THE fourteenth of August we took Post for Har­wich, Anno 1695. where we arriv'd in the Evening; it rain'd from seven till two next Morning, so that we could not get on board the Pacquet-Boat that Night, but at four the next Morning we embark'd, and were immediate­ly under Sail, the Wind very fair, being West-Nor-West, it blew a fresh Gale, and continu'd with [Page 2]little variation till the next Day when we arriv'd at Helovet slyice about eight in the Morning, ha­ving had a very good Passage, being but twenty eight hours on the Water. We staid here that whole day, which we spent in walking up and down and view­ing the Fortifications of that Place, which are pretty strong, towards the River, tho' there's a very small Guard kept here; the Water is deep here, and hi­ther they bring their biggest Men of War, which are built at Rotterdam, and lay them up, ha­ving a very good Harbor, a­mongst others was a Ship of 112 Guns, call'd the Prince of Orange which was never at Sea, being Crank-sided, as the Tar­paulins call it; that is, would not bear Sail well. This is a lowsie, [Page 3]sorry Village, and a very cut­throat Place, for they make us pay what they please; but, in­deed, 'tis no other than all the Sea-Ports ever did and will do, as well in England and France, as Holland, tho' here all Places are alike; 'tis a pretty, neat, well­built Place, Houses of Brick, and uniform; here they have Maga­zines of Naval Stores. Our Pac­quet-Boats formerly went to the Briel, but now being bigger, of greater force, because of the War, and drawing more Water, they come to this Place, as do the Men of War that convoy his Majesty to and from Holland. We had little to remarque here More than what is mention'd, only a pleasant Adventure, of a parcel of English Gentlemen that had never been abroad be­fore, [Page 4]when they first came on shore here, they went to the best House for Accomodation, and immediately fell to kissing and feeling the Maids, which is not so customary here, as at home, the Servants would not come near 'em, but sputter'd in Dutch, which they understood not, the Mistress did so too, the mad En­glish Sparks they swore, and huft, they'd be gone out of the House, which they did, but they would not receive them at any other, so they came back again, and gave us opportunity to laugh at 'em; we told them their Frolicks would not go down in this Country. Hence we went by Land to the Briel in a Waggon, which is very un­easie, and noisie too, for our Heads were hardly settled after [Page 5]the tossing we had at Sea, where most of us clean'd our Stomachs very well, but these Waggons rattle and make such a noise, that almost made our Heads ake; they drive with a pair of Horses a-brest, without Harness, but in ordinary Geers, and travel con­stantly three mile an hour, not more, nor less, which makes them reckon the Distances of Places by the Hour, and not by the League, or Mile. This Town lies about half a League from the mouth of the Maese, (a famous River, like our Thames) 'tis well fortified, pret­ty well peopled, about three thousand Families, Houses in­differently well built, Streets well pav'd, cleanly and broad; Canals run through part of it, with rows of Trees on each [Page 6]side, pleasant Meadows lie about it, but the Air is not healthful, being thick and foggy, and too near the Sea. Here was the Foundation of this famous Com­monwealth laid, for this was the first Place that revolted a­gainst Spain, her ancient Lord, in the Year 1572. It is of great Consequence, having the com­mand of all Ships and Vessels, in their Passage to Rotterdam, &c. It was one of the Cautionary Towns put in the Possession of Queen Elizabeth, and restor'd to the Hollanders by King James the First, her Successor. We staid two Days here, walking a­bout and viewing the Fortifica­tions, and the whole City, which is but small; the Walls are part Brick, part Earth, two English Miles in Circumference; there [Page 7]are several Pieces of Brass Can­non mounted upon Carriages upon all the Points; four Gates, with two Draw-Bridges to each, and Bulwarks to plant Cannon upon; there has been four Ravelins, and some Out-works, but we could see but one stand­ing, which by the Form we guess'd to be so, for 'tis out of repair, and so is the whole Wall, which, in a War with En­gland, is put into a better Con­dition, with a good Garison, but they apprehend no Danger from the French; the Land about it produces good Corn, but not much: The People here are less Courteous than those that live in the great Trading-Towns, (tho' you are not to expect great Civility from the Dutch, who pretend not to much breed­ing,) [Page 8]some say, the grosness of the Air influences them in their Manners, and that the Moon, who governs them, ( Cancer be­ing their Ascendent) makes them Clownish; but of this there is no certainty; tho' the Sea-men of all Nations are ob­served to be as rough, surly, and ill-natur'd as the Element they live upon: And if the Water has Influence, why not the Air? Here is a pretty little Stadt-House, or Guild-Hall, as we call it in London, and a good Church founded Anno 1372, by the Countess Matilda for them, and another Church for the English, an Hospital for Orphans, a good Market-place, and an old and new Haven. Rotterdam has got a­way all the Trade from the Briel. About ten in the Forenoon we [Page 9]took Scout (which is a little Boat with a Sail, and goes every hour, the Bell ringing to give Notice to Passengers, as it does in other Places,) for Maezlandsluyce, a little Fisher-Town, a League from the Briel, half an Hours sail with the Wind, an hour and half against it; 'tis a pleasant Place; they have within these few Years built a very good Church there; before this Place lie a great many Busses, or Fish­ing-Vessels, which is their chief Trade, and by which they don't only live, but grow rich, as we in England might do, if we were not infatuated; most of their Busses were gone out to Sea, to catch Herrings on the English Coast, because the English are so lazy they won't catch 'em themselves. About half Seas [Page 10]over we were met by some Friends of ours, Dutch Mer­chants, who came from Amster­dam on purpose to receive us, which they did with all the de­monstrations of Love and Joy; we went a-shore together, and got to the best House, and fell abord the pickled Herring, which was extraordinary good; we made 'em swim in Rhenish Wine, of which we let down a good quantity. Here we hir'd a Waggon to carry us to Rot­terdam, which in our way we past through.

ƲLAERDINGEN, Ulaer­dingen. a League off, a small Village, a Fisher-Place, 'twas anciently a City, and well fortified, but ruin'd by ly­ing so near the River Maese, which broke in upon it. A League further lies Schedam, a [Page 11]small City, which has a Vote a­mongst the States, and is call'd the Oldest, Boldest, Wisest, and was the Richest in ancient Times, wonderfully Couragious were the Inhabitants against the Spa­niards; now famous for the Fishery, and making of Nets to catch Fish. Three or four En­glish Miles further along the same River lies Delphs-howen, a small Town, nothing but Fisher­men and Marriners live here: This Place, with small Charge, might be made impregnable, (as may many others in this Country) by reason of its situa­tion near so much Water.

Half a League from hence is Rotterdam, a great, strong, fine, Rotter­dam. and very rich City, one of the most celebrated Ports of Europe, the Second for Trade in this Pro­vince, [Page 12]lying very commodiously upon the River Maese, has great Commerce with England, Scot­land, France, (when in Peace) and Ireland, and is much con­cern'd in great and small Fishe­ry, a very flourishing Place: Here are divers Canals cut, which are so well contriv'd and kept, that the greatest Ships can enter, and there lie securely; and some Ships of two and three hundred Tuns are brought up into the middle of the Town, where the Goods are deliver'd at the Merchants Doors, which is a very great conveniency. Erasmus, the greatest Restorer of Learning, was born in this City Anno Dom. 1467, he died in Fri­burg in Alsatia: Remarkable was the Gratitude of this People, who to preserve his Name and [Page 13]Memory, have at their Charge set up his Effigies in Brass, well done, with a great Book in his Hand (the Leaves of which he turns over as oft as he hears the Clock strike, which forsooth is a Piece of Dutch Wit.) This Statue was erected, as they told us, in 1564, and roughly handled by the Spaniards in 1572. 'tis now rail'd in with Iron. This City is now wholly at the Devotion of the Prince of Orange, (now our King) the People being passio­nate and zealous Lovers of his Person and Interest, which they express to the highest upon all Occasions. Here they brew good Beer, which is sent to the Cities and Villages all round a­bout; they also serve the States Armies and Navies with it. Turf and Wood is their firing, the [Page 14]first is cheap, the second dear, and is burnt by the better sort only. As we came near any of their Towns we distinguish'd an odd smell, which comes from the Turf, and is unpleasant, and we believe unwholsom; 'tis stronger than that of New-Castle Coal in London. These People are ge­nerally more obliging to the English than in any other Place, which is to be wholly attributed to their frequent Conversation, and Dealing with them. Here they build very great Ships of War, of a hundred Guns, and downward. We went on bord some of the biggest, and view'd them well within, and without; they are not so cleaverly and neatly built as the English, nor so fit for Accomodation, but more clumsie, but then very [Page 15]strong, and sit for Service, plain Paint, and without any Guild­ing, and very little Carving, which is a superfluous and un­necessary Expence; and which the English and French were once very vain in, tho' 'tis now al­most worn out of Practice, espe­cially the Guilding, which may be proper for Yachts and Plea­sure-Boats, but not for Men of War. We saw their Stadt-House or Guild-Hall, which is a very good Building, and Saint Lawrence's Church, which is a great one, in it a very large old Organ, the Dutch Presbyterians being not so nice and squeemish as the English, who inveigh a­gainst the Use of that Musick in Churches: In this Church are the Monuments of several great Sea-Commanders. The English, [Page 16]Scotch, and French, have also each a Church here. Here is an open Place for the Merchants to meet in, which they call the Exchange, but no noble Piazza's to secure 'em from the Weather, as at London. We staid here se­veral Days, and sometimes din'd at the English, sometimes at the Dutch, and French Houses. The Ordinaries are the best and cheapest Places to eat at, for then you know your Expence, which otherwise is at the VVill and Pleasure of your Landlord, who Arbitrarily imposes upon you; and this without redress, for if you complain to the Ma­gistrate, he will give it against you, and you must pay it; they know you are led by Curiosity to pass through, to view their Country, not to live in it, and [Page 17]you must contribute to the Sup­port of it. The Dutch are ill Cooks, and verifie the Proverb, That God sends Meat, and the De­vil the Dresser. They have abun­dance of Soupes and Slops, very insipid, they roast and boil all to Rags, so that you don't know what sort of Flesh 'tis when it comes to the Table. The French err a little on that side, but then they make some amends with their Sawces, which are tooth­some, tho' hardly wholsome; that being the best Diet, which is the simplest and most agree­able to Nature; so that we all agreed in this, That the English way of Boiling, Roasting, and Broiling, with preserving the Gravy, (which is the best Sawce) is the best in the World.

To DELFT we went next, Delft. betwixt which Place and Rotter­dam is a great Magazine of Gun-Powder for the States Service, 'tis a well-built Brick House with a Draw-Bridge, and a Moat all round it, which is wisely con­triv'd, that if it should by any Accident (which sometimes hap­pens) blow up, it cannot do any other Damage; for 'tis dan­gerous to lodge great Maga­zines (as in the Tower of London) near great and populous Cities. This very City of Delft was grie­vously shatter'd by the blowing up of the great Magazine of Powder kept there Anno 1654, which occasion'd the building the aforesaid House.

Delft is a fair and populous City, very clean, well built, and very pleasant; well seated in a [Page 19]Plain of Meadows, which may be laid all round under Water, if they open their Sluces, when the Wind is East-North-East. At the Entrance of it stands a general Magazine of Warlike Stores (but no Powder) for the Publick Service. This City was burnt to Ashes Anno 1536, but soon re-built, and now in grea­ter Glory than ever. The East-India Company of this Place have here a very good House and large Ware-Houses; as also an eighth part of the Great or General Stock, this being the Third Town of Holland, having the Third Voice in the States, whither it sends Deputies, as also to all the other Colleges. Here are very fine Buildings, and a­mongst them the Town-House, with these two Verses on the Front.

Here is a spacious Market-Place between this House and the great Church, in which stands William the First Prince of Orange (Great Grand-Father to his Sacred Ma­jesty King William) at full length, in Armor, in Copper Effigie; at each corner of this Monument stands Justice, Prudence, Tempe­rance, and Valour, all in Copper, and very large; and besides this, the Prince lies at length in Mar­ble, with a Dog (having had his Life once sav'd by a Dog) at his Feet, all under Marble Py­ramids: 'Tis the most Magnifi­cent Tomb in all the Seventeen [Page 21]Provinces. Here that Prince kept his Court, and here was that brave Prince assassinated in the 51st Year of his Age, being shot by a Pistol with three Bullets, as he rose from the Table, by one Balthazar Gerrard, a Burgundian, so that he died without having time to say any more than, Lord have Mercy on my Soul and this poor People. The Murderer pre­tended to be a Protestant, and Son of one who had suffer'd for his Religion; by which he insinua­ted himself into the Prince's Fa­vour, who employ'd and in­trusted him in Business of Im­portance: The Villain never of­fer'd to get off, but was taken and pinch'd to death with hot Irons, his Flesh being first slash'd with a Knife, and so Piece by Piece torn off with hot Pincers; [Page 22]he died obstinate, and said, If it were to do again, he would do it.

In the t'other Church is a Monument of Admiral Trump's, inrich'd with Miniature, and a fine Inscription: 'Tis a stately one, with the Arms of his Fami­ly hanging in Frames over it: 'Twas erected at the States Charge, in acknowledgment, for the good Service he did his Country.

In the same Church is Myn Heer Pithin's Tomb, a very handsome one: He was a Dutch Admiral, and took the Plate-Fleet from the Spaniards. The Churches here, and in all the Seven Ʋnited-Provinces, are ge­nerally bigger than ours in En­gland, but fewer in Number.

Here is a large and neat Market, or Flesh-Hall (as they call it) for all sorts of Butchers Meat, which they have very good, and in great plenty, and not dear truly; which I the ra­ther mention, because they who have not travell'd, upbraid the Dutch with living upon Onions, Roots, Herb, Milk, and pickled Herrings, and say, they have no Flesh, and rarely eat any; 'tis true, they aae sparing, and I be­lieve 'tis the better for their Health; for the devouring a­bundance of Flesh must needs fill our Bodies with many hot and gross Humours, and con­sequently impair our Health. They have also a good Fish-Market here, and another of Fruits, Roots, and Herbs.

The People in this City are rich, trade much to Sea, and make much Porcelain, or fine Earthen Wares, to a great Per­fection, tho' far short of China, which they pretend to resemble, and brew good Beer here; but the Remark we made in general of their Beer (of which they have many sorts, as Rotterdam Beer, Dort, English Beer, white Beer, sweet Beer, Breda Beer, &c.) is, That tho' they have an Art of refining it, so that it looks (some of it) very clear, yet it tastes insipid, and indeed is but weak, compar'd to the English, having little or no relish of the Mault.

From hence we went to the Hague, which is three Miles, or an Hour farther, a Village, as 'tis generally call'd, but a very [Page 25]beautiful one, the finest in the World, agreed by all Travellers: The very Italians themselves confess it, who may justly boast of the best Buildings in the World, tho' there are some of that Nation that chuse to live here rather than at home, say­ing, this is the pleasantest Place in the World; tho' we must own we are not altogether of their Opinion. It is certainly the finest Village in Europe, and much exceeding many Cities in Bigness, and Beauty. In this Place it was that the States by their Edict Anno 1586, abroga­ted the Authority of Philip the Second King of Spain, and held a Conference upon the Five Ar­ticles of the Remonstrants, An. 1610, which brought about the calling of the Synod of Dort, [Page 26]so fam'd in Story. The Princes of Orange us'd to keep their Courts here, till the present Prince William ascended the English Throne. The Earls of Holland had their Residence here, and founded the Prince's House, which is a good old Brick-Build­ing, with a Court before it, for the Foot-Guards to draw up in, and lodge or ground their Arms in. Here the States General, the States Provincial, the Court of Holland, the High-Council Court of Brabrant, and the Council of State assemble; but that Cham­ber which deserves most Notice, and a particular Description, is where the States of Holland meet, which is indeed a very fine, spacious, lofty Room, with very fine Hangings round, which touch the very Cieling, [Page 27]with their Arms curiously wove in them, made on purpose for them; some People of most Na­tions are also wove in these Hangings, as if looking over Galleries; which, when the Room is a little darkned, which is done by the Servant that shows it, the better to represent it, appears as if they were all alive, nodding of their Heads and talking to one another. The Cieling it self is painted very finely, by an Italian Master; as also the Two Chimney-Pieces, in which are represented Peace and War, very curiously; the first is Ve­nus, a very beautiful Woman, with a pure white Dove on her Lap, with other Emblems of Peace about her; the second is Mars, or a Soldier compleatly armed, with a Plume of Fea­thers [Page 28]on his Head-piece, tram­pling on a great open Book, all bloody, on which is writ in large Letter, PRIVELEGIA. The Seats are all rail'd in; that of the Princes, is an Elbow-chair at the upper-end of the Table; about which (on Chairs with Backs) sits the Knighthood of Holland, who have but one Vote, which each City that sends De­puties has; and at the lower­end sits the Pensioner, who is Keeper of the Great Seal and Secretary, as they told us, before whom lies a small wooden Ham­mer, which when he knocks with, is that their Debates cease, and they be silent. The Seats of the Deputies of the several Cities are on Benches, or Forms; every Seat has a Cushion of green Cloth, (with which the Seats [Page 29]and Table is cover'd) with the Arms of that City or Town on it, for which they serve, or which they represent: At the upper-end of this noble Room, on each side of that Chimney, is a distinct Place for the two Se­cretaries, on which lie great Books, to take the Minutes.

The Ʋnited-Provinces are so call'd, from their Union at Ʋ ­trecht, Anno 1579. They are commonly (but confusedly and improperly) all call'd Holland, that being the richest and most populous Province of them all, and indeed worth them all, and therefore for its Excellency it swallows up in its Name the t'other six; and, indeed, it con­tributes to the charge of the War, and the support of the State, and the preservation of [Page 30]their Lands from the Sea, by vast and expensive Dykes, or Banks, far beyond what all the other do, put together; of a Hundred Livers, it pays Fifty nine and a half, which is very considerable; but then it is the great Trading Province. These Provinces, which before own'd Subjection to the King of Spain, and were wonderfully Loyal to their Prince, Lovers of his Person, and Zealous for his Interest, till he fell in upon their Establish­ments, their Religious and Civil Rights, have since been Indepen­dent of one another, or to speak strictly and more properly, are Seven Commonwealths, which altogether now make but one, under the Name of, The States General of the United-Provinces of the Low-Countries: The Dig­nity [Page 31]of this Republick residing in the States General, but the ab­solute Authority in and over all Things reserv'd, by reason of the Alliance, has remained in the States of each Province; and this is that which they call the Sovereignty. The Seal of this formidable Commonwealth is a Lion, holding a bundle of seven bound Arrows, alluding to as many confederated Provinces. There is no State in being, of so small an extent, which has so great a Number of Fortresses, and which seems better defended by the Nature of the Places than this. It has the Sea, and several Rivers to secure it: The Rhine, the Maese, the Waal, and the Is­sell. Of these seven Ʋnited-Pro­vinces there are four towards the West, Holland, Zealand, Ʋ ­trecht, [Page 32]and Guelderland; three towards the East, Over-Yssel, Friesland, and Groninghen. In their Assemblies, the Provinces thus give their Votes, Guelder­land first of all, then Holland, Zealand, Ʋtrecht, Friesland, Over-Yssel, last Groninghen. Each of 'em sends its Deputies to this Place, ( viz. the Hague) where are form'd three Colleges, or Assemblies of them; the States General, the Council of State, and the Chamber of Accompts. In the Assemblies of the States General, all the Provinces above­mention'd must consent, in ge­neral, and in particular, to the Resolutions that are taken there­in, and do not follow the Plu­rality of Voices. Each Pro­vince may send thither one, two, three, four, or five Deputies, [Page 33]but all these Deputies have to­gether but one Voice, and have right to preside therein but one Week: That of Guelderland be­gins, because it is the most an­cient, and its Plenipotentiaries were the first who propos'd the Union. This Province, Anno 1674, offer'd the Sovereignty to the Prince of Orange (now King of England,) it being the time the French King invaded them with mighty Armies, which like a Torrent over-run all, and made such surprising Conquests, that in a very short time they reduced three Provinces, and between fifty and sixty consi­derable Towns; but their Pro­gress was stopt, and they repell'd by the Bravery and Conduct of the Prince of Orange, who new modell'd the States Armies, and [Page 34]from raw, inexpert, and undi­sciplin'd Soldiers, and bad Offi­cers, (rais'd by the Favour and Interest of the Burgo-Masters and Principal Magistrates) made them very formidable to their Enemies, and snatch'd the Law­rels from the greatest Generals of the Age, at the Head of the best Troops, and recover'd part of their Losses, and had the rest resign'd by the Peace Anno 1678.

The Admiralty has five Sessi­ons, (and as many Magazines,) which are those of Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Enkuysen, Midleburg, and Harlingen: The three first in Holland, the fourth in Zea­land, and the fifth in Friesland. The whole Care and Manage­ment of these several Admiral­ties is committed to Men of [Page 35]great Ability and Integrity, con­versant in Maritime Affairs, and of great Experience in Matters relating to their Office, viz. building of Ships, buying of Stores and Naval Provisions, equipping single Ships, Squa­drons, or Fleets appointing Con­voys, &c. These Officers, as indeed all others, throughout their whole Government, have but small Pensions or Salaries, the States being very sparing of the Publick Monies; but how­ever, the Servants and Ministers of this Commonwealth live ac­cordingly, that is, are prudent and thrifty in the Management of their private Fortune, modest and plain in their Habit, with­out the Pomp of Coaches, or great Trains, or large Houses, or costly feeding, or high drink­ing, [Page 36]complying with the custom of their Country, and content­ing themselves with simple Diet; no Fricassee's, Ragou's, or Gril­liades, but a good Dish of Cabil­liau, Cod-Fish, of which the Dutch in general are great Ad­mirers. There seems to be a natural and habitual Probity amongst the Officers of this State.

Here are some Remains of their ancient Nobility, some Branches of the Bredreodes, the Wassenaers, and the Egmonts; this Nobility has ever voted there the first, tho' (as I said before) it has but one Voice to­gether, whereas the Eighteen Cities of the same Provinces, have there each one, with the Sovereignty bound by Alli­ance.

Most of the Towns in this Province are beautiful and plea­sant, having been built in the last Age.

Fronting the Prince's House stands a great Hall, resembling (tho' not so big as) Westminster-Hall, full (like that) of Book­sellers, and Toy-Shops. Here is kept (in a Chamber at the fur­ther end) the High Court of Justice, from which no Appeals are granted, and to which all are made. The Civil or Roman Law is in practise all over these Countries. This Village has no Vote among the States, not be­cause 'tis a Village, for there are several Cities have no Votes, but because they did not send De­puties to Ʋtrecht, when the Uni­on was upon the Anvil.

The Hague paies more Excise for Wine and other Liquors, than Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Dort, three great Cities, put to­gether, as they told us; and it has the face of Truth, for here is the great concourse of Tra­vellers, Nobility, Gentry, Fo­reign Embassadors, Envoys, Re­sidents, &c. And now, (and for some Years past) of the Congress, these are the Wine-Bibbers, for the common Dutch are satisfied with a sopie of Brandy-Wine, a Dram of that Liquor does their Business better, it keeps out the Cold and the Fogs, quick­ens them, and makes them fitter for Action; and, indeed, they seem to have some occasion for it, for they are naturally slow and heavy, but then very dili­gent and constant, else 'twould [Page 39]have been impossible to have fi­nish'd such great Works as they to their Honour, and the Safety of their Country have happily atchiev'd. And indeed strong and spirituous Liquors seem to me to be more necessary for, as well as natural to this Nation, conducing mightily to the con­servation of their Health, which must needs be fluctuating, where the Air is so foul: Their Coun­try is a Bog, a Marsh, full of Va­pours and Fogs, which are Ear­thy, and Sulphureous, and send forth unpleasant and unwhol­som Scents; and therefore their frequent Tippling ought not to be charg'd on them as a Crime, especially by a Neighbour-Na­tion (the English) who have a better Country, and a better Air, and are in their own Na­tures [Page 40]more lively, brisk, and pert, having more Heat, more Fire within, are as Cholerick as the t'other Flegmatick, drudge not like them, therefore want not the like Supports, being lazy and idle People, chusing rather (some of 'em) to starve than work. Besides, they Bumper it but seldom, and at set, and up­on solemn Occasions, and then forbear a good while, or at least some time, but my Country-men, to their shame, are always Sot­ting and Drunkening, toiling at it, and valuing themselves up­on making one another Drunk; indeed, 'tis a noble Atchievement to Fuddle the whole Company: 'Tis a glorious Conquest to leave 'em all slain upon the Floor, (as they call it.) Now the bearing of much strong Liquor is an [Page 41]argument of a thick Skull ra­ther than otherwise, which I find few very fond of, at least none would have it if they could help it.

In the Afternoon we hired a Coach, a very genteel one, and the Coach-Man in a good Habit, of grey, resembling a Livery, with a pair of handsom, fat, well-kept Horses; we agreed with him to wait upon us the whole Afternoon, which he did, for about Eight Shillings Ster­ling; and first carried us to the Prince's House in the Bosch or Wood, about two Miles from the Hague; 'tis a very pretty well-built (tho' old) Box, (as we call small Seats in England) with good Gardens, tho' not now very well kept; at the En­trance of this House stand Four [Page 42]whole Marble Effigies of William the First, Maurice his Brother, Henry, and William the Second, (the present King of Great Bri­tain's Father,) all Princes of Orange, very curiously done. Directly forwards is a lofty, well-painted, well-guilt, well-floor'd small Hall, with a Gal­lery for Musick all round the top of it, and three or four small lodging Rooms below, and several very good ones a­bove, one Closet of all true In­dian Japan, made of Cabinets or Chests taken in pieces; 'tis three Yards long, and one and a half broad. The Wall and Cielings all round beautified with curi­ous Paintings, representing the Actions of Frederick Henry, Prince of Orange. The Wood in which this little House [Page 43](fit only for Banqueting, or a Supper in the cool of a Sum­mer's Evening, or, indeed, a re­treat with a Mistress) stands is very pleasant, and with cost might be made much more de­lightful. There is a pretty deal of Ground about it, and well wooded, but has no Deer, or any other Game.

As we came back we rid by the Mall or Mell, much like that in St. James's Park, but not so neat, or well kept, being not so much frequented. Then we were drove back through part of the Hague to Schevelin, (up­on a fine smooth way, pav'd all with Bricks, and planted on each side with Trees, to make it plea­sant, which was done at vast Ex­pence, being before all sandy Hills,) a little Village about two [Page 44]Miles from thence, fam'd in Sto­ry for the Embarkation of Charles the Second King of En­gland, when he went to take Pos­session of his Three Crowns, from which he had been long kept by the Usurper Oliver Crom­well. 'Tis a little Fisher-Place; we rid along the shoar two or three Hours, in view of the Oce­an or Main-Sea, where we ob­serv'd some Wrecks on that Coast.

Between Schevelin and the Hague is a House of Myn Heer Bentink's, (now Earl of Portland) it is but an ordinary old Piece of Building, tho' his Lordship has lately added some new Lodg­ings to it, but the Gardens are new and very extraordinary; there is a very fine Orangerie, and a new well-built Room or [Page 45]Green-house to preserve them in Winter, and in the middle and at each end a great Stove, in which great Fires are kept du­ring the extreme cold Weather. In the middle of the new Gar­den is a fine Oval Fountain. The Garden is made up like a Half-Moon, full of fine Flower-Pots: In the old Garden is a neat Aviary, and a small Moat with Fowl in it, fine Walks and Figures, and a Summer-House built upon an Artificial Rock.

Amongst the Principal Build­ings in the Hague, the House built by Prince Maurice claims the first Rank, for 'tis a stately One, of Modern Structure. Here Charles the Second, King of Great Britain, was lodged and treated by the States when his [Page 46]Majesty came from Breda to em­bark for England, Anno 1660. The Dukes of Brandenburg, Saxo­ny, and others of the Illustrious German Princes, when they come to the Hague on Visit, or Busi­ness, are conducted hither, and remain here during their stay. In this House are the Pictures of most of the European Kings, and a great many American Ra­rities. In the Years 1672 and 1673, the Inhabitants were in great Pain lest the French, who were then very near them, shou'd have made 'em a Visit, because there's no Fortifications, only a Ditch of Water: The Trees round about it were order'd to be cut down, to impede the French in their march, who, like very civil Gentlemen, came not to give them the least Distur­bance; [Page 47]young Trees are since planted in the room of the old. The Confusion then was such, that they sent several Waggons laden with Money, and the Pub­lick Accompts, to be secur'd in the Stadt-House of Amsterdam.

And much about this time was the fatal and sudden Trage­dy acted on the two unhappy Brothers, John and Cornelis de Wit; the one said to be the grea­test States-man in the World; the other an Admiral, who had also serv'd in an eminent Post in the Civil Government. The Populace rose and cut them both in Pieces, without suffering them to speak one Word for themselves; they always oppos'd the Interest of the House of O­range, which was the true In­terest of their State, to which [Page 48]they were believ'd to be Ene­mies: And thus fell John de Wit, who was allow'd by all to have been a very extraordinary Man, after a long Administration of the great and principal Affairs of this Republick.

Here are a great many En­glish, French, Scots, Germans, and some of most Nations in Europe, but more Germans and French than any.

Near the Town stands an Iron Cage (seldom us'd) in which are put notorious Criminals, to be expos'd to the Scorn and Contempt of the Rabble.

We went to the new Church, built not many Years since up­on the very Spot where the common Bawdy-Houses stood, which were pull'd down to make way for this noble Stru­cture: [Page 49]A happy Conversion! Houses of Filth and Unclean­ness turn'd into a House of Prayer! 'Tis adorn'd with Of­ficers Arms, and Escutcheons of the Nobility and Gentry. They call it an Oval Building, but I think it almost round; it has no Pillars within, so that all the People may see as well as hear the Minister: 'Tis a large Church, and as they told us, there is not so fine a one in all the Seventeen Pronvinces; be­hind it is the Rag-street, where there is kept a great Rag-Mar­ket; abundance of Money is got by buying and selling that sort of mean Merchandize.

We went hence to view the great Church, which is a good old Piece of Building, with a very high square Brick Steeple, [Page 50]seen afar off; here is Admiral Opdam's Monument, 'tis very Magnificent; he commanded the Dutch Fleet in an Engage­ment with the English, he was blown up, Ship and all; he had the Folly and Vanity to carry a Broom in his Main-top; as much as to say, he would sweep the Sea of the English, but they made a shift to send him and his Broom to take the Air; he was a bold fighting Fellow, but a Man of no great Conduct.

Then we were shew'd the Cloister-Church, which is a large Pile, built Anno 1399. And so to the French Church, which was formerly the Chappel of the Earls of Holland; they say, 'tis bigger than the French Church in Lon­don, but we thought not so.

Here is an English Church, or Chappel rather, for 'tis a small one, very plain and ordinary. The Germans preach there early in the Morning, then the En­glish, who have the English Li­turgy read to 'em; the Auditors are but few, we counted about Seventy. Here are a great ma­ny fine Buildings, fit for Petty Princes, they are fill'd with Embassadors, Envoys, Resi­dents, &c.

We hir'd a Coach to carry us to Honslayerdyke, one of King William's Houses; in our way thither we past through Ryswick, a little Village, with a good Church, a Mile from the Hague; and a little farther another Vil­lage, call'd Watringe; as also the Seats of many Country Gen­tlemen, pleasantly situated, with [Page 52]long Rows of Trees on each side the Walk which leads to the House.

Honslaerdyke is about eight or nine Miles from the Hague, almost the same Distance as Hampton-Court from London; it is a very neat Piece of Building, Founded by Henry Prince of O­range, the King's Grand-Father, about sixty or seventy Years ago; 'tis a pretty Square, with a Bass-Court, and very hand­som Moat all round it: King William has lately added some new Lodgings to it. Here was always a Guard of Horse and Foot Soldiers without, and Swit­zers within Doors, who are lusty swinging Fellows, with black frizzing Hair and great Whiskers, they wear flat Caps and Cloaks, and look big and [Page 53]handsomly for a Guard, when the King was here.

The Gardens that belong to this House are not extraordina­ry, they are well made up and neatly kept; in the middle stands a Fountain, eight Leaden gilt Statues, and three or four Stone Images about it. Here are ma­ny and long Walks, adorn'd with Trees, which front the House, and make it very plea­sant: Two small Parks with low Pails, and shallow Ditches about them; a few Deer; we ob­serv'd no difference between them and the English; here are above ten or twelve Couple of Hounds, and a very large Avi­ary with great variety of Birds.

It was our fortune to con­verse but seldom with the Dutch, tho' many of themspeak prompt [Page 54] French, however we engag'd in Discourse with three or four Gentlemen, led by Curiosity to see this House, who amongst other things, told us, as their Observation, That we had in England (where they said they had been) three sorts of Ver­min; (we were glad to hear we had no more,) but demand­ing what they were, they an­swer'd, Parsons, Physicians, and Lawyers, who devour all the good Things of this World; they told us, they kept their Ministers in due Bounds, and upon the Le­vel, there were none rich, but none poor, they had no Arch­bishopricks, Bishopricks, Deana­ries, Prebendaries, and fat Li­vings; the States paid their Parsons their Stipend, usually about One hundred and fifty, [Page 55]or two hundred Pounds Sterling per Annum; they kept to their Texts, and never meddled with their Affairs of State, or any Se­cular Matters, but contented themselves with Admonishing the People from their Pulpits to lead good Lives, which they themselves were good Examples of; no sawcy Priests there, to thrust their Noses into, and in­termeddle with other Mens Bu­siness; if any of their Preach­ers happen'd at any time to make any Sallies of Zeal, and touch the States never so ten­derly, they had a Staff and a clean pair of Shooes sent, and were told they must troop off.

These Gentlemen also gave us their Sentiments of the En­glish and Scotch Soldiers, they [Page 56]own'd they were both Brave; that the Scots wou'd, and the English wou'd not work; that the first cou'd fare hard, but not the t'other; the English Man must be well fed, good pow­der'd Beef and Pudding, and good Ale was his fare, and if he had that nothing cou'd wrong him.

We went to the Place where they cast Cannon and Mor­tars; 'tis a handsome well-built House; there were several Pieces in the Mold, and a great many newly cast; as also Mortars, all fit for the Field: thence to the Magazine, where they lay up their Cannon, Mortars, &c. with the Harness and other Tac­kle belonging to Carriages and Waggons.

The Streets of the Hague are very broad and clean, Houses large, and spruce without, and very neat within, even to a nice­ty, which is often troublesome; which chiefly arises from the Pride of being thought to be, and admir'd for a good House­wife: This Place is populous, abounding with Gentry and rich Citizens, many of which keep Coaches; in a word, the Hague is really a very pleasant and de­lightful Place.

Here are a great many Mar­kets, some of all sorts of fine Flowers, Fruits, Herbs, and Roots, in great Quantity; all which are generally larger than ours, except Colliflowers, and Artichokes, in which we really excel them; and tho' our com­mon Cherries, red and white [Page 58]Curran's are not so large and beautiful as theirs, yet they are much pleasanter in their taste, sweeter, to be eat without Su­gar, and theirs not; they have abundance of black Curran's (which we have not, here and there only in a noble Man's Garden that is curious) they have an unpleasant, Physical taste, and therefore they put them into Brandy, as we do black Cherries, and, they say, 'tis a great Cordial.

Their Fish-Markets is well pro­vided, and abounds with live and dead, but most of the first, for even the common People will hardly purchase the last; here is great store of Salmon, which they slice alive, for then it shrivels up, which they e­steem the best; tho' we did not [Page 59]agree with them, for we chose a great intire Piece, and had it boil'd, and with English Sawce brought up to the Table: Perch, Soals, and Flounders in great a­bundance, which they fell by the Pound, four Pence, five Pence, six Pence, seven Pence, and eight Pence, which is a high Price, and rarely happens, but after very hard and long Win­ters, and a succeeding cold Spring, and wet Summer, which destroys the Spawn, and hinders the growth and increase of Fish in general. Here are also Mar­kets of Cheese, Butter, Baskets, Stockings, Silk, Thred, Lace, and a great many Baubles.

Nor is the Flesh-Market here to be past by, for there is choice of all sorts of Butchers Meat, and very good in the Kinds; [Page 60]their Veal is altogether as white, and rathe larger than ours; the Mutton short and tender, (seeding much upon Turneps) is sweet, but not so much in esteem (nor indeed so good) as our Bansted and Tunbridge Mutton; their Beef good, but small and thin, brought from Denmark, and not very fat, not stalled as ours; in that they fall short of us; for 'tis agreed by all Tra­vellers, that the English is the best Beef in the World, far ex­ceeding all, even the Irish, who have good Land, and breed good Cattel; but the difference appears in the salting more than the sight, for no Beef endures that like ours, and that for the longest Voiages; however, to this Market at the Hague is the best in all these Provinces [Page 61]brought, because 'twill yield the best Price here. These People are very neat and cleanly about their Flesh, Butter, Cheese, and other Things; nay, the meanest among 'em have not only good but clean Linnen. Here are two Butter-Markets, one Wholesale, t'other Retail, a great deal in each; the Dutch are not call'd Butter-Boxes in jest, for they eat abundance, and carry it in Pew­ter-Boxes, and keep it in such on board their Ships, which might give occasion to the En­glish to call them so; in return of which, they nick-name the English Starts; that is, Tails; tho', as we told them, they had little reason, for we us'd to see theirs oftner than they ours, ha­ving oftner beat them in Sea-Engagements than they us.

To divert our selves we went to see their Spin-Houses, or Bridewell, where old Women are confin'd for Drunkenness, and young ones for Whoredom; here's not an idle Body in this Place, some Spinning, others ma­king Lace, others Plain-work; they come to the Barrs and hold out a Plate to beg our Charity, and there entertain us with some Liquorish Discourse. They are kept here for Weeks, Months, and Years; all according to the greatness, or smalness of their Crimes. 'Tis also a Prison for Debtors, which are not expos'd to view. Here we were told a pleasant Story, the Fact thus; A young Gentleman of Amster­dam, coming by Water hither in one of their common Pas­sage-Boats, drawn by Horses, [Page 63]was extremely Amorous upon a young Lady that was among the Company, and was so Im­portunate in his Addresses, that he was very troublesome, which oblig'd that Lady to give him some hopes of obtaining his de­sire when they came ashoar, which made him quiet and ea­sie; as soon as ever they landed, he attack'd her afresh by him­self; she told him, that she had business to do for her Mother, which would employ two or three Hours of her time, but that she would meet him exact­ly at Four at such a House, tel­ling him the Master's Name, (which he took care not to for­get) so they parted, he about his, she about her Affairs; she goes directly to this Place, and tells the Master that her Brother [Page 64]would be there by and by and ask for her, that he was a very Debauchee, and so very lew'd, and extravagant, that her Father could not tell what to do with him, but sent her to desire him to receive him into his Care, and give him the Discipline of the House, (this was a private Bride­well, or House of Correction,) which he thought might reduce him. The amorous Youth ar­riv'd at the limited Minute, and asking for such a Lady, he was admitted, but presently confin'd to a Chamber, and (according to the laudable Custom) disci­plin'd, and told that was all the Sport he must expect here; they kept him a Fortnight or three Weeks, and cool'd him, and so let him out.

In the Hague is a very good Alms-House, given by a private Gentleman; 'tis a handsom well­built Square, pretty Appart­ments, and Gardens to each, with all manner of Conveniencies; here are Threescore Women, half Protestants, half Papists: The reason of this mixture is, The Founder, who was of the Reform'd Religion, died before they were finish'd, and left the Perfecting of the Work, and Management of the Revenues, to a Roman Catholick, who put in half of his own Religion.

The old Buildings here are all of Brick; of which they have three sorts, whitish, palish red, and deep red, better workt up and burnt than ours. Their new Buildings are of Stone, and Stone and Brick; magnificent, [Page 66]noble, and great, lofty Cielings, large Windows, very good French Glass, but they have not Sashes yet, being not so great Apes of Imitation as their Neigh­bours the French and English. One would think Marble grew here; that is, that there were great and vast Quarries of it in this Country, for rich and poor, old and new Houses, have all their first Floors pav'd with black and white Marble; not course and ordinary, but very good of the Kind, with great Variety in the manner of laying it: Nay, tho' Italy, whence it comes, be nearer France, yet the present French King bought most of his Marble, for the fam'd Building at Versailles, at Amster­dam. Much Guilding, and Car­ving; the first, upon Leather, [Page 67]with which they hang many of their Rooms, both above and below Stairs, and cover Chairs; and also guild their Window-Shutters: Their Carving is in Stone at the Front of their Houses. And so much for the Hague, where we staid a great while, and where we could hard­ly ever be tyr'd or cloy'd with abiding.

I have been the more Parti­cular in giving an Account of this Place, and of every Thing that is remarkable in it, because 'tis so very much talked of by all Travellers in general. I had like to have omitted a House (belonging to the Illustrious House of Nassaw, built by Prince Frederick, Henry, King William's Grand-Father,) call'd Ryswick, not far from the Hague, which [Page 68]we were so curious to take a view of; 'tis a very good Piece of Building, all Front, with a spatious Court before it, the Cie­ling richly Guilt, and the Chim­ney-Pieces, except two or three, which are Marble, with Pillars of the same; Floors of black and white Marble; good Gar­dens, but neglected.

And now having resolv'd to take our leave of the Hague, we went on board the Trecht Schuyt, or Passage-Boat, which is very large, and will con­tain between thirty and forty People, cover'd with a Tarpau­lin, (a Piece of Canvas dipt in Tar, or Oil,) which in wet Wea­ther keeps out the Rain, and in hot the Sun; which is to be thrown up, to let in the Air when they please; a single Horse [Page 69]draws this Vessel, rid by a Boy, who has a long slender Rope fasten'd to his Geers, and runs, or rather trots along upon the Dykes or Banks, three Miles, or a League an Hour constantly, stays for no Body, but puts off every Hour, just as the Clock has done striking; the Fare is very reasonable; this way of Travelling from Town to Town is very convenient, and tends mightily to the advancement of Commerce, and dispatch of Bu­siness, or Visits. When you are upon these Canals on which these Boats float, you cast your Eyes from the Water as from a Precipiece down to the Land, for so much higher is the Wa­ter in these Countries than the Land, which chiefly consists of Marshes, full of Mills, of seve­ral [Page 70]sorts, the most that we ever saw flying in our lives; the Pro­spect is pleasant: The Dutch are great Improvers of Land, and Planters of Trees, of Ornament as well as Profit.

In our Way to Leyden we past Voorbroock, and Woorsconack, two small Villages; and several Country-Houses, belonging to Gentlemen, or rich Citizens, made pleasant with Rows of Trees, and fine Walks before them.

About seven in the Afternoon we came to LEYDEN, Leyden. about nine Miles from the Hague, 'tis a very fair, large and rich City, in the Province of Holland; it stands on the River Rhine, (which divides it into thirty one Islands, join'd by one hundred and forty five Bridges, whereof one hun­dred [Page 71]and four are of Stone,) and loses it self in the Sand, where endeavours have been, to no purpose, us'd to make a Sea-Port; 'tis but seven Miles from Rotterdam, and twenty one from Amsterdam; Leyden is said, by some, to be the Eye, by others, the Garden of Holland, by rea­son of the cleanness of its Streets, and the beauty of its Buildings; 'tis celebrated for its Antiquity, for its fine Impressions, and fam'd University, which was founded Anno 1575, adorn'd with a very good Library, a Physick-Gar­den, abounding with great va­riety of choice and excellent Simples, brought with great care, and much trouble, from Foreign Parts, very remore: Here is also an Anatomical Gal­lery, which contains a great ma­ny [Page 72]Rarities, the Gifts of several Princes, and eminent Men; the Particulars of which are as fol­low, viz.

• The Head of an Elephant; the Gift of Dr. Sopii.
• The Head of an Elk; the Gift of Dr. Job Paludarii.
• The Skin and Horn of the Head of a Rhinoceros.
• The Skin and Horns of a White-Heart.
• A Crocodile, the four Feet of an Elephant; the Gift of Justus Heurnius.
• Some Indian Darts.
• A Trumpet made of the Rinds of Trees in Moscovy.
• A Muscovian Bow.
• The Skin of an Animal inhabi­ting Brazil, call'd Tamandua Popo; the Gift of Prince Mau­rice.
• [Page 73]The Snout of an unknown Fish from Brazil; the Gift of Dr. George Pison.
• A Pair of Polonian Boots.
• A Leopard's Skin.
• A Pair of Laplander's Breeches.
• The bristly Skin of a Brazilian Beast; the Gift of Prince Mau­rice.
• The Skin of a Piger; a very slow Animal, mention'd by Pliny.
• The Horn of an Ondland Ox.
• A Muscovian Monk's Hood.
• A Cithern, which the Cossack's, lightly arm'd, make use of.
• A Pair of Moscovian Breeches, and a Coat.
• A Pair of Stilts or Skates, with which the Norwegians, Lap­landers, and Frieslanders run down high snowy Mountains, with almost an incredible switness; the Gift of Arnold Williams.
• [Page 74]The Head of an Elephant; the Gift of Adrian Pauwe.
• The Sceleton of a Dog.
• An Heron, a Bird whose Dung burns what it touches.
• A Leathern Boot, brought from the Streights, of St. David's.
• The Sceleton of a Bird, call'd a Shoveler.
• The Bone of the hinder part of a large old Whale; the Gift of Adrian Pauwe.
• The Bone of a Whale's Snout.
• The Sceleton of a young Whale, taken out of the old One's belly.
• The Hide of a Sea-Horse.
• The Skin of an Alce, a wild Beast like a Deer.
• The Teeth of a Whale.
• The Snout of a Fish, having Teeth in the form of a Saw, and is therefore call'd a Saw-Fish.
• [Page 75]The Sceleton of a Bear.
• The Sceleton of a Cow.
• The Sceleton of a Wolf.
• The Sceleton of a Baboon.
• The Sceleton of an Ass; upon which sits a Woman that kill'd her Daughter.
• The Sceleton of an Ape.
• The Sceleton of a Cat.
• The Sceleton of a Buck Goat.
• The Sceleton of a Woman of seventeen Years of Age, who murder'd her Son.
• The Sceleton of a large Bear.
• The Sceleton of a Hog; the Gift of Dr. Bills.
• The Sceleton of a Hart.
• The Sceleton of a Horse.
• The Sceleton of a large Piger; the Gift of Piso.
• The Lepor Marinus, a Fish inha­biting the muddiest part of the Sea, and casteth Snot out of his Mouth.
• [Page 76]The Sceleton of a Sheep-stealer of Haerlem, hang'd.
• The Sceleton of a Pirat.
• The Sceleton of a Ferret.
• The Sceleton of a Sheep; the Gift of Dr. Bills.
• The Sceleton of a gelded Buck Goat.
• The Sceleton of a Woman, call'd Catherine of Hamburg, stran­gled for Theft.
• The Sceleton of an Ape.
• The Sceleton of a Man (sitting upon an Ox) executed for stealing of Cattle; the Gift of Dr. Bills.
• The Sceleton of a Greyhound.
• The Sceleton of a Dog.
• The Sceleton of a Man that hang'd himself.
• The Sceleton of an Otter, and of a large Greyhound.
• The Covering of a great Mumie, [Page 77]upon which is engraven the Effigies of Ceres.
• A young Elephant's Head.
• A Ferret; an unknown Sea-Fish.
• A Sea Hedge-Hog.
• The Head of a Wild Boar.
• The Sceleton of a Lapwing.
• A Beast call'd Tatou; the Gift of Prince Maurice.
• The Sceleton of a Squirrel.
• The Head of a Sea-Calf.
• The Snout of a large Saw-Fish.
• A Whale's Yard.
• The Skin of a Man tann'd.
• The Entrails of a Man.
• An East-Indian Tyger; the Gift of Prince Carpenter, Governor in the East-Indies, a Surgeon.
• The Effigies of a Prussian Pea­sant, who swallow'd a Knife of ten Inches in length, which was cut out of his Stomach, and he liv'd eight Years af­terwards; [Page 78]the Gift of Dan. Becker.
• A Piger; the Gift of Prince Mau­rice.
• Two Bones grown to the Back­bone.
• A Norway House, built of Balcks, or Beams, without Mortar, Brick, or Stone.
• The Sceleton of an Eagle.
• The Beard of a young Whale.
• A Panther.
• The Snout of a Fish call'd Piscis Serratus.
• A Chair of a Root of a Tree na­turally grown so, from Am­boyna; the Gift of Peter de Car­pentier.
• The Skin of a Ray, or Skate, from Angola, a Kingdom of Ethio­pia.
• The Sceleton of a Badger.
• The Bladder of a Man contain­ing [Page 79]four stoop, (which is something above two English Gallons) of Water.
• A Formica Vorans, or Pismire Eater; the Gift of Pr. Maurice.
• A Crocodile; the Gift of Prince Maurice.
• The Entrails of a Man, of which is made a shirt; the Gift of Mr. John Leeuven.
• A Sea Dog.
• Some Tyger's Skins; the Gift of Prince Maurice.
• The Skin of a Man dress'd as Parchment.
• A Surgeon's Instrument, call'd Glosso Comion; that is, an In­strument in which broken Pieces are set, and bound up.
• A large Indian Crab. A Sea Calf.
• A Civet Cat; the Gift of Dr. Theod. Gool.
• The Skin of an East-Indian Dog.
• [Page 80]A Sea Starling.
• The skin of a large Serpent.
• The skin of a Woman.
• The Intestines and stomach of a Man.
• A Tyger from the East-Indies.
• A Beast call'd Tatou.
• A huge Serpent, upon which hang a Man's and a Hog's stomach; the Gift of Prince Maurice.
• Warlike Arms us'd in China.
• A Whale's Operator.
• A great Faulchion, or hooked Sword of the Chineses.
• Certain human Bones grown to­gether.
• The Head of a Sword-Fish, a known Enemy to the Whale; the Gift of Dr. Sam. Bloemaert.
• The Sceleton of a Coney.
• A Sea Hedge-Hog.
• A Fish, call'd Orbis Piscis, which is Libra Can. with a great [Page 81]Belly of a Chesnut-colour, and is unsavoury Meat.
• The Sceleton of a large Coney.
• The Head of a wild Boar.
• The Sceleton of a Swan.
• The Sceleton of a Cock.
• The Sceleton of a Pigeon.
• A Shield made of a large Sea Tortoise-shell; the Gift of John ab Ilpendam.
• A kind of Baboon, call'd by the Dutch a Bosh Manneken.
• Four or five Chinese Songs; the Gift of P. de Carpentier.
• Two Horses Hides of the same Nation.
• The Bone of a Whale's Tail.
• A strange Sea-Fish.
• The Skin of a Child, when first born.
• A Bear; the Gift of Daniel Beck­her.
• [Page 82] Galcus Levis, a hurtful sort of Fish, we call it a Hound-Fish.
• The Skin of a huge Serpent.
• The Intestines and Stomach of a large Man.
• A City of China, printed by the same Nation; the Gift of Pe­ter de Carpentier.
• The Sceleton of a Man on Horse-back; the Gift of Dr. de Bills.
• The Head of a Sea-Horse.
• A French Noble-Man, who ra­vish'd his Sister, and also mur­der'd her, was beheaded at Paris, and bestow'd on the Anatomy by Dr. Bills.
• The Bill of a strange Bird.
• The Mummy of an Egyptian Prince, above eighteen hun­dred Years old; the Gift of David de Willem.
• The Beak of the Bird Rhinoceros, [Page 83]or Topau; the Gift of Adrian de Paevis.
• An Indian Sable.
• Unbleach'd Egyptian Linnen.
• The Head of a Rhinoceros.
• A Roll of white China Paper; the Gift of Dr. Mic. Pauwe.
• A Stone of a considerable big­ness, taken out of a Maids Kidney; the Gift of Don. Otto. Heurnius.
• A Coral-Tree, taken out of the East-Indian Sea; the Gift of Dr. John de Laet.
• Six Stones taken out of the Blad­der of an old Professor, John Heurnius.
• A Pot in which is China Beer.
• Two Vertebrae out of the Neck of a Rhinoceros.
• A great Jasper-Stone, or Blood-Stone from Arabia.
• [Page 84]A Roman Lamp which burns al­ways under ground.
• Some Roman Arms a thousand Years old; the Gift of Dan. Gisius.
• The Wings of a flying Fish.
• An Indian Crab-fish; the gift of Dr. Jo. Dam. Bossu.
• An Hand of a Mermaid; the Gift of Prince Maurice.
• A Toad-stool, above a hundred and ten Years old, which grew in the Haerlem Meer; the gift of Pet. Scriverius,
• A Foot of a Sea-Monster; the Gift of Prince Maurice.
• A Lizard's Skin from Brazil; the gift of Prince Maurice.
• A Gold-Ring from China; the gift of Dr. John Hoogkamer.
• The Skin of an Indian Squerril.
• The Sceleton of a Mole.
• The Claw of an East-Indian Crab-Fish.
• [Page 85]A Glass containg the Substance with which they are wont to preserve Mummies.
• All the Arteries of the Liver.
• A Tyger's Head; the Gift of Prince Maurice.
• The Head of a Beast from the East-Indies, call'd Barbirousa, is half Hart, half Hog, and is bred in the Island Celebes.
• A Petrefied Toad-stool.
• The Head of a Sea-Hog from Brazil; the gift of W. Piso.
• The Hand and Foot of a Mum­my; the gift of Fred. West­phalinek.
• A precious Stone in Ethiopia, call'd Heliotropium.
• Three Claws, with the Horn of a young Rhinoceros.
• An Egyptian Bean.
• A dried black Arm.
• A Book printed with China Cha­racters; [Page 86]the gift of Francis Porsiin.
• The Sceleton of a Mouse.
• A Thunder-bolt; given by Mel­chier de Moucheron.
• The Arm of an Egyptian Hero.
• An Egyptian Fly.
• The Sceleton of a new-born Child.
• A Flying-Hart; given by Francis Schurmans.
• An Egyptian Urn, in which is an Abortus embalm'd, above a Thousand Years old.
• A Viper, or Flying-Adder.
• The Cheek-bone of a Mummy.
• The Arteries of a Man's Liver.
• A Sea-Spider from New-York; given by Dr. Herman Bloen.
• Capricus Rondeletii.
• An Egytian Night-Owl.
• The Blood of a Crocodile.
• The Bladder of a Dog.
• [Page 87]A Piece of Bread of new and un­hnown Meal.
• A Mallet, or Hammer, that the Savages in New-York kill with; the gift of Herman Bloen.
• The Arm of an Egyptian Mummy; given by David de Willem.
• A little Bone taken out of the Pizzel of a Wolf.
• A little Stone found in Eagles Nests, call'd Lapillus Aetites.
• A Stone taken out of the Sto­mach of a Goose, brought from the Streights of Magellan.
• The Bladder of a Man.
• Lapis Nephriticus, or the Gravel-Stone.
• A Stone found in the Head of a Sea-Calf.
• A Bone of the Hearing Organ of a Whale; the gift of Dr. Jacob.
• Cuculo, commonly call'd a Sea-Cock.
• [Page 88]The Sceleton of a Fitcher.
• A small Bone taken out of the Penis of a Beaver.
• The double Bladder of a Fish.
• The Sceleton of a Frog.
• The Arteries of the Liver.
• The Sceleton of a Hedge-Hog.
• A Drinking-Cup of the Scull of a Moor, kill'd in the beleagu­ring of Haerlem.
• The Sceleton of a Water-Rat.
• A young Crocodile from Egypt; given by Prince Maurice.
• A Shepherd's Pipe from the Island of Maltha; given by Dr. John Van Horn.
• The Sceleton of a Chaffinch.
• A wooden Effigies of Osiris, whom the Egyptians worshipp'd as a God, now almost consum'd with Age.
• An Image of Isis, giving suck to her Son Orus.
• [Page 89]An Egyptian Coffer, in which are Aromatical Spices, for preser­ving of Bodies for Mummies.
• Three Egyptian Idols, made of Stone.
• A Drinking-Cup, made of a Tor­toise-Shell.
• An Indian Serpent's Eggs.
• The Sceleton of a Mole.
• The Arteries of the Lungs.
• A Water-Serpent.
• A brazen Effigies of Osiris, the Egyptian God.
• The Arm of an Egyptian Hero, embalm'd.
• A Bone embalm'd.
• A Fish call'd Schincus.
• A little Egyptian Coffer, upon which is engraven the Effigies of Isis, and in which is the Heart of an Egyptian Prince embalm'd; given by D. de Willem.
• [Page 90]The Hip-bone of a Giant; given by Sam. Mussenbrook.
• The Arteries of the Lungs of a Pig.
• Two strong Idols; given by Da­vid de Willem.
• A Cruse wrought in pollish'd Marble.
• A Triangular Fish; given by Mr. Husenbrook.
• The Mummy of an Egyptian Prince, above thirteen hun­dred Years old; given by Dr. Jo. Baptist. Bartoliti.
• A Pair of Sandals or Slippers from the Kingdom of Siam in the East-Indies.
• The Skin of an Indian Lizard.
• A Pair of Russian Shooes.
• The Skin of a Molucca Woman, above one hundred and fifty Years old; by Richard Snock.
• A Lion's Head.
• [Page 91]Two Images of the Japaneses; given by Adrian Pauwe.
• A Cheeck-bone of a Dog-Fish.
• A Flying Dragon.
• An Urn, call'd Ʋrna Ferulis Ro­mana, wherein the Romans pre­serv'd the Ashes of burnt Bo­dies; the gift of Dr. Daniel Gyffus.
• A Woman's Pudenda, with Hair of a great length.
• An Indian Lamprey.
• A Roman Earthen Vessel; given by Dr. Dan. Gyfius.
• A gilded Copper Idol from Siam.
• A Roman Bean.
• A China Pot; the Gift of Dr. Ja. Speck.
• A Box of white Powder, with which the Indians and Italians use to make the Hair fall off.
• The Bough of a Tree fenced with Stone; given by Dr. Harre­wiin.
• [Page 92] A Pair of Shooes made of Man's Leather.
• A Pair of Egyptian Sandals; the Gift of Dr. Ja. Leuven.
• A Sea-Horse out of the East-Indies.
• Some strange Indian Fish, and a flying Fish.
• A Roman Lamp which burns eternally; given by Dr. Dan. Ghisis.
• An Indian Sea-Spider.
• A piece of Rhubarb grown in the shape of a Dog's Head.
• A Basket wherein are Crocadile's Eggs; the Gift of Pr. Maurice.
• A Lizard.
• The Liver of a Man, in which is grown a Stone like a Ball.
• The Rib of a Sheep, with three Branches sprouting out.
• The Hearing-Organ of a Man.
• China Figgs.
• [Page 93]A Basket in which is Moscovian and other Country Money.
• The Arteria Magna of a Man.
• Some Egyptian Glassing, or Cup­ping Vessels.
• The Sceleton of a Serpent; the Gift of Adam Bornius.
• A Dish of Lapis Ossifragus, or fine Bone-stone; the Gift of John Boumanno.
• An Indian Knife.
• A Stone which was found in the Os Sacrum, or the great Bone upon which the Ridge-bone resteth.
• A Ball call'd Mansa, found in a Cows Stomach.
• A great Cassia Fistula from Bra­zil; given by Prince Maurice.
• A great deal of very large Am­ber; the Gift of Daniel Beck­ler.
• An American Bean.
• [Page 94]An Indian guilded Wooden Cup; the Gift of Dr. Jam. Stelling­worf.
• A black Fly, call'd a Beetle, brought from the Cape of good Hope.
• Some grown Coral.
• A Cup made of a double Brain­pan; given by Dr. de Bills.
• The Brain-pan of an Ostrich.
• A Puff, or Mushroom, of a vast greatness.
• A Sceleton of a Child newly born.
• A Sceleton of a Child, but four Months old in the Womb.
• The Image of the Goddess For­tune; the Gift of D. Gyfius.
• A great Bone found in the Body of a Woman of Ʋlarding, be­ing ninety Years old.
• A Sword-Fish.
• All the Muscles of a Man, very [Page 95]curiously done, by Professor Stulpent Vander Wiel.
• All the Muscles of a Child.
• A young Hangman, married un­der the Gallows.
• Two new-born Children, very curiously anatomis'd.

The Physick Garden is a square but small piece of ground, very well stock'd with almost all sorts of Medicinal Herbs, Roots, Plants, &c. and other Curiosi­ties; the choicest Things are kept in Glass-Cases; on the left-hand is a Room full of Foreign Rarities, both of Sea and Land, very neatly kept.

Then we saw the Printing-Press in the University Yard, fa­mous for the fine Characters of Monsieur Jean Elseviers; then the University, which is a neat [Page 96]oldish Building; it has three Halls for Publick Lectures, seve­ral Chambers, where they take their Degrees; upon the Table of one of 'em we saw Aristotle's Works, and some Civil Law-Books; the Professor's Closets are full of extraordinrry Curio­sities. The Students have no Colleges or Halls to lodge and diet in, (as in Oxford and Cam­bridge,) but board in the Citi­zens Houses; their Tutors are very careful of them, and dili­gent in keeping them close to their Exercises, both at Publick Lectures, and in their Private Examinations, for which they have appointed Hours, and at which they are very punctual: 'Tis a celebrated Accademy, ha­ving continually in it about two Thousand, half Natives, and the [Page 97]rest Hungarians, Grecians, Ger­mans, Polanders, French, English, Scots, and Irish; of which three last are computed about one hundred. Here they take their Degrees easier, and cheaper, and without that Pomp and extra­vagant Expence in practice in England.

Here are but two Colleges, and those very small, not to be mention'd at the same time with the meanest in Oxford, or Cam­bridge; nor are they endow'd, they receive their Maintenance from the Charity-Collections of the Dutch Ministers; nor can any Students remain longer here than till they attain the Degree of Batchelors of Art.

Here is a high very Tower, where they keep their Astronomi­cal Instruments, and whence they [Page 98]make their Observations, and Calculations of the Motions of the Celestial Bodies: This Place was built for the Use and Ser­vice of the Astronomers an Astro­logers; of the first they have some pretty Eminent, tho' of the latter none, that we could hear of, that Learning is not in much esteem with them; tho' if it were divided into proper Parts, viz. into Mundane, or General Affairs of the World; Geni­tures, or Particular Nativities, with their Revolutions, Directi­ons, Profections, Transits, &c. Horary Questions with their So­lutions; and, lastly, into the Weather, with its great variety and sudden alterations: I say, if these four Parts, or Divisions, were to be studied, and im­prov'd by as many several Pro­fessors, [Page 99]with a College, and En­dowment, for that very Purpose set apart, it might prove of vast benefit and advantage to Man­kind, there being many excel­lent Things in Astrology, and very great Truths to be found out by a due application. But Priestcraft is every where so pre­valent, that 'tis oppos'd by those Gentlemen, who think their In­terest would hereby be les­sen'd.

Here is an old Burgh, built by the Romans, or Saxons, for­merly a Castle belonging to the Prince of Liege, some Years since repair'd, and made a good Fortification, of great Use and Service against the Spaniards in the renown'd Defence the City of Leyden made against them who besieg'd it Anno 1544, or [Page 100]rather Anno 1573, presently af­ter Easter; which by a Strata­gem was rais'd the third of Octo­ber following, by the Prince of Orange, who letting loose the Waters, which were before re­strain'd by great Dykes, reliev'd the City, and ruin'd the Spanish Army, who by this means suf­fer'd an entire Defeat; but now this Burgh is converted into a Garden, with a very pretty La­byrinth in it, newly made up, and neatly kept: It belongs to a Tavern, and has drinking Ar­bors in it; we went up by a ve­ry steep ascent of near a hun­dred Steps, whence we took a view of the Country round a­bout.

The English have part of a Church here.

Their Stadthouse is a good old Building, and stands in a handsome broad Street.

This City is very Populous, abounding with Strangers, led by Curiosity to see this Place, and its Rarities; as also by the residence of many to study, (as I said before) having had the Fame of breeding up many ex­cellent and learned Men in all Faculties.

Here are also great Manufa­ctures of Woollen, and Linnen-Cloth, Perpetuana's, Sayes, Serges, Stuffs, and Camlets; of the first they send abundance to Turkey, whence they bring Mohair to make their Camlets; also they import fine Wool from Spain, and course from England and Poland: Abundance of Walloons live here, as also of many other [Page 102]Nations, concern'd in their Woollen and Linnen Trades.

This City has under its Juris­diction seventy two Towns in the Country of Rhinelandt, and has very great Privileges, be­cause it appear'd very Coura­gious against the Spaniards upon all Occasions. Anno 1616 it was burnt by Misfortune, but soon re-built, more stately than ever; 'tis a very pretty, neat, and plea­sant Place, fine Houses, large and clean Streets, many Canals, adorn'd with Rows of Trees on each side; situated upon the Rhine, the Centre of Holland. Here are several great Libraries, as indeed there are in many Towns in this Province, several belonging to private Men. Here was Heinsius the famous Poet born; and here lies buried the [Page 103]great Scaliger in our Lady's Church, built Anno 1370, which now belongs to the French and Walloons.

In this Place are famous Ma­sters of the French, Italian, and Spanish Tongues, for Arms, Dan­cing, Musick, Mathematicks, in the Whole, or Parts, and Astro­logy. We went to St. Peter's Church, built Anno 1121, indeed their Churches are generally good ones: The Walks round this City are pleasant, and the Fortifications very agreeable to behold. A Native of this Town, was the Taylor, who, to his ru­ine, made himself King of the Anabaptists in Munster.

From hence we went by Wa­ter to HAERLEM, Haerlem. twelve Miles farther, a large and fine City in this Province; 'tis seated near a [Page 104]Lake of that Name, a League off the Sea, and four from Leyden, with which it has Communica­tion by a Canal made Anno 1656. There are near it delicate Mea­dows, a delightful Forrest, and a great number of fair and weal­thy Villages, which make it ve­ry pleasant. Within it is beau­tified with fine Piazza's, a good (tho' old) Town-House, (the worst in all this Province) and many other Publick Edifices. Pope Paul the Fifth, at the Re­quest of Philip the Second King of Spain, made it a Bishop's See, suffragan to the Archbishop of Ʋtrecht. Anno 1347 it was al­most reduced to Ashes, but soon after re-built much more stately than ever. In the Year 1572 the Inhabitants shoke off the Spanish Yoke and Religion toge­ther, [Page 105]and embraced the Re­formed. They were besieged not long after by Frederick To­ledo, the Duke of Alva's Son, and after a stout and bloody resi­stance, for the space of eight Months, were forced to surren­der themselves at Discretion, whereby they became a Prey to the Spaniard's Cruelty; but this Town was since re-taken by the Ʋnited States. This Place glo­ries in the Invention of Printing, said to be found out here first, Anno 1420, by one Lawrence Coster, one of the Burghers, whose Stock of Letters was stollen away by a Servant of his, and carried into Germany, whi­ther he went himself, and reco­verd them at Cologn, and soon after perfected his Invention at that Place, having in Haerlem [Page 106]only found out the way of printing on one side of the Paper; the first Book he ever printed is kept in the Stadthouse, for those that are Curious to see it, and is Tully's Offices. Germany would fain rob Haerlem of the Honour of this Useful Inventi­on; and Mayence, a considerable and ancient City in the Circle of the Lower Rhine, puts in her Claim first: Printing was long before this in Use amongst the Chinese.

Here they brew good Beer, which is sent to Friesland by Sea, which puts it into a new fer­ment, and by that means makes it much better, and more pala­table; as our Hull Ale is when brought to London by Shipping. 'Tis a neat, well-built, pleasant Place, having Rows of Trees on [Page 107]each side of their Burgh-wall, or Canal, of which they have not so many here as in other Cities: Their Gates are removed, and their City enlarg'd, for their In­habitants encrease, and grow rich, being renowned for ma­king the finest Linnen Cloth, Tiffanies, Damask, and flower'd Silks, Stuffs, Ribands, and Tapes; they have Mills by which they can weave forty or fifty Pieces at a time; they make the finest Thred and Tapes for Lace in the whole World; their Blea­cheries surpass all other what­soever; their Water whitening Cloth better than any other in the Seventeen Provinces; they use Butter-Milk frequently to make their Linnen look so deli­cately; they are very Skilful and Curious in Washing, for [Page 108]hither is sent from Amsterdam, Leyden, and all round about, the fine Linnen, and choice Laces to be wash'd, which the principal People of those Places wear the whole Year about, but usually have enough wash'd in the Sum­mer to last them all the Winter, having by them always a great Stock of wearing Linnen. The French Court, some Years since, sent for some of the chief Laun­dresses, and were mightily pleas'd with their Skill and Neatness; rewarded them well, and sent them back big bellied.

Here they have a most plea­sant Grove, like a little Wood, divided into Walks, where on Sundays and Holy-days, the Ci­tizens of Amsterdam, and other Places, resort to divert them­selves.

Here is one of the fairest and largest Churches in all these Provinces; in the Walls whereof remain to this day Cannon Bul­lets sticking, which were shot by the Spaniards during the Siege thereof, before-mention'd; in this Church are three Organs, two old, one new, all kept very neatly; as also the Models of the three Ships that sail'd from Haer­lem to Damiater, seizing the Ca­stle in which the Earl of Holland was kept Prisoner, and brought him away home. In the Tower of this Church hang two Silver Bells, which they also brought from thence, and now ring them every Night at Nine a Clock.

Haerlem is the Second City of Holland, and sends its Deputies unto all the Colleges of the Government.

After having seen all that was Rare and Curious, and diverted our selves as long as we thought fit, to which End we spar'd nei­ther Money nor Time, we re­solv'd to leave this Place, and advance towards Amsterdam, which we did, and so for six Stivers apiece we took the Pas­sage Boat, and when we were come half way, we stept out of that, to go into another, and then we saw a stately House, where the Lords, call'd Dyk­graves, meet, and sit, to take Care of, and Repair the Sea and Land Dykes, or Banks; each has his Appartment provided for him. Here are two very large Sluces, having Gates to let Wa­ter in or out from the Haerlem meer. Near this Place, about the Year 1672, a part of the Sea­bank [Page 111]was broken by a strong North-West Wind, overflowing all the Land betwixt Haerlem and Amsterdam, which cost a vast and prodigious Summ to repair. They sunk in this Breach four hundred small Vessels, fill'd with Earth and Stones, for a Founda­tion to re-build the Wall upon, and by unspeakable Industry, and immense Charges, at last compleated the Work. Here we met with a very pleasant and remarkable Story, from an elderly Dutch Man, who enter­tain'd us with it, till we almost got to our Journey's end for that Night. 'Twas thus; An eminent Farrier that liv'd near this Place, having an Apprentice that was so very dull and stu­pid, that he could not, after some Years teaching, do any [Page 102]manner of Thing relating to his Profession; the Master being uneasie, and unwilling to keep a Servant, that eat up his Bread, but did him no Service, one day brought him before the Burgo-Masters, or chief Magistrates of Haerlem, and desir'd that he might be discharged from him, urging that he was so great a Blockhead, that he could not make a Horse-Shooe Nail, much less a Horse-Shooe, or set it on either: The Magistrates ask'd the Fellow what he could say for himself against what his Ma­ster alledged; he replied, That he was above that Trade; upon which, his Master being ask'd by the Magistrates concerning the Youth's Birth and Parentage, declared, that he was a mere Scoundrel, and that he took him [Page 113]in pure Charity, his Father and Mother were Labouring Peo­ple, and but a little better than Beggars: Then the Magi­strates ask'd the Fellow what he meant; he answer'd, That he could drain Haerlem-meer easier than make a Horse-Shooe; at which the Burgo-Masters (think­ing it next to Impossible) laught; however, they discharg'd his Master, and took the Youngster in private, and examin'd him closely, and finding he had a Mathematical Head, they told him, they would advance a good Summ of Money, and set him at work; which they did, and when he had compleated his Engines, he fixt them, and in a short time recover'd a great deal of dry Land; the Fame of which brought great Numbers [Page 114]of People of all Qualities, and Professions, to see this mighty En­gineer; and being told the for­mer part of the Story, they were surpris'd: The Money be­ing expended, the Operator attended the Magistrates, and gave them an Account of it, and told them, he could not go on, except they would advance him more Money; which they (being mere Mamonists) refus'd to do; upon which he cunning­ly drew off the Work-men, and in the Night destroy'd the best Engine, (in which the great Secret lay, and which was made in Private by his Hand alone) and pull'd out some Pins out of others, and in a very short space of Time laid the whole Land under Water as it was before; away he fled to Antwerp, getting [Page 115]far enough out of the reach of his Employers, who now (tho' too late) began to be sensible of their Stinginess, and would have given double the Summ to have had their Engineer again; however, to obtain their End, having heard where he was (by a Letter he sent to a Friend at Haerlem,) they made fresh Ap­plication to him, and new Offers, which he slighted; then they made use of Stratagems and Slights to get him away private­ly and by force; which failing, they address'd the Governor (a Spaniard, then in open War against the States) to send him back; who, calling him before him, examin'd the Lad about the Affair, and finding how basely the Magistrates had dealt with him, and what an ingenious [Page 116]Fellow he was, refus'd to gratifie them; then they attempted by new, large, and more generous Offers, to gain him to come vo­luntarily to them; to which at last he consented, and being upon his Journey to Haerlem, fell sick of a Fever, and so died by the way, and with him died also that mighty and matchless Project; since which they have not been able to do any thing in that Matter, the Water of that Meer being vast in its extent, and very deep, even to be Na­vigable, for we saw several Ves­sels of Burden then upon it un­der sail.

About half an Hour past seven that Evening we arriv'd at AMSTERDAM, Amster­dam. a vast, rich, populous, and beautiful City, equal to most in Christendom, [Page 117]the Metropolis of all the Low-Countries, in North Holland, in the Territory of Amsterdam; once Imperial, now subject to the Sates-General of the Ʋnited-Provinces: It stands on the River Amstel, by an excellent Haven, (tho' the Coasts of Holland a­bound with Sands, which render their Harbors more difficult and dangerous to enter,) nigh the Zuider-Zee, 80 Miles North of Antwerp, 210 almost East of London, 250 almost North of Paris, 380 South-West of Copen­bagen, and 560 almost West of Vienna. Longitude 24 deg. 00 min. Latitude 52 deg. 29 min.

This vast City was at first but a small Castle, and call'd Amstel, taking its Name from the River upon which it was built, and gave Title to the [Page 118]Lords the Founders. Soon after the Inhabitants encreas'd, and apply'd themselves to Fishing, and were contented to live in thatched Cottages; this Employ­ment begat a Trade amongst their Nighbours, and mighti­ly enrich'd themselves; so that the Happiness and Commodious­ness of their Situation invited a greater Number of People to come thither, to reside there; which, from a small and con­temptible Village, soon made it a very considerable Town. Anno 1235 they had certain Immunities granted them by Florentius the Fourth; after this they be­gan to build 'em Bridges and Towers; the Inhabitants also built new Houses in the Neigh­bourhood, and then the Borough began to take upon it the Name [Page 119]of the City of Amsterdam, which was then united to the Country of Holland, and having receiv'd new and greater Privileges, which were confirm'd by succeeding Princes, they by their Trade and Industry became very Potent; tho' as yet this City had no Walls but only a Palisado until Anno 1482. It surrender'd to William of Nassaw, after a tedi­ous and obstinate Siege. Thus in length of Time, is this incon­siderable Place become the most celebrated Emporium of the Uni­verse, vying with the greatest Cities in the World, in the great number of its Ships, and the con­veniency it has of fitting them out; it now drives the greatest part of the Commerce which was formerly carried on by those ancient and renown'd Ci­ties, [Page 120] Antwerp, Sevil, and Lisbon: 'Tis the Second City in the World for Trade, and the First, we are of Opinion, for Wealth. 'Tis not so large (by much) as Pa­ris, or London, tho' it has swell'd prodigiously of late Years in Big­ness, Beauty, and Magnitude; these noble Streets, call'd by them Grafts or Canals, distinguish'd by the Names of Carsars, Lords, and Cingel, &c. are wondrous fine; the Fronts great, and lofty; good French Glass, tho' no Sashes; the Rooms large, and stately; Pavements of fine Black and White Marble; good Painting, but not much extraordinary Carving; Silver'd and guilt Leather of great variety, much in Vogue to hang their Cham­bers with; every Thing and Place very neat and nicely kept, [Page 121](sometimes even to excess) and pretty well contrived, tho' (we speak without partiality) not so well as the new Houses building in and about London. The late Wars with England put a check to the Buildings in, and Enlarge­ments of this Place, but as soon as they were over, they went on, and even now, during this pre­sent War, (the worst they ever were engag'd in) they are building in several Places, at the ends of the great Streets; but then the Houses are but small, and ordinary, compar'd to those above-mention'd, being only fit for the middling People, whereas the t'other are for the wealthiest Merchants, and greatest Men among them.

The first thing we took no­tice of in this mighty and vast [Page 122]City, that was remarkable, was the manner of their laying their Foundations, on which they build all their Houses, both great and small, private and publick, which is thus; Above fifty or sixty lusty Fellows, with a pon­derous Engine of Brass or Iron, force into the Ground a great many Masts, (which occasions a Saying among them, That their City stands upon Masts, and lives by Masts, meaning their Ship­ping,) upon which they build; the Earth is Boggy, Muddy at top, and a pretty way, but San­dy lower, and their Houses are firm, and secure, and stand as long as any other, tho' reckon'd better founded. This we saw in our way to the Stadthouse or Guild-Hall, which is so renown'd all over the World, and which [Page 123]call'd for our Curiosity first, and with which we entertain'd and diverted our selves a great while, as we hope we shall do the Reader, who (if he never saw it) will passionately desire to go thither for the sake of this noble Pile, and many other great Rarities, and Curiosities, no where else to be found.

This Stadthouse, or Guild-Hall, is a most noble and magnificent Pile of Building, all after the modern Italian Architecture; 'tis the stateliest Piece we ever saw, 'tis the Wonder and Dis­course of all the World, the Pride of Amsterdam, and the Glory of the Seven Provinces: The Entrance is mean, and con­temptible, under seven small Pi­azza's, or Arches, which won­defully abate its Beauty, which [Page 124]we told the Dutch, and which they own'd, for there is nothing gives a great and noble Piece of Building more Advantage, than a large Portico, or Entrance, which makes the approach Mag­nificent; and a large Cupolo to diffuse the Light; which last this has, tho' in many places 'tis too dark, which is a great defect in Architecture; 'tis all of Free-Stone of the Corinthian Order, beautified with Brass-Statues, and Marble Carvings, done by the greatest Masters of the Age. it is 282 Feet wide, 232 Feet deep, and 116 Feet high, besides the Cupolo 50 Feet high, which is a very handsom one, and a great Ornament; in it is a good sett of Bells, which ring not out like ours, but are made to chime.

This Foundation is laid as those I mention'd before, and accounted to stand on 13657 Piles of Masts driven (after the manner I spoke of, Page 122.) into the Ground; the front is adorn'd with a fine Piece of Car­ving in Marble, 82 Feet long, and 18 Feet high, representing this City in the Person of a Wo­man with Neptune, Lord high Admiral of the Seas, and two Salt-Water Goddesses, his Mi­stresses, laden with the Fruits of the Earth, all on the Right-hand, bringing them as Presents to this mighty Lady: And on her Left are two Naides, offer­ing her Lawrels and Palms; and before her two Triton's dance, and sound their Horns. On the top stands a Statue of Brass, representing Peace; and on each [Page 126]side one shewing Providence and Justice, each Figure twelve Feet in length. And on the Back of this noble Pile is such another Piece of Carving, representing the Trade and Greatness of the City. In the Centre sits a Wo­man with the Hat and Wings of Mercury, with the Masts and Sails, and other Rigging of a Ship behind her, and all sorts of Navigating Instruments around her; at her Feet lie the two Rivers of Ʋk and Amstel, the In­habitants of Europe, Asia, Afri­ca, and America, presenting her their Products. Here are three Brasen Statues, as large as those in the Front before-mention'd; one is an Atlas, with a very large Copper Plate; on his right-hand Temperance, and on his left Justice. On the four Cor­ners [Page 127]of this Great House stand four Brazen Eagles, but Guilt very neatly, supporting an Im­perial Crown.

Upon our right-hand as we enter'd this stately Fabrick, is their Hall of Justice, finely a­dorn'd with Carved Works in Marble, with Solomon on the Judgment-Seat, deciding the Controversie between the sham and real Mother of the Child; and several other such Phansies, too many to be particular in: In this Place is the famous Bank of the World kept, supported more by Credit than Cash, tho' they want not the last, yet are not Masters of so much as they vapour, of Millions of Tuns of Gold, each Tun valu'd at ten thousand Pounds Sterling, (as we were inform'd by one who [Page 128]knew the Secret;) but thus much may be said for it, That it is a mighty Establishment, the Support as well as the Glory of their State; they write off more Money here in one Day than at the Banks of Venice, Genoa, Pa­ris, or Hamburgh, all together in two, and have more real Coin and Bullion than those Three. They are very jealous of the new establish'd Bank in England, and oppose its Interests as much as they can, for it draws abun­dance of their Profits away from thence; they have visibly de­clin'd, since that was set up, the Great Interest, viz. Eight per Cent. the English give, encou­rag'd the Foreigners to send Commissions for Subscriptions; and it being a Parliamentary Security, they esteem it Sacred, [Page 129]Sound, and Secure; no People in the World pay such a Vene­ration to that August Assembly as these, for they are in Pain when ever there is the least Con­vulsion in the Senate, upon whose Conduct, the Good of the Kingdom, and almost all Eu­rope, especially of the Reform'd Religion, they know, so much depends.

The States and Magistrates of Amsterdam are the Security for this Bank; the Integrity of the Commissioners and other Offi­cers, the Safety of the Money here deposited, the Promptness of the Payment, the Goodness of the Species, the Easiness of Transferring it, the Reputati­on of the State, are the great Inducements of the People of all Nations in Europe, as well [Page 130]as their own, to lodge their Cash here.

In this House is the City Pri­sons for Debtors and Criminals. Here is the City Guard kept, by the Citizens only, where the Keys of the greatest Gates are locked up every Night.

Up a pair of good Stairs, tho' not large, but darkish, is the Common-Hall for the Citizens to meet, 'tis 120 Feet long, 57 broad, and 98 high. Here is the famous Mosaique or Brass inlaid Globes, both Celestial and Terrestial, in the Floor, wherein may be found all the known World, and all the Zodiacal Signs, Constellations, and Pla­nets in the Heavens; the fixt Stars are most curiously done, plain and very easie to be found; we often came hither in wet [Page 131]Weather to divert our selves with running over these Globes, each 22 Feet Diameter; this is a noble Piece. At the End of this Hall the Judges sit, in a par­ticular Chamber, to try all Ci­vil Causes. Here are abundance of other Offices, or Chambers, as the Council-Chamber, where the Common-Council meet to make Laws, elect Burgo-Masters, or Lord-Mayors, Sheriffs, Judges, Deputies to serve in the great Assemblies at the Hague. Here are Treasury-Chambers, Cham­bers of Accompts, an Office for the Commissioners for Bank­rupts, who meet not to destroy (as in England) but to preserve the Estates of those infortunate Men, who are commiserated by their Laws, and Constituti­ons, and not ruin'd with their [Page 132]Families for ever. These Com­missioners compound for the Debtors, and oblige their Cre­ditors to be satisfied with what can be done, and suffer them not to hurry them away to Pri­son, to lie and rot, (as some Barbarians let their Debtors in other places,) but receive part of their Debts, and remain con­tented till the Man be able to pay the rest, who has a part of his Estate left to begin the World again, that is, to go to Trade again, who often by his Industry, and good Fortune, gets a great Estate, and paies every Body to a Farthing. This is Conduct, this is Management, this is Prudence to be prais'd: But when will the English Na­tion be so happy to imitate them in this? Truly, I fear, never. [Page 133]There need be no Mint, White-Friers, Savoy, or other Sanctua­ries, if they were put in practice; there need not, I say, be so ma­ny starving in all the Holes and Corners of the Town, who are capable of employing their Time well, and getting of Money, and have as good Heads, and as able Bodies, and are as fit for all sorts of Business, as any People in the World: The English are more Mercurial than the Dutch, but their National Constitutions are not so adapted for the Good of each Individual.

Here the chief Officers for Go­vernment of the Hospitals meet, and manage all Affairs relating to them very prudently. Here are Chambers belonging to the Secretaries, and others, too ma­ny and too long to describe; [Page 134]with a proper Motto or Devize over each; as particularly that over the Chamber of the Com­missions of Bankrupts, is cut in Marble, Fortune flying away with Wings, Money-Chests turn'd up-side down, Mice and Rats eating Bags, Pens, and Pa­per-Books.

Here is a great Magizine of Arms kept for the City's Safety and Service, all neatly kept, and preserv'd in Presses; they told us they could arm, in four Hours time, twenty thousand Men compleatly for Action At the top of this great House are eight great Cisterns, always kept full of Water, to be ready on all Occasions, with Pipes of Leather to communicate them to all Parts of this Building, if any Fire should happen; and [Page 135]the Chimneys we saw were all secur'd by Copper within, to prevent even the Sut taking fire; and these great Precautions are us'd, not only because of the vast Treasure, and Accompts lodged here, but because their old Stadthouse, which was but an ordinary Piece to this, was by accident suddenly reduced to Ashes.

This is one of the most popu­lous and beautiful Cities in the World; their Buildings are no­ble, large, and magnificent; their Streets broad, (no croud­ing there for the Wall, as at Lon­don,) clean, (even to the wea­ring of Slippers in Winter,) and neatly paved with French Peble, in Sand, which drinks up, and laid high, which throws off the Water into their Canals, [Page 136]which are very large, and nu­merous here, cleans'd by the daily ebbing and flowing of the Tide, and deep enough to bear Lighters of Burden, which un­lade their Ships, and bring up the Merchandise to their very Doors; between their Houses are most pleasant Rows of Trees, and Lamps between them, and very thick, (one to two Dwel­lings,) which in Night give a delightful Prospect, and burn late, to answer the Ends of Busi­ness, or Conversation: These, as well as the Trees, are pre­serv'd with great Care, and he's a hardy Fellow that dares break the Glass of one, or the Boughs of t'other, and is sure of severe Punishment, which they never fail to admister; and, to terrifie the Youth, and the Mob, they [Page 137]have in several Places set up on a Board painted neatly; The Ex­ecutioner whipping some, and cut­ting off the Hands of others for those Crimes; which, by this means, are rarely heard of.

Here is neither Court, nor University, yet wonderfully a­bounds with People, of most Nations; a great many Travel­lers always, passing and re-pas­sing; 'tis a mighty Thorow­fair.

We walk'd round the Walls of this City, which are strong with Bastions, of modern Forti­fication of Earth, faced with Brick, built Anno 1660, forty or fifty Whole and Half-Can­non mounted on Carriages; the Points flank one another, with a very large deep Ditch or Ca­nal round three parts of it; the [Page 138]fourth being secur'd by an Arm of the Sea, seven strong beauti­ful Gates, and several Guard-Houses, sixteen hundred Soldi­ers in constant pay, cloathed and maintain'd by the City, whose Livery they wear, which is Grey Cloth lined, and faced with Green; four hundred do Duty every Night. 'Tis rare to hear of any Disorders com­mitted here in the Nitht-time, notwithstanding the great num­ber and variety of Inhabitants and Strangers, and their conti­nual Fiddling, all Night long, and Gaming, which they do ve­ry much here; no Quarrels, no Heads broke, no Watch-Men scour'd, or Assailants knock'd down; no Swords drawn, no sending to the Counter, to lodge there all Night; no breaking [Page 139]of Windows, pulling down of Signs, and Barber's Poles, (man­ly Acts indeed!) no, not the least Mischief done (at least seldom;) if Drunk, they reel quietly home, and hasten to Bed to sleep it away; Robberies Nocturnal are rare, the Clapper-Men (as they call them) go a­bout every half Hour, and make a Noise with their Rattles, and tell the Time of the Night, and trouble no Body with a Whither go ye? or, a Come before the Con­stable, and be ask'd twenty silly impertinent Questions. Indeed the Houses here are made very strong, abundance of Iron-work for Ornament and Safety, Shut­ters within and without, ve­ry thick, and with strong Bolts, all neatly painted, to the very Garrets, with Green, Red and [Page 140]White, which look very pret­ty.

We went into the new great Church, built by the Reform'd; here is the biggest Organ we ever saw, and plaies so very fine, that you would almost swear there were human Voices; nor did we ever see such a Pulpit in the World as there is in another great Church, built broad at the lower part, and so up like a Pyramid, all very curiously car­ved; then the Brass Skreen of mighty Bars, and de Rutter's (their Renown'd Admirals) Mo­nument, erected at the States Charge, which cost two thou­sand Pounds Sterling; never was the Life of so great a Man so tamely and weakly thrown away, for he was sent to assist the Spaniards against the French, [Page 141]who (upon the Revolt of the Messineses) made themselves Masters of that noble Island; a little before the Engagement, in which he was slain, an English Gentleman went on board his Ship, and welcom'd him into those Parts, and told him the French Squadron of Men of War was very strong, and that he was troubled to see his so weak, and wonder'd the States would so expose Him, his Life, and Ho­nour; to which he answer'd, That where e'er his Master thought fit to venture their Flag, he would venture his Life; which he did, and lost it, to his Masters shame, to send him at the Head of a poor Squadron, ill mann'd and provided, that had commanded their whole Navy.

Here are but thirteen Churches in this vast City, but then they are very large ones, much big­ger than ours in England, but no where so numerous; these all belong to the Calvinists, or Reform'd Dutch Presbyterians; some of which we were in Com­pany with, and found them ve­ry honest, moderate, good Men, not so hot and fiery as our own; they laugh'd at us for being so very zealous for, and speaking so high of the Church of En­gland; but we told them they had no reason, for we under­stood they were as zealous for the Church of Holland, and would suffer none but the Mem­bers of that to come into the Civil Government, which was a good way to preserve it; which they own'd: And we added, [Page 143]that if the English were as wise in that very Particular, they would be a happy Nation; but, as the Interests and Factions sway'd at Court, so were the Church-men either valu'd or slighted, taken into, or thrown out of Place, and that this shift­ing and changing of Persons, and fluctuating of Councils, was very pernicious to the true In­terest of the Nation, and that the only means to keep the Go­vernment steddy, and unshaken, was to fill all the Civil Employ­ments of Trust, Profit, and Ho­nour, with sound Members of the establish'd Church of En­gland, who were the only Men that could and would support Monarchy and Episcopacy, the best Church and Government in the World.

Here are two French Churches, one of 'em has been lately en­larged above a third part, 'tis well Wainscoted, and has a small plain Wainscot Organ.

Here is one English Church, to which we went the first Sun­day after our arrival, it was for­merly a Popish Chapel; it has yet a Nunnery adjoyning to it, we saw some of the neat Nuns: Here is sorry Preaching, a long, dull, tedious Sermon, an hour and three quarters, about two hundred Auditors, and some­times four or five hundred, all Presbyterians.

The King of England has a Consul here, who makes some small Figure, and sits in an emi­nent Pew in the Church, and has some Respect paid him.

Here is also one High-Dutch Church, or German; these are all allow'd the Use of Bells, and their Ministers are paid by the Magistrates, as are their own, about 200 Pounds Sterling per Annum; some more, some less, besides Presents of Spices, and other Things, they receive once a Year, viz. at Christmas.

The Roman Catholicks are ve­ry numerous here, as also in the Towns and Villages in this and other Provinces; they have in this City alone fourscore and five Chapels or Mass-Rooms, have no Bells allow'd 'em, are oblig'd to have their Doors al­ways open, and are tolerated, as all others are here; they have a large Square of Houses for their Religious to live, but not to be cloister'd up in, who have a [Page 146]Liberty to go, or stay at Plea­sure; and to live singly, or to be married, which they like best.

Great Numbers of Lutherans are here, and have a very fine Church; and Jews in abundance, who have many Streets here, and two Synagogues; one a ve­ry fine one, and the largest in Europe (if not in the World) being much Superior to those we our selves saw in many o­ther Parts, where the Jews are most numerous; in the Yards they have large Schools to edu­cate their Children, and instruct them in the Principles of their Religion, and to learn the Ho­ly Language, as the Hebrew is call'd.

Here are Armenians, Brownists, or English Independents, Anabap­tists, [Page 147]and Quakers, but not very many of the last: We were at all their Conventicles, and heard 'em mouth out their Noise and Nonsense, much against our Humour, but when we were once in, we thought 'twould be indecent to go out till all was over; they are very Zealous and Furious, and thunder out strange sort of rattling incohe­rent Stuff; we pittied their Ig­norance, but found they retain the same Heat abroad as at home. All these Dissenters from the establish'd Church of Hol­land, must be first married by the Magistrates, and afterwards, if they will, among themselves after their own Mode: But, as I said before, they take care to exclude all these Puritan Pre­tenders out of their Civil Go­vernment, [Page 148]but they may go in­to their Military, by Sea, or by Land, and be knock'd on the Head, if they please.

Here are three great Sluces, and Bridges almost without number, which were formerly of Wood, but are now of good Stone, with very strong, and neat Iron-work, not only of great Conveniency for Commu­nication betwixt Street and Street, but also of great Beau­ty and Ornament. They are apt in Laziness (which is not commmon) to throw their Filth into their Burghals, or Canals, which causes ill Scents and Fumes, and which is a nasty thing, but 'tis prohibited, and punish'd when discover'd.

Amsterdam is the World's Ware-House, for here are vast [Page 149]Magazines of all sorts of Mer­chandise; hither are brought Goods from all Parts of the dis­cover'd Globe, and here they are laid up for a Market, and when ever they are in demand, hence they are sent forth: Here is the great and general Store-House for Corn, of which, tho' they have but little grows in their own Country, yet they serve their Neighbours with it, and are great Dealers, some of their Merchants trading only in this Commodity are said to be worth above a hundred thousand Pounds Sterling; they supply the Armies when in Campaign, and make great Advantage thereby, as also by the Exchange of Monies: Here are also al­ways vast Stores of Provisions of War, for the Sea and Land [Page 150]Service, Arms, Powder, Ball, Buff-Coats, Belts, Match, Ship-Timber, Iron-Works, Masts, Pitch, Tar, Hemp, Canvas, &c.

Then for Spices, with which they serve all Europe, and part of Asia, which formerly was done by the Venetians, but now by the Dutch East-India Com­pany; surely 'tis not the Fate of Commonwealths only to be Masters of such mighty Com­merce!

We hir'd a Yacht, and sail'd up and down the River before the City, to view that and their Shipping, which lie before it in the Form of a Half-Moon, and look like a Wood; they have abundance of small Vessels con­tinually sailing to and fro; we went to Sardam, a great Village [Page 151]about a League off, where we saw on the Stocks almost a hun­dred Sail of Ships, all for the Merchants Service; they under­work and under-sell all their Neighbour-Nations, who us'd to come hither to buy Ships, which they could considerably cheaper than at home; they are very slight, ill-built Ships, like other things for sale.

Here are Mills of many sorts, almost without number, chiefly to saw Timber for Ships; some to make Paper; the People are subtil and very rich, live sparing­ly on Butter-Milk, Whey, with Herbs and pickled Herrings, and Rye-Bread; some great Mer­chants live here; others Insurers, but most Ship-Builders and Ship-Carpenters: Their Houses are very ordinary, and built of [Page 152]Wood; two or three Churches, one ordinary, one new built of Brick; t'other lately enlarg'd, for the Inhabitants encrease. Here they build Ships of War upon occasion, having abundance of Hands, and can run 'em up presently: Here we saw some few Beggars, and except some Foreigners (most French) at Amsterdam, we met with no Beg­gars in all our Travels in these Provinces: The Natives chuse to be Out-liers, rather than come to Amsterdam, where they shall have Bread, but they must work for it. In our return we took notice of the vast number of their Shipping, their Greenland Fleet makes a great show, being about six or seven hundred Sail, which breeds abundance of Sea­men, and employs abundance [Page 153]of Shipping, but is not very gainful to the Adventurer, for they often make bad Voiages, killing but a few Whales; the very Ships stinks of their Oil, so we easily found them out. When we came ashoar, we walk'd along their Keys or Wharfs, and view'd the Shipping that way, they were numerous indeed, that part of their Fleet which lies here consists of about fifty Sail, great and small, several new ones on the Stocks; they are now hard at work to get them ready, and to rig the rest, to be early at Sea next Spring: The States have here a great Magazine for the Navy, and all things in great order, and well preserv'd.

We saw the East-India Com­panies Magazine, consisting of Ware-Houses, and Cellars, where [Page 154]are vast Quantities of Spices of all sorts, (the worst and oldest of which they sell first, and send to their Neighbours, Callico's, Silks, &c. 'Tis a large, new, well-built House, with a Moat round about it, and Draw-Bridges; before it, on the River, is their Ship-Yard, a very large one, several new Ships on the Stocks, some of a thousand Tuns, all their own; whereas the En­glish East-India Company hire Ships for their Service: The Dutch Company is vastly rich here, and strong in the Indies, where, they say, they are not only Lords of Land of great extent, and of many considera­ble Islands, but are able to bring to Sea in those Parts a Fleet of forty good Ships of War; and on Land, an Army of as many [Page 155]thousand Men: They are really very great and formidable in those Parts, having got all to themselves; they have rook'd and worm'd out the Portuguese (the ancient Discoverers of, and Traders to these Parts) and the English, who have little or no­thing now to do in the East-Indies, and are like to have less, as they manage Matters. The Dutch East-India Company has a Sovereign Power and great Privileges granted them by the States-General, are very Politick in their Conduct, and Diligent in their Application, and aim not at the making themselves and Families, but the Company Great; look to Futurity, and consider the Consequences of Things; they have translated the Bible and Testament in the [Page 156] Indian Language, and pretend to be good Christians, by endea­vouring to plant and cultivate the Gospel among the Indians, (their conquer'd Vassals,) but prove themselves very indif­ferent (indeed not good Mora­lists) in their Negotiations with the English East-India Compa­ny, and in their Treatises with the Indian Princes, which they keep, or break, (French-King like,) (complain'd of, tho' co­pied after) as suits most with their Interest and Advantage.

They have a mighty Country in extent in India, and have built a great and beautiful City, and call'd it Batavia, have for­tified it like Amsterdam. At that Place resides the General of the Indies, their chief Officer, who has Guards of Horse and [Page 157]Foot, Court and State-Officers, Privy-Councellors, &c. Power to conclude Peace, or denounce War, and looks much like (tho' he be not) a Sovereign Prince. They are possest of Bantam, and other Parts of the Island of Ja­va, are considerable in the Mo­lucca Islands, and those of Ban­da, Sumatra, and have Factories on the Coasts of Bengal, Mala­bar, and Cormandel, and in the Dominions of the Mogul, and Galcanda, have great Commerce in Persia, China, and Japan, and have routed the King from the Island of Zeylan, and are abso­lute Masters of that rich Coun­try, while he, poor Gentleman, grazes it on the Mountains: Thus they usually treat the In­dian Princes, who first permit them to Trade with them [Page 158](which indeed is their own In­terest) then they establish Facto­ries, build Forts, (which is weak­ly done of those Princes to let them,) and then bring Ships of War, and a good Army, and drive away the right Owners, and take Possession for them­selves, tho' they would be loth the most Christian King should serve them (not much better Christians than his Majesty) so here in Europe, tho' he might and would have done it, if the English had not stuck close to them; for which surely they'll be very Civil to them in the In­dies, tho' I don't know when, yet I hope no more Amboyna Businesses, which, I know, the Dutch don't love to hear of; tho' 'tis an old Story, yet 'tis a very true one, and, I think, [Page 159]one of the Cruelest that was ever heard of.

We took a view of both the Houses belonging to the Dutch East-India Company in Amster­dam; one is the old, t'other the new Part of the City: Here they keep their General Courts of Sales, and Committees meet to dispatch their Affairs; there are abundance of Chambers and Offices, in one are the Trophies which they have gain'd from the Indian Princes whom they have vanquish'd. We were led into a Room, and gratified with the sight of abundance of Am­ber greece, Musk, Tea, and other rich Drugs; and into another where were great quantities of Cinamon, Mace, Cloves, and Nutmegs, brought from their Magazines, and making here fit [Page 160]for Sale, by sorting, as also min­cing of them: Abundance of other Rooms and Appartments we saw, too many and too long to particularize. It shall suffice that we present you with a ve­ry fine and remarkable Story, told us just as we were taking leave, and standing under the Gate. A Private Centinel that carried a Musket, and went hence in the Companies Service to Battavia, having signaliz'd himself by his Bravery in many Actions, was advanc'd to the Se­cond Command in those Parts, had Guards, a large Retinue, and liv'd wondrous Great, flou­rish'd for a time, but in the space of a few Years was reduced to extream Poverty, and became a very Sot; being uneasie in In­dia, he return'd to Amsterdam, [Page 161]and having spun out some time, and could get no Employment, once more took a Musket on his Shoulder, and went away for Battavia to try his Fortune a se­cond time, (which seldom fa­vours the Aged, but usually is lavish of her Graces to the Youth­ful and the Gay;) but what be­came of this Gentleman in this Second Adventure, we were not inform'd; but by this Story we took notice of the great Incer­tainty and Mutability of all Sub­lunary Things.

We were several times on the Amsterdam Exchange, which is much crowded, and which a­bounds with Business, and great Merchants, (many of which, by great Losses, have gone off this War,) who correspond to and with all Parts of the discover'd [Page 162]World: This Building is oblong, of Brick and Stone, far short in Beauty and Magnificence of the Royal-Exchange at London, (tho' as capacious,) being an old Pile; has no Shops round about it a­bove, as ours, nor about it be­low, only some few inconsidera­ble Toy-shops at one end above Stairs. The Merchants here take great freedom of talking of and censuring all the Actions of all the Sovereign Princes in the World, and observe no decorum in their Expressions, for which they are much to blame, as we told some of our Acquaintance, who thereupon furnish'd us with an agreeable and remarkable Story of a Dutch Merchant, who on this Exchange talk'd very freely of one of the lesser (tho' Sovereign) Princes of Germany, [Page 163]and speaking meanly and con­temptible of him, (his Envoy in­cognito being present, took no­tice of it, ask'd his Name pri­vately, and set it down in his Pocket-Book,) it hapned not long after, this very Negotiator had Business in that very Prince's Country, and being curious to see the Court, was met there by the Envoy who heard his foul Language against his Master on the Amsterdam-Exchange, and who knew him again, who de­manding his Name, found 'twas the same Man, and ask'd him if he remember'd such Words; which he endeavour'd to evade, but the Time, Place and Com­pany being told, he was mute; the Envoy told him 'twas now in his Power to ruin him, but he would not do it, but dismiss'd [Page 164]him with this Advice; Hence­forth Commonwealths Man (said he) have a Care how you treat So­vereign Princes, for the unmanner­ly Freedom you take at home, might have cost you your Life abroad. Nay, to our knowledge, upon that Exchange, a sawcy Rascal (a Broker) had the Impudence to wish all the Princes in the World in their Rasphouse, or Bridewell; such Liberty of Speech do these wanton Republicans take, and are fond of their Chains, viz. their heavy Taxes and Impositions, their Servitude being prodigious, having no­thing but the name of Freedom. The same irreverent and inde­cent Discourse they have in their Coffee-Houses, which is for want of good Sense and good Man­ners; for in all the Conversati­on [Page 165]which we had (and which was a great deal, and with the principal Magistrates and States, and Top Traders, who are mere Merchants) both in Private and Publick Houses, and in our Pas­sages from Place to Place, we met with very few refin'd Heads, (except amongst the States, who are for the most part very prudent, sober, and ci­vil Men, of stanch Reputation and great Integrity, of good Fa­milies, and not rais'd from Pick­led Herrings and Butter-Boxes, as reported by some untravell'd Sparks,) but two at Amsterdam, viz. a Poet and a Civilian, who were indeed very witty Men and extraordinary Company, we were often with them, they spoke French fluently, which is very common here, and, we think, [Page 166]more universal than Latin. Milk-Coffee with Nutmeg, and Coffee with Liquorish infus'd, are much drank by the Dutch in those Houses.

The Government of this Re­nown'd City is excellent, the Magistrates wholly attend their Office, and look carefully after the due execution of their Laws, which are the Life and Soul of the Commonwealth: The Ex­cise, which is here general, would be an insupportable Grievance, and cause daily Complaints, but that it is fairly establish'd, and faithfully collected. Here is a Senate of thirty six States men, who continue in that Employ­ment during life, by a Privilege the Citizens have quitted, who in former Times elected them annually; but when their City [Page 167]grew vast, the number of Ele­ctors encreas'd and often fell in­to Tumult; which to prevent they have establish'd that great Council, who fill up their own Vacancies themselves, and chuse the Burgo-Masters, and Esche­vins, (Lord-Mayors and Alder­men) who are the Chief Magi­strates; of the first there are four, one presides, and serves two Years, the other three are annually elected: These great Officers represent the Sovereign­ty of the City, and dispose of all the Offices in the Civil Govern­ment, keep the Bank, and the Keys of that and the City Gates, make all Issues and Payments, have the whole Power, and are the sole Judges of what is for the Honour, Safety, and Interest of this Body Politick; they re­ceive [Page 168]and entertain Foreign Princes and Ambassadors, and perform all the Publick Cere­monies.

There are nine Eschevins; of which seven are annually elected, the Senate chuses fourteen, and the Stadtholder (King William) approves of and confirms seven. They are Judges in all Causes Civil and Criminal, and are Men of great Integrity, of a clear and unspotted Reputation; their Pensions are small, and their Port, Equipage and Retinue ac­cordingly; they think it a suf­ficient Honour (as well as their Duty) to serve their Country: The Burgo-Masters and Esche­vins have it in their Power to make their Families, by getting their Sons, Nephews and Friends into Honourable and Profitable [Page 169]Employments. The Schout is a great Officer, like our Sheriff, seizes Criminals, and secures them, and preserves the Peace of the City. The Pensioner is like our Recorder, being Learn'd in the Civil Law, who informs the Senate, Burgo-Masters, and Es­chevins what are the Laws and Customs of the Country, and makes all the Publich Speeches. Treasurers and Under-Officers there are in great number, too tedious to mention. The Go­vernment of the several Cities of the Seven Provinces is (in a manner) the same.

Then we went to Visit their Alms-Houses, which are nume­rous, and well fill'd, giving Lodging and Diet to above twenty thousand Poor: Thus much may be said, in pure ju­stice, [Page 170]That the Dutch Charity is very great and extensive, they are very liberal, they give of­ten, tho' it be but a little at a time; their Collections in their Churches are frequent, and hand­somly manag'd to prevent Re­flections, so gathering the Alms, that one knows not what the t'o­ther gives; the Velvet Purse or Bag which is handed about be­ing deep and not wide; and to put them in mind to prepare their Coin, a little Bell is fixt to the Stick, to which the Purse is fasten'd, and which they send from one to another, through every Pew; Children and Ser­vants always give something. These Charity-Houses are spaci­ous, noble, large, and well con­triv'd; we prais'd their Build­ing and Conveniences, and told [Page 171]them, it was our Opinion, Houses of that kind should be rather Commodious (as theirs) than Magnificent, which was fittest for the Palaces of Princes, and not the Hospitals of the Poor. They have made Provision for the old Men and Women toge­ther, and separately and for Wi­dows by themselves, then for Children of both Sexes, who are numerous, and neatly dress'd, in party-colour'd Cloth, their up­per Garment half red, half sad­colour; more especial Care is taken of Citizens Children; tho' Foundlings, or the Issue of Strangers, are not excluded this Benefit of their Charity.

We saw their Bedlam, a very neat old Building, tho' far short of that in Moorfields, but rich in Stock, and indeed not so [Page 172]full of mad Folks, as the En­glish.

Here they have a Fool-House, no where else to be found in the World, not but that there may be as many of that sort of tame Creatures in other Countries; and this may be said, That how many soever there are without, there are very few within these Doors: 'Tis a small old Build­ing, where there is good Lodg­ing and Diet provided for these unhappy People; amongst them there was a Woman that had the least Head we ever saw, be­ing much less than the natural Proportion.

Hence we went to the Ho­spital for Boies and Girls, whose Fathers were Members of the Establish'd or National Church: 'tis a good well-built square [Page 173]Piece, where the Children (while little) are kept close to School, then put out Apprentices to Han­dicraft-Trades: Here is an Apo­thecaries, and Shoe-makers Shop, wholly for the Service of this House.

Hence to the Spin-House, the Prison for Whores and Thieves, all were at work, some making Lace, others Plain-work, some Spinning, others mending Lin­nen; some in for Weeks, others Months, and Years, according to their Demerits.

Then to the Rasp-House, which is a Bridewell, where are secur'd those who have been near hang­ing, and have escap'd with burn­ing between the Shoulders with three Crosses, the Arms of Am­sterdam; sometimes with a red­hot Sword on their Back, to [Page 174]shew how narrowly they say'd their Heads, and to caution 'em to beware of the next Punish­ment; here, after a severe Whip­ping, they are doom'd to a tem­porary Imprisonment, from three to five, seven, nine, eleven, and thirty Years, some to perpetual; all to bodily Labour, to Rasp (which is to cut with a double-teeth'd Saw) fifty Pounds of Bra­zil (a hard Wood for the Dyers use) every Day, or be drubb'd lustily with a Bulls Pissel, and if that won't do, they are put into a Dungeon, and fed with Bread and Water; or else into a close dark Vault, into which Water is let, which if they don't empty by pumping, will soon drown 'em, which soon brings 'em to work. The Profits of their La­bour are for their Maintenance, [Page 175]and the Overplus to the Stock of the House, or to be dispos'd of by the States for the Publick Good.

Here are also Houses for Va­gabonds, or wandering Beggars, common Gamesters, Sharpers, Sots and idle Folks, who are kept in this Place at hard work.

Then to the Gaasthouse, where Entertainment is given (at the Publick Charge) to all needy Foreigners, of any Nation, four Days, and as many Nights; in which time they must find out their Friends, or get Work to maintain themselves, or else they shall have Work provided for them by the Officers, which few like, but had rather chuse their own.

Upon the Justice-day (as they call the Execution here, which is [Page 176]usually Saturday) we saw a Man strangled, which differs but lit­tle, and that in the Word only, from Hanging; it is upon a Scaffold fix'd against the Stadt­house; the Criminal is brought through Solomon's Hall, where his Sentence is read, as also on the Stage, then the Parson prays with him, and he by himself, then mounts a little Cricket, and claps his Back to a Post set up on purpose, through which there's a Hole, into which the latter is put, and so twisted hard about his Neck, the Stool kick'd down, and the Hangman all the while holding his Nose, and stop­ping his Breath, the sooner to put him out of Pain.

Another was beheaded with a broad Sword, which the Execu­tioner keeps under his Cloak till [Page 177]the Criminal is ready on his Knees, and the Cap over his Eyes, then off goes the Cloak, the Headsman approaches, pre­tending to pull the Cap a little more over his Eyes, in half a Minute whips off his Head, and very cleaverly. Haerlem fur­nishes Amsterdam with the Execu­tioner; which tho' the biggest and richest City in all the Seven (as well as this) Provinces, yet has not the Privilege to have a Hangman of her own. He is a spruce Fellow, and goes well in Habit, and has Servants to at­tend him, and is usually by Pro­fession a Surgeon, and Bone-set­ter, as well as Bone-Cutter, has a good Sallary from the Towns where he serves, and lives com­fortably, tho' very few are found of his Company, it being thought [Page 178]the worst in the World, espe­cially if he has a Parson with him.

At the same time was a lusty sturdy Fellow whipt for some lesser Roguery, or Cheating, which was done while the t'o­ther Fellow was hanging; and after this manner, he was brought on the Scaffold with his Crime on his Breast in Capital Letters, and led about, then stript to the Waist, his Hands tied, and drawn up tight with a Cord to a Post, then the Hangman took up a good handful of large Birch (like that of Ostlers Brooms) from a great Bundle which lay close by, and slash'd him as fast as he could, backwards and for­wards, then took up a fresh hand­ful, and so on for six or seven Minutes; at which time the Ma­gistrates [Page 179](who look on out of the Stadthouse Windows) nodded to him to give over. Vast was the number of Spectators, (as always is both there and every where else at such unpleasant Sights) beyond what we ever saw, and most Mob; or Jean Hagel, as they call 'em; or John Hail, or Canalia, or Canals, Sinks of Filth, &c.

Here are also proper Houses to receive, detain, and chastise Extravagants, Deboshees, and re­probate, wicked, and lewd Chil­dren; of which having spoken pretty largely in the Account of the Hague, we shall say no more here, but refer our Reader thi­ther for full Satisfaction.

All these Charity Houses, as also those of Correction and Re­formation, are neat and spruce, [Page 180]furnish'd with Pictures (which are so common in this Country, that Butchers, Coblers, and the meanest People, have a great ma­ny, and of the sort pretty good) and well set out.

In some of these Alms-Houses there are fourteen or fifteen hundred, in others eight or nine hundred, and in the rest four or five hundred Boys and Girls: Here also may any Body, Man or Woman, Native or Stranger, have a handsome Maintenance for their Lives, in a House pro­vided on purpose, call'd the Bro­ther's House, paying only a small Summ of Money at first. The Charity of this renown'd City is very great, even beyond Ex­ample, and above Comparison, they are continually giving to the Poor, hardly a Bargain made [Page 181]here, but they come in for a Snack, the Gods Penny is theirs.

We took a walk in the After­noon out of the City-Gates, to observe the Situation and the Country round about. We saw Mills innumerable, all in motion, some Water, some Wind, some Thatch, some Wood, (few Brick) to grind Colours for the Pot-Houses, Corn for this City, saw­ing Timber, draining Marsh-Grounds, &c. Here the Land lies low, and the Water high, dam'd up for the Publick Ser­vice, and conveniency of Tra­vel. The Air is thick, foul, and unwholsom; we fortified our selves with a good Dose of old Hock every Day we liv'd, as the better sort of Dutch do, and the common with a Cup of Nantz.

We arrived to the Dooly-House, a noted Tavern, where many of the Train'd-Band Officers are ve­ry well drawn in good Paint, in a great drinking Rome, the Wine is generally good at their Pub­lick Houses, but the best was at the Heer-Logiment, but then the Price is higher: This is a noble House, fit to receive and lodge a Prince, as it often does the lesser Potentates of Germany, who fre­quently travel thither, especially in their Minority, when they ne­ver fail to make the Tour of these Provinces; which well me­rit their Time and Expence, in­forming their Judgments, as well as gratifying their Curiosities: The Accounts and Descriptions of Places and Things, well made, being indeed very delightful to read, but much more to view; [Page 183]the Eye being in matters of that kind, much to be prefer'd to the Ear: The mighty Figure this Republick has, and still does make in the World, her Wealth, Power, and Reputation, both at home and abroad; her Nume­rous Armies, Formidable Navies, and Foreign Alliances, are all well worth seeing and know­ing.

'Tis very observable here, more Women are found in the Shops and Business in general than Men; they have the Conduct of the Purse and Commerce, and manage it rarely well, they are Careful and Diligent, capable of Affairs, (besides Domestick) ha­ving an Education suitable, and a Genius wholly adapted to it. The Men take all the Pleasure, they go to Coffee-Houses, Ta­verns [Page 184]and Treats, walk or ride in Chases abroad, play much at Cards, sit up Gaming and Fud­ling greatest part of Night; and all is well, the good Wife gets and the Husband spends the Money; but this Compensation the Woman has for all her Toil and Care, That at her Death (if she drops before her Husband) she can give away half the E­state. The Women of these Parts are all for making their Daughters and Nieces, or Grand-Children great Fortunes; they let the Boys shift for themselves, they say they can best do it.

We met abundance of French in this Place, both Ministers and others, (most of the Reform'd Religion) the Dutch are very ge­nerous to them in their Alms for their Support; here are ma­ny [Page 185]Thousands, ten for one in England or Ireland. This Re­mark we made (not once but often,) when we or any others, occasionally spoke against the French King, they seem'd con­cern'd, tho' he has so bitterly persecuted them; and, as we were inform'd by those who knew it well, they us'd to rejoyce at his former Successes in Flanders, Pied­mont, and Catalina, and say up­on all Occasions, Nôtre Grand Monarque est invincible, which Note now is chang'd; the Dutch were offended at their Vanity and Weakness, because from them they receiv'd their Bread.

We went to the Butter, Cheese, Poultry, and Dog-Market; the three first were well-stor'd, but the last (which is every Monday Morning) had but about twen­ty [Page 186]Curs in it, and those very ug­ly, but every Woman must have one, the ordinary as well as ex­traordinary, and good round Prizes they, for these hairy Com­panions.

Thence to the Market for green and dried Herbs, Seeds of all sorts, and Roots for Apothe­caries; another of very fine Flowers in Pots, in great quan­tities. Here is a Rag-market, and another for Tobacco, Pipes, of which they have very fine ones, curiously glaz'd and wrought, and great variety of Sorts and Prizes, for Sea and Land, short ones with large Bowls for the Skippers and Tarpaulins, who keep them on board their Ves­sels, and sell them to the Pas­sengers. Markets of Baskets, Chairs, Tubs, and Pails, all very [Page 187]pretty; Grain, Bisket, Cakes, Eggs, &c. Two large Flesh-Markets or Halls, being in hand­some Houses, great store of Flesh in both, and very good, in­differently cheap, and would be very reasonable but for the great and lasting Excise; the Butchers and their Wives are neatly dres­sed, and cleanlier than ours: Here is also a Sawcidge, Hogs­face and Tripe-Market; they sell in their Cheesemongers Shops Bologna Sawcidges, and dried Salmon, both which they dress well, boiling in part, then fry­ing the first, and eating it with Spinage, over which they scrape Nutmeg.

We hired a Yacht again, and sailed for several Hours up and down the River to divert our selves: Upon a small Island o­veragainst [Page 188]the City is their stand­ing Gallows, (the Scaffold I mention'd before being set up only at particular times,) all of Free-Stone, Triangular Pillars, with Iron cross them, with carv'd Work (a Lion) at the top of each; they first hang or strangle the Criminals on the foresaid Scaffold erected close to the Stadthouse, and those sen­tenced to hang in Iron are brought hither. The Wheel, or Cross is seldom us'd here, (tho' often in France.) The Scotch Man that many Years ago attempted to burn their Fleet of Men of War, is here laid upon a Wheel set upon a high Post. Also a French Man that kill'd a Whore, who being bid by the Parson to pray for the City and Magi­strates, said, The Devil take 'em [Page 189]all; and one or two more hang­ing in Chains, (as we in England call it.)

We had the Curiosity to go to see the Navy or Admiralty Office, which is a well-built House, with good large Rooms, well painted, and fitly accommo­dated to the Business; they have a Court of Justice within them­selves, from which is no Appeal; they hang or shoot their Sea-Of­ficers, or Men for Cowardize, or neglect of Duty, and reward them roundly if they burn, sink, or take a Flag-Ship, or any Ship of War, great, or small, or do any considerable Service; they give them ready Money and Pen­sions when disabled; great Care is taken of their Sea-men, their Wages punctually and justly paid, and their Widows and Chil­dren [Page 190]consider'd, and themselves largely provided for in Hospi­tals, &c. In this House are se­veral Trophies hung up, taken from the several Enemies of this State.

We hir'd each a Chaise (which is a small Chariot on two Wheels drawn by one Horse, which runs very swift, the Roads being san­dy and generally good, can tra­vel sixty Miles a day,) and each got a Companion, and went to NAERDEN, Naerden. the Frontier of the Province of Holland, about ten Miles from Amsterdam; in our way we past through Muy­den, a small City, which has no Vote among the States, because neither they, nor Wesep, another small City, nor Naerden sent any Deputies to the Hague, when the Foundation of the Union was [Page 191]laid. This Town of Naerden was almost destroy'd by Fire in the Fourteenth Century, and the re­mainder of it drown'd by the Sea soon after; but Anno 1455 it was re-built by William the Third of Bavaia, then Earl of Holland. The Citizens of Ʋtrecht made themselves Masters of it in the Year 1481, by a pretty Stra­tagem, putting their Soldiers in the Habit of Country Women; who entring the Place on the Market-Day, easily took it; but the Inhabitants soon recover'd it, and put them all to the Sword. Anno 1486 this Place was re­duced to Ashes, and soon re-built; but it met with a severer Fate (at least in the Persons of the Burghers) from Frederick de To­ledo, Duke D'Alva, who came be­fore it with a Body of an Army; [Page 192]upon which some of the Citi­zens open'd their Gates to let him in; notwithstanding which, he fell upon the Inhabitants and bar­barously murder'd them.

It is now a modern Regular Fortification, and made prodigi­ously strong, capable of recei­ving a Garison of eight or ten thousand Men; it was begun Anno 1677, and perfected since the beginning of this War; it cost above three (or rather six) hundred thousand Pounds Ster­ling. Here are six Bulwarks, four Ravelins, two Half-Moons, two Gates, and double Ditches, deep, with strong Counterscarps.

The Town is but small and ordinary; but this is the Frontier and principal Security of the whole Province, which is not the richest only of the Seven, [Page 193]but of the Seventeen. In the Year 1672 the French with Ease and by Treachery took it; but the Prince of Orange (now King of England) re-took it in eight Days time, there being then no Fortification, but what the French had thrown up while they pos­sess'd it. The States depending upon their Armies in the Field, took the less Care of this Place, now they have made it very for­midable.

Here is a small Woollen Ma­nufacture; good Beer brew'd, fine, and but little inferior to the English in pleasantness of taste.

We rid round about the Coun­try, which is Downy, almost like Epsom, the Air pretty wholsom, and pleasant: We were at a Country-House of the late Ad­miral [Page 194] Trump's, a pretty Box, fine Gardens, Walks, and Rows of Trees, with a good Moat about it. We past by another of his Houses, which the French burnt in the former War, Anno 1673 or 1674, much bigger than t'o­ther.

In our return we past through Wesep, a small and inconsiderable City, where they brew good Beer.

The Weather being pleasant we made another Sally from Am­sterdam, and visited Ʋtrecht, twen­ty seven Miles off; we past by Overkirk, a small Village, which gives Title to a Lord, a Favourite, and possess'd of the Revenues hereof. We went through Op­cow, another small Village, four Miles further; near which Place are the Ruines of an old Castle. [Page 195]Then we came to Liona, a great Town, seven Miles off: Thence to New Sluice, where we din'd upon roasted Eels, which is very good Victuals, and well dress'd here, and is always ready at set times for Travellers. A Mile and half further is Brutil, a small Vil­lage, where young De Rutter has a House. We past Maersem and Soulandt, two small Places; and about three in the Afternoon we arriv'd at Ʋtrecht, a great, po­pulous, but weak City, Capital of the Province of that Name, one of the Seven United, former­ly and Archbishoprick, in the Circle of Westphalia, and Imperi­al, but now subject to the States: It is seated on a Branch of the Rhine, in a very convenient and fruitful Place.

We walk'd about the Walls, which are pretty high, and of Brick, but weak, and out of re­pair, surrounded with a deep, and broad Ditch; we past one of the Gates, and were ferried over to see the Pall-Mall, which is kept very neatly, shaded with se­veral Rows of Trees on each side, preserv'd by the present French King's immediate Command, who was there with his Army An. 1673, when he took this City without any Resistance. Here is an University (erected by the States, Anno 1636,) but not so full as that at Leyden; tho' this, in our Opinion, is a pleasanter Place, having better Air, and a finer Country about it, for we almost phansied our selves in En­gland, this being like some of our old Cities: Here many of the [Page 197]Nobility and Gentry live, be­cause of the pleasantness of the Place, being as it were a Retire­ment from the noise and hurry of Business and Bustle, constant in great, trading, populous Places. The better sort of People here affect the French Mode, and, in some measure, their way of li­ving; whereas the Dutch, in most other Parts, are fixt to their Fa­shion, as the Spaniards, never changing it.

We had the Curiosity to turn over the Manuscripts lately found out, and now deposited in the Clerks House, (adjoyning to the English Church) where, be­sides many very ancient Bibles, and other curious Books fairly written, flourish'd, and adorn'd with Golden Letters, we saw five Unicorn's Horns, (as they [Page 198]call'd 'em,) three long and thick, two small and slender, like those we have elsewhere seen (said to be such too.) Here are two small brasen Images, suppos'd to be Heathen Gods, and by them wor­shipp'd.

On Sunday (in most decent manner) we went to the English Church, which is a good old Piece of Building; the Chancel is let for a Joyners Shop, so little do they value what was once consecrated (because after the Popish manner) to God; the Congregation was small, between one and two hundred, zealous Parson and People, no English Liturgy read here, all Presbyteri­ans; we view'd the Dutch Ca­thedral Church, it was once so, tho' not now; 'tis very capaci­ous, built Abby manner, and af­ter [Page 199]the old Fashion, half of it fell in some years since, is not repair'd, because the People are poor; here is a very lofty old Steeple, which we ascended, and whence we took a view of this good, great, old City, and of several Churches and old Buildings, for­merly Monasteries and Nunne­ries. In the chief is Van Ghent's Monument, not so splendid as elsewhere; he was De Rutter's Vice-Admiral, and slain by the English in the Naval Engage­ment Anno 1672; he was of a noble Family of the Province of Guelderland (which is contigu­ous to this,) and Colonel of a Marine Regiment, train'd up to the Sea Service, and ready at all times for that, as also the Land Service, and in a scarcity of Sea-men, of great Use to sup­ply [Page 200]that Defect, being Amphi­bious.

The Streets are broad and clean, and the Stadthouse a small neat old Building, with a fair Piazza, or Market-Place. They take great Liberty here on Sun­days, playing at Tables, Dice, and other Games with Cowries (or Blackmoors Teeth, as the Chil­dren call 'em) at the Coffee-Houses and Taverns, and have Musick in the Publick-Houses; the same is indeed practis'd at the Hague and Amsterdam; tho' in other Places they are a little more strict, particularly in Zea­land; but they live very loosly in the Provinces of Holland and Ʋtrecht, buy and sell frequent­ly on this Day, and especially Provisions; which is the more reasonable, because of Travel­lers [Page 201]passing and re-passing, and they must not starve on this, tho' the Lord's-Day.

The next Day we hir'd a Wag­gon to carry us to Soestdike, nine Miles from Ʋtrecht; 'tis oue of King William's Hunting-Houses, formerly much frequen­ted by him, there being abun­dance of Game about it, especi­ally Pheasant and Partridge; it is a very pretty Box, and lately (that is some Years since) built, excellent Painting of Game, of all kinds, on the Walls and Cie­lings; the Lodgings are small, but neat; good Gardens, curi­ously planted and made up; a Park of six English Miles about, five hundred Head of Deer; a pretty Engine or Mill, about three hundred Yards from the House, which conveys Water [Page 202]through leaden Pipes under Ground to serve all the Offices in the House; very fine Walks, and rows of Trees about it, which renders it indeed very pleasant. Having sufficiently diverted our selves here with the Pleasures suitable to the Season, we went back to Amsterdam, whence the next day we took a Boat with Sails and crost the Riyer Y to Buyck sloot, a village about a League off, and went thence by Water in another Boat drawn with a Horse, to Promerent, a small old City, two Leagues further, which has a Vote amongst the States, and is very rich in her Finances. Here we hir'd two Chaises for two Days, and gave two Rix-dollers for each; we past through the Beemster, Land so call'd, which [Page 203]the Sea formerly broke into, but was soon mill'd out: 'Tis very fat Pasture, feeding yearly abun­dance of Cattel of several sorts, which are brought from Fries­land, Norway, Denmark, and o­ther Places lean, and here fat­ten'd. Many Country Gentle­men have fine Country Houses, all round about, adorn'd with pleasant rows of Trees, and beau­tified with Paintings. We din'd at Schermerhoorn (a small Vil­lage) on Fish, because we could have nothing else, nor indeed can we in any of the small Towns through which we tra­vell'd; but this amends they make us, they are very new, be­cause always alive; nay, the common People (love their Bel­lies so well) they'ell not buy any Fish if they but only languish, [Page 204]much less be dead: At this Place we had a mind to have a lit­tle Butter melted thick for Sawce, after the English man­ner, which with much entreaty, and many good words, (the only way to work upon those rough, clownish People) we were pro­mis'd, and in part had, for it was thick enough indeed, almost like hasty Pudding, for they had put abundance of Flower in, with­out which they can't (that is, they won't) melt but boil But­ter to Oil; they say, 'tis then best, being thinnest, and goes farthest; they are, as I said be­fore, generally choice Cooks, but then 'tis only for their own Country Folks.

Five or six Miles from this Place lies ALKMAER, Alkmaer. which is one of the neatest, and plea­santest, [Page 205](tho') oldest Cities in all the Low-Countries, being built in the Year 1550; 'tis very clean, and handsomly pav'd; we rid through part of it, without stop­ping longer than to take a Glass of old Hock, and away we went to Egmont aside Hoef, three Miles off, a sweet little Village; there stands an old ruin'd Castle: Thence to Egmont by the Sea­side, about a Mile further, a small Village of Fishermen, whose Wives and Children were ma­king Nets for their Husbands Service, who were then at the Salt Water getting Bread for them; so nothing is idle here: Thence through another Village call'd by the same Name, a Mile distant, it lies along the Sand Downs; here's a pretty Church, two Steeples, and the Ruines of [Page 206]an old Fort or Castle; the Counts of Egmont (fam'd in Story) are Lords of the Lands and Reve­nues all round about; we diver­ted our selves with driving to and fro, and viewing the main Sea, and then return'd, and supp'd, and lay that Night at Alkmaer, and the next Day took an exact and particular view of this flourishing City. It was for­merly burnt and plunder'd by the Frieslanders, and Guelder­landers, but soon re built by the Inhabitants, and fortified after the manner of that Age, but better by William the First, Prince of Orange, who commanded some new and strong Works to be added to it, which prov'd of manifest Advantage to them in the Sige which the Spaniards laid to it, Anno 1573, under the Duke [Page 207] D'Alva, after he had taken Haer­lem, but they were forced to rise from before Alkmaer with Shame and Loss. It is the Capital Ci­ty of the North Parts of Hol­land, and sends Deputies to the Hague, and has a Session in the Admiralty, and a Stock in the East-India Company, and a great Manufactory in Linnen-Cloth; the Country round about is ve­ry Fruitful, and yields abundance of good Corn, Butter, and Cheese; of which last they have here a very fine Market, and the greatest variety of sorts we ever saw, some made with Anni-Seeds, some of Commin-Seeds, other of Sheeps-Milk discolour'd with green, all very indifferently ta­sted; and (in our Opinion) the very best was far short of our Chedder, or Cheshire; we had al­so [Page 208]Parmesan-Cheese about four­teen Pence English Money per Pound, which indeed is firm and well tasted, but not so mellow and delicious as ours, (at least in our Thoughts, nor are we partial.)

We view'd their great Church, which is of curious Architecture, and one of the finest in these Provinces; 'tis neatly Wainscot­ted, and well kept; has a very fine, large, well-painted Organ, which plaies every Day from ele­ven till twelve, and makes excel­lent Musick. And we saw their Stadthouse, which is a neat old plain Building, and stands in a fine, broad, cleanly, and well-pav'd Street. Their Fish-Market is well stor'd with great plenty of Perch, Carp, Eeels, Popes, Bleaks very large, and Jacks, [Page 209](but a few) all alive, and very cheap.

So having seen all that was Rare and Curious, we mounted, and return'd to Amsterdam, where we spent two or three Days in finishing our Observations, and in buying some Toies, and fine Things (of which they have abundance) to present our Friends at our Return, we left this renown'd City, and pass'd through Haerlem and the Hague once more, and so to Rotterdam, where we staid two or three Days more; and thence went by Wa­ter to Dort, a beautiful, strong and rich City in this Province, fam'd for the Synod held here about Religious Matters, Anno 1618. to determine the Contro­versies between the Gomarists or [Page 210] Contra-Remonstrants, and the Re­monstrants or Arminians, about Predestination, which then made a mighty Noise in the World. It stands on an Island, at the Mouth of the River Maese, and between three others, viz. Merwe, Rhine, and Linghe, ten Miles South-East of Rotterdam; is the first that Votes in the States of Holland; 'tis well built, and ve­ry neat; had once the sole Right of Coinage, but now other Places in these Provinces have got the like Privilege; the Sea frequently breaks in upon it, but more formerly, and drown'd above ten thousand Persons, and laid twelve Villages under Wa­ter, and once seventy Villages and one hundred thousand Peo­ple.

The Earls of Holland in anci­ent Times kept their Courts there; it was also formerly the Staple Town for Merchandises Exported, but has now only the Staple of Rhenish Wines, with which they drive a great Trade, and brew abominably, mixing French White Wine, and other cheap, and ordinary, thin, lean, and hungry Wines with that noble Juice, that it has in a man­ner lost the very natural taste, and is indeed poor insipid stuff; however, we met with good old Hock here, because we were willing to pay the highest Price. Formerly the English bought abundance of this sorry Wine, but they are grown wiser, they now buy but little; the English Ladies for the most part now [Page 212]drinking Red Wines, where­as formerly they fansied that brew'd Dort Rhenish Wine most; however, there is yet à pretty good Trade with England for those Wines, which the Wine-Coopers put into rich Canary, which makes it pleasanter, and to them the cheaper, so they get the more Money by brew­ing it.

And here we embark'd for Zealand, being resolv'd to make the Tour of that Province, more particularly for the sake of those two Renown'd Cities, Midle­burg and Flushing: But before we leave the Province of Holland (where we yet are) it will be fit to recollect something (and very material) which we omit­ted, and had like to have for­got. [Page 213]Before we left Amsterdam we went to their Theatre or Play-House, which is but ordi­nary, the Stage Musick, Actors and Actresses, in their Persons, and Habits so, and indeed there was but one Thing well per­sonated, and that was admira­bly well done, and was this; An old Fellow, who often ap­pear'd on the Stage in the Per­son and Habit of a Serving-Man, and who was well known by both, and also by his Voice, for he answer'd to many Que­stions, was by ill Fate, or bad Conduct (call it which you please) led into a Capital Crime, and having forfeited his Life to the State; he was brought out to die, (a Gallows of the Coun­try form, with a small Brick­work [Page 214]almost Breast-high, to re­ceive the dead Body when cut down, was set upon the Stage) and being told, that he should have his Life, if he would mar­ry one of the Three Women (no contemprible ones) present on the Stage, he view'd 'em well, and said, he was oblig'd to them for their Love, and to the States for their Kindness; but Marri­age being (in his Opinion) worse than Hanging, he would rather un­dergo that Sentence. He made a short Prayer, went up the Lad­der, and was turn'd off; the young Women all the while on the Stage, seeing what past, and finding themselves neglected, were mov'd with Pity rather than Revenge, approached the hanging Man, and said, Tho' [Page 215]he was a sowre, ill-natur'd Fel­low, and would not ease us, of what has been troublesome to us many Years, (our Maiden-Heads,) yet we will put him out of Pain, as soon as we can; upon which they pluck'd his Legs hard, which dropt down, and his Hands and Arms which did so, as also did all the rest of the Man, his very Head and all falling through the Rope; which in less than a Minute was all put together again without a touch, and he appear'd on the Stage, and spoke to us all; nor could any Body discover how this Thing was done, which was the Rarity. The Comedy was call'd, Crispin the Physician, (which we always reckon'd ra­ther a Cobler, but any thing [Page 216]will make a Doctor there, their Prices are accordingly, for we have seen a top Doctor take from an eminent Merchant a Half-Crown Fee,) with a silly Farce, of Hatred and Envy, which pleas'd them better than the Play, (because they knew no bet­ter.) The Pit is about two Shil­lings English Money; the Gal­lery sixteen Pence; behind the Pit Six-pence; but there the Mob will stand, breaking in by force sometimes.

The Players are kept poor by the States, to whom they (and all the Rope-Dancers, Puppet-Players, Lotteries, and all other Shows and Games whatever) pay, (towards the Maintenance of indigent old People) a great part of their Profit; some said, [Page 217]these do pay Two thousand Pound per Annum; then no won­der they are so indifferenly clo­thed themselves.

We were carried to their na­sty common Bawdy-House, call'd the Long-Cellar, (we bid 'em put Sodom to it) presently ap­pear'd half a Dozen of plump Punks, ready to be employ'd, desirous to go into a Box by themselves; but we did not like this Kitchen-stuff, so we call'd for a Pint of White Wine, and gave it them, (not drinking a Drop our selves; for the Wine, and other Liquors in those fil­thy Houses, is always (like their Women) good for nothing. We had a little Liquorish Chat; they knew us to be English, and said they lik'd our Country-Men [Page 218]best of any in the World; but we paid six Stivers for our Wine, and so took our Leaves of these Ladies.

We were immediately con­ducted by a Friend to a House of Pleasure, something like; the Sign is, the Hoff van Holland, or the Court of Holland, and there were, in a Front-Room below stairs, a Knot of a dozen Wo­men, to be hir'd, but all em­ploy'd, some working, some playing at Cards, &c. We call'd for some Ale, which be­ing brought in Bottles, was some­thing like (tho' not so good as) our Cock-Ale; we paid six Sti­vers, (which is about a Pen­ny more than an English Six­pence,) and treated the Ladies, who were handsomer, and bet­ter [Page 219]dress'd than t'other; how­ever we had nothing more to say to 'em, than a little merry Tattle, so we paid, and mov'd off: These Women attend the Service of the Publick, and, when agreed with, will go where you please, and do with you what you please. These Things are con­niv'd at by the Magistrates, who say, 'tis unavoidably necessary, to prevent worse Things, Viola­tions, Rapes, &c. they abound­ing with Strangers, Travellers, and Mariners, long absent from Women. They have many of these Houses (as we were in­form'd) between forty and fif­ty, they generally go under the Name and Shadow of Musick-Houses, but we were content with seeing but two, taking [Page 220]their Words for the rest; nor did we hear any Musick there. This State makes an Advantage of these light Ladies, for each for her Admission must pay three Pence; by laying out of which she hopes to get more.

In Summer the principal Di­version here is, to keep (as some) or to hire (as most do) a Chaise, and take their Mi­stresses (often) or Wives (some­times) abroad into the Coun­try, and give them the Air, and a handsome Treat, returning home for the most part in the Evening. We have seen three or fourscore of these Chaises, or small Chariots abroad at one time, and together, tho' almost all of different Company.

In Winter the Ladies or bet­ter sort of Women are, when the Frost is hard, and the Streets slippery with hardned Snow, (which is often) taken abroad by their Gallants (often) or Husbands, (seldom except when first married) in Polish Sleads or Sledges, richly Guilt and Car­ved, cover'd with Embroidery of Gold, or Silver, or rich Silk, or Tapestry, drawn by a fine Horse, richly Harness'd, with which they are very swiftly dri­ven from Street to Street, from one Burgal to another, for about two Hours, and then brought home; whence after a little Rest, and a dish of Tea, they are attended to the Play-House, and so home, and to Tea (not cold) again, and then to Cards, [Page 222]which they use much, and hold long, both before and after Sup­per, which they rarely fail of loving their Bellies as well as any People in the World, tho' they would be thought to do the contrary.

The ordinary sort of People divert themselves but little in the Summer, except in Walking, (chiefly out of the City in Sun­day's Afternoon,) and in Win­ter in Skating, which they do very much, and promiscuously, Boys and Girls, young Men and Maidens, and some few of the better Sort are sometimes seen on the Ice at that Sport.

The Merchandise in this Ci­ty, even the heaviest, viz. huge Fats of Rhenish Wine, is drawn on Sledges, very low, and con­sisting [Page 223]of two Pieces of Wood in length about ten ot twelve Feet, held together by two Pieces across, and cover'd with Iron at top; and on this they lay the Goods, having no great hea­vy lumbring Carrs, like ours; the Brewers also carry their Drink abroad thus; all having a little Tub of Water upon the Sledge, which they often spill on the Ground, to make it go the glibber: The Drivers of these, as also of their travelling Waggons, are (like our Car­men and Coach-men) often rude, and affront Folks; but then up­on Complaint to the Burgo-Masters, they shall be punish'd by Suspension, or otherwise, ve­ry severely.

They have no Coaches like our Hackneys, that ply in the Streets, but you may hire a Sledge, which is the Body of a Coach upon a Sledge without Wheels, and drawn by a Horse, the Coach is a handsom one, and the Horse a good one, and the Fellow in very good Ha­bit; and thus the better Sort are carried to Church, and to the Play-House, and to Visits; the Price reasonable: But then at the Hague, Amsterdam, and other Places, you may hire (as we did often) a handsome Coach on Wheels, and a Pair of good Horses, to carry you a­ny where out of Town.

The Dutch every where ob­serve a great Decency in their Funerals, all the Men follow­ing [Page 225]the Corpse (two by two, in handsome black Cloaks,) which are brought to the Church (up­on a forfeit of twenty-five Guil­ders the first, and fifty the se­cond half Hour, to be given to the Poor) at two, or thereabouts, the Doors being lock'd up at three. The dead Body must lie three Days in open view, to sa­tisfie the Relations that it was a natural Death; and in some Places (in these Provinces) when any Body dies, there is a Truss, or Bundle of Straw laid at the Door, where it continues till the Day of the Burial, and is great or small according to the Age, and Sex, there being a very large Bundle for a Man, less for a Woman, and much less for a Child.

The Dutch are the worst Nurses in the World, they can't make a little good common Broth, Gruel, or Caudle, are hard­hearted too, and careless of the Sick; if you can recover by strength of Nature, and a small help from your Doctor, so; if not, you may die, they are very indifferent in the matter.

In the Publick Houses we pay for Pipes, Candles, and e­very thing; the Excise is very high, and heavy, so that it can't be avoided; but then you are serv'd with very fine Pipes (which you may break if you please) and large, white, tall Candles, made of pure Tallow, but bad Wick, and so don't burn extraordinarily.

Amsterdam is in no fear of Fo­reign or External Force, they can, when they please, cut their Dykes, their Banks, and lay the Country under Water, and so prevent the Enemies ap­proach.

And now for the Province of ZEALAD, Zealand. to which we are under sail, and very near; land­ing about eight in the Morn­ing at Middleburg, the Capital Town in the Island of Walche­ren; it was formerly a very sorry Village, but now a noble, well-built, rich, and very strong City; 'tis but twenty five Miles North-East of Bruges in Flan­ders; it has a very great Trade in Times of Peace, especially with France for Wines, (chiefly White, of which here is the [Page 228]Staple) but now fits out almost a hundred Sail of Privaties, (by them call'd Capers) which extreamly annoy the French Coast-Trade, having done them more Harm than all their Ene­mies besides; they have some of forty and thirty Guns, which are sent into the West-Indies, and where they meet with rich Boo­ty, having abundance of French Ships (some of their Cargo's very valuable, especially those from Martinico) in their Har­bour, taken this War: While we were there, they brought in several good Prizes.

This Town has a good share in the East-India Company's Stock, and have a Chamber here, and Sales of Goods that come from thence; the Merchants [Page 229]coming from other Provinces to buy them. Here were former­ly some considerable English Merchants, but now none, there being but little Trade between them and us: There is an En­glish Church, about an hundred Auditors, all Presbyterians, and Dutch, from English and Scotch Parents.

Here is an Exchange, and but an indifferent one, and thin of Merchants. The Churches here are large, and handsomly built, the Houses also, but not so new and modish as at Amsterdam; the Place is moderately populous, Markets well stor'd with Fish, and Flesh, both reasonable: The People, both at Land and Sea, are not at all like the Hollanders, who are fat, swinging, swag­bellied [Page 230]Fellows, but these small, neat, tight, smart Lads, and the best Sea-men for Fighting and Privateering of all the Seven Pro­vinces; they are indeed true bred Sea-Rats; the Hollanders sail more in the Merchant Ser­vice, these in the States, and in Capers.

Here is a good handsome Stadthouse, an old Piece; the People here are more reserv'd, or rather more melancholick than in other Provinces; and the Magistrates are very severe in punishing lew'd Women, and Men, especially the first, which makes them very close and pri­vate in their Amorous Affairs: They are more loose, and greater Libertines in the Places whence we came, and drink more to [Page 231]excess, as well as dally with Wo­men.

We hir'd a Yacht and went on board some of their East-India Ships, a League below the Town, where we were very ci­villy receiv'd and entertain'd, (tho' Strangers) for all the Dutch are not such very Boors as re­ported; but they are a slow, heavy People (in Understand­ing, but not in Industry) and must not be hector'd and thun­der'd at, but mildly and gently handled; we won upon 'em wonderfully, giving them obli­ging Words, and using civil Actions, we melted them into Complaisance (which is not ve­ry natural to them) and by some happy and engaging Healths which we invented, and began, [Page 232]( viz. Prosperity to the State, to the Province, to the Company Trading to India, Union to the Allies, Victory to the Confede­rates, Downfal of France, Con­tinuation of Friendship in our own Private Society, &c.) toge­ther with the Wine, (of which they were liberal, even to an excess) we were soon all of a Piece, the best Friends in the World, nothing like us, happy mixture of English and Dutch. We took leave in time, and had Light enough just to observe the Ramekins, so fam'd in An­nals, and so much and so fre­quently talk'd of, being put into the Possession of our Renown'd and Glorious Queen Elizabeth, as a Mortgage for Money lent the States, (when Poor and [Page 233]Distressed:) 'Tis an old fashi­on'd Fort, and guards the Mouth or Entrance of the River which leads to Middleburgh, and is but a sorry feeble Thing.

But thence we went to FLƲ ­SHING, Flushing. where we lay all Night, and next Morning early walk'd round all their Fortifica­tions, which are modern, strong, in good repair, and command the River, and a pretty way to Sea.

Here is a large old, and a ve­ry great new Dock to build in, and to lay up their biggest Ships of War, which this Province fur­nishes to their Quota; there were several new Frigats, and Ships of great Force on the Stocks, which will be ready early the next Spring: Here they build, [Page 234]and hence they send out a great many Capers, that Plague the French, and return rich, (as they us'd to do from Us when in War with England,) they have al­ways forty or fifty abroad; they chiefly live by that Trade, and by re-taking their own Country­mens, and Allies Ships, having Salvage for the same, if within the Benefit of the Law Marine, or else all to themselves.

Flushing is a fine City and no­ble Port, one of the Cautionary Places deliver'd to the English. It stands at the Mouth of the River Scheld, where is a very convenient Haven, but a League from Middleburg, which is big­ger than this, but not so popu­lous: Here are a great many Fisher-Boats and small Craft be­long [Page 235]to both Places, but most to this: Hence is the Passage to Flanders, whose Banks are in sight, and Bruges is but twenty-two Miles off.

This is the Key of the Sea of the Low-Countries, and is a handsome, cleanly, well-built Place, but not very modern: It was (in vain) attempted by the Dukes of Alva and Palma, but now thought almost impregna­ble: This poor Province has been mightily expos'd to Inundati­ons, and been almost ruin'd by those prodigious ones, An. 1304, and 1509.

TERVEER is the next con­siderable Town, Yerveer. to which we went, and where we made but a short stay, it being far inferior [Page 236]to the t'other two, tho' this is the Third in the Province, the rest being but inconsiderable, and rather Villages.

Here is a good Stadthouse, and and a good Church or two; the Houses are older, and nothing near so Magnificent as in the t'other two Towns; nor is their Commerce to be compar'd, tho' they have a Snack in the East-India Company's Stock, and have some other small Trade, and some Fishermen.

King William, as Prince of Orange, possesses most of the Lord­ships and Baronies in this Pro­vince, and my Lord Odyke some of the rest, who keeps a kind of a Court, and makes some small Figure when at Middleburg; we visited his Palace, which stands [Page 237]pleasantly, but affords no extra­ordinary Remarks. The Wea­ther began to be cold, some Snow fell, and Ice was fear'd, which would have pent us in this famous Island, (which has fifteen or sixteen little ones with­in it) so we resolv'd to take our Leaves of it; and accordingly took Boat for Hevoet sluice, where we arriv'd in a lucky Minute, the English Packet-Boat being within two Hours after to sail, and had a very fair Gail pre­sented; so we went ashoar, re­fresh'd our selves, bought Pro­visions good store, (there being no Halfway-House at Sea,) and laid in some good old Hock and Brandy, and so embark'd about nine that Morning, and next Morning early landed at Har­wich, [Page 238](being glad we were once more got on English Ground, in our Opinion, the best in the World,) where we rested a few Hours, took Coach, and came to Colchester, where we lay that Night, and furnish'd our selves with Eringo, or Sea Holy-Root canded, (and the best done in England,) at four Shillings the Pound, and fill'd our Bellies with large, fat, white, firm Oy­sters, and bought some to bring home; and next Day in the E­vening, being the 19th of Novem­ber 1695, arriv'd safe and sound in London, whence we had been absent three Months and five Days.