YOu may raise most sorts of Trees by Laying; the Ash being one of the worst, of any I have experienced: but it will take by Lay­ing; if you be an observer of the growth of the Ash, you then may read the Reason plainly, if that you keep but the eyes of your Un­derstanding open, which I take to be this: Of all the Trees that I know, an Ash shoots with the straightest shot from his Seed, and so continues till it comes to a great heighth, unless by accident; therefore seldom touch­ing the ground by its own growth: But if it should, it having no Arms to defend it against Cattel, and they being great lovers of the tops and leaves, prevent its natural Increase that way, finding it self rarely or never encreased by this kind of propagation, it being not accustomed to Laying, therefore the harder to grow.

Your Oak will grow of Laying, so will your Elm very frequently, as I have seen in several Hedges, without any thing of Art: As you may see the great leaved Elm thrive well of a Layer on a bank by the Road­side from Ware to the Right Woshipfull Sir Thomas Leventhorps house called Blacks-Ware. It is worth your noting, to increase this usefull wood in your Hedges; as also other sorts of Wood, which will be much for your profit, and also a great improvement to your Fence, though it be at present altogether neglected. Of the manner and several wayes of Laying, see the Fifth Chapter.

2. Several sorts of Trees will grow of Cuttings; the Manner and Time I shall shew in the succeeding Chapter. But let me now invite you when you fell your Woods, to give some of these Cuttings Quarters in the Naked places, and you shall find them afterwards to pay you well for their Board: Remember your Hedges also where they want Guests to furnish them.

You may raise many sorts of Trees by the Roots, or part of Roots [Page 2] of other Trees: The Kinds and Manner are shewed hereafter, which if you love your Woods and your self, you may take notice of.

3. Many sorts of Trees may be increased on other Stocks by Budding or Grafting, but this is more proper for Fruit-trees than for your Forest: For take it for granted, that it hinders the aspiring growth of Trees, and makes them bear more. I know my Lord Bacon tells you of Budding the Elm, and it will have greater leaves than ordinary: It is likely, if you bud the great-leaved Elm upon the small-leaved whilest it is young and full of sap, it will have larger leaves, especially than an old tree; but that I judge signifies little.

Enquiry may be made, whether by budding the Elm and also the Line­tree, if it would not make their seeds keep better than they do many years with us: I wish it were tryed. As for the manner of Budding and Grafting, I referre you to other subjects, for there are many have writ­ten largely thereof.

4. The last and best way to raise your Forrest-trees, is by their Seeds; and how to do that, I shall shew you in every particular Chapter, by me experienced. I wish every Noble-man or Gentleman that takes delight in these stately Monuments, would follow the Example of the Right Ho­nourable, and very much knowing in these Lines, the Earl of Essex, who hath now several thousands of my Raising.

Let me be bold to tell you, that one Ash-tree raised in a Nursery, and ordered as is hereafter shewed, is worth five taken out of a VVood. For there you shall have them grow taper and strong, so that when you re­move them, cut but off some of the side-boughs, and set them with great hopes of a stately Timber-tree. But if you take them out of a VVood, then will they be not so well rooted, nor taper, but top-heavy; therefore you must be forc'd to take off the Heads before you set them, and then expect at best but a good Pollard; and it is possible you may wait long before you get him to thrive: For the head being taken off, leaves such a wound which is long a curing; which you must doe, or else his Roots will not maintain that Head. Ever let me advise you to be as sparing in taking off the leading top-shot of an Ash or VValnut as you can possible.

Thus have I shewed the several wayes to raise Trees; for the per­forming of the same, read hereafter; and this is certain, that a few of your Trees raised in a Nursery, are much better than those you take out of VVoods. My Lord was a little before I came to him at some Charge more than ordinary to raise some Oaks: Their way was to fence in a great Oak in the Park, and then digged the ground; and when the Acorns were most of them down, then they raked them in: By this [Page 3] Husbandry, my Lord had got eight young Oaks about six year old: I per­swaded his Honour to take up his Fence, satisfying him we should raise them at a much cheaper lay. He therefore ordered me to take up these Oaks very carefully: I having two Men then at work with me, I bid the elder goe and take up these Oaks, but could not get him to goe by no means; he also had possest the other with such a tragical story, that I could not perswade him; which was, that there were few which took up an Oak, but either they or it dyed in a little time after. I told them that it was possible the Oaks might die in a short time, but they never the sooner. The Reason may be the same with that before, of raising an Ash by laying: It being not used to be removed, makes them the more difficult to grow when they are. But I went and took up my eight Trees, and lost Six of them the Winter following. Had they been taken up at two years growth, and the tap-root cut, you afterwards might remove them with little danger. I judge, if you can, it will not be amiss to save your Acorns or seeds of this Tree that hath been removed.

I Ever observed the shape, taste, skin or shell, that my Keyes, Nuts, Stones, Kernels, or Seeds had; and if I found by their shape, they were pory, and by feeling spongy, tasting little or very mild; I then did conclude to sowe these sorts of Seeds as soon as they were ripe, or as soon at least as I received them; which if they were kept but a little af­ter the time of their being ripe, I then expected but little success of those Seeds. To give you a taste of this Novelty, observe but these few among many more, that is, the Elm, Sallow, Popler, &c. and Angelico, Paspere, or Garden Samphire, Scosanara, &c.

I know 'tis a Tradition, that the Elm and Sallow have no seeds: Then how could I raise several of them of Seeds, as I have done? But if you will not believe me, I pray you ask the Earl of Essex, or several others therefore.

Now those Seeds that are of Taste mild, Skin or Shell close, you may keep them till the Spring approach, and longer, if temperately dryed; and dry, keep as your Acorns, and your Chesnuts, &c. but the Spring after they be gathered is a sure season to sow them, therefore deferre no longer.

But as for your Seeds that are of a hot or bitter taste, or have close skins or shells, you may keep them till the Autumn following after they be gathered, if occasion be, if they be ripe gathered and dry kept, so the fleshy part be clean taken off when that is ripe: Though I know an in­genious person did hold, that to sow them with their flesh on, (as Peaches or Cherries,) they would grow as well, as he said; but that was his mistake: For the fleshy part was ordained by the Almighty for the use of Man, Beasts or Birds, and tends nothing to the growth of the Seed or Stone, but rather to its dissolution, by stupefying it, as I have tryed by sowing the Kernels of rotten Pears and Apples, which would not grow though but a little time rotten. There be many Stones, Keyes and Seeds which be of a hot and bitter taste, as your Ash, Peaches, Almonds, the Mizerion, Mustard-seed, &c. yet though I say they may be kept long, yet I advise you not to neglect your season; for many of these Seeds and others will lie near two years in the Ground before they come up: if you sowe them in October, it will be the Spring come Twelve-months before they come up; and if you sow them Early in the Spring, they then will come up the next Spring.

Another way whereby you may know Seed of this Nature, is, by their long hanging on the trees: for there, Nature finding it self strong, taketh the less care to seek out early to preserve its kind, and also Almighty God hath made these very usefull for the Creatures in this world, there­fore hath ordered it thus by his Divine Providence. The Ash, Holly, &c. hang long on the tree, and lie long in the ground, the Elm, Sallow, Syca­more, fall soon, and come up soon.

THe very Form and Shape of Seeds hath instructed me how to set them: as an Acorn falls to the ground most with its small End downwards: Thus if they fall upon Mold or Moss, you may observe the most of them to be on one side, with the small end tend­ing most to the Earth. And I suppose that this posture is the best for to set any Stone or Nut, if you will be curious: For if you observe any Seed, of what Tree soever it be that grows in England, first it puts forth a Root at the small End, and when that Root hath laid hold of the Ground, then it puts forth the shot for the tree at the very same place where the Root came. Then seeing that both Root and shoot put out at the small End, if set with the small End downwards, the Body of the Stone or Seed may hinder the shoot; so that it is the best way to lay them on their sides in the Ground: if they be heavy seeds you may sow them the deeper, as Acorn, Peach, Apricock, Walnut, Chesnut, &c. about two or three Inches deep.

If light Seed, then cover them with but little Mold, as the Elm, &c. as ½ an Inch deep.

To conclude then, lay the flattest side of your Seed downwards; as if it be a Peach stone, set it as it will lye on a Table, or the like, and it will lie with the Crack where the shell parts uppermost, and the other crack lowermost to let out the water, as I judge; for Kernels in Stones or Shells do not love too much water at first.

Thus have I shewed you the several wayes to raise Trees: That is, how they may be raised, and how to know the time, at least to assist you to know the time to set them by their shapes, &c. as also how to set them the best way by their Form and Weight, which may be some as­sisting to you, if you meet with far-Countrey seeds.

My Lord had thirteen sorts of strange seeds sent him, as I remember from Goa: I never saw the like, nor none that saw them here. By the help of those aforesaid Reasons, I raised ten of the thirteen sorts, though some of them lay almost a year in the ground: But I also must tell you I lost all my ten sorts the first Winter, but one sort, and that the second, for want of a Green-house: some of them I suppose were Annuels. I [Page 6] shall give you one Chapter more of Seeds, and then I will shew you fully what as yet I have but named.

LEt your Keyes be through-ripe, or when you find them to be­gin to fall much, which is a sure sign of any Fruit or seeds Ripe­ness, (unless by accident) gather them off some young, straight, thriving tree: My reason of gathering them from off a young thriving tree, is▪ then will your Keyes or seed be the larger and solider; there­fore by consequence they be the abler and likelier to shoot the stronger, and to maintain themselves the better: And I know by Experience, that the seeds gathered of old Plants or Trees, or old seeds, so the seeds be perfect, will come up somewhat sooner than the seed of young Trees: my aforesaid Reason doth this somewhat demonstrate; or take it thus, Nature finding her self weak in these Seeds, doth (like a provident Mo­ther) seek the sooner to provide for her weak Children; as a great Phi­losopher and Naturalist saith, That Nature is one in divers things, and various in one thing. See Parad. pag. 90. of the Tree of Life.

And to gather them off a straight and thriving tree, 'tis likelier they will run more up, and grow straighter than those which be gathered of Pollards. This I know, that Nature doth delight very much in Imitati­on, and in Plants and Trees like doth endeavour to produce its like: though I know, that by the scituation, or ground, or grafting of some sort of Stocks, that by any of these the trees may and will alter something, both in growth and largeness of Fruit, and earlyer, or the contrary, but the species will be still the same. To which I adde, good keeping or dres­sing of any tree, doth much improve its growth, and largeness of Fruit or Seeds.

[Page 7] Now the Seed being that part of the Plant which is endowed with a Vi­tal Faculty to bring forth its like, it contains potentially the whole Plant in it, therefore it may and is the more to be observed: Or as a learned Physitian hath it, speaking of Man and the World; The Chaos or first Matter was made a World, and of this World was made Man: so a Tree groweth from the Seed, the Seed is the beginning of the Tree, and in every grain or seed of a Tree there lies hid another three. See Philoso­phy Reformed, page 58.

The Industrious Farmer or Yeoman will take care that the Grain which he soweth be of the best Kind for Largeness and Goodness in every particular, and hath oft found by Experience to his loss, that the Corn which is taken to sowe from that which was your smooted or mill dew'd, doth oft produce smooted or black Corn again; he knowing also that this black Corn which is like dust within, will not grow: Then what should be the Reason that that which growes in the same Ear will oft-times produce black smooted Corn, that hath nothing but a little black dust in it, or a black flinty Kernel of little or no use, but harmfull to the rest, though that which you sowe seem sound, and a very likely berryed Corn? When I have found by Experience, that Wheat which hath not been so likely to the Eye as that which was freer from smooted Corn, hath brought or produced clearer Corn by much than the others. Now I have dis­coursed with some which would not spare to say positively, that your smooted or black Wheat would grow, and so produce black Wheat again, which is a great Mistake: But this I know, that your Wheat which is like black dust within, will not grow at all; nor some of your black flinty Wheat, but some of it will produce blades, some stalks, with ears, but no sound grain; some with good and bad in one ear, and so the nearer it is to perfect sound grain, the nearer it produceth its like: Yet though this may and will produce some good and some bad, as I say, yet no black smooted grain (unless meeting with some accidental Cause, if the Grain be perfect sound) but according to its defect so may be the success of your Crop.

Now this which I call the Accidental Cause, is the Mildew, which may well be so called, because of its Malignity, especially to Wheat and Hops, because in them most perfected though many other Plants suffer as much: This Maldew or Mildew, is a Dew which is drawn from the Earth and Herbs in a drye and calm time, and when Herbs are in their prime, by the Sun; and wanting wind to fan off their grosness, and also being drawn from Herbs, which make it thick and sweet, and not so active to aspire: 'tis most in your inclosed Grounds and Valleys: and to those grounds which lie tending to the Oriental part of the Heavens, as all Blast­ing winds are.

[Page 8] Now I suppose these may be the Reasons your Valleyes do afford more moysture than your Hills, as is oft seen by your Mists which are more frequent in them than on Hills: this being drawn up by the Sun in the Day-time, and wanting wind to assist its Motion (as I said before) doth hang in the lower Region, and when the Sun sets, it falls upon your Plants with its thick clammy substance; and in those whose bark is tender and young, and pores open with the heat of the season, hinders the sap of the Plant or Tree to ascend to nourish his flowers or shoot. 'Tis observed, that when your Wheat doth shoot up to Ear and flower, it doth it suddenly, and likewise your Hops, and then this Clammy or Mildew coming upon it before the Air hath hard­ned it, to resist it; For the Air being warm, Nature doth not so much as dream of this unkind Enemy: And if it falls on Wheat when the Ear is new formed, then there is the black smooty Wheat; but if the Ear hath blown even when or before it comes, or that the whole stalk be not surrounded with it, then you shall have some of your grains good, and some bad, according as they were in setting, or find Nourish­ment.

I have oft observed in your black Heart, white Heart, and other great-leaved Cherries, this Dew to fall upon them at the top, just at the be­ginning of Midsommer shoot, and hath so stopped the shoot, that it hath shot forth in other places below; and on the top of the shoots you may see many little Flies feeding on this Dew; and on the Leaves of Oak and Maple, 'tis plainly to be seen and tasted; and though destructive to Corn, &c. yet it is mighty Relief to the industrious Bees.

The Reason why those grounds which hang from the Horizon to the East, are most subject to this Dew, and to Blasting, as it is termed, may be (as I judge) the Suns drawing these vapours towards it; just as a great Fire draweth the Air in a Room to it so the Sun having set these in Motion, yet not having strength enough to draw them into the middle Region, to form them into a Cloud, doth yet draw them till he is below our Horizon, then these Dews tend to the Earth from whence they were ta­ken, and in motion to the West do as it were fall upon that Ground which hangs Eastward at right Angles, therefore offensive to them most.

But since I am speaking of this usefull Grain Wheat, I shall take no­tice of that which I know is used with good success: They take their Seed-wheat, and steep it twenty or twenty four hours in water and Salt, which is found by experience to do good to the Wheat against the black­ness, and helps it in its growth; the Reasons I conceive are these: The steeping it prepares it for its spearing, and makes it take root the sooner; [Page 9] therefore if late in sowing, steep the longer; if early, not so long: And if there be any Grain that is not perfect sound, this will either kill or cure it. And I suppose that Brine to Wheat, is as Sack to a young Child, a little doth a great deal of good; but have a care you do not let it lie too long in a strong Brine, lest you stupifie it, or kill it with too much Kindness. I do advise my Countrey-men, if late in sowing any of their Grains, to steep especially Barley, as well as Wheat; if your Grain be spear'd, it is never the worse, provided you sow it before the spear be chill'd or dryed; therefore commit it to the Ground, and cover it as you can. Your Wheat, Oats, and Barley differ much in their growth from other seeds; for they put forth their roots at the great end, and then one blade or long leaf at the small end, which comes between the skin and the body of the seed. Your Beans and Pease put forth their Root at the side, and then the same sort of Leaf, at the same place where the Root came out, that grows on the stalks.

So doth your Walnut, Chesnut, Horse-Chesnut, Peaches, Almonds, Apricocks, Plumbs, &c. and the onely difference from Beans and Pease, is, that these Stone-fruits put forth at the small ends, and the other al­wayes at the sides.

In like manner there be several sorts of Trees, and most sorts of Plants that be small, which put forth Root at the small end; and as soon as that Root hath laid hold of the ground, they then send out two false Leaves, nothing like those that grow on the Tree or Plant, which two false Leaves are the seed, which divides into two parts, and so stand some small time on the top of the ground: and then between these two false Leaves comes forth a Shoot, which produceth leaves like those of the Tree or Plant from whence it came. Of this way of growth, there be an infinite number both of Trees and Plants, as the Elm, Ash, Sycamore, Maple, Pear, Apple, Quince, and the most sorts of the seeds of Trees which are not environed by Stones or Shells: of seeds, the Melon, Parsnip, Carrot, Carduus, Angelica, and indeed most sorts of seeds.

THose sorts of Trees which will grow of Cuttings, are the easiest to raise by Layings, some of which sorts you may see in the next Chapter.

[Page 10] Now touching the best time for laying your Layers of Trees▪ observe, that if they be Trees that hold their Leaf all Winter, as Firres, Pines, Holly, Yew, Box, Bayes, Lawrels, Elix, &c. Let such be laid about the latter end of August.

But if they be such as shed their Leaf in Winter, as Oak, Elm, Line, Sycamore, Apple, Pear, Mulberry, &c. let such be laid about the middle of October. I do grant that you may lay at any time of the Year, but these times I take to be the best; for then they have the whole VVinter and Summer to prepare and draw Root in, at that time of the year the Sun having so much power on the sap of the Tree, as to feed the Leaf and Bud, but not to make a shoot: and if that little sap that rises, be hindred, as it is by some of the following wayes of laying, the Leaves and Buds yet gently craving of the Layer, makes the Layer prepare for Root, or put forth root a little to maintain it self, being it finds it can­not have it from the Mother-plant: and being it wants but little Nou­rishment at that time of the Year, I think it is better to lay Layers of Trees, and to set Cuttings, than at other times: In Summer when the sap is much abounding, or in VVinter when the sap stirres little, or in the Spring when the sap begins to rise; for then it comes too suddenly to draw sap from the Layer before it hath drawn or prepared for root: for Nature must be courted gently; though I know in small Plants, the Spring or Summer doth very well, for they being short-lived, are there­fore the quicker in drawing root: and besides that, Trees are many times laid, as they are not.

As for those Trees that are apt to grow of Cuttings, take but some of the boughs, and lay them into the Ground, covering them about half a foot with fresh fine Mould, leaving them with the end of your Layer a­bout one foot, or a foot and a half out of the ground, keeping them moist in Summer; and in Twelve Months time you may remove them if root­ed, if not, let them lie longer.

Another way is, take a Bough you intend to lay, and cut it half way through right cross the wood, then slit it up towards the end, half a foot, or according as your Layer is in bigness, lay the slitted place into the ground, and you shall find that slitted place take root, if laid as the former, and so ordered. This way you may encrease many fine Flow­ers and small Plants, but they being out of my Element at this time, I shall not speak of the ordering them, for fear I seem tedious to some.

Another way to lay a Layer of a Tree, is, take a piece of VVyer, and tie it hard round the bark of the place you intend to lay into the ground, twisting the ends of the VVier that it may not untie: prick the [Page 11] place above the VVier thorough the bark with an Aul in several places, then lay it into the ground as the first.

A fourth way of Laying of trees, is, Cut a place round, about one Inch or two, where you find it most convenient to lay into the ground, and so proceed as is shewed in the first way of Laying.

A Fifth way to lay some sorts of Trees, is, to twist the place you in­tend to lay into the ground as you do a withe, and lay it as is shewed in the first way of Laying; by this way and the first, you may furnish your Woods and Hedges: For they being easie, any ordinary man will per­form the same. Thus you may from one Stub, as a Sallow, or the like, between one Fall and another of your VVood, for a Rod square of Ground and more, (if that one Stub produce but strong shoots) fill it well with Wood: For when the Stub hath got two or three years shoot, then lay round it, as before at large is shewed, there letting them re­main to produce new Stubs.

But if you would increase by laying some young Trees from an high Standard, whence you cannot bend the boughs down to the ground, then you must prepare either Box, Basket, or Pot, and fill them full of fine sifted Mould, putting a little rotten VVillow-dust with this Earth, for that keeps Moysture to help the Layer to draw root; then set the Pot or Box thus fill'd with Earth, upon some Tressel or Post, as your Inge­nuity will direct you, then lay your Bough by the second, third, or fourth way of Laying, leaving not too much head out, because the wind will offend it if you doe; and by its own motion be likely to rub off the ten­der young Root; and thus lay your Hops this way. These things ob­served, you may raise many choyse Trees, as Mulberry, Hors-Ches­nut, &c.

These Rules may instruct you sufficiently concerning the propagation of Trees by Laying; but let me tell you, it is hard to raise a fine straight Tree by a Layer, or Cutting: I have hinted at the Reasons before.

Note, the smaller your Boughs be, Set them the less out of the ground, and keep them clean from VVeeds, that they spoyl not your Layers.

Alsonote, that the harder the VVood is, then the young VVood will take root best, laid in the ground; but if a soft VVood, then older boughs will take Root best: Now you that be Lovers of wood, make use of these sure Directions, and if you repent, then blame me.

IF your Ground be moist you may Set with success any sort of Willow, Sallow, or Osier, Alder, Water-Poplers, any sort of Apple that hath a black burry Knot breaking out of the Boughs; that Knot, if set a Foot deep in good Ground, and the top a Foot out, is apt to grow: Some sorts of Wildings, Codlings, Gennitings, some Sweetings, the smiling Wil­low, Quinces, Tamarisk, Lawrel, Firr, Box, &c.

The time that I have spoke on for Laying your Layers, is also the very best time for Setting of Cuttings, which you may see in the fore-going Chapter, to be in August, for those sorts of Trees that hold their Leaves; and October for those Trees that cast their Leaves in Winter.

Those sorts of Trees that do grow of Cuttings are common, therefore you may take your choice the better for the bigness of your Cuttings; which I Advise you to let be from half an Inch to one Inch Diameter: If they be less than half an Inch Diameter, then they will be weak, with a great Pith, which Pith will take wet, and be likely to Kill your Cutting: And besides, when your Cuttings be so small, they be not prepared with those pores, (as at present I name them) that is, little black specks on the Bark where the Root breaks out, I suppose, if Set in the Ground; or else Almighty God, for a Sign to shew Man that those that have that Mark upon them, will grow as your Elder, Alder, Sallow, Water-Poplers &c. hath; and also if they be Young, they then have not that burry Knot, which is very apt to take Root, as your Codlings, and some sorts of Ap­ples have; in hard Wood, the Younger the better: But if they be greater than one Inch Diameter, then the top of your Cutting will be long in co­vering over, therefore may somewhat decay your Cutting by the wet ly­ing on the Head so much.

But you may Set your Willow and Water-Popler of a greater size, be­cause they be Set for Pollard, where Cattle come, therefore they must be great and high, to be out of their harming the sooner; but the other size is most proper for your Hedges and VVoods.

If you set them by a Crow of Iron, or by an Instrument which they have about Cambridge, that bores a hole in the Earth, somewhat like to an Auger; Let the Foot be free from cracks, cut smooth at bottom, and the [Page 13] top of your Cutting the like, but let your top be slanted off; take care you do not rub up the Bark when you set your Cuttings; therefore make your holes large when you set them, and ram or tread the Earth close to them, keeping them moist the first Summer; and let the slant cut off the Head hang downward, and if your Cutting be choise, put a little soft VVax on the Head and Foot to keep out Air and VVet.

VVhen you set any Tree or Trees in your VVoods or Hedges, be mind­ful to put in one or two Cuttings with them, it will not be much time lost to do it, but well spent, as I have often proved.

AS for such sorts of Trees which may be Raised onely from part of a Root of another Tree, there be many; but of those that I have made Experience, I shall in this place give an Account.

First, Let the Tree be a thriving Tree, but not too Young, nor an Old Tree: For if it be too Young, then the Roots will be too small for this purpose; if too Old, 'tis possible the Roots may be a decaying, and then not fit for this purpose.

Let the Roots be from a quarter of an Inch, to an Inch and a half Dia­meter, and from some Young thriving Tree is the best, for in them the Sap is plentiful, and therefore will put forth the greater shoot: then in the lat­ter end of February, or the beginning of March, digg round the Trees you intend to increase from, till you find such Roots as before are mention­ed, and taking your Knife, cut them three or four Inches from the great Root, smooth at the place you cut off; then Raise up that end, putting in the Earth to keep it up, that when your Ground is levelled again, the end of this Root so cut off, may be two or three Inches above Ground.

I do Judge the fore-said time of the Year to be the best, for then the Sun hastning to the Vernal Equinoctial, or rather this Star of the Earth, to Libra, the Sun having heat, and a stronger drawing faculty on the Head of the Tree, draweth by its secret influence on the several Branches on the Head, and the Head from the Body, and both Head and Body from the Roots; and the Roots being furnished with Sap from the Earth, to sup­ply the Body and the Head, is then the fitter to produce with that Sap a [Page 14] new Tree, likelier than when 'tis in its full Sap, viz. in Summer; for then the abundance of Sap will rather choak a Bud, than produce one out of the Root, if the Root be of such sort as will produce Trees from part of the Roots; and then the Weather is so hot, that it suffocates a new Bud that will be so full of Sap, as that will be, if any: and as to the opening of the Roots at that Season, how unnatural 'tis to the roots of the Mother-Tree, you may easily Judge.

And then, to do this in Winter, though there is a continual Motion and Ascending of the Sap from the Roots (unless Accidentally hindred by Frosts) all the Year long (for Nature is no Sluggard) yet to cut the Roots then, and to expose them thus cut, as afore-said, to the extremity of the Weather, which then usually is great, the Frost and VVet pierce that new wound so much, that 'tis more likelier to Ruine, than to Increase its Kind; but if it doth Live, the Spring is the time when it will Bud; therefore by Consequence the best. My Reason for cutting the Root two or three Inches off from the great Root is (then) that two or three Inches of the Root will put forth many Roots at the end, especially if smooth cut off, and so the better for the Tree from whence you take the Roots. Thus much for the manner of Raising by part of Roots; the Kinds which may be thus Raised, are these that follow, viz. Elm, Maple, Poplar, Aspen, Abete, Cherry, Crab-tree, Plumb, VVhite bush, Serves, &c.

ANY sort of Dung that is very hot of it self, as Pigeons, Hens-dung, Sea-Coal, or VVood-Ashes, Soot, or Malt-dust, such or as heats af­ter 'tis laid in the Ground; as Horse-dung, and Horse-Litter, or Green Grass, or VVeeds: these or the like, unless a small Quantity, and in very cold Ground, are better saved than used for Trees, especially Forest-trees; some Reasons may be given for this. First, their Fore-Fathers have not met with such Kindness, therefore their Children do not, nor cannot digest it so well. Secondly, these sorts of Dungs are good for several sorts of Plants, especially Annuals, for 'tis the Nature of them, where they meet with such warm Entertainment, to come up the sooner, provided the Dung be not so hot as to burn them; for Nature hath ac­customed [Page 15] them so much to a Yearly decay, that the Seeds of them will lay hold of the first Opportunity, and put forward for their Journey, ei­ther Spring, Summer, Autumn, or Winter; according as they meet with Provision for their Progress, till they have Accomplished that which was done for them, viz. produced Seeds.

When your Forrest-Tree knoweth its continuance to be long, and that Naturally it hath many Years to produce its like, it will not be much forced by Art or Artificial means; for who can by the best Art or Care that can be used, force the Keys of an Ash to come up in a Year, or to grow but one Inch? For it will lie a Year or more before before it will begin to shoot; when as several sorts of Annuals will at any time of the Year come up in three or four days, if their Entertainment be accordingly. There­fore neither your Forrest-trees not their Seeds require much Dung, but love a ground Trenched deep with some Addition of fresh Earth, such as they delight in; as if your Ground be a strong Clay, then trench it deep, and mix it with fat Sand, Rubbish of Buildings, Sea-coal-ashes, High­way-Earth that hath drift Sand in it, or small Gravel-Lime, or Lime-Rubbish, &c.

And if your Ground be a Gravel or Sand, then trench it and mix it with Loom-clay, the turf and upper part of each is very good, digging the Ground deep, and mixing it well: But if it be for an Orchard, you may add to any sort of Ground; some rotten dung of Horse or Cow, &c. will do very well, so it be not where your Root is; but set the Roots of any sort of Trees in fresh fine Mould.

In stiff Ground it is good to trench it with Straw, Thatch, Litter, VVoodstack-Earth, or small wood, but let not your Roots stand upon these by no means, nor upon no dung or turf, but let them be at least one Inch or two from every Root; and then in a Year or two, when the Roots of your Tree comes to this Dung, or Soyl, the Ground will then have made it rotten and fit to lead your Root along in the Veins as it lieth for them, to find their Nourishment the better.

Note, that those Trees whose Roots run shallow, do most delight in light Ground, as on a Gravel your Beech, Cherry, Ash; if mixed with Loom, the Elm or any; on a Brick Earth the Oak, Elm, Pear, &c. But for these I shall refer you to each particular Chapter of their Kinds.

Of all sorts of Ground for Trees, or most sorts of Plants, I take your Clays to be the worst: that is, your strong blue, strong white, or strong red; but if any of these have some stones Naturally in them, they make them the better; and the nearer they turn to a mixture of Loom, they be so much the better: So likewise Gravelly or Sandy Ground, the nearer a Loom the better; for a Loom, that is, a light Brick-Earth, is the most [Page 16] Natural Ground for Gardens or Plantations that is.

Your strong Grounds are worse for Trees than your light, especially for their Seeds; for they be more subject to great Weeds, as Couch-grass, Thistles, Nettles, &c.

When your Gravelly Ground hath in most places a short Grass, or Mother of Thyme, or Moss, commonly the greatest Plant is Fern, which is very Natural to Seeds of Trees, and to the Roots of Trees: You may often see several Young Trees come up in Fern, which Naturally grows on your light Ground, therefore is most Natural for the increase of wood: But your strong Ground doth most commonly produce the greatest Oak, and your Gravelly or shallow Ground the finest Grain; that is, when Trees are on such Ground as they do Naturally Love to grow on, they then pro­duce the greatest Grain, for then are their Annual Circles the greater; therefore such Trees are your strongest and toughest Timber. But when a Tree grows on a Ground it Naturally doth not like, then the Annual Circles being small, the Grain of such a Tree must by consequence be finer, and the Wood not so tough; so that these stately Trees do not love such great variety as your Annuals: For if they be in a Ground which they do not very well like, if you give them but room by deep and often digging, they will then search the further from home, and provide such Nourishment as will make them thrive, and be stately.

When as your Annual Plants, and others that be not very long Lived, they will desire better, and more variety of Dung than your Forrest-trees. I have often admired what should be the Reason that some Plants will not come to their perfection, unless they stand on Dung, or that which will give a great heat; which would kill the Seeds of several others, did they but stand there one day: But as for the Reason of the heat that such Plants desire, it is because they were made for hot Countries, and therefore if we would have them to come to Maturity in our cold one, we must give them warm Lodging, especially in the Spring, which is too cold with us for them: but what is it then that Plant does feed on?

But then to consider well this, why the heat of Grass or green Weeds should bring them forward as well as dung of Horses, provided you can keep it but as temperate (for 'tis subject to be too hot) and as long last­ing, for it will not keep its heat long: where is then the salt, Sulphur and Mercury or Spirit in the Dung more than in the Grass to feed these Plants? Also I have Observed, that if you take Rich Mould, half or more of it rotten dung, and cover one end of your Bed with; the other end cover the same thickness with poor hungry Mould, provided you make it fine and fit for the Roots to run in, this last shall do as well, and many times better for any seeds on a hot bed, than the Rich Mould: Where is then [Page 17] the salt Sulphur, or Mercury in the rich Mold, more than in the hungry, as most do hold, that the richer the mould, the more of them, and that all Plants draw their Nourishment from these matters; when I know that the seeds (most we sow on hot beds) could well digest that matter in the rich Mould, if it were there more than in the pore, and come on much forwarder in these Molds, each, if not on a hot-bed: the rich Mould would bring on Plants much stronger than the poor, pro­vided the seeds be of such Plants that are quick of digestion.

Pidgeons dung sown thin upon cold Land, and early in the Spring, is very good for Barley: But if sown late, and on dry hot ground, it will then do more harm than good, for it will burn up your seeds or plants: this dung is too hot and quick for the seeds of Trees; for 'tis the nature of Pidgeons to eat Salt, and to go to the sea-side early in the Mornings, and there to pick up Salt, which the heat of the Sun makes by drying up the salt water, and then leaving the salt upon the sand. Now this Fowl feeding so much upon salt, the dung of it is hotter and salter than any Fowl I know: Now the Reasons why it is good for cold Lands, and withall to sow it Early, are these: Every one knowes that 'tis the Nature of salt, that the dryer and hotter 'tis kept, the more it keeps its own Body, and doth not turn to water: And when it stands in a cold and moyst place, it then dissolves in a little time to water; and when 'tis turned into this Element of VVater, then is it fit for the nourish­ing and feeding of seeds, especially Annuals: For they be alwayes prepared to set forward in their Journey, provided they meet but with suitable Entertainment. But the seeds of most Forrest-trees, they will stay the time that their and our great God hath allotted them.

But then why Salt should be a feeder of Plants or Seeds, I take the Reason to be this, namely, Salt-water; (yet I do not mean of Salt in a great quantity, and in meet places that will turn it into water.) I have oft observed, that Salt if fallen upon a Board or other place, it will be long a drying; and if Heat have made it drye, then Dews or Rain make it moyst again, then it steams forth, and that it is which nourisheth all Plants: VVhen if on a hot and dry ground, and late in the Spring, if dry weather come, then it doth not nor cannot yield its steam or fume, as Paracelsus in his Philosophy to the Athenians, lib. 3. p. 57. saith: Every Body or tangible substance is nothing but a curdled fume; whence (saith he) we may conclude, that there is a manifold Coagulation, one of VVood, another of Stones, a third of Mettals, but the Body is no­thing but Fume, smoaking out of the Matter or Matrix in which it is. So that which groweth out of the Earth, is a fume, rising out of the [Page 18] Moysture of Mercury, which is various, and sendeth forth several fumes for Hearbs, Trees, &c.

I do remember when I was a Boy, about fourteen years of Age, the Sea brake a bank into a Marsh of my Fathers, in Lincoln-shire, and did over-flow that Marsh and some others with salt Sea-water; the next Summer proving dry, all our Grass was clearly burnt up, so that I was very much concerned for some particular Reasons, thinking that all our Grass had been quite killed, and indeed so it appeared: The next Summer proved wet, so that towards the latter end we had some Grass again, and the third Summer we had Grass enough, but the fourth and many after in abundance. So that it appears, the ground was stupi­fied with too much Kindness at first, but after the Rain had allayed the too much strength of the Salt water, then the Grass could well digest the gentle Fume: I would have those that lay Salt on their Gravel-walks to kill their weeds, observe if in a few years more they do not produce more weeds than some other that had not Salt laid on them at all.

Sea-sand is a very good Compost for Ground, especially for stiffe Ground, for there it doth the too main parts to plants, or any seed or tree; that is, it makes way for the tree or seed to root in stiffe ground, and makes a Fume to feed it: but this is too nimble for the seeds of trees, (unless a very little) observe the Reasons before.

Mault-dust is a most excellent Compost in a small quantity, for many sorts of Annual seeds, as I have oft tried with good success; but the Reasons are still the same: for this being a small part of the roots of the Barley, and being very dry, drinks in the Element of water, which is the principal and first matter of all things, (as a learned Author hath it, in the Genealogy of Minerals, p. 44) So wonderfully hath God created VVater, the first Matter of Nature, which though it be so tender and feeble a substance, yet from thence is created the most solid and du­rable Fruit: that is, from the fume of an Oyly, Earthy water, is the Life of all Plants. The parts of the dust being thus filled, upon the Suns attracting that and the Plant, the Root embraces this Fume: This little root, it having not life to grow, turns to Earth, and its Grave is a room to lead the root of another Plant in: it will give good entertain­ment to its own Kind.

Thus you see, the Destruction of one is the increase of another: A little of this is good for some seed of Forrest-trees; but sow it not too thick, for any thing, lest it mold, or turn Musty.

Note, that the place which is best for the root to be in, when the Tree or Plant is growing, is, the place that bringeth it soonest to De­struction [Page 19] when dead, and contrary: for a Tree cannot live in water, or alwayes dry, and those preserve the Timber longest when the Tree is dead. This may be further improved by ingenuity.

Note also, that the place which is best to keep the Fruit of a Tree in, is the very worst for a Tree or Plant to grow in, and con­trary.

Old Rags of Woollen Cloth, as is found by Experience by the in­dustrious Farmer, cut into small pieces, are a good Compost for their Ground: they draw the Dew and Rain to them, and keep it till Sol's presence makes it fit for the Roots of the Plant: I judge them to be best for a pure dry soyl, because they hold their Moysture long, and I sup­pose 'tis a soyl that is lasting; for Wooll will not rot with wet sud­denly. A little of this for the Trees or Seed on a dry Ground, will do good to them, as appears by the aforesaid Reasons: For Annuals better.

Conny-clippings are of the same nature (but I do suppose they will not last so long) and are better for a stiffe ground.

Saw-dust, if well rotten, and of soft woods, is very gratefull to the tender Roots or Seeds of any sort; 'tis good for dry ground, for it holds water, and makes way for the Roots of Trees very well, and is as good as most Preparers are.

Rotten-dust out of hollow Trees, especially those of soft wood, is a rich Leader of tender young Roots: the Reason is shewed before.

Soot is good to kill Moss, for its heat kills the Roots, for they lye on the top of the Earth: and good also to keep worms from doing harm to your Seeds.

Sea-coal Ashes are very good in cold stiffe ground, either for Trees, or any other Plant, to make that ground work well, and to keep it hollow for the Roots to run in, &c.

Rubbish of Buildings, that is, broken Bricks, and Stones and Lime is very good for the Roots of Trees in a stiffe cold Ground, the Reason is told you.

Chalk broken small into pieces, is a very good Compost for stiffe cold grounds. There is much difference in Chalk, but that which is soft, fat Chalk, is good for such Ground as aforesaid, and for ground that is not very stiffe. Let your Reason instruct you further.

Lime is a very rare Compost for cold Grounds, and stiffe Clayes, for its heat causeth a fume, and its tenderness makes way for the Roots, to fetch home their Nourishment, and its heat is great at first, there­fore lay not on too much on no ground; and let that be slacked. If your dry ground be it your Tree delight to grow in, and you are forced [Page 20] to set them on wet, then adde some of this Lime among your Earth.

Clay, especially that sort which is a light Brick-Earth, is very good for such Land that is a light shovey Gravel, or hath too much sand in it: Such grounds as these, they do not retain the spirit of Plants: for when Nature hath by the two Lovers, Star-Fire and VVater, gene­rated their Babe, such ground as this doth drink down too fast, and again doth drye too hastily; so that the water cannot have time to leave nor to prepare its slime; which is the Mercury that makes that fume which feeds all Plants and their seeds: But this Clay must not be digged too deep, for then it wanteth of that which feedeth Plants, &c.

I have taken the green Slime that is common in standing waters, (I do not mean the Frogs Spawn, which is cast many times into this) and have dryed it and beat it into fine dust, and then have mixed it with good fresh Earth, and have found very good success in raising several sorts of Flower-seeds and others: Though I have Notes of them, yet it is out of my Road to speak of them now, being I am Writing of the stately Forrest-trees. However, I may (its possible) write some­what of them, if the Lord permits, and according as I find these few Lines Accepted of by some of the Royal Oaks of this our Age.

For I do suppose that there is not one thing in Gardening yet well known: For (as a Learned Author hath it,) he that knows a thing well, must know what it was, is, and shall be; Therefore all humane Know­ledge is but a shadow of superficial Learning reflecting upon mans Ima­gination, but not the least thing comprehended substantially.

But to the business in hand, take Clay or Loom, and lay it on your Ground, not too thick, the beginning of Winter, and there let it be till the Frost hath made it fall into Mould, then in some dry open time harrow it all over: and if it be Ground you plow, then plow it in a drye time, but if it be Ground you trench for Forrest or Fruit-trees, observe to order it so: for by thus doing the Clay will mix with the Sand or Gravel much the better: The better that any man chew­eth his Meat, it is certainly the easier to digest; and the dryer you put it into your ground (provided it hath but time to water it self well before your trees be set) 'tis the better; for then it draws the Mercu­ry, and stores it up till the Roots have occasion for it: for 'tis quickly exhaled out of sand: but the Clay holds his store till a time of Ne­cessity, and then contributes to the Roots, that is, in drye weather: and the smaller you make it to mix with your ground, the likelier the small Roots (as well as the great) are to meet with it.

Note further, that the smaller your Plants be, the finer must your Earth be made, by skreening, fifting, beating, turning, &c.

[Page 21] I know by good success this to be true: for the Right Honourable my Lord (and the more to be honoured because a great Planter, and as great a Lover thereof) gave me order to make three Walks of Line-trees, from the New Garden to the New Bowling-green, and withall to make them descend towards the House, as neer as we could; which to doe, I was forced to cut through one Hill thirty Rod, most of the Hill two foot-deep, into a sharp Gravel, and the greatest part of all the length of the Walks was the same; they being Trees that I raised of Seeds, most of them, and the rest of Layers, at Hadham-Hail, they being with my Lord ever since their Minority, and he ma­ny times their Barber, engaged him to have the more particular Kind­ness for them, therefore he ordered me to doe what I thought good in preparing the ground for them: which I did as followeth.

First I levelled the Hill, and when I had brought the Ground neer to the Level concluded on, I staked out my ground where every Tree should stand, and then ordered my holes to be made for my Trees, each hole three foot-deep, and four foot-wide, being the ground was so bad: This I did neer a Year before I set my Trees, and having the convenience of Brick-Earth near, I got near a Load to every hole, and mixed this with the Earth digged out of the Holes, turning it over twice, and in dry weather throwing out the greatest Stones, but the Turf I did throw into each Hole (the grass-side downward) as soon as they were made; but the Hill of Gravel I trenched that with Loom, Cow-dung, and the Litter under the Cow-racks, two Spade deep, and five foot on each side every row of Trees.

Thus having prepared my ground, and the season of the year come, about the beginning of November, 1672. I had the Trees taken up with good help, as carefully as I could, and carried to Cashiobury, the place of their now Abode; and then having good store of help, and good Mould prepared, of the smallest and finest, I set the Trees with the upper part of the Roots of each Tree level with the top of the Ground, making a round hill half a foot high about every tree, and the Compass of the Hole.

Having prun'd the heads of each Tree, and cut off the bruised Roots, and the Ends of such roots as were broken, I sorted the Trees, and ob­served this Method in placing them, namely; I set the highest next the Bowling-green, and so shorter and shorter till the lowest were next to the Garden; which I did for these Reasons: Next the Green was the worst Ground, and the Trees more in danger of being spoyled, by reason of a Market-path that goeth cross that end of the VValks to Watford.

[Page 22] Thus having set my Trees streight in their Rows, and trod the Earth close to their Roots, and made my Hills, I then laid round every Tree, upon those Hills, wet Litter taken off from the Dung-hill, a good Barrow-full to every Tree, and covered that with a little Mould, leaving them to take their rest for a time; but early in the Spring I found them to begin their Progress, and that Summer they had such Heads shot forth, that I was forced to cut off some of their Heads (that is, the side­boughs) to keep the Wind from breaking them: There is in these four rows of Trees 296. and of these I lost not one Tree the first Year, but they did grow and shoot so well, that there were several Noble Men that saw them, did think, as they said, that they were not removed the Year before; but the year after we had three spoyled by some base Men or Boys.

Of the very same parcel of Trees my Lord gave Sir William Temple thirty of the best of them, which he himself saw chosen out; they were Set at Sir William's House at Sheen, a much better Natur'd Ground than ours, yet they lost all but six of them the first Year: I saw a walk of Line-trees (but I think they were the Bastard-kind, which we have growing in many of our Woods in England) set at Debden-hall, the Right Worshipful Sir Richard Brown's House; the Natural ground was not bad for them, but how they were Ordered I do not know, for they had the first year not above one in ten that did grow any thing considerably.

I saw the like (or worse) spoyl of the same Trees at my Lord Chief Baron Turnor's near Startford, where the ground might easily have been made very good for them. I onely write this, to perswade Noble Men, and others that are Lovers of Planting, to remember the old saying, viz. A thing once well done, is twice done: And those that are resolved to Plant, that they make their Ground fit for those Trees before they set them, and not bury them in a hole like a dead dog, as too too many do. Let me then beg that they may have good and fresh Lodgings sutable to their Quality, and good attendance also, to preserve them from their Enemies, till they be able to encounter with them; they that will not do this▪ let them never resolve to Plant Trees; for why should they spoil the least of those stately Monuments, and in so doing throw away their Monies? For let such note that Nature bestows not her gifts but where she finds sutable Convenience, there­fore order your Ground well, and then you may see a good success, as my Lord hath had in several of his Plantations, though as bad ground as most is to Plant on. One Night (me thoughts) walking up one of [Page 23] my Lords Line-walks, I heard the grateful Trees thus Paying the Tri­bute of their thanks to his Lordship:

Thus having shewed you by Example the good Effects of a light Brick-Earth upon Gravel, I could also tell the same of a Fat Sand, drift-sand, small Gravel upon your Clay or stiff Ground; but I hope that I have informed your Judgment so much, that you will Reasonably con­clude with me, that the preparing of Ground for Trees is, onely to mix Ground so together, that there may be convenient room for the Roots to search for their Nourishment; and to humour the Tree so, that there may be a good part of the Natural Ground which each Tree delights to grow in. I know that if your Ground be a stiff Clay, then to trench and mix it with fat Sand, drift-sand, Lime, Rubbish, or Chalk and Lime, are great helps to such Ground, either for Trees, or Corn, or Grass; and more lasting than Dung, and for Forrest-Trees full as good as Dung: For it doth not onely give leave, and make way for the roots to run in the Earth, but takes away that over-moistness in the cold stiff Ground, which hinders Conception, by letting the water down into the Earth, and by keeping it from Cracking, and so Nourisheth the Spirit of the Earth, and also keeps it from spending it too hastily.

Horse-dung is the best to make your hot beds with, for such Plants as are commonly raised of them be Annual Plants, but it is too hasty for the Seeds of Trees, unless it be rotten, and well mixed with Natu­ral Mould: It is best for your stiff cold Lands, and if you lay it upon [Page 24] Plowed Ground (which 'tis best for) then Plow it in as soon as you can, for if it lies there to dry, there will a great part of the Oily substance, which makes the fume for nourishment of Plants, be exhaled out by the Sun: Let no sort of dung lie long on the top of your Ground unplowed­in, but plow or dig it in as soon as you can; for by lying so, it doth not onely lose a great part of its goodness by the Sun (especially if it lies thin) but where your Dung-hill lies every shower will wash the strength of the dung into the Ground, so that if you take the dung off from that place as clean as you can, yet you shall have that place bear Ranker Corn than where you thought the dung had lain much thicker, if it lies long in a place. The Observation of this taught me many good Uses; as first, to lay dung about the Roots of Trees is much better than stones, as my Lord Bacon Advises in his Natural History; for this keeps moist the Ground better than they, and Rain washes the strength to the Roots, as is aforesaid: and if you dig in this when the strength is gone, and your Trees strong, it then prepares way for the Roots, and there is a great benefit to your Trees. Or if it is not digged-in, but lies on the top, and there turns to Earth, it then feeds the Roots on the top, and leads them upward.

And seeing where Dung lies, the Ground is so much improved by the washing-in of the strength of the Dung, it may well inform you that Dung steeped in Water is very good, especially if you use Dung, in Quantity according to the Nature of your Plants, and strength of your Ground; the weaker your Ground, make your Water the strong­er. There is in some places in Farmers Yards, a Water that washeth from their Dung-hills, a Load of which is not inferiour to a Load of Dung, yet by them totally Neglected; but of Waters I shall speak more in the next Chapter.

Thus having hinted of these two Useful and Common Dungs, Cow and Horse, in the Example of these Line-trees; onely Observe this, and then I shall proceed: Horse-dung is best for Plants that are quick of Digestion and Growth, and for Trees or Plants that shoot much in a year; for it yields a great Fume, and such Plants can well dispose of it.

Cow-dung is a good Soyl for most Trees or Plants of hot Ground, and better for durable Plants than it is for Annuals: It is Excellent for many sorts of rare Flowers, if first it be thorow-rotten, and then dryed and beaten to dust, and some fresh fine Earth then mixed well with it.

Deers-dung is much of the Nature of Cows, or Bullocks; but 'tis more proper for tender and smaller Plants.

[Page 25] Sheeps-dung is also of the same Nature, but more agreeable to ten­der and small Seeds and Plants: By this our Yeomen and Farmers find good profit, by Folding their Sheep every Night on their own Lands; for there they find a far certain benefit on their Ground by the Dung and Urine which the Sheep make in one Night; though it is not long last­ing, yet 'tis a sure help for the first Crop, and a good Addition to the second.

This may teach you that a thin sprinkling of dung is more sure most years for your Corn-Land than greater Quantities; and also that to break your dung small is best; for the smaller the better, especially if you have laid it on your Ground not long before you sow, especially for your Summer-crops, from this I do Advise my Ingenuous Country­men of these few Rules which are spoken before:

To well Observe the Nature of your Land, and by so doing to en­rich it with such Soyl and Dung as is most Natural to the Ground, and to the Seeds you intend to sow on it; and to lay it on your Ground at the most convenient times.

First, as to the Ground, I have hinted at many useful Composts, and also that several of them are far more proper for some Grounds than they are for others, though there be many more sorts that may be and are made use of to very good Effect, yet I shall not trouble my self nor you with the naming any more, knowing that he that Under­stands to Number to 20 in Arithmetick, may soon count to a 100.

Now, as to the Seed you intend to sow, whether it be of Trees, Plants, or any sort of Grain, the smaller your Seed is, make the ground the finer; the quicker your Seeds be of growth, and the more they run into stalks or leaves, your dung may then be the newer and stronger, and the more in Quantity, according to the Digestion of your Plants. But if for Trees or Plants of long lasting, then let the dung be the more rotten; and the more they be apt to shoot great shoots, the more you may allow them; but let them be sure of some such Ground as they Naturally delight to grow in, and also to allow them room that is large enough; for High and Lofty Spirits do not love to be Confined to little and small Cottages.

And as for laying it on your Ground, if the time be the Spring, that is most proper to sow your Seed, then lay such dung as is hot and dry early on your Ground; and rather erre in too little than too much, such dungs as be your Pigeons, Hens, Sea-coal-ashes, &c. But if they be hot and moist, such as Horse-dung, Horse-litter, or Green grass, Hay, &c. these be most proper for Annuals, and it is not good to be too sparing toward these tender Plants; rather erre in keeping your [Page 26] dung too dry than too wet, for in so doing you shall keep its heat the longer, and have the more Command to keep it so: But if you have occasion to lay dung on Ground to help such Trees or Plants as are not Annual, but more slow in their progress, then mix such dung thin, and not too near the Roots; but if it be the Autumn Season that you have occasion to lay it on your Land, then lay it something thicker; for the Winter will qualifie the strength and heat of it.

To conclude, if you are to lay dung on Land that you are to sow with Seed that doth not run much into stalks, and is but slow in growing, then do as our Farmers do, let it be rotten and mixed well with Mould before you lay it on your Land, and then your Grain or Seed will the better agree with it, or else you may find on your Land strong great Weeds, such as the Ground is most inclined to; for strong Land will produce the stronger Weeds, and the other contrary.

Therefore if your Dung be too rank and new for the Seed you intend to Sow your Ground with, then mix it with some other Compost as is most proper for your Land, and most convenient to be had: and if your Land be stiff, then mix it with Chalk, Light Sandy Ground, or some­what of the like Nature; laying a good quantity of Earth first, then your Dung, and then Earth to cover your Dung all over; by so doing you will save that Oyly water which will soak from the Dung by show­ers of Rain into the Earth under the dung: and by covering your dung with Earth it will keep the Sun from drying out that moisture; and what­ever Fumes arise, the Earth on the top will receive: be sure you let it not grow with Weeds on the top, but when you find them to appear, take them off, and suffer none to grow on your Compost; or turn it over, and mix it with your Earth below, however let it be mixed toge­ther before you lay it on your Land: Thus do with New Horse-dung and Litter, but if it be any other dung, lay it on your Land as soon as Opportunity serveth; for the longer you let it lie, the more it loseth of its strength, therefore lay it on rather too thin, and in dry weather, and early.

Thus much may serve for Trees, but if it be for Flowers, or other fine and tender Plants, you then must be more Curious, and mix your Earth better; but they be out of my Road at this time. The main bu­siness is to prepare your Ground so, that there may be room for the roots to run in, to fetch their Nourishment. As for Trees and Plants [Page 27] that root deep, trench your Ground accordingly, &c. Now, for to please the Tree or Plant with such Earth as it delights to be in, add such a quantity of dung as may be sutable to the growth of your Tree or Plant, thereby to make a fume to feed it; for let this fume be made of what it will, for-my part, I shall not contend whether it be Salt, Sul­phur, or Mercury; or as some affirm, that 'tis Salt, Sulphur, Mer­cury, and Spirit: All, or any one of these that feeds the Plants of this Terrestrial Globe; or if it be Fire, Earth, Water, or Air, as was for­merly the Opinion of the Learned; for Sulphur or Brimstone may an­swer to Fire, Salt to the Earth, Mercury to Water, Spirit to Air.

For 'tis certain, that Plants have Salt, Sulphur, Mercury, and Spirit in them; some more than others, according to their Heat or Coldness, but that they feed on these is not certain to me: But it is as I conceive the Fume, Steam, or more properly the Spirit of the Earth that they feed on; for the Earth is full of Spirit, which is the cause of the vast many productions of Plants, and Insects which are produced every year, and from no seed or sperm, but according to the fit Matrix of the Earth; and the Star-fire, and Virgin Mercury: their Dame Na­ture is then busie to make some Plant or Insect according as she hath provided a Breast to suckle and feed them.

The Earth is then but onely a Lodging-place, and simple Water is one­ly its Garment; for simple crude Water feeds nothing, but is rather De­structive, as is seen by Water that runs forth on a Gravel, and the stream quick, there is feldome good Meadows by such Rivers, unless there be some Town that washeth it self into the River, or good Rich Land, or Lanes, or the like. Your Spring-water, unless it have some assistance, is the like; but of Water, see more in the next Chap­ter.

And now I shall give you an Example of Earth, by which you may well perceive that Plants do not feed on simple Earth, nor crude Wa­ter. My Lord was the Author that told me this, and as soon as the Season of the year did permit me, I then did try the Experiment, which was thus performed. I took out of a Hill of good Rich fresh Earth (which I had prepared for other things) some of the dryest, somewhat above a good large Flower-pot full; this I carried into a little Room, which I had at Hadham-Hall, it joyned upon the Bake-house; there I spread this Earth thin upon the shelves, now and then turning it till it was as dry as dust, and as I thought, as dry as it well could be, provided it were not burned: having thus prepared my Earth, I filled a Flower­pot with it, which pot and Earth thus filled, weighed as exactly as I could weigh it just eighteen pounds and a half.

[Page 28] March approaching, in the year 1666, I put this pot into a hot bed, to secure the seeds, and withall to help forward my design to preserve them: the seeds were Purslain which I sowed in it, the quantity was very small: I kept this pot in hot Beds till the beginning of May, and then I set it under a South Wall, where it stood till that Moneth was out, and then I set it in the shade from the Meridian Sun: there it stood till the latter end of August, and then finding my Plants full of seed and at a stand, I then cut up the Purslain close to the ground, at Noon-time, when it was very dry, and weighed the Purslain as exactly as I could, and it weighed just six pound two ounces. Then I took the pot of Earth and set it in a South Window in a Banqueting House to dry, turning the Earth to the Sun, to dry out some of the moisture, for the Earth was wet, for I had kept this pot with watering all the Summer, as occasion served: then I took this pot of Earth, and carried it into the little Room to dry the Earth as I did before, and putting some of the Earth into a Box, and the rest in the pot, I made it as dry as it well could be, or at least as dry as it was when I sowed my seeds in it: and then putting all my Earth into the pot again, I weighed it as exactly as I had done before, and then the pot and the Earth weighted just eighteen pound and seven ounces; there was, I confess, the roots of the Purslain, but when they were dryed, I do believe they did not weigh one ounce; and this one ounce that it lost of weight might be Earth dashed over with Rains.

Now, these Plants weighing so much, and the Earth wasted or de­creased in its weight so little, doth plainly shew that Plants do not feed onely on Earth; for I do believe this, that the earth that was wasted, was dashed out of the pot by hasty watering, and by sudden showers of Rain, or perchance some might go out of the holes of the pot with the Water.

Now, though Plants do not feed on earth, yet Earth is the Nurse and receptacle of most things, and the Earth is spongy and porous, fit to receive the several Influences of the Heavens, of Heat, Rains, and Dews; and stores them up for the Conservation of her products: and when the seed or plant desire it, is put into Motion by the Coelestial heat the earth freely gives out of her store, according as the Plant can dispose of it.

And if there be no Plants to feed on this Spirit of the Earth, then ma­ny times Nature makes some which do; for the earth will produce se­veral Plants of its self, without seed or root, but they be Plants of no long lasting, and when they die, they then turn to Air and Spirit, as all things do; for there is nothing that is at a certain stay, for all things [Page 29] have their time of increasing, and their time of decaying, till they be turned to that of which they were made.

No man can see Trees grow, yet all men know that they doe: It is plain to see when a Trees is decaying, yet to know how long it will be before it is of its own decaying turned to Earth or Dust, is hard to know: Though it is Reported, that an Oak is a hundred years a growing, a hundred years stands at a stay, and a hundred years decaying, yet this is very erroneous; for on shallow Grounds an Oak will not grow so long, and on deep ground much longer, and neither it nor any thing else stands at a stay, but when it doth begin to decay, it keeps on, ac­cording as it meets with Accidents, till it comes to dust.

I Have oft observed your Cisterns and other places, that are onely filled with Rain-water, that that water will in a Summers time pro­duce several sorts of Insects, and some sort of Water-plants; and also that it will leave a green slime not much unlike to Plants, which sub­stance (or slime as I tearm it) would certainly be spent into Plants, were there but some quantity of Aquatick Plants put into this water; such as Mints of any sort, yellow Water-flagge, Flower-de-luce, Crabs­claws, or water Sen-green, Brook-lime, Ducks-meat, &c.

I once made an Experiment to trye this, which I have here inserted, and thus it was: I took two water-pots, and filled them full of water, out of a Fountain which had been filled by Snow and Rain the Win­ter before, and which was made clean the Michaelmas before: I set these two pots, thus filled, in the open Air, but in the shade, and put into one of them a good handfull of Mints, the Runners, which I put [Page 30] in the first of March, 1664. where I let them continue till the first of April next, and then put in a fresh handfull, and let that continue for one Moneth more, and so I did both May and June: I poured out this Water about the beginning of September, to observe which of those Pots had the most of this slime: whereupon I found, that pot that had no Mints put into it, had twice as much, and being forced too to fill up that pot that had the Mints with the same water often, and that pot that had no Herbs in it, the slime of it was green; the other pots set­tlement that was in it, was black, and of an Earthy colour: I did intend to have prosecuted this further, as to have filled two pots of fresh Earth, and not too rich, and to have sown in them several Seeds, and to have kept them from all water but this, and then to have noted well the success, with more like Fancies which I thought on; but I was pro­hibited by one of the Drones of this Age, and did not know whether I should stay or not.

A Stone lying in water gets a kind of slime about it; and if you put into water seeds that be quick of growth, (as most of your Annuals are) keep it but temperately hot, and they will in a little time spear out, and then if you put them into fine Mould, temperately moyst and warm, you may (if you pull up one of them and observe) see the Roots feeding upon a white substance, which I have often observed; for in water is the seed of all things. Likewise put seed into Earth, and if it be very dry, then though it be kept never so temperately hot, it will rather keep the seeds from growing than hasten them.

But water dissolves, then Life followeth the dissolution; for water opens the parts of the Seed, and makes them swell, then they draw the Spirit of the water to them, (for the World is full of Spirit) so the Seeds they have been so long in water till the body of them cracks, which is as soon as it hath filled it self with enough to make a Root, then that seed if once dryed, and a stop put to its proceedings, the Art of Man cannot make it grow again. I have heard some affirm, that Malt will grow, but 'tis false, unless they mean some Barley-corns which never speared.

Therefore if you have once watered Seed, keep them with water­ing if the Earth require; and if your Earth be poor, and your seeds great growers, then water with rich dunged water, and often, but let it not touch the Leaves; and if you think your ground be too Rich for the Nature of your seed, then water your seed with water not very Rich; but if your seeds be slow growers, for such keep your ground only moyst, and no more; for, though it be Earth that stores up the Spirit that seeds Plants, yet it is water that sets it on motion, and water [Page 31] is full of Spirit also, but without Heat both these lie still: for Heat draws out first the crude water, and sends it into the Aire: Therefore, unless it be for Aquatick Plants, or Plants that grow much, and the weather be warm and drying, do not water too much, keep your Earth just moyst; for when ground is full of water, the Coelestial Fire heats first the superficies of the Earth, and puts that into a fume, but the Roots which are deeper in the ground being covered with water, there is no fume riseth there till most of the water be drawn up by the Sun, or settled into the Earth: Therefore if your Ground be subject to be wet, keep it loose and open, by deep trenching, and Earth to drein away water; for it is oft seen, that good Land that lies low in a wet Spring hath no great burden, because it is over pressed with wet; and dunged Land in a wet year bears the worst Corn, especially if it be low stiffe Land; for Dung then holdeth the Moysture, and the ground being wet withall, commonly doth produce great weeds, which can digest the spirit of the Earth and Water better than Corn, be­cause they grow much quicker, and so they spoyl the Corn: For the greatest good that Dung doth to Land, is, to hold the water in the ground, and to keep the ground hollow, for the Roots to fetch their Nourishment. For 'tis the nature of Dung to draw water to it, to fill it self like a Sponge; and when dry weather comes, then it spends it self in fume, and so it wastes it self, and feeds Plants by its decay. Thus you may see and admire the Order of the great God of Na­ture, that the Destruction of one should be the Preservation of ano­ther.

This you may observe in rotten Wood, Malt-dust, Wool, woollen Rags, Horn-shavings, &c. how full they will be with every little Dew, and keep that longer than a Clod of Earth twice as big, thus will they doe till they be turn'd to a very little Earth: By this you may inform your self what sort of Dung will last longest.

Some sorts of Dung there be, that if they be not over-pressed with Water, will waste themselves by their own heat; Witness your Hot-beds, &c. yet notwithstanding, this heat is very Natural to Annual Plants.

Dung steeped in Water, or water strained thorow Dung, doth take a great part of the substance and strength of the Dung with it, and that water when dryed up in the ground, and evaporated, when Rain or Dew falls on that place, it there leaveth such an Oily or slimy sub­stance as catcheth the Water or Dew, and hindereth it from running deep into the Earth, and then the Over-plus which the Plants receive not, is rarified into Air, till it hath spent it self as it were to nothing.

[Page 32] After dry weather in Summer, if there comes a good shower, and a warm day after, you may see this Fume hang in the Aire, sometimes low, close to the ground, as if it were loth to part with the Earth, and toward the latter end of Summer, if great Rain and warm VVeather happen, then this Fume being great, and the Nights something cold, it will spend it self in Mushromes, Puffes, &c. as old Trees and rotten VVood will doe, where there is a great decay, and nothing to feed on.

Therefore, if you fear dry VVeather, do not deferre too long be­fore you water your Trees and Seeds, but water while your ground is yet moyst: for believe me, I would not have you stay too long be­fore you water, if you be minded to water at all: And also when you do water, do it well; Consider the depth of your Roots, and those that root deepest, water most; and also when you begin to water, con­tinue it as long as you find occasion: water Trees well, and Seeds and small Plants often: use not VVell-water, especially for tender Plants, for it is so strained thorow the Earth that it hath little spirit to mak Nou­rishment in it for Plants. Rivers that run quick and long on sharp gravel are little better; therefore if you must use such, let them stand some time in the Sun, in Tubs, &c. mixed with Dung.

Let the Quantity and Quality of your Dung be according to the Na­ture of your Plants; as, if your Plants be great growers, and require heat, then put Horse-dung▪ &c. in the water.

If your Plants be fine and tender, then put Sheeps Dung, or Cows-dung, &c. into the water, remembring, that if you think your ground be bad, you must adde the more Dung.

If your VVater be bad (as is aforesaid) and that you put Dung into it to help it, let it then stand in the Sun and open Aire uncovered.

Take care you water no Plants with standing stinking Ditch water, nor no water that stinketh: for sweet water not too clear, and fresh Mould, not musty or tainted by stinking weeds, &c. is as proper for tender Plants, as sweet and good Food, and warm and clean Lodging is to a tender fine-bred man.

Rain-water I take to be very good, if not too long kept; yet if your Vessel be large, the oftner you stirre it, the longer it will keep sweet.

Large and Navigable Rivers, (such as our Thames) that receive much Soyl by the washing of Streets, and the many Sinks that run in­to it, and which by its own motion doth cleanse it self from that which is noxious both to Man and Plants; is a most excellent Water for all sorts of Plants.

[Page 33] The larger that Ponds be, the better their water is for Plants; and if they have the shoot of some Stable-yard into them, it addes much to their goodness; the opener they be to the Sun, the better; and the more of motion they have, as by Horses washing in them, or Geese or Ducks swimming in them, 'tis so much the better: for the swim­ming of Ducks in Summer in your small Ponds will keep the Water from smelling.

Now having shewed you several wayes of raising Forrest-trees, with some other hints of their Seed, &c. and of Compost for them, and of VVater, and VVatering them, I now shall shew you the man­ner how to raise them of Seed, which is to be preferred before all others, though some of the aforesaid wayes for some Trees are much easier and quicker.

Good Aire for Plants (as well as Men) is much assisting to their Health and Life, for without this nothing can live; and that which is most healthfull for tender Men, is also the best for tender Plants. Aire takes up the earthy Exhalations of all sorts, and there mingles them together, and being touched with Coelestial Fire, it reduceth them into general Principles, for great uses. I shall say no more of Aire, for it is an Hermaphrodite, and is inclosed in Water, therefore near a-kin to it.

I Shall not trouble you with the several kinds there be; though the Learned J. Evelyn, Esq; Reduceth them to four, in his Dis­course of Forest-Trees, but if they were distinguished by several Names, as we do our Pears, you might find as many varieties, onely according to the shape and taste of the Acorn: for as we know by Ex­perience that several of our Pear-Trees grow Pyramid-like, as the Oak­man-berry, and Bordon-Musk-Pears, &c. And some likewise grow much spreading, as the Winter-Bonchristian, the back Pear of Wor­cester, &c. Even so do some of your Oaks; therefore if you desire aspiring Trees, take care to gather your Acorns off from such Trees, or rather gather them from under some such Trees, when fallen, and in a dry time if you can.

When you have so done, lay your Acorns thin in some open Room to dry, and when they be dry, keep them in some dry place till the latter end of January, and having prepared some good fresh Loomy Ground, by digging and keeping it clean before-hand, sow them, and let them be covered about an Inch and a half, or two Inches deep; by sowing them at this time, you shall save a great many, which other­wise would have been spoyled by Mice or other Vermin; but if it hap­pen to be a wet time when they fall, then will they begin to spear out in a short time after: And then so soon as you see them shoot forth a little bud at the small ends, commit them to their Spouse as soon as may be; for when they be come to the time that the Almighty hath alotted them, and be sed and made lusty by the dews and showers of the Heavens, then the Star-fire impregnats the Moysture in the seed, and then the seed throws off, or endeavours to do it, and then takes his Lodging in the Earth, where he prepares a room for his Off-spring; that is, as soon as the seed hath imbibed himself in the Water, and received heat, (for without both these no seeds can produce its kinds) the Body of the Acorn cracks, and the spear shoots into the Earth, and as soon as it hath got Entertainment there, and the Season of the year agreeable, the Bo­dy of the seed either turns into leaves, or spends it self into leaves, and that little small part of the seed, the spear, that shoots forth Root, and [Page 35] then shot and leaves; so that if the Acorn hath had a convenient quan­tity of heat and moisture (but if too much of either of these, that is deadly to all seeds) then the seed spears forth, and if it be not com­mitted to the Ground before it be dryed, and the spear withered, then for certain that Seed, Acorn, Nut, or Stone will never grow. For Nature, if once set on Motion, will rather cease to be, than alter its course; for Nature hates violence, neither can the seed receive this pre­cious sperm without these two, Father and Mother; and these two must have a sutable Agreement between them: for though one Vessel be suf­ficient to perfect the Infant in the Womb, yet Nature hath not been wanting to provide several Breasts to Nourish it. Therefore if your Acorns have taken wet, and the heat hath made them spear, you must sow them as soon as you can, and venture them a whole Winter in the Ground; remembring to keep some Traps set to catch the Mice.

In the Spring following they will come up, keep them clean from Weeds, and let them stand two or three years on their first bed, then ha­ving prepared a piece of good fresh Ground, by adding some rotten dung to it, if poor; or good fresh Rich Ground (which is better than dung) cut the tap-root, and the side-boughs, and set them as you do other Trees in your Nurseries, keep your Ground with digging, and the Trees with pruning up every year; thus Order them till you find them fit to Remove, and you will then find no such hazard in the Remo­ving them, as if they were never Transplanted before; for there is a great deal of Reason to be given that the oftner you Remove a Tree, the likelier 'tis to grow when it is Removed again, provided it be not too great. Besides, Experience doth plainly shew the same, for I have often found that a Walnut-Tree set of a Nut, and never-removed in its Minority, but still keeping his place of Situation, till it is six or seven Foot high, that in Removing such a Tree, you shall find near as much hazard in the growing of that Tree, as in Removing an Oak of the same stature, provided the Oak hath had his Abode in open Air, and not been tenderly Nursed up in a Wood; for such Trees, let them be of what kind you will, are nice to be removed out of their warm Habitation: But at this I have hinted before. Now, to shew you some Reason why any Tree being Removed before, is the likelier to grow when removed again, Observe these few Rules:

First, 'Tis the Nature of all Trees to put forth one Root first, and then some side-roots, according to the Kind and Nature of the Ground; and this most stately Tree doth commonly run to the bottom of the Soyl that is fit for his Nourishment, before it puts forth many side-roots, espe­cially in a loose, hollow Ground, and then at the end of the tap-root [Page 36] it puts forth feeding Roots, and when this Tree comes to be pretty big, it having few feeding Roots near home, the Tree can hardly be taken up well, without losing most of them, which will be a great hazard to the loss of your Tree.

Secondly, But when a Tree is taken up young, as at one, two, or three years old, then there is but small head, so that a little Root will maintain that, and then this little Root lying not deep, and in a little compass of Ground, may be taken up with less loss, to the proportion of the Head, than a greater.

Thirdly, When you have taken up these young Trees, in cutting off the end of the tap-root, and the ends of the greatest of the others, those very ends so cut off with the slope lowermost, will at that place put forth many small Roots, which lying near to the Body of the Tree, are the easier to be taken up with the Tree when 'tis Removed again.

Lastly, Custom in Removing of Trees tends somewhat to their grow­ing, being Removed; for I sansie, that if you could get some Acorns of an Oak, that had (with his Fore-Fathers) been accustomed to Re­moving, as our Apple-stocks are, I do Judge it would be then as pa­tient of changing his Habitation as they. From that which hath been said I hope you will conclude with me, that 'tis best to Remove, either Forest-Trees, or others, when young; for if you Remove them when they be older, the better the Ground is, the more the Tree runs down with a tap-root; therefore if never Removed before, the worse to re­move off from such a Ground.

Thus having Ordered these Young Trees till you have Nursed them up to the stature of six or seven Foot high, you may afterwards Trans­plant them into your Walks, Wood, or where else your Fancy pleaseth, onely in Transplanting Observe this:

Make your holes four Foot wide, and two Spade deep at least; half a year, or a quarter at least before the time of Planting (if it be a year 'tis the better, provided you keep that Mould which you threw out of the holes clean from Weeds and Grass, by turning it over as Occa­sion requires) and if you think your Ground be poor, or of some con­trary Soyl to what your Tree Naturally delights to grow in, mix it with some such like Earth as your Tree doth best delight to grow in; as for an Oak, if your Ground be Gravelly, mix it then with the upper Spade of Ground that is a Brick-Earth, turning these together with the Earth you did throw out of the holes; if Clay, mix it then with a light Loom, or a fat Sand, or small Gravel; and if the Ground be poor, a little laying of rotten dung in the bottom of your holes, but let none be [Page 37] among your Earth when you set your Trees, that is, to touch the roots of them.

Having thus prepared your holes for your Tree, and your Earth, if your Ground be a dry Soyl, then begin as soon as you find the Leaf to fall, that is in October: 'Tis not the Hill or Valley, North or South Situation which makes the finer or tougher Grain; but if there be a seeding Ground on the top of an Hill, or on the North side, more than there is in the Valley or South-side, there then will be the toughest Tim­ber; for where a Tree grows most in a year, that Oak is the toughest Timber, and there that Tree shall have the most sap, as on a deep Loomy Ground: But let it be Hill or Valley, if it be a shallow ground, and the bottom Gravel, and not mixed with Loom or Clay, there Oaks will grow slow, and the Annual Circles being close together, the Tim­ber must then be the finer Grained: and the sap of such Oaks is little, as I have many times Observed: Experience and Reason (which I have alwayes hitherto taken with me as Guides in my Travel and Search after Nature) have confirmed me in this: A light Brick-Earth, or a Loomy-Clay produce the stateliest Oaks, soonest, and toughest Tim­ber, for there they grow quickest,

Your Clays produce great Oaks, for that is a holding Ground; al­though they grow sometimes slow, yet they last long.

Your Gravel produceth many Oaks, and streight, they grow slow, the Timber is fine, and they decay while they be young; the Reasons of this I have told you before.

Having made Ready your Holes, and taken up your Trees well, I Advise you to open the Earth well round your Tree, keeping the side of your Spade to the Body of your Tree, to prevent Cutting the Roots when you take them up; and also to digg deep round the Tree, that when you come to pull up your Tree, it may come up easily, which will prevent those Roots which grow Elbow-like, which if they do not break off in pulling up, by straining them to pull up, they will crack so in the Elbow, that they will never grow, nor put forth Roots below that place; therefore for such Trees as be ticklish to Remove, take the more time, lest you verifie the Old Proverb, which saith,

Such Roots as you find Bruised, or much Cracked, cut them off, till you come at firm sound Root. Such Trees as are slow-growers, as the Oak is, you may prune up to the smaller Head; as, if your [Page 38] Tree be taper and streight, you may prune up such a Tree to one shoot; but if your Tree be not taper, then leave two side-boughs, or more, to receive some of the Sap, which will make the shoot that you intend shall lead to make the body of the Tree, the smaller, and so your Tree will be taper; but top your shoots, all but your leading-shoot, which will make the Body of your Tree swell the more, and hinder them from equalling the leading-shoot, and by topping the other it will grow the stronger: I need not tell you which shoot you should leave to be the leading-shoot for your Tree, not Questioning but Sence and Reason will teach you to leave that which grows streightest and strongest; if you do leave any shoots, as most often it is necessary, leave them not right against one another, for that will make the Tree grow too suddenly thick in that place, but leave them one above another, so will your Tree grow the more taper, for it will be less and less upward, between the shoots, which shoots you must take off Year after Year, as your Tree runs up in height, minding still, now and then to leave some side-boughs to keep the Tree taper, or else you will want your height of Timber; or your Tree may grow top heavy, and so Crooked: I speak of Tim­ber-trees, or the ways to Order Trees for Timber, (for I wish all Oaks were fit for Timber) but if your leading-shoot be much Crooked, then top it underneath a bud that tends upward, so low as if that bud lead away, it may grow near streight up; or cut off the leading-shoot un­der another that grows more upright, Ordering it to be the leading-shoot so, as your Tree grows, mind to lead it up every Year, accor­ding as you see Cause, taking care to keep off the Suckers, especially the first Year, unless you find the Head grow too great for the Body, then leave some side-boughs to receive some Sap, and to make your Tree taper, but this you shall hardly find in Oaks in their first Years growth, namely, to grow too much in Head.

Thus endeavouring to keep your Tree, (of what sort soever it be, if it be for Timber) with no great Head, still keep the leading-shoot uppermost, by sometimes heading the other side-boughs, about a Foot or more from the Body, or else they will be ready sometimes to make your Tree top-heavy, therefore keep your Tree till you have got it to the height you intend, by keeping it as is above-said; and if you find it is not taper by these means, then in the Moneth February slit the Bark quite thorow on three or four sides, according to the bigness of your Tree; but if small, but one or two: so if the Tree be three yards high to the Head, then let three slits go up one yard, two slits two yards high, and one to the top: But if it be a streight Tree, and taper, as you [Page 39] would have it, if the Bark be bound, slit it on one or two sides, from the Ground to the top.

If your tree be young, though thriving, it will do it no harm, but much good, for you may see in many thriving trees the Bark part of it self, telling you that it wants your help, therefore observe Nature, and assist her in all your undertakings; for Wisdom standeth, not onely in the Streets, but in the Woods, calling to you to learn of her.

Note also, if you find any tree Crooked, slit it in the ham at the afore-said time, and take off some of the lower side of his Head, and you will help the crook of the tree, whether it be great or small; and in time, by so doing, it will grow streight: for by slitting the Bark in the ham it makes the tree swell there, and so sets the tree streight; there­fore make two or three slits in the ham, according to the bigness of the tree and crook; but if the tree be pretty great, then take your Bill and cut the Bark thorow in the ham in several places, about two or three Inches asunder, let the Cut be cut slanting upward, a little cross the Diameter of the tree; by so doing you will stop the Sap in that place, the Bark will dilate, and the place grow greater, and so the tree will grow streighter.

Sometimes if your tree be not taper, in Summer when it shoots much, the weight of the Head will draw the Body crooked, and the Head will incline to the Ground; in such trees Leave shoots on the Body, to check and receive the Sap, and to keep it from abounding too much in the Head; but when you find your tree grown crooked by the Head, in Summer, with Leaves and Boughs weighing it down, as soon as you find it begin to leane, take off some of the Boughs on the leaning side, and top some according as you see cause: By this Summer-pruning you may keep your tree streight, therefore Observe it. I have found good success on Walnut-trees and Lines by it, &c.

But though Oaks grow Crooked, it is not often by their great shoots, for on most Grounds it grows slowly, but sometimes their Head, or leading shoot being cropped off by Cattel, it then breaks out on the sides into several leading shoots, and one leads one way, and another another; and so distributeth the Sap, which makes the tree not onely grow crook­ed, but slowly; and sometimes the early shooting of the leading-shoot in the Spring causeth the same: For Frost coming upon the tender leaves and leading-bud, kills them, and then it is forc'd to break out a new on the sides; this happens often-times to young seedling Oaks in long Grass, which would gladly be more in the open Air, but by making too much haste many times they lose their Heads for it. Now in such Cases you must take off some, and cut some half a Foot off from the leading-shoot, [Page 40] preserving that which is most likelie for the leading shoot, which though it be crooked, despair not, for Naturally it will grow streighter, and if you use pruning, and the afore-said Rules, it will be streight much the sooner. But in case you find your Young Oak very much stubbed near the Ground, and never a shoot that is fit to lead to make a Tree, in such a young Tree you must cut it off close at the Ground, in the Spring-time, so shall you have one fine shoot or more, but be sure take off all but one, and then you shall find that shoot thrive very much, till it hath got such a Head in bigness as the Head was before, and the Bark being then fine, it will enlarge it self for the growth of the shoot, and give good way for the Sap to run into the Head, and so make a fine Tree; therefore if your Tree be stunned, or much Crooked, then take this course, to head them close at the ground, and the Summer following neglect not to take off all the shoots but one, for at Midsomer it is as good, nay, better to prune some Trees than in the Spring, for then the Sap will soon cover round that wounded place, and if not heal it quite, it will preserve it from much harm, till the Spring following, and at that time shoots will not break out much into the head, to make it top-heavy: You may safely cut off small branches, and prune small Trees at this Summer-season. And for such Trees as have a great Pith, as the Ash and Walnut, I take it to be the best time for them. And whereas some say to the contrary, yet if the Reader will be Advised by me, let him prune such in Summer. But in the midst of Winter forbear to prune most Trees, especially great Boughs, or such Trees as have a great Pith, or tender, for then the wound lyeth ex­posed to the open Air and Wet, and Frost coming upon the Wet, and piercing so far into the wounded place as the wet hath gone, kills the Wood, and makes a hole in that place, and that hole holding Water many times, Kills many a good Tree, especially where great Boughs are taken off, for they be long a covering over; and never will be co­vered if the Tree be Old.

Therefore if your Tree be Old, forbear to cut off great Boughs; but if for some Reasons you are forced to do it, then cut off such Boughs two Foot, or a Yard from the Body of your Timber-tree; and let the place where you cut off such a Limb be perpendicular to the Horizon, rather inclining to the Nadir, than the Zenith; by so doing, the wa­ter will not lie on such a place, and then the Tree will receive no harm.

But if your Tree be young and thriving, then cut off the Boughs as close as you can, keeping the wounded place perpendicular to the Ho­rizon, and be sure not to leave Elbows to receive the wet, as too many of our Husband-men do; for, the closer you cut off a Bough to the [Page 41] Body, the sooner the bark covereth that place, therefore cut off the side-boughs of young Timber-trees close and smooth.

I wish I could perswade all Lovers of handsome Timber-trees, at eve­ry Fall of their Woods to prune up all the Timber-trees; but then the Wood must not stand too long before it be fell'd. You may prune off boughs of ten years growth very well, and so every ten years; or oft­ner if it be in Hedg-rowes, prune up your Trees till you have got them to such a height as you find most convenient, viz. to fifty or sixty foot high: For I have many times observed Trees, of Oak, Ash, Elm and Beech, to have leading shoots sixty foot high and more, when they have had not above ten foot of good Timber; for Boughs have broke out at that height, and have so distributed the sap, that they were little worth, but for the Fire; when, if they had been pruned up as is before directed, you might have had the same height of good Timber; which, how much more profitable it would be, and also beautifull, I leave to any mans Judgement.

The Ash and Beech cover the wounded place over soon, and seldom break out many side-boughs: The Elm very frequently breaks out side-boughs, yet will arrive to a great height of good Timber: the Oak is a little subject to break out side-boughs, and though a slow grower, yet by its own hardness of his Wood he preserves himself well till it hath over-grown the wounded place, which it will in a few years doe, if your Tree be young and thriving, and the boughs, not very great; for if the boughs be great, that place when they be cut off is such a Damm to the sap, that it forceth it to break out with many small boughs there; especially in such Trees as have a thick and rugged bark, as the Elm and Oak have when old.

But if the Tree be young and thriving, then is the Bark thin and loose, and will more readily give way to the sap to ascend into the Head, and not break out into side-boughs; but if some few do break out, often pruning them close off will prevent that: But if you would be at a little more trouble, note this which I have found to be true, and your Tim­ber shall pay you well for your pains.

At Midsommer, after you have pruned up your Trees, take off all the small shoots that are broke out on the side of your Trees, close to the body of the Tree; do thus two or three years together, and you will find every year the side-boughs to be fewer and fewer, till you have a clear body, beautifull to behold, and profitable for as good Tim­ber, thirty or forty foot or more, which otherwise would not have been a quarter so high. Thus may you make an Elm (which is a Tree most [Page 42] subject to break out side-boughs) as clear from boughs forty or fifty foot high, as they be.

Your Oak that is young you may easily master, and bring it to a clear body; though it is some what troublesome in Woods, yet in Hedg-Rowes it may be practised with ease, or in Walks, or on single Oaks: But our Yeomen and Farmers are too much subject to spoyl such Trees as would make our best Oaks, by heading them, and making them Pollards. I wish there were as strict a Law as could be made, to pu­nish those that do presume to head an Oak, the King of Woods, though it be on their own Land.

By this means we should have the Farmer that is scanted in Wood, by often pruning off the side-boughs make many finer Trees than now there are; for in such places there is great food to make him a great Tree; and then in Coppices, if you let a Tree stand to be very great, it spoyls many a young one, and also your under-wood.

But methinks I hear some opposing me, saying, that by so pruning up of Trees, they do not prove so well for the Joyner, Carpenter, Wheeler, &c. for they say, if the Tree doth over-grow the Knot, when they come to cleave such a Tree, that place proves faulty within, and the Timber is not so good.

Secondly, They say, that cutting off the side-boughs, makes Trees more knotty.

Thirdly, they say, that it makes a Tree decay sooner.

To these three Objections I shall answer, and then hasten to conclude, and so leave my beloved Oak.

I do grant, that if the Knots be great, though the Trees be young and thriving, and have covered the place over well, if you come to saw out such Trees for Plank, Board, or VVainscot, that there may be some Defect there where great boughs were cut off; but suppose there be, you have still the same length clear Timber at the lower end as you would have had if these boughs had not been cut off; and then by pru­ning up your Trees, they grow straighter, and your Tree carries a greater length of Timber, usefull for Beams, Summers, Raising, VVall­plats, Rafters, Joyce, &c. and how much Timber these spend more than the other, viz. Board and VVainscot, &c. I leave you to deter­mine. But my Advice is, not to let your boughs be great, but take them off from such Trees whilest young, and then the boughs will be young and small, and such Trees will cover such places in a little time, and these small Knots will not be perceived then, in case the Tree be sawn for VVainscot, &c.

[Page 43] Again, as to the first Objection, this seems to me a full Answer; as first, for such Trees as stand abroad single, you shall find them to have a clear body, of six, seven, eight or ten foot high, I only ask my Op­ponent, whether such a length of Timber had Knots on it or no? I hope they will grant it had; well then, how comes it to be so clear without Knots? Now I tell you, 'tis Cattle that crop off the boughs whilest they be young, and that makes it clear from boughs, and the sap mounts up higher, and there breaks out, which if it were but taken off as it is below, it then would be as clear sixty foot as it is at six, and as straight.

This very Reason possess'd me so much, that it told me, an Elm (which is the most subject of any Tree to break out side-boughs) might be made clear Timber sixty foot high, as well as ordinarily they be six, by early, often, and Summer-pruning. This my Experience hath proved true.

Again, a Thorn or VVhite-bush growing in a Park, and kept under by Dear cropping of it, for eight, ten or more years, so that it hath got a hundred little boughs, if it once get but a leading shoot, and that out of the Dears reach, all shall unite in that one, and that shall come to be a straight body, and straight-grained, notwithstanding it was so crooked below; for the lower ones will all die by the Dear cropping them, and the saps free ascending into the leading shoot.

But as to the second Objection, I grant, that sometimes cutting off boughs, (especially great ones, and of Old trees) makes more, but then they be small; for the more a River is divided into small Rivu­lets, the easier those little ones are stopped and brought into one; for a great River must have a great Damme, and taking off a great bough is a great Damme to the sap; for the Tree falling suddenly narrow upwards, and the sap being used to spend it self there, and having free passage thither, when it is got into that place it breaks out on each side of the Knot, into many little boughs; but if you take off these little boughs that Midsommer, the Summer after there will be but a small quantity in comparison of the Spring-sap: And the bark being then loose, it makes the easier way for the Sap to ascend into the head, and not to break out into Boughs; and so having prepared the way by the Sap, that Midsommer-shoot will not be at a stand so much the Spring following.

Or if the Spring after you have taken off the Boughs, you take off the little ones that were shot out the year before, and slit the bark above each Knot, that is, somewhat great down to the Knot; by so doing you may bring your Tree to have a clear Body, by a few years [Page 44] pruning; for I have Observed it usual in many Trees the Year they have been pruned up, for the Bark to have cracked an Inch or more; which tells you most plainly, that the pruning of Trees doth make them swell in Body, therefore help the pent places by slitting the Bark: you may often see this on your Ash, &c.

Pray you, how comes it, that in your Coppices you shall have Tim­ber-trees ten or twelve Foot high, clear, without Bough, and then the Tree break out all into head? It is (I am confident) the under-wood which smothers, and beats off the side-boughs as high as that grows, and so makes the Timber clear so high; also if you mark where high Tim­ber-trees are, that have clear Bodies a great height, they do, or did stand thick together, and so one draws up another, smothering the side-boughs, and beating them off (sometimes) by their Motion in great Winds.

Thus by what has been said of Cattels Cropping, Trees standing in Coppices, and by Trees standing thick together, you may Learn that you may do the same, and have Timber, by pruning, as clear from Knots, as it is by those Accidents.

Thirdly, Whereas they say it makes a tree decay sooner; I grant this, that to prune off great Boughs from an Old tree, makes it decay sooner; for the Wounded place being great, and the Tree slow of growth, is a long time covering over that place (if it can be done at last) and that takes wet and Air, and decays the Tree; therefore I do not Advise you to take great Boughs off from any tree.

But small Boughs cut off smooth, and close, from an Old tree or Young, causeth the tree to last longer, and to be clearer Timber: For when small Boughs are taken off from the side of your Tree, though Old, the Tree then not drawing much Sap, that little Sap doth most of it then ascend into the Head, and so makes the Head continue fresh and thriving the longer; and taking off the side-boughs makes the Tree to swell, and grow sooner into a great Body.

For the Boughs that break out of the side have not such deep Root in the Body of the Tree, (I mean those that come forth after the Tree hath been once pruned) for every bough that breaks out, breaks out through the Bark, and hath its Root between the Bark and Tree that Year, and as the Tree increaseth, so that knot is deeper and deeper in the Body of the Tree: thus taking off the small Boughs often, keepeth the Tree clearer from great knots within the Timber, and the little knots do cover over so soon before the out-side of the knot be dead, that they become as clear Timber.

Thus have I shewed you, that all sorts of Trees come to have clear [Page 45] Bodies by pruning, either Natural or Artificial; that is by Cattel crop­ping, by under-wood beating off the side-boughs, or by standing close one to another, and so drawing up one another, and smothering the side-boughs by standing so thick, or by pruning, &c.

Thus have I shewed in part how to Raise and Order the Oak from the Acorn, till it is thirty or forty Years old. There is one thing more to be known, which is, how to Remove an Oak that is large (or other Tree) and that was never Removed before; I shall borrow part of it from the Learned Esquire Evelin's Discourse of Forest-trees, p. 13. Choose a Tree as big as your Thigh, saith he, (but if less, the better to grow) Remove the Earth from about him, cut through all the Col­lateral Roots, till with a Competent strength you can inforce him down upon one side, so as to come with your Ax at the tap root; cut that off, and cut all the Roots smooth on the under-side, re-dress your Tree, and so let it stand, covered about with the Mould you loosened from it, till the next Year, or rather longer, then take it up at a fit Season, and you will find it will (at those ends where the Roots were cut off) have drawn many tender young Roots, apt to take, and sufficient for the Tree wheresoever you shall transplant him: further to facilitate the Removal of such great Trees, or small ones that are ticklish to Remove, for the Adornment of some particular place, or the rarity of the Plant, there is this Expedient: A little before the hard Frosts surprise you, make a Trench about your Tree, at such distance from the stemme as you judge sufficient for the Roots; dig this so deep till you come lower than the side-roots, if your Ground be a dry Ground, water the Hill of Earth, the Frosts will lay hold on it the more, but commonly in Winter before Frosts we have showers saves you that Labour; then lay some Litter in the bottom of your Trench, which will keep that part from freezing, in case you have Occasion to undermine it more to loosen it when you take it up, as is very likely you will: Thus let it stand till some hard Frost do bind the Earth firmly to the Roots, and then convey it to the Pit or Hole prepared for its new station, having be­fore covered the Earth by with some Horse-Litter to keep that Earth [Page 46] from freezing, which Mould will then be ready to cover that clod round the Root of the Tree, and the ends of the Roots, and so secure it the better; and that Litter will do well to lay round the Tree on the top of the Ground.

But in case the Tree be very great, and the Mould about the Roots be so ponderous as not to be removed by an ordinary force, you must then have a Gin or Crane, such a one as they have to Load Timber with; and by that you may weigh it out of its place, and place the whole upon a Trundle or Sledge, to convey it to the place you desire; and by the afore-said Engine you may take it off from the Trundle, and set it in its hole at your pleasure. By this Address you may transplant trees of a great stature without the least Disorder, and by taking off the less of their Heads, which is of great Importance where this is practised, to supply a Defect, or remove a Curiosity.

I do suppose that one of these small Cranes or Gins would be very useful to those that have a great many pretty big trees to take up in their Nurseries, especially such as have strong and tough Roots; for if the Ground were but well loosened round the Roots, and a Rope well fa­stened a little above the Ground to the stemme of the tree, I dare en­gage, that this way one Man with a Lever shall draw up more than ten Men: And besides, this will draw upright, which is better than draw­ing on one side, as many are forced to do. You must have on the lower end of the three Legs, pieces of Plank, to keep it from sinking too far into the loose Ground: I have now one a making, and hereafter I shall be able to give you a better Account of it than now; the onely Inconve­nience I think of at present, is, in fastening the Rope about the Tree so, that it may not slide, or gall the tree; but a piece of good Leather, about four or five Inches broad, with three or four Straps to come through so many holes, when it is fastened to the Rope they may all be strained alike; this I suppose will do your work. The afore-said Learned Author Adviseth you, before you take up trees, to mark them all on one side, the better to place that side to point to the same Aspect it did before: For, Oaks growing on the North side of an Hill, are more Mossie than those that grow on the South-side: this I grant, because that side is Colder and Wetter; for it is Cold and Wet Ground that breeds Moss most, and that gets from the Ground upon the Trees: Also he says, that Apple-trees standing in a Hedge-row, after the Hedge was taken away, the Apple-trees did not thrive so well as they did be­fore, for want of the shelter of the Hedge. I say, that if the Hedge­row had drawn up the Apple-trees so as to make them top-heavy, they might not thrive so well; but if they were not, the shelter being taken [Page 47] away, they would thrive the better: unless by thriving he means grow­ing in height: See Lord Bacon's Natural History, p. 113. For a tree pent up cannot spread.

But as for placing the South-side of a tree South again, this is not to the purpose; for the greatest time that Trees grow in, is from the Suns entring into Aries to his entring into Libra; and all that time (that is, half a Year) the Tree hath the Sun on the North-side both Morn­ing and Evening, and the North side hath the benefit of warming it self later in the Evening, and earlier in the Morning, having two hours time earlier, and two later in the height of Summer, more than the South-side: Again, you shall have the Cold be as much on the South­side of a Wall or Tree in the Night, as on the North, if the Wind blow on the South-side; therefore I do Judge that to place a Tree the South­side South again, signifieth little, though the same Author saith, p. 88. and the Author of the Book, Called [Mathematical Recreations] p. 75. saith, That a Tree groweth more on the South-side than on the North; I have oft Observed the Annual Circles, and have found as many, nay more, to the contrary; for thus I have always found, on a Tree near the Ground the Annual Circles have been the greatest on that side from which most of the great Roots came: As if a Tree grow on the South-side of a Bank, you shall find the Circles on that Tree to be greatest on the North-side, &c. but higher on a Tree the Circles are ever greatest on that side the Tree where there is a great Bough breaks out, for the Sap has great recourse thither; many times by sudden cold some is stayed by the way, and so increaseth that side of the Tree most.

For I take the Sap of a Tree, if the Weather be open (that is, of those Trees that shed their Leaves) to be still ascending into the Head, though it be Mid-winter; though there do not rise enough to keep the Leaves on, nor to make it bud forth, yet it is plain that it keeps the buds full and fresh, and increaseth the growth of the Tree, for that same pory substance of the Tree which is between every Annual Circle that is made by the Winter-sap; and the milder the Winter is, the greater you shall find this to be, as is visible in Ash, Oak, Elm, &c. The other, which is more hard and clear, is increased by the Sap in Summer; and the more feeding the Summer is by showers, the more shall the Circles increase on dry Ground; and according to the Nature of the Ground that the Tree Loves, and the depth of the Soyl, so doth the Tree increase in these Circles and growth in all parts.

Between these Annual Circles doth some Sap rise, as is plain in a tree that is Barked round, for that tree shall put forth Leaves and increase [Page 48] in Body, but produce little or no shoot, and the more porous the tree is between these Annual Circles, the longer that tree will Live, as ac­cidentally I have had it Experimented on Walnut-trees, Ashes, &c. And they have continued sometimes two years, and sometimes near three before they have dyed, when they have been barked quite round the stemme, a Foot or more; and by way of Experiment I cut off the Bark from a Holly-tree and a Box-tree about half a Foot clean, quite round the stemme or body of each tree, and the tops of both did die in less than one years time, which informed my Reason, as much as though I had Learned it out of the most Learned Author, that the Sap of those trees that shed their Leaves, doth in a small quantity ascend between the Annual Circles, in that pory place: for trees that hold their leaves, their Wood is close, and Compact between the Annual Circles, and that is the Reason that they die soon, being barked round: Also their Sap being of a Turpentine and Clammy Substance, is the Reason they hold their Leaves all Winter, being as it were glued on by that Substance; and the Sap of such Trees as hold their Leaves, being once set by cold, requires a pretty deal of heat to make it thin, and set it on Motion: As Comparatively, a little Cold will set or make stiff Pitch or Turpentine; but it must be Frost that sets or stays the Motion of Water.

Also those Trees which hold their Leaves will grow much better un­der the dropping of other great Trees, than those that shed their Leaves; for their Turpentine-sap shoots off the drops, so that they have little or no harm by such a Scituation,

But in case you should have a Tree Barked round by Accident, and would willingly preserve it, your best way is to get a shoot below the wounded place, and if your Tree be Young, you shall then have seve­ral break out a little above the Root, if you find they shoot strong, preserve two of the strongest, and see that the Barked place be near the Ground; but if your Tree be Barked high from the Ground, or that it shoot up slowly, then leave but one shoot, keeping all other that shoot out clean taken off, as soon as ever you see them break out; so Nourish up the two shoots or shoot till you have got them higher than the wounded place; then cut a long slit in the Bark, above the wound, and joyn in that shoot exactly, making it fit the slit, the in-side of one bark right against the in-side of the other; tie it close in, and Loom it over with good and well tempered Loom, to keep the Air and wet out; or better with soft Wax. The Spring is the best Season, but if you fear your Tree to decay, defer not, but do it as soon as your shoots be shot long enough.

If you would be further satisfied concerning the Largeness and Use­fulness [Page 49] of this Royal Tree, see Esquire Evelyn's Discourse of Forest­trees, who hath writ very well of this and others; but before I bid adieu, I must Plant these few unpruned Verses, and so leave the most Useful Oak.

THere are several sorts of Elm, but the best sort (because it pro­duceth the greatest Trees, and soonest comes to perfection) is that which hath its Leaves not much less than Line, or Lime-tree leaves, and shoots with a shoot not much less than a Sallow when it is lopped: it is called by some the Trench-Elm, by others the Marsh-Elm. Some other sorts there are that are not much inferiour to this for producing high and good Timber. One sort there is that hath on the young shoots great pieces like Cork, subject to spread in head much, and grow crook­ed, this is not very good to make high Trees, but makes good Pollards: Another sort there is which I see in Essex, the sides are subject to have Wenns thick on them, which makes the Body hard to cleave: this is not very good to make a high Tree, but good Pollards.

All sorts of Elms doe increase from the roots much of themselves; and the more you take, the more they will give, provided you keep them from being taken from you; that is, from being spoyled by Cat­tel, and though they be so kind of themselves, yet there are several wayes to increase them, but the way to have of the best Kinds, and to make the finest Trees, is by raising them of seeds.

Therefore about the beginning of March, or about the tenth, you shall find the broad things like Hops begin to fall, which have the seed in them; when you find these begin to fall, in a dry day (if conveni­ently you can) gather what quantity you please to sow, then lay them thin in some place where they may drye four or five dayes, and then having prepared a Bed (in bigness according to the quantity of your Seeds) of fresh light Brick-earth, sow the seeds and their Vessels all over, then sift some of the same Mould all over the bed, for they will not well rake in; let them be covered about half an Inch thick; if the Summer prove drye, water them sometimes, and keep them clean from Weeds; let not weeds stand on your bed till they be great, lest in pull­ing such up you spoyl their spearing, by breaking it off, or by letting in the drye Aire, and so kill it; therefore keep your Beds clean from weeds, and about the middle or latter end of August they will be come [Page 51] up: About the midst of September sift a little richer Mould all over the Bed, but not so much as to cover them, thus doe the next Summer, and take off the side [...] boughs though young, and when they have stood two years on that Bed, then plant them on beds in your Nursery, keeping them with digging and pruning up yearly, till you have got them to the stature you think convenient to plant abroad. In setting this or any sort of Tree forget not to top the ends of the tap-root▪ or other long ones, and also not to leave a bruised End uncut off. You may set them in streight lines in your Nursery, about a yard one Row from another, and about a foot and a half one Tree from another, in the Rowes; mind the Natural depth it first did grow at, and set it so when you remove it; have a care of setting any Tree too deep, and also keep not this Tree nor a Walnut long out of the ground, for their spongy Roots will in a little time grow Mouldy and be spoyled: There­fore if you cannot set them, let them be covered with Earth, and then you shall find this Tree as patient in removing, and as certain to grow as any Tree I know.

The ground they like best is a light Brick-earth or Loom, as I said before; that they dislike most is, a rocky ground, or a stiffe clay; but if one have a mixture of Brick-earth, &c. and the other of small Gravel, Drift-sand, Sand, &c. then there they will do pretty well.

They naturally increase very much of themselves, and the more where they meet with natural ground: if you fell a thriving Tree, and fence in the place, you then may have a store to furnish your Woods and Hedge-rows with the worst; and the straightest to nurse up in your Nurseries, for to make VValks, Avenues, Glades, &c. with; for there is no tree more proper for the certainty of its growing, espe­cially if you make good large and deep holes, and where the ground is not natural, there help it by some that is, and then you may hope for a stately high growing Tree, if you take care in pruning it up, as is before shewed of the Oak. You need not much fear its growing top-heavy; for it having such a thick bark, the sap is subject to lodge in it, and break out many side-boughs, and the Roots apt to break out with suckers, the more when pruned, therefore prune it up high, and often, but let the season be February, for then its fine dark, green­coloured Leaf, and long hanging on it, is the more ornamental, and fit for walks.

As for the way to increase it from the Roots of another Tree, I doe referre you to the seventh Chapter, which will shew you fully how to perform the same; observing but them Rules▪ you may raise many fine [Page 52] young Trees from the Roots of another, much better than naturally they will be produced from the Roots.

I advise you where you find your ground Natural in your Hedge­rowes, there to plant some of this most usefull wood; for it will run in the Banks, and thicken your Hedges with wood, and is very cour­teous to other sorts of wood growing by it.

Do not let ignorant Tradition possess you that it will grow of the Chips, or of Truncheons set, like Sallowes, though the Author of the Commons Complaint saith it will, for I assure you it neither doth nor will.

In Lopping of this, be carefull to cut your boughs close and smooth off, minding to keep them perpendicular to the Horizon, the better to shoot off the wet,

It will grow well of Laying, (as is before noted and also directed in the Chapt. of Laying) in which if you take but a little labour more than ordinary, from one Tree you may have (in a few years) many in your Hedge-rowes or elsewhere; therefore deferre not, but put this in practice, especially the great Kind: My Lord Bacon adviseth to bud it, to make the Leaves the larger, but that is needless.

Part of these Rules I wrote some years agoe, at the request, and for the use of the truely ingenious Planter, and Lover thereof, Sir Henry Capell; and I shall give you the same Conclusion now, that I did then to him, which take as followeth.

AND as for Raising the Ash, I shall give you the same Rules as I did to the aforesaid Honourable Person the same time, before the Discourse of Forrest-trees was written.

Let your Keyes be thorow ripe, which will be about the middle or end of October, or November: When you have gathered them, lay them thin to dry, but gather them off from a young straight thriving Tree: My Reason to gather them off a young thriving tree, is, because there will the Keyes, or seeds in the Keyes, be the larger and solider, therefore by consequence they are the abler to shoot the stronger, and to maintain themselves the better and longer: Though I know by ex­perience that the seeds of some old Plants will come up sooner (so the seed be perfect) than the seed of young Plants; and also that old seed, (so it will but grow) will come up sooner than new Seed. My afore­said Reasons do in part demonstrate this: Or thus, Nature finding her self weak, doth (like a provident Mother) seek the sooner to provide for her weak Children: for Nature is one in divers things, and yet va­rious in one thing.

Now if you gather them off from a straight tree, 'tis the likelier they will run more up, and grow straighter than those which be gather­ed off a Pollard or crooked tree: for it is well known, and might be proved by many Instances, that Nature doth delight in Imitation, and the Defects of Nature may be helped by Art; for the great Altera­tions which many times we find visible in many Vegetables of the same species, they all proceed either from the Earth, the Water, or the Heavenly Influences; but the last is the greatest Author of Alteration, both in Sensibles, Vegetables and Animals. However, Like still pro­duceth its Like; and since there is such plenty of Forrest-trees that bear seed, you may as well gather all sorts of Keyes and Seeds off or under such Trees, as not.

As for the time of sowing them, let it be any time between the lat­ter end of October, and the last of January; for they will lie till Spring come twelve Months before they appear: if your ground be not very subject to great weeds, you may sow them with Oats, if you be [Page 54] minded to make a Wood of it; and in your VVoods on the top of your Ground; but if they be prepared before-hand, they will be much more certain of growing: therefore if you would be sure to raise good store of them for to make VValks, or furnish your VVoods with, &c. having gathered your Keyes, and ordered them as is aforesaid, pre­pare some sifted Earth, or Sand, which is better by keeping an equal warmth and moysture, to prepare them for spearing. Having prepa­red your sand, and a house to lay them in, where the Air may freely come, then in this House lay one Laying of Sand and a Laying of Keyes, parting your Keyes well; so doe till you have (Laying after Laying) covered all your Keyes in the Couch, any time in VVinter, as is be­fore directed: Let your Sand be pretty moyst, and so keep it all that year; and having prepared your Ground by often digging, and a ten­der Soyl, (which the Ash loves) then about the latter end of January sowe them on this Bed, covering them about one Inch, or an Inch and a half thick: Do not let them lie too long uncovered when you take them out of their Couch; for then they will be speared, and if they lie too long in the Aire, it will spoyl them: Do not sowe them in frosty weather; but if Frosts be, stay till they be over.

Mind to keep them clean from weeds the first year, for they will shoot but little the first year, but the second they will shoot strongly: the VVinter after you may transplant them upon Beds, pruning the little side-shoots, and topping the tap-root. Keep them with digging and pruning every year on these Beds, and in few years they will be fit for Walks, Woods, &c. and one of these thus ordered, shall be worth ten taken out of VVoods, for they will be taper and fine trees. VVhen you remove an Ash, take not off his head, if he be not too top-heavy, that you can possibly help it; for an Ash and a VValnut are two of the worst Trees I know to head, they having such a great Pith: but the side-boughs you may be bold to take off, provided you take them off close, and the Boughs not very great. It is not very apt to break much into side-boughs, and heals over the wound as well as any tree except the Beech; then why will you have low Timber-trees of Ashes, when you may as well have high ones? Therefore prune up your young Ash-trees well and often: And if you follow but these Rules, you may raise them as easily as Barley, and as thick.

As touching the several Kinds, some Authors will have two sorts, the Male and Female: but there is no such thing as Male and Female among Plants, though some Plants are so called; for what Act of either do any two Plants communicate to each other? The greatest [Page 55] difference that ever I observed in young Ashes, among the many thousands that I have raised, was in their Bark; for I have had some that have had blackish Bark, some reddish, the Leaves alike, but what difference there will be in the Keyes and Timber, I yet know not.

The Ash is not fit to be set near fine Gardens, for the Leaves turn to soyl suddenly, and so spoyl your VValks; also the Roots run so shallow that they will rob your Borders, and spoyl your Fruit-trees: They are as bad by your plow'd Ground, for the Roots will so draw the strength of the Ground from the Corn, that it will languish and pine away. And this I have observed, that the Summer after a Tree is lopped, it shall rob the Corn more than another bigger standing by it, as may be visible by the growth of the Corn: I have wilfully experienc'd it, and I conceive the Reason to be this; the Sap riseth into the head of the Pollard (as usually it did) and so into the Boughs, but finding the Boughs cut off, it filleth the Head so full, that it causeth it to swell in the Spring; and this is the reason Pollard-heads are bigger than any other part of the body of the Tree; the head being so full that it can contain the sap no longer, it then breaketh out in­to abundance of young shoots, and when they set once a growing they grow apace, and so the Bark of them being thin and open for the Sap to run in, they receive as much as the Roots can possibly provide for them▪ and endeavour to enlarge the Head to that mag­nitude as it was at before.

But though the Ash doth harm to grow near or upon plowed Ground, yet it is the usefullest wood that growes, for the Plough and other uses belonging to the Plough-man. It is a quick-growing wood, and will grow pretty well on most sorts of Grounds, provi­ded they be not too wet, or very shallow: It grows best on such Grounds as have their surface of a loose Nature, so that it be not too shallow. It produceth excellent Timber for several uses, and is such a quick-grower, that from a Key, in Forty years, one Ash was sold for Thirty pounds sterling, as witnesseth the ingenious Author of the Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 22. And this I can tell, which my Lord and I measured, of the shoot of an Ash that stood between the Wood-yard at Hadham-Hall, and a place where I used to raise Me­lon plants; that the second years shoot was Eight foot within two Inches; which had it shot but a few years at this rate, it would soon have been a very great Tree, and worth a like price.

Of all the VVood that I know, there is none burns so well green [Page 56] as the Ash; and that is one Reason that many a fine Pollard is spoyl­ed: For your bad Husbands (as they are tearmed) are as unkind to Trees as they are to themselves: For their want of Wood early in the VVinter, makes them flie to the Ash, whence they hack off the Boughs, and thus leave him all Winter; in which time the wood be­ing not very hard, that drinks in the wet at these wounded places, and before the Spring comes to heal it over, decayes, and so by that means every Winter receiveth the wet more and more, till it hath de­stroyed Root, Body and Branch.

On the other side, there are some which will not lop their Trees till they bear very great Boughs; and then lop off them, (smooth and well cut off) though it be in the Spring; yet in such great wounds, before the Sap can cover the place, the wet makes a hole in some or many of these places; and so you lose both Body and Lops in a few years. Besides the lopping of Trees young, that is, at ten or twelve years at the most, by so doing you keep your Tree much the longer alive; and you shall have shoots of Trees at first felling, grow more into wood in one year, than they do when old Lops in two or three, and in all Respects are as usefull for the Fire: Then I intreat you be not so wilfull, as to make you and yours poor, and also spoyl your trees.

Therefore in lopping of Pollards, especially soft wood, let it be towards the Spring, and let not your Lops grow so great, as to spoyl your trees and lose the use of your Money. If once you find your Pollard grow much hollow at the Head, down with it as soon as may be, for it then decayes more in the Body than the Lop comes to; and if your Timber-trees be dead-topt, or most of the Head dead, or that you find Wood-peckers, or Nihills make holes in them, then fell them as soon as the season is, (which is from October to February) for when they begin to decay, they decay apace.

I know it is the Opinion of most men, that these Birds spoyl their Trees; but let me tell you, they rarely make holes in sound Timber, therefore Learn of them, and fell the trees of which they give you warning by making holes in them: the sooner the less Timber lost.

OF the Kinds of Beech I know but one, though some say there be more.

About the middle of September you will find the Mast begin to fall apace, then gather what Quantity you think good to sow, and as soon as your seeds be drye, make a Couch of Sand, as you are be­fore directed for the Ash, and sowe them before the Moneth Septem­ber be past; Keep them in the Couch moderately moyst (not so wet as you keep the Ash) untill the latter end of January, then sowe them in a bed of light gravelly Earth, made on purpose: Or if you fancy to sowe them in your Woods, that is the best time; or you may sowe them in the Month September in your Woods: But if you keep them in the House all Winter, and sowe them at the first Rise of the Spring, you will preserve them from Mice and other Vermine the better; they affect a gravelly light Soyl, and will not thrive on Clayes: If you would make a Nursery of them, your Ground must be accord­ingly, or else they will thrive but badly with you.

Of all VVoods that are, this may the best be pruned up; for it growes over the place in little time, and is not subject to break out side-boughs: It is fitting for Walks where the Ground is Natural for it, but it is so nice in its ground, that I do think there are few VValks of any great Length, but have some Veins of Ground it doth not like.

BEfore we come to Raise this Tree, or Gather the Nuts, there may be these Enquiries made.

First, you will desire to know what kind of Nut is likeliest to pro­duce the best Fruit; and to know what Kinds will alter from that Kind to a better (as most Kinds of Fruit will degenerate, some for the bet­ter, and some near the same, and some worse) as also to know the ve­ry Nut, or Nuts, and other sorts of Fruits which will do so.

As for the Kinds that are likeliest to produce the best Fruit, and the most likely to produce better, Observe to gather your Nuts, Stones, or Kernels off from some young thriving Tree, that is in its Prime of bearing, and hath the Kernels plump, large, and full, and of the best sorts; and if it be of Fruit that is too subject to Ripe late with us, then let it be of the earliest Kinds, and as for the latest Kind, preserve them for Stocks onely: also if it may be, make choice of such Fruit as is lately produced from some other good Kind, and is better than the Kind it came of; for you cannot expect to have as good an Apple produced from the Kernel of a Crab, as you may have from the Kernel of a good Pippin: for if the one bring you a good Wilding, and the other an Ap­ple, either more large, or more beautiful, and as good, if not better, and of different taste, this is as much as can be well expected: for Na­ture doth not run her Journey all at once, but makes several small ones, and many times more backward than forward, the better to encourage Ingenious Men to try and observe her ways: but to those that are dili­gent she often drops her blessings, and requites them well for their di­ligence. And if you would obtain a blessing in you Works by Nature, you must frequently be begging it of the great God of Nature, and by his assistance and your diligence, you need not doubt accomplishing you Lawful desires: Of this Truth doubt not.

The Lord Bacon, in his Natural History, tells you of an Old Tra­dition, that boughs of the Oak put into the Earth, will put forth Wild Vines. I wish all such Old Traditions were buried in the Earth in room of the Oak-boughs.

[Page 59] He tells us also of an Old Beech-tree cut down, the Root whereof put forth a Birch, See p. 111.

This most Learned Man, in his next page lays down six Rules (though all, as he confesseth, untried by him) concerning the trans­mutation of Plants.

The first is, if you would have one Plant turn into another, you must have the Nourishment over-rule the Seed.

The Second is, to bury some few Seeds of the Plant you would change, among other Seeds.

The Third is, to make some Medley or mixture of Earth with some other Plants bruised, or shaven, either Leaf or Root.

The Fourth is, to mark what Herbs some Earth does put forth of its self, and to sow some contrary Seed in that Earth.

The Fifth is, to make an Herb grow contrary to its Nature.

The Sixth is, to make Plants grow out of the Sun, or open Air; as in the bottom of a Pond, or in some great hollow tree.

I might and could Answer to all these, but I think it would be too te­dious; for I do verily believe, that to sow Seeds any way that can be devised by Man, will not in the least cause them to be quite another kind of Plant; for if you find any alteration, in any Plant that is, it is from the Conception and Nativity of the Seed; for there is no real al­teration but by Seed. I know that Plants or Trees may bring fairer, or smaller Flowers, or Fruits according to the Ordering and Natural Situation of the Ground, and the contrary: For it is in vain to think, that the Kernels of an Apple will bring forth a Pear, or a Pear an Ap­ple; or that Cherry-stones will produce a Plumb, or Plumb-stones a Cherry: But if you sow the Kernels of good Pears or Apples, &c. then you may expect good Fruit, and of different taste, shape, or big­ness, as is afore-said; for I do believe all our sorts of Pippins come from one: the Burry-pear from the Green-field, the Pettit Rouselet from the Katharine, &c. And so of Walnuts, or other Fruit; and what should be the Reason then we do not Raise as many new sorts of Fruit as the French? And though I do deviate a little from my intended Discourse, I shall shew you that we can do it as well as they, and I suppose better, though we do it not; but before I proceed to give you further Judgment of it, I will in some measure Answer my Querie, which was, to know the very particular Fruit that will alter for the best: I do not affirm it as true as the Gospel, but onely conclude according to Reason.

First, it is known by Experience in Flowers to be true; that such Flowers as differ in number of Leaves, in shape, in Colours, the Seeds of such will produce Flowers much different from the Ordinary Kind [Page 60] of Flowers, though produced all of one Flower but a Year or two be­fore; nay, a particular Flower among many others, of one Plant, shall bring more double ones than twenty others that are not so qualified as it: this is apparently known to all that take delight in Raising of Flow­ers, that the Stock-gilly-flower that hath Flowers of 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 Leaves, that the Seed of such a particular Flower or Flowers will pro­duce more double ones than those Plants that bring forth but four leaves, Quantity for Quantity of Seed, twenty for one: You may know these Flowers before they blow out in the bud; I confess this Flower doth shew this by its Leaves more than any other I know; for this Flower having no thrum in the middle, as the most of Flowers have, Nature hath given it this Sign to inform Man, that those that have a Leaf or Leaves added to them more than their usual kind, will bring forth those with many Leaves, and make a fine double Flower; which when it hath attained to, it then is come to the bounds of Nature, which the Almighty hath alotted it, saying, Thus far shalt thou go, and no fur­ther: for when it is thus a double flower, it never beareth Seed more, but by endeavouring blows it self to Death.

If you be Curious, you may observe the same Rule in several other flowers that have no thrum in the middle, as Auriculoes, Prim-Rose, Wall-flowers, Campians, and several others; and when you find on Leaf or Leaves more than the ordinary number, you may conclude there, Nature hath set one step forward in altering from the ordinary Kind; therefore if you be a Lover of Plants, or a Servant of Nature, be diligent, and whensoever you see your Mistress step out of Door, then do you wait upon her to her Journeys end, for 'tis on the Diligent she bestows her Favours.

Also those flowers which bear Seed when double, as the Gilly-flower, Affrican, &c. Sowing the Seed of such double flowers, they will bring you more and better flowers a hundred for one than single ones; and in sowing the Seed of such, you shall have several Varieties, but most marked with the colour the Mother-plant was of; and some of these will, as it were, run beyond the limits of Nature, and then they will break, or have pods in the middle, and then never bear Seed more. Gilly-flowers have their sign, which will bear Seed, and which not: Those that will bring Seed (if Weather or other Accidents hinder not) have their Hornes in the middle of the Flower.

It is also observed in the marking of flowers, that the Seed of those that be striped shall bring the most striped ones, and some of different Colours and stripes, their Seed all alike. But it may be Answered, that this may be true in flowers, for none can deny it, but that such flowers [Page 61] will alter, and bring forth such flowers as afore-said: but can the alter­ing of the Fruit be known by the flower?

To this I Answer, that you have not onely the Leaves of the flower, but the thrum and the Fruit it self, to inform you which will alter; there­fore by the Shape, Colour, or Thrum in the Flower, you may know which fruits will alter, and it is possible, which will alter for the best; for it is commonly known, that fruit will alter from the fruit they come of, by sowing the Nuts, Kernels, or Seeds.

Now, when you have made choice of your Seeds, Stones, Nuts, Raise them as is Directed in each Chapter of the Kind, in good fresh Ground, and by Midsomer that Year they will have shot so strong, that you may take off Buds of some sorts, and of all sorts the next Year, having in readiness some fine thriving stock against some good Wall, for that will make the fruit set the sooner when it comes to blow: At a fit Season bud these Stocks, if Pears on Quince-stocks; if Peaches, Nectrons, or Plumb, on some large white Plumb-stocks, &c. If they be Apples or Walnuts, they may be from the Wall: bud your Apples or Cod­lins, or Apple of Paradice (which is a sort of Dwarf-sweeting, and will grow of Cuttings; if Walnuts, on a fine Young Walnut-tree, bud it five or six foot high; this doth not onely alter the Property of the Wild Kind, but it makes the Tree more Naturally bear fruit much soon­er and better, if well Ordered; your Pears, Plumbs, and Peaches will bear in three or four years after, your Apples and Walnuts in five or six years after.

I know my Lord Bacon tells you, that Peaches come best of Stones, unbudded, but I advise you to bud all you Raise of Stones, Seeds, &c. though it be to take a bud off from the same stock, and to bud it on that, as I have often done.

Those that have great Grounds to look to, and good Ingenuity, let them but put this in Practice, and I am confident they will find great sa­tisfaction therein, and in a little time Raise many new sorts of fruit.

Now, the Reason why in France they Raise more Varieties of fruit and flowers than we do, is this: there are many Ingenious Men in their Monasteries, and there they being Seated as long as they Live, there they Raise many fine fruits and flowers,

Now, if our Noble Men that take delight in Gardens, as all that are Ingenious do, would provide themselves of good Ingenious Gardi­ners, and allow them good Encouragement, with assurance of conti­nuing in their Service so long as they carry themselves carefully in their Employ, and are faithful in their Place; this would certainly cause them to improve their Places, much for their Masters good and Profit, and [Page 62] their own Credit, or give them Patents for their Places, as His Ma­jesty does to the Gardiners he keeps, for which I hope none better ser­ved. A good Cook can Dress you several Dishes of Meat very well in half a day, and if one miscarry, they can in a little time make ano­ther; but the Gardiner must have several Moneths or Years, to bring some things to Perfection; and if He miscarry, he cannot begin again when he will, but he must wait his time with Patience; therefore he ought the more to be careful.

But for this Digression I must crave your Pardon; and thus I have shewed you, that it is not the mixing of Earth with other Plants, that will make them change into such Plants as you mix the Earth with, or make the Plant alter to any purpose; for the main alteration of all Plants is from their Seed; though it may be, mixing such Plants or Shavings with the Earth you sow Seed in, may cause them to have some quality of the Physical use of the Plant in them; as is the Opinion of the Learn­ed, that Misceltoe on the Oak, and Polipody of the Oak, and Elder on the Willow, &c. do partake of the Physical uses of those Plants on which they grow: for in Nature you may find, that many Bodies do not onely by their Qualities Affect their Adjacents, but also infuse their Virtue into them, and endue them with the same faculty; as the Load­stone doth not onely attract Iron, but Communicates its Virtue to it, and makes it Magnetical by touching, &c.

But I shall leave the Stones, and return to the Walnut-tree. Let your Nuts be very Ripe, and when they begin to fall, then beat the rest off from the Tree, and lay them by, that the outward Husk may Crack, then peel them, but do not wash them, for wet doth make the Kernel Crack, and Mould, and spoyls it: When you have taken off the Husk, lay them thin to dry in some dry open Room, turn them some­times with a Broom.

When they have sweat, and are dry, about the beginning of Octo­ber put them into Sand a little moyst, making it a little wetter about Christmas, for then they will begin to spear, and then will digest it: Sow them not in their Husks, neither steep them, as some Advise. Set or Sow them about the latter end of January, or beginning of Febru­ary, in good fresh Ground, minding the aforesaid Rules, and you shall not lose one in a hundred; and cover them about an Inch and a half, or two Inches; keep them well Weeded on their first bed, and when they have stood two Summers, then Remove them into other beds, setting them about a yard asunder, one Row from another, and about a foot and a half one from another in the Rows: Cut the Tap-root and all bruised Roots off, and the side-boughs, but cut not off the Head of a Walnut-tree.

[Page 63] Keep them with digging, and hoing, and pruning up, till you have got them five or six foot high, then bud them, it will make them bear sooner, and then you are certain of a good Kind; for I presume you will not bud them with a bad Kind, if you know it.

If you do not bud them, let them Head about six foot high a year or two, and then Remove them; but keep them not long in the open Air, for the Roots being of a spongy Nature, will take in the Air so fast, that they will soon Mould, and Kill your Tree, therefore set them as soon as you can, when once taken up.

Remove them young off from the Seed-bed, as is before Advised; for if you let them stand to be great on the place where they were first sowed, they will be much more dangerous to Remove, and not so likely to thrive.

The Ground they Love is a deep Soyl, and of a dry Nature, on a sharp Gravel, if the Ground be shallow, they will not prosper, but if the Gravel be mixed with Loom, they will do well: They Love not a stiff Clay, but if it be mixed Naturally with stones or Chalk, and not too shallow, then they will thrive on it.

It is a proper Tree to set in Woods, for it will run up (if the side-boughs be taken off) to a great height, and yield very good Timber for many Uses.

TOuching the Kinds of this Nut, there may be several, but I know but three; one of them is very good, which ought to be the more Increased.

For the time of Gathering, Observe the same as before is said of the Walnut: When you have gathered them, and taken the Husks off, lay them to dry and sweat, but not too thick.

Do not steep them in Water, as some Advise you, for it is not good to steep any sort of Seed, unless some Annuals, and to steep them is good, especially if lated in sowing; but to steep Stones, Nuts, or Seeds that are not of quick growth, watering them may Kill them, by ma­king the Kernel swell too hastily, and so crack it before the spear causeth it; or it may Mould and stupifie the spear; therefore let no Seeds what­soever, [Page 64] that are not quick of growth, have too much wet at first.

You must put your Chesnuts (then) in Sand, a little moist, about the beginning or middle of November; make it a little moister about the beginning of January, and at the latter end or beginning of Febru­ary sow them on beds, and cover them about two Inches, or you may set them by a Line, as you set Beans, or you may sow them in drills, as Beans, or you may sow them where you intend they shall stand; and in any of these ways or places keep them clean from Weeds the first or second year, then you may Remove them into your Nursery off from the Seed-bed: prune off the side-boughs and Roots.

They are Subject to put forth many side-boughs near the Ground, whereby they may be increased by Laying very easily, to do which, see Chap. 5. But the best way is to Raise them of Nuts.

Set them in Rows in your Nursery, and Order them as is shewed of the Walnut.

The Soyl they Love is such as the Walnut takes delight to grow in.

They be Excellent to set in Coppices or Woods; the Timber is ve­ry Useful, and they will grow to be large for under-wood; if the Tree be much crooked, fell it, it will yield great store of strong shoots from the stemme, some of which it will be convenient to Lay, whereof you may leave some Layed to thicken the place, and others to Plant where you please, and may have great shoots from the stemme for several Uses also.

AS for the Kinds of the Sarvice, they may be many; there is one whose Fruit is much better than the other, but whether it is the Ground makes it so I cannot positively say. We have them grow at Hadham on very stiff Ground; the Trees bear well, and the Fruit is good: and at Cashiobury we have them on a sharp Gravel, the Fruit naught, and the Trees bear very badly.

It may be Raised of the Seed or Stone that is in the Berries, which, when they are rotten, are then Ripe; that is, about the latter end of September, or beginning of October; eat off the Fleshy part, or rub it [Page 65] off by Rolling them in Sand, then dry them in the open Aire, and keep them in moyst Sand till the beginning of January, then sow them on moist Ground, or in the shade; keep them from weeds, then let them stand two or three Years, and then plant them in your Nursery, as you are directed for Walnut-trees, there keep them with digging and pruning till they are fit of stature to plant out; they grow in good shape, and last long: it is a fine tree for VValks, it likes best a strong ground, but let it be good, and there they will bear store of Fruit, and grow to be large, fine Trees.

They be very subject to put forth suckers, by which they be easily increased from the Roots of the Mother-tree: but how to do that see Chapt. 7. there you may be fully satisfied how to raise them.

When you have got them to five or six foot high, bud them; they will bear sooner, more, and better, &c.

I Know many will say, that it is not proper to rank this among For­rest-trees; but if such did but see the fine stately Trees that we have growing in the Woods at Cashiobury, they would then conclude it proper for Woods; and if for Woods then for Forrests.

Where they like the ground, they make a glorious shew in the Spring, their white Blossoms shewing at a distance as though they were cloathed with fine white Linnen; their Blossoms are a great Re­lief to the industrious Bees at that season: the way to raise and order them is as followeth.

And first you must know, that the best way to raise them, is of Stones. Let your Cherries be very ripe, for the riper your Cherry is, (or any other Fruit) the plumper and better is the Kernel.

The time they be Ripe is according to the kind, but it is the black Cherry which growes common in Woods and Hedges about Cashio­bury, which is the Tree fitting for VVoods, and therefore how to Raise it I shall shew, though there be much difference in these also; for we have some full as large and good as the Corowne, and at a place called Red-heath, at one Mr. Baldwins, they have some sorts not infe­riour to the black Orleance, which are produced naturally from the [Page 66] Stones, without Budding or Grafting, or any other help but the Nature of the Ground, which indeed is very natural to them.

They are ripe in July, and the largest sorts are ripe latest; the Fowls of the Aire will give you notice of their time of being Ripe, by their visiting them, which are as so many Messengers to awaken the industrious to take care in time to preserve them; and to the careless man and Sluggard, to take that away from him which he will not take care of: For, as the wisest of men saith, Prov. 20. The Sluggard will not plow by reason of cold, therefore shall he beg in Harvest; so he that will not take care in time, shall want when others have. But we have such store, that what the Jack-dawes, Jayes, Mag-pies, &c. eat, they are not missed with us; and though the Fowls do begin to eat them as soon as they turn blackish, yet Nature hath tied them on so fast to the stalk, that they can but take off part of the flesh, and leave the Stone and rest to feed the Kernel; for the wonderfull wise God hath ordered most sorts of Fruit so, that some by their bitter, sower, or other tastes, are so well defended, that neither Bird nor Beast will touch them till the Kernels be ripe, or near it, and then the fleshy part and Kernels also are pleasing to their Pallats.

When the Fruit is Ripe gather them, and have the fleshy part eaten off, or taken off, by rolling them in Sand that is drye, with some heavy Plank upon them, drawing it too and again to take off the flesh; when you have so done, drye them for three or four dayes, then put them into pretty moist Sand, and so keep them till the beginning of February in house, and then sowe them in a Bed of light gravelly Mould; if your Bed be not naturally so, make it so; keep them clean from weeds for two years, and then you may plant them in Woods, Coppices, Hedge-rowes, &c. or in your Nursery, to raise other Kinds of, or there to stand till they be fit for walks; for where the Ground is Natural, they be very proper for walks. The ground they like, is a dry Soil, the bottom Gravel, the surface mixed with Loom.

Or you may sowe them on Beds as soon as you have taken the flesh off, and they will do very well, and come up the Spring fol­lowing, and then you may plant them at two years shoot, where you please; but if you keep them too long out of the Ground before you sowe them, they will lie two Winters in the ground before they come up.

Note this, that all sorts of Stone-fruit would be committed to the Earth as soon as the Fruit is Ripe, the Flesh taken off, and the Stones a little drye: for all sorts of Stone-fruit, if well kept, and sown or set in time, will come up the Spring after, but if you keep them too long [Page 67] out of the Ground, they then will stay till the second Spring, and some­times never come up at all.

At any time when you Remove a young Cherry-tree, you may prune off his head close, if you please, to one shoot; for they Natu­rally grow taper and straight: They are subject to increase from the Roots of another Tree, but if you would help Nature in Raising of them that way, see Chap. 7.

It is a good wood to plant in Coppices, for it produceth a strong shoot, and it is (like the Elm) apt to put forth several young Trees from the Roots of other Trees; but especially if you fell a tree that is not too Old, and it be in a light Ground: for then it will bring ma­ny from the Roots of one tree, and so thicken your wood much. It produceth great Trees in a light ground, that being the Soil it liketh; but in a stiffe cold Ground it is not so ready to grow, nor bring such fine high taper-trees, nor increase so from the Roots, as it will on light ground. Once I measured a Cherry-tree in Cashiobury Wood­walk, first by the Quadrant, and so I found it 85 foot high; but for more Exactness (being the Tree leant, by reason of another which was blown upon it by a high wind,) I saw it measured by a Line let from the top-shoot to the Ground, and it was 85 foot five Inches, there­fore I think such trees as this might well be accompted among Forrest­trees.

When you transplant young Cherrie trees, do not set them too deep; nor indeed no other sort of tree, but especially those that natu­rally run shallow, as all sorts do that be subject to put forth young Trees from their Roots, such is the Elm, Abele, Sarvice, Cherry, &c. This tree is wanting in several parts of this Land: But you that want it, I would counsel you to get it as soon as your Ground is convenient for it.

THis Tree is called by most Herbals the Line-tree; or Linden, but vulgarly the Lime-tree: But call it which you please, for I shall not trouble my self with the Etymology of the Name.

Of this Tree there are but two Kinds, that I know, one of which is [Page 68] the broad-leaved, and this shoots with a stronger shoot than the other; the broad-leaved one is much to be preferred before the other, for the aforesaid Reasons, and several others: of the broad-leaved Line we have had, of late years, several trees from Holland.

I have raised several hundreds of Seeds of this sort. The narrow­leaved Line growes plentifully in several places of this Land, as in se­veral of my Lords Woods in Essex: This latter is harder to remove with good success than the former: the Reason is, because it hath not been so much used to be transplanted, therefore not so certain to grow as the great-leaved; according to our old Proverb, Ʋse makes Per­fectness.

Some Authors tell you, that they are Male and Female, but there is no such thing in Plants; for both these Kinds bear seed, but it ripens not every year with us in England.

You may raise this fine Tree by Seed or by Laying, either way with great facility, and great Increase: But of this, as of all other Trees, to raise them of Seed is the best way: For my Honourable Lord, and the Honourable Sir Henry Capel, have seen such difference between those raised of Seed, and those of Layers, that when they were Trees of eight or ten years growth, they have often told me which was raised from Seed, and which from a Layer; for that raised from seed, much out-growes the other, and keeps its Taper-shape for several years after they be planted out in Walks: The taperness of the Seed-tree makes it grow as straight as an Arrow; but this I advise you, that when you gather the Seed, you mind to gather it off from some of the broad-leaved Line-trees, and of those that shoot with a strong shoot: But as I told you before, the Seeds do not ripen every year with us; but you may know that, by cracking the husk or shell of the seed: for if the Seed be good, it will lie plump and full under the husk, the body white, if you bite it in two. But if the year be not kind for the Seed, most of the Husks or Seed-vessels will have nothing but a little chaffie substance in them, and some few will have some small lank seeds in them.

But to our Purpose▪ to raise them of Seeds, let your Seed be very Ripe, which will be in October, gather it in a drye day, and after you have dryed it about a week in an open Room, then put it in a Couch of Sand, indifferent moist, so let it be kept till about the middle of February, then sow it under some Wall, on the North or West-side, in some good, fresh, Loomy ground, rather strong than light; if there come a drye Spring or Summer, keep them indifferent moist, and stick some Boughs over them, to shade them from the scorching Sun, [Page 69] especially if they be much exposed to it; keep them clean from weeds there let them stand two Summers, and afterwards you may transplan them into your Nursery, and set them in Rowes, as you are direct­ed of the Walnut and other Trees before. Prune them up to one shoot, unless you find some shoot or shoots that are fit to Lay, and then, if you would increase a Stock, Lay them. This tree is very apt to put forth shoots a little above the ground, and Suckers a little within, so that it is very readily increased by Laying: Lay your Lay­ers betimes, any time between Midsommer and November, as they be strong and fit to Lay: And in a Twelve-months time or little more, they will have drawn Root fit to be transplanted into a Nursery: Thus by seed and Layers you may in a little time encrease enough for a County, which when you come to have great store, you may plant some of your crookedest Layers in your Woods; they will produce a large Stub, strong shoots, grow well almost of any Ground, and are very good Fire-wood.

It is a Tree that loves pruning up well, for it naturally growes ta­per, especially those which come of Seed; but if it shoot much, and thrives apace in your Nursery, then leave some side-boughs to check the Sap▪ lest by forcing it all into the Head, it shoot out so much there, that it make the head too big for the Body, and so (being top­heavy) make the Tree crooked: Now if ever you see your Trees in such a Condition, then immediately cut off the leaning side of the Head, which when it is lightned of its heaviness, and hath not long stood crooked, it will then come straight again; Midsommer time is the time of this pruning, but do not force the Sap too much into the head, lest by high winds you have many of your Heads broke off. But of this I have spoken before.

My ingenious Lord was once too free in pruning up a parcel of those Trees; which I the rather acquaint you with, that you hereafter may avoid the like; for the Ground was fresh and good, so that some by their great Heads lost them, and some grew crooked: But despair not, for if you observe what I have said before to make a crooked Tree straight, you may easily bring them to be straight again, for they na­turally delight to grow as straight as most trees doe; and if the Head should be broken off, (as very seldom it is, because the Bark is so tough) they will yet shoot with such a strong shoot, that they will in a little time make a fine Tree again.

You may (if occasion be) transplant them pretty large, as big as your Legge, but the surest size is about two Inches Diameter, and eight or ten foot high.

[Page 70] But if the Tree was never Removed from the place where it was first sowed, then Remove it the sooner; for if it be great, there's the more danger in Removing it, and the topping of the Roots when removed young, makes it break out near home, with many young feeding Roots like a Maple: Therefore my advice to you that take delight to raise Trees, is, to transplant any sort of Tree while young, and to top the Roots a very little; they will be much the better, and certainer to grow when they are again removed, and will come forward much the better: They that take this Advice, will find the profit of it in Trees, which will the better encourage the practice of it.

They will grow as well on any sort of Ground, as any Tree I know, but they like best a feeding Loomy Ground, which is not too wet, as is before said in Chap. 8. where I have spoke somewhat of this fine Tree, for Walks, Avenues or Lawns; This being a Tree I fancy for the aforesaid uses, before any Tree we have in England, though I know many do not love it that are Planters, because it is not good Tim­ber; and I grant it is not, but to vindicate what I have said of it for Walks, I shall lay down these following Reasons.

1. I doe suppose with my self, that whosoever is a Lover of VValks, will not fell the Timber-trees in a stately VValk, while the Timber is in its prime; for most Trees will continue many years very Ornamental, after they be in their prime, even while they be fit for no use but Fire wood; and why not the Line then for VValks as well as any sort of Timber trees?

2. It will grow as well on different Grounds as any Tree I know, which is a considerable encouragement to the ingenious Planters, to see their Labours prosper.

3. It will grow as great and as high, if kept with pruning up, as most Trees we have: For the Greatness of it, I shall borrow the words of the Learned Dr. Brown, which he writ to Esquire Evelyn, as he hath it in his Discourse of Forrest-trees: Chap. 29. pag. 82. His words are these: An extraordinary Large and Stately Tilia, Linden or Line-tree there groweth at Depenham in Norfolk, ten miles from Norwich, whose Measure is this: The Compass in the least part of the Trunk or Body, about two yards from the Ground, is at least eight yards and a half; about the Root nigh the Earth, sixteen yards in cir­cuit, the heighth to the uppermost Boughs about thirty yards, &c. This is one of the Broad-leaved Lines, which how great and stately they grow, you may observe out of this wise and learned Doctors Dis­course, who commends this Tree with the Epithets of Large and Stately.

[Page 71] 4. It will last sound long, as appeareth by the Greatness of its growing.

5. It is a Tree will soon grow over the places where you cut off side boughs, and is not subject to put forth many.

6. It is a Tree that naturally groweth taper and straight.

7. No Tree keeps such a constant Pyramid-shape as this; the Heads of other Trees growing of several shapes and Forms, though all of one Kind, this keeps its Head as if it were cut, and the Body straight.

8. For Shade few better, having a thick Head, and large Leaves, only it droppeth his Leaves too soon.

9. The Bark of this Tree being tough, keeps its Head from break­ing off by great Winds.

10. It's a Tree that as seldom blowes aside as any Tree whatso­ever, for it's matted Root and Taper-body preserve him upright all his Life-time.

11. The Flowers are beautifull, the scent counted healthfull, and breaketh out strangely on the side of the Leaves, much different from other Flowers of Trees or Plants.

12. The shoots being of a fine red glossie colour, are very pleasing to behold in the Winter-season.

13. It is a Tree that seldom grows hollow in the Body, for it soon overgroweth the wound, and so keeps himself sound, both Body and Limb.

14. It is the best wood for Carving that is known.

15. At last when he is dead, his Bark will make you Mattes and Ropes, usefull for several things.

16. And lastly, its Wood is a good, sweet, free-burning Fire-wood: the Charcoal made of it, is commended before all others for Gunpowder.

Now put all these together, and judge if this be not a fine Tree for VValks; but if you would have them shape themselves finely, set them two rod asunder; if for a shady walk, what distance you please.

I fancy that a single Rowe, to bound a Lawn round, set two or three Rod asunder, would be mighty obliging to the Noblest Sense, for then they would shew themselves more clearly than when set in double Rows to make VValks; or they would shew mighty well set thin on the side­of a Hill, one topping another, with their curious natural shapes. And so adieu my beloved Line-trees.

THE Maple-tree is very plentifull in most places of England where there are any Hedges or VVoods; but as for the Kinds, I know but one sort, though Authors tell you of more.

It is increased, and doth increase it self by Seed and Layers, and from the Roots of Mother Old Trees, and by Suckers, which makes it so plentifull.

The Seeds will lie a year in Ground before they come up, therefore you may order them as is before said of the Ash; you may increase it by Laying (as is directed in Chap. 5.) for to thicken your VVoods or Hedges; but if you let it grow into Trees, it destroyes the VVood under it; for it receives a clammy Honey-dew on its Leaves, which when it is washed off by Rains, and falls upon the Buds of those Trees under it, its Clamminess keeps those Buds from opening, and so by degrees kills all the wood under it: therefore suffer not high Trees or Pollards to grow in your Hedges, but fell them close to the ground, and so it will thicken your Hedge, and not spoyl its Neighbours so much.

You may increase it from the Roots of an older Tree, as is shewed in Chap. 7. It is a good VVood to plant for under-wood in Coppices and VVoods, for it produceth a good shoot, and thickens your VVoods. it loves a dry Ground or Bank best.

THis fine Tree is much out of Favour with a great many, for these Reasons, viz. Because the Leaves falling upon their Walks, turn into Soyl soon, and so spoyl them, breeding Grass, and Weeds.

And also that notwithstanding its fine shade, it is not good to plant [Page 73] them near Dwelling-houses; for the Leaves in Summer-time being sub­ject to catch and hold the Honey-dew, do draw together several sorts of Flies, and (some say) amongst them the Moth: if so, they be not fit to be planted near Houses and Gardens: the same fault hath the King of Trees, the never enough admired Oak, and the Maple and others.

But granting this, yet let me desire those that have Woods and Coppices in Parks, where Deer are especially, to set some of this Tree every Fall, in the open places, and that for these Reasons: First, it is a wood the Deer will not soon harm, then it is a wood that bears Keyes soon, and many, which will fall Early and come up the next Spring; and being armed with a large Leaf, the weeds will not soon choak them: On some Grounds that are dry and light, it groweth fast: It produceth tall, tough and good Timber for several uses: It groweth apace from a Stub, and is good Fire-wood.

It may be raised of Seed, which is best, or by Laying, or by Roots: Sow the Seed (not on too wet or stiffe Ground) as soon as it is Ripe, and the next Spring it will come up; whereby on a little Ground you may raise a great many Plants to set in your Nursery; keeping them clean from weeds by digging and pruning up every year, till you have got them big enough for Walks, VVoods, or what you please. Thus much at this time of the Sycamore, onely remember (as I said before) that it is a good wood to plant in Coppices and Woods.

I Told you but now of the Sycamore being fit to be set in Parks, be­cause Deer do not often Bark them; but of all Trees that I know for that purpose, this is the best; for a Deer will sterve before he will so much as taste the Bark of the Hornbeam, they do not love much the very small tops.

This Tree may be raised of Seed, or by Laying; but by Seed is best, though the young Seedlings be tender. The Seeds may be sown at the time directed for the Ash; for it lieth a year in the Ground before it comes up, and then you must look to keep it well shaded, or else it will sooner be gone than you think for: It naturally loveth to grow on stiffe ground, [Page 74] where it will grow, and bring great Lops to the Owner, when the Tree is but a very Shell, as indeed most Old Trees are hollow within; which I judge not to be the Nature of the Tree so to grow, but the fault of those that look to them; for they have too many Masters which be bad Husbands, and no Friends to this Tree and many others, as the Elm, Ash, &c. who let the Lops be great before they lop them, perswade­ing themselves that they have more great wood, which is most usefull, never considering that great lops do endanger the Life of the Tree, or at best wound it so much, that many Trees decay more yearly in their Bodies, than the yearly lops come to; and so indeed they do provide themselves with more great wood, though it be much to the Owners loss; though this Tree will bear great Lops when there is nothing but a shell of a Tree standing, yet the Ash (if once come to take wet much at the Head) it rarely bears more Lop after that the Body of the Tree decayes: Therefore if once a Tree decayes much at the middle, it will soon be little worth else but for the Fire: But in case you find a Tim­ber tree decay (as is aforesaid) down with it in time, for fear you lose your Timber, and also the Fire-wood be spoyled; but of this I have spoken before, and would also speak more, could I with words but perswade men out of this great Error: But our ordinary Husband-men will vindicate Their Countrey-Husbandry to be better than the next, for indeed Countreys do differ much in the ordering of Trees and Hedges, and they as much condemn ours: for it is as hard to perswade them out of their self-conceited Opinion and Tradition, as it is to make a Jew turn Christian.

This tree makes the very best Hedges of any Tree we have in Eng­land that sheds the leaves, (I mean for Ornament:) for you may keep it in what form you please, and it will grow very thick to the very Ground; Therefore to make a private Walk, or to sence in Avenues, at a con­venient distance, without the bound-Range of Trees, or Walks; or to hedge in Ridings, Causewayes, or to make close Walks or Arbours, this Tree is much to be commended; especially on such ground which it likes: You may be better satisfied about this Tree at Hampton-Court, in his Majesties Garden, which is kept by the ingenious Artist and my good Friend Mr. Tobias Gatts: It is good Fire-wood, and yieldeth good Increase both from Stubs and Pollards.

It encreaseth much by sowing it self, therefore you that love planting get a few into your Plantations, and try whether they will thrive with you or not; which doubtless it will on many Grounds where now it is not, and so would many other Trees doe mighty well in VVoods and Coppices, to thicken them, and make them the more beautifull, [Page 75] especially those that increase from the running Roots, as the Noble Elm, Cherry, Sarvice, Abel, Popler, &c. and some others, for to seed if you have them not, as Ash, Sycamore, Line, Hornbeam, Maple, Quickbeam, &c. and with those which you see thrive best, you may at every Fall furnish your woods where they be thin, and I do assure you it will pay you for your pains with Interest.

THE Quickbeam, VVhitchen, or VVild-ash, though very scarce in the South parts of this Land, is pretty plentifull in some parts of the North, as in Nottingham-shire, &c. and would be there more plen­tifull, were it suffered to grow great, to bear the greater Quantity of Seed; for I think it increaseth (as the Ash doth) onely from seed: It produceth straight, small and long shoots, which in that Countrey they cut off while they are young, to make Goads (as they call them) or Whips to drive their Oxen with, for it is as tough a VVood as most is.

I do ghess the seeds lye a year in the Ground before they come up, I am now about trying to raise some. Let me desire some kind Plant­ers to get some of this VVood into their bounds, where it is not, that it may be tryed whether it will grow in the South or not, as no doubt but it will if you will but trye: I shall say no more of this Tree, be­cause I cannot yet speak much on my own Knowledge.

THis Tree increaseth froom the Roots or Suckers, and for ought I know it may be raised of Seeds; for I do suppose there are Seeds in that which it sheds in the Spring, though I have not yet tryed.

[Page 76] It delights to grow on your hungry Gravel, as it doth about Cashic­bury in several VVods: Therefore you that have barren Ground where your VVoods be, get some sets of this VVood, to help to thicken your VVoods; for though it be one of the worst of VVoods, yet it is very usefull, and the great God hath ordered it to be content­ed with the worst of Grounds; and besides, that it should not be de­spised by his Servants, he hath endowed it with a Faculty of Attract­ing and preparing from the Earth a very Medicinal Liquor, which is both pleasant and healthfull for man; which to take from the Tree, and also to prepare this Water, and to demonstrate what Diseases it is good for, I shall make bold to borrow out of Esquire Evelyns Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 32, &c.

About the beginning of March, with a Chizzel and a Mallet cut a slit, almost as deep as the very Pith, under some Bough or Branch of a well-spreading Birch: Cut it oblique, and not long-wayes, inserting a small Stone or Chip to keep the Lips of the Wound a little open; fasten thereto a Bottle, or some other convenient Vessel appendant; out of this Aperture will extill a limphid and clear water, retaining an obscure smack both of the Taste and Odour of the Tree: thus may you obtain this water. I will present you a Receipt how to make it, as it was sent me by a fair Lady (saith he.)

To every Gallon of Birch-water put a quart of Honey well stilled together, then boyl it almost an hour with a few Cloves, and a little Limon-peel, keeping it well scumm'd; when it is sufficiently boyled, and become cold; adde to it three or four Spoonfulls of good Ale, to make it work, which it will do like New Ale, and when the Yeast begins to settle, bottle it up as you do other winey Liquors, it will in a competent time become a most brisk and spirituous Drink, which is a very powerfull Opener. This Wine may (if you please) be made as successefully with Sugar instead of Honey, lib. 1. to each Gallon of water; or you may dulcifie it with Raisons, and compose a Raison-wine of it. I know not whether the Quantity of the sweet Ingredi­ents might not be somwhat Reduced, and the Operation improved, but I give it as Received.

For Distempers in Man it is good for Cure of the Ptysick, most powerfull for dissolving the Stone in the Bladder, curing (as I am told) Consumptions, and such interiour Diseases as accompany the Stone in the Bladder and Reins: This Liquor is so strong that the common sort of Stone-Bottles cannot preserve the Spirits, so subtile they are and volatile; and yet it is gentle and very harmless in Operation within the Body, and exceedingly sharpens the Appetite being drunk ante [Page 77] Pastum. This from the Learned Author, and thus much of the Birch: And now I proceed.

OF the Kinds there be many, and some very good Fruit, as the Red and VVhite Filberds; the great French Nut, &c. also your wild Nuts do differ much in shape and goodness. My Lord had once a Quantity of very good sorts sent him from beyond Sea, they had a very tender Shell; therefore I took care to raise some of them, and did severall, but when they came to bear, they were no better than our Hedge-nuts.

VVhen they be Ripe I need not tell you, for every Boy can; order them all winter as you are advised to keep your VValnuts, and sowe them at the same time in the Spring; they will grow almost on any Ground, (provided not too wet) but best on your dry ground: there­fore set them on your high and dry Banks, between your Fences, but Early in Winter: if they hold but the first year, they will produce good Stubs; you may increase them by Suckers, or Laying, but the best way is from their Nuts. I would have you to benefit your self by Laying this and other Woods in your Woods, that be thin of wood: I dare assure you that for every Shilling you lay out in this Husbandry, in a few Years time every Shilling shall be paid you yearly, for many years after.

THere may be many sorts of this VVood, but I know but Four; the best is that large, white Popler; a great leaf white on the lower side, it shoots with a strong whitish shoot, which the Dutch call Abele.

[Page 78] The Second is a sort much like to this, both in Leaf and Shoot, which grows in many places of this Land, and is in most places called the white Popler.

The Third is a sort that hath the leaves and shoots more small, and not so white; it groweth in many places, and in most of them is called the Aspen or Asp-tree: These three sorts are to be ordered all as one: the other differs much both in the Nature of growing and ordering: therefore a word or two of these.

I never yet did Raise any of them of Seed, but I do believe they have a Seed in that downy substance they shed in the Spring; they in­crease naturally very much from the Roots, but they may be help'd much by the Rules in the Chapter before, which sheweth you how to raise Trees from the Roots of another Tree; by which Rules, from two of the Abele Trees my Lord had from Holland, I have raised above a hundred: But if you fence in a place round the Tree, to keep Cattel off, and keep down the great weeds a little, they will put forth many young Trees from the Roots of an old one, especially if you prune up, or thin the Heads of any of these sorts, they will then yield the more; but if you do not value your Mother-tree, but desire to get a great stock of young ones, then you may fell the Mother-tree at the ground: and if it be not very young, or old, the Roots will put forth in young Trees, the Quantity of the Body and Head of that Tree: and so will the Elm, Cherry, &c. then how usefull such Trees are to set in the places of VVoods that be thin, I leave you to judge.

Though this Tree is none of the best of VVoods, besides the afore­said Properties, I can satisfie you it will grow and increase on the very worst of your grounds, as well drye as wet.

You must forbear to head any of these three sorts, unless young, or that you leave some young shoots to draw up the sap; except you are minded to destroy the old one you head; for if the Lops be very great it many times kills, or makes the Tree hollow; therefore lop young. Some will tell you they grow of Chips, but that is false, they rarely will grow of Cuttings.

They are best in VVoods, though some advise you to plant them in VValks; but they be not good for walks, for the Suckers they pro­duce from the Roots, will be troublesome: The greater sorts are proper to set on the East, VVest, or North Prospect, at a distance, in or by the side of a wood; for their white Leaves shew finely when the Sun shines upon them, and make fine variety with other Trees that have dark green leaves. I commend them to you for to plant in woods of barren ground; for there they increase much, and yield much wood: [Page 79] And so I leave them, and come to the other, which differeth from these both in Leaf and Shoot, and manner of growing.

This last kind is in most places called the water-Popler; its Leaf is a pale Green, shaped something like the other, but it is not white be­low; the shoot is of a yellowish green, this loves to grow by Rivers sides, or in Ground that is wet, or such as holds water much: There­fore you that have such Grounds, get some of this Tree to set in them: It will grow of Truncheons from two foot long to eight: the first be­ing the best to set for Stubs, the other you may make Pollards of, for it is a good profitable wood, bringing a good Lop in few years, and that on some Grounds better than the Willow.

For your instruction in setting the small setts, see Chap. 6. and for setting those of six, seven, eight or nine foot long, for to make Pollard-trees, keep the lower end of your set, and also the upper, free from cracks, and cut each sloaping off; as for the bigness, let it be about two or three Inches Diameter: If you make your hole with an Iron Crow, make it big enough, that you do not thrust up the Bark when you thrust them into the hole; or if you make them with a Stake, ob­serve the same; but if you fear the Bark to part from the wood, tie it about the lower end with a piece of Wier, &c. set them about one foot and a half deep; if great, deeper; or if you have a quantity to set, and would set them well, then have an Auger made, somewhat like to a Pumps, a little bigger than your sets, so may you set your sets in, and ram the Earth close to them; but however you set them, be sure to Ramme the Earth close to them: I preferre the beginning of Winter for the best season, unless your Ground be very wet, then deferre it till February.

But if you have ground that is wet and barren, and that you are minded to plant, make Dreins two spade-deep, and a yard wide, and at every two yards asunder cast up the Earth upon the two yards of ground you left, and sow it the first year with Oats, to mellow the Ground, which may pay a good part of your Charge, if not all; the next Winter set it with these sorts of woods, Water-popler and others, Alder, Willow, Withy, Sallows, &c. and in four or five years after you may have a good Fall of wood, so may you have every five or six year after, for many years.

To encourage you, Esquire Evelin tells you of an Abele that did shoot in one year seventeen foot in length, and as thick as your VVrist; and also informs you of some VVillowes that have shot no less than twelve foot in one year. Therefore to those Gentlemen that have wet or moorish Ground, which is bad and will not grase well, do I di­rect [Page 80] this good Husbandry, especially where wood is scarce, and fells well: The Charge to do this will not be great; and to satisfie you the more, I shall here shew you, if you dig two spade deep, then there will be but one third part of ground to dig; that is, to dig your Trenches one yard wide, and leave two yards there to lay the Earth, and to sow one year, or to set the sets as soon as you have made the ground ready.

160 Rod in one Acre, divided by 3 gives one 3 d. of 160, [...] which is 53 and ⅓. This 53 doubled (neglecting the ⅓ as needless in such a business) is 106; Now if I allow 3 d. a Rod for one spade-deep, that is 6 d. for two; and then 2 d. a Rod for setting, is 8 pence the Rod, leaving the Sets out, and not counting them, because I do not know the scarceness or plentifulness of them where you intend to plant, though they will cost but little: Now if I divide 106 by 2, being 2 Six pences [...] is one Shilling, it gives 53 s. and then divide 106 by 6, being 6 Two pences makes One shilling is 17 s. 8. d. By this it appeareth, that if the Ground be planted this way, having the Trenches digged two foot deep, which is the best way to plant any sort of Ground if the soyl be shal­low, (as I shall shew fuller hereafter) the Charge (excepting the Sets) is but 3 l. 10 s. 8 d. where men can dig such ground for 3 d. the Rod.

But if the Ground be not very wet, or the Soyls surface very shal­low, then may you dig one yard, and leave another, throwing half your Earth on one side, and half on the other: Suppose you were to plant an Acre of Ground this way, there will not be half digged, especially if the ground be an oblong square; but if you count it at half, that is 80 Rod, which at the same price, 3 d. the Rod, is 20 s. for if you di­vide 80 Three-pences by Four, (the Thirds in a Shilling) the [...] Quotient gives 20: then 80 Two-pences for setting is 13 s. 4 d. for if you divide 80 by 6, (the Two-pences in one Shil­ling) it gives 13 in the Quotient and 2 over, which 2 Two-pences is 4 d. that is then 13 s. 4 d. and 20 s. is one pound 13 s. 4 d. charge. Yet as I told you, the more oblong the piece is, it will cost somewhat the less, provided you divide your ground into yards, or as near it as you can, and leave a yard next the side where you begin, and one at the side where you end.

Having shewed you the Charge, or pretty near it, and also two [Page 81] wayes how to prepare your ground, you may set Truncheons of VVa­ter-popler, all sorts of Sallowes, Alder, VVillowes, Oziers, &c. of Roots, Abele, Popler, and if not too wet, Elm, Ash, &c. Let none of these soft woods stand too long unlopt if Pollards, or unfelled if Stubs, for the Reasons before mentioned. Of all the Poplers, VVa­ter-popler indures best lopping when great, then the Abele, the Asp worst when the boughs be great: This VVater-popler doth not in­crease of a Runner as the other doth; I suppose this is the same which some call the Black-popler: It growes in several places about Ware, by their Ditch-sides, and brings them good profit; and therefore you that have wet grounds get some of this to set by your Ditches, one Rowe of this, and one of VVillowes; for if you set one of these worth a half-penny, if they grow they will bring you that yearly for twenty years or more. Prune all soft woods at the latter end of VVinter, &c.

THis Tree may be raised of Truncheons as the other I last writ of; some say of Seeds, but if you cut them about two foot and a half long, and set them two foot in the ground, if the ground be proper for them they will certainly grow, and yield you good Profit. They love a wet moorish ground, and will not grow on dry ground; they will grow well on your boggy Grounds, which seldom yield good Grass.

Some advise you to fell them every third or fourth year, which is good Counsel: but do not deferre above five or six years, the woun­ded place will be too great if you stay longer, and with wet will grow hollow (if it be great) before it can overgrow the wound. As for soft VVoods, or Aquatick Trees, fell or lop none till to wards the Spring, viz. February is the best Season, and the Moon encreasing.

THE Withy doth best grow on ground that is not very moyst, but yet the moysture must not be far from him; as on the weeping side of a Hill, where some Spring breaks out, or on Banks by Rivers or Ditches sides, or on Banks in your Moorish ground, &c.

The VVillow loves to grow on such like ground; both this and the former are set in such places as the Water-popler is, and of such sets as it is; to make Pollard trees, see the Chapt. before of the Water-popler, and Chap. 6. which teacheth how to set all sorts of Cuttings; Remember to keep them well fenced for two or three years, and to cut off all the side-shoots, which they will be subject to put out below the Head, and thin the head as you see it convenient, leaving not above six or eight for Arms; so doing will make the body of your Tree swell, and lay hold on the Ground the better.

And as for the variety of Kinds of these and the following, I shall not trouble my self to inquire after; for I intend only to shew you how to Raise them, not to describe them, and if you know how to raise some, you may then soon be able to raise them all: But there is one sort more which is called the smelling VVillow, which deserves to be ta­ken notice of; it shoots a great shoot, bears fine, broad, shining, green Leaves, and will grow on most Grounds that are not too drye. It bears a sweet beautifull Flower, and worthy to be set in Orchards: You that have Rivers run by your Orchards plant some of this, if you have not, yet if your ground be moist, and pretty good, it will grow mightily, and yield Ornament and Profit.

It is easily increased of Cuttings, which if set as is shewed in Chap. 6. will grow every one: Only mind if your Ground have a dry Bot­tom, then set them on the North side of a wall; beside the Beauty and Smell, the industrious Bees love it much: It is as easily increased as any Sallow, and bears as good a Lop, then endeavour to make it as common. From one small Plant I have Raised some hundreds, and have set several in our VVood-walks at Cashiobury, where they grow well notwithstanding our dry Ground, but they were Rooted before [Page 83] I set them there: I commend the like Husbandry to the Lovers of Planting: And to those that are Lovers of that busie Martial Creature, for it's an Early Relief to them. It may also be very plentifully in­creased by Laying, for if it be but covered with ground, it will Root.

Of Sallows there be three common sorts; all of them love a moist Ground, but that with the Round Leaf will grow on Banks, as in Hedges; for if you set them for Stakes they will take root: And though they be no very good Fence, yet they will yield good Profit: The two other grow best on Moorish ground, and there will yield great shoots, they will grow of Cuttings much, and may be increased well by Laying; both which wayes you may thicken your VVoods very much: but then you must keep out Cattel, especially all Deer, for two or three years and above. They may be raised by seed, as the Elm is, some years, for the seed is not all years good with us, no more is the Elm and Line: I have raised many of them of seeds in the downy substance, but they be so easily increased by Cuttings and Lay­ing, that you need not trouble your self to raise them of seed. It is as profitable a wood for under-wood in Woods, as any you can set in them for Fire, producing strong and great shoots: Therefore, where you stock up Trees in your Woods, set two or three Sallow Trun­cheons with some other VVood that is subject to run, as Elm, Cherry, Abele, &c. so may you have a thin wood made a thick good wood; or if you have a Ground that is Moorish, and will not yield good Grass, then plant (as is before shewed) of the Water-popler, and it will yield you quick and great Profit.

If you would see more largely of these Sallowes, &c. see Esquire Evelyns 19 th Chapt. He tells you, you may graft Figs and Mulberries on them, and that they will thrive exceedingly: The first is true, you may graft on them; but you had best trye the other, for I fear 'tis bor­rowed from Pliny, &c. but I forbear.

Of Oziers there are several sorts, and are all raised of Truncheons, as the Sallow: They love a moister and more Moorish ground than the Sallow or Willow. The Basket-makers know best the time to fell them, which may be done any time in Winter, they must be kept well fenced from Cattel, and thus I shall conclude of the Aquatick Trees.

Only let me desire all those that have Moorish ground, and such as yields little Profit, (especially where wood is scarce,) but to make use of these sure Directions, and I do engage you a great and certain Profit.

THese stately Trees want more Respect with us than they have: And there are three things which make it so: The first is Igno­rance in planting them; and that is, they miss the right Time or Sea­son of the Year to set them, planting them when other Trees are planted, as from November to March, which is the very worst time in the Year; but the best time to Remove these or most sorts of Greens, is, from mid- March to the latter end, or from mid- August to the last, which are the very best times, unless for tender Greens, and I shall not so much as name any of them.

As to the Ground, they love not Dung, but a fresh gravelly Soyl mixed with Loom, also mind but the Roots, and they will tell you, that these sorts of Trees must not be set too deep, therefore take heed you commit not that fault to them; for if you look into Gerrards Herbal, with Johnsons Additions to it, pag. 1364. you are there in­formed by that laborious Author, that Firres grow on the tops of Rocks in great plenty, and also large Trees in the cold Countreys of Norway, &c. and of Pines that grow in the cold Countreys beyond Denmark, as in Russia, &c. then certainly they may and will grow here in England very well, if you will but mind to set and preserve them.

Then a second Reason why men do raise but few of these, and plant but few, may be because they love them not; and it is with other men, because they many times die, or do not grow well with them, and this makes them not fancy them: But such Men want good In­structions, and I hope I shall give them some that will make them again in Charity with these fine Trees; but others there be that have ground and fit places to plant Trees in, but mind them not; these men do not love Trees, no nor themselves, nor their Posterity.

The third great hinderance of planting these and other Trees is, there are many men that love planting and improving of Trees, but are hin­dered by not having ground of their own convenient to plant in, and if they Nurse up or plant Trees for their Landlords, they many times meet with but small encouragement for so doing; for many times they [Page 85] be turned out of their Farm before they come to perfection, or if there be any that are come to be fit to fell, many times another man shall have them as cheap as he that Nursed them up in his Hedge-Rows, &c. or his Predecessors.

But I could and do wish that Owners would encourage their Te­nants, by allowing them so much Money for every Fruit-tree, and so much for every Forrest-tree they plant in their Grounds, and look to them well till they be past Cattles spoyling them; this would help both the Owner and his Tenant, and many a good Tree might be in waste places where now none is; this would make the Farm much better, and pleasanter, and so we might have more plenty of Fruit and Tim­ber, and Knowledge in Planting would be greatly improved.

Now suppose you should plant on good Land, and in open Fields, you would be no Loser by it: As if you should plant Oak, Ash, or Elm, in Pasture-ground, at three or four Rod asunder, they would do your Land no harm, nor would you lose any ground, save only just where the Trees stand; now it must be a good Tree that takes up one yard square, nay the Leaves and Shade may do your Cattel as much good as may countervail the loss of that Land; as if your Land be worth 20 s. an Acre, that is not a Penny a Yard, as here I shall shew; 160 Rod square makes an Acre, and five yards and a half square is a Rod.

You see that in one Rod square there are 30 yards and a quarter; for the Decimal Fraction 25 is ¼ of a 100; or thus, 5 times 5 is 25, and 5 halfs and 5 halfs make 5 whole Rod, and a half and a half make but ¼, which is 30 yards and a quarter.

Here you see that 4840 (the yards in one Acre) divided by 12, (the Pence in a Shilling) gives 403 shillings, and 4 remain, that is, one Acre at a Penny a yard comes to 20 l. 3 s. 4 d. But it may be sixty years before a Tree takes up so much ground, then at half that Age it takes up but half so much ground, then 60 half-pence is but 2 s. 6 d. and your Tree at that Age, and on such Land, may be worth [Page 86] 30 s. or more, which is Profit and Pleasure, &c to the Planter.

But to our business, Johnson tells you of some ten sorts of Pines, but I know but two or three in England; one is common, and is raised of the Seed sown in good ground, and in the shade, in the Month of February: If it be frosty put it into Earth or Sand, and keep it in the house till the weather be seasonable; they will not grow of Cuttings, nor Laying, well; they be bad to be Removed when old, because the Roots run far from the Body in few years, and if broke or cut off, they will not readily break out at sides and ends; therefore Remove them young, at two or three years old, and at the times beforesaid, and then you may expect glorious stately Trees. None of all our green Trees in England may compare with them: Prune them as the Firre: They be fine to set round a Garden, or Bowling-green, for the Leaves will not do any harm.

Of Firre-trees we have two sorts, they be easily Raised of Seeds sown as the Pine; one sort will grow of Laying, or of Slips set about Bartholomewtide; but then you must cut them one Inch or two from the Body, and cut that Stump close off the March following; and cut all other Boughts that be needfull at that time, and you need not fear hurt­ing your Tree, though my French Curate be against it.

The best way to keep them is in Stories, about a yard between one another, but do not cut their Ends as some doe, neither let them grow thick on a heap, but if you keep them in Stories they will grow taper, and you may take off some when you see Cause, and so help them up to a great height, and straight as an Arrow, for they naturally grow in a good shape.

Lay the Clogs before the fire, and they will gape, so may you take out the Seeds the better. Pliny calls one sort of Pine, the Pinaster; Johnsons Herbal, pag. 1350.

THere be a great many more Trees, some of which shed their Leaves, and some keep them all the year besides; those I have spoken of before, but these be the most of our Forrest-trees; and as for those that doe belong to the Garden, I shall not so much as mention them.

[Page 87] The Yew-tree is produced of Seeds, rub the fleshy substance off, then dry them, and when they be dry, put them in sand a little moist, in a Pot or Tub; let this be done any time before Christmas: Keep them in house all Winter, and under some North-wall abroad all Summer; the Spring come Twelve-month after you put them in Sand, sowe them on a Bed; the ground not too stiffe, keep them clean, and prick them out of that Bed into your Nursery, when they have stood two or three years there, you may bring them to what shape you please: It is a fine Tree and worthy to be more increased.

Holly may be raised of the Berries, as the Yew, or by Laying; it loves a Gravelly-ground, as most of our Forrest-greens doe; it is a curious Tree for Hedges, and will grow under the dropping of great Trees: It well deserves your love, yet is somewhat ticklish to remove, but the best time is before Michaelmas; if your Ground be stiffe and cold, mix it with Gravel, but no Dung.

Box the English and Edged, &c. do grow well of Slips, set about the latter end of August, or in March: It is very pleasant in green Groves, and in Wildernesses, though it hath a bad smell after Snow.

Juniper is raised of the Berries; it is ticklish to Remove, it is a pretty Plant for the aforesaid places; the Berries are very wholsome; the Wood burnt yields a wholsome and pleasant Persume, so doth the Plant in the Spring.

Bayes is increased plentifully of Suckers; or you may raise them of their Berries: They love the shade, and are fit to be set in green Groves.

Laurel, or Cherry-bay is increased by Cuttings set about Bartholo­mewtide, and in the shade best, or by the Cherries. It is a glorious Tree for Standards on most Grounds, but on our coldest and openest it holds out our hard Winters best: It may be kept with a clear stem two or three foot high, and let the Head be kept round, so that if you have a Row of them, the Trees all of a height and bigness, and the Heads all of a shape, no Tree is more pleasant: It is fit for Groves, Wildernesses, Hedges, &c. It will grow well on any ground, threfore make use of this beautifull Tree.

FIrst as to the Ground, your Ground that hath been fed for many years, Winter and Summer, as your common Pasture-ground, or the like, such Ground (if it be any thing good) is the Best: The next is your Meadow-ground; and then your plowed Land, if your Land be of Soyl alike. Thus I preferre them. Several Reasons might be given for this, but I shall instance onely in these few:

As namely, your Ground that is constantly fed, hath likewise con­stantly a supply of Cattels Dung and Urine, with the variety of Kinds, which addes much to the strength of the ground: and likewise your Pasture-ground, though it abound with great variety of Herbs or Grass, according to the Nature of the Ground, as also your Meadow-ground doth; yet your Pasture-ground hath not only a constant supply of Soyl by one sort of Cattel or other, but the Grass which growes on it, doth seldom run to flower or seed; which when they doe, they draw forth much more of the Salt or Spirit or strength of the Earth, as we find the Herbs or Grass on Meadow-grounds most commonly doe. Therefore I judge your Commons the best; and both common Field Ground and Meadow better than constant plowed Land; for that being kept with plowing to prevent what naturally it would produce, this makes the Ground the Better; for 'tis certain, that where your Houses stand, or High-wayes are, there the Earth is full of Salt and Spirit, or the Life of Plants; not only because there is often some Assistance of Soyl, which I confess makes it much Richer, but also because it cannot pro­duce those Plants which naturally it would, were it not Restrained; For still it receives a constant supply from Nature, and as the Holy Scripture saith, the Almighty causeth the Sun to shine on the Ʋnjust as well as the Just, so also hath the foresaid Earth the secret Influence of [Page 89] the Heavens, as well as any other, unless Accidentally prevented; but this by the way.

Now as for your plowed Land, 'tis granted to be much better for plowing; but this being sowen with Annual Grain, very much draw­eth out the strength of the Earth; for I judge that your Annuals are much more drawing Plants than those which will last several years, it being in my Judgement with your Annual Plants, as it is with a man which hireth a House for a Year, when his year is out, he knowing he must remove, cleareth the House, especially of his own; when as your Durable Vegetable, (like a man whose house is his own) is fa­vourable to its situation, having a kind of secret Knowledge (as I may say) that there they and theirs may continue many years.

If this be understood, I hope you then will say with me, that your common Pasture is best to plant on; next to that, Meadow, then plowed Land; that is, if all three be of equal goodness and soyl.

TO tell some men of planting of Woods, is very needless; for there are too many men more inclined to stock up than to plant them; but I suppose the greater sort of Men, and I am sure the best sort, are more inclined to preserve and plant, than to destroy and stock them up. To those then that love either their Countrey or themselves, or espe­cially their Posterity, and have any kindness for stately Forrest-trees, do I give this Advice.

First, Let the Ground be of what Soyl soever, be sure to plant most of such Trees as will grow best on that Soyl; As if it be Gravel, then Beech, Holly, Hasel, &c. if mixt with Loom, then Oak, Ash, or Elm, &c. if stiffe, then Ash, Hornbeam, Sycomore, &c. if a light Loom, then most sorts; and withall, have an eye to the adjacent Trees, and which sort soever you see thrive best, be sure to furnish your Ground with store of them.

Secondly, If your Ground be moyst, then set in good store of the Cuttings of Alder, Willow, Sallow, especially the two last on any [Page 90] Ground; for if there comes a wet Spring, or a moyst Summer, many of them will grow, and produce good under-wood, if set as is directed in the 26 th. or 27 th. Chapters. Though the Ground be drye, and a Gravel-Bottom, yet they will thrive and produce good shoots in a little time, as I have found true at Cashiobury, &c.

Thirdly, If you be minded to sow seeds, then you must prepare your Ground with a good Tillage before you sow your seed, as much as you doe for sowing of Barley; and having all your Seeds ready pre­pared (by being kept some time in a House till they be fit to spear, or speared a little) then about the beginning of February sow them: The particular Chapter of each Kind will tell you how long it is before they will spear: If you plow your Ground into great Ridges, it will make the Earth lie the thicker on the top of each Ridge, and there the Roots will have the more depth to search for Nourishment, and the Furrowes will in little time be filled up with Leaves, which when rotten, will lead the Roots from one Ridge to another.

If your Ground be very drye, then plow your Ridges cross the descent of the Hills, not to drayn the water off, but to keep it on your Ground; and if your Ground be very wet, then the contrary.

But be mindfull to sow most of those seeds your Ground is most na­turally for. The most of these seeds following may be sown on your Ground: Oaks, Ash, Beech, Sycomore, Hornbeam, Crab or Apple, Cherry, Walnuts, Chesnuts, Holly, Hasel-nuts, Maple, Sarvice, &c. Which of these you find are not Natural for your Ground, neglect them. Some do sow their Seeds with a Crop of Barley, but the season of sowing of Barley is too late for your seeds, if they be prepared be­fore-hand; but if you will be so saving as to have a Crop of that Tillage, then sow your seeds with Oats, for they may be sown with the season of your seeds: Do not sow your Oats too thick, and they may do well; but the best way for your seeds, is to sow them without any Crop of Corn.

Fourthly, If you are minded to have a Wood soon, then plant it with Setts, and if your Ground be a good Natural Ground for Trees, then you may make only holes two foot wide, and as much deep, and about half a Rod asunder, so there will be four holes in every Rod square. But for fear my Reader should be at a stand here, and ask me how four Trees may stand in a Rod square, or four holes made in a Rod square, and yet the Middles be each half a Rod, or eight foot and ¼ asunder, I shall here satisfie him by Example; and it shall be of a supposed piece of Ground three Rod square, you may make your holes square if you please. (See Figure 1.)

[Page 91] This is much like to that Question, Whether is half a [...] Foot square, or half a square Foot, most? When as I have heard some say, they were both alike, but it was their Mistake.

For, ½ a Foot square is only 6 Inches every way, that is, 6 times 6 is 36, and 6 times 36 is 216 Inches; when as half a square Foot is the half of a Cubical square foot, the number being 12 the square Root is 144, for 12 times 12 makes 144, and 12 times 144 makes 1728, the Cube, Now the half of 1728 is 864, which is half of a square Foot, then if you divide 864 by 216, you will find 4 for the Quotient, so that half a Foot square is but ¼ of half a square foot. This I have demonstrated as plain as I can, that I might be understood by every Countrey-ca­pacity.

Now if you were to plant one Acre of Ground after the aforesaid manner, the Charge would be as followeth: If it be a good digging ground, you may have 20 holes made for 12 d. two foot wide, and two foot deep; so there would be four times 160 holes, which is 640 holes, at 20 for 12 d. that is 32 s. and [...] then I allow for every hole 2 Setts, so then it will take 1280 Setts, which will cost you together about 4 d. the 120. of any sorts of wood, which comes to about 3 s. 6 d. then for every hole 2 Sallow or Willow Cuttings 3. s. then 5 men to set them 6 s. and then Keyes and Seeds to sow among your Setts next Spring, 5 s. 6 d.

So that the Charge of one Acre of Ground planted this way, will cost you about 2 l. 10 s. where Work-men and Sets may be had at such a price; the Spring after, I advise to sow Acorns, Sycamore-Keyes, Apple and Crab-stampings, &c. Let this sowing be done so oft as you [Page 92] find Stampings and Keyes to be had, till you find your Wood very thick. I did sow all the Stampings of Apples and Crabs at Cashiobury among our young Woods which I had set, and the Ground not pro­ducing a strong Grass to choak them, they came up thick, and did well: But take care you let them not lye too thick long, for if you doe, the stampings will heat, and kill the Kernels; sow them there­fore as soon as they be pressed, or else lay them thin, or keep them parted with dry straw.

But if your ground be bad, and a shallow Soyl, or that you would help an indifferent ground, and are willing to be at some more Charge to do it, then do thus, which in small time will pay you or yours well for your Charges.

Observe which is the Best way to lay out your ground, and then divide it into four yards distance at both ends, by little stakes, and make Rowes of stakes by setting up some few between the two at each end, which are only to direct you to lay your work straight, by plow­ing one yard of each side your Stakes: If your Ground be Green-sorde, then plow it as is aforesaid, which will make the better for the Roots of your Trees to run in.

Thus having plowed two yards, and left two yards unplowed all over your Ground, a little before the season for planting, and when the season for setting is come, (that is, as soon as most of the Leaves are off,) having prepared Sets and Work-men, let them dig up the two yards that are unplow'd, laying one half of that Earth upon one of the plowed pieces, and the other half upon the other; and as you lay up that Earth upon the plowed pieces, there set your Setts about a yard one from another, with store of Sallow-Cuttings with them, digging that ground which you lay on your plow'd Ground a good spade-deep, and then it will be near a foot thick to set your Setts in. Thus goe from open (that is, unplow'd) to open, untill you have set all the plow'd pieces in your Ground: One man having the Setts ready, will set them as fast as four men shall dig, that is, two men on each side the Beds or Ridges, one a little before the other, so finish Bed after Bed till you have gone over and finished the whole Ground which you designed to plant that Winter; and endeavour to get all your planting done by the latter end of January, or beginning of February; for this Reason, that is, having provided Keyes, Nuts and Seeds, as is before directed, (and is in each particular Chapter more fully discorsed) about that time sow them, Viz. about the beginning of February, un­less it be a Frosty season, for then you must stay a little longer; so sow [Page 93] all your Beds over with seed, and cover them a little with the shovel­ings of some neighbouring Ditch.

In doing thus, you may be certain of a good thriving Wood in a little time, though the ground you plant on be (almost) never so bad. This I doe suppose to be as good a way as most are for planting of Woods.

Therefore, according to the Latine Proverb, Serere ne dubites, Doubt not to plant; and I wish I could perswade Noble-men and Gentlemen that have Ground that is not very good for Corn or Grass, to plant it with Wood; especially in those Countreys where wood is scarce: I dare insure them, that it would be to them or their Succes­sors a very great benefit, and also a great Ornament to their Naked Grounds.

Now I shall endeavour as near as I can, to give you an Accompt what the Charge of this may be; which, did I but know your Ground, and what wages your Work-men in such places have for one dayes work, I could then do more exactly.

But we will suppose the Ground to be a good digging Ground, that may be afforded to be digged and laid up for 4 d. the Rod-square, and our Example shall be of one Acre of Ground, of which you may well perceive by what is before shewed, there will be but one half plowed, and that half planted.

First then, for a good deep plowing of half an Acre of Ground 4 s.

Secondly, For half an Acre of Ground digging, at 4 d. [...] the Rod, (for if 160 Rod make one Acre, then 80 Rod is half an Acre, and then 80 Groats for the digging,) comes to 1 l. 6 s. 8 d.

Thirdly, If every Four men must have one man to st to them, then there must be near one fourth part more for him, which one fourth is 6 s. 8 d.

Fourthly, If we allow for every yard square in this half Acre, one good Set, besides Truncheons of Sallow and Willow, &c.

The Number of yards in a superficial Rod square is 30 and ¼.

[Page 94] The number of superficial sq. Rods in one Acre 160.

The number of sq. yards in one Acre, or 160 Rod, 4840. Or if you would work this Question by the Line of Numbers, and your Compasses, set one point on one; Extend to 5 and ½, the same will reach from 5 and ½ to 30 and ¼.

Secondly, Extend your Compass from one to 30 and ¼, the same will reach from 160 to 4840: Thus you may prove your work by two turns of your Compasses.

Now finding 4840 yards in one Acre of ground, and for every yard one Set, at 120 for 4 d. comes to Forty Groats, and Forty over (which is 13 s. 5 d. 1 q. and ⅓ of q. for forty Groats is 13 s. 4 d.) then to know what the odde Forty come to, the Rule ranks it self thus: If 120 cost 4 d. or 16 q. what then will 40 cost.

So you see that these 40 will cost 5 q. and 40 over, and if you di­vide this 120 by 40, there then will be 3 in the Quotient, which shew­eth that 40 is ⅓ of 120: So that 4840 Sets at 120 for 4 d. will cost thirteen Shillings five pence one farthing, and one third part of a far­thing:

For Truncheons of Sallow and Willow 3 s. and for Seed 10 s.

[Page 95] Thus have I shewed some wayes for the planting of Woods, and also what Charge it will cost you, though I have spoke of the lowest Rates that good digging Ground can be done at; and where men work for 10 d. per day, yet if you love planting, and your Ground be a bad Ground to dig, (as a Gravel or stiffe Clay,) and that your Sets be scarce, or that you be minded to plant more in your Ground (which will be the better) then if you allow as much more to each Acre, the Charge may be computed accordingly, and you will find it not to be great.

There are more wayes to plant Woods, but these I take to be the best; or thus, instead of making your Holes Round, you may make them a long square, and the holes will be the easier to make after this way. (See Fig. 2.)

This that hath been said, I hope will be some satisfaction to those that love planting of Woods, and are to seek in the wayes; which if it be, I then shall be well satisfied, for my design is a General more than a Particular Good.

Now having finished your Wood, take care to keep it well fenced from Cattel of all sorts, and when it is about seven or eight years growth, then fell it, pruning up those to a head you are minded to leave for Standards, leaving half as many more as need to stand, for Timber-trees, as Oak, Ash, Elm, Beech, &c. felling the rest at the Ground, not flat off, but well sloped up; And if you have Popler, Abele, Cherry, Elm, Sarvice, &c. they will spring much from the Roots, and thicken your Woods; if not, set some in.

THere are and may be made many sorts of Hedges of one parti­cular sort of Wood alone, some for Ornament only, some for Ornament and Profit, and some for Ornament, Profit and a Fence. Juniper I take to be one of the best for to make a low Hedge, of any Plant or Tree we have growing in England; for it growes naturally very thick, is a slow grower, and hath alwayes a fine fresh green [Page 96] Colour, and the severest of our hard Winters will not make it change his Countenance; I confess it is something ticklish to be Removed, for its being not used to stirre far from home makes it many times lose its way, and its Life too, if led far from its native place, at un­seasonable times, or by an ignorant Guide, and put into such an Ha­bitation as is not suitable for it to Live in. I have with good success removed it above Thirty miles, namely, from beyond Cashiobury to Little-Hadham; there I made my Ground (notwithstanding it was naturally a stiffe Clay) by mixing it well with Gravel and Sand: I Re­moved it a little after Bartholomewtide, and I did not lose one Plant in ten, but they do flourish in two little Hedges most gallantly.

I shall not speak of that most healthfull Aromatick Seed which it beareth, nor of the use of this Cedar; but if you would be further satisfied, see Esquire Evelins Discourse of Forrest-trees, or any Her­bal. I have not as yet raised any of it of Seed, but I am now making a tryal, which if they once come to endure Removing while young, I doubt not but then they will be better to Remove when old.

Holly makes a most stately and beautifull Hedge; and had we but store of the White-berried Holly to mix in the Hedge with the Red, it would make it the more Ornamental. Its Ground that it most de­lights to grow on, is, drye and gravelly: See more in the Chapter of Holly: Or had we but store of the strip't to make Hedges with, it would be very Noble indeed.

Hornbeam may be kept in a good shape for a high Hedge, and very thick, even to the ground. It is (alone) one of the very best home­bred natural Forrest-trees that shed the Leaf, to make a Hedge of; and is senceable, unless against the rudest sort of Cattel.

Box maketh a good Hedge, and lasting; I mean the English, though the others are pretty for Hedges, both the Gilded, and the Dwarf; but these two being not proper to name, or to discourse of among Forrest-trees: I shall only name them and many other sorts, and so pass forward.

Laurel, (as we call it,) or Bay-Cherry, makes a good Hedge, and if well kept, very fine Standards. Hard Winters do pierce it on some Grounds, but on most it is durable; it is easie to increase, and will grow well on most Grounds; Keep it but down, and it will grow strong below, and thick, and then make a very fine Hedge.

Arbutus, or Strawberry-tree is a Curious Plant for a Hedge, onely it is very tender, especially while young; for, the Leaves being con­stant whilest Life lasteth, and of a fair Green, finely dented about the Edges, and its pretty white Flower in Summer, with its Strawberry [Page 97] on, the beginning of Winter, all together adde a great deal of grace to this Plant.

Cypress would make fine Hedges, but for two faults; for first, in in some Grounds it is tender, and will not abide our hard Winters. And Secondly, it doth not love to be headed, for that makes it still more tender: Cut it not late in Summer.

Mezereon or Dwarf-bay, both the Red and White together make a pretty low Hedge, and shew very beautifully Early in the Spring.

Alaternus or Ever green Privet makes a fine thick green hedge, it would be supported with a Frame, especially while 'tis young.

Pyracantha or prickly Corall makes a good thick Hedge, and a very fine shew when it is full of its fine Red berryes, which appear like Beads of Red Corall among the dark green Leaves. It likes our Entertainment so well, that it will grow well on most Grounds; our Winters disturb it not, and 'tis very easie to be multiplyed or increased by Laying or Cuttings.

They that have store of Ground, and are Lovers of Plants, I hope will not be without these few named, and many more that will be very acceptable; but they be not some of them so proper for Hedges: Ma­ny more there be that would make very fine Hedges for pleasure, if well kept, as the double-blossom Cherry, the Laurus, Tinus or wild Bay, Primme, Savin, &c.

These few are only for Ornament, and make (any of them) fine Hedges alone, or you may mix them with Judgement, and they will then be very pleasant.

Now I shall shew you a few of those that are for profit and Ornament; such are the Summer-Pears on Quince-stocks; for that makes them the more Dwarfish; Cherries make a fine Hedge, but especially the small-leaved, as the several sorts of Flanders, great Bearers, &c.

Plumbs, Quinces, Codlins, Barberries, &c. all these make fine Hedges, but must have Supporters: In the three last there is this fault, that the better they be kept, I mean the handsomer, the worse they will bear. But I am got two steps too far into the Garden, and now I shall give you an Accompt of such as are proper to fence in your VVoods, Orchards, &c. which is the scope of my Discourse; for such are both profitable and pleasant, though not so Ornamental as the other before; and if you would make a Fence of one particular sort of Wood, the very best is your White-bush, or White-thorn.

Your Crab-stocks make also a stout strong Fence; and if you leave at every twenty foot one to run up, keeping it with pruning till it is [Page 98] five or six foot high, and then graft it with Red strakes or other good Syder-fruit, such a Hedge would be very pleasant and profitable: You may so order your Stock and Tree whilest they be young, that by pruning you may have the head of your Tree to hang into your Ground, a little over your Hedge: Let me desire you to make such a Hedge where you have occasion to make one: As for your Stocks they are as easie to raise as Barley, and they are as certain to grow on most sorts of Ground, as any one wood I know.

For common and publick Fences there is none to compare with these two, for certainty of growing, for a thick, strong, and an armed Fence.

Black-bush makes a good strong Fence, but it hath one Inconveni­ence, that is, it will not keep within its bounds, but will run very much into your ground, and there be very troublesome to keep out: Therefore if your Fence be for Wood, it may do well, for the Reason aforesaid: Also when you plash it, it will often be ready to die, by Reason that it shoots so much from the Root.

Thus have I shewed you some sorts of Woods to make your Hedges with, I shall now give you some Directions how to make them; and here observe that for all those which are for Ornament only: You must prepare a Border by good digging and clean picking it from weeds, adding some good Natural Earth, such as the Kinds you set do most naturally grow in, which let be well prepared against the season for planting, and then make use of your time: The greatest sort may be set about a yard one from another, such as your Holly, Lau­rel, &c. the other about two foot or less, such as your Juniper, Mezereon, &c. Let this be the most, but if you have store of Plants, set them thicker, be sparing in heading most sorts of Greens.

For those that are for Ornament and Profit, the Ground must be made good, trenched deep, and mixt well with Dung; they may be set about six foot asunder. You may make very curious Hedges of Pears, Cherries, &c. But I am too far got into the Orchard or Gar­den; I must retreat to my Forrest-trees, to shelter me from the Gar­diners Anger.

Of those sorts that are for Ornament, Profit, and for Fence, I have told you that there are two peculiar sorts, viz. the White-thorn and the Crab; which are indeed the most proper to fence in our Forrest-trees, and woods, of any I know. I know most Hedges, which are mixed with many sorts of wood, are apt to come too fast, without planting Sets of White-thorn, which in most places are plentifull to be [Page 99] had; bur if you would Raise them of Haws, order them as is shewed of the Cherry or Yew-berries.

Now to Raise your Crab or Apple-stocks, (though the Crab-stocks are better than your Apple-stocks, for the Crab grows more rugged, strong, and is more lasting, but Stocks raised of Apple-kernels will do well) let your Ground be well prepared by Digging, and picking it clean from weeds; mix it with some good rotten Dung, then when the time is, that they beat their Crabs for Verjuice, or Apples for Sy­der, then prepare your self with so many as you think are convenient for your Ground, and as soon as they be stamped, sow them if you can, for if they lie long in the Stampings, that will heat and spoyl your Kernels: Therefore if you have them to fetch far, or that you cannot sow them instantly, then let them be sifted from the body of the Apple, and spread thin, or mixed with drye Sand, till you have opportunity to sow them; or you may keep them in Sand (the Ker­nels I mean) a little moyst, till February, and then sow them; but be sure your Ground be well prepared before-hand with good tillage, and clean picking; cover them about one Inch, or a little more, with fine Mould; afterwards, when they come up, keep them constantly clean from weeds; Remembring if you sow at Michaelmas, that you take care to keep Traps set, for fear Mice rob you of your Kernels. Thus may you Raise what Quantity of Stocks you please, which at two and three years old you may set where you would have them to stand, for to Raise Trees, or to make Hedges for fenceing in your Ground. Keep them clean from Weeds by Digging or Hoing.

Thus having shewed you how to furnish your selves with store of Stocks in a little time, which will make you as strong and good Fences as most wood whatsoever, and are very profitable too, both to yield good Liquor for Drink, and to bring good Fewel to the Fire; I shall now shew you how to plant these Quicksets, both for Hedges with Ditches, and for Stant-hedges (as some call them) without Ditches.

First, Strain a Line where the inside of your Ditch must goe, next your Hedge, then mark along by the Line, sloping, as you would have the Bank of your Hedge to slope, then strain the Line on the other side of the Ditch, and mark it out sloping inward to the Ditch, as you did the other side: For Example, suppose you make your Ditch a yard at the top, and three spade or a yard deep, let it slope so on both sides that it may come to a foot wide at the bottom, but let the Hedge-side slope the most, then if your ground be Green-sword, and stiffe Land, with a Turing Iron take all the Turf off the breadth of your Ditch, [Page 100] then cut out a Triangle-piece all along next the bank, turn hat upsidet down, for to make the slope of your bank; Lay some of the Turf you cut off, or all of it, on the back-side of that Triangle-piece; thereon set one Row of Quick, covering the Roots with Crumbs of Mould, the Ditch one yard, and the Bank a yard, as you may see in Figure 3. where A. is the Triangle-piece cut out of the Ditch, B. the piece laid on the Bank, with the Turf laid grass-side downward, and the Set on the top of that piece, then level up the Bank till it comes level with the top of the piece B. and then lay on such another Angular piece, and on the top of that a Quick-set, as the other, then level up as before, and set ano­ther Angular piece, with the Quick on the top; so have you three Rowes of Quick-set, which let stand about one foot from another in each Row, and if your Ground or the Bank be dry, set them a foot deep, and if you will you may set one row on the top of the Bank; but three Rowes set each against other, open, triangle, make an excellent Fence; if set as is aforesaid.

(See Fig. 3.)

And note, that the higher and larger you make your Bank, the bet­ter your Quick will grow; for this Paradox is true in planting, That the more you spend, the more you shall get; but if your Ground be a light Soyl, then you need not take off the Turf from the triangle-pieces, because the Turf will make such Ground hold up the Bank the better; but then it will grow out at the edge of the Angle, and so will trouble you the more to weed your Quick; and besides you will want it to lay in the midst of your Bank, which would feed your Sets much, and make them grow the better.

But if you would make a Stant-hedge without a Ditch, the usual way is, to dig a Trench about a foot and a half wide, therein set two or three Rows of Quick, which on good Land may prove indifferent well, but if your Ground be bad, or that you would make it grow and prosper well on any Land, then dig a place where your Hedge must stand one yard wide, and make a Bank with Earth one yard high, being one yard at the bottom, and narrowed by degrees to a foot at the top; set two Rows of Sets on each side this Bank, as is shewed before about planting the Bank by the Ditch; or you may make this Bank two foot wide below, and two foot high, setting one Row of Quick on each side, and one on the top, as is before directed; and ever observe, that the larger you make your Banks, the better your Sets will grow, as is before noted.

You may, if your Fence be near to an High-way, have Earth suffi­cient from thence to make this bank, which will be a little fence of it [Page 101] self, and help the growth of your Sets much; or you may slope off your ground a foot deep by this Bank, and some ten foot off come out to the Level of the Ground; there may you furnish your self with Earth to make the Bank, plowing or digging up that ground where you took off the Earth, adding a little Dung to it, which you may sowe in the Spring with Corn or Hay-seed, and your Ground in little time will be never the worse, especially if the Soyl be good.

Thus having set your Hedge, cut off all the sets within one inch or two of the ground, and keep them weeded for two or three years; and when they have shot two years on good, or three years on indifferent ground, cut them off within three Inches of the ground; but if there be some places too thin, there lay down some into the gaps, and cover them and the rest over one Inch with Mould, leaving the Ends of the the Layers out, which will draw Root, and thicken your Hedge. Let his be practised at all times, when you make or lay your Hedges.

But note, if your Hedge be set with Crab, or Apple-stocks, that you leave one standing, uncut up, at every twenty foot, or at every ten or twelve foot, if the Ground be your own, on both sides the Hedge; then may you so order them, by pruning or staking, that one may lean into one ground, and the other into another, &c. Prune up these Stocks yearly, till you have got them out of Cattels reach, and then graft them with Red-strake Jennit-moyl, or what Syder, or other Fruit you please; but if your Stocks be of Apple-kernels, you may let them stand ungrafted, and they will yield you very good Sy­der-fruit; but Stocks ungrafted will be the longer before they bear, and also when you graft, you may be certain of your Kind, but if you find a very natural Stock, that is likely by Leaf, Shoot and Bud, try it; by so doing you may have a new fine Fruit: if you like it not, you may graft it when you please.

The rest of the Hedge when it hath shot three or four year, you may Lay, for to make a fence of it self; for you must mind to keep it from Cattel till it comes to be Laid, and one or two years after; And now to Lay it, I shall give some few Rules, which may direct you when you Lay any Fence-hedge, of what sort of wood soever it be.

First at every Laying, lay down some old Plashes, or young ones if your Hedge be thin; but let them point with their Ends to the Ditch-side of the Bank, keeping the ends low on the Bank; they will the better thicken the bottom of your Hedge, and keep up the Earth of your Bank.

[Page 102] Secondly, At every Laying lay Earth on your Bank, to heighten it, and to cover your Layers all but the Ends, which Earth will help your Quick much, and make the Fence the better by heightning the Banks, and deepning your Ditch.

Thirdly, Do not cut your Plashes too much, but just so much as they may well bend down; and do not lay them so upright as some of our Work-men doe, but lay them near to a Level, the Sap will break out at several places the better, and not run so much to the ends as it will when they lie much sloping. If you have Wood to spare, cut up most of those that grow near the Ditch; but hang the Bank then with Bushes, to keep the Cattel from cropping them the first year; these will shoot strong, and secure your Hedge well, keep up the Bank, and thicken the bottom of your Hedge, &c.

Fourthly, Lay your Hedge pretty thick, turning the beard on the Ditch-side; but do not let the beard hang uncut, as the common work­men do, (though it doth make a good shew at first making) but cut off all the stragling boughs within half a foot of the Hedge on both sides, then will it shoot strong at these places, and thicken your Hedge much the more: Of this, Reason may inform you, as it did me, and Experience will afterwards confirm it.

Fifthly, If you have got a good high Bank, make your Hedge so low as you think it may but just serve for Fence the first year; for it will soon grow high, and the lower your Hedge is made, the Quick will grow the better, and the bottom will be the thicker; but take care to keep out Cattel from the Field-side, the first year after it is made.

Sixthly, If you would have a good Hedge for Fence, you must fell it often, doing as is aforesaid, and take care at every felling to root out Elder, Travellers Joy, (that is Bull-bine, as some call it,) Bria­ny, &c. and also leave not too many high Standard-trees or Pollards in it; the Elm is one of the best. Doe not use too much dead wood in the bottom of your Hedges, for that choaks your Quick; but if you have a gap, make your dead Hedge at a distance. Much more I could say of Hedges, but I forbear.

Only I cannot pass by the Learned Esquires good Advice, in his Discourse of Forrest-trees, (pag. 50.) which is this: I do only wish, upon the Prospect and Meditation of the Ʋniversal Benefit, that every person whatsoever, worth Ten Pounds per Annum, within his Maje­sties Dominions, were by some indispensable Statute obliged to plant his Hedge-rowes with the best and most usefull kinds of them, especially in such places of the Nation, as be the more Inland Counties. Thus [Page 103] far the Learned Author: To which I adde, that if they did not plant so many Trees, and keep such a number planted, they should be com­pell'd to plant ten Crab-stocks for the want of one Tree, &c.

If this were but as much in use with us as it in Hereford-shire, and once grown to a Custom, we should in few years banish out forraign Drinks by this our excellent and most wholsom one. Besides, our Trees in shallow ground would thrive better in Banks of Hedge-rowes, than in the middle of the Ground.

Again, (saith he) Ʋndoubtedly if this course were effectually taken, a very considerable part both of Meat and Drink which is spent in our prejudice, might be saved by the Countrey-people, even out of the Hedges; which would afford them not onely the Pleasure and Profit of their deli­cious Fruit, but such abundance of Syder and Perry as should suffice them to drink of one of the most wholsom and excellent Beaverages in the World.

Old Gerrard did long since alleadge us an Example worthy to be pur­sued: I have seen (saith he, speaking of Apple-trees, lib. 3. ch. 101.) in the Pastures and Hedge-rowes about the Grounds of a worshipful Gen­tleman, dwelling two miles from Hereford, called Mr. Roger Bodnome, so many Fruit-trees of all sorts, that the Servants drink for the most part no other Drink but that which is made of Apples; the Quantity being such, that (by the Report of the Gentleman himself) the Parson hath for Tythe many hogsheads of Syder. An Example doubtless to be followed of Gentlemen that have Lands: But Envy saith, The Poor will break down our Hedges, and we shall have the least part of the Fruit: How­ever, I advise you to go forward, in the Name of God; Graft, set, plant, and nourish up Trees every corner of your Ground; the La­bour is small, the Cost is nothing, the Commodity is great, your selves shall have plenty, the Poor shall have somewhat in time of want to re­lieve their Necessity, and God shall reward your Minds and Diligence. Thus far honest Gerard.

And in truth, with how small Charge and with how great Pleasure this were to be effected, every one that is Patron of a little Nursery can easily calculate: But by this Expedient, many thousands of Acres, sow'd now with Barley, might be cultivated for Wheat, or converted into Pasture, to the increase of Corn and Cattel; besides the Timber which the Pear-tree doth afford, comparable for divers curious uses with most: this also would make Timber the more plentifull; the decaying Trees and pruning would be good Fire-wood.

One thing more I do wish were practised in our Hedges, and those fined severely that did not observe it, viz. That there should not an Oak in any Hedge whatsoever, be headed, but that the Owner might [Page 104] have liberty to shread them up as some do Elms, though not to stock or fell them till such an Age; in such Banks we should have the best Timber, and enrich the Owner, &c.

SUppose you were to plant one Acre of Ground, or more, with Walnuts or Chesnuts, or the like, and would have it planted to the best advantage; that is, to have your Trees stand in good Order to the Eye, and to have as many Trees as conveniently you can in your Ground, (which is supposed all men would have) and yet your Trees to stand at convenient distance.

Now (I say) supposing your Ground to be one Acre, and a Geome­trical square, in such a ground you may begin your first Row on which side you please to stake out your Ground for the holes to be made; you must first resolve what distance your Trees had best be planted at; remembring, that if your ground be good, and a deep ground, then you may plant your Trees at somewhat the greater distance: Of the Ground that most Trees delight in, you may see in the particular Chap­ter, speaking of each Kind. Your Best way is to plant them Trian­gular and not square, as some doe; for you can plant them in no form or order whatsoever to be more pleasing to the most Noble Sense, than to have every three Trees to make an Equilateral Triangle; nor in no other way whatsoever to have so many Trees to stand in such, or any piece of Ground whatsoever, at such a distance. For satisfaction, and likewise to demonstrate it more fully, observe these two following Fi­gures of the aforesaid piece of Ground, which is one Acre, and is a Geometrical Square.

But before I shew you a Draft, or you stake out your Ground for your holes to be made, first consider well these few Rules:

First, Observe the Distance that your Trees ought to be planted at; alwayes remembring, that if your Ground be good, and a deep Soyl, that then your Trees will hold the longer, and by consequence grow to the greater perfection, therefore plant at larger distance. As for [Page 105] Example, If I were to plant this Acre of Ground with Syder-Apples, (as for Instance, all red-strakes, which is an excellent Syder-Apple, and is likewise a great Bearer, and a Tree that doth not last very long,) my Ground being also a shallow Ground, I think of 22 foot asunder to plant these Trees at, or as neer that as the Ground will permit.

Then Secondly, I go round my Ground, and observing my Fence well, and finding no great Trees in it, I then resolve to set my Trees at six foot from my Fence, (but note, if there be great Trees in your Hedge that fences your Ground, then this is too nigh) then I set off six foot at one Corner of my Orchard, and six foot at the other Corner of the same side, which is the East side, then I set off six foot at one Corner of the West side, it matters not which, only that End which is the Levellest, is the best for Measuring: Having set these three stakes, I strain a Line from one stake to the other, on the East side; then I lay a square to this Line, removing it along the Line till I find the other End of the Square point exactly against the Stake on the west side; then laying a Line right square to that Line, till you come at the Stake on the VVest side, I then measure by this Line as many 22 foots as I can; noting how many times 22 foot I find, and what you find is over, or more than 11 foot, then make your distance the less, to make that up the equal distance for one Tree more: but if it be less than half the distance your Trees are to stand asunder, then adde that which is under the 11 foot, to the number of Trees that be to stand asunder. Observe but this, and then you need not fear that your Trees will stand too far off on one side, and too near on the other, it being the same Charge to plant in good Order as at Random, as too many doe; nay many times less Charge; and how much more pleasing Order is, I leave them to judge to whom the great God of Order hath given a great delight to imitate him in his glorious works.

But as for this my piece of Ground, which I pitch on only for Ex­ample, viz. One Acre, and a Square, I must find the square Root of 160 Rod, or as near it as my Chain will give, and then substract but the 12 foot out for the distance of the Trees from the Fence, and di­vide the Remainder by 22, the Quotient tells you how many Trees will stand in a Row; the over-measure substracted from, or added to, as your Reason teacheth you.

Note this, that it is most commonly the best way for your Rows to goe the longest way of your Ground; for though your Trees stand 22 foot asunder, yet your Rowes in their straight Lines will not stand so far.

Now to find the square Root there are very many Rules, but none [Page 106] that are to my Apprehension so exact and easie as by Logarithmes: find but the Logarithme of your Number, then take half that Log. the Number answering is the square Root.

Exam. The Log. of 160, is 2. 204 11998.

The half of this Log. is 1. 10205999.

The nearest Number answering this Logarithme is 12 Rod, 65/100 that is, 12 Rod 65 Links of a one Pole-Chain divided into 100 parts.

The Proof may appear by these three Examples following.

By this it doth plainly appear, that 12.65 is the nearest Number that can be found by your Decimal Chain it is but 225/10000 more, and by Logarithmes but 2 of a Link put into 100 parts, therefore exact as need be for this purpose, unless it were for Calculation in Astronomy, or the like. And you see that 12.64▪ multiplyed in it self, amounts to 159 Rod and 7696/10000: so that I take 12 Rod and 65 of 100 to be Length or Breadth; it being a Square they both be as one.

Now being the Question is propounded in Feet, we must turn this 12 Rod and 65/100 into feet also; but note, you may work the same by the Links of your Chain better than by foot Measure; but some ('tis possible) have not a Chain, therefore observe both wayes, and first by Foot measure.

12 Rod multiplyed by 16 Foot and a half, shew the Feet in 12 Rod.

Then for the 65 Links of one Rod, put into 100 parts, or if it be your four Pole-Chain (as is most usual now) put into 100 Links; then are these 65 Links but 16 Links and a 1/49; by that Chain; [Page 107] then by the Rule of Three, say, if 25 (the Links in one Rod) be equal to 16 foot and a half (the feet in one Rod,) how many feet are equal to 16 Links and a Quarter?

The Question ranks it self thus in Decimal Fractions.

As 25 is to 16. 50, so is 16. 25: to 10 foot 725/1000 of a foot.

Do you desire to know what this Fraction 725/1000 is, in Inches or Bar­ley-Corns, (which be the lowest vulgar terms in surveying) to satisfie you and also my self, and likewise to instruct those that desire to learn this Excellent Rule, the Rule of Three, which rightly (for its excel­lent Use) is called the Golden Rule.

Observe this, if one foot, or 12 Inches be put into 1000 parts, as here it is, (and must be, being 'tis the Integer or whole summe of 725,) the Rule orders it self thus, as 1000 is to 12 Inches, so is 725 to 8 Inches 700/1000.

Now to know what this 700/1000 is in Barley-Corns, do as before, say thus, If 1000 be equal to 3 Barley-Corns, what is 700 equal unto? I say as here you see it proved, that 700 is equal to two Barley-corns and one tenth part of one, for 100 is one tenth of 1000.

[Page 108] By this it doth plainly appear, that if 12 Rod 65/100 be turned into feet, it maketh 208 foot, 8 Inches, 2 Barley-corns, and one tenth of a Barley-corn: So that you see the square Root of an Acre is near 208 foot 8 Inches two Barley-corns, neglecting 1/10, because 65/100 is some­what too much. Now from this 208 foot 8 Inches, I take the 12 foot for the Trees to stand off from the Fence, there remains 196 foot 8 inches, then I divide this by 22, the distance the Trees are to stand asunder; [...] So I find there may stand ten Trees, for here you see there may be open places, and 20 foot 8 inches for one more; so there wants but one foot 4 Inches (or 16 Inches) to make 10 Trees in a Row, for there is alwayes a Tree more than the open.

Note, that in planting of Walks, this is of good use, [...] that (as I said before) to make one Tree more, this 16 inches I divide by 9, (being there are 9 opens be­tween the ten Trees,) the Quotient is near 2 inches, which substract from 22 foot, and there remains then 21 foot 10 Inches, and so much must every Tree stand asunder, the proof is as followeth:

Here you see that'tis 196 foot and 6 Inches, it wants but 2. In.

Then to know what distance your Rows may stand asunder, the Rule is, If you make an Equilateral Triangle, the perpendicular of that is the distance between the Rows, which Triangle I have drawn by the same scale of the Orchard. (See Fig. 4.)

See Chapter the 44 ^th. The breadth of my Paper [...] 6 inches, the Plat 196 foot, and 66 of 100 for the 8 inches, my Scale is neer 33 parts in one inch, but I take 32 because it is an even number.

(See Fig. 4.)

If you will trye the Perpendicular of this Triangle, 'tis but 19 foot, so that there are 3 foot between every 2 Rowes saved by Planting your ground this way, more than those that plant their Ground to have every 4. Trees to make a Square, the Trees standing in both at the same distance.

But finding that but little Paper beareth the full breadth of 6 inches [Page 109] the quarter of a sheet, and this being less square by twelve foot than my full Draught should be, this being only for the square of the Trees, I draw and proportion my Scale to the breadth of 5 Inches and a half: 208 foot divided by 5 and ½, sheweth that [...] your Scale must be one Inch divided into 37 parts, and better; but for fear this Scale should be too great, I draw my Plat by the Scale of 40 in one Inch, so if you divide 208 (the breadth of the Ground) by 40, it gives 5 Inches and 8/40, and so broad must the Plat be, as you may see by the Figure: Thus may you enlarge your Draught, or di­minish it on your Paper, as your pleasure is: But 'tis better to draw all your Draughts as large as your Paper will give you leave; the distance of the Trees in the Draught is 21 foot 10 Inches asun­der.

(See Fig. 5.)

By this you see, that if you plant your Trees triangle, this Acre of Ground hath 11 Rowes and 104 Trees; but if you begin either side with 10, as before I began with 9, then will there be in this ground 105 Trees; but to know how many Rowes you may have in any ground, doe thus, and you may presently satisfie your self; you see the ground from one out-side Row to the other, is 196 foot 8 Inches, which divided by 19 (the distance that the Rowes be asunder, neg­lecting the Fraction as needless now) gives 10 distances. Alwayes remember that there is one Rowe, or in a Range [...] of Trees one more than the Distances, in this Draught the Trees stand at the same distance, but square.

(See Fig. 6.)

By this last Draught it appeareth, that if you set the Trees at the same distance, and set them square, that then there will be but 9 Rowes and 90 Trees in this square Acre of Ground; but if you plant them Triangle, then will it hold 14 or 15 Trees more: But if your Plat of Ground be a long square, or any other Irregular Figure, then will your Triangle-way hold a great many more, in proportion to the Quantity of Ground; besides it makes many more Rowes, therefore more pleasing to the Eye.

Note this well for setting your Trees exactly, having found the distance they are to stand asunder, and likewise how many Rows, with a Line laid, or stakes true set, where your first Row must goe; the said stakes will be of good use to set the Trees by when your holes be made; having resolved on which side you will begin, which al­wayes let be the side you find most in sight, set down your two Cor­ner-stakes for the first and last holes to be made, then with your [Page 110] Assistants measure exactly in your Row by the Line 21 foot and Ten inches, but in case there should be odde measure, then proportion it (as is shewed before) by making one Hole more or less, as you see cause: Then having two men to assist you, with a Chain (for Line will reach or shrink,) measure exactly the distance of two Trees, let one hold at one Tree, and one at the next in the Row, you standing at the Angle, with the Chain equally stiffe, put down a stake at the Angle, and so go on to the next two Trees, pitching down your stakes per­pendicular: And also considering the Thickness of your Stakes; thence let your two men go to the next, and you setting down one at the Angle, till you have staked out the whole Ground; this doe when you come to set your Trees, being carefull to keep your Chain strained both sides alike, and to allow for the crookedness of your Trees, and when you have got two Rows planted, then your Eye will assist you well enough to observe the Rowes as you go on.

Note also, that if your Ground be large, and a square, then your best way will be to find the middle Row, and set that off square from that side of your Ground you mind most, or find to be straightest; there begin to mark out your holes, and also to plant your Trees; but if your Ground be Irregular, or have an Angle on one side, then be­gin on your straight side, and run the odde measure into the Angle, as far as is convenient to plant in such a Ground, you need but find what distance your first Row must be set at: But if your Ground have both the sides straight, then it will be convenient to set the side-rowes at equal distance from your Fence; Thus you may well perceive, that it is but measuring the length and breadth of your Ground, and propor­tion one to the distance your Trees be to stand at, the other to the distance the Rows are to be asunder, and you may proceed to stake out your Ground. After this method you may plant any sort of Forrest trees in Groves.

The best way is, to stake out your whole Ground before you plant a Tree, or make one hole; by so doing you may well perceive where a fault is, and easily mend it in time (though some are of opinion other­wise,) but I shall leave them to their own Judgement, and satisfie my self with Experience and Reason: But for fear any thing should be du­bious to you that I have writ, observe but the setting out of these two Rows, and then I hope it will be plainly demonstrated to you how to proceed. Suppose the Length of your Ground should be the length of the Line marked at the End thus.

(See Figure 7.)

[Page 111] Having staked out your first Row, as before is shewed, and having the Chain exactly the distance of two Opens, then bid one of your men take one End, and the other man the other End, you holding exactly the Middle, bid one hold at the stake one, the other at the stake two, then pitch you down your stake right at the Angles, as the prick­ed Line sheweth: So let your two men remove from stake to stake, and you from Angle to Angle, till you have staked out your Rowe, and then let them come to that Row you last set out, and goe on to another, so proceed till you have staked out your whole Ground. Thus much for planting Trees in Orchard fashion. I have been the larger to shew the best way for improving your Ground, presuming, that every man that fenceth in a ground would plant as many Trees as he can in it; let such but mind what I have delivered, and what I shall deliver in the next Chapter, I hope it will be satisfactory to him; if it be, it will be the like to me.

But what Order soever you plant your Trees in, make your holes good before: Set not your Trees too deep, and keep them staked the first year, covering the ground over the Roots with some Litter, or Dung, and over that a little Mould, to keep the Sun from burning the Dung, and exhausting the strength. In the Spring walk over the Ground you planted in Winter, and set your Trees to right, and tread the Mould to the Roots, especially if the Spring be drye; keep all the cracks filled with Mould; after your Trees be set, keep your ground with digging or plowing, for three or four years at first, but the longer the better; your Trees will run and thrive in the loose Ground much; but if you do not so much mind Order in Planting, but would keep your Land for Corn, and yet would gladly have Fruit-trees too (which may very well be, and you may have good store of Fruit: and not much the less Corn,) then plant your Rowes about thirty foot asun­der, the longest wayes of your Ground, and set the Trees in the Rows about 15 foot asunder, and let the Trees in each Row stand exactly square; so may you have a very fine Orchard, and little or nothing the less Corn: Many years may you have as much Fruit as is worth a good Crop of Corn, off so much Land, and not the less Corn; which may well encourage you to planting, if you dare believe me; but if not, be but so kind to your self and me, as to trye whether I tell truth not. Be sure to keep Cows out of your young Orchards; Sheep will do no harm, provided you wisp your Trees about with Thum­bands whilest young, which is the best way to keep them from the destructive Hares and Coneys.

ALthough I have shewed you how to prune most sort of Trees, in each Chapter, where I shewed you how to raise them, yet I shall say a little more; and all will be too little; for the Curate of Henonville tells you in his Book of the Manner of Ordering Fruit-trees, That it is a Thing very rare among Gardners to Prune Trees well; for the doing of it well depends more upon their Ingenuity than upon their Hand: It is also very hard to give Instructions for it, be­cause it consists not in certain and general Maxims, but varies accord­ing to the particular Circumstances of each Tree, so that it de­pends absolutely upon the Gardners Prudence, who ought of himself to judge what Branches must be left, and which are fit to be cut away, &c.

Indeed that erroneous Custome and Saying (which is among most men) of Timber-trees, not to prune them at all, or if you doe, to cut off the boughs at distance from the Body, hath made many a good Fruit-tree lose its life sooner by many years than it would have done, and also hath yielded to the Owner much less and worse Fruit than it would have done: Therefore whatsoever Bough you cut off from Fruit or Forrest-tree, cut it close and smooth, and the lowest side closest, then will it not hold water, and every year the Bark will surround and overgrow the wound by little and little, till it hath quite healed the place; But if you leave a Stump, it's likely that will hold water, and make a hole into the very Body of your Tree, and so in little time make it sick and kill it, which before would bear you but little and poor Fruit: Or if the Stump hang down so that it doth not hold wet, then the Tree must be as big as that Stump is long, on all sides, be­fore it can over-grow that place; or if the Stump rots, and breaks off, then many times it leaves a hole in the Tree, which if it tends much upward, so that it takes water, it certainly kills the Tree; and if the Tree be not a very thriving Tree, it will be very long before it overgrowes that hole, though it do not take wet: Therefore what [Page 113] boughs you cut off, cut them off close, unless the Tree be very old, and the boughs great, such I do not advise you to meddle with; but if you doe, cut them at a distance from the Body, alwayes remem­bring to let the wound be smooth, and to tend as much from the Ho­rizon as may be. All boughs that grow upright, be they great or little, cut them not right cross over, but cut them sloping upward, and let the slope aspect the South, East or West, if it may be; and in those boughs that lean from the head, cut the slope on the lower side, the slope tending downward, so will they cover over the better; if the wound be great cover it over with some Clay, well mixed with Horse-dung to keep it from the weather, and it will cover over the sooner.

Many a good Tree is spoyled by grafting of it in bad places, as I have seen in some hundreds, of which I have not spared (as oft as I could) to tell the Owners, but few would believe me; for sometimes they cut off great boughs, till they come to 6 Inches (or thereabouts) Diameter; there they put in four or six Grafts in the Bark, and some­times two in the Clift, and saw the bough right cross over, though it grow upright, in which if the Grafts do grow, the head is so great, and they growing Round (as it were endeavouring to cover over the wound) make such a hollow place (like a Dish) on the Head, as holds water and kills the Tree, which is many times dead before the Grafts can cover over the head: or if the Tree doth not thrive very well, they keep that place will covered with Loom, or Clay mixed with Horse-dung, and sometimes they head the Tree very low, and thereby check it so much, that it dyes in little time after: Sometimes they cut off such great boughs, and do it so ill, that though the heads grow, yet in little time these wounds kill the Tree. Though I shall not here teach you how to graft, yet let me advise you when you graft high great Trees, not to cut them too low, but to prune them up till they come to the thickness of your Arm, or less, and then graft them, for then will the Grafts soon overgrow such places.

Leave a good many of these Heads on, according to the bigness of your Tree, that if some miss you may take them off the next Spring, and yet have enough for the Head. If you graft in the Bark, you must remember to head your Grafts about Midsummer, or else they will be subject to blow off; put your Grafts in alway on the upper side, and cut upright Boughs a little sloping off, they will heal over the better; keep them from Suckers, and then you may expect good Trees and Fruit, of which I wish your Hedge-rowes were full.

Of all sorts of Trees whatsoever, if any Roots be broke or much [Page 114] bruised, or cracked, cut them off till you come to firm Wood, the slope tending to the Ground like a Horse-foot; but be very sparing in cutting the Roots of Greens, and also in cutting their heads off, yet you may proportion the Head to the Root, by cutting off some side-boughs, which cut off (if your Green be tender) the latter end of March, or in April, and cut the Bough off two or three Inches from the Body, and that time come Twelve month take off that piece close, and cover the wound with a little Wax or Clay well tempered: if your Greens be for high Trees, endeavour to make them taper, by leaving some side-boughs to ease the head.

In all Trees you intend for Timber, be cautious in cutting off their heads, especially those of great Piths, such as the Ash, Walnut, &c. Unless your Tree grow top-heavy, or much crooked, and then at the crooked place cut off the head sloping upward, and nurse up one of the principal shoots to be the leading Shoot, but such as are subject to die when headed, or any Tree very great, meddle not with such; the Beech is one of the worst to head of any Tree I know.

Such Trees as you intend for to grow to a certain proposed height, you must take care to keep them taper, by leaving side-boughs in convenient place and distance to make them taper, cutting such boughs off when you find your Tree is swelled enough below; still minding to take off the greatest side-boughs and leave little ones, and to pro­portion your head (by keeping it small) according to the Body, and maintaining the leading Shoot, letting it have no equals; for forked Trees are never straight: Thus do till you have got your Tree to the height you intend, and there let the Head break out, and cut off all the side-boughs, but if side-boughs still break out, then give them a Summer-pruning, a little after Midsummer, and cut them off close; so will you kill them, and have a fine, stately, clear Body, and fine Tim­ber-tree: See Chap. 10.

Observe this in all Trees you would have grow with a handsome straight body, till you have got them to the height you intend they shall head at.

Whilest your Trees be small you must prune them every year: The best time for most is the Spring; but hardy Trees and Wood may be pruned at any time in Winter; when they be a little older, once in two year, then once in three, and then in four, and never seldomer than once in five or six, so will the Bough be small, the Tree will soon overgrow the place, the Knot will not be great to vex the Carpen­ter or Joyner at all, the place will not be very subject to put forth Suckers, because the Sap hath had no great recourse to that place.

[Page 115] Mind alwayes to cut off your Boughs smooth, and close to the Body: This if you please to doe, you may have fine Timber, and handsom Trees, which I dare engage will pay you or yours well for your helps to them.

The like doe with your standard Fruit-trees, or those you intend for Pollards, till you have got them to the height you design they shall head at, and at setting if they be tender Trees, or Trees that have great Pith. If you must head them, let it be in the Spring, when you find they begin to bud, but then you must take care of the winds in Winter, that they shake them not so as to let the Air in to the ground, to kill the Roots, therefore tie them to good Stocks.

Or this is a good way for Trees that have not great Piths, or are very tender; cut off some of the tops of the Boughs when you set them, so let them be till the Spring, and when you see the Bud break out, then cut them on every shoot of the head, a little above the lowest Bud or two of each shoot; so will the head shoot but with few shoots, and they will be the stronger; the head being small, the Root will endeavour to proportion it to its former greatness, or near it: but if you have many shoots break out, then cut them all off but four or five, for so many are enough to make Arms for any Tree; but if then you find the Tree to shoot too much, and grow top-heavy (as some­times they will if well kept and on good ground,) then head the Tree again, but not so low as you did before, (for Reason ought to be used in all things; this will make your Tree swell in body much, and in time be a fine Tree: So that I say, endeavour to get a good Body; for in Fruit-trees this is to be noted, that you must in the first place en­deavour to get your Tree in such a Condition as to bear you good Fruit, and a Quantity, rather than little Fruit early, and then never good Fruit or Tree after; therefore if you have a Tree that doth not thrive, but is subject to blow much (as most such Trees are) cut off the blow­ing Buds in the Spring, as low to a Leafie Bud as you can, and some shoots, as near the place where the Tree headed as you can; but mind to leave some Buds on the head to draw up the Sap, or else your Tree may break out in the middle of the Body, or a little above Ground; but if your Buds once shoot on the head, but half a foot, then will your Tree come away. Thus and by digging about, have I helped ma­ny a stunted Tree forward, which you may doe likewise, if you please.

I have many times observed several Fruit-trees, as Pears, Apples, &c. to be full of false-bearing Buds; I call them so because they did not blow, for the Tree having got more head than the Roots could well [Page 116] maintain, had not strength sufficient to spare sap for blossom, nor yet for Fruit; which by pruning and thinning the heads of such Trees, and by slitting the bark on the Body in the Spring, hath made them after­wards to bear well, when they have put forth new shoots at the head.

And some sorts of Fruit-trees there be which will blow and bear themselves to death, when they be middle-aged, as before I told you some young ones would, if not helped by pruning; but the best wayes to preserve such Trees from death, and to make them bear pretty good Fruit, is, to cut off most of the blowing Buds, and to thin the head of some boughs, to make it shoot again; then will it live many years longer, and bear better Fruit: Some Trees there be that will run so much into wood, that they will not bear of themselves till they come to be old, but if you cut off the head of the shoots as soon as ever the Spring-shoot is over, which is near Midsummer, and take out some great boughs then; if you mind your Time, and do it with discretion, you may force that Tree to put forth blowing Buds, and blow and bear the year following.

Thus have I shewed you some wayes and hints of pruning Trees, though I know some that are against Pruning them at all; So are there some that are against Learning: but 'tis convenient for Trees to be pruned well, as also it is very necessary for men to be brought up in Learning; for thereby both produce much the better Fruits: therefore,

I shall here shew you what the good Esquire saith in his Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 74. which he quotes from an ancient Author.

By this Animadversion alone it were easie for an ingenious man to understand how Trees are to be govern'd, which is (in a word or two) by cutting clean, smooth and close, making the stroke upward, and with a sharp Chizzel or Bill, so as the weight of an untractable bough do not splice, and carry the Bark with it, which is both dangerous and unsightly; and by endeavouring to keep the Tree taper, by leaving some little Boughs on the sides.

I have here shewed you how to prune Forrest-trees, with somewhat of high Standard Fruit-trees; but if you would see more Books, then see Esquire Evelyns Discourse of Forrest-trees, and for Fruit-trees, the Curate of Henonville's Book.

But here note, if you should have any Trees that should be stundied, or very crooked, or much cropped by Cattel; the best way is not to stand to prune up such Trees to a Head, but first to fell them close at the Ground, and then they will put forth young straight shoots; one of the best you must nurse up, if you intend it for a Timber-Tree; if for under-wood, then let them grow with all the heads the Roots will put forth: The Spring is the best season for this. And thus much at present of pruning Forrest-trees; for I tell you there are more Trees spoyled by bad Lopping or Pruning, or for want of good Lopping or Pruning, than there are of all Diseases belonging to Forrest-trees, unless they be accidental, as spoyl'd by Cattel, &c.

THere be several Diseases and Casualties that do spoyl Trees, which sometimes happen in the Roots, and sometimes in the Body or Head.

1. The Roots may be the decay of the Tree; as, if they stand in [Page 118] Ground contrary to its Kind, as the Beech on cold Clay, and wet Ground, or the Alder on sharp dry Gravel, &c. which is contrary to each Kind, and must not thus be set.

2. It is also a great fault to the Roots of Trees, to set those Trees which naturally love to run shallow, too deep; or indeed any other.

3. When Ground is very stiffe or Rocky, it must be digged or plow­ed to make way for the Roots to run in, and contrary Earth layd round about the Trees Roots.

4. Great weeds must not grow round the Tree, for they will rob the Roots of their Nourishment; also they must early be weeded from Seedlings, or small Plants, least they choak them.

5. Ivy, and Travellers Joy, Bryany, and such Climers, must be pull'd up round your Trees, least they pinch or make them crooked, and so spoyl them.

6. Suckers must carefully be pull'd off, whensoever you see them break out, opening the Earth, so that you may well come at the place of the Root where they grow out, and then pull or cut them off close: If you find them rooted, you may set them again, but then you must observe Winter-season; but such Trees as yield Suckers from the running Roots, as the Elm, Cherry, &c. if it be in Woods, and they thin, leave some of them as you please, they will do the Tree no harm; be sure to take suckers clean off from the Body the first year.

7. The Bodies are most commonly in danger, if Deer, Hares, or Connyes can come at them whilest they be young; therefore if you plant where Deer or Connies are, you must take care to fence them well with Frames of wood, and look to keep them so, or else never plant at all; for in one day or night they will bark round several, espe­cially the Ash, Line, Abele, Poplar, &c. And take great care to keep your Apples and Pears from Hares and Connies in hard Winters, for they will spoyl them all if they come at them. The best fence to se­cure your Trees from them, is to tie Thum-bands of Hay or Straw round them, so high as they can reach; keep this renewed early every Winter.

8. Great Boughs ill taken off, as I have many times said before, spoyls many a Tree; therefore take them off close and smooth, and not parallel to the Horizon: Cover the wound with Loom, or Clay, well mixed with Horse-dung, and keep it so covered; for if the wet fall perpendicular on such a place, it will in little time make the whole Tree hollow, by the wet getting in there, which comes by great Lops and bad Lopping; as you may see in too many Elms, Ashes, Horn-beams, &c. spoyl'd by such carelesness.

[Page 119] 9. If a Tree be Bark-bound, then slit through the Bark with your knife, from the head to the Ground: The Spring is the best season; This will do most Trees good, and no harm to any.

10 If Worms be got between the Bark and the body of your Tree, they must be cut out; and the place done over with Loom.

11. Cankered places, or gall'd, or boughs broke, are to be cut smooth, and covered over with Loom; the Canker must be cast clean out: If a great bough be broke, and the Tree old, cut it off at a di­stance from the Body, but little boughs close.

12. If a Tree be blasted in part, or the whole head, cut all that is blasted or dead close off to the Quick, and take out all dead boughs: Keep Catterpillers from the heads of young Trees, lest they eat off the Leaves and Buds, and kill your Tree.

13. Take care to destroy Moles and Mice, by Traps or Poyson; for Moles will make hollow the Ground, and much harm your young Trees: Mice will eat all the Bark off round the Body in hard Winters, and kill your Tree; but mind you in time to prevent them.

14. Rooks do destroy many a Tree, both old and young, before their time: As to old Trees by pinching off the tops, and breaking off the Buds; and young Trees by lighting on their heads; their weight breaking off their young tender shoots and Buds, causes the Trees to die; and also they destroy Seedlings where they breed; their Dung brings forth great weeds, as Nettles, &c. and so choaks the young Seedlings; therefore kill all of them you can at breeding-time, by shooting them, and setting Lime-twips on the tops of your young Trees. You'l thrive the better if you destroy them.

IF you love to have a thriving Wood, and to improve it for your best Advantage, your best way is, not to let it stand too long before you fell; for the oftener you fell your under-wood, the thicker it will be; as at ten or twelve years growth on a shallow ground, and twelve or fourteen years growth on your deep Soyl and best grounds; for there [Page 120] be many Inconveniencies in letting your Woods stand too long before you fell them, or Trees in Woods that do not prosper.

First, When you let your Woods or Coppices stand long before you fell them, you cannot come to survey your Timber-trees, to see which be decaying, and in so doing you are uncharitable to your Coun­trey, no good Common-wealthsman, no good Husband for your self, and no good Christian: For why should any Reasonable man let his Trees stand in his Woods, or elsewhere, with dead tops, hollow Trunks, Limbs falling down upon others and spoyling them, dropping upon young Seedlings under it, and killing them? The ill husband, while many of his Neigbours want such Timber (nay possibly he him­self,) there he lets his Trees stand, which were formerly worth 10 or 5 l. a Tree, or more, till they be not worth the half that they were: Here he loseth the use of his Money, more than Twenty in the Hun­dred, if it be an Oak, he loses the Bark, with the use of the Ground, where 'tis likely several young Trees might have been, if that had been taken down in time.

I know that some persons of Quality say, that this is a great Orna­ment to their Ground: But I think no greater than it would be to their persons to wear a Garment very Old, with half a skirt, a piece of a Sleeve, and all the Trimming off. But I shall never pronounce such Judgement against trees, having ten times more Mercy. Such as be thriving (unless they stand too thick) I would intreat you not to cut down; for you do not lose so much by suffering the Tree that is decay­ing, to stand; but you hinder you or yours as much in cutting down a young thriving Tree.

There are too many men in this Kingdom, who before they sell their Estates will many times fell off all their Timber that was good, and which would have thriven well for many years, and so by the Moneys they make of that, they lengthen out the time before they sell. I wish that my Vote (though single) could perswade those men that are resolved to sell such Timber, that they would also sell their Land with it; and I do not question but the Purchaser (if a Lover of Tim­ber, as most Purchasers are) would then give more for the Timber to stand, by at least 12 d. in the pound, rather than have another man to buy it off from his Ground. I once observed an Ash-tree in the Wood-walks at Cashiobury, which stood in the Walk that I made through the Wood-walks to Hemsteed High-way; which Ash I measured as followeth, according to the customary way of measuring by the Line of Numbers; it was a fine straight tree, tapering a little, so that I needed but to girth it in one place; it girthed just 72 Inches, and was [Page 121] 58 foot long, from the place where the Root was sawn off, to the place where the head was cut off: The fourth part of 72 Inches, is 18 Inches.

• The Rule is as 12,
• To 18 the Square in Inches,
• So is 58, foot the Length
• To a fourth Number;

And that fourth Number tells you the content in feet, &c. Extend the Compasses, one point fixed in 12, (the side in Inches of a superficial foot square) to 18 Inches the square of the Tree; keep the Compasses fixed, and set one point on 58 the Length of the Tree in feet, (but it must be the 58 on the left hand, or else the Compasses will go off the Rull) and then turn the Compasses twice to the Right hand, and the last movable point of the Compasses will fall upon 130 foot, and something above a half; but that Division is so small, a man can­not read well how much it is, if it be above half a foot: This is the customary way with most men to measure trees, though it makes less than there is, which in reason ought to be considered in the price, and not in the false measure: but I will here shew you how to work both the customary and the true way, by the Rules of Natural Arithme­tick; that so you may trie whether you have measured right by the Rule and Compass, or no; and also that you may see the sweet Agree­ment between Geometry and Arithmetick.

And first to work it by the customary way; here we take the fourth part of the Circumference to be the side of the square of the Tree, (though erroneous) and measure it as a Cylinder. The fourth part of 72 In. is 18 In. which multiplyed in its self, gives 324, the superficial Inches of one end:

Then 58 (the Length) multiplyed by 12, gives 696 Inches, the Length of the Tree in Inches;

And 696 Inches multiplyed by 324 Inches, gives 225504, the square Inches, which summe divided by 1728 (the square Inches in a solid foot) gives 130 foot and a half.

I thought by the point of the Compas­ses it had been a little above ½ a foot, but it is just half a foot:

[Page 122] Thus having shewed you, both by Lines and Numbers, what there was of this Tree the customary way, I shall here shew how many foot of Timber there is in it, the true way, still supposing it to be a Cylin­der, that is, a round Figure of equal Circumference in all parts: there be several wayes to measure it, as by having the Circumference, or by having the Diameter at the End, or by having the side of a square equal to the Base thereof; but we having the Circumference, which is 72 Inches, I shall proceed that way:

And first by the Rule and Compasses, the Circumference being 72 Inches: and the Length 696 Inches; how many solid feet are there in such a tree?

• As is the standing Number 147: 36,
• To the Circumference 72 Inches,
• So is the Length in Inches 696
• To a fourth Number:

And from that to the Content in feet, 166, and near half; that Divi­sion being so small it cannot well be read on a two-foot Rule.

Extend the Compasses from the 147 [...]6/ [...]0 point, to 72 on the left hand; keep the Compasses fixed, and set one point on the Num­ber 696 (the Length in Inches;) and then turning your Compasses twice from that Number towards the left hand, the point will fall upon 166. and near a half, the solid Content in feet:

• Or more easily thus: As is the standing Number 42. 54.
• To 72 Inches the Circumference,
• So is 58 foot (the Length,)
• To a fourth, and that fourth to 166 foot and a ½ fore.

Extend the Compasses from 42. 54, to 72 the Circumference in Inches, that Extent will reach from 58 foot (the Length) to another Number, and from that Number to 166 foot and somewhat more, but how much more I shall shew you with my Pen, and the ordinary way of working; though Log. is much easier, but some may not have ta­bles, or not understand them if they have.

Now having the Circumference given, which is 72 Inches, we must find the Diameter, and the Rule is,

As 22 is to 7, so is 72 to 22 91/100 Inches, the Diameter near 23, as here it is wrought:

[Page 123] Or you may do it by two turns of your Compasses;

Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7: the same Extent will reach from 72. to neer 23; for it wants but 2. of 22:

Or, if you will have it in more exact terms, then,

Now for the Content of the Head, multiply half the Circumference by half the Diameter, and it giveth the superficial Content,

This multiplyed by 696 (the Length of the Tree in Inches) giveth the solid Content in Inches, and that summ divided by 1728 (the Inches in a Cubical Foot,) sheweth you how many foot and parts are in the tree.

The whole Content in Cube-feet is about 166, and a little more; for if you come within ¼ of a foot in such summes as this, with the Rule and Compasses, 'tis well.

When this Tree was sawn off a little above the Root, I told just 72 annual Circles; some of them were the greatest that I ever yet saw in any tree, and those were about the middle of its Age; some three made above one Inch, so that the tree then did grow above two Inches in Diameter in three years time; but at first and of late, for some 6 or 7 years it did increase but little; for it was neer at its full growth, [Page 124] so that if you multiply 12 the Semi-Diameter (for it was 24 Inches at the Root-end) by 6, it gives you 72, so that it did grow one year with another 2 Inches in 6 year, or one Inch in Diameter in three years.

I do not bring this Tree in for its Greatness, but for its quick growth, and fine Length of Timber, which was helped by its situation, it stand­ing in a Valley, and set round with many other great trees. If this tree had been sold alone, it being such a straight Tree, and such a tough grane (for your great grand Trees are alwayes the toughest) to some Pike-maker, &c. it had been worth 1 s. 6 d. the foot, at which price the very timber comes to 09 l. 15 s. 09 d. then the Head and Roots would well pay for the Stocking and making up the wood, and make up this summe Ten pound too.

I do not bring this to compare with Trees that are and have been; for the ingenious Author in his Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 84. tells you of a Tree worth 50 l. as affirmed by Capt. Bullock; but I men­tion it to shew those that love Trees, what Profit a thriving tree brings them yearly: And I dare affirm, that they had better pay Use for Money, than cut down a tree that stands in a good place, and is in a good thriving Condition: therefore if your trees be growing and in­crease in shoot, be not too hasty in felling, and when they are decay­ing it is too late, therefore let them not decay too long before you fell them.

When your Wood is come to the growth you intend to fell at, if your Wood be thick of wood, then fell the Timber-trees and under­wood as close to the ground as you can; but if your wood be thin, then stock up your trees, especially if great timber; and the Winter after, into these holes where you stocked up the trees, set Elm, Cherry, Popler, Sarvice, aud Sallow-Cuttings; so will these trees, which are subject to grow from the running Roots, thicken your woods: the Roots will pay for the stocking; you will save a soot or two of the best of timber, and the Roots of other wood will grow the better in the loose ground where you made the holes: whereas the old Roots would keep the Ground from nourishing, or any from growing there for ma­ny years. If your Ground be a shallow Soyl, do not fill up the holes quite, but set in some Running wood, the Ground being deep by the hills, will make the other wood grow better, and the ends of several Roots being cut, will shoot forth at the sides of the hole, and the holes will receive Seeds which the wind will blow into them, and there being weeds to choak them they will grow well.

For these Reasons I stocked up all the great trees which we felled [Page 125] in our Wood at Cashiobury, and I set in an Elm and a Cherry by the sides of the holes, and the Spring after there came out of the side-roots of Maple, Cherry, &c. which made good shoots, and many Sallows came up in the holes, whereby our Woods were very well thicken'd, to the Conteut of my ingenious Lord, though many people were much against it, because it was not used so to be done.

If your Wood be thin, at every felling lay some boughs, which are most convenient, into the thin places; and before next fall you will have them well rooted, and good shoots from them; A man will doe a great many in one day, for which you will be well satisfied in time.

December and January is the best time to fell Timber, but the Oak in April; if you would have the Bark, when the Moon is decreasing, and the wind not East.

When the Stubs of your under-woods are grown great, stock them up: This is found to be good Husbandry with us in Hartfordshire, which they call Runting their Woods; it makes way for Seedlings, and young Roots to run the better: Do this at felling-time, whereso­ever you have felled Trees at the Ground. When the Roots begin to rot they then come up best, then stock them all up, the other Wood will grow the better, and they will pay you well for your Charge; they will cost you about 6 s. a Stack, and here they will be worth 12 s. or more, when stocked up.

When you fell your Woods or Coppices, cut them smooth and close to the Stub, and a little slanting upwards, as I advised you about Lopping Pollards: the oftner you fell your Woods, Coppices, or Hedges, the thicker they will grow; for every felling gives way to the young Seedlings to get up, and makes the weak Plants shoot strong. Those Woods which increase by running Roots, as Elm, Cherry, Popler, Maple, Sarvice, &c. which thicken your wood much: And Felling makes the Roots of a tree to swell, as Lopping doth the Body; and so it produceth the greater shoots, and comes sooner to perfecti­on: Whereas great wood, and old, and ill taken off from the Stub, ma­ny times kills all.

When you fell your Woods, leave young Trees enough; you may take down the worst that stand, next fall; especially neer a great tree that you judge may go down next fall, for by its fall it may spoyl some: The Statute saith, you are to leave twelve score Oaks at every Fall, on an Acre; for want of them, so many Elms, Ashes, Beeches, &c. But leave according to the thinness of your wood, and where underwood sells well, there let your Timber-trees stand the thinner; and in [Page 126] such Countreys where Coals are cheap, and Timber sells well, there let your Timber-trees stand thick, and then they will need but little pruning up.

Endeavour to plant in your Woods such sorts of Wood as the Ground is most proper for; if wet, then Alder, Sallow, Willow, Withy, &c. if shallow and dry, Ash, Cherry, Beech, Popler, &c. if shallow and wet, Hornbeam, Sallow, Sarvice, &c. but remember that the Oak and Elm be entertained in all places. If your Woods or Coppices be in Parks where you lye open to Deer, then at every Fall plant in them such woods whose Barks the Deer do not much love, such are the Hornbeam, Hasel, Sycamore, &c. When Trees are at their full growth, there be several Signs of their Decay, which give you warning to fell it before it be quite decayed: As in an Oak, when the top-boughs begin to die, then it begins to decay: In an Elm or Ash, if their head dies, or if you see they take wet at any great Knot, which you may know by the side of the Tree being discolour'd below that place before it grows hollow; or if hollow, you may know by knocking it with the head of an Axe, of which you may be the surer satisfied by boring into the middle of it with a small Auger; or if you see the Nighills make holes in it: these be certain Signs the Tree begins to decay, but before it de­cayes much, down with it, and hinder not your self.

HAving shewed you how you may judge of Timber, whether it be sound or not, in the last Chapter, I will now shew you how to take the heighth, that you may the better know the worth of it; for where you have a Rule to go by, you may then the better ghess.

There be several wayes to take the Altitude of a Tree or Building that is perpendicular: as by a two-foot Rule, or two Sticks joyned in a right Angle, (that is square as the Figure A. B. C. having at A. a pin or hole to hang a Thred and Plummet on.

Suppose you were to take the height of X Y, first then hold that [Page 127] end of your square marked with C. to your Eye, then goe backward or forward, till the Thred and Plummet hang just upon the middle of your Square, perpendicular, and your eye looking through two sights, or two Pins at A. and C. or over the ends of the Square, thus look to the very top of the Building at X.

(See Fig. 8, 9.)

Which found, with a Line and Plummet from your Eye at C, let fall to the Ground at D, measure the length of that Line, and adde it to the height, that Length to E; then measure the distance from E. to the foot of the Altitude, as at Y, and that (if your Ground be level) is the height of of X. Y.

Or take the Level from your Eye to the height, and adde that which is below the Level to the Height, &c. as the Line C. F. shew­eth.

To find the height of a Tree, &c. by a straight Staffe, or by a Line and Plummet, the Sun shining, the Altitude perpendicular, and the Ground Level; if not, you must make the end of both the shadows level to each foot, which is soon done.

As if I should take the Level of B. at C. finding the very top of the shadow to End there, I measure the Distance from C. to B. and find it 60 foot; then at that very instant I set up a stick perpendicular, as E. D. 12 foot long, which I find to cast a shadow just 9 foot; and then the Rule orders it self thus: As 9 foot to 12, so 60 foot to 80, which you will find true, if you work it by Logarithmes, or by Rule and Compass thus; Set one point on 9, extend the other to 12, that Ex­tent will reach from 60 to 80: Or if you work it by Natural Arith­metick: as 9 is to 12, so 60 to 80.

(See Fig. 10.)

The same may be done by Line and Plummet.

AS for making of Walks in Gardens, I shall not speak of that in this place, because I have resolved to keep my walk without the walls: there are several Books of Gardening that have many Drafts and Knots in them, but they be all done by ghess, and none of them fitted to a scale, to inform what Ground they be most proper for; so that they be as fit for Butter-Prints as for Knots in a Garden.

Most Walks that are made abroad, they either terminate, or end, or lead to the Front of a House, or Door, or Garden-gate, or other Gate, High-way, or Wood, &c. Now if you would make a Walk from any one of these, and have resolved upon the Center or Middle Line of the Walk, as the Middle of a Door in the Front of a house, or the like, there pitch up a straight stake, and then from the square of the Front, &c. raise a Perpendicular from this Stake, and at a con­venient distance in this perpendicular Line, set up another stake; let these two stakes be two little stakes at first, but that at the Centre al­wayes the highest; these two stakes being thus fixed, and you fully concluding them to be in the Mid-line, then come to the Centre-stake, and having in readiness a Quantity of Stakes, according to the Length of your Walk, bid one of your assistance go as far as you can well see back-sight and fore-sight, and there by the motion of your hand or hat, and his own back-sight, let him fix upright one stake as exactly as may be in the Line, then take up the two little stakes, and at the Cen­tre fix in a stake six foot high, straight and upright, with paper on the top, and exactly in the place where the little stake stood: Thus ha­ving got two stakes placed (the Middle-stake and the Centre-stake,) you may if your Walk be level, and the ground clear, and the Walk not above one mile long, set up one stake at the End, in the Mid-line; looking over the head of that stake and the other, moving it till these three stakes be in a Right Line; so may you have the middle line of your walk by these three stakes exacter than by more: for the fewer stakes you use in your mid-line, the better; because that if you be but [Page 136] once a little amiss, the more stakes are used, you will be so much the further out of the right way.

And note, it is better to take your sight over the head of your stakes, than to look by their sides; therefore you must have the Center stake highest, the next a little shorter, and so the next shorter than that, &c. but if your Ground be not level, then order your stakes accordingly, as thus:

And if your Ground be not level, or be of such a length, that you cannot well see from End to End, then you must place down more stakes, viz. between the Middle-stake and Centre-stake one, and be­tween the Middle and End-stake one, if need require more. I have oft made use of a sight-stake, which I had only to find the place where my other stakes should stand; this stake was made with a slit in the head half a foot deep, which I looked through over the heads of the rest, till I found the place where to set my stake right in the Mid-line: It is of good use, and Fig. 13. may somewhat represent it; you may make it to slide up and down, the better to come to the Level of the head of the stakes.

(See Fig. 13.)

When you take sight, to set any stake true in a Line with others, stand at a little distance with your Eye from the head of the stake, so shall you set it Exacter in the Line than when your Eye touches the head of the stake; set your stake so that you may onely see three stakes in a Line: let your Walk be of what length it will.

Having thus staked out your Mid-line, strain a Line in this Mid-line, and lay a square to that Line, so set off the breadth of your Walk ex­actly square to your Middle-line, then set up stakes (as you did) against every stake in the Middle of the Walk, and when you have got the Lines true, where your Trees must stand, then drive down Oak-stakes in the Line to the head, and then it is but putting down high stakes by these when you come to set your Trees.

Then having resolved on the distance to set your Trees at, and pro­vided good store of small stakes, take your Chain (and not a Line, for that will retch and shrink) and with your help set little stakes down­right in this Line, and square where you would have every Tree to stand, these stakes are to make your holes by, which I would have at least three foot wide, and two foot deep, and the holes made a Quar­ter of a Year before you set your Trees; if it were a year 'twere the better, keeping the Mould turn'd over now and then, and mixing it with Earth or Dung, if need be; then when the time of Planting is come, begin betimes; however, on dry ground; set up Stakes by every [Page 137] Oak-stake you left in the Row before, having pruned the Roots and Heads to an equal height, set them right one Tree against another square.

And if your Trees be not all of one Size, set the greatest first, right one against another, and so lesser and lesser by degrees, minding that both Rows go on square together; and be sure you mind to let your Trees be at equal distance from End to End; then if you have a point fixed at both Ends, you must run over that distance you resolve to plant your Trees at, before you set your Stakes, and if you find it is over or short of equal distances, then must you adde or substract this odde open to or from the rest, to make them all of equal distance. See Chap. 33.

Now having your Trees and all things in Readiness, set them by the Stakes standing in the Rows, minding to set every Tree to range with the Stakes by back-sight and fore-sight: Cover and part the Roots with fine Mould; and when they be all covered, lay on some Rotten Dung over that Mould, and then cover that Dung with a little Mould: this Dung will keep them from friezing in Winter, and from drying too much in Summer; and also well prepares the water for the Roots. Thus having set them, take care to fence them in at such places where need is, so will you as well as I reap a great satisfaction, if you let not the Dung touch the Roots.

Do not mask a fine Front, nor vail a pleasant Prospect (as too ma­ny doe) by making the Walks too narrow. If you make any Walk that leads to any pleasant Front of a House, or other Object; if it be but half a mile long, let it be at least forty foot wide, but if longer, more, as 50 or 60 foot wide, or the breadth the length of your Front; But if you be for walks of shade, then make three Walks, the mid­dle one 40, the two out-side walks each 20 foot, or 50 and 25 the out-side walks, or divide your Front into two parts, and let the middle be as broad as both the side-walks; so that if you make three walks toge­ther, let the middle one be as much as both the other, so will the Trees range much the better, whether you set them square or triangular; but however keep to one of them, though I think the square to be the best, because then four Trees in the four Rows end all together, fit to end in either Semicircle, segment of a Circle, Oval, Triangle, or Circle; for all walks of any Length, especially in Parks, should end in some one of these Figures, or lead into some other walk; but where they doe fall into another walk, there should be a Circle to receive them, or else they seem much defective.

I shall now endeavour to shew you how to make a walk through a [Page 138] wood, and then I will give you an Example of some of the Figures that Walks ought to end in.

Suppose you were to clear a Walk or Line through a Wood, for to run the Mid-line true about three yards wide; having the Centre given, doe as before, run your Mid-line as far as you can into the wood, and at one yard distance on each side the Mid-line, two other Lines; Run these Lines also as far as you can into the wood, keeping them just one yard distant, and setting up stakes (as you proceed into the wood) with large whites, all of a bigness, as half a sheet of white Pa­per on every Stake spread abroad; when any of these three Lines come to a Tree, run on the other two till you are past the Tree, and then set him off again in its place, parallel to his fellowes, and so proceed till you be through the Wood, marking that wood which must goe down; then when your under-wood is stocked up, run out your Line again; still when you come to a Tree, set off Parallels; and when past, set off into your true Line again: This way I cut a straight Line through the Wood-walk at Cashiobury, from the North front, over one wall and several Hedges, neer a mile long, and when I came to stake it out true, there was at the very end not four foot difference, as the ingenious Hugh May Esq; can witness, and several others.

This way of staking out a walk by three Lines is worth your practi­sing; in setting out of Walks that go through Hedges or Bushes, be sure to carry on the Mid-line of the walk, and the two Lines where the Trees must goe, together; now and then measuring to see if they keep their equal distances, and that which is amiss you will soon find, and may as soon rectifie it again.

There is another way of carrying a straight Line through a Wood, which Reason taught me, and by Experience I have found true: the place where the middle of the walk should poynt to, being given, there hang up a large Candle and Lanthorn, and having found the Mid-line some 20, 30, or 40 yards from that, there hang up another, they must both hang pretty high, but let that next the House or Center be the higher; having thus placed your two Lights, and in a clear calm night (but not too light) goe with your Man to the further side of the wood, till you make both these Lights in one Line, and then walk on, keep­ing them so, marking the Trees on each side of you, quite through the Wood, order them to be cut down at leisure; so shall you have a straight Line cut through the Wood.

But if you are to make a walk from Gate to Gate, so that you are tied to such a Center at each End, if your walk be so that you can see from End to End, it is then but setting up two Stakes, one at each end, [Page 139] by the sight of which cause a third to be set up in the middle: But if you cannot see to the far End, for Hill, Wood, or the like, then you must cause an high Pole, with a white on the top, to be set up at the End, by that and your Centre-stake cause your Assistants to set up as many as you think convenient in the Mid-line; but if that wood be so▪ high that you cannot see a high Pole at the End, then run it over as near as you can by ghess, take notice of the Length, and of your Error at End and ¼ and ½ and ¾ each; at a Quarter of the Length of your walk set off a quarter of your Error, &c. And thus bring your Line till it ranges exactly from one point to another, from Gate to Gate; then set off the two Lines where the Trees must goe (as is before shew­ed) by the square, and if for three walks, then the four Rows of Trees; if there be three Walks, let the Middle-walk be just as broad as both the other, which is the best Form; or else all three of equal breadth, so may you set your Trees not onely square, but they will answer one another several wayes beside, as square from A. to B. and other wayes, as B. to C. and to D. so that every Tree must keep his Row, Range, Square, and equal Distance, &c.

(See Fig. 14.)

The pricked Lines shew how the sight will take the Trees as square from A. to B. and Angle-wayes from C. to B. or C. to D. &c.

Thus have I shewed you how to stake out the Mid-line, and the two side-lines of your walk: I wish Sir E. T. Sir W. B. and Sir R. B. had seen these Directions before they had planted their walks; I do judge they then would have done them better: For Errors in planting make too many worthy Persons forbear.

Now as for the Figures which walks ought to end in, I have named them before; and if you observe, most Plants (especially Trees) which make your Walks, the most of them end in a Circular figure; and therefore I will shew you some wayes how Walks ought to end in a Circle: For a walk ending bluntly without any Figure or entring in­to another, may be compared to a Tree with the Head off, and what difference there is, let those which well observe the Objects of Nature judge. Let the Circle be three times the Breadth of your walk, if con­veniently you can, or bigger if you have Room.

After you have found the Mid-line, and resolved upon the Centre, as at A. and of the Bigness of your Circle, next consider of the Di­stance of your Trees round the Circle; run that distance over first, and if you find an odde Tree, let it stand in the Mid-line, and in the Cir­cumference, as at B. but if no odde Tree, then let the Mid-line pass [Page 140] tween two Trees, adding or substracting the odde Inches, till you find the equal distance your Trees must stand at, &c.

(See Fig. 15.)

Let the Trees in your Circle stand not much above half the distance that the Trees are in the Rowes, as in the last they were 16 foot [...]ere, Trees in the walk 24 foot, but in the Oval thicker, that they may shew the Figure the better; A fine Tree in the Centre of all Circles doth well.

(See Fig. 16.)

Two Walks meeting in a Point, let that be the Centre of the Circle, as at A. and there a Tree.

Two Walks crossing one another, where the Mid line meets let that be the Centre of a Circle, as B.

Note: That if your Circle be divided into two parts, by Walks, as the Circle A. find a distance that the Trees in each part may stand as neer that distance as may be, there they be near 11 foot both, and the Circle B. neer 10 foot asunder.

Now the smaller parts the Circle is put into, the thicker set your Trees round it; as B. is put into four parts by the two Walks crossing it; set these parts the thicker that they may shew the Figure the better.

Of three Walks going up to a Circle, as they doe to the Bowling-Green at Cashiobury (which Green is 80 yards, or 240 foot diameter, with a border 16 foot wide, planted with three Rowes of Spruce-firs, set in the year 1672. being set Circular and Triangular,) see the Figure: there are 90 trees in the outer Row, and 90 Trees in the innermost Row, and 89 in the middle Row, which is 269 trees; I lost not one of these, except one that was stollen.

(See Fig. 17.)

To plant such a Border, first with a Line on the Centre B. mark out the Circle where the inner Row should goe, then set two Trees in the Circle, and in the Rows of the VValk, as at A. A. then having re­solved of the distance to set them at, run that Distance over from A. A. and the odde Inches or parts adde or substract, according to the Num­ber of the Opens, to or from the Measure you first resolved on, as is shewed before, &c.

1. Next I shall shew you some wayes how VValks may come into or end in a Semi-circle, or Segment of a Circle, &c. as A. being a Gate, [Page 141] B. C. is a Hedge or Pale, A. is the Centre of the middle of the VValk and Circle.

(See Fig. 18.)

Or thus: The Centre at A. and then three Trees or more to go to the Pale parallel to the Walk, as 1, 2, 3.

TO speak of all sorts of Figures will be far beyond my intentions, there being so very many irregular Figures which have many un­equal sides and angles; but they may all be brought into parts of some of the Figures following, and Measured like them; I shall shew you one Useful Prob. especially to make your Ovals by, whether they be made from two Centres, or four; and then I shall touch at some Su­perficial Figures. ( See Fig. 30.)

Suppose three pricks or points given (so they be not in a strait line) to find a Centre to bring them into a Circle. This may be done seve­ral ways, viz. either by Circles, or by raising Perpendiculars; as if the points at A. B. C. were to be brought into a Circle: Draw a line from A. to B. and in the middle of that line raise a Perpendicular, as the line D. E. which you may soon do; for if you open your Com­passes to any convenient distance, and set one point in B. draw the Arch 1. and 2. then setting one point in 4. draw 3. and 4. where these cross draw the line E. D. Do the same with the points B. C. and where the two Perpendicular lines meet is the Centre, as at F, &c. Superficial Figures that are irregular and right-lined, are such whose Sides or Angles are un-equal, of which some are triangles, or triangular Figures; and here Note, that there are five sorts of triangles, which are thus Named and known:

• 1. Isocheles hath two of the sides unequal.
• 2. Scalena hath the three sides unequal.
• 3. Orthygone hath one Right and two Acute Angles.
• 4. Ambligone hath one Obtuse and two Acute Angles.
• 5. Oxygone hath three Acute Angles, or Equilateral triangles.

(See Fig. 31.)

Every triangle is half of a square, whose Length and Breadth is equal to the Perpendicular, and Side cut by the Perpendicular; as is plain in the first Figure shewed by the pricked lines: therefore to Measure [Page 149] any triangle, raise a Perpendicular from the Base, to the greatest An­gle:

Then Multiply the whole Base by half the Perpendicular, or the whole Perpendicular by half the Base, and the Product is the Content. Or thus, take the whole Base and whole Perpendicular, and Multiply one by the other, the half of that Summe is the Content of the triangle, &c.

Square or Quadrangular Figures are these following.

• 1. A Geometrical square; this hath Right Angle, and sides equal.
• 2. An Oblong-square, which hath equal opposite sides and Rectang.
• 3. A Rhombus, hath equal Sides, and unequal Angles.
• 4. A Rhomboides, having unequal Sides, and Angles opposite, equal.
• 5. Trapezia, Are all other four-sided Figures.

(See Fig. 32.)

The first is Measured by Multiplying one of the Sides in its self. In the Second the length Multiplyed by the breadth, gives the Con­tent:

The three last may be turned into two triangles each, and so Mea­sured as is before said.

Polygones are these Figures following: as the end of a Tree hewed into five equal sides, this is called a Pentagone; of six sides, Hexagone; seven sides, Heptagone, eight sides, Octagone; nine sides, Enneagone; ten sides, Decagone; twelve sides, Dodecagone. To Measure any of these, take half the perimeter (that is, half the Compass about) and the perpendicular drawn from the Centre to the middle of any one of the sides, Multiply the one by the other, and it giveth the Content.

Circular Figures are these, which be thus Named:

• 1. The Circle, is near Equal to a square, made of ½ Diameter, and ½ Circumference.
• 2. The Semi-Circle, to a square made of half the Arch line, and ½ Semi-diameter.
• 3. The Quadrant, or fourth part of a Circle.
• 4. The Segment, Arch, or part of a Circle.

The first is Measured by Multiplying the Semi-circumference by the Semi-diameter. The second, by Multiplying the Radius or Semi-dia­meter by ¼ of the Circumference of the whole Circle. The third, by Multiplying the Radius by ⅛ of the Circumference of the Circle that it was made of. The fourth by Multiplying the Radius by ½ the length of that Arch-line: thus have you the Content or Area of each.

To find the Diameter of any Circle, or the Circumference, by ha­ving [Page 150] one given; the lowest Number is, as 7 is to 22. so is the Dia­meter to the Circumference; or as 22 is to 7. so is the Circumfe­rence to the Diameter.

THE Line A is Required to be Divided into two such parts, which shall have proportion the one to the other, as the Line B. hath unto C.

(See Fig. 36.)

Make an Angle of any Quantity, as A. B. C. and let the side A. B. be Equal to the given Line A. then set the Line C. from A. to E. and the Line B. from E. to C. and from the point E. draw the Line E. D. parallel to C. B. cutting the Line A. B. in D. so shall B. D. bear the same proportion to D. A. as the Line B. hath to the Line C. this is the Golden Rule by Lines.

HOles for to set Trees in are seldome made under one foot Diame­ter, or above eight foot Diameter; the Depth may be redu­ced to a foot deep.

The Rules to measure any Circle by, are the same, which is thus: To take the Semi-circumference and the Semi-diameter, and multiply these Halfs, the one by the other, sheweth the superficial Content or Area of that Circle.

This you may work either by the Pen, or Line of Numbers: As by the line of Numbers thus: The Diameter being four foot, extend the Compasses from 1. to 4. (the Diameter;) keep your Compasses fixed, and alwayes on the Number 7854 set one point, and turn twice to the Right hand: (but if they fall off at the End at the second turn, then must you set them on the first part of the Line when you have turned them once, &c.

Having taken the distance of 1 to 4. and set one poynt on the stand­ing Number 7854: the other poynt goes to 31 and neer ½, thence if you turn another turn it will go off from the Line, therefore you must find the poynt 31 and near ½ on the first part of the Line, and set one poynt there, the other will reach to 12 and about 58/100, which tells you, that in a Circle of 4 foot Diameter there are 12 superficial square feet and a half, and better.

Now to work it according to the Rule above, by the Line, if you multiply the Semi-diameter by the Semi-circumference, it giveth the Content, the same way I shall do it with my Pen:

IN Board, Glass, Land, &c. we onely took notice of the Length and Breadth, which was sufficient to find the superficial Content; but to measure solid Bodies we must take notice of the Length, Breadth and Depth. Most of solid Figures are measured by finding first the superficial Content of the Base, or one End, and multiplying that by the Length, if both Ends alike; but if tapering, then by ⅓ of the Length; and as superficial Measure hath 144 square Inches in one foot, and 72 square Inches in half a foot, and 36 square Inches in a Quar­ter: So

• In solid Measure 1728 square Inches make one foot,
• And 8.64 square Inches make half a foot,
• And 432 square Inches make a quarter of a foot.

For every Inch square is like a Die, and so is a foot of solid Measure supposed to be; for what it wants either in Breadth or in Thickness, it must have in Length; so that in what form soever your solid Body is, that you measure, there must be 1728 solid Inches to make a foot; for 12 (the side of a foot) multiplyed by 12 gives 144 for one side; and 144 multiplyed by 12 (another side) gives 1728, the Cube-square Inches in a Cube-square foot.

Now to find the solid Content of any piece of Timber or Stone that hath the sides equal, first find the superficial Content of the End, in [Page 171] Inches and parts; and multiply that by the Length in Inches, the Pro­duct is the Content in solid Inches: Then divide that summe by 1728 (the Inches in a foot,) the Quotient sheweth you the Content in solid feet, and what remain are Inches. If you would work this by the Line of Numbers, the Rule is thus:

• Extend the Compasses from one to the Breadth in Inches;
• The same Extent will reach from the Depth to the Content of the End:
• Then extend the Compasses from one to this Content of the End;
• Keep your Compasses fixed, and that Extent will reach from the Length to the Content in solid Inches.

But if your solid Figure hath both Ends alike, and in form of a Re­gular Polgone; that is, a piece of Timber hewed into 5, 6, 7 or 8 equal sides, &c. which is called by some A prisme: then take the Semi-circumference, and multiply that by the Radius or Semi-diameter, that product by the Length giveth the Content.

But if your solid Figure be a Cylinder, that is, a round piece of Timber or Stone; having both Ends equal Diameter, as a Rol­ler, &c. here take the Semi-circumference, multiply it by the Semi-diameter, and the Area of that by the Length giveth the solid Con­tent.

Now many of the Bodies of our Timber-trees will be near this form of a Cylinder, but Custom hath got such footing (though very false,) that men will not measure their Timber the true way, but will still keep their Error, which is, to gird the middle of the Tree about with a Line, and take the fourth part thereof for the true square, and so measure it as a four-square piece of Timber; but how false that is, may appear by the ensuing Tables. Whoever is pleased to trye, will find, that there may be four Slabs taken off, to bring that to a Square, and that squared piece then will be near equal to the Measure they first measured the piece of Timber by; so that when they have brought their piece square by hewing or sawing, they then have the Measure that it was measured for when it was Round.

But several men have demonstrated this false Rule to be false near ⅓, as Mr. Wing, Mr. Philips, and others: Yet Custom doth and will keep its Road.

I have already shewed how to measure Timber by the Customary way, by the Line of Numbers, in Chap. 35, and 36. before-go­ing, and for further satisfaction I referre you to these Tables fol­lowing.

HAving the Length and Breadth of the Oval given you, you may take the whole Length and half the Breadth, as is shewed before in bringing three Pricks into a Circle, and from the Centre of these three poynts draw half the Oval, and so likewise the other half, as you see the Oval in the Figure drawn; for the poynt F. is the Centre of the Arch A B C, and the Arch A G C is made by the same Rule, and [Page 177] where the Line F H. crosseth the Line A E C, as at K, there is the Centre of the breadth B G, and the End A; from the Centre K may you make the Ends of your Oval Round as you please; so that from four Centres you may make the Ends of your Oval round as you please; but if they be made from two Centres, as that is, then will the Ends be more Acute.

Or you may make your Oval thus: Having resolved on the breadth, draw the sides from Centres in the Mid-line of the breadth, as before; then set up two sticks exactly in the Mid-line of the Length, at equal distance from each End, then hold the Line at one, and turn the Line to the side of the Oval, and then on the other side the stick, with the same length, so may you make the Ends of your Oval as Round as you please; for the nearer you place these sticks in the Centre of the length and breadth of the Oval, the nearer Round your Oval is made, even till you come to a Circle: This way your Ingenious Work-men make their Ovals in small works, as your Plaisterers, Joyners, &c. and it is a good way, and so common that I need not say more to teach how to make an Oval of any bigness; but here I shall take occasion to shew the Figure of one at Cashiobury now made.

(See Fig. 46.)

To measure this Oval, which is 28 Rod long, and 19 Rod broad, as 'tis now staked out at Cashiobury, intended for a Kitchen-Garden: This Oval being made of 2 Segments of a Circle whose Semi-diameter is 15 Rod, as 'tis found by making the Oval; it being the Centre­poynt of each Arch-line of this Oval, as the lines F A. F B. and F C.

Now, to find the length of one of these Arch-lines, is shewed be­fore; which I find to be 18 Rod, the half length of one, which is shew­ed by the line D D. so the whole length of one Arch is 36, and both Arches round the Oval is 72 Rod.

Now, take the ½ of one of the Arch lines, which is 18, and the Se­mi-diameter of that Arch, which is 15 Rod; Multiply the one by the other, and it is 270 Rod, which is the Figure A. B. C. F. [...] that is half of the Oval; and the Triangle A. F. C. which must be substracted out of the 270, then the Semi-Oval will be 192 Rod.

For the Base A. C. is 28 Rod, which is the length of the Oval; and the Perpendicular of the Angle, which is E F. is 5. 57.

Now, half the Base (which is 14) Multiplied by [Page 178] the whole Perpendicular 5 57/100 gives 77 98/100, which is 78 Rod ferè: this taken from 270 (the Area of the Figure A. B. C. F.) there then remains 192 Rod, which is half [...] of the Oval; that doubled is [...] 384 Rod, which being Divided by 160, sheweth that the Con­tent of this Oval will be 2 Acres and 64 Rod.

But if your Oval be round at the end, as your Ovals are that be made with 4 Centres, then they be more difficult to be Measured; however [...] these Rules are sufficient.

An Oval is no ill Figure for a Garden; for if the Garden-wall be an Oval, and the length of the Oval point North and South, as the afore-mentioned Oval doth (A. being the South point, C. the North) then may such a Wall be Planted with Trees, both in-side and out-side, and have never a Tree stand to the North Aspect; for it you make your going in at the South end of your Oval, then will those 2 Trees or Tree that stood on the in-side, or were to stand there, be removed from the North aspect to the North-East, and North-West, according to the largeness of your Gate; so will every 2 Trees on the in-side of your VVall tend nearer the South-point, till they come to the point C. which is South; and then the Trees on the out-side, every 2 Trees will fall nearer the North-point at C. till you leave that point of the Oval between 2 Trees, so will not one Tree stand to the North aspect, and but few near the North aspect; the like whereof no other Figure can do, that I can think of.

An Oval with the ends pointing East and VVest is no ill Figure for a Garden; for the walls in this, as in the other, are not so subject to oppose the winds as straight walls be, therefore not so blasting, as you may well conceive.

2. Ovals on each side the Front of your House, would be no ill Prospect, but in many things very convenient; these being at equal distance from the middle of your Front, and poynting upon your Lawn, &c.

IF it be a sheet of Dutch Paper, about 21 Inches long, and the length of the Draft you would draw is 402 foot long, and you would draw it as large as you can on this sheet, that your work may shew it self the better, and yet not to go off of the Paper; now to know of what Scale of so many parts in one Inch to draw your Draft by, do thus: Divide the Length of your Draft by the length of your Paper, and the Quotient shews how many parts that Inch must be di­vided into, to draw this Draft by; as,

SUppose a piece of Ground or Field to be 30 Acres, and I measure this Plot by a Scale of 10 in the Inch, and by that Scale it makes but 17 Acres and 3 Roods, or 17 Acres and [...] now the Question is, What Scale was it drawn by? The work is somewhat difficult by na­tural Arithmetick, but by Artificial, and the Line of Numbers more easie.

THis Line commonly on your two foot Rule is in two parts, and each of these two parts divided into 9 unequal parts, which be called Primes, or Integers, or whole Numbers, and are distinguished by these Figures; the first part to the left hand hath 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10: Now this Middle one, which I call 10, is also but one, as the line may be read: and then the second part to the Right hand is also 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10: Now this last part I shall for di­stinction call the Second Part, and then each of those Integers from the first one to the middle, is subdivided into 10 unequal parts, and from the middle one to 10 at the end of the Second part, between eve­ry [Page 184] two Figures, according to the same order that the other were di­vided into 10 parts; and each of these 10 parts should be divided into 10 parts more, if the Rule were long enough to bear them; but on every two-foot Rule that hath this line well made on it, they be from the Middle one, to two in the Second part, first divided into 10 parts, and then each of these into 10 other parts; and were the Rule long enough: these should be divided into 10 other parts; but to read a summe of a Thousand, you must estimate or ghess at the Unite, so that you may read any summe under a thousand, expressely, from the first one to 10; in the Second Part you may read 199 expressely, the middle one being 100, then 9 tenths is 90, and 9 tenths of them tenths is 9, that is, 199; which is the Division next to 2 in the second part of your Rule.

By this you may observe, that the longer your Rule is, the more exactly you may number or read a great summe, especially if you understand Arithmetick; as may be seen more fully in the Rules of Arithmetick following.

YOu may observe, that the Figures on this line, as in the preceding Chapter, are, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10; Now the same poynt or Division on the Rule, which hath 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, &c. may be read 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, &c. or they may be called 100, 200, 300, 400, 500:

By this you may perceive, that the larger Numbers you have to number, any of those Figures will admit of a larger Denomination; so that if you be to read any summe from one to 10, you have it in the Second part, for then the first one is one tenth, the middle one is one, the End one is 10; but if you be to read a Number of three Figures, (as any is under 1000) then the first one is 10, the middle one 100, the End one 1000.

THe Rule is, first find one of your numbers, then count so many as the number or numbers are forward, that is to the right hand, and that is the Sum. Take notice that your sum or sums must (if they be fractions) be Decimal fractions.

Example, In whole numbers, 55 and 15, first find 55, then count 15 forward, and the point is 70; for adde 5 to 55 it maks 60, and count 10 forward, the poynt is 70.

Example, In 3 whole numbers 60, 57 & 35; first find 60, then 5 tens forward is 110, and 7 of a tenth, tis then 117, then from that point count 35, and the point or Division sheweth 'tis 152.

Example, A whole number and a Decimal, as 6 and 9/10 find 16 on either part of your Rule: then count 9 of the 10 Divisions, that is be­tween 6 & 7, which is one Division short of 7, and that is the point, which is 6 and 9 tenths, or thus 6 9/10, or 6.9; it also may be read 6 90/100 for tis the point of that also.

Example, 2 whole numbers and 2 fractions, as 60, 80, and 70.50; I take 60, and count 7 tenths forward, which is at the point 130; [Page 187] Not here the middle one being read 100, then 3 tenths forward are for 30; then for the 80 and 50, which is 130, I count one tenth more, which then is 131, and being the Divisions on the Line fall so close, you must estimate or ghess the 90/100 or 'tis but adding the 2 last figures together, and keep the unite in your minde, to add to your other sum, and so you may be exact; add 50 and 80 together, it makes 130, keep 30 in mind as in this Example, I neglect the 2 Cyphers and add 8 and 5 together, which is 13, or add 80 and 50 make 130; now them 2 Cyphers ad­ded together make but one Cypher added to 13, is 130; that is, one Integer, and 30 of another; but if the 80 and 50 had been only 8 and 5, then 10 had been the Integer, and the 3 had been 3/10 of one; and note this, that if the Integer, or whole sum that the fraction belongs to, in Decimal fractions, I say, if the Integer be 10, then from one to 10 is the Decimal fraction of that; and if the Integer be a 100 then from one to a 100 is the Decimal of that; if a 1000, then from one to a 1000, the Decimal of a 1000 may be; and so of greater sums: so that in Decimals there is no improper fraction, as is in your vulgar fractions, for there you may find the denominator more than the numerator if the fraction be a proper fraction, but if an improper fraction, then the Denominator less than the Numerator; as may be seen at large in most books that treat of fractions; see Mr. Wingates Arithmetick natural: so that decimal fractions may be expressed without the denominator by fix­ing before the decimal or broken number propounded, as 12 35/100 is thus, 12.35; and 2 98/100 thus, 2.98 &c. or 2 5/10 or 2 ½ may thus be writ, and is in Decimals writ 2.5, that is 2 and a half; for in this Example the In­teger is 10, and then 5 being half 10, so 'tis 2 and a half.

I have been large on this Rule, because I would write to those that do not know any thing of these Rules, as well as to those that be well ver­sed in them; my desire is to learn the one, and to shew the other that which I could never see yet in any Book, viz. new Examples.

THe Rule is, first find the point which the great Numbers make, then count the least number from that point, towards the left hand, the Remainder is the other Number.

[Page 188] Example of two Numbers, as 12 from 144, first I find 144, there I set one point of my compass, and count to the left hand 12; then read­ing the point that remains, I find it to be 132.

Example, of 3 Numbers; suppose you were to substract 8 and 19 from 800, add 8 and 19 together, which is 27, then find the point 800, then count 2 tenthes and 7 of ten from the point 800, to the left hand, this sheweth the point 773, which is the Question: This rule is seldom used on the Line, therefore I shall say no more of it, but come to the most useful rules on the Line, viz. Multiplication, Division, the Rule of 3 &c.

THis Rule is thus; Extend the Compasses from 1 to one of the num­bers to be Multiplyed, the same Extent will reach from the other number to the content.

Example, If you be to multiply 6 by 8; extend the Compasses from one to 6, keep the Compasses fixed, and that same Extent will reach from 8 to 48, the Content; or if you set one point of your Compasses on 1, and extend the other to 8 at that exent, if you set one point of your Compasses on 6, the other point will reach to 48, the content; as was before described.

Note that your Rule must be divided into 10 equal parts, and these 10 parts each of them into 10 other equal parts; thus will your foot be divided into a 100 equal parts, and thus must your yard, pole, &c. be divided; then will these parts answer the Line of Numbers which is a a decimal line.

Example 2d. If a stone or board be 14 Inches broad, and 30 Inches long, how many Inches are there in that stone, board, &c? Extend the Compasses from 1 to 14, the same extent will reach from 30 (the length) to 420, the content in superficial Inches.

But if you would know how much of this bredth will make a foot square of board, glass, or stone, the rule is this; as the breadth in Inches is to 144 the superficial Inches in one foot, that Extent will reach [Page 189] from one to the length of one foot in Inch-measure.

Example 3d. Set one point of your Compasses on 14 (the breadth,) extend the other to 144; that extent will reach from one to 10 and near 3/10, and so much makes a foot long, at 14 Inches broad, superfi­cial Measure: To prove this, if you multiply 14 by 10 3/10, the pro­duct will be 144 2/10; so it is but 2 of 10, or one fifth part more.

But the most customary way to measure Board, Glass, Stone, or any thing that is measured by superficial Foot-measure, is, by Inch-mea­sure and Foot-measure together. And the Rule is this: As 12 (the side of a foot square) is to the breadth in Inches, so is the Length in Feet or Parts, to the Content in Feet or Parts.

Example 4. Shall be in the aforesaid Example, to make the Rule more plain: Set one poynt of your Compass alwayes on 12, extend the other to the breadth in Inches, which is 14, that Extent will reach from two foot and a half (which is 30 Inches) to near 3 foot, viz. to two foot 9/10 and better, as before.

But note, if the Breadth in Inches be more than 12, as in the last Example, then must you turn your Compasses from the Length in feet and parts to the Right hand; but if the breadth be less than 12 Inches, then must you turn your Compasses from the length in feet to the Left-hand: And because this Rule is the most used, see another Example, for this way most men do measure by.

Example 5. A Board ten Inches broad, and 6 foot long, how many foot are there in that Board? Extend your Compasses from 12 (the standing number) to 10 (the breadth in Inches,) that Extent will reach from 6 the length in feet (to the left hand) to 5 the Content in feet; for as 12 is to 10, so is 6 to 5.

Thus having shewed some Examples in superficial measure in Mul­tiplication, here I shall shew a few Examples in solid Measures; and first know, that you must take the superficial Content of the Base or End of the Piece of Timber or Stone, &c. whether it be Round, Square or Triangle, which you may do by Multiplication, as is before shewed; then multiply the Content of the Base by the Length of the piece, and the product giveth the solid Content of the piece.

Example Sixth. A piece of Timber 14 Inches Broad, and 10 Inches deep, and 30 Inches long, how many square Inches in that piece of Timber?

Set one poynt of your Compasses on one, extend the other to 10 (the depth;) that Extent will reach from 14 (the breadth) to 140, the Content of the Base.

Then set one poynt of your Compasses on one, and extend the other [Page 190] to 30 (the Length,) that same Extent will reach from 140 (the Content of the Base,) to 4200 the solid Content of the piece in Inches.

But if you would find the Content of this piece of Timber, or any other, in feet and parts, you may do it thus: Find the Content of the Base, as before; then as the square Inches in a foot ( viz. 1728,) is to the Content of the Base, so is the length in Inches, to the Content in feet and parts.

Example 7. How many feet and parts are there in the piece of the last Example, which was 14 Inches broad, and 10 Inches deep, and 30 Inches long; having found the Base, as before, to be 140, then extend the Compasses from 140 to 728, that same Extent will reach from 30 (the Length in Inches) to two foot and neer a half, viz. to two foot, 744 Inches; you must turn your Compasses from 30, towards the left hand.

But if you desire to know how much in length makes a foot, then the Rule is thus: As the Content of the Base is to 1728 (the Inches in a foot square) that same Extent will reach from 1 to the Number of Inches or parts which will make a foot at such a Length.

Example 8. Of the same piece of Timber mentioned in the last Ex­ample; the Base you may find (as before) to be 140, then extend the Compasses from 140 (the Base) to 1728, (the Inches in a foot square) that same Extent will reach from 1 to 12, and little more than 35/100; for if you multiply 12 35/100 by 140, the product will be 1729, which is but one more than the Inches in a foot. And here you may note the Error that many men commit in adding the Breadth and Depth toge­ther, and take the half of that summe for the true square; and the more the sides differ, the more they be mistaken.

The same Error is daily committed by those which measure Timber; for they take the Circumference in the middle of the piece of Round Timber, and one fourth part of that they take for the true square of the piece, which is altogether false, (as I said before) though Custom doth strongly uphold that error against Reason. But if it be a true squared piece of Timber, then you may measure it this way, very Readily; as,

Example 9. A piece of Timber 10 Inches square, and 16 foot long.

The Rule is this: Alwayes set one poynt of your Compasses on 12, extend the other to the side of the square in Inches or parts, that Ex­tent will reach from the Length in feet or parts, to a fourth Number, and from that Number to the Content in feet and parts; that is, it [Page 191] will reach from the Length of the piece of Timber in feet and parts, to the Content in feet and parts.

As thus, in this Example; Extend your Compasses from 12 to 10 (the side of the square in Inches) that distance will reach from 16 (the Length in feet) at two turns of your Compasses, to 11 foot, and a little above 1/10, viz, 11 foot and 192/1728. Be sure alwayes to remem­ber, that if your piece of Timber be less than 12 Inches square, then you must turn twice from the Length of the piece, to the Left hand; but if more than 12 Inches, then to the Right hand twice.

Now this being the way in use, I will shew one Example more: of a Tree 30 foot long, having the Circumference 60 Inches; now the fourth part of 60 is 15, which I take for the side of a square equal to that Circle, as is usually done, though not with truth alwayes.

Example 10. Then I extend my Compasses from 12 to 15 (the side of the Square in Inches) and that Extent will reach from 30 (the Length in feet) to near 47 feet, the Content; this is the customary way, but if you look into the Table, pag. 174, you may there see, that 60 Inches Circumference, one foot length gives 1.988, which mul­tiplyed by 30, gives 59 foot and 640; here also you see the error of the customary way; but of this I have said enough already, and there­fore shall give no more Examples now; but note this, that what is here said of Foot-measure, may also be applyed to Pole, Yard, or the like.

Having the Root given, by two turns of your Compasses, you may save two Multiplications, and find the square of that Root, and the Cube, &c. and so may you find as many Numbers as you please, in a continual Proportion.

Example 11. The Root being given, extend your Compasses from one to 12, that Extent will reach from 12 to 144, the same Extent will reach from 144 to 1728; so then, if 12 be the Root, 144 is the square of that Root, and 1728 the Cube of that Root, &c. but note, that when you extend your Compasses from 1 to 12, the next turn will go off the Line; therefore you must seek 12 at the beginning of the Line, to the left hand, and then turn from that 12; note this in all Cases wherein your Compasses go off the Line.

Thus having shewed you (the Root being given) readily to find the Cube, I will now shew you (the Cube being given) how to find the Root; and though this, and some other Examples before, be not done by Multiplication, yet because they depend one upon another, I do here shew them.

To extract the Cube-Root, the Rule is; divide the space between [Page 192] the Cube given, and 1, into 3 equal parts, and the distance of one of these 3 parts from 1, is the Root.

Example. 11. The Cube 64 being given, what is the Root? divide the Distance from 64. to one into 3 equal parts, one third part of that distance will reach from one to 4, the Root; for the first third part will reach from 64 to 16 the square, the 2d third part from 16 to 4 the Root, the third part from 4 to one, for 4 times 4 is 16, and 4 times 16 is 64; the same Rule observe for any other number.

Thus may you find the square of any Circle, or the end of a tree, the square equal to that Circumference, and so measure it as is before shew'd.

Example 12. Having the Circumference of a Tree, you would know the side of a Square equal to that Circumference, as, in the 10th. Example the Circumference was 60 Inches, now to find the Content in superficial Inches of such a Circle, the Rule is as is before shewd, as 22 is to 7, so is the Circumference to the Diameter; now if you Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7, that Extent will reach from 60 to 19. and 2/22, the Diameter, this Fraction may be turned into a Decimal Fraction, and so wrought, but being so small it is not worth minding in such operations as this: then if you take half the Diameter and ½ the Circumference, and multiply one by the other, or if you Extend your Compasses from one to 9 and ½, that Extent will reach from 30 to 285 the superficial content in Inches, then to find the square by the Line of Numbers, that is, to finde a Number which if Multiply'd in its self, makes this Summe; the Rule is, Extend your Compasses from 285 to one, and the middle between these 2 Numbers is 16 882/1000 very near, as here you may see; but first note, that if your Rule have but the Lines on it that most of your ordinary Rules have, that is, but 2 Lines on it as 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8 9; and 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10; then this Question may be some trouble to work on such a Rule; but if your Rule hath 4 parts or 6 parts, as a 6 foot Rule may have, then this Questi­on may be performed very readily, as you may hereafter better per­ceive; for if you take 285 in the second part of the Rule, then is the middle figure one, a 100; and the figure one at the end is 10; and the Rule is, that you must take the middle between 1 and 285, which here you cannot; for if you count the first one, one, the middle one is then 10. and the end one is 100, so then 285 is off from the Line; whereas if your Rule had another part added to it, then might you work, and read it very readily.

But to work it by this Rule, you must take the distance from 100 to 285, that is from the middle one to 285, then take half of this distance [Page 193] and add it to half the length of the Line, and the Compasses will reach from 10 in the middle to near 17 (the side of a square equal to 285) as you may see it here proved by the pen.

Here you may see that 16 882/1000 Multiplyed [...] by 16 882/1000, gives 285: and 001924/1000000, which Fraction being so small is not considera­ble.

Many other wayes there be to measure a Cyllinder, but this, after you have found the side of a square equal to the Circumfe­rence, Multiplyed by the length is suffici­ent, &c.

THe Rule is, as one is to the Divisor, so is the Dividend to the Quoti­ent; or as the Divisor is to the dividend, so is to 1 to the Quotient.

THis Rule, which by most is called the Golden Rule for its Excel­lent uses, is performed with much ease; only by 2 turns of your Compasses, and in working differs little from Division.

The Rules are, if 4 Numbers are proportional, their order may be so transposed that each of those terms may be the last in proportion, in this manner.

• 1. As the first is to the second, so is the third to the fourth.
• 2. As the third is to the fourth, so is the first to the second.
• 3. As the second is to the first, so is the fourth to the third.
• 4. As the fourth is to the third, so is the second to the first. See Mr. Oughtreds Circles of proportion pag. 77.

So that four proportional Numbers being desired to be known, if any three be given you may find the fourth.

As if 2, 8, 6, and 24. be the Numbers given, these Numbers may be so varyed (as is aforesaid) that if any three be given, you may find the fourth; Note,

First, If 2 costs, gives or requires 8, then 6 costs, gives, &c. 24.

Secondly, If 6 gives 24, then 2 will give 8.

Thirdly, If 8 require 2, then 24 will require 6.

Fourthly, As 24 is to 6, so is 8 to 2.

Fiftly, Or thus it may be, as 2 to 6, so is 8 to 24.

Here are five wayes that will teach you, if you have three Numbers given, to find out the fourth proportionable to them, but the first and last are most useful, and are many times good proofs one of the other.

THE Rule of Three Inverse is when the Number sought proceeds from the second term in the same proportion as the first, proceeds from the third.

[Page 197] And if the third Number be greater than the first, then will the fourth Number be less than the second: But if the third be less than the first, then the fourth will be greater than the second.

In this Rule if you multiply the first term by the second, and divide the Product by the third, the Quotient sheweth the fourth.

The first Number and the third must be of one Kind, and the second Number or middle Number of the three given, must be of the same kind with the fourth.

TO level any piece of Ground that you can see from side to side, or from the Middle to any side, goe into the middle, and there set up your Instrument, be it Water-level, or Ground-level with sights, and when you have pl [...]ced it so high as you may see over the highest part of the Ground, as half a foot, or a foot, then set a stake in the middle, the top exactly level with the sights; and one on the highest side, the top level with the middle stake; then turn the Level or Lood back sight, and set one Level with these two on the lowest ground: So have you three stakes in Line level: Keep your Level true to your Middle-stake, and turn your Level till it makes Right-angles with these three stakes, and set up two stakes at each side one Level with those three: So have you five stakes set true Level in two Lines; and if your Ground be large, you may set up two Rowes more by the Level▪ but in small Grounds 5 stakes is enow: Then may you lay by your Level, and looking over the head of one to the head of ano­ther, cause your Assistant to put down stakes between two and two, till you have set as many stakes level in your Ground as you think con­venient: Or you may have a Rule, and look over the edge of that, it being level with the head of the stake, to the head of the other, and put stakes down between you and the other stake, what Number you please.

Thus having staked out your Ground with all the stakes heads level, and half a foot higher than the highest part of your Ground; in some [Page 199] Ground the middle-stake and the stakes in the Cross-line will be the Level-line the Ground must be brought to; that is, abating the hill, and filling up the low-side to the Level of the Mid-line; but if your Ground be very uneven, then you must measure over all the stakes, and take them middle-high, for their mean Level, and by the Rule of Three proportion your Ground to that.

Suppose a Valley be 10 Pole long, and two foot deep from the straight Line, and there is a hill 5 Pole long, how many foot deep must I goe in that 5 Pole of the Hill, to fill up this Valley? This may be answered by the Rule of Three Inverse, or back Rule of Three: The Rule orders it self thus. As 5 is to 2, so is 10 to 4: So if you work it by the Line of Numbers, extend your Compasses from 5 to 2, that same Extent will reach from 10 to 4, so then you must goe 4 foot deep in such a Hill, to make good such a Valley as is before said.

Suppose you are to abutt the top of a Hill four foot deep and 1. 2 Pole from the top of that Hill, that 4 foot is to come out: this is easily performed, (though a Leveller to the best man in the Land did not understand it) set up a stake on the top of the Hill two foot or three foot long, above ground, and another at the same height where your depth comes out; three Rod from that set a stake down, till the head comes to be in a Line with these 2, and at that stake you must be one foot deep: At 6 Pole another as before, there you must be two foot deep; another at 9 Pole, there you must sink three foot. You may set more stakes at equal distances, which will direct you that you cannot goe amiss.

To make any Sloop, first line out your top and foot true, then if your Sloop be not very long, you may have a Frame of Wood made according to your Sloop, which will be as a Mould to trye your work by. Two foot Rise, in 6 foot Level is a good Proportion for a Sloop.

WHatsoever Apples you make your Syder of, let them hang on the Trees untill they be through Ripe, which you may know by these few infallible Rules: First, if you find the Kernels Brown, or the Seed rattle in the Apple, as in some they will; or if you see them begin to fall much in still weather, or if you find them to handle like a drye piece of wood, sounding in your hand if you toss them up; then you may go to gathering as fast as you please, so your Fruit be drye; observe that the greener your Fruit is, the sourer will your Syder be; therefore be not too forward in ga­thering.

For gathering your Apples, observe these Directions: Take care they be not too much bruised; for your bruised Fruit, if they be a little kept, will rott, and give your Syder an ill taste, and a high brown Colour, and not yield so well; for your bruised place of the Apple, if it doth not immediately rott, the Juice of that place will va­pour forth, and be a dry Red, yielding little Taste or Liquor, but some­times a bad taste.

But to the making of one Hogshead of Syder, there is required a great many Apples; as if they be good yielding Fruit, and not too long kept, some 18 or 20 Bushel will make a Hogshead; if not, as aforesaid, then 24 Bushels, or more, to one Hogshead: Therefore, though I would not have your Apple too much Bruised, yet I would not advise you to pick them by hand: But you may lay a Truss or two of Barly Straw under your Tree when you goe to gather them, and on that lay some Blankets (or the like) according to the Bigness of your Trees; thereon with Discretion shake your Fruit, letting not too many lie on at one time, but carry them to the Place where you intend they shall lie till you grind or beat them: Thus you may re­move your Straw and Blankets from Tree to Tree, as your plea­sure is.

[Page 201] Now for keeping them after you have gathered them, let it be in some house if you can with convenience, and on some dry boards or boarded flowers, but if it be an Earth-flower you must lay them on, first cover it with good dry straw, and so lay them on that, for if you lay them on the earth they will decay faster, and turn musty before they have done sweating; for 'tis observed that which is best to preserve Plants is the quite contrary to keep and preserve Fruit, for the holy Scripture telleth plain, that which a man soweth must first dye, before it take root to live and produce its kind.

Thus it may be with fruit lying on the ground, where the secret va­pours of the earth tend much to the death or dissolution of the fleshy part of the fruit, that the seed might the sooner be at liberty, to pro­duce its like in its several kinds; for Nature, or the secret providing power of the Almighty, is at all times, and in all places actuating and assisting every species to produce its kind; for any who hath but ob­served the Walnut or Chestnut, though one hath got his Fur Gown & the other his Noli-me-tangere Cloke, as to too of the senses, yet notwith­standing, when they be able to shift for themselves, (as I may say) then how willingly the Gown and Cloke is thrown aside, to venture boldly to the Earth, for to do as at first their parents did for them, but of this see further in the Chapters before; and since we are now speaking of one particular fruit, viz. Apples, of the time of their keeping be­fore you make them into Syder: a set time I cannot deliver, for your Summer Fruit will be ready to beat before your Winter Fruit: but as soon as you have seen them sweat, which will be in ten dayes, or a fortnight, then to beating or grinding of them as fast as may be, keeping your Fruit several, if you have enough to fill a vessel of one kind, if not, put such kinds together as be near ripe together, the Syder will ferment more naturally.

But let your winter fruit lye three weeks or a month before you beat or grind them: the greener your fruit is when gathered, let them lye the longer before you beat them: Thus when you have beaten or grinded your Apples: let them lye a night or 24 hours if you please before you press them, it will make your Syder have more of the Sack-Colour, and hinder it from Fermenting too much; and if your fruit be ripe to eat, or mellow, then put to every twenty Bushels of stampings some six gallons of clear water, put that on the top of the stampings as soon as you have beaten them; if your fruit be soft and mellow you may put more, if not, the less: this also will keep your Syder from fermenting too much, and though your Syder be weaker it will be much pleasanter: Therefore if your Apples be mellow before you [Page 20] beat them there will go so much of the fleshy substance of the Apple through the strainer or bag, with the Liquor that it will be hard to get this Lee separated from the Syder, before it begins to ferment, for the Liquor will endeavour to free it self of these little particles which when once separated from the united body, turneth to an earthy substance, and then the Liquor working hard to free it self of these then useless and decaying parts, and having no place to turn them out at, but at the bung, and it being contrary for these earthy parts to ascend upwards, causeth by its much fermenting, not only the strong, but also the pleasant Spirits to take their flight, and go into the great world to be ready to as­sist at another new generation, and so leave the Liquor both dead and of a foure taste, which when these higher Spirits are fled, then soureness doth master the taste in the Syder, which it receives from the gross Lees in the vessel; therefore if your Syder be made of mellow fruit, let it set­tle 24 hours in som Fatt or large vessel, that the gross Lees may settle to the bottom before you put it into your vessel, and then draw it off, leaving as much of this thick gross Lee behind as you can (which gross Lee you may put among your pressings for water-Syder) and if you think the Syder is yet so thick that it will work much, then draw it in­to another tub by a tap two or three inches from the bottom; and in this last tub let it settle so long as you think it is neer ready to work in your tub: for if it work in your tubbs then will you get but little of the gross Lees from it: you must keep it covered all the time it is in your tubs; for note the finer you put it up into your Vessel the less it will work or ferment, and the less it fermenteth the better will your Syder be; but if you should have child the Syder, as sometimes it may so happen in cold weather, that it doth not work at all, when you have put it into your barrel, or hogshead, but is thick, in such a case put to a hogshead a pint of the juice of Alehoof, with half the quantity of Isi [...]glass, and it will make it clear and fine; but if it do it not presently, do not despair, for it will ferment possibly in the spring or when the fruit blossoms that it was made on, the Spring after it was made.

Having observed these few Rules, then put it into your barrel or hogshead, and as soon as it hath done working, bung it up, there keep it till it is fit to bottle, which let it be when it is fine; for if you bottle it while it is thick, or not well settled, it will endanger your bottles, and not be so wholsom: but some do love to have their Syder cutting, counting it then the better; this may be performed if your Syder be fine by putting a little bit of Loaf-Sugar, in every bottle, when you bottle it, and thus more wholsom.

I am of the same opinion with Sir Paul Neal, that the oftner Syder [Page 203] by any accidental cause doth ferment, the worse it is; if twice it will be harder or sourer than if it had fermented but once: and if it ferment thrice it is still worse; therefore keep it if you can from fermenting or working too much, and also too often.

As for the sorts of Fruit the Redstrakes and Gennet Moyle, are the best counted; yet there be many sorts of fruit which if the Syder be well or­dered will be little inferior if not better: The Golden Pippin makes ex­cellent Syder; the Kerton Pippin, the Russet Harvy, Kentish Codlin, &c. makes good, or indeed any Apple that is not a Crab; for there be many sorts of Wildings that have a fine Winy Liquor, and the flesh of a hard, and not of a soft substance; for that Fruit, (let it be Pear or Apple) that hath the flesh soft, and is soon Mellow is not good for Perry or Syder; for such very soft Fruit doth break into so many small particles, that they spoil your Syder before they can be separated, but that Fruit that hath its flesh hard, that when you beat and press it, will flat down like a sponge, sooner then it will separate into little particles; and if it be kept beyond its natural time of being ripe, will grow tough but not Mellow, is the only Fruit for Syder and Perry, for by Sir Pauls leave it is not alwayes the best eating Apple or Pear that makes the best Sy­der or Perry, but such as aforesaid, no more than the best eating Pear is the best baked; and of this dayly experience sheweth the contrary.

Much more I could say concerning Syder, but if there were a whole Volume writ of it, yet the several seasons of years, the several sorts of Fruit and other accidents that happen, no man can advise you of be­fore, therefore let your reason teach you with what hath been said be­fore; but if you would see several mens opinions of the ordering of Sy­der, see Esquire Evelins Book, joyned to his Discourse of Forest-Trees.

To make your water Syder; take the stampings when you press them from your first Syder, and put them into tubs, and when you have a tub full, put to these stampings half as much water as you had Syder: if your Fruit be good and very ripe you may put more, if the contrary less; let the tubs be covered, and stand thus with the water and stampings together four or five dayes and nights: if it be cold wea­ther let them stand a week, then you may press the stampings and as soon as you have got as much as you think will fill a vessel, put it on the fire and scum it well, and when you find the scum begins not to rise very fast, then take it off from the fire and put it into Tubs or Coolers, to cool, and when it is cold then Tun it up, and when it hath done work­ing then bung it up, and in a months time it will be fit to drink; you may if you please boyl a little Ginger in it, or a little Cloves, Juniper berries, or other things which you fancy to please the pallet, or against [Page 204] some distempers you fear; for small things taken in time may prevent dangers very great; Syrupe of Rasburies gives a very pleasing taste in Syder.

Perry may be made and ordered after the same manner, only take care your Pears be not too ripe, for if they be, you will be troubled to get your Liquor fine: those Pears be best for Perry that have a hard flesh, and stony at the core; the juice easily separating from the flesh, the Fruit yielding a good plenty of juice, the Pears commonly of a harsh taste.

But those Pears that have a soft flesh, as many of our best eating Pears have, are not good for Perry; as the Burry, Borgatmotes, Green-feilds, Green-chesels, and several others of like nature.

We have a Pear at Cashiobury, and it is at other places near Watford; it is a little harsh juicy Pear, but makes excellent Liquor, as my Ho­nourable Lord can testifie, and several others; its only inconvenience is, it is but a small Fruit, but the quantity it yields is good; I take it to be a kind of wild Pear never grafted; but for its excellency aforesaid, the kind deserves to be preserved by the curious, I know no name it hath as yet.

Captain Wingate near Welling hath an excellent Pear for Perry; I have tasted of the Liquor, and have seen the fruit, but whether it is a good bearer or no I know not: which should be a property in Perry Pear­trees.

There is a Pear called by my ingenious Friend Mr. Pritchet Gard­ner to my Lord of Salisbury, Rufins Pear, which makes excellent Per­ry, and is a good bearer, as I have oft been informed by him; by the taste of the fruit it is very good for Perry: Indeed most sorts of baking Pears make good Perry, or any that is Qualified as is beforesaid, and that bears well, and yields great store of Liquor.

Mind your Vessels be sweet you put your Syder or Perry in; for a little tang in the Vessel will spoil all, a Sack Vessel is very good (though discommended by some) so is your White-wine or Clarret-wine casks, or a Vessel where Syder hath been before, &c.