WALLOGRAPHY; OR The Britton Describ'd: BEING A Pleasant Relation of a Journey into Wales, wherein are set down several Remarkable Passages that occur'd in the way thither.

AND ALSO Many choice Observables, and no­table Commemorations, concer­ning the State and Condition, the Nature and Humor, Actions, Manners, Customs, &c. of that Countrey and People.

By W. R. a mighty Lover of Welch Travels.

LONDON, Printed for Obadiah Blagrave at the Bear in St. Pauls Church-yard, 1682.

To Sir Richard Wenman OF CASSWELL In the County of Oxford Baronet.

SIR!

HAving had the Ho­nour to be employ'd in a Negotiation be­tween an English Gentleman and the Ancient Brittons, I was not only upon the Borders, and (as it were) the Limbs [Page]of Wales, but have travell'd through the (very Bowels of the Country; in which Journey there did salute me so many occurrences worthy of obser­vation, that I could not for­bear a Description of them, and from presenting you with the (as I may say) Wallo­graphy of my Voyage.

I make bold to imitate one Alexander of Greece, who still as he went dragooning about the World, describ'd the wan­drings, and (as it were) the Tom Coriat was a silly Tra­vellor, who in King James his time beat upon the hoof about two or three thousand miles, and return'd home as very a Cox-combe as he went out. See his Travels call'd his Crudities. Tom Coriatism of his Expeditions; only [Page]in this I shall differ from him, whereas he gave only a bare Image and Portraicture of the Country, I shall draw the Cha­racter of the Inhabitants, and shall not only express in a Map or Table the meer Picture of the Place, and tell you that here stands one Tow [...] and twenty Miles off stands ano­ther, but my Design is to give you a Narrative of what I ob­serv'd concerning the Nature of the (1) Soil, and of the (2) Inhabitants, their Origi­nal, Persons, Diet, Apparel, Language, Laws, Customs, Policy, &c.

But what need I go so far as Macedonia for a Pattern, seeing we have so many Pre­cedents at home? For one tells us in Octavo that he hath been at Constantinople; ano­ther that he hath been at Vi­enna; a third that he hath been in Spain; and why may not I tell the World in a little Book that I have been in Wales? When a Fellow hath either a Maggot in his Pate, or a Breeze in his Tail, that he cannot six long in a place; or perhaps when he hath enti­tled himself by some misde­meanours either to the Pillory or Gibbet, to disinherit himself [Page]of his deserved Right, he flirts into Holland, or is transport­ed into some Forreign Coun­trey; where conversing a lit­tle while, he thrusts into th' World the History of his Ad­ventures, he varnisheth over his Banishment with the Name of Travel, and stiles that his Recreation which was indeed his Punishment, and so dig­nifies a Ramble by the name of Journey. He tells what Wonderments have surpriz'd him, what Fragments of An­tiquity have amaz'd him, what Structures have ravish'd him, what hills have tir'd him; in a word, he is big with Descri­ptions, [Page]and obliges you with the Narrative of all his Obser­vations and Notices; seeing every one almost that hath but untruss'd in a Forreign Coun­try, will have his Voyage re­corded, and every Letter-Car­rier beyond Sea would be thought a Drake or a Gandish, I thought with my self why may not I have the liberty of relating my Journey, and of communicating my Observati­ons to Mankind. I must con­fess my Pilgrimage was not far, but perhaps it was che­quer'd with as great variety both of Pleasure and Peril as a longer Progress; neither are [Page]my Remarques very solemn and stately, but yet they were such as gratify'd my curiosity, and pleas'd my humor as well as the Observations of longer Jour­nals.

Such as they are (Sir!) I humbly crave leave to devote them to your Perusal, as the most signal Testimony of that venerable Esteem I have for you. I wave your Panegy­rick, and forbear to Rhetori­cate or to descant in your Praise. You are too Copious a Subject even for the most Transcendent Oratory. I list not to display your Personal Accomplishments, which are [Page]so eminent and conspicuous al­ready in the World. I know an Attempt of that Nature would be too great a Violence to your Modesty, and I am sure too hard a Task for my Capacity. My present Busi­ness (Sir!) is to put this lit­tle Book into your Hand, and to desire you to Honour the Author in accepting, and to Divert your self in reading of it; for possibly you may find so much Comoedy in this Walk, as may dispose you to smile away an hour in the per­usal of it. The Relations are not common and ordinary, and perhaps as pleasant as they [Page]are rare and unusual. I do not know that any Travellor jogging in the same Road hath given the same Account of Things, or hath made the same Descriptions which I here present you with; so that my Remarques are spick and span new, and if they are ridicu­lous, they are not unlike the Persons upon whom they are written. For the Welch Peo­ple are a pretty odd sort of Mortals, and I hope I have given you a pretty odd Cha­racter of them, and so I think I am pretty even with them for Oddness. A Taphy is ob­serv'd to be a Trickish, Ani­mal, [Page]that hath a Vein of Jack­puddinism running through alls his Actions, and therefore I thought if not improper to sprinkle here and there some­what of the Blew-jacket, and to Merry-Andrew my Pro­gress a little farther as I went with jocund Observations, that the History might be agreeable to the Matter it Treats of. So that if a Welch-man is a Jest, as all the World ac­count him a Living Pun, a walking Conundrum, and a breathing Witticism; Then have I made one Joke upon another.

I am not unsensible that Pa­pers of another Nature and Complexion are more agreeable to that Character you bear in the World; Machiavel and Malvezzi, or some discourse of the Maxims of Policy, would be a more sutable Subject for your Contemplation: But (Sir!) I pretend not to instruct you for the Parliament-house, but to direct you by the Fire-side.

Now for the Conclusion of all; If there are any Good Things in Wales, the enjoy­ment whereof is worth the wish­ing you, I pray Heaven to crown you with the Fruition of them: But possibly it may be [Page]a Province not much crowded with Blessings; may you there­fore Flourish in the Affluence of good English Mercies; may you always possess good English Riches, Health and Honours, and all other Happinesses and Prosperities of our own Na­tion!

I am, (Worthy Sir!)
Your very Humble Servant. W. R.

WALLOGRAPHY OR The Britton describ'd, &c.

UPon the First of June 1673, having taken leave of my Friends, and recei­ved a Message, a little tiny Er­rand to be uttered by word of mouth, together with a Letter to be deliver'd into the hands of one of the most Reverend Taphies, I began to have some thoughts of rigging my self out for mine intended Voyage; and to that end I spatterdash't my Legs with a pair of Cuckolds boots, and ei­ther adorn'd or furnish't my hand [Page 2]with battooning Cudgel, and ha­ving entertain'd in my Retinue a whole Distick of Spannels.

Upon the Fourth of June, I turn'd one side upon London, and the other toward Wales; the Coun­try which was so be the Period and Term of my Journey. We travelled all that day with much pleasure, being treated as we went, with the Delicacies of Na­ture: the Air was kind and soft; the Fields were trim and neat; the Sun benign and cherishing; the whole Creation was obliging, and from every thing we met, we receiv'd a Civility; so that this first day pass'd over with much satisfaction. I do not remember that we saw any thing remarkable, unless 'twas a Fellow driving a tyr'd Cow, whose slow motion he now and then quickn'd by wring­ing the Pendulum of her Tail, and (as it were) curling it into a screw [Page 3]he twisted her forward, and bor'd the Air with this Living Augre; Me-thoughts a very pretty trick to make a wimble of his Beast, and a handsome way to insinuate her along, and to improve her pace. 'Twas far beyond the court­ship of a wisp of hay, in regard Fear urges more than Flattery can allure, and all Creatures are more ready to ease their Backs, than to fill their Bellies; how Scorpions pretty crabbedly apply'd will make a thing caper, and increase his Career far beyond the temptation of Cake and Marmalade! and a Cat of Nine-Tails will drive bet­ter than a dish of Sweet-meats can invite and draw. This was the Method the Bumpkin us'd to ad­vance the progressive Motion of the Animal; which indeed is far different from the Custom and Practice of the Croatians; For whereas this man made his Beast [Page 4]proceed by thrusting at one end, the Tail; They make their tyr'd Jades jog on by putting at the other, the Fore-top. We began to subscribe to Cartesius's opinion, that Animals were Engins; For 'tis like, the Clock-work of the Cow was somewhat disorder'd, and the Machine (like a Jack) was run down and (rood still, till this Artist wound it up, and set the movements a going.

Being indifferently refresht by the vertue of that Passage, we went forward very couragiously, and after a little time were pre­sented with the prospect of ano­ther Scene, which was laid in a Meddow by a River-side, where we overtook a Rat-catcher and a Fisherman disputing Precedency, and the Preheminency of their Professions: The Rat-catcher ar­gu'd that his Calling was most wor­thy, in regard the object of his [Page 5]Art was a vocal Creature, whereas that of the Fisherman's was dumb and silent; besides Rats are edu­cated in Courts and Palaces, are more choicely bred, and have a more delicate diet, than Fish, to feed on; Plentiful Reversions of Rost and Boyl'd, luxurious frag­ments, and the magnificent ruine: of Pudding and Pasty are their common dishes; only sometimes they pop on a piece of Bread and Butter not of so wholsome a re­lish, that is, a little Arsenick spread for [...]um on the trencher of a Chip, these are the Viands of this do­mestick Vermin; whereas Worms and Flies, and vile Insects, and perhaps a hook to boot, are the best Fare that is eaten by Fishes. The Fisherman reply'd, that Fish themselves were food for men, but it was never known that Rats were in season, unless in the extremity of a Siege or Famine.

We left these Fellows very hot in controversy, which could not be decided, and pass'd on, till at length we arrived to a little knot, or Asterism of houses standing, or rather lying on the Crump of a Hill, rais'd somewhat proudly above the ordinary level; and methoughts, lookt down with somewhat of Disdain upon the Humble Val­lies. Who was the Founder of this Hamlet is not certainly known, but we perceiv'd the Thacker had been a great Benefactor. As for the Nativity of the Place, the Foundation was laid under an un­fortunate Configuration of the Hea­vens: so that the Tinkers and Cob­lers, and the dregs of mankind that dwelt there, expected not Prosperity, nor hop'd to be ad­vanc'd and sublimated into the Flower of the People. The main stress of Government lay upon the shoulder of a single man, who was a [Page 7] Bear-ward by Office, and being the most substantial Person was thought fit to be invested with the sole Authority of the Town­ship; A most proper Magistrate for such wild Savages! We ob­serv'd that this Village had as ma­ny ways into it, as it had ways out of it, which were equal in number to the Points of the Com­pass. The purling Brook that crawl'd by it, the reeking Dung­hill that breath'd within it, the crook-back'd Elm that stands cring­ing near it, and the Pack- saddle Steeple that stood squinting over it, made a pretty Draught of an handsome Landskip.

The Inhabitants of this place were much addicted to the vice of Stealing; every thing sticks to their Pitchy Fingers, and they have such an attractive vertue, that, wherever they come, all things trot after the Magnetism of their [Page 8]Persons. A Fellow squotting up­on a criket in a room we were in, and rising up from his seat, the stool on a sudden (as if tackt to his A—) immediately marcht after him, to the great amazement of the woman of the house, who did not suspect that his Bum had hands, or that her Stool so nim­bly could have us'd its legs. Ano­ther espying a Cylinder of Bag­pudding pretty thick in the wast lolling upon the table, whilst the Hostess turn'd her back, in the very twinkling of her head, pocuss'd it into Fob, and so shrowded its Dimensions into a second Bag.

The approaching night and our wearied limbs compell'd us to lodge among these Tenements; Having almost worn out our selves by tedious Travel, we resolv'd here to repair our breeches: But (alas!) this mending (I allude to [Page 9] Taylourism) was little better than meer Botching. For, whereas we thought to have renew'd nature, and to have recreated our Pa­lates with the pleasant whole­someness of Rural Delicacies, we could scarce so much as even patch her up with the hurden Accomo­dations of a red-lattic'd Inn; The foretop of a Carrot, and a few parcht Pease were our choicest Provender, which fill'd our ca­vities so full of wind, that we thought we had got the Four Quarters in our Bellys, which made such Squibs of our Breeches, that (like the fifth of November) we were continually discharging of Rockets and Crackers.

The next day dress'd with Au­rora, nay before she had put on her Indian gown, we set out with the Sun, who bearing us company but a little while withdrew into an apartment behind a cloud, at [Page 10]whose absence the Heavens frown­ing and contracting their brows, did presently fall a crying and wept such plentiful showers of tears, that they moistn'd our skins with the Deluge of their Grief. But that which terrify'd us most of all, was water which we saw of seve­ral colours, sometimes red, and sometimes black; which put us in mind of those Prodigious Rains the Philosophers speak of, Blood and Ink; But overtaking a Col­lier and Red-Oker man, we per­ceiv'd 'twas the Distillations of their Buggets. But that which gave wings to time, and made it fly merrily while we were in the company of these Vagrants, were the frequent Quarrels that were broacht between them, which at length were improv'd into severe Buffetings. The Object of both their Occupations lyes hid in the Earth, and they work like Moles, [Page 11]whose Employ is underground, and (like a certain Fish) they take their colour from the place they converse in. The Collier thumpt with tincturing-fist the Red-man, black; and the Red-man dy'd with Vermilion-blow the Black­man, red; so that we never saw before such a party-colour'd Com­bat, such a Fools-coated conflict, wherein the stout Champions were so mutually disguis'd, that they seem'd to be Amphituo'd, and to be wholly transform'd into each others Person.

After another days Travel in Dust and Sun, we saluted a good handsome Town, not a little re­sembling in crookedness a middle­siz'd shooing horn; At the entrance into it, the uncarpetness (as I may say) of the Floor, or (in other words) the unevenness of the streets somewhat dislocating the position of our almost tript up [Page 12]feet, had like to have demolisht us, and to have thrown us down backward, but to prevent the So­loecism of kissing the place at wrong end, we recovered our fall, and went bolt upright into the navel of the Coporation, where there was such an Assembly of Provision as represented a market, which was unhappily disturb'd by an un­fortunate accident; For a certain Bull of an uncertain man having mistaken his box, and taken pepper in the nose instead of Snush, and being enrag'd and heated by the vertue of the Spice, took a risk about the Cross, and emptied by his Ramble all Stalls and Panniers; so that this Brisk Customer made a scrambling kind of Dinner for the whole Country; who was riding upon one anothers backs for Vi­ands and Booty, and was tum­bling among the ruins of Bakers, Victuallers, and Costermongers. [Page 13]We were inform'd that this Town was much infested with the un­welcome Visitants, Rats and Mice; insomuch that the Inhabitants have a Rat-catcher at a certain Pension, as the only Talis-man against such noxious Vermin.

Having left this Town behind us, we come to a Wood on our left hand, nigh unto which was a discontented Fountain murmuring as it run (we did not enquire a what) and bubling forth seemingly much Dissatisfaction. This wood was a promiscuous Babble of all vege­tables. A throng of trees of all ranks and qualities; we refresht ourselves a little under this natural Arbour, and being prety and cheerful in this circumstance of Place; one of our Caravan began to express his joy in some notes of Musick, who as soon as he began to strike up with his Pite (thinking he had but one) he presently perceiv'd it to be [Page 14]multiply'd into an Organ, and wonder'd (with the Bumpkin that pull'd at the Bellows) that he had so much Harmony in him. For you must know hereabouts dwelt a thing called an Eccho, who as soon as she heard but Sol, Fa, whipt! she improv'd the melody into a noise and consort: and pre­sently increas'd those single notes into the whole Gamut; and most neately play'd the wag with the tail of his voice! being a very pretty Songster, that sings well by th' Ear. But while Lug was so­lac'd with the tatling Reverbera­tion of voice, our eyes were ra­visht with a most delicate Pro­spect; For here was a most plea­sant champion piece of ground, which extending and roaming it self some Furlongs in length, was furnisht with all the Excellencie that ever commended the most transporting Elisium; the Air was [Page 15] lullaby'd as still and quiet as Dor­mant Infant; the Day was Ori­ent, bright and clear; the Earth (like a Forester) was clad in green. The Figure of this Field was a Parallellogrammum, the Style was situate South-East-by North, and consisted of a climax of three rails, over which we convey'd our selves by Elevation of Leg; near the entrance into the Mea­dow, we observ'd an hole or case­ment in the hedge, which we per­ceiv'd the Hogs had oftentimes threded; but the Hedger had glaz'd it with a pane of Furze.

Having ambled over some Fur­longs on this (as it were) New-Market Heath, we perceiv'd it to degenerate and to grow worse and worse, and (like an handsome neck of Mutton) to determine in the unevenness of a Rock, or Scrag. A little while after we winded a Cordwainer, who (as he [Page 16]told us) was newly recover'd from a sad mischance; For walking care­lessly, one day he happen'd to have a fall, and to squot his Breech upon an Hedg-hog, which he carry'd away as cleverly, (it clinging to his Buttocks) as if he had sate up­on a ball of his wax; whether there is a simpathy between a Shooma­kers tail, and the skin of an Ʋr­chin, or whether the bristles of the Creature entred the pores of his Backside, we list not to decide that controversie now; but how­ever the mortal complain'd that it was an uneasy cushion, and that that Spinny of Awls had made a cullender of his A—: But being not much concern'd at the cerebro­sity of his seivy Bum; The Ilet­holes whereof being not very deep, we went together, till we arriv'd to the roughness of the foremen­tioned Downs, which did some­what decline into an uneven Prae­cipice, [Page 17]whose craggy stairs as soon as we had descended, we stumbled upon an House, or a Dung­hill modell'd into the shape of a Cottage, whose outward surface was so all to-be-negro'd with such swarthy plaister, that it ap­pear'd not unlike a great blot of Cow-turd: This Structure stradled over about eight Ells of ground, above the surface whereof the Eves were advanc'd about two Yards, and the Chimney peep'd out about a Foot above the Eves; the light flow'd in through the old circumference of a bottomless Peck; which being stuck in the Thatch, supply'd the place of an Orbicular Casement. The Door-way was a breach in the wall toward one end, which being of a dwarfish size, i. e. two Foot lower in stature than an ordinary Man, we were forc'd to a­bridge our Dimensions, and to [Page 18]creep in. The Parlour, Hall, Kitchin, i. e. one Room within was prettily adom'd with the Poe­try of Ballads; a crippled Pipkin with a broken shin, near ally'd to a Dish of the same matter; a vocal Spoon with a Whistle at the end; and a Tipsy Cradle reeling in the corner, (methoughts) were a pret­ty sort of Goods, and not unhand­some Furniture. A whole Litter of Children was strew'd upon the Floor; only one Mopp-headed Boy was Tripos'd on a Cricket, and blew the Fire; The carv'd Man­tle-tree seem'd to be defended by a little wood [...]n Fellow furiously strutting in an Oa [...]on Cloak; and we perceiv'd the Window was en­dors'd with the Pictured of a Fly. We observ'd that the Bulkie Cup­board was a Nusance to the whole Family of Hooshold-stuff, which it had mightily disoblig'd by en­trenching [Page 19]on their Liberties, they grutching it so much room; and indeed the Table, Bed, and other Utensils have not suffer'd a little detriment by its injurious Contigui­ty. We had a Prospect of whole Territories about this Building, which though not large, yet were exceedingly well fortify'd; a lit­tle Hedge being a Pallizado on one side, and a narrow Trench in­stead of a Bulwark on the other: The Continuity of the Mound was violated by a Notch in the corner to set a Stile in; over which when we had passed, we espy'd a Bank like a little Hybla, cap'd with a Hive of Bees, which this small Eden curi­ously carv'd, and (as it were) Quincunx'd into a Knot, did feast with the moisture of its delicious Flowers. Leaving the Phylacteries of this Yard, we met the Good-Housewife of this little Tenement [Page 20]with her Tippet bristling, her Mouth mumping, and her Hands knitting; she had a Cade Lamb at her Rere, attending upon her, and a Kitten in the Van, conducting her home.

We follow'd our Noses from hence, and were directed by the Clue of a long Hedge; which after a great extent in length, we found to be Tagg'd with a rough Lane; turning from which a little toward the right, we overtook a Church standing (like an Ace) and mo­ping by it self, at some distance from the Town; which whether it run from the Parish, or the Pa­rish from it, we are not as yet in­form'd; though we have most rea­son to suspect the latter; in regard as to outward appearance the weak Constitution of the Fabrick seem'd not much to be addicted to run. It seem'd to be very crazy, [Page 21]and had a muffler of Ivy, which we presume were instead of Crutches; For whereas that feeble Vegetable is usually upheld by the walls it clings to, we believe it was a Buttresse here to support the Walls. But having sadden'd our Aspect with the melancholy looks of this desolate Temple, we took our leave of it, and shot directly down a Balk upon that prophane Town to which it seem'd to stand related. At our first salutation whereof, we chanc'd to pop into a dapper Ale-house, mightily stufft with a huge Hostesse, whose moi­sture distilling through the Pores of her Body, and being somewhat turn'd through excessive heat, struck our olfactive Nerves with so great a sowrness, that we had quite been overcome with this Vessel of Vineger, had she not too much jog'd her self by an unhappy [Page 22]fall, and spilt a great quantity of her unctuous Liquor.

The Shoomaker conjectur'd that she had lost about five or six pound (aver-du-pois) from her Rere be­hind, and presently concluded that she was in great danger of hanging all a-one-side, unless some charita­ble Person should poize her with thrust of Assisting Nose. We had scarce prim'd our Pipes, but in comes a Law-jobber, accompanied with the Bum-brusher, or School-master of the place, who after some time, took occasion to shew their skill and breeding at Fisty­cuffs, but (thanks to the Stars) without any danger to their Pro­fessions; For they did not so much aim at the head, as level their fury at each others heels, where their knowledge was suppos'd not to lye, though some hold that they have as much Learning at one end [Page 23]as they have at t' other. The most remarkable thing in this Village was a Carrot-pate house at the Po­steriours of the Town; it was co­ver'd, with Tile, and was curiously contriv'd after the Italian Models. The Master that did animate, or the [...] of this Stone-carcass (they told us) was lately dead: His Distemper was a Quarrel be­tween his Belly and his Back; the one being bursten took pet and run away from the other, so that the poor Man being at a loss for a place to put his Victuals, in, dy'd with a conceit.

S. Crispin's Disciple having a Mistress in this Lordship, and be­ing almost within the Atmosphere of her presence, began to wind her, and had a great tendency to the place where she was; so that I might as soon expect that a stone should fall beyond the center, as [Page 24]that this Gentle-crafts-man should budge further; wherefore nothing was expected now but an immedi­ate Divorce from each others com­pany; but before we parted, he oblig'd me with the Prospect both of her Person and Fortune. As for the first, as soon as I saw it, I had greater reason to congratulate my Eye-sight than I had before; for she was blest with a most ravish­ing Aspect, and a snug Face, most prodigiously grac'd with a dainty fine Nose, fasten'd in its middle; which is not like some Snouts that look more upon one Cheek, than they do upon the other, but shews equal respect to both, not at all disobliging the right by fleering too much on the lest. And then for her Eyes, they are excellent at twireing, and will be sure to keep her Nose safe, (I'le warrant you) for one looks one way, and the o­ther [Page 25] another. The Woman had a Mouth too, which was somewhat bigger than that of a Musket, though not twice as big as the ca­pacious bore of a Blew Noggin. This Mouth she put but to one use, and that's the same that we put ours to, that is to eat three or tout Meals in a day; for it seems where­as other Women often use theirs in prating and twatling, we perceiv'd that this sav'd her Mouth and spake through her Nose. As we have given you the Picture of her Per­son, so now let's present you with a Landskip of her Fortune. As for her Lands, that is, Pasture-ground, and Meadow, we could not discern, but that (like a spot upon the Globe) they took but little room upon the surface of the Earth, and (like the Possessions of Alcibiades) were but a little speck to the World. A little Muck [Page 26]would dung her Fallow; one high Table T— (to speak in the Ox­ford Dialect) will much enrich it, and an Ear of Corn will go near to sow it; 'tis like she hath Grass e­nough for a couple of Rabbets. Having survey'd the Paramour, and the Portion of this Nivelling Cobler, after a single sip of sixes out of a Tin Pot, and a Treble go-down out of a cup of Double; after a right-line scrape with left Leg; and uncouth doffing of a bad Bonnet, after slinking a Com­plement by way of thanks for his Society, attended by his Cobler­hood to the confines of a Yard, at the clasping together of two lowr­ing Gates in the presence of a Cor­pulent and Burly Elme, I solemnly took leave of my Fellow-Travel­ler. After his departure I was forc'd to beguile away the time in the shady solitude of silent thoughts, [Page 27]which before I spent in the brisker Entertainments of Discourse and Dialogue: I had not long busy'd my faculties with inward specula­tions, but I met with variety of Objects courting with their Flatte­ries my almost distracted Contem­plations. I saw Three Stones so artificially set, that they represent­ed the Figure of a convenient Stile. Methoughts the Archite­cture of it was very curious; for one stone about a Foot square, be­ing plac'd perpendiculary upright, its Northern Extremity was cross'd by another at right Angles; on the other side whereof was ere­cted another perpendicular corre­spondent to the former. The Po­sition of these Materials made a pretty Fabrick, over which a Man might commodiously pass; its sur­face was smooth, not tufted with snags, which are always catching [Page 28]and snarling at your Cloaths, to the great Disguize and Damage of your Breeches; about two yards distant there was a Cross delv'd in the Earth, which seem'd either an Argument of Popish Superstition, or a Sign or Mark of the Parish Selvidge.

Departing from hence, we mov'd through a Close very popa­lous with Mutton; there being, (as it were) a whole Academy of Sheep sizeing on a Hay-rick, not botled out into Commons, but Geometrically carv'd into good Sexangular Luncheons. 'Twas Foot-cloath'd (as it were) with Straw near five yards about, upon which were tumbling a Bag-piper, and an Ho [...]us, who wanton'd so long till (like Dogs) at last their Play determin'd in a sharp conflict. The Man of Musick buffeted the Jugler to some tune, who adding [Page 29]two or three howls to the Notes of his Drone-pipe, by cleanly con­veyance did vanish from him. The Piper appear'd of a tawny Com­plexion, his Nose bending with an Arch upward; his Eyes being somewhat hollow, seem'd to in­crease the promontory of his jetting Forehead. In a word, there was charm enough in his Aspect; He was well built, his whole Frame and contexture was sweet and regu­lar; I must needs say, I have sel­dom met with any handsomer Mo­del, or Platform of a Man. But though his Person was neat and uniform, yet his habit and garb was full of deformity, and there were as many Soloecisms and Incohoeren­cies on these, as there was Congrui­ties and Beauty commendable in that. He wore a Mis [...]ellany of Apparel, a Gallimasry of Cloaths, as I humbly conceive, 'twas a Tyth [Page 30]Suit, compos'd of various and se­veral sorts; such a Club of Raggs, and Randesvouz of Fragments, must needs be a Collection (like the Jerkin of the Jay) of several Feathers from divers Birds. His Doublet (which indeed was but one great Patch in Folio) was ve­ry heterogeneous from the rest of his Attire; he had worn his Lap­pets into perfect Fringe, (so that he seem'd to be surrounded with the remnant of a Curtain) and had thin'd his Elbows into their first Principles. 'Twas of a Mouse­colour hue, and (as near as I could guess) it appear'd to be the Result of an old Cloak; both its first Crop and Latter-Math too were both worn off; and it was so Thread-bare, that it had almost founder'd three or four of his best Lice; wherefore we advis'd him to hang it no longer on a Knaves [Page 31]back, but to condemn it to the Housewifery of a Shooe-clout. The Relicks that were left of his tatter'd Breeches were one Story pendulous below his Coat. His Instrument (like a Gizzard) was tuck'd under his arm, which by shog of Elbow, he did hug into harmony, and squeeze out of its Womb most ravishing Ditties. We made but few Remarks on the Person of the Jugler, only we thought it appear'd to be some­what sleathy; his Noddle was shrowded under the Patronage of a collop'd Hat, whose indented Margin being somewhat frail, de­clin'd from the equality of an Ho­rizontal Position, and flapping in­ward on both sides, and hugging his Ears, forc'd the poor Man to look as it were through a Spout. He had a bunch of Bibbond in his hand, which possibly might be [Page 32]the effect of his last Vomits; for we suppose having had a surfeit of Silk-worms, and a Loom in his Throat, he can disgorge more at a cast, than an ordinary Weaver can work in a weeks time. His little pointing-stick and Tin Dishes, with other Implements of his Art, made an horrible noise and com­bustion in his Pocket, even to the terrour and amazement of an Hum­ble Bee, who was rioting on the Luxuries, and was wantonly bask­ing on the Sunny Terrace of a mag­nificent Thistle. Nay, the jing­ling of his Tackle did alarm an Ar­my of Wasps and Hornets, which lay encamp'd hard by under the roof of a shady Furz bush; These made such an on-set on Hocus with their Lansprizades, that making a Pin-cushion of his Body, they stuck it so full of Needles, that the Pun­gency of their Weapons, and Ar­tillery [Page 33]piercing to the quick, made the poor fellow curvete and ele­vate himself nimbly into two or three dancing Capreolls. He car­ry'd on his back as thick a Quick­set of Stings as a Hog of Bristles. He was swell'd to a treble propor­tion beyond what he was; his Hands were grown too big for his Pockets, and could have no re­ception into those narrow Closets. The circumference of his head was hugely increas'd beyond the Dia­meter of his Hat; so that the Con­vexity of the former could not be contain'd within the Concavity of the latter. In a word, being magni­fy'd beyond the fallacy of the best Glass, his Cloaths were too little for his enlarg'd Dimensions; so that he burst through the confines of his scanty case. Means pre­sently was us'd for the levelling of this Mountainous Vagrant, and [Page 34]Hide-swoln; He was immediate­ly plung'd into a Bath of Honey, which though a present cure of his Disease and Malady, yet was as great a cause of an inconveni­ence as bad; For a certain Bear not far off got his Medicine in the wind, and came galloping for a lick of her admir'd Dainties; which when the Jugser perceiv'd, having lost through fear the retentive Fa­culty, he adulterated her Dish by a mixture of somewhat that was of the same colour, though not so sweet. The Jugler hooft it away with a winged speed; the Bear with a pair up and a pair down most swiftly pursu'd him. We staid not to see the Issue of the Race, but advanc'd forward in a regular progressive motion, who after a little time were cross'd by a Rivulet, which wrigled along with a crooked current; over [Page 35]which we convey'd our selves by saltation. On the other side of the Bank was a little Arabia of Sand, enough (I suppose) to sup­ply all the Hour-glasses in the Country, nay perhaps and that of Time too till the last minute; near this Mountain of Sand lay pro­strate at length two Iron Wedges contiguous to a Block in Felio, which we suppos'd was to be rent into collops, and to become a Sa­crifice to hungry Vulcan. There was a numerous Family of chips about it, which were different in shape, colour, and bigness, so that they seem'd not to be the off­spring of the same Parent; they lay in a Chaos without any order, amidst which confusion the un­lucky Gibeonite that hew'd them lost the head of his Ax: The De­collation whereof seem'd ominous to the Man, and made him super­stitiously [Page 36]leave his work: My self and a couple of Gadarens that were driving Swine, made a dili­gent scrutiny for the Noddle of the Tool; which after some time we perceiv'd to lie entomb'd under the Mausoleum of a good lusty shaving. We did not perceive that it was much damnify'd by its retirement, only the dampness of its Ʋrn did somewhat abate and obscure the eagerness of its edge, and the Lustre of its Aspect. We deliver'd it into the hands of its Owner, who presently fasten'd it to the shoulders to which it did belong.

After a small offering of thanks for our careful search, the Swine­herds turn'd to the left, and we wheeling to the right, after we had jog'd over some few Acres of a phlegmatick and cold constituti­on, most happily pop'd on the [Page 37] warmer Turf of a pleasant Corn­field. 'Twas fring'd about with a Mound of Elder-trees, whose am­bitious height, and luxurient Bran­ches gave impregnable security to the nestling Birds. The Diameter of a Path run through the midst, whose Poles were transverse or thwarted the hinges of the World. 'Twas environ'd on both tides with a Sea of Corn, which being mov'd by the breath of AEolus, (that Bellows of the World) what a Flux and Re-flux was there of waves of Wheat! We pass'd through this Territory and Domi­nion of Ceres with the most exalt­ed delight. How did that Goddess sit in Triumph there! What crowds of Clients bowing their ears to her Commands and Dictates? Every Land was parted with the Isthmus of a Balk, on several of which lay the Habiliments of the Har­vesters; [Page 38]An extended sleeve of a Red Wast-coat, embracing the collar of a Leathern Jump, and touching the hem or a grafted Petticoat, presented us with the Idea of a pretty Ward-Robe. We went out of this Inclosure through the western passage of a three-raild Gate: Upon which there did directly shoot the aged Frag­ments of a decrepit wall; which over-topping our stature in height and tallness, we were forc'd to add to our quantity a Nine-inch-stone, that raising our Dimensions we might peep over it. There was scarce any thing remarkable on the other side, unless a vast Rolling-pin of humane ordure. 'Twas four Inches Diameter, and probably discharg'd from a Mus­ket bore, and that near upon the confines of a tuft of Wormwood, whose bitter scent mixt with the [Page 39]unsavouryness of Excrementitious Atoms breath'd a medly kind of stink, and gave but ordinary en­tertainment to our offended No­strils. Among the Ruines of this Mound we discover'd the Snout and some other Limbs of a mur­der'd Dial; It was not so defac'd, but that we could discover in its Physiognomy some martyr'd Figures, that were yet legible, and there were some Relicks of Lines, that were not quite obliterated. Time I presume (being vext perhaps that it should observe its motions) hath set its Grinders in it, and out of envy, and malice hath quite de­vour'd it. I am apt to think that this pile of Stones stood in its Na­tive Country, where 'twas first bred, as may be conjectur'd from an adjacent Pillar, whose preg­nancy (we fancy) produc'd this litter of Stones, it being the Mo­ther [Page 40]of these rockie Bales. We advanc'd to the Orifice of this La­pideous Womb, where were hewing Mortals, by cruel Midwifery dig­ging out the Offspring of teeming Earth. 'Twas an unpolish'd specta­cle, and the Workmen were as rough and uneven as the Prospect; and the Artificers were as intra­ctable and stubborn as the Mate­rials, or Object of their Art. Two of the most Brawny Paviers stood lolling by the Mattock that pickt them out, and a single one in a decumbent posture lay prostrate at their feet, whose Northern Ex­tremity perform'd the Office of a Pedestal to the Embryo of a Sta­tue, which was but newly hatcht, and fashion'd in a bed of Sand. The Declivity of a corner near the entrance into th' Pit gave occasion to the water to stagnate into a Puddle; through which we did [Page 41]not sail, though the trajection was very short, but fetching a circuit about its shore, we went out at the passage through which we enter'd. But no sooner had we convey'd our selves out of this hole, but after we had trac'd o're some few Furlongs of a grassy Pavement, a certain Moity of our Bodies pop'd into another, and a few steps after some of our feet happen'd into a third; and a lit­tle while after, falling down, our hands were buried in two more. We wonder'd who had punch'd so many Eyelet-holes in the Earth's skin, till seeing a Robin Run-a-hole sit mumping (like a Troglodite) in his house under ground, we per­ceiv'd the Inclosure we were in, was a well peopled Warren: We had a frisk or two after the Inha­bitants of the place; but their Heels prevented our design on [Page 42]their Scuts, for the nimbleness of the one secur'd them from imposi­tion of Salt on the other. The Sanctuary of their Burrows de­fended them from the violence of all Persecutions. Their Cells were contiguous, nay in some places they had broken down the Parti­tions, and by a frequent Burglary did invade the privacy of each o­thers apartments. The Dragon that kept this Garden of Coneys was a Zamzummin in stature, a se­cond Goliah, whose hand was Quarterstafft with a mighty Beam. They told us of an Hercules or two that came to encounter this Keeper, who ('tis said) did so out-club the Yermin, that instead of an Auger hole, he made them earth themselves in the Asylum of a Coney-hole. The Burrow of the Keeper stood near the center of his Dominions, being the Metropo­litan [Page 43]Seat of that little Nation of Rabbets. The Architecture of the Fabrick was not contemptible, being stately in height, whose top was crown'd with the magnifi­cence of Turrets, whose vigilant loftiness had an eye to the security of the circumjacent Region: The biggest wonderment we beheld a­bout it, was, That its Head did not shoot so far upward into one Element, but its Feet sunk as low downward into another, it stand­ing knee-deep, nay almost up to the Wast in Earth, having as many Stories under ground as it had a­bove. Whether the Bucks or Does were the Pioneers that dug those Cellars, or whether the Architect design'd them on purpose to pre­vent the underminings of those notable Delvers, we are not so well able to determine. We e­spy'd in a corner a wooden Strata­gem [Page 44]or two, on purpose to entrap (we suppos'd) ensnaring Rey­nard, so that that living Gin, so fatal to Pullen, dy'd himself in a wile, and one Trap was trapan'd by another. 'Twas a well contriv'd Ambush, and pretty handsomely victual'd with a good lusty Tem­ptation, which so wrought upon Reynard, that he could not by any means resist its charms, though 'tis thought he was as wise a Fox as any in Aesop, whom we never met with, without a piece of Morality tackt to their Tails.

Having pass'd the Bounds of this Rabbet-Limbo, it was not long before we were embrac'd within the confines of a spot of ground like an Orchard; For the Ranges of Vegetables gave us a shrewd suspition that Pomona had had her residence in that place: Here Au­tumnus stood lolling under the [Page 45]pressure of a Burden, being scarce able to bear so many wreaths of Fruit. His Head was crown'd so, that it bow'd with Apples; so that shaking his ears as we pass'd through, he did so pelt us with a shower, that the unlading of his Noddle made fractures in our Pates, and rais'd Tumours in sinciput as big as Kentish Pippins. The place was pretty populous with Trees, the squadrons whereof seem'd to be well disciplin'd, standing in their Ranks, and as it were in Battle-array like a well order'd Army. Here were several degrees cf Ve­getables in wonderful subordinati­on one under another from the Commonalty of Shrubs to the Ma­jesty of a Cedar. Here were In­ferior and Superior, and (as it were) Dignify'd Fruit-Trees; a­mong whom there stood a Pear-Tree, I suppose Lord Primate of [Page 46]the Hierarchy. In a South-west corner we espy'd a few vermicula­ting Hops, wrigling like worms up the Pyramid of a Pole; near which stood an Elm-Tree in the Arms of Ivy, which hugg'd it so close, that it was almost incorporated in­to it by its clasping Embraces. The Posteriours of the Elm-Tree were most barbarously chastiz'd by the Prickles of a Bramble, which the Breath of Aeolus would often move with smart Jerks. One of our company taking an occasion to pass by one of these unseen Briars, they presently had their Talons clawing upon his back, and fright­ed the Man as much as the Bush did Demosthenes, which catching him by the Coat, made him (suppo­sing it to be an Enemy) to cry out for Quarter: But the Fellow being cas'd in Leather, and the Buffness of his Coat being Armor-proof [Page 47]against the Bristles and (as it were) Hedghogism of their Prickles, they could not fasten their Fangs in his Garment, wherefore (thanks to his Stars) the Man had no hurt, but was bless'd with a great deli­verance. Toward the bottom of this Orchard lay prostrate the Trunk of a slain Myrtle, and that not far from the verge or shadow of a Cops of Beans, pretty tall in stature, and well branch'd; by the Coverlets we saw there should be Beds not far off, I suppose they were the Lodgings of Carrots, Tur­nips, and of other Roots. There were Cabbages grown to a com­mendable globosity, the roundness whereof tempted us to a Game at Foot-ball; we banded them about sufficiently, and made some of them caper over a Ten-foot wall. One of the Gamesters was hat just in the mouth, the bore whereof [Page 48]being too little for the Bullet, could not receive it into its Orifice, but however it gelded and dampt its fury, so that it did not retort with violence to the injury and detriment of any body else. We had sweat longer at the Recreation and Olympick sport of Kick-Cab­bage, had not the Breath of Cloa­cina (her habitation being near) been so strong, and been a nusance unto us.

So that being stunk out of our Quarters, we turn'd our Quarters upon the stink, and travel'd over a Grate into a Church-yard: The Track of our path lay between the Mansion house of the Levite on the left hand, and the Church on the right; behind which towards the South there stood or lay (we cannot tell which) a weather-beaten Tomb, which was Mouse-eaten at one end by that Vermin [Page 49]Time, that nibbles all things: It seem'd to be an inverted Hog-Trough turn'd topsy-turvy with its muzzle downward; but whe­ther it was or not, or whether it was purposely erected as a Monu­ment to preserve the memory of those Ashes that lay under it, we cannot tell, tho we have some reason to suspect the Former, in regard there were so many Swine a digging about, who with the natural Spades of their noses, had almost made a Pit-hole for the Stone, and so had like to have bury'd one grave in another. Here was a whole Herd of Swine a rooting as if they had been turn'd in on purpose to root up Christi­ans, as they are in the Feilds in Italy to dig up Turffles. A little Wall lay sculking about this Territory of the Dead, which we suppos'd was plac'd [Page 50]there as a Bulwark to their Ashes, but it prov'd but a feeble Fence against the intrusion of the Lambs, who made frequent Capreolls in­to this adjacent Dormitory: The mound was rais'd a little, and cap'd with Turf, and environ'd with the hollowness of a good handsome Ditch; but yet, neither Cap nor Ditch could keep these Animals from l [...]ap-frogging over them, from grazing in a Charnel-house, and from turning a Coe­mitery of Shades and Ghosts in­to a Feeding Pasture of hungry Beasts.

We mounted this wall, and mov'd on towards the Western period of our intended Journey. The bordering close was pimpled with mole-hills, which seem'd but young Protuberances not blister'd into the bigness of some neigh­bouring Banks. Leaving this [Page 51]ground behind us, we descended the Declivity of an adjoyning Pasture pretty well bearded or bristled with Thorns and Bushes; and so pass'd through a Farmers yard, where we saw an Alps of Straw, with Swine (instead of Snow) a groveling a-top on't; which put us in mind of the Am­bition of Goats, who are always clambering up the crags of Rocks. The Western Extremity of the Wheat-Hovil shot directly up the Barn, an Appendix to which stood the Apartment of the Hogs, over which was perch't a Roost for Poultry.

Not far from this Country Tus­culum stood the Island of a house in the embraces of a Moat, like Ticho's Ʋranoberg in the midst of the Sea; An antient Pile, a Re­verend Nest of as Venerable a Bird, which having taken her Flight [Page 52]hath left it a solitude. The great­est Observables were a little si­lent Bell in Duodecimo, which be­ing utterly Disleepled, hung be­tween the collops of an old wall, or rather a Mortar invers'd, which had lost its Pestle, so that it was not vocal by stroke of internal Clapper, but by knocks and blows of external Hammer; within the sound of this Bell stood a lolling washing-Block; being a woodden kind of Anvil, where the She-Vulcans were hammering out with Battle-Door the Filth of Linnen, whose unctuous Distillations were the Nile that water'd the little Egypt of the adjacent garden.

Having mov'd from this Man­sion about three or four Furlongs, we pass'd by the skirts of a rotatile Engine, in shape not unlike an House, being pack-fall'd at Top with a aridge: it seem'd to stand [Page 53]upon stilts, and to be a moving Habitation like those of the Gete [...]. 'Twas prefac'd with a Portico, in­to which we ascended by a scale of Stairs. Tho whistling Wind breath'd a Vertigo in its Pate, whose giddyness communicating a motion to its Grinders, made it whirlegig the grain into Flow­er. A little distant from hence beyond a small sandy Desert stood a Village, whose Steeple was in its center, not unlike the Mast of a Ship. This Tower as to out­ward appearance had a Portly Per­son: yet they told us it had the imperfection of Dumbness; it having been Dis bell'd for some years. They were alarm'd to Church by the Report of a Mus­ket, which the Clerk (being an eminent Guner) did usually dis­charge at every mans Door. This Clerk was a Weaver by Trade, [Page 54]and had relation to a Loom, where­in he had been ambling for seve­ral years with one Foot up and the other down, and with all his treading hath scarce got cloth enough to repair the Breaches of his tatter'd Elbows. They told us that his Trade and he had late­ly been at Cuffs, and are just up­on parting, it being such a Limb-wagging Profession, that he is not able to endure the Pennance of it. This man had wonderful skill in sweeping the Church, and 'tis thought could tell what a Clocks 'twas at the South Dial as well as most Astronomers; He was also a pretty Man of his hands for sing­ing; For when the Tune one Sun­day had ambled from him into the Chancel, and had almost caught a fall among the Non-songsters; really they told us that this No­table Man gave it such a neat [Page 55] jerk, as that he twitch it into the Church strangely. Now (I say) for the Clerk to have a rare knack of securing the Hymn from those that would steal it, Oh! Tis an excellent thing! The most remar­kable things in this Town were an Ecclesiastical Wall made of Soe­cular Mud, which mounded in the Introduction of the Parsonage: it afforded secure Harbour to Va­grant Bees, who randevozing here, became a Colony; They made so many Cells in it, that it appear'd to be the Fragment a Reverend Hony-Comb. Not far from this grew a Tree in Folio, an huge, thick, squot Elm, pounded with­in the circumferences of 4 Benches, which we suppos'd to be seats made a purpose for the Posterns of Specta­tors, when Whitsun-Ale is solemniz'd with Festivity of Fiddle, and cele­brated with Caper after Pipe and Tabour.

Immediately after our Depar­ture from this place, night over­took us, whose Sables eclipsing the Splendor of the Day, shortned our course, and crooken'd our Ca­reer aside to look for a Lodging. An happy Retrospest oblig'd us with the Prospect of glimmering Thatch, which the nearer we ap­proacht, the more visibly it ap­pear'd in the shape of an House. It was call'd by way of Irony a Castle, whose Governour was a decay'd Taylor, who having lost through an unfortunate hole of his Pockets, his Needles, Thimble, those Chat­tels of his Breeches, and Imple­ments of his Vocation, was re­duc'd to poverty. The Man was nimble of foot, though a Dwarf in bulk, so that nine of such might very well club to the elementing of a Man. After a small Collation of Tripe and Buttermilk, we tript up [Page 57]a Ladder to the apartments of our several Cabbins, where with the Poppies of sleep we refresht our Noddles to the great comfort and satisfaction of our wearied Car­kasses. After Va [...]ediction to Prick­louse, the next morning we set out with the Sun, and had not went above a mile or two, but we heard the rumor of a sad disaster which had lately befaln a Country Corydon, which was the loss of a whole pound of Candles, suppos'd to be stoln by some high-way Rat at one Robbery. The Relations were various as to the manner of the theft; some say he carry'd them away behind him like a bur­den of sticks; others say, that he hung them by his side like Bandi­leers, but most agree that he laid them upon his shoulder one by one, and ran arm'd away with the Luminaries as with so many Mus­kets. [Page 58]We were somewhat amaz'd at the horror of that sad story, fearing lest we our selves should be a Prey to those bold Banditi, who being pretty greasie, seem'd to be a good handsome Bait, and so being mistaken for Rats-bane, might be pouch'd by the Vermin: But (thanks to the Stars) we e­scap'd the Fate of the Bishop of Mentz, and march'd on upon the Fore-head of a smooth Mountain, upon the summity whereof squot­ted another Hill; but it bore no proportion to the seat it sate on, being but a Pim [...]le to it, as that was but a Mole-hill to the whole Globe; it put us in mind of Pe­lion clambering upon the back of Ossa, that false Heraldry of the Giants, Hill upon Hill, by which Bunches they thought to have scal'd Heaven; the Crown of the uppermost was somewhat deprest [Page 59]and sunk into the hollowness of a little Valley, about which stood the natural Bannisters of some Thorn-bushes, whose folding Bran­ches weav'd into a [...]attice, which threaded by the Sun-beams dappled the ground with a pleasant che [...] ­quer-work, and yielded besides a good handsome shade to the pant­ing Sheep, whose Fleeces discover'd them to have taken sanctuary here a­gainst the Persecutions of the violent heat; for the Cattle feeding within the covert, and rushing through the Brake, every Briar took Toll of their Coats, and excis'd their Backs as fast as they sill'd their Bellies; on every sprig there hung a Fragment of their Liveries, and the whole hedge was cloath'd with tatter'd Fleeces, as if Wooll had been vegetable and had grown there. These spoils were lookt upon as excellent Booty to vagrant Youth, who went about stripping, [Page 60]plundering, and (as it were) Sheep-shearing the hedges: We met a crew of these Pickeering Wool-gatherers, the very Emblems of Beggery, and but once remov'd from vilest Rascality; one Shooe a-piece, and half a Hat, a Rem­nant of a Doublet, and a Moiety of a Sleeve, a pair of Dispocket Bree­ches, and a jagged Jump, were the flower of their Accoutrements, except two or three locks of Wool tuck'd like Scuts under their Gir­dles as a Badge of their profession, and some cram'd Stockins bobbing at their sides as Trophies of their Pyracies.

Some few Furlongs from hence there was a mixt Assembly of Kine and Goats at dinner upon the Lawns; their Meal was interrupt­ed by the unwelcome salutes of troublesome Breeze, whose stimu­lation of Rump did engender such [Page 61]a Frolick, that with curled Tail and toss'd up Horn they run gad­ding and bellowing, and with their vocal Friskings, with a plea­sant kind of terror, did at once both recreate and affright the asto­nish'd Beholders: The Magistrate or Herds-man, that kept these A­nimals, was in the midst of the Tumult, who finding himself miserably involv'd in a Hubbub, with furious Club chastiz'd their Gamesomness, and with mighty busling becalm'd the uproar. This Fellow was a strange Creature, wonderfully Goth'd, and all-to-be-Vandall'd even to Barbarity it self. A Clown in grain! An uncultiva­ted Boor! A Beast of the Herd in humane shape. We propos'd a Quaery or two about the Genius of the Place; he told us the Soil was cold, and big with day, and would doubtless yield a good [Page 62] Harvest of Tobacco-pipes: And as for the People, he said they were a Pan-pudding sort of People, much addicted to that vile sort of Creature. A whole Table at a Christening is spread with a Yard of Pudding, and a Balk of Beef, a Ridge of one and a Furrow of the other, which did so wonderfully work upon their Chops, and made their mouths so water, that two of the chiefest Grandees of the Town, the Hogherd and the Hey­ward fell seriously to snouting for some few Morsels: the two-ear'd Pitcher that stood upon the Bench was Mr.- Prinn'd in the scuffle, i. e. lost a Lug in the Fray; and we were inform'd afterward that the Di [...]aff lost a Lock or two of its Flaxen Periwig.

Among Rational wonders the most remarkable Miracle of this Place, was an eminent Cot-quean, [Page 63]a meer Woman in the habit of a Man, a kind of Mal-cut-purs'd Creature, an Epicaene Animal of a twisted Gender, who hath a Pet­ticoat Soul in a Trunk-Breech'd Bo­dy, and scandalizeth Virility by skill in Housewifery. He spins (they say) like a Spider, and makes his Wheel giddy by a swift Vertigo; we observ'd him to be s [...]at [...]ly in his gate when he advan­ceth up to Spindle; and indeed was retrograde again with no little Gravity. He is a learned Crafts­man in the making of Diet, a no­table Food-Framer, who buffets the Cream till he hath frighted it into a consistence, and knock'd it into Butter, and afterward squee­zes with dexterity of Fist. He was endow'd with the gift of tos­sing of Pan-cakes, and had a won­derful knack at tempering the Materials of a Bag-pudding. He [Page 64]surpass'd the Dairy-maids in Milk­pan accomplishments, and was ex­cellently qualified for a Meal-Tub Office. He squeez'd the Curds with Cheese-pr ss Bum, and kneads the Dough with fulch of Elbow. He is a Critick at sweeping, and manageth the Beesome with migh­ty skill. We could hardly discern any mote of dust, he having dis­lodg'd from Crevis even the smal­lest Atoms; we were dazled with the Sun-shine of his radiant Brass, which was exceedingly enlighten'd by modern cleansing, he being a singular scowrer, and very know­ing and able at Sand and O [...]er­shel.

This Hen-Ho [...]s wif [...]-Mortal liv'd a monkish kind of Life, being cloister'd up in a desolate habita­tion of a certain Gentleman, who, we suppose, does fee him to dwell there to affright the Mice, and to [Page 65]be a Bull-beggar to the Rats; and also to terrifie a worse kind of Vermin which we call Theeves, who are apt to creep through the Mouse-hole of a window, and to nibble away the Furniture of a dispossest house: or possibly he might abide there to repair its breaches, and to recover it from its craziness, and by the whole­some Phyfick of frequent Fires to keep it in health, and to perswade it not to tumble, but to remain still a Mansion to the Family that owns it.

We tasted here of the Hospita­lity of this foemasculine wight, who spread a Joynt-stool with se­veral sorts of Viands; which though not very delicate, yet the variety might atone and make a­mends for their meanness. Here was the Epidermis of a Hog, the outward skin call'd the Swerd of [Page 66]Bacon, which was infected with the Jaundice, and look'd yellow; here was the Hull of a Pescod plunder'd of its Pease, and corn'd with Salt, some broken Fragments of Sheeps Trotters S. Lawrenc'd on a Gridiron; the offal of a Lark, the minc'd Spurs of a Boot­less Cock, a skim'd Quadrant of soft Cheese, well sawc'd with the Butt-ends of forked Scallions, the mouldy reversion of an Antiquated Loaf dipt in the verdure of Wa­ter-cresse Pottage, afforded us the refreshment of a pretty Collation; by the vertue whereof being some­what recruited, we mov'd for­ward and crep up the Brisket of a small Mountain, upon whose sloap­ing descent stood a Quadrangular Sheep-pen, which we pass'd through, and found pitcht with Buttons, a pretty sort of Floor and Modern M [...]saick. Not far from the most [Page 67]eastern hurdle (as near as we could observe) lean'd a ruinous Bridge, which glory'd in the passage but of one Arch, and that seem'd ra­ther Natural than Artificial; for the Impetuosity of the Current having bor'd an hole through a heap of stones, lick'd it into the shape of an indifferent Arch: At the Foot whereof stood a Smiths Shop, about a Bay of watling; it seem'd to be a pretty reverend Seat as we gather'd from the Man­tle of Green Moss upon its back. Though it was cover'd with stub­ble without, yet it was pretty to­lerably furnish'd with Iron within, as thread-bare Horse-shooes, bits of Keys, some few semicircles of Iron Rings, odd Links of interru­pted Fetters, and a broken Series of a discontinued Chain. The Vulcan was in his Den, and was hammering out Hob-nails for [Page 68]Countrey hoof. His Forge was rais'd from the ground like an Al­tar, upon which there did burn (as it were) a Vestal Fire, which blast of Bellows made much to bubble up in this little Mongibel. What Cinders were belch'd from this flaming Vesuvius, whose smoak and ashes besmutted the Pluto in this Infernal Region! who having Primitive Apparel, i. e. being skin'd over with a Case of Leather, and having a swarthy Complexi­on, did with the grimness of his Aspect, and with the horrible russel of his Breeches, fright one of the Dogs of our company into a fit of sickness; we imagin'd the Cur might mistake him for a Tin­ker, who is commonly a Disease, or at least a Nusance to those Crea­tures.

We saw nothing hereabouts very remarkable, only we met several [Page 69]Mastiffs laden with the Cargo of good lusty Bones in their mouths; they were ambling eastward; a very fine spectacle to see a Regi­ment of Curs trooping along in­stead of Bilboa, arm'd with Shoul­der-blades. We wonder'd at first from whence such plenty of Ana­tomy as to furnish them, till spy­ing the Carkass of a dead Palfry, we perceiv'd they had been feast­ed with the Viands of his Flesh, and stole the Skeleton Piece-meal. A Baker chanc'd to come by through a Gap near at hand, mounted upon just such another Morsel, ripe for Collar-maker, which being surpriz'd with the spe­ctacle of his Brother Carrion, took an occasion to start, and to dis­burden himself of his Load; which sad misfortune prov'd a lucky acci­dent to the Dogs, whereby they were furnish'd with Bread to their Meat.

Not far from hence was a scurvy Slough, most fatal (as is observ'd) to Millers, whom it sups up into the Abysse of its profundity; we saw one moving a-tit-up, a-tit-up, till he flounc'd in, and by a most disastrous Pitch-pole into mud and dirt, discolour'd his Coat, that was candy'd with the effluviums of his mealy Bags. The Neck-lace of Bells about the crest of his Beast ceas'd to be sonorous, being quite choak'd. His Meal through fright and moisture was metamorphoz'd into Pudding; and spunging up the Liquor, it grew so heavy, that it thriv'd into such unweildi­ness, as that it was almost un­moveable: we cautelously wav'd the danger of this dirt by divert­ing a little toward the northern parts of this Quagmire, and so in a dainty fine Path, and that not meanly beautify'd with variety [Page 71]of Flowers, we continu'd our Journey very prosperously, only one of our company had a most calamitous fall over an unhappy clod of the first magnitude, which undermining his Pedestals, gave him a preposterous squob, his head fainting the ground first, to the great detriment of the outward man. There run parallel with this Path a pitcht Causey (as we suppos'd) about ten Furlongs, we stept into it, and follow'd its track till it brought us into the desert of a Common, not so much as ac­commodated with Horse, Tree, House, or Man, so that here we felt the rigour of somewhat call'd hardship, the Stomack barking, the Hoof galling, the Winds whi­stling, and the Heavens dropping; all these conspir'd to make us mi­serable. At last arriving to the borders of the Wilderness, we were [Page 72]courteously receiv'd into an ho­spitable Hamlet, where we enjoy'd the blessing of an indifferent re­freshment. We took up our Quar­ters here that night, and pass'd away the evening in some perti­nent Quaeries about observables in the Place. They presented us with a pretty curiosity which seldom occurs, and that was the Copy of a Brief containing the Losses of a distressed Virgin, which because the form and stile is somewhat un­usual, we care not much if we here insert.

The Copy of a BRIEF.
To all Ladies, Gentlewomen; whe­ther Maids, Wives or Widows, or others of that softer Sex, of what state and condition soe­ver, whether Waiting-women, Semstresses, Spinsters, Bawds, Punks, Doxies, and all other Petticoateers, from those who through wantonness have naked Backs to those who through want have naked Bums, Greeting.

WHereas we are credibly in­form'd by our trusly and well-beloved Roper Thwickwack of B. in the County of Salop Jumper, and Arthur Twitch-box, Smoaker, Cadwallader Whipwhop, Wrestler, Anthony Snug, Fidler, Giles Firker Bum-brusher, and several others of [Page 74]the like Laudable Professions; That our beloved Subject Mrs. A. C. of the Town and County aforesaid Dam­sel, hath lately sustain'd a great loss by a most lamentable misfortune, which on the fifth of this instant most miserably befell her after this manner following.

There was a certain Glass-case of a Gad-fly colour, i. e. a little in­clining to a Calf-dung Yellow, and somewhat of a dwarfish size, not much exceeding the stature of a Cricket; it was supported by the strength of a double [...]hong at the North-west Point of her Chamber, where for some time it [...]ad continu'd in a pendulous posture, and [...]ad arriv'd to a great repute of civility and me [...]kness, whereby it did much exceed, and frequently put toth' bl [...]sh the other Ʋtensils of her Chamber.

Now this Poor Thing, by reason of the rudeness of two lusty Pusses, [Page 75] whether affrighted at their Cater­wawling, or it being not a [...]le to [...]ear them in the Acts of Love, we can­not tell, but certain it is, it let go its hold, and after a dismal manner came blundering down, attended with the ruine and desolation of se­veral Jiggumbobs and Jim [...]racks, to the great loss and detriment of our poor distressed Subject.The Parti­culars whereof are as follow.

  • 1. The Ivory Gums of a Tooth­less Comb.
  • 2. A little Bottle-breecht Glass, replenish'd with Love-Powder.
  • 3. A Brace of blind Needles that lost their Eyes in the tumble.
  • 4. A Double S [...]ut of an Hare ty'd up with a single Pack-thread.
  • 5. The latter end of an o'd Br [...]oms [...]aff.
  • 6. The Butt-end of an old Suqar­loaf.
  • 7. The True-Lovers Knot made in wire.
  • [Page 76]8. A square bit of Tin.
  • 9. The Margin of a broad Hat.
  • 10. One Finger-stall.
  • 11. Two Tags.
  • 12. A crackt Glass with a club­foot.
  • 13. The skin of an Onion stufft with Arsenick.
  • 14. One Whisker of a Bearded Arrow.The loss of which [...]ackle and Implements amounting to a Sum of great value, we do send our Let­ters Patents to beg the Charitable Be­nevolence of all well-dispos'd Per­sons, hoping that they will be pleas'd to take the deplorable condition of our unhappy Subject into their seri­ous consideration:For is it not a sad thing to lose so commodious a Place to lay pretty things in, and all by the misdemeanour of two unman­nerly Cats? For where will this our Subject lay her Gally-pots and Sy­rups, her Gums and Pomatum? [Page 77]Had these Mount-hunters only eas'd Nature there, and then gingerly de­parted, they had been very excusable; but first to come slyly into a Ladies Chamber, and then to squobble and fall out there, and the midst of their Quarrel to pursue one another to the top of a Shelf, and there to renew the Battle again, and to box one a­nother till themselves did fall, and to demolish that very thing which supported them in their bickering; as the Fool in the Fable saw'd off the Bough he sate on. Oh! this is a sad thing.

Another Living observable we met with here was the Fragment of a Physitian, whose pretences to Learn­ing were very great, but by converse we found him to have more Stomack than Brains, and therefore was like to have more consolation in a Kitchin than in a Study; for there perhaps he may find a job of work for [Page 78]his Grinders; whereas he knows not what to do with his Books, unless he should act the Moth, and eat them. One of our Company perceiv'd his Parts to lie more towards the Pow­dering-tub, than his Pharmacopeia; for whilst he is busie in the former he may keep himself alive, but when he reads in the latter he kills his Pa­tients. We had some Rost-beef to Supper, and we commonly found him within an inch of the Dripping­pan, with an Acre of Bread in his hand, which he call'd a Sop, with which, when our backs were turn'd, he usually spung'd up the Dripping, and cheated Sir-Loin, and robb'd its Knighthood of its due moisture. A Scholar of our Company perceiv'd him to be well read in Papers that skreen the Back of a Limb of Rost, and that he found a great deal of matter in the Socks that are on the Souls of Mince-pies.

After a days Journey from hence, we set our Feet upon Welch Turf, and indeed were strangely surpriz'd at the uncouth­ness of many things that did salute us here.

The Countrey is tuckt in on all sides with the Sea, except on the East, on which part it was ditcht in from England by that notable Delver King Offa, King of the Mercians: Over this Dike if any Welch-man chance to skip with his Sword by his side, by King Harolds Law, he was to lose a Branch of his Body, i. e. his right Arm was lopt off by the Kings Officers.

Some think it had its Name from its God-father Idwallo Son to Cadwallader, who with a small crew of Brittons at the arrival of the Saxons hid themselves in this Corner. Others suppose them to [Page 80]be the Spawn of the Gauls, from whom they seem to be but a few Aps remov'd; Ap Galloys Ap Gauls, Ap Wallois Ap Wales.

As for the Inhabitants, they are a pretty sort of Creatures, which when we saw, we were so far from stroaking them with the Palms of Love, that we were al­most ready to buffet them with the Fist of Indignation. They are a rude People, and want much In­struction. For when we consider the soil from whence they sprang, and the Deserts and Mountains wherein they wander, we cannot but think that greater pains should be taken in cultivating and manu­ring, in disciplining and taming them, in regard 'tis harder for a Bearuard to teach civility to the Beasts of Africa, than to those that come from a more mannerly Country: — We do not say that [Page 81]when they are in their Countrey they do (like Bears and Foxes) live in Woods and Forests, (for I presume they have more Sun than Shade, and so more Fire than Wood) but if we agree with Geo­graphers, and are of an opinion that they are Inhabitants of a Wil­derness, and are Landlords of a Common, as I and every body else are owners of the Air, we must beg their pardon for our conceit. We have been inform'd that they were dug from a Quarry, and that they dwell in a stony Land; so that if we compare this Kingdom to a Man; (as some do Italy to a Man's Leg) they inhabit the very Testicles of the Nation. And I pray what are those but the vilest of Creatures that breed as well in the Privities of the greater Brittish World, as those that are hatcht in the Pudenda of the lesser? But [Page 82]whether Welch-men are the Ab­origines of their Countrey, as Grab-lice are the Autocthones of theirs, and proceed only (like them) from the excrements of their Soil, we shall not here di­spute. They are of a B [...]orish be­haviour, of a Savage Physiogno­my; the shabbiness of their Bo­dies, and the Baoticalness of their Souls, and that, which cannot any otherwise be exprest, the Welchness of both, will fright a Man as fast from them, as the odness of their Persons invites one to behold them. Some of them are such rude and indigested Lumps, so far from being Men, that they can scarce be advanc'd into Living Creatures; nay they are such un­manageable Materials that they can scarce be hewn into the shape of Blocks; much Labour and Art is requir'd therefore to make them Statues.

They are not much given to fighting, as by a Speech it appears that was utter'd by hur nown Country-man, who when drawn out upon some Design, began to pur and murmur after this manner▪

Hur hath worn out her-Freez Preeches, and all hur Cloaths; and now hur can get no Money to keep hur, or to buy hur some Cows-baby, and hur could hear nothing but Marsh, Marsh! and Drums beat, hur was therefore (once for all) now resolv'd to fight no longer, but to go into hur nown Countrey. — They are much inclin'd to Choler; for hur Welch Plood is soon mov'd, and then hur stamp and stare, and scrat hur Pole, and vent hur fury in ud [...]-plutt [...]r-a-nails, and will fight for hur life in battle at Fifty-cuffs.

The whole Nation (like a Ger­man Family) is of one Quality; [Page 84]for as every Lords Son is a Lord here, so every one is crown'd with the Title of Gentleman there; so that hur Countrey is a good Pa­sture for an Herald to bite in. Who can't choose but grow fat among such worshipful Genealogies. We were much surpriz'd at the thoughts of their Rank, and did not suspect so much Gentility a­mong such a People; when we saw so many Coats without Arms, we could not imagine they had any with them, but fancy'd they had more need of a Taylor than of Clarentius, and of a Prick-louse to stitch up and compose their Brea­ches, rather than an Herald to bla­zen their Families. They appear'd to us to be very ill accoutred Gen­try: But however vileness of E­quipage is no blot in Scutcheon; as may be easily made out from this following Narrative. When King [Page 85] James commanded all that were Gentlemen in an Army to pass by him, he observing a Rag-a muffin to hobble in the Rear of the Train, commanded him to be stopt, because he look'd not like a Gentleman; but Taphy cry'd out that hur was as good a Shen­tleman as the best, only hur Cat­tle was not so good. In their Travels they care not much that their Horses should drink with a Tost; as appears by the wrath which Shenkin discover'd, whom his quaffing Beast had pitch-pol'd into a River. Ʋds-plutter-a-naits (quoth he) in great fury, what cannot hur drink without a Tost? He took it much in dudgeon, that that the Jade should be so bold as to make a Sop of his Master.

They do not always observe the Mules of Justice in their Punish­ments; oftentimes chastizing one [Page 86]Body for another, and so misplace their rigour on the undeserving; as will be very evident from this following Instance. A certain Taylor ferrying over a River in their Countrey with a Diminutive Nag; the Steed never using to travel by Water, and wondering that he stood still and mov'd, was possest with fear, and made some dist [...]rbance in the Boat, to the great endangering of the Passen­gers: The Welch-man being in jeopardy, was fir'd with anger, and without any wings he flew on the Taylor, and reveng'd the in­jury of the Pa [...]fry on poor Prick­louse. The Stitcher swadled the scrupling Horse, and Taphy beat the Stitcher, to the great diversion and grief of the Spectators.

The Materials of his Apparel are usually a well shagg'd Fre [...]z, so that we cannot call it sleepy, [Page 87]being fleec'd with a Nap like any Sheep-skin: It affords excellent harbour to the Vermin of his Bo­dy, which whether it be stockt with store of Joicements of them, he commonly signifies by the Sym­bol of a shrug.

His Fashion is generally a Pair of oblong Trowzes made of a Brace of Cloak-bags, suppos'd to be Twins; these tackt together are a perfect Emblem of his crural At­tire. This Garment had conjugal Affinity to a thing call'd a Doub­let of the same Linage; a copious Vestment, very roomthy and ca­pacious, able to comprehend both his Arms in the single Pudding­bag of one Sleeve; its uppermost confines were hem'd with the scan­ty dimensions of a contracted Col­lar, but its lower extremity was border'd with the Paraphrase of amplify'd Lappets. The Summity [Page 88]of his Head is commonly crown'd with a Monmouth Cap, and its Crown is commonly pinnacled with the Battlement of a Button. Cuffs are an Innovation, things which their Ancestors were seldom guilty of; and indeed Bands and clean Linnen are an upstart Invention; being the modern effects of the pride of their huge ones, whereas Primitive Brittishness was never ac­quainted with the habiliment of a Shirt. Their Feet it seems are of an hot Complexion, for they of­ten air their distockin'd Pettitoes; and if they had any Hosen they were the offspring of their Draw­ers, to which they were fasten'd by Leathern Ligaments. The Per­f [...]ction of a Welch-mans Equipage, the cream (as it were) of his Ac­coutrements, and that which com­pleats even his most F [...]stival At­tire, is (as the Story goes) an [Page 89]old Sword of hur nown breeding, which hur hath brought up from a Tagger: And this he can brandish with much valour against the Tre­mendous on-set of Dragooning Bees; a kind of Enemy which the Taphy is much afraid of, in regard he is always arm'd with a Pike in's Rere, which once upon a time being fasten'd in his Fore­head, broacht such a Pore in his Phyio [...]nomy, that he could never endure those hum-buzzing. Shen­tlemen (as he calls them) in Yel­low Doublets.

The Countrey is mountainous, and yields pretty handsome clam­bering for Goats, and hath variety of Precipice to break ones neck; which a Man may sooner do than fill his belly, the Soil being bar­ren, and an excellent place to breed a Famine in. It is reported of Campania, That it was the [Page 90]most noble Region in the World, the Air pleasant, the Soil fertil, the Theater of Bacchus and Ceres, where they were at Fisty-cuffs for the Preheminence; but we per­ceiv'd no such scuffle in Wales; for those Deities are so far from fight­ing there, that we could not dis­cern that they were so much as ever there; there being scarce wa­ter and Oat-meal to give us being, we could not expect Aegypt and the Canaries, Butts and Granaries to give us a well-being: There is no Canaan to be found in the Arms of a Desart.

The Commodities of the Nation are chiefly Woollen-cloaths, as Cottons, Bays, &c. of which their tatter'd Backs are an ill sign of; for sure they are not so filly to furnish other Countries with Ray­ment, and to go naked them­selves.

As for the Diet of the Britton, it is not very delicate, neither is he curious in it; for if he should, his Appetite perhaps might curse his ni­cety, and by pleasing his Palate he may starve his Belly. A good mess of Flummery, a pair of Eggs he re­joyces at as a Feast, especially if he may close his Stomack with tosted Cheese; a morsel for which he hath a great kindness. You may see him pictur'd sometimes with that crevis in his Head call'd a Mouth, charg'd at both corners with a crescent of Cheese, and himself a cock-horse on a Red-herring, and his Hat adorn'd with a Plume of Leeks: Good edi­ble Equipage! which when hunger pinches, he makes bold to nibble; he first eats his Chease and his Leeks together, and for second course he devours his Horse. He never much car'd for a Sop, since once upon a time it drank up all [Page 92]his Drink, and would not club to pay his Shot.

As for his Person, his stature is of the lowest size, not above a Stair or two above one Story; and we found always a Cock-loft, and that usual­ly empty. His Face usually bubbles into Tumors and Pustles. Besides the natural Haut-goust of Body that breaths from grain, he usually sends forth an artificial smell, which you may wind as far as the Extream Ʋn­ction of twenty Funerals, only the scent is not so sweet: he smells as rankly of the single stink of Brim­stone, as a Gold finder of a medly; for a scurvy Disease commonly call'd the Scrubado makes frequent­ly an Inroad into his Person, and in­vades his Body; so that he is forc'd to choak his Enemy by stink of Sulphur. 'Tis a creeping Distemper, whose progress is checkt by morti­sication, so that when he leaves off [Page 93]his Shirt, that is, when it leaves him, and can hang on no longer, it is excellent Furniture for Tinder­box, as virtually containing in it both Match and Tinder.

The Musick he plays upon, is a Tool stil'd an Harp, that is, a Tri­angular stick bed-corded with varie­ty of extended Catlings; which he tickles with as much dexterity, as if prentice to Amphion, and draws as many Boys after him, as he did Stones; nay these we have seen in some pla­ces totrot after him; but not so much to admire, as to pelt him for his Har­mony. He puts his Instrument to one use more than the Ancients did theirs, i. e. he purveys with it for maintenance; so that when suste­nance fails him, he strikes up for a Morsel, and so lives by sounds, and (Camaeleon like) hath Alimony from Air. He serenades Victuals in every Village, as the Pide-piper did Rats [Page 94]at Hamel, and he allures Luncheons after him, as much as the other did Vermin: Here a knob of Bacon wags after him, for one strain, and there a Crust follows him as the Reward of another, one hits him in the Mouth with a payment of Pottage, another pops him in the Pocket with the gratuity of a Carrot; he is laden some­time with such plenty of Beverege, that he can't jog for his Fraught; all which variety of Fragments is the most ample In-come, and wonderful Revenue of his skill in Musick. His usual Admirers are Countrey Milk­maids, whom vibration of string doth move and stir into Jig and Measure; and whom Breez of Instru­ment (like those in Tayle) do chafe and tickle into Dance and Caper: By the wagging of his Noddle, and the wrigling of his Limbs, he seems to be taken with the Accents, or else to be bitten with the Tarantula of [Page 95]his own Musick, which hath insected him into a Galliard, and caus'd him to fig about with a Frolick Motion.

We could not perceive that they were guilty of much Learning; of which the lowest Degree is several notches above their most exalted capacity. We met with one pretty proband in the Alphabet; but for the most part the knowledge of the least jota is rare, and unusual. A Man skill'd in Orthography is admir'd as a Sophy, and a writer of his Name is term'd a Rab [...]i. The Top-gallant of the Parish possibly may be so wise in Hie [...]oglyphick as to scrawl the Character of a Mystick Mark; tho such deep Literature is not frequent amongst them. Some of their An­cestry have smelt rank of Astrolo­gy; one whereof, Merlin by name, was very nota [...]le at the Stars, and most intimate with the Planets; in so much that sometimes he would [Page 96] fling at a Futurity, and venture at a Prognostick concerning the weather. 'Tis suppos'd he was bred up at the Feet of some She-Gamaliel, being so well vers'd in the Prophecies of old womens Corns, and who could as cleverly fore-tel Rain, as the learn­ed Almanack of the most weather­wise Toe. — The study of Wizzar­dism hath also been famous amongst them; one Good man Druis was well accomplish'd in that kind of Learn­ing; hence formerly a Wizard was▪ stil'd a Drue. This Fellow (they tell us) was the School-master of Pytha­goras, into whose Breech ('tis said) he infus'd by Birch the Opinion of Transmigration. He was dextrous at a Fortune, and Old-Dog at Augury; the only thing we dislike in him, is, he sacrific'd Men, and so divin'd by Butchery.

To the Wisdom and Philosophy of this Sophy, his little Boy Bardus [Page 97]added Poetry; a Lad (it seems) no­tably inspir'd with Flames and Fire­brands, with Heats and Raptures, and such kind of Tackle that are us'd by Poets. The Disciples of this La [...]reat were term'd Bards, the great Embalmers of Heroick Acti­ons; who (I warrant you) will wrap up an Atchievement so securely in a Monument of a single Verse, that all the niblings in the world shall never be able to devour the Im­mortality of a Name. They ballad­sung the Praises of Renowned He­roes, and in lofty strains wire-draw'd their Fame, and stretcht their Glory to after-ages. They were in huge esteem, and had the Cap and Knee of the greatest Commanders, in so much that if two Armies were even at Cuffs or at Cudgels, and a venerable Bard stept in but with one Foot of his Poetry, they would have held their hands, and have thrown down their Hilts, and have heark­ned [Page 98]to the advice of his learned Dactails, and not offer to shout it till his Poetical worship had been out of danger. The most Famous of these Meter-mongers were Robbin Pleni­dius, my Gaffer Glaskirion, and of late years old Farmer Davy, and our Neighbour David ap Williams.

The Champions of the Countrey, Men of celebrated Prowess, were Mr. Cassibellane and Sir Nennius Knight, the former whereof was so Doubty a Blade, that 'tis said he con­fronted Caesar, and bid him kiss his Back-side with undaunted Gallan­try; the other grapling with the same Emperor, did diswhiniard his hand by main strength, and sent the Man home laden with some stripes, and with a naked Belt. A notable Instance of Welch Valour! To these we may add that Hector of Brittain, the Renowned Arviragus, who was so great a Raw-head and Bloody-bones to the Roman Soldiery, that 'tis [Page 99]thought he frighted them even to the bewraying of their Breeches, and made them mightily stink of a fil­thy thy discomfiture.

As for the Loves of the Brittons, th [...] Intrigues of their Amours are not a little remarkable; they being very pretty Animals when disguis'd with that Passion: They are Tinder to such Flames, being quickly set on fire, even by the least spark, which when it hath catch'd the Match of their Souls, (for they have Brimstone in them as well as in their Bodies) they are presently kindled into Transport and Extasie; and these model them into the shapes of a thousand Anticks, and make them shew more tricks than Banks his Horse. Sometimes they are shaking the Globules of their Noddle, and sometimes dancing some Geometry with the Figures of their Feet; now they smite with clapper of Fist their troubled Breasts, and anon sound [Page 100]out some Knells of dismal Groans; being variously affected according as the weather is in their Clorinda's Faces; if Aspect be clear, then is Taphy Serene; if Brow be cloudy, then is Morgan Showry. He com­monly ore-flows in his prattle about the Princum prancumness of his Mi­stress, and is witty even to a Jest on the Fineries of their Habiliments, in describing of which he is pretty lucky at Similitude, and is happy in his Comparisons about her Person. One having a glympse through the Key-hole of her Saffron Body, burst out into a Panegyrick of the Bees­waxness (as he phras'd it) of her Tawny Complexion; and seeing her Tippet to bristle into the erectness of a Turbant, he fell a laughing at the Cox-comb (as he term'd it) of her Coif and Head-gear. He seldom troubles his Madam with the falu­tation of a Letter, but usually accosts her with the Missive (as I may say) [Page 101]of his nown Person, which being broken up in her presence, out fly the Contents full of flame and rapture.

Shentle Modest! when hur see
The Fair Looks her made at me,
Hur could not choose by what's above,
But be entangled by her Love.
Hur was not think it fit and meet,
To wrap hur Love within a Sheet;
But was think it great deal better,
To speak hur Loufe than write a Letter;
Hoping her not exception take
At hur for hur Countreys sake.
What if hur Welch-man be? what then?
Taffies was all Shentlemen;
Born from Venus that fair Coddess,
And many other Shentle Bodies;
Part Humane and part Difine,
We are d scended from Joves Line.
All this Truth her dare not mince,
Being the Issue of Brittish Prince.
If should with Shenkin drink some Wine,
Her would think her Fortune fine,
And hur would tell such Tale in Ear,
That all the Wor d was never hear.
Then Shentle Modest let hur prove,
Honest Shenkin will hur love;
Though hur was very s [...]lthy fit,
That drives poor Wel [...]hman out of wit;
And if hur will not pity hur pain,
Hur will never Loufe again.

We heard of one that went a wooing with a Gun upon his shoul­der, being resolv'd (it seems) if Love be a warfare, not to enter unarm'd into the Camp of Venus; still as his coy Daphne shifted from his pre­sence, he marcht Musketeering about the Room, and most fiercely pursu'd her, till at last in the brisk Encoun­ter of a close Embrace, this warlike Instrument took an occasion some­what unmannerly to go off, and Blunderbuss'd the Mistress on her Breech on one side of the house, and poor Taphy on his Nose on the o­ther; so that being much dismay'd at this unhappy Accident, one [Page 103]serabled one way, and the other a­nother, to the total separation of a pair of Lovers, and to the utter spilling of a Mess of Love.

They are pretty devout in their worship, though the exercise of Religion is somewhat scarce, and have a pretty glowing zeal, though their Churches are f [...]w, and at a great distance. 'Tis almost incredible how far they are fain to trudge for a little Homily, which when they have expected, have been mump'd with a Sermon ten times worse. For on such Raw-bone Livings there can­not be expected very plump Parts. The ordinary Revenue of a Spiri­tual Preferment may possibly be a­bout five Marks per Annum; a Bay of Wailing for a dwelling; endow'd with no more Glebe than just what it stands upon, only perhaps it may be howe-stall'd with as much ground as may hold a Sty for the Pig, and a Roost for the Pullen. These Divine [Page 104]Cottages are usually situated some Leagues from the Temple; so that the Holy-man with Crab-tree Trun­cheon sets out with the Sun, and stretcheth his Legs with a good handsome walk, before he arrives to Pulpit to stretch his Lungs, and wears out much of his Soles before he can reach his Stall to mend their Souls. Their Houses of Prayer are gene­rally Thatcht Tabernacles, which be­ing steepled (as it were) with a Lo­ver-hole, seem to be really that what the Temple resembled when pro­phan'd by the Jews, I mean, rather the Pictures of Pidgeon-houses, than holy Sanctuaries. They are wain­scoted towards the East with little Desks, like Pounds, where Levite imprison'd for about half an hour, fodders the poor Taffies with some melancholly Tear-fetching Story a­bout a Grim Fellow call'd Death, who ambles Folks on his back into another World; a thing which he [Page 105] [...]eard from the Oracular Gums of [...]f his edentulous old Grannum, as she [...]e in the Settle in the Chimney­orner. Some of the most Reverend Rectors are dignify'd with a stipend of six pounds a year, besides the Per­quisites of a Drum and Fiddle; which well manag'd on a Holy-day, make up a very pretty Thing. Others have an Augmentation of a Bull or a Bear, which being solemnly baited about twice in a Quarter, do pick pretty comfortable Tyth from the Specta­tors Pockets, and makes the poor Parsons Purse to smile and mantle.

Their Recreations are various, but not much different from those in England; you may see them some­times smite a Ball at the Rebound, and to send it on an errand to their Antagonists, which being retorted by way of Answer, is rejoinder'd back again with much dexterity. They will bandy to and fro this mis­side Globule, and shittle-cock it to each [Page 106]other with great celerity. Their Lungs are pretty good at a Bubble in the Air, which Meteor arising from the Womb of a Wallnut-shell, they will make fly through the Welkin on the Wings of their Breaths, and for a considerable time, by the Blasts of their Mouths, will support the Be­ing of those Emblems of Mortality.

In the whity-brown Evening, or in the Twilight, they run hobbling a­bout their Common with Kites at their heels, certain Comets of Paper, which they tow along with a tall string, and make themselves merry with the length of their Tails, which are a large Series of jaggd Tossels, rag'd with a Candle, as with the twinkling of a Star. Happy is the Man amongst them that can most discreetly manage this Artificial Planet; and he is presently dub'd the very Pha [...]ton of their Countrey, that can most swiftly career it with this little lanthorn'd Phoebus. The [Page 107] Scrubs want Candle on Earth, and yet they must needs be sticking up Lights in the Socket of Heaven; there's scarce half a pound in a Lordship either to scare away dark­ness or to work by, and yet these Rascals (forsooth) will be studding the Skie with Luminaries to play by. — As for true and real Hunting, there is no such thing among them; only they have (as it were) the Pi­cture and some kind of resemblance of that Pastime; for their Principa­lity affording them but few Hares, they course a Lock of Hay in lieu thereof, and Alloo the Puss of a good nimble wisp. The whim of it is this; when they have a mind to refresh themselves with somewhat that is a kin to, or with an Idea of Hunting, they make diligent search for a Furlong or two of smooth and champion ground, which at last be­ing found, they purchase a Bundle of the swiftest Hay, (if Irish, 'tis the [Page 108]better, for there are the best Run­ners of all sorts) this they expose to the Fans of Aeolus, which being presently started by force of puff, it feuds away, and the Dogs pursue it with mighty speed. In rainy wea­ther they have also their In-door Divertisements as well as other Nations, such as Rump pressing, Hot­cockles, Chap-smutting, Snap-apple, and the like. Some are cunning at the Cockall, not so much for picking off the meat (though they are good at that too) as at throwing it with accuracy, and checquering the sport with variety of Tumble.

As far as we could perceive, they love Holy-day Fingers, and care not much for encumbring them with that Inconvenience call'd [...]ork. They can (Shepherd like) lo [...] upon a crook pretty handsomely in the Field, and can discharge a superin­tendency over the Goats. They are most accomplish'd Drov [...]rs, to [Page 109]which laudable Function they are so naturally prone, that they are apt to drive sometimes more than their own.

They are much addicted to the sin of Nastiness, wallowing in filthi­ness like so many Swine; so that the whole Province seems to be but a general Sty. You may swear they are made of Earth without a Me­taphor; appearing like so many Dirt-Images, o [...] like that of Prome­theus made of clay. The meaner sort of Women are generally such Drag­gle-Tails, that the Cattle in their Bosoms are quag-mir'd in the filth of their well-gleb'd Attire; so that the frisking Fleas are so far from Levalto's, that we are verily per­swaded they can scarce pull out Pro­boscis, and their Feet from the Bogs.

The Tenements they live in are sutable to the Guests that possess them; for as these seem to be Dirt moulded into Men, so those are the [Page 110]same matter kneaded into Houses; they are usually very Humble Cotta­ges, and low in stature, so that a Man may ride upon the Ridge, and yet have his Legs hang in the Dirt; those that are so magnificent as to be cre­sted with a Chimney, are mightily valu'd, as most Cocking Fabricks. We were not so vain as to expect very splendid Furniture in such contemptible Hutts; but we soon perceiv'd what Utensils were most necessary; a Dish-clout and a Bee­some, and such cleansing Implements are very proper to correct the fil­thinness of their Mansions; we found no Apartments in these their Habi­tations, every Edifice being a Noahs Ark, where a Promiscuous Family, a Miscellaneous Heap of all kind of Creatures did converse together in one Room; the Pigs and the Pullen and other Brutes either truckling under, or lying at the Beds-feet of the little more refin'd, yet their [Page 111] Brother Animals. The Countrey is fortifi'd in some places with a pretty sprinkling of Castles, which whether they naturally grew out of the Rocks, or were artificially ingrafted there, may be a matter of dispute; some fancy'd them to be Stone-pits shot up into th' Air, which repre­sent the Figure of vast Buildings.

Wales is the most monstrous Limb in the whole Body of Geography, for 'tis generally reported to be without a middle, or if it hath a Navel 'tis yet a Terra Incognita; for we never could find that ever any Man dwelt there, the Natives con­fessing themselves to be only Bor­derers. Surely the reason why they do so much affect the circumference of their Countrey, and abominate the center, is, because they are a­sham'd of the Dominion; and in­deed 'tis a sign they have but a lit­tle kindness for their Nation, who (like unnatural Sons) run from [Page 112]their Mother their Country, and when out of her Embraces never return again. A Welch-man when once abroad, hath no more tenden­cy home, than a Stone an Inclinati­on to fall upward: He will trot o're the Globe, & rather endure the in­fliction of any Exile, than the cruel punishment of being banisht home; if he is once on this side Dee, nei­ther Hunger nor Husks, nor any kind of hardship shall drive him on the other.

We could not in our Travels wind very many Feasts among them, the shabbyness of their Soil being not able to nourish and pom­per Luxury, so that a Cook, unless he exercise on himself, and dress his own Fingers, he is immediately starv'd here for want of an Em­ployment. They make some little Invitations perhaps to a Kids-head or so; and will junket with Hop­tops with brisk alacrity. Such plain, [Page 113]mean (and as I may say) Burrough Food was even their Festival En­tertainments; but as for any Em­broider'd and (as it were) Metro­politan Mess, such as Bisks and Og­lio's, we never so much as heard of them in their Territories.

Their Mart for Law is a Parish Town call'd Ludlow, where there is a Court of Judicature deckt with a Judge, Councilors, Attorneys, Sollicitors, and other Furniture which embellish the Law: Hither they trudge for Decision of Case, and here Red-coat Integrity dispen­ses Equity. Most of their Indict­ments are generally the Tragical effects of some dismal Counter­scuff [...]e, where a bloody Nose and a broken Shin is ample matter for the Commencement of a Suit; for they being of a fiery temper, some­times choler is kindled by an Anti­peristasis with a Pot of Ale; and then [Page 114]they fall to biting and scratching as hard as they can drive, and the wounds of this Caterwauling and Bickering affords stust for an Acti­on the next day; which being once got into the Poun [...]es of a Welch At­torney, is dandled into a Business of no small aggravation. Oh! How these Pettifoggers will hug a Buffet­ing, and improve a Squobble! They are the very Bellows of Contention, and will soon blow a Spark into a great Combustion. They are a kind of Tinkers in the Law, who usually make holes on purpose that they may mend them; nay sometimes they will play at Loggerheads themselves to set others together by the Ears, and so (as if fighting was contagi­ous) will infect the Taphies into Quarrels and Blows. One marching along the Streets advanc'd the Scolding of two Women into an huge Tumult, as Duels swell into [Page 115]great Wars; and made the snarl­ing of two Dogs thrive into an A­ction, and the fighting of Mastiffs to end in the Court of the Com­mon-Pleas. They commonly broach Quarrels, and incense the Shen­tlemen into knockings and smi­tings, crack'd Crowns, and black Eyes, into Assaults and Batteries, and all for hopes of a Livelihood that may be skim'd from the bene­fit of such Wars: But perhaps the Spoils from the Skirmishes of such Clients are as rate as Pillage from a Scotch Army. The usual crime for which they stand generally convi­cted, is that great transgression and sin of Mice, the nimming of Cheese, and the filching of Oat­meal, and of the rest of the good Creatures that are Arkt in the Cup-board; and as they offend like Vermin, so are ordinarily ta­ken so too, that is, not apprehen­ded [Page 116]like Men, but entrap'd like Rats; after which they are con­vented before the Sage Puss of the Law, which purring upon a Tri­bunal together with his Kitling Officers, doth fasten on the Prey, and doth so suck and claw it, till it hath mumbled out all its Blood, that is, all the Money of its Veins, and then wholly devours it. This (I say) is one of their offences, though not the only one; for some of them have been lasht for an attempt upon Hen-Roosts, and have receiv'd condign punishment even for stealing of Poultry at the wrong end; for Taphy (it seems) having filch'd a Chicken by the Breech, did disrump her by his Theft; and therefore in resem­blance to his Crime was almost disrumpt by punishment; so that for stealing the Birds Tail, he had well-nigh lost his own: A pretty [Page 117]Circumstance observ'd in their Ju­stice! and a laudable way of pro­ceeding according to Lex Ta­lionis.

For several Crimes they have various Punishments. That grand Enormity of Breaking-wind is cha­stiz'd there as 'tis in England, that is, the hand of Magistracy doth usually inflict a pretty lusty Cob­ling, that is, for every Report the loss of an Hair, though some that have been much addicted to that Infirmity, and therefore have been very guilty of a stink, have in­dur'd the cruelty of tormenting Faries, that is, have been pinch'd into manners, and a better smell. Artificers when at work punish any unhandsome Action by a particu­lar severity peculiar to themselves, which they call Pursing. The Ex­ecution whereof is after this man­ner: The Malefactor being pro­strate [Page 118]on a Block, two of the same occupation pull as discreetly as they can his Drawers as close to But­tock as a Spaniards Breeches, so as not to be laid hold on by the most curious Pinsers; the Pavement of Posteriours being level'd and smooth'd from any wrinkles, a third Artisan strikes it with a Rule, whose smart Application by Quick jerks makes some impression of pain, and so moves the Blood as to raise and start a Tincture and (as [...] were) the Flea-biting of a Blush. Some of the more obsti­nate Criminals are punish'd by [...]pension, but not by the Neck, [...] here in England, but by the wrists, Thumb-rop'd together with a sting of Hay, and so fasten'd [...]o a Peg; well! this is but the be­ginning (and as it were) the His­sing of the Punishment, do but mark, and the Sting will follow: [Page 119]The offending Taphy thus dang­ling in the Air, the Beadle ap­proaches with a stick impt with a Feather at one end, and tickles his Testicles; these softer Titilla­tions engender some vibrations of Body, and nimble Friskings, which are shrewdly chastiz'd by a surly Cat-of nine-tails.

The Cattle we saw most legible on their Mountains were Goats and Heifers; a runtish sort of A­nimals, of a dwarfish size, but very hardy, of a flinty Constitu­tion calculated on purpose for the meridian of a Rock; on which (it seems) they can as heartily feed, as an Ostrich on an Anvil. Great numbers of these are often disembogu'd into adjacent Coun­tries, which after some time cir­culate home again in a stream of Money; which yields wonderful refreshment to the fainting Domi­nion, [Page 120]almost sick for the comfort of such a Cordial. We perceiv'd their Herds to be frequently ming­led with little Palfries; a stunted sort of Horses, diminutive Brutes, Shavals in short-hand. They are lower in stature than an Asse, but much swift [...]r in Foot, and very strong, as it appears from their Burdens, which are oftentimes the Fortune and Substance of a whole Family; for when a Mortal breaks, he mounts all he hath on Welch-Nag, and travels under the Cha­racter of a Scotch Pedlar. We chanc'd to see a Team of this small Cattle, a rare Spectacle, be­ing (as we suppos'd) the least that ever was heard of, unless that which was harness'd in Venus her Chariot, which was a Team of Doves. These Brittish Steeds are so brisk and Mercurial, that the People would perswade us [Page 121]that a Taphy on a Tit would out­strip in travel an Arabian on a Dromedary; a thing almost incre­dible, though the pricking up their Ears, and the sticking up their Tails, is an Argument of their Metal, and may give some colour and ground for the As­sertion.

That which we admir'd most of all amongst them, was the Virgi­nity of their Language, not de­flowr'd by the mixture of any o­ther Dialect: The purity of La­tine was debauch'd by the Vandals, and was Hun'd into corruption by that barbarous People; but the sincerity of the Brittish remains inviolable. 'Tis a Tongue (it seems) not made for every Mouth; as appears by an Instance of one in our Company, who having got a Welch Polysyllable into his Throat, was almost choak'd with Conso­nants, [Page 122]had we not by clapping him on the back made him dis­gorge a Guttural or two, and so sav'd him. They usually liquefie the most rugged Mutes, and sof­ten 'um by Promulgation; melt­ing the word Tug into Tudge, as is clear from this Distick.

Still he did Tudge hur Ear

In praise of the Tirteen Seer, i. e. did Tug hur Souses with Elo­giums of hur Countrey. Whether the Welch Tongue be a Splinter of that universal one that was shatter'd at Babel, we have some reason to doubt, in regard 'tis un­like the Dialects that were crum­bled there: However, whether it be kin or no to other Countrey Speeches, it matters not; but this we are assur'd of, it is near and dear to the Folk that utter it, who are so passionately fond of it, that they will scarce admit another [Page 123]into the Embraces of their Lips, which sputter sorth a kind of loathing of our English Language; wherein, if a Question be ask'd them, they will with somewhat of disdain and choler make an­swer Dim saissonick, i. e. no Eng­lish. Their Native Gi [...]berish is u­sually pratled throughout the whole Taphydome, except in their Market Towns, whose Inhabitants being a little rais'd, and (as it were) puss [...] up into Bubbles above the ordinary Scum, do begin to despise it. Some of these being elevated above the common Le­vel, and perhaps refin'd into the Quality of having two Suits, are apt to fancy themselves above their Tongue, and when in their t'other Cloaths, are quite asham'd on't. 'Tis usually cashier'd out of Gentlemens Houses, there being scarcely to be heard even one single [Page 124]Welch Tone in many Families; their Children are instructed in the Anglican Ideom, and their Schools are Paedagogu'd with Pro­fessors of the same; so that (if the Stars prove lucky) there may be some glimmering hopes that the Brittish Lingua may be quite ex­tinct, and may be English'd out of Wales, as Latin was barbarously Goth'd out of Italy.

The Cambro-Brittons are great admirers of Heroick Actions, and much honour the Memory of Fa­mous Atchievements; in so much, that rather than a Dead-doing Man shall perish in Oblivion, they will Eternize his Name by the Monu­ment of a Straw, or some such in­considerable trifle; as appears by that Famous Example of that Saint of their Countrey, Bishop David, who being a pert fighter, and having soundly basted and [Page 125]swadled their Foes, is at this day consecrated to Posterity by the Trophy of a Leek; and smells as rank of Renown from that Vege­table Preservative that Embalms his Fame, as they do of a Scullion that carry it about for his Glory. Their Hats are set with this Ani­versary Badge and Emblem of Ho­nour, and triumph on the first of March; which Day hath been christen'd by his Name, and being Dub'd an Holy-day, hath worn yearly in the Almanack a Scarlet Letter.

There is one thing more also ve­ry observable among them, and that is, that of all the maim'd Persons that ever we read of, we find none comparable for nimble­ness to a Cambrian Cripple; a preg­nant Proof whereof was present­ed to us in this following Instance; A Fellow with Crutches mov'd by [Page 126] Protrusion in a certain Wheel-bar­row, espying a Bear near the Rere of the Thruster, was so surpriz'd with horror at this tremendous sight, that he pack'd up his Pede­stals, i. e. tuck'd his Oaken Shins to the Zodiack of his Girdle, and away he fled; Bruin and the Pro­trusor in vain troop'd after him, who led them a risk with such winged speed, that they could never o're take him; He clearly out-stript them, to the Eternal Glory and Renown of Welch Lame­ness.

These are some of the choicest Observations we made when con­versant among the Brittish Moun­tains; we might easily have ad­ded more, (the whole Nation in­deed being but on [...] grand Remark) had not the suddenness of our Return prevented us. If it should chance to be our Lot to set our [Page 127]Feet on that Soil a second time, we shall venture to present ano­ther Show of it; for 'tis pity such a rare sight as Wales should want a Trumpet, nay and a Fool too to proclaim and expose it to the World.

After we had cram'd our Budget with these few Notices, we jog'd on with our Fraught to the Brink of the Sea, where mounted on a Pinnace we rode to Bristol, from whence with all possible speed we trudg'd in a few days to the Metropolis of the Nation call'd London.

FINIS.

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