Receipts for Cookerie.
PYES:
1 The London Pye.
TAke of Marrow-bons eight, cock-Sparrowes, or Larks, eighteen, Potato-roots, onepound, Eringoroots, a quarter of a pound, Lattice-stalks two ounces, Chesnuts forty, Dates half a pound, Oysters, a peck, Citron-rindes preserved, a quarter of a pound, Hartichokes, two or three, Yelks of hard Egs, twelve, Lemmons sliced two, Barbaries picled one handfull, Gross Pepper, a quarter of an ounce, Nutmeg sliced, one half ounce, Cinnamon whole, half an ounce, Cloves whole a quarter of an ounce, Large mace half an ounce, Corrents a quarter of a pound. Liquor it when it is baked with white-wine, butter and suagr.
2 For a Pye.
Take eight Egs and boyl them hard, half a pound of beef-suet, mince them all together [Page 2]very small. Take three quarters of a pound of Corans, season these with Cynnamon, Nutmegs and Sugar; put all in the crust and bake it.
3 To bake a brest of Veal in Puffe paste.
Take the Veal and par-boyl it, the bones being broken, season your Veal with nutmegs, mace, cloves, a little pepper and salt; mince the tops of young Time and Lemmon, sliced, a pound and a half of butter: Put these in your Puffe-paste, being wet with the yolks of foure Egs to bind it; when the paste is baked, put in a Cawdle made of Ver juice.
4 To make Puffe-paste.
Take a quantity of fine flower, the yolks of four Egs, and the whites of two, and a little cold water, and so make it up into perfect paste, then roul it abroad with your roulling-pin, and take little pieces of cold butter made round, and so fold it over again: in like sort fold it, roul it and butter it seven times; then you may bake any pretty cleictures, florentine or made dish with this paste.
5 To bake a Hare.
Take the Hare and par-boyl him, then take all the flesh from the bone, and beat it in a [Page 3]morter, then season it with pepper, salt, nutmegs and ginger, with two or three cloves beaten among them; when you have seasoned the flesh with these spices, souce it with wine vineger, then lard it thick and bake it in a Coffine; before you close it put sweet butter into it, and when it is baked, put into it at the vent hole a little nutmeg, vinegar, butter and sugar, and that will make the flesh have a delicate taste; in the like sort you may make redd Deer of the Phillet of beef.
6 To make a Pallat pye.
Take Oxe-pallats and boyl them tender, that you may thrust a straw in them, & sheep-tongues six to three pallets, and sweet-breads of Calves; the tongues must be boyled with the pallets, when they be boyled enough, then put in the sweet-breads and the yolks of foure hard Egs; then season it with pepper and salt, parsley and tyme, stirred small, slice the meat as you please, and as the season of the year; put into it sparagus, hartichoks, chesnuts, or any thing you will; then when ye have put them in paste put in a pound of melted butter, when it is baked make a sawce with vinegar, and the yolkes of raw Egges; then put in that sawce.
7 To make an Hartichoke Pye.
Boil your Hartichokes as you would butter [Page 4]them, pull off the leaves and burres from it, then cut the bottome in thinne broad slices, then put them in the Pye and put whole Cinnamond and slices of preserved Oranges, Marrow, Dates and Butter; then close the Pye and leave a hole open in the lid: then set it in the Oven, and when it is a little hardned put some rose water in it, and bake it and serve it into the table
8 To make a Lamb-stone Pye.
Take them and par-boyl them, pull of their skins, then season them with pepper, salt, nutmegs, mace and some Dates and some Lemmon sliced, marrow, some sugar: when it is made fill it up with butter, and when it is almost baked fill it up with a galantine made with rhennish wine, and Dates, Mace, some yolks of Eggs hard rosted, some Potato roots, some Eringoe roots; and if the stones be towards the latter end of the year: then you must steep them all night before you par-boil them in vinegar.
9 To bake redd Deer.
First, par-boil your Deer, then lay it in steep all night in Claret wine and vinegar, then lard it and season it with vinegar, nutmeg pepper, salt and some mace, some Lemmon sliced between, the lard must be seasoned before you stuff it, then put it in your paste with butter and some bay-leaves on the top, [Page 5]then when it is baked make a galentine of Claret-wine and Cinnamond and sugar, and poure it on the Pye, and then set it in again for the space of an houre or two; within less than a quarter of an houre after it is taken out, fill it up with melted butter: approved by my Lady Vidd.
10 To bake a steake Pye with a French pudding in the Pye, Printed.
Season your steaks with pepper, salt and nutmegs, and let it stand in a tray an houre, then take a peece of the leanest of a legg of mutton, and mince it small with Oxe suet, and a few sweet herbs, tops of young tyme and a branch of Penniroyall, two or three of redd Sage, grated bread, yolks of Eggs, sweet Cream, Raisons of the Sunne, work altogether like a pudding with your hand, stiffe and roule it like balls, and put them in the steakes in a deep Coffin with a good piece of sweet butter; sprinkle a little Verjuyce on it, and bake it, then cut it up and roule Sage leaves in butter, and frye them, and stick them upright in the walls, and serve the Pye without a cover with the juice of an Orange or Lemmon.
11. To Bake a Neats tongue.
First pouder it a moneth, then boyle it two or three houres, then blanche it, and whilst it is hot, season it with pepper and [Page 6]salt; lard it, and lay it in a pye made of rice-flower, then strow upon your tongue a good quantity of cloves and mace beaten small, and lay upon that a pound of butter and more, then close your pye, and leave a hole in the top of it. Prick your pye full of holes then set it in the oven, and let it stand four or five houres, then take it out, and put in at the hole a pint or more of vinegar, which may not be very sharp; delay it with Gascoigne wine, then stop up the hole with a piece of past very close, and put it in the oven again, and so let it stand eight houres in soking, or else as your oven is hot, if it be very hot, let it not stand so long; for then it will be too airy, then for the space of three or four days, shake it between your hands twice or thrice, and sometimes turn the bottome upward, when you shake.
12. To bake fallow deer in the best manner.
Bake it first in his own blood only, wipe it clean, but wash not it, bone it and skin it, and season it with pepper and salt, then bake it in fine paste afterwards, either puffe-paste, or short paste.
13. To bake a wild Boare.
Take the buttocks of brawn, and a Phillet, parboyle it and mince it small, and stamp it in a morter till it come like paste all in a lump, then lard it, and use it like the red [Page 7]deer, the Phillets also of Beef for a need will serve very well.
14. To make Capon pyes Spanish fashion.
Take a great flesh Capon parboyl him; then cut of the flesh and mince it with a pound of beef-suet, and the marrow of 3. bones, a little cloves & mace, a little pepper, and a few currans; put all this meat into Paste made with butter, marrow melted, and sugar; and when it comes out of the oven, season it with clarret wine, juice of Orange, and sugar and beaten Amber, and stirre all the meat and this together.
15. To make a Calfes-head pye.
Take your Calfs-head, being parboyled, & cut it into handsome slices as you can, then season it with Nutmegs, a little pepper and salt, and lay it in the Coffen, and put to it some pieces of marrow, some quartered dates, some whole mace, barberies, grapes, lettice, some fresh butter; and so do it up, and bake it not too hard, some white-wine, sugar, verjuice; butter these, and beat together, powre this in, and so serve it in.
16. A delicate Chewet.
Parboyle a piece of a leg of Veale, and being cold, mince it with Beef suet and marrow, and an Apple or a couple of warns; when you have minc't it fine, put to a few par-boyled Currants, six dates minced, marrow cut in little square pieces, a piece of a [Page 8]preserved Orange-pill minced, season all this with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little sugar, then put it into your Coffins, and so bake it: Before you close your pye, sprinkle on a little Rose-water, and when they are baked, shave on a little sugar, and so serve it to the table.
17. To make Pease Cods.
Take marrow and lay it in warme water, then take the yolkes in an egge, and a little grated bread, and mingle them together, and boyle the marrow in them, then take Cinamond, sugar, and Rose-water, and put to it; then take your Paste, and so make it into Pease-cods.
18. The manner how to put a Gammon of Bacon in Paste.
Cause your Gammon of Bacon to be steeped in water more or lesse, according unto its bignesse, thickness and dryness.
In case a Gammon of Bacon be very big, well smoked and dryed, as your Mayence Gammons, and Bayonne Gammons usually are, you must let them steep in the water for at least the space of four and twenty houres or more, and then you may give a guesle whether or no your gammon be well steeped.
Which that you may the better be able to judge of you, shall take it out of the said water, and make an opening or hole in the midst of the flesh, drawing forth a little piece [Page 9]of it; and by tafting it, you may be able to judge whether the salt and Brine be sufficiently extracted; which having done, and finding it according to your expectation, you shall thus prepare it for to be put in Paste.
In the first place therefore you must pare the top of your Gammon till you come to the quick flesh, that so you may take off the superficies or upper part of the flesh, and all that you judge too drye and salt: after which you must also take away the skin or upper part, and you must also cut off the knuckle.
Now, having prepared your Gammon in this manner, you must knead as much dough as you shall judge requisite for your Pasty, and you must make your Crust at least two inches thick, or thereabouts, and upon the middle of the bottom of your Pasty, you make a bed or foundation of slices of fat Bocor.
This bed or foundation of fat Bacon must be as broad as the whole Gammon of Bacon, and upon the said bed of fat Bacon, you must place a good round handfull of Parsly, grosly shreded, after that you shall strew your Gammon with your sweet spices; and consequenty, you shall place it upon the bed of fat Bacon and Parsly: which having done, you shall stick some Cloves upon your Gammon, and a few small pieces of Mace; after [Page 10]which, upon the top of your Gammon, you shall lay another bed of Persly, and a bed of fat Bacon sliced, and five or six Laurell leaves upon the fat Bacon, and after that a good halfe pound of sweet butter, which you must so spread, as that it may quite cover all the slices of fat Bacon, which lye upon your Gammon.
Moreover, you shall knead as much paste or dough upon your kneading board, as will be requisite to make the cover or lid of your Pasly, which dough you must moysten with your little brush, and immediately cover your Pasty therewith; and having thus quite compleated your said Pasty, you must straightway put it into the Oven, which must be heated in the same manner, as if you were to bake houshold bread,
If your Gammon be a great one as aforesaid, it will require three houres boyling, but if it be an indifferent one, two houres and a half will serve, or two hours, according to its bigness; when your Pasty hath been in the Oven about half an hour, you must make three or four holes in the lid for to give your Pasty vent, for otherwise it would burst, and this you must observe in all great Pasties: Moreover, in case the Pasty-Crust doth suddenly get too high colour and growes black, that is a signe your Oven is over heated, and that it burns your pasty, wherefore [Page 11]you must take away the embers,
And on the contrary, if your pasty attains no colour, that's a sign the Oven is not hot enough, and which will force you to increase the embers, that so your pasty may be throughly baked.
One day after your pasty hath been baked you must stop up the holes, which you made in the lid with some dough, lest your pasty might be spoyled by the letting in of Aire at those holes, which would be the cause that your pasty would be subject to grow mouldy, and would not keep at all.
19. An excellent way for baking all sorts of Venison and fowle.
You must generally observe that no kind of flesh whatsoever may be put in paste before it be mortified, therefore you must let that flesh which ye do intend to put in paste be sufficiently mortified, which may be done by hanging it in the Aire, or by burying of it under ground, for the space of twenty and four houres, after which you must beat the said flesh-meat more or less with a woodden rowlet or Pestell according to the said fleshes thickness and hardness, which is a third way to mortifie it: so likewise must you observe that beef and mutton must be more beaten and mortified, than any other flesh whatsoever.
Observe likewise that it is requisite to take out the superfluous and great bones of such flesh as you intend to put into paste; as for example, out of the leg or shoulder of mutton, and as for the remaining bones which are in the said flesh, you must burst and break them; at least in case you intend not to take them out quite, in the like manner you take out the breast-bone of a Turkey Cock, and of other fowl in like manner.
Observe also that in case your flesh which you intend to pastry up hath great nerves, and hard sinnews or tough skins; you must take all that away: As for example, from a shoulder or leg of Mutton you must take of the skin in like manner, if you intend to make a Hare-pye, and that you apprehend it may be an old and hard one, you must strip off its uttermost skinne, before you lard it.
Moreover, you must observe that in case there be hollow places in such flesh as you intend to pastry up, as there is in a Hare and several Fowl: you must bruise and breake those bones which cause the same hollowness, and so make your flesh even and smooth. As for example the maw of a Turky Cock which you must cut and slash at every four fingers distance, that so you may the better be able to lard it.
Now in case your Venison, or other gross Viands which you do intend to put in paste, [Page 13]should be somewhat tainted, or in case they should be warm eaten, cause water and salt to be boyled together, and let your said Venison or other gross meats steep therein as in a broth; and having so steeped for a while, draw it forth again, and hang it up to dry, that so the said liquor may run out.
Now your Viands having bin prepared according to the several foregoing prescriptions you may lard them very close with great pieces of fat Bacon, bigger or lesser according to the proportion and quality of your several sorts of Viands, some slices of Bacon as thick and as long as your little finger, for Venison, Beef and Mutton; others less according to your own discretion, and it will be requisite that you steep your larding Bacon some pritty while before you use it in a little Vinegar seasoned with salt; and before you lard your Viands with them, Powder them with beaten white pepper or with your sweet spices which you please.
And in case your Viands be thick and of the length of half a foot or thereabouts: as for example a brisket of Veal or a Turkey Cock and the like, either lance them or cut them with trenches at four inches distance, or thereabouts, in such a wise however, that all the skin or upper part of the flesh may remain whole, and by the means of these deep trenches you may easily come to lard [Page 14]all the parts of your said viands which cannot be otherwise done, besides that your Viands remaining intire and whole, would be the more difficult to be baked, and the sauce or liquor of your Pasty would not be able to penetrate or pass through your flesh, but with a great deal of difficulty in case it were not lanced in the same manner as hath bin proposed.
Some there be that doe steep their Beef, Mutton, Veal, and other Viands which they do intend to put in Paste two or three houres in Verjuyce or Vinegar seasoned with salt or pepper, or with sweet spices: and with some sweet herbs, and the which must be done as soon as the said Viands shall have bin beaten with the pestell or rowling pin; and after the said Viands shall have bin larded, and when you shall have drawn it forth of the said liquour, you must perfect the putting of it into Paste in the following manner.
Your flesh being ready to be put into paste, you must season it according to your own discretion with your salt spices in such a manner, as that your said Viands doe well retain the salt or season, to which end you must pouder them throughly on all sides; and in case it be a Fowle, or any other slesh that is hollow, you must as then powder it inwards: and before you powder it on the [Page 15]thighs or back, you must make some Lancements er inlets therein to the end that your said spices may the better hold or fasten, and may have the better operation.
Your Viands being thus seasoned, you must place them on the one end of your dough or paste, either framed of Rye crust or of Wheaten, or white which you please at discretion as aforesaid, which said paste must be at least an inch in thickness, and long enough to make up the whole pasty.
Your Viand or Venison, or the like, being placed upon one of the ends of your paste, you may stick therein some few Cloves, and after that you may fill it up with some slices of fat Bacon, unto which you may also adde some Bay-leaves; and over and above all these things, you may also apply some fresh butter spread over the whole Pasty as aforesaid, in the fore-going chapter.
Observe or note that to make a good Hare or Turky pye, or a pye with four Ducks, you must have at least a quarter and a half, or much about half a peck and a quarter, or three quarters of a bushel of meal; moreover, two pounds of butter, and if so be you will have the crust to be very fine, you may put therein two pounds and an half, or three pounds of butter: yet however note this also that the crust being so fat, may be subject to burst in the Oven.
Now in case your pasty be of Venison, or of any other viand that is not fat: As for example, in case you have a mind ro accommodate a Hare excellently well, you must needs have one half pound or three quarters of a pound of fresh butter to wrap the Hare in, and at least one pound and a half or two pounds of fat Bacon, as well to lard your Viand, as to cover it after it is empasted.
But if the meat you intend to put in paste be not over dry nor lean: As for example, Suppose it be a Turkey Cock well fatned, or a good fat joynt of Mutton; you shall only stand in need of a good quarter of a pound of fresh butter to enclose the said Viand withall and goad store of fat Bacon to lard it to boot, wherein you must not fail.
Another observation you may take along with you that some Pastry-men do make use of sweet Suet in stead of fresh butter to raise their paste withall.
Finally, so soon as your flesh shall be well and throughly seasoned with all the requisite spices and ingredients aforenamed, and that it shall be well lined with butter below and above, you may as then turn up the end of the paste which is left over the whole, onely moystning the end of the paste which remains to refresh it, and joyn well the sides; and when you have thus joyned or added the sides, you may give it what shape you will; [Page 17]after which you may burnish your pye or pasty and immediately after you may put it to the Oven.
Observe that your Oven must be almost as hot as is prescribed in the precedent Chapter: and thus these foregoing pasties will be sufficiently baked in two houres space, provided they be not extraordinary great thick ones: And when your said pasties shall be thus well and throughly baked and cooled again, you must not forget to stop the holes which you made in their lids, for the reasons before alledged.
By reason that in case you doe not make the said holes in the lid of your said pasty within a little after it hath been in the Oven it will split or burn by reason of the heat.
20. The Pasty Royal.
Take a legg of Mutton, strip the skin off from it, take out the bones and the sinnues, after which beat the flesh to mortifie it and then cause it to be well chopt, and as you chop it, you must season it with salt spices.
Now your meat being thus well chopped, you must make up your paste of Rye-crust, and give it at least two inches in thickness proportionably according unto the bignesse of your pasty, and raise the paste thereof high enough.
You must line the bottom and sides thereof with fat Bacon in slices, and in the bottome you must also place a good handful of Oxe suet which is small minced and thereunto add your meat after it shall have been well minced; and in case Chesnuts be in season, you may add thereunto a reasonable proportion after they shal have been first half roasted.
When your meat shall be thus in your pastie you must add thereunto one handfull of Beef suet well minced, and about half a pound of Beef marrow cut into small pieces about the bigness of a walnut: All which compositon you must cover or overspred with some slices of fat Bacon.
Finally, you shall cover this Pasty with Rye-crust at least a fingers breadth thick, and you must make a hole in the said lidd.
Such a like Pasty as this must be at least twenty or four and twenty hours in the oven, which said oven, you must all the while keep shut, to the end that it may yield a sufficient heat whereby the said Pasty may be thorowly baked, which said pasty you must oftentimes take out of the said Oven to supply it with broath or gravie as often as it shall be wanting.
To which purpose, take the bones and the skin and sinewes which ye have cut away from the said legg of Mutton, bruise them indifferently, [Page 19]and afterwards boyl them together with the said skin and sinewes for the space of one houre and a half in water without salt, and when as the said liquour and broath shall be concocted in such manner as that there shall be but a pint left, you shall make use of it in the following manner, viz.
After your Royal-Pasty shall have been about the space of four houres in the Oven, you must draw it, and you must poure thereinto with a funnel about the quantity of a quarter of a pint of the said liquor or broath being well heated, after which you shall again put your pasty in the Oven, and within two or three houres you shall draw it, and you shall see whether or no it doth want any sauce or liquor, in case whereof you shall add more sauce unto it: and in this manner you shall draw your said pasty at several times till it hath continued in the Oven for the space of fifteen or sixteen houres; when as you shall again draw it forth of the Oven, and shall take off its lidd, for to imbellish your pasty with the yolks of egs hard boyled cut in quarters; you may also adde thereunto Mucerons, the gills and combs of Cocks and other like sweet breads; you may also thereunto add a small clove of Garlick and a drop or two of vinegar, for to make the sauce more pleasing and tart: observe also that your [Page 20]Lamb-stones and sweet-breads must be seasoned with your sweet spices.
After which you must return the said pasty into the Oven again, and you shall let it remain there till it be throughly baked at least three houres afterwards, and you must have a care that the sauce or liquour thereof be perfectly consumed before you take your pasty out of the Oven for good and all: So likewise must you have a care to maintain the fire in the said Oven, in such manner as that the e may be a sufficient heat to bake the said pasty without the burning it.
When the like pasty is throughly baked, you shall take out of it the clove of Garlick which you did put into it before you doe serve it up to the Table, and after that you shall fasten on the lidd of your pasty again, that so your pasty may be brought whole to the Table: and if so be that the said pye be not eaten up at one meal you may cause it to be heated again in the Oven, until such time as it is quite expended.
To make a mince pye the Italian fashion with leaved or fine Paste.
Prepare your leaved or fine paste, and give it an inch thickness in the bottome, whereon you shall place a lay of about a handfull of minced veale and suet together, unto which you may adde three Partridges or old Pigegeons, [Page 21]having cut off their feet and legs; the wings and necks, and beaten the brest flat, which said fowle you shall lard in several places in the self-same manner, as was praseribed in the larding of a Venison pasty, after which you may season them with your salt-spices and put into them peeled Chesnuts, Pine-Apple kernels, and Currans, a little handfull of each, three yolks of egs half boyled, and cut through the middle, a small quantity of beaten Cynamon, and a quarter and a halfe, of a pound of Sugar, a slice or two of preserved Lemmon peel, and hereunto you may adde some Mousecherows and Lamb-stones, and Sweet-breads, if they are to be had, and if so be you are not minded to put Partriges or Pigeons into your said pye, you may make the same of any other meat; as for example, a Coney cut into several pieces, and well larded.
Moreover, to keep a better nourishment or to augment the meat of this your pasty, you may adde unto all these ingredients one handfull of minc't-Veale with marrow or suet, a quarter of a pound of each, and some flices of fat Bacon on the top of the whole, which said pasty being thus well filled up, you must cover the same with a lid of leaved or thin paste, not above the thickness of your little finger, or thereabouts; wash, or varnish your said lid, and make a hole in the top of your said lid.
Observe that you must of necessity wrap your whole pasty in a buttered paper, which must be a high as your said pasty, and you must tye it about your said pye with packthread, to preserve your pasty the better; after which, cause your pye to be put into the Oven, being placed upon a sheet of white paper and you must give your Oven an indifferent warm harth as you are used to do unto a Custard, this Pasty will require at least two houres and a halfe baking.
When your said pye is allmost baked, you must cause it to be drawne forth of the Oven, and you must poure thereinto with a funnel through the hole, which you had left in the lid, a sweet sawce made with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and almost a quarter of a pint of wine, whereinto you must infuse a little Cynnamon poudred; after which you must put your pie into the Oven again, and there leave it at least half an hour, to thicken the said sweet sawce.
21. To make minced Pyes of fish, the bones and gristles being taken out.
Take as much fine dough as your owne judgement and experience will guide you to, which said paste you must make as fine as your minced pies or Cockney pies, and prepare and shape your pasty or pies in the same manner, as your Cardinals pasties are made; [Page 23]and in case you make them like your minced pies, you must remember to make your Crust a little thicker in the bottome than elsewhere.
When your pastie is got into a readiness, you must first line it with a slender lay of butter, after which you shall fill your pie up halfe way with minced Carp, or of other fish, which is seasoned in the same manner, as we shall hereafter prescribe,
After which you must place upon your minced fish some few lenten sweet breads, and Junkets: as for example; some morsels of hartichoke stools, of parboyled Sparagus or Carps tongues, boiled in good broath, or Chestnuts half rosted; and out of lent you may put therein some yolkes of egges hard boiled; so likewise on Gaudie-dayes, you may adde thereunto some morcels of marrow.
When your pie shall be thus replenished with Lamb-stones, and sweet-breads, you must adde another morsell of butter thereunto, and although you should not chance to put any Lamb-stones and sweet-breads at all in your said pie, yet you must not faile to place a lay of butter upon the first minced fish.
After which you may proceed to fill up your pie to the very top with your minced fish upon the top of all, which you must again [Page 24]place a lay of butter, and if so be your pie may be made in a round form like unto your hot minced pyes, you must add unto them a lidd of paste like unto a pinacle, which you must place upon the top and afterwards, you must wash or varnish your said pye lidd.
Put these pyes into the Oven, and give them an indifferent warm hearth, as you do in the baking of your small minced pies.
And in case you intend to make these minced fish pies uncovered, after they shall have been baked, you may adde unto them a sweet sawce, and if it be upon a flesh-day, you may adde thereunto the Gravie of a joint of Mutton, or of any other piece of rost-meat, or else a white sawce made of the yolks of raw Eggs beaten together with a little verjuice.
After which you must put your pie into the Oven again for a little while, that so it may partake of the taste of the said sawce, and likewise the said sawce may have time to thicken, but you must observe not to make these minced pies of Fish too big; for that, else you will not be able to handle them, nor order them well. And therefore you had better make them in the manner of tarts, and brake them in a tart-pan, making them up in a paste, or dough, very thin, and, as we formerly called it, a leaved paste.
22. The manner to make a tart of marrow of Beef, or marrow bones.
Take a quarter of a pound of Beef marrow, break it into little morsels betwixt your fingers, and reduce it to the smallnesse of a hasell nut, adde thereunto the like quantity of powder sugar, and two yolks of Egges, a small quantitie of salt spices, some Pine-apple kernels, some Currans, and the rind of a Lemmon small shred, adde thereunto likewise some Naples Biskets, or Mackaroons, or peeled and beaten Almonds, or about the bignesse of an egge of grated white-bread; mingle all these together with a fork or spoon, and when you have prepared all these Ingredients, you must fill up your pastie or tart Coffin therewith, and put into your tart-pan; after which you may either close your tart quite up on the top, or else you may cover it with a lid of paste, which is pricked and transparent in several parts.
Cause your tart to be baked, and after that powder it with some sugar, and put it into the Oven again for a little while.
23. To make a Lumber Pye.
Take three pound of Mutton, Veale, or Lamb, and three pound of Beef suet, and shred them small together, and take the tops of Time and Marjerum, and Winter-Savorie, [Page 26]a handfull of each; and mince them very small by themselves, and take a peny white loafe and grate it, and take ten egges and break them on your meat, and two pound of Currans, and for leasoning, take two Nutmegs, and a race of ginger, and a few cloves, and three of four blades of Mace, and a little salt, & so mix all these together, and make them into balls so big as an egge, and when your pie is made, put these balls in, and lay on them a few raisins, and a few dates sliced, and so lay on the lid, and it will require two hcures baking, and being baked, make a leer to put in it of Verjuice, and a little sack, and a little fresh butter, and a little sugar, and set that on the fire not too hot, and so take the yolkes of three egges, and so beat them with a little Verjuice, and so brew them together, and powre it into the pie, the lid being cut up, and if you please lay on your lid whole, or cut in pieces, and set the pieces above the pie, and so serve it hot, and it is a very good Lumber pie.
24. A Potato Pye.
Boyle your Potatoes tender, and then peel them and let them be cold, then season them with beaten Cinnamon, Nutmegs, Pepper, a little let the pieces of your Potatoes be cut indifferent, and fill up your pie; then put the marrow of two or three bones to them, [Page 27]and some dates cut in halfes, a litte mace, some barbaries, or grapes, or lemmons, and some Cittron sockets, and then put in halfe a pound of Butter, and close it, and bake it; liquor it with the liquor you make for a Chicken pie.
25. Pyes of sheeps tongues.
Wash them with luke warm water, and cleanse them, then put them into paste, take Mushrooms, small pallats of Beef, cut beatils, a little parsly, and chibbols, pass all in the pan, poure on it some yolks of egges, bottomes of Hartiehokes, beaten lard, or fresh butter, and put them into your Pie, which you shall bake for the space of two houres, and serve with a sawce of yolkes of egges, allayed with verjuice.
26. How to make a Paris Pye.
Take good large Chichins and quarter them, or very small chickens whole, with the giblets; raise your pie round, and prepare to mixe with the Chickens a handful of Cockles, or two oxe pallets blanched and sliced, nine or ten yolkes of egges, some minced in halfes, Pine-kernels blanched, the marrow of two bones cut into Gobs a little sliced Mushrome, if you have any pickled, season all these together with salt, Ginger, Nutmeg, Mace, and a very little Pepper, your [Page 28]pie being made, and filled, put in a good quantitie of Butter, and close it; it will require two houres baking, it being almost baked, put in a little white-wine, or verjuice, or some of the liquor which stewed your Oisters, if you do stew any, beat it up with a piece of butter, and serve it up hot.
27. How to make a Clery pye.
Take two handfuls of Clary, wash it, and cut it reasonable small, beat it together with eight whites of egges, and halfe yolkes, and put it into a frying pan, with a good piece of butter, sweeten it, stirring it well together as it fryeth let it not fry too long, and have a care of burning; then take a handful or two of spinage boiled very tender, presse out the water very clean, and mince it small; then take two or three Potatoes boiled and sliced, and marrow minced, season all these together, with Nutmeg, Mace, Salt, Sugar, Verjuice, and Lemmon minced, being pared; your pie being raised, but in these Ingredients, and lay the marrow of two or three bones on the top as whole as you can, close it, and bake it in a soft oven an houre and a half, then make a Caudle with yolkes of Egges, Cinnamon, Verjuice, and a piece of Butter, Sugar, and a sliced Lemmon if you have it; beat it well together till it boileth, the Pie baked, put it in a dish, scrape sugar on it, and serve it up.
28. How to make an Olive Pye.
Slice the flesh of a Leg of Veale into thin slices, the breadth of four fingers, and hack them with the back of a Cleaver, then take six ounces of Beef-suet minced small, then take Thime, sweet Marjerome, Winter-Savory, and Capers, mince them small, and season it with Mace, Cloves, Mutmeg, Cinnamon, Pepper, and Salt; then take a quart of great Oisters, drein them from the liquor, and roule them in the Ingredients, and take the slices of Veale, and roule them up with the Ingredients in them, with two Oisters in either of the Olives, then lay them into the pie with good store of butter over and under; But before you butter the top, lay in five or six yolks of egges, some bits of Bacon and Sausage made up into Balls, with sliced Lemmon: the rest of the Oisters and Ingredients on the top of the pie; then lid it, and let it bake, and when the pie is halfe baked, put in a quarter of a pint of Claret wine, and let it bake; then make a Leer or Sawce for it with Claret wine, one Oinion or two, the liquor of Oisters, two Anchoves, letting it boile a little; take out the Onions, and beat it up with the juice of a Lemmon and Butter, when it is baked, put in this Leer, shake it well together, and serve it up hot to the table.
Boyled and rost meats.
29. To boyle a legge of Mutton after the French fashion.
Take a legge of Mutton, and take out all the meat at the but end saving the skinne whole, and leaving the bone, then mince the meat small with oxe sweet marrow, and put into it a little grated bread, sweet cream, and yolks of egges. A few sweet herbs chopt small, and Currans put in them, two ounces of minced Dates, a few Raisons of the Sun, and work them in your hand like pudding stuffe, then put it into your leg of Mutton again, and stew it in a pot with a marrowbone, with stewed broth, and your legge of of Mutton dry: so you make two boiled meats in one dish.
30. To boyle a chine of Mutton or Veal.
Cover your meat with a little fair water, and a little white-wine, and whole mace, one nutmeg grated, one handfull of hearbs clean picked, and bruised with the hand; young lettice, spring tops of thime, parsley; when all is boiled well together, thicken it with a crust of Manchet, a yolk of an egge steeped in some of the same broth, then season it with Pepper and Verjuice.
31. To make chickens fat in three or foure dayes.
Take a pint of sweet flower, and a pint of French wheat flower, otherwise called (Buck) and put into it halfe a pound of course sugar, then make it up in stiffe paste, and roll it up in little rolls, and wet them in warm milk, and so cramme your chickens, and that will make them fat in three or four dayes, if you please, you may sow them up behind the two last dayes.
32. To boyle a Capon in white broth.
Take your Capon and set him on the fire in fair water and when he hath boiled awhile, take some of the broth, and some white wine, and put them into the pot wherein you mean to make your broth, then take marrow, mace, and dates, and put them into the broth with sugar; the dates must be cut in halfs, and then set them on the fire, and let it boile softly: for if it boile much, the marrow will consume away, then when you are ready to serve your meat, take yolks of egs, and strain them with verjuice into your broth, and let your broth boile after your egges be in; you must boile your Pruans and Currans by themselves, and lay them upon your Capon, when you have disht him up, put salt into your Capon alwayes.
33. To boyle a Capon larded, with Lemmons in white broth.
Take a young Capon being scalded and truffed, and put him in fair water by himselfe, throw a little dustie Oat meal into the water, for it will make the flesh boile white; then take two or three ladels full of strong mutton broth, with a fagot of sweet herbs, a a piece of large mace, or a nutmeg quartered, a little white pepper, and a little white-wine, two or three dates quartered; thicken your broth with Almonds, season it with sugar verjuice, and a piece of sweet butter; then take a preserved Lemmon, cut in small pieces, and so lard your Capon very thick, then dish your Capon up, and pour your broth on him, take some few par-boiled Currans to garnish his brest, let your Currans be par-boiled by themselves, because they shall not discolor the broth, scrape sugar on him, and so serve him up, and garnish your side with sucket, this is an excellent way for young Pullets, Capons, and Chickens.
34. To boyle a Capon in Orange broth.
First take your Capon as you did for white broth, then take Oranges, and take of the rhind, and cut the rest overthwart, and pick out all the seeds so near as you can, and lay them in fair water a whole night if you can, [Page 33]then taken Muskadine, or Hyppocrasse, which is better, and put it in your broth; and into it put the Oranges, the finest sugar you can get; then put in large mace, and boiled dates by themselves, and when your broth is almost ready, put in the dates and the large mace, a good quantity of Rose-water; if you will have this broth ready by twelve of the clock, you must set it on at eight; for it must boile very softly.
35. To boyle Pigeons with Rice.
Take your Pigeons being scalded and truss't, and put them in a pipkin, with a ladle-full or two of strong mutton broth, and a little white-wine; put into their bellies a little parsly, savory, and the top of young thime, put in your broth a little crust of Manchet, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a piece of whole mace and when your Pigeons be boiled tender, thicken your broth with rice, being boiled with sweet milk, season it with verjuice, sugar, and a little pepper; garnish your dish with a sliced orange, and so serve it.
36. To boyle Wigeon, Teale, and Mallard.
Take a Wigeon, Teale, or Mallard, being scalded, and trusse them, halfe rost them, then take them from the spit, and with your knife lace them down the brest, stick [Page 34]two or three whole cloves in the brest, then Put them in a pipkin with two or rhtee ladlefulls of strong mutton broth, and a little whit-wine a piece of whole mace, thicken it with a tost steeped in some of the broth, season it with verjuice, sugar, and a little pepper; garnish your dishes with clusters of preserved barberies, if you think good you may put one minced onion into your broth, it is good relish to boyle all kind of water-fowl.
37. To boyle Larkes or Sparrowes in white broth.
Take Larks and Sparrowes truss't, and put the tops of young parsly in their bellies, and so put them into a pipkin, with a ladle-full of mutton broth, and a litte white-wine; thicken it with two or three yolkes of egges drawne through a strainer, with a little of the same broth, season it with a little sugar and pepper, put into it before you take it up a few par boiled Currans and pieces of marrow cut into square pieces like dice, and so serve them in upon sippets, garnish your dish with preserved skirrets or lettice sallets, shave sugar on the dish side, and so serve it.
38. To boyle Gudgeons or Flounders.
Take your Gudgeons and Flounders, and put them into a posnet with a pint of white-wine, [Page 35]and half a pint of fair water, a piece of white mace, and the tops of young thyme, or a branch of Rosemary, a good piece of sweet butter seasoned with verjuice, sugar, and a little pepper, and serve them upon sippets.
39. To make broth for a Pike.
Take half a pint of white-whine, and a little water, a little yest, a little loose parsley, and sweet herbes, rosemary, thyme, and savory, tyed together with some large mace, and butter, and set them altogether, to boyle, and when it is boyled enough, season it with grosse pepper, salt, and verjuice, and boyle the Pyke by it selfe in water, salt, and a little rosemarie, and a little white-wine, (if you will bestow the cost) and so serve it.
40. To make a sauce for fryed Gurnet or Rocket.
Take nutmeg, vinegar, sugar and pepper, and let them boyl in a chafing dish of coles before you serve it, and thicken it with the yolk of an hard egge: It is an excellent sauce for Pigs pettitoes being fryed, but you must boyl your pettitoes and let them stand till they be cold, then may you slice the feet, and cut the liver and lites in pieces; then roule [Page 36]your pigges feet in a little thin butter being made with sweet cream, yolks of egs, and fine flower, and then your petitoes, liver and lites will shew very yellow, and the sauce will make them eat very pleasing.
41. To stew a Carp.
Take a good deal of salt, rub it all upon the Carp, fetch off the skin of it clean, then put it into a dish, to save the blood; cut of the head and taile; let it bleed, and as it bleeds trick in softly (as you stir the blood) a little wine vinegar; take nothing out of it but the worst guts, wipe the belly of it clean; then put it into the blood with wine stirred well together with a bundle of sweet hearbs, slices of Lemmon, whole Mace, a whole Onion; when it is stewed tender, take away the Onion and Lemmon, put in a good peece of sweet butter, a little vinegar and sugar if you will.
42. How to boyl a Hanch of Venison.
Let your Venison be powdered then boyl it in water; for the sauce, take some of the strongest broath and put it into a pipkin with vinegar, ginger sliced, a little pepper, Colly-flower or Cole-wort stalks boyled, and the pith taken out and put in large mace, Cowes udder boyled and sliced, a little [Page 37]horse raddish root scraped, and sweet herbs; boyl all these a convenient time, then dish the Venison being boyled, and beat up the sauce with a little butter and lay Colly-flower on it and what you please. This sauce is very good with a boyled poudred goose, you may lard your goose with bacon if you please.
43. How to make a grand boyled meat.
Kill and pull or scald what young fowl is in season, as pigeons wild or tame, partridges, pheasants, teal, plover, widgeons, snipes, larkes or any other fowl, you may doe a young coney wilde or tame; truss them and boil them as fair and as white as you can; and while they are boyling, take strong broth wherein veal or any other fresh butchers meat hath bin boyled to pieces, put to it an Oxe pallet blanched, and cut in dice work pestaches, pine kernels blanched, a quart of white wine, a good quantitie of large mace salt, and five or sixe dates cut to pieces; boil these together as long as you think it expedient, and when it is boiled put to it a large piece of butter and lemmon sliced very thin, the rinde being pared off, and beat it up thick; then dish your meat orderly with thin toasts in the bottome, poure the sauce on them; garnish with sheeps [Page 38]tongues boyled, blanched and split, rowled in green batter, and fried, green sliced lemmon and orange, sippet it and serve it up hot to the table.
43. How to stew a Breame.
Scale your bream and wash it without, but preserve the blood for to stew it with, as followeth; Take clarer, vinegar, salt, ginger sliced two large races, the pulp of one pound of pruans being boyled, and strained into the broth, one Anchove, sweet herbs, and horse radish roots stamped and strained; stew these with no other liquor, than will just cover the fish, when it is stewed beat up some of the liquor with butter, and poure it on the fish; being dished garnish it with rasped bread, lemmon, orange, and barberies, serve it up hot to the table.
45. How to roast a Calves-head with Oysters.
Split your head as to boyl, take out the brains washing them very well with the head, cut out the tongue, boil it a little and blanch it, let the brains be par-boild as well as the tongue, mince the brains and tongue, a little sage, Oysters marrow, or beef suet very small mixe with it, being minced, three or foure yelks of raw egs, beaten ginger, pepper, nutmeg, grated bread, salt and a little [Page 39]sack, if the brains and egs make it not moist enough; this being done par boil your Calves head a little in water, then take it up and drie it well with a cloth filling the holes where the brains and tongue lay with this meat, and binde it up close together, and spit it and stuffe it with Oysters compounded with the same ingredients as they were with the shoulder of mutton, sticke it as full of them as you can, and roast it througly, setting a dish under it to catch the gravie, wherein let there be Oysters, sweet herbs minced a little white wine and a sliced nutmeg; when the head is rosted set the dish wherein the sauce is on the coals to stew a little, then put in a piece of butter, the juice of an orange and salt, beating it up thick together, dish your head and put the sauce to it, and serve it up hot to the table.
46. To make Cream-cabbidge.
Set a gallon of new milk on the fire when it boyls scim it so long as froth ariseth, then emptie it into ten or twelve bouls as fast as you can without frothing, and set them where the winde may come: when they are a little cold gather the Cream that is on the top, with your hand crumpling it together, and lay it on a plate; when you have laid three or foure layings on one another wet a feather in rose water and musk and stroke [Page 40]over it, and searce a little grated nutmeg, and fine sugar and lay three or foure more layes more on it as before. This do till you have off all the cream on the bouls, then put all the milk to boil again, and when it boiles set it as you did before in bouls, and use it in like manner: it will yield foure or five times seething, which you must put on your plate as before, that it may lie round and high like a Cabbadge: let one of the first bouls stand, because the cream of them will be thick and most crumpled; take that up last to lay uttermost, and when you serve it up, searce or scrape sugar on it: this must be made overnight for dinner, or morning for supper.
Boiled and rost meats. A rump of Beefe, after the best manner.
Take a rump of Beefe, or the little end of the brisket, and par-boil it half an houre, then take it up and put it in a deep dish, then flash it in the side that the Gravie may come out, then throw a little pepper and salt between every cut, then fill up the dish with the best claret wine, and put to it three or foure pieces of large mace, and set it on the [Page 41]coals close covered, and boil it above an houre and a half, but turn it often in the mean time, then with a spoon take off the fat and fill it with claret wine, and slice sixe onions, and a handful of Caphers, or broom-buds, half a dozen of hard Lettice sliced, three spoon-fuls of wine-vinegar and as much verjuice, and then set it aboyling with these things in it till it be tender, and serve it up with brown bread, and sippets fiyed with butter, but be sure there be not too much fat in it when you serve it.
48. A Bisque of Carps.
Take twelve small Carps, and one great one, all male carps, draw them and take out all the melts, flea the twelve small Carps, cut off their heads and take out their tongues and take the fish from the bones of the flead Carps, and twelve oysters, two or three yelks of hard egs, mash all together, season it with cloves, mace and salt, make thereof a stiffe searce, add thereto the yelks of four or five eggs to bind it, fashion that first into balls or loppings as you please, lay them in a deep dish or earthen pan, and put thereto twenty or thirty great oysters, two or three Anchoves, the melts and tongues of twelve Carps, half a pound of fresh butter, the liquor of your oysters the juice of a Lemmon, or two; a little white wine, some of Corbilion [Page 42]wherein your great Carp is boyled, and a whole Onyon, so set them a stewing on a soft fire, and make a hoop therewith, for the great Carp you must scald him, and draw him and lay him for half an houre with the other Carps heads in a deep pan with so much white wine vinegar as will cover and serve to boyl him, and the other heads in; put therein pepper, whole mace, a race of ginger, nutmeg, salt, sweet herbs, an Onion or two sliced, a lemmon; when you boyl your carps, poure your liquour with the spice into the kettle wherein you will boyle him; when it is boyled put in your Carp, let it not boyl too fast for breaking: after the Carp hath boyled a while, put in the head, when it is enough take off the kettle, and let the Carps and the heads keep warm in the liquour till you goe to dish them. When you dress your bisque, take a large silver dish set it on the fire, lay therein sippets of bread, then put in a ladle full of your Corbilion, then take up your great Carp and lay him in the middest of the dish, then range the twelve heads about the Carp, then lay the searce of the Carp, lay that in, then your Oysters, Melts, and Tongues, then poure in the liquor wherein the searce was boiled, wring in the juice of a Lemmon, and two Oranges, garnish your dish with pickled Barberies, Lemmons and Oranges, and serve [Page 43]it very hot to the Table.
To dress a Phillet of Veal after the Italian way.
Take a young tender Phillet of Veal, pick away all the skin in the folds of the flesh, after you have picked it out clean so that no skins are left, nor any hard thing, put to it some good white wine that is not too sweet, in a bowl & wash it and crush it well in the winde, do so twice, then strew upon it a pouder that is called Tamara in Italy, and so much salt as will season it well, mingle the powder well upon the pasts of your meat, then power to it so much white wine as will cover it, when it is thrust down into a narraw pan, lay a trencher on it and a weight to keep it down, let it lye two nights and one day, put a little pepper to it when you lay it in the sauce, and after it is souced so long take it out, and put it into a pipkin with some good beef broth, but you must not take any of the pickle to it, but onely beef broth that is sweet and not salt, cover it close, and set it on the Embers, onely put to it with the broth a few whole Cloves and Mace and let it stew till it be enough; it will be very tender, and of an excellent taste, it must be served with the same broth as much as vvill cover it.
To make the Italian take Coriander seed [Page 44]two ounces, Anniseed one ounce Fennel-seed one ounce, Cloves two ounces, Cynnamon one ounce; these must be beaten into a grosse powder, putting into it a little powder of Winter Savorie; if you like it, keep this in a Viol glasse close stopt, for your use.
50, To boyle Ducks after the French Fashion.
Take and lard them, and put them upon a spit, and half rost them, then draw them, and put them into a pipkin, and put a quart of claret-wine into it, and chesnuts, and a pint of great oysters, taking the beards from them, and three onyons minced very small, some mace, and a little beaten ginger, a little thyme stript, a crust of a French roul grated put into it to thicken it, and so dish it upon sops; this may be diversified; if there be strong broth, there need not be so much wine put in, and if there be no oysters or chesnuts, you may put in hartichoke bottomes, turneps, and colly-flowers, Bacon in thin slices, sweet-breads, &c.
51. To make a Pudding of Calves-Chaldrons.
Take your Chaldron after it is half-boiled and cold, mince it as small as you can, with half a pound of beef-suet, or as much marrow, [Page 45]season it with a little onyons, parsley, thyme, and the outermost rhyne of a piece of Lemmon, all shred very small, salt, beaten nutmeg, cloves and mace mixed together, with the yolks of four or five egges, and a little sweet Cream; then have ready the great guts of a mutton scraped and washed very clean, let your gut have laine in white-wine and salt half a day before you use it, when your meat is mixed, and made up somewhat stiffe; put it into the sheeps gut, and so boile it: when it is boiled enough; serve it to the table in the gut.
52. To make the best Sawcidges that ever were eat.
Take a leg of Pork, and cut off all the lean, and shred it very small, but leave none of the strings or skins amongst it; then take two pound of beef-suet, and shred it very small, then take two handfulls of red sage, a little pepper, and salt, and nutmeg, and a small piece of an onion, chop them altogether with the flesh and suet, if it is small enough, put the yolks of two or three egges and mixe all together, and make it up in a paste if you will use it, roule out as many pieces as you please, in the form of an ordinary Sawcidge, and so fry them; this paste will serve a fortnight, upon occasion.
53. How to make a Paste with oyle, and the way how to take away the sent of the oyle.
In the first place, you must set your oyle over the fire, that is to say, you must cause it to boyle till it bubbles no more, and by this means you will take away both the sent and the unpleasantnesse of the oyle; some others, whilest the oyle is a boiling, put a crust of bread into it.
Having thus prepared your oile, you may put upon your kneading-board; as for example, one pint of meale flower, whereunto adde two or three yolks of egges, and as much salt as you can take up betwixt your fingers, and as much oile as your own discretion will prompt you, to the fourth part of half a pint of water, or thereabouts, (a little more or lesse;) mingle all these things very well together, and work your paste throughly with your hands, but leave it somewhat of the hardest, because the oyle hath not so firm and solid a body as the butter: finally, having made your paste or dough in this manner, you may make use of it according to your pleasure.
44. To make sweet Paste or dough.
For Example,
Take a quarter of a pound of powdred sugar, [Page 47]sifted through a haire, or ranging sive, then put it into a clear marble morter, adde thereunto the quarter of the white of an egge, and about half a spoonful of Lemmon juice, stirre all these softly together, untill the sugar begins to jelly, and in case it will not easily jelly, adde thereunto some few drops of rose-water, and when the sugar doth begin to jelly, you must beat it with a pestel, till it becomes a hard and firm paste; and when the same is well mingled, you may make pastie crust thereof.
Note, that at your pleasure you may also make paste, that is but half sweetened, by mingling an equal part in proportion of sugar, and of meal together; the which you may mingle together in the selfe-same manner, as is here afore described.
55. To make sweet spices, which are used by Pastry-Cooks.
For example, take two parts of vinegar, as two ounces, and one part, viz. one ounce of beaten pepper, mingle them together, adde thereunto beaten cloves, and nutmegs very small grated, and beaten mace, one ounce or thereabouts, of each, for one pound of pepper, more or lesse as you please; and put up all these several Ingredients thus mingled in a Box.
Note, that it is at your libertie to preserve [Page 48]all the foregoing several sorts of spices separately in litte leather purses, or in a box, which is divided into several drawers, or repartitions.
Note also, that divers persons do onely make use of the single pepper instead of other spices, although it must needs be granted, that the composed spices all together, must needs be more pleasing and Aromatick, than the pepper alone.
56. The manner how to make a Pastry-Cooks Varnishing stuff; with the which he gives his Pyes a Colour.
Beat together the yolkes and whites of egges, just as if you would make anomelet, or pan-cake; and in case you would have your Varnish to be strong and good, it will be sufficient to beat one white of an egge with two or three yolks; and on the contrary, in case you will have your Varish pale, you should only need to use the yolkes of egges, and beat them with water.
Now to make use of the aforesaid wash or varnish, take a few feathers, or a little pensil, or brush, either of silk or hogs brissels, which said brush or pensil, must be very soft; wet your said pensils or brissels in your wash or varnish, and so use it at your discretion, to wash or varnish your Pastrey-works.
Now in case you will not go to the charge of egges to make your wash or varnish, you may dissolve a little saffron, or marigold-flowers in milk; so likewise in Lent you may make use of the egs of a Pike or Jack for your wash or varnish, that being most proper for lent, having no relation to flesh.
One thing you must observe, that the Pastrie Cooks put honey in their washing or varnishing, for to spare egges.
Creames.
57. Clowted Creame.
Take two gallons of new milk from the cow, straine it into a clean Kettle, set it upon a trevet over a quick fire of chare-cole, and so soon as it boiles, put in three pints of sweet Cream, stirre it about, and take it off the fire so presently that it may not boile, after the Cream is in it; have ready milk-pannes set in straw, put forth the hot milk into them so fast as you can, and when you have filled your pans, if it be in the winter, after it hath stood awhile, till the reaking be past, cover them up close.
58. Another Creame.
Take sweet Cream and put it into a silver dish, set it upon a chafing dish of coales, and when it boiles, as the Cream riseth, [Page 50]take it off with a spoon, and lay it into a glasse bowle, till your bowle be full; and as you fill it, sprinkle it with Rose-water, and strain it with fine sugar.
59. Cold Creame.
Take a quart of milk as it cometh from the Cow, and put in it yolkes of egges raw, as many as you shall see fitting, and temper it together, then set them a chafing-dish of coales, alwayes stirring it, for fear of burning, and put sugar to it, and it will be like Creame of Almonds; and when it is boiled thick enough, sprinkle it with Rose-water, and cast sugar over it, so let it coole.
60. A Creame with French barley.
Take the third part of a pound of French barley, wash it well in fair water, and let it lie all night in fair water; in the morning, set two skillets on with fair water in the fire, and in one of them put your barly, and let it boile till the water look red, then put your water from it, and put the barley into the other warm water, then boile it with fresh warm water till it boile white, then straine the water clean from it, then take a quart of Creame, put into it a nutmeg or two quarte-red, a little sage, mace, and some sugar, and when your Creame is ready to boil, put your barley into it, and let them boile together [Page 51]about a quarter of an hour, and when it hath thus boiled, put into it the yolks of two or three egges well beaten, with a little Rose-water, then dish it forth; and eat it cold.
61. Almond Creame.
Take half a pound of Almonds blanched, stamp them very small with some cream, and then straine it into a skillet, and stirre it on a little fire till it begin to boile, then take it off, and season it with a little Rose-water, made very sweet with fine sugar, put it in your cream bowle, and eat it cold.
62. Cudgell'd Creame.
When your Cowes are new milkt, take two Gallons of that milk presently▪ while it is hot, powre it into two milk pans, stand up high, that it may run in a long stream, and so let it stand a day or a night, then scum it off as thick as you can, without much breaking; put it into what dishes you like, and, if you will, strow sugar on it.
63. A Butter Creame.
Take two gallons of good milk, and put to it a pottle of cream, set it on a clear fire and let it boile an houre, then powre it into the broad pans, and so let it stand two days, let it not be stirred, because the skinne may [Page 52]be broken, then take away the top of it off, as thick as you can, and work it together with a spoon, and [...]ay it in a China dish like a dish of butter, and strow a little sugar upon it.
64. A French Creame.
Take a pottle of new milk hot from the Cow, and put to it a gallon of sweet cream, put them into a fair earthen pan, and set it on a trivet, over a soft fire, of a certain heat, all day and all night, the warm embers to lay about it, lest it cool hastily and so be tough, this creame must never boile at all; And when you serve it out, cut it in great pieces, and lay them into a glasse bowle, and strow fine sugar upon it, and Rose-water, if you like it.
65. An Almond Custard.
Take a quarter of a pound of Almonds, a quart of sweet cream, boile your cream with a little large mace, & nutmeg; after it is boiled let it cool again, blanch your Almonds in cold water, then stamp them exceeding small, with a little Rose-water, and then strain them with the cream put to it, the yolks of eight egges well beaten, eight dates pickt, and minced small, one handful of Currans plumpt in boiling water, a good deal of sugar, and a little salt; put these into a dish, and bake it upon a pot of boiling water.
66. Sack Creame.
Take two quarts of sweet creame, set it on the fire in a clean skillet, and when it boiles, put in so much Canary sack, as will turn it like a posset, then put it forth into a boulter strayner, till all the whey be clean from it, then rubbe the Curd through a strayner into a clean dish, season it with Rose-water, and fine sugar; and if it be thicker than you would have it; then put some of the whey to it, that ranne from it: so serve it up in a cream bowle.
67. Codling Creame.
After your Codlings are throughly scalded and peeled, put them into a silver dish, and fill the dish almost half full of Damask-Rose-water, and put in halfe a pound of sugar; boile these together, still turning the Codlings in the liquor, till it be almost consumed, then fill up your dish with sweet cream, and when it hath boiled a little every where about the dish, then take it from the fire, strow sugar upon it, and eat it cold.
68. Creame with Apples.
Take a quart of cream, boile it with a little rosemary and thyme and a blade of mace; Then take some Apples, pare them, and slice [Page 54]them into claret wine, boyle them in the wine with a little Ginger, and a little Lemmon peele with Musk and Amber-greese, and sugar, when the Apples are boyled well, and cold again, put them to the cream.
69. Cream with Almonds.
Take three pints of Cream, boil it in a litle Rose-mary & Tyme, and take 2 good handfuls of Almonds blaucht in cold water, then stamp them with a spoonful of sack, strain them and boil them with the cream, put Amber-greece, musk and sugar to it.
70. Cream with Curds.
Take a quart of cream, boil it with nutmeg, mace, rose, mory, and tyme; Take it off the fire, put in a little sack and sugar, a little juice of Lemmons that it may a little quack it; stir it till it be a little cold, and when it is quite cold put it into a strainer and hang it up till the next day; then get pure thick cream, and boil it with some whites of eggs; mingle your whites well beaten, when your cream hath boiled, then set it on again, boil it till it be pretty thick, as you shall think fit for curds, sweeten it with sugar, Amber greece and musk.
71. For clouted Cream.
Take some three quarts of new milk, let [Page 55]it boil up, then put in some two quarts of Cream, as you doe for wilde curds, let this stand upon Embers all night, you may put this upon raw or boiled Cream, and then season it with sugar, if you will have it taste of mace or any other thing boil it in the milk.
72. A Trifle.
Take three pints of pure thick Cream, and boil it with cinamon, and nutmeg, and sugar; when it is boiled, keep it stirring till it be but blood-warm, then put in some rennet, and when you think good serve it.
73. Another clouted Cream.
Take rice, pick it and wash it very fair, and when it is dry, beat it till it come to fine flowre, then take Cream and Rose-water, and Sugar, and put of that flowre into it, and boil it till it be thick.
74. Thick Cream with Rice.
Take dried Rice and beat it fine and strain it with thin cream, and let it boil in a platter on a chafing-dish of coals till it be very thick, then season it with a little rose-water and sugar, and when you think it is thicke enough take it off, and when it is cold, serve it forth with two rowes in a dish.
75. A Trifle.
Take boiled Cream and Rose water and sugar, and a little rennet, and stew them together.
76. Snow.
Take Cream, Rose water and Sugar, and beat them together till they come to a froth, and then, &c.
77. To make Snow.
Take a quart of cream not too thick, beat it with a birchen rod with whites of Eggs in it, take off the snow as it rises till you have enough of it for a dish, boil some cream for the bottom, set a peny loaf in the bottom of it with a rosemarie sprig set in the midst, strow your snow at the top of it.
78. Clowted Cream.
Take three quarts of new milk and boil it with mace, a little Rosemary and Thyme, when it hath boiled enough take two quarts of cream, strow it all at top as you doe for wild curds; let this cream stand upon Embers till the morning: boil some sweet cream for the bottom; with sugar and what else you will, when it is cold lay your slacks of clouted Creame on the top, and strow Sugar upon it.
79. Apple Cream.
Boil six Pippins pared, (doe not cut the cores apieces) in Claret wine, a little more than will cover them, put in of sugar a good quantity, then boil a quart of good cream, with a little rosemary and thyme, sweeten it with sugar, one spoonful of sack, when they be cold put them together, lay your Apples like Eggs: Remember to boil in your Apples some ginger, lemmon pils very thin sliced.
80. White stuffe (of Cream.)
Take a pint of cream, seven whites of egs, one spoonful of flower, mingle these well together, set it on the fire, stir it till it growes thick, and strain it thorow a thick strainer, with rose water sweeten it: You must stir this till it be cold.
81. A Tansey (of Cream.)
Take a pint of cream and put to it the yolks of eight Egs and two whites well beaten, and half a pint of sack, a good deal of sugar, and nutmeg; mingle all these well together, and bake it in a frying pan with sweet butter, just as you doe another Tansey, and serve it on a Plate with a little sugar on the top of it.
82. Goos-berry Cream.
Take a quantity of Goos-beries, scald them and mash them, strain them through a strayner, then mingle them with your cream and sugar.
83. To make a Cream.
Take a pan of milke as it come from the Cow, and set it over the fire, and when it begins to rile, poure in some cream; and when it riseth again poure in more; and so do some sixe times, then take it and let it stand on nettres till next morning then take it off, and sprinckle rose water and sugar among it, and so serve it.
84. To make a Sullibub.
Take a quart of cream scalded, and let it be luke-warm, keeping it stirred: One pint of sack pretty hot, then spout it out as hard as you can, let this stand all night. In the morning take a froth made of thick creame sweetned with sugar, a little sack mingled with it, beat it with a spoon as it rises, put it into a Cullender, when milk is dreaned from it; lay this froth upon your sullibub as high as you can, froth it in a wooden tray new scalded and cold.
85. To make maggets (of Cream.)
Take a cheese new made, and somewhat stiffe; then take creame, and strain it through a strainer, and cast Sugar upon it.
86. A white pot.
Take a pint of cream and boil it and when it is cold, put to it four yolks of Eggs, and two whites well beaten, then put in it a little nutmeg, cloves, mace, and some sugar, and a little salt, then butter your dish, and strow in it the smallest marrow of a bone, then slyce the crumme of a loaf thinne, and lay one lay of bread, and one of raysins, and marrow, and so til the dish be full then poure on the cream, and stick the biggest of the marrow all over it, and some sliced dates, and so bake it.
88 To make Leach.
Take a quart of Creame, and a quartern of Almonds, and blanch them, and grinde them with some of your Creame; then take halfe an Ounce of whole Cinnamond, and halfe a quarter of an Ounce of large Mace, two Ounces of Izing glass; [Page 60]wash the Izing glass in many waters, and then let it lie and soake a quarter of an houre then boyle it in the Cream, put in sixe Ounces of Sugar, so boyle it till the Izing-glass bee consumed, when you have strained it; put thereto eight spoonfuls of Rose-water, then never leave stirring it till it be luke-warme, and when it is cold, cut it out in slices.
Cakes, White-pots, Puddings, and Almond-works, &c.
Almond-workes.
88. To make Almond Butter.
Take a pottle of the best sweet Cream, a pound and a half of Almonds beaten with rose water to a soft paste; then take three pints of water or more, with half a spoonful of Coriander seeds well boiled together, when it is cold strain out your Almonds with this water, getting the substance of the Almonds as much as you can, then mingle your cream with it, set it altogether upon a clear [Page 61]fire; when it is ready to boyl put in a little salt, and when it boyles up, seruch in some juyce of Lemmons all over it, not too much, but a little to curdle it: Then take it off the fire, let the Whay run through a thick cloth or napkin very softly, when it sticks something dry, tye it up round like a pudding, hang it upon a tack all night, then beat it with fine sugar and a little rose water; afterwards make dishes of it.
89. French stucklings.
Wet your crust with suct and butter, two yolkes of Egges and sugar; cut your Apples very smal, and season it with rose water, sugar, ambergreese and musk, rowl them very thin, and make them square.
90. To make Almond Puddings.
Take a quart of cream, and let it boyle on the fire, slice some manchet thin, poure your cream to your bread, and cover it close, then beat halfe a pound of Almonds very small with a spoonful of rose water, mixe them with your cream and bread slice some marrow or beef suet, then take the yolks of eight or ten egs, with three of the whites very well beaten, mixe these together, then grate one nutmeg, slice and not beat some Mace, sweeten it with Sugar, then fill [Page 62]your guttes, and boyle them.
91. To make Almond Cakes.
Take a pound of Almonds, three quarters of a pound of sugar, keep the other quarter which makes up the full weight to frie them, when your Almonds and sugar is beaten, as for march pane, drive out your paste unto Cakes, then lay them upon papers on a table, or with the lid of a baking-pan, bake them upon the upper side with embers and coals upon the lid: After which, then turn them on the other side, and harden that side, then take that other quartern of sugar, boyle it to a candy high, and with a fether Ice them over on the upper side, and set them under the pan again to harden: which being done, then Ice the other side, and harden them; and so eat them.
92. To make a Florentine with Almonds.
Take half a pound of rice boyled very tender, some Spinage par-boyled and beaten, half a dozen yolks of Eggs, mingle to it a little rose water, a little cinnamon butter, some Almond paste; mingle all these together, and make puff-paste for the bottom and top of it.
93. Eggs of Almonds.
Take a quart of thick Almond milk, of Izing-glass prepared, as for leech, and boyle them well together, until it will jelly, and stirre it well in the boyling; afterwards let it run through a strayner, and season the same with Sugar, (or Amber-greese and muske if you will) then take three or foure Egs, and let all the meat be put out at a little hole made in the top of the Eg-shel, then take the same milk of Almonds and fill the Egg-shels while it is warm, and so let the same abide there until the morrow, and then take a little quantity of the said meat when it is warm, and colour the same with whole saffron wrung through a linnen cloth, then slice your Eggs when they are cold the next morning through the middest, shels and all, then cut a round hole through the middest of the Egg where the yolk should be, and fill up the same with the coloured meat, and so serve them forth.
94. Mackaroones.
Take one pound of Almonds, lay them in cold water over night and blanch them, then take three quarters of a pound of fine sugar beaten, and put it to your Almonds; stamp them altogether small, with three spoonfuls of Rose water, to keep them from oyling, put [Page 64]the whites of four Eggs beaten till they are all in a froth, then put them to your sugar and Almonds, and so beat them together, then cast flower very thick upon Plates, and so drop them on as you please, your Oven being heat with a little more than halfe a baven set them into it. Try your Oven with a paper, when the Oven is shut up, if it doe not colour the paper.
95. To make a good Marchpane.
Take a pound of long smal Almonds, and blanch them in cold water, dry them as clean as you can, then stamp them as smal as you can, then strain them as smal as you can, and put no liquour to them, but as you must needs for oyling, and that liquour you put must be Rose water, in manner as you wet your pestel therein; for if you put too much liquour, they will be black, when you have beaten them fine, take half a pound of the finest Sugar you can get, or more finely beaten, then put it to your Almonds, and beat it altogether, when they be well beaten, take your wafers and cut them in compass round the bigness you will have your March-pane; and then as soon as you can, after you have tempered your stuff let it be put in your paste, and strike it abroad with a flat stick as even as you can, and pinch the [Page 65]very stuff as it were an egg set over, and put a paper under it, and set it upon a fair board and lay a fair Lattine bason over it, the bottom upwards, and then lay burning Coals upon the bottome of the bason to see how it baketh; if it happen to burn in any place, fould paper as broad as the place, and lay it thereon: and thus with attending, you shall bake it within a little more than a quarter of an houre, and when it is taken, put on your gold and bisket-sticks in Comfaits, and you shall have a good March-pane, or ever you bake it you must cast in fine sugar and rose water, that will make it look mealy.
To make all kinde of Conceipts of March-Panes, and Pies, Birds, Biskets, Collaps, and Egges, and some to Print with moulds.
Take half a pound of March-pane paste being made as before is written; for your March-pane make some little pies, and fill them with little pieces of marmate: Cast Biskets and Carrowayes on them, and so gild them, and serve them, and you may make some of them like Collaps of bacon, so that you colour your paste with a little red roset, and so lay a piece of red and white [Page 66]paste one upon another, then cut it into slices, and the red being mingled with the white, will shevv like interlarded bacon, fat and lean, and some you may print vvith moulds.
Puddings.
97, A Quaking-Puding.
Take a pint and a halfe of thick creame, boile it with a little mace, nutmeg quartered and ginger; then put to it the yolks of eight egges, and four whites beaten well; and a few Almonds stamped and strained with some of the creame, and a little Rosewater; Put in two spoonfuls of fine flower, and a little sugar, and a little salt: then take out the whole spice, and put the stuffe into a thick napkin, which must be first wet, and well rubbed with flower, boile it in the beef pot, or in the mutton broth.
98. A Pudding.
Take a two peny loaf white bread grated small, a pound of Beef-suet shred very small, half a pound of Almons blanched and beaten, then strain it out with a quart of cream, season it with a little nutmeg, ginger and sugar; put in the yolks of six egges, with two whites, then dip a napkin in melted butter, and lay it abroad; then take some twenty [Page 67]raisins of the Sun stoned and cut in halfes, so lay them on your napkin, then lay on your pudding, and tye it up, and boile it with your Beef.
98. A Plain Pudding.
Take a quart of new milk, boile it with a little whole mace, when it is almost cold, slice in it a two peny white loaf, the crust being cut off, when the bread is well soaked, bread it well in it, season it with nutmeg, sugar; rose-water, beef-suet shred small, the yolks of six or seven egges, not above two whites, a few whole raisins, currans, and dates.
100. Puddings of Neats Tongues.
Take 3 fresh Neats tongues tenderly boilled, and cut them in thick pieces, and beat them well in a morter, then take creame, marrow, suet, grated bread, currans, cloves, mace, nutmegs beaten, dates minced, egges beaten, rose-water, sugar, salt; mingle these well together, fill your guts, and boil them.
101. Black Puddings.
Take halfe a peck of great oat-meal, and put to it five quarts of new milk scalding hot, and so let it stand two nights and a day soaking there; take thyme, margerome, winter-savory: penny-royal, parsley, of each [Page 68]two good handfuls, half a handful of leeks; so season it with a little pepper, salt, fennel-seeds; to this quantity, you may take the blood of two sheep.
102. To make a Pudding.
Take cream, egges, and grated bread, and marrow; mingle them all together very stiffe, tye it flat up; when it is boiled, stick it with Almonds, cut them in long slender pieces.
103. To make a Pudding.
Take twelve pippins, boile them, and take the pap of them; and twelve egges, but six whites, and a manchet grated, a nutmeg, and some salt, and sugar; stirre it well, put in some melted butter, and bake it.
104. To make a Rice Pudding.
Take your Rice a pound being tenderly boiled in water, and then in milk, with some beef-suet, being shred small, a good quantitie of currans, of white bread, and three or six egges, with some cinnamon, and rosewater, nutmeg, salt, and sugar, if your rice he drie, put to them a little good milk.
EXPERPIMENTS IN SUGAR-WORKS.
Cakes.
105. Cheese-Cakes.
BOile a pottle of milk and a quart of creame together, and when it is cold, set it to come with Runnet, when it is come, whey it in a butter cloth very well, then breake it small with some good cream, put to it eighteen yolkes of egges, and two whites, put a good handful of grated bread to it, season it with nutmeg, mace, and sugar, and rose-water, with a little salt; when the paste is baked fit for it; then put in your stuffe, and strow upon it some currans halfe boiled, and so bake them, but not too drye, the crust must be somewhat deep.
106. Another way to make Cheese cakes
Take a quantity of the best curds you can make of stroakings and cream, after you have wheyed them very well, beat them in a morter, take almost the like quantity of Almonds blanched, and well beaten withrose water, for fear of oyling: mingle these together with a quantity of currans, four whites of egges, eight yolks well beaten; mingle all these together, with cream, sugar, and a little nutmeg; lay the meat thick in the Coffins, strow on the top of every of them, a little Ambergreese bruised with sugar enough: If you half-bake the Coffins first, it is best. For as soon as the meat begins to look never so little brown, they are enough.
107. To make dainty Pancakes.
Take an equal quantity of flower and grated bread, and half a dozen of egges, tataking out the whites of two only, and beat them very well, and season it as shall be fit; then mingle all together with a little fair water, and let the water be something thin, then take the quantity of a spoonful of suet melted, and moisten the frying-pan all over, then put in so much of the stuffe as will cover the bottome of the pan; that done, poure upon it the liquor seething hot, and hold it a little over the fire, and it will rise quickly, [Page 71]then turn it, and it will be instantly baked; when one is baked, poure out the liquor; and do as before, when you bake another, strow them with fine sugar, rose-water, and then serve them up.
109. To make Pancakes that shall be to Crispe, that you may rear them up an end.
Take a pint of fine flower, the yolks of of six egges, and the whites of two, make all this batter with a little warm water, & a litle sack, season it with a little cloves, mace and nutmeg, when you have made it into perfect batter, then make them in the least frying pan can you get, and bake them not too much then boile them in lard, as you do your frittars, and when you serve them, they will be as crispe as wafers, and will stand an end, and will be as yellow as gold.
110. To make Court-Frittars.
Take a pint of sack, and make a posset with sweet milk from the Cow, take the curd of that posset, and put it into a bason, with the yolks and whites of six egges, seasoned with a little nutmeg, and so beat with a birch rod, untill you have beaten the posset curd and egges well together, then put fine flovver to it, and make it a batter for your fritters, & then take clarified beef-suet, [Page 72]and boile them as you do common fritters, and they will eat most delicately, scrape suon them, and so serve them.
110. Another way.
Take a pint of very fine flower, and tvvo or three egges, boile them in sweet butter, as you do a hasty pudding, and when you have boiled your flovver, butter and egges in the form of a hasty pudding, then put it into a stone-morter and put to it the yolks of six egges, season it with a little nutmeg and sugar, and vvhen you have beaten these vvell in a morter, put it into a batter-spout that hath an Iron on the end like a mullet, or a crosse, so spout it out into your hot lard, and you may throvv it in knots in spouting, and vvhen they be boiled in lard, serve them vvith sugar scraped on them, they will eat most delicately, and they vvill marvail hovv you make them, because they come in knots, a plain batter-spout vvill make them.
111. To make Sugar-Cakes
To half a pound of sugar, six egges, six yolks, and one vvhite, a pound of butter vvashed, and laid all night in rosevvater, and so vvork in the flovver a little and a little, till they will roule, and butter the pots, and prick them, and bake them.
112. Cornish Bunnes.
Take halfe a peck of flower, a pound of Currants, and four peny-worth of Saffron, well dried and made small, a quart of scalded cream, and take the yolks of ten egges, and the whites of two, and beat them well together with the cream, with seven or eight spoonfuls of sack, and two or three spoonfuls of Rose-water, and a pretty deal of new Ale yest, and work all this together with butter, better then a quarter of a pound, and so much sugar; and when it is well moulded together, make it up in little Bunnes; and if it be too wet, you must adde more to it.
113. Cake Bread.
For half a peck of flowre, two pound of Raisins stoned, two pound of Currans, four grated nutmegs, half a score spoonful of good Ale yest; half a pound of sugar, as much fresh butter as will wet it; you must not make this Cake thick, mingle all your things together, keep out your Raisins, and when you have rowled out your Cake thin, you may make two or three Cakes of this quantity, then take your Raisins and stick them thick thus do some thrice, & so bake it.
114. Cakes with Lemmon pill.
Grate your finest Lemmon pill, and after you have boiled your double refined sugar to a Candy, put in a little of your said Lemmon pill, drop them forth in little Cakes. Adde to it Amber-greece, musk, &c.
115. Cake Bread.
Take one Gallon of flowre, two pound of Currans, and one pound of butter or better, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pint of Rose-water, halfe an ounce of nutmeg, & half an ounce of Cinnamon, two egs, then warm cream, break the butter into the flower, temper all these with the creame, and put a quantity of yest amongst it, above a pint to three gallons, wet it very lide, cover your Cake, with a sheet doubled, when it comes hot out of the Oven; let it stand one hour and a half in the Oven.
116. To make Bisket.
Take the yolks of two dozen of egges, two handful of Anniseeds, a little yest, one pound of butter, one quart of creame, foure pound of fine wheat flowre, work all these together in a paste, and make it up in long [Page 75]rouls being something flat, then lay them upon papers, and set them into the Oven and bake them, (but not throughly) then let them stand a day or two, then cut them into slices, and rub them over with small beaten sugar, then lay them upon papers, and set them into the Oven, untill they be hard.
117. To make Diar bread.
Take one pound of good loaf-sugar, and one pound of very fine flower, and one spoonful of Carraway-seeds, and mingle them together, then take six new laid egges, and take out of them one yolk or two according as they are in bignesse, then beat the egges first by themselves, then put them to the flower and sugar, and with a pestle beat it wonderfully for two houres, and when you are ready to set it into the Oven, strow a little fine beaten sugar upon it, to make it Glase, then butter the Plaits, and put it into your Oven being hot, as it is for Manchet.
118, To make Jumballs.
Take a pound of fine flower, a pound and a half of sugar beaten and searsed, six egs, taking away two egs, two or three spoonfuls of rose-water, two spoonfuls of cream. Put your egges, cream, and rose-water together, and [Page 76]put them over the fire, and stirre it till it be something hot, then mingle the flower and sugar, and that together, and make paste of it somewhat stiffe, then put in a pretty quantity of anniseeds being rubbed and fanned clean, and so make them up in Jumballs.
119. Another way of Jumballs.
To halfe a pound of sugar, eight egges, four yolks, as much butter as an egge, being washed in Rose-water, and fine flower as much as your own discretion shall see fit to make it a paste, and so work it, and knead it well together with an ounce of Anniseeds, and Coriander, so roule and make them up in knots, and butter the plats, and bake them, heat the Oven hot as for Manchet.
120. To make Naples bisket.
Take Almonds, and Pine-apple seeds, and kernels of Musk-millions, fine searced sugar, as much as all the seeds do weigh, then take a little fine basket flower, or else rice-flower, and as much of the white of an egge as will moysten it, and a little quantity of musk, a spoonful of sweet cream; beat all this well together in a morter, then lay it upon a pye-plate upon wafers, like lozinges, so bake it.
121. The first way for Prince Bisket.
Take a pound of sugar and a pound o flower, and put thereto 8 yolks and 4 white of egs, and as much sack as will make it ligh and easie to stir, and stir it with good strengt at least an houre, and after that put into it such a quantity of Anniseeds and Coleander seeds as shall be best pleasing unto you; stir it then some little time after the seeds be in for the indifferent wel mixing of them, and so put it into your coffins and bake them with a temperate fire, so as they may soak throughly within and without, and fill not the coffins too full.
An other way.
Take one pound of sugar fine beaten, a pound a dram of fine flower, then take twenty yolks of Egs well beaten, one Ounce, of Anniseeds well bruised, four spoonfuls of Rose water; you must put in your flower by little and little, and as you put it in, you must stir it very well or else it will clad, then take two sheets of clean white paper, and butter them with sweet butte, and pin them up at the four corners, and so make Coffins of them, put in the butter, and put under [Page 78]each Coffin a paper: you must trie the Oven with a piece of white paper, if it colour the paper much it is hot, and when the stuffe beginneth to come from the paper, you may take them out and cut them in slices, and lay the cut side down-ward and when they are dry on that side, you must turn them on the other, and let them lie in the Oven until the Oven be cold.
123. To make white Bisket bread.
Take a quarter of a pound of fine-flower, and three quarters of fine sugar, that is; three times as much sugar as flower, search the sugar fine, and take sixe yolks of Eggs, and three whites, and beat them well together, then put the sugar and the flower in a bason, and make a great hole in the middle, and put in the Egges in the hole, and with a ladle or a spoon, beat a little and a little the flower and the Egges together, and so continue beating the space of an houre at the least, then take a half penny-worth of Anniseeds, a pound of Coleander-seed, and beat them well together, and when you have so done put them in; then heat your Oven as hot as though you would bake manchet, and let it bake half an houre or more, and then take it out, and hold it in your hand; if it [Page 79]be not light, then it is not enough, then slice it with a knife and put it in the Oven on a gridiron, and a sheet of paper under it to keep it clean.
124. To make Prince Bisket.
Take a pound of flower, and a pound of fine searsed sugar, and eight Egges and three whites and six spoonfuls of sweet Cream put into it, and so beat all these same in a wooden bowl with a wooden pestle or ladle; and when it is beaten an houre, put into it an ounce of Anniseeds, being rubbed dried and dusted, and when you are ready to fill your coffins put in your seeds, and when you have filled your coffins, bake it in an oven one half houre, if you will make Craknels to drink wine withal, take your Potters moulds which you doe commonly print your Quindinak withal, and indove them over with a little melted butter, and so poure your butter into the moulds as thin as you can, and so bake them in an oven: and when you see that they be baked, then take them out of the moulds and lay them upon sheets of white paper, and so let them dry in an oven one half houre, until you see they be as dry as Craknels, and if you please you may use them, and so you [Page 80]may boxe them, and keep them all the year.
125. To make French Bisket.
Take half a peck of fine flower, two or three spoonfuls of Ale-yeast, the yolk of two or three egges, a piece of sweet butter, and so make it up for perfect paste, as thick as for manchet, and all things as stiffe, with warm-water as you do with manchet, then make it up in a long loafe, and bake it in an Oven, and when it is a day old, pare and slice it in Cakes, then rub it with powder sugar, and so dry it in the Oven again upon a lattine of wire, or basket-makers rods, and when it is very dry and hard, then rub it over with white powder sugar again; then you may boxe it and keep it all the year.
126. To make Biskatellc.
Take a quarter of a pound of double refined sugar, being beaten and finely searsed with two grains of Musk one grain of Civet, one grain of Amber-greece; beat all these to a perfect paste, with a little Gum-dragon steeped in rose water and the white of an eg: all these being beat to a perfect paste, make [Page 81]it up in little loaves of the fashion of a manchet, so bake them in an oven every of them in a wafer, and so bake them in an oven, and when you see them rise your white and hight, then take them out of the oven, and they will be as white as snow, and as light a puffe, and when they be through dry, you may box them and keep them all the year.
127. To make Wafers.
Take Rose-water or other water, the whites of two egs and beat them and your water, then put in flower, and make them thick as you would do butter for fritters, then season them with salt, and put in so much sugar as will make them sweet, and so cast them upon your irons being hot, and roule them up upon a little pin of wood; if they cleave to your irons, put in more sugar to your butter, for that will make them turn.
128. To make a Carroway Cake.
Take half a peck of fine flower, and kneed it with some warm water, a little salt and some ale-yest that is not stale as you do your manchet, take the whites of three egs, and kneed them in your dowe, and lay it to the fire to rise, then add a quantity of a pounds of butter, and then kneed it as fast as you can, [Page 82]with a great care it be not too stiffe, put no flower in the kneeding of your butter and egs, then take a piece of your dough for a lid, for your cake, then spread the rest and put in a pound of Carroway comfits, then make it to a thin cake, fashion it as you please, and put on your lid, that is, a peece of paste rowled thin, put over your cake, put it in the oven for an hour and a half: this eats well cold, and very pleasant.
129. To make fine Cakes in the form of rings.
Take a quart of fine flower, an ounce of Colliander-seed, one ounce of Anniseeds, a good piece of liquorish, half a pound of sugar, two new laid egs, new milke to wet it withal, being warmed, and so make boughts in the form of rings.
130. To make sugar Cakes.
Take a pound of flower, half a pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar, and as many egs as will wet it, take so many whites according to the proportion of the yolks.
All kind of Sugar-works.
131. To make paste-Royall white, formed into Cotes, Bowles, and drinking-cups, Gloves, Slippers, or any other pretty Conceipts, printed with Moulds.
Take halfe a pound of double refined sugar, beat it fine; and searce it through a fine lawne Ceatse, then put it into a fine Alabaster Morter, with a little Gum-dragon steeped in Rose-water, and a grain of musk, and beat them in a morter, untill it come to perfect paste, then roule it thin with a rowling pin, and print it with your moulds, some like Gloves, Slippers, and other pretty Conceits, as your Moulds are, and some you may roule very thin, and let them drye in an ashen dish, or otherwise called a court cup, and let it stand in the dish untill it be dry, and it will be like a cup, you must dry them on a board farre from the fire, but you must not put them into an Oven, they will be drye in three or four houres, and be as white as snovv, then you may guild them and box them, and keep them all the year.
132. To cast all kind of standing conceipts in Sugar-works.
Take a pound of double refined sugar, and boyle it to a Candie heigh, with as much Rose-vvater as vvill melt it, then your double moulds, being vvatered two houres, first powre the sugar into those moulds, and when it is cold, you may take them out, and they will be birds, or beasts, according to your moulds, this standing conceipt, you may garnish your March pane with.
133. To cast all kind of fruits hollow into turned works, to put them into their natural colours, as Oranges e mmons, Cowcumbers, Radishes, Apples, or Peares.
Take your moulds, being made of Allabastar, every mould being in two pieces, your moulds being watered, and the sugar being boiled to a Candy heigh, fill the one half of the mould with the hot sugar, and turn the mould round about in your hand, and the fruits will be hollow.
134. To make paste of flowers and Colour of Marble, that which way soever you break it, it shall be like Marble, and betwixt the light, it shall look very clear, and shall in eating taste of he natural flowers.
Take all sorts of pleasant flowers, as violets, Cowslips, Roses, Gilly-slowors, Mary-golds, or any other pleasant flowers, and beat them in a morter every flower by it self, with sugar, untill the sugar be turned to the Colour of the slowers, then put a little gum-dragon to the beating thereof and so beat it out into a parfect paste, and when you have made six pieces of paste of several colours with them, every flower, will taste of his nature, then rowl your paste thin, and lay every piece of paste one upon another in mingling sort; then roule your paste into a small rowle as bigge as your finger, then cut it into little pieces overthwart, as big as small nuts, then rowle them thin, that you may see through them; dry them before the fire, and when they be drye, you may box them, and keep them all the year.
135. To make paste of Eglantine the Colour Amber-Corrall.
Take the Reddish berries that grow upon the bryers, before they be too ripe, and cleave them in the middest, and take the seeds out of them, and scrape them very clean, and boyle them very tender in Clarret wine, and Rose-water, then strain them, and dry them upon a Chaffing-dish with coals, untill they be reasonable dry, and when it is cold, work it upon the paste with fine sifted sugar, then roule it thin, then roule upon swans quills, and small reeds, then dry them before the fire, and when they be somewhat dry, you may box them, and keep them all the year, and they will look of the colour of Currol.
136. To make paste of Elicampane.
Take your Elicampane his smallest young roots, and boyle them reasonable tender, then peel and pith them, then beat them in a morter, take twice as much sugar as that pulp doth weigh, and boyle it to a Candie height, with as much Rose-water as will melt it, then put your pulp of Elicampane into your sugar, with the pap of a pippin, and so let it boyle together, untill you see it almost for Marmalade, then drop it into [Page 87]drops on a pye-plate, or a sheet of Glasse, and so dry it in the stove, then you may keep it all the year; it is an excellent paste against the cough of the lungs.
136. To make Canded Cakes of plums.
Put your Plums into a pot, and paste it up close, then set it into a pot of water, and let it boyle a good while, then strain forth the juice from the plums, and weigh it with sugar ready beaten, let them be of equal weight, then put a little water into the sugar, and boyle it untill it comes to be sugar again; then put in the juice of your plums, and stirre it till all your sugar is melted, then poure it into your glasses, and when it is cold, set them where they may stand very warm, and when they begin to Candy on the top, make them loose about the sides of the glasse with a knife, and turn them forth upon glasse plates, and so let them drye.
137. To make Paste of Joyne the true way, as they do beyond the Seas.
Take two pound of yellow Pear-Quinces, and two pound of Peaches, par-boyle them reasonable tender, and when they be cold, pare them, and scrape all the pulp from the Coare, then bray it in a stone-morter, with a [Page 88]wooden pestle, then draw it throughout a piece of thin Cushion Canvise, then take as much sugar as it weigheth, and boyle it to a Candie height, with as much Rose water as will melt your sugar, put off your Quinces and Peaches into your sugar, and so let them boyle a litle, then fashion it on a pye-plate, or on a sheet of glasse, and so put them into an Oven after you have baked bread, or into a stove, and there let them remain a day and a night, the next day turn it, and warm your Oven a little, and in like sort warm your Oven or Stove untill they be through drye, then you may box them, and keep them all the year.
138. To make paste of Pippins, some like leaves, some like plums, with stalks, and stones, some white plums, and some red, and green.
Take two pound of Pippins, being pared and cut in pieces, then boyle them tender, and strain them, then take as much sugar as the pulp doth weigh, and boyle it to a Candie height, with as much Rose-water, as will melt your sugar, and when your sugar is boyled to your full Candie height, then put in your pulp of Pippins, and, and let it boyl awhile together, then fashion them on a pye-plate, some like leaves, and some like half-fruits, [Page 89]and drye them in an Oven, after you have drawne bread, the next day, turn them all close, your half-plums together, and put plum stones between them, and stalks in the middle of them, then put them into your Oven or Stow, untill they be full dry; then you may box them, and keep them all the year, and they will look like natural green plumes, if you will have your plums look green, you must make your paste when your Pippins be green, if you will have your Pippins look red, you must put a little Conserve of Barberries amongst your Pippin-stuff, for that will colour them red, and make them have a pretty sharp taste, and you may make it all the year, if you keep the stuffe in Gally-pots, as thin as starch stuffe, and so that you season it with sugar; you may keep it for tart stuffe, whether you make it of Pippins, Pears, or Plums.
139. To make Paste of Apricocks, or white Peares, or Plums.
Take your Apricocks, or Pear-plumes, pare them, and stone them, then boyl them tender betwixt dishes on a Chaffing-dish of Coales, and when it is cold, lay it on a white paper, and take as much sugar as it weighes, and boyle it to a Candie height, with as [Page 90]much Rose-water as will melt the sugar, then put your pulpe of your Apricockes or Peare-plums into your hot Sugar, and let it boyl very leisurably with stirring of it until you see it somewhat stiffe, then sashion it upon a Plate like half Apricocks, the next day close the halfes together, and put an Apricock stone between them, and when they be dry they will look as clear as Amber, and eat farre better than the Apricock it self; when the skin is on, and when they be full dry, you may box them and keep them all the year.
140. To make paste of Goose-berries, printed Ras-berries, or English Currans.
Take any of these tender fruits, boyl them tender on a chafing-dish with coales, then strain them with a papp of a rosted Pippen, then take as much sugar as its weight, and boyl it to a Candie height, with as much Rose water as will melt it, then put in the pulp of your fruits into the hot sugar, and so let it boyl leasurably until you see it somewhat stiffe, Almost as stiffe as for Marmalade, then fashion it upon a sheet of glasse, and so put it into an Oven upon a couple of billets, that the glass may not touch the bottome [Page 91]of the Oven; for if it doe, your paste will be tough; therefore raise your glasse from the bottome of the Oven upon billets or round sticks, and so let it dry leisurably, and when it is through dry, you may box it and keep it all the year.
141. To make Paste of Oranges, and Lemmons.
Take your Oranges and Lemmons, and boyl them tender, and shift them in the boyling, to take away the bitterness of them, you having two vessels of fair water on the fire, shifting them out of one water into another, then they will be tender, and their bitterness taken away from them, then cut them in the middest, and take out their Kernels, then stamp them in an Alabaster morter, with the pappe of three or foure rosted Pippins, to every pound of Oranges or Lemmons, take six Ounces of your pap of Pippens, then strain it through a fine strainer, then take as much sugar as the pulp doth weigh, being boyled to a Candee height, with so much Rose-water as will melt your sugar, then put your pulp of your Oranges or Lemmons into your hot sugar, and so let it boyl leasurably with stirring it; and when you [Page 92]see it stiffe as Marmalade, then fashion it upon a sheet of glass, or on a Pie plate, and so stewe it in an Oven as you doe all other Paste, and when it is dry, you may boxe it and keep it all the year.
142. To make Paste-Royal of Spices.
Take sugar the quantity of foure Ounces being beaten very fine and put into an Ounce of Cynnamond and Ginger, and a grain of Muske, and beat it into Paste, with a little Gum-dragon steeped in Rose-water, and when you have beaten it into a Paste in a stone morter, then roul them and print them with your moulds, then dry it before the fire, and when it is through dry, you may box it, and keep it all the year.
143. To make Muskadine Comfits.
Take two Ounces of double refined sugar being beaten and finely searsed, with a grain of Muske, a grain of Civet, and a grain of Amber-grease, and beat all these together to a perfect Paste, then roule them [Page 93]thin that you may see your knife through them, then cut them in smal pieces square like Lozanges, then dry them before the fire two houres, then box them and keep them all the year.
THE BEST WAY OF PRESERVING, &c. Of Preserves.
144. To preserve Apricocks the best way.
TAke your Apricocks dry gathered from the tree before they be ripe, pare them thin, and take the stones out of them, take a pint of fair water, and a handful of the parings, let it boyl a while, then take to every pound of Apricocks half a pound of sugar, then take it off the fire, and take out the parings, then let it stand till it setts, take half a [Page 94]pint or less of the clearest, and put the sugar to it in a silver pot over the fire to boyle, crack the stones, take the kernels and peel them, when your syrrop hath boyled almost to the height of a syrrop, take it off the fire, put in your Apricocks and the Kernels, so let it boyl softly at the first, and after faster, and scum it often; and when you must stir it, then take the pan between your hands and shake it, for a spoon will break them; and when you find they are boyled take them off: then take them out of the syrrop as dry as you can, so put the Kernel within them, and lay them in your glasses, those that are most broken, lay them in pots; then take your syrrop and boyl it to a jelly very fast, so put it to them.
145. How to Candy Eringoes, Probatum.
Take your Eringoe Roots that will bend every way, let the biggest of them be hardly so big as your little finger; wash them very clean and boyl them in pure water not very tender, but as you may feel the pith, then drean the water from them, and slice one side of every root long wayes clean through as smooth as you can. Then spread it a little and take out the pith. Afterwards, scrape the thine off tenderly of the other side [Page 9]when it is clean from the pyth and rhyne, as you have done them, put them in fair water, and when they are all done, wring them hard out of the water, and either bread them or roul them and tye them with thread at the ends, then weigh to every pound of Eringoes, one pound and a half or more of pure fine sugar, beat half or more of your sugar, wet the weight of your roots: As for a Candy of Rose water, boyl this on the fire; and when it is almost sugar again, put a little more Rose water: thus doe three or four times when your sugar is very well boyled, put in the roots, and with a spoon put the liquor still on the top of them, often turning them, within a little while after the roots are in, boyle them apace, put in at several times the remainder of your sugar in good big pieces, let that melt in liquor, still keep your roots turned, when they are enough, they will look clear, then take them out of the liquor, this liquor you may put to fresh roots, lay those several upon a wicker, and cover them with a paper, as soon as ever they are stiffe, put them close in a box.
146. How to Candie Oranges, Probat.
Chuse the fairest Oranges well coloured, cut them in half, and take out the meat, [Page 98]then put them in fair water three or foure dayes, shifting their waters, pare them as thin as you can, still putting them in water, as you do them. Then weigh as much faire water as Oranges, so likewise weigh as much sugar that is pure fine, make your syrrupe with the water and sugar, when it is boyled and scummed, put in your Oranges, which must be half boyled before. Cover Oranges close, let them boyle a good while, then take some more sugar, something more than a-handful, and strow all a top of them, covering them close again, and when they have boyled, that they loke clear, take them out of the syrrop, put them in a fair dish one by another, then with a spoon fill the halfs with some of the syrrop, then cover them close till the next day, then take the weight of them in sugar again, wet that sugar with some of the former syrrop: And set it over the fire, when it boiles and is throughly melted and scummed, put in your Oranges in this fresh liquour: Let them but simper, when you see it comes up at top all like a Candy, poure them out in a dish as fast as you can turn all your Oranges the bottoms upward, the yellow side up, then sift sugar thick upon them, cover them close to keep in the steem. This doe as fast as you can after half an houre if the Candy be pretty thick, then take them forth, put them one [Page 99]by one upon a Plate, the yellow side up ward, cover them with a paper, set them before the fire but not too near till they be dry, then keep them close in a box.
147. To make Quindiniacks of Ruby colour to print with moulds.
Take two pounds of Pippins pared and cut in small pieces, put them into a pipkin, with as much fair water as will cover them; and when they be boyled tender, strain all the liquid substance from them; into every pint of that liquor, put half a pound of sugar; so let it boyl leasurably until it come to the colour of Claret being close covered; then uncover it and let it boyl as fast as it can till you see it be as thick as a jelly, you shall know when it comes to his thickness, by seeing a drop on the back of a spoon like stiffe jelly, and then take it off the fire, and cool it a little, then pour it into your moulds: If the moulds be made of Wood, you must boyl their moulds first, and if they be made of Tin, you need but wet them, and when your jelly is cold, take them upon a wet trencher, and so convey them in your boxes, so keep it all the year.
148 To make Quindiniackes of an Apricocke Colour with moulds that you may make them all the year.
Take Pippins being pared, and cut all to pieces, and boyle them tender in fair water, then wring out all the liquid substance from them, to every pint of that liquor, put tenne Ounces of fine Sugar, and so let it boyle as fast as you can, and when you see it stand upon the back of a spoon like your foresaid jelly then print it with your moulds, putting in a little more Sugar into every white, then into your red, and boyling a space uncovered, doth procure it to be white, for the close covering and the lasie boyling doth make it red, that is all the difference in colour.
149 To preserve Grapes.
Take the Grapes when they be almost through ripe, and cut the stalkes off, and stone them in the side; and as fast as you can stone them, Strew Sugar on them; you must take to every pound of Grapes, three quarters of a pound of Sugar: then take some of the soure Grapes, and wring the juyce of them, and put to every [Page 101]pound of Grapes two spoonefuls of Juyce, then set them on the fire, and still lift up the Panne, and shake it round for feare of burning too; then set them on again, and when the Sugar is melted, boyle them as fast as you can possibly, and when they looke very cleare, and the Syrrup somewhat thicke, they are enough.
150 To preserve Pippins, Apricockes, Pears, Plums or Peaches green.
Take your Pippins green, and quoddle them in faire water; but let the water boyle first before you put them in, and you must shift them in two hot waters before they will be tender; then pull off the skin from them, and so case them in so much clarified Sugar as will cover them, and so boyle them as fast as you can, keeping them from breaking: then take them up and boyle the Syrrup, untill it be as thicke as for quiddonie, then pot them, and poure the Syrrop into them before they be cold, &c.
Take your Apricocks and Pear-plummes, and boyle them tender, then take as much Sugar as they doe weigh, and take as much water as will make the Syrrop, take [Page 102]your green Peaches before they be stoned, and thrust a pin through them; and then make a strong water of Ashes, and cast them into the hot standing Lye to take off the Furre from them, then wash them in three or foure waters warme: So then put them into so much Clarified Sugar as will Candie them: So boyle them, and put them up.
151. The best way to preserve Cherries.
Take the best Cherries you can get, and cut the stalks something short, then for every pound of these Cherries, take two pound of other Cherries, and put them of their stalkes and stones, put to them ten spoonfuls of fair water, and then set them on the fire to boyle very fast, till you fee that the colour of the syrrup be like pale Claret wine, then take it off the fire, and draine them from the Cherries into a pan to preserve them in, take to every pound of Cherries, a quarter of sugar, of which take halfe and dissolve it with the Cherry-water, drained from the Cherries, and keep them boyling very fast, till they will gelly in a spoon, and as you fee the syrrup thin, take off the sugar, that you kept finely beaten, and put it to the Cherries in the [Page 103]boyling; the faster they boyle the better they will be preserved, and let them stand in a pan till they be almost cold.
152. To preserve Oranges the French way.
Take twelve of the fairest Oranges, and best colored, and if you can get them with smooth skins they are the better, and lay them in Conduict water six dayes and nights, shifting them into fresh water morning and evening, then boyle them very tender, and with a knife pare them very thin, rub them with salt; when you have so done, Core them with a Coring-Iron, taking out the meat and seeds; then rub them with a dry cloth till they be clean, and to every pound of Oranges, a pound and a half of sugar, and to a pound of sugar, a pint of water, then mingle your sugar and water well together in a large skillet or pan, beat the whites of three egges, and put that into it, then set it on the fire, and let it boyle till it rises, and strain it through a Mapkin; then set it on the fire again, and let it boyle till the Syrup be thick, then put in your Oranges and make them seeth as fast as you can, now and then putting in a piece of fine loaf sugar the bignesse of a Walnut, when they have boyled near an hour, put into them a pint of Apple-water; then boyle them apace, and half a pint of white-wine, this [Page 104]should be put in before the Apple water, when your Oranges are very clear, and your Syrrrup so thick, that it will jelly (which you may know by setting them to cool in a spoon) when they are ready to be taken off from the fire; then put in the juyce of eight Lemmons warm into them, then put them into an earthen pan, and so let them stand till they be cold, then put every Orange in a several glasse or pot; if you do but six Oranges at a time, it is the better.
153. To preserve green Plums.
The greatest wheaten plum is the best, which will be ripe in the midst of July, gather them about that time, or later, as they grow in bigness but you must net suffer them to turne yellow, for then they never be of good colour; being gathered, lay them in water for the space of twelve houres, and when you gather them, wipe them vvith a clean linnen cloth, and cut off a little of the stalkes of every one, then set two skillets of water on the fire and when one is scalding hot, put in your plums, and take them from the fire, and cover them, and let them rest for the space of a quarter of an hour, then take them up, and when your other skillet of water doth boyle, put them into it, let them but stay in it a very little while, and so let the other [Page 105]skillet of water wherein they were first boyled be set to the fire again, and make it to boyle, and put in your plums as before; and then you shall see them rivet over, and yet your plums very whole, then while they be hot, you must with your knife scrape avvay the rivetting, then take to every pound of plums, a pound and two ounces of sugar finely beaten, th [...]n set a pan with a little faire water on the fire, and when it boyles put in your plums, and let them seeth half a quarter of an houre till you see the colour wax green, then set them off the fire a quarter of an hour, and take a handful of sugar, that is weighed, and strovv it on the bottom of the pan, wherein you will preserve, and so put in your plums one by one, drawing the liquor from them, and cast the rest of your sugar on them, set the pan on a moderate fire, letting them boyle continually, but very softly, and in three quarters of an houre they will be ready, as you may perceive by the greennesse of your plumbs, and thicknesse of your Syrup; which if they be boyled enough, will jelly when it is cold: then take up your plums, and put them into a gally pot, but boyle your Syrup a little longer; then strain it into some vessel, and being blood warm, poure it upon your plums, but stop not the pot before they be cold; note also you must [Page 106]preserve them in such a pan, as they may lye one by another, and turn of themselves, and when they have been five or six dayes in the Syrup, that the Syrrup grovv thin, you may boyle it again vvith little sugar, but put it not to your plums, till they be cold; they must have three scaldings, and one boyling.
154. To preserve Damsins, or Red Plums, or Black.
Take your Plums nevvly gathered, and take a little more sugar than they do weigh, then put to it as much vvater as vvill cover them, then boyle your Syrrup a little while, and so let it cool; then put in your Damsins or Plums, then boyle them leisurely in a pot of seething water, till they be tender, then being almost cold, put them up.
155. To make Marmalet of Oranges, or Orange Cakes.
Take the yellowest and fairest Oranges, and water them three days, shifting the water twice a day, pare them as thin as possibly you can, boyle them into a water changed five or six times, untill the bitternesse of the Orange be boyled out, those that you preserve must be cut in halfe, but those for [Page 107]Marmalet must be boyled whole, let them be very tender, and slice them very thin on a Trencher, taking out the seeds, and long strings, and with a knife make it as fine as the pap of an Apple, then weigh your pap of Oranges, and to a pound of it, take a pound and an half of sugar, then you must have Pippins boyled ready in a skillet of fair water, and take the pap of them made fine on a trencher, and the strings taken out, but take not half so much Pippins as Oranges; then take the weight of it in sugar, and mix it both together in a silver or earthen dish, and set it on the coales to dry the water out of it (as you do with Quince Marmalet) when your sugar is Candy height, put in your stuffe, and boyle it till you think it stiffe enough, stirring it continually; if you please, you may put a little musk to it.
156. Conserve of Pomegranates.
Take a Pomegranate and press it, to take out the juice, then put it on a silver plate, and dry it on a small fire, or on some warm sinders, seeth your sugar untill the plume or skin appear, and more then others; after it, is well sodde, take it off the fire, and whiten it, then put your juice in it, and take out your Conserve.
157. How to make Marmalet of Apples.
Take ten or twelve Apples, pare them and cut them, as far as the core, and put them into clear water, then take the Apples, and the water wherein they do steep, and half a pound of sugar, or less if you will; powre them into a pan, seeth them; as they seeth, crush them least they should burn, and when there is almost no water, strain all through a straining five, take what you have strained, and put it in the same again, with the grating of halfe a Lemmon or Orange, before steeped abovea quarter of an houre in some warme water; and strained through a linnen cloth; for to know, and take out the bitternesse of it; as they seethe, stirre alwayes, least your Marmalet do burne, you may know when it is sod, when it is as in a Gelly, and sheweth lesse moystness; and when it is as it ought to be, take it off the fire, and spread it with a knife the thickness of two halfe Crownes.
158. How to make the Marmalet of Orleance.
Take fifteen pounds of Quinces, three pounds of sugar, and two quarts of water, boyle altogether; after it is well sodde, drain it by little and little through a Napkin, and take out of it what you can, then put your decoction in a bason with four pounds of sugar; seethe it; for to know when it is enough, try it on a plate, and if it come off, take it quickly from off the fire, and set it up in boxes, or somewhat else.
159. To Preserve Raspesses.
Pick clean the fairest Raspesses, and take their bare weight in loaf-sugar, which must be finely beaten, and strow a layer of sugar in the bottome of the Skillet, or China dish, and then a layer of Raspes, and so three or four times double, and crush some juice of other Raspesses, all over them, and set them on a soft fire, till the sugar be melted, often shaking them; then let them have a quick fire, and let them boyle some five walmes every time they boyle up, shaking of them, and in so many boyles they will be enough.
160. To make Quindiniacke of Quinces.
Take your Quinces, pare them and cut them in quarters and boyle them; to every two pounds of Quinces take three quarts of Spring water to them, and so boyle them very tender, then wring all the liquid substance from them, and to every pint of that liquor put half a pound of Sugar, and so let it boyle leasureably till it come to his colour and thickness, then print it with your moulds, and so you may box it and keep it all the year.
161. To make Quendiniackes of Gooseberries, Ras-berries, or English Currnas.
Take your Goos-berries, Ras-berries, or English Currans; put them into a stone pot with a narrow mouth; so put them into a stone pot of seething water, otherwise called Balneum E N. Let them boyle until they be tender, then poure away the liquid substance from them, and to every pine of liquor, put half a pound of Sugar, and so let it boil until it come to his colour, and thickness, then print it with your moulds, then boxe it and you may keep it all the [Page 111]year. This is the way to make Quindiniacke of all sorts of Plums whatsoever, but you must draw the quintesence and spirit out of them, for they are of a stronger body than the other fruits, and therefore they must have water, and that will make them to run clearer through your strainer before you can put your sugar unto it.
162 To Preserve Quinces.
Take Quinces and weigh them, core and pare them, then take for every pound of Quinces a pound of Sugar; then take Quinces and grate them and strain them; for every pound half a pint af the juyce of the Quinces, and half a pint of fair water; the water, and sugar, and syrrop must be first boyled and clean skimmed, then put in, your Quinces and turn them still to keep the colour of them: then let them boyl so till the Quinces be tender, they must seethe very softly, for fear of breaking; and ever as the scumme ariseth, you must take it off with a feather.
163. To Preserve Quinces red.
Take fair yellow Quinces, pare and core them, and put them into a preserving pan, with as much clarified Sugar as will cover them; every pound of Sugar must be clarified [Page 112]with Ale, a pint of fair water; and let them boil close covered very leisurably, now and then turning them to keep them from spotting, and taking off the scumm with the back of a spoon; and when you see them very tender and red, take them up and cover them, and let your syrrop stand acooling; and when your syrrop is cold, put them in, and they will lie in a jelly, and so you may keep them all the year.
164. To Preserve Quinces white.
Take faire Pear-Quinces and core them, but not pare them, then par-boyl them in fair water reasonable tender; then take them and let them stand a cooling, when they be through cold pare them and throw them in your Sugar, being clarified as you pare them: so let them boyl till they be tender, then take them up and let your syrrop stand till it be cold; then you may pot your Quinces, and keep them all the year.