Of a Hot Bed.

A Hot Bed ought to be made [...] Horse-dung, with some Straw [...] Hay amongst it newly taken from the Stable, and laid of what bred [...] and length you think that you shall have occasion for to make use of it may be laid a yard, or four for thick or more, binding it abo [...] with Hay, or Straw-bands, to ke [...] it handsomely up together, th [...] lay fine rank sifted mold on it fo [...] inches, or about 5 fingers bread in depth; then arch or roof it o [...] with Hoops or Sticks so as to b [...] up our Tilt, Mats, Straw, or w [...] else you intend to cover it wi [...] and being close covered, l [...]t i [...] ­n [...]ain for the space of 4 or 5 da [...] [Page 5]until the violent heat be a little [...]ver; and then give it some air, and [...]ow your Seeds thereon, endea­vouring afterwards as nigh as you can to keep it in a temperate heat, and when your Seedlings are green, air them at convenient times, when winds, and cold, or great store of wet will not much offend them, using besides Mats, also to cover them with Cup glasses, or Case­ [...]nts as wel when they are plant­ed on the second Bed (as now at the first) at all such times as are necessary, or else if such diligence be not used, you run the hazzard of [...]oosing many hopeful Plants.

As your Plants grow strong, either remove them to another Bed [...]ess hot, or else plant them in good earth here and there in your Gar­den, as you see good, watering them at all seasonable times requi­ [...]ed.

Flowers which are raised by Seeds from an Hot Bed, are,

• Africanes.
• Amaranthus.
• Blind-weed.
• Marvile of Peru, &c.

There are other choyce Seeds sown on Hot Beds, some of which more properly belong to the Kitchen-Garden, as Melons, Gourds, Cucumbers, early Lettice, &c.

Nerstertians, Flower in Septem­ber, and are raised from Seed sown on a hot bed in March, and when the Plants are pretty strong, and the heat of the first Bed faileth, they are to be removed with some of the same mould about the roo [...] [Page 7]to a second hot Bed, and in May removed from thence into good ground, and where they may be most in the Sun, till they Flower and bear Seed.

Bind weed, the greater kinde flowereth in September; and they are every year raised by sowing the Seed on a hot Bed, and afterwards re-planted in such order as other nice Plants are.

Amaranthus or Flower-gentle, do most commonly flower in Au­gust, or September, and they are raised from Seed which ought to be sown on a hot Bed in March, and to have them forwardly to bear good Seed, when the heat of the first Bed faileth, being now pretty well grown up, remove them with the mould about the root altoge­ther to another Bed, and then again im May transplant them into such places (the earth being made very [Page 8]good) that lie to the Sun where, they may stand all the Summer to Flower and Seed.

Africanes, or French Marigolds, flower in August or September; and are raised by Seed sown on a Hot Bed in the end of March, or the be­ginning of April, and when the Plants are grown up almost a foot, or at least when they are rea­sonable strong, they may be remo­ved into the Garden in good Earth in the out Borders where, they may have room, and stand in the Sun to Flower and [...]eed.

Marvile of Peru, do common­ly flower from July, until cold mornings check them; they are raised of Seeds which are to be set in the month of April in a Hot bed, and afterwards removed into the Garden, where they may have the most benefit of the Sun, and so will they flower the sooner, but it [Page 9]they bear not Seed the first year, then cover them from the cold in winter, and the next Summer they will be forwardly Plants for Seed; or the roots may be taken up at the beginning of Winter, and dryed, and kept in a box of Wooll, and being set in good mould again in March, they will then prosper.

Of Plants and Flowers raised of Seeds which are not sown on Hot Beds.

FIrst Sweet-Marjerom, and Sweet-Bassil, although they bear no beautiful Flowers, yet for their o­doriferous scent may properly here be added, because they are often put into Nose-gays, Sweet-waters, Perfumes, &c. Red-Sattin flower, Snails and Cate [...]pillers (Flowers so called,) everlasting Pease, scar­let [Page 10]Beans, Lupines, Candy-Tufts, Love-Apples, Stramonium, or Thorn-Apples, Nigella, or Fennel flowers, Herb mullen, Indian-cres­ses or yellow Larks-heels, Larks-heels or Larks-spurs, Corn-flower, Thistles, Fox-gloves, Tode-flax, or wild-flax, Snap Dragons, Colom­bines, double Holioaks or Garden-Mallows; these are Flowers raised every second year at the least, of which in order as followeth.

Sweet-Marjerom, is raised of Seed, it being every year sowed in April, upon good and fine mould, by reason it is often put in Nose-gayes, the pleasant scent thereof much comforting the Brain.

Sweet-Bassil, is raised from Seed [...]own in April, in very good sifted earth, and is commonly used for those intents and purposes as Sweet-Marjerom is.

Red-Satten-Flower, or French-Honey-Suckles [Page 11]flower in June and July, and they are raised from seed, being sown in April; but for the most part they flower not till the second year after they are sown, and then the Seed ought to be pre­served for increase.

Snails and Caterpillers (so called from the similitude they have with those Animals) are all the sorts raised from Seed sowed in April, which must be supported when they are grown, they cannot pro­perly be called Flowers, but they have very pretty heads.

Everlasting Pease, so called be­cause the Root continueth long, & they are call'd Pease, because the grain is much like unto Pease; they are raised of Seed sowed in March, which for the most part it is 2 or 3 years before it beareth flowers, & grain, & ought to be supported when it is grown up, the branches therof dying every year in winter.

Scarlet Beans, or Scarlet Ridney-Beans are raised every year or seed being set in good ground where the Sun hath reflection in the Month of April, they will climb up bushes or sticks set for that pur­pose, or being spread and fastened up to a Wall, their Scarlet Flowers make a pretry shew, for they have more or less Blossoms growing on them for several Months.

Lupines, all the sorts of them, are every year raised from the seed, being set in good mould in March or April, according as the season happeneth to fall out, for which your own reason may best instruct you.

Candy-Tufts, Flower in or near the month of July, and are raised every year from the Seed, being sowed in April.

Apples of Love are planted, not for any Flower they bear, but or [Page 13]the rarity of them, they are raised [...], which ought to be sowed [...]rank and fine earth in April, and [...]eing carefully watred afterwards [...]e fruit will be ripe about Septem­ [...]er.

Stramonium or Thorn apples, are [...]ory year raised from Seed, either [...]y these me which falleth from the fruit when they are full ripe, in [...]e same place where they grow, [...]r else the Seed may be gathered when it is black, and full ripe, and [...]ept until March or April, and [...]hen sowed in good and rank Earth [...] the Sun; but the best time in my pinion is to sow it in September of October, and then it wil yield good [...]eed the Summer following, this [...]lant is made much use of in Chy­ [...]geri [...].

Nigella, or Fennel Plower, doth ummonly bote or begin to Flower [...] deed June or July, and they [Page 14]are raised from Seed being sown [...] March or April; but I have set them grown again by the Seed th [...] hath fallen from them in the sam [...] place.

Herb-mullen, all the kinds ther [...] of do flower in May or June; a [...] they are for the most part raised [...] Seed: being sowed at the time a [...] other Seeds are; they usually bring forth Flowers the second year, yet the Roots of some of them conti­nue two or three years, or more.

Indian-Cresses, or yellow Lark [...] ­heels, flourish much in July, and are flowring more or less from the time until cold mornings come to nip them, they are raised of Seed which must be sown in very good mould in April; and it is necessa [...] to be very cautious of having good ripe Seep, for that is a man pro­perty in raising any sort of Plants o [...] Flower, for if the seed be not good [Page 15]you may very well fail of your ex­pectation.

Larks-heels, or Larks-spurs, do flower about the end of June, July or August, and they are raised of Seeds, which may be sown as other Seeds in March, or in the beginning of April: but the Seed that fal­leth from them will come up in the same place the next Spring; or if you please you may sow some of the Seed as soon as it is ripe, desen­ding it a little from the Frosts in Winter, and then they will be for­wardly, and bring forth good seed the Autumn following.

Corn-flower, or Blew bottles, there is of these Flowers many different colours, the most of which flower in June or July, the rost in August, they are raised from Seed, being sowed about September, and it will be ripe to gather again, towards the latter end of August the next year.

Fox Gloves, the most part of them flower in June and July, the rest in August; they are raised of Seed, which ought to be sown in good fine earth in April, and then in September, they may be removed and set in more handsom order they flower not until the second year.

Wild and Toad flax, of all sorts, flower in July and August, and the Seed is ripe about September, and it must quickly after that time be sowed again in such ground, and in such a manner as other Seeds are.

Snap-dragons, flower in May, June, and July, and are raised from Seeds being sowed in good & fine Earth as other Seeds are, they bear Flowers the second year, and the Seed is usually ripe in August; they may also be raised by setting th [...] slips in May or June.

Colombines, Flower about the latter end of May, and are com­monly raised by sowing the Seed in good and fine Earth in April, which in two years space will bring forth Flowers, and then the best may be chosen, and removed into places convenient, where they may stand three or four year, and in the in­terim you ought to provide, more to supply their room, casting the old away as little worth.

Double-holliocks, or Garden-mal­lows, Flower in August and Septem­ber, and they are most commonly raised by Seed, which may be sown in April, and then they will bear Flowers the second year, which in October the best may be made choyce of, and removed into the Flower-Garden, where they may stand some considerable time, for they last many years.

Double-Poppies, Flower for the most part in June, and are raised from the Seed, from which it bea­reth great store inclosed in a head w ^ch may be gatherd when full ripe, and the Seeds sown as other Seeds are quickly after; or else it may be sowed in March or April following but it will grow again for several years together by the same Seed that falleth down in the place where they grew, for they are very apt to prosper.

There may besides these many other Flowers be raised from the Seed, the most part of which are of longer than a year, or two years continuance, as;

[Page 19]

• ANemones,
• Asphodels,
• Auricula's
• Bears-ears,
• Bell-flowers.
• Bulbous-Violets,
• Cardinals flower,
• Carnations,
• Cistis,
• Couslips,
• Crocusses,
• Crown-Imperials,
• Cyclamen,
• Daffodils,
• Dasies, some few,
• Flower-de-luces,
• Flowers of Bristol,
• Flowers of the Sun,
• Fraxinolla's,
• Fritillaries,
• Gilliflowers.
• Helebores,
• Hepatica,
• Honry Suckles,
• Jacinths,
• Lady-Smocks,
• Liver wort,
• Lychnis Caleedonica,
• Meddow-Saffron,
• Meddow-Sweet,
• Mizerious,
• Moly,
• Narcissus,
• Night shads,
• Oxlips,
• Paonies,
• Pinks,
• Primeroses,
• Rosemary of Spanish-seed,
• Saffron,
• Sow-bread,
• Spanish-broom,
• Star-flowers,
• Strawberry-tree,
• Sun-flowers,
• Sweet-Williams,
• Sweet-Johns,
• Tree Night shade,
• Tulips,
• Winter Cherries, &c.

ALl these Flowers or Plants, may possibly be raised from Seed, but because the most part of them are more properly and better raised, either from off-sets, Layers, Slips, Cuttings, &c. we will in treating theteof, mention them particularly, as they are best raised and increased.

Anemones, or Emanies, as some call them, Flower in March, April, and May, accordingly as the sea­son of the year happeneth to be more hot or cold, and as the Roots were sooner or later set the choycest of these Anemones must be set in very good sifted mould in some place that is not too much in the Sun, in the month of Septem­ber; all those which have broad leaves may be set three Fingers deep.

Anemones with narrow leaves, flower about the same time as the other do, i. e. in March, April, or May, they must be planted in very good Earth as the former were in the month Octob. which is a month latter than the other; and if you desire to have some Flower very late, then keep of the worser sort out of the ground until February, and then plant them in some good Earth in shady place: some do put Willow Earth to each Root, the Root having been steeped some time before in warm water.

If the Anemones of all sorts like their Ground and prosper well; that is, having good Flowers, and large Stalks, they may then stand the longer e're they be taken up, as till June or July; but if they seem but weakly Plants take them up sooner; however, when the leaves become yellow and withered, it [Page 22]is time to take them up, in which operation great care must be taken that you break them not, for if you do, they prosper not so well when they are set again.

They may be kept in Sand a months time after they are taken up, and then put them in Papers, writing the names thereon, and so keep them in a dry and cool place until you set them again, great variety of these Flowers are raised from Seed: which Seed ought to be chosen from the best and strong­est Flowers, which is in or near unto May; this Seed must be ga­thered still as the Down riseth, or else it is lost by the wind, it may be separated from the Down by rubbing it in dry Sand; this Seed may be sowed from the middle to the latter end of August, in rich and very fine Earth very thick, either in Beds or in Boxes half a Finger [Page 23]depth, and when they appear above ground, you may then sift a little more light Earth on them, water­ing them a little at the first sowing; and in winter to defend them from the cold, you must cover them with Straw Mats, &c. born hollow that it touch them not, and in August following they may be taken up and planted again in order, where they may remain until they Flower, which will be in three or four years at the furthest, and then you may dispose them in your Gardens as you see good.

Aspodils, the most part of them Flower in May and June, they are increased by taking them up once in two or three years, and parting the Root when the Stalk is dry, and then quickly planting them order­ly again.

Lilly-Aspodils, and Spider-worts, Flower in May and June, they are [Page 24]increased by taking them up once in two or three years, and parting the Roots; they will grow in an [...] indifferent ground: August is th [...] best time to transplant them.

Auriculd's, or Bears ears, flow [...] in April or May, and it may pos­sible so fall that some of them ma [...] flower again about August, th [...] must be planted in rich Soil: the are increased by taking them up to wards the latter end of August, and parting the Roots, planting the presently again in very good & fin [...] sifted Earth, or Earth of Willow [...] in a place that is some what shade [...] and at a pretty good distance from each other, that they have roo [...] to spread; once in two years the may be taken up, that so the Ground wh [...]re they grew may [...] amended; var [...]ete of these Flow­ers are raised from Seed with muc [...] trouble.

[Page 25]Bears-Ears, see Auricula

Bell Flower or Sateririous, Flow­er about the middle of May, ma­ny of them grow wild, and may be digged up and planted in Gar­dens in Iune or Iuly, in a shady and barren place (not in fat Earth) wa­ [...]ering them a little; they are in­creased by parting the Roots; or by the seed sowed soon after it is [...]ipe.

Bulbous Violets flower from Fe­bruary until May, being increased by of-sets, and may be taken up and kept until August or September before you set them again.

Catdinals flower is but a tender plant, they flower from the begin­ning of Iune till August, and may be increased by parting the roots a­bout September, being set in very good earth, and carefully defended [...] [Page 26]the nipping cold of the Winter, or else it will not indure long with us.

Carnations or Gilliflowers, red and white, scarlet and white, pur­ple and white, of each of these there is many and great varieties, they flower in Iuly and August, and are increased by layers, or raised from seed, it being preserved from the strongest of them, and care­fully looked unto in Autumn, or else will be lost with the wind.

In the moneth of April these seeds may be sowen very thin after rain, on a Bed of good fresh Earth; and if the time prove dry after­wards, then water them a little, and when they are pretty well grown up, chuse a wet time if you can to remove them, and so plant them again in rows where they may stand in the East Sun; and it may be the next year they may bea [...] Flowers, and then you will per­ceive [Page 27]which are double to be e­steemed, and which are single to be rejected and cast away. And if you place them in pots, then fresh Earth is to be chosen; and observe as well in watering these, as most other Flowers or Plants that re­quire it, to water them in the mor­ning until the latter end of April, or thereabouts, whilst the wea­ther is indifferently cool, and after­wards when the weather is hot, it is best to water them in the Even­ [...]g; and if you suspect that your [...]ots receive too much wet by rain, then lay them down upon one side to prevent it.

Cistus, they Flower in Iune or Iuly, and are raised from seed being [...]owed in very good rich Earth, to­wards the latter end of Feb. or they [...]e increased by new Plants taken [...]m the old Tree, and planted in [...]od Earth, and carefully looked [Page 28]unto; the seed is usually ready to be gathered in August, or begin­ning of September, which must be diligently looked to or else is apt to be all lost.

Cowslips and Oxlips, flower from March until May, and some of them continue long in Flower, and they are increased by parting the Roots as Primroses are, yet they may also be raised by seed, if that which be good be chosen and sow­ed in very good Earth in Septem­ber; then the effects thereof ma [...] be seen the Spring following.

Crocusses, of which there is man sorts; those of the Spring flowe in February and March, and a [...] increased rather by the Root the by seed; they are very apt to gro [...] although it be but ordina [...] ground, and they may be taken [...] when the leaves are withered a [...] kept dry until October, and th [...] planted again.

Crocusses Autumnal, or Crocus­ses that flower in September or October, are most properly increa­sed by the Roots which are very apt to grow and increase, and when the Fibres are withered they may then be taken up and kept dry un­til about August, and then planted again. And if they stand more then one year they increase very much the more.

These Flowers may be raised of seed if it be chosen ripe and good, and sowed in very fine Earth, and once in two years removed in or about July, and set in good or­der, provided the ground be very right and good, so that they may there remain until they bear Flow­ers.

Crown Imperial, flowereth in March or April, and are increased by the off-sets, that you may have from the greater Roots being taken [Page 30]up in June, when the stalks are dry, and planted again in August.

Cyclamen or Sow bread (the Herb so called) that which is called the spring Cyclamen flowereth in April or May, the Summer soyl: Cycla­men flowereth in June or July, and the Autumn Cyclamen flowereth in August and September; They are not often moved, but the best time to transplant them is in June and July; they are raised by sow­ing the seeds soon after they are ripe, in light and good Earth, co­vering them from the Frost the first Winter, and when they are two years old they may be trans­planted.

There is several sorts of Daffodils, those that bear only one Flower ought to be taken up every other year in June or July, keeping only the principal Roots dry until Sep­tember, and then set them again, [Page 31]they flower in March and April.

Rush Daffodils flower in April

Bastard Daffodils flower in March, and if any will sow the seed of Daffodils let them sow it in Sep­tember, and let it remain three or four years, and then in June take up the young Plants and plant them presently in rows in good Earth.

The seed of the Sea Daffodils be­ing sown may stand ten years unre­moved.

Daffodils that have several Flow­ers on one Stalk, do flower in A­pril and May, and are for the most part increased by off-sets, nor are they to be often taken up because they endure well the cold.

Dasies flower in April, and are increased by parting the Root, and setting them abroad where they may not be too much in the Sun either Spring or Fall; and being [Page 32]watred a little they seldom fail growing.

Flower de-luces flower one kind or other of them from April until July, before they have all done, and as soon as the leaves are dryed down they may be taken up and kept dry until August or at the fur­thest September, and then order them in all respects as Tulips are, but there is some of these which may remain in the ground with­out removing several years, they may also be raised by the seed.

Flag-flower-deluces, flower in and near the moneth of May, and may remain several years in the ground, but the best time to trans­plant them is in or neer September and are increased by parting the Roots.

Dwarf flower-deluces, do com­monly Flower in April, May o [...] Iune, accordingly as the season [Page 33]ground, and place where they are planted happeneth to be, (which also causeth much difference in the late or early flowering of other Flowers) they increase by parting the Roots, and they will grow al­most in any ground, and may be re­moved and planted in September.

Flower of Bristol, Champion or Non-such, do flower from Iune or Iuly, and so they remain flowering more or less of them until Septem­ber, the Champions are increased by taking slips from the old Root, and planting them in August or September, which you must do eve­ry year, Non-such are increased by taking the young Plants which come up in March from the old Root, and planting them in ground that is not too hot or rank.

Flowers of the Sun, do com­monly flower about August or Sep­tember; and are yearly raised of [Page 34]seed sown in good rank mould where they may have the benefit of the Sun in April, and the seed is ripe in Autumn; this should have been mentioned before but that it was forgotten.

Fraxinella's flower in June and Iuly, and is increased by taking of new Plants from the old Roots in March, which will indure long without moving; the seed is ripe in August, and must be very dili­gently and timely looked for, or else [...]t will be lost, these may also be raised from the seed sown in Fe­bruary in very good Earth.

Fritillaries, Flower from the lat­ler end of March until May, and are increased by the Root which must be taken up in Iuly and plant­ed again in August, they are also raised from seed.

Galliflowers, either Wall-flower or Winter Gilliflowers do flower in [Page 35] March, April and May, and they are increased by slips being set in March, on a Bank under some South wall to defend them from cold in Winter.

Stock Gilliflowers do usually Flo­wer in April, and some of them continue part of the Summer: they are for the most part raised from seed, it being sowed in April which is the best time, it must be sowed on a Bed of good and fine Earth very thin, and when they are grown up a Fingers length or more, then in the most rainy time you can meet with remove them, and presently plant them again on the same Bed or of some other at a reasonable distance; and when they have remained so planted a while longer, then take them up [...]he second time, and plant them [...]rderly abroad, so that they may be well rooted before cold wea­ther [Page 36]that they may the better in­dure the Winter, there are some­times double ones happen of those which are sowed: but the most part of them which are double are raised from slips taken from old Plants which are double, which must be shaded and watred for a time after they are planted.

Queens Gilliflowers or close-Si­lences, as some call them, are in flower in May, Iune and Iuly; they are raised from the slips or bran­ches thereof, they ought to be se [...] in places that are somewhat shady and must be watred after they a [...] planted, they are also raised from s [...]ed.

Helebores, the black flowere [...] at Christmas, all others for th [...] most part flower in May and Iune they are raised from seed, and in­dure long in the ground witho [...] removing; and most of them a [...] easily made to grow.

Hepatica or Liver-worts flower in March, they are increased by parting the Roots, or by sowing the seed in Willow-earth, and after planting them forth in good and rank ground.

Honey-Suckles, (the Herb so cal­led) flowereth in May and Iune, and is raised from the seed, being sowed in any indifferent ground in February or March, &c.

Iacinths, flower from April un­til August if we consider all the kinds, and are increased by off-sets, being taken up and replanted in August; they ought not to be kept long above ground.

Lady Smocks double, flower in April for the most part, and are in­creased by parting the Roots ei­ther early in the Spring or else in Autumn, and planting them in ground that is naturally not over dry.

Liver-wort, see Hepatica. Lychnis Calcedonica, see Flow­ers of Bristol.

Meddow Saffron, flowereth in September and October; they are in­creased by the Root being apt to grow, and must be taken up when the leaves are dry; and so kept forth of the ground dry until the latter end of August or September, and being then planted or set they quickly flower.

Meddow sweet, one sort thereof may very fitly be here mentioned for the pretty Flower and Button it beareth: it is in its prime in May and Iune, it may be raised of seed sown in Autumn, in good Earth not too full of Dung but pre­ty moist, and then the roots will indure some years.

Mizerions, some or other of them flower from Ianuary unto April, they are increased by seed, or sowing the Berries in Iuly, in good Earth, and the second Spring they will come up, and in a year or two after they may be removed and placed elsewhere as is found most convenient.

Molys, the most part of them Flower in May and Iune, they are increased by the Roots, which may be taken up when the Stalks are dry; and the principal Roots only planted again, but they need not be removed often: it may also be raised of seed.

Narrisses, see Daffodils.

Night-shade, Flowereth towards the latter end of May or in the be­ginning of Iune, and is increased by Layers, or else by sowing the [Page 40]seeds in a Box of very good Earth in March, so that they must be housed in Winter.

Oxlips, see Couslips.

Paeones Flower in May, they are in­creased by taking them up in Octo­ber or September, and parting the Root and planting them again, they will grow in ordinary ground, and will indure seven years or more without removing: they may be raised from seed, but it is very long before they come to Flower.

Pinks Flower in Iune, and are in­creased by parting the Roots and Branches, or by sowing the seed; at the time, and after the same manner as other seeds are sown.

Primroses both yellow and red, which are most of all estemed and planted in Gardens, do Flower in or near the moneth of April, and [Page 41]some of them continue flowering all the year, they are increased by parting the Roots about October or November.

Rosemaries, the several sorts Flower in May, and are increased by slips, which may be set in March or August, and I suppose it may be raised from seed brought from beyond Sea, for I remember that Rosemary seed brought from Spain, into the West-Indies, did prosper very well.

Saffron flowers, see Crocus, but bastard Saffron is yearly raised from seed, which seed may be had at the Flowrists in London.

Sow bread, see Cyclamen.

Spanish-Broom flowereth in May, and is increased by Suckers or Lay­ers, or else it may be raised by sowing the seed assoon as it is ripe, [Page 42]and it will indure being set against a South-wall many years.

Star-flowers, do most common­ly Flower in several moneths, ac­cording to their kinds: as in A­pril, May, Iune, and some in Au­gust, and are increased by the Roots, and are taken up when the Roots are indifferently dry, and may be planted again in September.

Strawberry-Tree, the Flowers of this Tree are not so beautiful as the Berries, which are ripe about October or November, and there­fore is then in its greatest Splen­dour, it may be raised from seed or else by Layers, which having once taken Root by a South-wall, will indure some years very well.

Sun-flowers grow very tall, and do for the most part Flower in Sep­tember, and are yearly raised from seed, sown or set in March or April under a warm Wall.

Sweet-Iohns Flower most of them in or near Iune, and are increased by planting the slips abroad, in some moist time in the Spring, and then they will take Root and abide the Winter: there may be variety raised from the seed.

Sweet Williams and London-pride Flower at the same time, and are ordered as Sweet-Iohns are.

Tre-night shade, see Night-shade.

Tulips, of which in general there is three sorts, viz. Praecoces, Medias, Serotinas, early, middle and late flowering Tulips.

1. Praecoces, first of all Flower in March & April, and are increased from the Roots, by off sets they are to be taken up about the latter end of Iune, and so kept dry until September or October, and then set­orderly again.

2. Medias do Flower in April and May, and are increased by off-sets, and may be taken up about the beginning of Iuly, and kept dry until the middle or latter end of September, and then planted a­again.

Serotinas flower in May and sometimes in Iune, and are also increased by off-sets, and they must be taken and kept dry until Septem­ber or October, and then ordered and planted in all respects as the former.

In taking them up, if the ground be so stiff as to use a Trowel, you must have a care of spoiling them, but if the mould be so light and hollow that you can take them up with only your fingers, there is no danger.

And as you take them up, lay them on papers whereon the name of each sort is written; the Earth [Page 45]being taken clean off them, then lay them on a broad Floor to dry, and when they are dry take off the off-sets, which may be put into a Box or paper-Bag, with the name of each sort written on them; and in August plant all these off-sets.

All the other best Roots may be wrapped in dry papers and put in a Box, or Boxes until you plant them in September, or rather if the ground be hot in October, but in the interim you must look to them that they corrupt not by moisture, for if they do they will then become soft as you may feel, and then they are little worth.

When you plant them again let them be set in sifted Earth; in handsome Beds every sort by them­selves in rows, noting every row or bed of every sort, with figures on a piece of Lead, referring to such a place in your Book, or else [Page 46]note them by papers only that thereby you may know every kind, and how to dispose them when they are taken up again.

The most ordinary sort of these Flowers, if the Earth be good may remain two years in the ground if you please, before you take them up.

It is a good way for those that have choice Tulips to arch the Beds over with Sticks or Coopers Hoops, when they are budded and almost ready to Flower, that so they may be covered in the night to defend them from Frost, Hall, great Rains and high Winds, and also from extream heat, especial­ly when they are fully blown, for then a little Sun is enough for them; and so ordered they last in Splendour the longer,

When the leaves are fain, break off the Heads, unless it [Page 47]be of those you intend to reserve for seed.

Some increase Tulips by sowing the seed, by the which there some­times happeneth many new varie­ties: but see that your seed be very good and full ripe; The seed may be gathered about the middle or latter end of Iuly, and after they are gathered you may let them remain hanged up in the boles un­til the latter end of September or October, and then sow it in very good Earth: the ordinary sort in Beds not very thick or very deep; but the best way to sow the choice­est seed is it Boxes, and in the best sifted Earth you can get, the time is in March or April that they will begin to appear, and then a­bout Iune when they are two years old you may take them up and set them again, presently in rows, but it will be six or seven years before [Page 48]they come to be strong and beat Flowers well.

Observe to plant your off-sets first into the leanest of your ground, and then afterwards re­move them into better, and so art they more apt to prosper well.

Winter Cherries may be raised from seed, being sowed in its most natural time, that is, when the seed is full ripe, which is obser­ved the best time to sow or set all such seed that will indure the Winter, and indeed some seeds falling to the ground of their own accord grow again, whereas being kept until Spring with all the in­dustry that can be used will no [...] grow.

Now all these last mentione [...] Flowers or Plants may possibly be raised from seed, but we have particularly set down how each o [...] them are best increased, either by seeds, off-sets, slips, &c.

Many seeds must be gathered a little before they are full ripe, which may be kept in the Boles or Heads wherein they grew, and laid a little afterwards in the Sun they will come to a sufficient ma­turity, which should they be let grow until they are full ripe in the open Air, you run a great danger of loosing all by wind and wea­ther.

Of some Flowers, Flower bearing Trees and Shrubs, as are raised and increased from Layers, necessary for a Flower-Garden, as, • CArnations of all sorts. , • Gilliflowers. , • Hypericum frutex. , • Jasmines, , • Pinks, , • Roses, , • Shrub night-shade, , • Shrub mallows. , • Shrub-Spiraea. , • Spiraea frutex. , • Virginian bower. , • Woody St Johnswort , and • Woodbines, &c. 

OF such which are not before treated of I will mention as followeth in order.

Hypericum frutex or Woody St. Johnswort, flowereth in April, and is increased by Layers.

Jasmies Flower in July and Au­gust, and are increased by Layers.

Roses or Rose-Trees all the many sorts of them flower in Iune and Iuly, and are increased by Layers; they ought to be cut with the Sheers after they have done bea [...] ­ing; these may also be increased by Suckers or Inoculation.

Shrub night-shade, flowereth in May or Iune, and is increased by Layers.

Shrub mallows, Flower for the most part in August or September, and are increased from Layers.

Shrub Spiraea flowereth in Au­gust, and is also increased by Lay­ers, [Page 51] Spiraea frutex is the same. Virgins bower, flowereth in Iuly [...] August, and is increased by [...]yers; they are very fit to cover [...]rbours.

Woodbine, that which is double [...]wereth in May, and are easily [...]eased by Layers, being very [...] to take Root, these are fit to [...]er Harbours, and to be plant­ [...]y Summer-houses, or by Gar­ [...]-houses, &c.

Woodbine, which is of a more [...]lsh colour flowereth in Iune [...]aly, and is easily increased by [...]ers, and is fit for such uses as [...] Woodbines are.

Of such Flowers as are raised, an [...] increased by off-sets: • AConitum, , • Animones, , • Asphodels, , • Auriculas, or Bears-Bars. , • Bulbous Violets, , • Campanila, , • Cornflag, , • Crocusses, , • Crown imperial, , • Daffodils, , • Flower-de-luces, , • Fritillares, , • Gentian, , • Gentianella's, , • Iacinths, , • Lillies, , • Lilly-Aspodils, , • Mortagous, , • Medias, , • Meddow-Saffron, , • Moly, , • Oxlips, , • Peontes, , • Persian Lillies , • Primroses, , • Ranunculusses, , • Star-flower. , • Spider-wort, , • Tulips of all sorts , and • Wolf-bane. 

SO many of these Flowers have not been spoken of before are mentioned next following.

Aconitum or Woolfbone Flow [...] in April, and they are quickly [Page 53]terwards under ground again, they [...]e increased by off sets, which are very apt to grow, and may be ta­ken up and kept out of the ground until about August or September.

Corn-flags, they Flower in June or July; they are increased by off-sets, and must be taken up as soon as the Stalks are withered and dry, and kept out of the ground until August or September, and then you may plant several of the Roots to­gether, which are of the best of them, and the rest rejected as little worth.

Lillies Flower in Iune, and are [...]easily increased by off-sets, being parted soon after the Stalks are dry; nor need these Roots be of­ten removed, for they will indure in the ground many years.

Mortagons if we consider all the [...]inds, they Flower from May un­ [...]il August, and are increased by [Page 54]off-sets, being taken from the pri­cipal Root when the Stalks are w [...] ­thered; neither need they to often removed.

Persian-Lillies, Flower in Ap [...] or in May at the furthest, and [...] increased by off-sets; being tak [...] up and parted about Midsum [...] when the Stalks are dry, and th [...] planted again in August.

Ranunculuses or Crowsfoot, Flower most commonly in Ap [...] or May, and continue long Flower; and are increased by p [...] ­ting the Roots about Mid S [...] ­mer, when the Stalks are dry, [...] you may take them up; and aft [...] wards dry the Roots, and ke [...] them in Boxes until December January, and then plant them gain in good rank sandy Ear [...] parting the Root for increase, a [...] setting them a finger length depth in the ground, and w [...] [Page 55]they are almost ready to Flower, then water them often, with Pond­water, or if Spring water: then let it be such as hath stood in the Sun or Air, for two or three days, and the same may be observed for other Flowers: there are some Ra­nunculuses that are hardy Flowers, and increase by the Roots very fast, neither need they be taken up in several years.

Woolfsbane, see Aconitum.

Of such Flowers or Pla [...]s [...]s are increased by slips, cuttings and other wayes that have not been mentioned before, which may be put in the Flower-Garden.

• ARbor-vitae,
• Bastard-Sena,
• Bladder-nut,
• Campions,
• Dogs-teeth,
• Gilder-rose,
• Lavender,
• Marjoram,
• Mastich,
• Non-such,
• Ripe tree,
• Rosemary,
• Pomgranate tree,
• Sage,
• Stone crop,
• Southern-wood,
• Sumach,
• Syring, see Pipe tree,
• Time,
• Trefoil.

ARbor vitae, or Tree of Life so called, flowereth in May, and may be raised from seed or Layers,

Bastard Sena, Flowereth in May, and it may be raised from cuttings, seeds, suckers, &c.

Bladder-nut, this Tree or Bush beareth sweet whitish Flowers, and may be increased from Suc­kers.

Campions, Flower in June, and more or less continue Flowering until September, they are increased by slips; which may be taken off in August or September, and planted so that they may receive some Root before the severity of Win­ter come upon them.

Dogs-Teeth, (the Flowers so called) do [...]ower in March or A­pril, they are raised from seed which is brought over every year [Page 58]from beyond Sea, which seed may be had in London, of several that make a Trade thereof, they may be planted in only good Earth, not too full of Dung in or near Au­gust.

Gilder-Rose, Flowereth in May, and is most commonly increased by Suckers.

Lavender, the Tops of which is very sweet, and for that reason is often planted in Flower Gar­dens, and is raised from slips, which may be planted in the lat­ter end of March, if the time be seasonable, and the Spring for­wardly, or else in April is time enough.

Marjerom gentle, or Winter Marjerom, is of a sweet and plea­sant scent, and may be increased either from the slips or out­tings.

Mastick, (the Herb I mean) is of [...] very pleasant scent, and may be increased by taking slips o [...] bran­ches.

Non-such, most or all of them Flower in July, they are increased by taking young Plants in March from the old Roots, see before.

Pipe tree, flowereth from May until September, it is a nice Plant and not to be dealt with by any but the curious Artist.

Pomgranate-tree, flowereth in August or September, it is raised from Layers or Suckers; and be­ing planted in good ground under a warm South-wall, and a little de­sended from Frost in Winter till it become pretty hardy, it may then grow a tall Tree.

Rosemary, all the forts flower in May, and it may be increased by setting the slips in the beginning of the Spring, or in the beginning of Autumn.

Sage, those sorts which are sweet, or stripped, are usually planted in Flower Gardens, they are increased by setting the slips in April.

Stone crop (the Tree so called) Flowereth in August, and may be increased by Layers or cuttings set in March.

Southernwood, Flowereth in Iuly, and may be increased by setting the slips in a Pot, or Boxes, i [...] March, so that they may be housed in Winter.

Sumach is raised either from the seed being ripe and good, or else by parting the Root.

Syring, see Pipe tree.

Time [...] is raised and increased by setting the slips or branches in A­pril, being then most apt to take Root.

Trefoile that which is called Bean Trefoile Flowereth in May, and may be increased either by Layers or Cuttings.

Trefoile, the Tree Trefoile I mean Flowereth in May, and may best of all be raised by setting the slips in Boxes, or Pots in Iune, whereby they may be kept from the violence of the Winter.

The Flowers which were before mentioned are here set down in eve­ry moneth wherein they Flower, and are usually in most splend our, according to the course of nature in this our Climate, yet I deny not but the nature of the ground, season, time of planting, art used in shading, or more exposing them to the Sun, &c. may cause some variation in their Flowering sooner or later.

In so many Moneths as you here find any one Flower mentioned, in those Moneths are they for the most part in a flourishing state.

• BLack Hellebores,
• Mizerions,
• Red Primroses.

• Bulbous vi [...]lets,
• Crocusses, of the Spring,
• Mizerions.
• Primroses,

• Anemones or Emanies,
• Bulbous violets,
• [Page 63] Couslips,
• Crocusses, of the spring,
• Crown Imperial,
• Duffodils,
• Dogs-teeth,
• Fritillaries,
• Gilliflowers,
• Hepartica or Liverworts,
• Mizerions,
• Oxlips,
• Primroses.
• Wall flowers.

• Aconitum or Woolfs bane,
• Anemones or Emanies,
• Auricula's or Bears-ears,
• Bulbous violets,
• Couslips,
• Crown Imperial,
• Clyclamen, of the spring,
• Daffodils,
• Dasies,
• Dogs-teeth,
• Dwarff flower-deluces,
• [Page 64] Flower-deluces,
• Fritillaries,
• Gilliflowers,
• Hypericum frutex or wood St: Johns-wort.
• Jacinths or Hyacinth,
• Lady smocks,
• Mizerions,
• Oxlips,
• Persian lillies,
• Primroses,
• Ranunculuses, or Crowsfoot
• Star-flowers,
• Stock-gilliflowers,
• Tulips,
• Wall flowers,

• Anemones or Emanies,
• Arbor-vitae,
• Auricula's or Bears-ears,
• Bastard Sena,
• Bell-flowers, or Saterions,
• Bulbous violets,
• [Page 65] Colombines,
• Couslips,
• Cyclamen, of the spring,
• Daffodils that have several flowers on a stalk
• Dwarff-flower-deluces,
• Emanies,
• Flag Flower-deluces,
• Flower-deluces,
• Fritillaries,
• Gigder-roses,
• Gilliflowers,
• Hearb-mullen,
• Hellebore,
• Honey-suckles,
• Hyacinth,
• Jacinths,
• Lilly Aspodils.
• Molys,
• Martagons,
• Night-shade,
• Oxlips,
• Paenies,
• Persian-lillies,
• Pipe Tree,
• Primroses,
• Queen-gilliflowers,
• [Page 66] Ranunculuses or Crows-foot
• Rosemaries,
• Shrub Night-shade,
• Snap-dragons,
• Spanish broom,
• Spiders wort,
• Star flower,
• Stock gilliflowers,
• Tree Trefoile,
• Tulips,
• Wall flowers,
• Woodbine,

• Aspodils,
• Campions,
• Cistus,
• Corn flag,
• Corn flower or blew bottles,
• Cyclamen,
• Dwarff flower-deluces,
• Flower-deluces,
• Flowers of Bristol, Campions, or No [...]-such.
• [Page 67] Fraxinella's,
• Foxgloves,
• Hellebore,
• Hearb-mullen,
• Honey-suckles,
• Hyarmiths,
• Jacinths,
• Larksheels, or Larks spurs
• Lillies Aspodil,
• London pride,
• Lillies,
• Mortagons,
• Molys,
• Nigella or Fennel flower.
• Nightshade,
• Pinks,
• Primroses,
• Queens Gilliflowers,
• Red Satten Flower, or French Honey­suckles.
• Shrub nightshade,
• Snap Dragons,
• Spider worts,
• Star flowers,
• Sweet Johns,
• Sweet Williams,
• Tulips,
• Woodbines,

• Carnations or Gilliflowers,
• Candy tusts,
• Champions or Non-such,
• Cistus.
• Corn flag,
• Corn-flowers, or Blew-bottles,
• Double Poppies,
• Flower-deluces.
• Flowers of Bristol, or Non-such,
• Fox-gloves,
• Fraxinella's,
• Hyacinths,
• Jacinths,
• Jasmines,
• Indian-cresses, or yellow Larks-heels,
• Marvile of Peru,
• Martagons,
• Non such,
• Pipe Tree,
• Primorfes,
• Queen Gilliflowers.
• Red Satten flower, or French Honey-suckles.
• [Page 69] Roses,
• Snap-dragons,
• Virgins bower,
• Wild and Toad flax,
• Wood bline,

• Africanes, or French Marigolds,
• Amaranthus or Flower-gentle,
• Ca [...]nations or Gilliflowers,
• Champians,
• Corn flowers, or blew-bottles
• Double Hollihacks or Garden Ma [...]ows,
• Flowers of Bristol,
• Flowers of the Sun,
• Fox gloves,
• Holliocks,
• Jacinths or Hyacinths,
• Jasmines,
• Indian Cresses, or yellow Larks-heel.
• Martagons,
• Marvile of Peru,
• Non-such,
• Pipe Tree
• Primr [...]ses,
• Shrub mallows,
• [Page 70] Shrub Spirae or Spiraea frutex.
• Virgins bower,
• Wild and toad Elax.

• Africanes or French Marigolds,
• Amaranthus, or Flower-gentle,
• Bind-weed,
• Campions,
• Crocusses Autumnal,
• Double Hollihocks, or Garden-mallows,
• Flowers of Bristol, or Non-such.
• Flowers of the Sun,
• Indian Cresses, or yellow Larks heels,
• Marvile of Peru,
• Meddow Saffron,
• Nerstertions,
• Pipe Tree,
• Primroses red
• Shrub Mallo [...]
• Sun Flowers,

• [...]rocuffes Autumnal,
• [...]arvile of Peru,
• Meddow Saffron,
• [...] Primroses,

• Black Hellebore,
• [...]d Primroses,

• Black Hellebore,
• Primroses red,

Many more rare and excellent Flowers might be add [...] the beautifying of this Garden, but the most part of them being more [Page 72]tender then these even now menti­oned, and much skill, care and trouble must be used in ordering the same in this colder Climate, which cannot be expected from ordinary Country people (for whom this was chiefly intended) it would therefore be of small mo­ment to treat of them, as also of many other ever-greens; but of these we may possibly have occa­sion to speak something of here after, if opportunity permit.

To draw a Diall on a Grass plot, it being first made Horizontal.

AN Horizontal Plane is that which is parallel to the Hori­zontal Circle of the Sphere; which being sound as before, you may then chuse your Center in the middle of the Plot, in which you may stick a nail or pinn, on which you may put a line, or thread with a noose to turn round, and draw a Circle whose Semidiamite

[Page] [Page] [Page] [Page]

[Page 77]or radius may be six or eight foot, or more or less as you please; but we will suppose it here to be six foot Semidiamiter, which is twelve foot Diamiter, whose Cir cumference is 37 5/7 which is drawn thus.

First put a string on the Centre or Pinn, and measure six foot thereof, whereat exactly hold your hand with a piece of Chalk or Whiting in your hand, so that the Green or Garden-plot being dry by turning round you may draw a Circle, which you may with a Knife or other Instrument, cut out as you please; that Citcle being made, you may then draw another Circle about sixteen or eighteen inches without it, be­tween which two Circles (last of all) the Figures at the end of the hour-lines to show the time of the [Page 78]day ought to be cut, if you will have your Diall drawn round.

Having thus done; draw your Meridian line, pointing right North and South; which you may do either by a needle that is well touch't, or else you may set up a [...] rod perpendicular, (which may be done by holding a Thread and Plummet thereto) and where the Shaddow is when the Sun is full South, that is, when is is full twelve a Clock, which you may see by another Diall that is truly drawn, I say, where the shad­dow toucheth at high noon, the [...] draw the Meridian-line A B (a [...] you may see Figure the first through the Center C this line is full North and South, and ser­veth for the Meridian, the hou [...] of twelve and the Substilar: the [...] through the point or Centre [Page] [Page] [Page 79]draw the line D E, crossing the Meridian at right Angles, which may be done thus;

Set the point of your Com­passes in the Circle, at the end of the Meridian-line, either North or South, and divide the Circum­ference A D B E into four equal parts, and draw the cross-line East and West D E which serveth for the Six a Clock line, both for mor­ning and evening.

Next to find the height of the Stile or Cocks elevation, take the latitude of the place, which is here fifty two degrees and twen­ty minutes, and set it from A to O in the Quadrant A D, and draw the line C O S, then from A raise the perpendicular A S to cut the line S C at S, so shall the Triangle A C S be the exact pattern of your [Page 80]Cock, and presents the Axle-tree of the world.

But to the unlearned (to whom I write) I will shew how they may get the height of the Stile, not regarding the line of Cords, because the Radius is in this work too large for most Rules, except you have one made purposely, which is not worth while, seeing i [...] may be performed otherwise.

Take the Radius or Semi-dia­miter of your Circle, which is [...]ere six Foot with a string, (for I suppose you have no Compasses that will reach it, yet such may easily be had) and holding it at the North end of the Meridian mea­sure the length thereof i [...] the Quadrant, or Arch-line towards D, which divide into six equal parts which are ninety Degrees, [Page 81]and may be numbred, ten, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty, sixty, &c. which if you take five of those parts it is fifty degrees, and then if you divide the next part, which is sixty into ten parts, and take something more then two of those small parts, you have then fifty two [...]egreos and twenty minutes the exact height of your stile.

And thus if you desire not to have your stile in one piece, all the whole breadth or height, you may have a Square or round piece of Iron or Wood which is straight set upright in the Circle of the North end of the Meridian the just height of the stile, and from the top thereof you may have another piece fitted, which will reach to the Center of the Diall to make an exact Triangle for the height of the Cock: And let it be so [Page 82]contrived that the slanting piece may be taken away and put there again at pleasure, that so it may neither be troublesome, nor de­form the place in the least, if it be in a Garden.

Now to find the rest of the hour-lines (for we have yet but the 12 a Clock-line, and the hour of 6 in the morning and evening) you may divide the two quarters of your Circle A E, and A D each into six equal parts, so shall you have in each Quarter or Quadrant, 5 points, by which you may draw the 5 Chord-lines; which in a Garden may be drawn with chalk, and is easily wiped out again, or else you may instead thereof lay so many strings or strained Pack­threads; sticking a pin in each, or making a mark where the hour-line is to be drawn; these Chord-lines [Page 83]being laid or drawn I F G H and A, as you may see in Figure the first; then take one half of the Cord-line A, & set it in the line of the stile from C to N, from which point N take the nearest extent unto the Meridian, with this same distance setting one foot in the point A, with the other make a mark on each side of the Meridi­an in the same Chord-line A, through which point from the Center draw the hour lines of 1 and 11, so likewise you may take one half of the Chord-line H, and place it in the line of the Stile from C to K, from which point K take the shortest extent unto the Meridian; with this distance set on foot in H, and with the other make on each side the Meridian a mark in the same Chord-line, through which you a [...]o to draw the Hour-lines of 2 and 10, and [Page 82] [...] [Page 83] [...] [Page 84]so you may do in the rest of the Lines, as the Figure will shew; and they being drawn in white or red, you may cut them forth in the Grass plot as you please; or if it be in a Flower-garden all the Lines may be of Box, Rosemary, Isop, or any other such like, as will easily be kept in good form; but then a larger extent then we have here mentioned ought to be used. And whereas in Summer the 4 and 5 in the morning, and also 7 and 8 at evening may be necessary, draw the Lines of 4 and 5 at evening beyond the Cen­ter C, and they will shew the hours of 4 and 5 in the morn­ing, and likewise the 7 and 8 in the morning for 7 and 8 in the evening.

But the operation of this large­ness being troublesome, because [Page 85]that ordinary Instruments will not conveniently reach to perform the same; therefore I will shew briefly how it may be drawn ei­ther on Paper or Past-board, and being fixed on the middle or Cen­ter of your Grass-plot or Green, or other place where you intend to draw your Diall, the Lines may be extended to what length is required.

Therefore having prepared rea­dy a large sheet of Paper that is very thick, as Dutch Paper is, or such as is commonly made use of for the drawing of Leases; or else a piece of smooth Past-board, such as may be had at any Card-makers; I say, having ready such a piece of Paper or Past-board, in the middle thereof chuse your Center as at C, then draw your Circle, and divide it into four [Page 86]equal parts, and draw your Meri­dian Line A B, and cross it at right Angles in the middle, with the Line D E for the six a clock line.

You may draw your Circle from what Radius you please, as suppose 6 inches or more, which may be wiped out again.

Having the hours of 12 and 6, then take the height of your Cock or Stile, as I have before shewn; or from a Line of Chords accor­dingly, take off as many Degrees as you would lay down, which here is 52 Degrees and 20 mi­nutes, which set from A to O, and so is the Triangle C O S, the pattern for the Cocks elevation, as is before shewn.

[Page] [Page]

This being done, divide the two quarters of the Circle [...]as before is shewn) into six equal parts, so is there in each Qua­drant 5 points by which you are to draw the five Cord-lines I F G H and A; then take one half of the Gord-line A, and set it in the line of the Stile from C to N, from which point N take the nearest distance unto the Me­ridian, and with this extent set­ting one foot in the point A, with the other make a mark on each side of the Meridian in the same Cord line A, through which points draw the Hour-lines of 1 and 11, and so of all the rest, as is already fully enough exprest.

Thus having drawn all the Lines parallel, or double, as you may see by Figure the second, you [Page 86] [...] [Page 87] [...] [Page 88]may then easily cut them forth (or plant them with Rosemary, Hy­sop, Time, Box, &c. if you cut by the edge of every Line, when you have drawn them to their full length, taking away all except the Lines only, and the narrow space between the parallel Lines, which being left on a Grass-plot will be the Hour-lines; and the Figures at the ends of the Hour-lines are handsomly to be cut, and left as here you see at twelve, and all the rest of the turf, or other earth in the inster­staces being taken away about three or four inches deep, and fine gravel put in the place, to fill those low places almost even a­gain, and then being beaten down hard, and the grass on the Lines kept short, it will seem very handsome in a Garden or Plan­tation: or else if you like not [Page 89]this way, you may then cut out the breadth of the Hour-lines, Circles and Figures only as deep as you see good, and put fine gra­vel only in those Lines, and be­ing beaten hard it will be well e­nough.

These Wayes are much used amongst the Planters in the In­dies; but because the Grass is apt to grow fast and over-spread the gravel, and thereby ariseth much trouble in keeping them handsome, some have the Lines thereof laid in Wood, or Stone, and then they are easily kept in order for a long time; and so they are being planted with Box, small Mirtle, Cypress, &c.

And beause no Gardeners or others, how unlearned soever, [Page 90]should be at a loss, or mistake me herein; I will indeavour in the drawing of another Horizontal D [...]all thereby to make what I have hitherto spoken of this kind more plain, and easie to the meanest capacity,

[Page] [Page] [Page]

To draw another Di­al on an Horizontal Plane.

VVHen you have found your Plane, or Green whereon you desire to have your Dial drawn, to be level with the Horizon; then draw the Meridian Line, and in this Line make choice of a Center, as at C, through which point C draw the Line D E, crossing the Meridian at right Angles; which Line is for six a clock in the morning and even­ing.

Then draw the height of the Stile, or cock of the Dial accor­ding [Page 92]to your Radius to be 52 degrees and 20 minutes, making th [...] Angle S C A, then at the North [...] end of the Meridian-line draw another Line, as F G crossing th [...] Meridian at right Angles; this Line is called the Touch-line; o [...] Line of contingence.

Then set one foot of your Compasses in the foot A, and with the other take the nearest ex­tent unto the Line S C, or the Stile, with this distance turning your Compasses about with one foot still in the point A, with the other make a mark in the meri­dian, as at I, which shall be the Center of the Equinoctial, upon which describe the Equinoctial Circle A D B E, with this same distance setting one foot in the point A, make a mark at F on the one side of the Meridian, and [Page 93]another at G on the other side there­of, both which ought to be made [...] the Line of contingence, by [...]hich two points, and the Cen­ [...]r C, you may draw the Hour­ [...]nes of 3 and 9.

This same distance of your Compasses being kept with one [...]ot still in the Genter A, with the other make the marks K L in the Equinoctial Circle. Then [...]aying your rule upon the Center [...] of the Equinoctial, and upon those two last divisions in the Circle thereof where the rule shall touch the Line of contin­gence, there mark it as at H and P, by which points and the Center C, you may draw the Hour-lines of 10 and 11, the like may you do on the other side of the Meri­dian, so have you six of your Hour­lines drawn.

And now for the drawing o [...] your 4 and 5, and also 7 and 8 [...] Clock-lines, it is possible your Touch-line, or Line of contin­gence may out-run your Plane, as you may see by Figure the third, we will therefore shew how you may on a Grass plot or elsewhere draw those Lines with Chalk, o [...] by the use of a Thread, or any small Line you may do it, not out­running the compass of the Dial [...] As thus,

From the intersection of the hours of 9 and 3 with the Touch­line draw the Line F D (as you may see Figure 4th) and G E pa­rallel to the Meridian A B, until they cut the Line of East and West in the points D and E, the [...] draw the Lines A D and A E, this being done, set one foot of [Page 95]your Compasses in the point H, [...] with the other take the nearest [...]ent unto the Line A E, this [...]tance being kept, six one foot [...] the Line G E, so as the other [...]y but touch the Line A E at the [...] O, by which and the Center [...] you may draw the 7 a clock [...]our-line: in like manner may [...] place one foot in the point P, [...] with the other take the short­ [...]extent unto the Line A E, with [...]is distant fixing one foot in the [...]ne G E, so as the other may but [...]ly touch the Line A E, so shall [...]e fixed point rest n the foot Q. [...]y which and the Center C you [...]ay draw the 8 a clock hour line, [...]e like may be done on the other [...]de or the Meridian; or you may [...]y these distances thus form'd, [...]rick out the li [...]e on the other side [...]of the Meridian.

And so by dividing but o [...] eitht part of the Equinct [...] Circle into 3 equal parts, you m [...] draw your whole Dial.

What is here spoken concerning the hours, the like is to be un­derstood in drawing the halfhour [...] lines and quarters, if it be required; or else by dividing th [...] spaces between the hour-lines i [...] to halfs, and those halfs again being divided equally, you have th [...] the half, and quarter of an ho [...] exact enough.

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