AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE FROM ARCHANGEL IN RUSSIA, In the Year 1697. Of the Ship and Company Wintering near the North Cape in the Latitude of 71. Their Manner of Living, and what they Suffered by the Extream Cold. ALSO Remarkable Observations of the Climate, Country and Inhabitants. Together with A Chart, describing the place where they lay, Land in View, Soundings, &c.

By Tho. Allison, Commander of the Ship.

Published at the Request of the Russia Company; chief­ly for the benefit of those who sail that way, as well as for the satisfaction of the Curious, or any who are concerned in that Trade.

LONDON, Printed for D. Brown at the Black Swan and Bible without Temple-bar, and R. Parker at the Unicorn under the Royal Exchange. 1699

To the Honourable Sir Benjamin Ayloffe, GOVERNOUR, And to the Worshipful the Consuls and Assistants of the Russia Com­pany.

Honoured and Worthy Sirs,

YOu must not expect an Excuse for my Dedica­tion, when the Work was in Obedience to Your Command: and if I have fail­ed in the perfection of it, I hope my Good Intentions will be accepted, and my inability but lightly Taxed. [Page] I protest solemnly I never had any fond desire of appearing in print; but my main Ambi­tion is to do you Faithful Ser­vice; and I reckon this a part of it. And besides, the per­formance of your Business, and discharge of the Trust reposed in me, I think I ought to do the utmost in my Station or Calling, for the general good of Mankind, and the Benefit of Posterity. It may be said I was unfortunate in this Voyage, but not unsuccessful, in preserving the Cargo and returning with the Ship. And in reading it, I hope you will find, no wilful neglect, or [Page] want of skill was the oc­casion of what happend; since others at that time suffer'd the same with me, and some worse. And if by that means I have had opportunity of informing my self better of the Coast, and thereby of Instructing others, I shall not torment my self or repine at what I have suf­fered. We ought to acquiesce in every thing as by Divine Providence ordered; and ac­cording to that principle you seem to have acted, by your ready allowance of the da­mage I charged: which Kind and Honourable Dealing with me I must acknowledge to the [Page] world, and for ever record in my mind.

I find it very hard to for­bear falling into the just Com­mendation of your several Worths; but I know the Bluntness of a Seaman, does not suit with Haranguing: Besides, having set my Com­pass for saying nothing at this time, but what relates to the following Treatise; I must steer thereby, and keep stea­dy. I value your Excellen­cies, and Honour your Per­sons, and am in all duty,

Your most humble Servant, T. Allison.

THE BOOKSELLERS TO THE READER.

Reader,

FOr your greater satisfaction I am inclined, not only to vouch for the Author, and obviate what objections I imagin may be made against this brief account; but also to give my Opinion frankly, of Writings of this nature, and Voyages in general.

The Captain I know personally to be a man of Ingenuity and Skill in his Profession, and one of great Ve­racity: that he has been nicely care­ful not to mention the least matter positively, but what he knows [Page] to be truth. The greatest part of this account, he delivers from his own knowledge; and for what he says he was told, he was fully convinced of its reality, before he would make Report of it. 'Tis a most abomina­ble thing for any one to go abroad, and return with a pretended Journal, of surprizing Discoveries and strange Occurrences; and make a Linsey-Woolsey story, part Matter of Fact, and part devised: or perhaps the whole meer Romance or Fable. Mankind can reap no Improvement from such Relations; and Voyagers are but poor­ly assisted from such uncertain Dire­ctions, and sorry Informations. But some, perceiving how fond people are of tales, have put forth Travels patch'd together, and pick'd out of other Books; giving a new date to the Work and a new name to the Compiler; to gull the ignorant, and [Page] make a wise man mad. Whereas here can be no admittance of fallacy; for we tell you of what was done yester­day, the person and place, and cir­cumstances, if uncertain and false, easy to be detected.

And if every one that goes into a Foreign Land, would be punctual to [...]et down what he meets with there; be careful in observing what is rare or useful; curious in Draughts of Coasts or Harbours, and bring home with him specimens or particulars of Plants or Animals, or ought else, as the Production or Commodity of the place; our Observations, as well Topographical as Natural, might become more full and perfect, and true Learning upon a bet­ter foundation. The mind of man is pleased and enlarged, when inform­ed of the diversity of Countries and differences of Climes; and without [Page] exposing himself to the hardship o [...] Travel, he may be qualify'd to mak [...] due comparison between the Earth under the Line, and nearer the Pole Our bodily wants more readily supply'd by the Goods of one Country exchanged for those of another which is as much as to say, Com­merce encreased and enlivened, and Navigation rendred more easy and cheap and less dangerous. As to our Russia Trade in particular, considera­ble as it is, and so adjudged by the last Parliament, and the necessity of doubling the North Cape, in going and returning, and often at unsea­sonable times; what directions are here laid down? and what an use­ful discovery, for any that shall meet with the same disaster in time to come? I have heard the Captain himself say, that had he known how the Lands lay; what anchoring places [Page] were in the Fuel, as well when he got [...]ut, as when he was forced in, he [...]ould have made shift to have [...]ound the way out, dark as the sea­ [...]on was, in a few days after. And he [...]ad reason to think as well of his own understanding in this part of the world, as any one living, having made [...] great many Voyages thither, both [...]arly and late in the year. 'Tis true, all Maps lately have made the Cape an [...]sland, but very imperfectly delinea­ [...]ed the Inlets or Streights; and who knows not, but in time they may be found safe to be passed, when cross Winds forbid them going about.

But in looking further into this [...]ournal, I guess some one may not so well like, to read so often of Winds; so much of Frost and Snow; the dismal attendants of Winter. He thinks, that to say nothing in Com­pany, but 'tis a foul day, or very un­seasonable [Page] weather, is a sign of grea [...] want of matter of discourse. All thi [...] is granted to be a fault in time an [...] place, when Invention is at liberty and where we have plenty of Subject to talk upon. 'Tis one thing to kee [...] strict to a Diary, for the natural History of a Country, and anothe [...] thing with the liberty of a Poet to write a Shepherds Calendar. Ther [...] is no other way of giving any one the Idea of the Temperature of a Climate, than by remarking the weather daily, and the hourly changes of it.

Others may be mightily chagreen'd at the tedious entertainment of every days letting fall the Anchor, and heaving it up again; of hoisting and lowering their Yards and Top-Masts, &c. It might be no great diver­sion to those that did it, but it may be some to the Reader, if it does but [Page] raise his pity and compassion for 'em, under so much labour, and such slen­der refreshment; such uncomforta­ble dark work, with such muzzel'd hands almost without Fingers, and Limbs so benumm'd and feeble to perform it. Neither was it altogether necessary, or meerly impos'd by their Captain as exercise; but in order to their safety, and to keep themselves in a posture, suitable to their reviving hopes of getting away It cannot be omitted in relating their sufferings, and how they spent their time, as being part of the story.

Others again are strangely offend­ed at the perpetual mentioning of Dills. Periwinkles, Scallops, &c. and yet if these minute matters had not been set down, they would be ready to say, how did they go to work to live all the while? they ought to an­swer themselves, and to be satisfy'd; [Page] commend the vigilant Master, for providing so well for his House, in ordering to each his proportion, and so equally directing their services, for the preservation of the whole Family.

The same answer will serve for Wooding and Watering; their man­ner of doing and repeating it with such toil and hazard.

Perhaps a refin'd Linguist may be dis­gusted at so much Tarpawling expres­sion, and so many words not allow'd to be English. I shall first tell him, that this Watry Language, is brought upon Land to be shipt off again speedily; for the sake of such, who understand it readily, and have heard it in its proper place. And then I appeal to Gentlemen and Scho­lars: for persons of Candour and Learning will consider, that to go about to express this in other terms would make it all Paraphrase, and [Page] that wretched stiff and formal. Be­sides, the words themselves are ex­pressive enough and distinguishing, and what a Language need not be asham'd of They are what are found in other Books of the same subjects; and if they are not, 'tis pity they should not be received, or made a part of the English Tongue, by joyning them with others of com­mon use, and more known. For some ease to such, an explanation in the Margin has been added to a few, and if they will please to make en­quiry into the others, they will have the pleasure of becoming more knowing than before.

In a word, our Author has ex­actly observed the order of time, and successively mentioned the days, without so doing a Journal would be lame and defective. His abound­ing in minute Passages, and light [Page] Contingencies, was to make the Hi­story full and entertaining. His Maps and Descriptions are accura [...]e his observations as judicious and faithful as any of the same kind, and beyond what might be expected: but to give Reasons, or assign Causes for strange appearances, change of Wind and Weather, effects of cold, or what else betided him, is wholly left to you; and he pretends only to furnish you with Matter of Fact, upon which you may depend as true

ERRATA.

PAge 21. l. 12. add in the Height of Summer: p. 72. l. 19. r. as w [...] lay: p. 74. l. 14. r. the Wind Southerd: p. 108. l. 5. for Masts r▪ Matts: p. 109. l. 2. r. to his: p. 110. l. 2. r. and then to the: Ibid. l. 14. r. shifting between.

[...]
[...]

Calwick on the Cape

North Cape Island

Flemings Bay

Swetwell

Old Priest

A Scale of 20 degrees to one degree

AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE FROM ARCHANGEL IN RUSSIA, In the Year 1697.

I Sailed over the Bar of Archangel on the 8th of October, 1697. about four in the afternoon, in the Ship called the [...]n of Yarmouth, (Burthen 250 Tuns) [...]d bound for London; by that time [Page 2] it grew dark, I came to an Anchor, to g [...] all things fast for the Sea: The Win [...] South South East, close weather.

The 9th, (being Saturday) by the fir [...] light of the Morning I weighed Ancho [...] and made the best of my way; at 6 in th [...] Evening, I got the length of the Lan [...] of Cats-nose: the Wind S. S. E. fine weather.

The 10th, Sunday. At break of Day w [...] were the length of Cross Island; and just a [...] it was Dark, I got through the narrow thwart Cape Loganness: the Wind then a S. S. W. and good weather.

The 11 Monday. As soon as it was light I found my self even with the Island of Lambasco; and at 4 in the afternoon, the High Land of Swetnose bore South from us, distance 15 Miles; from whence I took my departure: The Wind was then at S. East handsom weather.

Tuesday the 12th proved very fair, and almost stark Calm; so that I made my way W. N. W. but 26 Miles, distant from the Place, whence I began my reckoning the [Page 3] day before, to the Noon-Tide of this: [...]hence forward being computed as part of day ensuing.

Wednesday the 13th, continued so Calm [...]ll the 24 hours, that I made my way North not above 13 miles. The Breezes we had, were at N. W. and W.

Thursday the 14th, began fair with some­what more Wind, first at N. N. E. after­ward at N. W. with * Squauls. My way was W. by N. dist. 40 miles.

Friday the 15th, The whole 24 hours the Wind kept shifting from N. and W. N. W. and in the night little; my way exceeded not 16 miles, N. W.

Saturday the 16th. For the first 12 Hours, the Wind continued to shift to and fro, be­tween the W. N. W. and the N. N. E. with uncertain weather. At 8 in the morning it came to the S. W. and began to blow hard; and we had a very great Sea out of the West.

Sunday the 17th. Till Midnight we had fre­quent Squauls, and in the Morning it began to blow from the S.W. so as to oblige us to tak [...] in two Reifs of our Topsails; and a grea [...] Sea came rowling out of the West. Notwith­standing I made my way good N. W. hal [...] West, dist. 69 miles. This day I had an observation, and found my self in the lati­tude of 70 degrees and 15 minutes.

Monday the 18th. Towards Night i [...] proved a sore Storm, but it came down gra­dually, first putting us past carrying ou [...] Topsails, then our Foresail; at length, being under a Main Course, by four in the Morn­ing, our Main Tack broke. Afterward [...] lay under a Mizen during the fret of Wind▪ till it was fair Day, and then I set my Mainsail. I made my way that 24 hours N. W. half West 50 miles: the Wind shifting from S. West.

Tuesday the 19th. At 2 in the After­noon the Wind came to S. E. by East, and held Calm all Night: by six in the Morn­ing it was East, still little Wind; but at ten we had such a Gale, that I was forced to hand our Foresail; and out of the N. W. came the fiercest of it, freezing hard with­all. [Page 5] Howbeit in the twenty four hours, I made my way W. N. W. 25 Miles.

Wednesday the 20th. It continued very [...]ad weather, the Wind at N. W; but at [...] in the Morning the Wind eased, and we [...]et our Foresail. Then it came to the N. [...]ad to N. E. and so to E. I made my way [...]. W. by W. 4 miles.

Thursday the 21st. By twelve at Noon [...]he Wind was at S. S. E. handsom weather; [...]t two I found it in the S. S. W. corner, with a Sky so fair and clear, that I plainly discerned Terry-berry, to the S. S. E. 18 miles off. All this 24 hours there came a great Sea out of the West; against which I made my way 42 miles.

Friday, the 22d, it continued a hard gale of wind at West, which put us under our Mainsail and Mizen, till two in the morning: Then the wind coming Norther­ly, I tacked and made way N. N. W. 10 miles.

Saturday, the 23d, at 8 in the morning I saw the North Kyne, distant 21 miles to the S. by W. and the wind being South, I [Page 6] made the best of my way to the West ward.

At ten it came to W. S. W. and pre­sently after to W. N. W. blowing so hard as to put me under 3 courses Reift, standing to the Northward till 12 at night. Then I tacked to the Westward, but the wind in 2 hours after came to N. W. by W. where­upon I tacked to the Northward again, un­der three Couses Reift; but at eight in the morning, I went about to the Westward, having made my way this 24 hours W. by N. 27 miles.

Sunday, 24. By 12 at Noon the wind was at N. by W. and N. N. W. but by 3 in the Afternoon it came to N. W. by N. with so much wind, that I durst not tack the Ship, for fear of losing our Main-sail, and yet I could carry none but that and a Mizen. So I charg'd a good looking out, deeming our selves near Land.

25th, Monday, at four in the morning, being Moon-light, we saw the Land of the North Cape, two points under our Lee­bow. Then we loosed the Fore-Sail, and stood to the Eastward, under Three Courses [Page 7] Reift: We likewise set our Main-Stay-Sail, but such was the stress of Wind, that it [...]mmediately flew out of the Bolt-rope. As soon as it was day, we plainly perceived we could not weather the Land of North Kyne. It continuing very squauly.

After I had well consider'd our conditi­on, I call'd my men together, and told them my Resolution; which was to run up the Wide * Fuel (that was then before us) while the day lasted: Reasoning with them, that to spend the day in Tacking before it, was to disable ourselves, and perhaps split our Sails; and when night came, to drive upon the Rocks, would be to the Hazard of our Lives, Ship, and Goods.

Thereupon, in hopes of more security under some Point, Island, &c. or in some Bay to Anchor, I put the Helm a weather, and ran for the Fuel; which, I judged, might be seven or eight miles wide.

Accordingly I hauled up my Fore-Sail, that I might see before me while the Squauls of Snow fell; which after they were past, I set again: Using all Diligence that could be, in search of some shelter from Land, or place of Anchorage.

At one in the Afternoon I discovered an Island which had a small Breach off it; but the men in the Tops, and on the Yards, said the opening next the Main was so large, that no security could be under it. Then I steered my course to the East side of the Fuel, (for the Island aforesaid lay on the West) and running up S. E. I saw some­thing like a Bay; but the Hills seemed so steep, that I was loath to shoot my self into it, for fear of having no Anchor Ground. For 'tis generally observed by us in such Countries, if the Hills be very high near the Water, there are commonly great depths at little distance. So that looking further a­head I espyed a shore, as I thought, with a handsome descent: and concluding such places more likely for my purpose, I set my Fore-top-sail and Main-sail. Then came a sore Squaul, which forced me to hand my Fore-top-sail, and haul up my Main-sail; but before the Squaul was over, I was got [Page 9] past that Bay: Yet then I saw another point, and our Water smoothed much. For that I made way, and ran close to it, still find­ing no ground with our Lead; but on the other side of the point went in a great Bay. With keeping the Lead, I came about the point, and found 25 fathom Water, soft Ground: then I let go my Anchor, and got my Skiff out, to carry a Haulfer ashore; which was no sooner done, but the Eddy Winds came off the Hills upon the point, and swung the Ships Stern somewhat too near the shore.

But the Squaul being over, the wind eased, and blowing more into the Bay, (which by it its looks promised well) I hove up my anchor, and drove further, into the depth of 40 fathom; letting it then drop again. By this time it grew dark; so we gave her a whole Cable, and rode in 16 fathom. Then after all things were stowed, and we thought our selves very well, and went to supper, I felt the Ship to rub on the ground. I im­mediately commanded the Lead to be heaved over the Poop, and found there was not a­bove two fathom Water. Then I caused two Fakes of the Cable to be taken in, and we rode with our Stern in 7 fathom [Page 10] Whereupon I got a small Anchor and Haulser into my Boat, and rowed into the flat Bay, in 16 fathom; by which means I heaved the Ship further into the depth afore­said, with very good ground. At the same time I ordered the Boat to sound round the Ship, and found the place where I rubb'd on the ground, to be a point of Rocks lying from the Main on the South side, but all o­ver the Bay else to be good Ground. So we lay all night.

26th, Tuesday, by day light I sent a Boat with a Mate, to see how things were about us; who reported that in the bottom of the Bay run in a good Harbour, and likewise that some Houses were in sight: but upon my re-sending the Boat, they were found without Inhabitants.

By that time these searches had been made, night came on. (Note that we ac­counted so much light to make day, as was sufficient to read by, or wherewith we were able to discern a Boat at half a miles di­stance. For though the Sun might be at that time about three degrees high upon the Meridian, we being under high Land, could not perceive his whole body.) The rest of [Page 11] our men on board were fitting the Ship, by mending the Rigging and Sails. The wind at North West, moderate weather, with some Snow. That night I was much trou­bled with consideration of the place where we lay: that if the Wind should come to the North East with any Gale, we might blow off the Bank, and then into more ha­zardous, because more unknown, places.

27th, Wednesday, at break of day, I got my best Bow-anchor aboard, and warped further into the Bay, where I Rid, having withal two Haulsers fastned to a Rock on shore. We continued to fit the Ship for the Sea, when it should please God to give us opportunity. The wind was yet Northerly, clear weather, so that we saw Land on the West side over against us, which we saw not the day of our first coming in, and I judged it might be eight miles off.

28th, Thursday, This day proved very bad weather, with much Snow, and the Wind shifting sometime at N. E. at N. and N. W. so that we could not but acknow­ledge the Providence of God, in directing us to move where we were: for had it not been done, we must have been blown from [Page 12] our former place. Then I went my self to search, and sounded the Bay and Harbour all over, and made what discovery I cou'd of things about us; finding a good watering place, and plenty of Wood near at hand, At my return, upon complaint of some of our mens embezeling and stealing our Bread, I ordered it to be locked up. For it began to look with little Hopes of getting out till the light Moon came. We got a Boats load of Wood, and one of Water, that night on Board; and began to consider further, as to our safety in that place, should the Wind Wester, and break our Haulser ashore.

29, Friday, at break of day, I went and sounded from my Bow-Anchor to the East­ern shore, and found 40 Fathom a little from it, still depthning towards the said shore. Whereupon arguing with my self, that after removal of the Ship further in, I might set sail, and come out out as easily, and yet in the mean time be secure in the worst weather; I removed farther into the Harbour, even to the place where we lay all Winter. This we had scarce done, and made our Ship fast, but it began to blow right in, and soon after it proved such a [Page 13] storm at N. W. that had we kept our late station, we had in all likelyhood been lost. Here again our men were made sensible of the Goodness of God towards us, by a fresh instance. Then having account that our Pease were unreasonably wasted, I or­dered a Barrel of them, with two great Bags of Bread of two hundred and a half each, to be brought up into the Round­house, with all small provisions, as Butter and Cheese and Fruit, to secure them there; and reduced our men to half Allowance, that we might have sufficient wherewith to go to Sea. For here we abode as Necessity drove us, and not with any Intent of Re­sidence as yet. I observed at this time the days to shorten exceedingly, being now not above seven hours, according to the ex­plained meaning of Day, in the Paragraph aforegoing.

30th, Saturday. I moored the Ship with two Bowers to the Offen, along the Bank; that is to say, one to the South East, and the other to the North West, and carried both the Kedge Anchor and Warp Anchor ashore, and placed them together, each with one Flook in the dry shore, burying them with Stones, for the better holding. [Page 14] To one of these my Kedge Haulser, to the other my Stream Cable was fastened, like­wise a new Towline to a great Stone; lying all as one, to the West South West. So between all these she swung by the Head. Take notice the Harbour was in fashion like an Oven, lying South East and North West, being a mile from the Mouth to the bottom and two Cables length, viz. 400 yards in Breadth or Wideness: and lying thus we shut the Ovens mouth; that is, we could not so lying, see into the wide Fuell. My best Bower lay in 21 fa­thom, and my small Bower in 19; the middle of the Harbour being of that depth, both upward and downward, but showl­ing toward either side, with good Clay ground.

It blew hard all day, with much Snow and some small Rain; so I spread a Sail over my main Deck, the weather being so sharp, there was no standing upon the same without it.

31. Sunday. It blew a Storm all day at North West, insomuch that we could not continue the Covering aforesaid, but were forced to take it down, and put the Sail together again.

[diagram of ship in harbor showing water depths (soundings) and shoreline with buildings, trees, and hills]

November 1. Monday. I sent all hands ashore to get firing; for the Snow encreas­ing, we feared our Wood would all be bu­ried under it. Our ordinary manner of Wooding was to go in the Long-boat, with 16 or 18 men to the shore upon which the Trees grew, almost from the Beach half way up the Hills. They were Birch mostly, with some small Trees like Willows; the biggest of either not exceeding a middling mans Thigh: and the appearance of them above the Snow, not above three yards We cut them as the depth of the Snow suf­fer'd us, some nearer, some further from the Root: for the plenty we had eased us from digging much. Besides, unless the Snow was newly fallen, the surface of it was so hard Crusted by the frost, as to bear: Notwithstanding some accidentally plunged in now and then, but recoverably. The dragging of the Trees thereby was no less easie, being upon a descent: and we lopped them near the shore, for convenient putting on board and stowage. We got that day a Long-boat full, that is, about a Cart-load, as I judged, or more,

[Page 16]2d, Tuesday, I got two Boats full of Wood more. Much Snow fell this day in Squauls, with hard blasts from the North West, till towards night.

3d, Wednesday, It being fair weather, I sent my Skiff with Hooks and Lines to take Fish; but in the Fuel they could find no ground with a hundred fathom of Line; yet they made, some tryal nearer the shore without perceiving any to bite. There were but four men employed in this Expe­dition, the rest went with the Long-boat a Wooding as before, but with greater toil and labour, occasion'd from light Snow fallen the former night. This night also added more, it freezing hard withal, and the Wind Northerly.

4th, Thursday, it proved fair over head, the Wind North East and moderate. This day we got a Boats Load of Water, consist­ing of four Hogsheads full: at the same time two of our men got up the tops of the Hills to the S.W. side, to see what they could discover; and brought word they had met with the prints of Deers Hoofs, producing a piece of an old Horn they had found, as a [Page 17] testi­mony. Likewise of Bears, Wolves, and Foxes: these three are easily distinguished; The Im­pression of the Bear being flat and long, and like that of a Humane Foot: those of Foxes and Wolves, are like Dogs, the latter big­ger. They saw small creatures too running and playing, which they believed were Foxes. The watering Crew also said they saw the steps of Deer, where they had been.

The 5th Friday. The wind was at South E. but with such a Storm, that we could not think of Loosing our Ship for the Sea. However I sent 6 men armed ashore, for discovery, or what they could get; but the Wind and Snow was so severe upon their Faces, that they could not proceed farther than the first Hill: so they returned and on­ [...]y reported, they saw a River on the East side of the Hill, that was frozen fast.

The 6th Saturday. I got a Boat load of Wood. It froze extream hard, the wind at N. E. turning to the N. W. towards night, and began to blow.

The 7th Sunday. It proved a fresh of wind at N. W. all day freezing hard.

The 8th Monday. It blew so hard at S. W. that it broke all our Shore Fasts, pulle [...] home our small Bow Anchor, and dro [...] the Ship on the N. E. shore, with her Ste [...] aground; but by good hap our best Bo [...] Anchor brought her up, and swung the Sh [...] into deep water. So we rode between of Bow Anchor; it proving moderate weath [...] towards midnight.

The 9th, Tuesday. I got my Anchor on boar [...] and moored the Ship in her old place, [...] laying the best Bower to the N. W. the She Anchor to the S. E. and Small Bower to t [...] N. E. and carried all Haulsers and Towlin [...] to the Anchors on the dry shore, to the V [...] S. W. of us. This we did as out of hopes [...] getting to Sea this light Moon; for our Rudd [...] Head was wrung in peices, by a blow g [...] ven against the ground the day before, an [...] somewhat damaged in the lower part. [...] then made the Ship as snug as I could, b [...] taking down our Mizen Top-mast, Crotche [...] Yard, and Spritsail Yard, with our Low Yard fore and aft: but our Sails we could not u [...] bend, being so hard frozen. The win [...] came N. W. which forwarded us in fas [...] ning our Ship and that was both our da [...] and nights work.

The 10th Wednesday. I got two Haul­ [...]ers more ashore, it blowing a hard Gale at S. E. till 10 at night. Then the wind al­ [...]ered and became fair. About this time the Hawks we had aboard all died, within few Hours one of another. We had likewise [...] Foxes to have been brought over, one of which our Men eat some days before un­ [...]nown to me; and this day they roasted [...]nother, which I saw, the flesh looking [...]lack like a Hare: but upon taste, I liked [...]o such rank Venison. The third ran [...]own into the Hold and could not be pre­ [...]ently found; but a mouth after having [...]laid the thief with a peice of our Beef, he [...]as knock'd on the head and being too can for food, was thrown over board.

The 11th Thursday. It Snowed much, [...]ut thawed as it fell; the Wind at N. W. with a strong Gale. I made all haste possi­ [...]ly to get our Rudder head mended, by [...]xing a piece of Plank on the one side of [...]t. It being bad weather, that was all we [...]ould do in a days space, which exceeded [...]ot 6 hours, and no better than Twilight. Neither could our men endure the Air at [...]uch Work, longer then a quarter of an [...]our, without coming in to warm them­ [...]lves.

The 12th Friday. I got another piec [...] of Plank on the other side of the Rudd [...] Head, it proving handsom weather and ver [...] clear; whereby we perceived something i [...] the lower part of the Rudder as broken but upon tryal with our Poles and Boa [...] hooks, found only a small piece of the he [...] bruised, with damage inconsiderable.

The 13th, Saturday. It proved fair, b [...] with some Snow. I took the Boat an [...] rowed into the Bay, on the other side of th [...] point, and at the bottom of it I found River running in, but so frozen as to hind [...] further discovery of it; but by soundin [...] the Entrance, we found 12 Foot water [...] half Tide. Going ashore on the North sid [...] I saw a great run of water falling into th [...] Bay thereby, near the shore along Woody Valley. Not far from this plac [...] I observed the Snow to lie in Ridge (such as we make upon Land, where we so [...] our Winter Corn,) its Surface being har [...] crusted with Ice, with something appearing above it like Straw. There were little mo [...] than the bare ears, without any grain in them four or five Inches long: so that thereb [...] I had hold enough with my hand, to pu [...] up the whole stalk, which was about 3 foo [...] in length.

I was under full belief that this was Barley, [...]at I cou'd not satisfie my self, that any had [...]en reaped off there, seeing the Snow co­ [...]ered the Stubble. To the unbelieving Rea­ [...]er I have only this to offer, to evince the [...]ossibility of it, viz. That the soil was [...]ood, as appeared by the plenty of Wood [...]ear it, the ouzy shore, and Clayey bottom [...]f the Bay; the place lying open to the [...]outh, and defended against the North [...]ast, by the Mountains. Withal it must be [...]onsidered, that the Sun is here about six weeks above the Horizon, and the days be­ [...]ore and after much longer than with us [...]n England at those times. That the bring­ [...]ng of this grain to perfection requires not [...]bove 14 weeks after Seed time, in more [...]outhern Regions. At Narva in Livonia, I my [...]elf have known the same Corn in the Ear, within a month or 5 weeks after it appear­ed above ground.

Hereabout I found an Anchoring place, but so steep that whoever uses it, must trust chiefly to the fasts he makes on shore. There was another also at the bottom of the Bay, a mile in; but the hasty depar­ [...]ure of Light made our Discovery incom­pleat. So we returned all of us on Board, [Page 22] miserably cold. I could not but observe that as we went and came by the Fuel th [...] Wind was at N. W. but where the Ship rode, our men on board had it all day Easterly.

The 14th, Sunday. It blew a hard storm a [...] N. W. pulling home our best Bow-Anchor, until such time as the small Bower and Haulsers ashore assisted; and then by all three she rode, till the Gale was over, which was not before nine at Night.

The 15th, Monday. The wind was at N. fair; and we hauled our Sheat Anchor farther into the Bay.

The 16th, Tuesday. We had a hard Gale at E. N. E. so that it pulled home our Sheat Anchor. There was much Snow all day and night; the wind after some time coming to the N. N. E. with somewhat more mo­derate weather. At this time two of our Company were mightily for fitting up a House upon Land, and putting provision therein for subsistance, in case we should be forced ashore, and wracked. But I could not comply with such advice; knowing the Ship to be warmer than any thing we could build ashore, with the Materials, [Page 23] Time and Light we had to do it. Withal I [...]agin'd, that if we had had a place to our [...]ish upon Terra Firma, I could not have [...]erswaded them to do what they did; but [...]hat the only way of preserving our selves [...]nd all we had about us, was by keeping it [...]ogether, and making the Ship the sole [...]lace of Retreat and Refuge. Besides, I ever [...]urred them up to action, expressing daily [...]he hopes I had of getting out; foreseeing [...]hat by their sitting altogether by the fire, [...]hey might grow diseased and unfit for ser­ [...]ice: on the contrary, that exercise, and the [...]xposing themselves to the air frequently, would render them more Hardy and Heal­ [...]hy.

17th, Wednesday. 'Twas handsome wea­ [...]her of Wind, and that at N. W. but with much Snow, yet we hauled out our Sheat Anchor again.

18th, Thursday. For wind as before. I began now to consider, that the Frost might render our Iron Anchors so brittle, as to make our Dependance on them not se­cure. Thereupon taking with me some men ashore with Iron Crows and Shovels, I endeavoured to break ground; which [Page 24] when I found possible, I ordered the Car­penter to cut a new Mizen-Mast I had on Board, not yet used. Of the biggest end I took twelve foot, and (after a hole of 7 foot deep had been digged, with no small Labour) I placed it, filling the hole with Earth, Stones, and Water, which being frozen, might the better fix it, as a post for a Cable to be fastned to. But that night I forbore using it; being not willing to shake it, before it was fully established. The little Light we had was not above 5 hours continuance.

The 19th, Friday. It blew strongly from the S. S. East, and held very clear. As soon as it was light I got my best Bow­er-Cable hauled up; I took also a peice of a Junck Cable about twenty Fathom long, and made it fast to the Stake above menti­oned (which stood off to the S. and by W.) and seased an Eye at the other end. Then I took one end of my best Bower Ca­ble, (the other being fast to the Anchor) and after I had made an Eye on that also, with two Louff-Tackles, I brought both as near as I could together, which was within 3 fathom, and seased them.

This I had scarce done, but there came down so much Wind at S. S. E. that we feared all would have been pulled to pieces: But every thing holding so well, our men could not but acknowledge the hand of Di­vine Providence in what had been done that day: For hereby we were preserved, not only then, but all the Winter.

20th Saturday. By the first light of our slender day, we perceived our Skiffe full of water at our Stern, which we hoisted on Board to mend again. You must note we could keep no Night Watch; our men not being able to walk the Deck half an hour for Cold.

I now made strict Enquiry into the quan­tity we had of Pease left, getting a Barrel out, and measuring them. Of these after­ward I delivered out 4 Quarts a day for all our Ships Company, being 24 men and Boys, and this I did four days in a week. I like­wise made search into our other pro­visions, and found we had 530 pieces of Beef, of four pound each. Of Fish we had but 6 days left; allowing four North-Sea Cods a day: nine days Flower and Cheese; allowing two pound of Cheese [Page 26] a day, for four men, with a Kettle of Hasty Pudding, for the whole Ships com­pany; that being the best way of using my Flower. Seeing now little hopes of getting home before March at the soonest, we con­sidered, that Store must be kept for the Sea, when it should please God to send us thi­ther; nor had we reasonable expectation of getting relief in this place.

21st Sunday. One of our Boys com­plained of his Feet being sore, our Chirur­geon immediately viewing them, found the effect of the Frost there up to his Ankles; especially one very dangerously: but by his Skill and Diligence, he recovered them in Ten Days.

22d Monday. It proving fair, we fetch­ed a Boat of Wood; great quantities of which we burnt every day. And here it will not be amiss to mention our manner of keeping Fire. I caused the Iron Hearth in the Fore-Castle to be brought into the Steerage, and ordered the Carpenter to make a Hearth as big as conveniently could stand in the Fore Castle; which was five foot nine inches square every way. Then I sent ashore for as much Clay, and as many [Page 27] Stones as filled it up: this was sufficient to accommodate sixteen men sitting close about it at once. Moreover, I directed the Cooper for making a Chimney to the Steerage, in the manner following, viz. by staving an empty Butt or Pipe, and reducing the staves at one end, to the breadth of two inches each, so that being Hoopt again, it exceed­ed not the wideness of a Firkin at the Top, keeping the former breadth or capa­city in the middle, still enlarging or stand­ing more open at the bottom. The di­stances or interstices there between the Staves, we filled with pieces of Wood, and made all tight with Clay and Stones; which when we had so finished, we placed upon the Grating. This made the Steerage very warm; but in all the time we kept Fire there, we were obliged to keep the door open for admittance of Wind, to give the Smoak vent.

About eight this night the Wind came to the S. S. E. with Snow and hard Frost; but at two in the Morning, there was clear good weather.

23d Tuesday. We had no foul weather, b [...]t so close, that we could scarce call that [Page 28] Light we had day. However we made shift to get a Boat of Wood, being in great fear of losing the day wholly.

At eight at night it blew from the S. S. E. but towards midnight the wind came more to the Eastward, with handsome wea­ther.

24th Wednesday. It proved fair and clear, the Wind Southerly. We cleared the Deck of Snow and Ice, which was grown a foot thick near the Scuppers. 'Twas sometimes squauly, but at eventide I saw the Northern Glance: That is, a stream of light enlightening all the He­misphere, so as one may read very well with it. 'Tis of a Pale-Yellow or Buff-Colour, like the Inmost Circle of the Rain-bow, appearing for a Quarter of an hour, then vanishing and renewing it self again, by intervals during the space of five or six hours. Sometimes this Meteor seems a bright nim­ble moving Cloud; at another time two of them, rushing and encountring one another, like Armies engaged: and now and then I have thought with a grumbling noise akin to Thunder. We reckon the Frost to occa­sion them, and whatever Reflects or E­mitts the light in that manner, can­not [Page 29] be far from the Eye, being so plainly to be discerned, and so exceeding swift.

25th Thursday. It being fair, I endea­voured to clear the Hawse, but there was so much Ice upon the Cables, I could not do it. This day two of my men went up the Hills, but wanted Light to make a dis­covery.

26th Friday. Still fair and clear, and by the Light we had, I brought my best Bower Cable, to the Stake on shore, and served it well with old Ropes, to prevent its cha­sing: the Wind at E. N. E. and freezing hard.

The 27th Saturday. It proved fair and Calm, with some little Snow. I got a boat­load of Water; and served all our Cables to prevent Chafing, both ashore and at the Hawse.

I had complaint made me, that some had stoln Fish and broiled it; but upon strict enquiry, I found such a thing could not be done privately: by reason our men sat con­stantly round the Hearth in the Fore-Castle, from 6 or 7 in the Morning till 8 at night; [Page 30] at which hour, or soon after, I ever caused the Fire to be put out, fearing the conti­nual keeping it might endanger the Ship, or occasion other Disorders. Nevertheless I caused the Fish that hung overboard for watering, to be hauled in, and viewing it well, by the manner of it, I judged that the pieces diminished, were not cut off with a Knife, bur rather seemed bitten by some living Creature; which I supposed might be a Seal, that I had seen sometimes about the Ship. So I put the Salt-fish into a Bag, and by a Line hung it over the Ship for freshning: And in the mean time I got a great Shark-hook, and baited it with a piece of the same; hanging it a foot under water, in a place where the Seal used to show himself. I stood upon the Watch; and just as it was dark, the Seal came and took it, making a bustling at the side of the Ship. I presently took hold of the Rope, to which it was fastned, and found it too heavy for me, which made me call for help; but before it came he got loose, and I saw him set his Feet to the Ships side, and fling himself off: After this we saw him no more in the Bay.

[Page]28th Sunday. It was still Calm, but with more Snow and close weather.

29th Monday. I hauled my Sheat-An­chor further out, the Wind at W. S. W. blowing fresh with Snow; but at 4 at night it began to Thaw considerably. I then shared all the Bread in the bread-Room, being but 5 pound and a half for each man.

30th Tuesday, It froze hard again, even our Beer between Decks; so that our Men could get nothing but water to drink, which had not stood above 12 hours, but became all Ice. I considered, that for them to drink warm water, might not be so good for their Stomachs, and to stave our Casks, would be of ill Consequence for us, when we should have occasion for them, at our going to Sea. I then brought up a Cask of my own Honey, of which I distributed a­bout 2 pound and a quarter to each Man, for them to boil in their Water, to make a kind of Mead withal. This they drank, and were not offended with the Ice in their Mouths as before. The Wind all this day at S. S. East, and the Frost so excessive, that we feared the Spring Heads would e're long [Page 32] fail us, so that we bestirred our selves for a Boat load of Water.

December the 1st Wednesday. It proved fair, which encouraged me to send my Mate in the Boat up the Fuel, even before it was light; chiefly to see if there were any An­choring places for us to make use of, in case we should put out, and not be able to re­gain our Harbour. He returned and brought word, that he saw only two Islands on the West side, and that the Fuel ran up a great way very wide, where they had much Wind: But where the Ship lay, we found little all day.

2d Thursday. 'Twas fair weather of Wind out of the S. East corner, but froze hard all day, with some Snow. You must know, our brightest time now at noon, ex­ceeded not the light that comes an hour be­fore Sun rise, in an Equinoctial day in En­gland.

3d Friday. The Wind as before, and pretty calm still, but freezing exceeding hard. Howbeit we went ashore for Wood, of which we got not above two thirds of a Boat full; so short was our day, and this [Page 33] especially so very close, that we could not [...]iscern the tops of the Hills, all that [...]ght.

The 4th, Saturday. The Wind kept at S. E. [...]ir, and freezing hard, but towards night [...]me Snow. It was light now but 3 hours [...]nd a half; as I observed by my Watch, which [...] my warm Pocket went well, and (to my [...]eat Comfort) kept its integrity in the worst [...] times.

The 5, Sunday. We had handsome weather [...] Wind with some Snow, and about 3 at [...]ght a small thaw.

The 6th, Monday. Being moderate weather, [...]ut close and freezing) we fetched a Boat [...] Water. All our men went ashore; some [...]ith Guns, and among them they shot a [...]hite Partridge, which was very good Meat; [...]e rest employed themselves in gathering [...]scles, Periwinkles, and Dills. These [...]lls are dark brown Weeds, growing and [...]nging upon the Rocks, and to be come [...] while low Water: a sort of Sea Plant or [...]rb, common enough in the North of En­ [...]nd, but more frequent in Scotland. There, [...]m told, they are eaten raw; but by boil­ing [Page 34] they become soft, and look greene tasting not much unlike a Colewort. O [...] way of dressing them, was first to boil th [...] in fresh water, which took away the Sal [...] ness natural to them; and after that boilin [...] them again in our Beef Broth, they su [...] plied the place of a Sallet, to eat with [...] Beef.

By some Scottish men on board, [...] were happily instructed in the use [...] these.

The 7th, Tuesday. It proved fair abo [...] head, the Wind S.S.E. but freezing very ha [...] We got some empty Cask from betwe [...] Decks to fill them, fearing more and mo [...] to depend upon the Springs. For our m [...] were lately at a great loss for them, a [...] found it difficult digging in the Ice. The way was, when they went for Water, t [...] observe the Drains upon the Shore, and [...] along the sunken or depressed places in t [...] Snow, which were formed from the Springs [...] the upper Grounds, joining in their Desce [...] and making Gutters, some with strea [...] large enough to turn a little Mill. Th [...] Channels were covered with Ice like a Ceili [...] under which the Water ran freely, but [...] [Page 35] come at it, they were forced to dig through [...]now, and break through Ice, to dip in their [...]owls and fill their Pails; which when full [...] carried to the Boat, where the Hog­ [...]ead stood with open heads to receive them. [...] notwithstanding they made all possible [...]ste aboard, and had not above a furlong [...]o Row, by that time they got to the Ship, [...]he Water would be covered with a pretty [...]hick Ice. The Pails too thereby, were so [...]rozen both within and without, as to weigh much more, and hold much less; [...]nd we were forced to thaw them conti­ [...]ally, for a new days service.

The 8th, Wednesday. We had it fair and [...]eat, with a small Thaw, the Wind We­ [...]erly. We filled some Water, and put it [...]own into the Hold.

The 9th, Thursday. We had very fair wea­ [...]er and so warm, as to make a considera­ [...]e Thaw: The Wind W. S. W.

The 10th, Friday. 'Twas fair over head, but [...]oze exceeding hard; we fetched a Boat [...]d of Water. Our Men thought it good [...]ews, when I told them this was the Short­ [...] Day, and now we should make our [Page 36] selves ready for the Sea, as fast as possib [...] we could. In order thereto, I gave my chi [...] Mate directions, for Rowing up the Fuel o [...] the morrow, to take a full view of the first B [...] we came by. This was matter of Enco [...] ragement to them, and kept them in action tho I did it with little hopes of sudd [...] Benefit thereby.

The 11, Saturday. It proving fair I sent t [...] Boat into the outermost Bay to view it, an [...] get acquainted with some place of shelte [...] that we might make use of, in case w [...] should not be able to regain the Harbour, [...] proceed at our first putting out. They r [...] turned and brought me word, there was [...] good Road within an Island that lay in t [...] Bay: which made me resolve, if the weath [...] held open, that we could work, to ma [...] out for the Sea by Moonlight.

The 12th, Sunday. Was a fair day, th [...] Wind at S. W.

The 13, Monday. It continuing fair weathe [...] we got up our Spritsail-Yard and Fore-Ya [...] cross again; filled a Boat Load of Wate [...] and got two Wouldens on our Rudder Hea [...] the Wind Easterly.

The 14th, Tuesday. So close all day, as to [...]e scarce good Twilight. A young Man in [...]ir Company took a Bible of a small print, to [...]y if he could read in it, but could not dis­ [...]rn [...]m his Letters at twelve at noon. How­ [...]er, I got up both my Top-Masts and Main [...]ard cross, hoised my Mizen yard, and [...]uled aboard one of my Haulsers: The [...]ind at W. S. W.

The 15th, Wednesday. We had as little light [...]is Day as the Day before, with uncertain [...]eather, sometimes blowing fresh and some­ [...]mes Calm; but the Scudd came very swift [...]t of the West S. W. all day: we got but [...]lf a Boat load of Wood. At 9 at night [...] blew a Storm at N. W. with much Snow, [...]hat we were forced to strike our Yards [...]nd Top-Masts, as fast as we could.

The 16th, Thursday. It continued blowing [...]ard at W.N.W. Snowing much, and freezing [...]t so extravagant a rate, that every thing [...]ecame Ice, that was capable of being made [...].

The 17th, Friday. It blew hard at S. S. E. [...]ith more Snow: and at 3 at night, or in [Page 38] the after part of the day (as you will plea [...] to call it,) it proved a storm out of the sam [...] point.

The 18, Saturday. The Wind was all Southerly, blowing hard, and freezing severely▪ but dry over head. Bad as it was, we fetched a Boat load of Wood, and some wer [...] ashore in the Skiff and got Periwinkles. 'Twa [...] strange how these little Creatures coul [...] live, and endure so much Frost: for as soo [...] as the Water was gone from them, the [...] would soon be covered with Ice, but th [...] returning Tide melted it. These we too off the Shore at low water, and brough [...] them on Board, where we boiled them i [...] the Shells, and picked out the Snail, or tha [...] part that was Meat.

The 19th, Sunday. It blew hard at S.S.W▪ with much Snow and hard Frost.

The 20th, Monday. It blew desperately har [...] at N. E. with much Snow and severe Frost Our day at this time was not 4 hours and [...] half long.

The 21st, Tuesday. In the Morning the Wind was at N. W. at Noon all Northerly; a [...] [Page 39] night N. E. with little Snow but continued [...]ost. About this time I observed the [...]cooping or Emptying of the Boat, was a [...]hing of too great Labour for the Boys to [...]o; so I ordered the Men to take their [...]urns. This was very grievous to them; [...] in a nights time it would be half full [...]f Snow, and the Water in the bottom fro­ [...]en pretty thick: so that they must first [...]hrow out the Snow, then break a hole in [...]he Ice, and by that scoop out the Water, [...]nd at last take away the Ice with Shovels. The Stem of the Boat too, would in that time be covered four or five Inches thick with Ice, and about the edge of the Water also; which we were forced to break off with Mauls, or Wooden Beetles. During this, our people suffered so exceedingly, as to come aboard with their Limbs almost stiff with Cold, and their Hair so frozen, as to hang with large Icycles, in the fashion of great Taggs.

The 22d, Wednesday. Close Snowy wea­ther all day, and the Wind Westerly; but by that time it was quite dark, it came to the N. E. blowing fresh. Here I think it proper to set down my Constant Observati­on of the Sky towards the North Pole, [Page 40] which I had made daily for four weeks la [...] past: viz. That even during that time o [...] Light we called Day, it continued alway [...] black, as if it were a dark Cloud forerunning a Squaul. It reached from N. W. [...] N. E. in the form of a Rain-bow, the Art [...] elevated fifteen or twenty Degrees. Whic [...] made me conclude, that something farthe [...] to the North, there must be a continua [...] night all that while.

The 23d, Thursday. The morning wa [...] fair, but by noon the air was thick with Snow. I got a Boat load of Water, and some Wood; and gave every man two pound and a quarter of Honey, to make drink against Christmas. I find no notice of Wind taken this day, and likewise of some few before; but I am assured it was too dark to think of stirring: we could not see to eat our meat at noon without Candles, of which we consumed plenty, bringing about 500 weight from Russia: for though we kept two Lamps burning day and night, we yet used Candles upon frequent and moving occasions.

The 24th, Friday. It proved fair and clear, the Frost not excessive; so that we [Page 41] cleaned our Decks from Snow and Ice. The Wind was Northerly all day, but to­wards night it came to the East. Our men being very melancholy, to think of their Friends at home providing good chear, I told them they should not pinch on the day following; and accordingly ordered every Mess should have full allowance. This put an end to that kind of discourse, and they seemed pleased with the expectati­on of such a Feast; but thought not of * Hauling Sharp for it afterward.

The 25th, Saturday. Being Christmas day, in the former part of the day we had good weather, the Wind at S. W.; but for the latter part it blowed and snowed. Af­ter Dinner, I spared out of my own store, to every two men, a Bottle of Strong Beer, which they took thankfully, and made their hearts truly glad. About six at night, as I was walking upon the Deck, I observed it so bright for a quarter of an hour, that we had it no lighter for some days at Noon▪ since our being here. This must be from some Northern Glance; the more remarka­ble then, as unusual in close weather.

The 26th, Sunday. It proved indifferent fair, with small Snow like rain; that is, be­coming drops of water, upon its a lighting or falling upon the Deck: the Wind at S. W.

The 27th, Monday. I fetched a Boat of Water, the weather being fair and calm. This day I took up a Hogshead of the Mer­chants Honey, and shared it equally, giving each man his part, to make Mead as for­merly.

The 28th, Tuesday. The last night was warm, and a small Thaw we had: the day held fair, and the night ensuing continued Calm.

The 29th, Wednesday. Still over head fair enough, but it froze again excessive hard: The Wind at N. E. The day now was 5 hours long, and at Noon time we saw it was perfect day.

The 30th, Thursday. It blew hard at W. S. W. with some Snow. I sent the long Boat a Wooding, and 3 hands in the Skiff for Water; and the latter I ac­companied, in order to visit the inside [Page 43] of those Houses, that were just by us, which our men discovered soon after our coming into this Bay or Cove. Here were dwelling Houses for 3 Families, as near as I could guess, each having another for Cattle adjoyning, and one for drying of Fish, which was open like a Cage, with Poles lying across. I carried things with me, for clearing the way to the Doors from Snow; and approaching them, I found the dwelling Houses were built above 5 foot from the Ground, and 12 foot broad, in form round. The Walls were made of Stones, and Moss between them, instead of Morter, and Roofed with the same, by the help of Rafters or Split Trees, their lower ends resting upon the wall, and their upper joining at the top against a hollow Stone, which served both for Chimney and Win­dow. And for a Hearth there was a flat Stone, laid somewhat above the Ground; and on one side a Cabbin, big enough for two people to lye in, with some Straw in it there left, which I guessed was all their bedding. In one of them I found a Barrel of Rye Meal, but so bad as not to be used for Food. We met there with a piece of a Printed Book, with a form of Prayer therein, of the Danish Language; as one of our Men told us, who [Page 44] understood it, being by Birth of that Nation. In the Houses for Cattle were Stalls and Par­titions (of Sticks crossing one another as Hurdles are made,) such as are in Gentle­mens Stables to part their Stone-Horses; with Boards too at the Bottom. They were so small, as to contain nothing bigger than Sheep or Goats; the latter being more frequent in the Neighbouring Countries: The doors of these Folds or Houses, were not above 3 foot and a half high, and 2 in breadth; they were half full of Snow, so that no dung could be observed. To one house was an inclosure like a yard, with a Pond of Water, but frozen. Likewise there was a place discernable, where they hauled their Boat upon Land, when they had been a Fishing.

The 31st, Friday. In the Morning it blew hard at S. W. but the latter part of the day was very warm, and it fell a Raining, and thawed very much. This made us wish for a Light Moon, to be going with.

January the 1st, Saturday. It blew hard at West, but warm to admiration, so as to make a very great Thaw: even the tops of several small Hills, that laid under the [Page 45] higher ones, became bare, and clear of Snow. Withal a great deal of Snow, that lay upon many parts of the Ship, was melted off. At the same time came a great Sea into the Bay where we lay, breaking very high at the Harbours mouth; but towards night the Wind was at W. N. W.

The 2d, Sunday. The Wind was at S. W. blowing hard. It continued still thawing all this 24 hours.

The 3d, Monday. We had a warm, fair, and dry day, with little Wind, and that at S. W. This was the first day we could open any Sail, since we came in here: so we opened our Mainsail to Air it, and found no harm done to it, notwithstanding it had continued so long furled up, which we greatly feared before. We got a Boat of Water too.

The 4th, Tuesday. Still fair over Head, and moderate as to Wind, which was at the S. S. W. but the Frost had made its Re­turn. I sent the Boat into the Fuel, to see if they could take any Fish; but they got none. One Hogshead of Water more they got filled, and put between Decks.

The 5th, Wednesday. It blew fresh Nor­therly, with some small Snow, and froze hard again. I sent my Men a Wooding, where they could not but observe, what al­teration the late open weather had made upon the Trees, disposing them to flourish, by moistening their Bark, and opening their Budds considerably; which the returning cold had nipt again. Likewise upon the Hills that were bare by the Thaw, they found plenty of Green Juniper, of which they gathered, and brought on board a great many Branches. Withal they peeled off the Ten­der Bark of the Willow-like Tree, and bound it up in several Bundles, to hang near the Fire and dry, for an intended use. This over and above their Load of Wood, which they made good.

The 6th, Thursday. 'Twas very fair over head, but blowing pretty hard at S. S. W. the Frost too encreasing. Yet they made shift to get a Boat of Wood, with more Juniper, and quantity of Bark as before.

The 7th, Friday. It proved very bad weather, the Wind high at N. W. and much Snow again. This days confinement gave [Page 47] our people leisure, to advance a new project, and make tryal of what they had got to supply the want of Tobacco; with which, had they been sufficiently stockt, it would have been a great Relief to them, and a choice entertainment. For my own part, I had just enough to allow my self 3 or 4 Pipes in a day, and could not find in my heart to spare any to my best Friend▪ Though it could not but greive my Spirit to see one Smoaking instead of it, meer Rags of Fustian torn from a Coat-pocket. But this was before they found out the use of something more like it, being parts of dryed Plants: I mean the tops of Juniper before­mentioned, and the Willow Bark dryed. These they now began to shred small with a Knife, and mix together in proportions according to each mans fancy, and to fill their Pipes therewith. All that take To­bacco know these have no agreement with the other, as to virtue and effects; nor yield the like pleasure or benefit: But the Smoak I am sure was not ungrateful, and possibly not unwholesom, both for the ta­kers and Company; and in my opinion, it was no mean Invention, in such extream ne­cessity.

The 8th, Saturday. The weather as bad as the day before, both of Wind and Snow, and freezing hard. However, we cleared our Decks of Snow and Ice, and stowed what Wood we could spare out of the Fore­castle and Steerage, to make fit for the Sea, having hopes that it would please God to give us opportunity, by this light Moon.

The 9th, Sunday. The night past was very stormy, blowing hard still in the Morning at S. S. E. with excessive Frost and some Snow: but towards noon the weather mended in all respects.

The 10th, Monday. We had a Storm but of the N. W. violent and furious, and I think with the most Wind that ever I ob­served in my Life, though I have used the Sea these 38 years. It Snowed very hard withal, and froze at a great rate, insomuch, that the forepart of the Ship, by the dashing of the water against her, and the mounting of the Foam by the Tempest, had nothing but what was covered with Ice.

The 11th, Tuesday. It continued blow­ing hard at N. W. with Snow and hard [Page 49] Frost. The night past we lost 13 pieces of [...]eef, as they hung a watering, which at [...]hat time was a great mortification to us. For [...]ur way was to put our Beef into a Wicker- [...]amper, and hang it by a Rope at the Ships [...]de two foot under water; now the Rope [...]athering a Quantity of Ice, and the ex­ [...]essive Wind giving the Ship some Motion, [...] was thereby chafed asunder, and the Beef [...]t drop. It is to be observed; that we [...]ould not freshen our Meat after the man­ [...]er usual at Sea, by putting the same into [...] Tub of Sea-water; for that would have [...]een all Ice in a few hours, and the flesh [...]ill as hard and salt as before: the Wicker- [...]amper too, was to preserve it from Vora­ [...]ious Fishes, as the Seal before spoken of.

The 12th, Wednesday. It blew fresh at [...]. S. W. and froze smartly. We got our Warp Anchor and two Haulsers on board, [...]nd made four pair of Graplines or Creep­ [...]rs, with which we went to try if we could [...]lank the Hamper, and recover the Beef we [...]ost two nights before; but we were not so [...]ucky as to light upon it.

But my Mate in holding the Line, while [...]e was creeping or searching for the Hamper, [Page 50] got the Frost in his Fingers, insomuch tha [...] the next day morning, he found Blisters risen upon them and his Thumbs, as if they had been scalded. And after the water wa [...] let out by opening them, his hands were so raw, as to make him uncapable of going a [...] wooding.

The 13th, Thursday. The Wind was a S. E. and moderate enough, but the cold a [...] rigorous as at any time before, and this day with a considerable Rime Frost. Howe­ver, we got a Boat load of Wood; bu [...] when our Men came aboard, they com­plained much of the Frost being got into their Feet and Hands; some only blistered others turned black, and without feeling Our Chirurgeon opened the Blisters, and by Fomentations and other applications, he recovered them; and where it was turned black, he cut off the dead and senseless part, and healed them after some time [...] wherein he manifested himself to have a good understanding in his business, by the success he had; seeing none had any los [...] of an entire part or joint, but purely of what Flesh or Skin was mortify'd before he saw it: and they all became serviceable by that time I got home, or soon after. In justice [Page 51] and gratitude I am obliged to mention his name; WILLIAM BROWN of Great Yarmouth, and educated there under his Fa­ther of the same profession.

The 14th, Friday. Fair and clear wea­ther we had, but it froze so vehemently, that I durst not let any man go out of the Ship, or do any work that day: Cherishing [...]nd giving rest to the disabled, and reserving the sound.

The 15th, Saturday. Still clear as the day before, but freezing exceeding hard: [...]he Wind in the morning at N. E. but at [...]ight S. E. with a violent storm. At noon [...]e reckoned the Sun made his first bodily [...]ppearance, in our part of the world, for the [...]ear ensuing: The day 8 hours and a half [...]ng.

The 16th, Sunday. It blew hard at N. W. in the morning; at noon the Wind [...]as at N. N. East, and freezing; but not [...]o hard as before.

The 17th, Monday. We had much wind [...]t N. VV. with some Snow; the Frost too [...]e look'd upon as less vehement than for­merly.

The 18th, Tuesday. The morning was blustering and cloudy; the Wind at N. VV▪ At noon it cleared, and we saw the Sun­beams gilding the tops of several Hills, to our great joy and comfort: For we had no [...] seen Sun-shine before in ten weeks. Afte [...] noon the Wind came to the N. E. fine wea­ther: We got a boat load of wood, and two Hogsheads of water. The latter wa [...] difficult to come at, the Springs being al [...] frozen up, only the run of the great Spring, we found gliding under the full Sea [...] mark.

The 19th, Wednesday. It was calm and good weather; I caused the Decks and Scuppers to be cleared of Ice and Snow: In doing which, we were forced to heat Crow [...] of Iron red hot, and so by degrees mel [...] a way through the Scupper-holes, and fre [...] them from Ice. And with the same Instru­ments and Axes, cut through and raise up the Ice upon the Decks, and to heave ove [...] board. Notwithstanding it froze extream hard at this time, yet we had warm hope [...] of getting to Sea; the Wind being at S. E.

The 20th, Thursday. The Wind was at W. S. W. and moderate: neither was it so cold as the day before; freezing no harder than it does in a hard Frost in England. We hauled the Ship about twice, to clear the Hawse: and in the afternoon went and got Periwinkles, Muscles and Dills.

The 21st, Friday. It blew hard at W. N W. but was very warm, so as to cause a small thaw. We got a Boat load of Wood, and another of Water; and at the Edge of the shore, our men saw Eggs, one of which they pulled upon Land, with a long bent stick, and brought it on board. These are likewise called Sea-Urchins, ha­ving somewhat growing upon the Shells like Thorns, or the Bristles upon the Land Hedge-hog. The shape is round and flattish, the shell thin, and the Bristles easily rub off: For a further description, I must refer the Reader to Authors, that treat of such things. 'Twas good news for me to hear of them, knowing what benefit they might be to us; and therefore I caused a piece of Iron Hoop to be fixed to the end of a Pole, and made a Net like a Fishermans Lead-net, against the next day.

The 22d, Saturday. The Wind was at West S. W. the weather fair too, and in­different warm. We first cleared the Deck of the Wood brought in the day before, and stowed it down into the Hold, for a Sea store. Afterward some went ashore with the Pole and Net aforesaid, and got store of Eggs: while others went a Gun­ning, who shot only a small Fowl calle [...] [...] Greenland Pidgeon. I do not remember [...]or the first two months and more after I came in here, I ever saw any but two Birds or Fowls flying, and they were two Crows of a Dun [...] colour, not different from ours so called; and by some Royston-Crows. These flew often near the Ship, and at length were so tame, as to light upon our Deck: one of which our men shot, poor and lean as he was, and nothing but Skin, Bone and Fea­thers. But before I came away I saw seve­ral of the Greenland Doves aforesaid, and Fowls like what we call Kitties, pick up things at low water, which I guessed might be Periwinkles, and Sea Eggs especially▪ For one day, (though I have not set it down punctually, I bear it well in mind,) I went my self ashore, and a furlong up the Hills, I found the Shells of Sea Eggs, which [Page 55] I judged might have been carryed up by such Birds. They are special good Food, and [...] doubt not but the Birds suck out all their [...]nwards, though we eat only the yellow [...]art like an Eggs yolk, and throw away the other white or jelly part. That we take [...]nd put into a Sauce-pan, and pour to it some Beef Broth, which with a little Pep­per strewed upon it, and stewed together, makes a very good Dish.

The 23d, Sunday. We had it fair and clear all day, the Wind Southerly, and the Frost very moderate.

The 24th, Monday. Still fair and clear, the Wind Southerly. We got our Kedge Anchor on Board, but much trouble had we to come at it. We were forced to dig through a great deal of Ice, and the ground it self frozen deep, under which one flook had been long buryed. We shifted one of our small Haulsers too, at the stake where the Cable was fast: got both our Top-masts up, hoisted our Mizen-yard, and got our Fore-yards up, with an intent to be jog­ging; but before night, it began to blow at S. S. W.

The 25th, Tuesday. It blew very hard, in­somuch that I was forced to strike both Top­masts, and lower all down again. Besides, it froze extreamly hard all this 24 hours. Thus were we fatally baulked, and our de­sign of stirring put a stop to, when we had Provision enough left, to go to Sea with; I can't say without great hazard of want, and danger of weather, could we have held on our purpose.

The 26th, Wednesday. It continued still blowing, and the Wind all Southerly, so that at certain times, when the blasts came violently off the Hills, notwithstanding the Hawse was very foul and thick frozen, yet the Cable would be pulled stark out of the Water. The Haulser too at the stake on shore, having a great weight of Ice upon it, would nevertheless be stiff-strained above the Water, as level as that of a Rope-dan­cer, when it is made fit to walk upon. It being to admiration, that the Stake, Cable and Haulsers should hold.

The 27th, Thursday. The Wind and weather still the same as the day before; blowing fiercely, but clear over head, and freezing at a great rate.

The 28th, Friday. The Wind kept its place, but grew more moderate; the Frost still excessive: However I got a boat load of water, and another of wood.

The 29th, Saturday. It blew smartly out of the South, and froze so extraordinary hard, that the water we brought on board the day before, was a solid Body of Ice. For having occasion to Brew that morning, (it being late before the water came on board over night) I caused one of the Hog­sheads to be digged into, to see if any wa­ter could be found in the Cask; and in the midst there might be the quantity of about two Gallons lying in a hole of the depth of 14 inches, and 3 inches width: of that I made Mead, which proved excellent good, and some of the very same, I brought with me to England.

The 30th, Sunday. It blew a hard Gale at S. by E. freezing withal; but not so hard as two days before.

The 31st, Monday. We had as much Wind as the day before, and from the same point; but dry overhead, and freezing to [Page 58] extremity. There was a Hogshead that stood an end upon the Deck, full of Water with its head open, which froze gradually downward, so as to force the bottom out, and raise the Cask three inches from the place it stood on: and became a whole Co­lumn or Solid Body of Ice. Another at the same time that laid along with its Bung open, froze in the like manner, bursting open the undermost staff upon which it rested. I leave to the Reader to assign the natural reason of this, only taking along with him this remark; that it lay upon a pretty thick Ice that covered the Deck. How long they had been both filled I can­not say punctually: the first might be one of them brought on Board the Friday be­fore; the other possibly have lain longer, as designed for a Sea store. This brings into consideration the daily toil our Cook had, with an Iron Crow to break asunder Lumps of Ice to put into the Pot. In doing which he was obliged to arm his Hands with Furr Gloves and Mittens; otherwise the Iron would have cleaved to his Fingers and carryed the Skin along with it. The same Cloathing or defence our men constantly used, not only abroad in Wooding and Watering, but also in their work aboard, [Page 59] as handling the Ropes, or whatever else they touched or moved. Over and above, when they went in the Boat upon frequent expeditions, whether for carrying out, or weighing of Anchors, or going ashore for the many purposes before-cited, they put on their Russia-Boots, which were wide like those worn by Fishermen, and lined with Bears-skin. These they were all fur­nished with, but two or three, who were glad to supply the want of them, by tying old pieces of Canvas about their Legs, and over their Feet.

February the first, Tuesday. It continued still blowing hard at S. by E. clear withal; and about noon we saw the Sun shine into the mouth of the Harbour. He might shew the whole of his face, but little of his power; for it froze so excessively this day, that the Ice hung upon the Ship in some places full two foot thick, and at the edge of the Water it was of a great breadth. So that the Ship having a small motion, made such a noise, that the night before we could not sleep for it. To prevent which, we hauled the Long-boat about the sides, and with two great Beetles or Mauls broke it off: and sometimes a piece [Page 60] of half a Tun weight would drop at once.

The 2d, Wednesday. It blew hard at South, with clear weather, but froze so very hard, that now all the Cables were past handling; which mightily discouraged us, and almost stifled all thoughts of go­ing. To mention all the Discourses our people had at times, and upon several oc­currences, would fill a bigger Volume; and a great many more I had set down, had it not been so great a trouble to write. 'Twas vexatious enough to get my Ink ready for use, and no less to keep it so; a Boy being forced to thaw it, as oft as I had occasion to dip my Pen.

The 3d, Thursday. All the night past stormy, and the Wind Southerly, but it froze not so hard as the day before; we got a Boat load of Wood, and another of Water. As moderate as the weather was for cold, possibly on such a day, we might get the Water on board in the Hogsheads, with little or no Ice on the sur­face of it; but after standing half an hour upon Deck, we should have it thick enough to bear an empty Pipe. This was a warm day [Page 61] comparatively, I say, and cherished our dying hopes of getting from this place; and towards night we got up our Fore Top-Masts, Fore Yard and Mizen Yard, to be in a readiness for the Sea.

The 4th, Friday. In the morning it blew a hard storm at South, so that I was compelled once more to strike our Yards and Top-masts: But towards night the Wind eased, and we got our Stream Cable on board; leaving a piece of twenty fa­thom behind us, so deep buried under the Ice on shore, as not to be got out.

The 5th, Saturday. The day began with fine weather, the Wind at S. S. W. Our men discovered Scallop-shells near the Ship, but they lay in deep water. I caused a broad flat piece of Iron to be bent like a Dredge to fish for Oysters with, and ordered a Bag to be made to it of Rope Yarn: and that night we went a dragging, and got sixteen Scallops, which were very good Victu­als. I brought home with me some of these, and several other Shells, of which I carelessly disposed of, or lost the most part: But when I waited upon that ingeni­ous and worthy person Mr James Petiver, [Page 62] Apothecary in Aldersgate-street, and Fellow of the Royal Society, to present him with those few I had remaining; from them and others he shewed me, I remembred they were almost all of such kinds as are found about England. And by him I was further informed, that the general English names I had given to them were not impro­per: More distinctly he told me they were Periwinkles, Wilks, Scarborough Couvins, Limpets, Muscles, Cockles, Sea Eggs, &c. Oyster-shells too I saw here and there, but not one whole, with the Inwards or Meat in it. I left with him likewise a piece or two of Coral, got when we dragged for these Shell Animals; having saved greater variety of the same, which an unlucky Boy threw over-board. Moreover, some Slate­like Stones; and these I observed there of various colours, which when we held a­gainst the Grindstone, tinged the water (it turned in) strongly of the same colour. And in some Colour-shops where I exposed them here in London, they concluded them fit for Painters use, and of good value. So that this wretched Country was not desti­tute of all Humane Food or Commodity: and had I been there in a season when the Snow was gone, much more might have [Page 63] been observed; or even then, had I made it more my business to discover what was odd or rare. Towards night the Wind came to the N. N. W. blowing hard and snowing.

The 6th, Sunday. It proved fair and clear, till three in the afternoon; then the Wind shifted from the N. W. to South, and began to blow and overcast.

The 7th, Monday. It blew hard in the morning at N. N. West, and from thence the Wind shifted to W. S. W. I took now into further consideration the quantity of provision I had left, and finding not above 203 pieces of Beef, and Pease proportiona­ble; and seeing no likelihood of getting any other relief while we stay'd here, than what we had met with, I put my men to streighter allowance, viz. six men to a piece of Beef a day, and a pint of Pease for four men. And to prevent all discontent and murmuring, I kept my self, as I had done all along, upon the level with them; giving them leave to take the first piece in choice, and I the second for my own Mess. Withal, I encouraged them daily to get what provision of sustenance they could [Page 64] from shore: having finished our Dragg, and fixed two Nets for catching Sea Eggs, of which we got this day three Bushels. These were the means of tempering, as well as sparing our Salt-flesh, which we should have more need of at Sea, where we should be bereaved of the helps this Harbour af­forded us. Alas! Had we had but store of proper and cherishing food, our sufferings from the cold would have been easily born, by so many hardy and lusty men as I had then on board, with the plenty of firing we met with. Nay, had I been so lucky as to have brought, what I usually did in former Voyages, quantities of Russia Hams and Neats-Tongues, they would have af­forded great support under such woful di­stresses. But to heighten the misfortune, I was basely disappointed at my coming a­way, of a thousand weight of Stock-fish, which I had agreed for, to take with me as Ship-provision. Strong Russia-Beer too, (not to mention High Wines and Brandy) had been comfortable drinks in cold days; as I found by that little I had in Bottles, which I kept buried up in Straw, and preserved mostly from the frost there­by; howbeit now and then the Boy fetch­ing a Bottle, would bring the neck in one [Page 65] hand, and the bottom in the other, with­ [...]ut spilling any: perhaps one of the upper­ [...]ost, and not well cover'd. And I cannot [...]orget, what I have more than once taken [...]otice of, that a Bottle of Beer standing be­ [...]ind us, while we sat before the Fire, would [...]ontract Ice in the time we were drinking [...].

The 8th, Tuesday. The weather was fair [...]nd something warmer, the Wind being at [...]he S. W. I got my Sheat-Anchor and best [...]ower on board, and made all clear for the [...]a: Riding only by our small Bower, and [...]ne Cable ashore. In the Evening our [...]en dragged, and used their Nets, getting [...]me Scallops and 2 Bushels of Eggs; to our [...]reat Relief. This day we first pumped the [...]hip, having in her about nine Inches of Water; neither had we occasion to do it af­ [...]rward: which was a happiness, by reason [...]e could not have kept our Pumps clear, [...]ithout a good supply of hot water; be­ [...]des the doing it often would have fatigued [...]ur Men.

The 9th, Wednesday. In the morning it [...]ew a stout of Wind, at W. by N. with [...]ow; but at noon the Wind was at W. S. [Page 66] W. with Squauls of Snow. We got a Bo [...] of Wood and Water; and carryed a Sha [...] of Lines with 20 Hooks, out into the F [...] and left them all night, to see if we co [...] take any Fish therewith.

The 10th, Thursday. We had fair we [...] ther in the morning, and little Wind; so [...] fetched on board our Lines, with the Ba [...] entire, and no Fish. Before noon it blew [...] storm out of the West, with abundance [...] Snow, which obliged me to let go my b [...] Bower under Foot: It continued to blo [...] till midnight, and then the Wind eased.

The 11th, Friday. In the morning [...] was fair, and the Wind Southerly: Towar [...] noon it fell a Snowing, and blew very ha [...] at S. S. W. in the evening it froze smart [...] with abatement of Wind; inducing me [...] heave up my best Bow-Anchor again; b [...] a great Snow followed, and bad weather [...] night.

The 12th, Saturday. It continued blo [...] ing very hard at West, with much Sno [...] in Squauls; so I was forc't to let drop [...] Sheat-Anchor under foot. We had tw [...] [Page 67] Cats on board, whose lives we endeavoured [...] preserve by giving them fresh Meat of [...]a Eggs and Muscles, &c. but they grew [...]eaker as the cold continued, and died of [...]e cold, starved; one now, and the other [...] week after, even at our feet, and before [...]e Fire.

The 13th, Sunday. It continued blow­ [...]g very hard, the Wind at W N. W. and [...]. W. with much Snow, and violent Gusts [...] Wind.

The 14th, Monday. We had not so much [...]ind on this, as the last 2 days, yet 'twas far [...]ough from being Calm. I heaved up my [...]eat-Anchor and brought it on Board; got a [...]at load of Wood, and another of Water.

The 15th, Tuesday. The good weather [...] the morning, invited our men ashore to [...]ther Periwinkles and Dills; but by 10 a [...]ock it began to blow a storm at N. W. [...] W. so that they could scarce get aboard [...]in. At three in the Afternoon, one of [...]t men departed this Life. He was under 30 [...]rs of age, and taken first sick at Archangel, [...] a distemper like an Ague, continuing ill [...]r since we came away from thence, and [Page 68] declining till this time. Neither can it b [...] said he died of the cold meerly, such as d [...] so (as I have been told) going off Sleeping [...] whereas he expired gradually and sensibly as I have seen others breathing their last could we have got home in good time, h [...] might possibly have recovered. The cont [...] nuance of the Storm, made us let fall ou [...] best Bow-Anchor.

The 16th, Wednesday. The morning w [...] fair; so we heaved up our Sheat-Ancho [...] and buried our deceased Man at low wate [...] mark. For higher up on the dry shore, th [...] Ground was so hard frozen, that we coul [...] not dig it. We got a Boat of Wood an [...] Water, and put the Dead mans Cloaths [...] Sale at the Mast; as our Custom is at Se [...] in the like case. In the Evening the Win [...] came to the South, blowing and freezin [...] extraordinary hard, with Squauls of Sno [...] Afterwards it shifted to N. N. E. continuit [...] stormy all night.

The 17th, Thursday. It grew Calm [...] towards the morning, but it Snowed muc [...] and froze very hard all day; the Wi [...] continuing at N. N. East till midnight, a [...] then came to the West; and in the morni [...] following to N. N. W.

The 18th, Friday. The weather mode­rate enough as to Wind, but Snowing and Freezing so prodigiously, that our men who went ashore to get Periwinkles and Dills, were forced aboard in a short time, being not able to endure the weather abroad: and some of them were so benummed with the Cold, as to be uncapable of helping themselves to climb the Ships side; so that others were forced to help, or hand them up. But soon after they got aboard, they recovered; the Ship being hot like a Stove, compared with the open Air. I remember for several days I could not bear the sharpness of the Air, walking upon the Dcck, but was glad to clap my Handkerchief, double over my Mouth and Nose, for a defence. You must know that for these four Months past, since we came in here, we suffered our Beards to grow at length for warmness; which would be often full of Icycles, from our Breath congealed, after the exposing our selves for a little while upon Deck: but approaching the fire they came off easily, whereas to have pulled them before, had been to bring hair and all.

The 19th, Saturday. We had little Wind this day, and that at N. W. but much Snow, [Page 70] and Frost so excessive, that it was impossi­ble for a man to look to Windward. In the mornings, after such bitter nights as we had at this time, the Glass Windows of my Round-house where I lay, would have Ice upon them, of the thickness of a Crown piece; so that we were forced to scrape it off with a Knife to let in the Light. The great Cabbin Windows we kept shut up, with boards nailed without; as well for the pre­servation of them against weather, as warmth, for the ten men I lodged there con­stantly. The Round-house I reserved to my self, though much colder; but I kept that in regard to the Provision I had stowed therein. And to make known to them, that I had shared the sufferings with 'em, I shew'd them my Bed, which was frozem to the Boards on each side, that I durst not allow the Boy to stir it, for fear of Tearing, thus for 5 months I left it, and went to it morning and night, not pulling off my Cloaths, save for shift­ing; only putting on my Furr-Gown at my arising, and plucking it off when I laid down, to throw over me, together with the Rugs and Blankets. And long since, find­ing the Inconveniency of going from the Fire in the Steerage, where I resided by day, to my Lodging at Night, by reason of the [Page 71] Snow, that laid upon the Quarter Deck, I ordered the Carpenter to Caulk up the Round-house door; so I made my passage by a Scuttle or Sally Port down into the great Cabbin, and by that means observed the order they kept below me. As I lay in my Bed, I could distinguish and tell every Nail in the Ceiling or elsewhere, either head or point, having a piece of Ice like E­namel upon it. I suppose from my moist breath condensed and froze. My Books too that stood upon a shelf over my Head, had upon their edges and corners the same orna­ment; a sight I cannot say, whether more pleasant or dismal.

The 20th, Sunday. 'Twas Calm, with much Snow falling, and continued Frost; notwithstanding I got up our Fore-yard and Mizen-yard in the Evening, in hopes of an East Wind: but by night, it came to West, continuing fair.

The 21st, Monday. This morning was calm and fair, after a serene and sharp freez­ing night; so that we could not but observe the surface of the water in the Bay about us, to be covered with a hard Scum or thin Ice; which made us fear being lockt up: But [Page 72] immediately the Wind arising at West broke it all away. We got a Hogshead of Water, and knockt off the Ice round the Ship, at the edge of the Water; and in the Evening our men went ashore, for recruiting their fresh Provision: and towards night it blew so hard, that I was forced to lower our yards down again.

The 22d, Tuesday. The day began with good weather enough as to Wind, only we had some Squauls of Snow; it froze too, but very moderately. We got a Boat of Wood; and our men going up the Hill a great height a Wooding, saw the Body of the Sun; reporting it when they came aboard with great Joy. And indeed it was a sight for them to rejoyce at, having never seen it since they came into this Har­bour. For it must be considered, we lay low in the Water, that we had less Light for that reason; yet was the want of that compensated, by a more benign Tem­perature of the Air as to cold, than we should have found upon any part of the shore. For I am perswaded, that no House we might have made there, could with the same manner of warming it, that we made use of in the Ship, have preserved us so well. Besides a coldness perhaps from the [Page 73] Earth it self; I am sure a small height in the Atmosphere, makes a sensible Variation as to heat and cold in the same place: Not to offer at any Reason, but our men found it so by daily experience, when they made but small ascents in Wooding and Watering. And the Mountains, or greater Hills which lay about us, being, as near as I could guess, above three hundred Fathom higher than the surface of the water in the Bay, seemed to have endured the utmost force of the Frost; having Crowns or Caps of Ice; three or four Fathom thick in some places, and over-hanging like a Pent-house or Precipice, with a horrid prospect at distance.

We took 2 turns off the Hawse, cleaned the Ships Deck of Snow and Ice, and clear­ed the Scuppers. At midnight it began to blow a storm at S. W. but towards morn­ing the Wind came to the N. W. by W. the Storm continuing: so that I was forced to let fall my Sheat-Anchor.

The 23d, Wednesday. The Wind held hard at W. N. W. with much Snow; about 10 in the Forenoon, the Wind came to N. E. by N. continuing to Snow. At noon we heaved up our Sheat-Anchor, the Wind [Page 74] easing; but the evening it came more out of the Bay. This day, as I was walking upon the Deck, came a Fox upon a small Hill over against the Ship, and stood a while looking upon us; but soon ran away, at a little noise we made.

The 24th, Thursday. We had the Wind at S. E. in the morning, with a gentle Gale, but freezing extraordinary hard: Howbeit we got a Boat of Water, and cleared our Decks from Snow and Ice. At noon the Sun shew'd itself upon our Masts: I got my Fore-Top-Mast up, with my Mizen-Yard and Fore-Yard; and towards night the Wind South­erd. I then made a strict Survey of all our Provision, shifting it out of one Cask into another, that I might be certain how much there was; and found but 154 pieces of Beef on board. I gave to each of our men a pound and a quarter of Honey, for the use so often mentioned before. Some of them had been ashore this afternoon, to get Dills and Periwinkles; but the weather was too cold to be endured, and they were forced to return aboard presently.

The 25th, Friday. By break of Day, the Wind being Easterly, I got all my Yards [Page 75] and Top-Masts up, and the men went ashore to cast off the Cable; with a full Resolu­tion for Sea: But before they could clear the Ice, and come to cast it off, the Wind came to S. W. and W. S. W. beginning to blow and Snow. Before night I was forced to strike both my Top-Masts, and lower all down again snug: and at 10 the Storm was so furious, that our Men were contented to to abide here, notwithstanding their late earnestness to be going, acknowledging it a mercy from heaven to be detained.

The 26th, Saturday. The Wind was grown moderate by the Morning, and at noon 'twas quite Calm; we took two turns off our Hawse: and in the afternoon got a Boat load of Wood: the Skiff too went a dragging, geting but 15 Scallops. This mild Day gave us opportunity to observe, that the Sluces or Drains of Water, that fell into the Bay, were so considerable, as to make a small motion toward the Sea at low Water.

It is to be noted, we had no River run­ning into this Harbour, or any which we call back-waters, but the fore-mentioned drains; all of them not being sufficient to [Page 76] supply a Current. It flowed South West a [...] a full and New Moon, rising and falling a [...] Nep-Tides about eight foot, and at Spring [...] Tides about twelve or fourteen. How i [...] was in the Fuel, we can give no positiv [...] account, but by my observation, upon som [...] points the Tide did seem to move indifferently strong; for when I was out with the Boat, I perceived some Riplings; and our men in searching, fell in with pretty strong Tides, but could not inform me di­stinctly. Above all things I well remember, the old Finnish People, when they came aboard our Ship, told me there was never a Rock or dangerous Shoal in the whole Fuel. And I have taken care to have the Depth of wa­ter and anchoring places marked in the Char [...] faithfully, according to the several Disco­veries made by me and my Mate, and the distances of places computed with the best of my Judgment: To which I refer the Rea­der. Towards night the Wlnd Souther'd, blowing and freezing hard.

The 27th, Sunday. We had a small Snow falling all day, but so very mild withal, that it melted as it fell, and that likewise that which laid before upon the Ship; and toward night it turned to rain wrth the Wind at S. W.

The 28th, Monday. The morning was Stormy, the Wind at West, so that I was necessitated to let go my Sheat-Anchor; but toward noon the Wind eased, and I heaved it up again. I called all my Com­pany together, and told them, that the time had spent so much of our Provision, that we could not venture to Sea, with what we had remaining, where we should be be­reaved of all the little comforts and helps we had from the Shore. And therefore while we had any thing left, we must go and make search for people, whereby to get Provision, to carry us out of this place, and to our much desired homes.

That since Almighty God had wonder­fully preserved us till this time, when the weather was grown more moderate, and the days of a brave length; we ought not only to express our Thanks in words, to that Being of all Goodness, for our preservation past, but to be active and industrious for the future, shewing our selves thereby more rea­sonable Creatures.

And finding such discourse to have some effect upon them, I ordered the Long-Boat to be immediately hoised in and Cawked, [Page 78] and other things done, that might be for the safety and conveniency of the men in her. It proved a fair day and thawed, whereby we got one side Graved in a few hours, fitted her Sails, and put many things in readiness.

March the 1st, Tuesday. The month and day began with fair weather; and after we had made an end of trimming the Long-Boat and got her out, we went all hands ashore, to get what we could for the Belly: and towards night got our Yards and Top-Masts up, resolving to keep in a moving po­sture.

The 2d, Wednesday. It began to blow hard at W. S. W. and so came to S. a violent Storm; insomuch, that we were forced to strike both Yards and Top-Mast down again: but towards night the Wind eased, and it froze at an excessive rate. This day the Sun shined on board the Ship over the Hills; it being the first time of my seeing the same since I came in here, being 17 weeks. Note, that though the Sun at this time did not remain above the Horizon, quite so long as it does in England, and its Meridian Altitude but little, yet their day was even as long, considering the more [Page 79] early day-break, and the more lasting twilight in the evening. And who knows not, that upon the 10th of this Month, the days and nights are equal all the World over?

The 3d, Thursday. It proved a very fair day, with much Sun-shine and little Wind; we had not seen the like before in this place. This put such Life in our Men, that they got up our Top-Masts at once, and loosed the Sails for drying them; they having con­tinued still folded up now for some time; and according to our expectation they were found well: here being no fear of their get­ting heat to rot them. In the afternoon our Men went ashore to get Dills and Periwin­kles, some dragged in the Long-Boat and got Scallops, and others in the Skiff with their Nets, made good purchase of Sea Eggs. When night came on, I could not but observe our people as busy, as they are usually in a Cooks Shop about the Exchange of London, between the Hours of Twelve and Two: only with this difference, that every man was there both Guest and Ser­vant. This with a Kettle, that a Sauce-pan, and the other a Dish or Platter; some dres­sings Dills, some Scallops, Muscles, and Peri­winkles, and others boiling Sea-eggs in [Page 80] Broath; and some were brewing of Mead: so that at both Hearths, there were scarce room enough for one to get in between to light a Pipe. I can't say of Tobacco, for there was none but what I had; what the men smoak'd for such, they took as much pains to prepare, as to Cook a dish of Meat.

The 4th, Friday. In the morning the Wind was at West South West, a strong Gale, with clear weather, but at Noon it snowed: However, we got a Boat load of Wood. Toward night fell little Wind, and that at North North West.

The 5th, Saturday. It proved a hard storm Southerly, so that I was forced to strike our Yards and Top-Masts, and let fall our Sheat-Anchor; it freezing very hard all day, with clear Weather over head.

The 6th, Sunday. We heaved up our Sheat-Anchor again, the day beginning with little Wind, and continued handsome Wea­ther till eight at night, when the Wind came to South South West, and it fell a Snowing.

The 7th, Monday. It blew hard in the [...]orning at W. S. West, and a great Sea [...]me tumbling in, which obliged us to let [...]ll our Anchor again. At noon it abated, [...]nd came more Westerly; at 8 at night we [...]nd a Storm at N. N. West, but blowing [...]y and indifferent warm.

The 8th, Tuesday. The day broke with [...]tle Wind, but that running from E. to S. [...]d S. W. and to W. S. W, and then a fresh [...]le, but dry and warm. We got a load of [...]ood, and filled a Cask of Mead, for the [...]en that were to go in the Boat. At this [...]ne I found all of our men complaining of [...]ins in their Bones, which my Chirur­ [...]on did conclude, were the effects of the [...]ost in their Limbs; generally remarkable [...]on the abatement of the weather: which [...] found true, observing upon the return of [...]tream Frost, we were without Ailment, [...] upon a Thaw, we felt the same pains [...]in. The like indisposition I experienced my self, at such times.

The 9th, Wednesday. The fairness and [...]mness of the weather gave us opportunity getting two turns off our Hawse, heaving our Sheat-Anchor, drying our Top-Sails, [Page 82] and fetching three Hogsheads of Wate [...] ▪ We likewise fixed a Fire-hearth in our Lon [...] Boat, which we made two days before, an [...] fitted a Sail to spread over the same, if the should be forced to lye in her; and got a [...] things ready to set her forth at half a hours warning. The Wind came to S. West, the Sky looking Squauly, but prove very fair.

The 10th, Thursday. We had goe weather in the Morning, and a Souther [...] Wind; I caused all my Men but four, (wh [...] were sick or unsound,) to cast Lots wh [...] should go in the Boat, and they fell to [...] as able as I could have picked out: Ho [...] beit, two of them bought it off with [...] others, for ten Shillings each, to be pa [...] them, when they should receive their [...] spective wages, at the end of the Voyag [...] My Mates drew by themselves, and the L [...] fell to my Second Mate; a man fit enoug [...] for the business. I immediately sent the away with Money, Linnen-Cloath, a [...] other things, which I judged might be [...] for Traffick with the Inhabitants, if th [...] should find any.

Towards Noon the Wind came Westerly, [...]ith much Snow, withal Freezing hard, [...]t handsome weather of Wind: and at [...]ght at night it came to the N. N. West, [...]d brought back our Boat again, having [...]ade little discovery.

The 11th, Friday. The Wind was [...]utherly, and the Morning fair; so I sent [...]e Long-Boat away again on her former [...]rand. With those I had on board, I got Skiff of Wood; I mean the soundest of [...]em, for the rest had the Frost in their [...]et or Hands. The Wind continued in the [...]ne Quarter all the Afternoon, but at night [...]w very hard.

The 12th, Saturday. It blew hard at S. E. and froze sharply all day.

The 13th, Sunday. It blew fresh at S. by [...]st all day, but dry over Head, with a [...]d Frost.

The 14th, Monday. The weather was [...]ry uncertain, sometimes Squauly, now [...]h Wind and then fair and clear. While was so, all that were on board and able, [Page 84] went ashore, gathering Dills and Periwin­kles, and such as they could get for th [...] Belly.

The 15th, Tuesday. In the morning i [...] proved fair and clear, so that some of ou [...] Folks went ashore to seek for Provision, an [...] others continued in the Skiff, dragging fo [...] Shell-fish. Those upon Land happene [...] to espy two Boats coming into the Bay, an [...] rowing towards the Ship. They present [...] imagined 'em to be some of their Com [...]pany sent out 4 days before, and fell [...] Hollowing to their Fellows in the Skiff which so affrighted the people in the Boat that they immediately turned about an [...] made away. And though I called to th [...] Skiff with all speed to come aboard, an [...] sent a man to the point to see for the [...] yet such haste they made, as to be out [...] sight before he came. Soon after some [...] them appeared upon the point, and cont [...]nued looking upon the Ship a good whi [...] In the mean time I sent a man up one [...] the Hills, to discover which way th [...] went, but he returned without being ab [...] to give any Account of them. So we lost th [...] opportunity of Commerce with them, w [...] then if they had not been unluckily sca [...] [Page 85] by noise, would doubtless have come on board us of their own accord: for the Ship lay, in a manner, between them and our men in the Skiff and ashore; and I guessed they were wholly taken up with the sight of the Ship, where by my order we lay silent and hid: and for the future I commanded every one to be so, upon the like occasion. These people, we suppose, were coming to take their Summer Habitation, in the Houses we described before: for to me it seemed, as if there were Cattle and Children in the Boat, but I could not, by all the Enquiry I made, of those whom I saw afterwards, learn who they were, or whether I guest aright of their intentions. In the Afternoon it blew fresh at S. S. E. However we filled 3 Hog­sheads of water.

The 16th, Wednesday. All the Fore­noon was calm and fair, which our men spent, in dragging for Scallops and Sea-Eggs, and gathering Dills and Periwinkles, at low Water.

At noon I took Boat and rowed out to a Hill, lying at the Mouth of the Harbour, and went up it as high as I durst venture, to look about the Fuel. And S. of us I [Page 86] thought I saw several Islands, but could not discern the bottom of the Fuel, which ran in very far and wide.

The 17th, Thursday. It continued fair, and our Men went ashore a Wooding, but had not been gone above two hours before they discovered a Yaul coming towards the Ship; and according to the order given be­fore, we let 'em come aboard us very silently, expecting it was one of the Boats we saw two days before. But it proved to be a Yaul that came from the North Cape, with four of our own men in her, and one Finlander; sent by my Mate to satisfie me, how things stood there with the Long-Boat. And indeed it was high time to release me from the fears I was in about them. He sent in her a Barrel of Beef, a Barrel of Rye-Meal, 40 pound of Oatmeal, 80 pound of Stock-fish, with other Provisions of Flesh, viz. Mutton, Pork, and Venison, all dryed; and a small Cask of Beer. They likewise brought us the news of a Peace concluded between England, the rest of the Confede­rates, and France: and gave me the fol­lowing account of what hapened to them, from the time of their departure. After we had sailed to the other side of the Fuel, [Page 87] we got sight of a little Yaul, and gave her chace, having the Wind of her, and it blowing fresh. They made for the shore, and just as they landed we fell in with them. There were but three men in the Boat, who got out and run for it upon the Snow, two of which our men could in no wise overtake, but the other they caught: He was an old man, and they were his Sons. Our Crew treated him civilly, and having two Danish men born, in the Company, they fell to dis­course him, and soon settled a right under­standing between one another; that he im­mediately called the young men, that stood a loof off to see what would become of their Father. They readily obeyed, and parlying with them altogether, our men offered them two Dollars, if they would conduct us to a Priests House, or some Town, where we might get Provision for Money or Goods. So they came to an agreement; the old man and one of his Sons forthwith stepping into our Boat. But we having a brisk Gale, in towing the Yaul after us, pulled her Stem in pieces, and so were forced to cast her off; the old man bidding his Son that was in her, to go ashore, and directed us to keep on our [Page 88] way. This we did till we came to the outermost point, where we went ashore, finding there some Houses, and about four Families; the Hamlet or Village being called by name of Swetwel. In this place we took up our Lodging all night, and the day following being stormy, we durst not put to Sea. All this time we received kind entertainment from the In­habitants, and our Company likewise were as free of what they had to them. The day after being Sunday we parted from thence, and with all speed made for the Town of Colwitch upon the Cape, where we arrived by two in the After­noon, the people being at Church. Af­ter Sermon they came all and made much of us, hearing our story, and admired that we were able to live on Board, in so extraordinary hard Winter: for so it was accounted with them. They seemed very kind to us, till the Minister and the Mer­chant fell out, about selling our Pro­vision. For one said it belonged to him, and the other as much; but between them both, we were furnished at their own rates, being glad to get it any way. It hap­pened at this time, there was one from the Governor of Ward-house, who came to [Page 89] look after the Salvage of a Dutch Fly-boat, that was lost in the same Storm, that drove us in, &c. and from him they had the good news of the Peace.

That night I dispatched away the same Boat again (which was a Yaul belonging to some of the Town, of whom our peo­ple had hired it for four Dollars) and sent her to the same place upon the Cape, with more Goods and Money for purchasing more Provision; with order for my own Long-Boat to return on Board, with all con­venient speed. Yet as I understood after­ward, they were in great danger of being lost; had not one of the Inhabitants coming along with them, and knowing the Coasts well, happily directed them to a place of safety, during the Storm they met with.

The 18th, Friday. In the morning it blew a Storm at S. S. E. but towards noon it abated, yet Snowing much till 5 in the Af­ternon; becoming then fair and clear, with little Wind, and that shifting to W. S. W.

The 19th, Saturday. We got a Boats loading of Wood, it continuing Calm, and [Page 90] fair till 5 in the Afternoon; from which time it Snowed till 8 at night: But all the while moderate as to Wind.

The 20th, Sunday. In the morning came a Yaul from the Ministers House, that lived fifteen miles from us, towards the North Kyne; and in her a Clerk or Secre­tary of the Governors, that resides at Ward­house. This person was the same that our Men before had told me of, who came now on purpose to see me, after he had crossed over the Fuel, to make his return; his way being then all over Land, and that upon the Snow. He told me, that he boggled nei­ther at Mountain or Valley, but could go in 14 hours time 16 Danish Miles, which make 64 of ours. And accordingly shewed me how he was fitted for such a Journey, having with him a Leathern Canoa, in the fashion of a Weavers Shuttle, only turned up more at the ends. This was carried in his Boat, when he went by Water, but at Land it served as a Sledge does in Holland when the Rivers are frozen; having 3 Iron Keels at the bottom, and being drawn by a Rain Deer. It had a co­vering like a Deck, with a hole in the mid­dle, coming close about his waste: So that [Page 91] with a Furr Coat over the upper part of his Body, and other Cloathing beneath, he was well provided against the worst of wea­ther. In his hand he carried a Paddle, or small Oar to keep him from overturning. In the way are no Inns, but he makes his nights Lodging at some Ministers House, where he still finds free quarter.

He informed me of two Dutch Ships that were forced into the Harbour of Ward-house, by the same Storm that forced me in, where I then lay: that he supposed they were now going to Sea; their men having laid on board in order thereto 3 days before he came from thence. I thought that might very well be, considering the great advantage they had of me, being at the principal Town of the whole Country, even where the Governor himself lived; where they could want for little, but had good Danish Houses, with Stoves in them, to keep them warm. And one thing this Gentle­man told me, too considerable to omit; namely, That from Ward-house aforesaid, there went a Post to Copenhagen every fort­night. So that if any Ship be forc't in there or thereabouts by stress of weather, find­ing a Ministers House, they may send to [Page 92] the Town, and from thence to any part of Europe.

In this Boat came the Ministers Son, who brought both dry and new Fish, and pretty store; with several presents from his Fa­ther, as a Calf new killed, with Cheese and Milk for my Men: also dryed Mutton, and Hams of Bacon, Venison and Par­tridge.

The 21st, Monday. It blew fresh at S all day; notwithstanding there came a Finnish Boat on board me, and brought me store of Fish and dryed Mutton, with a small parcel of fresh Butter and Cheese. I bought all they had but some Venison and Partridge, which at their going away they presented me with; I giving them in gra­tuity such as I had; viz. a few Raisins, (a great rarity with them,) and some Mead. Their Venison was lean and horridly black, but the Partridges were dainty, being fresh killed and fat.

The 22d, Tuesday. It proved a Storm; the Wind all Southerly, withal freezing ex­ceeding hard; but dry over head.

The 23d, Wednesday. It was so fair and calm, that we cleared our Hawse. This day came another Boat on board, and brought us Fish of several kinds, both dry and wet, viz. Cod, Ling, and Turbut; some Butter and Cheese, with dry'd Flesh of the sorts aforesaid. Note, that this Meat was not salted, but prepared thus for keeping, by being hung up in their Chimneys. It had little of goodness or nourishment, and scarce appeared to swell by boyling. But I took all they had, in truck for Cloath, and Cloaths made up; and some I bought with Money. The Boat they came in, was of the fashion of a Norway-Yaul, big enough for six Rowers, and so many they had: but some others had but four, being less; and like­wise there were for two only. The people are low of stature, of Limbs well set, fresh colour'd in the Face, though of a dirty hue, and an ill smell attending them. But whether it is from their lying in their Cloaths, or their natural savour, perhaps derived from their constant Diet upon Fish, I could not determine with my self. Their hair is generally light coloured and lank, cut like the Danes: They wear their Beards of a full growth, young and old: Their Ha­bit [Page 94] too is like the Norwegians, viz. Close Breeches, short Coats, both made of course Cloath, with Caps of the same furred. Their Shoes are pulled up half way on their Legs like Boots, with Toes turning up like the tip of a Half Moon painted, and furred within. One thing peculiar in this peoples Garb I observed, and that was, they every one carried a small Powder-Horn, hanging under their Chins, by a string about their Necks. For what use or purpose I could not learn, tho I asked them as well as I could, but could not explain their Answers; for my Dane that remained on board, was then as I thought, almost at the point of death; that is, so weak, as not to do the work of an Interpreter. The Governour's man too, could not speak Dutch enough to be intelligible to me, when I enquired into the same thing three days before, though I understood he was a German born.

The 24th, Thursday. It proved fair, the Wind at South West; we got a Boat of Wood. Toward night it wester'd, and a­bout 8 our Long-Boat returned on board, and brought with them a Barrel of Beef, a Barrel of Rye-Meal, and 3 hundred weight [Page 95] of Stock-fish, with other Provisions which we wanted; namely, some dry'd Mutton and Pork, and some Bread also, with But­ter and Cheese, to our great comfort; we being therewith sufficiently stored for the Sea. And from them I took this following re­lation; That the Town of Colwitch and the Cape consisted of about 14 Houses, with as many Families, and one Church. The Houses are built after the Norway fashion, of Wood, with Stoves placed in the mid­dle, or so as to warm the Rooms, without the sight of Fire; they being a kind of Ovens, and are heated after the same man­ner. Their Houses have Windows of Glass, but with Wooden Shutters, both in­ward and outward, which they make close in the Winter, by stopping or caulking them with Moss. So they keep up several weeks, in the dark and cold season, burning great Tallow Candles continually; some of which our men saw. The Church was of the same materials with their Houses, being one Room, able to contain about thirty persons. Four or five of these Churches or Chappels are served by one Teacher about three times in the year; (for it is to be supposed they only Congregate in the Summer.) They are usually placed [Page 96] about five or six miles off each other, or nearer, according as the Country is more or less populous. But one Pastor lives ge­nerally fifteen miles from another, who is maintained by every tenth Fish; and where he resides not, he empowers one to gather the Tithe as they take them. By this means they are furnished with Merchandize, which they sell, or exchange for other things they want, with Ships that come yearly to their Port Town to fetch them, and bring goods accordingly. Hence they come to be the most wealthy and considerable of the peo­ple. They are Lawyers, Justices of the Peace, and customarily sole in Authori­ty. For their Education is the most liberal, being, as I was informed, in a School, or petty University in Norway, near Dronthem. They too observe the greatest Hospitality; all Travellers being entertained by them, and furnished with Sleds or Rain-Deer, from one to another: the like also was I told by the Governour's Man before, when he informed me, of their way of Travelling. They breed Cattle of a small kind, with Goats and Sheep; and Swine also. The former are fed in the Summer with Grass, of which they have plenty at that time; but in the Winter they gather Rock-weeds [Page 97] at low Water, and Boyl them in Coppers [...]ade for the purpose, to take the Salt [...]t; and then give them to their Beasts to [...]t. They have Horses too of very mean [...]ature, who have the same food: But the [...]ogs I guess are nourished by Fish, by rea­ [...]n the dryed Pork they brought me, had a [...]rong taste of it. Their Customs and Man­ [...]ers are much like those of the Danes, un­ [...]er whose Dominion they are; and every [...]an from fifteen to sixty, is Taxed at two [...]ollars each, which they pay yearly, either Fish or Money, to the King of Denmark's [...]ollectors: and for that, they have a seem­ [...]g Protection, and a Liberty of living [...]here they please; which in Summer is up [...]d down the Country; but in Winter they [...]tire to their Joint Habitations fitted up [...]itably. Their Religion too is Danish, be­ [...]g of the Reformed Lutheran Church, in [...]elief and discipline; their Sermons being [...]eached, and their Divine Services per­ [...]rmed in the same Language. So that [...]ough they have another Language Antient [...]d Native in the Country, yet they under­ [...]and and use the Danish mostly. As to [...]eir Women I can say but little, not seeing [...]y my self, nor did the Men, I sent pre­ [...]nd to give any account of their Behaviour, [Page 98] or how they managed their Families. The only told me, that their habit was like th [...] Danish Womens; but I could not but b [...] lieve the better sort of them love fine Cloath as well as our English Dames. For sendin [...] a piece of wrought Silk of 7 or 8 Yard the Ministers Wife at the Cape bought readily: and to shew how much she w [...] pleased with her bargain, over and abov [...] the price she agreed to and paid, she sent [...] a dozen of Partridges, and a Cheese. H [...] Husband too, made me a present of a sma [...] Cask of Beer. Nor was the Mercha [...] behind him in Civility, sending me a fre [...] Leg of Beef, but killed a Month befor [...] and without any Salt preserved by th [...] Frost: and some dry Mutton withal. An [...] truley they might well enough afford i [...] considering how dearly I paid for my Prov [...] sion.

The 25th, Friday. It held fair, wi [...] little Wind at S. S. E. betimes in the Mor [...] ing I called all hands up, and heaved [...] our Sheat-Anchor, which we carried o [...] before the Long-Boat went away, and g [...] our Yards and Top-Masts up, clearing o [...] Decks and Skuppers from Snow and Ice, an [...] making that night all fit for the Sea; havin [...] [Page 99] longing expectation, and great hopes it [...]ght be on the morrow.

The 26th, Saturday. There was but [...]e Wind stirring this Morning, all we had [...]s from the South East, notwithstanding get out, we unmoored, and got a peek our small Bower, and our Cable aboard, [...]ving only a Towling ashore to cast the Ship. that time our Men had got their Breakfast, [...]hich was a high word with us then, and began to speak it chearfully) it proved [...]air Gale at S. W. we heaved up our An­ [...]or, and cast off our Hawse, and got out the Fuel, where we found the Wind fair [...]i Southerly: But espying a Boat rowing [...]ards us, we laid to, and took her up. [...]it was the same person that came before [...]th the Governours Man, viz. the Mini­ [...]s Son, a young man about 30 years of [...]e. By him his Father sent me tokens [...]hly acceptable, that is to say, a whole [...]f ready roasted, a rarity, but not a won­ [...], because entire; seeing it was not much [...]ger than one of our Hares, ready drest England. Also a Runlet of Beer▪ with Kid or Wooden Vessel of Milk, contain­ [...] above three Gallons; which was very [...]eet and good. A small quantity of Curds [Page 100] too, fresh and tender; with a couple o [...] little thick Cheeses, well tasted, but a litt [...] strong of the Runnet: over and above, Ham of their choice Bacon. I had mu [...] ado to force a present upon him, his Fath [...] having charged him, not to take any thin [...] of me, that I should want in my passa [...] home. At length I perswaded him to carry h [...] Mother a Pound of white Sugar, and a Pot [...] Honey, and a parcel of Raisins, and p [...] sented himself with two Silk Hankerchie [...] so we parted, he for his home, and I ma [...] the best of my way for Sea.

We sailed in the middle of the Fuel f [...] safety, so that we could make no nice obs [...] vation of the Land; besides we were mig [...] tily disabled for distant Views, by [...] smoke of our Green-wood Fires, which [...] had endured so long. Howbeit we [...] cerned the shore to lye high on either si [...] with Wood upon it in some places; but none so much as where we lay: as we h [...] been told before by the people of the Co [...] try. So that we happened well into place, so plentifully supplied with what could not have lived without.

At four in the Afternoon we got out of the Fuel; by eight at night we were length of the Eastermost part of the Cape. It blew hard at S. S. West, so that I was forced to both my Sails.

The 27th, Sunday. The Wind shifted from S. W. to West, blowing so hard, as to put me by both my Top-sails. At twelve at noon, we reckoned the North Cape to bear S. E. half East, distant 42 Miles. I made my way this 24 hours N. W. half West; distance 49 miles.

The 28th, Monday. By 10. at night the Wind eased, and we set our Main-Top-Sail; at two in the morning we set our Fore­Top-Sail, it being handsome weather: at six in the Morning, we set our Main-Stay-Sail and Mizen-Stay-Sail. All this time the Wind continued shifting between S. W. by S. and West. I made my way N. W. 3d. West: distance 47 miles

The 29th, Tuesday. We had moderate weather as to Wind, and that shifting be­tween South, and S. W. by West. I made my way this 24 hours N. N. W. distance 47 miles. It being almost stark Calm between times.

The 30th, Wednesday. It blew a Stou [...] of Wind till 5 in the morning, when i [...] began to abate, and fell a Snowing, and freezing very hard withal: I tacked to the Southward. By twelve at noon it grew Calm. I made my way this 24 hours W. by N. half Northerly: distance 68 Miles This day I got an observation, and foun [...] my self to be in the latitude of 73 degrees, and 25 minutes.

The 31st, Thursday. It proved very fai [...] weather, but very cold, the Wind holding between the S. by West and S. E. with a moderate Gale; and towards Noon we had it mighty Calm, with a smooth Sea. I made my way S. W. half West: distance 67 Miles.

April the 1st, Friday. It blew hard, the Wind shifting between the S. S. E. and West; the Sea going very high. I made my way W. S. W. 3 d. West: distance 57 Miles.

The 2d, Saturday. It continued to blow as the day before, Snowing at an ex­cessive rate, and froze so exceeding hard, [Page 103] that all the water that flew into the Ship, became Ice in a small time. Insomuch, that the Ship it self, both within and without, was compleatly lined and covered with Ice: and nothing about us was fit to be handled. The Wind came to the North; so we made shift to get our Main-Sail hauled up, and bound together, as well as we could, and stood away with our Fore-Sail; it look­ing dreadfully a-stern of us. But toward noon the face of things was altered, and I got another Observation, finding my self thereby in the Latitude of 71 degrees and 46 minutes.

Then we set our Main-Sail again, but there was no spreading it, it was so hard frozen; and to pull it down we were forced to bring the Tackle to our Tacks and Sheats, straining them as hard as we durst, for fear of pulling the Sail in pieces: after all, we could not get it above half spread. We set our Sprit-Sail too, but all the Watch, which were ten Men, were two hours in getting it loose. In the afternoon I went a­bout setting my Fore-Top-Sail; but could not get it out of the Top, by all the ways we could devise. I made my way S. W. 3 d. West: distances 35 Miles.

The 3d, Sunday. It was moderate e­nough as to Wind, and that between the N. and East; but it froze excessively. This day with great toil and labour, I got both my Top-Sails set; loosing the Sails by degrees, and letting them dry; and bringing the Sheats to the Windles, with Looff-Tackles, I got them spread. I made my way S. W. by S. distance 73 miles.

The 4th, Monday. We had mild wea­ther this day, the Wind shifting round; and now and then it Snowed. I made my way W. S. W. 1 d. West: distance 54 Miles.

The 5th, Tuesday. The Wind came to to South, and so to West, blowing hard, that we were forced to take in our Top-Sails, and at last our Fore-Sail. At ten in the forenoon we Reefed our Fore-Sail and Mizen, and tacked to the Southward, so that I made my way W. by N. distance but 34 Miles.

The 6th, Wednesday. Little Wind had we all this day, and that running round the Compass; but the Frost fixt and se­vere. [Page 105] The way I made was S. S. E. 1 d. East; distance but 19 miles.

The 7th, Thursday. Not much Wind to day, but shifting between the South and W. S. W. with close weather. Notwith­standing I made my way S. by East: distance 22 Miles.

The 8th, Friday. The former part of the day it blew very hard, obliging us to hand both our Top-Sails; but in the after-part proved so moderate, that we set them again: the Wind shifting from S. to S. W. by S. we made our way West, half Southerly: distance 63 Miles.

The 9th, Saturday. It proved Squauly, but indifferent as to Wind. We handed our Fore-Top-Sail twice, and set him again as otf. The Wind shifting between S. and S. W. I held my course for 51 Miles West, half Southerly.

The 10th, Sunday. We met with hard Gales, first at South, and then coming to West: which put us under a Main course. I held on my way S. W. 5 d. Southerly: di­stance 65 Miles.

The 11th, Monday. It remained stormy weather, attended with abundance of Snow falling, and exceeding hard Frost. I was forced to Reef my Main-Sail as well as we could, but in a sorry manner, stub­born as it was, and so much Snow lodged in it. The Wind was at S. E; so I made my way West 42 Miles.

The 12th, Tuesday. The Wind came to E. S. E. and so about to N. by W. with a great deal of Snow, and freezing extraordi­nary hard. I made my way good to the South 92 miles.

The 13th, Wednesday. Good weather enough as to Wind, but the Snow fell very thick. At Midnight it blew from the N. W. towards day from the E. and by S. little Wind. At break of day it fell quite Calm, freezing very hard. I made my way South; distance 94 miles.

The 14th, Thursday. The Wind came to N. E. and then to North W. blowing so very hard, that I could carry nothing, but a Fore-Course: we had a great Sea out of the South; but in the morning I set my Main-Sail again, after the best manner I [Page 107] could: so hard frozen was it, that I could not get it above half spread, though I lower'd my Main-Yard above 3 foot down. I made my way South: distance 117 Miles.

The 15th, Friday. We had a Brave Wind from the W. and by N. which made us strive hard to bring our Fore-Top-Sail to be serviceable, getting it off the top, and by meer strength forced open some part of it; and so stood away with it for four hours: after which time it relented, enlarged and became more useful. By which means I made my way S. distance 123 Miles.

The 16th, Saturday. It blew a stout of Wind at N. N. W. so that I had made my way S. by W; distance 142 Miles. By twelve at noon we saw Fowley Island, to the E. S. E. of us, distant eighteen Miles. We had brave moderate weather at this Time; and now we heard Rats about the Ship, who began to be Infense and Vexatious to us, in seizing upon our new Stock-fish. It is manifest they kept close all the cold sea­son, but our sick Men who lay below with my Surgeon and Carpenter, (who was an old Man and kept constantly a Lamp burning [Page 108] by him,) never saw any of them, or per­ceived them in the least to stir. How they lived so long on Board we guessed afterward, when we found they had eaten holes in our Masts, and made themselves places to lye in. And for drink they could get none, but by licking the Ice Casks; though no body saw such a thing done by them.

The 17th, Sunday. It continued fair the Wind at West. At Sun Rising I saw Shet­land, and the Isles of Fair and Fowley alto­gether; it being very clear so early. At ten I discerned Orkney; and at twelve at noon I took my departure from Fair Isle, which then bore North from us, di­stant thirty Miles; being very fair wea­ther.

The 18th, Monday, The weather held as before, but the Wind was shifting be­tween the W. and S. W. I made my way S. S. E. distance 82 Miles.

The 19th, Tuesday. The day began with a fresh of Wind at W. N. W. and a little before noon we saw 3 Ships steering towards us. Whereupon, as not depending upon what the Governor of Wardhouse his [Page 109] Secretary had told us, or giving entire cre­dit of his news of a Peace with France, I caused a clear Ship to be made, and put our selves in as good a posture of defence as we were able.

I furled my small Sails and Main-Sail, and by that time one of them came within shot of my weather Bow, I fired a shot for him to come Leeward of me; which he very honestly did, and confirmed the news of a Peace, to the great joy of our Hearts: for God knows we were but in a bad condition for managing our Guns in a way of fighting. This Ship was a Flemish Fly-boat bound to Greenland, for Whale-fishing. We present­ly after saw more Ships bound to the same place, and two Fisher-boats also: But be­ing now out of fear for Ships, we took no notice of the rest. I made my way this 24 hours S. half West distance 113 Miles.

The 20th, Wednesday. The Wind turned to the S. W. by W. so that I could not Seas in with our North Course, but was forced to stretch it away to the South­ward.

The 21st, Thursday. The Wind re­turned to the N. N. E. and to the N. E. At 4 in the afternoon we had the sight of Fulness to the S. and by E. off us. And no small surprize was it to us, to see all the Land covered with Snow at this time of the year. A prospect of ones own Country had been agreeable no doubt to any of us after so long an absence by constraint and misfortune; but much more, had she had the usual garb of the season. Soon after the wind came to the East, and obliged me to tack to the Norward in the night; we had much Snow and a fresh Gale, shifting N. E. and by N. and East North East.

The 22d, Friday. In the Morning with a North N. E. wind, I came into Yarmouth Road, and thanks be to God, gave my Owners a sight of their Ship: one of them, as I was told, but 3 hours before, having proffer'd his part for 3 Guineas, which was now worth 150 pounds.

The Wind holding in the same point, and a fair Tide with me, I made no stop, but put through the Road, and ran [Page 111] that night into Alborough Bay; where the Wind coming Westerly, brought me to an Anchor, so I Rid all night.

The 23d, Saturday. By day-light per­ceiving some Colliers coming out of the Nesse, I hoisted out my Long-Boat, and got some fresh provision among them; to our great Comfort. That afternoon I got out of Sled way; the Wind still at West.

The 24th, Sunday. The Wind coming to the N. W. I got up to the Buoy off the Middle of Lee. It was calm and very warm, which brought our men into many Com­plaints, as pain in their Limbs, &c. So that the next day I thought fit to send two of them up the River. I took notice of one of our Company, that went well to his Cabbin, but when we called him out to heave up the Anchor, he was so swoln, that we feared he would burst. But then being got above Graves­end, I hired a Wherry, and sent him up with three more; supplying their places with some fresh and able men to bring up the Ship.

I and all the rest, perceived our selves manifestly the worse for the warm weather, as we called it; but 'tis well enough known almost to every one living, that such a Temper of Air in England, both then, and for some time after, was scarce ever ob­served, when the year was so far advanced.

FINIS.

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