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[Page 41]THE DISCRIPTION OF the Cittie of Excester, collected and gathered by Iohn Vowel alias Hooker, gentleman, and Chamberlain of the same Cittie.
EXcester or Exeter is a famouse and ancient Cittie, béeing the Metropole and Emporium of the west parts of England, scituated in the Prouince called Deuonia, which is Deuonshéer. Of the first foundation therof (by reason of the sundry inuations of forrain and straunge nations, and of their hostilities and mortall warres, in burning and destroying this Cittie) there remaineth no certain memoriall, neither emong the records of the said Cittie, nor yet in any other writer. But moste certain it is that it was first builded by the Brutes or Britons, for the names which they gaue vnto it: are yet at these presents had in remembraunce, as Brutus. wel emong the Cronographers of this Realme: as also emong the Cornish people, who sometimes were one with this Prouince, but are now in a Prouince of themselues and borderers to this, béeing the remanent of the blood of Brutus.
For when Cadwalader King of this land by reason of a great Cadwalader. famin and Pestilence, was inforced to forsake the same and flée into little Britain (which now is vnder the dicion of the French King) diuers and moste parte of his people fled also, some into Wales and some into Cornwall, wher euer sithēce they and after them their posteritie haue remained and continued.
The olde Cronographers serchers, and writers of antiquities, Corinnia. doo finde that this Cittie was called Corinia, and therof the Monaltary of this Cittie was called Ecclesia Coriniensis: whiche name if it were first giuen as it should seem by Corineus, who after the ariuall of Brutus into this land, was made the first Duke of these two Prouinces of Deuon, and Cornwall, and who thē after his owne name called it Corinia, [Page] but now Corinibia, wherof this Cittie euer hath béen and is the Metropolie and Emporium and alwaies parcel, sometimes of y e kingdome, then of the Duchie, & afterwardes of the Earledome, and now again the Duchie of Cornewall, out of all dout it is of no lesse antiquitie then the said names doo importe.
The Britons in their fung call it by sundry and diuers names. The first and eldest in remembraunce in their spéech Cairpenhulgoit. is Cairpenhulgoyte, that is to say, the prosperous chéef Town in the wood, as it dooth appéer by Geftery of Monmoth and Ponticus Virimus. It was also called Penhaltcayr, that is to say, the chéef Cittie or Town vpon the hil, as appéereth in the Penhaltcair. trauerse betwéen the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter of this Cittie, and the Mayor and comminaltie of the same: in a long sute concerning their liberties.
But the names which the Cornish people doo at these presents remember & retain are Pencayr, Cayrruthe, Cayrriske. Pencayr. Cayrruth. Cayrriske. Pencayr is to say the chéef Cittie. Cayrruthe signifieth the red Cittie, taking that name of the soyle of the ground whervpon it is situated, which is red. Cayrryske is y e Cittie of Iske béeing so called, and taking his denominatation of the Riuer whiche fléeteth by the said Cittie called in Brittish Iske. And of this name Houedon in his Cronicle maketh mentiō saying thus, Anno domini. 877. Excercitus danorum, ab warham nocte quadam federe dirupto ad Exancester diuerterunt quod brittannice dicitur Caerwiske. Ptolomeus the famose Astronomer, who was about the yéer of our Lord. 162. ( Coel béeing King of this land) nameth the Cittie Isca and the Riuer king Coil Isaca. And Bale the sercher of antiquities, folowing the same opinion dooth also name the Cittie Isca and the in habitant or dweller therin Iscanus. But vnder corection and Bale. with reuerence be it said, a man may think that Ptolomeus béeing in Alexandria, and so farre distant from this Realme was happely misinformed: or els the Printer mistaken because it is moste likely that the Riuer should be called Isca according to the Brittish spéech in those dayes when it was called [Page 42] Isca, which name by trāsposing of two middle letters dooth yet remain, being now named Icsa. or Ecsa. But whatsoeuer Ptolomeus or Baleus censures and iudgements be héerin: it is moste certain, that the names which the Britons gaue were of longest continuance, and this Cittie called by their dominations by the space of xv. hundred yéeres vntil the comming of the Saxons, the Pictes, and Scots into this Realme, whiche was about the yeer of our Lord 450, for they as they preuailed and conquered: did alwaies alter and chaunge the names of all places and Townes, accounting it a great parte of their glory aud renown to giue new names of their owne deuice, or of their owne natiue Contries, for so write y e Cronographers.
Picti, Scoti, Angli, Daci et Normandi, in hac insula rerum potiti, cuncta immutarunt, pro trophaeis habentes, Locis a se deuictis noua imponere nomina. Wherfore as of all other Citties and Townes (few excepted) so of this also they chaunged Muncketon. and altred the olde names and called it Muncketon, by which name it was so called by the space of thrée hundreth and od yéeres, vntil the time and comming of King Adlestane. For he about the yéer of our Lord. 932. beeing muche gréeued with Adlestane the Rebellion of the Cornish people, because they refused and denyed to acknowledge him for their lawful King: did bend his power, and conducted his armie against them, and (with force when he had subdewed them) returned to this Cittie, and for a perpetuall memory to this common welth, whiles he soiorned him self therin: repaired and new builded the Cittie and the walles therof, whiche before with force and fire were vtterly destroyed. And then altred and chaunged the name therof calling it after the name of the Riuer Esseterra or Exeterra, that Exeterra. that is to say Exeter. For so writeth Polidorus. Est Exonia vrbs Deuonie comitatus loco precelso ad occidentem versus posita abluitur (que) flumine Exi, a quo nomen habet.
Others therbe which name it Excestrum, and thinketh it to Excestre. be so called of the Riuer whiche is named Exestrum, for this write they Clarissima vrbum est Excestria, que ab amni Excestro, qui eandem preterfluit, est sic nuncupata.
[Page]I finde it also in an olde written Cronicle that it is named Exancestre. Exancestria or Exancestre, which name should séem to be so giuen, by the Saxons at their abode and béeing in this land, for commonly the names which they gaue to such Townes, Citties and Fortes as they either builded or reedified, did end in Cestre as Chestre, as Glocestre, Lecestre, Māchester, winchestre, worcestre, Oscestre, Colchestre, Cicestre, Ilcestre, Bicestre and this Cittie of Exancestre with others, for Cair in British, and Cestre ïn Saxony, is in English a Fort, Town or Castle.
This Cittie is walled round about, and so is thought was from the begininig. It is all togither foure square, but declineth towards a roundnes, and containeth in circuite or compasse xvj. hundred whole paces, after fiue foot to the pace, which accounting one thousand paces to a Mile: is a mile and halfe and some what more.
The scituation of it is very plesaunt and amenous, béeing set vpon a little hil emong many hilles, the Contrie round about béeing Mountanose and ful of hilles. It is pendēt towards the Sowth and West partes after and in such sort, that be the Stréets neuer so foule or filthy: yet with a shower of rain they are clensed aad made swéet. And albeit commonly hilles are dry: yet nature is so beneficial to this hil that it is ful of springꝭ, and by that menes euery parte of the Cittie is furnished with welles and Tyepittes, the commoditie wherof hath wel appéered in sundry times of necessitie, but especially in the late Commotion whiche was in the yéer of our Lord. 1549. for though then the enemy by spoiling of the Pipes, wherby water was conuayed to the fountains of the Cittie from certaine Springs distant not a Mile from the same, did abridge them of that water: yet moste comfortably did they inioy the welles and Tyepittes within the walles, whiche abundantly fléeted with waters to the satisfying of all the people therin.
There are also within this Cittie certain Fountains called Conduits, vnto which through certain canalis or Pipes of Lead, waters are conueyed from Springs rising out of certain places and féelds without this Cittie, and these waters are of [Page 43] moste price, the same by reason of the cariage béeing purified and made lighter then the waters springing within the Cittie, and by that menes more fit for the dressing of meates. Of these Fountains one béeing of great antiquitie, and of later réedifyed, stādeth in the middle of the Cittie at the méeting of foure principall Streets therof, and wherof it taketh his name, beeing called the Conduit at Quarterfoies or Carsoxe, and this serueth eche parte of the Cittie a like.
At the higher parte of this Cittie, is a very olde and auncient Castle called by the name of Rugemont, that is to say the red hil, taking that name of the red Earth whervpon it standeth. The Cite of it is eminent, and aboue bothe the Cittie and countrie adioyning, for they doo all lye as vnder the lee therof. It hath a goodly prospect towards the Seas, for betwéen that and it is no hil at all, it is strongly diched round about, and was so builded (as is thought) by Iulius Caesar or rather by the Romains after him, for they had their recourse to it for their defence and refuge many yéeres.
The same also was sometimes the Palaice of such Kings, as to whome the Kingdome of west Sex or west Saxons was alloted vnto. After that: it was the habitation of the Earles of Cornwall, and last of all to the Dukes of Exon, and of Cornwall, for to those estates: the signiory of this Cittie did appertain, the same béeing parcel sometimes of the Earledome, but now of the Duchie of Cornewall It. is now in meruelous ruin and decay, not easely by force to be gotten, were it réedified and inuironed.
At the lower end and parte of this Cittie, without the walles: fléeteth a goodly Riuer called in British Iske. Ptholomeus by misinformation calleth it Isaca, but the olde writers name it Esle, Exe, Ex [...] or Excestrum, which names be yet retained.
It hath his spring or hed in a certain Moer or desert, distant from this Cittie neer about xxiiij. miles called Exemore: it floweth into the main Seas, but by the way is increced with sundry Riuers, Brookes and Lakes, namely: Creedy, Collome, and others, in it is great plenty of Salmon, Trout, Peal, dace, [Page] Pike, and other fresh water Fish, whiche are had in the lesse price for that the Seas béeing so néer: doo furnish the Cittie and the cuntrey abundantly with sundry kindes of Sea Fish moste delicate. The main Sea it self is not distant from the Cittie abooue eight miles out wherof commeth an Arme seruing for the Port of y e same, which sometimes as appéereth by olde and auncient records: did flow vp to y e walles of the Cittie, where bothe Shippes were wunt to be laden and vnladen, of all kinde of Merchandise at a proper place appointed for the same, which at this presents kéepeth his olde and ancient name, béeing callen the VVater gate.
The decay therof happened in the yéer of our Lord. 1312. Courtney by one Hugh Courtney the third of that name, and Earle of Deuon who béeing offended and incenced against this Cittie, his wrathful humour could not be satisfied vnlesse he might impair the state of that common welth, and therfore séeing and vnderstanding emong other commodities, the vse of the Hauen to be one of the chéefest: did neuer quiet him self vntil he had destroyed the same. Wherfore in the yéer of our Lord. 1313. béeing the fifth yéer of the reign of King Edward the second, he enterprised his pretenced deuise and mischéef.
For where as the Lady Awmerle Countesse of Deuon his Ancestrix, had builded certain Weares vpon the Riuer of Exe, th'one within the mannor of Exminster, béeing in y e west side of the Riuer and th'other within her manor of Topsham, béging in the East side of the Riuer: leuing betwéen the said twoo weres, a certain aparture or open roume of thirtye foot, through which all Botes, Shippes and Uessails without let might haue their vsuall passage and repassage, towards and from this Cittie. The said Earle to abridge & destroy this commoditie: did leuye & build a new Weare in the said open place, stopping, filing and quirting the same with trees, timber and Stones, in such sort that no vessail could passe or repasse.
After him Edward Courtney Earle of Deuon and Nephew to the said Hugh did not onely maintaine and continew the fact of his ancester and grandfather, by dayly repairing and [Page 44] defending the same: but also woorking an vttter destruction for any passage for Shippes thencefoorth to y e Cittie, vnder pretēce to buyld certain Milles, did erect and make two other weares, the one Sainct Iames ouerthwart the Riuer, and the other at Lamperford, by meanes wherof, not onely the Cittie susteined the whole losse of their hauē: but the whole Contrey adioyning, for which iniuryes vpon complaints made, writs and commissions of inquiry were sent out, & the said Earles for the same by verdict and presentment, at seuerall times found guilty, but such was his authoritie and power: that it auailed nothing.
Neuerthelesse the said Earle Hugh (the water course vnto the Cittie thus destroyed) buylded a place called a Key, for the charge and discharge of all Wares and Merchandise within that port, at a Town of his owne called Topsham, distant from the Cittie about thrée miles, from whence euer sithence all wares and Merchandises haue béen caryed and recaryed to and from the Cittie by Horse, Cart or Wain, though to the gain of the Earle and his Tenaunts: yet to the great trouble and hindraunce of this Cittie and Merchaunts therof. Neuerthelesse the port hath euermore, & yet dooth retain his olde and ancient name, béeing called y e Port of this Cittie of Exon, and alwaies hath béen and presently is a tribute paid vnto the Cittie for all kindes of wares and Merchandise discharged within that Port, and called by the name of the pettie & town costome.
And albeit the water course thus destroyed, can hardely be restored to his olde pristinate & naturall estate, for that through long continuaunce the olde course cannot be discerned: yet now at length after many attempts and great expences, a water course and passage begun in the yéer. 1564. is recouered, and by sluces, Botes and vessailes of xx. tunnes tight are brought to the Citie, and there discharged at the olde and ancient place called the VVater gate▪ Where is buylded a fair and a large Key or Wharf, as also an engine called a Crane fit for the purpose.
Within this Cittie were sometime but few parish Churches, but when that Innocencius tertius, in the yéere of our [Page] Lord. 1198. had established the Article of Transubstanciation adding the same to the Simbole, as appéereth in the Decretal, titulo de summa trinitate, canō, firmiter, thē his next successor Honorius, Anno. 1218. did not onely confirme the same: but also decreed Reseruation, Candlelight and praying for the dead as appéereth Decret. titulo de celebratione missarum, canon, sane cum et sane cum creatura, by which meanes y e number of Préests did not onely increace: but Churches also in all places begā dayly to be buylded. And therfore in this Cittie in y e yéer of our Lord, 1222. béeing the .vj. yéere of Henry the third, the parish Churches therin were limitted out and augmented to the number of xix. Churches within the Cittie and suburbes of the same. And moste certain it is, that in times past they were liuings competent and sufficient to maintain an Incumbent, but that kinde of Religion now auoyded & the Gospel preched: the liuelihods are so small as not sufficient to maintain a poore Clark or Scoller, which is the cause that so many of them doo ly vacant without Incumbents.
Besides these parish Churches, there was also a Monastery Churche of Exon. sometime of Monkes of Saint Benets order, but sithence a Cathedrall Church béeing very fair and sumptuously buylded, with frée Stones, and the Pillers of grey Marble, standing and Ethelvvol phus. scituated in the East parte of the Cittie, which as some doo reporte that Etheldred the third Sonne of Ethelwolphus should first found and buyld. Some think that King Edgar did it, trueth it is that bothe the said Kings buylded euery of them a house of Religious persons within this Cittie, but the first was Etheldred vtterly burnt and destroyed by the Danes: and th'other in processe of time vnited to the Monastery, which now is a Cathedrall Edgar. Church, which is moste certain and trew that King Athelstane the Sonne of King Edvvard the elder did bothe foūd and buyld it, as it dooth plainly appéer in the history of the said Church where it is written. Athelstanus subiugatis cornuquallensibus reuersus est ad ciuitatem que antiquitu▪ Muncketon vocabatur, nunc autem Exeter, ac ibi sedens Anno. 932▪ non tam lacerata eiusdem Ciuitatis maenia reparabat, [Page 45] quin et mansum quoddam dedit ad fundandum Monasterium pro monachis Deo et Sancto Petro famulantibus. This King besides his expences & charges in building of this Church (which at the first was but small) placed therin Munkes of S. Benettes order, prouided liuelehodes for them, and made vnto them a gouernor and Ruler called by the name of an Abbote, towards whose liuelihodes he gaue Morckshull and Treasurers Beare, which at these presents doo yet remain beeing annexed to the dignitie of the Tresurership. The Church thus begun: Kings, Princes, and noble men (from time to time) were gladly contributors to the absoluing and finishing of the same. For about lxxx. and od yéeres after Adlestene. King Knoght called Cahutus or Canutus at the sugestion of one of his Dukes named Canutus Athelred, did confirme and graunt to Athelwolde (then Abbot of the said Church) & to his successors, many and sundry priuileges and liberties, vnder his Letters Patentes, dated the second yéer of his reign. Anno domini▪ 1019.
After him néer about xxx. yéeres King Edward the confessor S. Edward, remooued the Munkes vnto VVestminster, and made this a Cathedrall Church, remoouing the Sea thē at Crediton to this Cittie, making Leofricus Bishop therof, as appéereth by his letters Patents dated the viy yéer of his reign, An. 1050. Howbe Leofricus it the Munck of Bury and Polidorus & others, doo affirme and write that y e setling of this Bishops seat in this Cittie, was in the xij. yéer of VVilliam the Conquerour, for thus they write. Habitum est Londini sub Lanfrāco Antistitum et sacerdotū comitium, quo decretum est, quod aliquot sedes Episcopales, que in opidulis et pagis ante fuerant, in vrbibus et locis celeberrimis, collocarentur, quo factum est, vt Bathonia Lincolnia, Sarisburia, Exonia, Cestria et Cicestria vrbes, huiusmodi, nouis Episcoporū domiciliis sunt nobilitate. But the reuerence of these writers reserued, this cannot be so of this Church, the Charter therof witnesing the contrary, & declaring how y • King Edward & Edith his wife did put Bishop Leofricus in possession of this Sea them selues.
Likewise VVilliam y e Conquerour in the third yéer of his reign. Anno. 1069. did not onely confirme the former Charter, [Page] but also at the instance and sute of VVilliam vvareweste then his Chaplain and after Bishop of the same Sea, did giue vnto it the segniory of Plimpton, Brampton and S. Stephens, in Exeter, which the said VVilliam béeing Bishop did distribute, giuing Plympton to the Channōs there, Brampton was afterward annexed to the Deanry, but Saint Stephens with a Court Baron to the same, was alwaies reserued to the Bishop and his successors, wherby they are Barons and so Lords of the Parlement. It was also enlarged from time to time, with possessions, reuenewes, buildings, riches & priuileges, by Kings, Princes, Prelates, Bishops, and sundry others▪ as héerafter I shal particulerly touch & declare by Gods grace at large in a perticuler Book therof. And this one thing is to be noted, y • albeit there were néer iiij. hundred yéeres distant from the foūdation to the absoluing therof: yet is so vniformely and decently compact, as though it had béen buylded at one instant.
The Bishop is distinct from the Channons, bothe in house and reuenew, his liuelihods béeing no parcel of that which doth appertain to the Church and Channons. It was sometimes of great large reuenewes, but the more parte therof prodigally hath béen exhaunsed by a wastful Bishop.
The Bishop and Chānons haue very fair houses which are situated about the Church and Cemitory, and are inclosed euery night, by shutting fast of certain gates, wherby they claime them selues to be exempted from the iurisdiction of the Cittie. In the middle therof: is a very fair Conduict or fountain, wher into waters by certain pipes are conueyd from certain places out of the Cittie, and the same from thence conueyed to the Bishops, and some of the Channons houses.
The Cittie it self is very populus, & was sometimes chéefly inhabited with Clothyers or Clothworkers of brode clothes, seruing much for the Spanish and South Countries, whiche were of such goodnes and substaunce: as that the names of them doo yet continew in these partyes, but now it is chéefly inhabited with Merchaunts, Kersey Clothyers & of all sortes of Artificers, emong whom y e Merchants are y e chéefest & the welthiest.
[Page 46]The gouernment of this Cittie was sometimes by foure Bayliffes called Prouostres, but shortly after the Conquest: there was ordred a Senate of xxxvj, and in these latter dayes of xxiiij▪ persons of the moste sober, graue and wisest Cōmoners and franchised men of the same, of which number one was and is yéerly chosē to be the chéefest gouernour for the yéer folowing and is called by the name of a Maior.
This Mayor associated with the foresaid foure Bayliffes, hath the discerning of and in all maner of actions betwixt partie and partie, & for which he kéepeth on euery Monday a Court in the Guilde hall of the said Cittie, but the Bayliffes hauing the like iurisdiction: doo according to their olde and ancient customes kéep the like Courts, beeing distinct from the Mayor at all dayes and times when them best liketh, which their Court: is called by the name of the Prouostres Court, for Prouostres was their first names. Thus the Maior and Bayliffes bothe ioyntly and seuerally haue iurisdiction to discerne in causes betwéen partie and partie, but if the matter doo touch the Prince, the Crown, the common peace, or the state of the Cittie and the common welth of the same: then the same are decided and determined either by the Maior and Justices, or by the Mayor and common Coūcel, or by the Maior him self, or by some other Officer or officers according to the nature or qualitie of y e cause or matter. But because it requireth a large discourse to discribe the gouernment of the common welth of this Cittie, the charge of euery seuerall Officer, the diuersitie of officers, their seuerall iurisdictions, w t a number of other things incident to their charges: I doo minde héerafter by Gods grace, at large to set the same foorth in such sort that all estates and degrées, and euery perticuler Officer and other person within that Cittie shall knowe his charge, Office and dutie, and what to euery of them appertaineth.
In the mean time: let it suffise that partely through good gouernment and partely of a ciuil inclinatiō, the people of this Cittie as very obsequions and obediēt to the Quéen and her lawes, and haue in great reuerence and awe, their gouernours and [Page] Magistrates for the time béeing. And this one thing is not so straunge as notable, that euen from the beginning, they haue from time to time béen careful for their common welth, & moste vigilant for the preseruation therof, which as in time of peace they did wel rule & gouerne: so also in y e troublesome times and vnquiet estates they haue moste valiantly defēded against the incurtions and assaultes of their enemyes, as by the sundrye Historyes it may appéer.
For Aruiragus, King of this land minding to stay the Realme in his ancient libertyes: denyed to pay to the Romains the tribute which they demaunded, wherfore Claudius the Emperour sent Vespasian the Duke of the Romain Armye into this Realme, either to recouer the tribute or to subdue the land. This Vespasian is he who in the xxiiij. yéer after this did besiege and destroy Iherusalem, wherfore y e Duke landing in Torbay which was then called Totonesium littus, came to this Cittie, layd siege to the same, with continuall assaults and batteryes for eyght dayes. Aruiragus the King béeing then in the East partes and hearing of this: gathereth his Armye and power, marcheth towards this Cittie and incountreth with the enemye. The Romain after long fight (not able to preuail) endeth the matter by composicion, and because this shall not séem to be a deuised and fained matter: I wil write the woords of foure sundry Historyes. The Cronicle of the Cathedrall Church of the said Cittie hath these woords Anno dom. 49.
Vespasianus, cum Romano exercitu ciuitatem nunc voca tam Exeter octo diebus obsedit: sed minime preualuit, Aruirago Rege Ciuibus auxilium prestante.
Gaulfride of Monmothe writeth thus. Vespasianus a Claudio missus est, vt Aruiragū vel pacificaret, vel Romanae subiectioni restitueret: cum igitur in portu in rutupi applicare Vespasianus cepisset: obuiauit ei Aruiragus, at (que) prohibuit ne portū ingrederetur retraxit ita (que) se vespasianus a portu illo, retortis (que) velis in littore Totnesio applicuit: nactus de inde tellurem Kayerpenhulgoite que nunc Exoma vocatur obsessurus eandem adiuit cumque diebus octo eam obsedisset, [Page 47] superuenit Aruiragus cum exercitu suo, prelium (que) commisit: die illa valde laceratus sunt vtrorumque exercitus: sed neuter est potitus victoria: mane autem facto, mediante Gen wissa Regina concordes effecti sunt. Mathevv of Westminster writeth. Aruiragus Britannorū Rex in tantam prolapsus est superbiam quod Romanae potestati noluit diutius subiectione parere: Vespasianus igitura Claudio missus, cum in rutupi portu applicare incepisset, Aruiragus illi obuians prohibuit ne ingrederetur: ac Vespasianus retortis velis in Totonesio littore applicuit: et ciuitatē que Britannice Kayer penhuelgoite nunc autem Exonia appellatur obsedit: elapsis inde septem diebus Aruiragus superuenit, preliumque cum Romanis commisit et vtrorumque exercitu valde lacerato, mediante Genvvissa Claudii filia, duces amici facti sunt.
In the History intituled, Noua Cronica de gestis Anglorum a Britonibus vsque ad Henricum sextum: in effect is written the like. Vespasianus a Claudio missus est vt Aruiragū pacisicare vel Romani ditioni restitueret, cui obuiās Aruiragus prohibuit ne terram suam ingrederetur: timens Vespasianus armatorum cohortem retraxit sese retortisque velis in Totonesio littore est appulsus, atque vrbem Exone obsedit: post septem dies superuenit Aruiragus: preliū committitur, laceraturque vtrorumque exercitus, sed neuter potitur victoria: demum mediante Genuissa Regina reconciliati snnt.
It was also in many troubles and great perplexities in the vncertain and troublesome estates of this Realme, when some times the Romaines, sometimes y e Picts, sometimes the Scottes & sometimes the Saxons made their incursions & warres vpon & in this land, by reason wherof the Records & memorialles of the states in those dayes were for the moste parte lost and consumed. And yet neuerthelesse Mathevv of Westminster writeth y • it was beséeged by Penda King of Mercia. An. Edvvin. 632. in the time of Cadvvallin one of the last Kings of the Britons. The history is Edvvin the Saxon King of the Northumbers, hauing warres against Cadvvalline or Cadvvallo, did so Cadvvalline. preuail and had such conquests ouer him, that he was fain and driuen to forsake his Realme of Wales and flée into Ireland: [Page] where Cadvvallo béeing careful to recouer his land & cuntreye: repaired his Armye and gathered a new force, and often times did attempt to land there within his owne Contreye, but all was in vain, for Edvvin was euer in redines and alwaies resisting him would not suffer him to land in any place.
For this Edwin had about him a certain man named Pellitus who was a Magitian & skilful in Nicromancie, and by his science and Art: did for show & declare vnto Edwin what thingꝭ were a dooing and attempted against him.
Cadwallo hauing such euil successe: was in vtter dispair to recouer or auail against Edwin, wherfore he sailed into Armorica now called Britain vnto y e king therof named Salomon to whom he disclosed his miserable estate & fortune, as also cōplained much of Pellitus & of his Sorceryes. Whē these two Kings had consulted of the matter: it was at length cōcluded & thought best, that some wittie and bolde man should be sent ouer and giue the attempt to kil Pellitus, whervpon Brienus Nephew to king Cadwallo taketh vpon him to attempt this matter, & appareling him self in poor mans wéed: saileth ouer into Englād and traueleth vnto York where King Edwin lay & kept his Court. And there he ioyned and accompanyed him self emong the poor people, whose custome and maner was to lye about the Kings gates, at dinner and Supper times, awayting for the Almes after Dinner and Supper. Pellitus béeing the Kings Alomener and hauing the charge to distribute the almes: commeth foorth and setteth the poor people in order. Brienus by his béeing there: watcheth his time to woork his feat, and sudainly in the prese of the people, with his weapon which he had prepared for the purpose: thrusteth Pellitus into the body and killeth him, and foorth with (the thing in such a throng not perceiued) shifteth him self away priuely, and through woods, thickets, hilles and Dales, commeth to Exeter, where he discloseth and declareth vnto the Britons what he had doon, they glad and reioysing héerof, and hoping that now their King Cadwallo would return: doo prepare and make redy bothe them selues and the Cittie aswell for the resisting of their enemyes: as also for the receiuing and [Page 48] ayding of their King.
Penda hearing of this iniury doon to King Edvvin his contreye man, and minding to reuenge the same: gathered a great armye of Saxons, marcheth vnto Exeter and beseegeth y e same round about, minding the vtter subuertion of the Cittie, and nation, but the Citizens and Britons manfully withstanding his force: defended bothe them selues and their Cittie, vntil that king Cadwallo (beeing héerof aduertised) did with his force come ouer, who not onely reskewed & deliuered bothe his Cittie and contrey: but also ioyning battel with his enemyes gaue them the ouerthrowe.
3 It was also in great trouble in the time of King Allured Alphred or Alphred the fourth Sonne of Ethelvvolphus, for Polidorus and others doo write that in the fifth yeer of y e said Kingꝭ reign: the Danes concluded a peace with the King, and gaue hostages for the kéeping therof, notwithstanding contrary to the same, moste perfideously they assembled thē selues and with all haste marched towards this Cittie & perforce entred & took y e same.
Daci etenim qui Religionem et fidem pre suo commodo postponendam ducebant Londino se mouentes maximus iti neribus Exoniam proficiscuntur: vrbemque per vim capiūt. but long they inioyed no rest there: for the winter passed, the King to be reuenged of their periurye: marched towards the said Cittie with his power, which the Danes vnderstanding, and not able to abide the vexation and trouble of the Citizens: would not abide the end, but fled some to Dartmouth, & there took shipping, who were in a tempest at the Seas for the moste parte drowned, some fled to Chipenham or as sōe write to Bristovv, whom the king so hardly pursewed that he neuer gaue ouer vntil he had ouercome them, and slain their Captains, Hubbert and Hungar.
4 Likewise in the xix. yéer of y e reign of the said king, y e Danes contrary to their faith, pledges and promises did again come to this Cittie and layd siege to the same. Danorum Excercitus Anno. 877. ab vvarham nocte quadam federe dirupto ad Excancestre diuerterunt quod Britannici dicitur Cayerewise [Page] at audito Regis aduentu: ad puppes fugerunt, et in mare predantes manebant.
5 It was also besieged by the said Danes in the xix yéer. of king Elgered. Anno. 1001. For the Danes which were thē in Normandye hearing of the good luck, successe and great spoiles their company in England had in euery place, and their teeth set on edge therwith: sudainly prepared their Shippes to sail & come ouer, and as it chaunced they landed vpon the costes of Deuon and foorthwith took their iourney and marched towards this cittie of Exon, thinking to haue found them napping, and to haue taken them vnwares and vpon a sudain. Sed Ciuibus viriliter resistentibus recesserunt, the inhabitāts and people of Deuon, Somerset and Dorset hearing therof: in all haste assembled thē selues minding bothe to reskew the Cittie, as also to encounter and aduenture the feeld with the Danes. And meeting with them as they were comming from the siege of the Cittie: ioyned battail with them at a place called Pinho distant about iij, miles frō the Cittie, where was a cruel fight and a great slaughter had betwéen them. And thus dooth Houedon also testifie for saith he, Memoratus paganorum exercitus de Normannia in Angliam reuectus ostium fluuii Eaxe ingreditur et mox ad extinguendam vrbem Exancestre egreditur sed dum murum illius destruere moliretur ac ciuibus vrbem viriliter defendentibus repellitur: vnde nimis exasperatus more solito villas succendendo agros depopulando hominesque cedendo, per domnoniam vagatur: quare domnanienses in vnum congregati, in loco qui dicitur Pinho certamen cum eis ineunt.
King Sweno béeing in Denmark & aduertised héerof, as also Svveno. how King Eldred alias Etheldred or Egelred, had caused all the Danes in the Realme sudainly in one night to be slain, béeing much greeued therw t: did prouide & prepare an armye for the reuenge therof, and in the yéer. 1002. landing into diuers partes of this Realme did moste cruelly spoil the land▪ sley the people and bring the whole estate to an vnspeakable miserye. But at length (receiuing a tribute for peace) returned home again [Page 49] into his owne contrey, howbeit the Citizens of Exon hearing of this crueltie vsed in the East partes: made them selues strong and prepared the Cittie in redynes to withstand y e force of such an enemye, if happely he should attempt hostilite and force against them. But the Dane beeing returned heme and knowing nothing of this preparation: one Hugh then Earle of Deuon, (as Princes lack no fawners) sent his letters into Denmark to King Sweno, certifying him bothe of the slate & welth of this Cittie, and of the great preparation made therin to with stand him, perswading him not to sustain such a matter, and as Coles wilbe soon enkendled: so foorthwith the Dane was in his heat, and prepared all thinges in a redynes to woork his wil against this Cittie.
Wherfore the yéer folowing béeing y e yéer of our Lord. 1003. he landed vpon the costs of Deuon and Cornwall, with a huge hoste and marching towards this Citie gaue and laid siege to the same in the beginning of August and continued vntil the xiiij. of y e Kalendes of September, during which time, though the assaultes were often ferce and cruel: yet there wanted no stomack in the Citizens to withstand the same. But in continuance of time when they sawe them selues weke, Uictualles to fail, the fire round about them, their walles beaten down, them selues dayly slaughtered and murthered, and with this their decay, the enemye to be the stronger, and yet in all their distresse their king Eldred fled into Normandye hauīg no care for their miseryes, nor preparing reskewes, for their ayd and succour: it was no maruail though in so heauye a case they were amased and astonied, & yet consulting & considering with thē selues that Sweno was a Dane, a cruel enemie, a bloody murtherer & a very vsurper, hauing no other title to y e Realme of England but tiranny: did with one consent agrée and conclude neuer to yéeld or giue ouer as long as any were left aliue, which might with stand such an enemye, wishing rather to dye in trueth, and for their common welth: then to liue with reproche and infamy, and to departe rather with mortall Fame: then to be miserable slaues to an vsurping tirant. When therfore after many long [Page] assaultes they were spent and few or none left aliue to withstād so mightie & so many enemyes: the Dane on the. xxvij. of August entred the Cittie, and when he had serued his bloody appetite, in murdering the poor widdowes and Children: he spoyled the Cittie, burned the houses, rased the walles, beat down the Temples, and left nothing which either by swoord, fire or spoyling might be consumed.
And so Renolph writteth. Dici cum suo Rege Swano Excestriam venerunt et vrbem funditus destruxerunt, nulla re incolumir▪ licta, que aut ferro aut igne poterat vastari. et omnia spolia cineribus tantum relictis, secum deportauerunt.
The like woords Henry of Huntington in the sixt Booke of his historyes, writeth in this sort. Anno dom. 1003, Daci ira exarserunt, sicut ignis quem sanguine velit aliquis extinguere: aduolantes igitur quasi multitudo locustarum quidam Exestriam venerūt, et vrbem totam funditus destruxerunt, et omnia spolia secum, cineribus tantum relictis deportauerunt. Houedon also writteth. Rex danorum Swein per iniuriam et proditionem Normanici comitis hugonis quem Emma Domnaniae prefecerat, ciuitatē Exon infregit spoliauit murum ab orientali vs (que) ad occidentalē portam destrux it et cum ingenti praeda naues repetiit. VVilliam Cōquerer.
6 It was also besieged by VVilliam the Conquerour in the first yéer of his reign Anno. 1068.: for when he first entred the land vsing by dent of Swoord all hostilitie: this Cittie entring in leage with the nobilitie and Townes of this Contrey, did conclude and promise, eche to the other to withstand the enemye to the vttermoste, & accordingly did prepare for the same, but when the Conquerour had preuailed and subdued almoste the whole Realme, and vnderstanding that this Cittie would not yéeld: sent his Armye from London and besieged the same, and perceiuing the siege to continew: marched him self as far as Salisbury towards the same. In the mean time. y e Citizens aduertised that the whole Realme had yéelded, and seeing their confederats to shrink dayly from them: and by that menes they to wax dayly weaker and weaker, beeing not able to withstand [Page 50] so great a power and Armye as was round about them: did by way of intreatie offer conditions of peace, and submitted them selues to the King, who according to their composition receiued their submission, & after a gréeuouse fine taken: did restore the Cittie vnto them again. But in token of his conquest: he altred the Gates of the Castel, and swore all the people to be his liege Subiects.
Houedon in his History maketh mencion that King Harolds wife should be within the Cittie during this assault & besiege, for these be his woords, Hyeme imminente Rex VVillielmus de Normannia in Angliam rediitet Angliae importabile tributum imposuit: deinde in domnoniam hostiliter profectus est ad ciuitatem Excestriam quam ciues et nonnulli Anglici ministri contra illum retinebant et obsedit et in fregit: Githa vero commitissa mater scilicet Haroldi Regis Anglorum, ac soror Swani Regis danorum cum multis de ciuitate fugiens, euasit, e [...] Flandriam petiit: ciues autem dex tris acceptis regi se dederunt.
7 Also in the second yéer of King Stephen. Anno. 1137. the King Stephen, Lords and Péeres of the Realme remembring the othe they had made to King Henry the first, to whome they swore to bée true to Maude the Kings daughter and to her heires (and yet contrary to the same had sworne them selues to King Stephen:) began to repent them selues, and consulted how to restore Maude the Empresse, wherfore assembling togither in armour did deuide themselues and took sundry Cities & Castels.
Baldwin Ridiuers.And Baldvvin Ridiuers Earle of Deuon with force of Armes tooke this Cittie, whom King Stephen pursuing: did driue him out of the same to y e Islle of VVight then his Lordship. But the King when he had receiued the Cittie into his faith: did march towards the Isle of VVight, and taking the same, did banish the said Earle. But Maude y e Empresse remembring this Cittie for this faith did enlarge the liberties, for whom euer after an aniuersary was kept at the charges of the Cittie. Howebeit some say that this Baldvvin took Oxforde or Westchester, and not Excester and from thence fled to VVight.
[Page]8 It was also in some trouble in the xj. yéere of King Richard King Richard. the second. Anno. 1387. For a controuersie béeing bèfall betwéen the King and his Uncles, the Dukes of York and Glocestre, Duke of York. none were then so much in the Kings fauour as Robart Vere Marques of Doublin, Michael Dalapool Earle of Suffolke, and others of their faction: whome the King commaunded Duke of Glocestre to collect and assemble an Armye, in and for his defence agaīst his vncles, but they, whether they mistrusted their owne parte, or whether they were minded to make them selues stronger, leuing their iorney towards London came to this Cittie, Vere. the Dukes vnderstāding the same: pursued thē with all spéed, and at this Cittie ioyned battail and fought with them, but the Marques and the Earle trusting better to their féet then to Delapole. their hands: did preuily flée away into Scotland, and frō thence into Flanders where they dyed.
9 It was also in great troubles in the time of King Edvvard Lord Din ham. the fourth, for in the x. yéer of his reign. Anno. 1469. when the states of King Henry the vj. and King Edvvard the fourth were doutful. The Duchesse of Clarente, the Lord Dinham, the Lord Fitzvvarren and the Baron of Carewe with others, Lord Fitzvvarren. who took parte with Henry the vj. came to this Cittie accompanyed with a thousand fighting men, the Duches béeing great with childe, and lodged in the Bishops place. But Sir Baron of Carevve. Hugh Courtney Knight, who fauored and was of the parte of King Edward, hearing of this: raised an armye of his fréends and Allies, besieged the Cittie, brake down the Bridges, and stopped all the waies comming towards the same, by meanes wherof no Uictualles could come to the market. And béeing encamped about the Cittie, sent vnto the Mayor requiring him either to open the Gates: or to deliuer the gentlemen whiche were within.
The gentlemen which were within, they of their parties either mistrusting the Mayor or Comons, or not willing to be ruled vnder his gouernment: requied the keyes of the gates to be deliuered into their custody, and all things to be doon as at their appointment.
[Page 51]In which perplexitie and doutful estate: the Mayor and his brethern consulting, did resolue and determine neither to yéeld to the request of them which were without: nor yet to satisfie their requests which were within, but pacifying bothe partyes with such honest and quiet meanes as they might, did conclude to keep the Cittie and them selues, as to their allegiance appertained to the vse of the Crown, wherfore foorthwith they rampred the Gates, fortified the Walles, and armed their Souldiers and set all things in good order, leauing nothing vndoon, which might be for the preseruation of the state and common welth of the Cittie. But in small processe of time, the prouision waxed short, and victualles began to be scant, whereof it was feared a famine would insue, the same béeing so hard a thing, as so great a number of people would not endure and abide. Yet notwithstanding partely by y e good peswasions of the Magistrates, and hauing a regarde of their owne dutyes and estates, and hoping this troublesome time would not long indure: did continewe firme and trusty in their cause, vntil at length by way of intreatie and mediation of certain Chanons Duke of Clarence. of the Close, the siege was after xij. dayes remooued and raised, whervpon very shortly did insue the féeld at Edgecourt, where the Duke of Clarence, and the Earle of VVarwick béeing put to the worst) did flée to this Cittie, entring in the third of April, Neuel erle of VVarvvick. lying in the Bishops Pallaice for a few dayes, vntil they prouided Shippes at Dartmouth fit for their passage to Calleys.
The King hauing vnderstanding whiche wayes his enemyes were gon: followed and pursewed them with an armye of xl. thousand men, and came to this Cittie the xiiij. of Aprill, Anno. 1470. but he came to late the Duke and the Earle béeing gone to the Seaes before his comming, wherfore the King after he had reposed him selfhéer thrée dayes: returned.
10 It was likewise in great trouble, béeing besieged the .x. j. king Henry. yéere of the reign of King Henry the vij. Anno 1498. by one Parkin VVarbeck who in the beginning of September came to this Cittie and encamped it, with Ordinaunce battred the walles, fired the gates, vndermined the walles and scaled the [Page] same, but by the noble courage of the Citizens: he had small successe, béeing manfully resisted vntil suche time as the King aduertised therof: did send the Lord Edvvard Courtney Earle of Deuon, and the Lord VVilliam his Sonne, with other Noble men, who reskewed the Cittie and deliuered it from the enemye.
11 Finally and last of all it was besieged in▪ the third yéere of King Edvvard. King Edvvard the sixt. Anno. 1549. by the Commons of Deuon and Cornvvall, who not contenting them selues with the state of Religion then established: clustered them selues in companyes, appointed to them selues Captaines, and minded by their force to vndoo that which the Prince by Lawe and Act of Parlement had established, wherfore to redéeme all such places of force, welth, and defence, into their owne hands, whiche might in any respect, serue for their ayde and defence: came to this Cittie the second of July. 1549. and encamped them selues about the same in great numbers, during the time of their abode & besieging: great troubles arose, sōetimes assaultꝭ made, sometimes y e gates fired, sōetimes y e walles vndermined, some times skirmishes made & some great laromes to defēd y e walles against scaling, finally nothing was left vndoon, which the enemyes might deuise for y e obteining of their purpose. And albeit there wāted not lusty stomakes of the Citizens to withstād this outward force, yet in processe of time such scarcitie of Uitualles did encrease, & Bread waxed so scant: that the people began to waxe wery and lothe to abide the extremitie therof, whiche was so extreme, that it was feared either that the people must yéeld to the enemye: or perish with famin. How beit the Magistrates (though sory in such destesse) yet hauing a speciall regarde of their dutie toward the Prince, and their charge to the common welth, left no meanes vnsought to quiet the people and stay them in their deutye and obidience. Wherfore comforting the people with fair promises, and liberall reléeuing their necessities: did in such sort and order handle the matter, that euery body with one assent was resolued in hope of some spéedy releef to abide the end, and in no wise to giue place to the [Page 52] enemye: but to continue faithful to the Prince, and trusty to their common welth. And yet in the meane while the gouernours left no deuises and prouisions which might be for the reléefe and comfort of the poore hungrye bellyes, wherfore the corne and Meale consumed: they caused of course and olde refused Bran, bread to be moulded vp in clothes, for otherwise it would not stick togither. Also they caused some excurtions to be made out of the Cittie, for the praying and taking of such Cattel as were néer about the walles, which béeing taken: was distributed emong the poor. Likewise the Prisoners in captiuitie were contented to be fatisfied with such victualles, as could bée prouided, and albeit mannes nature can scarcely abide to féed vpon the flesh of a Horse: yet these poor men were fed therwith and wel contented.
The noble King and Councel aduertised of this distresse: did at length after. xxxv. dayes, send the honorable S. Iohn Russel Knight, Lord Russel, Lord priuy Seale, and afterwards Earle of Bedford, with a company and band of Souldiers, who after sundry conflicts had with the enemyes: came to this Cittie the vj. of August, reskewing and deliuering the same from the enemye, and set them at libertie. For the which as God was moste worthy of all praise and glory: so is the same his deliueraunce at this present had in perpetuall memory the vj. of August béeing a holy day in the remembraunce therof.
Thus this little Cittie which in antiquitie is not inferiour to other: hath from time to time felt the smartes and chaū ges of all times, and indured great troubles, daungers, extremities and perilles, and yet God regarding their faith & obediēce to their Prince and common welth before all other sacrifices: hath defended and preserued them alwaies rewarding them with immortall Fame, for which his great benefits, his name be praised for euer and euer.
The sundry and seuerall names of the Cittie of Excester, and the interpretation of the same.
COrinea or Corinia, is the first and eldest name of this Cittie, and so named by Corineus who ariuing with Brutus into this lād, and seasing or taking lād vpon these west parteꝭ: was (by Brutus) Lord of the same. And he then building this Cittie (as is thought) called it by his owne name Corinia whiche beeing so: then is this Cittie one of the first Townes or Cittyes buylded by the Brittons in this land.
Cayrpenhuelgoite, is compounded of foure woords. Cayr is a Fortresse or a walled Town, pen is a hed or the chéef of any thing, hovvel is good luck, prosperitie or knowledge, goyed is wood, a forest or timber woork, now these put togither after the English phrase: is the prosperouse chéef Town in the wood.
Penhaltcayr is compounded of thrée woords, Pen is the hed or chéef, halt is high, a top of a hil, or the brim or edge of a thing. cayr is a Town walled or a Fortresse, these put togither, doo signyfy the hed Town or Cittie vpon the Hil.
Pencayr is compounded of two woords, of Pen and Cayr, which signify the chéef Cittie.
Cayrruthe, Cayrrith, is compounded of Cair and Rith, Rith is tawnish or a dark red, and so it signifyeth the red town, Cittie or Fort.
Cayrriske is likewise a compound of two woords, Iske signifieth afresh water, also a quil or a wing, but in this place: it is the name of the Riuer which fléeteth by the Cittie, and so [Page 53] it signifieth the Cittie of Iske.
Isca was also the name of the Town, and Isaca the name of the Riuer which fleeteth by it, as Ptolomeus and certain latter writers folowing him: doo suppose & write, though it should seeme rather the Cittie to be called Isaca and the Riuer Isca.
Muncketon was so called by the Saxons, but vpon what reason: it dooth not appéer, others thē that they did at their comming chaunge and alter the names of all or moste parte of places in this land, giuing new names either of Townes or places of the Contrey from whēce they came, or of their owne deuise: or els King Etheldred or King Edgar when they had builded eche of them a Monastery for Muncks: did giue that name.
Exeter was the name which King Adelstane gaue vnto it when he soiourned in this Town calling it so of the riuer Exe, and then it is to say Exeterra the town or soyle of Exe▪
Exancestre is thought to be so called by the Saxons, who commonly and for the moste parte named such Fortes and holdes as they buylded by this woord Cestria, as Cicestria, Dorcestria. Osestria and many other like, for Cestir in the Saxon tung is a Forte, a Town or a Cittie.
Excestrum or Excestre is the name moste now in use, and so [...]amed (as some write) of the Riuer, whiche they write [...] named Excestrum.