incredible gain thereof. Those that are brought hither for Slaves are very unhappy, for they are no more looked upon than an unreasonable Animal or Bruit: and when [Page 228] they are about buying, they pull of their Cloaths and grope them all over as if it were a Swine or a Calf. Besides their low esteem they have for Slaves as to their Persons they are very unkind and void of Mercy, so that were it not for the Loss of so much money very few of those wretched caitiffs would die a natural Death; Those people being by nature very prone to Anger, and besides that too jealous to live upon Earth, thinking that if a Slave do but smile or cast a friendly look toward one of their Wives that something extraordinary must be in the case; althô I had never reason to complain of my Patron for any such thing: but one that lived in the neighbourhood was much ad­dicted to that inquietude and restless humour. The bed where I lay was upon the Top of the house for coolness sake, and could very well see into my neighbours Court, or Garden, where his Wives walked and played together being undrest. The man saw me several times and I him; but he not knowing how to prevent it, went and told my Master that I hurled Stones among his Wives, which was not true, for considering what circumstances I was under and sensible of the Condition of a Slave in those Places, it had been a Token of the great­est imprudence in the World to hazard my self so far as to offend such men who were both void of Reason and had my Life in their hands. My Master told him he did not beleev that I would do any such thing, Well, replies the other, take your Slave away, or, I shall bring him down for you. Upon this my Patron warned me to take heed of looking down any more, not knowing what might come of it. I was very curious to know what course the Infidel would take in hand, to fetch me down, and accordingly went down to the old Place, where I saw se­veral long Hand-guns ready levelled and cock'd, laying out at the Window, which made me in all hast to turn about and out of the way, but was no sooner turned before I heard him fire, althô it did not the mischief he hoped and expected. The Inhabitants, as was said before, are in this place somthing currish-natured, but the Persians in general do not use their Slaves so unkindly, as the Turks, which I could well observ the time I was on the Galleys, nor yet so inhumanly as they do at Argiers, Tripoli, Tunis, Salee, and other maritim Towns in Barbary, according to the universal report given by those that fall into the hand of these cruel Men; for here when they do use them so hard, it is more to make them renounce their Faith and be­come [Page 229] Mahometans, than innate Cruelty. Most proud they are and lofty, boasting in their honorable descent and Pedigrees from their ancient Nobility, famous in History, and renowned from the Monar­chy of the Medes. The Soldiery, which they call Kissil-basschen, are very unruly, and take the lest word that one can speak for an affront, yea, such is the aw they have gained of the People, that they dare not speak without great reverence; sure I am they have taught me silence, since they are accustomed to be the Interpreters of other Mens Words, and are as apt to misconstrue what is said, whence consequent­ly they fall to blows.

On the 30 ^th. of Iuly my Patron brought me again to Market, The Au­thor sold again. where he sold me to one Hadzi Biram Ali, A very rich Merchant in Jewels. The same Hadzi Biram had 9 Wives, 5 at Derbent, and 4 at Scamachy. The Chief of these 9 was a Polish Gentlewoman by birth, and a Chris­tian, but her Father was an Amsterdammer, by name Iohn Flusius, who had a Command of Horse under Casimire K. of Poland, and married there a Gentlewoman of that Countrey by whom he had 4 Children. Upon a time, when these People lived in the Countrey, it happened that the Tartars made an irruption into Poland, and among many others carried away my said Patronesse, being then a Damosel of 12 years old, and sold her for a Slave. She was a Gentlewoman of a very fair com­plexion, and a well proportioned Body at that time, for which reason alone (I suppose) my Patron bought her and made her his Wife, promoting her shortly after above the rest.

It was my Masters custom to bath himself once a day in the Sea, His Pa­tron in danger of his Life. which the Inhabitants of those Parts do account very wholsom, and his custom was alwaies to take me with him to hold his Horse till he had don. It happened that one time he went a litle farther in than was usual, and lighting accidentally in a Whirl-pool he was forcibly overturn'd and not able to recover himself. I seeing him then immerge made all the hast I could to get him out: and coming to the Place could not get a sight of him for it was as I supposed in a Quicksand: but at last, by accident I felt his head with my Foot, which I endea­vored to take hold of with my hand, and at last got him out, brought him to the Land and lay him over a Stone, till abundance of water came gushing out of his Mouth, but no appearance of Life was left in him, when I thought he was rid of the most part of the Water, I [Page 230] set him upon the Horse and got up my self behind him, in the mean while he continued bleeding at the Nose and Ears, and so weak that I had much ado to hold him upright upon the Horse After he came home he was put to bed, which he kept for 14 days together before he recovered his Strength. It was no small cause of Joy to me that things fell so well out, as that he lived to de­clare the true cause of this dismal accident: whereas if he had died, 't would certainly have cost me my Life, among those brui­tish, furious and unreasonable People, especially in consideration of of the Condition I was in, not only a Stranger both to their Re­ligion and Manners as well as their Countrey and Persons, but likewise a Slave, for whose Death and Slaughter a man is no more accountable than for the slender Value and Market price; whilst on the contrary it fell out that I got the Credit of saving his Life, and his Benevolence ever after for an act of such merit, having run the jeopardy of my own Person. So much kindness he professed for me, that he promised to take me with him to Ispahan, where he said he would bestow me upon some of my own Nation.

This Motion liked me exceeding well, but my chief Patroness who spoke very good Low-dutch advised me to the Contrary, say­ing, My Husband, your Lord, 'tis true goes for Ispahan, but from thence he intends to go on a Pilgrimage to Meccha, and bestow 200000 Gil. on the Sepulchre of Mahomet, for which Gift he and his Son Hadzy Kan, will be canonized and registred among the Saints, for a perpetual memory of themselvs and Honor of their Posterity, and now you are not sensible what Danger hangs over your head in regard of your Religion. This said; she told me if I would vow Silence she would impart me a Secret, which per­haps would be of more importance than that, and without doubt I should judge it more worthy of Acceptance. I promised her I would not detect her Council, be what it would; but for accep­ting it desired her not to injoyn me till I had heard and well considered of it. To this she replies. See if you can prevail with your Patron to excuse you on this Journey, or if you can counterfeit with Dex­terity, feign your self sick: To which if he gives his assent, we will trip off together, after he has been a few weeks upon his Journey, and being you are well acquainted with the Caspian Sea we, will take our Bark with us. I have means enough to Maintain us in any part of the World so long as we [Page 231] live, I have at present in my Custody a Casket of Jewels worth 300000 gild at lest, besides a sum of 10000 Ducats in Gold. I prethee then let's not lose this opportunity but away with our own Bark; and I hope that we shall in 8 or 10 days be in Russia, from whence we can go forward to Holland, and if your wife be not alive we shall marry, if not I shall seek up my Re­lations at Amsterdam, supposing my Fathers Brother may be still alive. To this I replyed, Most gracious and worthy Madam, what you propose is very well, and what I could freely embrace and would willingly undertake to manage, But Madam, are you not sensible that Astrachan is at present under hands of the Cosacs, and the Caspian Sea full of Pyrats, how then may we promise our selvs a safe Arrival in Russia? Well, quoth she, Do you think that Astrachan will be still in tenure of the Rebells? no, without doubt, we shall speedily hear that the Czar will come down with a great Army and destroy that Vermin. &c, Hereupon she showed me an incredi­ble Treasure of Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies and other Precious Stones.

These Proposals I must confess gave me work enough to study upon day night, and certainly had not Astrachan then bin in the hand of the Cosacs I had taken it upon me, not doubting, but to have good success, being able enough to pilot a Vessel from thence to the Wolga, for I was very well acquainted with the Coasts, but because of the before mentioned difficuly was fain to refuse her offer. I could observe that the Lady was som way disaffected to her husband, which I presumed was som certain Jealousy; for my Patron had bought not long before 2 Georgian Girls for Slaves, the one of 11, and the other of 12 years old, with whom he lay by Turns, which was no small trouble to his Wife, who was her self not above 26 years of Age, and therefore very unwilling to be a Widdow with a living husband.

On the 22 came two of our Ships-company to Derbent, to wit, Cornelius de Vries, the Gunner, and Peter Arentsz of Schevelingen. These had been taken in Boynak, near the Scemkal, and had betaken them­selvs to flight, being followed by some Tartars to the Gate of Der­bent; where they were rescued by a Soldier, who spoke the Russi­an Tongue very well, which Soldier seeing them so hotly pursued, and the Tartars close at their heels, interposed himself between them, and asked ours, Who they were? who repled, They were [Page 232] Dutch, and had Letters for the Sultan. Whereupon the Soldier tur­ning to the Tartars bade them see what they did, for that those men had Letters for the Sultan: and so they got free from the Tar­tars, but were suddenly carried before the Sultan, who so soon as they were admitted asked them, What Countreymen they were? They answered Hollanders. Then he asked for the Letters which he was informed they had for him, upon which they fell down u­pon their knees humbly begging Forgiveness, saying, That we have said, how that we had Letters for the Sultan, Great and Mighty Prince, we cannot deny, for most true it is; but that was only an Invention to se­cure and release our Persons from the Tartars, that pursued us to within the Persian Jurisdiction: Wherefore, Great Sir, vouchsafe to have Compassion upon us, for we are those very people that fled from Astrachan upon the approaching of the Cosacs, and have been unfortunately Stranded on the Dagestan Coast, where we were plundered, beat and made Slaves by the In­habitants, and since continued in miserable Servitude under the Scemkal, and therefore have made bold to seek Protection under your Highness. They told him moreover how that they had been 3 days and 2 nights by the Way; Travelling only by night and hiding themselvs by day, lest they should be detected, and retaken, as they had sure­ly been at the Gate, if the Soldier had not shown them such a a Favour. The Sultan freely pardoned them and sent them to a House where he had ordered they should have abode and mainte­nance, till they were otherwise provided; for this Prince, has ever been favourable to our Nation. But these two fearing that their Living so would cost them too dear, and that one time or another they must pay for all, they removed into a Carwansera, for so they call an Inn or Tavern, where they took no care for Diet, being well supplied by the continual concourse of people that came thither, as well Indians as Persians. The Sultan also promised to write to the King about the Redemption of the rest of the Captiv Slaves, and as much as in him lay to further the same. Certain it is he did as kindly for our Countrey men as might be expected from him, when as the Brother of the Scemkal came to demand them as Fugitivs, and he refused to let them go, for that they were now in Derbent, and that the King had understood how unkindly they had dealt with those that were his Allies, and with those with [Page 233] whom his Subjects had a great correspondence, as to matter of Commerce: Insomuch that Aly, the Tartar, returned without ob­taining what he came for, and the Slaves they had still were for this reason more severely used than before, and kept with more strictness, since by that they were sensible, that if they could but make their escape to Derbent they were protected.

So soon as I understood that P. Arents and De Vries were arri­ved at Derbent I pray'd my Patron to let me go to visit them, which he granted. So soon as I came to them, I begun to en­quire of their manner of Escaping, and of their present Condi­dition, which they related from the beginning to the end of all. My Patron was also curious to see them and came himself in per­son: Upon which I did bethink my self of a Stratagem to redeem my Companion Els Pietersz, who was still at Boynak. I told my Ma­ster then that I had still a Son in the Hands of Prince Osmin, and looking towards the Gunner I gave him a wink with the Eie, that he should assert it, which when my Patron asked him he did: he therefore sent to redeem him with intention to keep us both, but the Party sent, who was a Russian and a Renegado, brought us news that he was gone within Land, which sadly troubled me: For, had I got him to Derbent I could have brought him to Ispahan where there was more apparency and likelyhood of obtaining Liberty than among the obscure Tartars.

Meanwhile I went dayly to visit the Gunner and Peter Arentsz, and once finding them very heartless and Melancholic I did all I could to comfort them. How, said I, can you be so sad being free, and I who am a Slave still keep a good heart? Be not so dejected, for the Persians will som time or other take you with their Caravans to Ispahan, and so you may get to Gameron, and thence be transported for the Indies, by which means you will be brought home, &c. They told me also that the rest of the Company were at liberty and without Chains, that they had also resolved to flee together, but judged themselvs aswell unsafe at Derbent, which they had intended for their Asylum, saying, That they should come thither soon enough, when they should be sold at the Slave-Market; and certainly they were not much over-bur­thened, for the greatest Task they had was only to hew wood for Fewel and other uses in the Princes House: and if my companion [Page 234] and I had but had the same opportunity they had to be unchain'd we should not have dallied long about a Resolution, whether to stay or betake our selvs to flight, for it was not above 12 [ En­glish[ miles from Derbent. We often contrived to break or file the Chain in sunder, but the Links were so massy that we durst not at­tempt lest we should not perform it at one time. They were also taken by the Dagestan-Tartars, which are reputed the more mercifull, but we by the Calmucs, the one being under the Osmin and the o­ther under the Scemkal. C. Brak was sold by the Scemkal for thrée years, after the expiration of which time his Patron was to have him again: His Wife whom the Prince had ravished, was also taken from him and made use by the said Prince for a Concubine, being attired in Princely Habit, and had much favour shown her. Brak therefore intending to make his escape, intimated his Design to his Wife; who would by no means assent to the matter, because of her Child, and told him further that if he did offer to go that she would detect the matter to the Prince. To this he replied, that inasmuch as she was taken from him they were never like to come together again, and that he probably for that reason should be carried farther within Land, where he should be out of all hopes of ever being redeemed; whereas on the contrary if ever he came to Derbent that there he should not only himself be free, but also seek a mean to get her redeemed, yet all this was but in vain, for she would not hear of it; insomuch that he was fain to run away without her knowledge; but what then became of him, and whether he was retaken by some others, or is dead, I could never yet be so happy as to know. As to his Flight, we were well assured, for his Patron sent to us at Derbent to enquire after him, but had a very unwelcom Answer: and the Sultan, to hearing that such a Person was come to seek for them, gave order to ap­prehend him, and so continued him Captiv till he proved that he only came to seek one that he had bought for ready Money, and was not of Intention to meddle with any body else; upon which the Sultan, ordered him enlargement.

CHAP. XXI. The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent. The Author and his company assailed by Robbers two several times. The kind nature of his Patron. They travel to Scamachy. The Hill Barmach. The Pit of Naph­tha. Arrival at Scamachy. A Description of that City. A great Earth-quake at Scamachy. Abundance of men misfortunatly killed. The Author meets with 2 Franciscan Friars: A rehearsal of some part of their Discourse: their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan. Advice given him by his Patron. He comes first into the Service of the Polish Ambassadour.

ON the 29 were sent out about 50 Slaves together with some other free persons to hew Wood in the Countrey, amongst which my Patron sent me also. We took our way o­ver the Mountains, having with us two Carts, with 5 Oxen, 2 Asses and a Horse, we had also several Renegados with us. All the Company went into the Wood, and fell to work leaving me alone to look to the Carts and Provision. After they had been about 3 hours at work, I espied a Troop of about 300 Men coming towards us, and thinking by the hast they made towards us, that they were Robbers, I therefore called out to them in the Wood, to give them Notice that they might keep together. When I saw them come within Bow-shot of me I ran away as fast as I could drive, which they seeing me, sent a Shaft or two, but they did not hit me. Having entred the Wood I met our Company coming out who at first stoutly resisted, but finding that the Robbers fell on with a greater violence, and exceeded us both for Arms and Number of Men, they thought good to re­treat with as much hast as they could. We left here 12 dead, a­mongst which was a Polish Renegado; besides these that were kil­led we had 20 wounded, and lost all our Baggage, with Carts, Oxen, Asses, &c. and were fain to return so home. For this reason is it very perillous to hew wood or to pass those mountains upon any other Occasion, being the Rendevouz of the Banditti and Tartars, who notwithstanding all the Indeavours which the King doth, by sending of Troops down to expell them, cannot be driven out, for [Page 236] when they perceiv that any Forces are sent out against them, they run into Caves and holes in the Hills and Woods: They are also very well disciplin'd and as well arm'd, the greatest part thereof consisting in deserting Soldiers. And by reason those of Derbent must have all their Fewel and Timber from this Place, and the work put upon the Slaves, it happens that every year a great number of those miserable sort of men are either dispatched or wounded.

The next day I was sent up into the Countrey to a place where my Patron kept his Cattle, which I was to look after and drive them up and down where I found the best Pasturage. The Au­thor taken and carried away by Robbers. When the Sun was gon down and I driving the Cattle to their House, I met 3 Robbers, who took three Cows away with them, and tied my hands behind my back, so drawing me along; yet it was not long before we met with 8 Gentlemen of Derbent, som whereof knew me, being frequently at my Masters house. These therefore released me and retook the Beasts, so that I came safe home: for which kindness my Master gave them a Present, I suppose, of more value than what I was sold for to him. Unspeakable was the kindness of my Pa­tron that he had for me, for althô my Work was a litle servile and Slavish, yet my Bed and Table was Lordly; and whatsoever I did whether well or ill, he always took it in good part, and would after that time, never suffer me to go abroad to do any work, saying, that he beleeved that I was born under som malevolent Planet. To be brief I found my daily Task so easy, and my usage so comfor­table, that were it not for the name of a Slave and that to a Mahome­tan, I could not have lived better abroad in any Place of the World, having litle or no care upon my head.

Their Iourney to Sca­machy.About this time my Patron made preparation to take a Journey for Scamachy, there to repair his Houses which were thrown down with an Earth-quake in the year 1667. On the first of September we were ready and set forward with a Caravan of 1800 Horses, and a great number of Camels, Dromedaries, Asses and other Beasts of Carriage, having in Company several Thousands of Men. The first day we passed over three Rivers, to wit Kurgani, Kostar, and Sambur; whereof the second is the greatest, running thrô the Moun­tains of Elbur. This River divides it self into 5 branches, or arms, broad but shallow, and runs over a stony Ground. The next day [Page 237] we travailed 8 [ Dutch] miles further and came to Koctep a large vil­lage, where we took our rest for that night. SEPT. 1670. By the way we saw a goodly Tomb erected to the memory of a Persian Saint, The Inha­bitants of this Town and the Countrey about it are called Padar in their Language. They are much addicted to stealth and Robbery, so that we were fain to keep a narrow watch over them the time we lay in the Town, which was not above 8 hours. Their Houses are but little, built square and covered on the Top with Earth, not excee­ding 6 or 7 foot high above ground, but are as deep below, as they are high.

On the 3 of the same moneth we set forward and travailed through many great villages, amongst which was a very fair one called Nisa­bath, or Naysabath, which I guess lies about 41 degr. and a quart. It is seated in a very pleasant Countrey of Old Media, now called Surwan, or Schirwan. This is the Place where som time agon the Holsteyn Ambassadours suffered Shipwrack. At night we set down at Muskar, being a Town without Walls, or any other Fortification but seems to have bin in times past a place of trust, as well from its Situation, as the Ruins of the Walls and Bulwarks which yet ap­pear. By the way we saw abundance of Robbers in the Woods, but they knowing us to be too strong would not adventure the Attempt.

On the 4 we broke up, and that day came to Scabaran a little City, where the whitest and best Rice in all Persia is brought to market, and grows in the Countrey round about. It is also in such plenty that the Hundred weight is sold for 13 Ochbas, [being about 4 Shil. 2 Pence Sterl. or a halfpenny per Pound.] The Walls of this City are now de­molished so that it is no more than an open village. The only Re­markable I found here was the Ruins of the Ovens, wherein they averr Alexander the Great had Bread baked for his Army.

On the 5 ^th. we came to the mountain Par— or Barmach, which lies close to the Sea, and is very famous for it's many veins of Which is also called Median Oil & Babilo­nish Bi­tumen, of the nature of Marl, which when once set on fire, will burn more vigorously if water be poured upon it, but is quen­ched with Earth, Dust, or any other thing that is dry. This oil is very good to preserv any mettal from Rust; and as Ammianus saith, the Persians were went to anoint their shafts therewith. Naphte. The word Barmach is an Appellativ word and betokens in their Lan­guage a Finger, so called from it's similitude to a Finger pointing out. Above at Top it is very cold, and has snow on the North side all the year long: at top there grows som grass but not much, and [Page 238] that all hung with Iceicles. On this Hill appear the Ruins of som Watch-Towers, and below have been several Fortlets to check the Tartars, and secure the Medians from the Invasion of the Scythian Robbers. Amidst those Ruins, is a huge deep Pit digged and laid in with stone. Naphta, otherwise called Petroleum or Per­haps from the Greek words [...] Oil, & [...] a Rock. Petrelaeum is an Oil coming naturally out of the veins of the Rock, which veins do run thro the whole stones, as in Marble. There are 40 Pits digged as Receptacles to hold the said Oil, being convey'd thither by several Pipes, or Conduits; But there are three of those whence it naturally flows or springs, where you may see it buble up like boil­ing pitch. Of this Oil there be two sorts; the one tending to a brown or black, which has a very strong smell, but the other which is white is of a lovely smell when fresh, and held in far more esteem than the other.

On the 6 dito we set forward again, and went over very high Hills, coming at night to Bachal a village seated in a low but fruit­full Valley. Here grows much Rice, and that very good, it being a marshy Ground, where that Grain likes best; Barley also grows there in good plenty. The Inhabitants have an excellent way of making Cakes, the main stuff thereof being Honey and Oil: whereof for the rareness and novelties sake my Master bought certain to use on our Journey.

On the 7 dito we left Bachal, and after a good Days Journey came into Cothany, which is a very pleasant Place: and here we took up our Lodging. This Village lies in a low Valley which is full of Woods of Hasles and other small Trees, in which Woods are the greatest plenty of Hares that ever I have seen in all my Life.

On the 8 dito we arrived at the famous Scamachy, called also Sumahi, and Samachy. It is a very famous Mart, and lies in 40 degr. 30 min. In the Province of Schirwan, or Media. It is handsomly seated in a Vally, so that one cannot see it till he be within Cannon Shot of the Town. The distance between Derbent and Scamachy is computed a Weeks Journey, excluding Sunday, to wit, following the High­way which is crooked and Winding, for by reason of Hills and Rivers they are fain to travel far about, or otherwise one might go it in 2 days: there is also another way which Passengers take when they go not with the Caravan; the Caravan would also go that way, [Page 239] but the Tolls about the Mountains of Lahatz are very great, and oftentimes long a clearing, so that they rather chuse to go the other way. In former times this was a Town of some consideration as to matter of strength; but in the Wars of Abas, the Scach, or King of Persia against the Turks, it was by him dismantled and made an open village, which was ever by him a Maxim of Military Policy, by reason the Turks were wont to retire into fortified Places under pretext of Refuge, and after a few Moneths proving strong and numerous would surrender up the Town to their own Nation in time of War, or upon an Uproar: Scama­chy de­scribed. so that all the Walls toward the South were demolished and only those on the North-side left stan­ding, which will not much avail upon such sudden Occasions.

The Northern Quarter is far less than the Southern, and the Mote so shallow together with the mean condition of the Walls, that one may enter in as they please in many Places, notwithstan­ding their due shutting of the Gates, that are in number 5. The Streets are all thrô the Town very narrow and the Buildings low, made up of Clay, Planks and Twigs daubed over. In the South-quarter is a spacious Market-place which they call a Bogan, having round about it several rich Shops in Galleries and Piazzas, wherein are seen many rich Merchandizes and Manufactories, as Silks, Cot­ [...]ons, Furrs, Cloth of Gold and Silver, Tapestry, &c. Near this place are also two great Warehouses having several Portics or Alleys, where all Merchants-strangers buy and sell several sorts of Merchan­dizes. The one of these is called Scach Carwansera, or, the Empe­rours Lodgings, whither Russians for the most part have recourse, and barter their Tin, Copper, Sables and other Commodities: the other is called Lesgi Carwansera, i. e. The Tartars Lodgings; and hither repair mostly the Dagestan and other Tartars, whose Trade consists chiefly in Men and Children, stole either from their own Nation or the Russians, as also in Horses: hither also repair many Jews who deal mostly in Bedding and Cottons. This Town upon my arrival there was altogether new built, althô about 3 years be­fore it lay on heaps. This place is very subject to Earth quakes and in the space of one year were 3 great ones, but that in the year 1667 was the greatest that has been known or heard of in any Age. It con­tinued for the space of 3 moneths, but not with that terror and [Page]

[Page] [Page 241] Ambassadour to buy me of my Patron. This gave a delicate sound in my Ear, being the only thing I desired to hear of; and coming home began to supplicate my Master that he would vouchsafe to sell me into the Hands of the Polish Ambassadour, at which he seem'd to be a litle altered, and said, John, consider with your self the nature of your request: have you found such hard usage the time you have been with me? Why then would you go from me? Go rather with me to Ispahan, where, since you have once saved my life and in all things else proved faithfull, I will bestow you upon som of your own Nation without Redemption Money: or any thing else in stead of you, where you shall be assuredly free. But I still re­membred the words of my Patroness Altine, and had no great sto­mach to go for Ispahan with him: However with many thanks de­clined his Offer, praying him rather if he had the Kindness for me he professed, that he would please to let me have my request herein; for I longed mainly to be among Christians. Well, said he, since you will go, you shall, but be assured you shall not find better usage than you have here, althô it were with a Christian, [forsooth]. As for this Bochdan the Polish Minister, he is not so good a Christian as you think, but a light vain Georgian, whom the King of Poland has dispatched to the Sophy, to treat about a War with the Turks, but such is his deportment here, and remissness in the Affairs of the King his Master, that he will in all probability be called in question about it. All this did not a whit daunt me from my Resolution, for I gave him a certain allowance as to the Character he had given him; or, althô he had been such a Person there was more hopes of my coming home thrô Moscovia, sooner than thrô India, and so from Batavia. This Bochdan as I have been since infor­med had formerly a Command of Horse under the King of Poland, and was so well acquainted with the Humor of the King, that he was im­ploy'd on this Ambassage, but much envy'd by the Polanders. The next day I was sold and delivered up to the Ambassador for 150 Abas, being the sum Hadsy Biram had paid for me to the Prince. Upon my taking leav of my Master, he wished me happiness, and withone told me that he was sensible the King of Poland had Money enough to redeem a Christian, otherwise he would have taken nothing for me.

And now was none more happy than my self in imagination, not thinking otherwise than suddenly to have my Freedom. On the 1 of November I was sent for by the Ambassadour, where being [Page 242] introduced into the Parlor, he speedily bad me sit down, and fell to asking many Questions about my Nation, and my coming to be a Slave. I told him all from the Beginning to the End. He then cal­led for a Bowl of Wine, and bade me drink. Whilst I sat there, were two young Georgian Girls brought to the Door, who being stole by the Dagestan Tartars, of handsom Bodies, and tolerable Beauties as also the Ambassadours own Countrey Women he had compassion of them and bought them for the value of 100 Crowns. These he kept for Warming Pans, and would upon Occasion, when he made any Feast, cause them to dance: nor did they much seem to be con­cern'd at the loss of those heavy burthens called Maidenheads, althô the Art is to know where they first got rid of'em.

CHAP. XXII. The Hatred and Churlishness of the Ambassadour against the Polish Gentry. A Polish Gentleman murthered in his bed. The pitiful case and condition of the Polan­ders, who were in the Retinue of the Legate. The Ambassadours Greediness. He indeavours to turn Mahometan, The Authors intention to make his escape. Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi, where they do what they can for the Captivs. The Ambassadors Brother goes for Ispahan, where he desires to be admitted as a Mahometan; but is not recei­ved, William the Masters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi. A great Earth-quake. Consecration of Water among the Armenian Christians. A great concourse of People, and remarkable Ceremonies.

ON the 2 of November came the Sister of the Ambassador, and his Brother with a great Retinue and Pomp: their Reception was with an Extravagant Banquet, which dured several days. So long as this Junketting lasted, was such Gluttony, Drunkness and Pro­digality, yea such beastliness shown, that I almost abhorred the name of a Christian, when on the other side I saw the Mahometans point at them, who are themselvs very abstemious and temperate. Yet this only was to gratify the Georgians and Persians, for he demeaned himself very churlishly towards the Polish Gentry who were sent to grace his Person as a Retinue. Scarce were they ever admitted into his presence, and besides that pinched in their allowance [Page 243] as well in Diet as Habit, NOV. 1670. and at last having spent the Money they brought with them out of Poland, were reduced to such poverty, that they went up and down like Beggars, being ashamed to com into honest Company? for besides their costly Attire which he always kept locked up, he would not allow them a sufficiency of Linnen to keep them clean. If any offered to complain he threatned to sell them for Slaves, which tended to the great detriment of those his Domestics, and Dishonour of the King and Crown of Poland. This bred in the Polish Gentry such dissaffection that they resolved often­times to have revenge; but as those who know themselvs conscious of such ill demeanor are ever in fear of their Persons, so he who knew himself guilty of such wicked doings, had always a certain number of his own Nation to secure and guard him. However they once finding opportunity, and being already com to the very Ca­tastroph of Patience, began to hew him with their Scymiters and Axes, as he should go out of his Dining-Room, The Am­bassador hacked almost to death. where they chopt and mangled him so that he lay for dead upon the Floor, in the Portic, having received 17 grievous Wounds, and lost three Fingers of his Right hand: yet by the great diligence and skill of his Chirur­geon who was then at hand, he was restored to his former Health and Sanity. This outrage as it could not but ingender bad blood, so it rendred the Ambassadour much more despightfull than before, and that very night to be revenged, sent a Georgian Soldier to Paniegros, a Polish Gentleman, who was as Assistent in this Ambassage, and equally impowered to treat with the Ministers of State at the Per­sian Court, and therefore reckoned by the other as an obstruction in the Promotion of his Interest, as well as his being ready to repre­sent the Occasion of these Tumults to the King, in such manner as might tend to his disadvantage: yet it ought to be understood of this Gentleman, that he neither gave incouragement, nor knew any thing of that extravagant Action. Panic­gros, [...] Polish Gentle­man murthe­red on his bed. The Georgian having obtai­ned entrance, ran to his Bed-side and there most inhumanly murthe­red him whilst asleep. This Paniegros was a Gentleman of a brave conduct, and withall of a meek temper, having purchased the Love even of those that seemed to be his Lot-enemies for his prudent and civil deportment, He had lived for som years together at Amster­dam, and spoke very good Nether-dutch. The rest of the Polish Na­tion, [Page 244] were taken and secured, som whereof were fast in Chains. Nor with this did the Ambassador hold up, but dayly revenged him­self of the Poles, The Prince of Sca­machi makes peace. which he used as Slaves; and the more to over aw them listed several Georgians-Soldiers to guard his Body. The Prince of Scamachy now sensible of the Differences and sad disorder of affairs, took upon himself the Office of a Mediator and adjousted the mat­ter so well, that the imprisoned Parties were set again at liberty: yet were no better used than before as to their Sus-and Maintenance, whereas one Man might easily eat the Allowance he gave for 8. He on the Contrary continued a Junketting with those of his own Na­tion, that an Ox a day would not have been too much, if it were not for varietie and change of Diet. He bought 13 Kine which he sent out into the Field, and set me to look after them, but finding my self at a loss for Victuals, I assumed the liberty to tell his Excellency that he must please to send me somthing to eat in the Field. His answer was: If you will have any thing, steal a cow from the Persians, and help your self so. But that Commission I took occasion to let alone, being sen­sible that my masters Order would not excuse me. Thus I suffered more hunger than in all my life, and sore against my will intimated the matter to my former Patron Hadsi Biram, who gave me this reply, I told you of it before-hand, what a villain that Georgian is, That he was but a Christian in show, and far too base to be a Musulman. And cer­tainly the Gentleman had good reason on his side: for this Ambassa­dour well knowing what Beer was brewed for him at the Court in Warsaw, dispatches his Brother to the King at Ispahan, to suppli­cate that they might both be circumcised, pretending that now know­ing better things than he had hitherto don, therefore could not have Peace or Rest in Conscience, but continual Horror and Inquietude, if he were not admitted as a member in Mahometanism. But they had such ample and clear Information at Court of his Life and Beha­viour; that they easily perceiv'd upon what account he did it, and consequently declined his Request. Shortly after he also received a Mandate from Ispahan to depart immediatly for Poland, which was acceptable news for the Polish Gentry, hoping at once to be rid of that Slavery and Misery they suffered. After my old Patron had discoursed me a litle about this affair, took his leav of me, say­ing, John, I am very sorry for your condition, pre'thee therefore com twice [Page 245] a day to my house and eat, or at what time you are hungry. I shall give my wife order, upon my Absence to give you Victuals. The sweetest music, I must confess, I heard in Persia; and certainly he who was a Ma­hometan, surpassed my Georgian Master far in Charity, who had rather feed Doggs he kept for his pleasure, than Christian-strangers, althô his own Domestics.

'Tis true this Offer was very acceptable, but all my fear was, that Hadsi would not tarry long at Scamachy, so that I should again be at a loss, and therefore I determined with my self to run away; as then I met with an opportunity to go for Smyrna with a great Cara­van, which was a preparing and almost ready to set forward. I had already bespoke my self to go with an Armenian who was to set for­ward 6 days before the general Departure with the great Caravan, but what reason I met with to the contrary shall be shortly told.

Novemb. 4. I went out of the Town to see if I could speak with an Ambassadour who was dispatched from Ispahan to Moscou, and to request of him to represent our Condition to the Czar, but I could not get to speech of him. He had with him 4 Tygres and Leopards for a present to the Great Duke.

On the 11 to my great Astonishment and Joy I saw our Captain Butler, together with Cornelius the Gunner, J. van Termund, Christian Brand, Lewis Fabritius and Peter Arentsz coming into Scamachy; upon which in all hast I ran to bid them welcom and salute them, althô the Captain showed himself much displeased at us, for that we (as he alleadged) went away without his leav and order, and not waiting for him: to which I replied, Captain you cannot forget what your Order was, That we should not stay so much as a quarter of an hour for any one, after the Gates were shut, but if any transgression of your Order must be imputed to us, it must be this that we stay'd till midnight for you, and not hearing any thing of you, we concluded that you were either killed in the Tumult, or had made your escape som other way; we then not holding it safe for us to make any longer delay, thought it more prudence to put off than to stay till it was day light, &c. With these and other reasons I gave him he seemed to be satisfied, and promised to do all that lay in his power to pro­cure our Redemption, as from that time forward he laboured very much to do. And this was the reason, that my intended Journey for Smyrna, was not undertaken thinking this to be a more hope­full [Page 246] and a more secure way to get free: for this happened just the same day I had purposed to set forward with the Armenian, and so after 2 or 3 days Journey to wait for the great Caravan. Our Cap­tain applies himself to the Chan of Scamachy to intercede for the Cap­tivs, but all he could do might not avail, for there was no Au­dience lent him, It seemed as if the Sultan of Derbent had hardned his temper, for in presence of the Dutch and others that had taken the Mediation upon them; whereas on the contrary they had ever been good Friends with the Calmuc & Osmin, frequently sending and recei­ving mutual Presents from each other.

When the Captain saw there was no hopes to procure our Re­demption at Scamachy, he purposes to go for Ispahan, and address himself to the King; the more for that the Commissioners of the East India Company might assist him. He therefore took up seve­ral Abas of an Armenian, for which he must have pay'd 25 per Cent more at Ispahan: he left I. van Termund at Scamachy for security.

On the 18 Christian Brand by the intercession of I. van Termund, was taken to board in the Polish Ambassadors House, giving good se­curity for the same at Scamachy.

Mean while the Brother of the said Ambassador went a second time to Court, for to get the consent of the Scach in changing of his Religion, but the result was as unwelcom to him as the former, with an express order to depart immediatly for Poland, and to give a reason of his delay. This news as it was very unacceptable to him, for that he was sensible how affairs would be represented at Warsaw, there being a Courier dispatched off from the Scach to the K. of Poland; so was it also very welcom and acceptable news for the op­pressed Gentlemen in his Retinue. Nor did this outwardly appear at the Persian Court, for upon such occasions they never acquaint any Forreign Minister with any dislike, but intimate it by their own at the Court from whence they are sent in such Quality, whence they expect Satisfaction. This when Bochdan understood he studied all means to avoid going back to Warsaw, and asked me if I thought that the East India Company, or their Directors there, would con­sent to let him imbarque there for Holland? My reply was that I did not beleev it would be granted, and told him several Praecedents for it, as also the improbability of the thing since their Interest was so [Page 247] great in Commerce with Persia; as that they would not do any thing to quit it: However if he would go clandestinly and occasion a Rumor as if he were gone for Moscou, or som where in Tartary, he might imbarque himself as a privat Person. This I said in hopes to come that way home my self. Yet he was various in his Intentions, somtimes taking a resolution to go for Smyrna, and somtimes for Constantinople, or elsewhere. However during the time he was at Scamachy, he Lorded it so bravely, that the Chan durst not check him in any extravagancy he committed: for it seems that the said Chan had taken up a considerable Sum of the Ambassador upon Interest and not being able to pay was fain to rest contented. But the Am­bassador willing to get in his Money and the Chan not in a Capacity to pay it upon demand, the Ambassador sent his Brother to Ispahan to make complaint to the Schach, which when the Chan had under­stood, sent a Post after him, who intreated him to return back, upon promise of Payment, and full Solution both of Stock and Interest.

On the 21 came a Persian to Scamachy with William Barentsz Klopper our Chief-Mate, who had been taken by the Tartars and severely used all the time. The said Persian offered him to the Polish Ambassa­dor who on the 30 ^th. bought him. The Scemkal had first sold him to a Persian of Bachu for 150 Abas. This new Patron set him to keep Cattle, in a Pasture, between Derbent and Scamachy, where upon our Journey to Scamachy I saw, but knew him not. He had a very churlish fellow to his Patron, and therefore attempting several times to run away was still caught again, and beat most severely: and now being redeemed came unexpectedly out of the Frying Pan into the Fire.

Upon the first day of January 1671, on which day we usually in our own Countrey wish one another Happiness: we were aware of a mighty and most dreadfull Earth-quake, which had in a moment laid some hundreds of Houses in Rubbish; most terrible was it to see so many Souls swallowed up in the Earth alive and as lamentable to see some crush'd to pieces and others half dead, some so fast clo­sed up between Walls that they could not be got out. And others wanting their Legs; Arms and other Members, nor was there any but sustained some loss one way or other. When it ceased every one hoped that all was done, but the next day at night the Earth [Page 248] began again to tremble and shake, insomuch that all was in a con­sternation, but none sustained any considerable loss that I could hear of.

Ceremo­nies used by the Christians in Conse­cration of Water.Upon the 6 dito, it frose very hard insomuch that the River was to. Upon this were the Ceremonies of the Consecration of Water solemnized by the Armenian Christians, in presence of the Chan, his Son, our Ambassador, the Poslanick, or an Armenian Courier, who was dispatched for Moscou, and then at Scamachy, all the Persian Nobility and Armenian Christians from all Villages round about, and from afar in the Countrey, who came with Crosses, Flags and Bells, singing Hymns all the way till they came over the Puley Am­bery (a Bridge so called) where they sate down. On the morning very early the Bishop came out with great Pomp and sung Mass, after which an Oration was made suiting the Day, being Epiphany, which he performed with great Zeal and Pains. After that was a Feast which they call Chalse Schuran, or Dipping of the Cross.

These Ceremonies were performed as follows: On each side the River were placed the Chans Guards, and all the Soldiery, to pre­vent any Tumult or abuse of the Armenians, who pay dear enough for the same. After the Chan had taken his place in a Tent expressly provided for that Prince, and the Watch set in good order, the Bishop went to beg permission, before which obtained he dare not be­gin. So soon as the Token was given, some of the Armenians ran naked into the Water, and cut up the Ice with Bills; the Bishop all the while continues reading and the Common people sing. After this they begin to play upon Bels and Cymbals, then the Bishop stepping softly to the River side, pours in Oyl and Water. Then he took a litle Silver Cross, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones, which he dipt 3 times in the Water. This done he took a staff [or Crosier] and stretched it several ways over the River, pro­nouncing several Benedictions. Immediately upon this all the People ran together, and strove who should be first at the River to drink and wash their Faces. This was observantly don of all sorts of People, young and old, Men and Women. Last of all several youths uncloathed themselvs, jumped into the River and swam to and again, diving several times together, as if it had been in the midst of Summer. The Bishop departing homewards, was accom­panied [Page 249] with several Damosels playing upon Instruments and singing all the way before him. JAN. 1671. On the other part there were several Persian Whores and Prostitutes who came to seek their Game, singing and dancing after a very lascivious fashion. In short it concluded as the Orgia or Bacchanalia in the time of Gentilism, which were celebrated by the Thyades, or Priests of Bacchus, with the Persians, who made use of this season as a Fair, whither repaired many Juglers, Pedlers, Stage-players, & other Vagabonds; but the Armenians, did not either in Eating or Drinking exceed the Limits of Moderation.

CHAP. XXIII. The Ambassadours Sister goes to Tafflis, and with her the Polish Chirurgeon. The Corps of an Indian burn'd with a Christian she-slave. The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke sleep, is also cast into the furnace. Two Men murthered at Scamachi, and a tumult thereupon. Strange Ceremonies about the Dead. The Chans son is presented with a Kolotan, or Robe of Favour, and one of the Kings Wives. A man struck dead with staves. A fearful Earth-quake. The Chan also receives a Robe of Favour, and a Wife. Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the same. He receives the Princess. New Tidings from Rus­sia. The Ambassador commanded by the King of Persia to return for Poland; who makes his excuse, The miserable Estate of the Polish Gentry. Theft com­mitted in the Ambassadors Palace. A man tortured that was innocent. The Polish Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis. Another Corps of an Indian burned with a living Woman. The great kindness of Hadsy Biram to the Au­thor. His bad entertainment with the Ambassador.

ON the 9 ^th. departed the Sister of Bochdan the Polish Ambassador for Tafflis with 7 Camels and conducted with som Georgian Sol­diers. The City Tafflis is distant from Scamachy, about 8 Leagues. The next day her Brother, with the Ambassadors Chirurgeon cal­led Adam departed also. This Chirurgeon was a Polonian by Birth, and had been sent for by the Prince of Tafflis, who intreated the Ambassador to let him come; promising him a sufficient Salary, besides, his Diet, Appartments at Court, 4 Slaves of whether sex he liked, and to provide him a Wife of his own chusing and Reli­gion, the Prince being himself a Roman Catholic. The Chirur­geon with whom I was very intimate would often consult the Mat­ter [Page 250] with me, and ask what advice I could give him. I alwaies coun­cil'd him, ‘Not to neglect such a golden Opportunity, telling him further what he had to expect if he should continue with such a Varlet as Bochdan was, who was both greedy and ingrate­full for the best service any one could do him, althô it were supere­rogatory. That if the Ambassadour should return for Poland, as 'twas a matter very dubious, he would still be in statu quo, and must if he stay'd here never hope for any advancement by him who was becom loathsom to the worst of men.’ He thanked me for my advice, and resolved to do as I had council'd him; and soon after departed, as is said. Right sorry I was when he left us, being ever kind to me and other Slaves, althô I was by duty injoyn'd to wish and rejoyce at his Welfare, for his extraordinary Civilities. The Prince of Tafflis began first to be taken with him upon his noble cure performed on the Ambassador, when he was struck down by the Poles, as was said before.

The Corps of a rich In­dian bur­ned with a Woman Slave.On the 15 died at Scamachy, one Tzouke a very rich Indian, whose Corps his Brother after their manner desired to burn, which by a very long and importunate intercession of the Prince was granted, he paying for the same about .1300 Crowns. The Indian having ob­tained this Grant the next day bought a Christian Woman, which he burned with the Corps. The Bodie and the Woman were car­ried together without into the Field where they had made up a great Staple of Wood and a place within for the Corps. The Priests give the Woman a Potion and with an Engine throw her into the Fire. The Indian Priests gave the Woman a Potion to provoke sleep and then set her upon an Engine like a Crane or Whip, made on purpose letting her so fall into the Fire. In the mean time the Bonzi poured a great Vessel of Turpentine Oil upon the Wood and so set it on fire, and then gave the Engine a turn, upon which the Woman fell into the fire. 'Tis true the Woman seemed by vertue of that Potion to be fallen into a Cataphor, or Dead-sleep, yet I heard her shriek out several times till the Drums, Pipes, Trumpets and other Wind-Music began to play, which was so loud and altisonant, that I could not hear any lon­ger, althô I got a place near the Pile which was erected for these Ceremonies. Such practise was also in use among the Idolaters of Palaestina, who offered their Children to Moloch. When the Fire had consumed all, the Ashes were thrown into the River.

[Page 251]On the 21 was a great noise in Town about 2 Men that were murthered, and the Homicides unknown. The Widows, JAN. 1670. Chil­dren and Friends of the Partys murthered brought the Dead Bodies to the Gates of the Princes Palace as demanding Justice, Two Men murthe­red. and Pu­nishment for the Delinquency. About two hours they sat by the Bo­dies with their Heads, and Right Arms bare, as a token that those were their Allies and Friends, and kissed the Corpses several times for they repute those that are so murthered indisputably Saints in Heaven. Hither flocked also Women from all parts and Countreys round about, esteeming it a work of merit. The Persons murthe­red were but ordinary People, and Citizens of the meanest sort, so that the Chan, did not use much diligence in hunting out the Ma­lefactors, for without Money Justice is rarely don. After the Corps had laid here about 2 hours, as was said, they were by Order of the Chan carried away upon Barrows and interred in the Field, with som few Ceremonies. Every night were set up several Torches, and by day went Hundreds of Women to perform the usual So­lemnities and superstitious Rites at their Tombs. The Ceremonies are as vain as foolish which they do about the Dead; at their first coming there they bow down three times at the Grave, and as often kiss it, adorning the Place round about with Flags of several Co­lours which they make fast to sticks.

On the 27 was a general Exultation expressed at Scamachy, with Beating of Drums, Sounding of Trumpets and variety of Wind-Music, for that the Chans Son had a Robe of Favour bestowed upon him, and one of the Kings Wives; which were sent him for a Pre­sent as a Mark of Loyalty: and indeed the latter is never don but upon the score of an exceeding high Favour; and althô they have the names of the Kings Wives, yet it mostly happens that they are pure Virgins, it being a thing impossible that he should make use of so many as are dayly brought to him from all parts of his wide Dominions, which are alwaies the most select Beauties; however the Grandees of Persia, are less contented when they find them Maids, than otherwise, and for that reason do as duly conceal it, as others who find the contrary on privat Occasions; For, say they, 'tis a Greater Honour to fish in the Kings Pond, than in one of their own: Nor are the Women altogether sad at such disposals, since they live, as [Page 252] it were, FEB. 1671. in the State of Widdow-hood for som years together, the number of them being so great.

A fellow Cau'd to Death.On the 1 of Febr. was a Man beat to death with Canes by order of the Chan, none understanding the reason why. The Execu­tion was don by the Domestics of the Palace, for they have no Or­dinary Executioner: These tied him Hand & Foot, which don, they fell a caning him with Sticks, or Ciplins, having a great knot at the End: no member was spared in his whole, for having threshed him a while on his Back, they began with his Sides, and afterward his Belly, Thighs, Leggs, Arms, &c. which kind of Death must needs be a greater Torment than Breaking upon the Wheel, which we hold too cruel and inhuman, althô in use in most Countreys in Europe.

Another great Earth-quake at Scama­chy.The same day towards night we had another formidable Earth-quake, and out of the Caves was heard a most hideous roaring and yelling before it began, so that none durst sleep or come near any house; however it lasted not very long, but ceased with the de­struction of a few Houses, which were buried in their Rubbish.

The Chan sent for to receive some no­ble Pre­sents.The next day came an Express to Scamachi from the Court at Ispa­han, with Instructions for the Chan to com to Court, and as he and many more beleeved to suffer the direfull effects of the Kings dis­plesure; yet the Courier privatly assured him on the contrary, as that it was to receiv som Royal Present. Betimes in the morning on the next day the Chan set out for Kallikklefthan, which is a Pleasant Dwelling belonging to the King, and about half a [ Dutch] league distant from Scamachy, being accompanied with his own Son, the Calenter, all the Nobility and Courtiers, as also our Lord, the Polish Ambassador, and the Poslanic of Armenia. The Chan himself was mounted on a stately Arabian Horse, richly Capparison'd, the Mounchet or Saddle-Cloth richly embroydered and set with Pearls and Precious Stones; the Chaplets, Bitts, and Buckles were of pure and solid Gold, and all the rest of the Accoutrements suita­bly rich and splendid. The young Prince was equally well mounted with his Father, on a Horse bespread with very rich Trappings, and a noble Harnass. The rest of the Retinue likewise appear'd with as much Pomp and Stateliness, every one agreeable to his Qua­lity. After this Cavalcade follow a great Train of Citizens, every one [Page 253] in his best Garb. When he came near the place he sent out an Usher to acquaint the Envoyé with his coming, who then went out to meet him, sending a Gentleman before him with the Robe, himself following after leading a stately Horse, on which the Lady was mounted which the King had sent him, guarded with a Circle of Noblemen all moun­ted on horseback, and a gallant Troop of Cavalry, armed with long Carbines, Bows and Arrows. So soon as the Chan saw them approach, he allighted from his Horse, as did also the young Prince his Son, and all the Retinue, walking softly on foot till they came close together, at what time the Envoye [or Wakenutz] reached forth his hand and delivered the Chan a Box of Gold, which he received with demonstration of respect and in humble manner after the Persian fashion. This don, he delivered him the Robe, which the Chan received with som Ceremonies customary among the Grandees, and forthwith drew it on. Last of all the Envoyé brought up the Bride as she sat on Horseback and delivered her to the Chan, who very reve­rently bowed, laying one hand on his breast and the other on the Bridle, close by the Bitts: upon which the Lady held forth her Hand, which the Chan kissed, and so mounting on his Horse closed up with her, and taking leav of the Envoyé rode away, present­ing the Envoye with som Gifts, which he sent back to Kaliklefthan. By the way they were met with innumerable companies of People from all parts, who came as nigh as they well durst or were permit­ted to see the Bride, who was as richly attired as could be expected of a Princess; but after the Persian custome her Face covered, so that one could not see whether she was fair, or otherwise. Before they came at Scamachy, the Chan allighted, as also the Lady, who was set in a Chair of State and so carried by certain Persons thereto ap­pointed into the Town, the Chan going on the one side and his Son on the other, In the mean while the Kettle-drums beat, & the Trum­pets sounded that the Mountains eccho'd, and all the People shou­ted with continual exclamations for Joy; for it is alwaies the man­ner with the Kings of Persia, to conceal the message, to all, save him who has the Instructions, who either remunerates them with such Gifts as the King is pleased to send, or else to bring their Head along with him; so that a Prince so sent for takes his leav of all his Friends and Relations, before he sets forward to know the Kings [Page 254] Plesure at the Hands of his Legate: for the Errand is dispatched with such speed that they have not time to dispose or consult affairs. These extreme Mesures create great Loyalty and Obedience in the Greatest Officiated Personages; who are carefull to please and fear­full to displease their Soveraign Lord: neither is it one of the lest Machines to bring vast Sums and an inexhaustible Tresure into the Kings Coffers, for they aemulate who should bring the greatest and most acceptable Presents: as also to such as they understand to be the chief Minions and Favorites in Court.

The Chan having entred the City apparrelled in his Robe, which was of Cloth of Gold, he was saluted with the Ordnance, and se­veral Volleys of small Shot; The People also of all degrees and ranks continued playing and junketting the greatest part of the night.

New In­telligence from Russia.On the 3 dito, Lewis Fabritius rode post to Derbent in order to his Journey for Moscou, upon the first good and certain news he could have from Russia: for there was a strong report that the Czar had a great Army in Camp and having beat the Rebells in open Field was ready to lay siege to Astrachan; as also that one of a high Command and next to Radzin, was taken and put to a shamefull and ignomi­nihus Death.

A Con­flict be­tween a Polish Gentle­man and a Rene­gado.On the 10 dito one Slabitsky a Polish Gentleman, went to Court, where he casually met with the Chans Trumpeter, who was a Po­lander, and a Renegado, where reprehending the Trumpeter for renouncing the Christian Faith, and becoming a Proselyte in Per­sia, he grated a little too hard upon the Renegado's Conscience, so that he after a few hot words drew his Scymiter and ran upon the Gentleman, who was not remiss in doing the like; yet having bad success in his aim, the Renegado hack'd and wounded him so, that his Life was despaired of.

The Ambas­sadour receives a Man­dat to depart.On the 18 came an Express to my Patron, the Polish Envoyé, from the Court at Ispahan, with the same Mandate, that he should forthwith go for Poland: But he excused himself, alleadging that the Caspian Sea, was full of Cosac Pyrates, and that the Tartar Coun­treys were also very unsafe, since he must go thrô the Osmins Terri­tories, who had more than once badly intreated the Polish Ministers, who were to pass that way: These were indeed likely, but not the real reasons why he deferred his Repatriation, but, as was said be­fore, [Page 255] the danger he was in, of loosing his Head when called in question about his ill deportment in Persia. The Gentlemen in his Retinue finding this Procrastination of his Journey to Warsaw did but increase their Misery, were almost in despair, willing rather to beg all the way home, or get into service with the Caravans. Amonst the rest one Pable Witsky, a youth of 19 years of Age, departs for Smyrna with the Caravan. This young Gentleman having shown us more than ordinary favour, I thought my self obliged to do what lay in my Power to retaliate his kindness, and therefore gave him Letters to the Dutch Consul at Smyrna and to some eminent Merchants of our Nation, desiring if he should chance to be necessitated or at a loss for Money they would please to assist him, he having upon his departure no more than 20 Crowns. I gave them also a full Demon­stration of what he had done for the Dutch Slaves, as also an account of his Worth in respect of his Race and Descent, he being of one of the noblest Families in the Countrey, and was able to remitt what they thought good to disburse for him.

On the 19 dito were 6 Silver Plates stollen out of our Masters House which put all into a disorder, he being so passionate that nought could appease him; and suspecting one Man for the Theft, he caused him to be tortured in the presence of all the Family, althô he was innocent as to the Fact. First he was beat with sticks on the soles of his Feet which he nevertheless manfully stood out: when this was done they held his Feet close to the Fire, which made him yell and roar out, that the Hair of my Head stood on end; and in as much as he could not any longer endure the Torment, he con­fessed what he was not guilty of, as afterwards appeared; althô when he was taken away he denied all: and thus the poor man meerly because he was a Pole so used that he could neither stand nor go, nor was allowed a sufficient care to restore him to his former Sanity, nor had any thing by way of satisfaction, as an acknow­ledgment of a wrong.

About this time came news from Tefflis about the Chirurgeon who had done that operation on the Ambassador, how that the Prince having understood that he was arrived sent for him, and after many Caresses and in order to his Promise, sent for one of the most emi­nent Merchants in the City, who had one only Daughter. The [Page 256] Prince then makes the Overture, telling him that young Gentleman was one with whom he had intrusted his Life, and asked if he would give him his Daughter in Marriage. The Merchant was at first sur­prised, hardly ready enough to give consent that a stranger he had never heard of in his Life should have his only Daughter; and yet durst not well deny him, for those Princes rule with an Arbitrary Power; and althô out of some show of Courtesy they seem to request a thing of their Subjects, yet when occasion servs they command at their discretion: nor dare the Subject either murmure or oppose them in the least, for fear of parting with their sweet Lives, and loss of Estate which is taken from their Posterity. The Father gives consent but thought her too young for the nuptial Bed, she not ex­ceeding 12 years of Age, and therefore pray'd the Marriage might be put off till she was 2 years elder; however the Contract was signed in presence of the Prince, with Condition that she came to die without Issue that her Estate should devolve upon him. In fine he was there in very great reputation and gave the Merchant reason to be well satisfied with his Person; who show'd him all Possible Favour and Friendship.

On the 26 dito our Patron, the Ambassadour, got intelligence of the Party that had stole his Plate, being discovered by a Goldsmith that had bought it; for Notice was given to all the Goldsmiths in Scamachy, that if any one bought it, he should have his Money again, and a Reward to boot. Yet this Delinquent had more favour shown him than the Party who was put to the torment before, thô inno­cent of the Fact; for this received only a few blows on the Foot, and was declared free. He was a Polander, not in service of the Am­bassador, but only a Parasite who frequented the House.

On the first of March was another Indian Corps burned with a Live-Woman, after the same manner as was said before; only the Wood was poured over with Naphte, in place of Turpentine Oil.

On the 2 dito, Hadsy Biram my former Master sent for me to come to him, where he intimated how that he intended so soon as he possi­bly could to go for Ispahan, and asked me if I would go with him. I answered, Sir, I would be glad that I might be so happy, but the greatest difficulty will be to escape out of the Hands of my Patron: for at first he would hardly trust me over the Threshold without one to watch me, but in time gave [Page 257] me my Liberty to go where I would: MAR. 1671. yet finding me for his bad usage desirous to be out of his hands, watches me more narrowly than he did at first. Upon this he expressed how sorry he was that he had sold me to the Am­bassador, as indeed for my own part I had great reason to be: where­as by the first I had plenty of all that was necessary and was without any Oversight, but with the last suffered perpetually Hunger, Rai­ling & Blows, and forced to lie all Winter on the hard and cold Floor without any Coverlet to keep me from cold, so that it was an evident token of GODS Goodness that I came off with health and soundness of Body. All the Winter long I was not permitted to come in the Kitchin, much less at the Stove, so that I had no way to warm my self, unless when I found som pieces of wood among the Rub­bish which I lay together and made a Fire of; but what was worst I durst not for my life complain, however with the approachment of the acceptable Summer season I was eas'd of that one hardship.

CHAP. XXIV. The manner of Celebrating New-years day among the Persians. Advice from Boynak: from Derbent. Fire-balls fall from the Sky. Five Hundred beautiful Damosels sought up for the Scach, or Sophy of Persia. A quaint mean by which a Merchant saves his Daughter. The Author writes to Smyrna. A Chieftain of the Cosaks brought into Scamachy; and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Ispahan, where he is upon promise of detecting somthing of weïght set at Liberty. A Persian murthered by a drunken Georgian. The murtherer executed by the Brother of the murthered Party. A Horrible Self murther committed by several Persons at a Wedding. A great Feast celebrated in memory of Hosseyn, the 3d Son of Ali. A terrible Earth-quake. The Chans Son dies and is interred.

ON the 10 of March being the Vernal Aequinoctial begins their Year. This day is celebrated with Shooting, Playing, Celebra­tion of New-years day. Feasting and Music. The Solemnity began with the Firing of two great Guns, and several Volleys of Muskets and lesser Fire-arms. All the night they playd upon Trumpets, Cornets, Flutes and other Wind-music, besides 15 Kettle-drums. This day the Persians call Naurus, and wish one another a happy New year, as is customary among us on the 1 of Ianuary. The Chan as also all the Nobles and Citizens [Page 258] kept open Table for several days together, whilst nothing was tal­ked of but Visits and Banquets. My Patron professing Christianity was excused from these Expences, holding out, that he being a Christian could not safely maintain Mahometan Superstition. This was a happy time for our Gentlemen, who now with Authority went a mumping among the Persians, nor did I think it good to dine with Duke Humphrey, so long as I had such an honest Hadsi Biram to address my self to, whither I went and was very kindly entertained.

On the 21 we received a Letter from one of our Company, who was a Slave in Scemkal, althô there was no name set to it, at which we wondred; yet did beleeve it was Anthony Munster the Diamond-cutter. The Contents was, ‘That he understood how that there were 2 Dutch Chirurgeons at Scamachy, whom he intreated to redeem him, and he would order the Money to be paid at Moscou.’ The Letter was delivered to us by order of the Chan, but we had not the Power to do any thing for him; yet understood not long after, that the said Munster was carried to Ispahan as Captiv, or Slave.

On the 25 we got a Letter from Meyndert Meyndertsz one of our Company, which was directed to my Patron Bochdan: the Contents thereof being much at one with the former; yet he gave no other account of his fast Residence, than that he was a Slave and lived not far from Derbent, where being a Smith by his Trade he made Wea­pons for his Master. He was afterwards bought by a Persian of Bacchu, and since redeemed by I. van Termund.

The next day happened a Fray between 2 Georgians, the Ambas­sadors Countreymen, who hacked and hewed so long with their Scy­miters till they had hardly a free hand-breadth in their Bodies that was not wounded, nor could our Ambassadour part them, notwith­standing all the means he could use, whereas every one has the Free­dom to right himself in such cases.

On the 31 at night we had another great Earthquake, accompa­nied with fearfull Flashes of Lightning and Thunder: On this day was also seen at Scamachy and other places in Persia huge Balls of Fire, which seemed to be hurl'd down from Heaven, with such Force as if the Bands of the World would be dissolved: this being the most dreadful sight that ever I have seen in my life. The Flame thereof was blewish like Sulphur when it burns.

[Page 259]The next day we got Tidings by way of Terky, that Astrachan was retaken by the Great Dukes Forces, and, that several Thousands of the Rebells were executed; News from Astra­chan. but hearing those news so often rela­ted and afterwards found them to be but false Rumors, supposed to be dispersed by some Persons whose Interest had dependence thereon, we could not so easily be induced to take this upon Credit, and therefore, acquiesced in the Indifferency of the matter till we had a Confirmation.

On the 2 of April came an Order from Ispahan, An Order to levy 500 Wen­for the Scach. to make a Gene­ral Muster of Girls, from 2 years of Age upward, out of which the Beauties select were to be chosen out for the King of Persia. This Muster passed throughout the whole Kingdom, not respecting either Nation or Religion. The Commissioners had Order from the King, to complete the number of 500 of the best featured, com­plexioned and shaped Virgins that were to be found in all the whole Muster. The manner of it is thus; Some time before, the King issues a Mandate, which is published thrô every Province of his Realm and Dominions, That all the young Maids from 2 to 17 years [ if there be any of that age] shall be drawn up to their respectiv Metropolitans, or Chief Towns (as these in Media, were brought to Scamachy) where the Kings Commissioners shall make choice on the Kings behalf. This Mandate is duly and with all reverence obey'd by the Parents of such Children, who, if they have but one Child are obliged upon pain of Death to bring her to the Place ap­pointed, where the said Commissioners are to view and censure them if they be worthy to be culled out for the Kings use. Deplorable it was to see the dejected Countenance of the Parents, who brought their Children where they must take their last leavs of them, never think­ing to see them again; and as remarkable it was to consider the va­rious tempers. and differing humors of the People, whereas som who having a great love and esteem for their Children, would at­tire them in the ougliest Garb, and use what Arts they could to make them seem deformed and mishapen; whilst on the contrary others thinking it a Honour, and being either overburthened with their Chil­dren, or void of that tenderness, which by nature all are injoyned to have over their Issue, would use every mean they could conceiv to render them hand [...]m, and spend their utmost mite for Orna­ments [Page 260] to add a Grace to their corporal qualifications, APRIL. 1671. that so they might be rendered as an Emphasis among the rest.

A Mer­chant looses his Daughter to find her.When this Muster was certified and published, which is but a short warning, I knew a very rich Merchant whose greatest solace and imaginary happiness was in one onely Daughter, who was al­ready marriageable, and courted by a young Gentleman of no slen­der Fortune; but the Father whether he thought her a Match, in regard of her Dowry, Beauty, Wit and other Accomplishments, fitter for a greater Personage, or that the youth had som Property which he the said Merchant took dislike at, I cannot determine; yet certainly he courted her long before he could gain the will and con­sent of the old Man, which till these Summons came he quite de­spaired of. But no sooner did the old Gentleman hear of the Man­date but he sent for the Youth, and not only gave him his Daughter for his Bride but made him in Post-hast to bed with her, that so he might juramentally declare she was no Virgin. The Youngman did not desire many Moneths to deliberate the business, but suddenly accepted of his Offer, and so anticipated the King. Yet this did not altogether excuse them, for it was not so universally known but that som Pick-thank Neighbour thinking that the Gentleman con­cealed his Daughter to escape the Censure, went and informed the Commissioners, that such a Virgin was not brought to the Test, being a great Beauty and well bodied. The Commissioners imme­diatly send out a Privat Summons to the Old Gentleman to bring his Daughter into the Chans Antichambre where they held the Ren­dez-vous; the Old Gentleman makes his Appearance with his Son in Law and Daughter, together with som Persons of Quality to make use of in case Evidence were required where being come, he pre­sents his Daughter, and pray'd them to take his Son too, for he was the Person that had her Maiden-head, which was the only thing the King desired; In fine he declared the matter so circumstantially that she was dismissd.

When the last Muster is made, those that are elected are set in Boxes, made not much unlike a Sedan, and carried on Camels, every Camel carrying two, which hang on each side like Higlers Baskets: and the Morning appointed for their Departure they sound a Trum­pet, upon which all the Caravan comes together in order to their [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 261] setting forth, appearing like a mighty Army. Those that are com to maturity are shut up alone, and such as are litle have Nurses appoin­ted to attend them.

All this while I saw little hopes of ever enjoying my Freedom, so that I began to despair of Redemption. After I had consulted all means, I concluded it my best way to dispatch Letters to som of my own Nation, and accordingly sent one to the Dutch Consul at Smyrna, and another to the Sieur Molives at Leghorn, humbly en­treating them to send them forward for Holland, with one acquainting them that I was in Slavery at Scamachy, and could not send any Letter with safety and conveniency thrô Moscovia, which was the reason of my being so importunate, as to direct them that way.

On the 9 ^th. we had very tempestuous Weather, high and impe­tuous Winds, mixed with Thunder and Lightning, so that all shaked again. On this day went all the Woman to the Sepulchers of their deceased Friends, to perform the customary Rites.

The next day was a great Festival, or Holy day among them, which was solemnized with Beating of Kettle-drums, sound of Trumpets, and Playing on all sorts of loud Wind-Music.

On the 11 ^th. was one of Radzins chief Officers brought into Scama­chy, being with 3 more of the Cosac Commanders sent upon an Am­bassage to Boulat a Prince of the Circas-Tartars, to desire his Assistance of som Auxiliaries, promising not only to spare his Subjects, but also to give him a considerable Reward. The Prince having under­stood the sum of their Instructions, caused immediatly Three of those to be beheaded, and their Bodies to be thrown to the Eagles and Ravens. The Heads he caused to be embalmed and put in a Bag, which he compelled the Fourth to carry to Ispahan and present the King. His one Hand and his Neck was nailed to a Wooden Collar made like a [Y] with 2 Branches, between which his Head was sup­ported, so that he continually looked upwards. This Cosac, or rathér Renegado, for he was a Russ born, I knew very well at Astra­chan. He was mounted on a bay Horse, and attired in a Garment of yellow Silk, and notwithstanding the unexpected severe Usage he met with did not seem by his Countenance to be at all concerned. The Co­sac gets his En­large­ment.

When he was brought into Ispahan, was put into close Prison and loaden with massy Fetters and Manicles, but shortly after got his [Page 262] enlargement promising to impart som weighty and important affair to the King. MAY. 1671.

I have already made mention, how that about 2 years before, Radzin had dispatched 7 Ambassadors to the Court at Ispahan, desiring a Supply of Men and Ammunition, as also to enter into a League with the King: but by reason the Cosacs had plundered Astrabath, Ferre­bath and Lenkeran, and committed many insolent Outrages within his Majesties Territories, and that Radzin was not by any acknow­ledged as a Soveraign Prince, his Ambassadors found a very unkind Reception at Court, and meeting with some menacing Sentences in their Instructions, the King caused their Heads to be severed from their Bodies, reserving only one to bring back the Tidings, who was upon his delivery of the Message ordered by Radzin himself to be chop'd into Gobbets, as may be read more at large in Pag. 192, 193. So that I held it strange that Stephen Radzin would assume the freedom to send any more Legates, without other Ground of Hope, that they should have better success than the former had.

A Per­sian Saint murther­ed.On the 25 was a Persian of reputed Sanctity murthered by a Geor­gian after a very base degenerate manner. The Murtherer was forth­with apprehended and brought before the Prince, where he was accused of the Fact, and consequently delivered to the nearest Allies of the Patient to use at their discretion, as is customary in Persia; for rarely it happens that either the King, Prince, Deputie or the Civil Magistracy take notice of such delinquencies, but turn over the Malefactor to the aggrieved Parties, who if they be Poor oftentimes sell their Vengeance for Money, after which the Law is silent: but here the Delinquent had not that Fortune, for, the Brother of the Murthered Party had neither Poverty nor Mercy, but so soon as permission was granted him, he caused two Men to hold him down till he had stabbed him with the same Weapon, saying, Get thee hence, thou drunken Dog, to the Devil to whom thou belongest; for the Georgian was a drunken Fellow, and executed in the same fit of Drunkness wherein he had so far mistaken himself, so that the Murther, Complaint and Execution were all done in the space of three Hours.

A Tra­gical Pas­sage at a wedding.On the 3 of May fell out a dolefull Tragedy at a Wedding, where when all the Company were in the middest of their mirth, and the [Page 263] Bridegroom in a gay and jolly humour was suddenly struck at the Heart, as if he had taken in somthing that was a vigorous and speedy poyson, and immediately fell down and died in the arms of his Bride. Immediatly upon this all was in a lamentable case: The Bride­grooms Mother was so impatient and concern'd that she took a Knife and ript up her own Belly, that all her Bowels gushed out, and she fell to the Ground. The Sister seeing this, ran out of Doors as one distracted, tearing her Hair and rending her Flesh, that many wondred to think how a young Woman of that tenderness could so mangle and abuse her Body, and at last ran up to the top of a steep Rock, whence she threw her self praecipitantly: so that this fair Mor­ning had a foul Evening, and these Nuptial Solemnities which began with a Comedy, concluded with a deep Tragoedy.

On the 9 ^th. was a solemn Procession made at Scamachy which is yearly celebrated in Memory of St. Hosseyn the second Son of Aly, and the Grand Expounder of the Alcoran, who was stoned to death, or, as som ascertain shot with Darts or Arrows. This Feast they call Asschur, which in their Language signifies Ten, for that Hos­seyn when he went from Medina to Kufu was 10 days pursued by his Enemies, so that this Feast continues 10 days. This Hosseyn as I said before was the youngest Son of the great Aly, for whose death they seem very sorrowfull. About the Beginning of this Feast those that are able apparel themselvs in Blew, which is their Mourning, as Black is with us. During these 10 days they never shave their Hair, nor take any Rasour in their Hands, whereas at other times they make use of it every day. They hold also a very strict Fast drinking nothing but Water, and all the time howl and make a very mourn­full noise, breathing out many fearfull curses against the Murtherer, beating themselvs continually and with that earnestness till they grow black and blew. The Boys and Men run continually about the streets with Flags and Dassels, raging and bawling as if they were either drunk, or besides themselvs, ever crying out O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! Others sit at the Thresholds and in the Galleries of the Mesquits, or Churches, incessantly crying, O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! Before every door, and at every Window were planted many Tor­ches, and not a House how poor soever it was in all Scamachy, with­out a great Number of Torches and wax candles set all in Rows, [Page 264] which gave a wonderfull show. No less worthy of sight was the Pro­cession, which was performed with many Ceremonies; and such was my curiositie that notwithstanding all the Thumps I got, I still crowded in among them to see all I could. First of all appeared the Chatib, or High-priest, accompanied with a long rout of Inferior Clergy; The Chatib, or Mufti, himself was attired in a long blew Robe, with a white Torse, or Wreath about his Head, and so were all the rest of the Clergy attired after the same manner, yet diffe­rent in Pomp and statelyness according to their several degrees and advancement. The Chatib had in his hand an Arabian Book, out of which he read the Memorials of the Saint with an exceeding loud voice; which ended he was silent for a little while, and then again began all the Priests to sing with a strange melody or rather howling, for it was but a confused Harmony, ever crying out O Hosseyn! O Hosseyn! Hosseyn! In short a third part of what I heard was Hosseyn. After these followed all the Great Personages; and next to them 2 Great Pageants of form, square, each with a pompous Canopy, these were suppor­ted and born by a certain number of Men, on the one was the Re­presentation of the Prophet being signified by a Person who had taken in a Potion which made him to sleep for 48 hours together, lying upon a Bier. Round about the [supposed] Corps sate 6 little Boys, who had the Art of weeping ad unguem. Above the Canopy stood two Towers very pompous and costly, and out of the one a Youth put forth his Head weeping aloud and dolefully cried out Hosseyn, Hosseyn! O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! On each side the Pageant ran seve­ral young Men all naked, save only about the Middle, having anointed themselvs with Flower and black Naphtha, that they looked more like Satyrs than Men: in their Hands they had Truncheons, where­with they threatned ( quasi verò) to bastonado the Murtherer: Others there were who carried in each hand a Flint or som hard stone, which they smote together, still howling and weeping aloud, that had it not appeared otherwise by their wanton Actions when any She-slave came near them I should have taken all for real and unfeigned sor­row. All this while they jumped and twisted themselvs into many postures; the Air still Ecchoing with Hosseyn, Hosseyn. Besides these were 6 lusty Men of robust Bodies having each a naked Scymiter in the hand, and bare-headed: these danced after a very od manner [Page 265] making various Figures, and always at turning made an effectual Exercise of their Weapons, in such manner that the Blood which came gushing out of the Wounds on their Heads ran down their Shoulders with such streams, that no part of their Bodies was free of Blood; and to those Champions was imputed a great mesure of Sanctity, for that they had voluntarily shed their Blood for the sake of the great Hosseyn. In one of their Heads (as I afterwards could descry) were more than 20 Wounds.

After this follow'd the second Pageant which was carried by the like number of Men. Above it had a Coffin, upon which was a green Turbant, and round about it were also 6 young Men, each one with an Alchoran in his Hand, wherein they continually read. After this Pageant there followed another small one, on which was car­ried a Vessell, not much unlike a Bathing-Tub, full of Blood, wherein sat two Children, nothing appearing save only their Heads [per­haps to represent the 2 Sons of that reputed Martyr] This was car­ried with a strange noise of vocal Music, but to me seemingly void of Rule and Judgement. Last of all came another small Pageant, with a fair blew Silk Covering, and thereon sate a Youngman who read all the way in a great Book. After these Pageants, or Brancards, fol­lowed 4 Noble-men, each leading a horse of State, richly cappari­son'd: The Saddles being of Gold, and beset with Precious Stones. On the far-side had each Horse a Damaskin Scymiter, and on the near-side a Shield. On each Saddle was a Turbant, adorned with variety of Gems and unspeakably rich. This Solemnity was con­cluded with a grand Retinu of Citizens, who seemingly surpassed all the rest in Devotion. When the Pageants were come before the Door of the Deputy they stood still: and the Deputy accompanied with all the Nobles about the Court, rode out to hear the Chatyb [or Sermon] that the Priest before mentioned, according to the custom, was to preach, which he did with such Zeal, as that the Chan [or De­puty] with all that heard him could not refrain from weeping. Most of the Sermon was a collaudatory Rehearsal of the Sanctity and Noble Acts of Hosseyn, together with a Historical recitation of his Martyr­dom. When the Chatyb was concluded there came an Image of Straw mounted upon an Ass, armed with Bow and Arrows: this Figure was to represent the Murtherer, who as he rode thrô the Preas, every [Page 266] one contemptuously spit upon him, and cursed him with the most bitter Cursings of Hell, Misery, and what else they could imagin, for the violent Hands he had laid upon so holy a man.

Another Earth-quake.On the 16 was another Earth-quake which for some time raged so, that the Ambassadors pallace was shaken, and all the Dishes and what else was loose fell; besides several Houses that were near us were hurled down.

A man beat to Death.On the 17 another Man was Caned to Death by 6 of the Chans Domestics: and on the same day died the Chans Son, being a Child of 6 moneths old, and buried the next day after, with great pomp and station. Death and Fune­ral of one of the Chans Children. The Body was not put in a Coffin, but carried open (after the Persian manner) upon a Bier, by some of the greatest Per­sonages, some of them going on each side, supporting a Caerulean Canopy: for Blew with them, as Black with us, is the Mourning Colour. The Chan himself followed the Bier, and next to him his Son, being about 15 years of Age: after those the Noble Perso­nages and Courtiers, according to their rank and degree. When they were come to the Sepulchre, the Body was set down before the Door of the Chappel, or Oratory, where the Nobility distributed Alms to the Poor, bestowing also very liberally certain pieces of Gold upon the Priests thereby injoyning them to pour out their Prayers for the Soul of the Departed, and to have him in perpetual Remembrance. This don the Body was carried inward, and laid in a new Grave, upon which was a fair Tomb or Monument of white Marble, with admirable curious Foliage, and other Ornaments of Sculpture. The Priests received the Body to interr it with many Ce­remonies and Bowing. When all was closed the Chan drew near to kiss the Tomb, as also his Son, and the rest of the Nobility, and so after their former rank and order returned back to the Palace.

CHAP. XXV. News from Astrachan. A Persian Woman and Adulteress taken in the Fact. A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and complaint of his Father. Another put to the same death. One of the Authors Companions goes for Ispahan, Hailstones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monastery. A Woman taken in Adultery, for which she is sur­rendred up to the Will and Power of her Husband, who fleas her alive, nails up her Skin upon the Wall, and throws out her Carcase into the street. The great Jealousie of the Persians. The male Children about the Court gelded. The great Slave market at Scamachy. The unnatural custom of the Geor-Georgians, The Ambassadour receives a Charge to depart.

ON the 19 dito we had very tempestuous Weather, Tempe­stuous Weather. with fearful Flashes of Lightning and Thunder, that I thought the World would be dissolved, for it was more dreadfull than either my Tongue or Pen is sufficient to express, nor did I ever see the like in all my Life. And the same day we got Tidings from Astrachan, News from Astra­chan. that the City was of a certainty taken in by the Great Duke, that the Army of the Cosacs was beat in open Field, and Stephen Radzin, the grand Belwether taken alive. The Success of the Day next to the Power of the Almighty was ascribed to the German and Dutch Forces, for which good service they received considerable Favours from the Czar, and were beyond the Russians themselvs remunerated with several Tokens of Gratitude.

On the 20 was a great Wrestling Match, of 6 expert Wrestlers being strangers, who quitted themselvs in the Game with an admi­rable Dexterity, doing many noble Exercises in presence of several Hundred Spectators, who could not behold them but with great Wonder. When they had performed all, they went about with a Porceline Dish to desire Money by way of reward.

On the 21 were two of the Ambassadors Gentlemen taken into Custody, and put into fetters by the Persians, for that they had lay with a Mahometan Woman. The Woman her self was shortly after brought and delivered to the Ambassador, to deal with her according to his Discretion; and if he liked to hew her into Gobbets, such bein the Desire of her Husband, who declared himself willing to acquiesce [Page 268] in what was done. But the Ambassadour who had been so long at the Academy of Venus, was such an expert Proficient that he could say his Lesson with out book as w [...]ll as his Domestics, take'em one for one: and in short had such compassion on her that he sent her away a free Remissionary, but not without reconciling her to her Hus­band. Soon after the Gentlemen also got inlargement.

On the 22 a Youngman (according to Sentence passed upon him) was beat to death with Sticks, being to pass thrô the Town and at the Corner of every Street to receiv a certain number of Blows, till at last he dropped down dead. This was mainly occasioned upon the request of his unnatural and merciless Father, who was an eminent Gentleman, and Inhabitant of Scamachy. The Crime for which he was accused was a kind of Satyr, or a Pasquil, which he had written and sent to the Governour: the main purport whereof was in these Words. How comes it that your Lordsh, grows such a great Saint all on a sudden? Who has possessed your mind to alter those long continued Customs of the Persians? And do you not know what Dishonour it is to all the Musulmans and the whole Kingdom in general? Or are you indeed becom a Christian? &c. This Inno­vation he meant, was an Interdiction which the Chan or Governour, had issued 3 days after the Procession, That none should hew and cut (as was their Custom) with Swords in the Streets, like as we have spoke more amply in the Feast of Aly. The Father, som said, durst not but make complaint, lest it should have been imputed to him­self as Misprision, it being well known by others that it was his Son who sent the Libel. But it may be observed that those who would put the affair in that Posture, were either prejudic'd or byassed Per­sons. But others who were indifferent looked upon it as an Example of Unmercifulness and Ambition, where he only did it for Hopes of Favour from the Chan, which be esteemed a Purchase aequivalent to his sons Life. The next day was another Man beat to Death, by 7 of the Chans Domestics before the Gates of the Palace, but for what I could not learn.

A Nar­rativ from Russia.Upon the 26 we got another Narrativ, which confirmed the former News from Astrachan; as also, how that Radzin was carried to Mos­cou. In the mean while Mr. van Termund makes preparation to go for Ispahan, and with all diligence makes up a Company, to the end that he might travel more secure, there being then a great rumor of many [Page 269] Insolencies perpetrated by the Wood-rangers: JUNE. 1671. and on the 29 set for­ward, taking with him Peter Arentsz of Schevelingen, one of our Ships-Company, and a Polish Jew, who had been taken by the Scemkal-Tartars and made his Escape.

On the 30 arose a most hideous Tempest of Wind, Thunder, Great Storms and Hail. Hail and Lightning; which continued for two days together after which all was very calm and still and the air very serene. The Hail did much damage to the Fruit, every Hailstone being of an unusual bigness, som as large as the Egg of a Hen or Turky.

On the 6 of June I went with a Venetian (who had bin a Slave in Turky and run away) about 15 Miles w [...]thin Land, where we found an Armenian Friary. The Monastics received and treated us very kindly, when they understood that we were Christians, and in Slavery to the Mahometans. They intreated us to tell them all the pas­sages we had met with abroad, which the Venetian first did, and after­wards desiring me to do the like, I related all in brief, which they took great delight to hear, especially about the taking in of Astrachan. They desired us further to tarry with them for som time, which we pro­mised to do, and accordingly stay'd there two nights. All the time they caressed us with all kindness imaginable, neither sparing for Victuals nor good Drink: professing themselvs sorry that our con­dition would not allow them the happiness of a longer enjoyment of our Company. Their manner of Life was very single, without any Incumbrance of the Mahometans, their Hous-holding regular and gentile, and the Men among themselvs mutually loving one ano­ther, and sociable with strangers, very charitable to all that were in necessity, of what Opinion or Faith soever they were. Right loath we were to leav them, but not daring to stay any longer, we took our leavs of them, thanking them for their kindness and civility they had shown us. In taking our way to Scamachy, we were fain to climb over some Hills, and one great Mountain flat at Top, upon which was a Lake, according to our guessing, 3 miles in Circuit. Going along the shore to our great amazement we found four Bodies of Men that had but newly been murthered, having their throats cut, we sup­posed them to be Anglers, seeing Fishing Canes and other Imple­ments about them. However, we thinking it for two reasons unsafe for us to stay there any longer, made all the hast we could to get out [Page 270] of the way. This Lake as we afterwards understood was very plen­tifull of many kinds of delicate Fish, which are sold very dear and highly esteemed of abroad throughout all that part of the Countrey, and indeed it was once our thoughts to make a Trial if we could take any thing, till meeting with these new murthered Persons, we chused rather to let the Fish remain in their Element, than by the probable consequence to pay too great a price for our sport.

On the 9 happened a very Tragical passage at Scamachy, which, notwithstanding the horrible spectacle I had seen the Day before, made my Heart beat withrn my Breast, as it did many times after that, when it came into my mind. A Polish Woman and a Slave was taken by a Persian for his Wife. Whether she had som private Quarrel with him, or that she was conscious of som misbehaviour to him I cannot determine, however she came to my Patron the Polish Ambassador, first making a large Demonstration of her State, and of her Friends and Family in Poland, she requested that my Lord would vouchsafe her his Protection, till such time as she could meet with an oppor­tunity to convey her self clandestinly home into her own Countrey. My Lord, at the earnest intreaty of som Domestics who were his Minions, assented: but after she had so privily held her self about the space of 14 days, her Husband got Intelligence by som Pick-thank or other, where she was, applies himself immediatly to Court, where (after a litle soliciting) he gets an Order to fetch her out, and use her as seemed good to him. But considering that the Domestics of my Lord were too numerous and a little unruly, he durst not attempt to make the demand, but went back again to Court desiring Assi­stance upon which the Prince sent som of his Officers, who when our People saw that they were com in a warrantable way, durst not oppose them, nor had they any conveniency to put her out of the way, so that she was forthwith delivered into the hand of her Hus­band. The Man having as was said permission to punish her at his own Discretion had already provided a Wooden Cross, upon which, with the help of his Servants, he bound her fast, being mother naked, and with his own hands flea'd her whilst yet living. I stood my self all the while at the Door with a great Company of Men, Women and Children, and heard her cry out most bitterly. Yet none thought that his cruelty was of so high a nature till we saw the [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 271] Carcase, thrown out into the street where it lay an hour or two, and afterwards by his order was dragged into the Fields, to be devoured of the Eagles, and other Birds of prey: but he not satisfied here­with took the Skin and nailed it upon the Wall for a Monument and Warning to his other Wives, which were 12 in number, who never saw it but trembled, as indeed I my self did, so often as I went by the House, or passed by that way. It is a plain Proverb, not so common as true, The Old Woman had not sought her Daughter in the Oven, had she never bin there her self: and so the Men in Persia, The Ie [...] ­lousy of the Per­sians. or at lest about these Parts, being generally prone to Venery, and without the bounds of Continency, harbour and sustain an ill Opinion of their Wives, whom they will have to be chast and loyal. This Jealousy is the rea­son that few who covet a good name and would be reputed honest go with any part of their bodies uncovered, save only their Eies, their Face being muffled up in Silks or Cotton. Those who go with un­covered Heads, are such as we commonly call Gamesters, and pro­stitute. So soon as any one comes in a doors, the Woman runs into a Chamber and locks her self up that she may not be seen, althô the Slaves have often the Opportunity to violate their Masters Couch notwithstanding all the Indeavours they use to suppress them. Eunuchs. But the King and the Great ones of the Realm prevent that by gelding their Slaves; which they doe very effectually, but Modesty forbids me to make further mention of the Manner. They do it commonly when they are young, buying Children that are stollen from their Parents, and are therefore in regard of their bringing up, held in greater value than others, as also because that there is hardly one in three that both live and like. The price which is set upon them is one reason why ordinary Persons have them not, and another is because that if they thrive they grow very fat and lazy, and conse­quently unfit to do any service they have occasion for. And by rea­son that Women-Slaves are somewhat rare among them, the Mer­chants and Citizens Wives are mostly attended by Men, who if they have a sprightly and airy way and Carriage, are somtimes admitted to enjoy those illicit Pleasures, which in process of time they recom­pence with the loss of their Lives.

It happened once that my Patron received a sudden Message from the Prince to com to Court; upon which he gave me Order to saddle [Page 272] his best Horse: now the Saddle which he ordered me to set on being richly set with Pearls and Precious stones, he kept it alwaies, in the Chamber where his Plate was, so that I must pass through three Chambers to fetch it, but opening the Door of the second Room I found my Patroness standing naked in the Bath, upon which being in a great amazement, and fearful that this rash Action might be represented to my Master, who might make me pay for my Peeping, in all hast I retreated and offered to run out again, which she seeing, cried out, Ho! ho! don't run away, go thrô and fullfil your Lords Com­mands. This she said with a smiling Countenance, which cured me of the Palsie, that the sight of her had already struck me into.

The Am­bassadors Brother goes to Ispahan.On the 10 ^th. the Ambassadors Brother departed for Ispahan, to make complaint against the Chan, about the Money that the Ambassa­dour had upon Interest and disbursed for him, which he could not get in.

The great Slave-Fair.On the 11 ^th. of Iuly is a great Fair at Scamachy, upon which day above 500 Slaves were brought to Market, that being their main Traff [...]ic. Of these Slaves are of all sorts of People, Men, Women, Chil­dren, Christians and Pagans, Polonians, Russians, Georgians and Circas-Tartars. The Poles & Russes are commonly stole by the Dagestan-Tartars, as also the Circasses which are Heathens, for according to the Voice of the Alchoran no Mahometan [or Musulman] may be made a Slave, which mainly tends to the Propagation of Turcism. On the contrary the Circas-Tartars in revenge do steal the Dagestans and sell them to the Russians. And so the Tartars, althô seemingly many Na­tions, yet doubtless of old one People, live in constant jarrs and private Hostility, who if they had but Discretion and Conduct an­swerable to their Power, were in a capacity to subdue both Russ—and Persia. But as for the Georgians they are generally such as are sold by their own inhuman Parents, and in that out do both Turk and Pagan who will not make sale, of such as are of their own Opinion or Na­tion, much less their own Children, which is a thing so besides Nature, that the most savage Beasts do abhor it, and will as soon part with their Life as with their Young. This Fair, which, as I have said, consists most in the Sale of stollen Booty is a great advantage to Derbent and Scamachy, which of late years seem to flourish mainly, and for this reason is frequented by many Merchants, where they [Page 273] ordinarily find all things at an available price. The Slaves being brought to Market, the Buyer goes about and seeing one he likes, the first thing he does is to look him in the mouth, as we do Horses, Slaves how bought and tried. causes him to be stript, and feels him all over, but especially his Wrists and Muscles, thence collecting what strength he is of, and what service he is able to do him. If the Buyer intend to imploy him about Messages, he causes him to run out 10 or 12 Paces, others make them to stand in all Postures, and so value them according to their Age, soundness of Body and strength. If the Buyer chance to find any reasonable fault, failing, or blemish in his Slave within the space of 3 daies, he may return him to the seller and receive the value again; and this advantage has the Buyer also in most other things, or if I am not mistaken in all save damageable Commodities.

On the 12 the Calenter who is next to the Chan in Power and Office came to our Ambassador with an Order from the Scach, The Po­lish Am­bassador receivs another Order to depart. to bid him make preparation for his Journey, and in all hast to depart. But the Ambassador returned him his wonted reply: ‘That he was at pre­sent destitute of Money, and not able to undertake the Journey, unless the Chan would pay him what he was owing him, upon the receipt of which he would immediatly go, without more or further delay.’

CHAP. XXVI. A dreadfull Tempest. Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth. A most fearful Deluge whereby Houses, Men and abundance of Cattel are carried away. The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour. The Offerings of the Banjans, for the Fowl and Fish. The Religious Exercise of the Persian Women. The Author's Dis­course with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave. He gets out of the service of the Polish Ambassador. The great Bounty and Kindness of his Patron Hadzi Biram, and of Altine his Patroness. One of his Company, made free.

ON the 13 was a violent storm, A great Storm. with Thunder and Lightning which very much endamaged the Ambassadours House, and took away the Roof of many other Houses round about. The Air was as if it had been all Fire, and a Sulphury flame, and somtime [Page 274] were seen great balls like burning Brimstone falling down. About 8 in the Evening I saw a great massy lump of Fire, which made the Earth shake again when it fell, and so burst all to pieces. Formidable, I thought, were the great Ordnance in the Dardanelli when they were discharged, being reputed the greatest in the World: But there was as much difference between this and them, as there is between a Mountain and a Mole-Hill. About 2 hours after fell down 6 more, which were as big as Hogs-heads, these consumed and wasted a great part of the ground where they light. This Tempest conti­nued about 48 hours; after which followed a very calm season.

On the 15 we had news from Ardebil, how that Monsr. Termund with P. Arentsz his servant were arrived there safe and well, althô not without som difficulty by the way, meeting with some Rob­bers, but the Konjack telling them that he was sent to the Schach on an Express, they let him go without further trouble.

A great Deluge.The next day fell abundance of Rain, that all the whole Face of the Countrey round about Scamachy lay under Water, and the streams coming from the Mountains brought down huge Pieces of Rocks and Stones which came down into the Town and carried away seve­ral Houses with them, as also many People who were on every side environed with the Floods that they could not help themselves. This Tempest concluded with fearful Thunder-claps and Lightning, as if the last day were com.

Many people drowned.On the 17 the Chan had a Robe of Favour sent him from the King. The Envoyé who brought it being arrived at the Kings House with­out the City sent notice and acquainted the Chan with his coming, who according to the Custom set his House in order and took leav of his Friends, fearing that this was upon a sharper Errand than the last, the more I suppose, because my Patrons Brother had been at Ispahan to acquaint the King, that his Brother, the Polish Am­bassador had such a sum of Money due to him from the Chan, and could not for the want thereof undertake his Journey for Warsaw. The Chan makes preparation to go and know the Kings Pleasure, being mounted on a stately Arabian Horse, and followed with a great Retinu of Nobility and Courtiers, all well mounted, as before So soon as he was com there the Envoyé fulfills his Commission and delivers the Robe, after the same manner & with the same Cere­monies [Page 275] as were before mentioned: AUG. 1671. and having taken his leave of the Courier returned into the City with variety of Wind-Music, Kettle­drums and Trumpets.

On the 18 of August we had a great Earth-quake which raged a long time together, in which many Dwelling Houses, Stables and Barns without the Walls on the East-side of the Town were thrown down, and abundance of Men crush'd to pieces. When the Earth­quake was past, it began to rain very hard, and blew extremely. Supersti­tion of the Ban­jans. The same day I had occasion to go without the Walls where walking a litle towards the Fields I saw about 100 Benians performing Sacri­fices to the Fowls and Fish. They lay upon their knees and strowed Rice and Beans upon the Land and in the River. These Indians will never kill any living Creature, not so much as Lice, which althô they take yet set them down in som place or other to pasture, and let them shift for themselvs. When they see any Person go out a Bird­ing with a Fowling-piece, Ginns, or other Implements they will give him Money to go home again; or, if they perceiv any one about to shoot they will be sure to spoil his Game, by chacing away the Fowl, insomuch, that if the Party be a Choleric man, they are in danger of their Lives. The like they doe with the Fish, when they see any com to Angle, and trouble the water. When they are about to make water, or ease themselvs they alwaies look about them if there be no Vermin or any thing that hath life upon the Ground, which if there be, they remove it away very carefully, lest they should do it harm. During the time of these Festival Days, which happens 8 times a year, they will burn no Candle, Tapour, or Torch; lest Muskettos, and other Insects that fly about the Flame should singe their Wings. They have also offered the Chan a conside­rable sum of Money that no Beast should be slain during the time of these Feasts, but the Chan would not listen to any such thing. These people are also very superstitious in many other things, and withall strict and zealous. They will not use either Dish or any other Vessel belonging to such as are not of their own Sect, yet will suffer others to make use of theirs. They abstain from Flesh, and Fish, and what­soever had, or may have life, insomuch that they are as shy of an Egg as of the Bird that lays it. They are very subtle in Traffic, and in that are said to surpass not only the other Indians, but all other Nations.

[Page 276]On the 26 was a great Holiday among the Persians, when as all the Women went to perform their Solemnities at the Graves of their deceased Friends and Allies upon the Mountains, where they fre­quently beat their Heads, Kissed the Tombs and other Ceremonies more, which are all the Religious Duties their Women are injoyned to, that I could observe: for they never go to the Mosquees, or Chur­ches, nor ever do they pray at home, but leav all to the Piety of the Men, who go to prayer 3 times a day, and there appear very devout, to wit at Morning, at Noon and at Night, invoking the Assistance of the Angels. At their first Entrance into the Mosquite, they utter these words, This I do in the Name of the Almighty GOD: which said they utter som short Prayer, that they have by form prae­scribed, directing it to certain Angels, that they would vouchsafe to chace away the Devil, that he may not incommodate them in their Prayer. When they have made their Address to the Angels, they then apply themselvs to GOD, in these words: Praised be GOD, the Lord of the Last Judgement. Thou O Heavenly GOD hast power to help us, wherefore we adore thee. Help us to find and continue on the right Way, not on the Way where sinners commit sins, but on that Way where no Error is. Amen.

The next day being the 27 I presented Hadzi Biram my former Patron with the Model of a Ship and a Galley which cost me about 3 Moneths Labour. On the Ship were 40 Guns, and 10 on the Galley, with 42 Oars, both being complete, as to Masts, Sails Rigging, Anchors, &c. Hadzi accepted of it kindly, and forth­with presented it to the Prince as a great Rarity. The Prince was greatly taken with it, and asked Hadzi Biram, whether I was at Sca­machi, which understanding desired to see me; upon which my Pa­tron sent a Slave to fetch me. I had hopes that this might work out my Redemption and bring me into Favour, went without much delay to give Attendance, where being admitted and come within presence I bowed after the Persian manner, with my Hand upon my Breast. The Prince, seeing me stand at a distance, bad me com near, which I did. Then he fell to asking me som Questions as to my Countrey, and the Occasion of my coming thither, which I an­swered. Then he asked me if such Ships ever ingaged in Battel, one against another? To which I replyed, That 2 Fleets being between 2 [Page 277] and 300 Sail of the English and Hollanders, encountered each other, continually firing their Guns, and then proceeded to Boarding, Sink­ing, Burning, or Blowing up. He then asked me, why those two Nations professing one Faith and Religion made War upon each other. I answered him, that it was for no other reason than the Ma­hometans made War against each other, and those two mighty Po­tentates the Schach of Persia, and the Ottoman Emperour, professing one and the same Faith in substance. The Prince turning about to Hadzi Biram, told him that what I said was justly true. Upon this came in som Great Personage, and giving me the Beck, a Token that I must withdraw, I went away as much a Slave as I came in.

On the 28 was a great Silver Goblet stole out of our House, but there was such a narrow scrutiny that the Thief was immediatly found out, and after several blows on the Foot with a Staff, was put in Fet­ters. He was a Georgian, and the Ambassadors Townsman.

On the 31 I took a melancholic Walk through the Town, and immediatly had a Rescontre with one of the Tartars that took us and made us Slaves, he being the very Man that tied me to his Horses Tail, dragging me backwards thrô Thorns and Brambles stone-naked. I had no sooner seen him but my Blood began to boil in my Veins, and my heart beat, still studying what way to be avenged of the Villain. I dogged him so far till I found a convenient place, and having a good Truncheon in my Hand, with a knot at the end, as the Persians commonly carry about with them, with which I lent him such a Dandy-flute on the Fore-head, that he tumbled down like an Ox, upon which not willing to lose my Labour I pumme'ld so about the Chaps, that Blood came gushing out at his Nose and Ears; and well it was that I had not my Knife about me, for if I had, I should surely have sent him to salute his Grandfather: yet my fear was that I had already sent him on that Errand, for he lay as dead upon the Ground, which I observing, and dreading the consequence, made all the hast I could to get away: However being seen by som Persians, who it seems had bin Spectators all this while at a distance, one of them caught me by the Arm and with a surly look, asked me, saying, What is your meaning, Friend? d'ee intend to murther a Man at noon-day upon the Street? Hold, hold, you are not to go so, you must be an­swerable to the Governour for this Insolency. But to satisfy them, I made [Page 278] answer, That he was a Dagestan Flagiary or, Manst [...]aler, and took me being a Free Person to sell me as a Slave; and with one told them, how inhu­manly and with what cruelty he had used me: I told them also that was a Domestic of the Polish Ambassadour: Hearing this they let m [...] go: but coming at the Corner of the Street I met with 10 or 12 o [...] his Company, all Tartars, who no sooner understood what was do [...] but they ran all over the Town to seek me, and perceiving my sel [...] environed on every side I ran into a Tobacco house under pretext o [...] smoking a Pipe, paying my usual Penny: and here I lurk'd till [...] thought the Coast was clear, and so ran home. But it was not long before I heard a whole Troop of Tartars at the Gate, who were the same that followed me, bringing the silly Miscreant along with them, al [...] bloody and plaistered with Kennel-dirt, to show him to my Lord. The Ambassadour understanding what was the Matter, called me to him, and hearing all the whole Passage, said to me, Get you gone, yo [...] Loggerhead, why did you not strike home? then we had not had this clutte [...] at the Door. Hence, hence, I say, and do your business better the next tim [...] when it coms to your turn, go turn me this Rabble from the Door. A hard Task upon my Word, yet coming below, all the Gentlemen and Servant waited there, longing to hear what result I had, and understanding, what the Ambassadours Pleasure was, they resolved unan [...] mously to furnish themselvs with Truncheons and Clubs, and fa [...] upon them on a sudden, which we did and thresh'd them manfull back and sides, for we were 2 to one: The poor Dagestan that wante [...] full Satisfaction got a handsom share in the Fray, and was so throughly basted with Oil of Canes that he who at the first coming to th [...] Door, pretended that he could not go, or stand, was so well anoin­ted that he knew how to cut a Caper as well as his Companions Which I also said to a Gentleman that told it to my Lord. He laughe [...] heartily, saying, I protest this Hollander is an excellent Surgeon.

The Time drew on when all the Caravans fitted and made preparation for Ispahan, which I greatly longed for. And to lose no Op­portunity that would make for it, I addressed my self to my Patron humbly begging that I might have my Liberty, which at last h [...] assented to, on Condition I would be accountable to him for th [...] 150 Abas, which he told me he paid for me, refusing to give it m [...] without. However he let me know privately by a third Person, tha [...] [Page 279] if I was desirous to be free that I should give him a certain Present, OCTOB. 1671. which was named. Finding now that I had such means of gaining my sweet Freedom, I applied my self to Monsr. L. Fabritius, of whom I got so much Money as I thought would serv my Turn. With this Money I bought a good Persian Horse; but coming to present it, he had no liking to it, so that I was fain to buy another, which I thought might please him better; yet this he fancied no better than the former, so that I was fain to look out for another. The Persian [Jockey] show'd me another, and a stately Arabian Gelding, The Au­thor ob­tains his Freedom. for which I was fain to give a greater Sum. As for the other two the Seller took them again for the same Money, for that is an Established Rule in Persia, that when ever a Man buys any such Merchandise, to wit, Slaves, or Cattel, he may return it in 3 days, if it be not for his Turn. This satisfied my Patron very well and upon my delivering it, told me I might go when I saw conveniency.

On the 29 ^th. of October I went about to take my leav of all my Friends and Benefactors. The many great Favours that were shown me from Hadzi Biram my former Patron, and the great Civility of his Lady obliged me above the rest to perform that piece of Duty and manifest my thankfulness to them for their Bounty. When I came there I found my Patroness Altina at home, the rest being all gone to bath as they do every day. My Patron himself was also abroad about his Affairs. My Patroness upon my coming in bad me wel­com, having understood the reason of the Visit: and seeing me stand at a distance, bad me sit down, saying, her Husband would com home at Noon. Entring into som earnest discourse, she asked me what my Master, the Ambass. had given me for the service I had don him, Nothing at all, Madam, said I, but my liberty to famish, which I must certainly have don, if I had not been supplyed by your bountiful Good­ness, to whom I have made bold to have recourse, so often that I was ashamed. Well, replies the good Gentlewoman, has he given you nothing, as a Corrolary for your Faithfullness? I shall do it my self, upon condition you tell it to no person whatsoever; and with that fetched me a costly Jewel, and several pieces of Money, which far outvalued the Price I was sold for. After a little discourse she desired me to stay at Scama­chy, and so renewed what she had propounded to me at Derbent, to wit; that we should go together for Moscovia, and so for Holland; but [Page 280] I weighing the danger of the Cosacs, who still molested the Caspian Sea, durst not resolv thereupon, but desired her to put that out of her mind. She perceiving me not at all flexible to imbrace her Propo­sals, grew on a sudden very Heartless and dejected, and with a deep sigh said, Well, I find my self in despair of ever coming into Christendom, yet the Will of GOD be don: and seeing you are resolved to go for Ispahan you would do well to take your Journey with my Husband, who intends if the season prove good to set forward to morrow, very early. Incredible was my Joy to hear the news, that my Patron was to take the Journey so suddenly, who had an entire and unfeigned Love for me, as I have already shown. About 2 hours after my coming thither came my Patron him­self, who understanding by my Patroness that I was com to take my last leav of him, bade me sit down, and after a friendly welcom told me if I would go along with him to Ispahan, he would bear my Charges. I accepted of his kind Offer, with all telling him, how that I was ashamed of the freedom I had assumed to my self in being a continual burthen and Charge to him: but since it was an inten­tion of his to heap yet greater favours upon me, I pray'd him to admitt 2 more of my Countreymen into our Company, to wit, L. Fabri­tius and Christian Brandt, who were redeemed by the East-India Com­pany, upon the Intercession of Monsr. Termund, they bearing their own Charges: He made answer, John, for your sake it shall be don althô there were Twenty of'em. When all was in a readiness I went to give my Patroness the last Adieu, and observed that Tears stood in her Eies. William B. Klopper I would fain have had along with us, but he judged it better to stay with the Polish Legate, thinking to come that way, and thrô Moscovia sooner home, than by the Indies, the more because he found himself unsound of Body, and very unfit to undertake so great a Journey, and after that so long a Voyage, and pass the Line twice; thus with Tears we took our Leavs of each other, with order that who soever did first arrive at home should give an account of the last Condition he left the rest in. The same day that we left Scamachi I met with Meynder [...] Meyndertsz, who, as was said in Pag. 258, being a Smith by his Trade, made Knives and Swords for his Patron at Bachu, and had continued so long in Slavery, this Place being the most noted in all the Countrey for Steel and Iron work, as Neurenburg in Germany, or Sheffield in England. His Master [Page 281] had tried all means possible both by Promises and Threats, OCT. 1671. to make him renounce Christianity and imbrace Mahometanism. He was also redeemed at the Charges of the East India Company, and designed for Gammeron by way of Ispahan, but he being not altogether pro­vided for the Journey we could not get him along with us in the same Caravan.

CHAP. XXVII. Their departure out of Scamachi. The Countrey about Kasily described and the manner of living of the Inhabitants. A Description of the River Araxes. The Heath of Mokan, whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Persons have recourse. Abundance of Tortvises near Balharu. The Poverty, yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about. The Author set upon by Robbers. The Car­ravan Assailed and Plundered. A famous stone Bridge. The sepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail. Arrival at Ardebil. The Situation of that Town. The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirl-winds. Extraordinary good Wheat. The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep. Seven and Fifty Towns within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil. A Description of the City, of it's Streets, and of the Street of Strum­pets, who are Poëtesses and ordained to compose Hymns of Praise to the name of the Great Aly. Free Places within the City. The Markets and Shops. Sum­ptuous Mezids and Chappels.

ON the 30 dito, by Gods good Conduct we set forward, with the whole Caravan, which consisted of 2000 Men, or upwards, and about 1000 Camels and Horses of Carriage. My Master also had 20 Horses of his own in particular loaden with Chestnuts, for a Present to the King of Persia, for one having any Matter, or Affair at Court never appears before either the Scach, or any subordinat Prince, empty handed. Our way was over very high and steep hills: amongst which we found the Sepulchre of a great Persian Saint called Pyr Mardechan, being at the foot of the Mountains of Faherlu. The Countrey here about lies waste and desart, there being neither In­habitant, nor Provision to be had by the way, so that we made all the hast we could to get the Carawansera. This hard travailing was not very unwelcom to us, because that the weather was cold, althô som of the Horses being heavy loaden and tired were left behind. About the Evening we came to Kasily where we took up our nights [Page 282] lodging. The Countrey round about Casily is altogether barren and dry, except here and there some good pasturage, so that the manner of Living with the Inhabitants is like that of the Tartars, moving to and again over the face of the Countrey with their Wives, Chil­dren, Utensils, Cattel, and what else they have, and when they set down pitch their Tents all in Rows, which they call Ostak. During our travailing thrô this Countrey we could get litle else but Milk to refresh our selves: however my Patron out of his Bounty would not suffer me to want for any thing, but imparted to me what he had as well Victuals to eat, as Wine to drink, which served me for a good Breast-plate against the Cold.

Having staid one night at Kasily, we set forward and about 8 a clock the next evening came to a fair Village called Tzawaar, or Tzawat, as some call it, which is so much as to say, a Thorow-fare; because that here is the Passage which brings over the grand River Araxes, and here every one is to show his Pasport, out of fear that some Turks should slip over with the Caravan, of whom the Persian is alwaies jealous, and are constrained to take sharp notice of every particular Person. At this place is a long Bridge made of Keels, and thwarted with massy Planks, that are fastned together with great Bolt and Chains, which for better security is guarded with a good number of Soldiery. When we were transported over the said River, we took our Nights-rest in the Open-fields.

A De­scription of the River Araxes.The River Araxes takes its head about the high Mountains between Schirwan and Mokan behind Mount Ararat, running North-east till it finds the River Kur, or Cyrus, where it disgorgeth it self, about 39 degr. 54 min. Northerly latitude, where these two Rivers are incor­porated. Kur, as it is vulgarly called, rises in the Mountains of Georgia or Gurgistan. Araxes is reckoned to be one of the swiftest Rivers in all Asia, very deep and good Water. Araxes also receives several other noble Rivers, to wit, Carasu, Senki, and Kerni Arpa; About the Mouth of Carasu it is at the deepest, but about a league from Ordabath it makes a horrisonant roaring and a most hideous murmur, where it receives the floods of the famous Mochan, which River, as well as the Araxes, abounds with various kinds of Fish. The Banks which in most Places mount very high, are all grown ore with the shrub Gli [...]yrrhiza, a kind of Liquirice, as also Liquirice of the com­mon [Page 283] kind, but far thicker than either the Spanish, German, NOV. 1671. or that which is brought from Moscovia, for I have seen som of it that was thicker than my Arm.

On the 3 of November we travailed 5 leagues over the Heath of Mochan, and saw by the way many Hurdles and Boors Cottages, but durst not call at any to provide our selvs with Refreshments, being sensible of the perils, for hither are all those sent to Exile whom the Scach thinks good to banish, and hither resort all the Mutineers; so that these like the Banditti in the Alps, render the way very unsafe and incommodous to travel, somtimes surprizing and assailing the Caravans, when they find themselves of Force enough, or the Caravan too weak to withstand'em.

On the 4 ^th. dito, we set forward, Multi­tudes of Tortoises about Bal­tharu. and in the way found the River Baltharu, which for Greatness gives place to all the before named; but, for the Multitudes of Tortoises that are taken here about, no less famous nor inferiour to any other in all the surface of the Countrey. All along the Banks we saw holes and caves which those Animals had made in the Sand, the shoar appearing like a Coney-borrough. These Caves have their mouth or entrance alwaies to the Southward, where they lay their Eggs. On the Countrey through which this Ri­ver softly glides we saw several Cottages or Tents, as we did the day before, but found the Inhabitants harmless and very poor, yet mer­ry and jocund, the Children were stark naked, and the Men and Wo­man had hardly cloaths enough to cover their middle. They received us in very friendly manner according to their ability, bringing us Milk for our selvs, and Provender for the Camels and Horses, which they sold at a very mean and inconsiderable Price, considering under what necessity we were then. This day we travailed 6 [ Dutch] Leagues.

On the 5 we travailed about as far as we did the day before, but were fain to take up our Lodging under the great Canopy of Heaven, setting down with the whole Caravan, near som Water-pitts, where we found good pasturage for the Beasts, considering the season of the year.

The next day we found an end of the Heath Mokan, and had High-land to travail over, as the Mountains of Bethzyrvan, or Beth­zyrum. This day we crossed a small River (if I well remember) 12 times, having a crooked or serpentine Course, which the Merchants [Page 284] of Scamachy for their Conveniency, had promised a considerable Sum of Money to som Ingenieurs to to make streight, yet by reason of many intervening Hills, and those mostly of a hard rock could not be effected. At night we got the Village Schechmurat, where my Patron sent me out to fetch som Spring-Water: but being about half an [ English] mile without the Town was assail'd by 3 Robbers, who suddenly came running out upon me, having their Eies fixed my Armor; so that in all probability, that which I had for my De­fence would have been my Death, if som belonging to the Caravan and sent upon the same Errand, had not com in time to assist me; for I was almost out of breath with defending my self, having my Back against the Ruins of an old Wall, which seemed to be the Relicts of som Watch-Tower. One of the 3 I had wounded very sore on the Arm, but the other two breaking in proved too strong for me: yet when they say the rest com in and close up with them, thought it better to make use of their Heels than their Hands.

On the 7 ^th. we travailed over very hilly and montanous Ground, encamping that night in a Valley, which was wast, and destitute of Inhabitants.

On the 8 ^th. we came to a very fair and commodious Caerawansera, built at the Charges of the Indian Traders, for the conveniency of their Caraevans: Here we intended to remain over night, but begin­ning to take our Rest, were alarm'd upon a sudden assault of a great Troop of Robbers, who fell upon the Caravan on every side, and plundered all they came at, that was of any value and portable; and althô we had timely notice to defend our selvs, yet they had got a con­siderable Booty, and made their escape without the loss of any Per­son or the lest damage. We therefore fearing that the incouragement and success they had met with might embolden them to make up a stronger Troop, and consequently our tarrying there might be very unsafe, it was unanimously concluded that we should break up, and being fair Weather, pursue our Journey by travailing the night, as we did, and about 12 a clock came to Tzanle, which is a beautiful Town, but not fortified, where it was thought fit that we should stay till the next morning: Tzanle is a Paradise in regard of it's pleasant Situation; round about which is nothing to be seen, but Orchards, Gardens and Houses of Recreation. Here we supplied our selvs [Page 285] with all necessarys & refreshments, which we had for a very mean price.

On the 9 ^th we found very bad travailing way and with great Dif­ficulty, went over the Mountains of Trizetlu, out of which Moun­tains ariseth the River Carasu, and after it has encompassed many Mountains glides with a soft and gentle stream thrô the Valleys, till it finds the great Araxes, into which it disgorgeth it's self with an incredible noise. Near the Village Samian is a very famous Bridge, A fa­mous stone Bridge. all of Stone, computed to be 450 Foot long, and withall very broad. This Bridge we passed over, and towards night came to Trabedar a Village seated in a pleasant Landship, where we took up our Nights-lod­ging, but not our Nights-rest, for we were horribly tormented with Fleas and Lice, that being (as in Scotland) the Countrey-Plague, Lice and Fleas. which I presume comes from the Heat of the Cows-dung, that the Inhabitants dry and stow up in their Houses, to use for Fe­wel.

The next day we broke up, and went thrô the Town Kelchera, which is about half an hours walking from Ardebil, where is the no­ble Mausoleum, or Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybrail, the Father of Scech Se­phy. This Tzaybrail was in his life time a man of a mean and slender Fortune, as well in Substance as Parts, but Sedredin his Grandchild willing to make him coëqual with his Father in the Calender, caused all his Bones to be gathered together and brought to this Shrine, which was erected to his perpetual Memory. The same Sedredin, also built that most sumptuous Meschaich, or Sepulchre within Ardebil, for Scech Sephy his Father. Certainly those Bones of his Grandfather must have bin very emphatical and notedly eminent above all the Boors and Pe­sants Bones that had lay there a hundred years, that could now, al­most reduced to Dust, be distinguished from the rest: otherwise, thrice happy were his Neighbours who had kept him company so long a time, for it was hard if some Joynt or other was not canonized with the Anatomy of this Holy Tzerbail. However the Persians very devoutly pay their Devotions at this sacred Tomb, without much respect to the Matter. But in what manner those Bones appear I could not see, althô I was shorn after the Persian fashion, and in my conversa­tion with Hadsi Byram my quondam Master, used more like a Compani­on than a Servant, much less as a Slave, and was in general looked [Page 286] upon as an upright Musulman. After we had rested a litle at Kelche­ran, we marched forward, and about 2 in the Afternoon came to Ar­debil, Arrival at Arde­bil. where my Master Hadsi Byram took up his Lodging in a Street called Kumbalum, being a very fair and well-provided Inn.

Ardebil, called also Ardevil, lies in 38 degr, and 50 min. in the Countrey of Adrilegizan, being seated in a round Plain, or Valley, environed on each side with very high Mountains, the greatest where of is called Zebelahu, and much talked of in Persia for its height. Those Mountains, as they told me, which ly to the Westward, are all the Sum­mer covered with Snow; but on the other side, those that lie toward the Countrey of Kielan, the Air is more moderate and not altogether so cold. And by reason that these cold seasons do not come gradually a [...] when the Winter Solstice approaches, but casually, and all on a sudden so that there is no ordinal Vicissitude, nor can be any fast Calculation made, it renders the Place very unhealthy, especially to Strangers, who are not used to such sudden Changes. However, I would not be so far misconstr'd, as to signify that there is no sensible difference be­tween the Summer and Winter, for the Course of the Sun makes a noted alteration, and yet the Summer Colds seemingly more pene­trating than those in the Winter, for Now the Body is shut, and The [...] it is open, at what time they hold it more dangerous, but in the Ap­proachment of the Winter more tolerable and better to be endured My Patron told me that som years before he took this Journey abou [...] April, taking with him 4 Slaves, whereof 3 were Strangers and unnacustomed to the aforesaid Changes, died in this Place, but the other which had been brought up there abouts, ail'd nothing at all.

Strange Whirl-winds.But above all this are the Whirl-winds which come every day about noon very remarkable, being as constant as the Suns comming to South▪ or as the Tides that are regulated according to the Course of the Moon This said Wind alwaies rises at 12 a clock, and continues somwhat more than an hour, during which time it is not safe to hold either Eies or Mouth open, by reason of the Sand, which is hurried about with that Violence and Thickness that the Air is darkned; that very much annoy the Inhabitants, who are not only fain to keep within Doors all the while it continues, but must take care to cover all that may be damnify'd, and make every thing fast, which is light or apt to be carried away, and besides that 3 or four times a year bea [...] [Page 287] away all the sand and dust which lies about the Houses. By rea­son of this Cold, no Oranges, Lemmons, nor the Usefull Vine will take or like there, only Apples and Pears they have, which were but just ripe when we were there, and as they say have no Blossoms till May or June: but without the Mountains it is very warm; and af­foards good Plenty of the abovesaid Fruits. Good Wheat and Bread. The arable Ground here is very fertile, except where it is suffocated with the Sand that the Whirl-winds bring about, and Wheat is both good and cheap, for having order from my Patron to buy som Bread, I had 12 Loavs, weighing each 4 po [...]ds, for the Value of an [ English] Shilling, and that very white and good Bread. A great Toll im­posed upon Sheep. In this part of the Coun­trey is also very good Pasturage, which is no small Profit to the Schach, or King, who has imposed a Toll of Four pence half penny for every Sheep, great and small, that passes the Bridge which by reason of the vast Flocks and great Inclination of the People to bring up Cattel brings up yearly an incredible sum of Money. At that time when I was there, were Commissioners ap­pointed by the King himself, althô 2 years before it was farmed out, and the King coming to understand what large Profits su­perabounded to the Farmers, thought good to bring that Remnant into his own Coffers, as a Corolary. One of those said Commissio­ners, being an old Acquaintance of my Patron, told him that when they turned over the Accounts they had found Toll taken for a­bove 700000 Sheep, between March and September, which amounts to more then 26000 lb. Sterl. which is considerable for the bare passage only; but far greater is the Toll which is imposed on every Sheep that is sold. Within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil lie 57 Villages and Hamlets, and those so close together, that the Town is easily supplied with plenty of Lactuaries, or what else the Land affoards.

Ardebil is a very great Town, but not close built, for every eminent House has a Garden or Orchard behind it. At this day it lies without Walls, Trenches and other Muniments. It is watered with one small Rivulet, which they call Baluchlu, taking its first spring from the Mountains of Scamaschu, about 6 miles to the Southward of Ardebil. Be­fore the Town it divides its self into two Channels, the one running into the Town, and so forward till it finds the Carasu. This River is [Page 288] somtimes very small, especially in the Summer, but about March and April when it ordinarily rains very hard, with the Snow and concur­rency of the Water that settles off from the Mountains, swells to an [...] incredible bigness. and overruns the Banks, so that against this time they usually make a Catarract, or Dam, which diverts it from the Town, and upon negligence, or want of due Repair of the same, the Town is in danger of being lost, as in the time of Schach Abas the great [...] the Dam being not sufficient, the Waters came with that suddenness from the Mountains, that it made an irruption and washed away a great part of the Town, the Houses being mostly built of Clay and a sort o [...] Brick. In this unexpected Innundation they record many Men and Cattle to have been carried away with the violence of the Floods. I [...] Ardebil are 5 Capital Streets, to wit, Derwansche, Tabar, Niardouve [...] Kumbolan and Keserkuste: all these were very stately and broad, being pla [...] ted with rows of Ash, Teil-or Linden-Trees which is very pleasan [...] and cool in hot weather. Besides these 5 great Streets, are also many fai [...] ones, but narrower and not beplanted with Trees, whereof the chie [...] are, Bander chan, Kamankar, Degme Daglir, and Ursumi Mahele, famous (or to say more properly, infamous) for Whores, who have here their Residence, and ply all over the Town, and in the Carawanseras, and are reckoned as a Corporation or Gild. These are all Poetesses by Occupation, som Composing Elogies and Hymns in the Praise of A [...] and Hosseyn, others do make Encomiums, setting out the Noble Deeds of the Scach, and others dance naked before the Chan. &c. These of all that ever I have seen in my Life are the most impudent, and sensual, for they perceiving me to be a Stranger, pester'd me as I wen [...] along the Streets, and gave me work enough to keep their Hands ou [...] of my Codpiece. Moreover so sensual and beastly have I observed then to be by their Conversation with young-men, who are not shie, or it the lest ashamed althô at noon day in the middle of the Street, that should not willingly use that immodesty to relate all I have seen. Ther [...] are also several Squares and Plains with Piazzas and Galleries round about, in and under which are very rich shops.

The Place of Refuge.They have also a Place of Refuge whither Malefactors betake them­selvs, at the Entrance whereof is an Oratory or Chappel, in which lie interred the Body of a reputed Saint. But the Delinquent fearing himself unsafe can easily gain the great Sanctuary of Scech Sephys Mescaich [Page 289] or Sepulchre whence the King himself should want the Heart to fetch him out by force. Coming from this Maydan or Sanctuary, you com to the Basar, or great Market-plain. The Mar­ket and Maydan. On this Plain is reared a very magnificent and sumptuous Building, four square, in which, as in our Exchanges, are sold all manner of costly Wares and rich Mer­chandizes, as Cloth of Gold and Silver, Jewels, Precious Stones, Tapestry, Silks, &c. This Place they call the Kaysery. Behind this you find three Streets, almost arched over, in which there are many Shops stored with Wares of less value. The Carawanseras, or Inns, of Ardebil are very numerous, and those frequented each with a distinct sort of People, as Turks, Tartarians and Indians, who sojourn to and again, upon the account of Merchandise. In Ardebil are many fair Metzids, or Temples, whereof one they call Adine surpasses all the rest, being founded upon the Top of a Hill in the middle of the Town, and besides that graced with a pompous Tower, which outbraves all the rest in the City, rearing its Top aloft to an excee­ding great Height. This Temple is thought worthy only to be visited on Fridays, which according to the Institution of Mahomet is their Sabbath; and from hence it has it's name. Before this Tem­ple is a Fountain brought by an Aqueduct from a Place about 5 [ English] miles without the City, at the Charges of Muhamed Risa the Rochtaf, or Chancellor of Persia. The design thereof is that every one willing to visit the Holy Sepulchre must first wash himself there.