CHAPTER I.

THE antiquitie of Woll with­in this Kingdome hath beene, beyond the memorie of man, so highly respected for those many benefits therein, that a customable vse hath alwayes been obserued to make it the seat of our wise learned Iudges in the sight of our noble Peeres, within the place where all whole­some lawes are established for the good gouerne­ment of this kingdome, The Parlia­ment house. to imprint the memorie of this worthie commoditie within the mindes of those firme Supporters and chiefe Rulers of the Land, who euer from time to time haue with greatest care prouided for the maintenance there­of, as a blessing sent from Almightie God vpon this nation more than all the people in the world, whose [Page 2]mercie in preseruation of those cattell is showne by the suppression of rauening Wolues and deuou­ring beasts (enemies to those harmelesse and vnresi­sting flockes) which other countries, to their great dammage, doe harbour vnremedilesse: so that no kingdome whatsoeuer can speake so happily of this benefit as this realme, who findeth it the rich mans increase, and the poore mans comfort, in such an ex­cellent nature, the quantitie so much as serueth all nations in the world, and the qualitie so good, as is chiefely desired of all, working a generall fame, and most profitable traffique to this Land, that it may be rightly called, The English India. The depth of be­nefit in this royall commoditie, was a long time ob­scured within this kingdom through ignorance and negligence of our people in those dayes, who suffe­red the transportation therof vnto a more ingenious nation, which made farre greater benefit by their la­bour, than those whom God had freely sent it vnto: For when it was conuerted from the sheeps backe, fit for mans back, it was returned by them to this realm at a treble rate, onely increased by their industrie; which shameful course brought great scandal of our idlenesse: Like men that would lay no hand to the plough, and women that would set no hand on the wheele, deseruing the censure of wise Salomon, Hee that would not labour should not eat. But least I should [...]nne too farre in the judgement hereof, I doe call both their ignorance and negligence in question not knowing which was greater; but rather [Page 3]impute it to their ignorance, which appeared by the remedie procured by diuers prouident and worthie kings, who drew diuers skilfull workemen out of those foreine parts, to direct these vnskilfull people, which in short time grew perfect in this mystery, and hath euer sithence so mightily increased, that it is at this instant the glorie of our traffique, and mainte­nance of our poore, many hundred thousands de­pending wholly on the same; chiefe pillar to our Princes reuenue, the life of our Merchant, the li­uing of our Clothier, and the meanes of sustenance to most trades and poore, whose bread is gained by these imployments. The excellent qualitie of wooll is like most fertill ground that will beare all fruits, affoording the most ingenious wits to work vpō his nature, so that daily new deuises are yeelded therby to euery inuenter. It affoords raiment, nay rich robes for the greatest Princes, and also warme clothing for the meanest personages, being wroght to the height, in worth it makes rich silke seeme foreine rags; and in ordinarie manner it serueth the necessitie and vse of all: so that the excrement of the worme may not compare with the fleece of the sheepe, although the labour and industrie of man makes it the heigth of pride, yet in riches, comelinesse, & profitable wea­ring it comes farre short of a perfect fine wollen cloth, which although all cannot be so, yet all ser­ueth the necessarie vse of all sorts, from the Prince to the poore, and no part vnprofitable or deceitfull in it selfe, but often abused by the wicked practises of de­ceitfull [Page 4]people, as shall be hereafter described, wish­ing a due respect of the commoditie, and care to continue the credit thereof.

CHAP. II. The condition of the Makers, being two sorts.

WHen the vse of Clothing was planted here, some in all parts of the Realme vndertooke the profession: The number was but small for a long time, but found such good successe on their labours, as they mightily increased in fame and riches, chiefe comforters to the aged, and trainers vp of youth, their houses fre­quented like Kings Courts, their tables replenished like feasts, their hospitalitie bountifull, and in all these their cariage plaine and honest, yet with such plentie and content, that royall Kings haue bin high­ly pleased with their entertainment. Then was true dealing held in great estimation, and deceit hateful­ly loathed. These men cōmonly made their recourse to London weekely, who might haue beene stran­gers one to another in regard of their distance in dwelling, yet proued brethren by reason of their profession. Their conference of meeting was to vp­hold their credits by truth, & their care how to sup­presse [Page 5]falshood, least hee should steale into their trades. Happiest was he that could win most com­mendatiō by desert; so that their marks made their markets, and their merchants their suiters to hold on their custom. Whilest this course continued the trade flourished, and Gods blessing abounded on all dealers therein: But corrupting time (more apt in stooping to vice than mounting to vertue) not one­ly infected some of this Fraternitie with the know­ledge of deceit, but also stirred other intruders in this trade, who greedie of such apparent gaine, ob­tained by the well deseruers, vsurped the name of Clothiers, without the knowledge of the true course, but well studied in fraud, which practise they intended should supply their want of knowledge, to equal that gaine formerly obtained, more respecting their present profit than all future good, nor making conscience of the meanes, so they possest the mat­ter. This viperous sort doth too much increase in these daies, the onely breeders of all enormities in this trade & Cōmonwealth, & like caterpillers de­stroy the fruits of the earth, or like drones which wast the honie of the labouring Bee; whose mis­chiefe must be preuented, or else in short time all be­nefits herein wil be made frustrat. But more of these abusers when their abuses shalbe in question: only it may be said of Clothiers, as of the tongues which Aesop bought, the worst meat and the best; so of the good Clothier and the bad: how lamenta­ble thing it is, that the priuate gaine of one should [Page 6]bee the preiudice of thousands: where truth and equitie decayes the people soone perish, and pi­tie it were but the law should be a sharpe bridle to curbe such disordered men. If lawlesse libertie were allowable wee should not differ from beasts, nor distinguish good from bad: our reason and re­ligion leads vs to better knowledge, and daily expe­rience of Gods fauour towards truth should draw vs to imbrace it.

We haue a president within this Realme to lead vs to a true course from that nation which were our first tutors to the trade, who now make a commodi­tie among vs of our Woolls; which, by reason of their slightnesse and small value, might be esteemed vnworthie of wearing, yet by their good obserua­tion in making, searching, and sealing, it is so vp­held and maintained, that it is more vendible than any cloth we make, and so farre voyd of deceit, that any man, although vnskilfull, may buy it without preiudice or losse. Looke into their liues and con­ditions, you shall find them religious towards God, dutifull to our Prince, louing one towards ano­ther, and harmelesse to all men, onely enemies to fraud and idlenesse, which they doe not onely hate in others, but punish seuerely in themselues. They keepe together, and disperse not in many places, to the end one gouernement shall rule them; but in two places within this Realme doe they make their congregations, Sandwich and Colchester. where it were a wonder to behold, so many people to maintaine themselues on so [Page 7]flight a trade, yet neuer a begger amongst them. They haue no Statute Law to bind them, but or­ders amongst themselues, which are so duely exe­cuted, without partialitie, that their rich are not fa­uoured, nor their poore oppressed. Their search in that commoditie is threefold, one from the Loome, one from the milling, or thickening, and one from the dressing; and where offence is made, there pu­nishment is sure. What would these people doe if they had the making & ordering of our rich clothes of great value, that can bring such slight ware in that estimation? But as wee are farre from inuenting good, so are we vnapt to imitate it, though neuer so plainely taught vs before our eyes.

It hath beene seene that a foreine cloth being made, and not falling out to the full goodnesse in­tended, the maker hath affixed a peece of siluer to that peece, of such value as should counteruaile the want of worth: But we are more readie in greedie manner to take away from a cloth, when it is too bad before.

Now as herein the Clothier and maker is taxed, the Marchants and buyer cannot escape vntouched; For as there are good of both sorts (whose number are too few) so there are extreame bad (which, with­out amendment, might be well spared): There is no more difference betweene a bad Clothier and a bad Merchant, than betweene a theefe and his receiuer; for as the one commits vnlawfull crimes, the other maintaines it by concealements, nay more, pro­cures [Page 8]him thereunto. Many Merchants are of that disposition, that they more respect their present gain than the good of all others, looking vpon the cheap­nesse, and not on the goodnesse of what they buy; casting vpon their gaine of mony, and not on their gaine of credit, whereas both might easily be obtai­ned. Let a Clothier haue a new trick of deceit, con­trarie to law, and preiudiciall to the generall good, if it may be a particular profit, although not dura­ble, that man shalbe sure of entertainement: if hee feare discouerie, or to bee caught by the law, these Merchants haue infinit deuises to make it walke in­uisible; if Argus eyes were watchfull ouer them, yet haue they mists to blind them all: But God, who is the vpholder of truth, wil one day bring these hidden mischiefes to light, and turne this wicked gaine to shame and losse.

CAP. 3. The antiquity of the Alneger with his power.

BEfore the making of Cloth within this Land, the Alneger was ordained, who exercised that office vpon al cloths com­ming from foreine parts, to measure and trie them where they were put on lād. The en­terpretation of his name Alneger shewes the na­ture of his office as onely measurer appointed. 2. Ed. 3, cap. 14. For a long time his authoritie was caried by proclama­tion, before any Parliament was holden: his fee was not then giuen him, but allowance from the Lord Treasurer and Barons of Eschequer, according to his paines and care: his charge was to see all clothes of assise marked, and those not of assise and defe­ctiue, to bee taken into his hands for the King, 2. Ed. 3. cap. 14. al­though in the presence of any Maior, Bailife, or o­ther magistrate, wherein his credit and trust reposed by the King was explaned.

When the making of those Clothes were drawne hither, and dayly increased, the King found great losse in his customes; for that the wools of those Clothes being before transported, did yeeld much custome, and the like answered vpon returne [Page 10]of the Cloth, which double benefit to the king was lost, although it brought much good to the com­mon wealth by the subjects imployment. Vpon due consideration hereof, a subsidie was graunted vnto the king and his successours vpon all Clothes made within the Realme, foure pence vpon euerie cloth, and two pence on euerie halfe Cloth: besides, a Subsidie vpon all graine colours, 27. E. 3. cap. 14. as appeareth by that Statute at large: the collection whereof was ap­pointed to the Alneger, as the most fittest man for it, being the kings onely officer for those affaires: at which times he had also his fee of a halfepenie on euerie Cloth giuen him, with a reseruation of all his former power and charge both for the king and re­formation of abuses.

Now it is to be considered what value a halfepe­nie was in those dayes, and what the seruice was to be performed for it: All the paynes he tooke, was but to cast a Lyne of seuen yards foure times ouer the Cloth in length, and to measure the bredth then appointed, which he continued a long time: then were the faults but few, and easily-supprest; but in time grew like Hydras heads, in cutting off one, ma­ny sprung vp in the stead, that the defects num­bred so fast vpon him, as put him to endlesse trouble.

And in regard his place stood vpon two distinct of­fices, the one to collect the Susidie, wherein was no farthing charge; the other was the executing of the Alnage, which tied him by great penalties to per­forme [Page 11]truely: he finding the paines so much to make reformation in so many defects, and of such diuersi­ties, with his fee too small to counteruaile his dan­ger and trouble, did voluntarily forgoe the executi­on of his office, and onely betooke himselfe to the collection of the Subsidie: and hauing two Seales appointed him seuerally, one with the kings armes for the Subsidie, the other with the true content and search for the Alnage, he would afterward onely set on the kings seale, leauing his search and fee, to be freed of his prejudice; which neglect of his gaue way to those which practised those deceipts, and in time grew to that highth, as the whole common wealth felt the smart thereof; and forced all sorts ap­pertayning to those trades to seeke for redresse, and to make seuere Lawes for the punishment of those deceits, appointing searchers and ouer-seers for that purpose, with diuers orders concerning the same; and perceiuing that the small fee of the Alneger caused him to neglect the search, the fee was aug­mented from a halfepenie to two pence, and so for a time carefully executed: but the former mis­chiefe, which caused the prouision of those Lawes and orders, in short time crept in againe, more daungerous, and the office of search worse exe­cuted with the fee of two pence than before with the Alnegers farthing: better it were such search should bee forborne, than so faslly perfourmed, nor will it euer be truely executed but by the Al­neger, who hath euer brought all questions and [Page 12]punishment vpon all faults yet brought to light. The Alneger is fittest for that place considering his credit and trust with the Kings Seale, which hee is made Chauncellor of for that purpose, and that all the imputation of false Cloth and false sealing is laid vpon it; so that both our nation and our Kings imperiall armes are scandalized in all foreine parts. How carefull haue former Kings been to haue the Alneger sufficient in all points: 1. R. 3. cap. 8. First to bee expert in knowledge, then sufficient in wealth, and that no Alneger of any Countie or Citie should bee lesse worth than an hundred pounds, if hee were of such value, to the King; and in those daies his credit was little inferiour to most of the Iustices where hee a­bode: Then had hee his priuiledge to make his ac­compts but once a yeare, whatsoeuer was in his hands: And so fauoured, to passe those accomps in his highnesse Eschequer, without charge or fee: be­sides he must be the Kings naturall subiect, no alien to bee permitted thereunto. This was intended for those that did execute the place: but for those which should receiue the reuenue and profits royall, choise hath been made of such, as appeares vpon re­cords, that the Queen of this Realme and the duke of Buckingham hath been interessed therein for some part of the Kingdome. And in euerie Parlia­ment where statutes were ordained, the Alnegers power and priuiledge still preserued: this charge, credit, trust, and prouision must of force drawe his care beyond those slight searchers of small credit: [Page 13]But the offendors and those which practise deceit, thinke the Alneger too busie in his place, seeking to suppresse, his power by all meanes they can. There was of late yeres a notorious felō within this realm, who hauing committed many vnlawfull outrages, and desirous to continue so, would haue the Lord chiefe Iustice bound to the peace, offering to take his othe that hee did not onely seeke to depriue him of his meanes of liuing but also sought his life; so if they could bind the Alneger to the peace, they could make a trade of falshood without controle­ment: But by too much sufferance of this hurt, the common wealth is wounded, the best sort seeking meanes to heale it, but they like gald-backe Iades, kicke at those which come to cure them. The gol­den snuffers of the law is put into the Alnegers hand, who must make vse of them, and howsoeuer they snuffe, hee will snuffe too, and cleere the light which shall shew them the way to trueth. In this he shall stirre vp the sting of enuious tongues whose venome cannot hurt him, but procure the praiers of the best which shall receiue comfort thereby.

The most reuerent Diuine, if he touch the finnes of the wicked to the quick, shall sooner moue them to railing than to reformation, but the malice of euil people is not to be regarded. Here might question bee made, wherefore the Alneger should now stirre more than of late times: It was his vsuall course, to take his money for the seale and so to bee quiet: Why should he trouble himselfe with such labour [Page 14]that will breed enuie to him, and vexation to others. It must be aunswered that although hee hath long time lyen a sleepe, the necessitie of the time, and loud clamours of abuses hath awakt him. His charge and duetie to the office, his seruice to the King, his maintenaunce of the trade that must mayntaine him, and benefit to the common wealth, sets him on foot to performe that which no o­ther can doe: wherein hee will ay me at two things, the general good, and his priuat profit. Since his for­bearance much power and profit hath been drawne from him by vsurpation, which he may easily reco­uer, as braunches pluckt from his bodie. The measu­ring of silke, linnen, yea and of some sorts of wollen cloth, are made petty offices, and held by those which haue no right thereunto. Euerie in­feriour Magistrate will take vpon him to establish offices, which shall contradict the appointment of the King and his Lawes. Who is the measurer of all saleable Clothes, or all commodities mea­surable, but onely hee? not onely appointed by seuerall Statutes, but also confirmed by the kings graunt by letters patents. It is appointed an of­fice at the common Law, 1 [...] I. 2. by graunt from the king: And that the Warden of the Alnage should de­liuer yearely to the Lord Treasurour the estreates of his office, containing all the faults hee found of Clothes throughout the Realm: The same King did also graunt the Alnage of all Canuas and linnen cloth to Tho. Dewight, in the 1. yere of his raigne, [Page 15]and afterward in the fourteenth yere of his raigne to one Symond of Darlington, and also another patent for the Alnage of all manner of outlandish Cloth, to one Iohn Griffen in the seuenteenth yere of his raigne, as may appeare vpon the seuerall re­cords in the Tower of London. If the Alneger did but a while forbeare his collection of the sub­sidie also, some forged authoritie would lay claime to that too; but sufferance cannot suppresse right, the one office being as truely due as the other, 25. E. 3. cap. 1. and so many Lawes to confirme it, which also bindes him vpon othe to performe it: who shall then deny or contend against him when hee shall claime his right and performe his place? As he may receiue both subsidie and alnage vpon all sorts of woollen commodities, so may hee receiue the alnage fee vp­on all other sorts of Cloth and commodities mea­surable and saleable, from the finest silk to the cour­sest hempe: much of that due is taken in some places frō him, which must giue way when he please to take place: nor shall he need much difficultie to decide that right being so apparāt & plaine in his behalfe: at all times when questiō hath bin made of his right or power, the leaned Iudges of this lād haue confirmed the same, as appeareth by many seueral decrees. The antient laws made for alnage causes, may fitly be cō ­pared to the wil & testament of deceased kings, who bequeathed to their subiects the benefit of iustice and vpright dealing, wherein the Alneger is made [Page 16]sole executor: and although by some later lawes there hath been searchers apointed as ouerseers to assist the Alneger in the better performance of this will, they like idle and carelesse ministers, accor­ding to the course of such ouerseers put in trust, haue superficially past ouer that charge to no purpose, but rather looking after their legacie of two pence on a cloth: the which the Alneger must abridge them of as vnworthie by their negligence to receiue it, and hee himselfe take vpon him to see the will performed, beeing held thereunto by three princi­pall reasons: First, the trust from the King with his seale, and collection of his Subsidies, Fines, and Forfeitures: Secondly, his charge not to set on that seale but vpon perfect and sizable cloth, and to take the contrarie into his hands for the kings vse: Thirdly, his daunger of the penaltie, if hee per­forme not this charge, which are great fines, and the losse of his place: So hee must bee the man to giue vnto the subiect length, breadth, weight, and goodnesse, or else to punish the offendor, and giue the buyer knowledge of the fault; For want hereof he is most taxed and blamed on all parts, not with­out iust cause, for where should this benefit be re­ceined, but from him beeing authorised, and ap­pointed for the same. To conclude, his seruice true­ly performed herein would proue a large fountaine of good, to his small drop of benefit.

CHAP. 4. The manner of search and searchers now vsed.

THe Law hath effectually proui­ded for the search in all points, that in euerie place where cloth is made and fold, two, foure, six, or eight shall bee appointed for the search thereof, that it be ar­cording to law. Those search­ers to bee able and sufficient in wealth and know­ledge, that they shall be sworne to doe it vprightly? and bound in fortie pounds a peece, not to neglect it, that they shal performe that search, once in euery moneth at the least, and enter into the houses, shops, or other places which harbour any cloth, there to feeke for faultie cloth which might otherwise bee concealed or hidden from them, and great penaltie laid on those which shall resist or denie any of them. For those clothes which are sealed by them, the law directs their order, appointing the seuerall penal­ties on euerie fault, and how the same shall bee dis­posed. If the Magistrates or Iustices of any place neglect the choise of such searchers, then a penaltie is laid on them for that default: But this search and orders are grossely abused in seueral kindes. In many places are no searchers at all appointed: In some [Page 18]places the Clothiers and makers keepe a searched seale of their owne, to set on what they please: but in most places those searchers chosen are vnsufficient in knowledge to performe their place, or in ability to answere the penalties; if they be of knowledge, then are they such which be seruants, or workmen to those Clothiers or makers which are the offenders, whom they dare not punish nor offend: and to auoide their breach of oath, will send boies or other like people to performe their place, and set on the seale; else will they lend that seale to euerie one which demands it, by which meanes they saue their oathes in seeing no faults, and for their bonds they prouide for the safe­ty of them, by a combination betweene the Clothi­ers & themselues, none can challenge them, but those which will keepe their counsell; when any choise is to be made, then are the clothiers suiters to the Iusti­ces for such men as they nominate, which are accor­ding to their owne hearts, which request of theirs is seldome denied: So there are often chosen Taylors, glouers, tanners, butchers, smiths, or such like, which haue no judgement at all in Cloth, nor the place. If malefactors of the Law might chuse their Iudge and Iurie, they would seldome be cast. The best search made by the searchers in any place, is but to cast the Clothes into skales to see if they be weight or no, which if any do want, the clothier supplies that want with stones, bricks, lead, leaden weights, and other ponderous things which they cōuey into light cloth to make it hold weight, which is easily done in regard [Page 19]those cloths brought to their beame, are alwais made vp hard with tacking and binding, that without o­pening, those deceits cannot be found, which they neuer doe, yet ought to see the cloth quight through from end to end, and to notifie the faults vpon the seale. If by chance a fault appeares vnto them which they cānot auoid, seeing, for they striue to let al passe in such sort as their knowledge shold not be charged then do they punish the clothier for that fault, as the Frier whipt the Nun with a Fox taile, but there is not one fault amongst a thousand called in question. A­gaine, if question be made in some places, then doth the Major there take vpon him more than the Lord Treasurer, to determin the cause, claiming a right vn­to all these sorf. due to them, and so as it were hold an exchequer in euerie pettie town: in other places, the Iust. of Peace decide those causes at their quarter sessions, and so complaints past ouer according as the offendors make friends with them. To maintaine this authoritie, they take hold o [...] the statute of 39 El. c. 20. But that branch is repealed by 4. Iac. cap. 2. yet still by them put in practise. One principal thing is to be cō ­sidered, That so many thousands of defectiue cloths made within this realme, as the smart thereof is too truely found, yet are there none presented in the kings Majesties Exchequer, but the abuses still main­tained, the common wealth wronged, the king de­priued of his benefit, and the offendors escape with­out punishment, all this is certaine, and well knowne to all men.

CHAP. 5. The seuerall faults and abuses practized in Cloth.

IN discouering of deceit, some cauilling humour may obiect, it will rather serue for instruction to farther practize than preuen­to future harme. It is aunswe­red, that those practitioners in these abuses are so deepely ex­perienced therein, beeing in common vse of them, as all other wits can giue them no more direction. The purpose heere intended, is to vnmaske the face of falshoode: which seemes that it is not, and to giue knowledge thereof to those that are wronged. The art of Conycatching was a secret Mysterie, vn­till a booke of discouerie came forth, which could not teach them who were perfect in their lesson without booke, but cause the simple to see, and the wisest to shunne their subtle snares prouided to catch their gulls. The cause heere handled is nothing inferiour to theirs in cunning, but much more be­yond them in preiudice, by the many more in num­ber which feele the smart therof; wishing this briefe relation might so effectually reueale the deceits, as it might publiquely bee knowne aswell no those which indure the damage as them which commit [Page 21]the crimes: and although euery particular fault can­not bee heere described, by reason of their numbers (which were too tedious) yet the principals shall bee touched vpon which the rest depend: hee that seeth a tree may easily viewe the bodie but hardly number the leaues, but the tree beeing fel­led the leaues soone die.

Herewithall a difference must bee noted be­tweene the opinion of some people, and the true intent of the law. There are many sorts of cloth or stuffes lately inuented, which haue got newe god fathers to name them in fantasticall fashion, that they which weare them, know not how to name them, which are generally called newe draperie, what hold canne the lawe take of them? In the first lawe, the cloth raye was vnderstood and colo­red clothes what sizes they should contain in length and breadth; since that time prouision made by lawes, for broad clothes, kersies, dozens, peni­stones, cottons, and such like to containe length, breadth, and weight appointed: but these new deuices are out of the reach of those lawes, and free to bee made as it shall please the maker with­out contradiction. To answere the same, the brigi­nall and ground is to bee vnderstood, the wooll paies subsidie, and the leugth of euerie peece al­lowes alnage, and although the conuerting of wools (whose condition yields to diuers inuentions) be al­tered from clothes to stuffes, shal the king lose his subsidy, or the Alneger his see? no, it was long time [Page 22]since ordained by statute, that all sorts of clothes, although not of assise, should pay subsidie and al­nage. And now of late yeres, the said new deui­ses are growne to that quantitie as the old sort of clothing is much impaired, and that greatly increa­sed, which is not to bee discommended, in regard it vents our woolles, and imploies our people. But if gouernement and orders were not proui­ded to maintaine it, in short time wee should find that as the same had eaten out the auntient dra­pery; so falshood would ruyne that, and leaue the people without imployment. Why should there bee a distinguishment betweene old drapery and newe, when the law allowes but one draperie: As the condition of water may bee conueied diuers waies by riuers, springs, conduits, wells, pumpes, fountaines, pipes, ponds, and a number of seuerall meanes, yet no alteration of the nature thereof; so may woolls bee conuerted into diuers properties: but yet the end and purpose of the same, to serue mans vse and wearing as broadcloth and auntient cloth did. If wee should haue a new law for euerie new name of stuffe now made and named, the king must keepe a perpetuall Parliament to ordaine for them. There was of late a mad braind felowe which came by a company of workemen that were digging vp of a well to plant a pumpe in the place; hee de­maunded who set them a worke, they answered the parson, churchwardens, and maisters of the parish; he replyed againe they vnderstood not themselues, [Page 23]for thereby they should bee forced to alter their church booke, wherein it was written, Praise God all yee springs and wells, and now it must bee Praise God all yee springs and pumps; which fry­uolous and vaine question of his, may bee compa­red to their exception, which will goe no farther then the word of the law, and neuer looke to the true intent of the same. 39. El. cap. 20. A Statute was lately made concerning the abuses of clothes, wherein orders were prouided, that all sorts of clothes should be truely searched, and their iust contents of length and weight set vpon euerie peece with the word searched, vpon paine of forfeiture. This law inten­ded the generall good and reformation of all: yet in regard there was but two counties nominated, or a certaine circuit expressed which did before time most offend in those points; all offendors in other places would stop that lawe from going any farther. 43. El. cap. 10. Wherefore the next Parliament fol­lowing vnderstanding that lawe to concerne the generall good, as well as vnto the former limita­tion, did make the same act to respectiuely ex­tend vnto all and singular woollen broad clothes, halfe clothes, Kersies, Cottons, Dozens, Penistones, Frizes, Rugges, and all other woollen clothes of what nature, kind, or name soeuer they bee, or shall bee made, and to bee made within this Realme to bee viewed, sealed, searched, and sub­iected, to penalties, in such like manner and forme and to such purpose and intents, respectiuely as [Page 24]was limited to those clothes prouided for in the former lawe, now whether can those newe dra­peries flie to shroud themselues from the reach of this lawe, theit new names cannot helpe them; if they bee called by any name, the lawe takes hold of them, or of any nature to serue any purpose the law takes hold of them, they canne then pleade no pri­uiledge to free them from this law and orders, but in yeelding obedience with true obseruance finde peace and happinesse. The cause of this relation is to shew that some of these old deceits are practised in the new deuised stuffe, wherefore as needefull to be reformed as the other; & so proceede thereunto.

Woolles beeing an excellent commoditie of it selfe, and naturally without deceit, is commonly abused by mingling in diuers kinds, Deceit in ming­ling of woolles sometime fleece wools, fell wooll, and lambs wooll which are con­trarie one to an other are put together, which makes the cloth vneuen, cockley, pursey, baudy, and rewey.

Then the mingling of fine floxe with long wools yet course, which beeing carded together doth holde spinning and working but most deceitfull in vse and wearing. The vse of short thrums is likewise so ordered, which they take and shred into short length, and then lay it in steepe in strong lye or liquor which openeth the threds into wooll a­gaine, then card it with other wooll which is worse than the flox by making more vneuen in the spin­ning.

[Page 25]This abuse hath been put in practize so intolle­rable, that it is certainely knowne clothes haue been made with two parts, floxe and thrums, and but one part in wooll; which hath seemed good to the eye, but in the wearing such weake strength as would not endure a fourth part of time like the per­fit cloth. If any make question, whether those flox, thrums, or sorts of wooll should bee cast away or not put to vse: It is knowne that seuerall sorts of commodities are appointed wherein they may bee lawfully put to vse, and verie vendible; but they with wicked purpose conuert them to great gaine, but greater hurt, worse than casting drosse into fine gold, which is easily found by the basenesse, and may bee purified againe, but this abuse is like a poyson not found till past cure.

Deceits in the weaning. The long thrums left of broadcloth which can­not be wrought to that shortnesse of narrow cloths, those are cunningly knit together & mingled with other yarne of better nature, making the one helpe out the other, for the ease of workemanship: the in­conuenience whereof is verie hurtfull, for by reason of the many knots in such clothes, which after the scouring are most of them burled out, and after­wards shut vp againe by the mill; but not so helped, but couered for a time, when this cloth comes to wearing, in short time proues full of holles and vn­seruiceable in wearing.

In slaying of their warps they will cast the yarne to proue fine about a foot broad by the listes, which [Page 26]is so far as commonly the merchant or buyer lookes into them, nor can they hauing the clothes pleigh­ted and bound together with threds, which will suffer no farther search into them, vnlesse they should cut them vp, which is seldome or neuer done, the rest of the cloth wrapt through with a far cour­ser yarne verie deceiuably. A common thing it is for the weauer to couer a course warpe with a fine woofe, the warp beeing spon hard and small, and the woofe soft and round to couer the warpe from sight, which in the working may somewhat appeare, but in the wearing throughly found, that is a daiely practize especially on clothes sould rough.

Besides they haue a practize in their woofe to shut in a fine woofe at both ends of their cloth, which serueth for a muster to shewe, but all the rest of the cloth farre worse; the same ends also are better driuen in the loome with better workemanship.

Deceits in the Mill. When a cloth made with flox or thrums comes to the mill, who would bee a true searcher, and lay the fault open, if their cunning preuented it not? but they preserue such cloth by extraordinarie meanes with tallowe, pigges dung, and vrin which keeps ni the flox, and suffereth the thicking.

If a cloth proue slender, and will not thick kindly in the mill by reason of his defects, then haue they medicine to helpe it with oatmeale and such like, which will remaine in the cloth and make it seeme fast and thicke in the hand, vntill it come to the [Page 27]dressing, where all that stopping vanisheth, lea­uing it to shame by the true fight of his sub­stance.

When a cloth wanteth some of his substance or allowance in yarne, which would soone bee found beeing cleane scoured, thicked, and dried, they will not scoure the same cloth cleane, but leaue a bad substance of oyle and seame in it, thick­ing it vp in the same filth, which proueth noisome in vse and wearing.

Deceits in man king vp of clothes. Whereas the vse of tenters is altogether forbid­den vpon rough clothes with great penalties there­vpon; yet in those countries where those rough clothes are made and so to bee solde many tenters are erected and vsed vpon such clothes as should bee left in that order, as it commeth out of the mill, yet by reason of the aforesaid abuses in yarne and weauing, the mill leaues them shamefull in cock­ells, baudes, pursey, narrower in some places than other, which they by colour to euen out, doe often strain beyond the limitation allowed for drest cloths in deceiuable manner.

When such clothes haue beene so strained, the tenter hookes leaue an euident marke vpon them alongst the lists, and at both endes, which would plainely tell where they had beene, and how vsed; but they haue a tricke to hide that fault, for with a wet cloth and a hotte Iron, they ouer runne those lists and ends which shutteth vp the marks or [Page 28]tongues of the tenter, as that shall tell no tales.

If the cloth by the same tentring doe proue hol­lowe in hand, then doe they also ouer runne the same cloth with that hot Iron about a span deepe from the listes, for the binding of the cloth vp with threds keeps it from farther sight, which deuise makes the cloth feele close in hand in that place, howsoeuer the rest fall out. Those clothes which fall out much too light they will let hang abroad in an euening, sometime all night, to receiue the dew, or else to spout warme water into it, which will make it weigh heauier by eight pounds, besides, to feele more kind­ly in hand: this is so cunningly done that it is hardly to bee perceiued, yet many of them so ouerdone therewith as they are returned againe from beyond the seas rotten with the same vsage.

Deceits in dres­sing. When a cloth which is made vp with flox or thrums, that it is too tender to endure due work­manship, those clothes shall bee rowed drie, and wrought with solace and soft liquor to preserue the flox from the force of the tessell, yet make it rise with a ground to worke vpon in shearing.

In the tentring of cloth, which is allowed to straine but halfe a quarter in breath, and a yard in length vpon a whole broadcloth: It is knowne that diuers is strained a quarter and a halfe in breadth, and fiue yards in length, so that a cloth strained to thirtie yards, beeing wet againe hath lost aboue a third part in length and breadth.

And a kersie allowed to bee strained one naile [Page 29]in breadth, and halfe a yard in length and no more: It hath beene knowne that a Deuon-shire kersie of twelue yards hath beene strained a quarter of a yard in breadth and three yards in length: so that in breadth and length the tentors lends them the one halfe of the peece, which as soone as it comes to wa­ter flyes away inuisible to his owne countrie, but ne­uer to be found againe. The like abuse in other sorts of kersie and narrowe clothes.

If a cloth by much milling is run in, which may cause them more labour to bring vnto the length and breadth they appoint to, then will they vse warme water in the tentring thereof, but common­ly the warmth of the sunne which they alwaies ob­serue will make a cloth yeeld any way in stretching: so they doe make the glorious sunne (which God hath sent for comfort to the world) to bee accessary to their vild abuse, in giuing them such helpe: So doe the wicked often turne Gods best blessings into the worst vses.

In the finishing of their worke of rowing and shearing they will vse a deceit with flox of the same colour of the cloth, which they can sheare as small as dust, which mixt with solace, they spread vpon the musters, and where the cloth may bee seene, which makes it seeme much finer than it is, and feele more substantiall in hand; but the same cloth lying a while after the dressing, the solace drieth vp, and then the same flox flyeth away leaning the cloth in his owne nature againe.

[Page 30] Colours. For the false dying of colors both in woolls, cloth, and stuffes, with the vse of logwood, it is intollera­rable, and too common, to the great discredit of the thing so died. The ground of good colours is sub­stantiall woading, without which diuers colors can­not be perfectly made, as blackes, russets, tawnyes, purples, greenes, and such like, wherof many of them are made without foundation of woad, it appea­reth beautifull and pleasing to the eye, but in vse and wearing proue like false painting and not true dying: Some colours haue a slight ground of woad, but farre too weake for the depth of that colour it beares, yet can set vp the woade marke, or woade rose, which is vpon the piece at a farre richer depth than the peice is woaded throughout: nay farther, some can set on a woadmarke vpon a cloth with a little Indico which hath no woade at all on the peice: but herein the diers of London doe best ob­serue a true course in setting a woaded seale vpon woaded colours, which is a truer testimonie than the woade rose or marke so many waies abused, yet is not the vse of that seale effectually performed in this kind. There is fiue especiall degrees in woading that is to say a huling, a plounket, a watchet, anazur, & a blew, euery one of these exceeding each other in value, yet euery one of them fit for some colours: Now if these degrees were truely expressed on the woa­ded seale, then might the buyer knowe the trueth of each colour, and cause a reformation of that in­tollerable abuse, which doth daily cause such num­bers [Page 31]of our cloths and stuffes, to bee caried out of the realme to bee dressed and died, to the great preiu­dice of many of the Kings maiesties subiects which might be wel maintained vpon those imployments: the trueth of the colour is as materiall as the good­nesse of the cloth, for as oftentimes good cloth is spoyled by a bad colour, so doth a good colour often mend and preferre a meane cloth, therefore as needefull to bee prouided for some: Casuall faults. faults come by negligence without deceiuable intent, as some­time by ouermilling of a cloth through absence of the mill-man, then is there some sorts of woolles of that nature as will not proue so well in milling as other woolles: sometime a cloth ouer heated with going too drie in the mill and so consumed, sometime a small stone in the fulling earth workes many brackes or holles in the cloth, then may mis­fortune happen by bad oyles, as Whale oyle by lying long will chaunge the colour and alter the cloth; sometime a cloth hurt by roukling to the mill, which fault might bee well put in the mil­mans deceit, because hee doth the same with cards to rake off much flox.

Againe the want of the clothiers marke may sometimes come by negligence of the weauer, but often pretended wilfully, either in regard of the falshood of the Cloth which makes them shame to set their marke, or els intending to put ano­ther mans marke in it, which they commonly doe without weauing, sowing the same being taw, and so [Page 32]milled vpon it: but verie fit it is that euerie marke should bee wouen in the cloth, to draw them to per­fect making, for the credit of their markes.

Deceits vsed by some mer­chants and dra­pers. There are some merchants that deale in stuffes termed new draperie, especially in perpetuanas, which are now growne to great vse and traffique, but not like to continue long, by their falshood since their first making, which brought them into estima­tion: for where at first their pitch in the loome was twelue hundreth, but now brought to eight hun­dreth, yet keepe their breadth and length. Some of these merchants doe buy slight sayes and put them forth to milling, and make bastard perpetuanas of them good to the sight, but so vnprofitable in wea­ring, that the same abuses doe vtterly discredit that commoditie.

A sort of cloth is made called Manchester or Lan­cashire plaines to make cottons, which containe a­bout a yard in breadth: these are often bought by merchants and others, which cut them in length ac­cording to a kersie, and hath them dressed and dyed in forme to a kersie, the which are not onely vented into forein parts, but many of them vented in the Realme; which cloth proues verie vnprofita­ble in wearing. Also there haue some merchants cau­sed counterfeit Deuonshire kersies to bee made in Yorkshire out of washers or halfethicks, which haue contained such length and breadth with stop lists, like those Deuonshire kersies, which they haue cau­sed to be dressed, died, & pressed with the hot presse, [Page 33]and so sent beyond the Seas in the name of Deuon­shire kersies, to the great discredit of that sort of Cloth: besides, there is a greedie desire in some mer­chants, who cause the Clothier to make their cloths of extraordinarie length, that is to say, the substance and length of a cloth and a halfe into one cloth, & if they cannot get them made so, then they will cut Cloths and draw three cloths into two so cunningly as can hardly be found: this is done, to deceiue the king of his customes and other dueties. Some Dra­pers haue made practise to draw the forell of a fine Kentish Cloth vpon a Northen Dozen, so cunning­ly as could not easily be perceiued, which forell by the Alnegers negligence hath had the kings armes with the name of that countie vpon it, whereas he ought to set it within the Cloth. The sent of those Northen Dozens hath been taken away, first by ay­ring, and afterwards with liquors or powders: so the buyers haue not had onely the forels to deceiue them, but in false manner, the kings seale hath beene made vse of to that purpose: and then the deceiuer to conclude all, layes his hand vpon the forell, and with an equinocating oath, sweares this Kentish cloth cost him so much.

There is also a late commoditie in great vse of ma­king within this kingdome, Fustians. which setteth many people on worke, called Fustians, which for want of gouernement are so decayed by falshood, keeping neither order in goodnesse nor assise, insomuch that the makers thereof, in this short time of vse, are wea­rie [Page 34]of their trades, and it is thought will return again to the place from whence it came, who doe still ob­serue their sorts and goodnesse in such true manner, as by their seales they are sould, keeping vp the cre­dit of that which they make: what a shame is this to our Nation, to be so void of reason and gouerne­ment, that a good trade should bee suppressed for want of good order amongst themselues, and haue so good a president from others. These many enormities are now in the hight of practise, the euill disposed hauing no feeling thereof, but runne forward to the ruine of all: but to the well disposed which lookes into these abufes, it appeares lamentable and grieuous, desiring that a better por­tion may be procured for those offenders, to purge so vile and dangerous a disease, which may in short time grow incurable.

CHAP. 6. The inconuenience and hurt by these abuses.

WHilest the true making of Cloth indured in reasonable maner it was most vendible in al parts, & so much desired, that foreine Merchants did vsually come in­to this realme, to fetch them a­way: but since deceit crept in, he hath grown greater, and increased euery day, the trade still declining from bad to worse, and now to worst of all, like Iuie, which being suffered, claspeth the tree so hard, that in time the bodie dies thereby. What maketh those now to refuse our Cloth being brought to their owne dores, which before time ear­nestly sought it at ours? falshood. What makes the Gentleman complaine of his Wooll which lyes on his hand? The clothier complaine of his dead sales? The Merchant complaine on his losse? all but fal­shood. What will this come vnto? Nay what is it come to alreadie? The Authors of this euill, both the bad Clothier & the bad merchant, are surfeited with their sweet meat, like Prodigals that spend their patrimony in a momēt, which might wel serue them & their posterity: deceits cānot indure, especially whō that it growes violent, nor can they throw it so far off, but that it will rebound back to them which threw it. [Page 34] [...] [Page 35] [...] [Page 36]How thicke are certificats of falshood returned vpon our Merchants from beyond the seas? so that they know no end of their trouble, nor certaine of their gaine or losse vntill their moneys be receiued, and a­batements deducted. Bad wares are the breeders of bad debts and desperat hazards, wherewith both Merchaunts and makers are extreamely punisht: when a complement of defectiue cloth is made, the owner is often inforced to barter for as bad a commoditie, a hilding for a Iade, or else to de­liuer it out with a handfull of that sweet hearbe time, but receiue it with a backe burden of the bitter hearbe Rew. So heere is aduenture increased, in which point the Merchant far exceeds the maker▪ Yet the maker is an aduenturer, who hath his goods and substance dispersed into many hands, yea and amongst the poorer sort, of diuers conditions, whose fingers are like thornie bushes which the sheep must go through, in euerie of which, do what he can, he shall leaue a locke of his fleece behind him, and although he preserue the principall, yet will a part be detained indirectly: Then when he hath with great care and time finisht his worke, he must vnder­goe a doubtful Market, and often light on a bad mar­chant, which defeats him of all: yet herein is his com­fort; for his worke folke, they are within the com­passe of his view, and seldome faile, by reason of their continual dependāce; for his Markets he doth weeke­ly know his worst; and for his Merchant, he may daily see or beare from him at the Royal-Exchange, [Page 37]if his dealing be in London, & in other places with­in the Realme in like manner. Wherefore, his fra­zards are but petie aduentures in regard of the Mer­chants.

For when those commodities are fastned on the merchant, he must indure a number of dangerous aduentures, both outward and inward, shipwracks at Sea, peril of Pirats, and other robbers; at his place of sale, there he must giue credit to those hee neuer saw, and such as neither liue in his religion nor Law, he must abide to answer all defects found, where our owne Laws shalbe alledged to punish them who be­fore was not priuie to the offence. If they escape con­fiscation, yet shall they be sure of intollerable abate­ments, with bad words, and shamefull reproches; they must stand to the honesty of their factors, which often proue false, and the daunger of the Countrie often subject to change. These and many other ca­sualties causeth cares to abridge his rest, and keepes him waking when others sleepe, euerie stormie wind breedes his feare, and euerie flying report makes him doubtfull, and not without great cause, seeing so ma­ny fall so lainly to the vtter ouerthrow, not onely of themselues, but diuers other depending vpon them, like to the fall of a mightie Tree, which crusheth downe the vnder shrubs about him, so farre as his fall did reach. Therefore the chiefe remedie to preuent much of this mischiefe, is to deale in loyall and perfect commodities, which will with credit a­bide his time for Market, when the other by long [Page 38]lying looseth still, both in goodnes and credit; pro­curing hastie bargains, that brings after repentance. In Prouinces beyond the bounds of Christendome, God is blasphemed, our Religion reuiled, and our people mistearmed in beastly manner: when a Turke or Infidell brusheth his garment bare, that he may number the threeds, and find it to haue feeling fence to runne in at a wet showre, or a hot Iron, then our Christian profession is called in question by those prophane people, who measure our faith by our works. In kingdomes nere vs, these abuses haue been found so odious, and their people so much wronged, that they haue made lawes and edicts, to banish our cloth out of their coūtries, rather desiring our wools, wherewith they can make true commodities. This hath set diuers coūtries on work, in making of cloth, which serueth those places of traffike, where we did vse to commerce, diuers workemen haue gone out of this Land, to make vse of their practise and liuing there, where they are intertained, and daily increase: In our owne Countrie, where much of our Wooll may bee vented, the falshood of clothing is so com­mon, that euerie one striueth to weare any thing ra­ther than cloth: if a gentleman make a liuerie for his man, in the first showre of raine it may fit his Page for bignesse, and for the colours and other conditi­ons in it, after a moneths wearing, it will looke like a souldiers coat which hath line sixe moneths out of garrison. It hath bin knowne that a poore man, get­ting so much money together with care and trauell [Page 39]as would buy him a suit of cloth, and taking his Tay­lor with him, who seeing the cloth, hath justly told him how much would serue to make his Ierkin, and breeches which he hath bought accordingly, after­wards counceld by that Taylor, to cast his Cloth in the water, to make it more seruiceable, which he so doing, hath quite lost his Ierkin, and hauing no more money, was forced to goe cold all winter in his vp­per parts: this in some degree may be accounted sa­criledge, to rob the poore; what are the inconueni­ences that are drawne on by these meanes? first, in­dignitie to our king, whose seale is fixt on this cloth, iniurie to our nation that workes abuse on this cloth, infamie to our selues that weare some part of this Cloth, and vtter ruine of all benefits which should a­rise by this cloth. It is high time to looke out, when the fire hath caught hold of the house end; if it be not preuented by quenching it will soone consume to the ground, and it is doubtfull whether these enor­mities are incurable or no: the plant of falshood is grown so great and antient, that it may be supposed rather to breake than bend, but extraordinarie means and paines must be applied to the cause, which may be recouered by good industrie.

CHAP. VII. The remedie to be made by the Alnegers prouision.

AS this full growne euill hath now procured a daungerous hurt, so hath it verie happily falne out in a time which can afford an especiall remedie. When this kingdome was diui­ded amongst seuen kings, it was vnder a strange gouernement: when there was twise seuen Alnegers in the realme, there was neither law nor order obserued amongst thē; but all they sought was gaine, and how to intrude into each others be­nefit: if a Clothier or offender were interrupted in his falshood within one Countie, he could freely exercise the same in another; where he should be willingly receiued, because he augmented that Al­negers profit. But now, thankes be to God, wee liue vnder one gratious Prince, who ordaines no di­uersitie of Lawes; but hath prouided one order of gouernement for all; So that ill diuided office of Al­nage which ran to ruine in many hands, is now redu­ced into one worthie mans hands; which hath not only power to command, but also will to performe all meanes, and courses, which may tend to the re­formation of this grieuous enormitie: In this busines [Page 41]many hands must bee imployed, whose worke may seeme harsh to those which shall be put out of their wonted course: But it is not their content that is sought; vnto a generall good euerie perticular help must bee applied, heere must bee more paines in the Alneger, more care and truth in the workman, and more trouble to the clothier, but all to a good and profitable end. The first thing to bee looked vnto, is the condition of the clothiers and makers of cloth, stuffes, and commodities belonging to this gouern­ment, which at this time is much differing from law or order, many of them vnexperienced and v­surpers of the trade, who not being masters there­of through want of knowledge commit most of these abuses. And whereas the law prouides that none which professe those trades should bee admit­ted vnder seuen yeares seruice in apprentiship, di­uers do come into the same with a moneths practize, and cloies the Kingdome with defectiue commodi­ties, beggering themselues, and hurting those which should liue by the same: These people for the most part dwelling in obscure places, neuer bringing their commodities to search or seale, nor yeelding any duetie, liue rather like outlawes than subiects. There is a petition vnto the Kings Maiestie, extant from the best clothiers and makers in diuers parts to this purpose, who craue a corporation for the a­mendment of this, which were pittie but it should be graunted, confidering how many inferiour trades enioies such priuiledge that gouerne their compa­nies [Page 42]in good sort and order. If this were accom­plished, the better halfe of this great taske were finished, and great hope that our generall Al­neger will procure it, beeing so good an assi­stance to worke the reformation which lies on his charge.

The dispersing of clothiers and makers is a principall cause to breed these defects: whereas the lawe ordaines that clothing shall not bee v­sed but in a citie, borough, or market towne, or else where clothing hath beene vsually, to the end that the eye of the officer should bee vpon their doings: Now they scatter themselues in vn­fitting places, and if there bee but one clothier in a parish hee will demaund an Alneger to attend him, if not, force the Alneger to come vnto his house to seale his cloth, where hee shall bestowe twelue peny worth of labour for the earning or receiuing of one groate: and when hee comes thi­ther hee shall find them searched by his neigh­bours that hee hath caused to bee chosen sear­chers, who haue no skil, or else by his workman who dare doe nothing but what himselfe directeth, and if the Alneger will sometime call their search in question and trie the cloth, hee shall neither haue place conuenient to view them, nor weights of any certaintie to weigh them, but such weights as they will bring him, which shall bee stones, logges, and such other things as they will tell him their weight, and hee must beleeue them. There is [Page 43]no officer vnder the king so much deluded & abused as hee, beeing so necessarie for the kingdome and beneficiall to the crowne: Somtime, and in some places they will call him from his rest at all houres of the night to performe his office, not for ne­cessitie, but of purpose to disturbe him, with ma­ny other iniuries, which they in base manner haue offered him: but herein himselfe is most to bee blamed, that knowing his owne power and place would suffer such indignities. The course of these dayes is for such as will beare to haue greater burdens put vpon them than can bee borne. It is vnknowne that any officer of the Kings which hath the keeping and vse of his seale should bee subiect to such seruitude, neither is it conuenient: there­fore the true course herein to bee obsetued, is for the Alneger, to prouide in euerie place (need­full for an Alnegers residence) a conuenient roome for all Makers or Clothiers to come vnto, wherein must bee a pearch to drawe ouer the clothes, a table to measure and trie the clothes, and a beame with true weights to weigh the clothes, and the deputie not onely to bee sufficient in abilitie and knowledge but also bound, and sworne to per­forme his office truely, that hee shall bee there alwaies readie at conuenient or appointed times to make a true search in all points, and in no place els­where, and vpon the altering of the propertie of the cloth, to make a new search in these degrees: [Page 44]First, if the aforesaid corporation bee procured, that then the clothes bee first viewed raw by the war­dens or assistants of that corporation, to see whe­ther the cloth bee made of sound yarne, or any de­ceit bee wrought by the weauer, and beeing found merchantable to bee marked at the head end with a marke of allowance cut in the cloth according to the manner of search now vsed vpon raw Deuon­shire kerfies, but beeing defectiue either to iagge the same at both ends, or cut off the head forrell from the cloth, and to set such fine vpon the offen­dor as those Wardens or Ouerseers shall find the fault deserue. But for the Alnegers charge, when the cloth is thicked from the mill to measure the same truely in length and breadth, not trusting to the clothiers content who will often for the credit of his cloth, set on more length than it doth true­ly containe; and that the Alneger doth set on the iust content in the water, whatsoeuer it contay­neth on his seale, also expressing the the narrow­nesse or other defects which hee shall find: And a­gainst euerie fault in the cloth to cut downe a notch of an inch deepe and therein fixe a seale as may appeare to the buyer where the fault is, then when this cloth is fully dried, that hee set one the iust content of weight also whatsoeuer it shall weigh, all this to bee done before the kings seale bee fixed thereunto.

When any of those clothes are farther altered by dying, dressing, or strayning, that hee cause [Page]those former seales of the water to remaine still vpon the cloth, to expresse what it was, and to set other seales vpon that cloth to shew vnto the buyer what that cloth is strained vnto accor­ding to the appointment of the Lords of his Maiesties councell which graunted a tolleration for certaine clothes to bee strained, yet laid that charge vpon the Alneger, that the difference be­tweene the water content and strained length might bee seene: If other faults bee in that cloth either by dying or dressing, that the same bee also no­tified by seuerall seales: whether that cloth be colour graine, woaded, or contrarie in false color, so that in of right it ought to haue those seales ollowing.

• 1 A seale of water length. Died clo­thes.
• 2 A seale of narrownesse and defects. Died clo­thes.
• 3 A searched seale, with the weight. Died clo­thes.
• 4 A seale for strained length. Died clo­thes.
• 5 A seale for colour and dressing. Died clo­thes.
• 6 The kings seale and countie. Died clo­thes.

And that euerie seale set on by the Alneger may haue an especiall marke therein to signifie the place where it was sealed, and by whom, to the end that if any defects bee passed ouer by fauour or negligence in him, he may bee rightly chalen­ged and punished for the same according to his error, and that in all searches hee bee both pre­sent and principall, at the rawe search with the Wardens or Ouerseers, at search from the mill by himselfe and whom hee please, at the search of [Page 46]straining and dressing by himsefe and such worke­men of iudgement as hee shall make choise for suf­ficiencie, and for the search of dying to haue al­waies the true opinion of the best experienced ther­in, both for colours died in wooll, and colours di­ed in cloth, and all to bee sealed according to their true propertie.

So heere is foure searches to bee made on a dressed and died cloth, three searches on a dres­sed white cloth or kersie or of like nature, and two searches vpon euery rough white cloth vn­dressed: And to euerie one of these searches a fee due of two pence on euerie broadcloth, and so according to the rate on all other clothes to bee paied: and it may so happen that all these searches cannot bee performed in one place by rea­son that the cloth may bee wouen in one place, milled in an other, dressed in an other, and died in an other, so the diuersitie of search must be per­formed by seuerall Officers: this cannot bee auoi­ded, but where the condition and propertie is al­tered, the Officer there must make that search, and by the seuerall seales appeare where the cloth was made, where dressed, and where died, and by whom in euerie search seene and sealed.

In the maner of this search hee must obserue the seuerall penalties ordained by the law vpon all of­fences, wherein hee must chiefely followe the di­rection of the Statute lately made in 4. Iacobi cap. 2. for length, breadth, and weight, of all sorts of cloth, [Page 47]which although hee doe not prosecute with extre­mitie, yet keepe them so farre within gouernement, as may bring them to reformation, and the King to receiue more benefit by his lawes. The Alneger in euerie place must also keepe a booke for the King; wherein must bee registred the seuerall fines and pe­nalties taken in all these searches, for what, and from whom, 11. H. 6. cap. 9. which accompt must agree with the seale of faults by him set on: if any cloth proue intolle­rable defectiue, that the Alneger then cut off the list or porell at the one end of that cloth that it may not bee accompted for a cloth, but a remnant, and so sealed by him accordingly, taking his fees, duties, and penalties on that cloth notwithstanding.

And that the Alneger procure them to publique markets, especially in London according to the statut of 39. Eb. cap. 20. or else to lay the penaltie of that law on them, which is 40. s. vpon a cloth, and by all means to preuent priuat sales, which is the couer to hide all abuses, & escape due search, & therefore ought care­fully to be obserued. Obiections. In prosecuting this order and course there will bee three maine obiections made, to say, trouble, charge, and daunger: First who will endure such extraordinarie toile in carrying their goods so often to search, and beeing in di­uers places, farre off from the place of search: Se­condly who will yeeld-to such a charge, as to the fees of a fourefold search whereas heretofore neuer but one was required, and that fee hardly paid; this will be held a taxation or an imposition vnnecessarily [Page]drawne on, and good to bee auoided: Thirdly, who will run wilfully into the daunger of the lawe, as to abide the penalties which shall bee found out by so many searches, wherein euerie degree many offences are made. Wee cannot (say they) cast our cloth in a mould, but shall of force offend: rather then these hard conditions should bee vndergone, euerie man will giue ouer clothing and betake him­selfe to other course of liuing, what shall then be­come of the trade? The Answere. To the first, the law requiers them to bee searched and further appoints them to bring their cloth to a citie, borough, or towne corpo­rate, and there to bee searched and sealed where the Alneger or sealer shall bee, and place fitting: Be­sides, 4. & 5. P. & M. cap. 5. there is a vacant time commonly with eue­rie cloth betwixt each degree of search: when a cloth comes forth of the loome, it goes not pre­sently to the mill, nor so from the mill to dressing, neither from dressing to dying, but sometime a day or two, more or lesse lieth still, affording time for such triall; but admit that all expedition therein may bee required, that time lost is nothing bee­ing soone dispatched, neither will the paines seeme great to those which intend trueth, better it is for them to endure a myles trauell, than the Merchants should still vndergoe an endlesse trou­ble, theier clothes often returned many hundred myles, and certificats daily which doth treble their losse euerie way: whereas by this course they shall know their worst at home, auoyd after-recko­nings, [Page 49]and breed ease & benefit to the merchants and themselues. Secondly, for the charge that cannot be forborne, if the seruice be performed, considering this, that those which doe the same, are or ought to be of estimation, professors of that trade: wherefore, pretious is losse of time, and that their paines duely done therin, deserues no lesse fee, but especially their danger of losse, which will light on them, if their search be false & negligently performed. The charge of a bay, sealed at Colchester (whose course herein must be imitated) by reason of the often search it comes vnto ten pence duetie, yet diuers of them not aboue fortie shillings value: if this payment were left, their orders would fall, wherein they reape a fiue-fold benefit: so shall all Clothiers and makers find hereby, that if his cloth be defectiue, he shall know the worst of his losse, but if it be merchantable, those seales shall be such credit vnto it as shall much aduantage the sale thereof. Better is 8. pence giuen to haue a worke effectually done, than two pence to him that doth nothing at all, if any thing, rather hurt than good. The sparing of this course, and these fees, hath beene the breeding of all former hurts; and al­though the general good required it, yet euery mans priuat respect that should perfome paines without profit, drew backe the meanes of remedie and refor­mation. 3. the daunager of Law cannot be dispenced withall to those which wilfully breake the Law: it was ordained to be obserued, yet moderadion will be herein vsed and a difference made betweene faults [Page 50]pretended, & faults casual, & the punishment in also inflicted, as shall rather tend to procure amendment, than the offenders ruine: and for offences generall, which are all lyable to the law, most of them by the makers care and officers search will be supprest, and all in short time by endeauours on all parts quite rooted out. That a doth cannot be cast in a mould, it is true, but a clothier skilfull and carefull in choise of his wool and yame, and also perfect in his trade, may make a cloth as it pleaseth himselfe in length, bredth, euennesse, and especially in weight. We haue a sort of Clothiers which haue tolleration to straine, and whereas their clothes should containe in weight be­ing dressed 60. l. the tolleration allowes them at 58. which comming all to the Alnegers triall, be in fa­uour to them, pardons them at 56. which they per­ceiuing to incurre no daunger, vnlesse they be any thing vnder that weight, will bring them so just ther­unto, that in 20. clothes together, you shal scarce find a quarter of a pound in any differing from 56. l. that indeed a man may judge they were cast in a mould: these men could aswell make them to 58. l. but that they striue to decline, so farre as they can without danger. As for the discouraging of people to deale in this trade, when so strict search and order shal be ta­ken, neither the good clothier, nor the good Mer­chant, will say so, nor the general opinion esteeme it so: It was neuer knowne that true gouernment did at any time decay any trade, but rather caused it to increase and flourish, by this meanes much more [Page]Cloth will be made, better sould, and more desired and sought for: and to conclude, supplie all necessa­rie wants, which this worthie (but ouer­wronged) trade hath long time indured.