IN the year 1668. I left the large and pleasant City of Norwich, and went by land to Yarmouth a Port Town in Norfolk, at the mouth of the River Hierus or Yare; large, fairly built and populous, very considerable for the great Herring fishing in the Au­tumn, and the commerce it maintain­eth in the Streights; Baltick, British and German Seas: With Italians, French, Spaniards, Dutch, Danes, and Swedes. I was here nobly entertained by that worthy and obliging person, Sr. Iames Iohnson, who also fur­nish't me with letters of Credit, to Amsterdam, Franck­fort, Venice and Vienna; Whereby I was readily and handsomely accommodated in all Parts where I had af­terwards occasion to travel.

August the 14. about six a clock at night I went a­board the Angel-Ketch in Yarmouth Road, a Vessel of a­bout 55 Tuns, and we immediately set sayl for Rotter­dam; we left St. Nicholas-Sand on the Larboard, and after that the Nowles, a new Sand, not taken notice of to be raised above twelve years before. We kept our course all night, East and by South and East South East. The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at the beginning of the night, but the Moon rising there appeared nothing but froth. In the morning we discovered Gravesandt Steeple. It is the custom upon all this coast to send out Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea, and furnish them with Pylots to bring them through the sands, and no Ship is to refuse one: Having taken in our Pylot, we soon discovered Goréé Steeple, and then the Briel. We entred the River Mosa, or Maes, a Large and noble Stream, which arising in the Mountaines of Vauge, or Vogesus, passing by Verdun, Dinant, Namur, Liege, Maestricht, Ruremond, Venlo, and many considerable Places, doth here fall into the Ocean, we had a very pleasant passage up the River, sayling by many neat Vil­lages, as Maese-sluys, Schedam, Delfshaven, and hand­some rowes of Trees upon the shore, and arrived at Rot­terdam about six at night. This is one of the three chief passages by Sea into Holland, the other being by Flushing and the Texell. The nearest cut out of Eng­land into Holland is from Laistoffe Point to Grave­sandt, which is 28 Leagues, and the deepest part of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms. There lay two of the grea­test Ships in Holland at that time near Rotterdam, the Crane and the Wassenaer; this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral Opdam was blown up, fighting against his Royal Highness the Duke of Yorke. The Heads or Keyes between which we entred the towne by water are [Page 3] handsome, and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers streets without difficulty, (their Channels being deep and large) the houses are well built, and the town Populous, they have an Exchange or place for Merchants to meet at, the streets are so clean that the Women goe about in white Slippers, they being paved with Bricks laid edgwise. The Landthuise hath a fair front. In the great Church the Organs, the Tower and the Monument of De wit, upon the Bridge the Statue of Erasmus, as also the house where he was born, and the Pleasure boats of the States are worth the seeing. It be­ing then the time of their Kermis or Faire, there were playes acted and many rarities shewn, as Lions, Leopards, &c, and a great noise was made about a tall Woman to be shewn of seven foot high; but the Boor of Leckerkir'k, not far from this town, was higher. Parsons and Evans, porters to King Charles the first, did also exceed her, but I have seldom heard of any that was taller than Martin Wierwski a Polander, who at the age of forty two years was presented to the Emperour Maximilian the second, as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high, whose picture, as big as the life, I saw, near to the Franciscans Con­vent at Vienna in Austria.

From Rotterdam I passed by Overschee to Delft, by the Powderhouse, which is a handsome one, built now at some distance from the towne to prevent the like acci­dent which befell when the former took fire and blew up part of the town. The Piazza or market-place is a very fair one, having the front of the town house at one end of it, and the high steeple of the new Church at the o­ther. In the old Church, Van-Tromps Tombe is very well carved upon the side of the Wall, himself lying up­on a Canon encompassed with Arms and trophies. In the middle Isle of the new Church there is a noble [Page 4] monument, the Tombe of William of Nassaw Prince of Orange, together with his Wife and Son, Prince Maurice; his Statua is in armour with his Dog at his feet, and four Obelisks are supported by ten Marble pillars. In a house of this Town there were shewn me in a Wall the marks of the bullets shot at Prince William, who was thereby murthered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and spacious I saw a handsome Tomb for Sr. Charles Morgans Lady, and the Monument of Peter Hein the Admiral, who took the Spanish Silver­sleet.

The Hague, Haga Comitis, the ancient place of Resi­dence of the Counts of Holland, and now of the States ge­neral; is about an hours-going distant from Delft; in which passage, at some distance, we had a sight of two of the Prince of Orange's houses. This place is well built; the Prince's Court handsome; The Piazza by it full of green trees; many fair Houses. The Course where the Coach­es meet, the Pall-mall, the Wood, the Park, do much beautifie it, and the way from hence to Scheveling, from whence his Majesty returned into England, is very remark­able, it being a streight way cut through the Sand-hills, and paved with Brick for three miles, having on each hand four or five rows of Trees, and Scheveling Steeple at the end of it.

The Hague and Mad rid in Spain are accounted the greatest Villages, or open unwalled places, in Europe, and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Masters of the greatest Village, than of a place which, if it were walled, would come short of many Cities; but this may prove a dangerous resolution, for formerly upon this ad­vantage, Martin van Rossem, Captain to the Duke of Gueldres, sacked the Hague; and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and Wor­den, [Page 5] if they had forced a passage into that part of Holland.

Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Hague, at present one of the nearest Towns in Europe; Well built, hath divers large Streets, beautified with rowes of Trees, and the water passing through the middle of them, and also well fortified after the modern way; I took notice of that Antiquity called Hengist Castle, or the Berg, said to be built by Hengist the Saxon, and went up to the top thereof: Upon the top there is now an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a Well, out of which, they told us, they took a Fish alive when the Town was almost famished during the siege, which was shewed to the Enemy over the wall, endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was, and to dishearten the besiegers. There are now handsome stairs from the top to the bottom, and a good house built by it, where they have their publick sales and en­tertainments. But a nobler Antiquity lieth under the Sea, than any above ground; not far from hence near Calwyck is a square fortress called Arx Britannica, built by Caligu­la; in the declining of the Roman Empire ruined in part by the Normans, and afterwards neglected, & over whelm­ed by the Sea. But in some years, and great retire of the Sea, the ruines have been discovered, and many no­ble Antiquities brought from it, some having this in­scription Ex. Ger. Inf. ex Germania inferiori. The Stadthuise hath a fair front towards the street. In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeletons. Two legs of an Elephant. The Skeleton of a young Whale, of a Horse, Deer, Cow, Cat, Fox, and many other Animals; divers Skeletons of Men and Women, some bodies preserved with their Muscles, and one intire, the flesh, skin and all parts defended from corruption. I saw also here what Monsieur de Bils pretended towards [Page 6] the preservation of Bodies, but more accurately after­wards at Dr. Ruisch his house at Amsterdam The Physick-garden, although but small, is well filled with Plants, where are also many other both natural, and artificiall Curio­sities to be seen, and many sorts of Optick glasses. Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the Officina Elzeviriana on the top. In the Churches I saw the Monuments of many famous men. There is a Picture in the Chamber for the Burgermasters, represent­ing the day of Judgment, drawn by Lucas van Leyden, so much esteemed that, it is said, the Emperour Ru­dolphus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it. The Table also upon which John of Leyden wrought whilst he was a Taylor, is a Curiosity, because he proved afterwards so considerable a disturber of Germany, and came to be King of the Anabaptists.

This City endured a hard siege by the Spanish forces, and they were reduced unto great extremity, but they saved themselves by overflowing the Country, and so forcing the Enemies to make away with great loss; and afterwards coyned a memorial-Medall with this Inscrip­tion.

Ut Senacherib à Jerusalem, sic Hispani a Leydae noctu fu­gerunt. 1574.

From Leyden I came to Haerlem, a neat City, plea­santly seated and having a Grove near it. The great Church is esteemed the largest in Holland, with a very high Lanthorn upon it. Within are many Inscriptions and Monuments, most of which are transcribed and set down in Gotfr. Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum. In the Prin­ce's house are all the Earles of Holland Painted upon the wall, and in the Garden in the Summer-house, the Pict­ure of Laurentius Costerus, who is said to have first in­vented the art of Printing in this Town; but others attri­bute [Page 7] it to Johannes Gottenberg, a German. On the o­ther side there is a Picture of a Ship with Saws, in memo­ry of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly ta­ken by those of this Town, who, as they report, accom­panied Frederick Barbarossa in an expedition against the Saracens, and when the men of Pelusium or Damiata had chamed up their Port, by this invention of fastning strong Saws to the keels of their Ships, they cut the chains in sunder, and so took the Town. In the rooms are very good Paintings by Hemskerk, and Goltzius, as his Prometheus and other Peeces; but Cornelius van Haerlem most delighted me, in his peeces of Herods kil­ling the Innocent Children; his feast of the Gods, in which Vulcans foot is esteemed at a great rate; and ano­ther Picture of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation, not inse­riour to the rest.

The old Mens house, or an Hospital for sixty aged persons, is large and handsome; having a good Qua­drangle and a Garden in it. The Hospital also for the sick is very cleanly kept.

Here I first saw the manner of punishing Malefact­ours by whipping them with rods, which is more se­vere than I imagined; they lead them to a Post upon a scaffold, their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as high as they can be extended, and then an Iron fastned a­bout their wast to keep them steady; in which stretched­out posture they receive sometimes fifty or sixty stripes or more, according to the merit of their offence.

Not far from this place there is a great Water, or no­ted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty miles in length, which is frozen over in hard Winters, and men swiftly travel over it by sliding, or in sleds. When Haer­lem was besieged there was a Naval sight upon it; The Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Vessels, and the [Page 8] Spaniards not many fewer. The Town was afterwards taken by Composition, but such cruelty was used by the Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it.

From Haerlem I went to Amsterdam, a City at pre­sent for Riches, Trade, Shipping, fair Streets, and pleasant habitations, scarce yielding to any other of the World. It is seated upon the River Ye, and hath its name, as 'tis reported, from a Castle appertaining long since to the Lords of Amstel, to whom this place also belonged: At the beginning, the seat of a few fishermen; but after­wards increasing, it received many priviledges from the Counts of Holland, and was made a Town or City by the favour of their Grants and Charters. In the year 1470. it was walled about with a Brick-wall, to defend it a­gainst the Citizens of Utrecht, they having been in great danger to have fallen into their hands, if those of Utrecht had pursued their victories. In few Months after also, the whole Town was almost reduced to Ashes by fire, but by the increase of their Traffick they easily overcame these losses, waded through all difficulties, and rendred good services to their Counts, and received the honour afterwards from Maximilian the Emperour to have the Imperiall Crown over their Armes, which are three Cros­ses on a Pale

About the year 1525. Gelen, sent from the new King of Munster, passed through Friesland and came to this City; where having made a party, and communicated his de­sign, he resolved to surprize the Town by night, at the time of the sounding of the Bell; to which intent they were already entred the Market place, had set upon the Town house: and cut in pieces those who resisted them. When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away; the Magistrates had notice of it, and caused all the streets and Avenues leading to the Market-place to [Page 9] be stopped up with Woolsacks and Hopsacks, whereby they were hindred in their design of taking the Town by night, and the next morning their number being discover­ed to be inconsiderable, they were set upon, driven into the Stadthuis, and defeated.

Of late years this City is mightily encreased and en­compassed with a new Wall, and fortified after the modern way. The new Streets are large and uniform: and the whole Town being in a low Marshy ground, the water is let in through all the considerable Streets. The River Amstel passeth through the City, being let in under a handsome well-contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which is so built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart, and is 26 paces broad. The whole Town is built upon Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicularly into the Earth so thick together, that nothing more can be forced in between them: And by this means they build Houses in the Sea, and lay Foundations strong enough to support the greatest Buildings whatsoever, in places where no solid bottom is to be found. But they must needs be at a great expence and labour before they can lay the first Stone: And the number of Trees required to each Foundation is considerable; since for the Foun­dation of one Tower or Steeple alone, over against the Church of St. Katherine, Mr. J. de Parivall, who wrote Les Delices de la Hollande, reckoneth that there was ram­med into the ground a Forrest, as he calls it, of Six thou­sand three hundred and thirty four great Trees. About this manner of work, for the fixing their Foundations, I saw them employed in divers places, particularly at the East-India-house, and at a place where a Lutheran Church was then designed to be built, So that it was not improbably said, That if a man could see all under this City, he could hardly behold a greater Forrest.

The Stadthuis or Town-house, is the noblest Building in all these Countries. A Pile of Freestone of an hundred and ten paces in Front, being larger than the Magnified Front of the Church of St. Peter's at Rome, and eighty one paces deep, or on the sides. The Chambers in it, the Pictures and Statues, are worthy to be seen and admi­red. The first Room on the right hand, or Judgment­hall, where the Malefactors receive their Sentence, is a­dorned with large Statues, hanging down their heads in mournful postures, as if concerned or grieving at what was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble; the Roofs are richly gil't and painted. Upon the top of all stands Atlas or Columlus, holding a Globe upon his shoul­der made of Copper, of about ten foot Diameter, which is as large perhaps as any Ball or Globe whatsoever em­ployed to this ornamental use. That upon St. Peter's at Rome, as having been in it, I judge to be less; as like­wise that at Florence. The Turkish Ornament to the Tower of their Mosques, is three Balls one above another, and an half Moon over them, but they are less by far, at least such as I have seen: and by relation from Eye-wit­nesses, the largest of the three noble gilded Balls at Mo­rocco are inferiour to this. But I will say nothing more of this great building, the Stadthuis, since there is a peculiar description of it in Folio, with Cuts and Figures of the most remarkable Curiosities in it. The Exchange is fair and large, and above it are Shops: it is very well frequented, and he that cometh after twelve payeth six stivers.

Divers of their Churches are fair: In the new Church, the partition with Ballisters of Brass, and the carved Pul­pit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of Van Hulse and Heemskerk are remarkable. Heemskerk did his Country great Services in their first attempts upon In­dia: [Page 11] for the King of Spain having consiscated some of the Hollanders Ships, who traded to his Dominions, which were then the Staple for the India Trade. It was resolved by the permission of Prince Maurice and the States, to set out a Fleet of eight ships for the Indies; four of which were to pass by the way of the Atlantick Ocean, and the Cape of Good-hope: And the other four were to search a passage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and China by the North-east, whereby the passage also into those parts might be expected much shorter than that which was known to the Spaniards.

To this intent these four last vessels sailed out of the Texel, June 5. 1594. and returned in September, not be­ing able to proceed by reason of the Ice. But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Barenson, there were two other Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla; in the last of which they wintered there, and Barenson lost his life. Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habitation, where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the Winter, where he had been twice, and afterwards made two rich Voyages into India. Upon whose happy returns the Holland East-India Company was first established, and a prohibition made for any other of that Country to trade thither for the space of One and twenty years.

But to proceed to other publick Buildings in this Ci­ty. The Tuchthuis or Raspelhuis, or House of Correction for debauched young men, such as are incorrigible and dis­obedient to Parents or Laws, hath at the entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Embleme, with this Inscription, Virtutis est domare quae cuncti pavent. This was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St. Clare, and converted to this use 1595. They who are put in, are forced to work and gain their Bread [Page 12] with hard labour. I saw those who rasped Brazil, having a certain task set them every day, work so hard, that be­ing naked and in a sweat, and the dust of the Brazil wood flying upon them, they were all over painted of a beau­tiful red colour. Which odd sight made me call to mind the Phansie of my Lady Marchioness of Newcastle, of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny colour, and the King of Purple.

They told us that some that were committed to their charge, and not to be brought to work by blows, they placed in a large Cistern, and let the water in upon them; placing only a Pump by them for their relief, whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to free themselves from drowning. One we saw put into a narrow Dungeon, and kept from meat. Some are put into this House for a longer time, some for a shorter. It hath been a punishment for such as have drawn their Daggers, or offered to stab any one. And some Citizens, though able and rich enough, contrive it so, that when their Sons are extravagant and masterless, the Officers seize upon them, and carry them into this House, where they are not forced to any hard labour, but kept in till they see suf­ficient signs of a mending their life.

This way of Correction may seem severe to many, yet is not comparable to that which is said to have been for­merly used in Germany. Particularly at Colen, in the white Tower, at the North end of the Town, near the Rhine; where it is reported, that such Youths who were not otherwise to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous manner shut up in the white Tower. The height and thickness of the walls secured them from escaping, or from their complaints being heard. Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the last remedy against starving, which while their bold necessity forced [Page 13] them to reach at, they executed their last sentence upon themselves, and miserably brake their own necks.

Somewhat like the Raspelhuis is the Spinhuis, or House of Correction, for the young women who live loosely, are taken in the night, or can give no account of their living. They are put in for a certain time, according as their fault meriteth, and are bound to make lace, sew, or employ their time perpetually in some honest labour.

Those of the better sort are permitted to have Cham­bers apart. In one large Room I saw about an hundred of them, and some very well dressed and fine, which was an unexpected sight to me, and would sure be more strange to behold in France and England.

The Weeshuis, or Hospital for Children, where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked after, and well educated.

The Dolhuis, or a House for such as are Delirious, Ma­niacal, or Melancholical of both Sexes.

The Gasthuis, or Hospital for the Sick, being large, and hath a great Revenue.

The Mannenhuis, or Hospital for old Men, and such as are no longer able to labour towards their own sup­port.

Besides all which, there are great Sums of mony col­lected for the poor, so that there is not a Begger to be seen in the Streets, and upon all assignations or appoint­ments of meeting at the Tavern, or elsewhere, and upon many other occasions, whosoever faileth to come at the exact time, forfeiteth more or less to the use of the Poor.

The East-India-houses are remarkable, and the great Stores of their Commodities, Cinamon, Green-ginger, Camphire, Pepper, Calecuts, Indico, &c. The ships are of a great burden: their House was then enlarging, although [Page 14] it was great before; and a perfect Town for all Trades within it self.

The Admiralteyt, or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up, is encompassed with wa­ter; near to it there lay then 72 Men of War. In the House we saw their Cables, Grapling irons, Pullies, Oars, Char­ges for Powder, Lanthorns for ships, &c. At the en­trance of the Gate hangeth up a Canoe with a man in it, dryed up, so as to be preserved from corruption, and a Paddle in his hand: he was enclosed up to the waste in the Canoe, in such sort, as the Fish-skins, which were the cover to it, being so sewed together that no water could get in, he might keep the Sea in the greatest Storms with­out danger. The top of this House, as of divers others also in this City, is a Reservatory for Rain-water, which they have the more need of, because they have little good water hereabouts.

The fairest Streets in the Town are Harlem-street, the Cingel, Princes Graft, Kaisers Graft, and the New Build­ings in the Island towards Gottenburg. And if they con­tinue to build with Freestone, they will still surpass these, which, I'le assure you, are in no small measure beauti­ful.

I saw a Globe to be sold, made by Vingbomes, between six and seven foot Diameter, valued at Sixteen thousand Guldens: The Meridian alone, being of brass, cost a thousand Guldens. The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted, with all the new Discoveries in it, as that of Anthony Van Dimons Land, found out 1642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude, and 170 of Longitude, those towards the Northwest of Japan, and those places both about N. Z. and also in the Tartarian Sea beyond the Streights of Voygats, New-Holland, West-Friesland, Cape d'Hyver, &c. but I have since met with a Book, which [Page 15] doth somewhat contradict this; entituled A Voyage into the Northern Countries by Monsieur Martiniere, who went in one of the three ships belonging to the Northern Company of Copenhagen, in the year 1653. and by that means had occasion to converse with the Norwegians, Islanders, Lap­landers, Kilops, Borandians, Siberians, Zemblians, and Samojedes, who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tin­gorses, in his 46 Chapter he expresseth himself after this manner. There having fallen into my hands several Geo­graphical Charts of sundry eminent and much celebrated Authors, I am much amazed to see how they are mistaken in the position of Zembla, which they place much nearer the North Pole than really it is; they divide it likewise by the Sea from Greenland, and place it far distant from it, when as indeed those two Countries are Contiguous, the Coasts of Greenland butting upon the Coasts of Zem­bla, so as did not the great quantity of Snow, and the violence of the cold render those Borders uninhabitable, the passage would be very easie by Land from Greenland to Zembla, and from Zembla passing the Pater-noster Mountains to enter into Samojedia, from thence into Tar­tary or Muscovy, as one pleased: But of the truth of this we shall be further informed at the return of Captain Wood.

I was amazed likewise to see they had described the Streight called Voygat, not above ten French Leagues in length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues, which is six times as much. Again, they would perswade us that through that Streight our ships might pass into the great Tartarian Ocean, which is a mistake. And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of Prince Maurice of Nassau, a Dutch Vessel passed that way into that Ocean, yet it is a manifest errour, that Streight being bounded, as I said before, by the Pater-noster [Page 16] Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of them covered with perpetual Snow, which never dis­solves. And of this I can give a positive testimony, ha­ving been my self in that Streight under those Mountains in the Dog-days, which is the hottest time of the year.

From the Steeple of the Old Church of Amsterdam, I had a good prospect of the Town, and the great number of ships lying upon one side of it, like a Wood; and all the Towns about it. The Roofs of the Houses being sharp, it is a most uneven Town to be looked upon downward, as it is a handsome one to be looked on up­ward; and is not so divertising or pleasing to the sight, as some Towns in France and Italy, which have flatter Roofs, or else are covered with a fine black Slat or Ar­doise. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town, a Trumpet is sounded at Midnight, and in other parts of the City at six a Clock night and morning. At eleven a clock, the time of going on to the Exchange, there is good Musick at the Stadthuis, given by the Earl of Lei­cester. They make good Harmony also every hour in playing upon their Chimes and Bells in most Steeples. And there is a Musick-house or Entertaining-house, where any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears most sorts of Mu­sick, seeth many good Water-works, and divers motions by Clock-work, Pictures, and other Divertisements.

During my stay at Amsterdam, I had the opportunity of seeing divers Learned Men, and Persons of Note. Dr. Ruish shewed us many Curiosities in Anatomy, as the Skeletons of young Children, and Faetus's of all A­ges, neatly set together, and very white; the Lympha­tick vessels so preserved, as to see the valves in them. A Liver excarnated, showing the Minute vessels, all shining and clear. The Muscles of Children dissected and kept [Page 17] from corruption: entire Bodies preserved; the face of one was very remarkable, without the least spot or change of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what might be expected immediately after death: he had then kept it two years, and hoped it would so continue. Dr. Swammerdam shewed us divers of his Experiments which he hath set down in his Treatise De Respiratione; and a very fair Collection of Insects brought from several Countries; a Stagg-fly of a very great bigness; an Indi­an Scolopendria, or Forty-foot; a fly called Ephemeron, and many other Curiosities. Old Glawber the Chymist shew­ed us his Laboratory: And we received much civility from Blasius the Physick Professour who hath wrote a Comment upon Veslingius.

The Jews live more handsomly and splendidly here, than in any other place: Their chief Synagogue is large, adorned with Lamps of Brass and Silver. We happen­ed to be there at the Feast of their New-year; so that their blowing of Horns, showting and singing was not omitted: Some of them understand divers Languages. I saw one Moses di Pas, a Learned young Man, and Orobio a Physician of Note. And I was sorry to see divers here to profess themselves publickly Jews, who had lived at least reputed Christians, for a long time in other places: One who had been a Franciscan Frier thirty years: and another who had been Professour some years at Tholouze, and before that Physician to the King of Spain. Juda Leo a Jew, hath taken great pains in making a Model of the Temple of Solomon, of Solomon's House, the Fort of the Temple, the Tabernacle, the Israelites encamping, and other Curiosities. I was present at the Circumcisi­on of a Child; which is performed by thrusting a Probe in between the Glans and Praeputium, and separating it, or dilating the Praeputium, so as the inward Skin may be [Page 18] drawn forward as well as the outward; then by apply­ing an Instrument joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a Sector, the Skin is held fast beyond the Glans, and with a broad Incision-knife, or Circumcision-knife, the Foreskin is cut off close to the Instrument; and what remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood stop­ped with Powders, and a Plaister applyed; the Relations and Acquaintance singing all the while, whereby the cries of the Infant are less heard.

Leaving Amsterdam, I passed by a peculiar Burial­place of the Jews, who are not permitted to interr their dead within the Walls, by Overskerk, Bamburg, and in six or seven hours arrived at Utretcht, in a Boat drawn with Horses through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the way of Travelling in Holland, Utretcht, and divers other Provinces of the Low-Countries.

Utretcht is an ancient, large, handsome City, and chief of the Province of the same name, called formerly Anto­nina, and afterwards Ultrajectum. Long famous for its Episcopal See founded by Dagobert King of France, who endowed it richly with Lands and Possessions: Willebald, or Willebrode an Englishman, was their first Bishop, who converted these Countries unto Christianity; and the following Bishops grew so powerful, that they were able to bring many thousand men into the field, and to wage great Wars against the Counts of Holland: Their Suc­cession also continued for above Nine hundred years. It is now an University, founded by the States in the Year 1636. I shall not trouble you with the Names of the Pro­fessors; the Learned Mr. Ray, whom I had the honour to meet in divers places abroad, having already caused to be printed the Series Lectionum of this and many other Universities in the Low-Countries, Germany, and Italy, in his Observations Topographical, Moral. Physiological, [Page 19] set forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high Tower, or three Steeples one above another: From the highest of which I had not only a good sight of the Town it self, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of many others also; Utretcht being in a plain flat Country, and so well seated, and encompassed with so populous a Country, that in a days Journey a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities. The English Church here is an ancient Building; the Pillar in the middle of it, whose Foundation could not be laid but upon Bulls-hides, is much taken notice of: It was built 1099. and hath the Picture of a Bull upon it with this In­scription;

There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which containeth divers old Books and Manuscripts. A large Bible in six Volumes, painted and gilded after a very ancient manner: Two Idols taken (in time of war) long since in Germany, and given to this place by the Emper­our Henry the Fourth, are worth the seeing, not so much for their neatness, as their Antiquity and odd shape: As also a Horn made out of a Tooth, said to be given at the same time. There are also three Unicorns Horns, little differing in length; the longest being five foot and an half: I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp'd with Silver, and made hollow to serve for a Cup. These were of the Sea-Unicorn, or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of some Sea-Animal much like it, taken in the Northern Seas; of which I have seen many, both in Publick Repo­sitories, and in Private Hands. Two such as these, the one Ten foot long, were presented not many years since [Page 20] to the King of Denmark, being taken near to Nova Zem­bla; and I have seen some full fifteen foot long; some wreathed very thick, some not so much, and others al­most plain: Some largest and thickest at the End near the head; others are largest at some distance from the Head: Some very sharp at the end or point, and others blunt. My honoured Father Sir T. B. hath a very fair piece of one which was formerly among the Duke of Curlands Rarities, but after that he was taken Prisoner by Doug­las in the wars between Sweden and Poland, it came into a Merchants hands, of whom my Father had it, he hath also a piece of this sort of Unicorns Horn burnt black, out of the Emperour of Russia's Repositorie, given him by Dr. Arthur Dee, who was Son to Dr. John Dee, and also Physician to the Emperour of Russia, when his Chambers were burned, in which he preserved his Curiosities. I have seen a walking Staff, a Scepter, a Scabbard for a Sword, Boxes, and other Curiosities made out of this Horn, but was never so fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy against Poysons, contagious Diseases, or any other evident effect of it, although I have known it given several times, and in great quanti­ty. But of these Unicorns Horns no man sure hath so great a Collection as the King of Denmark; and his Fa­ther had so many, that he was able to spare about an hun­dred of them, to build a Magnificent Throne out of U­nicorns Horns.

I had the honour to see divers Persons of Note in this City; as D. Cyprianus ab Oostergo, Dr. Regius, Voetius, the only Member then left alive of the Synod of Dort, and others; but missed the sight of the Learned Anna Maria Skurman, who was then gone out of Town, and was for­ced to content my self with beholding her Picture, well drawn by her own hand, with this Inscription of hers un­der it:

The Painters Hall is considerable, wherein are many good pieces to be seen of several Masters: Amongst which there are good Heads by Van Colen and Tuart; Land­skips by Soft-lever; and good Drapery, especially in some Turkish Habits, by Van der Mere.

This Town is also beautified with a fair Piazza or Market-place, divers long Streets, and a Pall-mall with five rows of Trees on each side. In the Church of St. Katherino is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge. Though I had seen France and Italy, and the Noble Cities thereof, which are worthily admired by all, yet I was much sur­prized upon the first sight of the United Provinces, espe­cially of Holland, and the adjoyning places. He that hath observed the easie accommodation for Travel there­in, both by Land and Water, their excellent order and regular course in all things; the number of Learned men; the abundance of Varieties in all kinds; the industry, frugality, and wealth of the people; their numerous good Towns; their extraordinary neatness in their Build­ings and Houses; their proper Laws and administration of Justice; and their incredible Number of Shipping and Boats, will think it an omission to rest in the sight of other Countries without a view of this. A Country of little extent, and soon travelled over, but so replenished with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages, as not to be met with upon so little a compass of ground, except perhaps in China.

From Utrecht, in two hours, I came to Friswick, and passed over the River Leck to Viaenen, where there is lit­tle remarkable besides the House and Gardens of Count [Page 22] Brederode, one of the Ancient Nobility of Holland, or, according to common esteem, of the most Noble Family of all; the Family of the Egmonds being formerly esteem­ed the Richest; the Wassenaer's the most ancient, and the Brederodes the Noblest. The Mount in this Garden ser­veth for the Rampart to the Town, and on a round Bull­wark are divers small brass Guns planted. The Statua's of the twelve Caesars, of Aristotle, the Pyramids and Par­titions, with the Paintings upon the wall, are the rest of its Ornaments.

From hence I passed still by Boat through the Land of Arkel, some say, derived from Hercules; belonging for­merly to the Lords of Gorchom and Arkeland, till by Ma­ry, daughter to the last Lord of Arkeland, it sell to John Lord of Egmond, and afterwards was sold to William the sixth Earl of Holland I arrived this night at Gorchom, a Town well seated, near three Rivers, the Ling, the Wael, and the Maes. The Market-place is fair; the Stadt­huis is sunk somewhat on one side. The Governour hath a good House, and the Church a very high thick Steeple: the Works are of Earth; the Water-gate is handsome, and over it in Great Letters is this Inscription;

The more remarkable because it made good its Inscrip­tion in the year 1672. when Louis the Fourteenth, King of France, came down with so powerful an Army into the Low-Countries, that in that Summers Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities, this Water-gate being the Limit to his Conquests this way, beyond which his Forces were not able to attempt any thing.

Leaving Gorcum, I passed by Worcum, on the other side of the River, and then by the Castle of Lovesteyn, strongly seated and well fortified; and therefore hath been often made use of to secure Persons of Note. Sir George Ascue of late years suffered his Imprisonment here­in, and formerly Barnevelt; upon which occasion this Castle hath been much spoken of, and hath given the name to that whole party who sided with him, well known at pre­sent by the name of the Lovestein Faction. Passing on fur­ther up the Maes, I left Proye on the left hand, and Huesden on the right, and the next day morning arrived at the Bosch.

Hertogen Bosch, Sylva Ducis, Boscum Ducis, Boisle­duc, Bolduc, takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brabant: It is a strong pleasant City, seated upon the River Disa or Deese, which entreth the Maes, about two Leagues below it; one of the greatest Cities in Brabant; and for its strength, for which 'tis be­holden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the Uni­ted Provinces possess not any one more considerable, and is a very good Frontier against all Enemies on this side: It is encompassed on all sides with Fenns and Marshy Grounds. The Avenues to it are by narrow Causies, made turning and winding, to be commanded in all pla­ces by one or other of the six Sconces or Forts built at some distance without the Town for its greater Security. Besides which, the Hollanders having some reason to be jealous of the Inhabitants, whose affections might incline them towards the neighbouring Princes, of whose Reli­gion most of them are, they have built a Citadel within the Town, a Briel or pair of Spectacles to look more ac­curately into their Affairs. It is a handsom regular Fort of five Bastions, each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long; the Faces of each Bastion 63; and the Flank or Neck 24. There is a handsome House of Stone for the Centry [Page 24] at the point of each Bastion, and the middle of each Cur­tain, every one of which cost Seven hundred Guldens. Here is also a Field Canon of an extraordinary length, said to be able to fling a Bullet almost as far as Bommel. The Piazza in this Town is Triangular.

This City was made an Episcopal See, 1559. The Ca­thedral is Dedicated to St. John. In the Quire are paint­ed the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece. And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an Inscription in French, which contains the History of the first Instituti­on, and Model of this Order, by the most High and mighty Prince Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, Lo­rain, and Brabant: Besides divers Statua's and Pillars. There are also several Monuments of the Bishops of Bosche and others.

This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the Forces of the Confederate Estates, in the year 1628. af­ter a long and chargeable Siege; in which the little Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South, did excel­lent Service.

Divers of the Nuns were still alive in this Town, but at Utretcht they were all dead.

From the Bosche we travelled through a plain Country, somewhat Sandy, to Breda upon the River Merck: A place very considerable, pleasantly seated, and well­fortified. It hath formerly had more Outworks than at present: For they have taken away the Crown-works, and left only the Half-moons and Horn-works, and Con­serves or Contregards about the Half-moons. There is a large Ditch of Water round the Counterscarp, and a small Ravelin between each Bastion, joyned to the Ram­part within side of the Ditch. There is also a double Haye or Quickset-hedge almost quite round the Town, be­sides Palisados. The Parapet is very thick, and strengthned [Page 25] with a row of Elms, and seconded with another row at three or four yards distance, round the Town; the bo­dies of the Bastions are sunk down or h [...]llowed away, and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are the like without the Town, and after all, a brest-work between the Town and the Bastions; and Cavaliers upon several places of the Rampart.

This Town belongeth unto the Prince of Orange, un­to whom it hath descended by the right of the house of Nassaw, by the Marriage of Engelbert the seventh Earle of that house, with Mary daughter and Heir of Philip the last Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken by the Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country Wars, and was afterwards Surprised by the Dutch, by a stratagem performed by eighty men hid in a Boat covered over with Turf, and so let into the Castle. In the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again, as by In­scriptions and Chronograms are to be seen in divers places, as that over the door of the Church.

As also this,

Afterwards it was besieged and taken by Frederick Hen­drick Prince of Orange, as an Inscription at the Westend of the Church sets it down.

The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments, as Renesse's Tombe; a Monument for Sir Thomas Alesbury set up by the Lord Chancellor Hide; an old Tombe e­rected 1349. for John Lord of Lech and Breda; the Tombe of Grave Engleberg Van Nassaw and his family on the side of the Wall; the Here Van Horne and his three Wives; but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrick Van Nassaw, whose Armour is support­ed by four Warriers upon their Knees; he built the Ca­stle of Breda, which is at present both strong and beau­tiful: I observed the place where the Turfe-Boat came in, and where the Prince came over into the Town. The Gallery, the Garden, the Walks, and Dials are worth the seeing, the Town in handsomely built, populous, and generally hath a great Garrison in it.

Leaving Breda we soon came by Land to St. Gertruyden­berg the last Town on the North of Brabant, where it joyneth to the Province of Holland, a small place, but a good Town for fishing, lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert, made by the falling of the Maes and many other Rivers into it. This Town is fortified and Garrisoned. The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair, and the ruines of the latter are observable, in regard that this Steeple was shot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange, while the Governour and chief of the Town were upon it, to observe a false a­larm in the Prince's Camp, and so lost themselves and the Town. We Passed from hence over a large Water which hath overflow'd a great part of the Country upon one side of it, no less than seventy two Parishes being [Page 27] drowned at once, the Village of Ramsdun onely escaping, and so by an old Tower called the house of Murney, to the Maiden Town of Dort, or Dordrecht.

Dordracum, so called by some from Duri or Dureti forum, at present Dort, being seated in the Waves of those great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal, is not unaptly from its situation compared to a Swans nest, it is reckoned the first and chief Town of South Holland, in respect of its antiquity, as having served to secure Odo­cer in his retreat almost eight hundred years since, and also in respect of its Priviledges, in having the Mint here, and being the Staple for Rhenish wine and English Cloath.

In this Town are many fair houses and pleasant Gar­dens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 312 steps high; the top thereof being made of four large Dy­alls. There is also an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet. The English have two Churches, and the French one. The Key or Head to the water side is handsome, and the Country about very pleasant; we saw the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was assembled 1611. a large fair room; and took a collation in the same house, in a high turret overlooking the Town and Coun­try: Our seats Moving round about the Table continu­ally; so as the diversity of the prospect made it more delightful. The great Vessels round-bellied, which trade between Coln and this City seemed strange; as also the long Luyck or Liege-boats; and the number of Peo­ple that continually live in them. At my going away from hence I embarked in a Vessel bound for the Island of Walcheren, sayling by most of the Islands of Zealand and in sight of divers good Towns. as Willemstadt, Zirick­ze, Tergoes; observing in some places where the Sea had overflow'd the Land; and in others where the Industry of [Page 28] the Inhabitants still keep it out, by keeping up their banks, and thatching the Shoars of the Sea. We Land­ed at Ter-Vere, where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships, the Walls were built in the year 1357, to­wards the Sea are round towers. The Piazza is long. The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hun­dred years, and the Marquiss of this Place did formerly make one of the three States, by which Zealand was Go­verned. The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middleburg re­presenting the Ecclesiastical jurisdiction, and the Towns of Middleburg, Zirickzee, Ter-Veer, Flussing, Tolen, Martins-dike, Romerswal and Tergoes, supplying the Third: over against this place where a Town had former­ly sunk into the Sea, the Steeple only remaineth to be seen. From hence to Middleburg the way is Paved with Brick; as it is also from Town to Town in most places of Holland.

Middleburg is the chief Town in the Island Walachria, seated almost in the middle of it, being well built, large, rich, and Populous, it is the fourth Port for the East-India trade: hath a large, broad Water within the Town, and a streight cut through the Land to carry Vessels out to Sea, the whole is very well Fortified, the Officers here are chosen by Strangers or Foreigners, the Churches are many and remarkable, the new Church is of an eight­square figure with a Cupola, the Tower of the old great Church very high, the Stadthuise with the old statuas, a­bout it, the round Piazza, and many private buildings are Considerable, and the whole Country about it is fruitful; either divided into Gardens and Orchards, or Planted with Madder, Pompions, or Grain and Fruits. The Zealanders are generally addicted to the interest of the Prince of Orange, and great Lovers of his Person. I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had been [Page 29] with them some days before, and was made Premier Noble, or chief of the States of Zealand; which was chiefly brought about, as I was informed, by Pensioner Hubert, Le Sage, Duvelaer and Vriebergen, formerly no great friends to the Prince, especially Vriebergen, who was the most earnest of any to bring him in, in despite to the Hollanders, for General Worts his sake, who be­ing set over the Zealand forces by those of Amsterdam, lately affronted Vriebergens Son who was a Colonel, at the head of his Regiment. I was entertained at Middle­burg very courteously by Mr. Hill the Minister, who also sent his Kinsman with me to Flussing. Flissinga or Vlus­sing, hath Stone-Wals towards the Sea, and Mudworks towards the Land; a very good Port, and a strong Town; the waves of the Sea washing its walls; it was one of the first Towns which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards, in the year 1572, and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammakins and the Briel. 1585. The renowned Sr. Philip Sidney be­ing the first Governour of it, and surrendred by King James to the United states. 1616. The Sea shoar here a­bouts is not only faced with rushes, flaggs and reeds staked down as high as the Tide usually ariseth, but it is also strongly bound over with Osiers and hurdles and great Posts driven in to break the force of the Water, and secure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth. The Town-house is handsomely built, standing in the Piazza, having three rowes of Pillars in the Front one above another; the Lower Dorick, the second Io­nick, and the highest Corinthian; and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Discover ships at Sea. This is the third Port for the East- India trade; Amsterdam and Rotterdam being the first and second: here lay many great ships in the middle of the Town, and considerable [Page 30] men of War, as the St. Patrick, and the Admiral of Zealand: we saw them also building of divers ships, and when the Prince was here, they Lanched one to diver­tise him, to which he gave the name of William Frederick, they also presented him with a Golden Bottle; that be­ing the Arms of the Town: the Prince Landed at Ar­muyden and went from thence to Tergoes, and thence to Breda; they reported his entertainment in Walcheren a­mounted to fifty thousand Guldens. The Women in this Island wear most of them red Cloth and straw-Hats, if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is layd at the Door, if a Boy, a little one, if a Woman, the straw lies on the left side of the Door: when any Woman is brought to bed; they fasten a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door; and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated, and in such manner, as to distinguish of what sex the young Child is.

Returning to Middleburg by Land I observed there was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat and rampart, where ordinarily there is only a breast­worke or a hedge, and embarked at Middleburg again, and passed down the River by the fort Rammakins, and so for the Schelde, Sayling up that noble River till we had passed the Fort Frederick Henrick and came to Lillo; where we stayd till the Vessell was searched. Over a­gainst Lillo, lyeth another Fortification, called Lifgens hock; the Fort de la croix is the last that belongeth to the Hollanders, and lieth on the North side of the River; the Banks are cut nigh to it, and the Country drowned for its greater security. The Spanish Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers, are the Philip, the Pearl, and the Maria.

The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by Caesar is a gallant River, affording plenty of fish, and convenience [Page 31] for Navigation and passage unto several noted places: It ariseth in the Country of Vermandois, passing to Cambray, Valencienne, so to Tournay or Dornick, Oudenard, Gaunt, Rupelmond and Antwerp, and pursuing its course is afterwards divided into two streams, whereof the Southern is called the Hont; the other runs by Bergen ap Zome, and so into the Sea between the Isles of Zea­land.

The next day morning we went on our Voyage still up the Scaldis or Schelde, and arrived at Antwerp. Where I had the good fortune to see Mr. Hartop; one very well known in all those parts and of high esteem for his perso­nal strength and valour. A Gentleman also so courteous that he makes it his business to oblige strangers; he shew'd me many curiosities in this City, carrying me with him in his Coach.

The Walls of Antwerp are very large, faced with Brick and freestone, having divrs rows of Trees upon them, broad walks, and conveniences for the Coaches, to make their tour upon. The Bastions are not so large as generally they build now a dayes, yet after the modern way. The Ditch is very broad and deep, the Country about it, all Gardens. The Cittadel is a regu­lar fortification of five Bastions, wherein lies alwayes a Garrison of Spanish Soldiers: upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below, a row of building or lodgings for the Soldiers; the ears of the Bastions are cut down, and Casamates made, and Palisados set round upon the Esplanade; the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and stone, nor is there any where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five Ba­stions that is finished: it commands the City, the Ri­ver and the Country: besides this Cittadel there is ano­ther Fort within the Town near the Scheld, to command [Page 32] the River, having eight Guns in it, called St. Laurence Fort.

The Exchange is handsome, supported by 36 Pillars e­very one of a different carving, four streets lead unto it, so that standing in the middle we see through every one of them. The Meer or Largest street is considerable for the water running under it, and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the streets of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one end of it stands a large Brass Crucifix upon a Pedestall of Marble. The Jesuites Church goeth far beyond any of that bigness that I have seen out of Italy. The Front is noble, with the Statua of Ignatius Loyola on the top, A great part of the inside of the Roof was painted by Rubens, and some of it by Van Dyke: there be many Excellent peeces of flowers done by Segers a Iesuite; the Carving and gilding of all the works is exquisite: The Library of the Colledge is great, & the Books disposed handsome­ly into four Chambers; the Founder hereof was God­fridus Houtappel, whose Monument, together with his Wife and Children are worth the seeing, in a Chappel on the South side of this Church. In the Church of the Carmelites is a large Silver Statua of our Lady, and models of Cityes in stone. Onsar Lieven Vrowen Kerck, or the Church of our blessed Lady is the greatest in the City; and the Steeple one of the fairest in the World, five hundred foot high: one of their feet is eleven of our inches; so as it is 459 of our feet. In this Church there is much Carving, and a great number of Pictures highly esteemed, among which one piece is much taken notice of, drawn by Quintin, at first a Smith, who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the West door; and afterwards to obtain his Mistress, he proved a famous Painter; his head is set up in Stone at the entrance of [Page 33] the Church, with an inscription and this verse.

I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael, pleasantly seated upon the Scheld; where among other curiosities, I saw a glass, which represented the Pictures of our Sa­viour and the Virgin Mary, collected from the Putting together of divers other heads: One was represented from a Picture wherein were thirteen faces, and another from one of twelve; over the blessed Virgin was this In­scription.

The Countess of Brabants Tombe, who was drowned, and her Statua, as also the Monument of Ortelius, are here shewn. Macarius Simoneus was then Abbot, the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Wal­burgis an English Saint, who contributed much towards the conversion of these Countries.

The Town-house is fair, the House built for the East­country Merchants is very stately and large, but runneth now to ruine, in this I saw among other curiosities, divers strange Musical instruments, which at present are not understood, or at least not made use of: The Hessen house hath been also formerly considerable. The water which they make use of in Brewing, is brought by an Aqueduct from Herentall about thirty miles distant from hence; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Chan­nel, peculiarly walled in by it self where it passeth the Ditch; in this City are many good Collections of Pict­ures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Mini­ature or Limning by Gonsol, one fine piece, which I [Page 34] saw was peculiarly remarkable, it being the work of 35 several Masters.

From Antwerp, I passed to Brussels by water, chang­ing Boats five times, and going through divers locks, by reason that the Country is so much higher about Brussels, and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerp. At Fontaine a league and half from Brussels, three Rivers cross one another: one of them being carried over a bridg. The Piazza of Brussels is fair. and oblong in fi­gure upon one of the longest sides stands the Town­house, and over against it the Kings-house, where upon a Scaffold hanged with Velvet, Count, Fgmond and Horne were beheaded, the whole Piazza being hanged with Black Cloth. Upon the top of the Town-house, stand: St. Michael the Patron of the City in Brass, Count Marsins house formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange; hath a fair Court, and overlooks a good part of the City, but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunder bolt or Stone which they affirm to have effected it, is bigger than two Mens heads, and hangs up upon the door at the entrance. The Iesuites Church is handsome, and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top. The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar, and near unto the Church is the Statua of a pissing boy, which is a con­tinual Conduit. The Armory was well furnished, as we were informed, before the Governours of the low Coun­tries sold the Arms; and Cassel Roderigo the Governour left it very bare. There remains the Armour of Charls the fifth, of Duke Albert, of the Prince of Parma, Er­nestus, and of the Duke d'Alva and of the Duke Alberts horse who being shot saved his Master, and died the same day twelve month; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar, one with two Pistols; The Armour of Cardinal Infan­te, and of an Indian King; A Polish musket which carri­eth [Page 35] six hundred paces; Charles the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and Henry the Fourth's Sword sent to declare war; Good Bucklers for Defence, and some well wrought; especially one with the Battel of Pyrrhus and his Elephants; and Banners ta­ken with Francis King of France, at the Battel of Pa­via.

Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons shooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of David, is the shot which Infanta Isabella made, when with an Arrow she killed a Bird, in memory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Ar­row is set upon the top of a Tower in the Count, which is large; and if the New Buildings and Design were con­tinued, it would be very handsome. Before the Court stand five brass Statues. The Park is pleasant, with Trees set in order, and adorned with Grotto's, Foun­tains, and Water-works, which come very near the Ita­lian; one piece somewhat imitating Frascati, in which all Musical Instruments are imitated, and a perpetual mo­tion attempted: and on the Front of the Buildings stand the Caesars head. But the Eccho is most remarkable; which may perfectly be distinguished to ten or twelve Replies. The greatest Church is that of St. Gudula; in which is her Statua, the Devil striving to blow out the Light of her Lanthorn. Two Chappels therein are re­markable; the one built by Leopoldus, very fair on the outside: the other towards the North, hath been visited by five Kings, in which is the Host which bled being stabbed by the Jews. In the Dominican Church is the Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Dutchess, in Go­rinthian brass. But for a New Church that of the Be­gennes, or Pious Maids, is very considerable; there be­ing Eight hundred of them in this City, who have a par­ticular place allotted to them, where they have built this [Page 36] milk white Church. The Plague was much in this place at that time, three hundred Houses being shut up, and a Garland placed on the doors, in the middle of which † was written IHS. I saw the English Nunnery, and o­ther considerable Buildings. And after I had refreshed my self at the Fish-Tavern, which is worth the seeing, especially for two Rooms in it, furnished from top to bottom with very good Pictures, I returned to Ant­werp.

Octob. 4. I travelled through an open Country, and lodged at Molin bruslè. The Spanish Souldiers met us upon the Road this day, some of them well mounted and armed, and begged of us, and were well satisfied with a small Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country of Liege, and passed great Heaths, and on the Sixth, in the morning, arrived at Maestreicht.

Trajectum ad Mosam, or Maestreicht, is a strong Town, seated upon the Maes, four Leagues below Liege. The Out-works are very considerable; the Wall is old. To­wards the South-east lyeth a Hill, which ariseth gently, and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hill is one of the noblest Quarries of Stone in the World. To se­cure the Town from the disadvantage it might receive from this Hill, there was formerly a Fort built upon it, but it hath been long since slighted; and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-shot of it, and the Ba­stion answering to it is made very high, to cover the Town. On the other side of the River standeth Wicke, very well fortified also, and rather stronger than Mae­streicht, into which they might retire if the Town should be taken by Storm, it being united to Maestreicht by a handsome Bridge over the Maes, consisting of Nine Ar­ches. All about Wicke the Country is flat: there are [Page 37] many Inhabitants in it, and a handsome Glass house.

The private Houses of Maestreicht are generally cove­red with a black Slat, or Ardoise, otherwise not very beautiful. The Town house is fair, seated in one of the Piazza's, built of white Stone; it hath Nine large Windowes in a row on each side, and within is very well painted by Theodorus van der Schuer, who was Painter to the Queen of Sweden. In another Piaz­za is a Fountain, rows of Trees, and the great Church. This Town was besieged and taken from the King of Spain by the Confederate States, in the year 1632.

October the Seventh I dined at Gallop, a small place, and came that night to Aken, Aix la Chapelle, or Aquis­grane, an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous, and much frequented by reason of its hot Baths, of which I shall speak more particularly in my Journey from Colen to London. Leaving Aken I travelled to­wards Juliers or Gulick, but it being late before we arrived, the Gates were shut up, so as we went on­ly under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand. Near unto Gulick runneth a shallow swift River, called the Roer. At the Mouth of it, where it fal­leth into the Maes, is seated a considerable Town, called Roermonde, through which I passed in the year 1673. when Sir Lionel Jenkins and Sir Joseph Wil­liamson were sent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne, in our Journey from Antwerp to that City. We then pas­sed the Country of Brabant, by the way of Thornhaut, Weert, Roermonde, and the next Night passing by Erke­lens, lodged at Castro, or Caster, in Gulickland, where there are still the remains of an old Castle, formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country. Roermonde is seated upon a rising Hill, near the River [Page 38] Roer, hath a Colledge of Jesuits in it, a handsome Pi­azza, and an old Abby with divers Monuments very ancient, founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland. From this Town their Excellencies were saluted with the Guns from their Walls, charged with Bullets. The Spaniards in most places striving to express the highest of their respects.

From Gulick I travelled to Cologne, where I arrived October the 10th, 1668.

COlen, Coln, or Colonia Agrippina, was anciently the Capital City of the Ubii, a people who were at first possessed of the Countries now called Berg and March, but being over run by the Ger­mans next to them, Agrippa, Lieutenant of Gallia, received them into protecti­on, and placed them upon this side of the Roman shoar of the Rhine, where they built this place, and called it Oppidum Ubiorum, and the Romans seating themselves here for the defence of the Country, in Honour of A­grippina, daughter to Germanicus, and wife to Claudius, whose Birth-place it was, gave it afterwards the Name of Colonia Agrippina. It is at present one of the largest, if [Page 40] not the greatest, of any City in Germany, secured to­wards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches, and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone. The Rhine renders it delightful upon one side, and divers rows of Trees enclose the Town towards the Land. They have some Out-works, as Half-moons and Ravelins, but their best security is in the great number of men which they are able to raise within themselves. Many of the Streets are broad, and paved with broad stones.

It received the Christian Faith very early, and Ma­ternus was their Bishop above 1350 years since, who subscribed, amongst others, to the Council of Arles. They have a great number of Churches, and well endowed, which take up a great part of the Town; The Prebends and Canons Houses having in many places Vineyards, and large Gardens adjoyning. Towards the North end of the Town, the Church of St. Kunibald is considerable. The Convent of the Dominicans is fair, and newly built, with a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uniform. The Jesuites Church is well built and stored with rich Copes, Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the Church of St. Gereon, a Saint of great name here, marty­red about Colen in the time of Maximianus, are about a thousand Saints heads, and on each side of the Altar a large Statua, whereof one is of a Moor; and under the Quire another Church. The Convent of the Carmelites is also considerable, wherein the Treaty of Peace was held with good accommodation in it, though with no success, in the year 1673. In the Church of St. Ursula is her Tomb, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven thousand Virgins, martyred by the Huns. Upon the Monument of St. Ursula is this Inscription; ‘Sepulcrum Sanctae Ursulae indicio Columbae detectum.’ [Page 41] Upon many of the Tombs which are old are Crosses and Lamps. Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are also kept in this Church. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Peter, and is very large, but not finished. The Body of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it. The Quire is handsome and very high: behind it are believed to be the Tombs of the three Wise men which came from the East to worship our Saviour, or the Kings of Arabia, of whom it was prophesied that they should bring Gifts, commonly called the three Kings of Colen: Melchior, who offered Gold, Gaspar Frankincense, and Balthasar Myrrhe. Their Bodies, as the account goeth, were first removed to Constantinople by Helena the Mother of Con­stantine the Great; then to Milan by Eustorfius Bishop thereof; and they have now rested at Colen for above five hundred years, being translated from Milan hither by Rainoldus Bishop of Colen, in the year 1164. There are also divers other Monuments of Bishops, and Noble Persons in Brass and Stone, and one in the shape of a Castle with six Towers. The Canons of this Church are all Noblemen; among whom the Duke of Newburg, who ordinarily resides at Dusseldorff, about twenty English miles below this City, upon the Rhine, hath two Sons. In a Church dedicated to all the Apostles, they shew a Tomb, which being opened by Thieves, intending to plunder it, the woman buried in it arose up and went home, and lived with her Husband divers years after. In one of the Streets is a Tower, or rather one Tower upon another, which seems to be ancient, now made a Prison. Upon another Ruine also in the Streets lies a Tombemade out of one Stone; of which sort of Tombs there are ma­ny in this City and other places; but the greatest number of them I ever saw was at Arles in Provence.

The Senate House is Noble, having a fair Tower upon [Page 42] it, from whence there is a good prospect over the City. Upon the Front of the Senate House is a Man in Basso re­lievo, fighting with a Lyon, who, as it was related to me, was formerly one of the Consuls, who having had a contest with some Clergy-men about the Government of the City, on a suddain they caused a Lyon to be let in up­on him: upon which occasion he behaved himself so well, as he delivered himself, and slew the Lyon.

The Elector or Archbishop of Colen hath two Palaces in the City, but by agreement between him and the Town, he is not to stay here above three days together. Only this present Archbishop, upon the coming down of the Im­perial Forces, and his loss of Bonna, took Sanctuary here in the Convent of St. Pantaleon, where he continued a great while.

The City is Imperial and Free, and yet it doth Ho­mage to the Elector, much after this Form: We free Ci­tizens of Colen promise to the Archbishop, to be faithful and favourable unto him as long as he preserves us in Right and Honour, and in our ancient Priviledges, Us, our Wives, our Children, and our City of Colen. Most of the City are of the Roman Church, and the whole Town so full of Convents, Churches, Church-men and Reliques, that it is not undeservedly styled the Rome of Germany. The Lutherans have also a Church within the Walls, and the Calvinists at Mulheim, half a League down the Stream on the other side of the Rhine.

Over against Colen lieth Dútz, a small Village, inhabi­ted chiefly by Jews. The Vessels which come out of the Low-Countries hither are long, round bellied, and of great burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them, into which they may be drawn, and escape the Injuries they would otherwise suffer by the Ice in Winter.

Besides the rich Clergy, there are many wealthy Citi­zens and Merchants here, and they maintain a Traffick and Correspondence with divers Countries, especially by the convenience of the Rhine. They speak not the best High-dutch; but Latin and French are understood by many: Divers Hosts in Inns speak Latin, and the Ser­vants French; which proves a good help unto Travellers. It was made an University about the year 1388. Besides the General Hospitals for young and old persons, there are two for the Sick, and well accommodated. They have a Pharmacopaea Coloniensis, or a Dispensatory proper to the place, whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines. I was acquainted with one of the best, Mr. Elburg, a knowing and obliging person, who was his Majesties A­pothecary while he resided at Colen, and whom my honoured Friend Sir Alexander Fraser, his Majesties chief Physician, made use of, who lived in great reputation in this City.

Two hundred years since Aeneas Sylvius left an high expression concerning this place, Coloniâ quae de conjuge Claudii matre Neronis, Agrippina dicta est, & trium Magorum ossibus illustrata, nihil magnificentius, nihil orna­tius, totâ Europâ reperias: which though, if strictly construed, will hardly be admitted by any who hath be­held Paris, Naples, Venice, &c. yet doth it declare the no­bleness of this City, even in former times.

We left Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon, be­ing drawn up the Stream with Horses, they being made fast by a very long Rope to the Mast; we lodged in a small Village, having had a good prospect of Colen all this Evening from off the water. Near to this Place Ju­lius Caesar made his Bridge over the Rhine. The next day we came to Bon, the Seat of the present Archbishop and Elector of Colen, Maximilianus Henricus, Duke of [Page 44] Bavaria, Bishop of Hildisheim and Liege, and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire throughout Italy. This place was formerly called Bonna, or Castra Bonnensia, the win­tering place, in the time of Tacitus of the sixth Legion. It was not long since very well fortified by the order of the present Archbishop, and the direction of Colonel Bi­ser, a blind man, having Cataracts in both his eyes. The Archbishops Palace is very Noble, and there is a Cham­ber seated a good way into the Rhine, to which they pass thorow a Gallery. This Night we lodged at the foot of the highest of the seven Hills by the Rhine, which are seen at a great distance; and upon divers of them stand old ruined Castles. On the 15th we passed by a pleasant Island with a Convent in it: at Remagen is also a Con­vent upon a Rock, fortified with round Towers. In the Evening we lodged near to a Castle, ruined four years before by the Electors of Triers and Colen, it belonging at that time to the Duke of Lorrain. On the 16th early in the Morning we came to Andernach, where the plague was very much at that time, and they kept a great many of their sick in Boats upon the Rhine.

Andernach, of old Antenacum, was one of the Roman Fortresses. Upon this River, some think that Caligula was born, and that Valentinian was buried hereabouts. Near unto this place are also Mineral Springs, well fre­quented, and much made use of. The Town is encompassed with an old Wall; and the Gates were shut up by reason of the Plague: Notwithstanding, there being divers Fri­ers in our company, several of the Towns-men sent out dishes of Meat to them, which we eat in the Field upon Trees which were laid along near the Town. This day the passage by water seeming tedious to us, Mr. Mulstroth, a worthy German Gentleman, with whom I travelled as far as Spire, was willing we should hire a Coach toge­ther, [Page 45] which we did, and invited the Friers with whom we had breakfasted, to go along with us in it to Coblentz. We passed through a very pleasant Country, between rows of Walnut-trees, in sight of two of the Elector of Triers Houses, and near to a House belonging to the Count de Wert.

We passed the Mosella over a hand some Stone-bridge of thirteen Arches, built by Archbishop Baldus, or Baldui­nus, in the year 1344. and coming into the Town, we went to the Dominican Convent, which is pleasantly seated near the Banks of the River Mosella; but the Pri­or of the Convent, whom we had brought with us, was so obliging, that he would not part with us that night; and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodg­ings: He invited also some of the Convent to bear us company; and after a handsome Supper, with plenty of excellent Moselle wine, we went to bed between two Feather-beds.

Coblentz, or Confluentia, is a Town of a Triangular Figure, seated at the meeting of two great Rivers, the Rhine and the Mosella, which make two sides thereof, and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to the other; which is now well fortified after the most re­gular Modern way. The Wall within these Works had many old high Towers; and formerly there was another still nearer to the uniting of the Rivers, and consequent­ly containing a less space of ground. This Town is un­der the Elector and Archbishop of Triers, Carolus Caspar, of the Noble Family of the Leyen, Arch-Chancellour for the Empire in Gallia Belgica, and the Kingdom of Arles. It was given to the Church of Triers when Me­doaldus was Archbishop above a thousand years since, in the time of King Dagobert. The Situation is pleasant and convenient, and lieth over against the Castle of Her­manstein, [Page 46] or Ehrenbreitstein, that is, The Stone of far extended Honour; at the foot of which Castle, upon the shoar of the Rhine, under a great Rock, stands a very Noble Palace of the Electors, two large Wings and the Front with five Pavilions standing towards the River, and from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Cob­lentz: when any great Vessel passeth by, they let slip three Boats, whereby the passage lieth open, and make them fast again afterwards. In the German wars the Spa­niards thrust in a Garrison into this Town; which was af­terwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of Sweden; and the strong Castle of Ethrenbrietstein being put into the hands of the French, the Emperours For­ces seized upon the Archbishop of Triers, who then was Philippus Christophorus, and carried him away to Vienna.

In places where the Rhine runneth through a low Coun­try and a fat Soyl, it washeth away the Banks: to secure which, in divers places they have made great Works of Wood, and also to secure Vessels from the danger of the Ice. And I remember, riding near the Banks of the Ri­ver Loire in France, I observed them in some places to be handsomly defended for a long way together with Free­stone.

Near unto Coblentz, upon a Hill, is a Convent of Car­thusians. October the 17th we went up the Rhine to Bop­part, a walled Town, upon the western bank, where Van Trump was at that time: It is a very old Town, one of the Roman Fortresses against the Germans, called anci­ently Bodobriga; some would have it called Bopport from Beauport, Fair-haven, or Bonport, a good convenient place for Vessels to retire into, or to ride in.

On the 18th we dined at St. Guer, a pleasant Town belonging to the Landtgrave of Hesse, who hath a Castle [Page 47] here. Coming on shoar we met with an odd custome: for upon the Wall side there is fastned a Collar of Brass at present, but was formerly of Lead, and given by Charles the Fifth; into this most Strangers that come put their Necks, at which time they ask them, Whether they will be sprinkled with water, or drink wine? and if they choose the latter, they give an entertainment of wine to the Company. The Queen of Sweden passing by this place, gave a great Silver Cup, out of which they now drink at this Ceremony. We lodged this night at Wesel, a Town situated between a high Hill and the River, belonging to the Archbishop of Triers. Here in the Market-place they shew us the print of St. Huberts Hor­ses foot in a Free-stone.

On the 19th we came to Baccharach, or ad Bacchi aras, belonging to the Elector Palatine; a place famous for Ex­cellent Wines. We passed by an old Castle seated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine, being of an irregular figure, called Pfalts, where formerly the Prince Pala­tines of the Rhine were born, the Princesses being sent hither to be brought to Bed. We came this night to Dreickshausen; the next day we went by a dangerous Pas­sage, there being many Rocks under water, which cause the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little a­bove this we came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the Rhine, called the Mouse-tower, built by Hatto Archbi­shop of Mentz, in the year 900. who, as the Story goeth, in a time of great Scarcity, pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn, where he burnt them all, saying, They were like the Rats and Mice which would devour the Corn. After which he was so persecuted with Rats and Mice, that to avoid them he caused this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine, which did not avail him, for they followed him [Page 48] thither also, and at last devoured him. A little above this lieth Bing upon the Western shoar; a considerable Town, belonging to the Elector of Mentz: here our Boat stayed to pay Custome, as it had done also at Bonna, Liutz, Hammerstein, Andernach, Coblentz, Lodesheim, Bopport, St. Gower, Cub, and Baccharach. For the trade of the Rhine being great, Princes and Lords, who have Towns upon it, make use of that advantage, which, though it abateth the gains of the Merchant, brings considerable profit to themselves.

Bing, or Bingium, was an old Roman Fortress upon the Rhine, where the River Navus or Naw entreth into it; over which latter there is a handsome Stone-bridge: In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrain's Army sick and wounded, who three weeks before had main­tained a fight against the Forces of the Elector Palatine, near this place. From Bing we continued our Journey to Mentz: at Rudesheim in Rhinegaw, a place noted for good Wine, they shewed us a Boy, whose hair was thick and woolly, like to the African-Moors, but of a fine white colour, which being somewhat an odd sight, I took away some of his hair with me.

Mentz, Moguntia, Moguntiacum, and by the French Mayence, is seated over against the Confluence of the Ri­ver Main, with the Rhine, or rather a little below it; in a fertile Country, abounding in all Provisions and good Wine; it lieth at length, and is most extended towards the River; and that part excelleth the other towards the Land, which is not so populous or well-built: It is a strong place, and well guarded; it hath many Churches and Monasteries, and some fair Buildings, especially those of publick concern, as the Palace of the Elector, and o­thers: But the narrowness of the Streets, and many old Houses, take away much from the beauty of the City. [Page 49] It is an University, begun about the year 1486. or as o­thers will have it 1461. This place also challengeth the Invention of Printing, or at least the first promotion or perfection thereof: And the Territory about it is famous for the destruction of the Roman Legions under Varus, by the Germans. Gustaphus Adolphus, King of Sweden, was wonderfully pleased upon the taking of this City, 1631. entring into it in State upon the 14th of December, it be­ing his Birth-day, which began the 38th year of his life, and kept his Court and Christmas here; where at one time there were with him six chief Princes of the Empire, twelve Ambassadours of Kings, States, Electors, and Princes; besides Dukes and Lords, and the Martial men of his own Army. At the taking of the Town, they found great store of Ordnance and Powder; and the City re­deemed it self from Pillage by giving the King a Ransome of Eighty thousand Dollars; and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thousand more, of which the Jews paid Eighteen thousand; Archbishop Wambold saving himself upon the Rhine, and retiring to Colen. The King caused also two great Bridges to be made, one over the Main, founded upon fifteen great flat bottom'd Boats, the rest being built upon great Piles of Wood: Another over the Rhine supported by sixty one great flat Boats, each lying the distance of an Arch from one another; and many Families of people living sometimes in the Boats un­der the Bridge. The Bridge over the Main is taken a­way; but that over the Rhine is still continued: Upon which I saw the present Elector passing in his Coach; a Person of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, having long grey Hair, and was very Princely attended; his Name Joannes Philippus of the Noble Family of Schoen­burg, Elector and Archbishop of Mentz Bishop of Wurtz­burg, and Bishop of Worms, Arch-Chancellour of the [Page 50] Empire for all Germany; the first of the Electoral Colledge; in all publick Conventions he sits at the right hand of the Emperour, and is a Successour of the famous Boniface, an English man, Bishop of Mentz, who so much promo­ted the Christian Religion in these parts. But though his Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Ecclesiastical Electors of Colen and Triers, yet his Territories come short; and they lye not together, but scatteringly with those of the Palatinate, Spier, Franckfort, and divers places in Franconia. But of late he hath much encreased his Power, by seizing the great City of Erfurdt in Turingia, which he hath since much beautified and strength­ned by a Citadel built upon St. Peters hill.

From Mentz I passed by water up the River Main, to Franckfort, a free City of the Empire, called Trajectum Franconum, a Passage or Ford of the Franks, as serving them for a Retreat, when they entred or returned from Gaul; at present Franckford upon the Main, to differ­ence it from Franckford upon the River Oder, which is an University: It is a large Town, divided into two parts by the River; the lesser called Saxonhausen, or Saxon­houses, united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the Main, of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of good Trade, and well seated for it, as having the ad­vantage of the River Main, which passeth by Bamberg, Schweinfurt, Wurtzburg, Guemund, or Gaudia mundi; and also the Tauber, and other Rivers running into it, af­fordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franconia; and the Main running into the Rhine, makes a large communication both up and down that Stream.

But this place is most remarkable for the Election of the Emperour, which, by the Laws of the Golden Bull, should be in this City, as also for two great Marts or [Page 51] Fairs kept in March and September; at which times there is an extraordinary concourse of people from remote parts, in order to buying and selling of several Commo­dities, especially for Books, as well printed here as in other parts, whereof they afford two Catalogues every year, and have no small dealings that way, by the Fa­ctors of the Germans, Hollanders, Italians, French, and English: although at other times their trading in Books seems not great; for when I was there out of the time of the Mart, the Stationers Shops being shut up, made but a dull show. Here are also a great number of good Horses bought and sold: and on the North-side of the City there is a spacious place for a Horse-Fair. The City is strong and well fortified; and most part of the Town are Luthe­rans. In the German wars, the King of Sweden having taken Hanaw, sent a Messenger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and speedily set open their Gates unto him, and accept fairly of a Garrison, or stand to the hazard of a Siege: And although they were unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the worst, they con­sented, That the King should have free passage for his Army through the City; and that for the better assurance of it, six hundred of his men should be received for a Garrison into Saxonhausen; and also that the Magistrates and People should take an Oath unto his Majesty. So that upon the 17th of November, 1631. the King's Army pas­sed through Saxonhausen over the Bridge, quite through the Town. Colonel Vitzthumb was left Governour in Saxonhausen; and the King himself rode bare-headed through the Streets: and by his obliging behaviour did generally win the affections of the beholders; and three days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of Hessen-Cassell, and the Landtgrave of Hessen-Darmstadt, where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw, or [Page 52] Veteravia, and were feasted in the same room where the Emperours at their Coronation use to be entertain­ed.

In Saxonhausen there is a House anciently belonging unto the Knights of the Teutonick Order, which hath the priviledge of a Sanctuary for Man-slayers and Bankrupts; but it is a security but for fourteen days. Upon this side there is the largest portion of Land belonging to Franck­fort; on the other side very little.

This being a trading place, it is no wonder that there are so many Jews in it; for a distinction they wear great Ruffs, their Sons Bonnets, and their Wives a peculiar dress of their Head.

The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew, where ma­ny of the Emperours have been crowned, is large, hath a high Steeple, and is built of a red stone. There are divers handsome Fountains in the Town, and good Hou­ses; in one of the best of which liveth Monsieur Pierre Neufville, a great Merchant, and a civil worthy person, well known in most places of Commerce; who obliged me with Letters to Venice, and other places.

From Franckfort I continued my Journey through the Bergstraes, passing by Darmstadt, which belongs to one of the Brothers of the House of Hessen, commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Hessen Darmstadt; and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country, in the sight of Hills, and sometimes near them: the whole Country planted with Wallnut-trees, Vines, Corn, and in some places with Tobacco; till I arrived at Heidelberg.

In coming into this Town we passed over the River Neccar, Nicer, or Necarus, upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another, with a large Roof of Wood: in the same manner is the long Bridge covered at the en­trance of the City of Alessandria della paglia in Italy.

The River Neccar ariseth near the Sylva Martiana, now Swartzwald, or Black Forest, and passing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg, runneth into the Rhine at Manheim: This, though none of the great­est, yet is a considerable River of Germany; and hath di­vers good Towns upon it and near it, as Sultz, Tubingen, Wirtingen, Essingen, Stutgard, Canstat, Lauffen, Hallbrun, Heidelberg.

There being wars at that time when I was in this Coun­try, between the Elector Palatine and the Duke of Lo­rain: The Elector resided for the most part at Franken­dale, to be near his Forces.

Heidelberg is seated on the South-side of the River Neccar, between it and a ridge of high Hills, so as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification, or hope to be extraordinary strong, as being over-looked by the ad­jacent Mountains: It lieth most at length from East to West: It hath been an University since the year 1346. at which time it was begun by Rupertus, Count Palatine, and at present is much frequented. In the great Church was kept the famous Library, which, after that the Spa­niards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome, and added to the Vatican, where I saw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one side of a very long Gallery be­longing to the Vatican Library; and the Duke of Urbin's Library placed on the otherside, over-against it: both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library. In this Church and the Church also of St. Peter, are divers Monuments of Princes of the Palatine Family, and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here, and the present Elector is of the Order of the Holy Ghost; and his Son a Mareschal of France: and good French and High-dutch are both generally spoken here. The Lutherans have also a Church in this Town, by the [Page 54] favour of the present Elector; although he himself be a Calvinist: and to express his generous kindness the higher in this point, the first Stone was laid by himself and his Son; and it is called the Church of Providence, according to the Elector's Motto, Dominus Providebit.

Upon the Town-house is a Clock with divers Moti­ons, and when the Clock strikes, the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat, a Cock crows, and shakes his wings, Souldiers fight with one another, and the like. The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Horses are seat­ed upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer formerly, above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperialists; as also divers of the Statues on the out­side of the Castle, which is seated high above the Town.

The present Elector is Carolus Ludovicus, Son to the King of Bohemia, Frederick the Fifth; he was born in the year 1617. and passed his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Electorate: and at the pacification at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any restitution to be made to him. But at length, in the Treaty of Mun­ster 1648. he was restored to the lower Palatinate, and 1652. returned to the possession of his Fortunes: a highly accomplished Prince, much honoured and beloved by his Subjects. In the year 1650. he married Charlotta, Daughter to William the Fifth, Landgrave, and to the famous Amelia Elizabeth, Landgravess of Hassia; by whom he had the Chur Prince, or Electoral Prince Charles, and a Daughter, the Princess Charlotta Elizabetha; but up­on some discontent the Princess Electress since returned to her own Friends and Country. This Elector is also Knight of the most Noble Order of the Garter, Great Treasurer of the Empire, and together with the Elector of Saxony, Vicar of the Empire.

In his Palace or Castle at Heidelberg, are divers things remarkable; a very great Tower to be equalled by very few; within which is a Theatre for Comedies. This was formerly called Trutzkaisar, or the Tower that bad Defi­ance, or threatned the Emperor; but since the Restaura­tion of the Elector, there are some Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star, and the old disobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued, and it is at present called the Sternschanz, or the Star-fort. By it is a handsome Garden; in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The Grotto's and Water-works are very handsome: they were also making divers others, having the advantage of the side of the Hill to bring down the water, and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongst other Fountains, that of the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken notice of. The Cellars are very large and cool, filled with Vessels of no ordinary size; yet inconsiderable, if com­pared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning to the Cellars; it was built by this present Elector's Or­der, 1664. and goeth far beyond any made before: It contains 204 Faiders and odd measure, or about two hundred Tuns: instead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted and carved, and have divers Inscriptions upon them, and supported by carved Pedistals. Upon one side of it is a handsome Staircase to ascend to the top of the Ves­sel; upon the top of which is a Gallery set round with Ballisters, three and forty steps high from the ground.

About an English mile from Heidelberg, between the Hills, is a solitary place, where three large Streams or Springs gush out of the Mountain, and presently fill five Ponds, have three handsome Cascates or Falls, and after run into the Plain, and are strong enough in a [Page 56] small space to turn four Mills; this is called Wolfsbrun, or the Wolfs Fountain, from a Princess who formerly re­tired into a Cave in this desart place, and was here de­voured by a Wolf.

While I was at Heidelberg, two English men came kind­ly to me, Mr. Villers, and Timothy Middleton, belonging to Lobensfeldt Cloister, a Convent formerly of the Jesu­its, but since let out to about an hundred English, who left their Country 1661. came up the Rhine, and by the permission of the Elector, setled themselves a few miles from hence, living altogether, men, women, and chil­dren, in one House; and having a community of many things: They are of a peculiar Religion, calling them­selves Christian Jews; and one Mr. Poole, formerly li­ving at Norwich, is their Head. They cut not their Beards, and observe many other Ceremonies and Duties, which they either think themselves obliged to from some Expressions in the Old Testament, or from some New Ex­position of their Leaders.

From Heidelberg I made an excursion, and had a sight of Spire, seated in a Plain, on the West-side of the Rhine; a place of Antiquity, conceived to be Urbs Nemetum of old; a large place and populous. The King of Sweden in the German wars demolished the Works about it, not willing to spare so great a number of his Souldiers as was required to Garrison it, and make it good. It is an Episcopal See under the Archbishop of Mentz: there are many fair Houses in it, divers Churches, and a fair Cathedral, with four large Towers. The Romanists, the Lutherans, and Calvinists preach in it at several hours. It is the more populous, and filled with people of good quality, by reason of the concourse of persons from o­ther parts of Germany, for the decision of Law Suits: For here the Imperial Chamber is held, and many differ­ences [Page 57] which arise in the Empire are determined, and the Electors and other Princes, in some tryals at Law, may be called hither. It is a settled Court, which Maximi­lian the First, for the better ease of all persons, placed first at Worms, and not long after it was fixed at Spire, from whence it cannot be now removed, but by the con­sent of all the Estates. Things Cognoscible in this Court are determined by an Imperial Judge, and sealed with the Emperours Arms, so that there lieth no appeal unto the Emperour.

Another day I went to Manheim, formerly a Village, seated at the Confluence of the Rhine and Neccar; but walled about by the Elector Frederick the Fourth, and since is much encreased; all the Streets being large and uniform, and a Noble Citadel built; within which, over­against the Gate, the Elector designs a Palace, the Model of which I saw: and at present, on the right hand, there are three Pavilions of Lodgings: in one of which lodgeth the Elector Palatine; in another the Prince his Son; and in the third the Princess his Daughter: behind these there is a handsome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen, the Churfursts Mistress. Here are some good Pictures, as a Head of Hans Holben, and a Landskip with the Sto­ry of the Union of the Swissers. The Bridge over the Moat of the Citadel into the Town, is also remarkable, as having six Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and three small ones on the side. There are Palisado's all a­long the bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and with­out upon the Esplanade.

From Heidelberg I travelled to Nurnberg in the Compa­ny of Captain Wagenseyl, who had been in the Polish and Hungarian wars, and was employed a little before in blowing up the Castle of Launsteyn, belonging to the E­lector Palatine, to prevent its surprisal by the Duke of [Page 58] Lorrain. He was then employed to raise a Company at Nurnberg, for the Service of the Elector Palatine. I had a good advantage in my Journey by his Company; for he travelled with Authority, and was a generous, knowing, and courteous person.

The first day we travelled near to the Neccar, in stony and rocky way; and it being dark before we came to Mospach, the Peasants conducted us from Village to Vil­lage with bundles of lighted Straw.

The next day we came to Poxberg, where there is an old Castle, and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal, or Mergetheim, the Seat of the Grand Master of the Herrhn Deutchern, or the Teutonick Order. The Town is well­built, hath a fair Piazza, with a large Fountain in it, and a Statue of one of the Grand Masters, with a long Corridore from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame, and hath had large Possessions, as may be seen in the exact Account of the Teutonick Knights of Prussia, made out from the best Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. Ashmole, in his Noble Description of the Order of the Garter; and as Lewis du May, Counsellor unto the Duke of Wirtenberg, hath set it down. For the Knights Templars and of St. John, having fought prosperously against the Infidels, raised an Emulation in some German Gentlemen, who waited upon the Emperour Frederick the First, in his Expedition to the Holy Land, to take the Croisado. And because they were installed in the Church and Hospital of St. Mary at Jerusalem, they were called Marianites. Their Order differed nothing from those above-mentioned, but in the form and colour of their Cross, and was approved by Pope Celestin the Third. Afterwards when Jerusalem was ta­ken by Saladin, those Knights betook themselves to Ptole­mais, from whence the Emperour Frederick the Second, sent them back into Germany, and employed them against the [Page 59] Prussians and Livonians, who at that time were still Pa­gans. But by the Valour and Piety of those Knights, their Souls were brought into subjection to Christ, and their Bo­dies to the Order which began that war in the year 1220. a little while after these Knights found themselves Ma­sters of a Country of very large Extent, which obeyed the Order, till the year 1525. at which time Sigismond, King of Poland, gave the investiture of Prussia unto Albert Mar­quiss of Brandenburg. In the year 1563. the Great Ma­ster became Secular again, and took a part of the Lands sub­ject to the Order, with the name of Duke of Curland. And Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many wars between the Polanders, Muscovites, and Swedes; these last did at length become Masters of it, and have it in possession still. So that there is no more remaining of the Teutonick Order, but some Commanderies scattered here and there in Germany. And the Great Master hath his Seat and Resi­dence at Mergenthal.

They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Cross. The Dignity of Grand Master is generally held by some Great and Honorable Person; and in the Great Assembly he ta­keth place of all Bishops. The present is the Baron of Am­ring; and the Grand Master before him was Leopold Wil­liam, only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the Third.

From hence we travelled to Lauterbach, near which we passed through a Wood, and found a Noble Church up­on the top of a high Hill, which being much frequented by Pilgrims, they have made handsome stone Stairs from the bottom to the top: then to Rotenburg, and lodged at Burgperner, and the next day by Schantzbach we came to Nurenberg. Rotenburg is an Imperial City, which some have likened unto Jerusalem for its Situation upon hilly places, and many Turrets in it. It is Situated near [Page 60] the head of the River Tauber, which may be accounted the second River of Franconia, passing by Rottingen, Lan­den, and Werthaim, where it runneth into the Main.

Nurenberg is the fairest City that I saw in Germany; the Houses most of them of Free-stone, very high; and divers of them painted on the outside, and adorned with gilded Balls on the top; many are of six or seven Stories high. Der Herr Peller hath one of the fairest. The City is very populous and full of Trade, although it stands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River. The three best Churches are the Hospital Church, lately built very fair; St. Laurence, which is very large, with two high Steeples in the Front; and St. Sebald the best of the three. The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen, in that place where the Oxen stood still, they buried the Body, and erected this Church in his memory. In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood, very well carved, and esteemed at a high rate. The Cru­cifix without the Church is very great, and of a black colour: and some fancy that the Raht Herrn, or Magi­strates of the Town, have reposited a Treasure within it. The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole Church so stately, that it may pass in the first rank of Lutheran Churches; that Religion being here practised in its splendour. The Priest every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour, or preacheth a Sermon. The Town-house is well worth the seeing: In it the Hall is spacious, as also the Chambers, and furnish­ed with good Pictures, and Stones well gilded and pain­ted with white and gold, green and gold, dark coloured and gold, and the like. There is one Picture of most of the Great Persons in Germany entertained in the Great Hall; another of the three Brothers of Saxony; one of an Elephant as big as the life; a piece of St. John and [Page 61] St. Mark, and another of St. Peter and St. Paul, both by Albert Durer: but the most rare piece is that of Adam and Eve, by the same Master, with this Inscription: ‘Albertus Durer Almang faciebat post Virginis partum, 1507.’ Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the blessed Virgin. Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood, and painted over, with this Inscrip­tion:

The Castle standeth upon a high Hill, from whence the Town makes a handsome show: In it are observable a very deep well, the Emperors Chappel, his Picture, and the Pictures of the Electors; good Night pieces; and one of a man behind a white Curtain transparent, very well expressed. The Armour of Hebbele van Gailinghen the great Sorcerer is here shown; and in the Wall of the Ca­stle the marks of his Horses feet, when he leaped from thence over the Town ditch.

The new Fountain was not then finished; but the Sta­tua's in Brass made for it were excellent; the Sea-Horses large, the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life; and Neptune, who was to stand on the top, is above three yards and a half high. When I came first into this place, I was not a little surprized to behold the fairness of the Houses, handsome Sreets, different Habits, industrious People, and neatness in all things, more than I had ob­served in German Cities before; and no place hath grea­ter number of curious Artificers in Steel, Brass, Ivory, [Page 62] Wood, wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate; and there are Officers to inspect and enquire into the works of Artificers, that they be true, perfect, and without fraud: they make strong and handsome Clock­work. The King of Poland presented the Grand Signi­or with a very noble Clock, who took so much delight in it, that when it required some mending (the Turks be­ing ignorant in Clock-work) he sent it from Adrianople as far as Nurenburg, to be set in order again.

Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, was more magnifi­cently received and entertained in this City, than in any other of Germany; which so incensed Wallensteyn, that he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great spoil upon their Territories: But the King of Sweden marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence towards Lutzen, where in a bloody Battel he lost his life.

The River Pegnitz runneth through Nurnberg, and hath divers Stone Bridges over it; and below the Town, joyning with the River Rednitz, runneth into the River Main at Bamberg; and the Main runs at last into the Rhine. The Reduitz ariseth at Weissenberg, and is not far from the River Altmul, which runneth into the Da­nube, towards Regensburg. Upon this convenience, Charles the Great designed to make a Communication of passage between the Danube and the Rhine; and made a Canale thirty paces broad between the Rednitz and the Altmul, to joyn those Streams for the commodity of Pas­sage by Boat; but after he had proceeded two German miles in this work, Boggs, Rains, and his warlike Di­versions made him give over that noble Design, whereby there might have been a Commerce by water, from the Low-Countries to Vienna, and even unto the Euxine Sea.

The Roman Lieutenant in Nero's time, had a desire to unite the River Soane and the Mosella; and to make a passage between the Mediterranean and the German Oce­an; having been at the mouth of the Mosella by Coblentz, and passed from Chaalon upon the soft and noble River Araris or Soane unto Lyon, I cannot but think these ve­ry goodly Streams, and fit for such a purpose. The present King of France hath a design to unite the River Aude with the Garonne, and so to have a passage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea by Tholouse and Bourdeaux, into the Ocean. When I travelled in those parts, view­ing the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult work, and so it proveth: but the King hath proceeded already very far therein.

About four Leagues from Nurnberg lyeth Altdorff, be­longing unto it, made an University in the year 1623. con­taining, when I was there, about 150 Scholars. The Physick Garden is handsome, and well stocked with Plants, to the number of two thousand. Dr. Hoffman the Botanick and Anatomick Professour, shew'd me many of the most rare of them; and presented me with divers. The Anatomy School is not large; yet the only one in those parts of Germany: And they have divers Curiosities pre­served in it, as the Skeleton of a Hart, of a Horse, of a Man, of a Bear bigger than a Horse: And some Pictures, as one of a Ninivite, and another of Moses, which they take to be Ancient. Dr. Wagenseyl, Professour of Law and History, brother to Captain Wagenseyl, who travel­led with me from Heidelberg, invited us to lodge at his House, and shew'd me his Library, and all his Rarities and Coyns, whereof he hath a good Collection, having lived in most places of Europe, and speaks many Lan­guages well; he gave me a piece of the first mony that was coined in Germany. In the University Library I [Page 64] saw a fair Hortus Eystetensis, and Youngerman's Colle­ction of Plants by his own hand.

At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to the Holland Ambassador in Turky, who had travelled hi­ther over-land from Constantinople, in their return into the Low-Countries, travelling in Greek Habits.

From hence I went to Newmarkt, a good Town in the upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Bavaria, and the next day through Heinmaw, subject to the Duke of Newburg, to Regensburg.

Ratisbona, Regensburg, Augusta Tiberii, Colonia Quarta­norum, the chief place of the Roman Forces in this limit of the Empire, where the fourth Italick Legion had a constant station; was made a Colony by Tiberius in the year, as some conceive, of the Passion of our Saviour. It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour Arnulphus, who had a great affection for this place, so pleasantly seated, and in a good Country. Here the River Regen runs into the Danube; from whence it was called Regensburg. There are two Bridges, one of wood below the Town, and another Bridge of stone of about fifteen Arches; which is the fairest stone Bridge o­ver the Danube. It is an Imperial City, but not with­out some acknowledgment to the Duke of Bavaria: And although it be strongly fortified, yet it was taken by the Swedes in the German wars. There are many fair build­ings in it, both private and publick; and though I am not able to confirm what some report, that there as many Churches and Chappels in this City, as there are dayes in the year; yet are there many fair Churches and Convents: As the Cathedral of St. Peter, in the South-side of which is the Picture of St. Peter in a ship; and on the North a­other of the Apostles first Mission. In the Piazza stands a neat little Church, the Convent of St. Paul, founded [Page 65] by St. Wolfgangus Bishop of this place, the Convent of St. Emerammus Bishop of Ratisbone, a Saint of great Ve­neration here, though but of little mention or name in o­ther parts. The name of Albertus Magnus, Bishop of this place, hath also added unto the Fame of Regensburg.

But that which chiefly promoteth its lustre, is the General Diet or Parliament, which is often held in this City, and is not to be called in any part out of Germany; and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of such a noble Convention, as are the Estates of Germany. The Vice-Marshal taketh care to provide Lodgings respe­ctively to their persons, and seeth that all things be brought hither, and at a just price; that the Hall or Place of Assembly be furnished and adorned sutably to the dignity of the Persons convened, and hath an especi­al eye and regard towards the Publick safety. By this Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much secured, and their peace and quiet Established. Wherein Germany seems to have a better advantage than Italy; For Italy being likewise divided into many Dominions and Principalities, hath no Common Diet or Great Council, whereby to proceed for their Publick safety: Which makes them often so divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger, and when they most need a joynt Combination.

I entred the notable River Danubius at this place, which hath already run a good course, and passed by ma­ny fair Towns or Cities; as the large City of Ulme in Swabenland, where it beginneth to be Navigable; as also Donawert, Neuburg, and Ingolstadt, and hath already received the considerable River of Licus or Leck, where­by the Commodities of that great Trading City of Augs­burg are brought into it. When I first embarked at Re­gensburg, I thought I might have taken leave of the Da­nube [Page 66] not far below Vienna, but an opportunity made me see this great Stream beyond Belgrade, as I have declared in another Account of my Travels.

The first day we passed by Thonawsteyn, where there is a Castle seated upon a high Rock, and came to Pfeter or Vetera Castra of old, now but an ordinary place. The Boats upon the Danube are generally painted black and white, are flat bottom'd, and broad at the Head and Stern; there is a Chamber built in the middle; and the Rudder is very large, to be able to command the Boat where the River is rapid, and of a swift Course.

The next day we came to Straubing, a handsome walled Town, belonging to the Duke of Bavaria; the Streets are streight; and there is a Tower in the Market-place, painted all over with green and gold-colour: There is also a Bridge of wood over the Danube. We passed by Swartz in the Afternoon, where the Church is seated up­on a Hill, and is frequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at Deckendorff, where there is another Bridge. Near this Town comes into the Danube that considerable River Iser, or Isara, having passed by divers considerable Towns; as Landshut, Frising, and München, the Seat of Ferdinan­dus Maria, Elector of Bavaria, Great Steward of the Empire, and at present the first of the Secular Electors, and he is to take place immediately after the King of Bo­hemia, it being so concluded on at the Treaty of Munster, where Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed to hold the Electorship, which was confirmed upon him by the Emperour Ferdinand the Second, when he excluded Frederick the Fifth, Count Palatine, and in lieu hereof there was an eighth Electorship erected for the Palatinate Family, who also, if the Bavarian branch doth fail, are to re-enter into their ancient Electorship, and the other newly erected is to be abolished.

Thursday, November the fifteenth, we came by Wilsho­ven to Passaw, Patavia, or Boiodurum, a long and no­ble City in the lower Bavaria, or Bayern, made up of three Towns, Iltstadt, Passaw, and Innstadt, at the con­currence of the River Inne, the Danube, and the Iltz. As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are built at the Confluence of great Rivers, for the Strength of the Situation and convenience of Commerce; so is this accounted ancient, as being a Roman Co­lony, and the place of the Castra Batava in old times.

The Church of St. Stephen is stately, besides other fair Churches. The Bishop, who is Lord of the City, hath a strong Palace upon a Hill; his Revenues are large, and besides what he possesseth hereabouts, he hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at Bleyberg in Carinthia. This place had lately suffered much by fire; but a good part was rebuilt, and very fairly after the Italian manner: So that this may well be reckoned as one of the ten considerable Cities, which are upon the Danube, accounting from Ulme unto Bel­grade, as Ulme, Ingolstadt, Ratisbone, Passaw, Lintz, Vienna, Presburg, Strigonium, Buda, Belgrade; all which from Ratisbone I had the opportunity to see be­fore the end of my Journey. Near to a Wall over a­gainst the great Church at Passaw, which was then re­pairing, I saw a vast Head cut in stone, the Mouth whereof was two spans wide, and the rest proportion­able. The River Iltz, which runneth in here from the North, is considerable for the Pearls which are found in it; and the noble River Inne or Oenus, from the South, is the greatest River which hath yet entred the Danube; having passed by Insbrug, and taken in the River Saltz, upon which stands Saltzburg; and a­rising in the Alpes in such a high Country as Tirolis, [Page 68] it runneth in here with a great force, and addeth much unto the swiftness of the Danube.

Upon the Sixteenth we came to Lintz, the chief City in the higher Austria, not very great, but as neat and handsome a City as most in Germany. There is in it a very great Market-place, with never a bad House in it, the whole Town built of a very white Free-stone; and the Castle upon the Hill is of Modern Building, and very large. There is also a Bridge o­ver the Danube. The Imperial Forces rendezvoused here when Solyman came to Vienna. This was also besieged by the Peasants of Austria in the time of Fer­dinand the Second; they having got a Body together of Forty thousand men, and many pieces of Ordnance, but were stoutly repulsed after many Assaults, and at last overcome by Papenheim. Not far below Lintz the River Draun enters the Danube; this cometh from the Gemundner Sea, or Lacus Felicis, passing by Lam­pack, Weltz, and other Towns, and hath a noted Cataract or Fall of Waters.

The next day we passed by Ens, Anisia, upon the River Anisius, or Onasus, which taking its original in the Borders of Saltzburgland, runs into the Da­nube, and divides the higher from the lower Austria, having received into it self the River Saltza, upon which standeth Cell, or Maria Cell, a place of the greatest Pilgrimage in Austria. Near this Town are many Roman Coyns and Antiquities found, and Lauria­cum stood of old, a Roman Garrison, and afterwards a Bishop's See: we came to a Village on the North shoar of the Danube, called Greim, where the Graff von Leichtensteyn hath a House. A little below this are two dangerous passages in the River; the one cal­led the Strudel, where the River running amongst vast [Page]

[Page] [Page 69] Rocks, some under water, and some above, the waves are broken with great force, and the Current is ra­pid, foaming, and troublesome; and some skill is re­quired to pass between the Ledges of Rocks which are under water, and when the water is low the pas­sage is very difficult. The other is the Wurbel, or a kind of a Whirlpool, where the water turneth about with great force, being hindred in its direct Course by a great Rock. Upon the top of a high craggy Rock stands a large Cross, and at the foot a little Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, who is Patron of this dangerous place, and is believed to take peculiar care of such as pass this way, and therefore a little Boat comes to you as soon as you are out of danger, and receives what Acknowledgment you please, or what perhaps you may have promised to give, when you were in some fear. This night we lodged at Ips, Ipsium, or Ibissa, a Town on the South-side of the Da­nube: over against it lieth Besenbeug, or Usbium Ptolo­maei. Two German miles below Ips stands Pechlarn, conceived to be Arlape in former times; and here the River Erlaph entreth the Danube: A mile and a half below this lies Melcke, Nomale, or Mea dilecta, in former days the Seat of the Marquesses of Austria, until St. Leopold removed to Kalenburg, and his Suc­cessours to Vienna. The Town lieth at length upon the South-side of the River; but the noble Cloister of Benedictines, which taketh place of any other in Austria, stands upon a Hill which over-looks the Town, the River, and the Country about; is richly endowed, and remarkable for the Monuments of many great Per­sons, and the Tomb of St. Colman, much honoured in these parts. We dined at Steyn, where there is a Bridge over the Danube. Near to this lieth Crembs, another [Page 70] walled Town; and over the water Mautern; and not far from it the rich Convent of Ketwein; After this the River Traisn, or Tragisama, cometh in from the South. Having passed by the noted Town St. Pold, or St. Hippolitus, we lodged this Night at St. Eldorff, and the next day passed by Thuln, Stockeran, and Cloister Neuburg, to Vienna.

VIENNA, or Wien, which the Turks call Berch, is the chief City of Austria, in the Latitude of forty eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not much differing from the Latitude of Paris. The old Seat of the Dukes of Austria, and for a long time of the Emperours of Germany. Ac­cording to ancient account it standeth in Pannonia supe­rior, the Bounds of Pannonia extending unto Kalemburg, or Mons Cetius, five or six miles Westward of Vienna; beyond which still Westward all that lieth between that Hill and the great River Oenus, or Inne, which runneth into the Danube at Passaw, or Castra Batava, was anci­ently called Noricum.

It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the Romans, and called Vindobona, as the Learned Petrus Lambecius hath at large declared, where the Classis Istrica [Page 72] sometimes lay, and the tenth German Legion had its sta­tion; all this shoar or side of the Danube being famous for the actions of Roman Emperours against the Marco­manni and Quadi, who possessed the Country on the o­ther side of the River, and especially for the wars of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Philosophus, who notably de­feated those Nations, and who, as Aurelius Victor (who was Governour of Sirmium in Pannonia inferior, in the time of Constantius) affirmeth, fell sick at Carnuntum, now Petronel, and died at Vindobona, now Vienna. And to confirm the Antiquity hereof, besides what Wolfgangus Lazius hath delivered, not many years since some Anti­quities were found. For in the year 1662. when a wall was digged up near the old Palace, the workmen digging still on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a small Gold Coyn, a Glass Urn enclosed in a Brass one, an Iron Knife like a Sicespita, or Knife used about Sacrifices, a little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, shut up with a Gol­den cover at both ends, wherein was an Inscription in strange Characters: Not far from the Sepulchral Monu­ment were found a Head in Brass, a Brazen Patera, Lamps, Lachrymatories, and other Vessels, and a Copper Coyn of Antoninus Caracalla. The writing in the Golden Scroll, which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned Lambecius to be the old Pannonian Character, and that this might be the Monument of some Pannonian Priest in the days of Caracalla, who, as good Authors deliver, spent some time about these parts.

It is seated on the South-side of the Danube, on the ripa Romana, that side nearest to Rome, and many Roman Colonies, according to the usual position of Roman Sta­tions, both upon this River and the Rhine, as may be ex­emplified in Colen, Bonna, Andarnach, Coblentz, Ments, [Page 73] Wormes, Spier, and Strasburg. And in like manner in the old Roman Stations, on the South or Roman side of the Danube, which were in no small number in or near the Austrian shoar, as Carnuntum, or Petronel, Vischmund, or Aquinoctium, Ebersdorff, or Ala Nova, Melck, or No­male, Arlape, or Pechlarne, Lentia, or Lintz; for here­by they better secured their Conquests, and hindred the incursions of the Barbarians before them.

It is not seated upon the main stream of the Danube, but by a branch thereof; for the River running through a low Country; it is divided into several Streams, and maketh many Islands. A small River named Wien, run­neth by the East part of this City, and entreth the Da­nube below it, which upon floods doth often much hurt, yet sometimes low and very shallow, so as I have stepped over it; some will have it to give the Name unto this Ci­ty: it divideth part of the Suburbs from it, and hath divers Bridges over it. For that we may have a distinct apprehension of Vienna, we must consider the City and Suburbs thereof; the Suburbs are very great, and not without fair Houses, Gardens, Walks, and all Accommo­dations at large.

The City it self is that walled and fortified part, de­signed not only for convenience of Habitation, but also to sustain a Siege, or any Attack from the Turk, and is now separated from the Suburbs by a fair Esplanade, or open Ground, above a Musket shot over. The Houses near the wall were pulled down since the last Fortificati­on in the Turkish war, when they were in some fear that the Turkish Forces about Gran and New-heusel, would move towards them. It is fortified a la moderna, with ten Bastions towards the Land, and a very deep Ditch, into which they can let the Danube: and with two other Bastions towards the water, on that part of the River [Page 74] which lieth on the North-side of the Town. The Bastions are large; upon one of them I saw Count Souches muster a good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is large and very deep, into which although they can let in the River, yet it is commonly kept dry, lest they might incommode their deep Cellars. There are two walls, the one old and inward, little considerable at present, built at first with the ransome of our King Richard the First, who in his return from the Holy War, was detained Prisoner by the Duke of Austria upon the 20th of Decem­ber, 1192. The Austrians pretending they had received some affront from the King at Joppa, and that he had taken down the Ensign and Banner of Duke Leopold in a con­temptuous way. The other outward of a great breadth, made of Earth, and faced with Brick, edged with Free­stone, so well built, as to render this City one of the most considerable fortified places in Europe. The Espla­nade gently descendeth from the Town for three hundred Paces; there are very few Out-works.

It is very uncertain who was the first Builder of Vien­na, and after it had been long built, it ran to decay a­gain for Four hundred years together, till Henry the First, Duke of Austria, in the year 1158. did much re­pair it; and the ransome afterwards of King Richard beautified it.

The whole compass, taking in the Suburbs, makes a very large Circuit, but the City it self, which is walled in, may be about three miles in Circumference, and is exceeding populous, as full of People, for the bigness of the place, as most of the great Cities. And I could not but take delight to behold so many Nations in it, as Turks, Tartars, Graecians, Transylvanians, Sclavonians, Hunga­rians, Croatians, Spaniards, Italians, French, Germans, Polanders, &c. all in their proper Habits.

The chief Gates are six: 1. Stubnthor, or the Stuben Gate towards the East. 2. Karnterthor, or the Gate of Carinthia towards the South. 3. Burgthor, the Town Gate, or Castle Gate. 4. Schottenthor, or the Scotch Gate. 5. Newthor, or the Newgate; these two last to­wards the West: And 6. the Gate of the red Tower to­wards the North, which leadeth unto the Bridge over the Danube: and towards the water side, there is also a Port by the Emperours palace, and a Cloyster or Nunnery in the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port, or the Gate of Heaven. The five first of these Gates are vaulted and arched with long passages through the Town­wall, and have good Bridges of Wood, with Draw­bridges to pass over the Town ditch: The sixth is un­der a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the Danube: For that River running here in a flat low Country, divi­deth its streams, so that to pass it quite over, there are at present seven long Bridges made up of many thousand Tree laid one by another, after their way of making Bridges. There is also a Bridge within the City of Vi­enna, called the Hochbrug, or High-bridge, which is made by the crossing of two Streets at equal Angles; the ground of one street being as high as the tops of the Hou­ses of the other, so that to continue it, they were for­ced to build a Bridge or Arch in the Lower-street, to let the upper pass over it.

The City is fairly built of stone, and well paved; ma­ny Houses are of six stories high; they are somewhat flat roofed after the Italian way; the Streets are not narrow, but the compass of ground will not admit them to be very broad; and their Buildings are remarkable both above and below ground; their Cellars are very deep. To sa­tisfie my curiosity, I went into some of them, and found four Cellars one under another; they were arched, and [Page 76] had two pair of Stairs to descend into them. Some have an open space in the middle of each roof, to let the Air out of one Cellar into another, and from the lowest an adit or tube unto the top, to let the Air in and out from the street, somewhat after the manner of the Mines.

Aenaeas Sylvius, about two hundred years since, com­mending the City of Nurnburg, among other expressions lets fall this: Cuperent Scotorum Reges tam egregiè quam mediocres Cives Norinbergenses habitare. The Kings of Scots would be content to dwell so well as the middle sort of Citizens of Nurnburg. I must confess, when I first entred Nurnburg, I was much surprised to see such a noble, large, spruce, rich, and well built City: But Vi­enna doth also deserve the commendation which he af­fordeth it: Ubi Palatia digna Regibus & Templa quae mi­rari Italia possit. Where there are Palaces fit for Kings and Churches, which Italy may admire. And this being spo­ken so long ago, is now better verified of it.

The Imperial Palace is very Noble, Substantial, and Princely furnished, consisting chiefly of two Courts; the one very large, the other lesser, wherein the Emperour lodgeth. At the Entrance over the Gate, are set in Ca­pital Letters the five Vowels, A, E, I, O, U; whereof the Phancies of men make various Interpretations. That which was told me was this, Austriae est imperare Orbi Universo; or, Alles Erdreich Ist Osterreich Unterthan, i. e. All the World is subject to Austria. Although I could hardly believe this was the first intended meaning. Be­sides these two Courts is another small one, where some of the Pages lodge. I took notice of a large rough Jaspis stone lying upon the ground, little regarded or observed: it is about nine foot Diameter; it was presented unto the Emperour by the Archbishop of Saltzburg, whose Coun­try affordeth notable Quarries, and stones of many sorts; [Page]

[Page] [Page 77] a little piece of it polished, affordeth fine yellow, red, black, and white Veins. The Palace of the Count de Draun, and that which Count Rothal hath lately built and nobly furnished, are very considerable; with many others.

There are also many fair Churches, rich Convents, and Conventual Churches; as that of the Carmelites, of the Franciscans, of the Benedictines, of St. Nicholas; In this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepul­chral Monuments of Count Strozzi and Cardinal Ha­rach. The Dominican Convent is very fair. The Au­gustines have a large Church, in the middle whereof they have built a Chappel after the manner of the Holy House at Loretto; upon the top of which hang the Colours ta­ken from the Turks and Tartars, many of which Ensigns are not square like ours, but made Escucheon-wise, some fil­led with Circles, wherein are expressed half Moons. The Jesuites Colledges are large, who seldome fail of noble Convents, especially in places where they have so good footing as in this. The Front of one of their Colledges openeth into a fair Piazza, in the middle whereof stands a large and high composite Column of Copper upon a Pe­destal of white stone, with four Angels with Escucheons, and on the top the blessed Virgin; Inscriptions also, in which the Emperour dedicates Austria unto her Patro­nage and Tuition. In another Market-place, where the Town-house is, there is a handsome Statua of Justice in Copper.

I could not but observe the Scotch Church and Cloy­ster, which gave also the name unto the Scotch Gate of the City, because I somewhat wondered how the Scots in old time should be so considerable in this place, but I found by Information, and the Account of Lazius and Matthaeus Merian in High-dutch, that this Convent was in [Page 78] former times a great Receptacle for the Scots in their long Pilgrimage unto Jerusalem, founded and endowed by Duke Henry the First, in memory of St. Gregory: and it may seem less strange that the Scots should have a Convent here, and be numerous in these parts in former Ages, if we consider that St. Colman, one of the Saints of the greatest Veneration in this Country was a Scotchman, and said to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland, who, in his passage to Jerusalem was murdered by the Baurs or Coun­try people at Stockerau, four German miles from Vienna, and hanged on a Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body remained uncorrupted for a year and a half, and divers Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken down, and honourably interred near Stockerau; but by Meginhard Bishop of Aichstadt it was translated unto Melk, and af­terwards sent into Hungary, and his Head kept a long time at Stullweissenburg, or Alba Regalis, according to the Account which is here given of this Saint.

The Church of St. Peter is also considerable, not for its Splendour but Antiquity, as being accounted the ol­dest in the City, standing in a place where in old time there stood an Altar in honour of Domitian, called Ara Flaviana. In this Church lieth the Body of that famous and learned Person Wolfgangus Lazius, with this Epitaph or Inscription:

Magnifico Nobili Clarissimo atque summâ eruditione or­natissimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien. Philoso­phiae atque Medicinae Doctori & Professori Primario, Ce­leberrimi Archigymnasii Viennensis Rectori & Superinten­denti Caesareo, & ejusdem Sacrae Caesareae Majest. Fer­dinandi Sanctissimae memoriae Consiliario & Historico Pe­ritissimo, defuncto Anno Domini MDLXXXVI.

In the Church of the Capucines Convent, are interred the Emperour Matthias and his Empress, and the Em­press Maria, wife to Ferdinand the Third, who out of their Devotion and Humility, chose to be buried in a Church of this poor Order. And the Capucines not ad­mitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as in the Churches of other Orders, no Tombs are erected worthy so great an Emperour, and such Empresses.

But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, containeth divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Persons, and is a large stately Building, but somewhat dark by reason of the thick painted Glass: not covered with Lead, but with Tiles of wood, which is the only blemish thereof, yet makes a good show. The Steeple and Spire are very remarkable, as being high, large, strong, and handsome. On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire stands a Cross under a Star and half Moon, according to the Figure I have elsewhere set down, which the People think to be of Gold, or at least very well gilded: and in the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whitish.

They have this Account how these came first to be set up in this place: That when Solyman the Magnificent be­sieged Vienna, perceiving the Forces in the City to be obstinate, he had an intent to batter down the Steeple a­bout their ears: But some of the Bassa's and great Com­manders, advertising him how unprofitable a business it would prove, and withal when he took the City, what an honour it would be unto him to have such a Noble Py­ramid in his Dominions: He sent word into the Town, That he was willing to spare the Steeple, upon condition that they would set up the half Moon and Star (the Tur­kish Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned An­swer that they would, if he would send the same [Page 80] unto them, which he did, and they placed it where it standeth.

This Spire hath the largest Crockets I have observed in any, they being above a yard long, and adorned with foliage work. The Spire of Landshute in Bavaria, is accounted the highest in Germany; that of Strasburg the neatest and fairest; and this of Vienna the largest and strongest. And therefore it is no wonder that when the Ambassadours of Bosna formerly came unto Vienna, they so often viewed and admired this Fabrick, and plainly said that all the mony in their Country was not sufficient to have built it.

This Steeple is accounted about four hundred sixty and five foot high, being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight steps. Besides other Hills, I could see Haimburger Hill within two miles of Presburg, and a great part of Austria, which the long Course of the Da­nube rendred very pleasant and delightful unto the eye. In the Chamber or Room from whence I had this prospect, there is a Clock, whose Case being of wood, was in part burnt down by Lightning, and therefore there is water always kept in this place to extinguish the fire, and a man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells hand. There is also an Instrument of wood, or wooden Bells or Hammers, which they make use of from Good­friday till Easter-sunday, all the time that our Saviour was in the Grave, during which time they permit no Bells to ring.

At one of the doors of the Church there is a stone pla­ced in the wall, which is generally conceived to be one of the stones wherewith St. Stephen was stoned. It seem­ed to me some kind of pebble, and is worn and polished by the hands of the people, who when they enter at that door, do touch it with their fingers. I was also shewed [Page]

[Page] [Page 81] one of the stones which killed St. Steven at St. Sernine, or St. Saturnine's Church in Tholouse in France, which is a Church abounding with Relique-Rarities, and where they also think they have the Bodies of seven of the A­postles, of St. George, of our King St. Edmund, and of forty Saints.

In this Church of St. Stephen, besides many Monu­ments of great Princes and famous Persons, divers learn­ed men have Sepulchral Inscriptions; as Johannes Faber Bishop of Vienna; Johannes Cuspinianus, and Sebastianus Tengnagelius, formerly Library-keeper, Historiogra­pher, and Counsellor to the Emperour, an extraordina­ry learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages, as the Inscription delivers; as Hebrew, Syriack, Chaldee, Persian, Arabick, Turkish, Aethiopick, Greek, Latin, Italian, French, Spanish, German, Belgick, and Eng­lish.

The University of Vienna is also remarkable, if we conssider the Antiquity thereof, the number of Scholars, their course of Studies, their accommodations, privi­ledges and advancements. This is said to have been be­gun by Albertus the Third, above three hundred years past; and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been borrowed from the University of Paris, and the Students were distinguished into four Divisions or Nations; who, besides the General, have their particular Rules and Officers, and were comprehended under the Classis of Austrians, Nations of the Rhine, Hungarians, and Saxons.

In the Austrian Division were contained the Friulians, all of the Diocese of Trent, all Italy, with the other Pro­vinces beyond the Mountains. [...] vian the Classis of the Rhine were comprehended Sue­ [...], Alsatians, Franconians, Hassians, d all the Pro­vinces [Page 82] to the South-west, as France, Spain, Navarre, Holland, Brabant.

In the third Classis, or Natio Hungariae, were contain­ed Hungarians, Bohemians, Polonians, Moravians, Scla­vonians, all that speak the Sclavonian Tongue, and also Germans.

To the Classis, or Natio Saxonum, were reduced Sax­ons, Westphalians, Frislanders, Turingians, Misnians, Brandenburgers, Prussians. Livonians, Lusatians, Pome­ranians, with the Ultramarine Kingdoms of England, Scotland, Ireland, Sweden, Norway, and Denmark.

These Divisions take up all the Nations of Europe; and indeed there are Students here of many Nations: and upon Contentions and Differences the several Classes will hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy against each other, but will all unite and hold together in differ­ences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen sometimes unto an high degree.

They follow here the old beaten way of Knowledge: and I met with few who had any good insight in new Phi­losophy; but there are many good Philologers, and are well versed in Languages, History and Antiquity: and there are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from other parts. Some who had taken notice of the Royal Socie­ty in London, were very inquisitive after it; and when I had satisfied them in all particulars, were very much pleased therewith. If they should fall into the way of Experimental Philosophy, being very industrious, 'tis ve­ry probable they may do much therein, and they were sure to have the countenance of the Emperour. I found them also much affected with the English Society in other parts of Germany. At the University of Altorff I was much enquired of concerning it: and a Magistrate of Nurnburg, who had got a Telescope from London, invited [Page 83] me to his House, to practise the way of using it. Der Herr von Adlershelme of Leipsick, a Person of great Cu­riosity, was very inquisitive after the same Society. And of late years the Curiosi of Germany have held Learned Con­ventions and Correspondence, and printed their Obser­vations at Leipsick. And since my Return into England, I have been solicited from Cassovia in Upper Hungary, to send the Transactions into those Parts.

During my stay at Vienna, I went unto a publick Ana­to my of a Woman that was beheaded: the Lecture lasted so long, that the Body was Nineteen days unburied. It was performed by a Learned Physician, Dr. Wolfstregel, who read in Latin to the satisfaction of all persons. What I most particularly observed therein was this, The Pyra­midal Muscles very plain and large; the Uterus larger than is usually observed; the Cartilago Ensiformis double; the Lungs very black; the Eye was very well shown; he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large one of Pastboard and Paper, contrived and made by him­self; the Muscles of the Pharynx, Larynx, Os Hyoides, and the Tongue, after their dissection, he reduced very handsomely into their proper places again, to shew their natural situation and position. The Anatomy-Theatre was of capacity to receive above an hundred persons; and according to the custome of other places, to avoid imper­tinent Spectators, a piece of Mony was given for admis­sion. Of Anatomy-Theatres, until of late, there have been few in Germany, or none. And when I was in the Anato­my-School at Altorff, near Nurenburg, that learned and ci­vil Professor, Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus, told me that the same was the First in Germany.

Paulus de Sorbait, Prime Professor, Physician unto E­leonora the Empress Dowager, and Knight of Hungary, was the Rector Magnificus. Zwelfer, who writ Animad­versions [Page 84] upon the Dispensatory of Ausburg, was in great re­pute in Vienna, and had built for himself a noble House in the City, but he died some time before my coming thi­ther.

In fine, the University is noble, their Advancements considerable, their Priviledges great, and they have the power of life and death, from ancient and latter Conces­sions of their Dukes and Emperours.

But the greatest lustre unto Vienna is the Residence of the present Emperour Leopoldus; he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Third; he was baptized by the Names of Leopoldus, Ig­natius, Franciscus, Balthazar, Josephus, Felicianus. His eldest Brother Ferdinand, King of the Romans, died of the Small Pox in his Fathers time. His Brother Carolus Josephus, Master of the Teutonick Order, dyed 1662. He married Margareta Infanta of Spain, daughter unto King Philip the Fourth, whose Children died Infants; a ver­tuous, affable, grave, and worthy Prince, and seemed to me to live very happily here, in the love and honour of his People, Souldiers, and Clergy.

His Person is grave and graceful; he hath the Austrian Lip remarkably, his Chin long, which is taken for a good Physiognomical mark, and a sign of a constant, placid, and little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predecessours, that is, of Rudolphus the First, of Maximilian the First, of Charles the Fifth, and Ferdinand the First. He was very affecti­onate unto his Empress, who, though but young, was a modest, grave Princess, had a good aspect, was zealous in her Religion, and an Enemy unto the Jews. He shewed also great respect and observance unto the Empress Dow­ager Eleonora, who was a sober and prudent Princess, well skilled in all kind of curious Works, and delighted [Page 85] sometimes to shoot at Deer from a Stand, or at other Game, out of her Coach. He was also very loving unto his Sisters, beautiful and good Ladies; whereof one, the eldest, was since married unto that Noble Prince Michael Wisnowitzski, King of Poland.

He speaks four Languages, German, Italian, Spanish, and Latin. He is a great countenancer of Learned Men, and delighteth to read, and when occasion permitteth, will pass some hours at it. The worthy Petrus Lambe­cius his Library Keeper, and who is in great esteem with him, will usually find out some Books for him which he conceiveth may be acceptable. While I was there he re­commended a Translation of Religio Medici unto him, wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly pleased, and spake very much of it unto Lambecius, insomuch that Lambecius asked me whether I knew the Author, he be­ing of my own name, and whether he were living: And when he understood my near Relation to him, he became more kind and courteous than ever, and desired me to send him that Book in the Original English, which he would put into the Emperours Library: and presented me with a neat little Latin Book, called Princeps in Com­pendio, written by the Emperours Father, Ferdinandus the Third.

He is also skilful in Musick, composeth well, and de­lighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church, which makes so many Musicians in Vienna; for no place abounds more with them; and in the Evening we seldom failed of Musick in the Streets, and at our Windows: And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church-men take the greater care to set off their Church-musick, for he goeth often to Church, and not to one, but divers, e­specially the best Conventual Churches: and in his own Chappel some of his own Compositions are often play'd. [Page 86] He hath also excellent Musick in his Palace, both Vocal and Instrumental; and his private Chappel is well ser­ved, where besides the excellent Musick, there are al­ways eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperour, who serve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands; and after the manner of the Italian Princes, divers Eunuchs to sing.

For his Recreations abroad, he delighteth much in Hunting, especially of the wild Boar in due seasons; I have known him bring home six Boars in a morning. Some stout persons, particularly Count Nicholas Serini, would encounter a wild Boar alone, but at last he unfortunately perished by one, which hath made others more wary since; and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Hunts­men so stand about him, that the Emperour, or other great persons, may more safely make use of their Boar­spears upon him.

Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country, for they are no unusual or extraordinary Dish in the City, though of a delicious and pleasing taste. They feed upon Acorns, Beech-mast, and Chesnuts, upon the spring or sprout of Broom, Juniper, and Shrubs, and up­on the roots of Fern, and will range into Corn-fields, and come out of Forrests into Vineyards. The Hunts­men are notably versed and skilful in that Game; for though they see it not, they will distinguish a wild from a common Swine, and ghess whether that which they hunt be Male or Female, old or young, large or small, fat or lean; and this they chiefly conjecture from their tread or foot, and the casting their hindfeet out of the track of their forefeet.

The Emperour being so good a Huntsman, it is the less wonder that he is esteemed a good Horsman. Certain it is, that he hath a very noble Stable of Horses, procured [Page 87] from all parts, Turkish, Tartarian, Polonian, Transylvanian, Saxon, Bohemian, Hungarian, Naples, &c. and they are well managed; and they ride them to the satisfaction of the Beholders.

Having seen the Arsenal at Venice, the Stores at Chat­ham, and the Naval Provisions at Amsterdam, I am not like to admire any other, especially so far from the Sea, and looked for nothing of that nature in this place. Not­withstanding I found an Arsenal, and place for Naval Vessels to be set out upon occasion, and some thereof were employed in the last Turkish war, when they at­tempted to destroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks had made over the Danube, a little above Gran and Bare­han. They are built somewhat like Galleys, carry great Guns, and a good number of Souldiers, and will make a sight upon the broad deep stream of the Danube, and may be handsomely brought into the Town behind one of the Bastions, when the River is high; and hereof there are some at Rab and Komora, as I have declared elsewhere.

The Emperour hath many Counsellors, great Souldiers and Courtiers about him; among which these seemed of greatest Note.

Eusebius Wenceslaus Duke de Sagan, Prince Lobko­witz, Pirme Counsellor, Hoff-meister, of the Or­der of the Golden Fleece, a person of a grave and sober Aspect, somewhat blunt in conversation, but of a gener­ous temper, and free from all covetousness, who spent his Revenues nobly, and unto his great reputation: He was chief Favorite unto the Emperour; and though some had no great opinion of his Abilities, yet he was the first that discovered the last Hungarian defection and revolt, whereby those Noble Persons, Count Peter Serini and Nadasti (whom I saw at Vienna) were brought unto their ends.

Henricus Gulielmus, Count of Stahrenberg, Ober-hoff-Mareschal, or Lord Marshal of the Court.

Johannes Maximilianus, Count of Lamburg, Oberst-Kammer-Herr, or Chief of the Chamber, a Person of great esteem. The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous, and many are in extraordinary; there may be an hundred of them, all Barons and Counts. Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Breast: and the Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel: Two of each attend every Night.

Gundakerus, Count Dietrichstein, Oberst-Stall-Meister, or Chief Master of the Horse.

These are the Chief. These following are also consi­derable.

Count Sinzendorff, Oberste-Jag-Meister, Grand Ve­neur, or Hunts-Master, a Person in good favour with the Emperour, who very much delighteth in Hunting, as have most of his Predecessors.

The Count of Aversberg Oberst Falken-Meister, Chief Falconer, who hath twelve Falconers under him.

The Count of Paar, Chief Master of the Emperours Post.

Leopoldus Wilhelmus, Marquiss of Baden, Captain of an hundred Hartshires, who are the Horse-guard, and ride with Pistols and Carabines out of the City; but within Vienna they cary Launces and Javelins with broad points.

Franciscus Augustinus, Count of Wallensteyn, Captain of an hundred of the Foot-guard, of a good Personage, and well esteemed of by the Emperour.

Sixty, or more, Pages, for the number is uncertain, and not limited; most of them Counts and Barons.

Raymundus, Count de Montecuculi, was his General, President of the Council of War, Governour of Rab and [Page 89] the Confines about it, and of the Order of the Golden Fleece; a tall Person, somewhat lean, but hath a spirit in his look: he is one of the oldest Commanders in Europe, and performed good Service in Poland, Hungary, Ger­many in many places, and is esteemed a prudent, valiant, and successful Commander.

The Count de Souches was also a Commander of great Fame, and in high esteem with the Emperour. He was a Native of Rochelle: he first served the Swedes in the German wars, and was a Colonel, but upon some disgust he forsook the Swedes, and served the Imperialists, and was made Governour of Brin, the second Town in Mo­ravia. After the taking of Crembs in Austria, General Torstenson besieged Brin, and sent word unto the Govern­our de Souches, That if he refused to deliver up the Town he would give him no quarter. Who answered him, That he would not ask any, and also give none: and defended the place with such resolution, that after many Assaults, Underminings, and Attempts by Granado's, Torstenson was forced to rise, after a Siege of four months, which was so advantagious unto Austria and the Imperial affairs, that the Emperour took especial notice of him, made him a Baron, and of his Privy Council. He commanded also all the Forces in Vienna, and did notable Service in the last Turkish wars. He took the City of Nitra, or Nitria, not far from Strigonium or Gran; and took and slew six thousand Turks which were sent by the Vizier of Buda a­gainst him: a worthy Person, and of a good Aspect. Count Souches the younger his Son, an Heroick Com­mander, is Governour of the strong fortified place Leopold­stadt by Freistadt, a Person of great Civility, unto whom I was much obliged.

Count Lesly, Nephew unto Count Lesly who was sent Ambassadour to Constantinople to the Sultan from the Em­perour, [Page 90] is a Commander worthy of that esteem he hath with the Emperour; a Person of great Courage, Civility and Humanity, which I must ever acknowledge.

The Courts of the Empress, and of the Empress Dow­ager, are filled with Persons of Note; and there are a great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame, as the Marquiss Pio, Spork, Cops, and many more. Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning, are in good esteem with the Emperour; but the Jesuites Milner and Bocca­bella are his near Favorites. Many Strangers, both Soul­diers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here. And surely Strangers of parts and industry, so they be of the Roman Church, are not like to raise their Fortunes any where better than in these parts.

Though the Emperour goeth not to war in Person, yet hath he been successful in his wars, especially in the last Battel with the Turks at St. Godart, where the business was handsomly and actively managed, to set upon the body of the Turks, which had passed the River Rab, before the whole Forces of the Vizier could come over, to the great slaughter of the Janisaries and Turks, who fought stout­ly, and were first put to a Retreat by the French Caval­ry. For at first the Turks seemed to prevail, and had slain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries which came out of Franconia, and after their custome, had cut off their Heads.

Among the many notable things in Vienna, the Imperi­al Library is very remarkable. He who hath seen the Bodleian Library at Oxford, and the Vatican at Rome, would be much surprised to find such a notable one here, as may compare with them; especially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe.

The number and nobleness of the Books doth much ex­ceed the receptacle or place which containeth them, as [Page 91] making no fair shew at the entrance, and somewhat want­ing light. But as for the number and value of the Books, they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none, but rather excelleth any other Library in Europe. There was a place designed for the building of a fit receptacle for them; but, I know not how, a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place.

It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms, which are so well filled, that many Books are fain to lye upon the Floor; and the Shelves stand so close, that there is but just room to pass between them. The Manuscripts stand distinct from the printed Books, according to their Languages, being divided into six Classes, Theological, Juridical, Medical, Philosophical, Historical, Philologi­cal. There can scarce be a more admirable Collection than the Manuscripts in part of the first Chamber, of He­brew, Syriack, Arabick, Turkish, Armenian, Aethiopick, and Chinese Books.

It was begun, at least the Books began to be placed in this receptacle, by Maximilian the First, but hath been much encreased by succeeding Emperours, most of them, since Rodolphus the First, being much addicted unto Learning, there having been large accessions from many noble Libraries, and most upon the cost of the Emper­ours. The choicest Books in the famous Library of Bu­da, of King Matthias Corvinus, Son unto Huniades, are now in it. The notable Library of Wolfgangus La­zius, who was Library-Keeper, was brought hither, and Three thousand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repository.

Augerius Busbequius, sometime Library-Keeper hereof, added much unto it; and in his two Turkish Embassies procured great number of noble Greek Manuscripts at Constantinople, which are inscribed with his own hand, [Page 92] Aug. de Busbeck. emit Constantinopoli. A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cuspini­anus, Library Keeper, and Counsellor unto the Emper­our. The notable Libraries and Mathematical Instru­ments of Tycho Brahe, Kepler, and Gassendus, were pur­chased for it. But the largest accession was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger, which consisting of six­teen thousand Volumes, was purchased by Ferdinand the Third. Many were brought, some few years past, from the Ambrasian Library by Inspruck, by the Learned Pe­trus Lambecius, Library Keeper, Historiographer, and Counsellor unto the present Emperour; who hath also an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial. He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at least to Fourscore thousand; and by this time that number may be increased, for he ad­deth some yearly. And the number might almost be endless, if they would make use of their priviledge, for the Emperour hath a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany.

They have also a great advantage at Vienna, to acquire good Manuscripts from the Turkish Dominions, for the Emperour is obliged to have a Resident with the Grand Signor wheresoever he moveth or ordereth him to be; even at the last sight of St. Godart, the Emperour's Resident was in the Turkish Camp. And when I was at Larissa in Thessaly, the Resident Signor di Casa Nova, was inquisi­tive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Mona­steries and other places. And this Emperour, like his Father, will spare no cost toward such Acquiries.

By the especial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius, I went many times into this Library, and he was so cour­teous as to let me have what Books I desired unto my pri­vate Lodging: He would shew me divers Books upon [Page 93] what Subject I required, and offered me a sight of what Books he thought rare and estimable; and amongst others I could not but take notice of these following.

A Letter of the present Emperour of China, in the Chinese and Tartarian Languages, unto the present Em­perour of Germany, weaved in a very fine Roll.

Another old Roll written in unknown Letters, yet a little resembling the Greek.

A Book in the Runick Language.

A very fair Manuscript of Ptolomy, with the Mapps drawn in Colours.

The oldest Manuscript and true Exemplar of Livie, in large Letters, without distinction of Words or Sentences, very uneasie to be read, a thousand years old, and brought, not many years since, from the Library near Inspruck.

An old fair Greek Manuscript of Dioscorides, written eleven hundred years since, in very large Letters, without distance of Words, or Accents, wherein all the Plants are lively painted; also the Pictures of Dioscorides, Galen, Pamphilus, Cratevas, and other ancient Physicians, bought of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Bus­bequius.

A Book of Geometrical Propositions demonstrated in the China Language.

Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pi­ctures.

A noble old Greek Manuscript in great uncial Letters, without stops, points, or distance of words.

An ancient Greek Manuscript of the Book of Genesis, in large Letters, without distance or accents, thirteen hun­dred years ago; wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water colours, much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits, the manner of Feast­ing, [Page 94] postures at Meals, waiting of Servants and Musical Instruments: Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Josephs breast; and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh's Baker, his Head being put through a forked piece of wood, and his Hands tyed behind him.

A fair Book of Albert Durer, wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning; as also a Sphere, and within it a Globe carved and painted by him.

A fair Book of Michael Angelo, wherein, besides many rare things in Architecture, are all the paintings and de­signs of the Belvedere in little.

A fair Alcoran in Arabick, interlined with the Turkish to explain it.

The Bible in the Coptick and Persian Languages.

Luther's own Bible, marked with his own Hand, and interlined by him with Notes in many places.

A fair Greek Manuscript of the New Testament, fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Pur­ple.

There was also a Magical Glass, obtained by the Em­perour Rodolphus, whereby to see Apparitions, and con­verse with Spirits; which some conceive to be the same, or of the like nature with that used by Kelly.

Of ancient Greek, Roman, and Gothick Medals and Coyns, in Gold, Silver, and Copper, to the number of six­teen thousand. Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperour Marcus Otho.

I let fall some Drops into this Ocean, adding some Coyns, Intaglia's, and Inscriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus; which having found in the Em­perours furthest Dominions and Turkish parts, long out of his possession, where there had been no great enquiry af­ter them; were shewed unto his Imperial Majesty by Pe­trus [Page 95] Lambecius, and so well accepted by him, that he said I might have the use of what Books I desired: and at my return into England he gave me a formal Pass in Latin for my safe Travel, and that my Trunks or Goods might not be searched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in passing so many Principalities and free Cities, Command­ing all in his own Dominions, and Requesting all Princes in Germany to favour me, and permit me to pass freely without molestation: It was thus Subscribed,

The Rarities of the great Duke of Tuscany, The Trea­sure of Loretto, St. Mark, St. Denis in France, of the Duke of Saxony at Dresden, and others, were very sa­tisfactory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, I would not leave Vienna without a sight of the most noble Trea­sury or Repository of his Imperial Majesty; especially ha­ving heard so much thereof, and knowing it to be the Collection of many succeeding Emperours. I therefore took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it, and was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent Curiosities thereof. To set down all I saw, were a work too large for this Volume; and the Catalogue of them, which is kept in this place, taketh up a large Volume in Folio. I shall therefore only mention these following, [Page 96] whereby some conjecture may be made of the rest.

In the first Cupboard or Case were many noble Vessels, turned and shaped out of Ivory, a Cup turned by the Emperours own Hand; another turned by Ferdinandus the Third. Gallant Cups of Amber; Spoons and Vessels of Mother of Pearl; many noble works in Coral; a fine Galley in Ivory, and Cups made out of Rhinocerot's horn.

In the second, An Elephant of Ivory with a Castle upon his back, and over the Castle a Ship, with much other fine work in the same piece. Two fair Pillars of Ivory; good Basso Re­lievo in Ivory; a fair Cranium or Deaths-head, and much other variety of Ivory work. A Picture in Oyl of Ga­nimede, by Corregio.

In the third, A fine Picture of an old Man's head in Oyl by Albert Durer: great Variety of Watches and Clock-work in Sil­ver: a fine Centaur in Silver, which is a curious Watch.

In the fourth, More Watches and Clock-work; a gallant Ship of Silver, a Triumphal Chariot, a Turk riding and attended, a Globe and a Sphere in Silver, a curious Landskip in Oyl by Cor­regio, a Cupid by the same hand, with a fine Copy of it.

In the fifth, A curious Filigrane Handkerchief, and two fair File­grane Plates brought out of Spain by the Empress Mar­garita; an Indian Basket of an Indian sort of Filegrane mixed with Birds; a Bason of Agate finely wrought with silver Craw-fishes in it.

In the sixth, Is contained a strange Collection of Intaglie and old Ro­man Stones, admirable for their work and largeness. A large Agate whereon is wrought the History of that Victory which Augustus Caesar obtained over the Dalmatians and Pannonians in the ninth year of our Lord; about five inches long, and four broad, highly valued.

An Onyx with the Head of Alexander and Olympia.

A Shell with a Battel carved in it.

A Chain with the Heads of all the Austrian Family.

A Dog in a very large Sardonyx.

In the seventh, A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The Head of Maximilianus the First in Plaister, with a lock of his own Hair. Mother of Pearl in many shapes. Fine Bas­kets, and the twelve Caesar's Heads.

In the eighth, most of Chrystal, A noble Vessel about a yard and half high, made out of one piece of Chrystal. An Urne. The Head of the Empress. A fair Dragon. The Head of the Queen-Mother of France. A Chrystal in which the Picture of our Saviour may be seen thrice one way, and once another way.

The ninth of Chrystal also, A noble Ewer. A fair Vessel of very clear Chrystal, lately bought. A large Head. Fair Crosses, and other Varieties.

The tenth of Gold and precious Stones. Five Crowns. The Imperial Crown; rich in Jewels, and hath a very large blew Saphir on the top. A Model of that Crown with which the Emperour is crowned, much [Page 98] richer than the Original. A Paragon Diamond of seven­teen Carats and a half. Very large Rubies. A Scepter of Unicorns horn, set with rich Stones. A Locket of the greatest Diamonds. A magnificent Scepter, Globe, Cross, and Crown, which cost seven hundred thousand Crowns. An Opal bigger than my hand, as it was taken out of the Mine; and many other fair Opals. A very large Emerald. A Ship in an Emerald. A fair Ring-Dial.

The eleventh of Gold. A noble Bason used at the Baptism of the Austrian Fa­mily. Scepters, Scimeters, Knives, and other rich Pre­sents from the Turk. Three rich Dog-Collars, sent with three Dogs out of England, with this Mark on them ↃC ↃC. A large lump of pure Gold, as it was taken out of the Mine, as broad as my hand. A fair piece of Gold Ore, wherein the pure Gold shooteth upon a white Stone. Divers great Basons of Gold and Coral.

In the twelfth. Vessels of Jaspis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Granates. Cups of Onyx, Sardonyx. Large ones of Lapis Nephriti­cus: and a great one of an Amethyst.

In the thirteenth. A large high Vessel of Bohemian Topaz. Flowers well made out of precious Stones. A Cup of an Hungarian Dia­mond. A piece of Ambergreece as big as a mans head, sent from the Grand Signor. A noble Jaspis-stone. A large Stone of Agate on the outside, and a bed of large Ame­thysts naturally in it in the middle, which is an extra­ordinary and pleasant Rarity.

In the rest, Noble Chrysolites, Jacynths, Oriental Granates, Berylt or Aquamarines. The notable rich Smaragdus, or Eme­rald, or a Cup out of that Stone. Three great ones ha­ving been already taken out, valued at three hundred thousand Crowns. A Picture in Oyl of the little King Uladislaus Lokeli, King of Hungary. Ten rich Turkish Saddles with Furniture for Horses, set with fair Turcois Stones. A great number of Gold Vessels and fine Figures in Coral, Turkish Knives, Gauntlets, and Table men of Gold. Delicate Pictures in Wax. Very large Bezoar-stones, In­dian-gold Cards and Counters. A vast Medal of the Em­perours Arms, weighing two thousand two hundred Du­cats, or a thousand pounds English. A Cup out of Solo­mon's Temple. Fair Amber, Rare Inlaying in Wood. Bac­chus and other Statua's out of a very high Rhinocerot's horn. A fine Picture of the Mountain Vesuvius. Jewels with black Feathers given by the Turkish Ambassadours. A notable Picture of a lean Skeleton Priest, who lived so four years. A noble Cabinet-clock with large motions. A fair Bason and Ewer of carved Ivory. King Philip the Second of Spain in Diamond Armour, set in Gold. A neat Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman, with this Motto:

A Knife swallowed by a Peasant near Prague, which was nine months in his Stomach, and safely cut out 1602. The like happened also to a person in Prussia, of which Daniel Becker hath written a peculiar Tract under this Title, De Cultrivoro Prussiaco. A fair Crucifix of Pearl. Indian Pictures made of Feathers. The King of Sweden, Gusta­vus Adolphus's Buff-coat in which he was killed at the Bat­tel of Lutzen. Tilly's Sword. An Angel in Ivory with [Page 100] Hair and Clothes of Filegrane of Gold. A neat Crucifix of Wood by Albertus Durer, Two very large Looking­glasses with the Frames of Silver. All the Gospels writ­ten and painted. Many brave Statua's and Pictures e­very where. The Head of Charles the First King of Eng­land, in white Marble. A Pedistal of Amber, over which a Cross. The Head of St. Valerius Bishop of Triers. The Picture of St. Katherine of Sienna, drawn by Sigismund King of Poland. A Picture of the Emperour as he giveth Audience, to be looked upon through a little round hole. A neat Table of Inlay'd Stone made by the present Empress Dowager Eleonora. A Nail of our Saviour's Cross almost a foot long; our Saviour's Blood; and two Thorns of his Crown, the one whiter than the other. Priests Garments covered all over with large Pearl. The great and high esteemed Agate Dish, between three and four spans Diameter, with XRISOS naturally in it. Unto which one applied that of St. Luke, Dico vobis quia si hi tacuerint, lapides clamabunt.

Unto which magnificent Rarities there is one more added, the noble Chain of Pearl of eight yards long, ta­ken from the Graff Tokoly in the late Hungarian war, as I understand since my Return.

I went unto divers noted Places about Vienna: I walk­ed unto the Hill of Vienna, two English miles distant from the Town, going up all the way by an easie Ascent; from whence I had a prospect of the City, and the Campagnia about it, together with the high Mountains in Steirmark covered with Snow: and in my return saw the Palace of the Empress Dowager without the Town, called la Favo­rita, and passed by the Convent of the Paulini.

About two English miles Eastward from Vienna, there is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperour, built by Rodolphus the Second, which hath been formerly [Page 101] well furnished, and provided with Plants, but now seems to be neglected, and somewhat ruinous. It consisteth of an inward and an outward square Garden: The inward is two hundred ordinary paces square, about the same big­ness with the Place Royal at Paris: It hath a Portico or Cloyster, supported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on each side, and is covered with Copper; as are also the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold. Besides this, there is an handsome row of Buildings well seated, called Néw-gabaú, in which at present are many wild Beasts kept. Lions and Tigres breed here, and have young ones. Some say this was the place of Solyman the Magnificents Tent when he besieged Vienna.

There is also, about two or three miles from Vienna, a noted place of Devotion, called Arnols, much frequen­ted, especially in Lent, divers carrying Crosses very heavy all the way upon their shoulders. There is here a little House built exactly after that of the Sepulchre at Jerusalem; and also a handsome Copy of the Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary, with their exact heights. That of our Saviour is about two yards high; that of the blessed Virgin three or four singers breadth lower: These are taken from the Original in St. John de Lateran at Rome. Hither the Empress desired to go one morning from her own Palace on foot, out of Devotion, which she perform­ed, though with a great deal of difficulty, she being not used to walk, and the way was dusty. The Emperour accompanied her, and all the Court followed on foot, which made a handsome shew.

Nearer unto Vienna there is also a remarkable place for Devotion, called Itzing: and in the way from Vienna unto it, the twelve Stations of the Cross are marked out in imitation of what is observed near Jerusalem, in the Via Crucis, or Dolorosa, in our Saviours proceeding from [Page 102] the City unto Mount Calvary; the Figures thereof are printed, and the several paces between every Station set down. The Emperour hath a handsome Park near Vien­na, called the Brater, wherein I beheld the effects of the great Lightning and Thunder which happened three days before, upon many great Trees which were torn, split, or twisted. There is a House of Pleasure in it, where among other things, I could not but take notice of a Musical Instrument which I had not seen before, a Seat or Chest-drum; it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trumpet, but soundeth like a Kettle-drum.

I went also unto Laxambourg, whither the Emperour often retireth; he hath a House in this place, but it is old, and not large. There is also a House of Pleasure in the Mote, into which there is no other passage but through a high Gorridore. The Castle is commodiously seated for the Emperours recreation; and there is an eight-square House in the Marsh, from which the Nobility and the Empress Dowager sometimes used to shoot, she being very expert therein. Over the Gate of the Emperours House hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, whereof I could get no better account, then they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of a heathen-maid. They seemed to me to be Bones of an Elephant But many things that are old or obscure, they call, in this Country, Heathen: as Roman Coyns, they call Heathen mony. And the Peasants brought me, in a place which had been formerly an old Roman Station, part of the bit of a Bridle digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key.

From hence I went unto Mannersdorff, seated not far from the River Leyta, where there is a natural hot Bath, called the Wildebath; it ariseth under a Church, the Church being built over the Spring-head. The water of it is but Lukewarm, and therefore when they desire it hotter, they boyl it, and so bathe in Tubs in a large room. [Page 103] From that Substance which sticketh to the sides of the Coppers in the boyling of it, they judge it to be impreg­nated with Sulphur, Salt-peter, and Chalk. The water colours the stones, and makes them look, when wet, like fine Turquoises. And the vapour of the Bath hanging up­on the Moss on the sides, gives it an Amber or Gold co­lour. The Physicians of Vienna have given a good ac­count concerning the use of these Baths in High-dutch. Not far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone, out of which a great part of Vienna is built. The Stones being large they cut and square them at the Quarry.

From hence I proceeded to the Newsidler-sea or Lake, so called from Newsidle, which is a Town seated upon the Northern part of it, consisting of one street and some back-houses, and a small, square, old Castle upon a Hill, from whence I had a good prospect over the Lake. It is about three German miles broad, and seven miles long. The fairest Lake in these parts, affording plenty of Fish; encompassed and thickly set about with small Towns and Villages; and hath no River, at least not considerable, running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate of Newsidle they dig out a black earth, out of which they make Salt peter. In this Journey, not far from Himburg, we passed by a place called Rauckward, which, though it seems not high, looks over a great part of Austria, and as far as Brin, the second City of Moravia, a part also of the Kingdom of Bohemia, and a part of the Kingdom of Hungaria. I went afterwards four English miles up the Stream of the Danube, to see a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called Altenburg. The beds, rows, or cases of the Stones lye not horizontally, but rather elevated Northward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are not always so regularly placed, but rather follow the shape of the Hill, and according to that are differently [Page 104] situated. Here I also observed a Substance between a Clay and a Stone called Leberstein, or Liverstone; and upon many of these Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves, though not so deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence; yet very prettily marked, and often with broader Leaves than I had elsewhere observed. I passed forward to Closter-Neuburg, a Town most of it belonging to that notable rich Monastery seated here, founded by St. Leopoldus Marquess of Austria, and since much enriched by succeeding Donations.

Matthaeus Merian hath a goodcut of the Prospect of the Danube here abouts, and in what manner it passeth down­wards between the two great Hills of Kalenburg and Bisn­burg. Upon one Peak of Kalenburg live divers Camal­dulenses, of an Order the most severe of any, living most upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermites. Near their Cells they had paved the ground with those Stones I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the shapes of Trees and Plants.

After an open Autumn there followed a sharp Winter at Vienna, in the months of December and January. The branches of the Danube were soon frozen over. The main Stream, by reason of its swift Current, held out longer, but was afterwards also frozen. Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others. And we read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen; but I could not make any regular Observation thereof. This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow, afforded handsome Recreations unto men, and some unto the Ladies, in running Courses in handsome Sleds and Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were well contrived in the shape of Gryphins, Tigers, Swans, Scallop Shells, Dolphins, Peacocks, and the like Curiosities, carved, paint­ed, and gilded. The Lady sits in one of these, richly ha­bited [Page 105] in Velvet, lined with rich Furrs, set off with Lace and Jewels, in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables. The Sled is drawn by a Horse, dressed up with Feathers of all co­lours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stags horns behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments: one or more Pages ride by on Horse-back with Torches in their hands. And after this manner they perform their Course upon the frozen Snow about the streets of Vienna in the night, with good speed one after another. A Gentleman sits behind the Lady and guides the Horse. But the Frost breaking up put an end to these Recreations. The Frost began and ended here the same day that it began and end­ed in England.

The Festivity of Christmas was observed much after the same Manner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities as in Italy. On Christmas-day the Emperour dined publickly, attend­ed with many Nobles and great Persons, and three re­markable low Dwarfs. Upon St. Stephens-day he went to the Cathedral of St. Stephen, and went up to the Altar, kneeled, and kissed the Plate whereon the Hostia had lain. At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide, the old custome of choo­sing King and Queen was observed at Court. Count Lesley happened to be King, the Emperour laid the Cloath, and the Empress filled out Wine, together with other old Customes.

Before Christmas there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occasion of a Marriage: For Count Serau, Governour of Gratz in Styria, married a natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth, King of Spain, which was observed with many noble Solemnities and Bravery. And the Nobility and Ladies were so sub­stantially splendid, that I was much surprised there­at.

This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun, who was Colonel of the Forces in Vienna, and who had one of the noblest Houses in the City; his Corps was brought out of Italy, and interred in the Dominican Church, where he formerly built a very fair Altar, there was raised for him a Castrum Do­loris, handsomely contrived and set round with white Wax Torches and Candles.

While I was in Vienna, the Empress Margarita was delivered of a Daughter, which was Christned by the Name of Maria, Antonina, Josepha, Benedicta, Rosalia, Petronella, but she lived not many months. When the Empress came abroad, she brought the Child to the Au­gustines Church, where Cardinal Carlo Caraffa, the Pope's Nuncio, received it, blessed it, and laid it upon the Altar.

During my stay here, the Election was in readiness for a King of Poland, after the voluntary resignation of that Crown by King Casimir; and Couriers often passed be­tween that Country and this. There were Competitors the Czar of Muscovy's Son, the Duke of Newburg, and the Prince of Lorrain. The French moved actively for the Duke of Newburg, the Emperour for the Prince of Lorrain, who was then at Vienna, in great favour with the Emperour, who greatly promoted his interest; a Person of great esteem, and who, if General Lubomirski had been living, who was his intimate Friend, in all pro­bability might have obtained the Crown; and thereupon it was conceived that he should have married the Emper­our's Sister. But the Poles made choice of one of their own Country, who was no Competitor, Michael Wisno­witski, lately deceased, who also married the Sister of the Emperour.

When I was here, there were many Ambassadours of Note, Don Balthasar de la Cueva, Marquiss of Malagon, and brother to the Viceroy of Naples, was Ambassadour for Spain. Cardinal Carlo Caraffa was the Pope's Nuncio. The Venetian Ambassadour Extraordinary, solicited for assistance for Candia, and he obtained the Regiment of Porcia under Marquiss Pio. Count Souches the younger, who was Governour of Leopoldstadt, and many noble and valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition. The Turks gave assurance of the Grand Signor's intention to maintain the Peace inviolably; and requested the Em­perour not to assist the Venetians or Transilvanians, nor to promote, but rather hinder, the Election of the Em­perour of Muscovy's Son to the Crown of Poland. The Bishop of Beziers, sent by the King of France to the E­lection of the King of Poland, came not hither, but pas­sed through Nurenburg, where I lodged at the same Inn: They were generally here against the French Interest, and so were a great part of the Polish Nobility. An Ambassa­dour came also from the Cham of Tartary, to confirm a Peace, and afford mutual Assistance upon occasion. Cha Gagi Aga was the Ambassadour, who brought a Present of the best Tartarian Horses, which are of high esteem for swiftness, hardiness, boldness in passing frozen Ri­vers, and taking and swimming over great Streams. He was dismissed with noble Presents of Plate. The Em­perour presented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver Bason and Ewer, and a curious Watch; and sent Presents unto the Chammine his Wife,; and also to his Sister and four Brothers. His Followers were stout men, of good stature, course Complexions, wearing long furr'd Vests and Calpack's, or furr'd Caps. Some of them had silver Rings with the same Signatures of the Turkish Seales. They took much Tobacco in very long Pipes. Their [Page 108] Tobacco is not in Rolls, but in Leaves, and dry. They went about wandring and gazing at most things, as Chur­ches, Houses, Shops: And took much delight to be in the Fair, where they would take much notice of small trifles. Yet these are the men that make such sad Incur­sions into the Eastern parts of Europe, and carrying away so many thousands, sell them to the Turks, and so repair the defect of People in Turky. And now after the Con­sumption of men in Constantinople, and the Country about by the Plague, are like to be active in that Trade, ho­ping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and De­predations.

There are divers Greeks who trade to Vienna, and ma­ny live in the Town, among which I met with three con­siderable persons. One a grave Abbot, who was forced from his Convent by the Turk, upon suspicion that he cor­responded with those of Candia. Another who went by the name of Constantinus Catacuzenos, and was of the Blood Royal of the Catacuzeni. The third was Jeremi­as a Greek Priest, who had travelled through Italy and France into England, and from thence through the Low-Countries and Germany to Vienna, and intended for Con­stantinople. He came into England to enquire after a young man who was in a Ship which was first taken by an Algerine, and afterwards by an English man of war in the Levant. He was very kindly used in England, and particu­larly at Cambridge. He did a great deal of honour at Vienna unto the English Nation, declaring that they were the most civil, generous, and learned people he had met with in all his Travels, and that he no where found so many who could speak or understand Greek, or who gave him so good satisfaction in all parts of Knowledge: And as a testimony of his respect and gratitude, requested me to enclose a Greek Letter unto Dr. Pierson, now Lord [Page 109] Bishop of Chester, and Dr. Barrow, now Master of Tri­nity Colledge in Cambridge.

Most men live here plentifully, there being abundance of all provision. They have great quantity of Corn, which upon Scarcity, by the help of the Danube, might be brought unto them from remoter parts. The Country affordeth such plenty of wine, that they send a conside­rable quantity up the River. They have also rich wines out of Hungary and Italy, and such variety, that there are more than thirty several sorts of Wine to be sold in Vien­na. They are not also without good Beer. Halstadt in Austria affordeth them Salt, where they make it by letting in water into the hollow parts of a Mountain, where it drinketh in the Salt of the Earth, and is afterwards let out and boiled up. This affordeth great profit to the Emperor, and therefore the Hungarian Salt is not permit­ted to be brought higher than Presburg. They have also plenty of Sheep and Oxen; but for Oxen at present they are also supplied from Hungary, nor only from the Coun­tries in the Emperours Dominions, but from the Turkish parts, by permission of the Grand Signor; and they are brought hither by the Eastern Company of Vienna. They eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is delicious, like that of Venison with us. They want not Hares, Rab­bets, Partridges, Pheasants. A Fowl called Hasenhendal, or Gallina Corylorum, is much esteemed by them, which made me the more wonder to meet with some odde dishes at their Tables; as Guiny-pigs, divers sorts of Snails, and Tortoises.

The Danube, and many Rivers which run into it, afford them plenty of Fish, extraordinary Carps, Trouts, Ten­ches, Pikes, Eels, several sorts of Lampries, and many Fishes finely coloured; the white Fish, Crevises very large; the best come out of the River Swechet, not far [Page 110] from Vienna. They have also that substantial large fish, called a Scheiden, or Silurus Gesneri, larger than Pike, Salmon, or any of our River Fishes; but the great Fishes called Hausons, or Husones, in Johnstonus, for largeness ex­ceed all others; some being twenty foot long. Some think this to be the same Fish which Aelian nameth An­tacetus, and speaketh largely of the fishing for them in Ister. I was at the fishing places for Hausons in Schut Island, between Presburg and Komara, for they come not usually higher, especially in shoals; and it is much that they come so high, for they are conceived to come out of the Euxine-sea, and so up the stream. They eat them both fresh and salted; they taste most like Sturgeon. It is a Cartilagineous Fish, consisting of gristles, and they have a hollow nervous chord all down the back, which being dried serveth for a whip. When they fish for them they blow a Horn or Trumpet, and know where they go by the moving of the water. From Venice they are supplied with Oysters, with salt Sturgeon, and some­times with red Herrings, and great variety of other Fishes pickled up: as also with Oranges, Limons, and other Fruits. Observing much freedom, musick, and jollity in the City. I wondered how they could content them­selves without Plays, for there were few while I was there, till the Players came hither out of Saxony, and a­cted here for a time. The Jesuites would sometimes en­tertain the Emperour and Empress with a Comedy at their Colledge; and I had once the favour to be at one when they were present.

But they have Dancing and Fencing often, and every Holy-day after dinner, the people flock to some Inns where there is Dancing in the inward Rooms, and Fencing and Playing of Prizes upon a Stage in the Yard; and at the Windows, or from the Galleries, behold the Fencers

[Page] [Page 111] playing at several Weapons; and commonly pass the rest of the day in delights and merry Company.

In Treason and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand of the Malefactor, and his Head immediately after. I saw a Woman beheaded sitting in a Chair, the Executioner striking off her Head with a Fore-blow, she behaved her self well, and was accompanied unto the Market place by the Confraternity of the Dead, who have a charitable care of such Persons, and are not of any Religious Order, but Lay men, among whom also in this place there are many Fraternities and Orders; as of the Holy Virgin, of the Holy Cross and others. Another person also executed after the same manner; as soon as his Head fell to the ground, while the Body was in the Chair, a man ran speedily with a Pot in his hand, and filling it with the Blood yet spouting out of his Neck, he presently drank it off, and ran away; and this he did as a Remedy against the Falling Sickness. I have read of some who have ap­proved the same Medicine; and heard of others who have done the like in Germany. And Gelsus takes notice, that in his time some Epileptical persons did drink the Blood of the Gladiatours. But many Physicians have, in all times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I stay after­wards so long as to know the effect thereof, as to the in­tended cure. But most men looked upon it as of great uncertainty: and of all men the Jews, who suffer no Blood to come into their Lips, must most dislike it.

At Presburg they have a strange way of Execution, still used at Metz, and some other places, by a Maid, or En­gine like a Maid finely dressed up with her hands before her. The Malefactor salutes her first, and then retireth. But at his second salute she openeth her hands and cuts his Heart in sunder.

Though the Winter was sharp, yet the advantage of Stoves, and lying between two Feather-beds, made it tolerable: For they use Stoves here as in other parts of Germany, where they lodge and eat in Stoves; and great Persons have Stoves in the Church, or such as look into the Church. There are Stoves also in the publick Schools where Lectures are read. And this way of ly­ing between two Feather-beds, with a neat laced sheet spread over, is more convenient in a cold Country, than most others they make use of. For in the common Inns in Germany they generally sleep upon Straw, and also in Hungary almost every where; and more Easterly upon the ground, spreading a Carpet or Saddle-cloath under them: and more Northerly they content themselves with the Skins of Beasts, Bears, Elks, or the like; upon which they sleep in the night. Those that sleep lowest are coolest in a Stove; those that lye upon Tables, Benches, or higher, are more exposed to the heat. The Citizens of Vienna are well attired, and use Furs very much. The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet, lined or faced there­with. The Place seemed to be healthful; but they speak much of the Colica Austriaca, as an Endemial and Local Disease, very hardly yielding unto good Medicines. They speak good German at the Court and in the City; but the Common and Country people seemed to speak grumb­lingly, and besides their accent, have divers words different from other parts.

They have a Custome upon St. Nicholas-day to put some small Gift into the Childrens shoes; among other things they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flower gilded and silvered over, yet scarce worth a penny. They sell Trochies or Tablets in the Markets, made of the pulpe of the Fruit of Hip-briar, made sharp with Spirit of Sul­phur, very refreshing. Some carry about them a Thunder­stone, [Page 113] as a defence against Thunder: and they rub their Chil­drens Gums with a Wolfs tooth instead of Coral.

When I was at Venice in the time of the Carnival, I ob­served many Recreations and Shews, as Rope-dancing, flying down the Rope, cutting off Bulls-necks with Swords, and many other. But at Vienna a notable trick which I saw there pleased me much: A man of a middle Stature laid down upon his back, and a heavy Anvil was placed upon his Breast, as much as two men could well lift, then two other men with great Hammers laid on, un­til they had given almost an hundred blows, and cut in sun­der a great Horshoe of iron, about half an inch thick.

Here is no Christian Religion publickly permitted but the Roman, and therefore those of the Protestant and Re­formed Religion are fain to resort unto Presburg, Forty miles off, for which they have some convenience by the Danube, and a Coach which goeth every day. In the time of Maximilian the Second, they were permitted the Ex­ercise of their Religion in the Church of the Holy Cross, in the City of Vienna. But afterwards were prohibited by Rodolphus the Second. The Emperour Matthias gave them permission to meet at Hernals, a little more than an English mile from Vienna; and gave leave to their Mini­sters to come into the City, and there to christen, marry, baptize, and visit the sick. From which time they encrea­sed very much, till Ferdinand the Second, returning from the Battel of Prague, banished their Minister from Vi­enna and Arnols; sent the Freyherr Jorger, to whom the Castle of Arnolds belonged, Prisoner unto Lintz; and never gave over till he had taken away their Priviledges and Freedom of meeting publickly in any part of lower Austria.

But here are no small number of Jews, who have a di­stinct Habitation assigned them over the Water. They have [Page 114] also a Street allowed them in the City for the day time, but they must all depart at night beyond the River into the Suburbs.

They are much distasted by the Citizens and Trades­men, and the Scholars agree but ill with them. While I was at Vienna there was a quarrel between them to an high degree. For the Scholars assaulted the Jews Town, beat, wounded, and threw divers of them into the Ri­ver. Divers Scholars were wounded, some killed, and also some Souldiers who were commanded out to com­pose the Fray: and the Jews Town was guarded many days by the Souldiers of the City. This begot such ill Blood and Complaints; that a good number of the Jews were to be banished at a certain day. The Jews, to in­gratiate with the Empress, then with Child, presented her with a noble Silver Cradle, but she would not receive it. And there was great danger of the general banishment of them when I left that City, which was afterwards effe­cted, they being severely prohibited from living, not on­ly at Vienna, but in any part of Austria, where there were formerly whole Villages of them, so as they were forced to betake themselves into the Dominions of the Turk, unto Venice, into Poland and Bohemia. They be­ing not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of Hungary subject to the Emperour, Styria, or Carinthia.

I must confess they seemed useful unto the place for rea­dy accommodation of any thing, either by sale or ex­change, but the people looked with an evil eye upon them, as taking away much of their Trade and Employ­ment. They also looked upon them as useless in war for defence of the place; and were not without some jealou­sie that they held correspondence with the Turks, and gave Intelligence of their Affairs unto them. Yet the Souldiery dealt much with them, and Captains for the suddain ha­biting, [Page 115] furnishing, and accommodating of their Compa­nies. And dining one day with a Commander at a Jews House, amongst other Discourse I asked the Jew con­cerning the ten Tribes, and where they were? He said they were far off in Asia, beyond a great Lake which was continually stormy, and scarce passable, but upon their Sab­bath-day, upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel.

I have seen their Circumcision at Rome, Padua, and o­ther parts. Their Physicians ordinarily profess great skill in Urines; and the common people resort unto them rather than unto Christians, and are so credulous, and have such an opinion of them, that they might be made to believe they have some old Receipts of King Solomon.

There are many Jews in Italy, yet they seem to me to be in greater numbers in Germany. In Amsterdam they are also grown very numerous. At Franckfurt they told me there were seven thousand of them, which seemed scarce credible. At Colen they are in great numbers: at Ham­burg not a few. But the greatest number surely is in Prague.

Though they be permitted in many Countries, yet di­vers Christian Princes and States have assigned them some mark in their Habits, to distinguish them. In Avignon their Hats are yellow. In Italy their Hats are covered o­ver with Taffate. In Germany they wear Ruffs and Gowns with great Capes. In Holland I observed no distinction. But the Jews there, most of them having come out of Portugal, there may be some suspicion of them from their Complexion.

Lastly, when I consider the old strength of Vienna, consisting in an old wall and a deep ditch, I cannot much wonder that Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, took this City. And I must ascribe it, under God, unto the singular valour and resolution of the Defendants, that [Page 116] Solyman the Magnificent, with two hundred thousand men, was not able to take it, and though he made large brea­ches, could never enter it, but lost some thousands at an Assault, and departed at last with the loss of a great part of his Army. But this place is now in a far better con­dition, strongly fortified, and able to resist the greatest Forces of Turky. The houses are cleared from the wall; and yet for better security, when I was there, Count Souches advised the Emperour to pull down part of the Suburbs upon the other side of the nearest branch of the Danube, lest the Turks might take advantage to play up­on the two Bastions on that side.

It would be a sad loss for Christendome if this place were in the hands of the Turk; and no man knows where he would rest. If he should begin with this place, and take it, the strong holds of Rab, Komara, and Leopold­stadt would want their support, and soon fall into his pos­session; and if he were Lord of Austria, a great part of Germany would lye bare unto him: and probably it would not be long before he visited Italy, into which Country he would then find other ways than by Palma nova.

TAking a farewel of the Imperial City of Vienna, I ordered my Journey for Prague in Bohemia, which is usually six days Journey by Coach in the Summer, and eight in the Winter. I went over the great Bridge of Vien­na, upon the large Stream of the Danube, passing by the Chappel of St. Bridget, of an eight-square Figure. This Bridge is a [Page 118] very great and massy work, supported by many high Trees, and Timber, and hath between two and three thou­sand Trees laid upon it cross, or side by side, from one side of the Bridge to the other, for the passage over it, af­ter the German manner of making Bridges. At Ratisbone there is a handsome Stone-bridge over the Danube, and between that place and Vienna, divers of Wood; but from Vienna to Belgrade I observed none but what were made with Boats.

Having passed the River, I entred into the Trans-Danubian Austria, or that part of Austria which lieth between the Danube and the River Theya, and came unto Corneuburg, a pretty Town, about which place the Em­perour often hunteth; it is near the Hill Bisneberg, which is opposite unto Kalenberg. The Swedes advanced far when they took this place in the last wars, and held it so well, that they were not easily forced out of it. From thence I came to Stockerau, near the mouth of the River Mida, where it runneth into the Danube. A place much noted for the death of St. Colman a Scotch Saint, highly honoured in these parts. From thence to Guntersdorff, so to Colnedorff or Koldorff, which although it be on the South of the River Theya, is accounted the first Village of Moravia, and then came unto Znaim.

In all this part of Austria, which extendeth a great length on the North-side of the Danube, conceived to have been anciently inhabited by the Marcomanni and Quadi, there are few or no Towns of antiquity, large­ness, or note; for the Romans made their Stations and Colonies upon the South-side of the Danube; but the Country is full of Villages, and populous. One of the chiefest Towns is Crembs, which some call Cremona Au­striae, which I saw as I came down the Danube. A great part of this Country was notably harrassed and plunder­ed [Page 119] by the Swedes. The Soyl is light, and easie to be ploughed.

Znaim is a handsome place, with many painted Houses in it, and accounted the fourth chief Town in Mahren, or Moravia; Olmütz, Brün, and Iglaw being the other three, famous for the death of the Emperour Sigis­mund. It is seated by the River Theya, which divideth Moravia from Austria, and running at last into the River Mark, affordeth accommodation of passage into the Da­nube.

From thence we passed by Ulverskirken, Paulitz, and Moravian Budweisse to Zimmaw, and by Byrnitz came to Igla, or Iglau, upon the River Igla, which at last run­neth into the great River Marck, a very pleasant place, seated upon a Hill, on the Frontiers of Bohemia. It is well fortified à la moderna, upon one side, and hath one of the largest Piazza's that I have seen.

Moravia, is a pleasant and fruitful Country affording plenty of necessaries for life; the people are plain-dealing, stout, and make good Souldiers. It is commodiously furnished with Rivers, the greatest whereof is the Mora or Marck, which arising in the Northern part thereof, runneth quite through the Country, and entreth the Do­naw not far from Presburg. The other considerable Streams are the Theya or Thaisa, the Swarta, the Schwitta, which run into the Marck. In the last Turkish wars the Tartars having passed the Wag in Hungaria, made incursi­ons into Moravia, and carried away some thousands of the Inhabitants.

Leaving Igla, we soon came into Bohemia, first coming into Stecken, then to Teutchin Broda by the River Sac­zua, formerly a strong place, taken by Zisca the famous Bohemian General, who then forced the Emperour Sigis­mund to fly out of Bohemia by the way of Igla. From [Page 120] thence we came to Heberne, and so to Janikaw: At this place, upon the 24th of February, 1643. was fought that memorable Battel between the Swedes, commanded by Leonard Torstenson, and the Imperialists under Count Hatzfield, Goetz, and other Commanders. The Imperi­alists had the better at first; but falling upon the Enemies Baggage, and being too greedy of Booty, they were de­feated, three thousand slain, four thousand taken prison­ners, with their General Hatzfield, and six or seven Colo­nels. The success hereof gave the Swedes advantage to proceed further, and into Silesia and Austria. In this Town meeting with a Gentleman who came from Schaclitz, which is not far from the Risgeburg, or Mountain of Gy­ants, about the Head of the River Elbe, I enquired of him concerning the spirit Ribensal, which is said to infest that Country, but he could say nothing therein of his own knowledge; and though he was confident that there was such a Spirit, yet he confessed that for twelve years it had done no hurt. In Hills, Mountains, and places of Mines such reports are ordinary. It is reported that a Spirit haunts the Silver Mines of Brunswick: And ano­ther to be in the Tinn Mine of Slackenwalde in this Coun­try of Bohemia, and to walk in the shape of a Monk, who strikes the Miners, sings and plays on the Bag-pipes, and doth many such Tricks. And Agricola in the latter end of his Sixth Book Dere Metallica, gives this for one reason why Mines, or passages in Mines, are given over.

From Janikaw I travelled to Czaslaw, a good Town, and the chiefest in the Czaslawer Circle: In this place they say that Zisca was buried, that famous Bohemian Ge­neral; he lost one Eye by an Arrow, and was at length blind of both, yet gave not over the war, and proved successful in it. He wished his Friends to make a Drum of his Skin, which should serve to fright away their E­nemies. [Page 121] And though he cared not for any Sepulchral Monument, yet he had one in this place.

From Czaslaw we came to Guttenberg, or Cottenberg, about eight Bohemian miles from Prague, every mile be­ing five or six English miles. A large Town, and much frequented, not far from the River Albis or Elbe, of e­specal note for the Silver Mines about it: The Hills near it are not high, and consequently the Mines are not so deep as those of Hungary, and some others in Germa­ny; yet some are above seventy or eighty Fathoms. They have wrought at these Mines seven hundred years, and there are about thirty of them. I went down into that which was first digged, but afterwards left for a long time, but they work there now again, it is called the Cot­na, or Auf der Cotten, upon the Cotten, or Coat-hill; and as the Story goeth, a Monk walking over this Hill found a kind of a Silver Tree sticking to his Garment, which was the occasion that they afterwards digged and built these Mines, and the place retains the name of Cotten­berg.

The Mine into which I descended near the Town, is but nineteen Fathoms deep; the chief Vein of the Ore runneth South, and is about a foot in breadth: the Ore holdeth or containeth in it Silver and Copper, so that out of an hundred pound weight of Ore, they ordinarily get an Ounce of Silver, and eight, nine, or ten ounces or more of Copper, even to pounds, but it is not well known, for the Copper-works are the Emperours. The Undertakers get out what Silver they can, and afterwards sell the Ore unto the Emperours Officers; but some Ore is sorich as to contain eight or nine ounces of Silver. A blew Earth which they meet with in digging, affords the best hopes of Ore. Two men lately perished in this Mine, having made a fire in it, being either choaked with the smoak, or, [Page 122] as they thought, by the poysonous exhalations forced out of the Minerals by the fire. I have read that Libussa the Princess, and reputed Sorceress of Bohemia, foretold many things concerning these Mines; but certain it is, that for the advantage and profit these bring, the Town hath suffered much in many wars. The Emperour Sigis­mund made haste out of it upon the approach of Zisca, and seeing he could not hold it, burnt the Town; but it was soon rebuilt and possessed by Zisca, whose party called it the Purse of Antichrist.

Leaving Cottenburg, I came to Colline and to Bohemi­an Broda, so named to distinguish it from Dutch or Teu­tonick Broda before mentioned, a considerable good Town, and from thence came to Prag, or Prague, the Capital and Royal City of the Kingdom of Bohemia. The Walls of this City seem to enclose the greatest Citcuit of ground of any I have seen in Germany, but the Hills and void spaces within it take up a large Tract, and therein it is like the City of Lyon in France; it is seated upon the River Muldau, by the Bohemians named Ultaue, a large rapid River, arising in the South part of Bohemia, and before at arriveth at Prague, receiveth the River Sarsua and the Watta into it; and Northward of Prague the River Egra, and joyneth with the Elbe.

This great place consisteth of three Towns, named the Old, the New, and the Kleine Seitten, or lesser Town. The old Town lieth upon the East of the River Muldau, is very populous, full of Buildings, private and pub­lick. Very considerable in this part is also the Universi­ty, wherein are great numbers of Students and Scholars, there being but one University in Bohemia; many persons also resorting thither from other Countries. It is scarce credible what is reported of the number of Scholars in Prague in former Ages, as hath been delivered by divers [Page 123] Authors. And Lewis du May, Counsellor unto the Duke of Wittenburg, affirmeth, That there are at present scarce so many Students in all Germany, as there were at Prague in the year 1409. when they reckoned above Forty thousand under the Rectorship of John Hus. Charles the Fourth, Emperour, and King of Bohemia, founded the University of Prague, giving equal priviledges to the Bohemians, Polanders, and Germans: and when he would re­trench his favours towards Strangers, there went out of the Town in a weeks time twenty four thousand Scholars, and a little after, sixteen thousand, whereby we may judge there were more Scholars in Prague than other persons in some great Cities. There are also in this old Town di­vers Colledges and Cloysters. The Jesuites have a fair, handsome Colledge, near unto the Bridge, but the Build­ings of the old Town are inferiour to those of the lesser Town.

The new Town is large, and together with the River, encompasseth the old, and is divided from it by a large Trench or Ditch, in o which they can let in the River. The Irish have a Cloyster of Franciscans near unto an old Tower in the Wall of the old Town. The Jesuites have also be­gun a large Cloyster, which, if finished according to its beginning and design, will be very spacious and noble. They are now making Bastions about the Town at one end thereof; there is also a Citadel, but not finished, at Wisse­raht, or Wissegrade, formerly the Seat of the Princes of Bohemia, and also of the famous Princess Libussa, the Daughter of Crocus, and Wife unto Primislaus.

The Kleine Seitten, or lesser Prague, far exceedeth the other for pleasantness and beauty of Buildings and fair Palaces. This part lieth Westward of the River Mul­daw, which between this and the old Town, is passable by a strong Stone-bridge, consisting of sixteen great Arches, [Page 124] being about Seventeen hundred foot long, and Thirty five foot broad, and two open Gates under two high Towers of Stone at each end. A great part of this Town lieth high, and upon the Hill standeth Hratschin, or Upper Prague, and a Summer House of the Emperours, besides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperours, as King of Bohemia; and by it a fair Cathedral Church dedicated to St. Veit, first built by St. Wenceslaus, Duke of Bohemia, 923. from whence the Town and River is best viewed. In this Church are divers old Monuments for great Per­sons; as for Pogiebrachius a Bohemian King, Wenceslaus, Rodolphus the Second, Charles the Fourth, Ladislaus, Maximilian the Second, and other Arch-Dukes and Em­perours. There are also many Houses of the Nobility in this part of the City. The Palace and Garden of Colare­do is exceeding neat, though small. But I was most plea­sed with the Palace of Count Wallensteyn, Duke of Fried­land, General unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Second, who being suspected to Usurp that Kingdom, was after­wards killed at Egra. This Palace was built upon the Ruins of an hundred Houses, purposely plucked down to make room for it; wherein the Hall is large, the Gar­den handsome; upon one side whereof there is a place to manage Horses, and near unto it a Fish-pond: in ano­ther part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees in it, after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at Genoa, which is eighty paces long, and eighteen broad. The Stable is large, and worth the seeing, wherein there is a Marble Pillar between each Horse, and for every Horse there is placed in a nich of the Wall a Rack of Steel, and Manger of Marble, and over his Head hangeth a Picture of the Horse, as big as the Life, with his Name under it. Among the rest, I observed that a Bay-horse had for his Name Monte d'Oro, a Mare, Bella donna, ano­ther [Page 125] Espagnoletta, and his most beloved Horse was named Mas Querido.

Some have thought that the best high German is spoken in this part of Prague; and there living so many of the Nobility and great Persons, it is not to be wondred at, that their Language is better than ordinary. But the common Language of Bohemia is a Dialect of the Sclavoni­an, though very many speak also High dutch, as we found in all our passage through that Country. Koningsmark being with his Forces on the Frontiers of Bohemia, a discontented Colonel of the Imperialists came unto him, making it probable that he might surprize Hratschin, and the lesser side of Prague, which he suddainly attempted, and so successfully, that he surprized many Officers, and old Colaredo in his Bed, getting so great a Booty, that he could scarce carry it away.

A part of Prague is inhabited by Jews, and called the Jews Town; there are no small number of them, and ma­ny rich, as trading in all Commodities, and have good skill in Jewels, and several sorts of Stones digged out of the Mines in Bohemia: I bought some Bohemian Topazes of them, neatly cut and well-figured, and some which were very large and clear, were at the rate of seven or eight Dollars. During my stay here, I had a great desire to have saluted Johannes Marcus-Marci, a famous Physici­an and Philosopher of Prague, and also to have induced him to a Correspondence with the Royal Society, but I understood that he had left this World, to the great grief of Learned Men in these and other parts.

Many here do speak still of John Hus and Jerome of Prague, and I have seen Silver Medals of them. They were surely very notable men; and I shall only set down what Aeneas Sylvius, or Pope Pius the Second said of them. Jo­hannes aetate major & authoritate, doctrinâ & facundiâ su­perior [Page 126] Hieronymus, pertulerunt ambo constanti animo necem, & quasi ad Epulum invitati ad incendium properarunt, nul­lam emittentes vocem quae miseri animi posset ferre indicium: ubi ardere ceperunt, hymnum cecinere quem vix flamma & fragor ignis intercipere potuit, nemo Philosophorum tam forti animo mortem pertulisse traditur quam isti incendium. In Hist. Bohemica. John was or greater years and autho­rity, Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning: both of them endured their Death with great constancy, and went unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet: when they began to burn, they sung an Hymn, which the flame and fire could scarce intercept. None of the old Philosophers endured their death with such a courageous mind as these the fire.

The same Author compareth Prague unto the City of Florence in Tuscany, wherefore having seen both places, I cannot omit to say something. I had a view of the Ci­ty of Florence from the top of the Domo, or Cathedral, and of Prague from the Church of St. Veit, upon the Hill in the lesser Town: Prague seemed to my eye to contain a far greater Circuit than Florence; it seemed also more populous, and to exceed it very much in the number of People, the Streets larger, and the Windows of Palaces and fair Houses being of Glass, looked not so tatterdly as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence. The River Arno, which runs through Florence, is not to be compa­red with the Muldau at Prague, having run about an hun­dred miles from its Head. The large, massy, long Stone-Bridge exceedeth any of, if not all, the four Bridges of Flo­rence. The Emperours Palace also upon the Hill is very stately: But as for the well-paved Streets of Florence, the Domo or Cathedral with black and white Marble, with a Cupola, second only to that of St. Peters of Rome, for the incomparable Chappel of St. Laurence, and the Dukes [Page 127] Gallery and Rarities, I must confess I saw not any thing in Prague which answered them. At Weissenberg, or the white Hill near Prague, that deciding Battel was fought Novemb. 8. 1620. between Frederick Prince Palatine of the Rhine, elected King of Bohemia, and the Forces of the Emperour Ferdinand the Second, which gave such a deep blow unto the Protestant Party, wherein so many of Frederick's Forces were slain and drowned in the River in their slight, wherein also that famous Commander Pa­penheim was found lying among the dead, who notwith­standing died not of his wounds, but was reserved to end his days with the King of Sweden in the memorable Battel of Lutzen.

From Prague I designed to pass by water down the Muldaw, which uniteth with the Elbe about Melnick, and so down the Elbe unto Hamburg. But the Winter advan­cing, and the Weather proving cold, the Boats did not go as in Summer, and therefore I took my Journey by Land, and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right hand, I passed the first day to Zagethal, the next to We­luerne, and so to Budin and Labasitz upon the Elbe. Ha­ving passed over the Egra, a considerable River, arising not far from the City of Egra, and at last running into the Elbe; the next day by the Castle of Kriegstein, or Warrestone, seated upon a high steep Rock, I came to Ausig, a small City not far from the Elbe, having little remarkable in it, like many other small Cities of Bohemia, and so forward to Nolndorff, where we lodged upon Mount Kninsberg, the day after we entred into Misnia, passing by Peterswald, and Hellendorff the first Village in Misnia, and Kisibel, where are Iron Mines about eigh­teen Fathoms deep, and Iron works.

We now understood that Bohemia was a larger Country than we expected; it lieth round, and some say it is three [Page 128] days postage over; others that the Diameter extendeth two hundred miles. From Igla upon the Confines unto Hellendorff, it took me nine days Journey in November by Coach, not reckoning the time I staid at Prague. In many places there are very ill Passages, and so rudely mended with great Trees, laid side by side, that they are often very troublesome to pass.

We travelled afterwards towards Dresden, in a fruitful Country, wherein were many Deer in most parts of the way, in sight of the Castle of Pilnitz, a strong place, and seated high. I could not but cast an eye on the Rocks behind us in the Forest of Bohemia, which looked like the Ruines of a Wall which formerly enclosed Bohemia, which Country is described with a Forest or Woods round about it. But I confess I did not really perceive that there was such a Wood round about it as is common­ly set forth in Mapps; only both within, and also in many parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which are conceived to have been part of the Hercinian Forest.

The Bohemians are a strong, stout, and hardy People, make good Souldiers, and have made great wars both at home and abroad; and Histories are full of their warlike Exploits. The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra, a strong City, accounted the Second of Bohemia. The Country affordeth also lusty and strong Horses. The common sort of People are boysterous, rough, and quarrel­some, especially in drink, whereto they are too much addicted. The Nobility and Gentry are civil and kind unto Strangers. There are many great Families of the Nobility, among which that of Rosenberg and Popel is an­cient, and of high esteem. Since the unhappy accepting of the Crown by Frederick Count Palatine, and the ill success upon it, there hath been a great alteration in this Country, both as to People and their Manners; for there­upon [Page 129] many thousands left the Kingdom, and many who re­mained, turned their Religion. And the Emperours have used the like severity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions.

The next considerable place we came unto was Dres­den in Misnia, as well worth the seeing, as almost any Town in Germany. Dresden is the Seat and Residence of the Elector of Saxony, seated upon the River Elbe, over which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen Arches. The City is very well fortified after the Mo­dern way, the Bastions Revestues, and in each Bastion a Cavallier: It hath also a large Trench or Ditch about it, in some places double; and the River Elbe addeth unto its strength. The Walls are very strong: and they say, that when the first Stone was laid to build them, there was placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded, a Book of the Laws, and another of Coyns, and three Glasses filled with Wine. It hath also three Gates. The places most worth the seeing are these: The Italian Garden in the Suburbs; the Hunters House in the old Town beyond the River; the Electors Palace; his House for wild Beasts; his Stable­house and Arsenal, of which I shall set down some things observable in their kind. In the Electors Palace, the Hall is very large, and handsomely painted with Cities, Gy­ants, and the Habits of several Nations, and set out with seven large branched Candlesticks: But that which af­fordeth the greatest delight is his Kunstkammer, Art-Chamber, or Collection of Rarities, both of Art and Na­ture. In the first Partition are to be seen all manner of well-made Instruments belonging to most Trades, as Joyners, Turners, Barbers, Smiths, Chirurgeons, and o­ther Artificers: Instruments to force open Doors, Chests, &c. In the other Chambers these and the like are obser­vable.

A Tube-glass four Ells long. A large blew Turkish-glass. Variety of Coral and artificial Works of it. Fowls made out of Mother of Pearl. Drinking Cups in the shape of Dragons, Elephants, &c. Castles of Gold and Mother of Pearl. Many Fowls and Cups made out of Nautili, and other Shells, and out of Oestrich-eggs. A fine Oestrich made out of its Egg, with the Feathers of Gold. A Cup made out of the Ball taken our of an Oxes Stomach, richly set, about a foot long. A Stone as big as my fist, like a Bezoar-stone, taken out of a Horse. A Purse made out of the Linum Incombustibile. Silver Ore from the Mines of Freiberg, almost pure, in strings and shoots. A Natural Cross of Silver Ore. One hundred and twenty one Heads carved on the outside of a Cherry-stone. A Religious Man or Frier of Japan carved in Box. A Chrystal Cabinet, sold by Oliver Cromwell, wherein is kept a Ring which hath Stones in it in the shape of a Castle. His Majesty King Charles the Second on Horsback, carved out of Iron. A Head of King Charles the First. A Glass Organ, Topazes unpolished, ten Inches in Diameter. A Cup out of a To­paze. Emeralds an inch in Diameter, as they grow in the Rock, resembling the Vitriolum Nativum, as I saw it in Paradise-hill by Schemnitz in Hungary. Stones named Thunder stones, smelling of Fire. Rocks made out of all sorts of Ore, and the names of the places written upon them from whence they were digged.

The Figures of Fishes in Stones out of Mansfield; the Stones are dark-coloured, but the Fishes of a Gold or Copper colour. All sorts of Stones which are to be found about Saxony and Misnia polished. Two large pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the Mine. A Cabinet of all sorts of Apothecaries Instruments and chief Druggs. A Hart with a Cabinet made in his side, containing all Me­dicines taken from a Hart. A white Hart as big as the [Page 131] Life, made out of the shavings and filings of Harts horn, and looking like Plaister. Figures printed in Trees. A Spur in part of a Tree. Horns in Trees.

A Chamber of all manner of Mathematical Instruments and Charts. A good Library of Mathematical Books An Unicorns-horn, which they will have to be of a Land U­nicorn, being neither wreathed nor hollow. A Dart of Unicorns-horn. Among the Pictures in the same Cham­bers these seemed remarkable: A Picture by Colier, of the Siege of Jerusalem, with great number of Figures, and highly esteemed. Four Heads of the Elements made out of the Creatures which belong to them in Caricatura. A painting of Merchants Letters stuck behind green Tape. A Storm by Rubens. Two Nuns by Lucas van Leyden. A Picture of Dr. Luther in the Cloyster, in his Gown, and after his Death. There is also great variety of excellent Clockwork, and an attempt for a perpetual motion by a rowling bullet. A Cuckow singeth by Clockwork, a Hors­man rideth, a Ship saileth, an old Woman walketh, a Cen­taur runneth and shooteth, a Crab creepeth upon a Table so well as to amaze and delight; but among all, the Crab seems to be most naturally imitated.

In the Stable house, besides the extraordinary noble Stable of Horses, wherein every Horse eats out of a Rack of Iron, and Manger of Copper; and on a Pillar by him his Comb, Bridle and Saddle, and other Necessaries, hang; besides a handsome Window with a Curtain before him. There are observable a very fair Fountain and pond set a­bout with handsome Ballisters, where the Horses are wa­tered. A long walk arched and painted with Horses; over which is a Gallery with the Pictures of all the Dukes and Electors of Saxony, both in their Military and Electoral Habits. Two Beds of Marble. Drinking Cups which seem not great, yet so contrived as to hold divers quarts. [Page 132] A Spring which causeth a Horseman in Silver to come ri­ding in, bringing a Cup of Wine in his hand. A pair of noble Pistols with all the Stories of the New and Old Te­stament upon them. A Glass Gun. A Gun which shoots off Forty times without charging again. A Piece which sheweth the manner of the first invention of striking Fire in Guns. A Lock without a cock.

A Chamber of rich Sleds for Horses, made use of in Jollity and pompous Courses upon the Snow. A white Bears skin stuffed. Tigers and Lyons Skins. A Cassowares Skin. Good Armour for Men and Horses. Many sorts of Indian Mony, Duntans, and other sorts. A Picture of Laplanders and their Customs. A Lapland Drum with Figures to conjure by. A Chamber of all Hunting Arms and Necessaries.

The Armamentarium-Armory or Arsenal, is a long, square Building, wherein are about Four hundred brass Pieces of Ordinance, great number of Muskets and Armour in the Upper Room. Silver Coats of Male. Pieces of Ordi­nance to be charged behind. Retorts and Alembicks in the shape of Granados. The Steeple of the chief Church was lately burnt by Lightning, and the Canon melted which were upon it.

In the Hunting-house, in the old Town, are fifteen Bears very well provided for and looked unto. They have Fountains and Ponds to wash themselves in, wherein they much delight: And near to the Pond are high ragged Posts or Trees set up for the Bears to climb up, and Scaffolds made at the top to sun and dry themselves; where they will also sleep, and come and go as the Keeper calls them. The Horn Gallery is also remarkable in this place, out of which there are three Chambers; one painted with seve­ral sorts of Hunting; another with all sorts of Fowl; and a third with great variety of Beasts.

In the House for wild Beasts I took notice of a Marian, which is a four-footed Beast, that hangeth upon Trees by the Tail. Also a wild or Mountain-Cat of a large size. Five young Bears. Five old black Bears. A white Bear very large; the feet, the head, and the neck are longer than those of the black, but not so thick. Two Lyons. Ten Luekses; very fine Beasts, in bigness, colour, and shape between a Tiger and a wild Cat; the tips of their Ears and Tails are black, their Eyes lively, their Skin Lyon coloured, and spotted, especially about their Eyes.

The Italian Garden and Summer-house in the Suburbs is very noble, wherein are two Obelisks, two gallant Fountains, a Theatre and good Landskips. This Garden and Summer house were built by two of the Prince Ele­ctour's Eunuchs, and afterwards sold unto the Prince for Six and twenty thousand Dollars.

Dresden is but a late City, and was formerly a Village. The Churfurst, or Elector, was not in the Town; but the Chur-prince his Son was there: A Person rather of low than middle Stature, his Hair long and yellow, his Face ruddy, his Body well set and active, and he is very well beloved. The present Elector of Saxony is John George the Second, Grand Marshal of the Empire, a great and powerful Prince, who keeps a Royal Court and Attendance, having his Guards and Officers after the manner of Kings. His Dominions lye in Misnia, Thuringia Voytland, and part of Lusatia. His Revenues are large, from Impositi­ons upon Commodities. His Profits great, from the Tax upon Beer, which ariseth to no small sum, especially in Wittenberg, Torga, and Leipsick. And his Silver Mines are considerable. And the Funeral of the last Electour Joannes Georgius the First, was very magnificent 1657. at which there were twenty four Horses of State covered with black, and the Electoral Escutcheon embroydered [Page 134] thereon, and every one led by two Gentlemen, and three thousand five hundred persons in mourning.

Dr. Luthers Holiday was kept when I was there. The chief Church is very fair: They preach every morning at seven a Clock. The Lutheran women mourn in white, as others do in Black: and the woman of the House doth ordinarily say Grace instead of the man. The best High­dutch is spoken in this place, and other parts of Misnia, which is a very pleasant fruitful Country, and full of good Towns and Villages.

Leaving this noble place, I took not the nearest Road, but turned out of the way unto Freiberg, a place noted for Silver Mines; whereof I had read something in A­gricola, and heard very much in these parts. About an English mile or two from Freiberg, there are many remar­kable Mines. I took notice of three of them: One called Auff den hohen berg, or upon the high Hill, which is the deepest in these parts, as being seventy seven of their Fathoms deep; each of their Fathoms contains twelve of their Ells, and three of their Ells makes one of our Fa­thoms. So that the depth of this Mine exceedeth any of those wherein I was in Hungary. There is another Mine called Himmelfurst, or the Prince of Heaven, where­in not long since there was Ore found so rich, as in an hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty Marks of Silver, or sixty five pounds in the hundred, but there was not much of it: And where the Veyns are richest, they are observed to be thinest, about two sin­gers broad; but the ordinary Ore is but poor, holding an ounce, or an ounce and a half, in an hundred pounds weight; and if it holdeth but half an ounce they work it. Nor is this much to be wondered at, for in the vast rich Mines of Peru and Chili, they will work the Silver Ore which containeth four or five ounces in a hundred pound [Page 135] weight, and ten or twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of the common Ore of that rich Mountain of Potosi, out of which Hill alone, if we believe Albero Alonso Barba, Cu­rate of the Parish of St. Bernard in that City, there hath been more Silver taken than would cover all Misnia o­ver and over: For thus he saith, Potosi hath already yielded between four and five hundred Millions of pieces of Eight. A quantity sufficient to make such another Hill of Silver: It is hard to form a conception equal unto so exorbitant a heap of Riches; but the better to help our imagination herein, know, that if the Ground were cove­red with so many pieces of Eight, laid as close to one another as is possible, they would take up the space of six­ty Leagues square.

Here at Freiberg they have many ways to open the Ore whereby it may be melted; as by Lead and a sort of Sil­ver Ore which holds Lead in it. They have also Sulphur Ore found here, which after it is burned, doth help much towards the fusion of Metals: And besides these, Slich, or pounded and washed Ore; and Slacken, which is the Dross or Cake, or Skum taken out of the Vortiegel, or Pan which receiveth the melted Minerals let out at the bottom of the melting Furnace. Their Treibshearth, or driving Furnace, where the Litharge is driven off, agreeth better with the Figure of it in Agricola, than those of Hungary; some of the Litharge is green: Their Buck­work and their Engines which pound the Ore, the Coal, and Clay, are also very neat. Much of their Ore is washed, especially the poorest, and that which is mixed with stones, quarts, or sparrs.

This is peculiar in their working, that they burn the pounded and washed Ore in the Roasthearth, before they melt it in the Smeltzoven, or melting Furnace.

At these Mines of Hungary where I was, they used not the Virgula divina, or forked Hazel, to find out Silver Ore, or hidden Treasure in the Earth; and I should little depend thereon: but here they have an esteem of it. And I observed the use thereof, and the manner how they did it. But I shall omit the Description of it, because it is set down in divers Books, and it cannot be so well de­scribed as shown to the Eye.

I saw also another Mine, called Auff der Halsbrucker, about eighty of our Fathoms deep, and much worked: They have divers sorts of Ore; but they contain either Silver and Copper, Silver and Lead, or all three; but they work them only for Silver. They have divers damps in these Mines, where it is deep. The Mines are cold where the outward Air comes in; but where not, warm. The greatest trouble they have is by dust, which spoileth their Lungs and Stomachs, and frets their Skins. But they are not so much troubled with water; and have ve­ry good Engins to draw the water out.

The Sulphur, or Brimstone Ore which is found here, is also rich; it is hard and stony, as other Ores are: that which hath red spots is accounted the best. They use a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimstone from the Ore; some whereof yieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of an hundred weight of Ore, which as it melteth runneth out of the Furnace into water, or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire, are condensed into Brimstone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it; this is once again melted and purified. Some of the Brimstone Ore containeth Silver, some Copper, and some both in a small proportion.

After the Sulphur is melted from the Ore, the remain­der serveth for two uses; that is, either for the melting of Silver, or for the making of Vitriol: To the former only

[Page] [Page 137] thus; A proportion is cast into the melting Furnace of the Silver, to this end, to use the Miners expression, to make the Silver which is hard, fluid.

The other use, and which is more considerable, is for the making of Vitriol, or Copperose in this manner: They take the Ore out of which the Brimstone hath been already melted, and burn it once again, or let it still burn in the open Air; then putting it into a large Fatt, they pour water upon it, so as to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol; this Water is afterwards boyled to a sufficient height, and let out into the Coolers, where sticks are set in it, as in the making of Sugar Candy: The purest Chrystallized Vitriol sticks unto the wood, the rest to the sides and bot­tom. Thus the Sulphur Ore, after the Sulphur is taken out of it, still worketh upon the Silver Ore, and openeth the Body of it in the Fire; but when this Ore is also de­prived of its Vitriol, it worketh no more upon Me­tals.

Friberg is a round well-walled City; hath handsome Streets, a Piazza, the Elector's Castle, and five Gates. the Church of St. Peter is fair, where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried, and have fair Monu­ments; especially Duke Mauritius, Elector of Saxony, whose Monument in black Marble is raised three piles high, adorned with many fair Statua's in Alabaster and white Marble, and esteemed one of the noblest, if not the best, in Germany. And when this Town was surrendred unto Holck and Gallas, Octob. 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to save the Monuments of his Prede­cessours from being ransacked and defaced, it being the fashion of divers German Princes to be buried in their Robes, with their Ensigns of Honour, Rings, Jewels, and the like, which would have been booty, and probably have run the same fortune as the Cloister of Haibron, within [Page 138] twelve English miles of Nurenberg, where some of the Marquisses of Onspach, who are of the Electoral House of Brandenburg, lye entombed, where Tillie's Souldiers brake open the Vault, and robbed the dead Corpses of the Marquisses, George Frederick, and Joachim Ernest, of the Jewels, Rings, and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed.

There are some Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City, by which there are passages into the Mines. This place was formerly streightly besieged by the Em­perour Adolphus, for the space of a year and a month, and at last betrayed by a Fugitive, who let in a party of the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Pas­sage near St. Donats Gate, and upon the continual Batte­ries made at the Town, and concussion of the Earth a­bout it, the Earth sunk down in many places, and swal­lowed great numbers of the Emperours Army.

These Mines afford great benefit unto the City, and also unto the Elector; They are said to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines discovered since; as at Schneeberg, at Anneberg, and at Joachims Dale, 1526.

Having passed some time at Friberg, I ordered my Journey for Leipsick, and travelling by Waltheim and Col­dick, came unto it.

Leipsick is seated upon the River Elster, which arising in Vortland, or Terra Advocatorum, passeth by it, and afterwards runneth into the River Sala. It is a rich and great trading City; hath three Marts in the year, and great resort unto it from many parts: It is well-built, and divers Houses are seven stories high. The Castle is strictly guarded, and hath in it a strong white Town: But the Works about the Town are not very considerable, al­though they might be made strong.

The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned, and hath the name to be the fairest within side of any Lutheran Church in Germany; they have also a remarkable Burial­place or Godtsaker, walled about, and cloystered near the Wall, wherein the better sort are buried, as the rest in the middle and open part. Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place which I saw at Pisa in Tuscany, called Il campo Santo, because the Earth which the Em­perour Frederick Barbarossa brought from the Holy Land, for the Ballast of his Ships, was laid upon that Ground.

Leipsick is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it in the last Swedish wars; one between Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, and Count Tilly, General of the Imperialists, 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory. Tilly was wounded, fled, and lived not long after. Another some years after in the same place, wherein Leonard Torstenson the Swede, overcame Arch­duke Leopoldus Gulielmus, and Octavio Piccolomini, Gene­rals of the Imperial Army. And about a mile and a half from hence, at Lutzen, another great Battel was fought, 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Ar­my, commanded by Albert Wallensteyn Duke of Friedland, wherein the Swedes obtained the Victory, but the King of Sweden was slain; and on the Imperial side that famous Commander, Godfrey Count of Pappenheim.

There is also an University at Leipsick, first occasioned by the German Scholars of Prague, who in the troubles of the Hussites came hither, to the number of Two thou­sand in one day; and is still one of the Three Universities in the Elector's Dominions; the other being Jena by the River Sala, and Wittenberg upon the Elbe. In this Uni­versity they are much addicted to the study of the Law, but there are also Learned men in other Faculties.

The Magistrates of Leipsick are also considerable. Der herr von Adlershelme was the Burgomaster, a courteous Learned Person, and great Virtuoso, who had collected and observed many things: He hath had five fair Daugh­ters brought up in all commendable ways of working, Drawing, Painting, Inlaying with Flowers, with Mother of Pearl, Stones, and other pretty Works. And they speak divers Languages, which they learned at a School in Holland: So that his House hath a great deal of excel­lent Furniture of his Childrens work, and is one of the most considerable Curiosities to be seen in Leipsick. His Summer-house is handsome, painted both within and with­out: And in the Water about, are Muscovy Ducks, Indian Geese, and divers rare Fowls. In his Chamber of Rari­ties there are many things considerable: But I have seen divers of them in other places, and lately set down some Varieties of the Elector of Saxony, I shall mention but a few.

An Elephants Head with the dentes molares in it. An Animal like an Armadillo, but the Scales are much larger, and the Tail broader. Very large flying Fishes. A Sea­horse. Bread of Mount Libanus. A Cedar-branch with the Fruit upon it. Large Granates as they grow in the Mine. A Sirens hand. A Chameleon made out of a Fish. A piece of Iron, which seemeth to be the head of a Spear, found in the Tooth of an Elephant, the Tooth being grown about it. The Isle of Jerscy drawn by our King. A piece of Wood with the Blood of King Charles the First upon it. A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it. Much Japan painting, wherein their manner of hunting and work­ing may be observed. A Picture of our Saviour, the Hatches of which are writing, or written, and contain the story of his Passion. Bevers taken in the River Elbe. A Picture of the murther of the Innocents, done by Albert [Page 141] Durer. Pictures of divers strange Fowls. A Greenland Boat. The Skins of white Bears, Tigres, Hilves, and other Beasts. And I must not omit the Garter of an Eng­lish Bride, with the story of it; of the Fashion in England for the Bridemen to take it off, and wear it in their Hat, which seemed so strange to the Germans, that I was obli­ged to confirm it to them, by assuring them that I had di­vers times wore such a Garter my self.

Leaving this busie and trading City of Leipsick, I di­rected my Journey unto Magdeburg, and travelled through a plain Country, between the River Sala and the Elbe, by Landsberg, nigh to Petersdorff, where there is a small Hill which overlooks all the Country, so to Kihten, the Resi­dence of the Prince of Anhalt, then to Caln, and over the River Sala, before it runneth into the Elbe, which arising at Mount Fichtelberg, now hastneth towards it. Fich­telberg is a considerable Mountain, near which are divers Mines, Bathes, and Mineral-waters, of which Gaspar Bruschius hath written a Description. And from it arise four Rivers, running to the four quarters of the World. The Maine or Moenus, towards the West; the Nab or Nabus, towards the South; the Aeger towards the East; and the forementioned Sala towards the North. These four afterwards fall into the three greatest Rivers of Ger­many, the Danube, the Rhine, and the Elbe. Then to Sals or Saltz, a placed noted for Salt-springs, and that night to Magdeburg.

Parthenopolis, or Magdeburg, is seated by the River Elbe, formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany, now under the Marquiss of Brandenburg, of very great Circuit, but little more than half built again, since it was sacked and burnt by Tilly, and Thirty six thousand persons put to the Sword and destroyed. I could not but observe the ruinous and destructive effects of the late wars in many [Page 142] parts of Germany, but not in any so great and flourish­ing a place as this: And a man might think, that after this great destruction of Houses and People, this place should not be able to stand a Siege; yet a few years after it was besieged by General Hatzfield, unto whom ( Bannier the Swede not being able to relieve it) it was yielded. The Cathedral Church is very fair, and built like an English one, by the Emperour Otho the First, and his Empress Editha, an English woman, Daughter unto King Edmund, whose Effigies in Stone I saw in the Church, with nine­teen Tuns of Gold by her which she gave thereto. And to say the truth, English mony hath done great things in Germany, for hereby, or with a good part thereof, this Church was built or endowed. Leopoldus, Duke of Au­stria, built the old Walls of Vienna with the ransome of King Richard the First, whom he detained in his return through Austria from the Holy Land. King Edward the First sent a great Sum of Mony unto the Emperour Adol­phus, for the raising of Souldiers in Germany, which the Emperour employed in purchasing a great part of Misnia for himself.

The Lutheran Churches are handsome, and their Pul­pits are extraordinary noble, and richly set off, as I ob­served, through all Saxony, Norimberg. And where they are Masters of the Places, and have not their Chur­ches only by permission; here they shewed me in the Cathedral Church of St. Maurice, the Statua's of the five wise Virgins smiling, and of the five foolish Virgins lament­ing, which are very well expressed: They shewed me al­so two odd Reliques, which they still kept as Rarities; that is, the Bason wherein Pilate washed his hands, when he declared himself free from the blood of our Saviour; and the Ladder whereon the Cock stood when he crowed after St. Peter's denying of Christ.

In the Ruines of the Cloister of the Augustines, there is still to be seen Luther's Chamber, his Bedstead, and Table, and upon the Door are these German Verses.

I lodged at Magdeburg, in an old man's House, who would tell me many stories of the burning of the Town, the cruelties and bloody usage of the people, who were destroy­ed without exception: The Nuns, many of them being drowned in the River Elbe. After which some observed that Count Tilly never prospered in his wars. He told me also that Dureus lodged with him, who was employed by King Charles the First, to endeavour a reconciliation between the Lutherans and Calvinists in Germany, and to unite them if possible. We were now in the Territory of the Elector of Brandenburg, Fridericus Wilhelmus, Great Chamberlain of the Empire, who is in effect pos­sessed of Magdeburg, and next unto the Austrian Family, is the most potent Prince in Germany, being able to raise great Armies, and his Dominions so large, that they are reckoned to extend two hundred German miles in length, from the further part of Prussia unto Cleve, but they lay not together, but interspersed with many other Princes [Page 144] Countries: Howsoever, a Horse-man may so order his Journey, as to lye every night in one of the Electour's Towns, in travelling from one end of his Territories to another.

I had now left the pure German Language behind me, for at Magdeburg comes in another kind of German, called Plat-Deutch, Broad-Dutch, Nidersachsische, or the Lan­guage of lower Saxony; a great Language, spoken in the North part of Germany: They speak it at Hamburg, Lubeck, and many great Cities: But they can converse with the other High-dutch, and with some difficulty also with the Netherlanders; the one speaking in his Language, and the other replying in his.

At this City of Magdeburg was performed the first Turnament that was in Germany, which was opened in the year 635. by the Emperour Henry, Surnamed the Fow­ler, who coming from the war of Hungary, exceedingly satisfied with the Nobility, would oblige them to exercise themselves in handling their Arms, and managing their Horses, and therefore instituted these Sports, whereby the Nobility was powerfully attracted to Valour and Gallan­try, and induced to perfect and accomplish themselves in all kind of Chevalry. No new Nobility, no Bastard, no Usurper, none guilty of High Treason, no Oppressor of Widows and Orphans, none born of Parents whereof one was of base Extraction and Ignoble, no Heretique, Mur­derer, Traytor, no Coward that had run away from the Battel, nor indiscreet Person that had given offence to La­dies by word or deed, were admitted to this Honour, nor above One of the same Family at a time. Princes came into the Lists with four Squires a piece, Counts and Ba­rons with three, a Knight with two, and a Gentleman with one.

The hour and place for the Turnament being appoint­ed, he that had a desire to break a Lance there, came to the Presidents Lodgings to have his Name written down, which was done in the presence of three Heralds, to whom the Champion delivered his Helmet and Sword, and after he had been at Confession, presented himself in the Lists with one or more Squires, according to his quality. The Horses of the Combatants were to be without fault or exception; the Caparisons and Furniture such as gave no offence; their Saddles without any extraordinary ri­sing before and behind, and all things equal. After which they performed all kind of Exercises on Horse-back: and after the Jousts were ended, every man repaired to the President of his Nation, to wait for the Sentence of the Judges; and he that best deserved the Prize, received it either from the hand of some Lady, or from the Prince that gave it.

These Pastimes were afterwards disused, upon the E­mulation it caused between the Princes and Nobility, who strove to outvie one another; or upon wars, in which there was no leisure for such Exercises; or perhaps upon con­sideration that divers brave men lost their lives in these Encounters: And no less a Prince than Henry the Second, King of France, neglecting to wear his Beaver down, was slain in a Turnament. And at Darmstadt also, in the year 1403. at the Three and twentieth Turnament which was held in Germany, the Gentlemen of Franconia and those of Hesse, drew so much blood upon one another, that there remained dead upon the place seventeen of the for­mer, and nine of the latter.

The Winter growing on called me to make haste to Hamburg, from whence I intended to pass by Sea into England, and therefore I took the advantage of the Stage-Coaches at Magdeburg, and in four days came to Ham­burg; [Page 146] I travelled through a Country for the most part barren, of little accommodation, or scarce any thing ve­ry remarkable, through part of the Electour of Branden­burg, and then through the Duke of Lunenburg's Coun­try, passing by the City of Lunenburg, a handsome wal­led City, beautified with divers fair Churches, with high Spires. The Church of St. Lambert, the Town-house, and the Duke's Palace, are fair. Here are Salt-springs in the Town, very beneficial to the place, and supplying the neighbour Countries. The Town is commanded by a Hill near to it, called Kalkberg, which lieth on the North-side.

In this Road through lower Saxony, I could not but take notice of many Barrows or Mounts of Earth, the burial Monuments of great and famous Men, to be often observed also in open Countries in England, and some­times rows of great Stones, like those in Wormius his Da­nish Antiquities: And in one place I took more particu­lar notice of them, where three massy Stones in the mid­dle, were encompassed in a large square by other large Stones set up an end.

Hamburg is a fair City, and one of the great ones in Ger­many; it is seated in a Plain, being populous, rich, and remarkably strong: It is fortified a la Moderne, much after the way of Holland, with works of earth, but in no place yet Revestues, or faced with brick or stone: The Territory belonging to it is but small; it is divided into the new and the old Town. There are five Gates: The Stone gate, leading towards Lubeck; the Dome-gate; the Alten-gate, or which leadeth unto Altenaw, a place near the Town, belonging to the King of Denmark, where the Romanists and Calvinists have their Churches; the Bridge-gate; and the Dike-gate. The Buildings of this City are handsome, and commonly have a fair entrance [Page 147] into them. The Senate-house is noble, adorned with carved Statua's of the Nine Worthies. The Exchange or place of meeting for Merchants, was then enlarging, it being too small to receive those Numbers which frequen­ted it. Many of their Churches are very fair, with high Steeples, covered with Copper. The Front of St. Kathe­rines is beautiful. The Steeple of St. Nicholas is sup­ported with great gilded Globes. The other great Churches, are the Dome-Church, St. Peters, St. Jacob. The greater and less, St. Michael, the New-Church in the New town. The lesser Churches, are St. Gertrude, St. Mary Magdalen, and the Holy Ghost. They have a Sermon every day, as in other Lutheran Cities.

The River Alster runs through it into the Elbe, and turneth many Mills: and the Tide comes up into divers Streets through Chanels, although it be distant eighteen German miles from the Sea, or Mouth of the Elbe. This place aboundeth with shipping, and many of good Bur­den, and is well seated for Trade, as having an open pas­sage into the Ocean, and being but a days Journey from the Lubeck on the Baltick Sea, and being seated upon the long River Elbe, the third great River of Germany, whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that Country, and as far as Bohemia.

Hamburg is full of Strangers and Merchants of several Countries. The English Company have good Priviledges and a rich Trade, and Ships come laden thither with Cloath to the value of an hundred thousand pounds sterling; and they live here in good Reputation, and to the honour of their Country: they are Persons of worth, courtesie, and civility; and I heartily wish them all success in their Af­fairs. I must not omit the acknowledgment of my par­ticular Obligation to that learned and worthy Person, Mr. Griffin, Preacher unto the Company, Mr. Free the Trea­surer, [Page 148] Mr. Banks, who hath been in many places of Na­tolia, and the Holy Land, Mr. Jenkinson, and my very obliging Friends Mr. Catelin and Mr. Townly.

This place hath the happiness to be quiet when the great Princes of Europe are at war; for it desires to hold a strict Amity with Princes, and declines all Dissention with them.

I found a Ship at Hamburg bound for London, and while it was fitting for Sail, I made a short excursion into part of the King of Denmarks Country; and returning to Hamburg again, I ordered my affairs for England upon the first wind, and hoped the next Tide to get over the Altenaw sand, and to pass the Blanckness, but a cross wind prevented, so that I left not Hamburg till the tenth of December, and then I had the good Company of Mr. Hoyle, who came from Narva, and set Sail in a new Ship; but the days being at the shortest, and the nights dark in the New Moon, the Tide falling also in the day time, we were able to get no further the first day than Stadt, or Stoade, upon the River Zwingh, a strong Town, belonging to the King of Sweden, where the Ships that come up the River pay Custome, and where the English Merchants had formerly their Residence, when they left Hamburg upon a Discontent.

December the 11th. we came by Gluckstadt, belonging to the King of Denmark, where the Castle, the King's Palace, and the Church are handsome, and Anchored that night before the Mouth of the River Oast, which ariseth in Bremerland, and falleth into the Elbe a mile from Bruns­büttel, on the other Holsatian shoar.

December the 12th. we lost sight of the Northern shoar, and passed Cook's Haven, in full hopes to put out to Sea that night; but about Three in the Afternoon we were becalmed a League and a half below it, where we were [Page 149] forced to come to an Anchor again, lest the strong Ebbe should set us on ground among the Sands: So we lay that night between Thicksand on the North, and Newark on the South, right over against a Light-house.

December the 13th. the wind turning Westernly, and blowing hard, we returned to Cook's Haven, and came to Anchor. Here I came a shoar, and went up the Land to the Fort in this place belonging to the City of Ham­burg: It is a high square Work, with a double Ditch, and some Vessels come up to the Fort; but the Ditch or Chanel which comes thither out of the Elbe, is dry at low water. The Town is called Reutsbüttel, not far from the Lands end. Two or three days after, with a cold North-East-wind, we set Sail for England. Coming out of the Elbe, we were all the Afternoon in sight of an Island, cal­led Heilige-landt, or Holy-land, belonging to the Duke of Holstein, which being very high Land, is to be seen at a good distance, and is of excellent use to direct and guide Ships into the Mouth of the Elbe, without which they would be at a great loss, the Country about that Rivers Mouth being all very low Land.

Heiligeland is a small Island, having about two thou­sand Inhabitants, and six or seven small Vessels belonging to it, which are imployed a great part of the year in bring­ing Lobsters and other Fish to London or Quinborough, the Inhabitants living most upon Fish. We bore out to Sea all night, and the next day made towards the Land again, and sailed in sight of Schiemoniekeoghe, Amelandt, and Schelling: in the Evening we saw the Lights at the Vly and Texel; when we were near the Land, we were much troubled with the Frost and cold Weather, and less when we were off at Sea. The next day we had a fair wind, and made such way, that in the Evening we took down our Sails, and let the Vessel drive, not being wil­ling [Page 150] to deal with the shoar in the night. The next morn­ing we soon discovered the Northforeland covered with Snow, and came to an Anchor in Margarite-Road, where the wind growing very high, we rode it out for two days and two nights, and came safe on shoar (praised be God) upon Christmas-day morning.

Now having made so long a walk in Germany, I must confess I returned with a better opinion of the Country, than I had before of it; and cannot but think it very considerable in many things. The Rivers there­of are noble, and seem to exceed those of France and I­taly. Of the Rivers of Italy, the Padus or Po, is the most considerable, which notwithstanding, hath no very long course, before it runneth into the Adriatick Sea. And Italy being divided by the Appennine-hills, running from West to East, the Rivers which arise from either side, cannot be long, neither on the South-side, before they run into the Mediterranean, as the Arno, Garigliano, and others: Nor on the North side, before they run into the Adriatick, or the Po.

The chief Rivers of France, as the Loyre, the Seine, the Rhosne, and the Garonne, I cannot but highly com­mend, having passed upon them for divers days. There are also four great Rivers in Germany; the Danube, the Rhine, the Elbe, and the Oder, but none of France seem comparable unto the Rhine and Danube. France having the Sea upon the North, the West, and the two large Pro­vinces of Languedoc, and Province upon the Mediterra­nean Sea, hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Sea­ports: But some doubt may be made, Whether any there­of do exceed Hamburg, Lubeck, and Dantzick.

The great number of populous, large, and handsome Cities, doth afford great content unto a Traveller in Ger­many; for besides about Sixty six free Imperial Cities, [Page 151] are many more of good note belonging to particular Princes, and divers highly priviledged. And surely a true Estimation of the Cities and Towns of these days, cannot be duly made from the Accounts and Descripti­ons thereof left an hundred years since or more, for since those times, Buildings have been better modelled and or­dered; Fortifications and Out-works more regularly contrived; Convents and Publick Houses more neatly and commodiously built; and the fair Colledges and Churches of the Jesuites, which are now to be seen in most, do much set off the Beauty of great Places. Every where we meet with great and populous Towns, Villages, Castles, Seats of the Nobility, Plains, Forests, and plea­sant Woods. And besides the satisfaction we may have from Objects above ground, we may find no small con­tent in the wonders thereof under it, in Mines, Minerals almost of all sorts, of Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron, Tinn, Lead, Quicksilver, Antimony, Coal, Salt, Sulphur, Cad­mia, and others, where there are also singular Artificers and Workmen, in the several Artifices thereof. Con­versation with the People is easie, they behaving them­selves without much Formality, and are plain-dealing and trusty, so that a Traveller needs not to be so so­licitous and heedful of what he hath, as in some other Countries, which are esteemed of greater Civility. The Women are generally well-complexioned, sober, and grave, and they have not yet learned the custome of their Neighbours of France and Holland, to admit of being saluted by Men: faithful to their Husbands, and careful in the affairs of their Houses.

They make good provision against the cold of their Country, by sleeping between two Feather-beds and Stoves.

The common Stoves in Inns, wherein there are for the most part several Companies eating, drinking, and in the night sleeping, are convenient, considering the great cold, or at least tolerable; but they being rooms close shut up, the smell of the meat, and especially of Cabbage, an usual Dish amongst them, makes them un­pleasant, so that sometimes I preferred the course of hot Countries, while I called to mind, that in Pro­vince and Italy we drank frozen Julebs, which we dis­solved with the heat of our hands; slept upon a sheet, on the outside of the Bed, with all the Windows of the Chamber open; and as we sate at dinner, there was a Fann in the middle of the Room, hanging over our Heads, about two yards broad, which with a string was pulled backward and forward to cool us, and divers had Pans filled with Snow, to cool the sheets when they went into their Beds.

Germany is a great Hive of men, and the mighty de­struction of men made by the last German wars, and by the Plague is so repaired, that it is scarce discernible. They are fruitful, and full of Children: They are not exhausted by Sea, Colonies sent forth, or by peopling A­merican Countries; but they have some consumption by wars abroad, when they be at peace at home: few wars being made in other parts of Europe, wherein there are not some Regiments of Germans; the People being na­turally Martial, and persons well descended, very averse from a Trading course of Life.

While I read in Tacitus of the old barbarous and rude State of Germany, how poorly they lived, that they had their Houses at a distance from one another; how igno­rant they were in Arts; and it was doubted whether their Country afforded Mines; that they lived by exchange of things, making little or no use of mony, and the like, [Page 153] I may justly wonder to behold the present advance and improvement in all commendable Arts, Learning, Civili­ty, splendid and handsome Cities and Habitations, and the general face of things incredibly altered since those ancient times; and cannot but approve the expression of a Learned Man, though long since, That if A [...]v [...]stus, Civilis, and those old famous men of Germany, should re­vive in their Country again, and look up to Heaven behold­ing the Constellations of the Bears and other Stars, they might probably acknowledge that these were the same Stars which they were wont to behold; but if they should look downward, and well view the face of all things, they would imagine themselves to be in a new world, and never acknowledge this to have been their Country.

DUring the Treaty of Peace at Colen in the year 1673. between the United States of the Netherlands, the King of Great Britain, and the French King; many English Gentlemen ha­ving accompanied their Excellencies the Lords Ambassadours and Pleni­potentiaries in their Journey, had a desire also to view some of the Neighbouring Territo­ries, [Page 155] and to divertise themselves during the heat of the Summer, at the Spaa, the Baths of Aken, and other pla­ces. Having therefore, in order to our Journey, obtain­ed a Pasport for our Safety from Count Blondel, one of the Spanish Plenipotentiaries, and from their Excellencies Sir Joseph Williamson, and Sir Leoline Jenkins; we left Coln on Munday the Fourth of July, and upon the Road overtook my Lord of Peterborough, who had been at Dusseldorp, at the Duke of Newburg's Court, and went afterwards into Italy to Modena, and brought over her Highness the present Dutchess of York. We dined at a small walled Town, called Berckem, which some think to be a name corrupted from Tiberiacum, where we stay­ed a great part of the Afternoon, to accommodate an un­lucky Accident which happened: A Servant of one of the English Gentlemen having casually shot a Horse, which belonged to a Commander under the Duke of Newburg, lying at that time with a party of Horse at this Town, so that we travelled in the Evening through the Woods, and came late to a place called Steinstrasse, and the next day morning we went to Juliers.

Gulick, or Juliers, is a small Town by the River Roer, but very ancient, and called by the Romans, Juliacum, conceived to have been founded by Julius Caesar; the Seat sometimes of the Dukes of Gulick, before the uni­ting hereof with Cleve; and since the dissolution of that Estate, possessed by the United Provinces; and then a­gain by the Spaniards; but at present in the hands of the Duke of Newburg. It being agreed at the conclusion of Peace between the Spaniards and the Hollanders, That the Marquess of Brandenburg should have Marck and Cleve, and the Duke of Newburg, Gulick and Berg. This is a handsome well fortified Town, the Streets streight, and the Houses of Brick. The Citadel consists of four Bastions, [Page 156] of a regular Fortification; within which is the Princes Palace. The Piazza in the Town is handsome; and the whole considerable for its beauty and strength.

July the 5th. we came to Aken, or Aquisgranum, sive Leagues distant from Gulick; the French call it Aix la Chapelle, from a Chappel in the great Church, much visited by Pilgrims from many parts; and famous for the great number of Reliques preserved therein. When the Ro­mans made war upon the Germans, they possessed them­selves of divers places between the Rhine and Maes. And Granus, a noble Roman, being sent into these parts of Gallia Belgica, about the year of our Lord Fifty three, discovered among the Woods and Hills these hot Springs, which to this day are so much celebrated in many parts of Europe; who afterwards made use of them, and a­dorned them after the manner of the Roman Baths, and built a noble Habitation near them; part of which the Inhabitants would have still to be standing, retaining the name of Turris Grani, an old Tower at the East-end of the Town-house; a noble Antiquity: But the manner of its building gives suspicion it cannot be so old. Hence these Thermae from their Discoverer have been named Aquae Graniae, and came to be frequented; and the Town of Aquisgrane built and flourished, till Attila, the King of the Huns, or Hungarians, destroyed it.

About four hundred years after, Charles the Great ri­ding out a hunting in these parts, as he passed through the Woods, his Horses Foot strook into one of these Hot­springs; near which he also took notice of the Ruins of ancient Palaces and Buildings long before forsaken; and being still more and more delighted with the pleasant Si­tuation of the place, and conveniency of these hot Ri­volets, he renewed and adorned the Baths, built his Royal Palace near them: and appointed that the King of [Page 157] the Romans should be crowned with an Iron Crown here as with a Silver one at Milan, and a Gold one at Rome. He also built a noble Collegiate Church, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, in the presence of many Princes and Bi­shops, in the year 804, and endowed it with Revenues for the maintainance of Canons, who lived together in a Colledge at first, but at present separately in the manner of Prebends. He built also the old or inward Wall of the City, so that it flourished till the year 882. at which time it was again ruined by the Fury of the Normans, and the Emperours Palace burnt to the ground. This Ci­ty, besides these Devastations from the Irruptions of the Huns and Normans, hath been divers times since de­stroyed by Fire; as in the year 1146. which loss it overcame in such manner, that Twenty six years after, it recovered not only its former greatness, but was so much increased, that the large outward Wall was built by the command of the Emperour Frederick the First.

In the year 1224. happened another great Fire, in which, not only the Buildings, but many of the Inha­bitants perished. And the Roof of the Church was burnt in another Fire 1236. And now of late, for it is not long since it hath recovered its losses by the Fire in the year 1656. when twenty Churches and Chappels, and about five thousand private Houses were destroyed.

The Town-house, or Senate-house, was built 1353. being all of Free-stone, handsomely adorned with the Statues of the Emperours. The first and second Story of this Building is divided into Chambers; but the highest is all one entire Room or Hall, 162 Foot long, and 60 Foot broad. It is well painted in divers parts by Ami­saga: Two Pieces of whose drawing are much esteemed here; one of the Resurrection, and another of Charles [Page 158] the Great, giving the Charter to the City of Aken. Here the Emperours, at the time of their Coronation, used to keep their Feasts, together with the Electours and other Princes. The Roof is supported by four Pillars; through the middle of which, the smoak of all the Chimneys of this Building, is by a handsome contrivance conveyed away.

Over against this House, in the middle of the Piazza, is a Fountain, considerable both for largeness and neat structure, contrived by a great Artist, Gerard Coris: where four Springs perpetually empty themselves from above into a large Bason of Copper, of thirty Foot Dia­meter; from whence again it descends by six Pipes into a Cistern of Stone, handsomely engraved, and passeth to many other Fountains in the Town. On the top of this Fountain stands a large Statue of Charles the Great, Patron of this City, made of brass, and gilded over. He is in Armour, and looketh towards Germany. About the edges of the great brass Bason is this Inscription:

Hic aquis per Granum Principem quendam Romanum, Neronis & Agrippae fratrem inventis, calidorum fontium Thermae à Principio constructae. Postea verò per D. Caro­lum Magnum Imp. constituto ut locus hic fit caput & regni sedes trans Alpes, renovatae sunt: quibus Thermis hic ge­lidus fons influxit olim quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vase il­lustravit S. P. Q. Aquisgranensis, Anno Domini 1620.

The Church of our Lady, built by Charles the Great, is of an odd Figure. At the West-end is a Steeple adorned with divers Pyramids; and on the top a large Globe and Cross. From hence, higher much than the Church, passeth a Gallery, supported by a large Arch to a Cupola near the [Page 159] middle of the Church. At the East-end is also a small Turret or Lanthorn. The inside of the whole is adorned with Marble Pillars of divers sorts, with Pillars of brass, gilded Statues, brass Doors and Partitions, and much Mosaick work.

In the middle of the Church, where Charles the Great was buried, hangeth a very large Crown, given to this Church by the Emperour Frederick the First. This Crown is made of silver and brass gilt, adorned with sixteen little Towers, and eight and forty Statues of silver, of about a Foot high, and thirty two which are lesser. Be­tween these stand eight and forty Candlesticks to receive the Lights burnt here upon Festivals.

Of these large Crowns I have seen at Colen, and other parts; and it hath been an ancient Ornament in Churches. The Greeks have a Crown, or large Circle much like this, in the middle of most of their best Churches; on which they hang many Ostrich Eggs, and the Pictures of the A­postles and Saints. The Turks do likewise imitate it in their Mosques, but instead of Pictures place Lamps.

Frederick the First took up the Body of Charles the Great out of its Sepulchre in the middle of the Church, and afterwards buried it again; partly in a silver Coffin under the Altar of the Quire, and partly near the Wall of the old Building, covering it with the same Tomb-stone, as before; which is here reported to have been first ta­ken from the Tomb of Julius Caesar. It is of white Mar­ble, and hath the Figure of Proserpina upon it. Out of this Tomb of Charles the Great, were taken up a great number of Reliques and considerable Rarities, which he had got together in his life time; some of them given him by Aaron King of Persia, by the Patriarch of Constanti­nople, and others; divers of which are still preserved here: and these following we had the opportunity to see. [Page 160] Some of the blessed Virgins hair. One ring or link of the Chain with which St. Peter was chained in Prison. The Head of Charles the Great. The bones of his Arm. His Sword which the Emperours wear at the time of their Co­ronation. The Picture of the Virgin Mary, with our Sa­viour in her Arms, embossed upon a Jaspis, done by St. Luke, hanged about the Neck of Charles the Great, and so found in his Tomb. A Noble Manuscript of the Gospels found in the same Tomb. Charles the Great's Horn which he used when he went a hunting. His Crucifix made out of the wood of the Cross. Our Saviour's Girdle of Leather, with the Seal of Constantine the Great at each end. A piece of the true Manna. Some of the Bones and Blood of St. Stephen, richly enchased, upon which the Emperours are sworn at their Inauguration. A piece of one of the Nails of the Cross. An Agnus Dei sent from the Pope to Charles the Great; and many other Reliques. Here is al­so the Tomb of the Emperour Otho the Third, in black Marble, who in the year 1000, first constituted the Ele­ctors of Germany.

Near to this City are many sorts of Minerals found; as Lead ore, the Sulphur, and Vitriol-stone, Iron, Coal, and Cadmia, or Lapis Calaminaris: With this latter we saw them make Brass, or multiply Copper, in this manner. They take calcined Cadmia, or Calmey, as they call it, Copper from Sweden, and the melted dross of both; to twenty eight pounds of Copper they put an hundred pound of Calmey: They put first into very large Crucibles, some old pieces of brass and slacken, or the dross, and after­wards the Calmey and Copper, and let them stand in the Furnace twelve hours; after which, they put eight Cru­cibles full into one, and let what will run over, the best sinking always to the bottom; and then cast it into a Frame made of stone, bordered with bars of Iron; and [Page 161] so run it into brass Plates, which are afterwards cut in pie­ces with large Cissars.

The hot Bathes are very much frequented at present. Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones: The Emperours Bath, the Little Bath, and the Bath of S. Qui­rinus. The Emperours Bath is in the same place, and fed with the same Springs with that in which formerly Charles the Great took so much delight, that he frequently used to swim therein; in which Exercise few were more ex­pert than himself; and spent the latter end of his days here, and would often invite to the Bath, not only his Sons, but his Nobles, his Friend and Guards; so as it was customary to Bathe a hundred together in those days. But now they are divided into lesser Partitions. The Emperours Bath having five Bathing Rooms; and the Lit­tle Bath which cometh out of it three. These are reckoned to be Nitro-Sulphureus; and arise so hot, that they let them cool twelve hours before they use them. From un­der a great round Stone which covered a Well, in which there were some of these Hot Springs, I saw Brimstone, hard, above an inch thick, and Salt-peter, and a petri­fied Substance finely variegated, taken out.

Besides these, near unto the inward Wall of the City, there are Baths which are not so hot as the former, esteem­ed to be Sulphureo-nitrous: The smell of them is some­what offensive, and the water in the Cisterns not transpa­rent. The first is the Bath of St. Cornelius, which hath two Receptacles. The second, the Rose Bath, so cal­led from Mr. Rose, a Citizen of Aken, who built it. The third, Compus Badt, or the Poor man's Bath. Of this sort of warm Water there is also a Fountain, much resorted to, and drank of every morning in the Summer for many Chro­nical Diseases. About a Furlong out of the South-gate of Aken, is a Village called Porcetum, or Borset, from the [Page 162] great number of wild Hoggs, which formerly frequented that place; in which are many Hot Springs upon both sides of a little Rivolet, and let into Houses, where they are distributed into several Baths of Stone. There are fourteen of these Houses, and twenty eight Baths; the Baths holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water, each of them: the Water is clear and pleasant, without any offensive smell; excessive hot when it cometh first out of the Ground, hotter than the hottest of Aken, and is left to cool about eighteen hours before they use it. They use also an Instrument of Wood, pierced with many holes, to help to cool them sooner, or to stir the Water when any one goeth in, whereby he is not so sensible of the heat. There are many cold Springs rise near these hot ones, whereby they might be tempered; and surely the quantity of the hot Water being so great, no place might be made more delightful, nor no Baths more noble. The Turks in our times, do most of any Nation beautifie their Baths, and render them serviceable to their health and pleasure.

In Austria at Baden, the Sawer Bath is built after the Turkish manner, with a Cupola over it: and if any one hereafter shall build or beautifie these, they will yield to very few in Europe. At present most of them are of a square Figure, of about five or six yards over; and the Houses in which they are, very near one another. The first House hath the name of the Ladies Bath; the second is the Snake; the third and fourth the Sword; the fifth the Golden Mill; the sixth the Fool; the seventh the Cock; the eighth the Great Bath; the ninth the Fountain; the tenth the Crab; the eleventh the World Inverted; the twelfth the Glass; the thirteenth the Angel; and the fourteenth the Rose. There is also another in the open Air, called the Poor man's Bath. In the Street is a Well [Page 163] or Fountain of these Hot-springs, of as great a heat as any I have seen; perpetually boyling or bubling. But of all these Baths Dr. Blondel and Dr. Didier have writ­ten so particularly, as I need not to add any thing more, and particularly of their Uses.

Within two Leagues of Aken, in the Country of Lim­bourg, is a Mine of Lapis Calaminaris, which we went to see, having a Corporal and eight Musquetiers for our Security to pass the Wood. This Mine heth over a­gainst the Castle of Einenberg. As soon as I had delive­red a Letter to Mr. John Franck, Comptroller of the Mine for his Catholick Majesty, he went along with us, to shew us the manner how the Cadmia groweth in the Earth, and other Curiosities. This Mine having been wrought Three hundred years, and being one of the most remarkable of that kind, it may not be impertinent to set down some particulars concerning it. It is about eighteen or nineteen Fathoms deep, lying all open like a Chalk Mine, of an Oval Figure; they digg at present in several places, and the best Calmey lieth between the Rocks, in the deepest part of the Mine: They have now found an excellent Veyn so placed, of eleven or twelve Foot thick, which they digg out with Pickaxes, with some difficulty, by reason that the Lapis Calaminaris is so very hard. The colour of this Stone is of a dark yellow and red, and hath Veyns of natural Brimstone mixed thin­ly in it. The Veyns of the Lapis Calaminaris being so large, they follow them not only in one place, but digg over one anothers heads, and frame their work into the shape of large Stayrs, and one throws up what another diggs, and so upward till they lade the Carts with it. Some of the Cadmia is blackish and dark brown; and there are Fluores between the Cavities of the Stone hand­somely figured, but most of a blackish colour. The works [Page 164] about the Mine the most remarkable, are these: 1. An Overshot-wheel in the Earth, which moves the Pumps to pump out the water; and this not placed in the Mine, but on one side of it, and a passage cut out of the Mine to the bottom of it, by which the Mine is drained; and another passage or cuniculus, out of the place where the wheel is turned, which lets out the water which turns the wheel, and also the water which cometh out of the Mine into the Neighbouring Valley. 2. The washing of the Ore or Stone, which they perform, as at other works, by letting the water over it, and stirring it; and this they do wheresoever they begin to work near the Superficies of the Earth, for there the Calmey is less, and more mixed with Clay and Earth: but the most remarkable work is the calcining of the Ore (for all our Lapis Calaminaris of the Shops is the calcined Calmey) and it is worth the see­ing; for they place Faggots in a handsome order first, and cover a large round Area with them, of about For­ty or Fifty yards Diameter, upon which they place Char­coal in as good an order, till all be covered and filled up a yard from the ground; then they place ranks of the largest Stones of Calmey, and after them smaller, till they have laid all on; and then by setting fire to the bottom, the fire comes to each stone, and all is handsomely calci­ned. From hence we went to Limburg, meeting with di­vers Souldiers upon the Road, who desired mony of us, but did not attempt any thing against us, we being many of us together in Company.

Limburg is seated upon a high Rock, which overlooks all the Country, and a little River runneth almost round it at the bottom. The Avenue to the Town on the North­side is difficult all along upon the edge of the Rock; and the Gate of the Town, over which is the Governour's House, spreads it self from one side of the Rock to the [Page 165] other, and locketh up the passage. Here we shew our Pasports from the Spanish Plenipotentiaries; and in the Afternoon had a pleasant Journey to the Spaa. In the way we saw where the French Army had passed the Country towards Metz, having lain about a Fortnight at Vichet, after the taking of Maestreicht.

Spà is a neat Villedge in the Forest of Ardenna, seated in a bottom, encompassed on all sides with Hills, and on the North with steep Mountains. So that it happening to rain while we were there, the place was, in some hours time, filled with water, the Hay washed out of the Mea­dows, the falls in the River made even, and Pohunt, one of the Mineral Fountains, was drowned. There was not much Company when we were there, although it were in the hottest time of the year, which is most seasonable for drinking the waters; by reason of the wars, and the danger of coming through the Country to them. But in Spà it self all people are free from danger, all the Neigh­bouring Princes protecting it, and would count it very dishonourable to disturb a place, which by the virtue of its Mineral Springs, is so beneficial to Mankind. These Waters are not only drunk upon the place, but are also sealed up in Bottles, and sent into many parts of Europe. And Mr. Coquelet, at whose House we lodged, told me that he sent it as far as Saragossa in Spain: and that he had at that time Thirty thousand Bottles empty, and waited for a good season to fill them, which is the hottest, dry­est time of the Summer, and the hardest Frost in Winter; at which times the water is strongest, sparkling, and brisk, The chiefest of these Mineral Fountains are these, Geron­ster, Saviniere, Tonnelet, and Pohunt.

Geronster is in the middle of a thick Wood, about an English mile and a half Southward of the Spà; it is the strongest of any, and the best adorned, being built up [Page 166] with stone, and a Pavilion over it, supported with four handsome stone Pillars. There is a green place cleared in the Wood near to it, and a little House for the Patients to warm themselves in early, in the morning, or in cold wea­ther. The Arms of S ^r Conrad Bourgsdorff, who adorn­ed this Fountain, are placed over, on two sides; and on the other two this Inscription in French and High-dutch, in a handsome Oval.

Le Reverendissime & Excellentissime S ^r S ^r Conrade Bourgsdorff, Grand Chamberlan, & premier Conseiller d'Estat, Colonel & Gouverneur General de tous les Forts & Forteresses du Serenissime Electeur de Brandebourg dans son Estat Electoral, Grand Prevost des Eglises Cathedrales d'Halberstadt & Brandebourg, Chevalier de l'Ordre de St. Jean, & Commandeur du Baillage de Lagow, de gros Machenau, Golbeck, Bouckow, Oberstorff, &c. &c. &c.

This Fountain smelleth very strong of Brimstone, and causeth vomiting in a great many, yet passeth chiefly by Urine, as they do all; and strikes a purple with Nut­galls more inclining to red, than the waters of Tunbridge. The Sediment is of a light blew in the Fountain, but of a dark dirty red every where else. Not far from this is a­nother large Spring in the Wood much like it, but not as yet built and beautified.

Saviniere is another Fountain, almost as far from the Spà Eastward, and built after the manner of a Tower: the Acidulae are not so strong as the former. There is another Fountain hard by this, almost the same, held to be par­ticularly good for the Stone and Gravel.

The third is Tonnelet, arising in the Meadow, and built up with stone: But being there are no Trees nor Shades a­bout it, it is not so delightful as the others. And Hen­ricus ab Heers in his Spadacrene, saith that this is more ni­trous than the rest, and causeth such a coldness in the mouth and stomach, that few can drink of it.

The fourth is Pohunt, in the middle of the Town, from whence most of the water is drawn which is sent abroad, if no particular one be sent for. This was beautified with handsome Stone-work, by the Bishop of Liege, to whom this place belongeth, and this Inscription set over it, Sa­nitati Sacrum. It is also called the Fountain of St. Remaclus, to whom it was dedicated; and these Verses are likewise engraven upon it:

Being at the Spà, we visited Franchimont one After­noon, passing through a thick Wood, there is an old Ca­stle, and good Brimstone and Vitriol-works, the same Stone affording both; and I presume may also make the Spa-water under ground, or at least be a principal In­gredient in it. We saw the manner here how they mel­ted, and cast their Brimstone first into great Pails, the florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle, the thick and more obscure subsiding and adhering to the [Page 168] bottom and sides, and is that which is sold for Sulphur Vivum. We saw also the manner of casting the Brim­stone into Rolls, or Magdaleons: And near unto this place a smoaking, burning, little Hill, which is thus caused: They throw out the burnt Pyrites, out of which Brimstone hath been distilled, and the Vitriol drawn out by infusion, upon this Hill, which consists all of the same matter, which ferments in time, grows hot, smoaks, and burns perpetually, and withal, drinks in a new Vitriol into its self.

From the Spà we crossed over to Frapont, a Village seated upon the pleasant River Uta, or Ourte, where we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream, yet one of the pleasantest I ever saw, winding and turning between so many green Hills, in part of the Forest of Arduenna. We descended afterwards thirty or forty small Falls in a long Boat made on purpose. The Oar or Paddle being only a square piece of Board fixed to the end of a Pole, the Pole standing perpendicularly in the middle of it. The delightful River Vesa, or the Wesdret, soon met us, and joyning together, we fell down with them into the Maes near Liege. Upon the Banks of these Rivers all the Arms, Guns, and other Instruments are made, for which the Country of Liege is remarkable.

Liege, Luick, Leodium, or Augusta Eburonum; Learned Men think this City to be seated near that Val­ley, wherein two Legions of Julius Caesar, under Sabi­nus and Cotta, were destroyed by Ambiorix, chief Com­mander of the Eburones. It is seated upon the River Mosa, which entring with two Streams, makes some pretty Islands. Three other small Rivers arising in the Forest of Ardenna, are also here received into the Maes, whereby they have plenty of Fish and other Conveniencies. The City is very populous, and so it [Page 169] hath been in former Ages, when as Charles Duke of Pur­gunay, sacked it, and destroyed an hundred thousand of the people.

It aboundeth with fair Churches, stately Convents, and Religious Foundations, richly endowed, so that it hath been called the Paradise of Priests, and is in that kind the most notable in all these parts. The Palace of the Bishop is a noble Fabrick, built by Cardinal Erardus, Bishop of Liege. The Cathedral beareth the Name of St. Lambert, who being Bishop of Maestreicht was murder­ed by Dodo and others, about the year 622. The See was afterwards translated unto Liege by Hubertus, as it had been formerly from Tongres to Maestreicht, and the Bo­dy of St. Lambert removed unto this Church, which is at present very noble, being built of a reddish Stone, very much carved without, and handsomely adorned within. Between the Quire and Sacristy, is this Inscrip­tion in very large Letters:

The Canons hereof are of great riches and power, and have the Election of the Bishop and Prince, who hath also had the Titles of Duke of Bouillon, Marquiss of Fran­chimont, and Count of Lootz and Hasbania. In the [Page 170] Coin of Maximilian, the present Elector of Colen and Bishop of Liege, I find this Inscription:

Maximilianus Henricus Dei gratiâ Archiepiscopus Colo­niensis, Episcopus & Princeps Leodiensis, Supremus Bul­lonensis Dux.

Speutus the Bishop of Liege, bought the Principality of Liege of Godfrey of Bouillon, when he went to the Holy Land: And in the Treaty of Cambray, 1559. the pos­session of Bouillon, and precedency of Title, was gran­ted to the Bishop of Liege, although at this time also the Houses of La Tour and Mark do bear the same.

Of the Parish Churches that of St. John, and of St. Servasius are fair. Of the Abbies that of St. Jacob with­in the Town, and of St. Lawrence, built by Bishop Ra­ginardus upon an Hill out of the Town, are noble. There is also a Colledge of English Jesuites, well-seated upon a Hill, where the Garden is handsome, and the Dyals made by Franciscus Linus, are worth the seeing: And an Eng­lish Nunnery handsomely built. In the Church of the Gu­lielmites, out of the Town, lieth the Body of our famous Country-man Sir John Mandeville, who, after he had travelled through so many parts, took an affection unto this place, and here passed the remainder of his life, and whose Epitaph, and some Rarities of his, are still to be seen.

Bishop Notger, who was consecrated by St. Gereon, Arch-bishop of Colen, and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City, and being Tutor to Otho the third, he found means very much to beautifie it, to repair and build divers Churches, and endow them with rich Re­venues, and let the River Maes into the Town, which be­fore ran upon one side of it.

As their Churches are fair and numerous, so are their Bells and Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedral of St. Lambert there are eight large Bells, and twelve lesser; and there is one so great, as it is said to require Twenty four men to ring it. In the Church of St. Paul the Bells and Chimes are considerable; as also at St. Lawrence and the crossed Friers. It is also an University, and was so famous in former Ages, that they still take notice that at one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings, Twenty four Dukes Sons, Twenty nine of Counts, besides many of great Barons Students therein.

Their Speech here, as also at Spaw, is called Roman, and is a kind of old French, or Dialect of that Language, a great part of which is made up of Latin, or Roman words: and they call the Neighbouring Language of the Dutch, Tuiscon. But many speak very good French. They have some Vineyards affording a small Wine. The Hills about furnish them with Quarries of good Stone, and of several kinds. They have also divers Mines and Minerals, and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire, in some places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer the Surface: and in one place I saw them beginning to dig where they immediately found Coal. Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water, are very considerable at these Mines; in some places moved by Wheels, at above a Furlongs distance, to which they are continued by strong Wood-work, which moves backwards and for­wards continually.

The Citadel standeth upon a Hill, and is of great Strength; It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjection. For 1649. there being some disturbances in the City, Ferdinand, the Elector of Colen, offering to come into the Town to appease it, was opposed by the Consul, Ja­cobus [Page 172] Hennet, who was soon after surprised and behead­ed, together with Bartholomaeus Rolandus; the Consul ha­ving sworn the Elector should never come in whilst he were alive. And the Citadel soon after was ordered to be built. The Bridges are handsome: that over the great Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair, and hath large Arches. From hence we could read the Elector's name upon the Citadel, Maximilianus, although it were at a very great distance, the Letters were so large.

From Liege we had a pleasant passage down the Water to Maestreicht, passing by Argentau, a Castle seated up­on a high Rock on the right side of the River, belonging then to the King of Spain, afterwards by Vichet in the half way, and then by Navagne, a strong Fort in the Maes, which commands the River, and at that time did the Spaniard service; then by pleasant Rocks on our left hand, wherein many Cuts and Passages have been digged, till we came in sight of Maestreicht.

This Town having been a little before taken from the United States by a sharp Siege, was full of French, and had a Garrison in it of about Ten thousand men; and in the Market-place stood about Two hundred large Field­pieces. We saw the places where they had their Batte­ries and their Mines, and the Half-moon which the Duke of Monmouth took: the Out-works were very nume­rous, and many of them undermined. Colonel Storff shew'd us a handsome Draught of all the Works, Ap­proaches and Manner of taking of the Town.

About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone, which is one of the no­blest sure in the World. Between Padoa and Vicenza I had formerly seen the famous Cave of Custoza, or Cubola, said to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth, and [Page 173] Seven hundred in length, but this doth far surpass it: the Roof is very high and stately in most places, the Pil­lars not to be numbred, all very large; we passed two miles under ground amongst them: No Labyrinth can be contrived more intricate, and yet all parts are uniform. The Floor all in a level, and the Roof in most places of the same height, and so much hath that uniform rule, which I suppose was set to those who first digged, and so hath successively been observed, added to the beauty of this place, that there is scarce any thing more noble. It put me in mind of the hundred Chambers of Nero, which he caused to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Baiae. And the Water which we met with in one place, made me think of Nero's admirable Fish-pond, built in the like manner within the Earth. We came out again near to a Convent upon the Banks of the River, and returned by water to Maestreicht.

The next day we parted Company. Mr. Newton, Mr. Ettrick, Mr. Grove, Mr. Carlton, and Mr. Newcomb went for Aken and Colen; Mr. Bates and Mr. Daston went up the River again to Liege, at which place, staying a day or two to find a convenience to pass to Brussels, we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with Venison, Wild-boar, and other Dishes, by that worthy Person and Learned Mathematician Franciscus Slusius, one of the great Canons of Liege, who also continued his high Civilities to us to the last Minute we stayed in Town.

Leaving Liege we soon came in sight of Tongres, or Tungrorum oppidum, the most ancient place in all these Countries. Ortelius would have it to be called of old Atuatuca: It was a strong hold before the coming of Julius Caesar into Gaul, and was afterwards made a Ro­man Station, and in process of time became so great, [Page 174] that Attila the Hun destroyed an hundred Churches in it, it being at that time a Bishops See, which in the year 498 St. Servatius removed unto Maestreicht. Many old Coins and Antiquities are still found here; and part of an old Chappel, said to be built by St. Maternus, Disciple to St. Peter, is still remaining. When the King of France made his great inroad into the Low Countries, 1672. he borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne, and then passed on to Maseick, where crossing the Country to the Rhine, by the sides of these great Rivers, Rhine and Maes, he made that notable Incursion, and quitted not Tongres till he had taken Maestreicht the year following. We dined this day at Borchloe, and lodged at St. Trurn, or St. Truden, a handsome little Town, so called from a Church and Abby herein dedicated to that Saint.

The next day we dined at Tienen, or Tilmont, on the little River Geet, once one of the chief Towns in Bra­bant, but long since decayed. In these Plain Countries, in many places we saw small Hills, or Sepulchral Eminen­ces of the Ground: And near unto the Walls of Yienen, are three very remarkable ones, said to be the Tombs of great Commanders. In the Evening we came to Lo­vain.

Lovain is the chief City of that quarter of Brabant, which comprehendeth Arschot, Halen, and Judoigne; an ancient and large City, pleasantly seated upon the River Dele; it is of great Circuit, and the compass of the wall accounted above four miles about: but there are many void Spaces, Hills, Fields, and Gardens within it, which makes it very pleasant and delightful. There are herein divers good Buildings, Convents, and Chur­ches: the chief whereof is the stately Church of St. Peter, the Convent of the Carthusians, the Hospital. [Page 175] The publick Palace or Senate-house are also No­ble.

It is the great University of these parts, said to have had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the Fourth, Duke of Brabant, and confirmed by Pope Mar­tin the Fifth, 1425. There are Forty three Colledges in it; whereof the four chief are Lilium, Falco, Castrum, Porcus. Goropius Becanus, a Learned Man, and Native of Brussels, affirmeth, That no University in Italy, France, Germany, or Spain, is to be compared unto it for its e­legant and pleasant Situation. The University is under the Government of Rector, who is in great esteem and honour among them. This University hath produced many Learned Men: But neither the Buildings of the Col­ledges, nor their Endowments do equal those of our Uni­versities, and the Situation thereof seems not to exceed that of Oxford.

We travelled from hence to Brussels, being most part of the way in the sight of the very high Tower of the Church of St. Rombald at Machlin.

Count Monterei was then Governour of the Low-Countries, and resided at Brussels, the ordinary Seat of the Governours of the Spanish Netherlands; which City he had taken care to fortifie, and to make it more tena­ble, if it should be attempted by the French.

From Brussels we passed to Antwerp, where we were handsomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartop, and having visited some of our Friends, the next day we passed the River Schelde, and took Coach in the morning, travelling through a fruitful, plain, flat Country, set with rows of Trees in most places, and arrived in the e­vening at Ghent.

Gaunt, Gandavum, or Ghent, is esteemed to be the greatest City, not only of Flanders, but of all the Law-Countries, and challengeth a pace amongst the greatest in Europe; but at present it decreaseth and decays ra­ther than encreaseth. And if Charles the Fifth were now alive, he could not put Paris into his Gant, a greater Glove would not fit that City, which is so much increa­sed since his time. In Ghent are many noble Convents, among which the Jesuites is one of the fairest: There is a Cloister also of English Nuns. The Cathedral is stately, and the Tower belonging to it being very high, gives a prospect of a pleasant and fruitful Country round a­bout it. There are divers Piazza's, large and fair; in one of which stands a large gilded Statua of Charles the Fifth, Emperour and King of Spain, who was born in this City. The whole Town is generally well-built, and the Streets are fair and clean. The Inhabitants hereof have been taken notice of to be extreamly given to Se­dition, and for their sakes a great many other Cities in Europe are punished, and have in a manner totally lost their Liberties: For the Spaniards, to curb the Sediti­ous humour of the People of Ghent, were put upon the Invention of building Citadels in Cities, whereby a few Souldiers are able to suppress any Commotion, or beat down the Town, so that here I saw the first Citadel that was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth: It is not large, and the Bastions little, and though of a Regular Figure, yet not so convenient as those of latter days, since that Art hath been improved.

From Ghent we passed by water about Twenty Eng­lish miles to Bruges, a very elegant large City, and for­merly a place of very great Trade, being within three Leagues of the Sea; so that from the tops of their high­est [Page 177] Buildings, the Ships under Sail are visible, and at the same time a Fleet of Ships, and a large Territory of a fruitful, pleasant Country, cometh under your eye. It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches. The Convents are numerous: The artificial Cuts of Wa­ter from this Town to all places, maketh it of easie ac­cess; and though it hath no Port, the Passage from hence to Ostend by water is short: And they are at present up­on a Design of bringing Ships up to this City.

Ostend is about Ten English miles from Bruges, seated upon the waves of the German Ocean, which wash it continually on one side: And they have now contrived it so, as to let the Sea in almost round the Town for a great space, whereby it is become much more strong and de­fensible than before. For when I looked upon it, and considered what it was when it was besieged by Arch­duke Albertus, and taken by Marquiss Ambrosius Spino­la, 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years Siege, I cannot but ascribe very much unto their Sup­plies from England, and the obstinate Valour of the De­fendants, especially the English under Sir Francis Vere. Sluys being in the hands of the States of the United Pro­vinces, and Dunkirk under the French. The Spaniards possess no other Port in Flanders but this and Newport; and this being the most considerable, they are now ma­king the Haven large, and are upon a considerable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goeth from Ostend to Bruges, out of their Har­bour, by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of Water, which is to communicate with both; which, when it is finished, may be very advantageous to the Traffick. of the Spanish Netherlands. This Town stands very low, but the Streets are streight, large, and uniform

From hence I went all along upon the Sea-shoar to Newport, a handsome Town, with large fair Streets, but low built. There were then a great number of small Ships in the Harbour. This place is famous for the Bat­tel of Newport, fought here by Albertus, and Count Maurice, wherein the Spanish Forces lost the day, and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the Eng­lish under Sir Francis Vere; since which time, although there hath been much blood shed in these Quarters, yet there hath not been so considerable a Battel ever since, al­though the English had also the fortune to do great Ser­vice hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils, when a part of the Army of French and English, which besieged Dunkirk, fought with the Spanish Forces by New­port, and overthrew them.

From Newport we put to Sea, sailing out of the Har­bour, and intending for England; but the wind being ve­ry high and contrary, after having been at Sea all the night, and had leisure to take notice of the great number of Sands upon that Coast, in the morning we put into Mardike, where at present there is only a Fort of Wood just above the High-water mark, with some few Guns mounted. The other Fort, more into the Land, being demolished.

Dunkirk is much increased of late, and the King of France hath not spared mony to render it considerably strong. He hath very near finished a noble Citadel, begun by the English while this Town was in their possession, which hath the Sea on one side of it, the Haven on another, and the Sandhills towards the Land, which when the wind is at South-west, doth somewhat annoy it: To prevent which, the French have made divers Cuts and Chanels through the Sands, into which the Sea entring, doth moi­sten and fix the Sand, so as they are not so apt to fly. And [Page 179] every Bastion is sprucely kept and covered within with green Turf. Beyond the old Wall of the Town, there are now great Works drawn, which encompass so large a space of Ground, that the Town is made bigger by half: And in this part stands the English Nunnery, and many handsome Buildings. The new Fortifications are very large; and the Bastion towards the North the most stately, upon which the King of France entertained the Duke of Monmouth. The Port is large, and capable of receiving a great number of Ships, but at low water it is almost dry; and there are so many Sands before it, that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it.

From Dunkirk we travelled by Land to Graveling, where the Works are of Earth, large and high, the Church stately, the Streets broad, but the Houses low, and at present not populous.

From Graveling I came to Calais, from whence setting Sail in the morning, we came to Dover, and the same day to London.