CHAP. 1.

THe first and principall care which they ought to take, who would have store of Plants, and those faire, is, to have Nurseries of their own, in which they may bring up Trees wherewith to plant their Gar­dens: it being certain, that Trees taken from such domestick Nurseries, thrive much better then others procured from abroad; because that being replanted presently after they have been taken up, [Page 2] and meeting with earth of the same na­ture with that, to which they have been accustomed, they doe thereby grow a­gain with the greater facility: where­as, on the contrary, Trees brought from afar off are alwayes much changed in the transportation, their roots often battered and spoyled, and run a hazard of being hurt by Frosts; so that they grow again with much more difficulty, and ordinarily a great number of them die. Besides that, it is a great advantage to a Planter to be assured of the good­nesse of his Trees, and of the kinde of their Fruit; and by that meanes to a­voyd the displeasure which often-times befalls those that buy, of being forced to re-plant new Trees, or to graffe again such as they have bought, when they might have expected to enjoy their fruit. To which may also further be added, that such as bring not up Nurseries of their own, cannot make large Plantations without great cost.

Some judge it more advantagious to take such Trees as have been brought [Page 3] up in a dry and barren soyle to replant them in a better, than to chuse them from a good Ground: being perswaded that these thirsty trees meeting with a fresh Earth, doe immediately perceive that change, and spring with the greater vigour; But, Reason and Experience teach us, that Trees brought up in a hungry ground, finding but little nou­rishment there, doe likewise put forth but few roots, and can therefore have but a small growth of body, and that yellowish and mossy; And al­though they be afterwards replanted in an excellent soyle, having but few Roots they are not capable of drawing aboun­dantly that good nourishment which there they meet with, and consequently of growing to any purpose. Besides that, their barke being already dry and wi­thered for want of nourishment, by rea­son of that small moysture which they found in that barren ground, cannot easi­ly receive the sap when it begins to as­cend into the branches: On the contra­ry, Experience lets us see that Trees ta­ken [Page 4] from a good ground, have alwayes good store of Root, the body strong and vigorous, and that when they are re-planted in a soyle as good (be it by Na­ture or Art) they doe take againe very easily, and sprout with great force.

CHAP. II.

TO make a good Nursery, care must be had especially of three things: The first is, To choose good Plants: The second, to place it in a good soyle: And the third, to dresse it well; because the want of either of these three, renders the two others useless.

To bring up a Nursery of Pear-trees & Pommiers France, that is, Apple-trees as are not wild. Apple-trees for High-standers, and proper for the producing of large Trees, you must choose Peare and Apple-stocks of one years growth one­ly: These come of the kernels of those [Page 5] fruits, which to that end must be sowne in March upon beds of earth well pre­pared after the same manner that Gar­diners sow their seeds. These kernels so sowne and weeded during the Sum­mer, wil put forth a twig strong enough to be planted in a Nursery the Winter following: The way to procure such ker­nels with ease, is to sift the huskes or remainder of Apples and Pears, when the Perry and Sider is pressed from them: But without taking this trouble, you may buy, or cause to be brought, out of Normandy, both these sorts of Plants already grown, where they sow great quantities of them. The best Plant to graff such Apple-trees upon, as you would have to grow against a wall, in Pallisades or Hedges, and such as you desire to keep low for dwarf-trees, is that of the A kind of Cod­ling. Paradise-Apple-tree, which grows but little into wood, bears quickly and much fruit. These kindes of Plants are brought up of spriggs, or cuttings, put into the ground, as also those of Quince-trees, [Page 6] whereof I shall speak hereaf­ter.

The Diulcain. Sweeting is another kind of Apple-tree, which comes very near to that of the Paradice-Apple, and which likewise grows from a sprig; but the Plant of it is not good for this purpose, because it growes too much into wood, and cannot be kept low, as a dwarf or shrub.

To graff such Pear-trees upon, as are proper to be planted against a wall, & Contr' e­spallier, properly such a hedge as is planted over a­gainst a wall on the other side of the walk. in hedges, or to be kept low for Dwarf-standers, the Plant of a Quince-tree proves the best, because the Quince is naturally of a dwarfish sta­ture, and may very easily be kept low. Such as are raised from the kernels of Pears or Apples. Tree-stocks are not so proper for this use, be­cause they by nature shoot up too fast; and if you cut off any branch to stop their growth and keep them low, they put forth divers others with more force, and so till [Page 7] they arrive at their full growth, do pro­duce nothing but wood, and very little fruit: And further, that small quantity of fruit which they do bear, is ordina­rily greener, more lateward, and worse coloured than that of such trees as are graffed upon the Quince-stocks; except the Portail, which graffed upon a Pear-stock becomes very good, provi­ded that it be planted in a hot and gra­velly soyle, for in rich and cold grounds it hath no tast. Next after the Portail those of Bezi-d'heri, the Butter-Pear. Beurre and the Orange-Pear prove bet­ter upon a Pear-stock then any others, because they do ordinarily beare much: Since then the nature of Peare-trees graffed upon a Peare-stock, is to raise themselves into a great tree, and to grow much in wood, it is easie to be judged that if they be not plashed a­gainst very high walls, where they may spread themselves with freedome, they cannot take effect, nor be proper for hedges or walls of ordinary height, or be kept low, except in a dry, [Page 8] stony, or sandy soile, where meeting with a scant nourishment they cannot shoot upward with much force, and therefore in such grounds they will soo­nest bear.

Some do more esteem those Peare-trees that are graffed upon a Tree-stock than those that are graffed upon a Quince, because they think the fruit of these latter to be harsher and lesse delicate than the others. Experience neverthelesse teacheth us, that this opi­nion is not true, and that the harshnesse which is sometimes found in those fruits that are graffed upon a Quince is not naturall to them, but is either caused by the over-moist and grosse earth which nourishes them, or by the too great quantity of dung wherewith the ground was manured when they were planted. And indeed we may easily mark, that this harshnesse grows lesse, and passeth away as the dung consumes and the trees grow older: 'Tis for this reason therefore that trees ought never to be dunged when they are planted, un­lesse [Page 9] there be a necessity for it; because the dung renders their fruit lesse deli­cate.

There are three severall sorts of Quince-trees: The first is that which is called the Apple-quince-tree, which beares a small fruit, flat and round like an Apple. This kinde is not good to graff Pears upon, because its nature en­clining to that of the Apple-tree agrees not with the Pear, so that we see the Syens which are graffed on it, do lan­guish or dye immediately. This sort of Quince-tree may be known by its leaf, which is round and small; and by its wood, which is rough and full of suc­kers; as also by its barke, which is whitish. The other two sorts of Quince-trees, though both good to graff Pears upon, & both bearing fair fruit, are yet very different, the sap of the one being much sweeter then that of the other, and consequently better. This differ­ence may be observed at the foot of old graffed trees; one of these sorts not waxing big according to the proporti­on [Page 10] of the graff it beares, and therefore makes a knobbe round about the joyn­ing of the graffe in the fashion of a roll, which spoyles the shape of the stemme, and shewes that this kind of Quince-tree hath not the sap so plentifull nor so good as that which encreaseth equally with the graffe. From whence we may easily conclude, that this last kind is the best of all the three, and that this is the true Quince-stock upon which a Peare should be graffed; it being a certaine signe that the sappe is the most pleasant and most conformable of all others to the nature of the Pear-tree, because both of them are so perfectly joyned toge­ther, and do grow equally great: this best kinde of Quince-tree may be known by its fruit, which is longer and bigger then that of the other sorts; it may also be known by its bark, which is smooth­er, blacker, and clearer; and by its leaf, which is longer and bigger than the others.

Quince-stocks may be raised by sow­ing the kernels as I have said before, but [Page 11] the best and more ready way is to have them from Shoots: to which end you must plant great stocks of the best sort of Quince-trees, about four foot assun­der, and at the time of the new Moon in March, cut them at an inch above ground, to the end that they may put forth store of young Shoots, which must neither be stripped nor pruned for feare of withering; but after they are shot up to the height of about a foot and halfe, they must bee covered a foot high with good earth, to which must be mingled a little rotten bed­mould to make them take root the soo­ner; The Winter following, if these young Sprouts have put forth any roots, they may be taken away though feeble, and planted in the Nursery: After these shoots are all taken off, it will be neces­sary to cover the old stocks all the win­ter with a little earth, & to uncover them again in February, to the end that they may put forth new Shoots, which when grown up, must be heaped with earth as the former: and by this meanes [Page 12] you may gather every year good store of plants: There is yet another way of raising Quince-stocks in good ground, by couching some of the boughs of the trees in the earth in winter time, as they do with Vines. The same course may be taken to raise young plants of the Paradise-Apple, but they are longer in growing then the Quinces.

The Plants proper for such Nurse­ries as are designed for the graffing of Peaches, Peach that cleaves to the stone. Pavies, Abri­cots, and Plumms, are those of young Damson-trees and S. Julien-plums, because their sap is more pleasant than that of other Plummes, and also because they last the longest: Some there are that plant stocks of Abricots and Almonds, to inc­culate upon them Peaches and Pavies; but these are very subject to a gumme which gathers about the Scutcheon (or Bud) so that if the Gardiner be not ve­ry carefull to take it away or prevent it, the bud is often-times enoked and kil­led by it: True it is, that when they do [Page 13] take, they bear very faire fruit, and, a­mongst others, admirable Nectarines. For this cause, the best and surest stock for these kindes of fruit, is that of Damsons, and the S. Julien, but especi­ally that of Damsons, because it lasts longer, and hath the sweeter sap. This sort of stock is bred at the foot of Dam­son-trees, and the S. Julien, which do put forth many suckers.

The Almond-tree is likewise not bad for this purpose in such grounds as are hot and sandy: but it proves not ordinarily from a Nursery, because that being replanted it takes again but very seldom; It is for this cause neces­sary to breed it in the place where it must stand; which is done by sowing sweet Almonds there at the beginning of March, after they have lyen in sand to bud during the winter: and there like­wise to inoculate them with a Scutche­on, A Locil dor­mant, a close shot bud. the bud not shot forth, that very year at the end of August, or the beginning of September, when the greatest force of the [Page 14] sap is past; or else the second yeare, if they be too weak the first. In the same manner the stones of Peaches or Abri­cots, may be sown and inoculated; and these without staying for the moneth of March, may be put into the ground as soon as the fruit is eaten: but the trees graffed upon them, last not so long as upon an Almond-stock.

Peach-trees and Pavies may also be brought up from a stone, but they doe very often degenerate; and there are no Peaches but those of Pau, Persiques, Violet-peaches, and the common Pea­ches, which doe ordinarily take this way.

Abricot-trees, although they may be graffed upon all sorts of Plum-stocks, doe neverthelesse beare the fairest fruit upon those that have the biggest Plums, and especially when they are white. When they are inoculated upon Dam­sons, their fruit is dryer and more firme: those Abricot-trees which come of a stone, bring forth lesse Abricots, but earlier ripe, and of a quicker tast then [Page 15] others, w ^ch. makes some to esteem them the more; but they do not agree with all sorts of ground, and are better in those that are hot than in the richer soils.

The good sorts of Plummes may be graffed upon all kinds of Plumme-trees, except such as bear small sower Plums, because their sap is too harsh.

To make Nurseries of Cherry-trees and other red fruits, you must plant the Suckers of white and red Merisiers are trees bearing small & sowre Cherries: Of this fort are our Honey-Cherries and ordinary black Cherries, e­specially the wild kinds of them. Merisiers, because their sap is more pleasant and nourishing then that of the black Merisier: There is neverthelesse a sort of the red Merisier, whose fruit is bitter, upon which the ordinary Cherry & Hart-cherries being graffed, the tree becomes as strong and as bigge as upon other stocks, but there growes a great knob about the joynt of the graff, which marres the beauty of the Tree, and shews that this sort of Merisier hath its sap very sharp and bitter, be­cause [Page 16] its stock encreaseth not in propor­tion to the graff.

The best stock to inoculate or graffe May-Cherries upon, is that of the Suc­kers of forward Cherries, though it be true that thereby the fruit becomes not so bigge or faire, nor the tree it selfe so strong as those which are graffed upon good Merisiers. The Cherry-stock is also better then the Merisier to graffe Grosses grio­tes Morella-Cherries upon, because that tree ordina­rily blooming much and bearing but little, it comes by being graffed upon a Cherry-stock to beare more plentifully, and preserves its fruit better, because the sap of a Cherry-stock is not so plentifull as that of the Merisier.

It is in vain to have procured good plants, if care be not taken to plant them in a good soile. To this purpose, a soft earth must be chosen somewhat fresh, and which is rich enough to be planted upon without dunging, especially when in it you would plant Nurseries of [Page 17] Pear-trees and Apple-trees brought up from kernels; for the dung breeds in the ground great white Worms, which eat the roots of the Plant, and cause it to die. Besides that, Earth too fat and too much manured, breeds Cankers in the bark of the Trees, which destroyes them utterly: but if the earth be not o­therwise good enough of its self with­out being amended, it is better to stay till the Plant hath put forth its third leaf before it be dunged, because that after three yeares it will be strong e­nough to resist those Worms which the dung breeds.

The ground most proper to plant a Nursery in, is such as hath neither been too much cultivated, nor too leight; but contrarily, that is the best which hath a body; and provided, that you have some short small mould to put about the roots in planting: that which is new broke up and hath lain long, is the most excellent of all.

Having then found a good plot of ground proper to make a Nursery, you [Page 18] must there open trenches of the large­nesse and depth of a spade-bit, placing them three foot, or three foot and halfe from one another, and observe, as much as you can, to make them so that one of the ends lie towards the South, and the other towards the North: For be­ing thus disposed, and the Nurseries well graffed, that is, the Graffes set with their backs towards the South (which must alwayes be observed if you would graff well) or as near it as is possible, the trees do the better uphold one ano­ther, and defend themselves much bet­ter from the great Windes of the South.

The ground being thus prepared, you must in the moneth of November, or De­cember, choose a faire day to plant it in, because that in faire weather the earth is short, easier to work, and better en­closes the root of the Plant; but in such soyles as are moist and lateward, it is better to stay till the end of February be­fore you plant, because too much moi­sture and water corrupt and rot the roots [Page 19] during winter. For this reason there­fore, in cold and moist countreys the water must of necessity be dreyned out, & the earth heighthened in the form of ridges, upon which the trees are to be planted: but the hot and early grounds must be planted in November, that the roots beginning before winter, whilest the warm weather lasts, to put forth some small filaments, may so unite themselves with the earth, that the trees at Spring may thereby grow and flou­rish much the better.

Having chosen a good Soyle, a pro­per Season, and a faire Day, he that would plant a Nursery of Apple and Pear-stocks brought up of kernels, must observe to cut off half the root of the Plant, and to pare off the top to about seven inches: then to place them in the trenches at the distance of seven or eight inches betwixt each twig, and to put them no deeper within the ground than they were in that place from whence they were taken: the trenches, after this, must be filled with mould that is soft [Page 20] and small, that it may the better enclose the roots of these small Plants; and the earth must be digged on both sides, and heaped about the Plant, that no more of it appear above than the heighth of half a fingers breadth.

Nurseries of Quince-stocks, and such as are designed for the bringing up of Dwarf-trees, be they Pear-trees, Peach­es, or Plum-trees, must be planted after another manner: For these Plants must be placed in the trenches at the distance of two foot from one another, and must be cut at 2. or 3. inches from the ground, to the end that they may put forth young wood upon which to graff; onely the Paradice Apple-tree must not be cut lower then a foot and half from the earth, because this kinde of tree being a long time in growing big, it will be ne­cessary to preserve its old wood to graff upon in a cleft, and to enjoy it thereby the sooner. For by this kind of graffing it comes much more quick then by ino­culating it with a Scutcheon.

Nor is it sufficient for the bringing [Page 21] up of fair trees, to have procured good Plants, and to have planted them well; but it is further of very great import­ance to be carefull in the well ordering of them. To this end, about the moneth of May, when the little Pear or Ap­ple-stock begins to bud, you must with your finger carefully take off all the buds but one from each stock, so that it may put forth but one shoot onely, and at the same time cause all the weeds to be taken away which are grown about them; and at the beginning of June in a faire season, the Nursery must be digged and laid even the depth of a good spade-bit in the middle of the furrow onely; for the Gardiner when he comes neare the Stocks at about a foot distance, must carry the spade lightly, and not enter it above half so deep as before, for fear of hurting the roots. This being done, it must be covered all over with Ferne, while the earth is yet fresh, about four inches thick, yet so that it choke not the Stocks: Afterwards, about the end of October, the Fern must be handsomely [Page 22] gathered together with the spade, and cast into the middle betwixt the rowes of the Plants, and the Stocks must after­ward be uncovered about the depth of half a spade-bit in manner of a trench, that during the Winter the raines and snow may the more easily fall to the roots of the Plants to moisten them. In uncovering the Plants, the earth that is taken away must be throwne upon the Fern, to cause it to rot the better; but care must be taken to leave the earth a­bout the foot of the Plants an inch or two thick, that they may be preserved from the frost, and for fear of cutting or uncovering their roots.

When the Winter is past, the Plants must be covered again in the moneth of March in a faire season, and the whole Nursery digged again and laid eeven. In digging it, the Ferne must be cut with the spade, and mingled with the earth, because it serves for soyle, and hath a particular property to make the Stocks put forth a great many Filaments, or small haire-roots. It is necessary that [Page 23] the Nursery be thus kept and renued af­ter the same fashion every year, untill the Plants have been two years graffed: But in those Countreys where Fern is not to be had, the Nurseries must be leightly digged thrice during every Sum­mer, to keep them fresh, and to hinder the weeds from growing: These three stirrings must be in March, May, and July; and in the moneth of October, the Plants must alwayes be uncovered, as I have before shewed.

If the Nursery being thus digged pro­fit not, it must in the moneth of Novem­ber of the third year, be dunged; the earth being every where and equally o­ver-spread and covered with good, fat, half-rotten dung, to the thicknesse of four inches, and at the same time digged to mix the earth and dung together. When the Nursery is to be dunged on this manner in the moneth of Novem­ber, it will be needlesse to dig it, or to uncover the Plants in the moneth of O­ctober.

Care must also be taken when the [Page 24] Plants begin to form their stemmes to cleanse them by cutting off all their shoots to the height of six or eight in­ches onely to prepare a place for the graffe; and then to cut off nothing a­bove that height, because these young Stock are so tender that no branch can be taken from them, or their tops be cut without altering their sap, which keeps them back, and much hinders their growth. For this reason, you must ob­serve, not to strip or cut off any of the wood of the Quince-stocks, Plumme-stocks, or Merisiers, planted in a Nurse­ry before the moneth of March in their second year; but then in stripping them it must be observed, that not above one branch (or two at most) is to be left up­on each root; which must at the same time be cleansed to the height of about eight inches, to make place for the Scut­cheons; and each stump must be cut close, that it may be recovered when it shall be time to inoculate. In the same manner the stocks of the Paradice-Apple are to be prepared, that they may be graffed upon a cleft.

[Page 25] The Nurseries of Stocks, being in this manner well planted and dressed, will be strong enough to be graffed in their third or fourth year: those of Quince-trees and Plum-trees in their second.

Those that would make Nurseries of Wall-nut-trees, Chest-nuts, or Oakes, to be planted in Walks, & Avenues be­fore their Houses, or in their Woods, must procure of the fairest Wall-nuts, Chest-nuts, and Acorns, which must im­mediately be put into beds of sand, ei­ther in Vessels, or else in some Cellar or covered place, where the frost may not hurt them, untill March, when they must be planted in good ground well digged; with this difference neverthe­lesse, that the Nuts must be set in tren­ches made eight foot from one another, and seven or eight inches betwixt each Nut. The Nuts, being so set and dres­sed, as is before-said, for the Nurseries, will put forth trees strong enough at 4. or five years to be taken up and set in the places where they are to grow: but [Page 26] the Acorns and Chestnuts must be scat­tered very near to one another, and con­fusedly in the trenches made at two foot distance, and covered with earth at the depth of four or five fingers onely: afterwards they must be kept with some small slight dressing and digging for three years, without pulling or stripping them; after which time they are to be taken up and planted in Woods: Or if you be desirous to raise them into tall trees, for Walks or Avenues, they must be set in a Nursery like Peary-stocks: And then, when they are set into the Nursery, they must be cut at an inch from the ground, and so left at liberty to shoot out till March, of their second year; when they must be stripped to the height of half a foot onely, and but one sprigg left upon them: After which, they must not be touched, nor any branch of them be cut, till they be ta­ken up to be placed where they must grow.

Although, according to the order of my design, I am to speak of no Trees, [Page 27] but such onely as bear fruit, having en­closed all my Walks within the com­passe of a Garden, yet hath the beauty of Woods and Walks carryed me in­sensibly out of it: And now I find my self so far ingaged, that I believe I may, returning to the path from which I have strayed, speak a word or two of the dif­ferent sorts of wild Trees, with which Woods and Avenues may be planted, and the manner also of breeding them.

For Avenues, men commonly plant Lime-trees, Elmes, Pines, or Firre­trees. For the bringing up of Lime-trees and Elmes, the seeds of them must be gathered, and sown in the moneth of March, upon beds of Earth, after the manner already mentioned, for Quince, and Pear-stocks, then covered with small mould, or rotten leaves of trees: For 3. years you must keep them with a slight dressing, that the weeds grow not: These Seeds thus sown, shoot forth Plants which may well be taken up after three years, to be planted in Woods, or in Nurseries, if you desire [Page 28] to have them fair Trees, proper for A­venues; you may likewise take Suckers of Elms, and plant them in a Nurse­ry like the Srocks grown from Kernels. Tree-stocks, or the Shoots of Quince-trees.

To bring up Pines and Fir-trees, you must, in the moneth of October, sow the seeds of them, scattering them without any order in shady places, covered with leaves, as in Woods that are somewhat open: And when they are come up, leave them there till they be three or four foot high, when you may take them up, and set them where they must stand, because being removed when they are young, they do the more easily take a­gain. They may also be brought up in a Nursery; but then they must be taken up, being very small; and if they are to be carried far, care must be had of con­ing them in bags, with their Roots well wrapped up in mosse or earth, that they come not to the aire; and observe to plant them immediately in good ground in the shade, three or four foot [Page 29] distant every way from one another, that you may take them up with the earth about their roots, when they are fit to be set in the places where they must stand.

CHAP III.

THere being many different wayes of graffing, each where of is to be spoken of particularly and apart; I suppose, that not onely by the order of this Discourse, but also according to that of the Seasons, I am to begin with that which is performed in a Cleft, and to give the Rules which must be obser­ved in it.

Graffing in a Cleft is that which takes best upon the Pear and Apple-stocks, because it comes much sooner then that which is performed by Inoculation. When the Stocks of these Plants are strong enough to be graffed, the first Rule which is to be observed, is, to graff [Page 30] them all at one time; and to that end, to pull upall those Stocks that are too weak, and plant them in some other place, for they would otherwise choke the Graffs, and hinder them from grow­ing: Then you must graff them in Febr. or March at the full Moon, that they may spring with the more vigour: For it is certain, that if they be graffed in the Wane, they will bear too soon. Care must also be taken to cut the Syens from such Trees as are in their year of bea­ring, and full of Fruit-buds; and when they are grown, they must be cut in the Wane, at six or seven foot high, to form the head of the Tree.

To graff well after this way, you must cut off the Stock you would graff upon towards the bottom, five or six inches from the ground; it must be cut aslope like a Hinds foot, to the middle of the stemm, and the other half flat, that thereby the Syen may the better be placed upon it: Because the Tree be­ing this cut, doth the more easily reco­ver it self. You must also be carefull to [Page 31] cut this slope towards the North, for two reasons: First, because it will not dry so soon as if it were exposed to the South, and therefore recovers it self the sooner: And again, because the back of the Graff must (as I have said before) alwaies be turned towards the South, or as near it as may be; in as much as thereby it better resists the great winds: And on the contrary, when turned with the back towards the North, it is by the least wind loosened and broken. Now that the back of the Graffs may be tur­ned toward the South, it is easie to be judged, that the slope of the Cut must be on the side exposed to the North.

It is further necessary to be observed, that no more but one Syen be put upon each Stock, how big soever, to the end it may form but one stemm, and also that the Graff may become proportio­nable to the bignesse of the Stock, that is, strong if that be strong, and little if that be weak: As soon as the Tree is graffed, it must presently be covered [Page 32] handsomly, and without shaking the Sy­en) with clay or galt, mixed with very small Hay or Mosse, lest it dry and crack.

This way of graffing in a Cleft is al­so best, upon Paradice-Apple-stocks, and Plumm-stocks, when you graff o­ther Plumms upon them: It is also good for Cherries and Merisiers.

Inoculating by a Scutcheon, with a A Ocil Dormant, with a sleeping or close Bud. Bud not shot forth, is better then graffing up­on Quince-stocks; and upon Plumme-stocks, when you put upon them Peaches, Pa­vies, and Abricot-trees. But the Scut­cheon must be placed upon young wood, and where the Stock is not too big, because when the bark is hard, they take with more difficulty, & are the lon­ger before they be recovered. Now for asmuch as these trees are seldom brought up with a high stemm, for Standers, but are for the most part designed to be planted in Hedges, against Walls, or kept low, as Dwarf-trees, and for that [Page 33] reason ought to be branched from the foot, there may two Buds be put upon each Stock, when they are inoculated; onely care must be taken not to put them both upon one side, one above the other: For by that means they will harm one another, and coming to shoot will give an ill shape unto the tree. The best way to place them is on both sides, and one higher than the other, because when they are put over against each o­ther, it proves very hard to cut off the head of the tree betwixt the two Buds; and the place cut, will the more hardly recover it self.

Some there are, who do most esteem the trees that come of one bud onely, accounting them handsomer then o­thers: Wherefore in the inoculating of them, they put but one bud upon each stock; for my part, though I am of their opinion so far, as to think those trees which have but one stemm to be more naturall, and consequently more beautiful than others, especially Dwarf-standers, which, to be well fashioned, [Page 34] ought to have their stemm about a foot high; yet I would counsel the putting of two buds alwayes upon every stock, because, if either of the two take, the Stock may not fail: But then too, it is onely upon condition to leave onely the best growing, and to take off the other at the beginning of the second year.

This kind of inoculating, with a bud not shot forth, is to be performed in the wane of the Moon, in June, July, or August, alwayes upon young wood, be­cause it hath more sap, and the bark, by consequence, more tender, and easie to be taken up: For this reason, in the planting of Quince and Plumm-stocks, they must be cut at two inches from the ground (as I have said before) to make them put forth new wood, but not ino­culated untill their second year, to the end, that they may be strong enough: For if they be weak, the Graff cannot shoot forth but with difficulty, and doth but languish. There being no more cer­tain means of procuring fair trees, than by graffiing and inoculating upon a [Page 35] Stock that is strong and vigorous.

The time proper for inoculating, de­pends upon the quality of the Territo­ry, because according as that is early or late, so must the work there be earlier or later; it being easie to judge, that in hot Countreys, where the sap begins to ascend betimes, it descends also soo­ner; and on the contrary, that it lasts longer in moist grounds, where the Spring is more lateward: For this cause, the Gardiner must not alwayes stay for the second sap, but often inocu­late after the first, especially upon Plum-stocks: It is true, that it is better to stay for the second, when Abricot-stocks, Almonds, and Peach-stocks, are to be inoculated upon: Because their first sap is so aboundant, that if, while it is in force, the bark be cut to put in a bud, it issues out, and causeth a Gumm about the Scutcheon, which oftentimes chokes and kills it.

To hinder this mischief, the Gardi­ner must be carefull to untye the Scur­cheon betime, to give way for the pas­sage [Page 36] of the sap; but the best and most assured remedy is, not to inoculate these sorts of trees, untill the end of their se­cond sap, after that the greatest force of it is past: He must also be carefull, not to inoculate them, but in a dry season, for the rain mischiefs the bud, and hin­ders the taking of it.

Peaches and Pavies must alwayes be inoculated with a Scutcheon, upon Damson-stocks, or the S ^t. Julien, Abri­cot, or Almond-stocks. But, as I said before, the Almond-tree, if re-planted, very seldome takes again; wherefore, such as would put Peach-trees and Pa­vies upon it, must sow Almonds in the place where they desire their trees should grow; and those sweet Almonds onely, because they have a better sap to nourish the Graffe than the bitter ones.

The Almond-tree takes much better than the Plumm-tree, in dry and hard grounds, because, having but few roots, it needs not so much nourishment; it is also not so subject to put forth many [Page 37] suckers from its foot as the Plumm-tree, and wears not out the ground so much: But it decayes and dies much sooner then the Plumm-tree.

Plumm-trees may be graffed upon o­ther Plumm-trees, both by Inoculation, and in a Cleft; but the Graff upon a Cleft comes to its perfection very much faster than that which is inoculated.

Abricots may be inoculated upon all sorts of Plumm-stocks; but they bear the fairest fruit, when they are put upon such as bring forth the biggest White­plumms, because these are somewhat of their nature: And by the same rea­son, when they are inoculated upon the stock of a small black Damson, their fruit is dryer, firmer, and more proper for the Confectioner.

Cherry-trees, and other red Fruits, may both be graffed in a Cleft, and in­oculated A Ocil-dormant, with a shut bud. with a Budd not shot forth; but it is a better way, and more assured to inoculate them A Ocil poussant, with an open bud. with a Budde [Page 38] shooting forth: This kind of inoculati­on is like the other, by a bud not shot, save onely that it must be done about mid- June, and that presently upon it the Head or Branches of the tree must be cut three inches above the Scutcheon, to the end that the sap, finding no other course, may come freely to it, and cause it to spring.

There is another sort of graffing like unto that which is performed in a Cleft, which they call Emporie-piece. Taking out a piece, because in this manner of graffing the stock is cleft but very little, instead whereof a place is cut in the wood to enter the Graff. This way of graffing is principally put in practice upon great trees, because they cannot wholly be split, without harming them much: and in graffing them it must be observed, not to cut off their heads too short, nor too near the stemm, because they recover not with­out great difficulty; and being so wounded, do very often die: You must also observe, to leave them some small [Page 39] branches here and there upon the top of the tree uncut off, to receive a part of the sap; for when that begins to ascend, and instead of meeting great branches (as it was wont) in which to spread it self, meets with nothing but small Graffs, too weak to receive it all, it chokes them through its aboundance, and causeth them to dye: But then af­ter the Graffs are taken, and have well shot forth, you must in March, the next year after, take away wholly all those boughs which were left, and cut them as close as may be, to the stemm of the tree, that their places may the more ea­sily be covered again. This kind of graffing must be put in practice in Fe­bruary, as well as the other which is in a Cleft.

If these great trees have their bark too hard, and their wood too stubborn to be graffed upon, it will be better to cut off their heads somewhat high, to make them put out young wood and new branches, upon which you may graff, in their third year: But seeing [Page 40] these great trees cannot be graffed but very high, and at the end of the boughs, care must be had to put some twiggs a­bout the Graffs as soon as they are put in; for coming to grow, their shoot is so tender, and so full of leaves, that du­ring the two first years they are very subject to be broken with the least wind. These twigs also serve to hinder the Birds from setling upon the Graffs, and spoyling them.

There are, besides these mentioned, divers other different wayes of graffing, as that which is called Enter en flusteau, is, To lodge a short Graff (cut off with some more bark at the foot then needs to cover it) within the tender bark of a shoot or branch that is little bigger then the Graff it self. En flusteau (or, In a Flute) which is used for Chestnut-trees a­bout Midsomer, when the trees are in their full sap; And that which is made betwixt the bark and the wood upon great trees, which have their bark too thick: But this last sort of Graff is not so good, because it is very subject to be broken with the least winds, and the [Page 41] stemm can very hardly recover it self. Some use yet another way of graffing, very extraordinary; They take the end of a twigg (about as long as the breadth of 3. fingers) of that Fruit which they would graff, which they sharpen flat­wise, and in the moneth of March or A­pril, when the sap is in the tree, having made an Incision, a-cross in the bark of the Stock, they place the Graff in it, ty­ing it with hemp, as in inoculating: This sort of Graff does not ordinarily take, no more than that which is made by Approach.

For graffing in a Cleft, it is indif­ferent, whether you cut your Syens in the increase of the Moon, or in the wane, because, that in the moneth of February (which is the proper season for this sort of graffing) there is no sap in the trees: For which reason, you may, if you please, cut them even in the mo­neth of December, or January, and keep them untill Febr. or March, provided nevertheless, that they be put half-way into the ground, every one apart by it [Page 42] self; but in Summer, as all graffing must be performed in the wane, to bring forth much fruit, and the boughs cannot be graffed too fresh, being then in their full sap; so they must likewise be cut in the wane: But that which ought principally to be observed for all sorts of Syens, is, that they must be ga­thered from such trees as are in their year of bearing, that is, very full of fruit, or of buds in order to it: For it is cer­tain, that the Syens contain in them the same qualities with the tree from which they were taken: and therefore if the tree be in the year of its rest, in the which it bears none, or but little fruit, they cannot be so good: And indeed, Experience teacheth us, that the Graffs which are cut from trees without fruit, bear alwayes but very little, and that very seldome. This hinders not, but that one may take Syens very good for bearing, sometimes from Graffs of two years: For although these trees have no Fruit-buds, because they are yet too young, they may nevertheless be in their [Page 43] bearing year, and so communicate that good quality to their Syens: But be­cause the bearing year cannot be distin­guished from that of their Repose, but only by their Fruit-buds, it is alwayes most certain, to gather the Syens from such trees, as are full of those buds.

The Syen, which is a shoot but of one year, when the wood of it is be­come firm, is as good to be graffed in a Cleft, as that which bath old wood up­on it: It is true, that this last beares fruit sooner then the other; and in case of necessity, when Syens of the last year cannot be gotten, one may cut such as are of two years growth; but these shoot not forth with so much vigour, as those which are younger, and by the same reason do also bear fruit soo­ner.

The Nurseries being graffed, must be diversly cultivated, according to the na­ture of the trees which you bring up in thom: To keep those Plants well which are graffed in a Cleft, and designed for Trees with a high stemm, such as Pear-trees, [Page 44] Apple-trees, and others, for stan­ders, you must be carefull to pull off all the buds of the Graff as soon as it begins to shoot, leaving onely one bud upon it, that it may grow up but with one single stemm: After which, they must be left to grow at liberty, because the young sprout is then so tender and deli­cate, that the least branch cannot be cut off without much altering the sap, and wronging the stemm; which by that means would be the longer in growing big: For this reason, those that are o­ver-hasty to cleanse their Nurseries, by taking away the superfluous branches too soon, do hinder them and spoyl them; for the Graffs, instead of grow­ing big, and strengthening themselves at the foot in proportion to their growth, do, when they are pruned, shoot up suddenly, and not being able any longer to uphold themselves, must of necessity be kept up with sticks, which spoyls them, and hinders a good part of the Plants in the Nursery from coming to good: It is therefore neces­sary [Page 45] to stay untill the third year, before you begin to strip the Graffs; and then also at the first you must be content on­ly to writhe the branches, which you in­tend to take away, with your hand, at three or four inches from the body, unto the height of two or three foot, to the end onely, to stop the sap, and to hin­der it from quitting the stemm, and spending it self in useless branches; but in the moneth of April, in the year fol­lowing, those branches must be wholly taken away, and cut off as near the stem as may be, that they may recover again the sooner, and no knot be caused in that place, from which each of them was cut. In this manner, the taking a­way all useless branches from the trees must be continued from year to year, according to their strength, to raise and bring up their stemm to six or seven foot high; at which heighth they must be stopped (by cutting them) in the mo­neth of March, and the wane of the Moon; to strengthen them downwards, and form their heads.

[Page 46] Those that are curious, to have Apple-trees with a fair stemm, and strait, must graff their Nurseries with Syens, taken from the Apple-tree, cal­led de Suraut, which bear great sowre Apples; because these Syens will the first year put forth a shoot of six or seven foot high, growing more in one year than others in two, and so in four years do make great trees fit to be taken up, and set in the place where they are to grow; upon which, two years after they may graff any kinds of good Ap­ples, which they desire to have.

For such Nurseries as are inoculated with a bud not shot forth, being for trees designed to be planted against a wall, or to be kept low, as shrubs, or dwarf-trees, they must be ordered otherwise than those whereof I have already spo­ken: For the stock upon which you in­oculate must not be cut off till after the Winter, when the bud is taken, and ready to shoot forth; and then you must observe, not to cut it lower than at three fingers breadth above the bud, [Page 47] for fear of altering it; and for the same reason, to cut it aslope, with the cut outwards; and after that, let the bud grow without touching it, except it shoot upward too strongly without putting forth any branches: For then it will be necessary to stop it at half a foot high, by pinching it with your fingers, to make it grow strong, and put forth nearer to the foot; it being the beauty of Trees planted against a wall, or kept low, to be well furnished with branches from the foot.

Pear-trees graffed upon Quince-stocks, cannot be fit to be re-planted, till after their second, third, or fourth year, when their bark is well recovered: But Peaches and Pavies, when they are strong, and have shot well, are better to be taken up after their first year, than after their second or third leaf; because, as they come very quickly, so are they sooner fit to be removed than others: Besides that, being of a dry wood, they spring again the better, when they are young, and have a tender bark. For [Page 48] which reason also, care must be taken in the re-planting of them, to cut off the stump which remains above the Graffe, and then to cap it with galt, or clay mixed with hay; by which meanes the bark will the more easily be reco­vered.

The order of graffing differing sorts of Fruit in the same Nursery, depends upon the Ingenuity of the Master But the best, in my opinion, is either to graffe the same kinde of fruit upon a whole row of Stocks, or if but a part, then next to one another; and at the same time, to write in a book the names of the Fruits, the quantity of stocks that are graffed with them, and in what Row they be: And if in the same row there be divers stocks graffed with different fruits, to marke with a great stake the beginning of each sort, to the end, that when you would take up a Tree, you may not be mistaken in the kind of fruit which you desire.

Such as are curious to procure from all parts the best sorts of Peares, must, [Page 49] when they graff their Nurseries, graff many fruits of the largest kind, such as Pound-pears, Summer Bon Crestiens, and others, which have store of sap; upon which afterwards they may graff in a Cleft other sorts of rare Pears, whereof the Syens cannot be had in Summer, ei­ther because they are at too great a di­stance, or else because their wood is too tender and delicate to be inoculated: Those that are curious, may likewise re-graff upon the same trees Winter- Bon Crestiens, and Bergamots, which will thereby become bigger and fairer.

Graffing may be practised all the year long; that is, in a Cleft, in the moneths of February, March, and April; by inoculating with a bud shooting forth, in May and June; with a bud not shot, in July, August, September, and the beginning of October, upon Almond-stocks and Peaches, grown from a stone: And again, in a Cleft, in the moneths of November, December, and January: But in these last seasons they do not or­dinarily take, so that it is alwayes bet­ter [Page 50] and surer to graff in the proper sea­sons.

Curiosity hath perswaded some to invent extraordinary Graffs, by ming­ling the species of trees entirely differ­ent, that thereby they might prevail with Nature, to bring forth new mon­strous Fruits: They were perswaded, that by passing the branch of a Vine through the body of a Walnut-tree, pierced with a Wimble, and afterwards exactly stopping both ends of the hole, this branch would take its nourishment from the Nut-tree, and so might pro­duce Grapes full of Oyl, instead of Wine; they believed, that by graffing a Rose-bush upon a Holly-tree, or a Broom, it would bring forth green or yellow Roses; that having graffed the An Apple with a blackisn rind, and red within, like our Queen-Apple. Calville-Apple upon a black Mulbery, or Peach-trees upon Quinces, they might gather black Ap­ples, and Peaches with­out stones: But Experience hath taught them, that Nature is most chast in her [Page 51] Alliances, and most faithfull in her Productions, and that she cannot be de­bauched, or corrupted by any Artifice: Indeed it is but a vain imagination, to believe that the Syen can quit its Spe­cies, to take that of the stock upon which it is graffed; it being certain, that it takes nothing from it besides its nourishment. And, as every one knows, that things which are contrary in their nature, endeavour alwayes to destroy each other, and that they can never be perfectly united together, because union cannot consist but betwixt things of the same nature; so may every one easily judge, that Syens cannot prove, or take effect, except upon stocks of the same kind, or which have a sap confor­mable to them: Experience shewing us, that they either grow or languish ac­cording as the sap of the stock, that nou­risnes them, is more or less proper for them: For this reason, a Pear-tree can never take upon an Apple-stock, nor Peaches upon Quince-trees, because their Species are wholly different. I de­ny [Page 52] not, but the stock or foot, of trees which are graffed, doth in some man­ner communicate its quality to the Graffs it bears; but it never causes them to change their kind. The Win­ter Bon Crestiens being graffed upon the Pear as big as a Mans fist. Gros Rateau, the Pound-Pear, or the Summer Bon Crestien, bear alwayes the same kind of fruit: but they bring forth bigger Pears, because the sap of those trees, upon which they are graffed, is very aboundant: For the same reason Peaches become very fair, being inocu­lated upon an Abricot.

Hart-Cherries, and A kind of little, sweet, and long Cherry: Merisier is a small, bitter, & wild Cherry-tree. Guisnes, are bigger up­on a Merisier, than upon a Cherry-stock: And the Morella-Cherries set upon a Cherry-stock, prove better than the Hart-Cherries so put, because of the likenesse and conformity of their sap; wherefore it may be concluded, that to graff well, you must never put any trees but upon such stocks as are [Page 53] proper for them: As the great kind of black Mulberrie, upon that of the small kind; it being certain, that it takes bet­ter upon that, than upon the white Mulberry; the Almond-tree upon the black Damson; the small Medlar upon the white Thorn, or Quince-tree; the Chesnes verts, The Holm Oak, or French Oak, which never casts its leaves, but is alwayes green. green Oaks must also, for the same cause, be graffed in a Cleft upon the common Oak, but somewhat late, because their sap is more late­ward.

CHAP. IV.

AFter you have brought up fair Trees in your Nurseries, before you can have Fruit of them, you must of necessity plant them somewhere else, be it against a wall, or in the open air. But as the best trees cannot prosper, un­less [Page 54] they meet with a good soyl, very great care must be taken before they be planted, to prepare the earth well for them, and to make it good. According to this order, therefore, having alrea­dy treated of Nurseries, I come now to speak of the different sorts of earths, and of those trees which agree best with each of them.

Those who have Gardens and Or­chards, situated in a very good soyl, need not all these instructions, because the excellent nature of their ground does more of it self, and without any pains, than that which is amended with the greatest care. The onely design of this Discourse, being but onely to help Nature, presupposes her to be sick, and to have need of succours from abroad.

Those then that would plant, must, a­bove all things, observe the quality of their ground, and know whether it be strong or light, whether it be too dry or too moist, soft or stony; not onely, that he may give it such helps as are ne­cessary and capable to correct its fault, [Page 55] but also to plant in it such sorts of trees as are proper for it: Because it being impossible, so to dung or amend a ground, as to make it absolutely to change its nature, especially for great Plants, it is certain that we must con­form to it, and set no trees but such as will take, in it: For to endeavour to force Nature is but to lose our labour.

Every one may easily know the qua­lity of the earth of his own Garden; wherefore I think it sufficient to say what sorts of Fruit-trees will take best upon each ground.

Garden-Pear-trees will thrive best in a soft earth, and of a great depth, for their roots grow downwards, and al­wayes search towards the bottom of the ground; so that it is observed, as soon as they meet with hard rocky Tuff, a kind of white sand, or soft and brittle stone, often-times lying in flakes in good­ground. earth, or Glaise; A moist­slimy white soyl. Galt, they turn yellow, their tops dry up, and they di­minish rather than en­crease.

But for Apple-trees, [Page 56] seeing their roots tend not downward, but spread toward the superficies of the earth, they need not so great a depth of it. But then it must likewise be strong, so that they may there find store of nou­rishment, and fresh also, that their roots may run into it the more easily: I deny not, but Apple-trees may grow in a sandy ground, and bear very good Fruit, though finding less nourishment there, they cannot put forth so many branches, nor have those they do put sorth so strong.

Quince-trees thrive best in a soft ground, and somewhat Tresch, fresh or moist in a lower degree. fresh, because their roots, which are tender, do there spread without pain, and gather together good store of nourishment; and, because they grow not deep within the earth, it is enough for them if they find a good soil of two or three foot deep; in strong and moist grounds they encrease much in wood, and maintain themselves very green; but then the Fruits graffed upon them, are [Page 57] harsh, and without colour, especially Winter-fruits, as the Bon Crestien: Whereas, on the contrary, Quince-trees planted in a dry, gravelly, & light ground, grow not so much in wood, but their fruit is better, fairer colou­red, and more tender. The cause of this difference is easie to be known, by him who considers, that the beauty and vi­gour of trees depends upon that of their roots; and that according as they delight themselves in a ground, or else disagree with it, so the trees must either flourish extremely, or lan­guish, since it is from their roots, that they draw all their nourishment: for this reason, when ever you see a tree grow yellow, or diminish, be assured that its roots are sick.

Now the roots cannot suffer, but ei­ther through too much moisture and cold, or else through too much drought; because both the one and the other of these two extremes destroyes that tem­per which is requisite in the earth, for the nourishment of Plants; the water [Page 58] by its cold drives out that heat, which animates the earth, & so renders it dead & incapable of production: It stops the sap, and consequently makes the trees to suffer. Hence we see, that cold rains in Summer, if too frequent, make the greenest trees turn yellow: but too great heat doth likewise cause the same effect; for it dries the earth too much, and dissipates all that moisture which should nourish the roots. From this, seeing that the Sun more easily pene­trates such grounds as are dry, and with­out moisture, it is easie to judge, that Trees growing there must turn yellow, and changed, sooner than in stronger grounds, which defend themselves bet­ter from the heat.

For the same reason must fruits be tender, and well coloured, in dry ground; and, on the contrary, very harsh rnd gross, without colour or tast, in grounds that are cold and moist: Be­cause it is the Sun, which by its heat dis­sipates the cold and gross moisture of the Earth, and renders it more subtle & [Page 59] delicate: In those grounds, therefore, into the which it pierces most, the roots finding but little moisture do conse­quently encrease but little in their wood; but that sap which they do draw from thence, being well prepared, and very pleasant, makes their fruit sweet in sub­stance, and of a thin skin, which takes a better colour, and causes them to ripen the sooner: Whereas, on the contra­ry, the Sun not being able to pierce in­to strong grounds, the trees are there nourished with a grosser moisture, which renders their fruit harsh, unplea­sant, and longer in growing ripe: And as Winter-fruits are longer upon the trees, and do need a greater heat to ri­pen them, so they do the more partici­pate of the harshness of the earth which nourished them: Experience confirms this Truth; insomuch, as we see that in cold and rainy years, the fruits have nei­ther tast nor beauty, especially in such grounds as are strong and moist.

After this discourse founded upon Reason, and confirmed by Experience, [Page 60] it is easie to know what ground is pro­per for each kind of fruit; and I con­ceive it almost needless, to go on to speak more particularly of it; never­theless, that I omit nothing, I shall adde, that the Plum-tree grows very well upon dry and stony grounds, be­cause its root is strong and vigorous; that the Almond-tree takes well also upon the same sort of ground, because it requires but little nourishment; and that Cherry-trees, with other red fruits, are more delighted with a soft and sandy earth, because their roots are ten­der, and spread upon the surface of the ground.

I must end this Chapter, as I began it, by saying, that it is not written for such as have Gardens and Orchards, situated in an excellent soyl, because that all sorts of Trees prove well in a good ground. But the ground not be­ing good every where, and men resolving rather to cultivate and plant that place where their lot falls, though bad, then to quit it & seat themselves in [Page 61] a better soyl, I conceived it my duty by this advice, co help them in making a good use of their ground, and to draw all possible advantages from their bad situation, by planting such trees as may prosper in it.

CHAP. V.

HE that knows the fault of his ground, whether it be too dry, or too moist, too hot, or too cold, may easily judge, with what dung it is to be amended, provided, that he know the different qualities of his dung. For it being certain, that no fault can be a­mended, but by its contrary, he must conclude, that if his ground be too dry, he must moisten it; if too hot and bur­ning, he must refresh it; as also, that ground too cold and moist, must be [Page 62] heat and dryed. I shall, for this reason, content my self to speak onely concer­ing the different qualities of the several sorts of Dung and Soyl, wherewith the ground may be manured; leaving it to the prudence of the Gardiner how to apply them, & to make use of them, ac­cording to the different quality and ne­cessity of his ground.

Cow-dung, which is, of all, the most common, being throughly rotten, is al­so the best, because it is the fattest of all others, and so doth the more correct the most ordinary fault of grounds, which is, that they are too dry and hungry. It preserves it self a long while in the earth, and not having too much heat, it must be carried and buri­ed before Winter, which is the best season for dunging, because the Dung upholds the Soyl, makes it more mo­vable and light, and causes the Snow and Rains, which fall in the Winter, to sink the deeper into it, and by their moisture to render it the more fruit­full.

[Page 63] Sheeps dung is also very fat, but be­ing hotter than Cow-dung, it is more proper for cold grounds; this must be laid and buried in the moneth of No­vember before the depth of Win­ter.

Horse-dung is the least fat of them all, and therefore is not very proper for Trees, which have alwayes more need of fat and nourishment, than of heat: for this reason it is most ordinarily used for Kitchin Gardens, to heat the ground, and thereby to bring up the herbs quickly; it is upon the same ac­count exceeding good in such grounds as are very moist, to dry them, and thereby to make them more light and short. It may, notwithstanding, be em­ployed for all uses, when it is throughly rotten, or when mingled with other sorts of dung, that is, when it hath lost all its heat. This must be spread be­times, and buried in the beginning of Winter, to the end, that all its heat may be dissipated before the Spring: For if you should stay till Winter is [Page 64] past, before you make use of it, it might heat too much, and even burn the roots of the Trees.

Hogs-dung is the coldest of all, and therefore best for the hottest soyls; and seeing that trees do ordinarily turn yellow, by reason of too much drought, it is very proper to cause them to flou­rish again; it must be buried as soon as ever it is spread on the ground.

Pidgeons-dung is too hot to be used when it is fresh, but when its heat is extinguished, it doth wonderfully re­enliven Trees, and give them a new vi­gour. It loses its force, and is consumed in the earth in two years: it must be spread in the beginning of Winter, and not buried till the Spring, by reason of its heat: It may nevertheless be carry­ed, fresh as it comes out of the Pidgeon­house, to the foot of old trees, to renew them; but then, it must be spred in the beginning of November, two inches thick onely, and care must be had to lay it no nearer than within afoot of the stemm, and not to bury it untill [Page 65] Spring, that, during the Winter, it may receive all the Snow and Rains.

In those Countreys, where Dung is hard to be procured, it is very good to make use of the cleansings of Pools or Lakes, and of the earth of Turfs out upon the High-wayes; the scourings of Ponds, being very fat and moist, are ex­cellent good for such Lands as are light, and which have no Body nor Moisture: But they are not to be used before the Sun and the Frost have pas­sed over them for a year or two. The mould of a Turf, out upon the High­way, is alwayes the fattest, and the best of the whole Countrey, both because it it is least used, and also, because it re­ceives the dung of the Bea [...]ts that pass o­ver it; there must be taken of it but the depth of half a foot, or a foot at most, according to the goodness of the soyl: It must be well out and chopt in­to small morsels, before it be buried, that it may mix the better with the na­turall mould, and communicate its goodness unto it. This sort of Earth, [Page 66] being very soft, without heat, and ex­tremely nourishing, is very excellent to be put into the holes about the roots of trees, when they are planted, that it may lye close about them, and fill up all the vacuities, for which end it must be made very short and small.

Every one knowing the quality of his Ground, and that also of all sorts of Dung, and other Manure, which may be used, will easily judge, with which sort his ground is to be amended; but this knowledge will be to small pur­pose, if at the same time he know not how to make good use of it: For if the Dung be not employed as it ought to be, it may hurt the Trees very much, and spoyl them, instead of doing them good.

A man can never take too much care in preparing a Ground well, before it be planted, because the beauty of the Trees depends absolutely upon it; and the faults which are there made at the first, become afterwards irreparable: It being almost impossible to search under [Page 67] the roots of a Tree, or to bring any soyl thither, when it is once planted: For this reason it is, that to prepare the ground well for great Plants, the holes must be opened greater or less, accord­ing as the ground hath more or lesse need of being amended: In the richest soils they must be made six foot square, & if for Pear-trees, they must be digged two foot deep, for Apple-trees but one foot: for if the holes be made deeper, the roots will follow the good mould, and descend to the bottom, when being straitned, and not finding sufficient nou­rishment, they languish. whereas, being planted very high, & their roots spread upon the surface of the Earth, which is alwayes the best, they profit with plea­sure, and bring forth their fruit bigger, and better nourished.

Now seeing, that in digging these holes, all the earth that is taken out of them is not equally good, and none but the best must be taken to fill them a­gain, it is fit to be known, that the up­permost earth is alwayes the most ex­excellent, [Page 68] not onely where stone, gra­vel, or galt, lie very near the sword, but also even in the best grounds; because the deeper earth having never felt the heat of the Sun, nor received that plea­sant moisture which the Rains bring with them, is, as it were, dead and inca­pable of production; and therefore must never be put again into the hole, where it would remaine unprofita­ble.

For the same reason, if such as plant could have the patience to leave the holes open for a year; it is certain, that the soyl would thereby become the bet­ter, and that the earth, which was taken out of them, would be made more ca­pable of production, when it had, for that space of time, received the heat and influences of the Sun. These holes being thus digged, before you fill them, you must work the bottom well, and then put in of the best mould, the depth of a foot, and spread upon that half a foot of rotten or chopt dung, which must then be wrought together with the [Page 69] mould twice or thrice over, untill they be well mixed; because, if the dung should remain all together, it would grow hot, and spoil the roots of the trees, instead of profiting them. You must afterwards put in a second bed of earth, of the same depth with the first, and half a foot of dung upon it, mixing them likewise well together; and if there shall be need, you may also adde a third bed, and so fill the hole, till it be half a foot higher than the rest of the ground, because the dung settles as it rots.

This order must be followed (as I have said already) according as the earth hath more or less need of being a­mended, but alwayes rather profusely than covetously; but if a sufficient quantity of dung cannot be procured, e­nough to make three beds, care must be taken, especially to amend the bottom of the hole, because, that after it is filled, and the tree planted, that can be come at no more, whereas on the con­trary, the upper part of the earth is al­wayes easily dunged.

[Page 70] In moist grounds, and such as have no great depth, it is needless to make holes wherein to plant the Trees; but after that the ground is well digged and dun­ged, according as there is need, it is best to set the Trees upon it, without sinking them in, and to cover the roots with the mould of Turfs chopt very small, a foot and half high, and for the breadth of five or six foot round about the stemm: And because in such places the roots ought to be hindred, as much as may be, from growing downwards towards the bottom, especially those of Pear-trees, it must be observed in the planting of them, that all the undermost roots, and such as descend, are to be cut flat, not aslope like a Hinds foot: Those Trees which shall be thus planted above ground, may, after three years, in the moneth of November, be conveniently dunged upon the roots.

To plant Trees well against a wall, a Trench must be opened of eight foot wide, and three foot deep; in the dig­ging whereof, care must be had, not to [Page 71] come near the wall by half a foot; and that side of the Trench also, that is to­wards it, must be cut aslope, for fear of uncovering the Foundation, and causing the ruine of the Wall. Whilest this Trench is in digging, the good mould must be severed from the bad, and all the stones and roots carefully taken out of it, if there be any, that it may after­wards be filled in the same manner with the holes before spoken of; that is to say, the bottom of the Trench must be dig­ged, then a foot deep of good mould put into it, and half a foot of very rotten dung upon it: These must be well mi­xed, and the filling of the Trench conti­nued in the same manner with mould and dung, until it be half a foot higher than the rest of the ground; and because that Wall-fruits must be set with grea­ter care than other Trees, the Planter must be curious in causing better mould, such as that of Turfs, cut small, to be brought thither, if that which was taken out of the Trench be not good enough; and observe to put in a double proporti­on [Page 72] of mould to that of dung. Such as cannot at the first make Trenches so large, must be content to open them at first but four foot wide, and two or three years after to inlarge them, accor­ding as the Trees shall have need of it.

When Dwarf-standers are to be planted, sometimes it is necessary to dig Trenches, and to fill them with the same care as those for Wall-fruits; and sometimes also, it is sufficient to make holes of six foot square, and to dung them well: This difference depends upon the quality of the ground, and the goodness of the soyl.

CHAP. VI.

FOr the well-disposing of Trees in a Garden, there must be considered, [Page 73] The quality of the Soyl, its position in order to the Sun, and its Situation in re­gard of the Winds.

After the reading of the Chapter where the different qualities of grounds are treated of, it is easie to judge, that such Fruits as are tender, and full of moisture, are to be planted in those grounds that are most pleasant and dry, and the bigger Fruits, such as Pears and Apples, in those grounds that are stron­ger and moister: Because the first (to be tender, and of a good tast) do re­quire a dryer soyl, and the others, nee­ding a more plentifull nourishment, would have that which is more strong and moist. Now, as in generall, all such fruits as have stones, are more ten­der than those with kernels, it is better to plant them in a dryer and softer Earth: But, to be yet more exact, it must be observed, that among such Fruits as have stones, some are more tender than others; and that of Fruits with kernels, some are dry, and others full of moisture; and that they ought, [Page 74] therefore, to be placed in grounds more or less dry, according to their different qualities. For this cause, such Pears as are very sull of moisture, as the Win­ter- Bon Crestien, the Beurré, the Berga­mot, and the other Soft and ten­der Pears. Be­urrées, or Butter-Pears, are to be placed in the dryer grounds; and those Pears which are very dry, as the Amadote, and others of the like nature, in those grounds that are moist; because by this means the quality of the ground corrects the con­trary fault of the Fruit.

This is the reason why the same kinds of Fruit are better in one Garden than in another: And from hence the Bon Crestien Pears are of a more tender sub­stance, and a higher tast, when they grow in dry grounds, in which the A­madote is not so good, becoming too dry and stony; which, on the contrary, is excellent in moist grounds, where the Bon Crestien hath neither colour nor tast, because of the too much moisture, which makes its substance more rude nd gross.

[Page 75] Some grounds there are of so just a temper, and so sweet a constitution, that all sorts of Fruits, be they dry or waterish, tender or gross, do com to an equall perfection in them. In these hap­py Situations, the Observations which we have now made, are useless; such as plant in these, can never commit an Errour; and therefore this advice is onely proper for those grounds, which being without that excellent tempera­ment, do approach to the one or the o­ther extreme, and are either too cold or too hot, too dry or too moist.

Another thing necessary in the dispo­sing of trees, is, to observe their position in order to the Sun, and that especially in Wall-trees. Now there are four principall sorts of these Positions: One towards the East, upon which the Sun shines from its rising untill noon: The second, contrary unto it, towards the West, which receives the Sun from noon till night: The third is that to­wards the South, which is enlightened by the Sun from eight in the morning [Page 76] till 4 in the afternoon. The fourth, which hath the least Sun of all, is that which looks towards the North, and which sees not the Sun but for three hours in the morning, and as much in the after­noon, during the Summer Solstice. All other kinds of Positions are comprehen­ded under these four principall ones, and differ no otherwise, than as they do in­equally partake of the Sun, and enjoy more or less of its heat.

The best Position for Wall-fruits, is that which hath the Sun from eight or ten of the clock in the morning, untill the evening, or from the Sun-rising un­till two or three in the afternoon, be­cause that is the time of the greatest heat of the day. The other Positions are better or worse, according as they are more or less exposed to the mid-day Sun; those which have it onely rising or setting, produce no effect but in very hot Countreys, where two hours of the Sun ripen Fruits more than four or five in these that are cold; for, the ripening of Fruits proceeds as well from the [Page 77] Quality of the Ground, as from the A­spect of the Sun. From whence it may be known, that the severall sorts of Fruit are to be planted according to the Situation and Position of the Walls, and according to the Quality of the Ground.

That Position which looks towards the Sun-rise, and loseth it not till two or three in the afternoon, is best for ten­der Fruits, such as Peaches, Pavies, and Abricots, which in that site do ordina­rily bear more Fruit, and that also bet­ter and fairer coloured; it is also most proper for early and tender Pears, as the small Muscat-Pear; because the heat of the rising Sun being pleasant and encreasing proportionally untill noon, pierces the Fruit insensibly, and makes it more delicate.

The same sorts of Fruits prove not so well in the contrary situation, because that all the morning they keep some­what of the moisture and coolness of the night, and when the Sun begins to shine upon them about noon, passing upon a [Page 78] sudden from one extremity to another, they are too tender to resist its violent heat, which scorches instead of ripening them. This comes ordinarily to pass, especially in very hot soyles. Seeing therefore the sap of these sorts of trees is more tender and delicate than that of others, it is better to plant them in o­ther situations, and to set no Fruits to­wards the West, but such as are stron­gest, and Pear-trees rather than Pea­ches. Such, nevertheless, as have store of Walls, will not do amiss in expo­sing the same sorts of Fruits to different Sunnes, because, that in blooming­time there do arise cold winds, some­times from one quarter, sometimes from another, which spoyl and blast the blooms: from whence we see, that the same Fruits do take better sometimes in one situation, sometimes in ano­ther.

Those Walls which have the Sun from nine or ten in the morning, untill the evening, are the best for Bon Crestien, and Bergamot Pear-trees, and all other [Page 79] sorts of Pears that are full of moisture; because these fruits have need of a great heat to ripen them, and give them a good tast.

That Situation which sees not the Sun, but from one or two in the after­noon, untill night, is good for no other fruit but Pears; out of which also the Bon Crestien, and Bergamot, are to be excepted, which cannot come to ripe­ness in that Situation, unless in a terri­tory extraordinarily hot. In this Situa­tion may be planted some Abricot-trees, because their fruit will there ripen more lateward, and have less colour, & so will be more proper to be preserved; but they bear but little, for the most part, when so placed.

The best Situation of all for the A­bricot-tree, is that which looks toward the Sun-rising, for in that position it bears more than in any other. But yet, if from a Tree so placed, you would every year have good store of Abricots, you must be carefull, so long as the Trees are in bloom, to have them covered e­very [Page 80] night with Mats, or Linnen clothes to preserve them from the frost, and not to have them uncovered when the Sun shines hot, because that heat scorches the blooms, being already made tender by the frost and cold of the night. But in this covering of Abricot-trees, it must be observed, to put the Mats or Clothes at night upon the Tree, and to fasten them against the Wall, that they may be the better preserved from the cold winds; but in the day-time, to put them at some distance from the Wall, that the air may pass between.

Experience teaching us, that this care of covering the Abricot-trees, preserves their Fruit; every one may easily judge, that during the excessive heats of Sum­mer, especially such as come upon a sudden, it is very proper, to hinder the Sun from burning the Fruits, by cove­ring the trees from ten of the clock till three, either with leavy boughes, or mats, and not to bring them nearer than a fathom from the tree, that the aire may pass betwixt both. This care doth [Page 81] not onely preserve the Fruit, but doth also keep the trees alwayes green and vigorous, and defends the young shoots from being dryed and scorched by the too great heat. For the same rea­son it is, that in Countreys extraordina­rily hot, the Fruits must be left more co­vered with leaves; and in March the ground being newly stirred at the foot of the trees, there must be spread some long coorse dung without heat, five or six foot in breadth, and four inches thick, which must presently be covered with a little mould, to hide it from sight, that the beauty of the Walk be not spoy­led.

In the placing of great Plants, it is not enough to consider the quality of the Soyl, but it must further be observed, how they are exposed to the winds, that endeavours may be used to set them un­der shelter; for great winds do very much harm to trees: And for this rea­son trees prove better in valleys, (pro­vided they be not too moist) than upon hills, and high and open Situations, [Page 82] where they are too much beaten with winds: Besides that, in valleys the soil is alwayes better, because that the fat, and best moisture of the whole Coun­trey, descends thither with the Rains.

The Winds are to be feared, either for the Frost in the Spring, when the trees are in bloom, or for the Fruits in Autumn: And therfore, because Cher­ries, Plumms, and other stone-fruits, are early in bloom, and more subject to Frosts, it is best to plant them under shelter from the North, and North-west winds, because the South and the South-west winds being not ordinarily great, but in the Autumn, they cannot incommodate those earlier Fruits. But seeing Pear-trees and Apple-trees put forth their blooms later, and do better resist the Frost; if in planting them they canuot be sheltred, both from the North-west and Southern winds, it will be most convenient to keep them from the South-winds, that their Fruit may be the better preserved, which is not gathered till Autumn.

CHAP. VII.

SInce that, neither all Soyls, nor all Situations are equally proper for all forts of Fruits, It may easily be known, that, to order Fruit-trees well, it is ne­cessary to separate them, and to make particular Plantations of Pear-trees, Apple-trees, Red-fruits, and Plumm-trees, to the end, that each of these kinds may be placed in that Soyl & Situation, which is the most proper for it: Besides, that all these sorts of trees growing un­equally, and some of them coming to a greater bigness than others, they must of necessity be planted in divers places, and be set at different distances, for they can­not be mixed together without hurting each other.

An order yet more exact, may be ob­served in the placing of trees, which is [Page 84] in every particular Plantation, to place all the trees of the same sort of fruit to­gether, and in the same Row; as all the A delicate small Pear. Roussellets, and so all other different kinds: In this, neverthelesse, every man may use his own discretion, and place them according to his fancy. The keeping of a more exact order in the placing of Wall-sruit is likewise indif­ferent, so that the severall sorts be ex­actly put in such Situations, as are most proper for them. The same sorts of Fruit may either be set all together, or else mixed with others: In this every one may follow their own inclination; Nevertheless, in making a great Plan­tation, I think it very convenient to se­parate such Pears as are to be eaten raw, from the baking Pears, the Sum­mer-fruits from the Winter, and to plant every kind by it self; because the seasons of their growing ripe, being dif­ferent, they are more easily gathered, when set apart by themselves; and in such Plantations as are for Sider, it is [Page 85] very convenient to separate the diffe­rent sorts of Apples, because each sort makes its particular Sider.

Besides this order, the Planter must be very carefull, be it in Wall-fruits or great Plants, to set the trees at a conve­nient distance, according to their kinds, not too near, nor too far from each o­ther. That this may be done, he is to consider of the goodness of the ground, because the trees become larger, and grow further out in a strong, than in a light soyl. He must also have a regard to the winds, because, as the greater Plantations are more or less expofed to them, so must the trees be set closer or further from each other: For it is cer­tain, that trees defend themselves much better from the winds, when they are planted near together.

In good grounds, which are designed to be kept in tillage, that other things may be sown under the trees, the ordi­nary distance betwixt Pear-trees or Ap­ple-trees ought to be betwixt eight or ten fathoms: But if the ground be left [Page 86] for Herbage four or five fathom be­twixt each tree will be sufficient; and in places exposed to great winds, the di­stance must not be above three or four fathomes, because the trees being plan­ted close do preserve one another; In sandy and stony grounds it is good to keep the same distance, of between three and four fathomes.

For stone-Fruits; as Plumm-trees, Abricots, Cherry-trees, and Hart-Cher­ry-trees. Vigarro-tires graffed upon a The small, wild, bitter Cherry-tree. Merisier, be they High-standers or Dwarfs, they must be planted at three fathomes from one another; but if the Cherry-trees be graffed upon Cherry-stocks taken from the roots of others, because these increase not so much in wood, it is sufficient to plant them at 12 or fifteen foot asunder, according to the goodness of the ground.

As for Peare-trees graffed upon Quince-stocks, planted for Dwarf-stan­ders in any sort of Alley or Walk, it is the custome to set them at every twelve [Page 87] foot, except it be in waterish grounds, where they must be placed at 15 foot distance, to the end, that being further from each other, they may enjoy the more Air and Sun. Yet when they are planted in a single row, they may be set between eight and nine foot from one another, because that meeting thereby the sooner, they do give a better shape unto the hedge; neither can they hurt each other, because they have aire e­nough on both sides: But if they are to be plashed upon a Pole-hedge on the o­ther side of a Walk from the wall, these trees must be placed at twelve foot a­sunder, and ordered in the same manner as those against a wall.

The distance of Dwarf Pear-trees, and Apple-trees graffed upon Tree-stocks (that is, such as are raised from Kernels) ought, in light and sandy grounds, to be eighteen foot, and twenty four foot in stronger grounds, the same as in great Plants; for there is no difference be­twixt them, save that the one are tall, and have a high stemm, and the other [Page 88] lower, and without a stemm, shooting out their branches at a foot from the ground, and are more under shelter from the winds.

As for Apple-trees graffed upon the Paradice-Apple, seeing that they grow very little in wood; the ordinary rule, when they are planted in many Rowes, is, to place them nine foot a sunder: But when one row is to be planted alone, they may be placed at every sixt foot.

In the planting Wall-fruits; Peaches, Abricots, and Plumm-trees, must be set at fifteen foot from each other in light grounds, and at eighteen in those that are stronger; for, all sorts of Pear-trees, they are commonly planted at eight, ten, and twelve foot, according to the quality of the soyl.

Those that plant Wall-fruits, do or­dinarily mix Pear-trees and Peaches to­gether, supposing by this diversity to render them the more beautifull, because by this means their walls will never be unfurnished: Indeed, the Peach-trees [Page 89] suddenly putting forth good store of wood, do in short time cover the wall, and then, when they begin to wast and diminish, the Pear-trees succeed, insen­sibly filling up that place, which the Peach-trees seem of their own accord to have quitted to make room for them; ne­vertheless, those that are more curious have found by experience, that it is bet­ter to plant all the Pear-trees by them­selves, and to set the Peach-trees and Abricots together, without intermixing them; because that the walls being set with trees that are equall, and of one and the same kind, are the more equally covered; and the trees themselves do thereby become the more agreeable, and easier to be kept in order. Besides that, Peaches and Abricot trees set upon a Plumm-stock do much eat out the earth, and rob the Pear-trees of their nourishment.

Those, notwithstanding, who are im­patient, till they see their walls covered, may plant their Pear-trees at a fathom distance; but yet with this resolution, [Page 90] to take away one betwixt every two af­ter five or six years, when they begin to endammage one another. This manner of placing the trees at every six foot, af­fordeth the pleasure of seeing the walls alwayes wel furnished, and also of ga­thering much more fruit in the first years; but it must be observed, to set two Pear-trees of one kind of fruit to­gether, that when one is to be ta­ken away, there may alwayes remain a­nother in his place and order.

Besides this care of planting the Pear-trees together, and setting them at the distance before-mentioned; it is also very convenient to intermix seve­rall kinds of Pears, and to plant Win­ter-pears amongst the Summer ones, those that are early among such as are lateward, whereby the pleasure may be had of seeing the walls alwayes furni­shed with fruit.

The same order may be kept in Wall-trees of Peaches and Abricots; and al­so when Pear-trees are planted in a Counter-hedge over against the wall; [Page 91] except that in such hedges, there must be planted neither the Bon Crestien, Ber­gamot, nor the Petit Muscat, because these sorts prove not so well in a Hedge as against a Wall.

One may also plant Muscats against a wall, and betwixt them, at every fif­teen foot, a Peach-tree, having a stemm of four foot high, without branches, that they may be plashed above the Muscat, and cover the rest of the wall; but then care must be had of planting onely such Peach-trees as are inoculated upon o­ther Peaches, or Almond-stocks; for such as are set upon Plumm-stocks [...]o feed too much upon the ground, & will rob their Muscats of their nourishment. Pear-trees may be planted also in the same manner, provided they be graffed upon Quince-stocks, and that the stemm be four foot high without branches as before.

In the planting of Avenues (leading to Houses) and Walks, two things are to be observed; The largeness of the Allyes, and the distance betwixt the [Page 92] trees. It is is a thing very difficult to give a certain rule for the largeness of Allies, because it ought to be proportio­ned to their length, and the Situation of their Avenues. It depends, therfore, wholly upon the ingenuity and prudence of him that orders them.

For the distance betwixt the trees, it must be different according to the di­versity of their kind: Elms and Lime-trees must be planted two fathoms from each other: Chest-nuts, Walnut-trees, Apple-trees and Pear-trees, at four, five, and sixe fathoms. As for Oaks and Beeches, wherewith they do ordinarily plant their Avenues in the Countrey of Caux, they must be set at no further di­stance than nine foot from one another. But Pines and Fir-trees at four fathoms asunder, by reason of their spreading of their branches.

CHAP. VIII.

TRees are not fit to be re-planted till their sap be wholly spent; for if there be any in them, when they are taken up, having now no more nourish­ment, they fade, and their bark, which is yet tender, grows riveld and dry, so that it is less capable of receiving the new sap, when it begins to ascend in the Spring.

The Fall of the Leaves in all sorts of trees informs us, when the sap leaves them; for it is that, by which they are nourished; and we see, that if trees grow yellow and sick, having but small store of sap, they presently cast their leaves: Now seeing that the sap fails sooner in dry grounds, than in those which are moist, it is certain, that in such grounds, trees may both be taken [Page 94] up, and also re-planted earlier: But to speak in generall, All Plantations are to be made in the moneths of November and December, and such as are soonest made are alwayes the best; except in such grounds as are too moist and full of water, where you must stay till Fe­bruary, or the beginning of March, to the end, that the roots of your Plants be not rotted by the water in the Win­ter, which having not yet taken again, are not strong enough to resist too much moisture.

A fair day (as I said before, when I spake of Nurseries) is alwayes to be chosen to plant in; because the earth is shorter and better to be handled, when it is dry; and therefore, for this reason, Plantations are never to be made in the time of Rain or Snow; to both which, the moneth of January be­ing mo [...]t subject, is therefore the most unfit to plant in.

The first care which must be taken, before you begin to plant, is to take up the trees well, without spoyling any of [Page 95] their roots, because that all their vigour depends upon them; they must there­fore be preserved as whole and as entire as is possible. Care must also be had in taking up a tree out of a Nursery, not to lay naked the whole root, for fear of harming those trees that are about it: But after that some earth is taken away from about the foot of it, it may be tur­ned downward half-way towards the ground, and drawn long-wayes gently by strength of arms: For by this means the roots are preserved entire from breaking, and the trees not endammaged that are left behind.

The tree being thus taken up with care, you must, before it be re-planted, pare off the ends of all its roots (taking away onely such as are too confused) and strip well from them all their small fibers or filaments, where there are too many of them, because these, when the tree comes to be planted, would other­wise clogg together, and hinder the mould from falling easily between the principall roots, and so from filling up [Page 96] all their vacuities: For this reason the Gardiner cannot be too carefull in ta­king away the small threds; for the greater and middle sort of roots never fail of putting forth new ones; and those which he leaves being too confused, do alwayes harm the tree more than they profit it; and the great roots must also in the paring of them be left as long as may be, and the cut must be at the end of the root, on the lower side of it, so that the cut may be upon the mould.

The roots being all, on this manner, refreshed and cleared, if it be a tree with a high stemm, and designed to be planted in the open air, the stemm of it must be pared off at seven foot high, and all the small branches and buds, which remain upon it, must be taken off with exactness; for, those shoots which open themselves a passage in the bark, and come out of the body of the tree, do alwayes grow up with the greatest vi­gour: But if the tree be designed for a Wall, or a Dwarf-tree, it must be left shorter or longer, according to the [Page 97] strength of its foot, the quantity of its roots, and the goodness of the soyl; the judgement whereof depends upon the prudence of the Gardiner: Never­theless, seeing it is necessary that such trees should put forth branches near the ground, to cover the lower part of the wall, in which the beauty of Wall-trees doth chiefly consist, it will be best, if the foot be not well furnished with bran­ches, to cut it very short, that it may put forth many: It is true, that a tree thus stopt, having no old wood remai­ning upon it, cannot so soon bear fruit: As for Peach-trees, they being very sub­ject to want boughs in the middle, must alwayes, when they are planted, be cut very short.

The tree being thus cut, must present­ly be planted, either in the hole, or in the trench prepared for it, and must not be sunk into the ground above the depth of half a foot: Afterwards, all the roots must be handsomly extended, without forcing or constraining them: And if it be a Wall-tree, the foot of it must be [Page 98] placed at ten or twelve inches from the wall; and so laid, that the upper part of the stemm or branches may come with­in two inches of it, that the new bran­ches may by that means be the more commodiously plash'd against it. When the tree is so placed, the roots must all be drawn outwards as much as may be, and brought from the wall, that they may thereby find the more nourish­ment, and be more plentifully watered with the rains during the Summer. Af­ter this, the roots must be covered with good mould, soft and light, mixed with some other mould from a bed throughly rotten, if such be to be had; for, this causeth them to take again the sooner, and put forth a greater quantity of fi­brous roots: Care must also be taken to furnish them well with mould, so as no void space may remain betwixt the roots: To this end, after they are cove­red with earth, the tree must be lifted up a little, and shaken with your hand, that the mould (being short and mo­vable) may fall, and slip between the [Page 99] roots, to fill up entirely all the holes.

The Gardiner must, as I said, observe in planting, not to sink the trees into the ground more than half a foot; for the ground being alwayes better above than downwards, the roots do there find the more nourishment, and are not so sub­ject to be rotted and spoyled by too much moysture: Besides that, being near the surface of the ground, they are more sensible of the heat of the Sun, and do likewise receive advantage by the dews and small rains which fall in Sum­mer; whereas, on the contrary, when the roots are sunk too deep, they are never refreshed by all those Summer rains, which are neither of such force or continuance to pierce into the earth more than a good half-foot; so that the earth which is beneath dries and har­dens it self about the roots, and affords them no more nourishment: From whence it may easily be conjectured, that the most ordinary cause which makes trees to grow yellow, proceeds from their being set too deep in the earth.

[Page 100] But seeing the trees so planted near the surface of the earth, may, for the two first years, suffer from the great heat of the Sun, having their roots yet too tender to resist it, it will be necessa­ry to cover them, by making a bank of ordinary mould a foot high above them, for the wideness of four foot round a­bout the stemm; the top whereof must be laid plain, that the waters may the better stop there, and pierce to the foot of the tree: It is further needfull in March, after this earth hath been well stirred, to spread upon it some long dung, that is not hot, the breadth of three foot about the stemm, and four inches thick: Or, if such dung is not to be had, to lay some fern upon it at the beginning of June, so that the earth may be kept fresh, and the roots preserved from the too great heat of the Sun; but if neither Dung nor Fern can be had whererewith to cover these banks of earth, then they must be stirred four or five times a year, onely the depth of half a spade-bit, for fear of harming the [Page 101] Rootes; and these stirrings must bee continued untill the Trees be strong, and so these banks of earth will by little and little be brought lower, by stirring them from year to year.

Now seeing that in trenches and holes filled up with good store of dung, the earth settles in proportion as the dung rots and consumes; It must be observed in planting, to set the roots of the trees level with the ordinary ground, because the earth setling in the trench, sinks lower, and carryes the tree along with it: This care must especially be had in the planting of such Pear-trees as are ingraffed upon a Quince-stock, and Apples upon a Paradise-Apple; because if these two sorts of trees be planted too low, so that the Graffs come to be with­in the ground, they will put sorth roots, and thereby cause the trees insensibly to partake of the Graff, and so to change their nature.

In cold and moist grounds, the tren­ches must be raised (be it for Wall-fruits, [Page 102] or Contr'espalliers, Hedges on the o­ther side of a Walk from the wall, made with poles, & the trees plashed in them. Counter-hed­ges) 2 foot higher than the ordinary ground, up­on which the trees are to be planted, to the end that being further from the water, their fruit may be better and fairer coloured; for they cannot have a good tast growing in such grounds as are alwayes moyst and wet: For this reason it is, that the sides of hills and higher Situations are the most advanta­geous for the goodness of fruits, be­cause the waters run from them with the more facility.

There may likewise be laid in the bottom of the trench, a bed of stones, of a foot deep, or else so much stony and gravelly earth, to draw the waters to the bottom, and cause them to drain away; upon which it must be filled up with sharp Sand, or Plaister-stone and Marl mixed with good mould, to di­minish the too aboundant moisture, and make the trees to profit the more, and to bring forth their fruits of a better co­lour [Page 103] and tast; it is also very good in such moist soyls at the beginning of No­vember, when the earth, at the foot of the Wall-trees, hath been stirred, to spread some Marl upon it half a foot deep, and six foot broad, which is to be buried at Spring, when the Winter-Frosts and Snowes have passed up­on it.

After that the trees are planted with the care above-mentioned, if the stems of the taller Plants be any thing feeble, it will be needful to strike in a stake at the foot of each of them, which must be strong, and of the length of five foot a­bove ground, to keep the trees steddy, and hinder the winds from shaking them. But this stake must be shorter than the stemm of the tree, lest it wry the branches that shoot forth.

It is further necessary, in such places where Beasts are pastured, to put thorns about each tree, to keep the Beasts from coming near it, or rubbing themselves against it: But because these [Page 104] thorns may grate and hurt the bark, which is yet tender, and so breed Can­kers in the trees, which kill them, their whole stemms must, before the thorns are put about them, be covered with long litter or fodder, and then be bound about with straw.

The same course must be taken with those trees that have been bred in a Nur­sery, where, having been alwayes sha­ded and covered from the Sun, their bark is so tender and delicate, that if it be on a sudden exposed to hard Frosts, and to the great heats of the Sun, espe­cially in a soyl that is dry and hot, it be­comes withered and base, whitish and mossy: For this reason it is, that to pre­serve it neat and handsom, it must, for six years, be covered with straw, untill the trees have gotten strength, and are accustomed to the open air.

Such as are curious, may further ob­serve, when they plant trees, whose bark is not well recovered again, to turn the back of the Graff towards the South, [Page 105] and the cut towards the North, because in that position it will the more easily recover; and if they remove such kinds of trees as are tender and difficult to grow again, such as are Fir-trees, and Pines, they must be carefull to set them in the same Situation, and so to turn them, that they may be exposed to the Sun and Frosts, in the very same manner that they were before they were taken up; because that by this means these tender trees, receiving the same impres­sions of the air, to which they were ac­customed, are scarsely at all sensible of their change: For this reason, when they are taken up, they must be marked upon their stemm which fide stood North, and which South, that in re-planting them, they may be put again in the same Situation.

The first care which must be taken, in the ordering of such trees as are newly removed, is, to take off all the buds from the High-standers when they begin to shoot forth, till you come to the heighth [Page 106] of a foot and half, above which no shoot is to be taken from them, untill the third year, when in the moneth of March they must be cleared of some of their branches, by cutting off such of them as are weak and uselesse: In do­ing whereof, the stubs or stumps must be, cut to the quick, and smoothed, and then immediately capped over with clay, that the bark may recover with the more facility. But Wall-trees and Dwarfs must be let alone, and suffered to put forth their sprouts at liberty, without taking any branch from them, during the first year; except that, if they shoot upwards too fast, it will be necessary to stop them at a foot high, by pinching them once to make them grow big and strong, and also to make them put forth such other small branches, as may furnish the bottom of the Wall.

The Earth, at the foot of Wall-trees, and such as are planted in Counter-hedges over against Walls, must be stir­red [Page 107] four times in a year, for the breadth of six foot, in March and October, to some depth; but in May and July, the depth of half a spade-bit onely, to kill the weeds, and to keep the mould short and capable of receiving the Rain in Summer.

In great Plantations, where Beasts are pastured, the Earth must be stirred four foot wide about the stemm of each tree four times a year: Bvt where the Beasts come not, all the ground must be ploughed, or digged in such places where the plough cannot passe, and sown with Wheat or Oats, each other year one; and care must be taken to dung it well that year when it is to be sown with Wheat, and to stir it four times in the year wherein it lies fallow: This course is to be continued until the trees be grown so big, that their shadow hin­ders the profiting of the corn; then the tillage of the whole may be let alone, and used onely about the foot of the trees, according as there shall be need: [Page 108] The often stirring of the ground hath this advantage, that it hinders richer grounds from chapping, and keeps those alwayes fresh that are light and san­dy.

In Plantations, where the trees stand at the distance of eight or ten fathoms, (so placed, because the ground may al­wayes be tilled and sown) there is no further care to be taken, for that which is used about ordinary tillage, but onely that such as plough them must take heed that the plough spoyl not the trees by coming too near them.

For the well-ordering of Dwarf-stan­ders, it is necessary to stir all the ground about them four times a year with a spade, or a forked pick-axe, not sowing any grain upon it, save only in the midst of the Alloys, where it may be sown; and, nearer the trees, to the distance of four or five feet from them, may be made beds of Strawberries, and other small Sallad-herbs; for, other herbs and flowers being planted in the tillage [Page 109] above their roots, do wrong the trees; except onely Anemone's and Ranunculus, which may be set at the foot of the Wall, because they have but few leaves and roots: For the same reason there may be planted upon the border of the tillage, at six foot from the trees, a row of Strawberry-plants.

Such as plant Pear-trees and Apple-trees in Avenues, along the wayes, or about the sides of their grounds, should put none there but such as have a very high stem, such as are the Apple-trees, which they call De Manerbe, and Haut­bois, or the Long-Apple-tree: For be­sides that, these two kinds have alwayes a fair stemm; they do alwayes form their heads round, with tall and strait boughes, so that loaden Carts cannot touch them; and their Fruit is not sub­ject to fall, yet excellent for Sider. A­nother care must be, to plant there no Fruits which are good to be eaten in Summer, lest instead of fruits they re­ceive nothing but a displeasure.

[Page 110] For the well planting and ordering of Avenues, be they Elmes, Lime-trees, Chest-nuts, Wallnut-trees, Pear-trees, or Apple-trees, the same care must be had which is used in great Plantations of Fruit-trees; but as for Oaks and Bee­ches, the manner is very different: for these must be planted whole, without heading them, so as you must be con­tent onely to prune them, and to cut off their branches at two or three inches distance from the stemm, untill you come within three foot of the top; then you must put them in the ground with all their roots, and cover the foot of each with a bank of earth two or three foot high, rising to a point towards the stemm, which must be pressed close, and beaten, to uphold the foot of these trees, and to hinder them from being shaken by the winds, because, that being plan­ted at twelve or fifteen foot high, with all their top, they are subject to be over­turned by them: For the same reason these banks of earth must not be taken [Page 111] away, nor stirred, till after five or six years, when the trees have taken a firm root; but it will suffice to open a small trench about them, which may retain the waters to moisten and nourish the roots.

Fir-trees and Pines, being very diffi­cult to take root again when they are removed, must of necessity be replanted while they are very young, when they are not above four or five foot high; their branches also must not be taken off, nor their roots be cut, unless such as have been hurt; but they must, when they are planted, be banked with earth, as the Oaks and Beeches, & not be pru­ned before they are grown very big: And even then you must observe, in the cutting any branch from them in the moneth of March, to rub the wound immediately with Hogs-dung or Cow-dung, to hinder the gumm from issuing out, because that doth very much wrong these kinds of trees, and often causes them to dye.

[Page 112] Such as have brought them up from seeds (as I have before mentioned) may, when they are three or four foot high, take them up with the earth about their roots, to set them where they are to grow: Or if they desire to transplant them with more security, they must dig a trench at three or four foot distance a­bout the tree, betwixt two and three foot deep, and in a hard frost undermine this heap of earth, so as to take it up whole, and transport it so into the hole prepared for it. This is a most excellent way of transplanting trees, because that so they may be planted again entire, it being needlesse to cut any of their boughs.

CHAP. IX.

THe skill of Pruning and Plashing Trees well, be it against a Wall, in a Counter-hedge, or in Dwarf-trees, is that which is most considerable about them, because that all their handsom­ness and their preservation depends up­on it; it is a thing very rare among Gardiners, for the doing of it well de­pends more upon their ingenuity than upon their hand: It is also very hard to give instructions for it, because it con­sists not in certain and generall Maxims, but varies according to the particular circumstances of each tree, so that it depends absolutely upon the Gardiners prudence, who ought of himself to judge what branches must be left, and which are fit to be cut away; and there­fore [Page 114] may be learned more easily by Ex­perience than by a Discourse.

There are many different wayes of plashing: That which is performed with nails, and little pieces of leather or lists of Cloth put about the branches, can­not be used but upon walls coated with Plaister, because upon others the nails will not hold. This fashion of plashing is of all others the most neat, by it the trees are best extended, and most hand­somly couched, making a kind of Ta­pestry of Greens very agreeable; it is also commodious, in asmuch as by it the boughs are better conducted, with more case and less constraint: Nevertheless, it is better for Pear-trees than Peaches, because the Pears having a long stalk, do bear off and separate themselves the better from the wall, so that they ripen very well: But the Fruit of Peach-trees, Pavies, and Abricot-trees, is fa­stened so close unto its branch, and re­mains thereby so joyned to the wall, that it cannot ripen equally on all sides. [Page 115] Lists of Cloth are better for this use than Leathers, for the Rain and Sun spoyl them not, nor cause them to shrink up. In this sort of plashing, you must be carefull not to girt the list too close about the branch, and to fasten the nayl beneath it: For the branch tend­ing naturally upwards, and drawing to­wards the top of the tree, batters and hurts it self when it meets with the nail about it: This kind of plashing is both the most convenient and the handsomest of all others, but it is also much the lon­gest in doing, and that which requires the greatest care.

Some few years since, an Invention hath been found out of fastening into walls the bones of Sheeps feet, and pla­shing the trees to them: This way is not so handsom as that with nailes, be­cause these bones alwayes appear be­twixt the leaves. It is likewise not so commodious, for these not being to be placed alwayes where they ought, the boughes must often-times be [...] [Page 116] [...] [Page 117] [...] [Page 108] [...] [Page 109] [...] [Page 110] [...] [Page 111] [...] [Page 112] [...] [Page 113] [...] [Page 114] [...] [Page 115] [Page 116] forced before they can be fastened to them; Those that will make use of them, must fasten them so into the wall, that they appear not without it more than a full inch; and they must be placed at the distance of four or five inches from one another, that being so near, some of them may be found fit to fasten each bough unto without forcing it: This way of plashing hath this advantage, that it lasts long, and requires no cost to be maintained, seeing there needs no more than a Bulrush in Summer, and small Oziers in Winter, to tye the branches to them: In those Countreys where these bones are scarce and diffi­cult to be procured, they may be set at two foot distance from each other, and have little rods fastened to them in the fashion of a Lattice, upon which the boughes may be plashed: But in this case the bones must be set two full in­ches out of the wall, that the rods may with the more ease be tyed to them.

The way of plashing upon squares [Page 117] made of round Poles, is not so hand­some and sightly as the rest, and it costs more; but then it hath this advantage, that the Fruits ripen well upon it; for being not at all kept close to the wall, because of the thickness of the Trellis, they do the better enjoy the heat and aire, which pass easily behind the bran­ches. Those kind of Palissades must be often renewed, if they be not made of good wood, as of Oak, Chestnut-tree, or Ash. In making this Trellis, all the bark of the Poles must be taken off care­fully before they be used, because so they will last the longer; besides that, Ear-wigs, Caterpillers, and other small Vermine, which spoyl both the blossoms and fruit, cannot there find any place to hide themselves.

The best invention of all, and that which is the most commodious, which lasts the longest, and is easiest, and of least cost to be maintained by Gardi­ners, is, to make the Trellis of Laths of a full quarter of an inch square, and of [Page 118] nine or ten foot long, or more, if it may be, according to the heighth of the wall: These laths must be placed in squares at nine inches distance, and tied with Iron or Brass wire, and must be upheld by small Iron hooks fastned in the wall in a strait line, at three soot and a half from each other, and two inches without the wall: This kind of Trellis is costly at first; but because it lasts long, and is easily kept, it proves the best of all, and of least charge.

There are some, who, to make their Pa­lissades the handsomer, do cause wood to be sawn two inches square, and then have it cut and framed by a Joyner, in the fashion of a Window-frame: But this Trellis lasts not so-long by much, as those which are made of cleft wood, because that wood which is sawn moul­ders and rots quickly.

Before you begin to plash, you must, as I said before, leave the trees to sprout at full liberty for the first year, without taking off their buds, or stopping them, [Page 119] and then stay till February or March of their second year, before you being to cut them, or fasten them to the wall, because their first shoots are so tender, that you cannot plash them without forcing them, which changes them very much: Notwithstanding, when Peach-trees, Abricot-trees, and even Pear-trees, do sprout too strongly in their first year, you must nip the ends of their principall boughs which rise too fast, and then extend and fasten them to some of the laths, to preserve them from the winds, and to give them their first shape.

Trees may be pruned all the Winter long, but it is better to stay till the hard frosts be over, and not to begin till the end of February in the wane, and so from that time untill the end of March, espe­cially for weak and tender Trees, as Peaches and Abricots, which are very subject to the Frosts.

Great Trees, standing in the open air, may be pruned and cleared of their [Page 120] wood untill the end of April; but if any great boughs be cut from them, you must observe to cut them close to the body of the Tree, and to cap or cover them presently; for if the wood, where it is cut, remain uncovered, and open unto the air, it rots and causeth a hol­lowness in the body of the stemm, which increasing by little & little, gets at length into the heart of the Tree, and kills it.

The same accident happens to bran­ches ill cut, because of the stumps there left, which hinder the recovering of the bark: Therefore the Gardiner cannot be too carefull in taking off branches from his Trees, to cut them all very smooth, and near the stemm, and if they be great, to cover them immedi­ately with Galt or Clay, wrought with Hay or Moss, to keep them from the heat and scorching of the Sun, which hinders the sap from coming to the cut; those Chissels which Joyners use are ve­ry commodious to cut off the greater boughs smooth and handsom, doing it [Page 121] much better than either Bill or Saw. The great trees being thus cleared and discharged of all their confused and use­less boughes, do ordinarily put forth great store of false sprouts, which must every yeare be taken off with great care.

To plash young trees planted against a wall, after that the useless branches are taken off, and such as cannot well be brought unto the wall, you must be­gin with the Master-bough, which must form the body of the tree: this must be placed strait upwards, without leaning towards either side, and must be left shorter or longer at the top, according to the strength of it, and of the tree: After which, all the rest of the branches must be put in order on either side, and some of them laid, if it may be, within half a foot of the ground, to cover the lower parts of the wall: In plashing of these, you must guide them all, like the fingers of a mans hand when it is o­pen, or like the ribs of a Fan when ex­tended; [Page 122] and care must be taken not to force or bend them, bowing like a Cats back, for if they be so forced, they make, as it were, an Elbow; where the sap stopping alwayes puts forth a false shoot, which takes away all the strength from the remainder of the bough, and hinders its growth: For this reason, the tops of the boughs must never be fast­ned lower than the place out of which they grow, but must still be conducted along, somewhat ascending.

Observe likewise, that the branches must not be crossed, nor passed one a­bove another, nor two fastned in one place; but they must be separated from each other, and set a convenient di­stance according to the number of them and the strength of the Ttree.

Sometimes, nevertheleless, the Gar­dinar is constrained, when the trees are old, and unfurnished with boughs in the middle, to turn the smaller bran­ches upwards, and to bring them to­wards the stemm to preserve the beauty [Page 123] of the tree, and hide such places as are void and unfurnished: This want of boughs doth ordinarily befall to the tree, through the ignorance of the Gar­diner, for want of his guiding them well at the first; or through his negli­gence in pruning them, taking away their shoots, and plashing them in such seasons as are proper for them: For it is certain, that most trees become not unfurnished of boughs, but onely be­cause they have been neglected, or else cut and plashed inconveniently and out of season: And Experience lets us see, that it is easie, with a little care and skill to keep them alwayes fair and well furnished with boughs, and to make them last a very long while, bearing fair fruit.

In pruning and stopping the growth of the boughs, care must be taken fur­ther, to cut one short betwixt two long ones, that being unequall when they come to spring, the middle of the tree may be the better furnished: In the [Page 124] same manner must the branches of Dwarf-standers be cut, because that each branch, which is cut, doth put forth many more; and therefore being cut all of the same height, they cause a confusion of branches on the top of the tree, and the midst of it in the mean while remains unfurnished, because the sap desires alwayes to ascend, and runs more willingly into the higher boughs, than into those that are lower: For which reason it must be stopped by this unequall cutting of the bran­ches.

The pruning depends principally upon the prudence of the Gardiner, which he ought diversely to practise, according to the different qualities of the trees, & according to their strength: It being cer­tain, that they must be cut more or less short, according as their force is. I have seen some trees which the Gardiner durst not cut nor stop very much, because that being in very good ground, their sap was so plentifull, that, if it were stopt [Page 125] never so little, it would cast it self into the buds which would have born fruit, and make them grow into wood: For this cause the pruning must be perfor­med with skill and judgement, and not without great care; for it contributes very much, not onely to the fairness of the Fruit; but is further absolutely ne­cessary, for the keeping of the trees a long time strong and vigorous.

The importance of this care is not so visible in the first years; because at the first, the trees do alwayes spring with great force, and do appear fair, although they be not well ordered: But when this first vigour is past, men may pre­sently begin to perceive a great diffe­rence; for they see such as have been neglected, to diminish and come to nought in a short time, and the others on the contrary, to maintain themselves alwayes in their strength; It being an effect of their cutting, which renews the trees by little and little from year to year.

[Page 126] Pear-trees may be pruned all the Winter long; but the best season of do­ing it, is (as I said before) that of the Wane in February; This pruning is to be put in practise diversly, according to the quality and condition of the trees; for sometimes the boughs must be cut short, when they shoot forth too abun­dantly; sometimes also, it is neces­sary to take off the young wood, and to preserve the old, that they may bear the sooner; and sometimes it is not amiss to cut off the old worn-out boughs, which have no strength left, and to let the young ones grow in their places, that the trees may be renewed, and, as it were, made young again. And a­gain, sometimes it is sufficient to clear them, by taking away those branches that are too confused.

But that which the Gardiner, in pru­ning of his trees, is principally to look after, is, that he leave neither the foot nor the body of the trees too much un­furnished: For this reason he must cut [Page 127] them rather too short, than leave the boughs too long, taking most from the highest branches, & such as are towards the top of the wall, because these draw all the sap to themselves, and leave the bottom of the tree unfurnished: This is the cause that Peach-trees are so diffi­cult to be kept; Experience teaching us, that if the Gardiner do not perfectly understand the way of cutting them, and taking their sprouts away, as they ought to be, they will be ruined in six or se­ven years, although, that being well or­dered, they may last more than twenty years.

Trees to be well pruned, must have their boughs every year refreshed more or less, according to their force, by cut­ting away the wood that springs, in the moneth of August (which being the shoot of the latter sap cannot be ripen­ed) unless it be necessary to preserve it for want of better, or that it be found to be strong and well nourished.

Those boughs also that shoot too fast, [Page 128] be stopped and kept shorter than the o­thers; for they draw all the sap to them, and wrong the rest which are weaker: but the Master-bough must alwayes be preserved, being that which grows strait upwards; so stopping it from year to year, that it may always be the stron­gest, and maintain the shape of the tree. Those boughes also which are weak and small, must be shortened, and those which are disposed to bear fruit the year following; to the end, that they may grow strong, and that their buds may be the better nourished.

It is further necessary, to prune those branches that are full of fruit-buds, for the too great quantity of blooms con­sumes the trees: Besides that, from thence the fruits do become less fair; but in the pruning of these, it must be observed, to cut them above a leaf-bud, and as near to it as may be, for two rea­sons: The first is, because by that means the fruit will profit the more; for when it is not covered with leaves, it [Page 129] dries, and seldom arrives to its naturall perfection, or to be so good as others: The second, because so the branch will recover it self that very year; whereas, if it be cut higher, and far from a leaf-bud, there will remain a little stump at the end of the twigg, which dries up, and cannot recover it self in two or three years: As for such boughs as are taken wholly off, they must (as I have often said) be cut as near the stemm as may be, for so they will recover the sooner, and that without making any knot.

The pruning of Peach-trees must be the last of all, and then when they be­gin to spring, and are ready to flower; because their young wood is so tender, that if it be cut it will be dried and spoy­led upon the least frost, from whence a great many of the smaller twiggs dye, and must oftentimes be cut again the se­cond time.

Dwarf-standers, which are planted in open aire, must be pruned as those that are planted against a wall; that is, [Page 130] such boughs as grow too fast, must be shortened; those that are vveak must be stopped, to make them grovv bigger; those that are useless, must be taken a­vvay; and if they shape not the tree vvell, they must, in their first years, be fastened unto frames, to give unto the trees that roundness and fashion vvhich you desire.

Some Gardiners there are, so igno­rant, that they clip their Dvvarf-trees vvith shears, to shape them into a bush, and to keep them the more neat, not knovving or considering, that by this means there is a confusion of branches caused upon the tops of their trees, vvhich dravv all the sap unto them, and leave the foot unfurnished; and that the same confusion of branches so chokes up that little fruit vvhich they bear, that it can neither prosper, nor have a good tast: For this reason these sorts of trees must alvvayes be cut vvith a pruning-knife, those boughs being kept lovv, vvhich do shoot up too much, and those [Page 131] taken away, which are superfluous, to preserve thereby those in the midst of the tree, being those that ordinarily do bear fruit.

Plum-trees & Cherry-trees must not be cut or stopped on the top, but onely cleared and discharged of their useless wood within the tree; and for this reason they are not proper to be kept as bushes or dwarfs.

The trees being thus pruned and plashed with care; as soon as the sprouts begin to appear, and during the mo­neths of May, June, July, and August, you must, in the Wane of the Moon, break the false shoots and sprouts which come before and behind the stemm, and cut off those that shoot upon the elbow of such boughs as are bent, because that these false shoots do carry away all the sap of tree, and the nourishment of good boughs; you must likewise pinch such as rise too high, to make them fork, and furnish the body of the tree; but then you must be carefull to do it seaso­nably, [Page 132] before they be too long and too hard; for then they put sorth spriggs onely at the second or third last leaf-buds, and do not furnish themselves to­wards the foot; but if the Gardiner hath not been carefull to take off the false shoots from his trees in season, so that they are now grown too hard, he must be content to cut them at two or three inches from the bough, to retain that sap within the body of the tree, which these would carry away, and stay till the Winter following before he take them quite off; for so long as the tree is in its sap, you must never, except in case of great necessity, cut off any branch from it, nor make the least inci­sion upon it, for fear of harming it.

The Gardiner must be carefull, as I have said, in pruning his trees, & taking off the shoots, not to leave them too naked; it being as dangerous to take a­way too much wood from them, as to leave them too confused; he must there­fore consider the goodness of his [Page 133] ground, the force of the tree, and the manner of its springing, whether it be with more or less vigour: It being cer­tain, that if he pinch or stop those too much, which are of great strength, he destroys all their Fruit-buds, and makes them spring to wood; and, on the contrary, he alters and dries up those that are weak and languishing.

It is also of importance, that he take notice of the kind of the tree which he is to prune; for, as there are some sorts of Pear-trees which do not so well fur­nish themselves with boughs as others, such as the Rousselet, the Cuisse-Madame, and the Jargonelle, it is easie to be jud­ged, that he must stop and pinch them shorter and oftener, to force them to put forth, and to furnish themselves with a greater store of branches. He must further observe, in the ordering of Peaches and Abricots, that these kinds of trees, having very much sap, become unfurnished in the middle, and come to ruine in a short time, if he let them [Page 134] grow too far, or stay too long before he pinch them; for the great shoots which they put forth, do not only carry all the strength of the foot to the top of the tree, but do also choke up the smaller branches that are behind, and those which fill up the middle of the tree, and do hinder the fruit from having a good tast or colour: He must therefore fa­sten, to the wall, all those branches as they shoot, and plash the Peach-trees and Abricot-trees oftener, and with more care than the Pear-trees, because that having more sap, they put forth their shoots with more force.

When the Wall-trees are grown to the top of the wall, and the Dwarfs ex­ceed the heighth, which they ought to have, or if they grow crowned, and are worn out, they must be brought down, by cutting some of the principal boughs from the body of the stemm near unto some new shoot, that they may be re­newed, and grow with young wood: This must especially be practised upon [Page 135] ches and Pavies to make them young a­gain by little and little; for being whol­ly headed all at once, they dye, very seldome shooting again; except, not­withstanding, common Peach-trees, and those that grow of a stone, as those that are planted in the Vineyards, which are renewed by lopping.

Pear-trees and Abricot-trees, when they are past their strength, and bear no more fruit, but such as is small and base, may have their heads cut off in the Wane of the Moon in February, at a foot above their division, cutting them aslope, with the cut towards the wall, that it may be shaded from the Sun, for so they will put forth new branches, vvhich in tvvo or three years do make a nevv tree, and bear fair fruit.

If those trees, vvhich stand in o­pen air, have their bark base, and cove­red vvith moss, you must, in Winter, after a Rain, or in a misty and moist season, rub them vvith vvispes of stravv or stubble, that are very rough, [Page 136] and scrape off the moss vvith knives of vvood, that it may fall off. After vvhich, you must, vvith a Bill, take avvay the old bark to the quick; for the trees be­ing thus cleared and discharged, do shoot forth vvith nevv strength, bearing fairer and better nourished Fruit.

Sometimes also, trees may be renevv­ed by dunging & laying soyl at the foot of them; But, as I have said before, it must be onely vvhen they have need of it; for dung makes the fruit more rude and gross: When you find it necessary to dung a tree, you must in November uncover the root of it, by taking avvay the earth half a foot deep, and four or five foot vvide about the stemm, accor­ding to its bigness, so that the smallest part of the roots be laid bare, and then spread upon good, fat, half-rotten dung for the thickness of half a foot, till you come vvithin a foot of the stemm; for it can do no good to the greater roots, because the tree dravvs its nourishment onely from the small ones: aftervvards [Page 137] you must fling in the earth again upon the dung, and turf it on the top, that it may consume in the Winter: When the trees are not to be dunged, it is needlesse to open their roots every yeare, unlesse it be in dry and hot grounds, where it is good to uncover them in November or December, and leave them so till Winter be past, that the Snow and Rain may the more moysten the bottom of the ground: But in this case care must be had to leave the foot of the tree and the roots covered with a little earth, to defend them from the Frost: In o­ther soyles, if the Trees are not to be dunged, it will be sufficient in Octo­ber or November, to stir the ground well, four or five foot above the stemm.

When it is necessary to dung Ap­ple-trees, Peach-trees, or Abricots, inoculated upon a Plumm-stock, or Pear-trees graffed upon a Quince, it is enough to spread the dung upon [Page 138] the ground six foot round about the stemm, and so to digg and work the Earth and it well together with a spade; for the roots of these sorts of Trees spreading near the surface of the Earth, are easily sensible of the a­mendment.

CHAP. X.

ALthough the beauty of Fruits de­pends principally upon the good­ness of their kinds, and the vigour of the Trees; and though the excellen­cy of their tast proceeds from the quality of the soyl, and their positi­on, in regard of the Sun; yet can­not very fair. Fruits be had, unlesse care be taken, when they are first knotted, to pluck off and disburthen [Page 139] the Trees of some of them, when they have too many; for it is cer­tain that the sap, spreading into too great a quantity of Fruits, cannot make them to grow great, or nou­rish them with such abundance, as is necessary for their perfection: and therefore Fruit must never be left upon Trees but in proportion to their strength.

This care serves not onely to make the Fruits which remain, grow fairer and better; but it contributes very much also to the preservation of the strength of the Trees; and indeed we see, that such Trees as bear ex­ceeding full, and are not eased of their Fruit, do spend all their force, and ruine themselves in two or three years: This course is principally to be taken with large Fruits, and Winter-Pears, because they need much nou­rishment, and hang a longer time upon the Trees.

When there is too much Fruit upon [Page 140] the Trees, you must take off some of them at the beginning of June, ob­serving to leave but few upon the weaker boughes, because they have not sap enough to nourish them: And for the same reason, there must no more be left upon the stronger boughs, but in proportion to their strength, and not above one or two upon every knot, especially upon the Bon Crestien Pear-Trees; for by this means they become fairer without comparison. But in the taking of the Fruits thus, you must be carefull to break off the Pears, or cut them in the middle of the stalk with shears, and to wring off the Abricots, Peaches, and Pavies, that you loosen not, nor harm the rest.

When the Fruits begin to grow ripe, if the heads be not too great, it is good to take away, or turn aside the leaves that cover them, to make them better coloured: This must par­ticularly be practised upon the Winter-Bon [Page 141] Crestien, Violet-Peaches, and Cher­ry-Peaches, because their Beauty con­sists in the brightness of their colour: But for this, the Gardiner must take a proper season, and not uncover them but when it is convenient: For if he take away the leaves too soon, while the Fruit is yet tender, it dryes and burns away through the too great heat; and, on the contrary, if he stay too long, the Fruit remains without colour, and of a flatter tast: This care is very necessary in cold and moist soyls, where the Fruit being more rude and gross, hath need of a greater heat to ripen it well, and to give it a higher tast.

Every one may easily know the time that is the most proper for the gather­ring of Summer-fruits: But for those of the Autumn and the Winter, they must be left upon the tree as long as may be, because so they will keep the better; Except, notwithstanding, some of the Butter-pears, as the common [Page 142] Beurré, the Bergamot, the Summer Bon Crestien, which must be gathered before they be fully ripe, for so they may be kept the longer, and are better, and less harsh.

That Winter-fruits may keep well, they must be gathered in a fair season, and carried into the room where they are to be kept; such as are the best and most delicate, must be laid in rows upon the boards, and the rest laid on heaps, and so left, the windows of the room being open for about a moneth, untill they have sweat and cast forth all their water; then the Fruits must be dryed a­gain, & all the windows shut, & opened no more untill all the Fruit be gone out: But as soon as the room is empty, it must be carefully cleansed, and all the win­dows set open, that the air may carry a­way and dissipate the smell of the Fruit: The Winter Bon Crestiens being well wi­ped and dryed, must be laid without touching one another, in Presses close shut, and care taken not to handle [Page 143] them, but by the stalk, lest they grow black.

A warm Fruit-chamber makes the Fruits to grow yellow and ripe the soo­ner; as on the contrary, when it is cold, they keep the longer, and ripen later: It ought to be so placed, that it freez not within it, no more than when O­range-trees are kept in Winter: But if the Fruits happen to be laid up in such a place where the Frost may en­ter, they must be covered with straw when the Frost begins, and wet Clothes be laid upon that, the win­dows close shut, and not be touched till the Frost and Thaw be wholly pas­sed, and the Fruits throughly dryed a­gain.

CHAP. XI.

THe Diseases of Trees do alwayes begin from their Roots, and are never caused but by the ill qualities of the Soyl which nourishes them; it be­ing easily judged that since from the ground they draw all their Nourish­ment, if that be good, they must neces­sarily profit; and, on the contrary, must languish, when that either wants moisture, or else supplies them with such as is bad: For this reason, when a tree droops, it may be concluded, that the soyl wherein it is planted is not pro­per for it; and therefore either its place must be changed, or the fault of the earth must be amended: I know very well, that the cause of the langui­shing of a Tree proceeds sometimes [Page 145] from the ill kind of plant upon which it is graffed, and sometimes also from having been ill planted and ordered. But having already shown how good Plants may be chosen, and how Trees ought to be cultivated; I suppose, that he which plants, hath been carefull to choose none but good Trees, and that he orders them well, and therefore that they cannot be sick but through the fault of the Soyl, which either hath not been enriched enough at the first, or else is now worn out.

Trees do easily shew their maladies by their Leaves, which grow yellow; and by their Shoots, which are weak, languishing, and dry at the ends: Now seeing that Trees cannot suffer, but either from the too great drouth of the Earth, or else from its too much moysture; it is easily known, that if they complain for being planted in too moist a Soyl, they must be kept dry, ei­ther by stones, or some other of the means heretofore mentioned: But, on [Page 146] the contrary, when they suffer in dry and hard grounds, it is necessary for their cure, that they have the earth ta­ken from them in November, and all their Roots being laid bare, must have Hoggs-dung, mixed with good Mould, spread upon them, because this sort of Dung, being cold, refresheth and moist­neth the Ground, which is too dry, and takes away, consequently, the cause of the Disease. Drooping Trees may also be helped by opening the Ground at the foot of them; and when the mould is well stirred, covering it with Pidgeons-dung, spread two or 3 inches thick over all the extent of the Roots: Which Dung must be left so spread untill March, and then be wrought in and mixed with the Mould; but none of this Dung must be spread within a foot of the Stemm. Yet this is not enough for the recovery of diseased Trees, to have thus amended the Ground about their Roots, but it will be necessary likewise, in the months of February or [Page 147] March in the new Moon, to cut them very short, and so let them shoot out all the Summer at full liberty, without pinching or plashing them, except it be very little, untill they be ful­ly recovered.

When Trees grow dry, and die at the top, it is certain, that their evil pro­ceeds from their Roots, therefore must these be uncovered, and if they be yet sound and strong, the ends of each of them must be cut, and good Mould of Turfs, well mixed with Dung, must be laid upon them, and the top of the stemm must be cut off to the quick; for so the Tree having strength remaining, & not being as yet in its time of decay, shoots forth again, and renews it self in a short time: But if its Roots be rotten and spoyled, there is no other remedy but to stock it up, and to plant another in its place, after the Earth hath been changed and dunged, which cannot be otherwise than much vvorn out.

[Page 148] Seeing that the end and perfection of Fruit-trees is to bear Fruit, it may be said, that such as are in their full strength, and yet bear none, are defe­ctive: This default comes either from their having bin inconveniently graffed, or else by reason of the too great plenty of nourishment, which makes them put forth nothing but Wood, and no Fruit; the remedy for which, is to weaken them by taking away from them this their too great vigour: To this end, the Earth must be taken from the foot of them in March, in the Wane of the Moon, and the half of some of their principall Roots must be cut off: And if they be great Trees, the stemms of them may be bored through the mid­dle with a Wimble near the ground, and the hole filled with a pin of dry Oak: For by tormenting the Trees on this manner, they lose their too great force, and bear more; but the better and more assured vvay, vvhen these sorts of Trees are capable of be­ing [Page 149] graffed again, is, to re-graff them in a Cleft.

There are some sorts of Trees, as the Amadote, and some others, which do bear no Fruit, be it against a Wall, or as Dwarf-trees, untill they be old; I have taken notice, that the best way to make them bear, is when they are fit to be removed, to take them wholly up in November, in the Wane, and presently to plant them again in the same, or a­nother place, with all their roots, onely a little refreshing the ends of them, and cutting the tops of the boughs a little, as much as you would have done, had they not been taken up: Experience having taught me, that after this change they do, in a short time, bear good store of Fruit.

There are some trees also, which are subject to a contrary fault to that now mention'd, which ruine and consume themselves within a few years, by too much bearing: To diminish this rui­nous and mortal fruitfulness, their heads [Page 150] must be cut off, or their boughs shorte­ned to the half, two or three dayes after the new Moon in March, and for two or three years all their Fruit-buds must be taken off; for by this means (provi­ded that their roots be lively) they will grow much into wood.

Trees are also subject to other Mala­dies, as Cankers, which breed in their bark, and eat it, so that they cause the death of the bough whereon they are; Peach-trees and Abricot-trees are more ordinarily taken with this Disease than Pear-trees, because of the too great a­bundance of their Sap; To heal them of it, you must, as soon as it appears, cut off all the bark which is eaten with it, and even the wood that is infected by it; and if it hath eaten round about, the bough must be cut off under-neath it to the quick, and the Cut must immedi­ately be covered with fresh Cow-dung or Hogs-dung, and wrapped about upon that with Flax or Linnen, so that no air come to it: By this means will the [Page 151] Canker be stopped from going fur­ther, and the bough will recover.

There are also certain Worms bred betwixt the Bark and the Wood of Trees, which do them much harm; when they are perceived, they must be followed, & their track discovered with the point of the Pruning-knife, untill they be found: And if they be at the end of a bough, it must be cut off below them, and the opening which is made upon the bark, rubbed with Cow-dung or Hogs-dung, that it may the more ea­sily recover.

Caterpillers are very hurtfull to Trees or Fruits; for which cause the Gardi­ners cannot be too carefull to take them away in the Winter, and to take heed that in Wall-trees no old leaf remain betwixt the Tree and the Wall, because in such they shelter themselves: In the Spring, when the Trees begin to blos­som and grow green, an exact search is very necessary to take away the Cater­pillers, for then they run upon the blos­soms, [Page 152] and spoyl the Fruits as fast as they knot; they are the cause of the unhand­somness, which we see upon may Pears, for on that side where they have bitten or eaten them, the skin profits no more; so that the Pears increasing, but upon one side, become hunch-back'd, and of an extravagant shape. The time of the day most proper for the taking away these Caterpillers, is betwixt nine and ten in the morning when the Sun shines, be­cause then they run upon the Blooms, and the new Shoots.