HIMATIAPOLEOS. THE TRIVMPHS OF olde Draperie, or the rich Cloathing of ENGLAND. Performed in affection, and at the charges of the right Worthie and first honoured Companie of Drapers: at the enstalment of S r. Thomas Hayes Knight, in the high office of Lord Maior of London, on Satturday, being the 29. day of October. 1614. Deuised and written by A. M. Citizen and Draper of London.
LONDON, Printed by Edward Allde. 1614.
Himatia-Poleos. Or, The Olde Draperie and Clothing of ENGLAND.
IN euery well-gouerned Kingdome and Common-wealth, the chiefest Citie and Citizens therein, haue euermore held the prime place and prioritie; as well in matter of honor, as due right of Antiquity. And as the Lacedemonians, the first instructers of the olde Romaines, and so (from them) we, and all other Nations deriued our forme of rule; As they (I say) made a distinguishing of their most memorable Societies, from other of much lesse note and merite: Euen so this famous Cittie of London, whose continuall teeming wombe (from time to time) brought forth many seuerall Mysteries [Page 2] or Professions, hath referred them all in eminencie of place, to twelue onely. Amongst which twelue gradations of honour and dignitie, the first originall began in the first Companie of all other in this Citie the ancient fellowship or Societie of Drapers.
To approoue the society of Drapers of the first, when (as yet) there was none other: it is auouched by He liued and wrote in the time of king Stephen. William Fitzstephen, Iohn Bale, Roger Houeden, and others, that the Wooll-winder, (who was the olde Draper or Clothier, as borrowed from the word Drappier) did carde and spinne his wooll, then weaue it into cloth, full, rowe, sheare, dresse, and dye it, and sell in afterwards in his shop, performing all these seuerall offices thereto, by himselfe and seruants: which (since then) hath branched it selfe into diuers other Companies, and of one entire Trade or Mysterie, is become many.
Out of this list or band of Drapers, issued Sir Henrie Fitz-Alwine knight, descended from that Alwine, Vnckle to king Edgar, who made him Alderman of all England, when as (till then) the name of Alderman, or Eldermen, was neuer knowen. This Henrie Fitz-Alwine had the first honour to be stiled In the olde Saxon tongue from whence it was deriued, it signifieth Dominus or Lord. Maire, or Maior of London, by favour of King Richard the first, surnamed Cuer de Lyon, and was himselfe (as is crediblie avouched) a Brother of the same Societie, in honour of the man by him so aduanced, before his iourney to the Holie Land. For, vntill his time, [Page 3] the troublesome combustions of the Citie being not fully setled: the gouernment thereof remained first in Portgreues, next in martiall Provosts, thirdly in Bayliffes, and lastly in Lord Maiors, as in meete place is more at large declared.
Heere before I passe any further, it may appeare as a blemish on mine own browe, because in my Booke in the worthie Company of Goldsmiths, I did set downe Henrie Fitz-Alwine, Fitz-Leofstane to be a Goldsmith, and the first Lord Maior of London, alleadging my authoritie for the same in the margent of the same booke, out of The ancient Chronicler of the Citie. Iohn Stowe, which now I may seem to denie, and affirme the same man to be a Draper, to the disgrace of the forenamed Company, and mine owne deepe discredit. What then I did, was by warrant of my fore-alleaged Author, who finding Henrie Fitz-Alwine, Fitz-Leofstane, to bee Maister or Guardian of the kings Mint, did therfore set him downe to bee a Goldsmith; which was no error in me to doe the like, being thereto secured by him, and knowing (as then) no other proofe to the contrary. But hauing per [...] sed more assured authority in the Drapers Hall, that one, not named Henrie Fitz-Alwine Fitz-Leofstane, but Henrie Fitz-Alwine, a brother of the olde Drapers, was Lord Maior of London, foure and twentie yeares and a halfe (by yerely election) and longer had been if he had longer liued, who had also giuen his dwelling house by Londō [Page 4] stone, to his owne free brethren of the Drapers, with an annuity yearely to be paide to the king, out of such land as is held of his by them; and that hee lieth in the parish Church of S. Marie Bothawe buried, the Parish wherein hee liued and died; whereas Iohn Stowe affirmeth him to bee buried in the Priorie of the holy Trinitie, called Christs Church, on the right hand within Aldegate, which is now called the Dukes place. Nay more, Maister Clarentius Cambden, with the aduise of diuers other good Antiquaries beside, hath (vnder his hand and Seale of Office) confirmed him to be none other then a Draper. What more free confession can any man make, then of his blinde misleading by a blinder guide? In whose behalf I dare yet boldly maintaine, that no such error escaped from him wilfully or willingly, his care and endeauour was so great, but mis-information, or incapacitie of reading, may (as it hath done to many) wrong better men then any that are concerned in this case, yet without any preiudice or dishonest taxation.
What offence then may the Companie of Mercers take, who make challenge likewise to the very same man, by mistaking Peter Fitz-Alwine (a Mercer indeed) for Henrie Fitz-Alwine the olde Draper? Or that of the Fishmongers, who deeme their worthy Wallworth, the first Knighted Maior in the field, to be the same man also, and that no man before him was Maior of [Page 5] London? I answere freely for my selfe, and appeale to an especiall Gentleman in the imagined iniured Companie of Goldsmiths (who tooke no meane paines to be resolued in this case) that no certaine assurance could be had therein, but that it remained doubtful between both the Societies. And therefore we personated old Faringdon, not Fitz-Alwine, as the booke yet may be seene, to cut off all such contentious questions. Seeing then that reuerend antiquitie, eminencie of honour, and due right of merit; bestowed so high a dignity vpon the Drapers: I might well be iustly condemned, if I should seeke after any other argument of credit for them (when so maine a busines doth necessarilie require it) then their owne due deseruing, so long time sleeping in obliuion, yet now reuiued, to their endlesse honor.
The walles of any Citty, were termed by the Grocians, according as we title our instant discourse, Himatia Poleos, The Cloathing or garments of the Cittie. Intimating thereby, that as garments and cloathing doe ingirt the body, defending it continually from the extremities of colde and heat: so walles, being the best garments of any Citie, do preserue it from all dangerous annoynances. Here on we lay the foundation of our deuise, in the honour of Draperie the rich Clothing of Englād▪ which (long before the knowledge of fantasticke habites) clothed both Prince & people all a like, to the [...] meane [Page 6] renowne of the Kingdome, and admiration of forraigne nations, to whome our Draperie (abounding in her owne plenty) by meanes of nauigation and commerce, affoorded the rich Liuerie of this land; better imbraced by them, and much more highly esteemed, then all other trafficque whatsoeuer. As well appeared by that famous Knight and trauayler, Sir Frances Drake, who hauing roūded the whole world, and noated the riches & best endowments of euery naon founde none to equall the Draperie and cloathing of England. In regarde whereof, he chose to be a louing Brother of the Drapers Societie, before all other Companies of the Citty. Wherefore our first land deuise is a Shippe, very artificially and workemanly framed, called the Barke-Hayes, fitted with Captaine, Maister, Mate. &c. and supposedly laden with woollen cloathes, to make exchaunge for other Countries best commodities, and thought meet to vsher the way to the residue of the showes, which are directed to follow in this manner.
A beautifull Chariot, drawen by two golden pell [...]tted Lyons, and two golden Woolues Erminnois, after the manner of the triumphall Chariots of the Romaine Emperours, is graced with the supposed shape of King Richard the first, with the seuerall figures of so many Citties in England about him, as conueniencie of place and cariage graunted libertie vnto. Those Citties are disciphered by their Eschuchions of [Page 7] Armes, and that their best aduantage euer ensued by making of woollen Cloathes, for the continuall maintenance of Englands Draperie. But London sitting neerest vnto himselfe, as chiefe Mother and matrone of them all: he honours the head of his chiefest Chamber, with a triple imperiall Crowne of golde, vnder battelled or branched with Cloudes, and beames of the Sunne, being the Armes of the Drapers Societie, and declaring his loue and fauour bestowed on her, by his aduauncement of Sir Henrie Fitz-Alwine to the Maioraltie, in whom began the olde Drapers dignitie.
After this Chariot, followeth a Pageant or goodly Monument, figuring the whole estate of Londons olde Draperie. In the supreame and most eminent seate, sitteth Himatia, of Cloathing, as Mother, Lady and commaundresse of all the rest, who by their distinct emblemes and properties, (apted for the easiest apprehension) doe expresse their dutie and attendance on so gratious a person, in their seuerall places and offices to them belonging; As in Carding, Spinning, Weauing, Rowing, Fulling, Shearing Dressing, Dying, Tentering and performing all other seruices to woollen Cloathes, which at first was done onely by the Draper, or Clothier. Peace, Plentie, Liberalitie, Councell and Discreet Zeale, doe supporte the florishing condition of Himatiaes Common-wealth, and striue to preuent all occasions which may [Page 8] seeme sinister or hurtfull thereto.
Our deuise which wee spake last of, and yet is appointed the first in seruice, serueth both for the water and land. Till the yeare 1453. the L. Maiors of London vsed to ride on horsebacke to Westminster, at such time as each one went to take his oath. But S. Iohn Norman Draper, being then Maior, at his owne cost and charge, and for the reliefe of poore Watermen, who were much distressed in those daies: made a very goodly Barge for himselfe and his Brethren, to be rowed therein by water to Westminster, and so to continue for a yearely custome. It was a costly Barge, and the Oares are said to bee couered with siluer: in memorie whereof, and the honest benefite yerely found thereby: the Watermen made a pleasant song called, Rowe thy Boate Norman, &c. This honour beginning likewise in the Draper, and falling out so fitly to helpe our invention: in a goodly faire Barge, made meete for the purpose, attendeth the supposed shadow of Sir Iohn Norman, with the seauen liberall Sciences (all attired like graceful Ladies) sitting about him, vntill such time as the Lord Maior commeth to take water, and then he saluteth him with this speech.
S. Iohn Normans speech on the Water.
VVElcome to the water, worthy Brother Draper. Imagine me to be the true resemblance of olde S. Iohn Norman, sometime Lord Maior of this famous Cittie, and the first that deuised this water honour, making my Barge at mine owne proper cost, and rowed with siluer Oares to Westminster, when (as you now) I then went to take mine oath. In regard whereof, I was the first Maior, that was presented to the Barons, of the Exchecquer. The imaginarie shapes of the seauen liberall Sciences, each one distinguished by their true charracter, are placed as my companions in my Barge: in memorie of the loue I euer bare to learning, and no meane bounties by me extended for the maintenance thereof. I ioy, that inuention would make vse of my remembrance in this manner, to doe any seruice to so desertfull a Brother, and to the Companie of Drapers which I dearly affected. On then my hearts, and as in those elder dayes you declared your loue to olde Iohn Norman: so expresse somewhat nowe to delight my honourd Brother, singing cheerfully, Rowe thy Boate Norman.
Which beeing no sooner ended, but diuers sweet singing youths, belonging to the maister that enstructeth the yong Quiristers of Pauls, being [Page 10] all attired in faire wrought wastcoates, and caps belonging also to them, each hauing a siluer Oare in his hand; do sing a most sweet dittie of Rowe thy Boate Norman, and so seeme to rowe vp along to Westminster, in honour of the Lord Maiors attendance.
For the seuerall peales of Ordinance, which make better report in the aire, then they can be expressed by pen: For the Drums, Fifes, Trumpets, and other musicall Instruments, whereof each Company maketh their choice, to grace this honourable seruice out and home againe, in the true affection of louing Citizens, not suffering their chiefe Magistrate to want any part of their kinde respect and furtherance: they can much better speake for themselues then I, and serue but as a breathing time to mee, vntill my Lords returne and landing. When all our deuises being martialled in order, according as wee haue formerly related, except a goodly Ramme or Golden Fleece, with a Sheepheard sitting by it; as occation serueth, deliuereth his intention in this ensuing speech.
The Sheepheard.
VVHy gaze yee so vpon me! am I not a man flesh, bloud, and bone, as you are? Or in these silken sattin Townes, are poore plaine meaning Sheepheards woondred at, like Comets or blazing Starres▪ Or is it this [Page 11] goodly beast by me, that fills your eyes with admiration? If it be so, let me then resolue ye, that it is an article of dutie which we Shepheards of Cotswold owe to the old Drapers of Londō, for keping their flocks on the Cotswold hills, that whē any worthy Brother of their Society comes to be L. Maior of this City, the very fairest Ram in all their flocks is sent vnto them as a solemne offring, as being the Crest of their Companies Armes, and the chiefe maintainer of Wooll for cloathing. In which respect, my Father about some six and twenty yeares since, when S. Martin Calthrope (a Brother of the same Society) was Lord Maior, brought then the like goodly. Ramme as his oblation; and I hearing, that his man S. Thomas Hayes, and another Martin, Maister Martin Lumley (by the blessing of heauen and their owne vertuous endeauours) were the next chosen Brethren of the same Band, the one to succeed in the selfe same dignitie of the Maioraltie, and the other of the Shriuealty; haue brought this as my hearts free offring, in honour of them that so dearely affect them, and in my dutie to them both, with all my vtmost seruice beside. For thus say we in Catswolde.
For, if wee haue no Ramme, wee are sure to haue no Lambe: no Lambe, no Wooll: no wooll, no Cloth: no Cloth, no Draper.
As meane additions, to giue some small Iuster to the Showe, because ouer many were thought inconuenient; we make vse of a golden pelletted Lyon, a supporter to the Companies Armes, with a Champion mounted on his back, and a golden woolfe Erminnois, the Ensigne or Imprese belonging to the Lord Maiors Creast. And with these fewe slender deuises, we vsher his Honors way toward Guilde-Haule; vntill he come to S. Laurence-Lane, where the figure of S. Henrie Fitz-Alwine, thus fauourably stayeth him.
The solemnitie of so pompous a feast being finished, and his Honor (according to yearelie custome) returning towards Paules, with all the former conceits gracefully borne before him: he is mildlie sollicited for a minutes stay by old Sir Iohn Norman, who (in this manner) giueth him a reason for it.
The Speech at the little Conduit in the afternoone, at my Lords going to Paules.
HOnorable Lord and Brother, it is imposed on olde Iohn Norman, brieflie to discribe these two beautifull deuises to yee. In the first, which manifesteth the Honor of Draperie, your well iudging eye may easily conceiue, each person by their apt distinguishment. The Mother, Olde Draperie, with her Daughters and attendants placed about her, doe deliuer the Drapers true antiquitie, and that which he and his onely performed, is since become the benifit of diuers trades or occupations. Carding, Spinning, Weauing, Fulling, Rowing, Shearing, Dressing, Dying, Tentering, and what [Page 16] else appertained to wollen cloath, was the auncient Drapers sole profession, and the chiefe honour of this famous Kingdome: flourishing thereby in so many happy blessings, and so fortefied by Peace, Plenty, Bountie, Councell and Discreete Zeale, that all other nations sate and admired thereat. You haue a taste of this felicity in that other Deuise, beautified with the chiefe Clothing Cities of this Land, for maintenance of auncient Draperie, whereof London sitteth the highest aduaunced, as being his choyce Chamber that first made a Draper the onely Gouernor thereof. I am loath to hold yee long, and well I wot, more ample relation hath beene made vnto yee; and therefore to God and your good deuotions I heartily commend yee.
Night folding vp bright day in dimme mantles of darkenesse, and those diuine ceremonies ended, which waite as Henchmen on that daies duetie, the Starres seeme to leaue their places in their fixed Spheares, and become as so many bright flaming Torches to grace our worthy Magistrate home, euen to his house, (as it were) in the malice of blacke-fac'd night, and to further the finishing of so solemne a Tryumph, which endeth with this humble farewell giuen to his Honor.
The Speech deliuered to the Lord Maior at parting.
Thus the worthy and first honoured Company of Drapers, hauing (in louing and bountifull manner) declared their kinde affection to as affable a Magistrate: I may not omit one thing more, wherein the duteous respect of themselues, and loue to the Citie very manifestly approoued their worth: for, when many solemne meetings haue beene made in the Guild Hall, for election of a Sheriffe by common consent, and as many refusalls still hapning day by day, to the great disquiet of the Companies, and mighty delay of time; yet when no one would vndergoe the Office and charge, a Draper hath done it, worthily and willingly, though no Aldermans place as then was voyd, witnesse Maister Benedict Barneham, a learned and iudicious Gentleman, who chearefully vndertooke the Shrieualty in Anno 1591. Next, Maister Henrie Iaye, but a yeare since, and Maister Martin Lumley now Sheriffe of London, all of them louing Brethren of the Drapers Society.
To conclude, as the seuerall Inuentions (with all their weakenesses and imperfections) were mine owne: so the worth and credit of their performance (if any may waite on so meane a businesse) belongeth to the exact and skilfull [Page 19] Painter Maister Rowland Bucket, whose care, diligence, and faithfull dealing I must needs commend, and should wrong him ouermuch if I did not giue him due praise to his merit. (*⁎*)