ANTIquITY was so ignorant, as to divide the whole World into two parts onely, viz. ASIA and EƲ ­ROPE; comprehending Africa under ASIA, as Eratosthenes an Author of as great esteem as anti­quity; some under EƲROPE, as Isocrates in his Panegyrique, and others mentioned in Salust, Lucan, and S. Austin de civitate Dei: but the most celebrated Division was into three parts; EƲROPE, ASIA, and AFRICA or Libya; and this [Page 2]was approv'd both by ancient and modern Authors. So that it appears, Cosmography was unacquainted with any other Division of the Universe, till that the knowing Genouese, about two Centuries ago, did furnish it with a Fourth, by his discovery of AMERICA, the most usual, but improper name: for Columbus, after his ineffectual addresses to the States of Genoua, Anno 1486, and to Henry the 7 ^th of England, and their absolute refusal; he spun out six years in patient attendance at the Court of Ca­stile, where at last he was furnished out with three Vessels more proper for Discovery than Conquest. And thus he first found it out, and led the way to the rest. But Americus Vesputius the Florentine, a man old in years, but young in courage, employed therein by Emanuel King of Portugal, surveyed a great part of the Continent by the light he had from Columbus the first Discoverer; yet the Floren­tine prov'd the Godfather, and call'd it AMERICA, to perpetuate his own Name, and eternize his Me­mory. John Cabot a Venetian, in behalf of Henry the 7 ^th, discovered all the North-east coast thereof, and touched many places Americus ne'r saw. And although these three Italians were by three several Monarchs employed to finde out this Fourth part of the World, it is so vast a Continent, that the Southern part is to this day altogether unknown; and usually in our Planispheres and Maps call'd Terra Australis incognita.

EƲROPE as to its Magnitude, (in the opinion of Cosmographers, who run all in the same current [Page 3]or stream) is inferiour to the other three; though to none of them, if you consider the moderate and wholesome Temperature of the Air, together with the prodigious fertility of its Soyl; the two once-famous Romane and Greek Monarchies; the Study and Improvement of Arts both Liberal and Mecha­nical; the Affluence of all things that conduce ei­ther to the Support or Pleasure of Man; or above all, the Purity and Sincerity of the Christian Reli­gion universally profess'd in all the Dominions thereof; besides the well-regulated Government of their Realms, their Kings being Absolute Mo­narchs, but not Arbitrary Tyrants; and the men happie Subjects, not miserable Slaves; which keeps us from that Tyranny, Slavery, Injustice, frequent Bribery, Beggery and Barbarism, which like an In­undation hath overflown all the Asiatick, African, and American parts, when they groan'd under the Yoke of their Idolatrous and Sanguinary Princes and Governours. Par nihil Europe, nihil est se­cundum.

ITALY is is a Region, that, among many other advantageous Elogies, is on all hands held to be the Eden of Europe, the Garden or Paradise of this North-west part of the World. This Peninsula or Demi-Island, formerly the absolute and redoubted Empress of the major part of the then-known habi­table World, yet may compare, as now it is, nay exceed the most of the other Kingdoms of Asia, A­frica, or America. 'Tis situate in a most Tempe­rate Clime; and for the amoenity of its Cities, the [Page 4]commodiousness for Commerce and Negotiations, the deliciousness of its Fountains and Aqueducts, the fertility of its well-cultivated Fields, insomuch that in some places they have three Harvests in one year; the Uniformity and Stateliness of Fabriques, and the rare Architecture and rich Furniture and Ornaments of its Temples, and many other Delica­cies to gratifie the gusto as to Fruits and rare Wines, with other Varieties too numerous to be crowded into the narrow confines of our intended Dis­course.

And in this Paradise or Garden of Europe there is a small Terroir, or pleasant spot of ground, known by the name of MODENA; where we will take the fresco for some time, and give you our Senti­ments upon a strict Survey of what shall occur as observable during this our Promenade; and there­upon make some Remarques, which will prove the most useful Materials, and most conducive to the compliment of this our present Essay.

MODENA is the Modern appellation; but it is better known to the Ancients by the name of Mu­tina; as Livie, Cicero, Pliny, &c. Some read it Motina; as Antoninus and Dio: Strabo and Ptole­my [...] commonly Modena, à movendo (saith Merula in his Cosmography) ut quidam insulse con­jiciunt, eo quòd Diluvio quondam tota fuerit sub­mersa, qua de re dignus Autore suo Versiculus.

Call'd Modena (a foolish conceit) because it was once drowned with a Deluge. The more probable Conjecture is, that it was nam'd à movendo, be­cause it is at this day somewhat removed from the situation of the ancient Citie, which the Longobards did totally ruinate and demolish.

The City of Mutina, The Dukedom of Mo­dena at present contains the Citie of Modena and Reggio, with the Lands and Territories thereunto adjoyning. They are both pleasantly situated in that part of Lombardy called Cispadana, or as in their own Dialect vul­garly. Diqua del Po, on this side of the river Po. now MODENA, was first erected by the Etrurians or Tusci, now cal'd Toscans a people of Italy; and they waging War with the Galli Boii, were expelled thence by them, who after that possessed it; and they being profligate by the Vi­ctorious Arm of the Romane Conquerors, it was by them made a Colony, together with Parma, in the 570 or 571 year after the Building of Rome, as Livie and other Historians affirm, ( Quintus Fabius Labio and Marcus Claudius being at that time Consuls) who in several places make very honourable men­tion of it; an infallible testimony that it was both rich and potent: which truth is more at large con­firm'd by the various Inscriptions and ancient Mar­bles that are yet everywhere extant, and expos'd to the view of all Travellers.

This Citie was sufficiently illustrated and made famous in those times, for the first Battel between Antonie and C. Octavianus Caesar, who was then but [Page 6]a Stripling or Tyro in War, and not above Eighteen years, and yet made Head of a new League against Antonius, whom the Senate lookt upon with an ill eye, as a common and dangerous Enemy. This happened in the year 711, when Antonius besieg'd C. Brutus in this Citie; but by the assistance of Cae­sar Octavianus he gain'd the Victory. The mana­ging of the whole War was left to Hirtius and Pan­sa, at that time Consuls. The fortune of the day was so well managed on both sides, that Antonie lost the Field, and the Consuls their Lives; Caesar Octavianus remaining absolute Commander of a puissant and numerous Army, into whose favour he by his dexterity so cunningly insinuated him­self, and made so good improvement of his Talent, and such advantage of the opportunity, that this prov'd the Basis and Foundation of his future Grandeur. But afterwards, when the said C. Octa­vianus, M. Antonius, and M. Aemilius Lepidus en­tred into the Society of the Triumvirate, there­upon the Citie had very course usage, and was ex­pos'd to very great Slaughter, by Constantine the Great, because that it favoured Maxentius: but the Victory being once obtain'd, it was restor'd, and the Christians became possessed of it; it was dignified with an Episcopal Seat, and Geminianus a Learned man made Bishop thereof. After this, it was reduced to ashes by the Inundation of the Goths and Lombards, a furious and barbarous people, as S. Ambrose relates the Story, affirming that he saw Modena with the rest of the adjacent places upon [Page 7]the Via Aemilia, suffer a total devastation. But these Barbarians were afterwards expulsed by the Empe­rour Charles the Great, who established his son Pe­pin King of Italy; and then the Citizens of Modena, whose names were engraven on the gates, quitting their sad but secure Retirements, whither they con­fin'd themselves during the distractions and tur­moils that Italy then labour'd under, took counsel how to rebuild this Citie: and in process of time they erected it in that form as now it appears in. They being now their own Masters, free from the Vassalage of an insulting Enemy, and solely at their own disposal, and having the Jurisdiction within themselves, they onely retain'd the Romane name; but yet were not so much at rest, but they had se­veral Skirmishes with their Neighbours, especially the people of Bologna, about the Limits and Bounds of their Country.

During the Distractions and Troubles of Italy between the Emperour and the Popes, Guido the Popes Legate, and then Bishop thereof, consign'd it over to Azo one of the House of Este, Lord of Fer­rara, Anno 1304, the Pope consenting to it, upon the annual payment of the Tribute of 10000 Crowns. Since which time it hath been for the most part in the power of that House; Bersius Marquess of Ferrara being created Duke of Mutina by the Emperour Frederick the third. Anno 1312, she had the Family of the Mirandulae her Masters, by the Authority of the Emperour, anno 1319. the Bonacelsii Tyrants of Mantua being compelled [Page 8]thereunto by the help and assistance of the Guelphi. Anno 1331, the Pii governed her, at first under the name of Captains, afterwards of Princes. Further­more, anno 1336, the Atestini or Family d'Esteé succeeded them, who were Marquesses of Ferrara, by the Popes leave and permission; and they go­verned it till the year 1510, when Pope Julius 11 took the Citie, and gave it to Maximilian 1, Em­perour, by whom it was afterwards, anno 1514, hy­pothequ'd to Pope Leo the tenth, for 10000 Crowns. Lastly, in the year 1527, when Clement the Pope was besieg'd by the lmperialists, it was retaken by the Victorious Arms of the Atestini, or Family of Esté, by whom it was increased with Buildings, Walls, and fenced with Ditches; and grew up by degrees to the present splendour, state and gran­deur.

Thus far the ancient Authors, particularly Livy; and the modern also, as Blondus Corius, Platina, Sabellicus, Volaterranus, and Leandro; besides what we finde in the Annals of the Citie, and Bologna likewise.

MODENA is marshalled by Pliny in the eighth Region of Italy, and call'd by Ptolemy a Citie of Gallia Togata; being washed by the Rivulet or Brook Formigo. It was heretofore situated some­what higher towards the Mountains than now it is at present, as appears by the ruines of some antiqua­ted edifices standing somewhat distant from the an­cient Modena, as Leandro intimates more at large.

The Citie is noble and splendid, of an orbicular form, seated in a Plain not far from the Apennines, which are called the Back, or rather Back-bone of Italy, because, like the Spina in the body, they divide Italy into two parts or sides, West or North. It is beautified with a Cathedral Church, the doors whereof are worthy admiration for many things, but particularly for the famous Marble-statues of Adam and Eve. It flourisheth with the dignity of an Episcopacie, which is subject to the Archbishop of Bologna; and is also adorn'd with an Academy, in which Azo the Civilian taught the Imperial Law. It is a pleasant Soyl, abounding with Fruits and Grains of all sorts, and the best Wine, called Vinum Tribianum. This Citie was greatly ampli­fied by Alphonso the second, Duke of Esté. 'Tis populous, and the inhabitants are noble and inge­nuous, and better natur'd than most of Italy; they being quick in their resolutions, easie to be pacified when injur'd, debonnair and courteous in their en­tertainment and treating of strangers. Though they are ill and foolishly treated by some over­censorious Italians, whe injuriously nickname it Modena lapazza, Foolish Modena; it being a ma­licious and undeserv'd reflection upon that people. The females are of a meek and patient temper, nei­ther too amorous, nor too coy; too courtly, nor too peevish; as they are in other places, for the generality: They are very much applauded also by Mr. Warcup, in his History of Venice, where he enumerates the several Cities of Italy in Verse, [Page 10]translated out of the Italian; and concludes thus:

Modena hath been the Nursery of many famous and learned men; some whereof are taken notice of by Nicolaus Leorinus Silesius, a learned and ele­gant Poet, in his Catalogue of Learned men that flourished in his Age.

Modena has produced these eminent persons:

Hercules Rangonus. James Sadolet a man of ex­quisite Learning, Gregory Cortesius of the Order of Benedictines, Thomas Badias of the Fraternity of Praedicants, who were elected Cardinals by Pope Paul the third. She is also ennobled by Charles Si­gonius a most learned man, and an eminent Histo­rian. She is the Mistress of Ʋgo Rangonus Praesul of Reggio, of Francis Maria Molza, John Francis­cus Furnius. It hath bred up some that were very [Page 11]much renown'd in War; as Nicolas and Gerard Rangonus, Hannibal and Guido both sons of Nico­las. There are many Noble Families in the Do­minions of the Duke; as the Pii, the Mirandulani, Bonacelsii, &c. of which we shall speak more at large in the conclusion. But above all, the Family d'Esté who are now Lords of it; the Citie being very much ennobled and enriched by the constant residence of the Duke. Nor is she without her Ci­tadel, wherein according to credible report there are stor'd up Arms for Forty thousand men at least: a very considerable business!

The next thing that falls under our consideration and description, is the Citie of Reggio in this Duke­dome of Modena. Aemilia dein via pergenti, de­xtra Seciae ripa omissa Regium Lepidi occurrit, ripae Crustuli laevae adpositum, saith Merula in his Cosmo­graphy. As to its name, 'tis called by Tully in his Epistle to Cassius and others Regium Lepidi: by Tacitus, Regium Lepidum: by Strabo, l. 5. [...]. by Ptolemy, [...]. by Antoninus, Regium onely, and at this day, 'tis commonly known by the name of Reggio. In this place here­tofore there was Forum Lepidi, as Festus observes. The inhabitants are called Regienses, from Lepidus in Pliny; as also Regini, à Regio Julio.

Nor hath Heaven been more propitious to this Citie, or Fortune more favourable than to Modena: for it hath run almost the same ris (que) and tasted of the same misery and misfortune. It was at first made a [Page 12] Romane Colony, as well as Modena; M. Aemilius Lepidus who gave it a name, T. Ebusius Carus, and L. Quinctius Crispinus, being then Triumviri. It was destroyed by the Goths, when they made incursions into, and embarassed all Italy, under Alarico their King: the Citizens were constrained, by reason of the fury of an enraged and barbarous enemy, to a­bandon it, and flee to more secure retirements and places, till the Lombards were conquer'd and bea­ten out of Italy by Charles the Great, about the year 800; at what time by degrees the Citizens returned to their desolate Citie, and began to restore, re­pair, and immure it with a strong Wall. It was go­verned by it self for some time in liberty, after the manner of the other Cities in Italy; and this free­dom and liberty continued till the year 1286, and then it came under the Dominion of Earls and Princes; and 'twas first under the command of the Earls of Canosse, then those of Esté, the Caesars, the Kings of France; then it was subject to the Papal Sea, and had also the Foliani, Scaligers, Gonzagae, and Ottobuoni for its Lords. So Blondus, Antoninus, Platina, and Sabellicus. So far Morula. Heylin saith, When they were under the command of the Earls of Canosse, they grew weary of that Yoke, and recovered their Liberty; which being unable to maintain in those bustling times, they gave them­selves to Obizo the father of Azo, anno 1292. and after that, in the year 1326, to the Sea of Rome. Passing thorow many hands, it was at last sold for 60000 Ducats to the Visconti Lords of Milain, an. [Page 13]1370; and in the end recovered by the House of Esté, anno 1409, and gave the Title of a Duke to Borsius Marquess of Ferrara, whom Frederick the 3. made Duke of Modena and Reggio, anno 1452. The Successours of Borsius held the Estate toge­ther, till the death of Alphonso the first Duke, who dying without lawful issue, anno 1592, left his E­state to Caesar d'Esté his Nephew by a natural son, called Alphonso also; between whom and Pope Cle­ment the 8, a War was threatned for the whole; but at last comprimised upon these Conditions: That the Church of Rome should have Ferrara, with all the Lands and Territories appertaining to it, as an Estate anciently held of that Sea: And that Modena and Reggio being Imperial Feifs, should remain to Cae­sar, but to be held in Fee of the Papal Throne: Duke Caesar to have leave to carry away all his moveables, to sell such of his Lands as were not of the an­cient Demain of the Dukedome; and to have one half of the Ordnance and Artillery. By which A­greement, the Cities of Modena and Reggio became a new-erected State, distinct and independent of any other, each Citie being well Fortified, Gariso­ned, and furnished with Ordnance for defence there­of. But what they yield unto the Prince in the way of Revenue, and what Force he is able to raise out of his Estate, I cannot positively determine: but by the Tribute formerly paid unto the Popes for the Citie of Mutina, (now Modena) and the rich Territories of both Towns, and the great Reve­nues of the Dukes of Ferrara; I conceive they [Page 14]cannot yeeld less than 100000 Crowns of yearly Income. Thus far Heylin in his Cosmography.

Reggio (saith Merula) Ʋrbs est lauta, nobilis, fre­quens; solo sita valde fertili; loco pulchro, amoeno, plane (que) regio, unde illi quorundam judicio nomen. This Citie is built on the Via Aemilia, and named Regium Lepidi by Strabo, Cicero, Cornelius Tacitus, and other Authors. By whom it was built, is not certainly known; though 'tis reported by some to be erected by the Toscans, who being expulsed, as Livy and Polybius affirm, the Gauls or French pos­sessed it; and afterwards it was made a Colony by M. Aemilius Lepidus, one of the Triumviri; T. E­butius Carus, and L. Quinctius Crispinus, being the other two, as is before mentioned. Some contend that Marius Lepidus one of the said Triumvirate, who divided the Romane Empire, was its Founder; others that it was built long before his time, but by him made a Colony.

'Tis a noble, splendid, and well-peopled Citie, a­bounding with all things: it hath fair and spacious streets, with sumptuous structures; as the magnifi­cent Church of S. Prospero Bishop of this Citie, where his corpse is devoutly kept; having a very plentiful Revenue, and being adorn'd with excel­lent Portraictures, but particularly with some Pie­ces drawn by the famous Correggio, worthy of e­ternal Fame. In the walls of the Orchard of the R. R. P. P. de Servi, was not long since discovered an Image of the holy Virgin, held in great esteem there for its Miracles, with uncommon and super­stitious [Page 15](I had almost said idolatrous) venera­tion.

Reggio abounds with all necessaries for the use of man; the Soil is extraordinary fertil of all manner of Grain, and all sorts of Fruits. White Wines it hath good store, and a sort of Wine call'd Vinum Hel­volum, of its colour, being between a red and white. 'Tis very much fam'd and taken notice of, for the rare art of making Spurs, the best in Italy; and other Mechanical pieces in Ivory, politely and exactly done according to art.

The Reggians are a people very courteous and affable, of a good mein and presence, of present wit, and quick apprehension, vivacious and spright­ly, and to be moulded and brought to any great or august employment. The Women, as those of Modena, are very milde, and the finest in all Italy.

It is adorn d with a Bishoprick subject to the same Archbishop as Modena; and hath brought forth many famous men, who have rendred it very illu­strious; as D. Maximus one of its Bishops, Guido Sagaranus, Philip Casolus, James Columbus, Charles Ruinus, Francis Belius, Julius Scarlatinus, famous Lawyers: Sebastianus Carradus, profoundly learned in the Greek and Latine Tongues; and Bartholo­mew Crottus, a great Poet of his time. It contains many noble Families; as the Signori Canossae, Man­fredi, Fogliani, and Sessi, who possess great Lord­ships there, and have very noble and large Castles for their Apartments or Mannor-houses.

Now I have given you an account-of these two capital Cities of the great Dukedome of Modena: I will cast my eye with a retrospect upon some o­ther famous Castles, Towns and Places within their Territories, and acquaint you with some passages and rarities that may merit the observation, and gratifie the curiosity of the diligent and industri­ous Enquirer, that will make it his business to pry into them.

On the left side of the River Po, saith my Author, there stands the Arx Stellata, a Castle fabriqued by Nicolas 3. of the House of Esté, who was Marquess of Ferrara: but the greatest part of it was in pro­cess of time overthrown by the Legions of Pope Julius the 11, and the Venetians. And upon the Bank of the River Po is seen a new-built Town call'd Rovero, a neat and large place.

Towards the South of Modena, under the Apen­nines, stand Formagine, Spezzano; and ten miles off, Sassulo, a Noble and civil place, with a sum­ptuous Castle of the Family of the Pii, watred by the River Secchia, where is also a fair Church dedi­cated to the blessed Virgin.

About half a mile short of Sassulo, is the Temple of the Saint Maria Sassutina, so called from the Castle Sassulo situated at the very foot of the Apen­nine hills or mountains on the left side of the banks of Secchia.

Upon these Mountains stand many other Villages and Hamlets, and are plainly visible in the Eastern part of Modena.

These Castles were formerly subject to several Lords, and particularly to them of Monte, who were very powerful at that time in these Countries, and possessed all the Places in the Graffignana, which confines on Bologna; and among the rest, Sestola and Fanano. Westward, the Alps of San Pellegrine appear to the view; and the Castle Acquario, fa­mous for its Baths, and their Medicinal waters; and from thence 'tis probably conjectur'd it takes its denomination. Then turning to the South, runs the Tyrrhene Sea, somewhat near Bologna. On the banks of the River Panaro stand Vetro and Spilim­berto, formerly call'd Spinum Lamberti, two Castles belonging to the Signori Rangoni. Four miles di­stant from thence you finde Vignola, a Town dig­nified with a Marquisate, subject to the Signori Buoncompagni, which borders upon the Bolognian Territories.

Towards the North is situated the most Noble Castle, or rather Imperial Citie, call'd Carpi; which may deservedly come in competition with many Ci­ties, if you consider the populousness or ingenuity of the People, and the superfluity of all necessaries. It is honoured with the title of a Principality, and was for many years enjoyed by the Signori Pii; but at this day it is under the Duke of Modena.

Then there is to be seen the ample, noble, and o­pulent Monastery of S. Benedict Podolironus, built by Boniface the father of Countess Mathilde, and enlarged by the said Countess, whose Sepulchre is there likewise. And Guardistallo, famous for two [Page 18]Councils held there, one under Pope Ʋrban the 8, and the other under Paschal the 11: witness Pla­tina in the History of their Lives, and Blondus in his fourteenth Book of Historical Relations.

On the Banks of the River Po, somewhat farther, Brescello fronts you, call'd Brixillum by Pliny, in his third Book; and Plutarch, in the Life of Otho the Emperour: by Ptolemy, [...] and by Taci­tus, Suetonius, Antoninus, and Paulus Diaconus. It was formerly a Citie, saith Leander, and taken by Anthare King of the Lombards, who dismantled and levell'd the walls with the ground, according to Paulus Diaconus in his Continuation of Eutro­pius, l. 28. and Blondus in the 8 Book of his Hi­story.

On the left hand of the banks of the River Len­za stands Tanedo, nam'd by Livy in many places, and Pliny (who affirms that there was a man there 120 years old) Tannetum; by Polybius, Tanetus; by Pto­lemy, [...] and hence it is that Pliny calls the people Tanetani. It was subverted by Cese King of the Lombards, saith Paulus Diaconus; was re­stored, and reduced to the form that now it ap­pears in, being at present a Village or Hamlet.

In the Eastern part of Modena is a Chanel, upon which you may pass by Boat 8 miles at length, till you arrive at Finale: then going on the River Panaro, where the Chanel disembarques it self into that River, is seen Buon Porto, and San Felice, much commended for generous Wines. Along the Aemi­lian way, three miles from Modena, runs the River [Page 19] Panaro, near which are the confines of the Modo­nesi and Bolognesi, where Claudius the Consul co­ping with his enemies, took 15000 Prisoners, and 700 Ligurians. Nay farther, in this very place Ro­tari King of the Lombards routed the Romane Ar­my, with the slaughter of 7000 Souldiers. Here also the Forces of the Modonesi being discomfited by the Bolognesi, Euzo King of Sardegna, the son of Erderick the second, was taken Prisoner. On the other side of Panaro is Novantola, with a Monaste­ry famous both for its antiquity as well as stateliness, founded by Anselmo, nearly related to Astolfo King of the Lombards, who was a redoubted Captain in their Army.

Near the Aemilian way, between Bologna and Novantola, stands Santa Agata, a Castle erected by Barbarossa the Emperour; and Crevalcuore, former­ly known by the name of Allegracuore, where the Army of Bernabo Visconte Lord of Milain was de­feated and put to the Rout.

Next you go to San Giovanni, a Country very plentiful of Wheat and other Grain. On the left side of Via Aemilia stand Castiglione and Castel­franco, 15 miles off of Bologna; where some few years past there was raised a most impregnable Fort by Pope Ʋrban the 8, and from him called Ʋrbano. Neer this Fort is the Foro di Galli, where Hirsius and Pansa, two Romane Consuls, were engaged with M. Antonius; who obtained a glorious Victory, but withal their mortal wounds, whereof they both di­ed upon the place, as is prementioned. Then there [Page 20]appear Purmanio, Bazanio, and Crepellano, three pleasant Castles seated on those hillocks that are at the foot of the Apennines.

On the left hand of the Aemilian way, five miles from Bologna, are the Rivers Lavinio and Ghiron­don, which meeting together with mutual embra­ces, joyntly environ Forcelli in a triangular form, being distant from Via Aemilia one mile; where Octavianus, M. Antonius, and Marius Lepidus, sha­red the Monarchy between them. This Forcelli is now a Peninsula, though it may be perceived to have been an Islet formerly. Afterwards these two Rivers disgorge themselves into the Po.

Near Bologna there is seen a Stone-bridge of great length, which bestrides the River from one side to the other; from whence 'tis but a small and easie mile to Bologna.

Now we come to the places contiguous and ad­jacent to Reggio; near which there appear certain Hills that erect their lofty crest so pleasantly, as does create delight in all Passengers; no less beautified and adorned with several fair Towns and Villages, than delicious Wines and Fruit-trees. Towards Parma you may take a view of a Castle (strength­ned by its site) where Mathilde the Countess pre­serv'd Pope Gregory the seventh from the snares and ambushes prepared for him by the Emperour Henry the fourth, an enemy to the Church of Rome; but afterwards he (being a tender-conscienc'd Re­ligioso) repented of this imaginary and suppo­sititious [Page 21]Crime, and was led a Royal dance by his Confessor bare-foot and bare-headed in the midst of Winter, through Ice and Snow, from this place to the said Pope, to implore a Pardon for this his Pec­cadillo, and obtained it with a courteous reception. A remarkable Instance, and notorious Precedent of the Tyranny, Haughtiness, and Vain-glory of his Ironical, nick-nam'd Holiness, who dares presume so proudly and imperiously to insult over, nay buf­foon a puissant Potentate, making him foot it bare in the depth of a hard Winter; to the Idolatrous Citie of his residence; and thereby run the ris (que) of losing his life, to gain a fruitless and insignificant Pardon. But this he must do, or forfeit all his Rega­lia, and be daily menaced with that silly Scar-crow, the Thunder of Excommunication. Thus Monar­chy grows consumptive, hangs the head, droops, and dwindles away to nothing, and so expires; King is a meer empty name, or the more glorious synonyma of Vassals, and Prince the more splendid name of Slave. Thus the Scepter warps to the Crosier, the Emperours Hat vails to the Bishops Mitre, and the single does obeysance to the triple Crown. Thus Regal Authority, whose tender neck was ever un­accustomed to the burden of a tame condescention, puts on the heavie Yoke of Pontifical rigorous im­position. Thus here you see the great most Chri­stian Ring crouch to Antichrist, or being Crown-fallen as well as Crest-fallen. Thus Majestie it self inclines the reverend head, stoops low with a reve­rential bow to kiss that vulgarly-ador'd Pantofle, [Page 22]which frequently proves but the gaudy covering of a Gowty toe.

At this day, the most Noble Family of the Canossae are Lords of this Castle, and the rest that encircle it; and a small distance from this, stand the Castles and other places that belong to the Signori Man­fredi.

Keeping the way on the Mountains, you come to Graffignana, where Castelnuovo is to be seen, which in times of yore was the Birth-place of many Illustrious persons; and in this our modern age, of Giulio Ʋr­bano; Doctor and Apostolick Prothonotary, who liv'd in great repute and esteem among Princes Po­pishly inclin'd, and was highly applauded by the Fry of the Septuagint of Cardinals, that pay homage to, and revere the pretended and triple-Crown'd Suc­cessor of the Fisherman; who did a long time offici­ate as Vicar-general, in lieu of the Miter'd Cardinal Linga Carnaro Bishop of Padua; and in that qua­lity died, anno 1592. (May the same mortality and good fortune, in God's due time, attend the whole Conclave, that's my Litany.) His brother Ʋrban was Captain of the Venetian Militia, and Filippo Ʋrbano their Nephew.

In your return to the Aemilian way, occurs the Castle of Scandiano, dignified with the Title of a Marquisate, subject to the Signori Feni, noble and renown'd Vicentines. On the left hand lies the Ca­stle Roldo, belonging to the House of the Sessi, a Feudatory of the Emperour; with San Martino, Gonzaga the most splendid Village belonging to the [Page 23] Gonzagae Princes of Mantua, and Muvilara.

Between Modena and Reggio, Correggio appears, not far from the River Lenza; a noble Castle, well govern'd, and as well peopled: it was called a citie of the Empire, and appertains to the most Illustrious Family of the Correggii: and where the River Lecchia dichotomizeth the Via Aemilia, stands a very strong Castle call'd Ruberia, or Rubiera, by the Learned Herberia, erected as some conjecture by the Boiardi, and as others imagine by the Ru­brii of Parma; which had serveral Masters till the year 1523, and then it fell into the hands of the Dukes of Ferrara, and was made famous by the birth of Antonius Codrus, a most polite Grecian, and expert Latinist, being a man of great Learning and vast Parts. This Castle is strongly fortified with a well-made Bulwark or Rampart, and surrounded with many Hills, which adde much grace and beau­ty to its situation, and renders the prospect very delightful. From hence you pass into a spacious and good Road, very commodious for all Travel­lers that steer their course that way, and designe to arrive at the capital Citie Modena, of which we have already given you a large and exact descri­ption.

In this Tract there are four Apennine hills, and as many Cities which are indebted to the Countess Mathilde for their foundation, viz. Bibianello, Ca­stelvitreo, Monte Zano, and Monte Luzco; all un­der the command and jurisdiction of the Earls of Canossae.

Having given you a court and true account of the Government, Riches, Force, Religion, Manners and Qualifications of the People of this ancient and illustrious Dukedom, as also the nature and quality of the Soyl and Climate; I shall by way of Corol­lary close all with a short relation of the Original, Antiquity, and Genealogie of the Dukes of the House of Esté, and bring them down by descent to the most Illustrious person who at present is the undoubted and lawful Prince of the Dukedom of Modena.

The Princes of the House of Esté have been so considerable, and so much taken notice of both in Peace and War, that John Baptista Pigna hath with much industry and learning composed eight Books of the original, noble exploits and transactions of this Princely Family in Italy and other countries.

As to their original he saith, that Ateste, Com­mander of the Heneti (now Venetians) after the sacking and destruction of Troy, was driven into these parts with a considerable Navie, and built the Citie Atestia or Ateste, of his own name; and he called the whole Tract of ground Venetia: but the Latine degenerating by degrees from its puri­ty, the Citie lost the primitive e name of Atestia, and sensibly shrunk into that of Esté. This Atestes descended from the Atii, of the Poblilian Tribe in Rome, who because they did espouse the Quarrel of the Caesars, did obtain so much grace and favour as to be Lords not onely of their own Country, [Page 25]but also of all the Territories of Venice. And here the Atestini (for so they were call'd of old) began to b e in reputation: and these Princes do produce their Chronologie of 1200 years, to mani­fest and testifie their Grandeur in a continued Series down to this present Age.

Thus the Atii became Masters of a great part of Venice when Ateste was their capital Citie of Resi­dence: and the Romane Caesars being then accusto­med to create a Magistracie consisting of eleven of the chief Citizens, and sometimes a greater number, (who were also called Decuriones, because at the first institution ten onely were requir'd) Atius the son of C. of the last Race, and the first Author of the Family of the Atestini, did exercise this Magi­stracie there. And this the Inscription of an old Stone doth sufficiently prove, which to this day is preserv'd by these Princes. This C. Atius had two sons; Aurelius, and Flavius.

Ateste being thus built, and the Metropolis of Venetia, was called afterwards Esté, and had four Gates oppos'd to the four quarters of the heaven; the Black, the White, the Triumphal, and the Capi­toline Gate, in the Romilian Tribe, saith the Author. It was founded by the Atii, ruin'd by Acarinus, and restor'd by Aldoardus; and then 'twas made an Earldome, afterwards created a Marquisate, and enlarged; besieged by the Paduans, taken by Eze­linus, recovered by Azo, burnt by Ezelinus, possess'd by those of Padoa, and then restor'd to Azo, and afterwards to Albertus.

Thus you have in short a brief Narrative of the ancient Atii, the original of the Atestini, or Esten­ses, as our Modern Authors write them; which is the most known name; and they are usually call'd the Dukes of Esté.

The Family d'Esté, at present Dukes of Modena, which are accounted in the number of the 7 Great Princes of Italy, according to the ancient Division, which are, the Pope, King of Spain, Duke of Savoy, Toscany, Modena, Parma and Montoa; they derive their Pedegree from Allo Marquess of Esté who took upon him the Surname (which the Family is known by to this day) of the Citie Esté; and still appertains to them de jure. He married Alda daughter to the Emperour Otho the first; which happened an. 1000. and he had with her for Dower Modena and Reggio. Theobaldo d'Esté, Otho's Grandchilde, was seized of Ferrara in the year 1055, from Pope John the 12: but they were disseiz'd and absolutely dispossest of it by Clement the 8, anno 1598, after the decease of Alfonso the second, for want of lawful Issue male: yet Caesar d'Esté was then in being, who was son of Alfonso by Laura Ferraress; and he of­fered to clear it by manifest proof, that his father was lawfully married to his mother, and he the le­gitimate Heir. But the Pope was too hard for him, being surely possest of that which he so greedily thirsted after. And that Family still lays claim to it by a legal pretension. B ut the holy Father (and he you know is infallible) will prove him to be a natural son.

Yet maugre all this opposition, the Duke is still in possession of the Dukedoms of Modena and Reg­gio, the Principalities of Carpi and Correggio, the Earldom of Roli, and the Lordships of Sassevil, Gar­fagna, and Frignano, by the late Treaty of Pisa. Here was indeed a dispute between him and the Pa­pal Crown about the Valleys of Comachio; but this was not so hot, b ut it cool'd at length, and was de­cided upon these Conditions: The Prince being to receive 400000 Crowns for them; which were ac­cordingly paid, and 40000 more for damages, and some other advantageous terms. These Lands which we have before specified, together with those which he possesseth in the Dukedome of Ferrara, yield him annually full 500000 Crowns. All his Domi­nions are contiguous, and joining close one to the other; which renders him more considerable; and his strength and force consists in the number of his people. Carfagnana alone (being a Province be­longing to him) is reported to have fourscore and odde places well wall'd about, besides several other Strong-holds. He is able upon urgent occasions to lead into the Field 20000 of the Infantry, and 1000 of the Cavalry well arm'd and accoutred. And farther, he can without any inconveniencie whatso­ever maintain and keep half of that number. His His Country, tis true, and cannot be denied, lies o­pen to several bordering Princes; not for want of good places and well-fortified Castles, for he hath many seated at a very convenient distance; but the reason is, because his Terroir or Land lies level, and upon even ground.

The Princes of Modena follow the general Ma­ximes of their Neighbours, viz. to keep a good cor­respondence with Venice, which was always repu­ted the Protectress of Italian Libertie: but since the loss of Ferrara, they kept close to the Spaniard, till their Interest of late wrought a change upon their inclinations. For Duke Francis was in the late Italian Wars made General of the French; and Mazarine's Neece married to Prince Almerigo his son, who hath left a young son to succeed him. All things at present are managed by the advice of Car­dinal d'Esté, Protector of the French Interest at Rome, and the sole Promoter of the late Union of his House to the French Crown. He is Uncle to the now Duke of Modena; a very active and stir­ring person, and hath made the world speak honou­rably of him, for his actions both in Peace and War. He is extraordinarily well skill'd in the art of con­cealing his resentments, and understands the old Motto: Qui nescit dissimulare, &c. At Rome he keeps his Palace with more pomp and splendour than any of the Cardinalate: and though 'tis very much frequented by the Nobility, and a numerous train of people, yet they are all constantly and well paid. He is a Zealot in the French Cause; by whose friendship his Family is enriched and well moneyed, by reason of the late Generalship, as also the Coun­try: for the Souldiers took up their Winter-quar­ters in Modena; which occasioned a great resort of the chief Officers, as well as inferiour persons; and this did help the poor Populace to pay the Gabels, [Page 29]with which they are heavily burthen'd. At present there is one of the Name and Relation, Carlo d'Esté; a Knight of the Order of the Fleece, who attended on the Empress.

The Duke of Modena hath this advantage be­yond most Italian Princes, that some of his Subjects have Feifs of the Empire. There are many great Families; as, the rich Earls di San Paolo, the Benti­vogli, Rangoni, Buoncompagni; the Marquesses Spi­limberto, Peppoli, Gualengo, di Vignola, and Gualteri; the Earls Caprari, San Martino, di Molsa, di Mal­visia, Montecuculi, Tassoni, Ferrareze, di Conoscia, and some others. But all Princes and Republicks in Italy, the Venetian solely excepted, do homage, or pay Tribute to the Pope or Emperour; and the Duke of Modena among the rest does Homage to the Emperour for his whole State. Ranuccio the Duke of Parma was married to the sister of the late Duke, she being his second Wife, his former dying without Issue.

The present Duke of Modena, Francis the second, is very young; so that we have nothing to mention of his Person: and if he were of years, we must say of him, as of other Princes of Italy, They are extremely reserv'd, live very retiredly, cautiously receiving Forreigners; so that strangers rarely have admission into their Courts, or free access to their Persons for any continuance. They live a kinde of recluse and private life, affording no matter of obser­vation to the inquisitive that visit forraign Coun­tries.

JOSEPHA-MARIA d'Esté (at present the Il­lustrious Dutchess of York) is Sister to the above­mentioned Francis Duke of Modena, and daughter of Laura Martinozza the now Dutchess Dowager, by whom she was accompanied to Dover, where her Nuptials were solemnly celebrated, being Married by the Reverend Dr. Crew, Bishop of Oxford, to the most Illustrious Prince, his Royal Highness JAMES Duke of York, whom God preserve.

To conclude all: The Arms of the House of Esté, (the present Duke of Modena being of that Noble and Illustrious Family) is a Coat for its strangeness much taken notice of, and is thus Bla­zon'd.

The Arms are Palewise, of three Pieces. First, Partie per Fess in the Chief, Or: an Eagle displayed, Sables; membred, langued, and crowned, Gules; and in base Azure, three Flowers de Lis within a Bordure indented, Or, and Gules. Secondly, Gules two Keys in Saltier, the one Or, the other Argent, charged in Fess with an Escutcheon of pretence, Azure, suppor­ting an Eagle of the third membred, and crowned of the second: over all, in Chief, a Papal Crown Or, garnished with sundry Gems Azure and Purple. Thirdly: The third as the first, counterplaced.

Now this Coat, upon the failer of the House of Ferrara, belongs to the Family d'Esté, since Dukes of Modena and Reggio.