REMARKABLE OCCURENCES ON BOARD HIS MAJESTYS BARK ENDEAVOUR FRIDAY May 27<1th>1 to FRIDAY July 29<1th>1. Moderate and fair weather, at 11 am hoisted the Pendant and took charge of the Ship agreeable to my Commission of the 25<1th>1 Instant, She lying in the Bason in Deptford Yard. From this day to the 21st of July we were constantly employed in fitting the Ship takeing on board stores and Provisions &ca whens we saild from Deptford and anchor'd in Gallions reach where we remain'd untill the 30th. The transactions of each day both while we lay here and at Deptford are inserted in the Logg Book and as they contain nothing but common Occurrences it was thought not necessary to insert them here.s SATURDAY July 30<1th>1 to SUNDAY August 7<1th.>1 Wiegh'd from Gallions with the wind at w and made sail down the River, the same day anchor'd at Gravesend, and the next morning wiegh'd from thence and at Noon Anchor'd at the Buoy of the Fairway. On Wednesday 3rd of Augt Anchor'd in the Downs in 9 fathom water, Deal Castle NwBw. On Sunday the 7th I joined the Ship, discharged the Pilot and the next Day sail'd for Plymouth. MONDAY 8<1th. Winds WBN, NW.>1 Fresh breeze at Nw and Clowdy weather the most part of these 24 hours. At 1o am wiegh'd and came to sail. At Noon the South Foreland bore NE1/2N Distant 6 or 7 Miles. TUESDAY <19th. Winds NW to North.>1 Gentle breezes Northerly and Clowdy weather. At 7 pm the Tide being against us Anchor'd in 13 fathom water, Dungenness swBw. At 11 wiegh'd and made sail down channell, at Noon Beachey head NBE1/2E Distant 6 Leagues Latd Observed 50o 30' North. 2] WEDNESDAY 10<1th>1. Variable Light airs and Clear weather. At 8 pm Beachey Head NEBE Distant 4 Leagues and at 8 it bore NEBN, 9 Leagues, found the Variation of the Compass to be 23o West. At Noon the Isle of Wight NwBw. THURSDAY <11 1th. Winds Varble.>1 Light airs and clear weather. At 8 pm Dunnose NBW 5 Leagues and at 4 am it bore NNE1/2Distce 5 Leagues. FRIDAY 12<1th>1. Light airs Eastly or Calms all these 24 hours. At Noon the Bill of Portland bore Nw1/2N Distant 3 Leagues Latd Obserd 50o 24' North. SATURDAY 13<1th>1. <1Winds Varble.>1 Do Weather. At Noon the Start Point West 7 or Eight Miles, Latd Observ'd 50o 12' N which must be the Latitude of the Start as it bore west. SUNDAY 14<1th>1. Fine breezes at NE and clear weather. At 1/2 past 8 pm Anchor'd in the entrance of Plymo Sound in 9 fathom water. At 4 am Weigh'd and worked into proper anchoring ground and anchor'd in 6 fathom the Mewstone SE, Mount Batten NNE1/2E and Draks Island NBw. Dispatched an express to London for Mr Banks and Dr Solander to join the ship, their Servants and baggage being already on board. MONDAY 15<1th.>1 First and latter parts Moderate breezes and fair, Middle squally with heavy showers of rain, winds from sw to SE. I this day received an order to augment the Ships compney to 85 Men which before was but 70. Reced on board fresh beef for the Ships compney. TUESDAY 16<1th.>1 Winds from ssE to NE. First part Moderate and hazey Middle hard Squalls with rain, the latter Moderate and fair. Received on board a Supply of Bread Beer & Water, a Serjt Corpl a Drummer and Nine Private Marines as part of the Compliment. WEDNESDAY 17<1th. Winds SE to EBS.>1 Little wind Easterly and hazey weather. Sent some Cordage to the Yard in order to be exchanged for smaller. Several Ship wrights and Joiners from the Yard Em- ploy'd on board refiting the Gentlemens Cabbins and making a Platform over the Tillers &ca. THURSDAY 18<1th.>1 Little wind and Clowdy. Struck down 4 guns in the hold, received on board 4 mores with 12 Barrels of Powder and several other stores. Ship wrights and joiners Empd on board. [3 FRIDAY 19<1th>1. Winds from Nw to sw. Former part little wind with rain remainder fair weather, AM Read to the Ships Company the articles of War and the Act of Parliament,<11>1 they likewise were paid two Months Wages in advance. I also told them that they were not to expect any additional pay for the performance of our intended Voyage, they were well satisfied and express'd great chearfullness and readyness to prosecute the Voyage.s Received on board another supply of Provisions, Rum etca.s SATURDAY 20<1th. Winds WSW.>1 First part little wind with rain, re- mainder fresh gales at wsw and thick rainy weather. Empd making ready for sea. SUNDAY 21<1st>1. Winds at SWBW, Fresh gales and Do Weather. The Shipwrights having finished their woork, intended to have sail'd, instead of which was oblig'd to let go another anchor. MONDAY 22<1nd>1. Fresh gales with heavy squalls of Wind at SW and rain all this 24 hours. TUESDAY 23<1rd. Winds WSW.>1 Do Wear. Struck yards and Topmasts. Anchor'd between the Island and the Main His Majestys Ship Gibraltar. WEDNESDAY 24<1th>1. Fresh gales and hazey weather. AM hove up the Small Bower Anchor and got up yards and Topmasts. THURSDAY 25th. Winds from w to Nw, Moderate and Clowdy weather. AM received on board a Supply of Beer & Water and 4] return'd all our empty Casks. Loosed the Topsails as a Sigl for sailing.s FRIDAY 26th. <1Winds NBW, NW, WBS. Course S>1 21o <1E. Distce>1 23 <1Mi>1 <1Latd in>1 49o 30'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 5o 52' <1W. Bearings at>1 <1Noon Lizard N>1 21o <1W. Dist.>1 23 <1miles.>1 First part fresh breeze and Clowdy, remainder little wind and Clear. At 2 pm got under sail and put to sea having on board 94 persons including Officers Seamen Gentlemen and their servants, near 18 months provisions, 1o Carriage guns 12 Swivels with good store of Ammunition and stores of all kinds. At 8 the Dodman point WNW Distt 4 or 5 Leagues. At 6 am the Lizard bore WNW1/2W 5 or 6 Leagues Distt. At Noon sounded and had 5o fathoms Grey sand with small stones and broken shells. SATURDAY 27<1th>1. Winds NW, NE, SE. Course SW. Distce 77M. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 48o 42'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 6o 42'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1N>1 29o <1E Dist.>1 80 <1miles.>1 First part Light airs and clear weather re- mainder fresh breeze and clowdy. Birthed the Ships Compney, muster'd the chests and stove all that were unnecessary. SUNDAY 28<1th>1. <1Winds Easterly. Course S>1 48o <1W. Distce>1 130 <1M. Latd>1 in 47o 16'. <1Longd in West from Geenwich>1 9o7' <1W. Bearings at Noon Lizd>1 <1N>1 40o 45's <1E>1 69 <1leagues.>1 Former part fresh gales and hazy with rain remainder a Moderate breeze and Clowdy. At Noon Latd observed 47o 16' N. MONDAY 29<1th. Winds NWerly. Course S>1 21o <1W. Distce>1 41 <1M. Latd in>1 46o 38'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 9o 29' <1W. Bearings at Noon Lizd>1 <1N>1 37o45' <1E>1 86 <1leagues.>1 Light airs and Hazey the most part of these 24 hours with some rain. TUESDAY 30<1th>1. Winds Westerly. Course S 27o <1W. Distce>1 33 <1M. Latd in>1 46o 9'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 9o52'. <1Bearings at Noon Lizd>1 <1N>1 36o <1E>1 93 <1leagues.>1 Fresh gales all these 24 hours. At 1/2 past 1 pm spoke with his Majestys Ship Guadeloupe. At 6 am close reefed the Topsails and got down topgt Yards. WEDNESDAY 31<1st>1. Winds West to SW Course S>1 36o <1E. Distce>1 82 <1M.>1 <1Latd in>1 45o 3'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 8o 43' <1W. Bearings at Noon>1 <1Lizd NNE Dist.>1 105 <1leagues.>1 Fore and middle parts Moderate breezes and clear, latter fresh gales and clowdy. At 6 pm loosed the 2nd reef out of the Topsails and at 8 am took them in again. At Noon Tacked and stood to the Nw, having stood before to the southward. [5 [SEPTEMBER 1768] THURSDAY <11st. Winds Westerly. Course S>1 7oo <1W. Distce>1 2o <1M. Latd>1 <1in>1 44o56'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 9o9' <1W. Bearings at Noon Lizd>1 <1N>1 28o15' <1D.>1 1o9 <1leagues.>1 Very hard gales with some heavy showers of rain the most part of these 24 hours which brought us under our two courses, broke one of our Main topmast Puttock plates, Washed over board a small boat belonging to the Boatswain and drown'd between 3 and 4 Dozn of our Poultry which was worst of all, towards Noon it moderated so that we could bear our Main topsail close reef'd. At Midnight Wore and stood to the Southward. FRIDAY <12nd. Winds WBN, West, S W, WSW. Course SB W. Distce>1 64 <1M.>1 <1Latd in>1 43o53'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 9o26' <1W. Bearings at Noon>1 <1Lizd NNE D.>1 130 <1leagues.>1 Fresh gales and clowdy the most part of these 24 hours. pM got up the spare Mainsail to dry it being wet by the water geting into the sail room, occassiond by the Ship being very leaky in her upper works. At 5 am loosed 2 reefs out of each topsail and saw the land which we judged to be between Cape Finister and Cape Ortegal. At Io Tacked being about 4 Miles off shore and stood to the Nw. Loosed all the reefs out and set topgt sails. At Noon Cape Ortegal bore EBs distant about 8 Leagues. SATURDAY <13rd. Winds SW & West. Course>1 S68o45' <1West. Distce in>1 <1Files>1 44. <1Latd in>1 44o9'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 10o20'. <1Bearings>1 <1at Noon Lizd>1 N291/2o <1E Dist.>1 I38 <1leagues.>1 First part Little wind and hazey with rain, remainder Strong gales with hard squalls which brought us under our close reefed topsails and obliged us to strike topgallant yards. At 8 am wore ship and stood to the Southward. SUNDAY 4<1th. Winds Westerly, Calm. Bearings at Noon Island of Cyserga>1s <1ESE Distant>1 3 <1leagues.>1 Fore part fresh gales and clear, remainder Light airs and calm. At 6 am Cape Finister bore sBw1/2w distant 10 or 11 Leagues. Loosed all the reefs out of the topsails and got top- gallant yards aCross. MONDAY <15th. Winds Do, NW, Calm. Latd in>1 43o4'. <1Bearings at Noon C.>1 <1Finister SBE>1 4 <1leagues.>1 Light breezes and calms all these 24 hours. At 2 pm had an Observation of the Sun and Moon which gave the Longd 8o42' West from Greenwich. At 6 Cape Finister bore sBw1/2w Distt 6 Leagues. Variation of the Compass pr Azth 18o42' West. At Noon Cape Finister sBE Distant 4 Leagues. Latd Observ'd 43o4' therefore Cape Finister must lay in Latd 42o53' North. 6] TUESDAY 6<1th. Winds NW. Course S>1 42o <1W. Distce in miles>1 70. <1Latd in>1 42o 1'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 9o5o' <1W. Bearings at Noon>1 C. <1Finister N.>1 42o <1E>1 70 <1miles.>1 Moderate breezes and clear weather these 24 hours. AM found the Variation by the mean of 5 Azth to be 21o4o' West, three degrees more than what it was found yesterday, which I cannot account for, as both Observasions appeared to me to be equally well made. At 10o28' AM had an Observasion of the Sun and Moon which gave the Longd 9o40' West from Greenwich. By this Observation Cape Finister must lie in 8o52' and by that made yesterday in 8o40', the mean of the two is 8o46' West of Greenwich, the Longitude of the Cape,s its Latd being 42o53' North. WEDNESDAY 7<1th. Winds WNW. Course SBW. Distce in miles>1 92. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 40o29'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 10o11'. <1Bearings at Noon C>1. <1Finister N>1 13o E 49 <1leagues.>1 Moderate breezes and clear weather. Found the Variation to be 2 L o4' West. THURSDAY 8<1th. Winds WNW to WBS. Course S>1 4o E. <1Distce in miles>1 III. <1Latd in>1 38o33'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 10oo'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon C. Finister N>1 12o <1E Dist.>1 88 <1leagues.>1 Fresh gales and clowdy weather. AM past by 2 sail which were standing to the NE. FRIDAY 9<1th. Winds WBN to NE. Course S>1 40o <1W. Distce in miles>1 116- <1Latd in>1 37o4'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 11o33'. <1Bearings at Noon C.>1 <1Finister N>1 20o <1E 124 leagues.>1 First part fresh gales and clowdy re- mainder Moderate breezes and fine clear weather. Set up the top- mast rigging and found the Variation to be 19o50' w. SATURDAY 10<1th. Winds NEBE. Course S>1 36o <1W. Distce in miles>1 130. <1Latd in>1 35o20'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 13o28'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1C. Finister N>1 24o <1E>1 166 <1leagues.>1 A Steady fresh breeze and fine clear weather. Found the Variation of the Compass by the Even'g and Morning Amplitudes and by two Azths to be 20o59' West.s SUNDAY 11<1th. Winds NEBE & NBE. Course S>1 32o <1W. Distce in>1 miles 94. <1Latd in>1 34o1'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 14o29'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon C. Finister N>1261/2o E 198 <1leagues.>1 The same winds and weather continues. Found the Variation to be this Even'g 18o54' and in the Morn'g 17o58' West, they both being the mean result of several good observations. MONDAY 12<1th. Winds NNW. Course S>1 40o <1W. Distce in miles>1 102. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 32o43'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 15o53'. Moderate breeze and fine [7 clear weather. At6AM the Island of Porto Santo bore NwBw, Distce 9 or 10 Leagues. Hauld the wind to the westward. At Noon the Desertas extending from wsw to swBs, the body of Madiera w1/2s and Porto Santo NNw1/2w. Latd obser'd 32o43' N. TUESDAY <113th. Winds N, Westerly. Moor'd in Fenchal Road, Island of>1 <1Madeira.>1 Fresh breeze and clear weather. At 8 pm anchor'd in Fenchal Road in 22 fathom water. Found here His Majestys Ship Rose and several Merchant Vessels. In the morning new birthed the Ship and Moor'd with Stream Anchr half a Cable on the best bower and a Hawser and a half on the Stream. WEDNESDAY 14<1th. Winds Easterly.>1 First part fine clear weather, remainder Clowdy with squalls from the land attended with showers of rain. In the night the bend of the Hawsers of the stream Anchor slip'd, owing to the carelesness of the person who made it fast. In the morning hove up the Anchor in the Boat and carried it out to the Southward, in heaving the Anchor out of the Boat Mr Weir Masters mate was carried over board by the Buoy-rope and to the bottom with the anchor. Hove up the anchor by the Ship as soon as possible and found his body intangled in the Buoy-rope. Moor'd the ship with the two Bowers in 22 fathom water, the Loo Rock w and the Brazen head E Saild his Majestys ship Rose. The Boats imploy'd carrying the casks ashore for Wine and the caulkers caulking the Ships sides.s THURSDAY 15<1th. Winds NE to SE.>1 Squalls of Wind from the land with rain the most part of these 24 hours. Rec'd on board fresh Beef and Greens for the Ships Compney and sent on shore all our Casks for wine and Water having a shore boat employ'd for that purpose. FRIDAY 16<1th. Winds Easterly.>1 The most part fine clear weather. Punished Henry Stephens Seaman and Thos Dunister Marine with 12 lashes each for refusing to take their allowance of fresh Beef.s Empd taking on board wine and water.s SATURDAY 17<1th. Winds Westerly.>1 Little wind and fine clear weather. Issued to the Whole Ships Company 2o Pounds of Onions per man. Empd takeing on board Wine Water &ca. 8] SUNDAY 18<1th. Winds Southerly, ESE, SW.>1 Do Weather. PM Ricieved on board 270 pounds of fresh Beef and a Live Bullock charg'd 613 pounds. Compleated our wine and Water having recd of the former 3032 Gallns of the latter 10 Tuns. AM unmoord and prepar'd for sailing. <1Funchall>1 in the Island of Madeira, by Observations made here by Dr Heberdens F.R.S. lies in the Latd of 32o33'33" N & Longd West from Greenwich 16o49'; the Variation of the Compass 15o30' West decreasing, as he says which I much doubt,s neither does this Variation agree with our own observations. The Tide flowes full and change North and South and rises perpendicular 7 feet at spring Tides and 4 feet at Neep-tides. We found the North point of the Dipping Needle belonging to the Royal Society to dip 77o18'. The refreshments for shipping to be got at this place are Wine, Water, Fruit of several sorts and Onions in plenty, some sweetmeats; but fresh meat and Poultry are very dear and not to be had at any rate without leave from the Governor.s MONDAY 19<1th. Winds ESE. Latd in>1 31o43'. <1Bearings at Noon High>1 Lard <1over Funchall N>1 7o <1E Distce>1 49 <1miles.>1 Light breezes and fine clear weather. At Midnight saild from Funchal, at 8 am the high land over it bore N1/2E. Unbent the cables stowed the anchors and Issued to the Ships Compney 10 pounds of Onions pr Man. Ships Draught of Water Forwrd 14F 8s Abaft 15F 11. TUESDAY 20<1th. Winds Varble. Course S>1 21o3o' <1W. Distce in Miles>1 28. <1Latd in>1 31 o17'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 17o9' <1Wt. Bearings at Noon>1 <1Funchall Id of Madeira N>1 13o <1E Dt>1 76 <1miles.>1 Light airs and clear weather. PM took several Azimuths which gave the Variation 16o30' West. Put the Ships Compney to three watches. WEDNESDAY <121st. Winds SSW to SWBW. Course S>1 60o <1E. Distce in>1 <1Miles>1 60. <1Latd in>1 30o46'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 16o8'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do N>1 10o <1W>1 113 <1miles.>1 First part light airs remainder fresh breeze and clear weather. Served hooks and lines to the Ships [9 Compney; and employ'd them in the Day in making Matts &ca for the Rigging.s THURSDAY 22nd. <1Winds SWerly. Course>1 S35o3o' <1E. Distce in Miles>1 73 <1M. Latd in>1 29o4o'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 15o31'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do N21>1o <1W Dt>1 62 <1leagues.>1 Gentle breezes and clear weather. At 4 pm saw the Salvages bearing South, at 6 the body of the Island bore s1/2w Distt about 5 Leagues. Found the Variation of the Compass by an Azimuth to be 17o50' West. At 1o the Isles of Salvages bore wBs1/2s distt 2 Leagues. I make those Islands to lie in Latd 30o11' s and s 16o E, 58 Leagues from Fonchall Madeira.s FRIDAY 23rd. <1Winds SW, NE. Course S>1 26o <1W. Distce in miles>1 54. <1Latd in>1 28o51'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 15o5o'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do N>1 12o45' <1Wt>1 77 <1leagues.>1 Light breezes and clear weather. At 6 am saw the Peak of Teneriff bearing wBs1/2s and the Grand Canaries s1/2w. The Variation of the Compass from 17o22' to 16o30'. SATURDAY 24<1th. Winds NEBE. Latd in>1 27o10'. <1Longd in West from>1 <1Greenwich>1 16o54'. <1Bearings at Noon Peek of Teneriff N>1 18o45' <1Dt>1 74 <1Miles.>1 A Fresh breeze and clear weather the most part of these 24 hours. I take this to be the NE Trade we have now got into. At 6 pm the NE end of the Island of TeneriffwBN Distt 3 or 4 Leagues. Off this NE point ly some rocks high above water the highest is near the point and very remarkable. By our run from yesterday at Noon this end of the Island must lay in the Latd of 28o27' and s 7o45' E distt 83 Leagues from Fenchall and s 18o w 98 Miles from the Salvages. At I am the Peek of Teneriff bore wNw. Found the Variation to be this morng 16o14' West. The <1Peak of Teneriff>1 (from which I now take my departure) is a very high mountain upon the Island of the same name, one of the Canarie Islands, its perpendicular hight from actual measurement is said to be 15396 feet.s It lies in the Latd of 28 13' N and Longitude 16o32' West from Greenwich, its situation in this respect is allowed to be pretty well determined. 10] SUNDAY 25<1th. Winds EBN, ENE. Course S>1 41o <1W. Distce in miles>1 126. <1Latd in>1 25o36'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 18o32'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 <1N>1 33o15' <1E Dt>1 61 <1leagues.>1 A Steady Trade Wind and Clear weather. The Variation by the ampd this evening was 14o58' West. MONDAY 26<1th. Winds NEBE. Course S>1 22o15' <1W. Distce in miles>1 122. <1Latd in>1 23o43'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 19o23'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do>1 N29o <1E Dt>1 317 <1miles.>1 Fresh breeze and some what hazey. Varia- tion by this evening amplitude 15o1' West. TUESDAY 27<1th. Wind NE. Course S>1 19o <1W. Distce in miles>1 145. <1Latd in>1 21o26'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 20o 14'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 N26o <1E Dt>1 154 <1leagues.>1 The same wind and weather this day as yesterday. Served Wine to the Ships Compney, the Beer being all expended to two cask which I intend to keep some time longer as the whole has proved very good to the Very last cask. At Noon found the ship by observation 1o Miles a head of the Log, which I suppose may be owing to a Current Setting in the same diriction as the trade wind.s WEDNESDAY 28<1th. Winds NE, ENE. Course S>1 12o30' <1W. Distce it>1 <1miles>1 150. <1Latd in>1 18o59'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 20o48' <1W>1. <1Bearings at Noon Peek of Teneriff N>1 23o15' <1E Dt>1 204 <1L.>1 A Fresh trade wind and hazey weather. The Variation of the Compass by the mean of several Azimuths taken this evening 12o46' and in the morning by the same method 12o43' w. This day Log and observed Latd agree which is not reconsilable to yesterday. Exercised the People at small Arms.s THURSDAY 29<1th. Winds NEBN. Course S>1 14o <1W. Distce in miles>1 90. <1Latd in>1 17o32'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 21o<111'. Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do>1 N23 <1E Dt>1 236 <1L.>1 Fresh breeze and hazey weather. The Variation 12o33' w: the observed Latd ahead of that given by the Logg Io Miles. FRIDAY 30<1th. Winds NE. Course S>1 12o30' <1W. Distce in miles>1 97. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 15o57' <1pr Observation. Bearings at Noon Teneriff>1 N20o43' <1E. Distce>1 2621/3 <1leagues. the Hills on the>1 SE <1Point of the Island Bonavista N>1 69 <1West. Distance from the Shore 3 leagues.>1 A Steady breeze and pleasant weather. At 6 AM saw the Island of Bonavista (one of the Cape de Verd Islands) extending from SBE to SWBS, distt 3 or 4 Leagues. Ranged the East side of this Island at the distance of 3 or 4 Miles from the shore, until we were obliged to haul off to avoid a Ledge of [11 rocks which stretch out SWBW from the body or SE point of the Island 11/2 League, had no ground with 4o fathom a mile without this ledge. The Island of Bonavista is in extent from North to south about 5 Leagues, is of a very uneven and hilly surface, with low sandy beaches on the East side. The sE pt of the Island, from which I take my departure, by an observation this day at Noon lies in the Latd of 16o N and according to our run from Madeira, in the Longd of 21o51' west from Greenwich and S 21o West 260 Leagues from Teneriff: drawing No 1 and 2s represent the appearence of the East side of this Island where [ ] is the sE point or the hill over it, which is high, of a round figure and the southermost on the Island. [OCTOBER 1768] SATURDAY <11st. Winds N, NNE. Course S>1 12oI2' <1W. Distce in miles>1 114. <1Latd in>1 14o6'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 22o10'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Island of Bonavista SEP>1s N9o <1W Dt>1 115 <1Miles.>1 A Steady gale and somewhat hazey. Variation by very good Azimuths this evening 10o37' and by the same in morning 10o0' West. At Noon found the Ship ahead of the Logg 5 Miles.s SUNDAY <12nd. NBE, NNW. Course S 1>1o <1Distce in miles>1 92. <1Latd. in>1 12o34'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o <11>1 2'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 <1N>1 5o45' <1E Dt>1 69 <1leagues.>1 First part a steady breeze and pleasant weather, remainder Light breezes and clowdy. At Noon found the Ship by observation ahead of the Logg 7 MB. MONDAY 3<1rd. N, Calm SSW1/2W. Course S>1 3o30' <1E. Distce in miles>1 2o. <1Latd in S>1 3o30' <1E. Distce in miles>1 20. <1Latd in>1 12o14'. <1Longd in West from>1 <1Greenwich>1 22o10'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 N5o <1E Dt>1 76 <1leagues.>1 Clowdy weather with light wind and calms. Variation by this evening Amplitude 8o49' West. AM hoisted out a boat to try if there was any current, found one seting to SE at the rate of 3/4 of a mile per hour.s TUESDAY <14th. Winds Var'ble. Course S>1 53o <1W. Distce in miles>1 17. <1Latd in>1 11o53o. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22s32'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do>1 N2o <1E. Dt>1 82 <1L.>1 Calm for the greatest part of these 24 hours. By 12] an Observation we had this morning of the Sun and Moon, found our selves in the Longd of 22o32'30" West frorn Greenwich, that by account is 21o58', the difference being 34 Miles Westerly, which doth not agree with the seting of the Current for having try'd it twice to day and found it set to the ESE I mile per hour, and at the same time found the Ship to the Southward of the Log by the Noon observations 10 Miles. Served Portable Soup and Sour Krout to the Ships Compney. WEDNESDAY <15th. Winds Calm, NE, E. Course, S>1 29o E. <1Distce in>1 <1miles>1 57. <1Latd in>1 10o56'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o3'. <1Bearings>1 <1at Noon Bonavista SE Pt.>1 72o E <1Dt 1o1 leagues.>1 Light breeze of wind sometimes clear and sometimes clowdy weather. Variation 6o 10' West by an Azimuth and Amplitude this evening. At Noon found the ship by the Observ'd Latitude 7 Miles to the southward of the Logg, and by the observed Longitude 30' to the Eastward of yester- days Observation; and as these Observations for finding the Longd if carefully observed with good Instruments, will generally come within 10 or 15 MB of each other and very often much nearer, it therefore can be no longer a doubt but that there is a current seting to the Eastward.s Yet we cannot have had this current long because the Longitude by account and that by Observation agree to day but yesterday she was 28' to the westward of the observation. THURSDAY 6<1th. Winds NE, SE. Srly. Course S>1 10o30' <1W. Distce in>1 Files 77. <1Latd in>1 9o40'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o28'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do N 4>1o <1E Distt>1 128 <1leagues.>1 First part Light breeze and Clowdy. Middle frequent heavy squalls with rain till towards Noon when we had again little wind. Found the Variation by the mean of three Azimuth taken this morning to be 8o52' W, which makes the Vari- ation found yesterday doubtfull. FRIDAY 7<1th. Winds Srly, Calm, Northerly. Course S>1 5o <1W. Distce in miles>1 10. <1Latd in>1 9o42'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o19'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do N>1 4o <1E Dt>1 127 <1leagues.>1 Variable Light Airs and calm all this 24 hours. At Noon found the current to set SE1/4S one Mile an hour, and yet by Observation at Noon I find the Ship 12 miles to the Northward of account, a circumstance that hath not happen'd for many days and which I believe to be owing to the heavy squalls we had yesterday from the SE, which obliged us to put frequently before the wind. SATURDAY 8<1th. Winds NEBN to ESE. Course SBE. Distce in miles>1 78. <1Latd in>1 8o25'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o4'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 [13 <1N>1 1o45' <1E Dt>1 152 <1leagues.>1 First part light airs, and clear weather, Middle Squally with Thunder and Lightning all round the compass, latter part Moderate breeze and clear weather. Had several Azi- muths both in the evening and morning which gave the Variation 8o30' West. At Noon found by observation that the Ship had outrun the Logg 20 Miles a proof that there is a Current seting to the South- ward. SUNDAY 9<1th. Winds ESE. Course S>1 16o <1W. Distce in miles>1 29. <1Latd in>1 7o58'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o13'. <1Bearings at Noon Do N>1 2o40' <1Distt>1 161 <1leagues.>1 Light airs and fine clear weather, found the Variation by a great number of Azimuths made this afternoon to be 8o21'30" w and by the morning Apd 7o48'. At Noon try'd the current and found it set NNW3/4W 11/8 Mile pr hour. The shifting of the current was confirmed by the observed Latitude. MONDAY 10<1th. Winds SEBE, Srly. Course S. Distce in miles>1 10 <1M.>1 <1Latd in>1 7o48'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o13'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do N>1 3o <1E>1 164 <1leagues.>1 First part light breeze and clear weather. Middle Squally with heavy showers of rain, latter Variable light airs and calm and dark gloomy weather. At 3 pm found the current to set NNE1/4E 11/4 Mile per hour and at Noon found it to set NE3/4N at the same rate and the Variation to be 8o39' West by the mean of several Azimuths. TUESDAY 11<1th. Wind SEerly. Course S>1 52o <1W. Distce in miles>1 18. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 7o36'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o28'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 <1N>1 3o <1E Dt>1 168 <1leagues.>1 Weather very Variable with frequent squalls rain and Lightning. By the observed Latd at Noon I find the ship hath only made 22 Miles Southing since the last observation two days ago, whereas the Logg gives 55 Miles--a prooff that there is a Current seting to the Northward.s WEDNESDAY 12<1th. Winds Varble. Course S>1 33o30' <1W. Distce in miles>1 20. <1Latd in>1 7o21'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o39'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 <1N>15o <1E>1 174 <1leagues.>1 Much the same weather as yesterday the first part, the remainder mostly calm and clowdy weather. AM try'd the current and found it set SBW1/4W half a Mile per hour, which is not agreeable to yesterdays remark.s 14] THURSDAY 13<1th. Winds SW, WSW. Course S>1 16o45' <1E. Distce>1 in <1miles>1 21. <1Latd in>1 7o1'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 22o32'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Island of Bonavista SE Point N>1 5o <1E>1 181 <1leags.>1 Light airs of wind with some heavy showers of rain. Variation by Azth and amplitude this Eveng 8o46' w. At Noon tryd the current and found it set S3/4E 1/3 of a Mile per hour, but finding the Observation and Log agree I am inclinable to think it hath had no effect upon the Ship. FRIDAY 14<1th. Winds WSW to SSE. Course S>1 5o <1E. Distce in miles>1 24. <1Latd in>1 6o38'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 22o30'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 <1N>1 3o 15' <1E Dt>1 188 <1L.>1 Dark gloomy weather with much rain, the wind variable from wsw to SSE, some times on one tack some times on the other. SATURDAY 15<1th. Winds SSW to SE. Course pr. Logg S>1 30o <1E. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 12. <1Latd in>1 6o50'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 22o23' <1pr Accot.>1 23o46' <1pr @ & >. Bearings at Noon Do NBE Dt>1 187 <1leagues.>1 First part Little wind and clowdy, middle Squally with rain, latter part Light airs and clear weather. A little before noon took several observations of the @ & > the mean result of which gave the Longd to be 23o46' West from Greenwich, which is 1o22' More westerly then that by account carried on from the last observation; and the Observed latitude is 24 Miles more no[r]therly then the Logg since the last observation 2 days ago--all of which shews that the North- westerly current hath prevail'd for thise some days past. SUNDAY 16<1th. Winds SE, Varble, NE. Course S>1 2o <1E. Distce in miles>1 72. <1Latd in>1 5o38'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 23o45'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 N5o 15' <1Dt>1 208 <1leagues.>1 First part Calm, the remainder, Gentle breezes and fine pleasant weather. At 3h30o39" Apparent time pm the Observ'd distce of the @ & >'s nearest Limbs was 52o42'30", the Altd of the @'s Lower limb 32o39' the Altd> 's Lower Limb 58o36'. The Longitude of the Ship from the foregoing observations 23o83'33" West from Greenwch differing 13' from those made in the Morning of yesterday, the Ship laying all the time becalm'd. Variation of the Compass 8o40' West. MONDAY 17<1th. Winds South, SE, Varble. Course SB W1/2 W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 11. <1Latd in>1 5o17'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 23o47'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do N>15o15' <1Dt>1 212 <1leagues.>1 Variable Light Airs and calm and clear weather. At 1/2 past 1pm took two distances of the @ & >, the first of which gave the Longd 23o45'56" and the 2nd 23o44' West, the difference being not quite 2 Miles which shew how near to one another these observation can be made. [15 TUESDAY 18<1th. Winds S to ESE. Course>1 S48o <1W. Distce in miles>1 45. <1Latd in>1 4s47'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 24o23'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do N>1 12o <1E Dt>1 229 <1leagues.>1 Sometimes little wind, sometimes Squally with lightning and rain. WEDNESDAY 19th. <1Winds SBE to SEBS. Course>1 S42o <1W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 88. <1Latd in>1 3o44'. <1Longd In West from Greenwich>1 25o23'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do N>1 14o <1E Dt>1 253 <1leagues.>1 Fresh breeze and Clowdy weather. The observed Latd to the Northward of that given by the Log 9 Miles which I suppose must be owing to a Current. THURSDAY 20th. <1Winds Do. Course S>1 52o <1W. Distce in miles>1 48. <1Latd in>1 3o16'. <1Longd>1 in <1West from Greenwich>1 26o20'. <1Bearings at Noon Do N>1 18o3o' <1E Dt>1 270 <1leagues.>1 A Gentle gale and clear weather. At a little before 5 pm had an observation of the Sun and Moon which gave the Longd 25o46' West from Greenwch which is more westerly then that by account carried on from the last observations, and the observed Latd being again to the northward of account shews that there must be a current seting between the Nth and West. FRIDAY 21<1st. Winds SE & SSE. Course>1 S 58o <1W. Distce in miles>1 57. <1Latd in>1 2o46'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 27o<111'. Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do N>1 21 o <1E Dt>1 281 <1leagues.>1 A Moderate breeze and for the most part clear weather. Longd In per the Mean of 2 observations of the @ & > made at 4h45' and at 4h54' pm, 26o33' West,s and the ob- served Latd at Noon to the Northward of the Log Seven Miles.s SATURDAY 22nd. <1Winds SEBS. Course>1 S43o15' <1W. Distce in miles>1 88. <1Latd in>1 Io45'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 28o12'. <1Bearings at Noon Do>1 <1N>1 23o <1E Dt>1 312 <1leagues.>1 Moderate breeze and fine pleasent weather. Variation 3o 17' West. SUNDAY 23<1rd. Winds SSE. Course South. Distce in miles>1 5. <1Latd in>1 Io 40' <1N. Longd in West from Greenwich>1 28o 12'. <1Bearings at Noon Island>1 <1of Bonajista SE Point N 23o E Dt>1 312 <1leagues.>1 A Moderate Steady breeze and fine clear weather. The Ship by observation at Noon is Eight miles to the northward of the Logg. MONDAY 24th. <1Winds SBE to SEBS. Course S>1 49o <1W. Distce in miles>1 50. <1Latd in>1 Io7' <1N. Longd in West from Greenwich>1 28o50'. <1Bearings at Noon>1 <1Do>1 N25o <1E Dt>1 328 <1leagues.>1 First part a Moderate breeze and clear weather, remainder fresh breeze and Clowdy with some flying showers of rain. Variation pr Azimuth this Morning 3o22' w. At Noon by Observation found the ship 11 Miles ahead of the Logg. 16] TUESDAY 25<1th. Winds SE to SEBE. Course S>1 30o <1W. Distce in miles>1 95. <1Latd in>1 0o15' <1South. Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 29o30'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do>1 N26o <1E Dt>1 358 <1leagues.>1 A Gentle breeze and clear weather, with a moist air. Soon after sun Rise found the Variation of the Compass to be 2o24' West being the mean result of severs very good Azimuths, this was just before we crossed the line in Longitude of 29o29' West from Greenwich. We also try'd the Deping Needle belonging to the Royal Society and found the North point to dep 26o below the Horizon, but this instrument cannot be used at sea to any great degree of accuracy on account of the motion of the Ship which hinders the Needle from resting; however as the Ship was pretty steady and by means of a swinging table I had made for that purpose we could be certain of the dep to two degrees at most.s The observed Latd and that by account nearly agrees. WEDNESDAY 26th. <1Winds SE to SSE. Course S>1 31o <1W. Distce in miles>1 77. <1Latd in 1o21' S. Longd in West from Greenwich>1 30o18'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Do N>1 25o30' <1E Dt>1 385 <1leagues.>1 First part light airs and clowdy weather, the remainder a Moderate breeze and clowdy. After we had got an Observation and it was no longer doubted that we were to the southward of the Line, the Ceremony on this occassion practised by all Nations was not omitted: every one that could not prove upon a Sea Chart that he had before crossed the Line, was either to pay a bottle of Rum or be ducked in the sea, which former case was the fate of by far the greatest part on board, and as several of the Men choose to be ducked and the weather was favourable for that pur- pose, this ceremony was performed on about 20 or 30 to the no small deversion of the rest.s THURSDAY 27th. <1Winds SSE to SE. Course S>1 38o15' <1W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 79. <1Latd in>1 2o23' <1S. Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 31o7'. <1Bearings>1 [17 <1at Noon Do>1 N26o <1E Dt>1 410 <1leagues.>1 Fresh gales and close Clowdy weather. Variation 2o48' w. FRIDAY 28th. <1Winds SE to SEBE. Course S>1 33o <1W. Distce in miles>1 93. <1Latd in>1 3o41'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 32o29'. <1Bearings at Noon Do.>1 Fresh Breeze and fine clear weather. At a little past <11>1 AM Longd in by the three following observations (viz.) by the Moon and the * Arietis, 32o27'o", by the moon and Pollux 32oo'15", by Do 31 s48'32"; the mean of the Whole is 32o5'16" West from Greenwich, which is 31' more westerly then the Longd by account carried on sence the last observation. The two first observation were made and computed by Mr Green and the last by my self. The * Arietis was on one side of the Moon and Pollux on the other. This day at Noon being nearly in the Latd of the Island Ferdinand Noronha to the westward of it by some charts and to the Eastward by other, was in expectation of seeing it or some of those shoals that are laid down in most charts between it and the main, but we saw neither one nor a nother. We certainly pass'd to the Eastward of the Island, and as to the shoals I do not think they exhist grounding this my opinion on the Journal of some East India Ships I have seen, who were detaind some days by con- trary winds between this Island and the main and being 5 or Six Ships in compney, doubtless must have seen some of them did they lay as marked in the charts.s SATURDAY 29th. <1Winds ESE. Course SBW. Distce in miles 1o1. Latd>1 <1in>1 5o25' <1S. Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 32o48' <1W.>1 Fresh breeze and pleasent weather. Variation of the compass 2o25' w.s SUNDAY 30th. <1Winds EBS. Course S3/4W. Distce in miles>1 107. <1Latd in>1 7o8'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 33o4'. A Steady breeze and for the most part close clowdy weather. Variation by several Azimuths <11>1o31' w. At Noon the observed Latitude 7 Miles to southward of account. MONDAY 31st. <1Winds E to ESE. Course S1/2W. Distce in miles>1 114. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 9o<11'. Longd in West from Greenwich>1 33o16'. A Fresh breeze and clear weather. Variation oo15' West. Observed latd again to the south- ward of the Log. 18] [NOVEMBER 1768] TUESDAY <11st. Winds ESE. Course S3/4W. Distce in miles>1 98.s <1Latd in>1 <1South>1 10o38' <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 33o31'. Moderate breeze and for the most part clowdy. Variation by the mean of several Azimuths 0o58' w in the Eveng and in the Morning found it to be 0o18' West. WEDNESDAY <12nd. Winds ESE & E. Course SBW. Distce in miles>1 132. <1Latd in>1 s 12o48'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 32o20' <1Pr Observation.>1 A Steady breeze and fine pleasant weather. This afternoon by the mean of several Azimuths and the Amplitude found the Variation to be 0o34' East, from which it appears that about the foregoing Noon we have cross'd the line of no variation in the Latd of 10o38' s and according to the following observations in 32o0' West Longd from Greenwich. At 5h5'o" apparent time AM the Longd of the Ship, per observation of the > and the * Aldebaran was found to be 32o0'45". At 8h 17'0" per @ and > 32o 25'o", and at9h 0'16"-32o 19'0". Mean of the three is 32o 14'55". And again at 7h 12'52' per @ & > 32o 10'4", and at 7h 19'42" per @ & > 32o 15'20"; the mean of these two is 32o 12'42" and the mean of the Whole is 32o 13'43" West from Green- wich which is less by a whole degree than that by account, which is a considerable error to be made in five days in these low latitudes, one would think from this that we must have had a current seting to the Eas[t]ward, which is not likely that it should set againist the settled trade wind. The three first of these observation were made by Mr Green and the two last by my self. THURSDAY <13rd. Winds EBS & E. Course S>1 15o <1W. Distce in miles>1 128. <1Latd in>1 14o 51'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 33o 7'. A fresh trade wind and fair weather. Variation pr Azimuth this evening 0o 47' E and at a Little past 9 am Longd in per @ & > 33o 0' W of Greenwich. FRIDAY <14th. Winds EBS. Course S>1 19o 30' <1W. Distce in miles>1 125. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 16o49'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 33o37'. A Steady gale and fair weather. PM Variation pr Az. 1o 29' w Do 1o 28' w and by the Ampd 1o 12' W. Mean 1o 23' West, by which it appears that we have again crossed the line of no variation. At 1/2 past 9 am the Longd of the Ship per observation of the @ & > 33o26'30".s [19 SATURDAY <15th. Winds E to Ne. Course S>1 30o35' <1West. Distce in miles>1 109. <1Latd in>1 18'22". <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 34o50'. Fine pleasent weather. Variation pr Azimuth this morning 3o21' E which makes me doubtfull of the Variation found yester. tho at the time I had not the least room to doubt of the accurrecy of the observations. Longd pr Obn 34o43'3o" West.s SUNDAY 6<1th. Winds NNE, Varble, South. Course S>1 55o <1W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 74. <1Latd in>1 19o3'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 35o5o'. First and latter part Squally with heavy Showers of rain, Middle Moderate and fair. I now determined to put into Rio de Janeiro in preference to any other Port in Brazil or Faulkland Islands, for at this place I knew we could recruit our stock of Provisions, several Articles of which I found we should in time be in want of, and at the same time procure Live Stock and refreshments for the People and from the reception former Ships had met with here I doubted not but we should be well received. MONDAY 7<1th. Winds SE to NE. Course>1 S58o <1W. Distce in miles>1 68. <1Latd in>1 19o46'. <1Longd in West from>1 36o50'. Moderate breeze and clear weather. PM found the Variation to be 4o49' Et. At 6 Sounded and had 32 fathom water the bottom Coral rocks fine sand and shells, which soundings we carried upon a sw1/2w Course 9 or 1o Leagues then had no ground with 100 fathom. We were by our account and run afterwards 54 Leagues East from the Coast of Brasil and to the Southward of the Shoals call'd Abrollos as they are laid down in most charts. TUESDAY 8<1th. Winds NNE, NBW, SSW to SBW. Course S 50o W.>1 <1Distce in miles>1 140. <1Latd in>1 21o 16'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 37o35'. Fresh breeze and Clowdy weather. PM Variation by the mean of 12 Azimuth 5o26' East, and by an Amplitude in the morning 7o52'. At 6 AM saw the Land of Brasil bearing Nw1/2N Distce 8 or 1o Leagues; at 8 sounded had 37 fathom Coarse sand broken shells and coral rocks. At 9 brought too and spoke with a fishing Boats who informed us that the land in sight lay to the southward of Santo Espiritu, it appears high and mountainous. The drawing No 3 exhibites a View of this land as it appeared from the Ship, A being near to Santo Espiritu, and a remarkable hill B bore Nw1/2N Distce 7 or 8 Leagues. Made sail in shore the wind being Southerly, had from 20] the above depth to 14 fathom the same sort of bottom, found the Ship at Noon by observation 1o Miles to the Southwd of Account, which I suppose to [be] occassioned by a Current seting between the South and West. WEDNESDAY 9<1th. Winds SSE, SSW, South. Course S>1 62o 15' <1West.>1 <1Distce in miles>1 28 <1M. Latd in>1 21 o29'. First and latter parts hazey with a Moderate breeze. Middle fresh gales with thunder Lightning and rain. At 3 pm Tack'd in 16 fathom, distance from the Shore 5 Leagues, the land extending from the NwBw to NE. At 5 took the 2nd reef in the topsails and got down top gt yards. Stood to the SE untill midnight then Tacked, soundings from 16 to 55 fm. At 8 AM Loosed the reefs out of the topsails and got top gs yards across, unstowed the Anchors and bits the Cables. At Noon Latd Obserd 21o29' s' the land extending from SWBS to NNW, distant 4 Leagues. Soundings from 55 to 10fm s THURSDAY 10<1th. Winds SSE, SEBS, SBE. Course E1/4 S. Distce in miles>1 17 <1M. Latd in>1 21o30'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich pr Acct.>1 37o43'. Moderate breeze and hazey upon the land. Stood in for the Shore SW1/2w depth of Water from Io to 9fm and from 9 to 16s being then 4 Leagues from the land, from 16 it shoald in gradually to 5 s Then we tacked being about 11/2 League from the shore. The extreames of the land to the Southward which we took for Cape Ss Thomes bore S3/4W distant 4 Leagues, the land from Cape St Thomes to the Northward lies NBE1/2E, along the shore is lowland covered with wood, and sandy beaches, but inland are very high mountains the greatest part of them being hid in the clowds. Stood off untill 5 in the morning East and EBs depth of water 1o, 2o, 16, 23, and 30 s At Noon Latd observed 21o30', depth of water 14 s grey sand with black specks, extreames of the land from SWBW to NNW distant 12 or 14 Leagues. FRIDAY <111th. Winds SE to E. Course S>1 5o <1W. Distce in miles>1 67. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 23o37'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 37o49'. First part and latter [21 Moderate breeze and fair, but Clowdy and Hazey over the land. Middle a fresh breeze and clowdy: at 8 Tacked and Stood to the NE. Extreames of the land to the Southward which we took for Cape St Thomes sw1/2s dist. 5 or 6 Leagues, depth of water 13 s grey sand. At a 11 ams Tacked in 15s and stood to the ssE and 3 am stood over a Shoal or bank of 6 s afterwards the depth increased to 3o fathom. At Noon in 36s Latd Observ'd 22o37' s, which is 1o Miles to the southward of the Log; no land in sight.s SATURDAY <112th. Winds NE, ENE. Course S>1 60o30' <1W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 59. <1Latd in>1 23o6'. <1Bearings at Noon Isle of Cape Frio N>1 60o <1E Distce>1 4 <1leagues.>1 Gentle breezes and fine clear wear. At 2 pm sounded but had no ground with 38 s and soon after Sounded and had none at 50 s from which it appears that we are to the southward of the Bank we have been upon for these two days past. It extends off from the land betwn the Lat. 21o & 22o not less then 15 or 20 Leags--how much farther I know not; standing in from sea the depth of water very soon deminisheth from 30 to 20 & 17 fathm afterwards gradually to 9, 8 and even to 6 fm but between this shoal Water and the main which is 6 or 7 Leagues, you will have 1o, 12 and even 16 fm till you come within two or three Leagues of the Shore, the bottom is of Various kinds, somtimes corral rocks, and broken shells, Course sand and broken shells, Small Stones, and at other times fine sand, Varying almost every cast of the Lead. At 5 pm saw the land bearing NwBw1/2w Distt 10 or 12 Leagues which proved to be the Island off Cape Frio: it appeared in two Hillocks and from the Deck looked like two small Islands. Took several Azimuths of the Sun which gave the Variation 6o40' East. At 8 am the Isle of Cape Frio bore WBN, 4 Leags, this Island is Situated in the Latd of 23o2's and according to our reckoning in the Longd of 38o45' West from Greenwich, but from many circumstances I have good reason to think that our reckoning is wrong and that it lies in the Longd of 41o10' w. It is not of a large circuit but tolerable high with a hollow in the middle which makes it looke like two Islands when it first makes it appearence out of the water, it lays not far from the main which here with the Island forms a right Angle one side trending North and the other West. To the Northward of the Island and between it and the Main there appears to lay several smaller Islands 22] near each other. The Mains land on the sea Coast appears to be low, but inland are high mountains. Drawing No 4 exhibites a View of this Island when it bore wNw distant 4 Leagues. SUNDAY 13th. <1Winds EBN, Calm, SE.>1 Fore and latter parts a gentle Sea breeze and clear weather, the middle calm. PM standing a long shoar for Rio de janeiro, observed that the land on the Sea coast is high and mountainous, and the shoar forms some small Bays or Coves wherein are sandy beaches. At 8 shortend sail, the Sugr Loaf Hill at the west entrance to Rio de Janeiro,s NNw dist. 4 or 5 Leagues, at the same time was abreast of two small rocky Islands that lies about 4 Miles from the shore. At 9 am sprung up a light breeze at sE at which time we made sail for the Harbour, and set the Pinnace with a Lieutt before us up to the City of Rio dejaneiro to acquaint the Vice Roys with the reasons that induced us to put in here; which was to procure Water and other refreshments; and to desire the assistance of a Pilot to bring us into proper anchoring ground. At Noon standing in for the Harbour. MONDAY 14<1th.>1 Moderate Sea and Land breezes and fine plasant weather. At 5 pm anchor'd in 5 fathom waterjust above the Isle of Cobras which lies before the City of Rio de Janeiro: a little before we anchor'd the Pinnace ret'd and inform'd me that the Viceroy had thought proper to detain the Officer untill I went a shore.s Soon after we anchor'd a boat came on board bringing several of the Viceroys officers who asked ma[n]y questions in respect to the Ship, from whence She came, Cargo, number of men Guns &ca all of which was answerd to their satisfaction--they told me that it was the custom of this Port to detain the first officer that came from any ship on her first Arrival untill a Boat from the Vice roy had visited her, that my [23 officer would be sent on board as soon as they got a shore, which was accordingly done. About this time a Boat fill'd with soldiers kept rowing about the Ship, which had orders as I afterwards understood, not to suffer any one of the Officers or Gentlemen except my self to go out of the ship. In the Morning I waited upon the Viceroy and obtain'd leave to purchase Provisions, Refreshments &c for the Ship, but obliged me to employ a person to buy them for me, under a pretence that it was the custom of the place, and he likewise in- sisted (notwithstanding all I could say to the contrary) on puting a Soldier into the Boats that brought any thing to and from Ship, aledging that it was the Orders of his Court and they were such as he could not despence with, and this indignity I was obliged to submit to other wise I could not have got the supply I wanted, being willing as much as in me lay to avoide all manner of disputes that might cause the least delay, and at the same time to convince him that we did not come here to trade as I believe he imagined, for he certainly did not believe a word about our being bound to the Southward to Observe the transit of Venus but look'd upon it only as an invented story to cover some other design we must be upon, for he could form no other Idea of that Phenomenon (after I had explained it to him) then the North Star passing thro the South Pole (these were his own words.) He would not permit the Gentlemen to reside a shore during our stay here, nots permit Mr Banks to go into the Country to gather Plants &ca but not the least hint was given me at this time that no one of the Gentlemen was to come out of the Ship but my self, or that I was to be put under a guard when I did come; but this I was soon convinced of after I took my leave of His Excellency and found that an Officer was to attend upon me where ever I went, which at first the Viceroy pretended was only meant as a compliment and to order me all the Assistance I wanted. This day the people were em- ploy'd in unbending the Sails, in fiting and rigging the spare top- masts in the room of the others, and getting on Shore empty water casks.s TUESDAY 15<1th.>1 Fine pleasent weather. Received on board fresh Beef and Greens for the Ships Compney with which they were 24] served every day dureing our stay here. Got all the empty Casks on Shore and set the Coopers to Work to repair them, Heeld and Boottoped the Starboard side.s WEDNESDAY 16<1th.>1 Set up the Forge to repair the Iron work, the People Employ'd in Heeling and Boottoping the Larbd Side, Blacking the Yards &ca. THURSDAY 17<1th.>1 Set some people to repair the sails and the Caulkers to caulk the ship, the rest of the people empd in the hold and about the Rigging. For these three days past I have remonstrated to the Viceroy and his officers againest the puting a guard into my Boat, thinking that I could not answer it to the Admiralty the tamely submitting to such a Custom which when practised in its full force must bring disgrace to the Brittish Flag, on the other hand I was very loath to enter into disputes seeing how much I was like to be delay'd and imbarrassed in geting the supplys I wanted, for it was with much difficulty that I obtain'd leave for one of my people to attend the Market to buy necessarys for my Table and to Assist the Agent to buy the things for the Ship; having gain'd this point and settled every thing with the Agent in regard to what was wanting for the Ship: I resolved rather than be made a prisoner in my own Boat not to go any more a Shore unless I could do it without having a Soldier put into thes Boat as had hitherto been done, and thinking that the Vice roy might lay under some Mistake which on proper application might be cleared up: I therefore drew up a Memorial, stating the whole case and sent to the Viceroy this afternoon, and thus a paper war commence'd between me and his Excellency wherein I had no other advantage then the racking his invention to find reasons for treating us in the manner he did, for he never would relax the least from any one point.s FRIDAY 18<1th.>1 This Day I received an Answer to my Memorial wherein he tells me amongst other things that if I think it hard submitting to the Customs of this Port I may leave it when I please, but this did not suit rny purpose at present, but I resolved to make my stay as short as possible. I must own that this Memorial of the 25] Viceroys was well drawn up and very much to the purpose which is more than I can say of any of the Subsequent ones.s SATURDAY 19<1th.>1 Close Clowdy weather Empd geting on board Rum, Water, and other necessarys. Caulking and fiting the Ship. Punished John Thurman Seaman with 12 lashes for refusing to assist the sail- maker in repairing the sails. SUNDAY 20<1th.>1 First part close Clowdy weather, the Middle a very hard Storm of wind and rain, the latter Moderate with rain. This afternoon sent Lieutenant Hicks in the Pinnace with an Answer to the Viceroys Memorial, with orders not to suffer a soldier to be put into thes Boat upon which the guard boat attended him to the landing place and reported it to the Viceroy, who refused to receive the Memorial and order'd Mr Hicks on board again, but in the mean time they had put a guard into the boat which Mr Hicks insisted should be order'd out that he might return on board in the same manner as he came without a guard, and upon his refuseing to return otherways all the Boats Crew were by Armed force taken out of the Boat (tho they gave no provications or made the least re- sistance) and hurried to prision where they remain'd untill the next day: Mr Hicks was then put into one of their Boats and brought on board under the Custody of a guard: emmidiately upon my hearing of this I wrote to the Viceroy demanding my Boat and Crew and his Excellencys reason for detaining her: and inclosed the Memorial he had before refused to recieve this I sent by a Petty Officer, as I had never objected tos a guard being put into any of my Boats wherein was no Commission Officer, he was admitted a Shore and deliver'.d the letter and was told an Answer would be sent the next day. This Evening between 8 and 9 oClock came on an excessive hard storm of wind and rain, the Long boat coming on board at the same time with 4 Pipes of Rum in her, the rope they got hold of broke and she went a drift,s the Yawl was emidiately sent after her, but the Long boat filling with water they brought her to a grappling and left her and the Yawl with the People got on board about three in the Morn- ing.s Early this morning I sent to the Viceroy to acquaint him with the loss of our boat, to desire leave and the Assistance of a Shore boat to look after her and at the same time to demand the Pinnace and 26] her crew; after some time the whole was granted and we were so fortunate as to find the Long boat the same day and lik[e]wise the 4 Pipes of Rum but every other thing that was in her was lost. MONDAY 21<1st>1. This Morning I received his Excellencys Answer to my last Memorial and letter, in his letter he owns there was some indecency in detain[in]g the boat, but lays the blame to my Officer, who only executed the orders I gave him with spirit. In one part of his Memorial he says that from the built of the Ship and other circumstances he doubts that she is the Kings, this I thought proper to answer in writing, by telling his Excellency that I was ready to produce my Commission.s Rain the most part of this day. TUESDAY 22<1nd.>1 Moderate breezes with frequent Showers of rain. Empd geting on board Water, Provisions &ca Caulking the Ship and repairing the sails. WEDNESDAY 23<1rd.>1 Fine pleasent weather. Emps as before and seting up the rigging. This day I received from the Viceroy an Answer to my last Memorial wherein he still keeps up his doubts, she is not a Kings Ship and accuseth my people of smugling a thing I am very certain they were not guilty of, and for which his Excellency could produce no proff, notwithstanding many artfull means were made use of to tempt such of our people as were admitted a shore to trade by the Very Officers that were under his Excellencys own roof. I thought it incumbant on me to answer this Memorial, in which I desired his Excellency to take into custody any one of my people that should be found tiading even if it amounted to no more then one of the sailors seling his cloths from of his Back for a Bottle of Rum, for what his Excellency call'd Smugling I was very certain amounted to no more, and even this was only suspicions of my own. THURSDAY 24<1th.>1 This day a Spanish Packet (a small Brigg) from Buenos Ayress put in here in her way to Spain, this Vessel belonged to His Catholic Majesty, and notwithstanding the Viceroy had all along pretended that the orders he had respecting Foreign Vessels were general yet this Vessel met with very different treatment from us, no Guard was put over her and her officers and crew went where ever they pleased.s [27 FRIDAY 25th and SATURDAY 26th. Employ'd geting on board water as fast as the Coopers could set up and repair the Casks, seting up the rigging and caulking the Ship sides. SUNDAY 27<1th>1. Bent the sails and cleaned the Ship fore and abaft. MoNDAY 28<1th.>1 Fine pleasent weather, the caulkers having finished the sides paid them with tar. This Day I unexpectedly received an Answer to my last Memorial wherein were only a few week argue- ments to support his Excellencys suspicions that the Ship did not belong to the King and that my people smugled: this Memorial I answerd. TUESDAY 29<1th>1. Employ'd lashing the Cask that were on the upper decks and between decks and making ready for sea. WEDNESDAY 30<1th>1. Punished Robt Anderson Seaman and Willm judge Marine with twelve lashes each, the former for leaving his duty a Shore and attempting to disert from the Ship, and the latter for useing abusive language to the Officer of the Watch, and John Readons Boatswains Mate with twelve lashes for not doing his duty in punishing the above two Men. Sent a Shore to the Viceroy for a Pilot to carry us to sea, who sent one on board together with a large Boat, which I did not want, but it is the Custom in this Port for the Pilots to have such a boat to attend upon the Ships they Pilot out and for which you must pay 10/- per Day besides the Pilots fwes which is Seven pounds four shillings Sterling. [DECEMBER 1768] THURSDAY <11st>1 DECEMBER. Wind at sE which hinder'd us from sailing as we intended. Recd on board a large quantity of fresh Beef Greens and Yams for the Ships Compney. FRIDAY <12nd.>1 This Morning sent a Packet for the Secretary of the Admiralty, on board the Spanish Packet <1Hopp>1 Don Antonio Monte Negro y Velasco, commander, containing copies of all the Memo- rials and letters that have pass'd between the Viceroy and me, and likewise another Packet containing duplicates thereof I left with the Viceroy to be by him forwarded to Lisbon.s At 9 weigh'd and came 28] to sea and turn'd down the Bay.s Peter Flower seaman fell over board and before any assistance could be given him was drown'd, in his room we got a Portuguse.s SATURDAY 3<1rd.>1 First part Moderate breezes at sE remainder fresh gales at South with rain. At 1 pm Anchor'd in 18 fathom water in the Great Road (see Plan). SUNDAY 4<1th.>1 Fore and Middle parts fresh gales at SSE with heavy rain latter Variable light airs and fair weather, hoisted in the Long boat and secure'd her. MONDAY 5<1th.>1 First part little wind, & Clowdy, middle Thunder lightning and rain, the latter little wind at sw and fair. At 4 AM [29 weighed and tow'd down the Bay (being calm) with an intent to go to Sea, but having two shott fired at us from Santa Cruz Fort was obliged to come to an Anchor and to send a boat to the fort to know the reason of their fireing, who it seems had no orders to let us pass without which no ship can go to sea. This surprise'd me not a little as I had but this very moming received a very polite litter from the Viceroy (in answer to one I had wrote some days ago) wherein he wished me a good Voyage. I immidiatly dispatched a Petty Officer to the Viceroy to know the reason why we was not permitted to pass the Fort, the Boat very soon return'd with an order to the Capt of the Fort to let us pass which order had been wrote some days ago but either by design or neglect had not been sent. At a 11 weigh'd in order to put to sea but before we could heave up the Anchor it got hold of a rock where it held fast in spite of all our endeavours to clear it untill the Sea breeze set in. TUESDAY 6<1th.>1 The Sea breeze continued all these 24 hours, at 2 pm the Ship tended to the wind which cleared the Anchor, hove it up and run higher up the Bay and Anchor'd in 15 fathom water a little below the Isle or Church of Bon Voyage. Found the Cable Very much rub'd several fathoms from the Anchor. WEDNESDAY 7<1th.>1 First and latter pa[r]ts a gentle breeze at SE and East, the Middle Calm: at 5 am weigh'd and tow'd out of the Bay, at 8 discharged the Pilot and his Boat, a breeze of wind springing up Easterly made sail out to sea and sent a Boat to one of the Islands laying before the Bay to cut Brooms a thing we were not permitted to do while we lay in the Harbour. The Guard Boat which had con- stantly attended all the time we lay in the Bay and Harbour did not leave us untill the Pilot was discharged. At Noon the Sugar Loafe at the West entrance of the Bay bore NBW1/2W distant Eight or Nine Miles. A De[s]cription of the Bay or River of Rio de Janeira The few days delay we met with in geting out of of Rio de Janeira gave me an oppertunity to draw a Plot or Sketch of great part of the Bay, but the strict watch that was kept over us during our whole stay hinderd me from takeing so accurate a Survey as I wished to have done and as all the observations I could make was taken from on board the Ship, the Plan hath no pretentions to accuracy, yet it will give a very good Idea of the place, difering not much from the truth in what is essential.s The Bay of Rio de Janeira is by some called a River which its 30] name signifies, but this I think is improper it being nothing more than a deep inlet of the Sea, into which no considerable fresh water River empties it self that I could hear of: be this as it will, it is Capacious and Capable of containing a Vast number of Shipping where they may ride in perfect Security. The entrance is Situated wBN I8 Leagues from Cape Frio and may be known by a remarkable Hills in the form of a Sugr Loafe at the West entrance of the Bay; but as all the Coast is exceeding high terminating at top in peek'd Hills, it is much better known by the Islands laying before it, one of which (calld Rodonda) is high and round in form of a Hay Stack and lies SBW 21/2 Leagues from the Sugr Loaf or entrance of the Bay. A little without the East entrance of the Bay and near the shoar lay two Islands near each other. 3 Leagues to the Eastward of these Islands and 4 Miles from the shoar are 2 low rocky Islands which are the first you meet with in coming from the Eastward or from Cape Frio. To Sail into Rio de Janeira there is not the least danger untill you are the length of the Fort of Santa Cruz which stands on the point &s forms the East entrance of the Bay or River. At the West entrance is Fort Lozio built upon a Rock which lies close to the Main land, the distance from one Fort to the other is 3/2 of a Mile East and West, but the Channel for shipping is not quite so broad by reason of suncken rocks lays off each of the Forts, these rocks may not be properly place'd in the Plan being only laid down from the information of the Pilot. The narrows of the Channell here causeth the tides both Flood and Ebb to run pretty strong in so much that you cannot stem it without a fresh breeze of wind, nor is it safe anchoring because the bottom is foul and rocky. By keeping in the Middle of the Channel you will not only avoide being force'd to come to an Anchor but all other dangers. Being got within the Entrance your course up the Bay is first NBW1/2W and NNW something more than one League. This brings you the length of the great Road, and Nw and wNw one League more carries you the length of the Ilha dos Cobras which lies before the City, keep the North side of this Island close on board and Anchor above it in 5 fathom water where you see most convenient [31 before the monestry of Benidictines which stands upon a hill at the Nw end of the City: Small Ships and Vessels generaly lay between the Town and the Ilha dos Cobrass but in order to get there they must come round the North side of that Island. I shall now give the best description I can of the different Forts that are erected for the defence of this Bay: the first you meet with coming in from Sea is a Battry of 22 Guns, seated in the bottom of a Sandy Bay which is on the South side of the Sugr Loafe, and can be designed for no other use than to hinder an Enemy from landing in that Vally from whence I suppose they may march up to the town, or round by the west side of the Sugar Loafe to attack the Forts that are on that side of the entrance into the Bay, the first of which is seated under the foot of the Sugar Loafe on a low isthmus which Joines the peninsula or point of the Bay with the land of the Sugar Loafe, it appears to be a square of Stone work, without a ditch, with Bastions and furnished with cannon. A little within this Fort are 2 Battries of 5 or 6 Guns each, they are design'd to play upon Shipping but nither these Batterys or the Fort are out of the reach of a Ships Cannon. Hard by these batteries stands Fort Lozio it is an erregular Hexagon built of Stone upon a small rock standing at the west entrance into the Bay and is surrounded on all sides by the sea, it is mounted with 14 or 15 Guns which are placed so as toplay uponshipping going in and out of the harbour, there is only one way to go into it which is by steps leading up to a Sally port on the Nw side. Opposite this is the Fort of Santo Cruz built upon a low rocky point that forms the East entrance of the Bay, it hath the appearence of a regular fortification of stone work built upon the Slope of the rock on which account there are in some places two tier of guns, it hath no ditch but on the land side where it is cut out of the rock, in every other part the sea washes up to its walls, it seems every where to be well mounted with cannon, except on the land side where none are wanting, because they would be of no use the land being so very high above it, Yet after all neither this Fort nor those on the opposite shoar do not appear to be of any great strength even againest shipping for which they are wholy designed being the key to this Bay. They lay low and Ships may come so near as to have them intirely within the reach of their guns, but it would require five or Six sail of the Line to insure Success. Between two and three Miles within the entrance of the Bay, on the west side is the Isle Borghleone upon the East point of which is erected a Battery of Stone and Mounted with I7 pieces of Cannon, besides this on the highest part of the Island is a Battery of 6 32] Guns Mounted on an open platform these Batterys are design'd to play upon Shipping in the Bay and seem not ill design'd for that purpose, yet they would be oblige'd to submit to the Attack of shipping or that of a land force there being nothing to hinder the latter from landing on the Island behind the Batterys. Opposite to this Island on the low point on the East side of the Bay is the Battery of St Domonica of 7 guns--a little without this Battery on the East side of the Bay is a small, but high Island close to the Shore on the top of which is the Church of Bonn Voyage, about half way down the clift below the Church is a Battery of 3 guns, neither the one nor the other of these Batterys are of much con- cequence, they serve indeed to force Shipping coming into the Bay between two fires and hinder them from anchoring on that side untill they are silenced. The next Fortification is that on the Ilha dos Cobras, the East point and North side of which consists of a Rampart, Bastion and a Parapet faced with stone and mounted with cannon, but no ditch which is not much wanting as the Works are built on the edge of the riseing ground: the other side next the Town hath no other inclosure but a plain Wall without any Guns. It is said that the works on this Island are in bad repair on account of being so extensive that they would take more men to defend them than they could spare and placeing no dependencey ins their strength let them go to decay. The ground on which the Monistry of Benidictines Stands commands the works on the Island. Over the South end of the City Stands the Castle of St Sebastian, it is seated upon a hill and Commands the whole town and this is all I know of it, only that it is not counted a place of any great strength.s For the defence of these Forts and the town the King of Portugal Maintains Seven Regments of Regular Troops, those I saw were well cloathed and in a good condition but this as I was told was not the case with the whole; besides these troops are three Regments of Militia two of Horse and one of foot, these consist of the principal inhabitants of the place who serve without pay, Muster and Exercise in timess nine months in the year on which account they rank with the regular Troops. <1The City of Rio de Janeiro>1 is in the Latd of 22o50' South and Longi- tude of 42o15' Wests from Greenwich according to Observations made at Sea; it is seated on a plain close to the Shore on the West side of the Bay at the foot of several high Mountains, it is neither ill [33 designed nor ill built. The Houses are mostly of Stone generally one and two Story high, with Balconys to the most of them, the Streets are of a convenient bredth and cross each other at right angles and the whole City may be about 3 Miles in compass. It is Governed by a Governor appointed by the King, the present Governor is Don Anto Mendoza y Fartados who is no friend to the English; it likewise is the Residence of the Vice roy and Captain general of the States of Brasil, who is as absolute as any Monarch on Earth and the people to all appearence as much slaves. This City and adjacent parts about the Bay are said to contain one hundred thousand Souls, but not much above a twentieth part are Whites the rest are blacks many of whom are free and seem to live in tolerable circumstances. The City of Rio de Janeiro is supply'd with water from two different parts of the adjacent Mountains: that which comes from the southward is conveyed across a deep Vally by an aqueduct which consists of a great number of arches placed in two rows one upon the other, from thence in pipes to a Fountain which stands in the middle of the square before the Viceroys Palaces; at a nother part of the City is a Reservoir to which the water is convey'd much in the same manner; from these two places, but mostly from the former the inhabitants fetch all they want where there is alwayss a Centinal to keep order: and it [is] likewise here that the ships water: they land their Casks upon a smooth sandy beach about one hundred yards from the fountain, and upon application to the Viceroy you have a Centinal to look after them and to clear the way for to come at the fountain to fill your water. Upon the whole Rio de Janeira is not a bad place for Ships to put in at that wants refreshments, not only because the Harbour is safe and commodious, but that Provisions and all manner of refreshments may be had in tollerable plenty; Bread and Flower are however Scarce and dear, being brought hither from Europe and are never the better for that passage: in lieu of these are to be had Vams and Casadas--all sorts of grain tho it may be the Produce of this Country is dear. Fresh Beef (tho bad) is to be had in plenty, at about 21/4d a pound and Jerke'd Beef about the same price. This is cure'd with salt and dry'd in the shade, the bones being first taken out and the meat cut into large but very thin slices, it eats very 34] well and if kept in a dry place will remain good a longs time at sea. Rum, Sugar and Mollasses are all good and Cheap, Tobacco is cheap, but not good. Mutton they have very little; Hoggs and all sorts of Poultry are to be got tho in no great p[l]enty and of Course rather dear. Garden stuff and Fruits in plenty, but none that will keep long at Sea except Pumpkings. They have a yard for building Shipping and a small Hulk to heave down by, there being no other Method to come at a Ships bottom as the Tides doth not rises above 6 or 7 feet at the New and full Moon, it is high water at that time about 8 oClock when the land and Sea breezes are regular, but when they arc not the Course of the tides are alter'd. The Sea breeze begins to blow about 1o or 12 oClock and continues untill sun set when it dies away and is succeeded by the land breeze which con- tinues most part of the night. From a little after Sunrise untill the Sea breeze sets in, it is generally calm and is then the hotist and disagreeablest part of the whole day.s THURSDAY <18th. Winds ENE, NE, NBE. Course S 7o30' W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 85. <1Latd in>1 24o 17'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 42o 29'. Fore and middle parts Moderate breezes and Clowdy, remainder little wind and clear weather. At 3 pm the Boat return'd from the Island hoist'd her in and made sail. At 6 the Sugar Loaf at the west entrance of Rio de Janeiro bore N1/2E Destant 7 Leagues, it lies from the City of Rio de janeiro from which I take my departure sw distt 41/2 Miles. FRIDAY <19th. Winds N, NE, SSW. Course S>1 22o <1E. Distce in miles 32>1. <1Latd in>1 24o 46'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 42o 16'. Gentle Light breezes and fine clear weather. At 3 am the Fore topgt mast broke sho[r]t by the Cap. Put the Carpenters upon making another. SATURDAY <110th. Winds Southerly. Course SE>11/2<1E. Distce in miles>1 75. <1Latd in>1 25o 34'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 41o 12'. Moderate breezes with some flying showers of rain the first part. SUNDAY 11<1th. Winds Southerly. Course S>1 20o <1E. Distce in miles>1 9. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 25o 43'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 41o 8'. Little Wind and Clear Wear the most part of this day. Served Slops to the People. MONDAY 12<1th. Winds Varble. Course SSW. Distce in miles>1 34. <1Latd in>1 26o 14'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 41o 23'. First part Light airs remainder gentle breezes and clear wear. Found the Varian of the Compass by the Evening amplitude and an Azth in the Moming to [35 be 8o 30' E and the observed Latd at Noon to be short of that given by the Logg 10 Miles. Exercised the People at Great Guns and sm1 arms. TUESDAY 13<1th. Winds NE & NNE. Course S>1 19o40' <1W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 113. <1Latd in>1 28o0'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 42o6'. The first part gentle breezes and clear wr. Remainder a Steady gale the Weather [a] little hazey. Variation 8o23' East.s WEDNESDAY 14<1th. Winds NW, W, SBW. Course S>1 16o <1E. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 87. <1Latd in>1 29o24'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 41 o55'. First and later parts fresh breeze and Clowdy, Middle little wind, Thunder lightning and rain. The Caulkers Emp'd in Caulking the Decks.s THURSDAY 15<1th. Winds SWBS, S, and ESE. Course S>1 14o15' <1E.>1 <1Distce in miles>1 45. <1Latd in>1 30o8'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 41o39'. The first part a fresh gale and dark Clowdy weather, the remainder little wind and clear, a Large swell from the sw. FRIDAY <116th. Winds ENE, NE, NW. Course S>1 32o <1W. Distce in miles>1 86. <1Latd in>1 31 o21'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 42o32'. Gentle breezes and Clear weather. Variation 9o36' E. SATURDAY 17<1th. Winds Varble from NW, SW to SSE. Course S>1 14o <1W.>1 <1Distce in miles>1 56. <1Latd in>1 32o15'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 42o48'. Hazey with frequent showers of rain all the fore and middle part, latter clear weather with a gentle breeze of wind.s SUNDAY <118th. Winds SE to NE. Course S51>1o <1W. Distce in miles>1 43. <1Latd in>1 32o 42'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 43o 27'. First part light winds, the remainder fresh breeze and clear weather. Variation 11o 3' E. MONDAY 19<1th. Winds Northerly. Course SW. Distce in miles>1 116. <1Latd in>1 34o4'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 45o6'. Steady fresh breeze and fair weather. At 1/2 past 5 pm Longitude in per observation of the Sun and Moon 43o38' West from Greenwich. Variation 11o3'. The ob- served Latd exceeds that given by the Log 7 Miles. 36] TUESDAY 20<1th. Winds Worth. Course SW1/4S. Distce in miles>1 160. <1Latd in>1 36o2'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 47o 14'. A fresh breeze of wind and hazey. Variation 13o44' E. Observe'd Latd exceeds that given by the Log 11 Miles. WEDNESDAY <121st. Winds Varble. Course S>1 42o45' <1W. Distce in miles>1 9o. <1Latd in>1 37o8' <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 48o3o'. Both wind and weather Variable, Saw several black sheer waters,s sounded twice this 24 hours but found no ground with 9o fathoms. The obser'd latd again ahead of the Logg, 16 Miles. THURSDAY 22<1nd. Winds Southerly. Course West. Distce in miles>1 40. <1Latd in>1 37o8'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 49o1'. Little wind the most part of this day. Variation 15o3o' E. Bent a New Suit of Sails.s FRIDAY 23<1rd. Winds Southerly. Course>1 N48o <1W. Distce in miles>1 33. <1Latd in>1 36o46'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 49o32'. Light Airs and clear weather. Saw some Turtle upon the water but could not catch any. Sounded no ground with 20o fm Variation 15o40' E.s SATURDAY 24<1th. Wind Calm, NEly. Course S>1 50o <1W. Distce in miles>1 39. <1Latd in>1 37o11'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 50o32'. First part Calm, remander a Gentle breeze and fine clear weather; this night had two sets of Observations of the Moon and the Star Aldebaran which gave the Longitude 49o54'15" w-the first set gave 49o55'15" and the 2nd 49o 53'15".<24>2 SUNDAY 25<1th. Winds NEBN to N. Course S>1 50o <1W. Distce in miles>1 116. <1Latd in>1 38o37'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 52o5'. Fresh breeze and Clear weather. MONDAY 26<1th. Winds North. Course SW. Distce in miles>1 158. <1Latd in>1 40o 19'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 54o30'. Fresh breeze of Wind and [37 Clowdy Weather; pass'd by some rock Weed: at Noon the Observed Latitude 26 Miles to the Southward of the Logg-which I believe is chiefly owing to her being generally steerd to the Southward of her Course, yesterday being Christmas day the People were none of the Soberest.s TUESDAY 27<1th. Winds Northerly. Course S>1 50o <1W. Distce in miles>1 123. <1Latd in>1 41o38'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 56o15'. Fresh breeze and hazey, with squalls, which oblige'd us dureing the night to take in the small sails and two reefs in the Topsails, which was let out in the morning. WEDNESDAY 28<1th. Winds SE to South. Latd in>1 40o49'. <1Longd in West>1 <1from Greenwich>1 58o29'. First part St[r]ong gales and clowdy which obliged us to get down topgt yards. At 8 pm it blew a Storm of wind with rain which brought us under our Main sail with her head to the westward, sounded and 50 fm fine brown sand, at midnight had 40 fm the same bottom, and 4 am had 46 fm Coral rock, the weather being more moderate made sail under the Courses, and at 9 set the Topsails with two reefs in. THURSDAY 29<1th. Winds NEterly. Course S>1 46o30' <1W. Distce in miles>1 81. <1Latd in>1 41o45'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 59o37'. First part Moderate breeze and Clowdy, remainder a fresh breeze and clear, pm loosed all the reefs out and got topgt yards aCross. Variation, pr Azth 16o 12': pr Ampd 16o32' mean of the two 16s22' East. Between 9 and 10 am took Seven sets of Observations between the Sun and Moon to find the Longitude of the Ship, each set consisting of three observations, the Mean of the Whole gave 59o 18'34" West of Greenwich; the result of each set was as follows (Viz.) <11>1st set 59o8', 2nd 59o21': 3rd 59o34': 4th 59o17: 5th 59o 11'45": 6th 59o 17'30" and the 7th 59o20'45". The greatest difference between any two (viz) between the 1st and 3rd is but 26', and the mean ofthese two differs from the mean of the whole only 2'26": this shews to what degree of accurcy these observations can be made, even by different persons, for 4 of these were made and computed by Mr Green and the rest by my self: the Longd given by the Ship reckoning from the last ob- servations five days ago differs only eight miles from the Obsers 38] which shews that we have not been in any currents. Soundings from 40 to 47 fm. FRIDAY 30<1th. Winds Varble. Course S>1 30o <1W. Distce in miles>1 54. <1Latd in>1 42o32'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 60o15'. Little wind sometimes Calm, the first part Clear weather, the remainder Fogy and hazey. Soundings from 44 to 49 fathom a grey sandy bottom. Caught both this morning and last night a great number of Insects, some were upon the wing, but the greatest part were upon the Water and many of these alive and of such Sorts as cannot fly far: and yet at this time we could not be less than 3o Leagues from land.s SATURDAY 31<1st. Winds SEerly. Course S>1 18o <1W. Distce in miles>1 43. <1Latd in>1 43o14'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 60o26'. Clowdy weather with some Lightning and a few Showers of rain. Variation 18o36' E. Soundings from 46 to 50 fm fine dark sand. [JANUARY 1769] SUNDAY 1<1st. Winds S to WSW. Course S>136o <1W. Distce in miles>1 39. <1Latd in>1 43o45'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 61 o8'28". First and latter parts fresh breezes and Clear Weather, in the Middle light airs and Calm. At Noon Longitude in per 4 sets of observations between the Sun and Moon 61o8'28" west, the difference between the least and greatest of these sets was 8' and the mean of two differs from the mean of the whole but 32": the Longd by account carried on from the last observations exactly agrees with the observations. Saw a great number of small Whales about the Ship. MONDAY <12nd. Winds Westerly. Course S>1 2o <1E. Distce in miles>1 92. <1Latd in>1 45o17'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 61o7'45". The first part of this day a Gentle gale and clear weather, the Middle Squally with Lightning and rain and some showers of large hail stones, towards Noon a Steady fresh breeze and clear weather. At Noon Longitude in by 3 sets of observations between the Sun and Moon 61o7'45" w, which is 43" to the Eastward of yesterdays observations. The Ship by the Log has made 4' East. TUESDAY 3<1rd. Winds Wt, Srly. Course S >111o. <1Distce in miles>1 122. <1Latd>1 <1in>1 47o17'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 61o29'45". Fresh gales and clear weather, under single reef'd Topsails. PM saw some Whales and [39 Porposes, and small red Crawfishs some of which we caught. At Noon saw several Birds of a light grey Colour like Pigeons but smaller.s These are of the Mother Caries kind. Longd in per Observation 61o29'45" West which is 22' to the westward of yesterdays, but the Ship hath made 41', concequently there is an error of 19' which is not to be supposed to being the Logg in one days run, but Be it which way it will its not great. WEDNESDAY <14th. Winds WNW to SWBS. Course>1 S 20o <1E. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 76. <1Latd in>1 48o28'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 60'51'. First part Gentle breezes and clear, latter fresh gales with heavy squalls of wind and rain which brought us under our Coursess and Main Topsail close reef'd. Soon after noon saw the appearence of land to the Eastward, and being in the Latd of Peypes Islands as its laid down in some Charts, immagined it might be it. Bore down to be certain and at 1/2 past 2 pm discover'd our mistake and hauld the wind again. At 6 Sounded and had 72 fathom black sand and Mud. Variation 19o45' Et THURSDAY 5<1th. Winds SW, NW, & NNE. Course S>1 28o <1W. Distce in>1 <1Files>1 92 <1M. Latd in>1 49o49'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 61o57'. The Fore part fresh gales and clear, the Middle light airs, remainder fresh gales and a little hazey. PM found the Variation to be 20o4' Et. Sound- ings 75 and 73 fathom. A great Number ofwater fowl about the ShI-p. FRIDAY 6<1th. Winds Wt, Srly. Course S>18o45' <1W. Distce in miles>1 92. <1Latd in>1 51o20'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 62o19'. Fresh gales, the Air very sharp and cold, frequent showers of Rain and Squalls. Soundings 75 fathom, saw some Penguins. Gave to each of the People a Fearnought Jacket and a pair of Trowers:s after which I never heard one man complain of cold not but the weather was cold enough. 40] SATURDAY 7<1th. Winds Southerly. Course S>1 62o <1E. Distce in miles>1 14- <1Latd in>1 51o26'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 61o59'. First part Strong gales with excessive hard Squales accompney'd with rain, at 9 pm wore and brought too her head to the westward under the Main sail, and reef'd the Fore sail for the first time; the Storm continued with little intermission untill toward Noon when it abated so as we could set the Topsails close reef'd.s Saw ma[n]y Penguins and some Seals. SUNDAY 8<1th. Winds S, SW, W, & NW. Course N>172o <1W. Distce in miles>1 33. <1Latd in>1 51o16'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 62o50'. Wind and weather both Variable, but for the most part little wind. PM loos'd the reef out of the Fore sail and two reefs out of each topsail. AM got topgt Yards aCross and Loose'd all the reefs out. Soundings from 80 to 75 fathom. MONDAY 9<1th. Winds WNW to SSW. Course S. Distce in miles>1 66. <1Latd>1 in 52o22'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 62o50'. First and latter part a Moderate breeze and clear weather, Middle squally with rain. PM found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 22o24' Et. Saw a great number of Penguins and seals.s TUESDAY 10<1th. Winds WSW & SW. Course S>1 18o <1Wt. Distce in miles>1 38. <1Latd in>1 52o54'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 63o10'. Moderate breezes and fine clear weather. At 2 pm Sounded and had 86 fathom black sand and small stones. Variation 21 o57' E. At 1/2 past 10 Tack'd having stood South 12 Leagues, after standing to the westward 14 Miles sounded and had 80 fathom black grey sand, 3 Leagues farther 76 fathom Course black sand. Tacked and at Noon had 70 fathom black gravel and small Stones of digerent Colours. Saw several flights of black sheer waters.s WEDNESDAY 11<1th. Winds Westerly. Course S>1 30o <1W. Distce in miles>1 100. <1Latd in>1 54o20'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 64o35' <1Pr Logg.>1 A Steady gentle breeze and clear weather. PM after standing 13 Leagues ssw Sounded and had 64 fathom, gravel and small Stones, standing swBs a <111>1 Leagues farther had 46 fathom, the same sort of bottom. [41 At 8 am Saw the Land of Terra del Fuego extending from the West to sEBs, distance offshore between 3 and 4 Leagues, sounded and had 35 fathom small soft slate stones. Variation 23o30' E. In rainging a long the shore to the SE at the distance of 2 or 3 Leagues had 27 and 26 fm a muddy bottom, saw some of the Natives who made a smook in several places, which must have been done as a signal to us as they did not continue it after we pass'd. By our Longitude we ought not to have been so far to the westward as Staten Land as it is laid down in the Charts, but it appear'd from Subsequent Observations that the Ship had got near a degree of Longitude to the westward of the Log which is 35 Miles in these Latitudes, probably this in part may be owing to a small current seting to the westward occasioned by the westerly Current which comes round Cape Horn and through Strait la Maire and the in draught of the Straits Magellan.s THURSDAY 12<1th. Winds N & NNE, Varble, WSW. Latd in>1 54o34' <1Pr>1 <1Obsern.>1 First part Moderate breeze and clowdy, remainder some times a fresh breeze, some times calm, hazey and rainy weather; at 5 the wind coming to the Noithward, oblige'd us to Tack and stand NW ward being then about 5 Miles from the shore and had 23 fathom Sandy bottom, at Midnight Tacked and stood to the East- ward. At Noon the land near the entrance of Strait Le Maire ENE distce 7 Leagues, Soundings from 28 to 38 fm. FRIDAY 13<1th. Winds NEBE, WSW, SW.>1s <1Bearings at Noon Cape St>1 <1Diego North>1 2 <1Leagues. Plying in Strait Le Maire.>1 The greatest part of this day little wind and clowdy, at 8 pm Cape St Diego at the west entrance of Strait Le Maire East distce about 5 Leagues, kept under an easy sail untill day light at which time we were abreast of Cape St Diego and then put into the Straights, but the tide soon turn'd against us and oblige'd us to haul under the Cape again and wait untill 9 am when it shifted in our favour. Putinto the Straits again with a moderate breeze at sw which soon grew boisterous, with very heavy squalls with rain & hail and oblig'd us to close reef our top-sails. [43 SATURDAY 14<1th. Winds SSW & SWBS.>1 First part Strong gales and very heavy Squalles with Hail and rain, the remainder more moder- ate but unsettled some times a fresh breeze and Squally and some times little wind. Kept Plying in the Straits untill 1/2 past 4 pm at which time the Tide had made Strong againest us and the wind not abating bore away intending to have hauld under Cape St Diego, but was prevented by the force of the tide which carried us past that Cape with surprising rappidity, at the same time caused a very great sea. At 6 the Weather being clear took Nine or three sets of observa- tions of the Sun and Moon in order to find the Longitude of the place, and as they perhaps are the first observations of this kind that were ever made so near to the extremity of South America I have inserted them belowjust as they were taken that every boddy may judge for themselves, Cape St Diego bore at this time sBE distant about 4 Leagues. At 1/2 past 7 Tacked and stud to the sE Cape St Diego bearing sBE distce 5 Leagues. At <11>1 am Squally, wore Ship, Staten land extending from North to East. At 4 Moderate weather loose'd a reef out of each topsail, the Cape of Good Success wBs and Cape St Diego NNw being now in the Strait, but the tide turning against us soon carried us out.s The Violence ofthe Tide of Ebb rais'd such a Sea off Cape St Diego that it looked as if it was breaking Voilently on a lidge of rocks and would be taken for such by any who knews not the true cause: when the Ship was in this torrent she frequently Pitched her bowsprit in the Water.s By noon we got under the land between Cape St Diego and Cape St Vincent where I thought to have Anchor'd, but found the bottom every where hard and rocky, the depth of water from 30 to 12 fathom. Set the Master to examine a small Cove which appeared to our View a little to the Eastward of Cape St Vincent. SUNDAY 15<1th.>1 Moderate breeze at South & SE and Clowdy weather the greatest part of this Day. At 2 pm the Master return'd with an account that there was Anchorage in 4 fathom water and a good bottom close to the Eastward of the first black bluf point which is on the East side of Cape St Vincent, at the very entrance of the Cove we saw from the Ship, (which I named <1Vincents Bay)>1 before this Anchoring ground lay several rocky Ledges cover'd with Sea Weed, 44] on these ledges I was informed was not less than 8 and 9 fathom, but in standing in with the Ship the first we came upon had only 4 fathom upon it. I therefore thought that Anchoring here would be attended with some risk, and that it would be better to endeavour to find some port in the Strait and there compleat our Wood and Water. However I sent a Boat with an officer a Shore to attend on Mr Banks and People who was very desireous of being aShore at any rate, while I kept plying as near the shore as possible with the Ship. At 9 they return'd on board bringing with them several Plants Flowers &ca most ofthem unknown in Europe and in that alone consisted their whole Value; they saw none of the Natives but met with several of their old Hutts. Hoisted the Boat in and made sail into the Strats, and at 3 am Anchor'd in 121/2 fathom water (the bottom Corral rock,) before a small Cove which we took for Port Maurice and near 1/2 a Mile from the Shore Cape St Diego saw and Cape Bartholomew (which is the s point of Staten land) EsE. Port Maurice appeared to afford so little Shelter for Shipping that I did not think it worth while to hoist a Boat out to Examine it. We saw here two of the Natives come down to the Shore who stay'd some time then retired into the woods again. At I0 oClock got under sail wind at sE and Plyed to Windward. MONDAY 16<1th.>1 A Fresh breeze of wind at South and sw with frequent Showers of Snow and rain. At 2 pm Anchor'd in the Bay of Success, 9 fathom the bottom owse and sand, the south point of the Bay bore sE and the North Point ENE. This Bay I shall describe when I come to speake of the rest of the coast. Hoisted out the Boats and Moor'd with the Stream Anchor, while this was doing I went a Shore accompany'd by Mr Banks and Dr Solander to look for a Watering place and to speak with the Natives who were assembled on the beach at the head of the Bay to the number of 30 or 40; they were so far from being afraid or surprised at our coming amongest them that three of them came on board without the least hesitation. They are something above the Middle size of a dark copper Colour with long black hair, they paint their bodies in Streakes mostly Red and Black, their cloathing consists wholy of a Guanacoess skin or that of a Seal, in the same form as it came from the Animals back, the Women wear a peice of skin over their privey partss but the Men observe no such decency. Their Hutts are made like a behive and open on one side where they have their fire, they are made of small Sticks and cover'd with [45 branches of trees, long grass &ca in such a manner that they are neither proff against wind, Hail, rain, or snow, a sufficient proff that these People must be a very hardy race; they live chiefly on shell fish such as Muscles which they gather from off the rocks along the sea- shore and this seems to be the work ofthe Women; their arms are Bows and Arrows neatly made, their arows are bearded some with glass and others with fine flint,s several pieces of the former we saw amongst them with other European things such as Rings, Buttons, Cloth, Canvas &ca which I think proves that they must sometimes travel to the Northward, as we know of no ship that hath been in those parts for many years, besides they were not at all surprised at our fire arms on the contrary seem'd to know the use of them by making signs to us to fire at Seals or Birds that might come in the way. They have no boats that we saw, or any thing to go upon the water with. Their number doth not exceed 50 or 60 young and old and there are fewer Women then Men. They are extreeamly fond of any Red thing and seemed to set more Value on Beeds than any thing we could give them: in this consists their whole pride, few either men or Women are without a necklace or string of Beeds made of small Shells or bones about their necks. They would not taste any strong Liquor, neither did they seem fond of our provisions.s We could not discover that they had any head or chief, or form of Goverment, neither have they any usefull or neccessary Utentials except it be a Bagg or Basket to gather their Muscels into: in a Word they are perhaps as miserable a set of People as are this day upon Earth. Having found a con- venient place on the s side of the Bay to wood and Water at, we set about that work in the morning, and Mr Banks with a party went into the Country to gather Plants &ca.s THURSDAYs 17<1th>1 Jans. Fresh gales at South, sw, and w, with rain and Snow and of course very cold weather, nothwithstanding we kept geting on board Wood and water, and finished the Survey of the 46] Bay.s Mr Banks and his party not returning this Evening as I expected gave me great uneasiness as they were not prepared for staying out the night, however about noon they returned in no very comfortable conditions and what was still worse two Blacks servants to Mr Banks had perished in the night with cold; great part of the day they landed was spent before they got through the woods, after which they advanced so far into the Country that they were so far from being able to return that night that it was with much difficulty they got to a place of tolerable shelter where they could make a fire. These two men being intrusted with great part of the Liquor that was for the whole party had made too free with it and stupified themselves to that degree that they either could or would not travel but laid them- selves down in a place where there was not the least thing to shelter them from the inclemency of the night. This was about a 1/4 of a mile from where the rest took up their quarters and notwithstanding their repeted endeavours they could not get them to move one step farther, and the bad traveling made it impossible for any one to carry them, so that they were oblig'd to leave them and the next morning they were both found dead.s WEDNESDAY 18<1th.>1 All the Middle and latter part of this Day itblew Very Strong from the ssw and sw attended with Snow, Hail and rain and brought such a Sea into the Bay, which ran the surf to Such a height that no Boat could land, the same Stormey weather and Surf continued alls THURSDAY 19<1th>1. All this time the Ship Road very easey with her Broad side to the swell.s The great surf that always will be upon the Shore when the wind blows hard from the Southward, makes [47 wooding and watering tidious, notwithstanding there are great p[l]enty of both close to high water mark.s FRIDAY 20<1th>1. Moderate gales and clowdy with frequent showers of rain all this day: this evening the Surf abated and at 2 am sent the People on shoar to Wood and water and cut broom, all of which we compleated this day. In this service we lost our small Kedge anchor, it having been laid off the watering place to ride the Long boat by, and the gale had brok away the Hawser and Buoy rope and perhaps buried the anchor in the sand for notwithstanding our utmost endeavour we were not able to hook it.s Took up the Stream Anchor and made ready for sailing. SATURDAY 21<1st>1. Winds from ssw to sw, Moderate breezes the first part, latter fresh gales with showers of rain; pm hoisted in the Boats and made ready for sailing ands 2 am weighed and made sail out of the Bay.s At 1/2 past 4 the Cape of Good Success bore w and Cape Bar- tholomew East, Variation pr Azth 24o9' East. At Noon the Cape of Good Success bore N 36o West distt 11 Leags. SUNDAY 22nd. Winds between the South and the West, first and latter parts fresh gales and squally with rain, the Middle little wind and rain. AM found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 25o. 4 East, unbent the Cables and stowed the Anchors. At Noon Latd Observed 56o7' and Longitude made from the Cape of Good Success 42' East. MONDAY 23<1rd>1. Winds Variable from sE round by the sw to Nw, first part a fresh breeze and squally, the remainder Moderate breezes and sometimes Calm and clear weather which is more then we have had for several days past. At 4 am saw the land in the sw quarter and a small Island bearing West. From this time untill 9 it was calm, at which time the Ship drove very fast to the NEBN at 9 sprung up a light breeze at North, loosed all the reefs out and set the Studdings sails, the Cape of Good Success bore NEBN, Staten land seen from the deck bearing NE, the Sugar Loafe on Terra del Fuego NNE (and is the 48] same Hill as is seen from the NE side of the land, it appears to stand but a little way inland from this Shore) and the mainland and Islands on the Coast extending from the Cape of Good Success to the sBw.s The Country is Mountainous of an indifferent height, the topss were cover'd with Snow, which had latly fell as it did not lay long. There appeared to be several Bays and inlets and Islands laying along the coast, the 3rd View in the Chart exhibets the appearences of this coast, where <1g>1 is new Island, <1c>1 the Sugr Loafe and <1h>1 the C. of Good Success. At Noon the West end of New Island bore NwBw 5 Leagues. Latd Observed 55o25' South. This Island I named <1New Island>1 because it is not laid down in any chart. TUESDAY 24<1th>1 Jansy. The fore and middle part of these 24 hours Moderate gales and clowdy with some showers of rain, the latter a fresh gale with flying showers: at 7 pm New Island bore NwBN and a small Island laying to the Westward of it bore wBN, Variation pr several Azimuths 21oo' East, which is much less than we have yet found it upon this coast yet I am satisfied with the goodness of the observations. At 1/2 past I am the wind shifted from ssw to EsE. Tacked and stood sw, at 6 saw the Land to the Westward makeing like several Islands. At 8 two small Islands laying off a low point of land bore wBs distt 3 Leagues and the small Island we saw last night bore NNw: this I take to be the Island of Evouts, it is about one League in circuit and of a moderate height and lies 4 League from the Main near the south point of it are some peeked Rocks pretty high above water. The wind coming to the South ward we did butjust weather this Island, in passing it sounded and had 4o fathom water sand and broken shells. At Noon it bore NE distt one League and the low point of land before mentioned s 17o West distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Tacked and Stood to the sE wind at ssw. From this low point the land trends to the Nw about 4 Leagues where it ends in a low point round which to the westward appears to be a deep Bay, unless this land should prove to be an Island or Islands which is most likely: it rises into high craggy Hills and the shore seems to form several Bays, if so they must afford good shelter for shipping against southerly and westerly winds. WEDNESDAY 25<1th>1 of Jansy. Winds from the South to the wNw, the first part fresh gales and squally with some rain, middle little wind with hail and rain, latter fresh gales and hazey with showers of rain. At 8 pm the Island of Evouts Nw distt 3 or 4 Miles. Variation pr morning Amplitude 21 o 16' East. At 8 am the Southermost low point of land seen yesterday boare s 74o wt and a remarkable Peeked Hill [49 to the southward of it sw and soon after we discoverd that the land which we took yesterday to be apart of the main or an Island, was three Islands which I take to be Hermites, at Noon the south point of the Southermost Island bore NwBw distt 3 Leagues, having then 55 fathom Peble stones; this point is pretty high and consists of Peeked craggy rocks and not far from it lay several others high above water; it lies in the Latitude of 55o53' South and sw 26 Leagues from Strait La Mair, and by some on board thought to be Cape Horn, but I was of another oppinions and with good reason because we saw land to the southward of it about 3 or 4 Leagues. It appeared not unlike an Island with a very high round hummock upon it: this I believe to be Cape Horn for after we had stood to the Southward about 3 Leagues the weather clear'd up for about a 1/4 of an hour, which gave us a sight of this land bearing then wsw but we could see no land either to the Southward or westward of it, and therefore conclude that it must be the Cape, but whether it be an Island of it self, a part of the Southermost of Hermites Islands or a part of Terra del Fuego I am not able to determine. However this is of very little concequence to Navigation, I only wished to have been certain whether or no it was the Southermost land on or near to Terra del Fuego, but the thick Foggy weather, and the westerly winds which carried us from the land prevented me from satisfying My curiosity in this point; but from its Latitude and the reasons before given I think it must, and if so it must be Cape Horn and lies in the Latitude of 55o59's South and Longitude 68o13' West from the Meridian of Greenwich, beeing the mean result of Several Observns of the Sun and Moon made the day after we left the land and which agree'd with those made at Straits Le Maire, allowing for the distance between one place and the other, which I found means very accuratly to determine.s As 50] we are now about takeing our departure from the land which we are not likely to fall in with again, I shall give a more full discription of such parts of the Coast of Terra de Fuego as have fallen under my inspection.s We fell in with this Coast 21 Leagues to the westward of Strait Le Maire and rainged the Coast from thence to the Strait within two or three Leagues of the land, and had soundings all the way from 4o to 20 fathom a gravelly and sandy bottom; the land near the Shore is in general low, but hilly, the face of the country appears green and Woody, but inland are craggy Mountains, they appeared to be of no very great height, nor were they cover'd with Snow. The most re- markable land on Terra del Fuego is a high mountain in form of a Sugar Loaf, situated not far from the Sea on the sw side of the land, and three hills call'd the three Brothers, they lay near the shore and s Miles to the Westward of Cape St Diego which is alow pointthat forms the Nw entrance of Strait Le Maire and are contigueous to each other, the Sugar Loaflies from these Hills ssw and when it was in this situation the appearence of the land is represented in the first View in the Chart, but it must be observed that from this Point of View the three brothers appear far more conspicuous than from any other: These land marks are by some Voyagers thought very necessary to know Strait Le Maire by, but whoever coasts Terra del Fuego with sight of land cannot possibly miss the Strait, it being of it self so very conspicuous, and Staten land which forms the East side is still more so from its very rugged appearences. One League and a half to the westward of Cape St Diego lies Cape St Vincent, between these two Capes lies Vincents Bay,s a small cove wherein is Wood and water and before which a Ship might Anchor with a southerly or sw wind, but the ground is none of the best unless you go into the very mouth of the Cove which is on the East side of the first Bluff point from Cape St Vencent, where there is anchorage in 4 fathom a sandy bottom. In going in keep clear of the Sea weed and first send a Boat a head to Sound. At best this is but a bad place for Shipping and only recom- mended to such as are in want of Wood and water, and have no oppertunity to put into the Strait, which in prudence ought not to be attempted but with a fair wind or moderate weather, and upon the very first of the Tide of Flood which happens here at the full and Change of the Moon about 1 or 2 oClock, and then to keep as near to Terra del Fuego Shore as the winds will permit: by useing these precautions you will be sure of either geting quite through the Strait [51 in one Tide or to the Southward of Success Bay, and it may be more prudent to put in there, should the wind be southerly than to attempt to weather Staten land with a Lee wind and Current, for I believe this to be the Cheif reason why Ships have run a risk of being drove on that Island. <1Strait Le Maire>1 is forme'd on the West by part of Terra del Fuego and on the East by the West end of Staten land or Island, its Length and breadth is about 5 Leagues each; about the middle of the Strait is Success Bay on Terra Del Fuego side, and about a 1/4 of a League more to the Northward is Port Maurice, a little Cove before which we anchor'd in 12 fathom. The Bay of Success is discover'd immidi- atly upon entering the Strait from the Northward, there is likewise a good land Mark near the South head to know it by, this is a mark on the land like a lane or broad road leading up from the sea into the Country: this Bay is 1/2 a League wide at the entrance and lies in West 21/2 Miles and hath good Anchorage in every part of it in Io, 8 and 7 fathom clear ground, and affords plenty of exceeding good wood and water. The wood is of the Birch kinds but of a different quallity to that in England or North America, here are likewise of the winter Bark trees and some few others, Wild Sellery,s some berries like Cranberries, but growing on bushes.s Very few wild Fowle of any sort, and no fish, except shell fish such as Muscles, Limpetss &ca and what we saw of the interior parts of the Country is still more barren of the necessarys of life then the Sea. The few days we stayed here we had constant bad weather, the winds from the sw and wsw with rain hail and snow; snow generally fell on the hills every where with these winds when live had rain in the Bay or upon the sea Coast. I observed the same with respect to Staten land; but as it never frose it did not lay long, yet it must render the Country cold and barren and unfit for cultivation. The Tides in Success Bay flowes at the full and change of the Moon, about 4 or 5 oClock and riseth between 5 and 6 feet 52] perpendicular, but in the Strait the flood runs two or three hours longer, and there the Ebb or Sourtherly current runs near double the strength of the Flood or Northerly current.s <1Staten Island>1 lies nearest East and West and from what I could see and judge of it may be about I2 Leagues in length and 5 in breadth, on the North side are the appearences of Bays or Harbours and the land is not distatute of wood and Verdure, nor cover'd with snow any more than Terra del Fuego. On the sw side of the Cape of good Success (which forms the sw entrances of Strait Le Maire and is known by some rocks off it) lies Valintines Bay, the entrance of which we only saw; from this Bay the land trends to the wsw for 2o or 3o Leagues, it appears high and Mountainous and forms several Bays and inlets; sw1/2s 14 Leagues from the Cape of Good Success, and 2 or 3 Leagues from the Shore lies New Island,it is 2 Leagues in length NE and sw, the NE end is terminated by a remarkable hillick. sw 7 Leagues from New Island lies the Isle Evouts, and South a little westerly from this Island lies Barnivelts, two small flat Island[s] close to each other, they are partly environed with rocks of different hieghts above water and lay SW 24 Leagues from Strait La Maire. From Barnivelts Islands to the SE point of Hermites Islands is SWBS distant 3 Leagues, these Islands lay SE and Nw and are pritty high, and will from most points of View be taken for one Island or a part of the main. From the SE point of Hermites Isles to Cape Horn the Course is swBs distance 3 Leagues. The appearence of this Cape and Hermites Islands is represented in the last View in the Chart which I have drawn of this Coast from our first making land unto Cape Horn in which is included Strait Le Maire and part of Staten land. In this Chart I have laid down no land nor figure'd out any shore but what I saw my self, and thus far the Chart may be depented upon, the Bays and inlets are left void the openings of which we only sees from the Ship; it cannot be doubted but what there is Anchorage Wood and water in those bays and it must have been in some of them that the Duch Squadron Com- manded by Hermites put into in the year 1624. It was the Vice Admiral Chapenham of this Squadron who first discover'd that the [53 land of Cape Horn consisted of a number of Islands, but the Account they have given of those parts is very short and imperfect and that of Schouton and Le Maire still worse, that it is no wonder that the Charts hitherto published should be found incorrect, not only in laying down the land but in the Latitude and Longitude of the places they contain; but I can now venter to assert that the Longitude of few parts of the World are better assertain'd than that of Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn being determined by several observations of the Sun and Moon, made both by my self and Mr Green the Astronomer. We found the Variation of the Compass on this Coast to be from 23o to 25o East, except near Barnivelts Islands and Cape Horn where we found it less and unsittled: it is likly that it is here disturbed by the land as the Duch Squadron before mentiond found in this Very place all their Compasses to differ from each other. The declination of the South point of the Dipping Needle when set up a Shore in Success Bay was [68o 15']s below the Horizon. Between Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn we found a Current Seting generally pretty Strong to the NE when we wass in with the Shore, but when 15 or 20 Leagues offwe wass not sencable of any. THURSDAY 26<1th. Winds SWBW to WNW. Courses S>1 15o <1W. Distce in>1 <1miles>1 63. <1Latd in South>1 56o57'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 68o13'. <1Bearings at Noon C. Horn North Distant>1 58 <1miles.>1 Fresh gales and thick hazey weather with small rain, at 2 pm the weather clearing up a little saw cape Horn bearing wsw Distant about 6 Leagues and from which I take my Departure, it[s] Latitude and Longitude have before been taken notice of. FRIDAY 27<1th. Winds SW, W & North. Courses S>1 8o <1W. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 32. <1Latd in South>1 57o2'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 68o27'. First part Moderate breezes and thick hazey weather, the Middle fair and Clowdy and the latter a fresh gale and with some rain. At 8 am took two sets of Observations of the Sun and Moon, the first gave 68o15', the 2nd 68o9', the mean of the two is 68o12' West. The Longitude of the Ship at Noon by these observations is 68o42'- 14', the Longitude made from Cape Horn is =68o28', the Longd of Cape Horn ac- cording to this Observation.s A great many large Albetrosses about the Ship.s 54] SATURDAY 28<1th. Winds North & WBN to NWBW. Courses S>1 39o <1W.>1 <1Distce sail'd in miles>1 8o. <1Latd in South>1 58o4'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 70o<11'.>1 Fresh gales the most part of this day, first and middle parts Clowdy, latter Clear with a sharp cold air. At 2 pm saw Land bearing North Distant about 8 Leagues, it made in 2 hummocks and ap- peared to be an Island, which I take to be the Isle of Diego Ramirez, it lays in the Latitude of 56o38' South and Longd 68o47' Wests from Greenwich: found the Variation this Evening to be 22o East. AM had 3 sets of Observation of the Sun and Moon which gave the Longitude 69o7'15" w. The Longd of the Ship at Noon by this Obsern is 69o24' - 1 o48', the Longd made from C. Horn, is = 67s36', the Longd of the Cape which is 52' less then the result of yesterdays ob- servations. This difference may arise part[l]y from the observations and partly from the Ships Run: the Mean of the two gives 68o2'+ 68o24', the Longitude of the Cape from the observations taken at Strait Le Maire 136o 26' 136.26----2 =68o 13' West from Greenwich,s the Longd of Cape Horn, being deduced from no less than 24 observa- tions, taken at no very great distance from the Cape and on both sides of it, and when the Sun was both to the East and West of the Moon, for in this case the errors ariseing from Observation are most likely to correct on a nother. SUNDAY 29<1th. Winds W, Northerly. Courses SW. Distce sail'd in miles>1 79. <1Latd in South>1 59oo'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 72o48'. First and latter part fresh gales and squally with flying showers of rain and Hail, the Middle Strong gales with heavy Squalls and showers of rain. At 8 pm took the 2nd reef in the topsails. At 6 am Close reef'd the Fore topsail and took in the Mizon topsail, and at 1o set it again and loosed the reef out of the fore topsail. MONDAY 30<1th. Winds WBN & WNW. Courses S>1 33o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 76. <1Latd in South>1 60o4'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 74o10'. Fore part fresh gales and squally with Hail and rain re- mainder Moderate and Clowdy: at 6 am Loosed the 2nd reef out the topsails and set topgt Sails. At 11 Longitude in per three sets of Observations of the @ & >. 1st set 73o38'15" 2nd 73o 45" and 3rd 73o19'30"; the mean of the whole is 73o27'50" w and 37' less then the [55 Longitude by dead reckoning which is only 6 Leages in this Latd and therefore not worth taking notice of. Latd pr Obsern 6oo4' s. TUESDAY 31<1st. Winds WNW, Calm, ESE, SSE. Courses N>1 71 o <1W.>1 <1Distce sail'd in miles>1 55. <1Latd in South>1 59o46'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 75o54'. First part Moderate and Clowdy with some rain, in the night little wind and Calm, towards noon fresh gales and Clowdy. Be- tween 7 and 8 pm being then in the Latd of 60'10' which was the fartherest south we was, and in the Longitude of 74o30', found the Variation of the compass by the mean of 18 Azimuths to be 27o9' East. At 3 am wind at EsE a Moderate breeze, set the S[t]udding sails, and soon after 2 birds like Penguins was seen by the mate of the watch.s [FEBRUARY 1769] WEDNESDAY 1<1st. Winds SEBE, SSE, E. Courses NWB W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 106. <1Latd in South>1 58o46'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 78o42'. Former part fresh gales, latter light airs and Clowdy. PM found the Variation by several Azimuth to be 24o53' East. At Noon soundd but had no ground with 24o fathom of line. Hoisted a small boat out to try if there was any current but found none. The weather was such as to admit Mr Banks to row round the Ship in a Lighter- mans skiffshooting birds. THURSDAY 2<1nd. Winds Varble, NNW, SW & S. Courses WBN. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 82. <1Latd in South>1 58o30'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 80o58'. First part light breeze and Clowdy, remainder sometimes a fresh breeze and at other times little wind and hazey rainy cold weather. PM took in the studding and a reef in each topsail. FRIDAY 3<1rd. Winds WBN to NWBW. Courses S>1 82o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 <1in miles>1 30. <1Latd in South>1 58o33'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 81o55'. Calm and light airs, and for the most part Clowdy and sometimes drizling rain. Variation 24o4' East. SATURDAY <14th. Winds Westerly. Courses N>1 13o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 48. <1Latd in South>1 57o45'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 82o16'. Fore and middle parts little wind and dark clowdy weather latter fresh gales and clowdy with some rain. PM had a boat out and shott several sorts of Birds, one of which was an Albetross as large as a Goose, whose wings when extended measured 1o feet 2 Inches, this was greys but there are of them all white except the very tip end of their 56] wing;s a nother sort in size between an Albestross and a large Gull, of a gray colour with a white spot above their tail about the bredth of ones hand,s and several other sorts.s SUNDAY 5<1th. Winds WSW, WBN & SWBW. Courses North. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 59. <1Latd in South>1 56o46'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 82o 16'. Fresh gales with heavy squalls the first part, remainder, little wind and clowdy and very cold weather. MoNDAY 6<1th. SWBW to WBS. Courses N1/4E. Distce sail'd in miles>1 86. <1Latd in South>1 55o20'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 82o23'. A Moderate breeze of wind with some flying showers of hail and rain. Close upon a wind all this day. TUESDAY 7<1th. West, NBW, WBS. Courses N20o W. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 46. <1Latd in South>1 54o40'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 82o54'. A fresh breeze and dark Clowdy weather with some showers of rain.s The wind Varying from the West to NBW obliged to tack several times. WEDNESDAY 8<1th. Winds Westerly, SBW. Courses N>1 14o45' <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 58. <1Latd in South>1 53o36'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 83o19'. First part Clowdy with Squalls of wind and Showers of rain & hail, latter part thick hazey weather with frequint showers. THURSDAY 9<1th. Winds Southerly. Courses N>155o <1W. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 130. <1Latd in South>1 52o22'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 86o17'. Fresh gales all this day, sometimes Squally with rain, under double reef'd Topsail in the night and single reef'd topsails in the Day. FRIDAY 10<1th. Winds Westerly. Courses N>122o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 67. <1Latd in South>1 51 o 16'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 86o37'. The former part of this day had fresh breezes and dark clowdy weather; in the night hard squalls with rain and afterwards hazey rainy weathr. SATURDAY 11<1th. Winds Varble, Southerly. Courses N>1 54o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 36. <1Latd in South>1 50o55'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 87o24'. The former part Light airs with drizzling rain, remainder a Moderate breeze and clowdys. SUNDAY 12<1th. Winds SW & S. Courses N>1 48o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 113. <1Latd in South>1 49o41'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 89o36'. First and Middle part fresh gales and clowdy latter little wind clear. Having for some time past generally found the Ship by obsern to the North- ward of the Logg, which is not owing to a current as I at first im- magined but to a wrong division of the Log Line being 21/2 feet in each knot; but this is now rectified.s MONDAY 13<1th. Winds West Norly. Courses N>1 75o <1W. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 35. <1Latd in South>1 49o32'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 90o37'. The first part of these 24 hours Moderate breezes and clowdy, the re- mainder fresh gales and clowdy. PM Saw a great many Albetrosses and other Birds about the Ship, some were all white and about the Size of Teal.s Took several observations of the Sun and Moon, the result of which gave 90o13' West Longitude from Greenwich.s The Variation of the Compass by the Mean of Several Azth 17o East. The Longitude by account is less then that by Obsern 37' which is about 20 Miles in these high latitudes, and nearly equall to the Error of the Logg Line before mentioned: this near agreement of the two Longi- tudes proves to a demonstration that we have had no Western current sence we left land. From the foregoing observations it will appear that we are now advanced about 12o to the westward of the Strait of Magellan and 58] 31/2o to the northward of it, having been 33 days in doubbling Cape Horn or the land of Terra del Fuego, and arriving into the degree of Latitude and Longitude we are now in without evers being brought once under our close reefe'd Topsails since we left strait la Maire, a cir- cumstance that perhaps never happen'd before to any Ship in those seas so much dreaded for hard gales of wind, insomuch that the doubling of Cape Horn is thought by some to be a mighty thing and others to this Day prefer the Straits of Magellan.s As I have never been in those Straits, can only form my judgement on a carefull comparrison of the different Ships Journals that have pass'd them and those that have sail'd round Cape Horn, particularly the Dolphins two last Voyagess and this of ours being made at the same Season of the Year when one may reasonably expect the Same winds to prevail. The Dolphin in her last Voyage was 3 Months in geting through the Straits not reckoning the time she lay in Port Famine, and I am firmly perswaded from the winds that we have had, that had we come by that passage we should not yet have been in these Seas; beside the fatiguing of our peoples the Damage we must have done to our Anchors Cables Sails and Rigging none of which have suffered in our passage round Cape Horn. From what I have said it will appear that I am no advocate for the Straits of Magellan, but it may be expected that I should say some thing of Strait le Maire through which we pass'd, and this is the more incumbant on me as it was by choise and contrary to the advice given by Mr Walter the ingenious Author of Lord Ansons Voyages who adveiseth all Ships not to go through this Strait but to go to the Eastward of Staten land, and likewise to Stand to the Southward as far as 61o or 62o South before any endeavour is made to get to the westward; with respect to the passing of Strait Le Maire or going round Staten land I look upon of little concequence and either one [59 or the other to be pursue'd according to circumstances: for if you happen to fall in with the land to the westward of the Strait and the winds favourable for going through it certainly must be a peice of folly to loose time in going round Staten land, for by paying a little attention to the directions I have already given no ill concequences can attend; but, on the contrary if you should fall in with the land to the eastward of the Strait or the wind should prove boisterous, or unfavourable, in any of these cases the going to the Eastward of Staten land is the most adviseable. And next, as to the runing into the Latitude of 61o or 62o South before any endeavour is made to get to the westward, is what I think no man will ever do that can avoide it, for it cannot be suppose'd that any one will Stear South mearly to get into a high Latitude when at the same time he can Steer west, for it is not Southing but Westing thats wanting, but this way you cannot steer because the winds blow almost constantly from that quarter, so that you have no other choise but to stand to the South- ward close upon a wind,s and by keeping upon that Tack you not only make southing but westing also and sometimes not a little when the wind Varies to the northward of west, and the farther you ad- vance to the Southrd the better chance you have of having the winds from that quarter or easterly and likewise of meeting with finer weather, both of which we ourselves experence'd. Prudence will direct every man when in these high Latitudes to make sure of Sufficient westing to double all the lands before he thinks of Standing to the Northward. When the winds was westerly the mountains on Terra del Fuego were generally cover'd with dense clowds, formed as one may reasonably suppose by waterys exhalations and by Vapours brought thither by the westerly winds, for from that quarter came frequent showers of Rain Hail and Snow, and after we had left the land and were standing to the Southward with the winds westerly dark dense clowds were continuely forming in the horizon and rose to about 45o where they began to disspate, these was generally attended with showers of rain or hail and SqIs of wind; but as we advanced to the southward these clowds became less dence, and in ye Latd 60o10' where we got the winds Easterly the weather was more serene and milder, again as we advanced to the northward we had a constant clowded sky & dark gloomy weather, ye whole time exceedg cold. 60] TUESDAY 14<1th. Winds Westerly & South. Course SW. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 32. <1Latd in South>1 49o6'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 91o12'. The first part fresh gales and hazey with rain, the remainder Moderate and clowdy with frequent rain. WEDNESDAY 15<1th. Winds SSW, SW, WBN. Course N>1 46o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 56. <1Latd in South>1 48o27'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 92o5'. Little wind and Clowdy the most part of this Day. Variation per Azimuth in the Evening 12o East and in the Morning both by an Amplitud and an Azth 11o East. AM Shifted the Mn sail and Mizon and Fore and Main topsail. THURSDAY 16<1th. Winds NW, West, and South. Course N>1 74o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 97. <1Latd in South>1 48o0'. <1Longd in West of Greenwict>1 94o25'. The first part of this day had fresh gales and clowdy, in the night thick hazey weather with heavy squalls of wind and rain, which obliged us to close reef our topsails; in the Morning and all the fore noon had Strong gales and clowdy weather and very heavy seas from the SSW, one of which brok upon the quarter and carried away the driver boom.s FRIDAY 17<1th. Winds SSW. Course NWB W1/2W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 132. <1Latd in South>1 46o48'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 97o17'. Strong gales and clowdy the most part of this Day, split the Main Topsail, unbent it and brought another to the Yard. SATURDAY 18<1th. Winds SWBW. Course N>1 32o30' <1W. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 140. <1Latd in South>1 44o50'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 99o7'. Fresh gales all this day, the weather Variable, some times fair and clowdy, other times hazey with drizling rain. Saw some birds nearly as big as Albitrosses they were all black with yellow Beaks.s SUNDAY 19<1th. Winds SWBW to WBS. Courses NNW3/4 W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 103. <1Latd in South>1 43o21'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 100o21'. First part fresh gales and hazey, the Middle part hazey with drizling rain, the latter gentle breezes and fine clear weather yet the air is still cold.s [61 MONDAY 20<1th. Winds Westerly. Courses S>1 65o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 58. <1Latd in South>1 43o46'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich 101>1 o34'. Moderate breezes and fine weather the greatest part of this Day and Very smooth. Found by repeted trials that the South point of the deping Needle dep'd 65o52' below the horizon. TUESDAY 21<1st. Winds NW. Courses S>1 62o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 115. <1Latd in South>1 44o39'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 103o54'. Fresh breezes and pretty clear weather. Variation 6o30' East. WEDNESDAY 22<1nd. NWerly. Courses S>1 86o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 91. <1Latd in South>1 44o46'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 106o1'. Hazey rainy weather the most part of this Day. THURSDAY 23<1rd. Winds NW, Calm. Courses N>1 30o <1E. Distce sail'd in>1 <1Files>1 13. <1Latd in South>1 44o35'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 105o52'. Little wind and Calm, and some Lightning a thing we have not seen for some time passt and therefore suppose not common in these Seas in high Latitudes. Variation 5o34' East. FRIDAY 24<1th. Calm, ENE, & ESE. Courses N>1 42o45' <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 79. <1Latd in South>1 43o37'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 107o6'. First part Calm, Middle light breezes, latter fresh breeze and hazey; pm had several azimuths all of which gave the Variation less than 4o East, but they were a little doubtfull on account of the rowling of the Ship; what winds we have had this Day hath been from the Eastward and are the first we have had from that quarter sence we left the Latd 58o46'.s SATURDAY 25<1th. Winds SEBE, SSE. Courses N>1 48o30' <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 112. <1Latd in South>1 42o 23'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 109o0'. The first and middle parts fresh gales and clowdy with some rain' the latter little wind and Clowdy. SUNDAY 26<1th. Winds Calm, NW to WSW. Courses N>1 26o15' <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 88. <1Latd in South>1 41o4'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 109o52'. First part Calm and light airs, the remainder very strong gales and Squally with Showers of rain which at length brought us under our two courses and close reef'd Main topsail.s MONDAY 27<1th. Winds Westerly. Courses N>1 18o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 85. <1Latd in South>1 39o43'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 110o26'. First part 62] Strong gales and clowdy, the remainder gentle breezes and clear weather. PM set the topsail one reef out, a large swell from the sw. TUESDAY 28<1th. Winds West to NW. Courses N>1 13o <1W. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 42. <1Latd in South>1 39o33'3o". <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 110o38'. The former part Little wind and fine clear weather, the air full as warm as in the same degree of North Latitude at the correspondent season of the year: the sw swell still keeps up notwithstand the gale hath been over about thirty hours, a proof that there is no land near in that quarter. The remainder part of this Day fresh breezes and clear: at 9 am took three sets of Observations of the Sun and Moon in order to find the Longitude of the Ship. [MARcH 1769] WEDNESDAY 1<1st. Winds WBS, NW. Courses N>1 76o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 <1in miles>1 52. <1Latd in South>1 38o44'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 111o43' <1Bearings at Noon C. Horn>1 60o <1E Distce>1 660 <1Leagues.>1 First part fresh breeze the remainder moderate breezes and clear weather.s The result of the forementioned Observations gives 110o33' w. Longitude from Greenwich and exactly agrees with the Longitude given by the Log, from Cape Horn: this agreement of the two Longitudes after a Run of 660 Leagues is surpriseing and much more then could be expected, but as it is so, it serves to prove as well as the repeted trials we have made when the weather would permit, that we have had no Current that hath affected the Ship Since we came into these Seas, this must be a great sign that we have been near no land of any extent because near land are generally found Currents: it is well known that on the East side ofthe Continent in the North sea we meet with Currents above 100 Leagues from the Land, and even in the Middle of the Atlantic Ocean between Africa and America are always found Currents, and I can see no reason why currents should not be found in this Sea Supposing a Continent or lands lay not far west frorn us as some have immagine'd, and if such land was ever seen we cannot be far from it, as we are now 56o Leagues West of the Coast of Chili.s [63 THURSDAY 2<1nd. Winds Westerly. Courses NB W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 87. <1Latd in South>1 37o19'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 112o5'. Former part fresh gales and hazey with much rain, the remainder a Strong fresh gale and pretty clear weather. FRIDAY 3<1rd. Winds West, Calm. Courses N>1 17o <1E. Distce sail'd in miles>1 31. <1Latd in South>1 36o49'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 111o54'. First part Moderate breezes, the remainder Calm and clear wr. AM Employ'd filling salt water in the fore hold and airing all the spare sails.s SATURDAY 4<1th. Winds Calm, NE, North. Courses N>1 50o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 58. <1Latd in South>1 36o12'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 112o50'. First part Calm, remainder a fine gentle breeze and clear weather. Variation per Azimuth and Ampd this Evening 2o26' East. The sw swell still keep up not withstanding it hath been Calm 24 hours. SUNDAY 5<1th. Winds NWBN & NW. Courses S>1 81o40' <1West. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 64. <1Latd in South>1 36o21'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 114o9' First and latter parts fine clear weather, the Middle fresh gales and hazey with rain.s MONDAY 6<1th. Winds NWBN>1 to <1WNW. Courses S>1 57o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 20. <1Latd in South>1 36o32'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 114o30'. Moderate breezes and tolerable clear weather all this day, the wind a little Variable which cause'd us to tack several times. TUESDAY 7<1th. Winds NW. Courses S>1 64o15' <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 83. <1Latd in South>1 37o8'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich 116>1o8'. A Moderate Steady breeze and clear weather. WEDNESDAY 8<1th. Winds NW, Varble. Courses S>1 78o <1W. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 76. <1Latd in South>1 37o24'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 117o41'. The first and middle parts Moderate breezes and Clowdy, the latter Variable winds and much raI-n. THURSDAY 9<1th. Winds SWB W to SBE. Courses N>1 38o [ W]. <1Distce sail'd>1 <1in miles>1 123. <1Latd in South>1 35o47'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 119o18'. First part Moderate and hazey with drizling rain, the remainder Fresh breeze & Clear weather. Variation 4o41' East. 64] FRIDAY 10<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 40o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 121. <1Latd in South>1 34o14'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 120o54'. Moderate breezes and fine pleasent weather.s SATURDAY 11<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 46o15' <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 116. <1Latd in South>1 32o54'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 122o35'. A Steady gale and fine weather. Variation 4 I2 E s SUNDAY 12<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 49o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 122. <1Latd in South>1 31o34'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 124o25'. Do Weather- Variation 4o12' East, put the Ships Compney to three watches they having been at watch and watch since our first arriaval upon the Coast of Terra del Fuego.s MONDAY 13<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 48o15' <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 72- <1Latd in South>1 30o46'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 125o28'. First part a Steady fresh gale, the remainder little wind and fine clear weather. TUESDAY 14<1th. Winds South, ESE, ENE. Courses N>1 50o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 47. <1Latd in South>1 30o 17'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 126o10'. Little wind and fine pleasant weather; at 3 pm took several Observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean result of which gave 126o20'45" the Longitude of the Ship west of Greenwich, and is 47' of Longitude west of Account carried on from Cape Horn.s [65 WEDNESAY 15<1th. Winds ENE & ESE. Courses N>1 47o15' <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 50. <1Latd in South>1 29o43'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 126o53'. Light breeze and clear weather. Variation pm 3o45' East, Do am 3o22' E. Saw a Tropic Bird.s THURSDAY 16<1th. Winds ESE, SSE, SW. Courses NNW. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 34. <1Latd in South>1 29o22'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 127o8'. Light airs next to a Calm and clear weather. PM Variation by the mean result of 21 Azimuths 1o30' E. This evening Observed an Occultation of h by the >. Immersion at h ' " and Emersion at h ' ". AM Vari. pr several Azimuths 2o0' E. FRIDAY 17<1th. Winds SEBS. Courses N>1 20o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 55. <1Latd in South>1 28o30'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 127o29'. Little wind and fine pleasent weather. Variation pm 3o27' E. SATURDAY 18<1th. Winds NE, North. Courses N>1 60o45' <1W. Distce sail'd>1 <1in miles>1 78. <1Latd in South>1 27o52'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 128o44'. First part little wind and Clowdy: latter fresh gales and hard Squalls with much rain, two reefs in the top sails. SUNDAY 19<1th. Winds Between the N & West. Courses N>1 52o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail d in miles>1 50. <1Latd in South>1 27o21'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 129o28'. First part fresh gales and Squally with rain, remainder More Moderate & Clowdy. Variation AM pr Mean of several Azimuths 3oI4' E. Loosed the 2nd reef out of the topsails. MONDAY 20<1th. Winds West. Courses North. Distce sail'd in miles>1 95. <1Latd in South>1 25o44'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 129o28'. A fine breeze and pleasent weather. Saw several Tropic Birds. TUESDAY 21<1st. Winds WBN, Calm. Courses North. Distce sail'd in miles>1 23. <1Latd in South>1 25o21'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 129o28'. First part little wind the remainder Calm. Variation 3o43' E. Saw some rock weed and a great many Tropic Birds. WEDNESDAY 22<1nd. Winds NBE to NNW. Courses West. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 57. <1Latd in South>1 25o21'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 129o52'. First part Calm in the night squally with rain, AM A fresh breeze and Clowdy. Varn pr Amplitude 3o Io' East. Saw some Egg Birds.s 66] THURSDAY 23<1rd. Winds NBW to WBN. Courses N>1 13o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 49. <1Latd in South>1 24o 43'. <1Longd in West Greenwich>1 130o8'. Fresh gales and squally with rain the first part, the remainder fresh gales and clowdy. PM Saw some men of war Birdss and Egg Birds and in the Morning saw more Egg Birds and Tropic Birds. The Man of War and Tropic Birds are pretty well known but the Egg Bird (as it is call'd in the Dolphins journals) require some description to know it by that name. It is a small slender Bird of the Gull kind and all white,s and not much unlike the small white Gulls we have in England, only not so big; there are also Birds in Newfoundland call'd Stearings that are of the same shape and Bigness only they are of a Greyish Colour. These Birds were call'd by the Dolphin Egg Birds on account of their being like those known by that name by Salors in the Gulph of Florida. Neither they nor the Men of War Birds are ever reckoned to go very far from land. FRIDAY 24<1th. Winds WNW to NW. Courses NWBN>11/4<1E. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 99. <1Latd in South>1 23o23'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 129o2'. Fresh gales and Clowdy, with some rain in the fore part of this day. All the Fore part of these 24 hours the Sea was Smooth but at 12 at night it was more so, and about 3 in the Morning one of the People saw or thought he saw a Log of wood pass the Ship; this made us think we were near some land, but at Day light we saw not the least appear- ences of any and I did not think my self at liberty to spend time in searching for what I was not sure to find,s altho I thought my self [67 not far from those Islands discover'd by Quiros in 16o6 and very probable we were not, from the Birds &ca we have seen for these 2 or 3 days past. SATURDAY 25<1th. Winds NWBN to WBN. Courses NE>11/2<1N. Distce sail'd>1 <1in miles>1 95. <1Latd in South>1 22o<111'. Longd in West of Greenwich>1 127o55'. First part Dark Clowdy weather with rain and a fresh breeze ofwind, the remainder fair and Clowdy.s SUNDAY 26<1th. Winds NW to W. Longd in West of Greenwich>1 127o43'. Squally weather with rain. A 5 pm Saw some Sea Weed pass the Ship, and at 7 Wm Greenslade Marine either by Accident or design went over board and was drownded; the following circumstances makes it appear as tho it was done designedly, he had been Centinal at the Stearage door between 12 and 4 oClock where he had taken part of a Seal Skin put under his charge which was found upon him, the other Marines thought themselves hurt by one of their party commiting a crime of this Nature,s and he being a raw young fellow, and as very probable made him resolve upon commiting this rash action; for the Sergant, not being willing that it should pass over unknown to me, was about 7 oClock going to bring him aft to have it inqured into when he gave him the Slip between decks and was seen go upon the Fore Castle, and from that time was seen no more. I was niether made acquainted with the Theft or the circumstances attending it untill the Man was gone. MONDAY 27<1th. Winds Varble. Courses N>11/4<1E>1. Distce sail'd in miles 30. <1Latd in South>1 21 o2'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 127o38'. Variable winds and Weather with frequent showers of rain.s At Noon saw a Bird like a Gannet.s TUESDAY 28<1th. Winds West to SSW. Courses NNW. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 37. <1Latd in South>1 2oo28'. <1Logd in West of Greenwich>1 127o50'. Little wind and Clowdy. Variation per Ampd 3o56' East. WEDNESDAY 29<1th. Winds Easterly. Courses N>1 75 <1W. Distce sail'd>1 <1in miles>1 55. <1Latd in South>1 20o14'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 128o45'. 68] Little wind and clowdy weather. Variation pr Az. 2o27' E. Saw a Bird like a Doves and several fish about the Ship. Empd wormings the best bower Cable, repairing and painting the Boats. THURSDAY 30<1th. Winds Calm, Varble, SSE. Courses N>1 40o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 53. <1Latd in South>1 19o34'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 129o27'. First part Calm and close Clowdy weather, in the night had variable winds and weather with rain. AM Gentle breezes and Clowdy wear. Between 10 and 11 AM took several Obsern of the Sun and Moon, the mean result of them gave the Longitude of the Ship at Noon to be 127o38' and is 1o49' E of the Longitude given by the Log, but on the 14th Inst. the Ship by Observation was 47' West of the Log, therefore she must have lost 2o36' of the Log since the last Observations. An error too great to lie accounted for. FRIDAY 31<1st. Winds South. Courses N>1 75o45' <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 111. <1Latd in South>1 19o7'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 131o21'. A Steady breeze and fine pleasent weather. AM took several Observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean result of them came within 8 Miles of yesterdays Obserns computed both by Mr Green and my self, and yet I cannot think so great an error can have been commited in the Ships run in so short a time as these observations seem to point out and therefore I shall abide by the Longitude given by the Log, unless from subcequent Observations this error should be found to bejust.s [APRIL 1769] SATURDAY 1<1st. Winds SE to E>11/2<1N. Courses West. Distce sail'd in miles>1 122. <1Latd in South>1 19o7'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 133o28'. A Steady fresh Trade and fine weather. Variation per Several Azimuth 2o32' East. SUNDAY 2<1nd. Winds East. Courses N>1 861/2s <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 118. <1Latd in South>1 19o0'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 135o33'. A fresh trade wind and fine pleasent weather. At Noon saw a large flock of Birds, they had brown backs and white bellies, they fly and make a noise like Stearings and are shaped like them only some thing larger.s [69 Saw likewise some black sheer waterss and several Men of War Birds.s MONDAY 3<1rd. Winds East. Courses N>1 82o45' <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 110. <1Latd in South>1 18o46'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 137o29'. First and latter part a Steady fresh breeze and clowdy, the Middle sometimes Squally with rain at other times little wind. PM saw two Birds like Albatrosses, they were all white except the Tip of their wings and tails.s TUESDAY 4<1th. Winds E, EBS. Courses N>1 88o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 114. <1Latd in South>1 18o42'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 139o29'. A Steady fresh Trade and clear weather. At 1/2 past Io AM saw lands bearing South distant 3 or 4 Leagues; hauld up for it and soon found it to be an Island of about 2 Leagues in circuit and of an Oval form with a Lagoon in the Middle for which I named it <1Lagoon>1 <1Island.>1s The border of land circumscribing this Lagoon is in many places very low and narrow particularly on the South side where it is mostly a beach or Reef of Rocks, it is the same on the Norths in three places and these disjoins the firm land and makes it appear like so many Islands cover'd with Wood. On the west end of the Island is a large tree which we took for a trees that looks like a Large Tower--and about the Middle of the Island are two Cocoa- nut trees that appear above all the other wood, which as we approche'd the Island look'd very much like a flag.s We approach'd the north side of this Island within a Mile and found no bottom with a 130 fathom of line nor did there appear to be any Anchorage about it. We saw several of the Inhabitants, the Most of them Men and 70] these March'd along the shore abreast of the Ship with long clubs in their hands as tho they ment to oppose our landing, they were all naked except their privy parts and were of a dark Coper colour with long black hair, but upon our leaving the Island some of them were seen to put on a covering and one or two we saw in the skirts of the Wood was cloathd in white, these we supposed to be Women. This Island lies in the Latitude of 18o47' and Longd 139o28' West from the Meridian of Greenwich. Variation 2o54' East. WEDNESDAY 5<1th. Winds Et. Courses N>1 77o30' <1West. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 79. <1Latd in South>1 18o25'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 140o51'. A fresh steady gale and fine weather. At 1 pm made sail to the west- ward and at half past 3 saw land to the Nw which we got up with at sun set, it prov'd to be a low woody Island of a circular form and not much above a Mile in Compass.s This Island I call'd <1Thrum Cap,>1 it lies in the Latitude of 18o35' s and in the Longitude of 139o48' West from Greenwich, and North 62o West 7 Leagues from Lagoon Island. We saw no Inhabitants nor the appearence of any and yet we were within half a Mile of the Shore.s I observed by the shore that it was near Low-water, and at Lagoon Island I observed that it was either High-water or else there was no Ebing and flowing of the sea --from these circumstances I infer that a sBE or South Moon makes High-water. Here we caught a King Fishs being the first fish we have got in those Seas. THURSDAY 6<1th. Winds East. Courses N>1 85 <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 94. <1Latd in South>1 18o 19'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 142o29'. A fresh Trade and fine pleasent Weather. At 3 pm saw land to the westward which prov'd to be an Island of about 12 or 15 Leagues in Compass, is very low and intirely d[r]own'd in the Middle forming there a Large Lake into which their appear'd to be no inlet; the border of land and Reef surrounding this Lake like a wall appear'd to be of a [71 Bow-like figure, for which reason I named it <1Bow Island,>1s the South side a long which we saild was one continued low narrow beach, or Reef like a causeway for 4 Leagues and upwards and lies EBN and wBs. The East and west ends and North side of this Island are wooded in Groves, and the firm land appear'd disjoind and like a number of Islands and very probably is so. The North-west parts of the Island we only saw a Cross the Lake and not very distinct on account of its great extent, and night coming on before we had run the whole length of the Island, this discription must be imperfect and the whole Island may form a different figure to what I have here described. The East End lies in the Latitude of 18o23' South and Longitude 141o 12' West from Greenwich. Variation 5o38' East. This Island is Inhabited, we not only saw smook in different parts but people also. At Noon Saw Land to the westward. FRIDAY 7<1th. Winds East. Courses N>1 66o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 66. <1Latd in South>1 17o48'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 143o31'. Fresh gales and Clowdy. At 1/2 past 2 pm got up with the East end of the land seen yesterday at Noon, and which prov'd to be an Assemblage of Islands join'd together by Reefs, and extending themselves NWBN & SEBS in length 8 or 9 Leagues and of various breadths, but there appeard to be a total seperation in the Mid[dl]e by a Channell of half a Mile broad, and on this account they are called the <1Two>1 <1Groups.>1s The SEermost of them lies in the Latitude 18o12' and Longi- tude of 142o42' west from Greenwich and w1/2N distant 25 Leagues from the west end of Bow Island. We ranged along the sw side of these Islands and hauld into a Bay which lies to the Nw of the Southermost point ofthem, and where there appear'd to be anchorage and the Sea was smooth and not much surf on the shore, but we found no ground with 1oo fathoms 1/4 of a Mile from the Shore and nearer we did not go. Here several of the Inhabitants assembled together with their Canoes with a design as we thought to come off to us as they hauld one of them over the reef seemingly for that pur- pose, but after waiting near half an hour and they not attempting to come off we bore away and made sail, and presently a Canoe put 72] off after us, but as we did not stop they soon went back again. They were in all respects like those we had seen on Lagoon Island and arm'd with clubs and Long pikes like them. At 1/2 past 6 AM, saw a small Island to the northward, hauld our wind for it and soon got close in with it. It is about 3 or 4 Miles in circuit and very low with a pond in the middle, there is some wood upon it but no Inhabitants but birds and for this reason is call'd <1Bird>1 <1Island.>1s It lies in the Lat. 17o48' and Longd 143o35' w and W1/2N 10 Leagu[e]s from the West end of the two Groups; the Birds we saw were Men of war Birds and several other sorts. SATURDAY 8<1th. Winds EBS & East. Courses N>1 87o <1Wt. Distce sail'd in>1 <1miles>1 100. <1Latd in South>1 17o43'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 145o16'. Fresh Trade and pleasent weather, but about noon had a few flying showers of rain. V arn 6o32' East. SUNDAY 9<1th. Winds EBN to NBE. Courses West, Northerly. Distce sail'd>1 <1in miles>1 81. <1Latd in South>1 17o42'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 146o40'. A Steady fresh gale and pleasent weather. At 2 pm Saw Land to the northward, haul'd up for it and found it to be a double range of low woody Islands join'd together by reefs by which means they make one Island in form of an Ellipsis or Oval, in the Middle of which is a Salt water lake; the small Islands and reefs circumscribe or bound this lake like a Chain it is therefore call'd <1Chain Island,>1s it is in length Nw & sE about 5 Leagues and in breadth about 5 Miles. The middle of it lies in the Latitude of 17o23' s and Longitude 145o54' West, and WBN 45 Leagues from Bird Island Variation per Several Azthg 42o54' E. MONDAY 10<1th. Winds NNW, Varble, NWBN. Courses S>1 13o <1W. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 67. <1Latd in South>1 18o. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 147o47'. <1Bearings at Noon Osnaburg Island NB W>11/2[ W] <1Distt>1 5 <1Leagues.>1 PM Moderate breezes and clowdy, in the Night Dark clowdy unsettled weather with very much Thunder Lightning and rain. AM Little wind and fair. PM Varia. per Serveral Azth 5o41' E. At 8 AM saw Osnaburg Island,s (so call'd by Capt Wallis the first discovrer) bearing NWBW Distant 4 or 5 Leagues. It is a high round Island and appears not to be above a League in circuit, and when it bears as above it looks like [73 a high crown'd Hatt, but when it bears north the Top is more like the roof of a House. It lies in the Latd of 17o48' South and Longd 148o 10' West, and wBs 44 Leagues from Chain Island. TUESDAY 11<1th. Winds Varble. Courses N>1 66o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 54. <1Latd in South>1 17o38'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 148o39'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon Osnaburg Island>1 E1/2S <1Distce>1 I3 <1Leagues.>1 First part little wind and clowdy, the remainder Little wind and very Variable unsettled weather with some rain. PM Took several Observations of the Sun and Moon which gave the Longd of the Ship to be 148o18' w and differs but little from that given by the Log. At 6 AM Saw <1king Georges Island>1 extending from WBS1/2S to WBN1/2N it appear'd very high and Moun- tainous.s WEDNESDAY 12<1th. Winds Do. Courses West. Distce sail'd in miles>1 18. <1Latd in South>1 17o38'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 148o58'. <1Bearings at>1 <1Noon king Georges Island from South to WBN Distce>1 5 <1Leagues.>1 Variable light airs all these 24 hours and hot sultry weather. At 5 PM King Georges Island extending from NWBW to sw Distant 6 or 7 Leagues, and at 6 AM it bore from ssw to WBN. Being little wind and calm several of the Natives came offto us in their Canoes, but more to look at us then any thing else we could not prevail with any ofthem to come on board and some would not come near the Ship.s THURsDAY 13<1th. Winds Easterly. At Anchor in Royl Bay Georges Island.>1s The first part Clowdy and Squally with Showers of rain the re- mainder Gentle Breezes and clear weather. At 4 pm the NE Point of Royal Bay W1/2N. Run under an easy Sail all night and had soundings from 22 to 12fm 2 or 3 Miles from the Shore. At 5 AM Made Sailfor the Bay and at 7 Anchor'd in 13 fathom.s 74] At this time we had but a very few men upon the Sick list and these had but slite complaints, the Ships compney had in general been very healthy owing in a great measure to the Sour krout, Portable Soup and Malt; the two first were serve'd to the People, the one on Beef Days and the other on Banyan Days,s Wort was made of the Malt and at the discrition of the Surgeon given to every man that had the least symptoms of Scurvy upon him, by this Means and the care and Vigilance of Mr Munkhous the Surgeon this disease was prevented from geting a footing in the Ship. The Sour Krout the Men at first would not eate untill I put in pratice a Method I never once knew to fail with seamen, and this was to have some of it dress'd every Day for the Cabbin Table, and permitted all the Officers without exception to make use of it and left it to the option of the Men either to take as much as they pleased or none atall; but this pratice was not continued above a week before I found it necessary to put every one on board to an Allowance, for such are the Tempers and disposissions of Seamen in general that whatever you give them out of the Common way, altho it be ever so much for their good yet it will not go down with them and you will hear nothing but mur- murings gainest the man that first invented it; but the Moment they see their Superiors set a Value upon it, it becomes the finest stuff in the World and the inventer an honest fellow.s Remarkable Occurrences at Georges Island <1Note.>1 The way of reckoning the Day in Sea journals is from Noon to Noon, but as the Most material transactions at this Island must happen in the Day time this method will be attended with ilcon- veniences in inserting the transactions of each Day; for this reason I shall during our stay at this Island but no longer reckon the day according to the civil account, that is to begin and end at midnight. [75 We had no sooner come to an Anchor in Royal gay as before Mentioned than a great number of the natives in their Canoes came off to the Ship and brought with them Cocoa-nuts &ca and these they seem'd to set a great Value upon. Amongest those that came off to the Ship was an elderly Man whose name is <1Owhaa,>1s him the Gentlemen that had been here before in the Dolphins knew and had often spoke of him as one that had been of service to them, this man (together with some others) I took on board, and made much of him thinking that he might on some occasion be of use to us. As our stay at this place was not likly to be very Short, I thought it very necessary that some order Should be Observed in Trafficing with the Natives: that such Merchantdize as we had on board for that purpose might continue to bear a proper value, and not leave it to every ones own particular fancy which could not fail to bring on confution and quarels between us and the Natives, and would infallible lesen the Value of such Articles as we had to Traffic with: in order to prevent this the following Rules were orderd to be observed, viz. <1RULES to be observe'd by every Person in or belonging to His Majestys Bark>1 <1the Endevour, for the better establishing a regular and uniform Trade for>1 <1Provisions &ca with the Inhabitants of Georges Island.>1s 1st <1To endeavour by every fair means to cultivate afriendship with the Natives>1 <1and to treat them with all imaginable humanity.>1 2d <1A proper person or persons will be appointed to trade with the Natives for>1 <1all manner of Provisions, Fruit, and other Productions of the earth; and no>1 <1officer or Seaman, or other Person belonging to the Ship, excepting such as are so>1 <1appointed, shall Trade or offer to Trade for any sort of Provisions, Fruit, or>1 <1other productions ofthe earth unless they have my leave so to do.>1 3d <1Every Person employ'd a Shore on any duty what so ever is strictly to attend>1 <1to the same, and if by neglect he looseth any of his Arms or woorking tools, or>1 <1suffers them to be stole, thefull Value thereof will be charge'd againest>1 <1according to the Custom of the Navy in such cases, and he shall recive such>1 <1farther punishment as the mature ofthe offence may deserve.>1 4th <1The same penalty will be inflicted on every person who isfound to im->1 <1bezzle, trade or offer to trade with any Part of the Ships Stores of what>1 <1nature so ever.>1 76] 5th <1No Sort of Iron, or any thing that is made of Iron, or any sort of Cloth or>1 <1other usefull or necessary articles are to be given in exchangefor any thing but>1 <1Provisions.>1 <1J. C.>1 As soon as the Ship was properly secure'd I went on Shore accom- panied by Mr Banks and the other gentlemen, with a party of Men under arms, we took along with us Owhaa who conducted us to the place where the Dolphin water'd,s and made signs to us as well as we could understand that we might occupy that ground but it happen'd not to be fit for our purpose. No one of the Natives made the least opposission at our landing but came to us with all imaginable marks of friendship and submission. We afterwards made a circuit through the Woods, and then came on board. We did not find the Inhabitants to be numerous and therefore at first imagineds that several of them had fled from their habitations upon our arrival in the Bay but Mr Gore & some others who had been here before observ'd that a very great revolution must have happen'd--not near the number of inhabitants a great number of houses raiz'd, har[d]ly a vestage of some to be seen particularly what was call'd the Queens and not so much as a Hog or Fowl was to be seen--no very agreeable dis- covery to us whose Ideas of plenty upon our arrival at this Island (from the report of the Dolphin) was carried to the very highest pitch.s [77 FIDAY Apl. 14<1th>1. This morning we had a great many Canoes about the Ship, the Most of them came from the westwards but brought nothing with them but a few Cocoa-nuts &ca. Two that appear'd to be Chiefs we had on board together with several others for it was a hard matter to keep them out of the Ship as they clime like Munkeys, but it was still harder to keep them from Stealing but every thing that came within their reach, in this they are prodiges expert.s I made each of the two Chiefs a present of a Hatchet things that they seem'd mostly to Value. As soon as we had partly got clear of these people, I took two Boats and went to the Westward all the Gentlemen being along with me, my design was to see if there 78] was not a more comm[o]dious Harbour and to try the disposission of the Natives having along with us the two Chiefs above mentioned: the first place we landed at was in Great Canoe Harbours (so call'd by Capt Wallis) here the Natives Flock'd about us in great Numbers and in as friendly a Manner as we could wish, only that they shew'd a great inclination to pick our pockets. We were conducted to a Chief who for distinction sake we call'd <1Hercules,>1s after staying a Short time with him and distributing a few presents about us, we proceeded further and came to a Chief who I shall call <1Lycurgus,>1 this Man entertain'd us with Broil'd fish Bread fruit Cocoa-nuts &ca with great hospitality, and all the time took great care to tell us to take care of our pockets, as a great number of people had crowded about us. Notwithstanding the care we took Dr Solander and Dr Munkhouse had each of them their pockets pick'd the one of his spy glass and the others of his snuff Box, as soon as Lycurgus was made acquainted with the theift he disperse'd the people in a Moment and the method he made use of was to lay hold of the first thing that came in his way and throw it at them and happy was he or she that could get first out of his way; he seem'd very much concern'd for what had happend and by way of recompence offer'd us but every thing that was in his House, but we refuse'd to except of any thing and made signs to him that we only wanted the things again. He had already sent people out after them and it was not long before they were return'd. We found the Natives very Numerous where ever we came and from what we could judge seem'd very peaceably inclin'd. About 6 oClock in the evening we return'd on board very well satisfied with our little excursion. SATURDAY 15<1th>1. Winds at East during the day, in the night a light breeze off the land, and as I apprehend it be usual here for the Trade [79 wind to blow during great part of the Day from the Eastern board and to have it Calm or light breezes from the land that is Southerly during the night with fair weather, I shall only mention the wind and weather when they deviates from this rule. This morning several of the Chiefs we had seen yesterday came on board and brought with them Hogs, Bread fruit &ca for these we gave them Hatchets, Linnen and such things as they Valued. Having not met with yesterday a more convenient situation for every purpose we wanted than the place where we now are, I therefore without delay resolved to pitch upon some spot upon the NE point of the Bay properly situated for observing the Transit of Venus and at the same time under the command of the Ships Guns, and there to throw up a small fort for our defence, accordingly I went a Shore with a party of men accompanie'd by Mr Banks Dr Solander and Mr Green. We took along with us one of Mr Banks Tents, and after we had fix'd upon a place fit for our purpose we set up the Tent and Mark'd out the ground we intended to occupy.s By this time a great number of the Natives had got collected together about us, seemingly only to look on as not one of them had any weaphon either offensive or defensive. I would suffer none to come within the lines I had marked out ex- cepting one who appear'd to be a Chief and old Owhaa, to these two men we endeavour'd to explain as well as we could that we wanted that ground to sleep upon such a number of nights and than we should go a way. Whether they understood us or no is uncertain but no one appear'd the least displeased at what we wass about. Indeed the ground we had fix'd upon was of no use to them being part of the Sandy beach upon the shore of the Bay and not near to any of their habitations. It being too lates in the Day to do any thing more a party with a Petty officer was left to guard the Tent while we with a nother party took a walk into the woods and with us most of the natives. We had butjust cross'd the River when Mr Banks shott three Duckss at one shott which surprise'd them so much that the most of them fell down as tho they had been shott likewise. I was in hopes this would have had some good effect but the event did not prove it, for we had not been gone long from the Tent before the natives again began to gather about it and one of them more daring then the rest push'd one of the Centinals down, snatched the Musquet out of his 80] hand and made a push at him and then made off and with him all the rest, emmidiatly upon this the officer order'd the party to fire and the Man who took the Musquet was shott dead before he had got far from the Tent but the Musquet was carried quite off; when this happen'd I and Mr Banks with the other party were about half a Mile off returning out of the woods, upon hearing the fireing of musquets and the natives leaving us at the same time we susspected that some thing was the Matter and hasten'd our march, but before we arrive'd the whole was over and every one of the Natives fled except old Owhaa who stuck by us the whole time, and I beleive from the first either knew or had some suspicion that the People would attempt something at the Tent as he was very much agai[n]st our going into the woods out of sight of this Tent. However he might have other reasons for Mr Hicks being a shore the Day befores the natives would not permit him to go into the woods, this made me resolve to go to see whether they mea[n]t to proscribe bounds to us or no. Old Owhaa as I have said before was the only one of the Natives that stay'd by us and by his means we prevail'd on about 2o of them to come to the Tent and their sit down with us and en- deavour'd by every means in our power to convence them that the man was kill'd for taking away the Musquet and that we still would be friends with them.s At sunset they left us seemingly satisfied and we struck our Tent and went on board. SUNDAY 16<1th.>1 This Day warped the Ship nearer the Shore and moor'd her in such a Manner as to command all the Shore of the NE part of the Bay, but more particularly the place where we in- dended to Erect a Fort. Punished Richd Hutchins Seaman with 12 lashes for disobaying command. Several of the Natives came down to ye Shore of the Bay but not one of them came offto the Ship during the whole day; in the evening I went a Shore with only a Boats crew and some of the Gentlemen, the natives gather'd about us to the [81 number of about 3o or 40 and b[r]ought us Cocoa nuts &ca and seem'd as friendly as ever. MONDAY 17<1th>1. At 2 oClock this Morning departed this Life Mr Alex Buchan Landscip Draftsman to Mr Banks, a Gentlemen well skill'd in his profession and one that will be greatly miss'd in the course of this Voyage,s he had long been subject to a disorder in his Bowels which had more than once brought him to the Very point of death and was at the same time subject to fits of one of which he was taken on Saturday morning, this brought on his former disorder which put a period to his life. Mr Banks thought it not so adviseable to Enterr the Body a shore in a place where we was utter strangers to the Customs of the Natives on such Occations, it was therefore sets out to Sea and commited to that Element with all the decencey the cir- cumstance of the place would admit of. This morning several Chiefs from the Westward made us a visit, they brought with them Emblems of Peace which are young Plantains Trees, these they put on board the Ship before they would venture themselves; they brought us a present of two Hogs (an Article we find here very scarce) and some bread fruit, for these they had Hatchets and other things. In the afternoon we set up one of the Ships Tents a Shore and Mr Green and myself stay'd a Shore the night to Observe an Eclipse of Jupiters fi[r]st setilites which we was hinder'd from seeing by clowds. TUESDAY 18<1th.>1 Clowdy weather with some Showers of rain. This morning took as many people out of the Ship as could possibly be spar'd and set about Erecting a Fort, some were employ'd in trough- ings up intrenchments while others was cutting faccines Pickets &ca. The natives were so far from hindering us that several of them assisted in bring[ing] the Pickets and Faccines out of the woods and 82] seem'd quite unconcern'd at what we were about, the wood we made use on for this occation we purchased of them and we cut no tree down before we had first obtain'd their consent. By this time all the Ships sails were unbent and the Armourers Forge set up to repair the Iron work &ca Serve'd Fresh Pork to the Ships Compney to day for the first time, this is like to be a very scarce Article with us but as to Bread fruit Cocoa-nuts and Plantains the Natives supply us with as much as we can distroy.s WEDNESDAY 19<1th>1. This morning Lycurgus, whose real name is Toobouratomitas came with his Family from the westward in order from what we could understand to live near us, he brought with him the covering of a house with several other Materials for building one; we intend to requite the conf[i]dence this man seems to put in us by treating him with all imaginable kindness. Got on Shore some empty casks which we place'd in a double row along the bank of the River by way of a breast work on that side.s THURSDAY 20<1th>1. Wind at SE and Squally with rain; all hands employ'd a Shore, and nothing remarkable excepting that a Hog weighing about 9o pounds was brought along side the Ship for sale, but those who brought it would not part with it for any thing we could offer them but a carpenters broad ax and as this was what we could not part with they carried it away; thus we see those very People who but two years ago perfer'd a spike Nail to an Axe of any sort, have now so far learnt the use of them that they will not part with a Pig of 10 or 12 pounds weight for any thing under a Hatchet and even those of an inferior or small sort are in no great esteem with them, and small Nails such as 1od 2od or any under 4od are of no Value attall; but Beeds particularly white cut glass Beeds are much Value'd by them.s [83 Mr Banks and Dr Solander lay ashore tonight for the first time, their Markee's being set up within the walls of the Fort and fit for their riceptoin.s FRIDAY 21<1st>1. Got the Copper Oven aShore and fix'd it in the Bank of the breast works. Yesterday as Mr Green and Dr Munkhouse were taking a Walk they happen'd to meet with the Body of the Man we had Shot, as the Natives by signs made them fully understand, the manner in which the body was enterr'd being a little extraordinary I went to day with some others to see it. Close by the House wherein he resided when living was built a small Shade,s but whether for the purpose or no I cannot say for it was in all respects like some of the Shades or house's they live in. This Shade was about I4 or 16 feet long, 10 or 12 broad and of a proportional height, one end was wholy open the other end [and] the two sides were partly inclosed with a kind of wicker'd work. In this shade lay the Corps upon a Bier or frame of wood with a Matted bottom like a Cot frame use'd at sea, and supported by 4 posts about 5 feet from the Ground, the Body was cover'd with a Mat and over that a white Cloth, along side of the Body lay a wooden Club, one of their weaphons of warr. The head of the Corps lay next the close end of the Shad[e], and at this end lay 2 Cocoa-nut Shells such as they some times use to carry water in. At the other end of the Shade was a bunch of Green leaves with some dry'd twigs tied all together and stuck in the ground and a stone lying by them about as big as a Cocoa-nut, near to these lay a young Plantain tree, such as they use as Emblems of Peace, and by it lay a stone Axe; at the open end of the Shade wass hung in several Strings a great number of Palm nuts. Without the Shad[e] was Stuck upright in the ground the Stem of a Plantain tree about 5 feet high on the Top of which stud a Cocoa-nut shell full of fresh water, and on the side of the Post hung a small Bag wherein weres a few peices of Bread fruit roasted ready for eating some of the peices were fresh and others stale. The Natives did not seem to like that we should go near the Body and stud at a little distance themselves while we examine'd these matters and appear'd to be please'd when we came away. It cer- tainly was no very agreeable place for it Stunk intollerably and yet it was not above Io yards from the Huts wherein several of the Living resided. The first day we landed we saw the Skeleton of a human being laying in this manner under a Shade that was just big enough to 84] cover it, and some days after that when some of the gentlemen went with a design to examine it more narrowly it was gone. It was at this time thought that this manner of enterring their Dead was not common to all ranks of people as this was the first we had seen except the Skeleton just mentioned, but various were the opinions concerning the Provisions &ca laid about the dead; upon the whole it should seem that these people not only beleive in a Supream being but on a futerue state also, and that this must be meant either as an offering to some Deitie, or for the use of the dead in the other world, but this last is not very probable as there appear'd to be no Priest crafts in the thing, for what ever provisions were put there, it appear'd very plain to us that there it remaind untill it consum'd away of it self. It is most likely that we shall see more of this before we leave the Island, but if it is a Religious ceremoney we may not be able to understand it, for the Misteries of most Religions are very dark and not easily understud even by those who profess them. SATURDAY 22<1nd>1 to THURSDAY 27<1th>1. Nothing worthy of note happend, the people were continueally at work upon the Fort and the Natives were so far reconciled to us that they rather assisted us than not. This day we Mounted Six swivels at the Fort, which was now nearly finished, this Struck the Natives with some fear, and some fishermen who live'd upon the point move'd farther off, and old Owhaa told us by signs that after 4 Days we should fire great guns from the ShI-p, there were some other circumstances that cooperate'd with this mans Prophecy, whither an opinion hath prevail'd amongest them that after that time we intend to fire upon them, or that they in- tend to attack us we know not, the first we do not intend unless the latter takes place which is highly improbable.s FRIDAY 28<1th>1. This Morning a great number of the Natives came to us in their Canoes from different parts of the Island several of whome we had not seen before, one of these was the Woman called by the Dolphin the Queen of this Island. She first went to Mr Banks's Tent at the Fort where she was not known till the Master happening to go aShore who knew her and brought her on board with two men and several Women who seem'd to be all of her Family. I made them all [85 some presents or other, but to Obariea, for such is this womans name, I gave several things, in return for which, as soon as I went a Shore with her, she gave me a Hog and several Bunches of Plantains, these she caused to be carried from her Canoe's up to the Fort in a kind of a Procession she and I bringing up the rear. This Woman is about 40 years of Age and like most of the other Women very Masculine.s She is head or Chief of her own Family or Tribe but to all appearence hath no authority over the rest of the Inhabitants whatever she might have had when the Dolphin was here. Hercules, whose real name is Tootaha, is to all appearences the Chief man of the Islands and hath generally Viseted us twice a Week sence we have been here, and came always attended by a number of Canoes and people, and at those times we were sure to have a supply, more or less, of every thing the Island afforded, both from himself and from those that came with him, and it is a Chance thing that we got a Hog at any other time; he was with us at this time and did not appear very well pleased at the Notice we took of Obariea but I soon put him into a good humor by takeing him on board and makeing him some presents.s SATURDAY 29<1th>1. This Day got the four Guns out of the Hold and mounted 2 of them on the Quarter Deck, and the other 2 in the Fort on the bank of the River. For this day or 2 past about 3o Double Canoes, in which might be between 2 & 3oo people, had come into our neighbourhood this made us keep a very good lookout & a strick eye over all their motions.s SUNDAY 30<1th>1. This being the Day that Owhaa told us that we should fire our Guns no one of us went from the Fort except such as were sent out to watch the Motions of the natives,s however the day past over without any Visable alteration in the beheavour of any one of them. Queen Obaria visited us this morning pretty early and made 86] me sencible that I must give her a hatchet & then she would give me a Pig. I agree'd to her plan and the Pig was produced.s [MAY 1769] MONDAY May the 1<1st.>1 This morning Tootaha came on board the Ship and was very desireous of seeing into every Chest and Drawer that was in the Cabbin. I satisfied his curiosity so far as to open most of those that belong'd to me, he saw several things that he took a fancy to and collected them together, but at last he cast his eye upon the Adze I had from Mr Stephenss that was made in immitation of one of their Stone Adzes or axes, the moment he lay his hands upon it he of his own accord put away every thing he had got before and ask'd me if I would give him that, which I very readily did and he went away without asking for any one thing more, which I by ex- perence knew was a sure sign that he was well pleased with what he had got. This day one of the Natives who appear'd to be a Chief dined with us as he had done some days before, but than there were always some Women present and one or a nother of them put the Victuals into his mouth but this day there happen'd to be none to perform that office; when he was helpt to Victuals and desired to eat he sat in the chair like a Stattute without once attempting to put one morsel to his mouth and would certainly have gone without his dinner if one of the Servants had not fed him.s We have often found the Women very officious in feeding of us, from which it would seem that it is a Custom upon some occations for them to feed the Chiefs, however this is the only instance of that kind we have seen, or that they could not help themselves as well as any of us. This afternoon we set up the Observatory and took the Astro- nomicals Quadt a shore for the first time, together with some other Instruments. The Fort being no[w] finished and made as Tenables as the Time, Nature and situation of the ground, and materials we had to work upon would admit of. The North and south parts consisted of a Bank of earth 41/2 feet high on the inside, and a Ditch without, 10 feet broad and 6 feet deep: on the west side faceing the Bay a Bank of earth 4 feet high and Pallisades upon that, but no ditch the works [87 being at highwater mark: on the East side upon the Bank of the River was place'd a double row of casks: and as this was the weakest side the 2 four pounders were planted there, and the whole was defended besides these 2 guns with 6 Swivels and generally about 45 Men with small arms including the officers and gentlemen who resided aShore.s I now thought my self perfectly secure from any thing these people could attempt. TUESDAY 2<1nd.>1 This morning about 9 oClock when Mr Green and I went to set up the Quadt it was not to be found, it had never been taken out of the Packing case (which was abt 18 Inches square), sence it came from Mr Bird the Maker,s and the whole was pretty heavy, so that it was a matter of astonishment to us all how it could be taken away, as a Centinal stood the whole night within 5 yards of the door of the Tent where it was put together with several other Instruments but none of them was missing but this. However it was not long before we got information that one of the natives had taken it away and carried it to the Eastward. Immidiatly a resolution was taken to detain all the large Canoes that were in the Bay, and to seize upon Tootaha and some others of the Principle people and keep them in Custody untill the Quadt was produce'd, but this last we did not think proper immidiatly to put in execution as we had only Obaria in our power and the detaining of her by force would have alarm'd all the rest. In the meantime Mr Banks (who is always very alert upon all occations wherein the Natives are concern'd) and Mr Green went into the woods to enquire of Toobouratomita which way and where the Quadrant was gone; I very soon was inform'd that 88] these Three were gone to the Eastward in quest of it and some time after I follow'd my self with a small party of Men, but before I went away I gave orders that ifTootaha came either to the Ship or the Fort he was not to be detain'd, for I found that he had no hand in takeing away the Quadrant and that there was almost a certainty of geting it again. I met Mr Banks and Mr Green about 4 Miles from the Fort returning with the Quadrant, this was about Sunset and we all got back to the Fort about 8 oClock, where I found Tootaha in Custody and a Number of the Natives Crowding about the gate of the Fort. My going into the Woods with a party of arm'd men so alarm'd the Natives that in the evening they began to move off with their effects and a double Canoe puting off from the Bottom of the Bay was observ'd by the Ship and a boat sent after her, in this Canoe happen'd to be Tootaha and as soon as our boat came up with her he and all the people that were in the Canoe jump'd over board, and he only was taken up and brought on board the Ship together with the Canoe, the rest were permited to swim ashore. From the Ship Tootaha was sent to the Fort, where Mr Hicks thought proper to detain him untill I return'd. The scene between Toobouratomita and Tootaha when the former came into the Fort and found the latter in custody, was realy moveing, they wept over each other for some time, as for Tootaha he was so far prepossess'd with the thought that he was to be kill'd that he could not be made sensible to the contrary till he was carried out of the Fort to the people, many of whom express'd their joy by embraceing him; and after all he would not go away untill he had given us two Hoggs notwithstanding we did all in our power to hinder him, for it is very certain that the treatment he had met with from us did not merit such a reward. However we had it in our power to make him a present of equal Value whenever we pleased. We had now time to consider how the quadrant was Stoln: it is very probable that the man who took it had seen the box brought into the Tent or else had been well inform'd by others and had from that moment resolved to steal it, for about sunset last night a man was seen crawling a long the bank of the River behind the Fort, but on being spoken to he went away; however it is very clear that he was watching for an opportunity to get into the Fort in the dusk of the evening before the centinals were call'd in and while the most of our people, after leaving of work, were diverting themselves with the natives. However my self and some others were never out of the Fort and I did not stir out of the Tent where the quadt was till Sun set, then walk'd several times round the Inside of the Fort after which I went into Mr Banks's Markee and order'd the Drumer to beat the [89 Tattoo, in the doing of which he went 3 times round the works yet in one of these Short intervals when either mine or the drumers back [was] turn'd the man found means to carry offthe Box for immidiately upon beating the Tattoo every boddy came into the Fort, the centinals call'd and place'd in the inside when it wold have been impossible for him to have done it. Indeed we found it difficult to beleive that a naked Indian frighten'd of f[i]rearms as they are, would have made such an attemp'd at the certain risk of his life.s WEDNESDAY 3<1rd.>1 Very early this morning Tootaha sent for the Canoe we had detain'd yesterday and in the afternoon sent a man for an Ax and a Shirt in return for the Hogs he gave us last night, but as this man told us that Tootaha would not come near us himself in less then 1o days we thought proper not to send them to try if he would not come himself for them sooner.s THURSDAY 4<1th.>1 Some people came to the Fort to day from York Island, one of them gave us an account of 22 Islands lying in the neighbourhood of this. Set up the two Clocks, the one in the Tent wherein Mr Green and I lay and the other in the observatory.s This evening Tootaha sent a Man again for the Ax and Shirt, and we sent him word by the same Man, that Mr Banks and I would come and see him tomorrow and bring them along with us; for it now became necessary that we should take some step to reconcile this man to us in order to procure a Sufficient supply of Bread fruit and Cocoa-nuts which we have not had for these two days past, owing as we appre- hend to Tootaha's being still displeas'd with our late conduct,s or otherways the people take this method to shew their resentment of the treatment their Chief met with. FRIDAY 5<1th.>1 Early this Morning Tootaha sent some of his people to put us in mind of our promise and theys seem'd very uneasy untill we 90] set out, which Mr Banks Dr Solander and myself did about 10 oClock in the Pinnace having one of these men with us, as soon as we came to Appara,s the place where Tootaha resides, we saw a great number of people at the landing place near his house; one amongest them who had a large Turband about his head and a long white Stick in his hand, drove the others from the landing place by beating them with his stick and throwing stones at them, and at the same time directed us where abouts to land, after we landed he conducted us to the chief but in this there was no order every one crowding upon us calling out <1Tyo>1s <1Tootaha,>1 that is Tootaha was our friend. We found the chief siting under the shade of a large trees with a circle of Old men round him, he made us sit down by him and immidiatly ask'd for the Ax, I then gave him one together with an upper garment made of Broad Cloth after their fashion and a Shirt; the garment he put on, but the Shirt he gave to the man who first recived us at landing who was now seated by us and the Chief seem'd desirious that we should take particular notice of him.s By this time Obarea and several other Women whome we knew came and sat down by us. Tootaha did not stay long before he went away, as we thought to shew himself to the people in his new dress, but he was not gone long before he return'd and took his seat again for a few Minutes, then went away again as we were told to order something to be got for us to eat and at this time we gladly would have gone too being almost suffocated with the crowd that was about us. However here we remaind for about 10 Minutes longer when word was brought us that the Chief wanted us, we were then conducted to our own boat where we found him siting alone under the awning, he made signs to us to come into him which we did and as many with us as the boat would hold; here he order'd some Bread fruit and Cocoa-nuts to be brought of both of which we taisted. After we had sat here some time a Message was brought to the Chief who immidiatly went out of the Boat and we were disired to follow and were conducted to a large Area or Courtyard on one side of his Longs House where we were [91 entertaind with publick Wrestling. Tootaha seated himself at one end of the place and several of his principal men sat round him in a semicircle, We were desired to sit down here likewise but we rather choose to walk about. Every thing being now ready several men enter'd the Theater, 8, 10, or 12 and some times more, these walked about in a Stooping dancing posture forming a large Corve with their arms and almost every moment app[l]ying their left arm bent near their bodys and with their right hand open struck with a smack their left fore arm [and] breast,s in this Manner they walk'd about untill one challenge'd a nother which was done by motion and gesture without speaking one word. The Two antagonist[s] would then meet and endeavour to seize each other by the thighs, but if that faild they would seize each other by the hair of the head or where ever they could and then wristle together untill by main Strength the one or the other was thrown on his Back, this was always (except once) follow'd by three hurras from some old men who sat in the house and at the same time a nother compney of men would dance for about a Minute, the wrestlers all the time continuing their game without takeing the least Notice of any thing else. The only dexterity the wrestlers seem'd to make use of was in first seizing each other for after they had close'd it was all decided by main Strength. It would sometimes happen that neither the one nor the other could throw his antagonist, in this case they would either part by mutal consent or were parted by others. The conqueror never exulted over the Conquer'd, neither did the Conquer'd ever repine at his ill luck, but the whole was carried on with great good humour. Notwithstanding during the Combat their countenances appear'd to express as much fury as if they had been realy in earnest. The Women seem'd in a manner wholy to be excluded from this di- version.s There were present young and old near 5oo people, the Women do no[t] seem to pertake of this deversion, only some few of the principal ones were present and that appear'd to be owing to our being there. After this was over we was given to understand that we were to go to dinner and were desired to follow Tootaha who led us into our own boat and soon after came a small Pig ready Roasted with some bread fruit and cocoa-nuts, and here we thought we were to have dine'd but Tootaha after waiting about 1o Minutes in 92] purfound silences made signs to us to put of the Boat and go a Board which we did bringing him and Toobouratomita along with us: as soon as we got on board we all dine'd on the Cheer the Chief had provided. We soon found the good effects of having made friends with this man for it was no sooner known to the Natives that he was on board the Ship than they brought Bread fruit, Cocoa-nuts &ca to the Fort. SATURDAY 6<1th>1 and SUNDAY 7<1th.>1 Nothing remarkable only that the Natives supply us with as much bread fruit & Cocoa-nuts as we can destroy. MONDAY 8<1th.>1 Early this Morning the Master went to the Eastward in the Pinnace to try if he could not procure some Hogs and Fowls from that quarter, but he returnd in the evening without success, he saw but a very few and those the Inhabitants pretended belonged to Tootaha: so great is this mans influence or authority over them that they dare part with nothing without his consent, or other wise they only make use of his name to excuse themselves from parting with the few they have, for it is very certain these things are in no great plenty with them. TUESDAY 9<1th,>1 WEDNESDAY 10<1th>1 and THURSDAY 11<1th.>1 Nothing remarkable happen'd for the three days. Obarea, the Dolphins Queen, made us a Visit for the first time sence the Quadrant was Stolen, she introduce'd her self with a small Pigg for which she had a Hatchet and as soon as She got it she lugg'd out a Broken Ax and several peices of Old Iron, these I believe she must have had from the Dolphin, the Ax she wanted to be mended and Axes made of the Old Iron. I obliged her in the first but excuse'd my self from the latter. Sence the Natives have Seen the Forge at work they have frequently brought pieces of Iron to be made into one sort of Tools or other, which hath generally been done when ever it did not hinder our own work, being willing to oblige them in every thing in my power; these peices of Old Iron the natives must have got from the Dolphin, as we know of no other Ship being here and very probably some from us; for there is no species of theft they will not commit to get this Artic[l]e and I may say the same of the common seamen when in these parts.s FRIDAY 12<1th>1. Clowdy weather with Showers of Rain. This Morning a Man and two young women with some others came to the Fort whome we had not seen before: and as their manner of introduceing [93 themselves was a little uncommon I shall insert it: Mr Banks was as usual at the gate of the Fort trading with the people, when he was told that some Strangers were coming and therefore stood to receive them, the compney had with them about a Dozn young Plantains Trees and some other small Plants, these they laid down about 2o feet from Mr Banks, the People then made a lane between him and them, when this was done the Man (who appear'd to be only a Servant to the 2 Women) brought the young Plantains Singley, together with some of the other Plants and gave them to Mr Banks, and at the delivery of each pronounce'd a Short sentence, which we understood not,s after he had thus dispose'd of all his Plantain trees he took several peices of Cloth and spread them on the ground, one of the Young Women then step'd upon the Cloth and with as much Innocency as one could possibly conceve, expose'd herself intirely naked from the waist downwards, in this manner she turn'd her Self once or twice round, I am not certain which, then step'd of the Cloth and drop'd down her clothes, more Cloth was then spread upon the Former and she again perform'd the same ceremony; the Cloth was then rowled up and given to Mr Banks and the two young women went and embraced him which ended the Ceremoney.s SATURDAY 13<1th.>1 Nothing worthy of note happen'd dureing the day, in the night one of the Natives attempted to get into the Fort by climing over the Walls but being discover'd by the Centinals he made off; the Iron and Iron tools daily in use at the Armourers Forge are temptations that these people cannot possibly withstand. SUNDAY 14<1th.>1 This day we perform'd divine Service in one of the Tents in the Fort where several of the Natives attended and behaved with great decency the whole time: this day closed with an odd Scenes at the Gate of the Fort where a young fellow above 6 feet high lay with a little Girl about 10 or 12 years of age publickly before several 94] of our people and a number of the Natives. What makes me mention this, is because, it appear'd to be done more from Custom than Lewdness,s for there were several women present particularly Obarea and several others of the better sort and these were so far from shewing the least disaprobation that they instructed the girl how she should act her part, who young as she was, did not seem to want it. MONDAY 15<1th>1. Winds Variable and Clowdy weather. Last night one of our Water casks was taken away from the outside of the Fort where they stood full of water; in the Morning there was not one of the Natives but what knew it was gone, yet contrary to what we had always met with on these occasions, not one of them would give us anys information about it, and I thought it of too little consequence to take any methods to oblige them. In the Evening Toobouratomita and his Wife and a Man be- longing to Tootaha, would needs lay all night by the Casks to prevent any more from being taken away, but as we had place'd a Centinal there this care of theirs became unnecessary and they were prevaild upon to go home, but before they went away they made signs to the Centinal to keep his eys open; from this it should seem that they knew that an attempt would be made in the night to take away more which would have been done had not the Centinal prevented it. TUESDAY 16<1th.>1 Winds Westerly, the Moming clowdy with heavy showers of rain, the remainder of the day fair weather: from this day nothing worth remark happen'd untill MONDAY 22<1nd>1 which was usher'd in with thick Clowdy weather and excessive hard Showers of rain and very much Thunder and Light- ning which continued the greatest part of the Day.s [95 TUESDAY 23<1rd>1. Winds Southerly and fair weather in the Fore noon but in the after-noon showery. We have had a Scarcity of all sorts of fruit for these 2 days past which we immagine to be owning to the wet weather. WEDNESDAY 24<1th>1. Fine Clear weather all this Day. Having found the Long-boat leakey for these few days past we haled her ashore to day to stop the leakes, when to our great surprise we found her bottom so much eaten by the wormss that it was necessary to give her a new one, and all the Carpenters were immidiatly set to work upon her. THURSDAY 25<1th>1. Most part of these 24 hours Clowdy with frequent showers of rain. FRIDAY 26<1th>1. Some flying showers of rain. This morning we haled the Pinnace a Shore to examine her bottom and had the satisfaction to find that not one worm had touched it, notwithstanding she hath been in the water nearly as long as the Long-boat; this must be owing to the white Lead with which her bottom is painted, the Long- boats being pay'd with Varnish of Pine, for no other reason can be assignd why the one should be preserv'd and the other distroyd, when they are both built on the same sort of wood and have been in equall use. From this circumstance alone the bottoms of all Boats sent into Countrys where these Worms are ought to be painted with white lead, and the Ship supply'd with a good Stock in order to give them a new coat whenever its necessary, by this means they would be preserve'd free from these distructive vermin. The Long-boats bottom being so much destroy'd appear'd a little extraordinary as the Dolphins Launch was in the water at this very place full as long and no such thing happen'd to her, as the officers that were in the Dolphin say. SATURDAY 27<1th>1. Winds Variable and fair weather. SUNDAY 28<1th>1.s Winds Southerly and clear weather. This morning, my self, Mr Banks and Dr Solander set out in the Pinnace to pay Tootaha a Viset who had moved from Apparra to the sw part of the 96] Isld.s What induced us to make him this Viset was a message we had received from him some days ago importing that if we would go to him he would give us several Hogs, we had no great faith in this yet we wass resolved to try, and set out accordingly, it was night before we reached the place where he was and as we had left the Boat about half way behind us we were oblige'd to take up our quarters with him for the night. The Chief received us in a very friendly manner and a Pig was order'd to be kill'd & dressed for supper, but we saved his Life for the present thinking it would do us more service in a nother place and we supp'd on fruit and what else we could get: here wass along with the Chief Obarea and many more that we knowed, they all seem'd to be travellers like ourselves, for nither the Canoes they had along with them nor the houses where they were were sufficient to contain the one half of them. We were in all Six of us and after supper began to look out for lodgings. Mr Banks went to one place Dr Solander to a nother, while I and the other three went to a third, we all of us took as much care of the little we had about us as possible knowing very well what sort of people we were among, yet notwithstanding all the care we took before 12 oClock the most of us had lost something or other, for my own part I had my stockings taken from under my head and yet I am certain that I was not a Sleep the whole time, Obarea took charge of Mr Banks's things and yet they were stolen from her as she pretended,s Tootaha was acquainted with what had happen'd I believe by Obarea her self and both he and hers made some stir about it but this was all meer shew and ended in nothing; a little time after this Tootaha came to the Hutt where I and those with me lay and enter- tain'd us with a consort of Musick, consisting of three Drums four Flutes and singing, this lasted about an hour and then they retire'd; the Musick and singing wass so much of a peice that I was very glad when it was over. We stay'd with them till near noon the next day in hopes of geting some of our things again, and likewise some Hogs but we were at last obliged to come away with the one we had save'd out of the fire last night, and a promise from Tootaha that he would come to the Ship in a Day or two with more and bring with him the things that we had lost, a promise that we had no reason to expect he will fulfill. Thus ended our Viset and we got to the Fort late in the evening. [97 TUESDAY 30<1th>1. We are now very buisy in preparing our Instruments &ca for the Observation and Instructing such Gentlemen in the use of them as I intend to send to other parts to Observe for fear we should fail here. WEDNESDAY 31<1st.>1 Late this Evening the Carpenters finished the Long-boat. [JUNE 1769] THURSDAY 1<1st>1 June 1769. This day I sent Lieutenant Gore in the Long-boat to York Islands with Dr Munkhouse and Mr Sporing (a Gentleman belonging to Mr Banks) to observe the Transit of Venus, Mr Green having furnished them with Instruments for that purpose. Mr Banks and some of the Natives of this Island went along with them. FRIDAY 2<1nd>1 of June. Very early this morning Lieuts Hicks, Ms Clerk, Mr Petersgills and Mr Saunders, went away in the Pinnace to the Eastward, with orders to fix upon some convenient situation on this Islands and there to observe the Transit of Venus-they being likewise provided with Instruments for that purpose. SATURDAY 3<1rd.>1 This day prov'd as favourable to our purpose as we could wish, not a Clowd was to be seen the whole day and the Air was perfectly clear, so that we had every advantage we could desire in Observing the whole of the passage of the Planet Venus over the Suns disk: we very distinctly saw an Atmosphere or dusky shade round the body of the Planet which very much disturbed the times 98] of the Contacts particularly the two internal ones. Dr Solander observed as well as Mr Green and my self, and we differ'd from one another in observeing the times of the Contacts much more than could be expected.s Mr Greens Telescope and mine were of the same Mag[n]ifying power but that of the Dr was greater then ours. It was ne[a]rly calm the whole day and the Thermometer expose'd to the Sun about the middle of the Day rose to a degree of heat (119)s we have not before met with. SUNDAY 4<1th>1 June. Punished Archd Wolf with two Dozn Lashes for theft, having broken into one of the Store rooms and stolen from thence a large quantity of spike Nails, some few of them were found upon him.s This evening the gentlemen that were sent to observe the Transit of Venus returnd with success. Those that were sent to York Island were well received by the Natives; that Island appear'd to them not to be very fruitfull. MONDAY 5<1th.>1 Got some of the Bread a Shore out of the Bread room to dry and clean. Yesterday being His Majestys Birth Day we kept it to day, and had several of the Chiefs to dine with us.s TUESDAY 6<1th.>1 This Day and for some days past we have been in- form'd by several of the Natives that about 10 or 15 Months ago,s Two Ships touched at this Island and stay'd 1o days in a Harbour to the Eastward calle'd <1Ohidea>1,s the Commanders name was <1Toottera>1 so at least they call'd him and that one of the Natives call'd <1Orette>1s Brother to the Chief of Ohidea went away with him; they likewise say that these Ship[s] brought the Venerial distemper to this Island [99 where it is now as common as in any part of the world and which the people bear with as little concern as if they had been accustomed to it for ages past. We had not been here many days before s me of our people got this disease and as no such thing happen Dolphins people while she was here that I ever heard off,I had reason (notwithstanding the improbability of the thing) to think that we had brought it along with us which gave me no small uneasiness and dids all in my power to prevent its progress, but all I could do was to little purpose for I may safely say that I was not assisted by any one person in ye Ship,s and was oblige'd to have the most part of the Ships Compney a Shore every day to work upon the Fort and a Strong guard every night and the Women were so very liberal with their favours, or else Nails, Shirts &ca were temptations that they could not withstand, that this distemper very soon spread it self over the greatest part of the Ships Compney but now I have the satisfaction to find that the Natives all agree that we did not bring it here.s However this is little satisfaction to them who must suffer by it in a very great degree and may in time spread it self over all the Islands in the South Seas, to the eternal reproach of those who first brought it among them. I had taken the greatest pains to discover if any of the Ships Company had the disorder upon him for above a month before our arrival here and ordered the Surgeon to examine every man the least suspected who declar'd to me that only one man in the Ship was the least affected with it and his complaint was a carious shin bone; this man has not had connection with one woman in the Island.s We have several times seen Iron tools and other articles with these people that we suspected came not from the Dolphin and these they now say they had from these two Ships. 100] WEDNESDAY 7<1th,>1 THURSDAY 8<1th>1 FRIDAY 9<1th.>1 These three days we have been employ'd in careening both sides of the Ship and paying them with Pitch and Brimstone, we found her bottom in good order and that the Worm had not got into it.s SATURDAY 10<1th.>1 Winds Variable with very much Rain all Day and last night. SUNDAY 11<1th.>1 Clowdy with rain last night and this Morning the remainder of the day fair weather. This Day Mr Banks and I took Toobouratomita on board the Ship and shew'd him the Print con- taining the Colours worne by the Ships of different Nations and very soon made him understand that we wanted to know which of them was worne by the Ships that were at Ohidea, he at once pitched upon the Spanish Flag and would by no means admit of any other: this together with several Articles we have lately seen amongest these people Such as jackets Shirts &ca usually worne by Spanish Seamen, proves beyond doubt that they must have been Ships of that Nation and come from some Port on the Coast of South America. MONDAY 12<1th.>1 Yesterday complaint was made to me by some of the Natives that Jno Thurman and Jams Nicholson Seamn had taken by force from them several Bows and Arrows and Plated Hair,s and the fact being proved upon them they were this Day punish'd with two Dozn lashes each. TUESDAY 13<1th.>1 Some Showers of rain last night, but fair weather the most part of the Day. Tootaha whome we have not seen for some time past paid us a Viset to Day, he brought with him a Hog and some Bread fruit for which he was well paid. WEDNESDAY 14<1th>1. Between 2 and 4 oClock this Morning one of the Natives Stole out of the Fort an Iron rake made use of for the Oven, it happend to be set up againest the wall and by that means was Visible from the outside and had been seen by them in the evening as a Man had been seen lurking about the Fort some hours before the thing was miss'd. I was inform'd by some others of the Natives that he watched an oppertunity when the Centinals back was turn'd and hooked it with a long crooked stick and haled it over the wall; when I came to be inform'd of this theft in the Morning, I resolved to [101 recover it by some means or other and accordingly went and took posession of all the Canoes of any Value I could meet with and brought them into the River behind the Fort to the number of 22, and told the Natives then present (most of them being the owners of the Canoes) that unless the Principal things they had stolen from us were restored, I would burn them every one, not that I ever intend to put this in execution, and yet I was very much displeased with them as they were daily either commiting or attempting to commit one theft or other, when at the same time (contrary to the opinion of every body) I would not suffer them to be fired upon, for this would have been puting it in the power of the Centinals to have fired upon them upon the most sligh[t] est occasions as I had before experienced, and I have a great objection to fireing with powder only amongest people who know not the differeence; for by this they would learn to dispense fire arms and think their own arms superiyor and if ever such an Opinion prevail'd they would certainly attack you the event of might prove as unfavourable to you as them. About Noon the rake was restore'd us, when they wanted to have their Canoes again: but now as I had them in my posession I was resolved to try if they would not redeem them by restoring what they had stolen from us before; the principal things which we had lost were the Marine Musquet, a pair of Pistols belonging to Mr Banks, a sword belongings one of the Petty officers and a Water Cask with some other articles not worth mentioning: some said that these things were not in the Island, others that Tootaha had them and those of Tootaha's friends laid the whole to Obarea and I believe the whole was between these two persons.s THURSDAY 15<1th>1. We have been employ'd for some days past in overhauling all the Sea provisions, and stowing such as we found in a state of decay to hand in order to be first expended but having the people divided between the Ship and the Shore this work as well as the refiting the Ship goes but slowly on.s 102] FRIDAY 16<1th>1 and SATURDAY 17<1th.>1 Variable winds with Showers of rain and Clowdy weather. SUNDAY 18<1th.>1 Variable winds and clear weather. This night we observe'd the Moon totally eclipse'd. MONDAY 19<1th>1. Punished james Tunley with 12 lashes for takeing Rum out of the Cask on the quarter deck. TUESDAY 20<1th>1. Got the Powder a Shore to air all of which we found in a bad condition and the Gunner inform's me that it was very little better when it came first on board. Last night Obarea made us a Viset who we have not seen for some time: we were told of her coming and that she would bring with her some of the Stolen things, which we gave credit to because we knew several of them were in her posession, but we were surprised to find this woman put her self wholy in our power and not bring with her one article of what we had lost. The excuse she made was that her gallant, a Man that used to be along with her, did steal them and she had beat him and turn'd him away; but she was so sensible of her own guilt that she was ready to drop down through fear-and yet she had resolution enough to insist upon sleeping in Mr Bank's Tent all night and was with diffucculty prevaild upon to go to her Canoe altho no one took the least notice of her.s In the Morning she brought her Canoe with every thing she had to the Gate of the Fort, after which we could not help admireing her for her Courage and the confidence she seem'd to place in us and thought that we could do no less than to receive her into favour and accept the presents she had brought us which Con- sisted of a Hog a Dog Some Bread fruit & Plantains.s We refused to except of the Dog as being an animal we had no use for, at which she seem'd a little surprised and told us that it was very good eating and [103 we very soon had an oppertunity to find that it was so, for Mr Banks having bought a basket of fruit in which happend to be the thigh of a Dog ready dress'd, of this several of us taisted and found that it was meat not to be dispise'd and therefore took Obarea's dog and had him immidiatly dress'd by some of the Natives in the following manner. They first made a hole in the ground about a foot deep in which they made a fire and heated some small Stones, while this was doing the Dog was Strangle'd and the hair got off by laying hims frequently upon the fire, and as clean as if it had been scalded off with hot water, his intrails were taken out and the whole washed clean, and as soon as the stones and hole was sufficiently heated, the fire was put out, and part of the Stones were left in the bottom of the hole, upon these stones were laid Green leaves and upon them the Dog together with the entrails. These were likwise cover'd with leaves and over them hot stones, and then the whole was close cover'd with mould: after he had laid here about 4 hours, the Oven (for so I must call it) was open'd and the Dog taken out whole and well done, and it was the opinion of every one who taisted of it that they Never eat sweeter meat, we therefore resolved for the future not to despise Dogs flesh.s It is in this manner that the Natives dress, or Bake all their Victuals that require it, Flesh, Fish and fruit. I now gave over all thought of recovering any of the things the natives had stolen from us and therefore intend to give them up their Canoes when ever they apply for them. WEDNESDAY 21<1st>1. Empd drying the Powder geting on board Wood, Water &ca. Confin'd Robt Anderson seaman for refuseing to obey the orders of the Mate when at work in the hold. This morning a Chief whose name is Oamo,s and one we had not seen before, came to the Fort, there came with him a Boy about 7 years of Age and a young Woman about 18 or 20; at the time of their Coming Obarea and several others were in the Fort, they went out to meet them, having first uncover'd their heads and bodies as low as their waists and the same thing was done by all those that were on the out side of the Fort; as we looked upon this as a ceremonial Respect and had not 104] seen it paid to any one before we thought that this Oamo must be some extraordinary person, and wonder'd to see so little notice taken of him after the Ceremony was over. The young Woman that came along with him Could not be prevaild upon to come into the Fort and the Boy was carried upon a Mans Back, altho he was as able to walk as the Man who carried him. This lead us to inquire who they were and we was inform'd that the Boy was Heir apparent to the Sovereignty of the Island and the young woman was his sister and as such the respect was paid them,s which was due to no one else except the <1Arreedehi>1 which was not Tootaha from what we could learn, but some other person who we had not seen, or like to do, for they say that he is no friend of ours and therefore will not come near us.s The young Boy above mention'd is Son to Oamo by Obarea, but Oamo and Obarea did not at this time live together as man and wife he not being able to endure with her troublesome disposission. I mention this because it shews that separation in the Marrige state is not unknown to this people. THURSDAY 22<1nd>1. This morning I released Robt Anderson from confinement at the intercession of the Master and a promise of behaving better for the futher.s FRIDAY 23<1rd>1. This morning Manuel Ferraras Seaman a Portugese was missing, and I had some reason to think that he was gone with an intent to stay here. It was not long before I was inform'd that he was at Apparra with Tootaha, the man who gave us this information was one of Tootahas Servants, he was offer'd a Hatchet if he would go to Apparra and bring him to us. This was no doubts the very thing he came for, for he immidiately set out and return'd with the man in the evening; the man in his own difence said, that as he was going to the [105 boat in order to go on board last night, he was taken away by force by 3 men, put into a Canoe and carried to Apparra; upon enquiry I found it to be so and that Tootaha wold have kept him had he not been perswaided to the Contrary or perhaps he thought the ax of more value then the man.s SATURDAY 24<1th>1 & SUNDAY 25<1th>1. Nothing remarkable. MONDAY 26<1th>1.s Very early this morning I set out in the Pinnace, accompined by Mr Banks and one of ye Natives with an intent to make the Circuit of the Island in order to examine and draw a Sketch of the Coast and Harbours thereof. We proceeded to the Eastward and found the shore to trend EBs and EsE about Io Miles unguarded by any reef.s About 8 oClock we landed on the district of Ohiainus and was introduced to the chief whose name was Ahio; here we found some of our old friends one of which would needs accom- pany us. From hence we proceeded on foot (the Boat rowing along shore sounding) and met with nothing remarkable (excepting a small roaste'd Pig laying upon an Alter near to a place where lay the body or bones of a dead person) untill we arrived at Whideas a large district in which there are two chiefs Toomohinneo and Orrette,s in this last chiefs district callds we were inform'd the Spanish Ships had Anchord. We were Shew'd the place where they pitch'd their Tents and the Brook they had water'd at together with the Situation of the Ships and this was all the proof we had of Shipping having been there: this place is situate on the west side of a large bay of which place are two small Islands Booarou & Taawirry,s on the first of which Mr Hicks made His observation of the Transit. Here the coast trends sBE and South about 4 Leagues to the bottom of the bay; before it lay reefs of Corral rocks which together with the shore form several good Harbours in which are good anchorage in 20 and 24 fathom water. From we proceeded on foot untill we found it impractical to reach the bottom of ye Bay before night [107 without the boat which was now call'd in.s Our last Indian com- panion [wished] to perswaid us to go no farther, telling us that [we were] going to a place where no provisions was to be got [and] that the People would kill him & that they were at [war] with Tootaha & would kill us, we made light of these reports and let him see us put balls into our guns on which he consented to accompany us. We row'd to [the] bottom of the Bay where we did not arrive till after [dark] here in stead of find[ing] enemies we found several of our old acquaintance who were there in their canoes and [appear'd] to be travelors like our selves, by them we were accomodated with lodgings. At day break we got up and while the boat was geting ready, I took a walk into the Country which I found here to be a low neck of lands with a chain of morasses over which they track their canoes across the [Island] which may be about 2 Miles or more; this Isthmus [divides] the Island into two districts or Kingdoms, wholy independent of each other as we were told; we were told also that the country we were now in, as well as all the country we had come from was call'd Oboreanoo or Otahite nuas and was Subject to Tootaha, but we were now on the borders of Tiarreboo or Otahite Etes the Enimies country we had yesterday heard of. We embark'd and proceed along [the] Shore by the direction of our pilots and landed in one of the first whennuass or districts in the enimies country calld Annuwhe,s the chiefs name Marie Tatas here we were well recieved and after some delay [furnished] with a large Hog for which we gave a axe; we observ'd here that on our landing every one but the chief [had] their ahous stripe'd down oftheir Shoulders.s We saw [some] twelve pound shott, one mark'd with the English broad Arrow, which they said had been given them by Toottero the Commander of the Spanish Ships.s Among [the] crowd which was pretty numerous there were only [ ]s that we remembered to a Seen. 108] From hence Mr Banks and I proceeded on foot and [sent] the boat to a distant point, as these people shewed [as] much friendship both to us and our guides as we had any where met with. At last we arrived at the district of Ohitepepa, Chiefs name Waheatuas Earee de hi of the Kingdom of Tearraboo, situate on the Eastermost point of the large bay before mentioned along the sides of which we had till now been travilling. On the west side of the above point is Ohitepepa bay which in many respects is similar to Royal or Matavie bay and is seated in every bit as fertile a part of the Island, there are also harbours between this and the Isthmus proper and convenent for Shipping made by reefs of Corral rocks. In Ohitepepa bay is [a] rivers so large that we were obliged to ferry over in a Canoe, & our train which was pretty numerous, to swim. We were disire'd to stay and Sleep and was told that Waheatua would come to us, but the day being far Spent I would not stop but proceeded on foot towards the sE point of the Island & presently met with King Waheatua who was a very old man with a white beard, not at all attended by a crowd of people, we just stop'd to pay our compliments and recieve the same, than pro- ceeded along a very fine country every part of which was cultivated, the very brooks were wall'd in to a very narrow channell and the Sea bank'd out. On every point was a Morai and several inland all ornamented with carved work, some with the images of men standing on each others head, others with a kind of lattice work on the top of which were the figures of Birds &ca.s We likewise saw a great number of large double Canoes hauld up upon the Shore, they were of different built from those we had seen and much larger and their awnings supported on ca[r]ved pillors, there Sterns very high and ornamented with carving. After having tire'd our selves with walking we took to the boat and here we miss'd both our Indian guides, we [109 had however with us one whome we knew, the young chief Tiarees who call'd himself son of Whaeatua and seem'd to have much influance, he went with us and we rowed along shore till dark then put into a little creek not far from the sE point of the Island.s Here we found a deserted long house where we resolved to spend the night and began to search for something to eat, but nothing could we get; some after came Tiaree's retinue and his double canoe in the Awning of which Mr Banks slept while I and the peepe [people?] slept [in] the long house. In the night our first Indian guide Tooahow,s joind us and came and laid down by me. WEDNESDAY 28<1th>1. Before we set out in the Morning we waited a little in hopes that the people would furnish us with some provisions, but seeing that none came we pro[ceed'd] with our guide Tooahow, leaving the young chief behind us. After walking a few miles the boat rowing along shore, we came up to a number of double Canoes and [were] surprized to find in them a great number of our friends an[d] acquaintance. Here we made sure of geting some [provision] but we were here again disappointed, for altho the Cocoa-nut trees were full of fruit, our friends had no property in them or in any thing else we wanted, [we] therefore imbarked in our boat and proceeded round the sE point of the Island, here the land rose in hills directly from the Seas and of Course but thinly inhabited; the reef was broken and danger[ou]s and had it not been for our pilot we should have found it diffucult to proceed, after rowing about a league round this point of the Island we arrived at a flat, call'd Ahowes governed [by] Chief Mathiabo,s here the shore is wholy cover'd by a [f ] Reef 110] which forms a very good harbours in which we landed and purchass'd a good supply of provisions. Here we saw an unusual sight in one house, at one end was a [board?] of a semicircular figure to which was fasten'd 15 of the lower Jaw bones of men, all seemingly firm and in good condition with scarce a tooth wanting among them, we could not learn the reason of their being placed there.s We saw here a goose and a Turkey which were left at Matavie by Capt Wallice. When we left this place King Mathiabo desired to accompany us to a friend of his who was a great man, we accordingly took him into the boat and he made us call at as many whennuas as possible but we met with nothing worth remarking, except in one place where we saw [two?] of the largest Canoes we had seen any where upon [the] Island, the general face of the country was much more wooded than the other side of the Island, the flats fruitfull and populous. In the course of our progress we bought Cocoa nutts, Bread fruit & fish more than enough. We proceeded all the way within the reef and in some places met with very shole waters. In the evening we opend the large bay which lay opposite to that on the other side of the Island. About two thirds down the Bay we resolved to take up our lodgings for the night at a large long house in the Whennua <1owiourou>1s govern'd by King Wive- rows who received us with great hospitality and orderd his people to assist us in dressing our provisions which they did with great readi- ness; here we supped and observed that our friend Mathiabo was cer- tainly a great man as Wiverow with his own hands Mixed a Shell of poipoi (that is Breadfruit, Plantains &ca mixed with Cocoa nut Milk and water to the consistance of Custard) for his Supper. When bed time came he complaind much of cold and desired a cloak to sleep in which was granted him as he had behaved so well all day, we went and prepared a bed for him, Mr Banks and my self, in which we two lay down, thinking that Mathiabo who was absent was gone to wash himself; however very soon one of the Natives came and told us that our friend had made off with the cloak: at first we did not believe it but soon after Tooahow came and confirmed the report, we started [111 up and immidiately gave chase in the dark obliging Wiverow's brother to go with us he being the first that came in our way. We pursued about 3/4 of a mile and so close that the Cloak was brought us and we return'd to our lodgings where all hand[s] were mattowed,s that is frighten'd, and fled, we soon however prevail'd on some of them to return & Wiverow & his wife slept on the floar nigh us the remainder of the night. Towards morning we were awaked by the alarming circumstance of our boat being missing, we were however soon relieved from our uncomfortable situation by the sight of the boat which had drove from her grapling. By such time as the boat return'd it was day-light and live set off and rowd to the next Whennua which lies near the bottom of the bay and is govern Omae,s he together with his wife accompanied us in our boat a great way, passing the bottom of the Bays where the [country?] divides; in this passage we were obliged to come without the Reef which we had been within ever sence we past the sE point of the Island. I had forgot to mention that at Oweourou which is situate on the sw side of Tearreboo about 5 [Miles] sE from the Isthmus, is a large safe and commodious harbour, inferior to no one on the Island, and the land about it rich in produce. We landed upon the first Whennua in Opooreonoos where we found several of our old acquaintances, what we saw here remarkable was a Morie paved and adorned with [a] pyramid about five feet high of the fruits of Cratova [or] Palm nuts, on the pave'd floor near this were three skulls of men laid in a row & nigh them a little shade covering a very rough image of stone about I8 Inches high; near to the Morie stood an Altar under which lay the Skull bones of 26 Hogs and 6 Dogs. From hence we proceeded farther and met with a very extraordinary curiosity call'd Mahuwe++ (++ See Note page 2 1) s and said 112] by the Natives to be used in their Heiva's or publick entertainments, probably as punch is in a Puppet Show. It was the figure of a man made in basket work 71/2 feet high and every [other] way large in pro- portion, the head was ornamented with four nobs resembling stumps of horns three stood in front and one behind, the whole ofthis figure was cover'd with feathers, white for the ground upon which [black ] imitating hair and the Marks of tattou, it had on a maro or cloth about its loins, under which were proofs of its being intended for the figure of a man. From hence we proceeded to Papara the seat of our friend Oborea where we meant to sleep, in this way we pass'd through a very good harbour and the only one on the South side of Opooreonoo fit for shipping; it is Situate about 5 Miles to the west- ward of the Isthmus, between two small Islands that lay near the shore and about a Mile from each other.s About a League and a half to the westward of this Harbour is the seat of Obarea where, as I have before observed, we landed, we got here some time before night, she proved not to be at home, however we found People enough to enter- tain us, and therefore resolved to sleep in her house a small neat one with open bamboo walls. Near this place stands the Morie of Oamo or Obarea,s a wonderfull peice of Indian Architecture and far exceeds every thing of its kind upon the whole Island, it is a long square of [113 stone work built Pyramidically, the base is 267 feet by 87, the breadth and length at top is 177 feet by 7, it riseth by large steps all round, like those leading up to a sun dial, there are 11 of those each 4 feet high which makes the whole height 44 feet; the foundation is of squared rockstone of a redish Colour one Corner Stone of which measured 4s 7s by 2 fs 4 In. its thickness 15 Inches; every step was composed of one row of Coral rock very neatly squared the rest of round Stones like large pebbles which seem'd to have been worked by their uniformness in size and Shape. Of the Coral Stones some were large (31/2 feet by 21/2)- On the middle of the top stood the figure of a bird carved in wood and near it lay the broken one carved in stone: there was no hollow or cavity in the inside the whole being fill'd up with stone. The whole was inclosed in a Spacious Area part of one side of which it made, the Size of this Area was 36o feet by 354 f. incompass'd by a wall of stone, in it were several Etoa trees, or what I call Cypress, and Plantains. Near to thIs Morie were Several small ones all going to decay, and on the beach between them and the Sea lay great quantitys of human bones; near the great Morie were many large Altars Supported by 6 or 8 pillars each about 10 feet high, on [which] were exposed meat for Eatuas or God, there we saw the Sculls and bones of many hogs and dogs. This Morie stands on the South side of Opooreonoo upon a low point [of] land about 100 Yards from the Sea, it appear'd to have been built many years ago, being in a state of decay as most of their Mories are, from this it should seem that this Island has been in a more florishing state than it is a[t] present, or that Religious customs [are] like most other nations, by these people less observed. In the morning proceeded again meeting with nothing worth notice all day, only that we were a good deal retarded by reefs shoals &ca. At night we came to Attahouroos where we had been once before on a Viset to Tootaha. Here we met with many of [our]s Acquaintances who receiv'd us very cordially giving us a good supper and makeing a good bed. From hence we proceeded homeward the next morning through a Country which we had before seen in our way Viseted Tootaha and met with a favourable reception. We stay'd with him [but] a short time and then proceeded to the Fort where we arrived in the evening of Saturday July the 1st-having made the circuit of the whole Island which we estimated at some thing more than 3o Leagues. 114] The Plan or Sketch which I have drawn, altho it cannot be very accurate yet it will be found sufficient to point out the Situations of the different Bays and harbours and the figure of the Island and I believe is without any material error. [JULY 1769] [sFor the first 2 or 3 days we was out upon this Excursion we labour'd under some difficulty for want of Provisions, particularly Bread an Article we took but little of with us, not doubting but we should get Bread fruit more than sufficient for a Boats Crew at every place we went to, but on the Contrary we found the Season for that Fruit whole[ly] over & not one to be seen on the Trees,s & all other Fruits & roots very scarce; the Natives live now on Sour Paiste which is made from bread fruit, & some bread fruit & Wild Plantains that they get from the Mountains where the Season is later, & on Nuts not unlike a Chess Nutt,s which are now in Perfection, but all these Articles are at present very scarce, & therefore it is no wonder that the Natives have not supply'd us with these things of late. Upon my return to the Ship I found that the Provisions had been all examin'd & the Water got on bd amounting to 65 Tuns, I now determin'd to get every thing off from the Shore & leave the Place as soon as Possible, the geting the several Articles on board & Scraping & Paying the Ships Sides took us up the whole of the following week without anything remarkable happening until SUNDAY 9<1th.>1 When sometime in the Middle Watch Clement Webb & SamI Gibson both Marines & young Men found means to get away from the Fort (which was now no hard matter to do) & in the morning were not to be found, as it was known to every body that all hands were to go on board on the monday morning & that the ship would sail in a day or 2, there was reason to think that these 2 Men intended to stay behind, However I was willing to wait one day to see ifthey would return before I took any steps to find them. MONDAY 10<1th.>1 The 2 Marines not returning this morning I began to enquire after them & was inform'd by some of the Natives that they were gone to the Mountains & that they had got each of them a [115 Wife & would not return, but at the same time no one would give us any Certain intelligence] where they were, upon which a resolution was taken to seize upon as many of the Chiefs as we could, this was thought to be the readiest method to induce the other natives to produce the two men. We had in our Custody Obarea, Toobour- atomita, and two other Chiefs but as I know'd that Tootaha would have more weight with the Natives then all these put together, I dispatch'd Lieutt Hicks away in the Pinnace to the place where Tootaha was to endeavour to decoy him into the boat and bring him on board which Mr Hicks perform'd without the least disturbance. We had no sooner taken the other Chiefs into Custody in Mr Banks's Tent than they became as desireous of having the men broug as they were before of keeping them, and only desire'd that one of our people might be sent with some of theirs for them; accordingly I sent a Petty Officers and the Corporal of Marines with three or four of their people not doubting but what they would return with the two Men in the evening, but, they not coming so soon as I expected I took all the Chiefs on board the Ship for greater safety. About 9 oClock in the evening Web the Marine was brought in by some of the Natives and sent on board, he inform'd me that the Petty officer & the Corporal that had been sent in quest of them were disarm'd and seiz'd upon by the Natives and that Gibson was with them. Im- midiatly upon geting this information I dispatch'd Mr Hicks away in the Long boat with a Strong party of men to resque them but before he went, Tootaha and the other Chiefs was made to understand that they must send some of their people with Mr Hicks to shew him the place where our men were, and at the same time to send orders for their immidiate releasement for if any harm came to these men they, the Chiefs, would suffer for it, and I believe at this time they wished as much to see the Men return in safty as I did, for the guides conducted Mr Hicks to the place before daylight and he recover'd the men without the least opposission and return'd with them about 7 oClock in the Morning of TUESDAY 11<1th.>1 I then told the Chiefs that there remaind nothing more to be done to regain their liberty but to deliver up the Arms the people had taken from the petty Officer and Corporal and these were brought on board in less then half an hour and then I sent them all a Shore, they made but a short stay with our people there before they went away and most of the Natives with them but they first wanted to have given us four Hogs, these we refus'd to accept as 116] they would take no thing for them.s Thus we are likly to leave these people in disgust with our behavour towards them, owing wholy to the folly of two of our own peoplesfor it doth not appear that the natives had any hand in inticeing them away and therefore were not the first agressors, however it is very certain that had we not taken this step we never should have recover'd them. The Petty officer whom I sent in quest of the deserters told me that the Natives would give him no intellingence where they were nor those that went along with him, but on the contrary grew very troblesome and as they were returning in the evening they were suddenly Siezed upon by a number of arm'd men that had hid them- selves in the woods for that purpose; this was after Tootaha had been seized upon by us so that they did this by way of retaliation in order to recover their Chief, but this method did not meet with the appro- bation of them all, a great many condem'd these proceedings and were for having them set at liberty, while others were for keeping them untill Tootaha was relase'd. The desputes went so far that they came from words to blowes and our people were several times very near being set at libertys but at last the party for keeping them pre- vail'd; but as they had still some freinds no insult was offer'd them; a little while after they brought Web and Gibson the two deserters to them as prisoners likwise but at last they agree'd that Web should be sent to inform us where the others were. When I came to examine these two men touching the reasons that induce'd them to go away, it appear'd that an acquentence they had contracted with two Girls and to whome they had stron[g]ly attache'd themselves was the sole reason of their attempting to Stay behind. Yesterday we weigh'd the small bower Anchor the Stock of which was so much eaten by the worms as to break in heaving up and to day we hove up the best bower and found the Stock in the very same Condition.s This day we got every thing off from the shore and to night every body lays on board. WEDNESDAY 12<1th.>1 The Carpenters Empd Stocking the Anchors and the Seamen in geting the Ship ready for sea; this morning we found the Staves of the Cask the Natives stole from us some time ago laying at the watering place, but they had been sencible enough to keep the Iron Hoops and only return what to them was of no use. [117 THURSDAY 13<1th.>1 Winds Easterly a light breeze. This morning we was1 viseted by Obarea and several others of our acquaintances, a thing we did not expect after what had happend but two days ago; but this was in some measure owing to Mr Banks Dr Solander and my self going to Apparra last night where we so far convinced them of our friendly disposission that several of them were in tears at our comeing away. Between a 11 and 12 oClock we got under sail and took our final leave of this people after a stay ofjust Three Month, the most part of which time we have been upon good terms with them: some few differences have now and than happen'd, owing partly to the want of rightly understanding one anothers and partly to their natural thievish disposission which we could not at all times, neither bear with or guard against, but these have been attended with no ill concequences to either side except the first in which one of them was kill'd, and this I was very sorry for because from what had happen'd to them by the Dolphin I thought it would have been no hard matter to have got and kept a footing with them without bloodshed. For some time before we left this Island several of the natives were daily offering themselves to go away with us, and as it was thought that they must be of use to us in our future discoveries, we resolved to bring away one whose name is <1Tupia,>1 a Cheif and a Priest: This man had been with us the most part of the time we had been upon the Island which gave us an oppertunity to know some thing of him: we found him to be a very intelligent person and to know more of the Geography of the Islands situated in these seas,s their produce and the religion laws and customs of the inhabitants then any one we had met with and was the likeliest person to answer our purpose; for these reasons and at the request of Mr Banks I received him on board together with a you[n]g boy his servant.s 118] For the first two months we were at this Island the Natives supply'd us with as much Bread fruit Cocoa-nutts &ca as we could well despence with, and now and then a few Hogs but of these hardly sufficient to give the Ships Compney one and some times two fresh meals a Week. As to fowles I did not see above 3 Dzn upon the whole Islands and fish they seldom would part with,s but during the last month we got very little refreshments of any sort, the detain[in]g their canoes broke off trade at that time and it never after was begun again with any spiret. However it was not wholy owing to this but to a scarcity; the season for bread fruit was wholy over and what other fruits they had were hardly sufficent for themselves, at least they did not care to part with them. All sorts of fruits we purchased for Beeds, and Nails not less then 4od penny for a nail under that size was of no Value; but we could not get a Hog above 1o or 12 pounds weight for any thing less than a Hatchet, not but what they set great Value upon spike Nails but as this was an article many in the Ship were provided with the women soon found a much easier way of comeing at them than by bringing provisions. Our trafick with this people was carried on with as much order as in the best regulated market in Europe, it was managed a shore chiefly by Mr Banks who took uncommon pains to procure from the natives every kind of refreshments that was to be got. Axes, Hatchets, Spikes, large Nails, Looking-glasses K[n]ives, and Beeds are all highly Valued by this people and nothing more is wanting to trafick with them for every thing they have to dispose off: they are likewise very fond of fine Linnen Cloth both white and printed, but an Ax worth half a Crown will fetch more than a peice of Cloth worth twenty Shillings. Description of King Georges Island This Island is called by the Natives <1Otaheite>1s and was first discover'd by Captain Wallices in His Majestys Ship Dolphin on the 19th of June 1767, and to the credit of him and his officers the Longd of Royl Bay was settled by them to within half a degree of the truth and the whole [119 figure of the Island not ill described.s It is situated between the Latitudes of 17o29' and 17o53' South and between the Longitudes of 149o10' and 149o39' West from the Meridian of Greenwich.s Point Venus, so called from the Observation being made there is the northern extremety of the Island and lies in the Longitude of 149o30 being the mean result of a great number of observations made upon the spot.s The Shores of this Island are mostly guarded from the Sea by reefs of Coral rocks and these form several excellent Bays and Harbours wherein are room and depth of water sufficient for the largest Ships. Royal Bay called by the natives Matavie in which we lay and the Dolphin before us is not inferior to any on the Island both in point of conveniencey and situation, it may easily be known by a prodigious high mountains in the middle of the Island which bears due south from Point Venus which is the eastern point of the bay. To sail into it either keep the west point of the reef which lies before point Venus close on board, or give it a birth of near half a mile in order to avoide a small shoal of Coral Rockss whereon is but 21/2 fathom water; the best anchoring is on the eastern side of the Bay in 16 or 14 fathom water an owsey bottom, the shore of the bay is all a fine sandy beach behind which runs a river of fresh water so that any number of Ships might water here without discommodeing one another. The only wood for fual upon the whole Island is fruit trees and these must be purchased of the natives if you mean to keep upon good terms with them. There are some harbours to the westward of this bay that have not been mentioned but as they lay contigious to it and are to be found in the plan a description of them is unnecessary.s The land of this Island except what is emmidiatly bordering upon the Sea Coast is of a very uneven Surface and riseth in ridges which run up into the middle of the Island, and there form mountains that 120] are of a height sufficient to be seen at the distance of 20 Leagues. Between the foot of the ridges and the sea is a border of low land surrounding the whole Island, except in a few places where the ridges rise directly from the Sea, this low land is of various breadths but no where exceeds a mile and a half; the soil is rich and fertile being for the most part well stocked with fruit trees and small plantations and well water'd by a number of small rivulets of excellent water which come from the adjacent hills. It is upon this low land that the greatest part of the inhabitants live, not in towns or Villages but dispersed every where round the whole Island.s The tops of most of the ridges and mountains are barren and as it were burnt up with the sun, yet many parts of some of them are not without their produce and many of the Vallies are fertile and inhabited. The produce of this Island is Bread fruit's cocoa-nuts, Bananoes, Plantains,s a fruit like an apple,s sweet Potatoes,s yams,s a fruit known by the name of Eag melloas and reckond most delicous, Sugar cane [121 which the inhabitants eat raw, a root of the Salop kind call'd by inhabitants Pea,s the root also of a plant call'd Ethees and a fruit in a Pod like a Kidney bean which when roasted eats like a chestnut and is call'd Ahee,s the fruit of a tree which they call wharras som like a Pine Apple, the fruit of a tree call'd by them Nano,s the roots of a Ferns and the roots of a Plant call'd Theve.s All these articles the Earth almost spontaniously produces or at least they are rais'd with very little labour, in the article of food these people may almost be said to be ex- empt from the curse of our fore fathers; scarcely can it be said that they earn their bread with the sweet of their brow, benevolent nature hath not only supply'd them with necessarys but with abundance of super- fluities. The sea coast supplies them with vast variety of most excellent fish but these they get not without some trouble and perseverance, fish seems to be one of their greatest luxuries and they eat it either raw or dress'd and seem to relish it one way as well as the other, not only fish but almost every thing that comes out of the sea is eat and esteem'd by these people. Shell fish Lobsterss Crabs and even Sea Insectss and what is commonly call'd Blubberss of many kinds conduce to their support. For tame Animals they have Hogs Fowls 122] and Dogs the latter of which we learnd to eat from them and few were there of us but what allowe'd that a South Sea Dog was next to an English Lamb, one thing in their favour is that they live intirely upon Vegetables probably our Dogs would not eat half so well, little can be said in favour of their fowles but their Pork is most excellent. They have no Beasts of prey of any sort and wild fowle are scarce and confind to a few specious. When any of the Chiefs kill a Hog it seems to be almost equaly divided among all his dependands and as these are generaly very numerous it is but a little that comes to each persons share, so that their chief food is Vegetables and of these they eat a large quantity. Cookery seems to have been but little studied, here they have only two methods of applying fire, broiling and Baking as we call'd it, the method this is done I have before described and I am of opinion that Victuals dress'd this way are more juicy and more equally done than by any of our methods, large fish in particular, Bread fruit, Bananoes and Plantains Cook'd this way eats like boild Potatoes and was used by us by way of bread when ever we could get them. Of bread fruit they make two or three dishes by beating it with a stone pestil till it makes a paste mixing water or cocoa nut liquor or both with it and adding ripe plantains bananoes Sour paste &ca, this last is made from bread fruit in the following manner. This fruit from what I can find remains in season only 8 or 9 months in the year and as it is the chief support of the inhabitants a reserve of food must be made for those months when they are without it; to do this the fruit is gather'd when upon the point of ripening, after the rinde is scraped off it is laid in heaps and cover'd close with leaves where it undergoes a fermentation and becomes soft and disagreably sweet, the core is then taken out and the rest of the fruit thrown into a hole dug for that purpose the sides and bottom of which are neatly laid with grass, the whole is cover'd with leaves and heavy stones laid upon them; here it under goes a second fermentaition and becomes sourish in which condition they say it will keep good 10 or 12 Months, as they want to use it they make it into balls which they wrap up in leaves and bake in the same manner as they do the fruit from the tree, it is then ready for eating either hot or cold and hath a sour and disagreable taste. In this last state it will keep good a Month or six Weeks, it is calld by them Mahais and they seldom make a meal without some of it one way or another. To this plain diat salt water is the Universal sauce, hardly any one sits down to a meal without a cocoa nut shell full of it standing by them into which they dip most of what they eat especialy fish, drinking at [123 intervals large supps of it out of their hands, so that a man may use half a pint at a Meal. It is not common for any two to eat together, the better sort hardly ever and the women never upon any account eat with the men but always by themselves. What can be the reason of so un- usual a Custom it is hard to say especialy as they are a people in every other instance fond of Socity and much so of their women; they were often asked the reason but they never gave no other answer but that they did it because it was right and express'd much dislike at the custom of men and women eating together of the Same Victuals. We have often use'd all the intreatys we were masters of to invite the women to partake of our victuals at our tables but there never was an instance of one of them doing it,s but they would offten go five or six together into the servants apartments and their eat very heartaly of what ever they could find nor were they the last disturb'd if any of us came in while they were dining, and it hath some times happend that when a woman was alone in our company she would eat with us but always took [care]s that her country people should not know what she had done, so that whatever may be the reason for this custom it certainly affects their outward manners more than their principals. With respect to their persons the men in general are tall, strong limb'd and well shaped, one of the tallest we saw measured Six feet 3 Inches and a half, the superior women are in every respect as large as Europeans but the inferior sort are in general small owing possibbly to their early amours which they are more addicted to then their superiors. They are of various colours, those of the inferior soryrt who are obliged to be much exposed to the sun and air are of brown, the Superiors again who spend most of their time in thier Houses or under shelter are not browner than people who are born or reside long in the West Indias nay some of the women are almost as fair as Europeans.s Their hair is almost universaly black thick and strong this the women wear short cropt round their ears, the men on the other hand wear it different ways, the better sort let it grow long and sometimes tying it up on the top of their heads or leting it hang loose over their shoulders but many of the inferiors and such w[h]o in the excersi[se] of their profession fishing &ca are obliged to be much 124] upon or in the water wear it cropt short like the women. They always pluck out a part of their beards and keep that that remains neat and clean. Both sexes eradicate every hair from under their armpits and look upon it as a mark of uncleanliness in us that we do not do the same. They have all fine white teeth and for the most part short flat noses and thick lips, yet their features are agreable and their gate gracefull, and their behavour to strangers and to each other is open affable and courtious and from all I could see free from threachery, only that they are theives to a Man and would steal but everything that came in their way and that with such dexterity as would shame the most noted pickbockets in Europe. They are a very cleanly people both in their persons and diat always washing their hands and mouth immidiatly before and after their meals and wash or bathe themselves in fresh water three times a day, morning noon night, the only disagreable thing about them is the oyle with which they anoint their heads <1Monoe>1s as they call it, this is made of cocoanut oyle in which some sweet earbs or flowers are infused the oyle is generaly very rancid which makes the wearer of it smell not very agreable. Another custom they have that is disagreable to Europeans which is eating lice a pretty good stock of which they generaly carry about them; however this Custom is not universal for I seldom saw it done but among children and common people and I am persuaded that had they the means they would keep themselves as free from lice as we do, but the want of Combs in a hot climate makes this hardly possible. There are some very few men upon this Island whose skins were whiter than any Europeans, but of a dead colour like that of the nose of [a] white horse, their Eyes, eyebrows, hair and beards were also white, their bodies were cover'd more or less with a kind of white down, their skins are spotted some parts being much whiter than others, they are short sighted with their eyes often full of rheum and always look'd unwholesome and have neither the spirit or activity of the other natives. I did not see above three or four upon the whole Island and these were old men so that I concluded that this difference of Colour &ca was accidental and did not run in families for if it did they must have been more numerous.s The inhabitants of this Island are troubled with a sort of Leprosie or scab all over their bodies, I have seen men women and children, but not many, who have had [125 this distemper to that degree as not to be able to walk; this distemper I believe runs in familys because I have seen both Mother and child have it.s Both sexes paint their bodys <1Tattow>1 as it is called in their language, this is done by inlaying the Colour of black under their skins in such a manner as to be indelible. Some have ill design'd figures of men birds or dogs, the women generaly have this figure Z simply on ever[y] joint of their fingures and toes, the men have it like wise and both have other defferent figures such as circles crescents &ca which they have on their Arms and legs. In short they are so various in the application of these figures that both the quantity and situation of them seem to depend intirely upon the humour of each individual, yet all agree in having all their buttocks cover'd with a deep black, over this most have arches drawn one over a[n]other as high as their short ribs which are near a quarter of an Inch broad; these arches seem to be their great pride as both men and women show t great pleasure. Their method of Tattowing I shall now describe- The Coulour they use is lamp black prepared from the smook of a kind of Oily nutts used by them instead of Candles; the Instruments for pricking it under the skin is made of very thin flat pieces of [b]one or shell, from a quarter of an Inch to an Inch and a half broad ac- cording to the purpose it is to be use'd for and about an inch and a half long, one end is cut into sharp teeth and the other fasten'd to a handle; the teeth are diped into the black liquor and then drove by quick sharp blows struck upon the handle with a stick for that purpose into the skin so deep that every stroke is followed [with] a small quantity of blood, the part so marked remains sore for some days before it heals. As this is a painfull operation especially the tattowing thier buttocks it is perform'd but once in their life time, it is never done untill they are 12 or 14 years of age.s Their cloathing are either of Cloth or matting of several differen[t] sorts the dress of both men and women are much the same which is a peice of Cloth or Matting wraped two or three times round their waist and hangs down below their knees both behind and before like a peticoat,s another peice or sometimes two or three, about 2 yards or 21/2 yards long with a hole in the middle thro which they put their 126] heads, this hangs over their shoulders down behind and before and is tied round their waist with a long peice of thin Cloth and being open at the sides gives free liberty to their arms.s This is the Common dress of all ranks of people and there are few without such a one except the Children who go quite naked the boys untill they are Six or Seven years of Age and the girls untill 3 or 4, at these ages they begin to cover what nature teaches them to hide. Besides the dress I have mentioned some of the better sort such as can afford it but more especialy the women will one way or a nother wrap round them several peices of cloth each 8 or 10 yards long and 2 or 3 broad, so much that I have often wonder'd how they could bear it in so hot a climit. Again on the other hand many of the inferior sort during the heat of the day go almost naked, the women wearing nothing but the petticoat before mentioned and sometimes hardly that, the men wear a peice of Cloth like a Sash which goes between their thighs and brought up before and behind and then wraped round their waist;s this every man always wears without exception and it is no un- common thing to see many of the better sort have nothing else on as it is reckon'd no shame for any part of the body to be exposed to view except those which all man kind hide. Both sexes Sometimes shade their faces from the Sun with little bonnets made of cocoanut leaves, some have them of fine matting but this is less common, they some- times wear Turbands but their chief head dress is what they call <1Tamou>1 which is human hair platted scarce thicker than common threed;s of this I can safely affirm that I have seen peices near a Mile in length work'd upon one end without a knott, these are made and wore only by the the women, five or six such peices of which they will some times wind round their headd the effect of which if done with taist is very becoming. They have earrings by way of orniment but wear them only at one ear, these are made of Shells, Stones, berries, red pease and some small pearls which they wear three tied together but our Beeds, Buttons, &ca very soon supply'd their places. After their meals and in the heat of the day they often sleep middle aged people especialy, the better sort of whom seem to spend most of their time in eating and sleeping. Diversions they have but few. Shooting with the Bow and Wristling are the chief the first of which is confined almost wholy to the Chiefs; they shoot for distance only kneeling upon one knee and dropping the bow at the instant of the arrows parting from it, I have seen one of them shoot an arrow 274 [127 yards yet he look'd upon it as no great shott.s Musick is little known to them and yet they are very fond of it, they have only two Instru- ments the flute and the drum, the former is made of hollow bamboo about 15 Inches long in which are 3 holes, in to one of them they blow with one nostril stoping the other with the thum of the left hand, the other two holes they stop and unstop with their fingers and by this means produce four notes of which they have made one tune which serves them upon all occasions, to which they sing a number of songs generaly consisting of two lines and generaly in rhime.s At any time of the day when they are lazy they amuse themselves by singing these couplets but especialy after dark when their candles are lighted which are made of the kernels of a nut abounding much in oyle, these are stuck upon a skewer of wood one upon a nother and give a very tolerable light which they often keep burning an hour after dark and if they have strangers in the house much longer.s Their drumms are made of a hollow black woods coverd with Sharks skin and instead of drum sticks they use their hands, of these they make out 5 or 6 tunes and accompany the fluits. The drums are chiefly used at their <1Heivas>1 which are a set of musicians 2 or 3 drums for 1 as many fluits and singers, which go about from house to house and play and are always received and rewarded by the Master of the family who gives them a peice of Cloth or what ever he can spare, for which they will stay three or four hours during which time his house will be crowded full for the people are extravagently fond of this diversion. The young girls when ever they can collect 8 or 10 together dance a very indecent dance which they call <1Timorodee>1s singing most indecent songs and useing most indecent actions in the pratice of which they are brought up from their earlyest Childhood, in doing this they keep time to a great nicety; this exercise is however generaly left of as soon as they arrive at years of maturity for as soon as they have form'd a connection with man they are expected to leave of dancing <1Timorodee.>1 One amusement or Custom more I must mention 128] tho I must confess I do not expect to be believed as it is founded upon a Custom so inhuman and contrary to the first principals of human nature: it is this, that more than one half of the better sort of the inhabitants have enter'd into a resolution of injoying free liberty in love without being troubled or disturbed by its concequences; these mix and cohabit together with the utmost freedom and the Children who are so unfortunate as to be thus begot are smother'd at the moment of their birth; many of these people contract intimacies and live together as Man and wife for years in the Course of which the Children that are born are destroy'd. They are so far from concealing it that they rather look upon it as a branch of freedom upon which they value themselves. They are call'd <1Arreoy's>1s and have meetings among themselves where the men amuse themselves with wristling &ca and the women in dancing the indecent dance before mentioned, in the Course of which they give full liberty to their desires but I believe keep up to the appearence of decency. I never saw one of these meetings. Dr Munkhouse saw part of one enough to make him give credit to what we had been told. Both sexes express the most indecent ideas in conversation without the least emotion and they delight in such conversation behond any other. Chastity indeed is but little Valued especialy among the middle people, if a wife is found guilty of a breach of it her only punishment is a beating from her husband; the men will very readily offer the young women to strangers even their own daughters and think it very strange if you refuse them but this is done meerly for the lucre ofgain. The Houses or dwellings of these people are admirably calculated for the continual warmth of the climate, they do not build them in Towns or Villiges but seperate each from the other and always in the woods and are without walls so that the air coold by the shade of the trees has free access in whatever direction it happens to blow, no country can bost of more delightfull walks than this; the whole plains where the natives reside are cover'd with groves of Bread fruit and Cocoa nut trees without under wood and intersected in all directions by the paths which go from house to house, so that nothing can be more gratefull in a Climate where the sun hath so powerfull an influance. They are generaly built in form of an Oblong square the roofs are supported by three rows of pillors or posts and neatly cover'd with thatch made of palm leaves,s a middle sized house is about 24 feet by 12 extreme height 8 or 9 and height of the eves 31/2 [129 or 4, the flowerss are coverd some Inches deep with hay upon which here and there lay matts for the conveniency of seting down, few houses has more than one stool which is only used by the Master of the family. In their houses are neither rooms or partitions but they all huddle and sleep to gether yet in this they generaly observe some order, the married people laying by themselves and the un- married each sex by themselves at some small distance from each other. Many of the <1Eares,>1 or Chiefs are more private having small move- able housessin which they sleep man and wife which when they go by water from place to place are tied upon their canoes, these have walls made of Cocoa-nut leaves & ca. I have said that the houses are without walls but this is only to be understood in general for many of them are wall'd with wickerdings but not so Close but to admit a free circulation of air. The matts which serves them to set upon in the day time is also their bed in the night and the clothes they wear in the day serves for covering, a little wooden stool block of wood or bundle of cloth for a pillow. Besides these common houses there are others much larger 2oo feet long and upwards 30 broad and 20 in height. There are generaly two or three of these in every district and seem'd not only built for the accommodation of the principal people but common to all the in- habitants of that districts and raised and kept up by their joint labour; these are always without walls and have generaly a large area on one side neatly inclosed with low pallisades &ca. <1Their Canoes>1 or <1Proes>1s are built all of them very narrow and some of the largest are 60 or 70 feet long; these co[n]sist of several peices, the bottom is round and made of large logs hollowed out to the thickness of about 3 Inches and may consist of three or four peices, the sides are of plank of nearly the same thickness and are built nearly perpendicular rounding in a little towards the gunwale,s the peices in which they are built are well fited and fasten'd or sew'd together 130] with strong platting something in the same manner as old China wooden bowls &ca are mended. The greatest breadth is at the after part which is generaly about 18 or 20 Inches and the fore part about 1/3 narrower, the height from the bottom to the gunwale seldom exceeds 21/2 or 3 feet, they build them with high curv'd stems which are generaly ornimented with carved work, the head or fore part curves little or nothing. The smaller Canoes are built after the same Plan some out of one, two or more trees according to their size or the use they are for. In order to prevent them from overseting when in the water all those that go single both great and small have what is call'd outriggers which are peices of wood fasten'd to the gunel and project out on one side about 6, 8 or 1o feet according to the size of the boat; at the ends is fastend in a parallel direction to the Canoe a long log of wood simply, or some have it shaped into the form of a small boat but this is not common, this lays in the water & ballanceth the boat: those that are for sailing have outriggers only on the other side abreast of the mast, these serve to fasten the shrouds to and are of use in trimming the boat when it blows fresh. The sailing Proes have some one and some two masts, the sails are off Matting and are made narrow at the head and square at the foot something like a shoulder of Mutton Sail, & generally used on Man of War Barges &cas I have mentioned above that the single Canoes have outriggers for those that go double that is two together, which is very common, have no need of any and it is done in this manner: two Canoes are placed in a parallel direction to each other about three or four feet asunder securing them together by small logs of wood laid aCross and lashed to each of their gunels, thus the one boat supports the other and are not in the least danger of over seting and I beleive that it is in this manner that all their large Proes are use'd, some of which will carry a great number of men by means of a platform made of bamboos or other light wood the whole length of the Proes and considerably broader, but I never saw but one fited in this manner upon the whole Island. Upon the fore part of all these large double Proes was placed an oblong platform about 10 or 12 feetin length and 6 or 8 in breadth, and supported about 4 feet above the Gunels by stout carved pillors: the use of these platforms as we were told are for the Club men to stand and fight upon in time of battle, for the large Canoes from what I could learn are built mostly if not wholy for war and their method of fighting is to graple one a nother and fight it out with Clubs, spears & stones. I never saw but one of these sort of Canoes in the water the [131 rest were all hauld a shore and seem'd to be going to decay neither were they very many of them upon the Island. The Chiefs and better sort of people generaly go from one place of the Island to a nother in small double Canoes which carry a little moveable house, this not only screens them from the Sun by day but serves them to sleep in in the night and this way of traveling is extreamly commodious about such Islands as are inclosed by a reef as this is, for as these canoes draw but little water they can always keep within the reefs and by that means are never in danger. The[y] have some few other Canoes, <1Pahee's>1 as they call them, which differ from those above discribed, but of these I saw but six upon the whole Island and was told that they were not built here,s the two largest was each 76 feet long and when they had been in use had been fasten'd together, these are built sharp and narrow at both ends and broad in the middle, the bottom is likewise sharp inclining to a wedge, yet bildges out very much and rounds in again very quick just below the gunwale. They are built of several peices of thick plank and put together as the others are only these have timbers in the inside which the others have not, they have high curved sterns the head also curves a little and both are ornmented with the image of a Man carved in wood, very little inferior work of the like kind done by common ship carvers in England. When one considers the tools these people have to work with one cannot help but admire their work- manship, these are Adzes and small hatchets made of a hard stone, Chisels or gouges made of human bones, generaly the bone of the fore arm, but spike nails have pretty well supplied the place of these, with these ordinary tools that a European workman would expect to break the first stroke I have seen them work surprisingly fast; to plane or polish their work they rub upon it with a smooth stoene, Coral beat small and mixt with water, this is somets scraping it with shells with which alone they perform most of their small woodwork. Their Proes or Canoes large and small are rowed and steer'd with paddles and notwithstanding the large ones appear to be very unwieldy they manage them very dextrusly and I beleive perform long and distant Voyages in them, otherwise they could not have the knowlidge of the Islands in these seass they seem to have. They wear 132] for shew or or[n]ament at the Mast heads of most of their sailing canoes Pendants made of feathers. Having described their fighting Canoes I shall next describe the Arm[s]s with which they attack their enemies both by sea and land, these are Clubs, spears or Lances, Slings, and stones which they throw by the hand, the Clubs are made of a hard woods and are about 8 or 9 feet long, the one half is made flatish with two edges and the other half is round and not thicker than to be easily grasped by the hand; the lances are of various length some from 12, 20 or 30 feet and are generaly arm'ds at the small end with the stings of sting- rays which makes them very dangerous weapons. Altho these people have bows and arrow[s] and those none of the worst, we are told that they never use them in their wars which doubtless is very extra- ordinary and not easily accounted for:s they have very curious breast plates made of small wickers pieces of matting &ca and nea[t]ly cover'd with sharks teeth, pearl oysters Shells, birds feathers & dogs hair. Thus much for their arms &ca. I [s]hall now describe their method of makeing cloth, which in my opinion is the only curious manufacture they have, all their cloth is I beleive made from the bark of trees, the finest is made from a plan[t] which they cul[t]ivate for no other purpose,s Dr Solander thinks it is the same plant the bark of which the Chinese make paper of. They let this plant grow till it is about six or eight feet high the stem is than about as thick as ones thum or thicker, after this they cut it down and lay it a certain time in water, this makes the bark strip easy off the out side of which is than scraped off with a rough shell, after this is done it looks like long strips of raged linnen. These they lay together, by means of a fine paste made of some sort of a root,s to the breadth of a yard more or less and in length Six, Eight or ten yards or more according to the use it is for, after it is thus put together it is beat out to its proper breadth and fineness upon a long square piece of wood with wooden beaters the cloth being kept wet all the time; the beaters are made of hard wood with four square sides and about a foot long including the handle which is round, each of the square sides are [133 about 3 or 4 inches broad and cut into grooves of different fineness this makes the Cloth look at first sight as if it was wove with threed; but I believe the principal use of the grooves is to facilitate yhe beating it outs in the doing of which they often beat holes in it or one place thiner than another, but this is easy repaird by pasting on small bits and this they do in such a manner that the cloth is not in the least injured. The finest sort when bleached is very white and coms nearest to fine Cotton. Thick cloth especialy fine is made by pasting two or more thickness's of thin cloth made for that purpose together. Course thick cloth and ordinary thin cloth is made of the bark of the bread fruit tree and I think I have been told that it is sometimes made from the bark of other trees. The making of Cloth is wholy the work of the women in which all ranks are employ'd, their common Colours are red, brow[n] and yellow with which they dye some peices just as their fancy leads them; besides Cloth they make several different sorts of matting both better and finer than any we have in Europe, the stuff they make it on is the produce ofthe palm tree.s This Island produceth 2 or 3 sorts of Plants of which they make the rope they use in riging their Canoes &ca the finest sort such as fishing lines, Saine lines &ca is made of the bark of a tree and some from a kind of silk grass,stheir fishing line & Saines are in point of goodness preferable to any of ours, their fishing hooks are very curiously made of Tortoise, Pearl Oyster shells &ca. They have a sort of a saine that is made of course broad grass like flags,s these are twisted and tied together in a loose manner untill the whole is as thick [as] a large sack and 6o or 8o fathom long this they haul in shoald smooth water, its own weight keeps it so close to ye ground that hardly the smallest fish can escape it. I have before mentioned that this Island is divided into two districts or Kingdoms which are frequently at war with each other as hap- pend about twelve Months ago, and each of these is again divided into smaller districts, <1Whennuas>1 as they Call them, over each of the Kingdoms is an <1Eare dehi>1 or head whome we call a King and in the <1Whannuas>1 are <1Eares>1 or Chiefs. The Kings power seems to be but very little, he may be reverenced as a father but he his neither fear'd nor 134] respected as a Monarch and the same may be said of the other Chiefs, however they have a preeminence over the rest of the people who pay them a kind of a volantry obedience. Upon the whole these people seem to injoy liberty in its fullest extend, every man seems to be the sole judge of his own actions and to know no punishment but death and this perhaps is never inflicted but upon a publick enimy. There are three Ranks of Men and women, first the <1Eares>1 or Chiefs, second the <1Manahoona's>1 or midling sort and lastly the <1Toutou's>1 which comprehends all the lower class and are by far the most numerous, these seem to live in some sort dependent on the <1Eares>1 who together with the Manahoona's own most of not all of the lands, this is hereditary in their families and the moment the heir is born he succeeds the father both in the title and estate: at least to the name for it is most likely that the latter must have the power during his Son or Daughters minority.s Having given the best account I can of the manners and Customs of these people, it will be expected that I should give some account of their Religion, which is a thing I have learnt so little of that I hardly dare touch upon it, and should have pass'd it over in silance was it not my duty as well as inclination to insert in this Journal every and the least knowledge I may obtain of a people who for many centuries have been shut up from almost every other part of the world. They believe that theer is one Supreme God whome they call s from him sprung a number ofinferior Deities <1Eatuas>1s as they call them, these they think preside over them and intermeddle in their affairs, to these they offer oblations such as Hogs, Dogs, Fish, Fruit &ca and invoke them on some particular occasions as in timess of real or apparrent danger, the seting out of a long Voyage sickness &ca but the ceremonies made use on these occasions I know not. The Mories which we at first thought were berryings places are wholy [135 built for places of worship and for the performing of religious cere- mo[n]ies in.s The Viands are laid upon Altars erected 8, 10 or 12 [feet] high by stout posts and the table of the Altar on which the is generaly made of Palm leaves, they are not always in the Mories but very often at some distance from them: their Mories as well as the tombs of the dead they seem to hold sacred and the womens never enter the former whatever they may do the latter. The Viands laid near the tombs of the dead are from what I can learn not for the deceased but as an offering to the <1Eatua>1 made upon that occasion, who if not would distroy the body and not except of the Soul for they believe of a future state of rewards and punishments, but what their ideas are of it I know not. We have seen in some few places small houses set apart on purpose for the reception of the oblations offer'd to the <1Eatua>1 which consists in small strips of Cloth Viands &ca. I am of opinion that they offer to the <1Eatua>1 a strip or small peice of every peice of cloth they make before they use it themselves and it is not unlikely but what they observe the same thing with respect to thier Victuals, but as there are but few of these houses this cannot be a common custom, it may only be observed by the priest and such families as are more regiliouss than others. Now I have mentioned preists, these are men who excerise that function of which number Tupia is one, they seem to be in no great repute niether can they live wholy by their profession and this leads me to think that these people are no bigots to their regelion. The priests on some occasions do the office of Physicions and their prescriptions consi[s]ts in per- forming some religious ceremony before the sick person, they likewise Crown the <1Eare dehi>1 or King in the performing of which we are told much form and ceremony is used after which every one is at liberty to treat and play as many tricks with the new King as he pleaseth during the remainder of the day.s There is a ceremony which they perform at or after the funerals of the dead which I had forgot to mention at the time we happend to see it. Some time before we left the Island an old woman an relation 136] of <1Tooboura Temidu>1s happend to die and was entar'd in the usual manner, for several successive evenings after one of her relations dress'd himself in a very odd dress which I cannot tell how to describe or to convey a better Idea of it than to suppose a man dress with Plumes of feathers something in the same manner as those worn by Coaches hearses, horses &ca at the funerals in London; it was very neatly made up of black or brown and white cloth black and white feathers and pearl oysteres shells, it coverd the head face and body as low as the Calf of the leg or lower and not only looked grand but awfull likewise. The man thus equip'd and attended by two or three more men or women with their faces and bodies besmeared with soot and a club in their hands would about sunset take a com- pass of near a mile runing here and there, and where ever they came the people would fly from them as tho they had been so many hobgoblins not one daring to come in their way. I know not the reason for their performing this ceremony which they call <1Heiva>1 a name they give to most of their divertisements.s They compute time by the moon which they call <1Malama>1s reckon- ing 30 days to each Moon, 2 of which they say the moon is <1Matte>1sthat is dead and this is at the time of new mo[o]n when she cannot be seen; the day they divide into smaller portions not less than two hours. Their computations is by units, tens and scores up to ten score or 200 &ca. In counting they generaly take hold of their fingers one by one shifting from the one hand to the other untill they come to the number they want to express but if it be a high number instead of their fingers they use peices [of] leaves &ca. In conversation one with another they frequently join signs to their words in which they are so expressive that a stranger will very soon comprehend their meaning by their actions. Having now done with the people I must once more return to the Island before I quet it altogether, which, notwithstanding nature hath been so very bountifull to it yet it doth not produce any one thing of intrinsick Value or that can be converted into an Article of trade, so that the value of the discovery consists wholy in the refresh- ments it will always afford to Shipping in their passage through those seas and in this it may be greatly improved by transporting hither horned cattle &ca. Pumpkins have got a footing here the seeds of [137 which most probably were brought hither by the spaniards. We sowed of the seeds of water and Musk mellons which grew up and throve very [well].s We also gave of these seeds and the seeds of Pine Aples to several of the natives and as it cannot be doubted but what they will thrive here and will be a great addition to the fruits they allready have. Upon our first arrival we sowed of all sorts of English garden seeds and grain but not a single thing came up except Mustard salled, but this I know was not owing either to the Soil or Climate but to the badness of the seeds which were spoild by the length of the passage.s Altho this Island lies within the Tropick of Capricorn yet the heat is not troublesome nor do the winds blow constantly from the east but are subject to variations, frequently blowing a fresh gale from the sw quarter for two or three days together, but very seldome from the Nw. When ever these variable winds happen they are always accom- paned with a swell from the sw or wsw and the same thing happens when ever it is calm, and the Atmosphere at the same time loaded with clowds, sure indicationss that the winds are variable or westerly out at sea for clear weather generaly attend[s] the settle[d] trade. The meeting with Westerly winds within the general limets of the easterly trade is a little extraordinary, and has induced former navigators when they met with them to think that they were caused by the nearness of some large track of land but I rather think that they are owing to a nother cause; it hath been found both by the dolphin and us that the trade wind in those parts of this sea doth not extend farther to the South than 20o and without which we generaly met with a wind from the westward; now is it not reasonable to sup- pose that when these winds blow strong they must incroach upon and drive back the easterly winds and so cause the variable winds and swterly Swell I have been speaking of: it is well known that the trade winds blow but faint for some distance within their limets and are therefore easily stop'd by a wind from the contrary direction. It is likewise known that these limets are subject to vary several degrees not only at different seasons of the year but at one and the same season; another reason why I think that these sw winds are not caused by the nearness of any large track of land is their being always accompaned with a large swell from the same quarter, and we find a much greater surf beating upon the shores of the sw sides of the 138] Islands situated just within the limets of the trade winds than upon any other part of them. The <1Tides>1 are perhaps as inconsiderable in these Seas as in any part of the world, a South or sBw [Moon]s makes High-water in Royal Bay but the water doth not rise upon a perpendicular above 10 or 12 inches except on some very extraordinary occasions. The <1Variation of>1 <1the Compass I>1 found to be 4o46' Easterly, this being the mean result of a great number of trials made by four of Dr Knights needles belonging to the Azimuth Compassess all of which I judged to be good ones, and yet when applied to the Meridion line I found them not only differ one from a nother sometimes a degree and a half but the same needle would differ from it self more or less, the difference sometimes amountaning to half a degree both at the same time and on different days. This will in a great measure account for the seeming errors that upon a nice examination appears to have been made in observing the Variation inserted in the Course of this Journal. This Variableness in Magnetick needles I have many times and in many places expieranced both a shore and on board of Ships and I do not remember of ever finding two needles that would agree exactly to- gether at one and the same time and place, but I have often found the same needle agree with it self for several trials made emmidiatly one after a nother: However al this is of no sort of concequ[e]nce to navigation as the Variation of the compass can always be found to a degree of accuracy more than sufficient for all nautical purposes. I have before hinted that these people have an extensive knowlidge of the Islands situated in these seas, Tupia as well as several others hath given us an account of upwards of seventy, but as the account they have given of their situation is so vague and uncertain I shall refar giving a list of them untill I have learnt from Tupia the situation of each Island with a little more certainty.s Four of these Islands (viz) <1Huaheine, Ulietea, Otoha>1 and <1Bolabola>1 we were inform'd lay only one or two days sail to the westward of Georges Island and that we might there procure Hogs Fowls and other refreshments, articles that we had been very sparlys supply'd with at this last Island and as the Ships company, what from the constant hard duty they hads had at this place and the too free use of women were in a worse state of hilth then they were on our first arrival, for by this time full half of them had got the Venereal disease in which situation I thought they [139 would be ill able to stand the cold weather we might expect to meet with to the southward at this Season of the year, and therefore I resolved to give them a little time to recover while we run down to and exploar'd the Islands before mentioned.s Upon our arrival at Batavia we were informd the two French Ships a Frigate and a store Ship commanded by the Sieur de Bougainville touch'd at that place two years ago in their way home from the South Seas. We were here told many circumstances of these two Ships all tending to prove behond a doubt that they were the same as were at Georges Island some months before us which we then Judged to be Spaniards, being lead into this mistake by the Spanish Iron &ca we saw among the Natives, which is easy accounted for, for we are told that while Bougainville in the Frigate was delivering up that part of Faulkland Islands poses'd by the French, to the Spaniards which service we were told he was sent upon, the Store Ship was trading with the Spaniards in the River Plate where she disposed of all her European goods and purchas'd other to trade with the Islands in the South Seas. To confirm these last circumstances we were told that when they arrived at Batavia the Frigate had on board a great quantity of Spanish Dollars I think we were told also that they had been trading upon the Spanish M[a]in in the South Seas. Some days after our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope I was told by some French officers that were just come from the Island Mauritius that <1Orette>1 the Native of Georges Island which Sieur Bougainville brought away with him was now at the Maritius and that the French were fitting out a ship at that Island in order to carry him to his Native country and where they (the French) intend to make a settlement, a hundred Troops for that purpose were to go out in the same ship this account is confirm'd by a French Gentle- man. This Note to follow the discriptions of Ulietea &ca. Tupia informs us that in the Months of November, December and Janry they have constant Westerly winds with rain, and they know very will how to take the Advantage of these winds in their Navigations. Note. As we advance'd to the south ward into cold weather and a troubled sea, the Hogs we got at Ulietea began to die apace they cannot indure the least cold nor will they hardly eat any thing but 140] Vegetables so that they are not att all to be depended upon at Sea.s Remarkable Occurrences at Sea FRIDAY July 14<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at NE and clear weather. I have before made mention of our departure from Royal Bay on the pre- ceeding fore-noon, and like wise that I had determined to run down to <1Haheine>1 and <1Ulietea>1s before we stood to the southward, but haveing discover'd from the Hills of Georges Island an Island laying to the Northward, we first stood that way to take a nearer View of it (this Island is call'd <1Tethuroa)>1s it lies N1/2w distant 8 Leagues from point Venus and is a small low uninhabited Island frequented by the people of Georges Island for fish with which it is said to abound. At 6 AM the Westermost part of York Island Bore SE1/2S and the body of Georges Island E1/2S. Punished the two Marines, who attempted to desert from us at Georges Island, with 2 Dozn lashes each and then released them from confinement. At Noon the body of York Island bore EBS1/2S, Royal Bay S 70o 45' E distant 61 Miles and an Island which we took to be Saunders Island discover'd by Capt. Wallices (call'd by the Natives <1Tapoamanau)s>1 bore SSW. Latde Obd 17o9' South. Saw land bearing NW1/2W which Tupia calls the Island of <1Huaheine.>1 SATURDAY 15<1th.>1 Light Airs and Variables between the North and wsw, clear weather. At 6 pm York Island bore sE and Huaheine wNw and at 7 am it bore West. Latd observ'd at Noon 16o50' South. Royal Bay s 37o30' E Distant 22 leagues. SUNDAY 16<1th.>1 Winds at South and ssE a gentle breeze with some few showers of rain. At 6 PM the Island of Huaheine w1/2s Dist 7 or 8 Leagues. At 8 AM being close in with the Nw part of the Island sounded but had no ground with 8o fathoms, some of the Natives came off to the Ship but they were very shy of coming near untill they discover'd Tupia, but after that they came on board without hesitation, among those who came was the King of the Island whose [141 Name is <1Oree>1s he had not been long on board before he and I ex- change'd Names and we afterwards address'd each other accordingly. At Noon the North end of the Island bore sBE1/2E dist half a league Latd Obserd 16o40' s. Three other Islands in sight viz. <1Ulitea, Otaha,>1 and <1Bolabola,>1s so call'd by the Natives. MONDAY 1<17th.>1 Winds Southerly fine pleasent weather. At 3 PM Anchor'd in a small Harbour on the West side of the Island (call'd by the Native[s] <1Owharhe)>1s in 18 fathom water clear ground and secure from all winds; soon after I went a Shore, accompined by Mr Banks, Dr Solander and Dr Munkhouse, Tupia, the King of the Island and some other of the Natives who had been on board since the morning. The moment we landed Tupia striped him self as low as his waist and disired Mr Munkhouse to do the same, he then sat down before a great number of the natives that were collected together in a large Shade or house, the rest of us by his own desire standing behind; he then begun a long speach or prayer which lasted near a 1/4 of an hour and in the Course of this speach presented to the people two handker- chiefs, a black silk neckcloth, some beads and two very small bunches of feathers, these things he had before provided for this purpose, at the same time two Chiefs spoke on the other side in answer to Tupia as I suppose in behalf of the people and presented us with some young Plantain Plants and two small bunches of feathers. These were by Tupia order'd to be carried on board the Ship, after the Peace was thus concluded and ratified every one was at liberty to go where he pleased and the first thing Tupia did was to go and pay his oblations at one of the Maries. This seem'd to be a common ceremony with this people and I suppose always perform'd upon landing on each others Territories in a peaceable manner; it farther appear'd that the things which Tupia gave away was for the God of this peoples as they gave us a Hog and some Cocoa-nuts for our God, and thus they have certainly drawn us in to commit sacrilege for the Hog hath already received sentence of death and is to be dissected to morrow.s [143 AM. I set about surveying the Island and Dr Munkhouse with some hands went a shore to trade with the Natives, while the Long-boat was employ'd compleating our water. TUESDAY <118th.>1 Gentle breezes at s and ssw clear weather. The trading party had no success today, the Natives pretend that they have not had time to collect their provisions from the different parts of the Island, but that on the morrow we should have some and as I had not seen so much of the Island as I disired I resolved to stay one day longer to see if any thing was to be got. WEDNESDAY 19<1th.>1 PM Variable light airs and clear weather, the trading party had better Success to day then yesterday. AM A Gentle breeze at SE. As it was known to the natives that we intended to sail to day, Oree the Chief and several more came on board to take their leave of us, to the chief was given a small plate on which was stamp'd the following Inscription viz. <1His Britannick Maj. Ship Endeavour,>1 <1Lieut>1s <1Cook Commander>1 161 769. <1Huaheine.>1 This was accompanied>s with some Medals or Counters of the English coine struck 176I together with some other presents, all these but more particularly the plate the Cheif promised never to part with; this we thought would prove as lasting a Testimony of our having first discover'd this Island as any we could leave behind. After this was done they were dis- miss'd and w[e] begun to prepare to leave the place but as that falls out on the following day I shall conclude this with a discription of the Island, which is situated in the Latitude of 16o43' s and Longitude 150o 52' West from Greenwich and North 58o West distant 31 Leagues from King Georges Island or Otaheite. It is about 7 Leagues in compass and of a Hilly and uneven surface; it hath a safe and com- modious Harbour which lies on the west side under the northermost high land and within the north end of the reef which lays along that side of the Island; into this Harbour are two inlets or openings in the reef about <111/2>1 Mile from each other, the southermost is the broadest on the s side of which is a very small sandy Island. This Harbour is called by the natives Ohwarhe. The produce of this Island is in all respects the same as King Georges Island and the manners and customs of the inhabitants much 144] the same only that they are not addicted to stealing and with respect to Colour they are rather fairer than the natives of Georges Island and the whole more uniformly of one Colour. THURSDAY 20th. Moderate breezes at East and ENE fair weather. At 1/2 past 2 PM weigh'd and made sail for the Island of Ulietea which lies SWBW distant 7 or 8 Leagues from Huaheine, at 1/2 past 6 we were within 3 Leagues of it, then shorten'd sail and Stood off and on all night, and at day light made sail in shore and soon after discover'd an opening in the reef that lies along this side of the Island within which Tupia said was a good harbr. Upon this I hoisted out the Pinnace and sent the Master in to examine it who soon made the signal for the ship to follow, accordingly we stood in and anchor'd in 22 fathom soft ground: soon after we anchor'd some of the Natives came on board the Ship with very little invatation. FRIDAY 21st July. Winds Variable and dark clowdy weather with frequent Showers of rain. At <11>1 PM I landed in company with Mr Banks and the other Gentlemen, the first thing done was the per- forming of Tupia's ceremony in all respects as at Huaheine. I then hoisted an English jack and took posession of the Island & those adjacent in the name ofs His Britk Majestys, calling them by the same names as the Natives do. AM sent the Master in the Long-boat to examine the coast of the South part of the Island and one of the Mates in the yawl to sound the harbour where the Ship lay, while I was employ'd in the Pinnace surveying the northern part of the Island: and Mr Munkhouse went a shore to trade with the Natives for such refreshments as were to [be] got.s SATURDAY 22<1th>1 PM the wind Variable with showers of rain. AM Strong gales at south and hazey with rain and which continued the most part of SUNDAY 23<1rd>1. in so much that I did not think it safe to breake the Ship loose and put to sea as I intended. [145 MONDAY 24<1th>1. Winds Variable from ssE to NE. At 8 AM got under sail and Ply'd to the northward within the reef in order to go out at the northern channell, it being the broadest, but being little wind and meeting with Shoals we had not before discover'd we turn'd down but slowly. TUESDAY 25<1th>1. First part little wind at NE in the night calm, AM a fresh breeze at wNw fair weather. At 3 PM Anchor'd in 22 fathom water a Muddy bottom the North C [h]annels open bearing NE1/2E. At 5 AM a breeze sprung up at Nw, weigh'd and put to Sea and hauled to the Northward in order to take a View of the Island of <1Otaha>1 and <1Bolabola,>1 but before I proceed farther I shall describe the Harbour we have been in. This Harbour taken in its greatest extent is capable of holding any number of Shipping in perfect security as it extends al- most the whole length of this side of the Island and is defended from the sea by a reef of Coral rocks,s the southermost opening in this reef or C[h]annell into the Harbour, which is not more then a Cables length wide, is off the eastermost point of the Island and may be known by a small woody Island which lies a little to the SE of it;s between three and 4 Miles Nw from this Island, lies two other small Islandss and in the same direction as the reef of which they are a part between these two Islands is another Channels into the harbr that is a full 1/4 of a Mile broad, still further to the NW are some other small Islands where I am inform'd is another inlet, but this I did not see, but as to the other two we enter'd the harbour by the one and came out by the other. The principal refreshments we have got here consists in Plaintains, Cocoanuts, some Yams and a few Hogs and fouls; this side of the Island is neither populous nor rich in produce, if compaird to Georges Island, or even Huaheine. However here are no want of refreshments for a Ship who may put in here and stay but a short time and Wood and water may be got every w[h]ere, tho the latter is not very convenient to come at. WEDNESDAY 26<1th>1. Winds at WBN & WBS, but very variable towards the latter part. At 4 PM the North end of Ulietea s 75o West dist. 2 146] Leagues and the s end of Otaha N 77o West.s About a League to the Northward of the South end of Otaha on the East side of the Island a mile or more from the shore lies 2 small Islands; between these Islands Tupia says there is a chans into a very good harbour which lies within the reef and it had all the appearence of such.s Kept plying to windward all night without geting any ground. At Noon the Peek on Bolabola WBS. Lat. Obd 16o26'. THURSDAY 27<1th.>1 Variable light Airs of wind in the sw quarter and fair weather. Seeing that there is a broad Channell between Otaha and Bolabola I intend to go thro' that way and not run to the north- ward of all; but as the wind is right on end and very variable withall we get little or no ground. Between 5 and 6 oClock PM as we were standing to the Northward we discover'd a Small low Island lying NBW or NNW distant 4 or 5 Leagues from Bolabola, this Island is call'd <1Tubai.>1s Tupia says that it produceth nothing but a few Cocoa-nuts; that there are only three Families live upon it, but that the people from these Islands resort thither to catch fish. At Noon the Peak of <1Bolabola>1 bore N 25o West and the North end of <1Otaha>1 N 80o West distant 3 Leagues, Lat. Obd 16o38' South. FRIDAY 28<1th.>1 Little winds and Variable between the sw and Nw. At 6 AM being near the entrance of the Harbour which lies on the East side of Otaha, before mention'd, and finding that it might be ex- amined without looseing time, I sent away the Master in the Long- boat with orders to sound the Harbour and if the wind did not shift in our favour to land upon the Island and to traffick with the Natives for such refreshments as were to be got. Mr Banks and Dr Solander went along with him. SATURDAY 29<1th.>1 Little wind and Variable, kept plying on and off all this day waiting for the return ofthe Long boat--at 1/2 past 5 not seeing any thing of her fired a gun for her to return and as soon as it was dark hoistid a light. At 1/2 past eight heard the report of a Musquet which we answer'd with a gun and soon after the boat came on board with 3 small Hoggs, a few fouls and a large quantity of Plantains and some Yams; they found the Natives very Sociable and ready to part with any thing they had, and the Harbour safe and commodious with good Anchorage in 25, 2o and 16 fathom water clear ground. As soon as the boat was hoisted in we made sail to the Northward, and at 8 [147 oClock AM were close under the Peek of Bolabola, but as we could not weather the Island we Tack'd and stood off untill near Noon then tack'd again and stood to the sw. At Noon the Peek of Bolabola bore s 75o West, we were then distant from the shore under it 2 or 3 Miles and from the Peek about 5 Miles. Latd Observ'd 16o29' South. SUNDAY 30<1th.>1 Winds in the sE quarter at first a gentle breeze but afterwards freshen'd upon us. PM made several trips before we could weather the south end of Bolabola which at last we accomplished between 7 and 8 oClock and stood off ssw untill 12 at night, then tack'd and stood in untill 4 AM then stood off again but meeting with a large swell from the Southward againest which the Ship made little or no way, at 8 we tack'd and stood in shore again. At this time we discover'd an Island which bore from us N 63o West distant about 8 leagues, at the same time the Peek of Bolabola bore N1/2E distant 3 or 4 leagues; this Island Tupia calls <1Maurua>1s and according to his account it is but small and is surrounded by a reef of rocks and hath no harbour fit for shipping, it is inhabited and its produce is the same as the other Island we have touched at: it riseth in a highs round hill in the middle of the Island which may be seen 10 Leagues. At Noon the s. end of Otaha bore N 80o E distt 4 Leagues. Latd Obd 16o39' s. MONDAY 31<1st.>1 Fresh gales in the sE quarter and Close Clowdy weather. Plying to windward all this day on the sw side of Otaha without gaining little or any thing, in the middle watch was oblig'd to double reef our Topsails but in the morng it fell moderate and we crowded all the sail we could. At Noon the South end of Otaha bore East distant 2 Leagues. Latd Obserd 16o40' South. Tupia told us that there was a very good harbr within the reef which lies on this side of Otaha but this Harbour I shall discribe in a nother place.s [AUGUST 1769] TUESDAY 1<1st.>1 A fresh gale at sE the most part of this day. Kept plying to windward all the after noon and night and in the morning 148] found our selves nearly the length of the south end of Ulietea and to windward of some harbours that lay on this west side of the Island, into one of them I intend'd to go with the Ship in order to stop a leak in the Powder room which could not be easily done at sea & to take in more ballast as I found her too light to carry sail upon a wind. At Noon plying off one of the Harbours mouth the wind being right out. WEDNESDAY 2<1nd.>1 Moderate breeze at sE and East with some Showers of rain. At 3 PM Anchor'd in the entrance of the channell leading into the Harbours in 14 fathom water. Found a Tide seting pretty strong out which was the reason that we could not work in: carried out the kedge Anchor in order to warp into the harbour but after this was done we could not trip the bower anchor with all the pur- chass we could make and was therefore oblig'd to lay still all night, but in the morning we did it with ease and warped the Ship into a proper birth and Moor'd in 28 fathom a sandy bottom. A great number of the Natives came offto us both last night and this morning and brought with them Hoggs fouls Plantains &ca which they parted with at a very easy rate. THURSDAY 3<1rd.>1 Winds from ESE to NE Very hot weather. This after noon I went a shore to look for a place to get Stones for Ballast and a watering place, both of which I found very convenient and in the morning sent a Officer a shore to superintend the getting off Ballast and water, and I went in the Pinnace to the Northward to survey that part of the Island accompined by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, while the Carpenters were Emplyd on board stoping the leakes of the Powder-room and fore sail room. FRIDAY <14th.>1 First and latter part moderate breezes at ENE, in the night calm hot and sultry. In our rout to the northward this after noon we were entertaind at one place with Musick and danceing, the Musick consisted of three drums and the dancing was mostly per- form'd by two young women and one Man and this seem'd to be their profession,s the dress ofthe women was such as we had not seen before, it was neat decent and well chose and in many respects not much un- like a European dress, only their arms neck and shoulders were bare and their headdress was the <1Tomou>1 stucks with flowers. They made very little use of their feet and legs in dancing, but one part or a nother of their bodies were in continual motion and in various postures as standing siting and upon their hands and knees, makeing [149 strange contorsions:s their Arms hands and fingers they move'd with great agillity and in a very extraordinary manner, and altho they were very exact in observing the same motions in all their move- ments yet neither their Musick or dancing were att all calculated to pleases a European. There were likewise some men who acted a kind of a Farce but this was so short that we could gather nothing from it only that it shew'd that this people have a notion of Dramatick performances, and some of our gentlemen saw them act a Farce the next day wherein was four acts and it seem'd to them to represent a War between the Bola- bola men and those of Ulietea wherein the former triumph'd over the latter, but what might help them to draw this conclusion was the knowing that such a thing has not long ago happen'd between these two people and that the Bolabola men at present posess most of the lands on this Island. This is their grand Dramatick <1Heiva>1 and I be- leive is occasionaly perform'd in all the Islands. Upon my return to the Ship in the evening I found that they had got on board 2o Tons of Ballast and this I thought would be sufficient, in the morning we sent all our water casks a shore and got them all off full by noon. This morning I received a present from <1Opoony>1s the Earee dehi of Bolabola who at this time was upon this Island, it consisted of three Hogs, some peices of cloth, Plantains Cocoa-nuts &ca these were sent by his servants and I was told that he would come the next day himself. SATURDAY 5<1th.>1 This evening we bought as much fish as the whole Ships Compney could destroy while good. In the morning I sent the Master to the north end of the Island with the Long-boat to traffick with the Natives for Provisions as they did not bring it to the ship as they had hitherto done, and my self accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander went in the Pinnace to the Southern part of the Island partly on the same account and partly to examine that part of the Island.s In our rout we pass'd thro' two harbours equally as good as the one in which the ship lays, but the country about them is poorer and but thinly inhabited, and we got no one thing worth bringing home with us, but the Master succeeded something better. SUNDAY 6<1th.>1 Variable light airs and fair weather. AM I sent the Master again to the northward to procure refreshments, who return'd not 150] unsuccessfull. Opoony the Chief sent some of his people this morning to me to get something in return for the present he sent the other day, he not chewsing I suppose to trust himself on board or perhaps he thought the persons he sent (who were three very pretty young girls) would succeed better then he should do, be this as it may they went away very well saitisfied with what they got, altho I beleive that they were disapointed in some things. MONDAY 7<1th.>1 Variable light airs, PM some showers of rain. Being desireous to see King Opoony we made a party this after noon and went ashore for that purpose, carrying along with us a small present: upon our landing he did not receive us siting as all the other cheifs had hitherto done or in any manner of form, this we attributed to his stupitity for such he appear'd to be. However he gave me a Hog in return for the present I made him and this was paying us full as great a Compliment, before we took our leave we let him know that we should go to Otaha in the morning in our Boats and would be glad to have him along with us, and he accordingly promise'd to accom- pany us thither. Accordingly very early in the Morning I set out with both Pinnace and long boat for Otaha and some of the gentlemen along with me and in our way called upon Opoony who was in his Canoe ready to set out: as soon as we landed on Otaha I made him a present of a Ax, this I thought would induce him to incourage his subjects to bring us such provisions as we wanted, but I belive we had already got all they intended us for after staying with him untill noon we were oblige'd to go away without geting any one thing. TUESDAY 8<1th.>1 After leaving Opoony we proceeded to wards the north point of the Island and in our way pick'd up half a dozn Hogs as many fouls and some Plantains and Yams, and I had an opper- tunity to view and draw a sketch of the harbour which lies on this side of the Islands and which was the only thing that induce'd me to make this excursion. After it was dark we met with the long boat which I had in the morning dispatched to a nother part of the Island, and we now made the best of our way to the Ship and got on board about 10 at night. The Carpenter having finished stoping the leakes about the Powder room and sail room, I now intend to sail as soon as ever the wind will permit us to get out of the harbour. WEDNESDAY 9<1th.>1 PM had a light breeze of wind at north, in the night had a good deal of rain; AM little wind and variable with some showers of rain. At 11 AM a breeze of wind sprung up at East which [151 carried us out of the harbour and as soon as the boats were hoisted in made sail to the Southward.s Sence we have been about these Islands we have expended but very little of our sea provisions and have at this last place been very plentifully supply'd with Hogs Fouls Plantains and Yams, which will be of very great use to us in case we should not discover any lands in our rout to the Southward the way I now intend to steer.s Description of the Islands Ulietea, Otaha and Bolobolo So call'd by the Natives and it was not thought advisable to give them any other names but these three together with <1Huaheine, Tubai>1 and <1Maurua>1 as they lay contiguous to one a nother I have named <1Society Isles.>1s They are situated between the Latitude of 16o1o' and 16o55' South and between the Longitude of 150oo' and 151s42's West from the Meridian of Greenwich. Ulietea and Otaha lay close to each other and are both inclosed within a reef of Coral rocks, and altho the distance between the one and the other is near 2 Miles yet their is no passage for Shipping. By means of this reef are form'd several excellent Harbours, the entrances into them are but narrow but when a ship is once in nothing can hurt her; those on the East side have been already discribed. On the west side of Ulietea which is the largest Island of the two are three, the northermost of which (call'd <1Oraotanue>1)s we lay in, the Channell leading in is a 1/4 Mile wide and 152] lies between 2 low sandy Islandss which are the northermost small Islands on this side. You have good anchorage between orjust within the 2 Islands in 28 fathom, soft ground; this harbour tho' but small yet it is prefferable to any on the Island on account of the easy geting of fresh water and being seated in the most fertile part of the Island. The other two harbours lay to the southward of this and not far from the south end of the Island, in both of them are good Anchorage in Io, 12 & 14 fathom water, they are readily known by 3 small woody Islands that lay at their entrance. The southermost Harbour lies within and to the southward of the southermost Island and the other lies between the two northermost.s There are more harbours at the south end of this Island as I am inform'd but these were not examined by us. <1Otaha>1 afords two very good Harbours the one on the east and the other on the west side: that on the East side call'd <1Ohamene>1 hath been already mentioned, the other is called <1Oherurua,>1s and lies about the Middle of the sw side of the Island, it is pretty large and affords good anchorage in 2o and 25 fathom water, and there is no want of fresh water. The breach in the reef which forms a Channell into this harbour is a 1/4 Mile broad, steep too on both sides and the same may be said of all the others, and in general there is no danger but what is Visible. <1The Island of Bolabola>1 lis NwBw from Otaha distant 4 Leagues, it is incompass'd by a Reef of rocks and several small Islands and the circuit of the whole appear'd to be about 8 Leagues: on the sw side of the Islands (as I am inform'd) is an opening in the reef which admits of a Channell into a very good harbour.s This Island is very remarkable on account of a high craggy hill upon it, which termi- nates at top in two peeks the one higher then the other, this Hill is so perpendicular that it appears to be quite inaccessible.s The land on Ulietea and Otaha is of a very hilly, broken and uneven surface [153 except what borders upon the Sea Coast, and high withall, yet the Hills looks green and pleasent and are in many places Cloath'd with woods. The produce of these Islands and manners and customs of the natives are much the same as at King Georges Island only as the Bread fruit Tree is here in not such plenty, the Natives to supply that deficience, plant and cultivate a greater quantity of Plantains and Yamms of several sorts and these they have in the greatest perfection. The inhabitants are rather of a fairer Colour than the generallity of the natives of Georges Island, but more especialy the women who are much fairer and handsomer and the men are not so much addicked to theiving and are more open and free in their beheavour. The only difference we could see in their Religion was in the Houses of thier Gods which were very different to those we saw on Georges lsland. Those here were made about the size and shape of a Coffin oppen at one end, they are laid upon a number of small wooden Arches which are framed and fasten'd together like the roof of a house and these are generally supported about 3 or 4 feet above the ground by posts; over the box is a small roof or shade made of Palmetos thatch, in this Box are deposited the oblations of the Gods such as peices of Cloth, Human Bones &cas and these places they hold sacred and some are place'd in their Maries and some not. They have a Custom in preserving the Sculls and under jaw-bones of the dead but whether of their friends or enimiess I can not pretend to say; several of the sculls we observed were broke and its very probable that the owners of thim had been killd in battle as some of their weaphons are well calculated for breaking of heads, and from what we could learn it is a custom with them to cut out the lower jaw of their enemies, but I believe not before they are kill'd, and these they keep as trophies and are sometimes hung up in their houses. <1The Cheif or king of Bolabola>1 hath of late years usurped the So- vereignty of the other two and the Bolabola men at this time posess great part of the lands on Uleitea and Otaha that they have taken from the natives. The lands adjoining to the Harbour of Oraotanue belonged to Tupia the person we have on board who is a native of Uleitea. This people are very ingenious in building their Proes or 154] Canoes and seem to take as much care of them, having large shades or houses to put them in built for the purpose and in these houses they likewise build and repair them and in this they shew a great deal of ingenuity, far more than one could expect: they are built full bellied and after the very same model as those Six we saw on Georges Island which I have already described and some of them are full as large, it is more than probable that these six Proes were built at some of these Islands. In these Proes or Pahee's as the[y] call them from all the accounts we can learn, these people sail in those seas from Island to Island for several hundred Leagues, the Sun serving them for a compass by day and the Moon and Stars by night. When this comes to be prov'ds we Shall be no longer at a loss to know how the Islands lying in those Seas came to be people'd, for if the inhabitants of Uleitea have been at Islands laying 2 or 3oo Leagues to the westward of them it cannot be doubted but that the inhabitants of those western Islands may have been at others as far to westward of them and so we may trace them from Island to Island quite to the East Indias.s Remarkable Occurrences in the South Seas THURSDAY 10<1th. Winds Easterly. Course's Saild S>1 16o <1Wt. Distce>1 <1sail'd in miles>1 50. <1Latd in So>1 17o34'. <1Longde in Wt of Greenwich>1 151o41'. PM Light Airs and Calm, remainder fresh breezes and Clowdy. At 6 PM The south end of Uleitea SE1/2E distant 4 Leagues but I take my departure from the Harbour sail'd from in Latd <116>1o46' s & Longd <1151>1o27' West. At 7 AM found the Varn to be 5o50' E. At Noon Latd obd 17o34' s. FRIDAY 11<1th. Winds Et. Course's Saild S 4>1o <1W. Distce sail'd in miles>1 85. <1Latd in So>1 18o59'. <1Longde in Wt of Greenwich 151>1 o45'. Fresh breeze and Clear weather. SATURDAY 12<1th. Winds Et, EBN. Course's Saild>1 S3/4E. <1Distce sail'd>1 in <1miles>1 77. <1Latd in So>1 20o15'. <1Longde in Wt of Greenwich 151>1o36'. Gentle Breezes and fair weather. SUNDAY 13<1th. Winds EBN. Course's S>1 16o <1E. Distce sail'd in miles>1 96. <1Latd in So>1 21 o47'. <1Longde in Wt of Greenwich 151>1 o9'. Moderate breezes and Clear weather. Varn 5o40' East. [155 MONDAY 14<1th. Winds NNE. Latd in So>1 22o 26'. <1Longde in Wt of Green->1 <1wich>1 150o 55'. <1Bearings &ca Noon Ohetiroa East>1 2 <1Leags.>1 Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 PM Saw land bearing SE which Tupia calls the Island of Ohetiroa:s at 6 wass within two or 3 Leagues of it, the extreams bearing from sBE to sE. Shortend sail and stood off and on all night. At 6 AM made sail and stood in for the land and run to lee- ward of the Island keeping close in shore all the time. Saw several of the Natives as we run along shore but in no great numbers. At 9 hoisted out the Pinnace and sent Lieutt Gore Mr Banks and Tupia to endeavour to land upon the Island and to speake with the natives, and to try if they could learn from them what lands lay to the south- ward of us, and likewise to see if there was Anchorage in a Bay which appear'd to our veiw, not that I intended to anchor or make any stay here. TUESDAY 15<1th. Winds Northerly. Courses S1/2E. Dt sail'd in miles>1 94. <1Latd>1 <1in South>1 24o1'. <1Longd in>1 150o37'. <1Bearings &ca at Noon Ohetiroa>1 N1/2W <1Ditt>1 31 <1Leagues. Variation>1 6o7' <1E.>1 Fresh breeze and fair weather. At 2 PM the Pinnace return'd on board without landing, not but what it was practicable but they did not think it altogether safe with only one boat as it would have been attended with some danger on account of the surff and rocks upon the shore; the natives were arm'd and shew'd no signs of either fear or friendship; some of them came off to the boat in a Canoe and had some nails and Beeds given them but with these they were not satisfied, thinking that they had a right to every thing in the boat,s and at last grew so troublesome that in order to get clear of them our people were obliged to fire some musquets, but with no intent to hurt any of them; however it so happen'd that one man was slightly wounded in the head, the fireing had the desired effect and they thought fit to retire;s after this as the boat lay near the shore some of them waded off to her and brought with them some trifles 156] which they parted with for small nails &ca they seem'd desireous that our people should land, but this was look'd upon to be a peice of policey in them to get the whole Boats crew in their power, however this was not attempted as I had given orders to run no risk. The bay they went into which lies on ye [w]s side of the Id had in it 25fathom water but the Bottom was very foul and rocky. We had now made the circuit of the Island (which did not appear to appear to the b[e]st advantage) and found that there was neither a Harbour or safe Anchorage about it, and therefore I thought the landing upon it would be attend[ed] with no advantage either to our selves or any future navigators, and from the hostile and thievish disposission of the natives it appear'd that we could have no friendly intercourse with them untill they had felt the smart of our fire arms,a thing that would have been very unjustifiable in me at this time, we therefore hoisted in the boat and made sail to the southward. This Island is situated in the Latitude of 22o 27' S and in the Longitude of 150o 47' West from the Meridian of Greenwh.s It is 13 miles in circuit and tolerable high, it appears to be neither populous nor firtile, its produce seem'd to be nearly the same as the other Islands we have touched at and likewise the stature, Colour Habits and Arms of the Natives, only that some of them wore peices of Cloath like broad belts different both in shape and Colour to any thing of the kind we had seen before, and their arms and in general every thing they had about them much neater made and shew'd great proofs of an ingenious fancy. Tupia says that their are several Islands laying at different direc- tions from this, that is from the south to the west and Nw, and that 3 days sail to the NE is an Island called <1Mannua>1 that is Bird Island and that it lies four days sail from Ulietea, which is one day less then from Ulietea to Ohetiroa, from this account I shall be able to find the situation of Mannua pretty well.s Since we have left Ulietea Tupia hath been very disireous for us to steer to the westward and tells us that if we will but go that way we shall meet with plenty of Islands, the most of them he himself hath been at and from the description he gives of two of them they must be those discover'd by Captain [157 Wallice and by him call'd Boscawen and Kepple Islands,s and these do not lay less than 4oo Leagues to the westward of Ulietea; he says that they are 10 or 12 days in going thither and 30 or more in coming back and that their Paheas, that is their large Proes sails much faster then this Ship; all this I beleive to be true and therefore they may with ease sail 4o Leagues a day or more. The farthest Island to the southward that Tupia hath been at or knows anything of lies but two days sail from Ohetiroa and is called <1Moutou>1s but he says that his Father once told him that their were Islands to the southward of it, but we can not find that he either knows or ever heard of a Continent or large track of land. I have no reason to doubt Tupia[s] information of these Islands, for when we left Ulietea and steer'd to the southward, he told us that if we would keep a little more to the East (which the wind would not permit us to do) we should see Mannua, but as we then steer'd we should see Ohetiroa which happend accordingly. If we meet with the Islands to the southward he speaks off it[s] well if not I shall spend no time in searching for them, being now fully resolved to Stand directly to the Southward in search of thes Continent. WEDNESDAY 16<1th. Winds NBW, West, WBS. Courses S>1 15o <1E. Distce>1 <1sail'd>1 62 <1ms. Latd in South>1 25o0'. <1Longd in West>1 15oo19'. Fresh breeze and clowdy the first part, in the night squally with rain, the re- mainder Moderate and fair weather. At 8 AM saw the appearences of high land to the Eastward bore up to wards it, but at Io we dis- cover'd it to be only Clowds at which we haule'd our wind to the southward. At Noon found the Ship by observations 2I Miles to the Northward of the Log which may in some measure be owing to a sw swell we have had all the last 24 hours.s THURSDAY 17<1th. Winds WBS to SWBS. Courses SSE. Distce sail'd>1 76 <1Ms. Latd in South>1 26o10'. <1Longd in West>1 149o46'. A Gentle breeze with some flying showers of rain; had a large swell from the SW all this 158] day, much larger than yesterday, and this must be the reason why the Observe'd Latitude differ'd from the Log again to day 16 Miles.s FRIDAY 18<1th. Winds Calm, North'y. Courses S>1 8o <1E. Distce sail'd>1 38 <1Ms.>1 <1Latd in South>1 26o48'. <1Longd in West>1 149o42'. The first part Calm, the remainder light breezes & Clear. Variation pr Ampd in the Eveng 8o8' E, in the Morng 7o56' E. Carpenters Empd repairing the boats, the sw swell still continues but not so much as yesterday and the Obd Latd and Log agrees. SATURDAY 19<1th. Winds NW. Courses SEBS. Distce sail'd>1 62 <1Ms. Latd>1 <1in South>1 27o40'. <1Longd in West>1 149o6'. Little wind with much rain in the night; the sw swell still continues from which I conclude that there is no land near us in that quarter. SUNDAY 20th. <1Winds Do. Courses>1 SE1/2S. <1Distce sail'd>1 57. <1Latd in South>1 28o24'. <1Longd in West>1 I48o25'. Little wind all this day; saw a large Albatross.s MoNDAY <121st. Winds NNW. Courses S>1 5o <1E. Distce sail'd>1 8o <1M. Latd in>1 <1South>1 29o44'. <1Longd in West>1 148o22'. Fresh gales & Clowdy Hazey weather. Saw 2 Pintado Birds the first I have seen this Voyage, they are larger than a Pigeon and chequer'd black and white over their backs and wings, with white bellies, black heads, and the ends of their tails are black.s TUESDAY 22nd. <1Winds NBW, SWBW. Courses S>1 14o <1E. Dist sd in>1 <1miles>1 81 <1ms. Latd in>1 3I o3'. <1Longd in West>1 I48oo'. First part Strong gales with much rain Thunder and lightning, the remainder Moderate and fair weather; about Noon saw some Rock weed, an Albatross and some smaller Sea Birds. WEDNESDAY 23<1rd. Winds SW to WSW. Courses SSE. Dist in miles>1 68. <1Latdin>1 32o6'.s <1Longd in West>1 147o29'. Little wind for the most part and [159 pretty clear weather, in the night had some showers of rain, saw a Grampuss1 and severI Pintado Birds.s THURSDAY 24<1th. Winds Varble. Courses SSE. Dist sd in miles>1 41. <1Latd in>1 32o44'. <1Longd in West>1 147o 10'. The first part lig Middle Moderate breezes and Clowdy, the latter part very Squally with rain. AM Variation pr Azth 7o18' East. At Noon took in the Topsails and got down topgallant Yards. Saw a Water spout in the NW, it was about the breadth of a Rain Bow, of a Dark Colour, the upper end of the Clowd from whence it came was about 8o above the Horizon.s FRIDAY 25th. <1Winds Southy. Courses NW. Dist sd in miles>1 26. <1Latd in>1 32o26'. <1Longd in West>1 147o32'. The first and middle parts Strong gales and Squally with rain, the remainder moderate and Clowdy. PM unbent the Main Topsail, being split and bent a nother. In the night lay too under the Fore sail, and in the morning made sail under the Courses and Topsails, with one reef out. Had a large Sea from the Southward. Saw several Albetrosses Pintado Birds and Sheer-waters, some of the Albetrosses were smalls such as we usually saw off Cape Horn. All these kind of birds are generaly seen at a great distce from land. SATURDAY 26<1th. Winds SW. Courses S>1 6o <1E. Dist sail'd>1 13. <1Lat in>1 32o39'. <1Longd in>1 147o30'. Moderate and Clowdy weather, a swell from the sw. By observations of the Sun and moon made this Morning the Longitude of the Ship at Noon is 147o18'40" which differs but 11' from that given by the Log.s SUNDAY 27<1th. Winds West, NNW. Courses S>1 5o <1E. Dist sail'd>1 55. <1Lat in>1 33o34'. <1Longd in>1 147o25'. First part little wind and clowdy, the latter part freshs and clear weather. Variation pr Azth 6o40' E. Saw severs Albatrosses, Pintado Birds and Sheer-waters. MONDAY 28th. <1Winds Northly. Courses South. Dist sail'd>1 110. <1Lat in>1 35o34'. <1Longd in>1 I47o25'. Fresh gales and Clowdy with rain on the latter part. At 10 AM, departed this life Jno Radons Boatswains Mate, his death was occasioned by the Boatswain, out of mere good nature, giving him part of a Bottle of rum last night, which it is supposed he drank all at once, he was found to be very much in Liquor last night, 160] but as this was no more than what was common with him when he could get any, no farther notice was taken of him then to put him to Bed where this morning about 8 oClock he was found speechless and past recovery.s TUESDAY 29<1th. Winds NW to SW. Courses S1/4E. Dist sail'd>1 96. <1Lat in>1 37o0'. <1Longd in>1 147o21'. Fore and middle parts fresh gales and dark hazey wear with some rain; at 5 AM saw a Comet in the north. WEDNESDAY <130th. Winds Westerly. Courses S3/4E. Dist sail'd in mileu>1 81. <1Lat in South>1 38o20'. <1Longd in West>1 147o6'. Fresh breeze and fair weather. At 1 AM saw the Comet a little above the horizon in the East, it pass'd the Meridian about 1/2 past 4. The tail of the Comet sub- tended an Angle of 42o.s At 8 AM Variation pr Azth 7o9' E. Bent another suit of sails. Saw a peice of Rock weed, some Pintado Birds and sheer-waters and a Green Bird something smaller than a Dove, but it was not near enough to distinguish whither it was a Sea or land bird, it was only seen by one person and he probably was mistaken in the Colour.s A Swell from the sw. THURSDAY 31<1st. Winds Westerly. Courses S>1 4o15' <1E. Dist sail'd in miles>1 68. <1Lat. in South>1 39o28'. <1Longd in West>1 147o0'. The firsts a fresh breeze and Clowdy. At 6 PM hauled the wind to the sw and Close reef'd the Topsails. At <11>1 AM being very Squally with rain, took in the Topsails [161 and brot too under the Main sail.s At 6 made sail under the Courses. Saw some sea weed, sounded but had no ground with 65 fm of line. Some Albetrosses Sheer waters and a great many Pintado Birds about the Ship, with some hundreds of Birds that were smaller than Pigeons, their backs were grey, their bellies white and the ends of their tails black, and have a blackesh line along the upper parts of the wings from the tip of one to the other.s We saw birds verylike these near Faulklands Islands on the Coast of Patagonia, only they had not the black strake along the wings. They fly low like sheer-waters or Mother Caries Birds and are perhaps of the same tribe. For dis- tinction sake I shall call them Doves.s [SEPTEMBER 1769] FRIDAY <11st. Winds Westerly. Courses S>1 29o <1E. Dist sail'd in miles>1 50. <1Lat in South>1 40o12'. <1Longd in West>1 146o29'. Very strong gales, and heavy squalls with rain. At 6 PM brot too under the Main sail, at 6 AM set the fore sail. A great sea from the westward, the same sort of Birds about the Ship as yesterday, but not in such great numbers.s SATURDAY 2<1nd. Winds West. Courses N>1 54o30' <1E. Dist" sail'd>1 46. <1Latd>1 <1in South>1 39o45'. <1Longd in West>1 145o39'. Very Strong gales with heavy Squalls of Wind, hail and rain. At 4 PM being in the Latd of 40o22' s and having not the least Visible signs ofland, we wore and brought too under the fore sail and reefd the Main sail and handed it. I did intend to have stood to the Southward if the winds had been moderate so long as they continued westerly notwithstanding we had no prospect of meeting with land, rather then stand back to ye northrd on the same track as we came; but as the weather was so very tempestuous I laid a side this design, thought it more advisable to stand to the Northward into better weather least we should receive such damages in our sails & rigging as might hinder the further prosecutions of the Voyage.s 162] Albetroses, Pintado Birds and Doves about the Ship, and a Bird larger than a duck, his plumage of a dark brown with a yallow beak, we saw of these birds in our passage to the northward after doubling Cape Horn.s At Noon the weather was more Moderate set the reef'd Main sail, a great sea from the wsw. SUNDAY 3<1rd. Winds Westerly. Courses North. Distce sail'd>1 50. <1Latd in>1 <1South>1 38o54'. <1Longd in West>1 145o39'. The fore and middle part fresh gales with hard squalls, the latter more moderate. At 5 AM loos'd the reef out of the Main sail and set the Topsails Double reef'd, and before noon had all the reefs out.s MONDAY 4<1th. Winds Do. Courses NBE. Distce sail'd>1 26. <1Latd in South>1 38o29'. <1Longd in West>1 145o32'. First and latter parts little wind and Clowdy, in the night Calm. Very few Birds about the Ship.s TUESDAY 5<1th. Winds W to NW. Courses N>1 32o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 44. <1Latd>1 <1in South>1 37o52'. <1Longd in West>1 146o2'. Fresh breeze and Clowdy weather. At 2 PM saw a peice of rock weed. Variation pr Az. 7o0' E. WEDNESDAY 6<1th. Winds Westerly. Courses S>1 87o30' <1W. Distce sail'd>1 70. <1Latd in South>1 37o49'. <1Longd in West>1 147o30'. Fresh gales and squally with rain, at Noon saw a Bird which was all white except the tip of each wing, it was nearly as big as an Albetross.s We saw two of these Birds in latitude 19o before we ariv'd at Georges Island.s THURSDAY 7<1th. Winds Westerly. Course's S>1 80o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 15. <1Latd in South>1 37o52'. <1Longd in West>1 147o49'. Fresh gales and hard squalls with rain. At 3 PM saw something upon the water which must either have been a billet of Wood or a Seal. At Noon a hard gale and squally which obliged us to take in the topsails. FRIDAY 8<1th. Winds Do. Course's N1/4E. Distce sail'd>1 76. <1Latd in South>1 36o36'. <1Longd in West>1 147o40'. PM very strong gales and squally. AM more moderate, set the Topsails. At Noon the observed latitude was [163 if Miles to the north of the log, this I take to be owing to the great sea we have had constantly of late from the sw. SATURDAY 9<1th. Winds SErly. Course's N>1 77o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 76. <1Latd>1 <1in South>1 36o19'. <1Longd in West>1 149o12'. Moderate breezes and dark Clowdy weather, sometimes hazey with drizling rain.s SUNDAY 10<1th. Winds South to WSW. Course's>1 N52o <1Wt. Distce sail'd 97.>1 <1Latd in South>1 35o19'. <1Longd in West>1 150o46'. Fresh breezes and Clowdy. At 9 AM we thought the colour of the Sea was paler than usual which occasioned us to sound but had no ground with Ioo fathoms. MONDAY 11<1th. Winds SW. Course's>1 N43 <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 87. <1Latd in>1 <1South>1 34o15'. <1Longd in West>1 152o0'. Fresh breezes and for the most part thick hazey weather with rain.s TUESDAY 12<1th. Winds Westerly. Course's N>1 30o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 73. <1Latd in South>1 33o12'. <1Longd in West>1 152o44'. Fresh breezes and clowdy, a swell from the ssw. Some Albetrosses and Pintado Birds about the Ship. WEDNESDAY 13<1th. Winds SW & WSW. Course's NNW. Distce sail'd>1 74. <1Latd in South>1 32o3'. <1Longd in West>1 153o16'. Gentle breezes, with some flying showers. At 6 pm Variation pr Azth. 8o8' E. Note, while we was between the latitudes of 37o and 40o we had constantly blowing tempestious weather, but sence we have been to the North- ward of 37o the weather hath been very moderate. THURSDAY 14<1th. Winds Varble. Course's S>1 86o <1Wt. Dist sail'd>1 33. <1Latd>1 <1in South>1 32o5'. <1Longd in West>1 153o54'. Gentle breezes and some times Calm, a swell from the ssw.s FRIDAY 15<1th. Winds NE to SE. Course's S>1 77o <1Wt. Dist sail'd>1 139. <1Latd in South>1 32o36'. <1Longd in West>1 156o34'. First part moderate and Clowdy, the remainder strong gales and squally. Several Albetroses, Pintado Birds & Sheer-waters about the Ship, some of the Albetroses were all white.s SATURDAY 16<1th. Winds SSE, South, WSW. Course's N>1 60 <1Wt. Dist>1 <1sail'd>1 100. <1Latd in South>1 31o45'. <1Longd in West>1 158o16'. First part very strong gales and squally, the remainder more moderate, with a large swell from the southward. 164] SUNDAY 17<1th. Winds SW. Course's>1 N25o <1Wt. Dist sail'd>1 1oo. <1Lat in>1 <1South>1 30o 14'. <1Longd in West 1>1 59o6'. Fresh gales and clowdy. MONDAY 18<1th. Winds Westerly. Course's North by West 1/2 West. Dist>1 <1sail'd>1 78. <1Latd in South>1 29o0'. <1Longd in West>1 159o32'. Moderate gales and clowdy, with a swell from the southward. TUESDAY <119th. Winds Varble. Course's East. Dist sail'd>1 6. <1Latd in>1 <1South>1 29o0'. <1Longd in West>1 159o25'. Variable Light airs and calm, Variation pr Ampd at sunset 8o36' E, pr Az. in the Morning 8o29' E, Mean 8o321/2' East. A large hollow swell from the southward. WEDNESDAY 20th. <1Winds Do. Course's South Wt by South. Dist sail'd>1 20. <1Latd in South>1 29o20'. <1Longd in West>1 159o47'. Light airs and Calm. THURSDAY 21st. <1Winds So Easterly. Course's S>1 50o <1West. Dist sail'd 62.>1 <1Latd in South>1 30o0'. <1Longd in West>1 160o42'. Most part gentle breeze and clear weather. FRIDAY 22<1nd. Winds SE. Course's S>1 34o <1Wt. Dist sail'd>1 81. <1Lard in>1 <1South>1 31o7'. <1Longd in West>1 161o35'. Fresh breeze and clowdy, the Southerly swell still continues--from which I conjector that there is no land near in that dire[c]tion. SATURDAY 23<1rd. Winds Do. Course's SWBS. Dist sail'd>1 62. <1Latd in>1 <1South>1 31 o59'. <1Longd in West>1 162o44'. Gentle breezes and clowdy weather.s SUNDAY 24<1th. Winds SE to NE. Course's S>1 35o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 97. <1Latd in South>1 33o18'. <1Longd in West>1 163o51'. Moderate breeze and clowdy weather. At Noon saw some seaweed, the Southerly swell is now quite gone down. MONDAY 25<1th. Winds NE. Course's S>1 431/2o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 103. <1Latd in South>1 34o30'. <1Longd in West>1 165o10'. Do Weather. At I PM pass'd by a peice of wood about 3 feet long and 7 or 8 Inches thick. Variation at 6 PM pr Az. 10o48' E. AM got all the Boatswain Stores up to take an Account of them. TUESDAY 26<1th. Winds NNE. Course's SW. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 136. <1Latd in South>1 36o9'. <1Longd in West>1 167o14'. Fresh breeze and fair weather. WEDNESDAY 27<1th. Winds NBE, Westerly. Course's S>1 28o <1Wt. Distce>1 <1sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 95. <1Latd in South>1 37o33'. <1Longd in West>1 168o10'. Very strong gales and hazey with rain the fore and middle part the re- [165 mainder moderate and clear wear. In the evening took in the Top- sails and Main sail and lay too with her head to the westward under the Fore sail during the night. At 4 AM made sail. Saw several peices of sea weed at different times this 24 hours. THURSAY 28<1th. Winds Westerly. Course's S>1 21o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 92. <1Latd in South>1 38o59'. <1Longd in West>1 169o5'. The first and middle parts fresh gales and Clowdy, the latter part very strong gales & Squally. At 4 PM saw a Seal a Sleep upon the water & some weed. AM saw several bunches of sea weed and a few Albetroses and Sheer waters. FRIDAY 29<1th. Winds SW. Course's N>1 59o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 60. <1Latd in South>1 38o30'. <1Longd in West>1 170o14'. Strong gales and squally the first part the remainder a fresh breezes and settled weather. At 1 PM wass obliged to take in the Topsails, but set them again at 4. At 11 AM saw a Bird something like a snipe only it had a short Bill, it had the appearence of a land bird.s Several Albetroses, Pintado Birds, and sheer-waters about the Ship, and a number of Doves, of these we have seen more or less ever since the 31st of last month the day we first saw them. SATURDAY 30<1th. Winds South Etly. Course's N>1 871/2 <1W. Distce sail'd [in]>1 <1miles>1 90. <1Latd in South>1 38o26'. <1Longd in West>1 172o20'. Moderate breezes and settled weather. Saw a dark brown Bird as big as a raven, it is a Sea fowl and are seen in great number about the Faulklands Islands as I am told;s we likewise saw several peices ofsea weed. [OCTOBER 1769] SUNDAY 1<1st. Winds South to WBN. Course's N>1 16 <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1Files>1 43. <1Latd in South>1 37o45'. <1Longd in West>1 172o36'. Little wind in the Day time and Calm in the night. At 8 AM soundd but had no ground with a 120 fathom of line. Saw an emence number of Birds the most of them were Doves,s saw likewise a Seal a Sleep upon the water which we at first took for a crooked Billet,s these creators as they lay 166] upon the water hold their Fins up in a very odd manner and very different to any I have seen before: we generaly reckon that seals never go out of soundings or far from land, but the few we have seen in this sea is certainly an excepton to that rule, however one would think that we were not far from some land from the peices of Rock weed we see dailys floating upon the water. To day we took up a small peice of stick but to all appearences it had been a long time at sea.s The observe'd Latd is considerably to the northward of that given by the Log, in so much that I think there must be some current seting from the southward. MONDAY 2<1nd. Winds WSW, SW. Course's NNW. Distce Sail'd [in]>1 <1miles>1 35. <1Latd in South>1 37o10'. <1Longd in West>1 172o54'. Little wind. At 3 PM houisted out a Boat to try the current but found none, saw several Grampusses. AM had a Boat in the water, and Mr Banks shot an Albetross which measure'd 10 feet 8 Inches from the tip of one wing to the other;s he likewise shot two Birds that were very much like ducks excepting their heads and bills, their Plumage were dark brown: we first saw of these Birds in the Latd of 48o s after our first coming into those Seas.s TUESDAY 3<1rd. Winds Southerly. Course's N>1 60o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 28. <1Lat. in South>1 36o56'. <1Long in West>1 173o27'. Little wind and sometimes Calm. AM Variation pr Azth 13o22' East. Saw some fish like skip Jacks and a small sort that appear'd very transparent.s Took up a very small peice of wood with Barnacles upon it a proof that it had been some time at Sea; some very large white Albetroses about the Ship & other birds.s The Observed Latitude is 1o Miles to the north- [167 ward of that given by the Log, and it was the same yesterday which I think is a proff that their must be a current seting to the northward notwithstanding we did not find any when we try'd it. WEDNESDAY 4<1th. Winds SE. Course's So>1 521/2o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 86. <1Lat in South>1 37o43'. <1Long in West>1 175o0'. Gentle Breezes and clowdy weather: PM Variation per Azth 12o48' East. Sounded twice but found no ground with 120 fathoms of line. Saw some rock weed but not in such plenty as of late. THURSDAY 5<1th. Winds SE to ENE. Course's So>1 491/2o <1Wt. Distce sail'd>1 63. <1Lat in South>1 38o23'. <1Long in West>1 176o3'. Light gentle breezes and clear settled weather. PM saw one of the same sort of Birds as we saw last saturday, these Birds are of a dark brown or Chocolate colour with some white feathers under their wings and are as big as ravens: Mr Gore says that they are in great plenty at Port Egmont in Faulkland Islds, and for that reason calles them Port Egmont Hens. Saw a great many Porposes large and small the small ones had White bellies and noses.s AM Saw 2 Port Egmont Hens a seal, some Sea weed and a peice of wood, with Barnacles upon it.s FRIDAY 6<1th. Winds ENE. Courses SW. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 62. <1Latd in>1 <1South>1 39o<11 1'. Longd in West>1 177o2'. Little wind and fine pleasent weather. Saw some Seals, sea-weed and Port Egmont Hens. PM Variation pr Azth 12o50' East, pr Ampd 12o40'. AM pr Azth 14s2' E the difference is 1o3' and the Ship has only gone 9 Leagues in the time. The Colour of the water appears to be paler than Common and hath been so for some days past this makes us sound frequently, but can find no ground with I8o fathoms of line. SATURDAY 7<1th. Winds NE, SE, Varble. Courses N>1 70o <1Wt. Distce>1 <1sail'd [in] miles>1 41. <1Latd in South>1 38o57'. <1Longd in West>1 177o54'. Gentle breezes and settled weather. At 2 PM saw land from the mast head bearing wBN, which we stood directly for, and could butjust see it of the deck at sun set. Variation pr Az. and Ampd 15o41/2' East. By ob- servations of the Sun and Moon made this afternoon the Longitude of the Ship is 180o55' w: by the mean of these and subsequent observa- tions the error of the Ships accou[n]t in Longd from Georges Island is 3o16', that is the Ship is so much to the Westward of the Longde resulting from the Log which is what is insert'd [in] the columns. At midnight brought too and sounded but had no ground with 170 fath: 168] at day light made sail in for the land. At Noon it bore from sw to NWBN distant 8 Leagues. Latitude Observed 38o57' s.s SUNDAY 8<1th. Gentle breezes between the ENE and north, clear>1 weather. At 5 PM seeing the opening of a Bay that appear'd to run pretty far inland, hauled our wind and stood in for it, but as soon as night came on we kept plying on and off untill day light when we found our selves to Leeward of the Bay the wind being at north.s By noon we fetched in with the sw point, but not being able to weather it we tacked and stood off. We saw in the Bay several Canoes, People upon the shore and some houses in the Country. The land on the Sea-Coast is high with white steep clifts and back inland are very high mountains,s the face of the Country is of a hilly surface and appeares to be cloathed with wood and Verdure.s MONDAY 9<1th>1. Gentle breezes and clear weather. PM stood into the Bay and anchored on the NE sides before the entrance of a small rivers in 10 fathom water a fine sandy bottom; the NE point of the Bay bore EBS1/2S and the sw point south, distant from the shore half a League. After this I went ashore with a party of men in the Pinnace and yawl accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, we land[ed] abreast of the Ship and on the east side of the river just mentioned, but seeing some of the natives on the other side of the river whome I was de- sirous of speaking with and finding that we could not ford the river, I order'd the yawl in to carry us over and the Pinnace to lay at the entrance. In the mean time the Indians made off; however we went as far as their hutts which lay about 2 or 3 hundred yards from the water side leaving four boys to take care of the yawl, which we had [169 no sooner left than four men came out of the woods on the other side the river and would certainly have cut her off, had not the people in the pinnace discover'd them and called to her to drop down the stream which they did being closely pursued by the Indians; the Coxswain of the pinnace who had the charge of the Boats, seeing this fire'd two musquets over their heads, the first made them stop and look round them, but the 2d they took no notice of upon which a third was fired and killed one of them upon the spots just as he was going to dart his spear at the boat; at this the other three stood motionless for a minute or two, seemingly quite surprised wondering no doubt what it was that had thus killed their commorade: but as soon as they recover'd themselves they made off draging the dead body a little way and then left it. Upon our hearing the report of the Musquets we immidiatly repair'd to the boats and after viewing the dead body we return'd on board. In the morning seeing a good number of the natives at the same place where we saw them last night, I went a shore with the boats man'd and arm'd and landed on the opposite side of the river: Mr Banks Dr Solander and my self at first only landed and went to the side of the river, the natives being got together on the opposite side. We call'd to them in the George Island Langu- age, but they answered us by florishing their weapons over their heads and danceing, as we supposed the war dance;s upon this we retired untill the marines were landed which I order'd to be drawn up about two hundred yards behind us. We then went again to the river side having Tupia Mr Green and Dr Munkhouse along with us. Tupia spoke to them in his own language and it was an [a]greeable surprise to us to find that they perfectly understood him. After some little conversation had pass'd one of them swam over to us and after him 2o or 3o more, these last brought their arms with them which the first man did not, we made them every one presents but this did not satisfy them they wanted but every thing we had about us par- ticularly our arms, and made several attempts to snatch them out of our hands. Tupia told us several times as soon as they came over to take care of our selves for they were not our friends, and this we very soon found for one of them snatched Mr Greens Hanger from him and would not give it up, this incourage'd the rest to be more insolent and 170] seeing others comeing over to join them I order'd the Tan who had taken the hanger to be fired at, which was accordingly done and wounded in such a rnanner that he died soon after; upon the first fire, which was only two musquets,s the others retire'd to a rock which lay nearly in the middle of the river,s but upon seeing the man fall they return'd probably to carry him off or his arms, the last of which they accomplished and this we could not prevent unless we had run our Bayonets into them,s for upon their returning from off the rock we had discharg'd of our peices which were load[ed] with small shott and wound'd three more, but these got over the river and where carried off by the others who now thought proper to retire. Finding that nothing was to be done with the people on this side and the water in the river being salt I embarked with an intent to row round the head of the Bay in search of fresh water, and if possible to surprise some of the natives and to take them on board and by good treatment and presents endeavour to gain their friendship;s with this View on TUESDAY 10<1th>1. PM I rowed round the head of the Bay but could find no place to land, on account of the great surff which beat every where upon the shore; seeing two boats or Canoes coming in from Sea, I rowed to one of them in order to seize upon the people and came so near before they took notice of us that Tupia called to them to come along side and we would not hurt thern, but instead of doing this they endeavoured to get away, upon which I order'd a Musquet to be fire'd over their heads thinking that this would either make them surrender or jump over board, but here I was misstaken for they immidiatly took to thier arms or whatever they had in the boat and began to attack us, this obliged us to fire upon them and unfortunatly either two or three were kill'd, and one wounded, and three jumped. [171 over board, these last we took up and brought on board, where they were clothed and treated with all immaginable kindness and to the surprise of every body became at once as cheerful and as merry as if they had been with their own friends; they were all three young, the eldest not above 2o years of age and the youngest about 10 or 12.s I am aware that most humane men who have not experienced things of this nature will cencure my conduct in fireing upon the people in this boat nor do I my self think that the reason I had for seizing upon her will att all justify me, and had I thought that they would have made the least resistance I would not have come near them, but as they did I was not to stand still and suffer either my self or those that were with me to be knocked on the head.s In the morning as I intended to put our three prisioners a shore and stay here the day to see what effect it might have upon the other natives, I sent an Officer aShore with the marines and a party of men to cut wood, and soon after followed my self accompaned by Mr Banks Dr Soland[er] and Tupia, takeing the three natives along with us whome we landed on the west side of the river before mentioned; they were very unwilling to leave us pretending that they should fall into the hands of their enimies who would kill and eat them; however they at last of their own accords left us and hid themselves in some bushes. Soon after this we discover'd several bodies of the Natives marching towards us, upon which we retire'd a Cross the River and join'd the wooders and with us came the three natives we had just parted with, for we could not prevail upon them to go to their own people. We had no sooner got over the river than the others assembled on the other side to the number of 150 or 200 all arm'd. Tupia now began to parly with them and the three we had with us shew'd every 172] thing we had given them, part of which they laid and left upon the body of the man that was killed the day before, these things seemed so far to convince them of our friendly intentions that one man came over to us while all the others set down upon the sand: we every one made this man a present and the three natives that were with us like- wise presented him with such things as they had got from us, with which after a short stay he retired a cross the river. I now thought proper to take every body on board to prevent any more quarrels and with us came the [three natives],s whome we could not prevail upon to stay behind and this appear'd the more strange as the Man who came over to us was uncle to one of them. After we had return'd on board we saw them carry off the dead man but the one that was kill'd the first evening we landed remaind in the very spot they had left him.s WEDNESDAY 11<1th.>1 In the PM as I intended to sail in the morning we put the three youths ashore seemingly very much againest their inclination, but whether this was owing to a desire they had to remain with us or the fear of falling into the hands of their eminies as they pretended I know not; the latter however seem'd to be ill founded for we saw them carried aCross the river in a Catamaran and walk leasurely off with the other natives. At 6 AM we weigh'd and stood out of the Bay which I have named <1Poverty Bay>1s because it afforded us no one thing we wanteds (Latde 38o42' s. Longde 181o36' w) it is in the form of a Horse shoe and is known by an Isld lying close und[er] the NE point,s the two points which forms the entrance are high with steep white clifts and lay a league and a half or two leagues from each other NEBE and SWBW. The depth of water in this Bay is from 12 to 6 and 5 fathoms a sandy bottom and good anchorage but you lay open to the winds between the South and East. Boats can go in and out of the river above [173 mentioned at any time of tide in fine weather, but as there is a bar at the entrance on which the sea some times runs so high that no boat can get either in [or] out which happen'd while we lay here, however I beleive that boats can generaly land on the NE side of the river. The shore of this bay from a little within each entrance is a low flat sand but this is only a narrow slip, for the face of the Country appears with a variety of hills and vallies all cloathed with woods and Verdure and to all appearence well inhabeted especialy in the Vallies leading up from the bay where we dayly saw smooks at a great distance in land, and far back in the Country are very high mountains. At Noon the sw Point of Poverty Bay (which I have named <1Young Nicks head>1 after the boy who first saw this land)s bore NBw distant 3 or 4 Leagues, being at this time about 3 Miles from the shore and had 25 fathom, the Main land extending from NEBN to South.s My intention is to fowlow the direction of the Coast to the Southward as far as the Latitude of 40o or 41o and then to return to the northward in case we meet with nothing to incourage us to proceed farther. THURSDAY 12<1th>1. Gentle breezes at Nw and north with frequent calms. In the afternoon while we lay becalm'd several Canoes came off to the Ship but kept at a distance untill one who appear'd to come from a different part came off and put along side at once and after her all the rest. The people in this boat had heard of the treatment those had met we had had on board before and therefore came on board without hesitation. They were all kindly treated and very soon enter'd into a traffick with our people for George Island Cloth &ca giving in exchange their paddles (having little else to dispose of) and hardly left themselves a Sufficient number to paddles a shore, nay the 174] People in one Canoe after disposing of the Paddles offer'd to sell the Canoe. After a stay of about two hours they went away, but by some means or a nother three were left on board and not one boat would put back to take them in and what was more surprising those on board did not seem attall uneasy with their situation.s In the evening a light breeze springing up at NW we steer'd along shore under an easy sail untill midnight, then brought too, soon after it fell calm and continued so untill 8 oClock AM when a breeze sprung up at north with which we stood along shore ssw. At and after sun rise found the Variation to be 14o46' East. About this time two Canoes came off to the ship one of which was prevaild upon to come along side to take in the three people we had had on board all night who now seem'd glad of the oppertunity to get a shore; as the people in the Canoe were a little shy at first it was observed that one arguement those on board made use on to intice the others along side was in telling them that we did not eat men, from which it should seem that these people have such a Custom among them. At the time we made sail we were a breast of the point of land set yesterday at Noon from which the land trends ssw. This point I have named <1Cape Table>1 on account of its shape and figure, itlies 7 Leagues to the Southward of Poverty Bay in the Latitude of 39o7' s, Longde 181o36'; it is of a moderate height, makes in a sharp angle and appears to be quite flat at top. In steering along shore to the southward of the Cape at the distance of two or three miles off our soundings were from 20 to 30 fathm having a chain of rocks that appear'd at different heights above water laying between us & the shore. At Noon Cape Table bore N 20o East distant 4 Leagues, and a small Island (being the Southermost land in sight) bore South 70o w distant 3 Miles: this Island I have named <1Isle of>1 <1Portland>1 on account of its very great resemblance to Portland in the English Channell, it lies about a mile from a point on the main but there appears to be a ledge of rocks extending nearly if not quite a Cross from the one to the other. N 57o E 2 Miles from the South point of Portland lies a sunken rocks whereon the Sea breaks. We pass'd between this rock and the land having 17, 18 and 20 fathom water. We saw a great number of the Natives assembled together on the Isle of Portland, we likewise saw some on the Main land and several places that were cultivated and laid out in square plantations. FRIDAY 13<1th>1. At 1 PM we discoverd land behind or to the Westward of Portland extending to the Southward as far as we could see. In [175 hauling round the south end of Portland we fell into shoal water and broken grounds which we however soon got clear of: at this time four Canoes came off to us full of people and kept for some time under our stern threating of us all the while. As I did not know but what I might be obliged to send our boats a head to sound I thought these gentry would be as well out of the way, I order'd a musquet shott to be fired close to one of them, but this they took not the least notice of; a four pounder was then fired a little wide of them, at this they began to shake thier spears and Paddles at us, but notwithstanding this they thought fit to retire. Having got round Portland we hauled in for the land Nw, having a gentle breeze at NE which died away at 5 oClock and obliged us to anchor in 21 fathom water a fine sandy bottom. The South point of Portland bore sE1/2s distant about 2 Leagues and a low point on the Main bore N1/2E. In this last direction there runs in a de[e]p bay behind the Land on which is Table Cape which makes this land a peninsula joind to the Main by a low narrow neck of land, the Cape is the North point of the peninsula and Portland the South.s While we lay at anchor two boats came offto us and so near as to take up some things we throw'd them out of the Ship but would not come a long side. At 5 AM a breeze springing northerly we weigh'd and steer'd in for the land. The shore here forms a very large Bay of which Port- land is the NE point and the bay above mentioned is an arm of it. I would gladly have examined this arm because there appear'd to be safe Anchorage in it, but as I was not certain of this and the wind being right on end I did not care to spend time in turning up to it. At noon Portland bore s 50o East and the southermost land in sight bore ssw distant 10 or 12 Leagues, being about three miles from the shore and in this situation had 12 fathom water--24 fathom have been the most water we have met with sence we have been within Portland, every where clear ground. The land near the shore is of a moderate height with white clifts and sandy beaches--inland are several pretty high mountains and 176] the whole face of the country appears with a very hilly surface and for the most part covered with wood and hath all the appearences of a very pleasent and fertile country. SATURDAY 14<1th>1. PM had gentle breezes between the NE and Nw. Kept runing down along shore at the distance of two or 3 Miles off, our soundings was from 2o to 13 fathom an even sandy bottom. We saw some canoes or boats in shore and several houses upon the land, but no harbour or convenient watering place, the main thing we were looking for. In the night had little wind and sometimes Calm with dirty rainy weather. AM had Variable light airs next to a Calm and fair weather. In the Morning being not above two Leagues from the sw Cods of the great Bay we have been in for these 2 days past, the Pinnace and Long boat were hoisted out in order to search for fresh water; but just as they were ready to put off we observe'd several Boats full of People coming off from the shore and for that reason I did not think it prudent to send our own from the Ship; the first that came were five in number, in them were between 8o and 9o Men. Every method was tried to gain their friend Ship and several things were thrown over board to them, but all we could do was to no purpose neither would they except of any one thing from us but seem'd fully bent on attacking us; in order to prevent this and our being obliged to fire upon them I order'd a 4 pounder load[ed] with Grape to be fire'd a little wide of them, leting them know at the same time by means of Tupia what we were going to do; this had the de- sired effect and not one of these would afterwards trust themselves abreast of the Ship. Soon after four more came off, one of these put what arms they had into a nother boat and then came along side so near as to take what things we gave them, and I believe might have been prevaild upon to come on board had not some of the first 5 come up under our stern and begun again to t[h]reaten us at which the people in this one boat seem'd displeased, emmidiatly after this they all went a Shore. At Noon Lat. In per Observation 39o37' s. Port- land bore by our run from it EBN Dist. 14 Leagues, the southermost land in sight and which is the south point of the Bay SEBS, distant 4 or 5 Leagues, and a bluffheads lying in the sw Cod of the Bay, SBW 2 or 3 Miles. On each side of this bluf head is a low narrow sand or stone beach, between these beaches and the main land is a pretty large lakes [177 of salt water as I suppose; on the SEs side of this head is a very large flat, which seems to extend a good way in land to the westward, on this flat are several Groves of Streight tall trees: but there seems to be a great probabillity that the lake above mention'd extends it self a good way into this flat country. Inland are a chain of pretty high mountains extending N and s,s on the sumets and sides of these moun- tains were many patches of snow, but between them and the Sea the land is Cloathed with wood. SUNDAY 15<1th>1. PM Stood over for the Southermost land or South point of the Bay, having a light breeze at NE, our soundings from 12 to 8 fathom; not reaching this point before dark, we stood off an[d] on all night, having Variable light airs next to a Calm, depth of water from 8 to 7 fathom. Variation 14o 1o'E. At 8 AM being a breast ofthe SW Point of the Bay, some fishing boats came off to us and sold us some stinking fish,s however it was such as the[y] had and we were glad to enter into traffick with them upon any terms. These people behaved at first very well untill a large arm'd boats wherein were 22 Men, came along side. We soon saw that this boat had nothing for traffic, yet as they came boldly along side we gave them two or three peices of Cloth, articles they seem the most fond off; One man in this boat had on him a black skin something like a bear skin which I was desireous of having that I might be a better judge what sort of an Animal the first owner was.s I offer'd him for it a peice of Red Cloth which he seem'd to jump at by emmidiatly puting of the Skin and holding it up to us, but would not part with it untill he had the Cloth in his possession, and after that not attall but put of the boat and went away and with them all the rest, but in a very short time they return'd again and one of the fishing boat came along side and offer'd us some more fish, the Indian Boy Tiata, Tupia's servent being over the side, they seized hold of him, pulld him into the boat and en- deavourd to carry him off, this obliged us to fire upon them which gave the Boy an oppertunity to jump over board and we brought the Ship too, lower'd a boat into the Water and took him up unhurt.s 178] Two or Three paid for this daring attempt with the loss of their lives and many more would have suffered had it [not] been for fear of killing the boy.s This affair occation'd my giveing this point of Land the name of <1Cape kidnappers:>1s it is remarkable on account of two white rocks in form of Hay Stacks standing very near it: on each side of the Cape are tollerable high white steep clifts. Latd 39o43' S, Longd. 182o24' w. It lies South WB West distant 13 Leagues from the Isle of Portland, between them is a large Bay wherein we have been for these 3 Days past; this Bay I have name'd <1Hawke's Bay>1 in honour of Sr Edward first Lord of the Admiralty;s we found in it from 24 to 8 and 7 fathom every where good Anchoring. From Cape Kidnappers the Island trends SSW and in this direction we run along shore keeping about a league off, having a steady breeze and clear weather. At Noon the above Cape bore from us N 9" E distant 2 Leagues and the Southermost land in sight s 25o West. Latitude in per Observation 39o50' South. MONDAY October 16<1th>1. First and latter part fresh breezes Northerly in the night Variable and sometimes calm. At 2 PM past by a small [179 but a pretty high white Islands lying close to the Shore, on this Island we saw a good ma[n]y houses, Boats and some people, we concluded that they must be fishers because the Island was quite barren. We like wise saw several people upon the Shore in a small Bay on the Main within the Island.s At 7 the Southermost land in sight bore SWBS and Cape Kidnappers N3/4E distant 8 Leagues being then about 2 Leagues from the Shore and had 55 fathom water. At 11 brought too untill day light then made sail along shore to the Southward; at 7 past a pretty high point of Land which lies SSW, 12 Leagues from Cape Kidnappers,s from this point the land trends 3/4 of a point more to the Westward. At 10 saw more land oppen to the Southward at SWBS. At Noon the Southermost land in sight bore s 39o West distant 8 or 10 Leagues, and a high bluffhead with yellowish clifts bore west distant 2 Miles. Latd observe'd 40o34' South, depth of water 32 fm. TUESDAY 17<1th>1. PM Winds at West a fresh breeze in the night, Variable light Airs and Calm, AM a gentle breeze between the Nw and NE. Seeing no likelyhood of meeting with a harbour and the face of the Country Vissibly altering for the worse I thought that the standing farther to the South would not be attended with any Valuable dis- covery, but would be loosing of time which might be better employ'd and with a greater probabillity of Success in examining the Coast to the Northward;s with this View at 1 PM we tacked and stood to the Northward having the wind at west a fresh breeze, at this time we could see the land extending swBs at least 10 or 12 Leagues. The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast off at noon, I have calld <1Cape Turnagain>1s because here we returnd, it lies in the Latitude of 40o34' s, Longitude 182o56' Wests and 18 Leagues SSW and SSW1/2W from Cape Kidnappers. The land between them is of a very unequal height in some places it is high with white Clift[s] next the Sea, in others low with sandy beaches. The face of the Country 180] is not nearly so well clothed with wood as it is about Hawkes Bay but for the most part looks like our high Downs in England, and to all appearences well inhabited, for we saw several Villages as we run along shore not only in the Vallies but on the Tops and Sides of the Hills, and smooks in other places. The ridge of Mountains before mentioned extends to the Southward farther than we could see and are every where chequer'd with snow. This night Saw two very large fires up in the inland Country, a sure sign that it must be inhabited.s At Noon Cape Kidnappers bore No 56o West distant 7 Leagues. Latd. Obd. 39o52' s. WEDNESDAY 18<1th.>1 Variable light Wind and fine Weather. At 4 AM Cape Kidnappers bore N 32o West distant 2 Leagues, in this situation had 62 fn water, and when the said Cape bore wBN distant 3 or 4 Leagues had 45 fathom: Midway between the Isle of Portland and Cape Kidnappers had 65 fathom. At Noon the Isle of Portland bore NE1/2E distant 4 Leagues. Latitude Observ'd 39o34' S. THURSDAY 19<1th.>1 The first part had gentle breezes at East and ENE. In the night fresh gales between the South and SW, dark Clowdy weather, with Lightning and rain. At 1/2 past 5 PM Tacked and stood to the SE, the Isle of Portland bore SE distt 3 Leags. Soon after we tacked a boat or Canoe came off from the Shore wherein were five people. They came on board without shewing the least sign of fear and insisted upon staying with us the whole night, indeed there was no geting them away without turning them out of the ship by force and that I did not care to do, but to prevent thems playing us any tricks I hoisted thier Canoe up along side: two appear'd to be chiefs, and the other three their servants, one of the chiefs seem'd to be of a free open and gentle desposission. They both took great notice of every thing they saw and was very thankfull for what was given them; the two chiefs would neither eat nor drink with us,s but the other three eat whatever was offer'd them. Notwithstanding that these people had heard of the treatment the others had met with who hid been [181 on board before, yet it appear'd a little strange that they should place so much confidence in us as to put themselves wholy in our power wether we would or no, especially as the others we had met with in this Bay had upon every occation beheaved in a quite different manner. At 11 brought too untill day light (the night being dark and rainy) then made sail, at 7 AM brought too under Cape Table and sets away the Indian Canoe; at this time some others were puting off from the shore, but we did not wait their coming but made sail to the Northward. At Noon the northermost land in sight N 20o E, and Young Nicks head or the South point of Poverty Bay, West northerly near 4 Leags. Lat. Observ'd 38o44'30" South. FRIDAY 20<1th>1. PM A fresh breeze at ssw, in the night Variable light breezes with rain; AM a fresh breeze at SW. At 3 PM pass'd by a re- markable head Land which I call'd <1Gable-end Foreland>1 on account of the very great reseblence the white clift at the very point hath to the Gable end of a house, it is made still more remarkable by a spire'd rock standing a little distance from it. This head land lies from Cape Table N 24o East distant 12 Leagues, between them the Shore forms a Bay wherein lies Poverty Bay, 4 Leagues from the former and 8 Leagues from the latter. From Gable end Forland the land trends NBE as far as we could see: the land from Poverty Bay to this place is of a moderate but very unequal height distinguished by hills and Vallies that are cover'd with woods. We saw as we run along shore several Villages cultivated lands and some of the Natives, in the evening some Canoes came offto the Ship and one man came on board to whome we gave a few trifles and then sent him away. Stood off and on untill day light then made sail in shore in order to look into two Bays that appear'd to our View about 2 Leagues to the northward of the Foreland; the southermost we could not fetch, but in the other we anchor'd about 11 oClock in 7 fathom water a black sandy bottom; the North point bore NE1/2N distant 2 Miles and the s point SEBE distt 1 Mile and about 3/4 of a Mile from the Shore. This Bay is not so much shilterd from the sea as I at first thought it was, but as the Natives many of whome come about us in thier canoes, appear'd to be of a friendly disposission I was willing to try if we could not get a little water on board and to see a little into the nature of the Country before we proceed'd farther to the northward. SATURDAY 21<1st>1. We had no sooner come to an Anchor as mentioned above, than preceiving two old men in the Canoes, who from their garbe appear'd to be chiefs, these I invited on board and they came 182] without hesitation. To each I gave about 4 yards of Linnen and a Spike nail, the linnen they were very fond of, but the nails they seem'd to set no Value upon. Tupia explained to them the reasons of our comeing here and that we should neither hurt nor molest them if they did but behave in the same peaceable manner to us, indeed we were under very little apprehension but what they would as they had heard of what happend in Poverty bay. Between 1 and 2 PM I put off with the Boats man'd and Arm'd in order to land to look for fresh water, having these 2 Men along with us, but the surf runing very high and it begun to blow and rain at the same time, I return'd back to the Ship having first put the 2 Chiefs into one of their Canoes.s In the Evening it fell Moderate and we landed and found 2 small streams of fresh water and the natives to all appearences very friendly and peaceable, on which account I resolved to stay one day at leasts to fill a little water and to give Mr Banks an oppertunity to Collect a little of the produce of the Country. In the Morning Lieutt Gore went ashore to superintend the watering with a strong party of men, but the geting the Casks offwas so very difficult on account of the surff, that it was near noon before one turn came on board.s SUNDAY 22<1nd>1. PM Light breezes and Clowdy. About or a little after noon several of the natives came off to the Ship in their Canoes and began to traffic with us, our people giving them Georges Island Cloth for theirs, for they had little else to dispose of. This kind of exchange they seemd at first very fond of and prefer'd the Cloth we had got at the Islands to English Cloth,s but it fell in its Value above 500 per cent before night. I had some of them on board and shewed them the Ship with which they were well pleased. The same friendly disposission was observe'd by those on Shore and upon the whole they behaved as well or better than one could expect, But as the geting the Water from the shore proved so very tedious on account of the surf, I resolved upon leaving this place in the morning and Accordingly at 5 AM we weigh'd and put to Sea. This [183 Bay is called by the Natives <1Tegadoo,>1s it lies in the Latitude of 38o16' but as it hath nothing to recommend it so I shall give no discription of it. There is plenty of wild sellery and we purchased of the natives about 1o or 15 pounds of sweet Potatous, they have pretty large Plantations of these,s but at present they are scarce it being too early in the season. At Noon, the Bay of Tegadoo bore w1/2s distant 8 Leagues and a very high doubled peek'd Mountain some distance in land bore NWBW. Latd Observ'd 38o13'. Winds at North a fresh gale. MONDAY 23rd. PM fresh gales at North and Clowdy weather. At I Tacked and stood in shore, at 6 sounded and had 56 fath. a fine sandy bottom, the Bay of Tegadoo bore sw1/2w distant 4 Leagues. At 8 Tacked in 36 fathom being then about two Leagues from land. Stood off and on all night having gentle breezes. At 8 AM being right before the Bay of Tegadoo and about a League from it, some of the natives came offto us, and inform'd us that in a Bay a little to the southward (being the same that we could not fetch the day we put into Tegadoo) was fresh water and easy geting at it, and as the wind was now against us and we got nothing by beating to windward, I thought the time would be better spent in this Bay in geting on board a little water and forming some connections with the natives than by keeping the sea. With this View we bore up for it and sent two Boats in Man'd and Arm'd to examine the watering place who returnd about noon and conform'd the accot the Natives had given. We then anchord in 11 fathom water a fine sandy bottom--the North point of the Bay NBE and the south point SE and the watering place which was in a small Coves a little within the South pt of the bay SBE distant 1 Mile. TUESDAY 24<1th.>1 Winds Westerly and fine weather. This afternoon, as soon as the Ship was moor'd, I went ashore to examine the Watering place, accompan'd by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. I found the water good and the place pretty convenient, and plenty of Wood close to 184] high water mark and the natives to all appearence not only very friendly, but ready to traffic with us for what little they had. Early in the Morning I sent Lieutenant Gore a Shore to superintend the Cuting Wood and filling of Water with a Sufficient number of men for both purposes and all the Marines as a guard; after breakfast I went my self and remain'd there the whole day, but before this Mr Green and I took several observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean result of them gave 180o47' West Longd. from the Meridian of Greenwich but as all the obserns made before exceeded these I have laid down this coast agreeable to the mean of the whole. At Noon I took the Suns Meridian Altd with the Astros Quadt and found the Latitude to be 38o22'24" s. WEDNESDAY 25<1th.>1 Winds and weather as yesterday. PM set up the Armourer's Forge to repair the Tiller braces, they being broke; by night we had got on board 12 Ton of water and two or three boat loads of wood, and this I looked upon to be a good days work. The natives gave us not the least disturbance, but brought us now and then different sorts of fish, both to the Ship and watering place which we purchased of them with Cloth beeds &ca. THURSDAY 26<1th.>1 PM had the winds from between the South and SW, fair weather; the remainder rainy dirty weather, notwithstanding we continued geting on board Wood and Water. FRIDAY 27<1th.>1 Winds at sw, first part rainy weather the remainder fair. AM sent the Pinnace to dridges but she met with no success; after this I went and soundd the Bay. I made a shift to land in two places, the first time in the bottom of the Bay where I went a little way into the Country but met with nothing extraordinaory, the other place I landed at was at the north point of the Bay where I got as much Sellery and Scurvy grasss as loaded the Boat. This day we compleated our water to 70 Tons but have not got wood enough. SATURDAY 28<1th.>1 Gentle breezes southerly and fine weather. Em- ploy'd Wooding, cuting of Broom stuff and making of Brooms, there being a shrub here very fit for that purpose:s and as I intends to sail [185 in the morning some hands were employ'd picking of Sellery to take to sea with us, this is found here in great plenty and I have caused it to be boild with Portable Soup and Oatmeal every morning for the Peoples breakfast, and this I design to continue as long as it will last or any is to be got, because I look upon it to be very wholesome and a great Antiscorbutick. SUNDAY 29<1th.>1 PM Gentle breezes at NE with Thunder and lightning up in the Country, in the night had light airs off the land and very Foggy: in the forenoon had a gentle breeze at NNE and Clear wear. At 4 AM Unmoor'd and at 6 Weigh'd and put to sea.s At Noon the Bay saild from bore North 63o W distant 4 Leagues. This Bay is call'd by the Natives <1Tolaga.>1s It is moderatly large and hath in it from 13 to 8 and 7 fathom a Clean sandy bottom and good Anchorage and is shelterd from all winds except those that blow from the NE quarter. It lies in the Latitude of 38o22' s and 41/2 Leagues to the northward of Gable end Foreland. Off the South point lies a small, but high Island so near to the main as not to be distinguished from it,s close to the north end of this Island at the entrance into the Bay are two high rocks, the one is high and round like a corn stack but the other is long with holes thro' it like the arches of a bridge. Within these rocks is the Cove where we cut wood and fill'd our water: off the north point of the Bay is a pretty high rocky Islands and about a mile without it are some rocks and breakers. The Variation of the Compass is here 14o31' East and the Tide flows at full and change of the Moon about 6 oClock and rises and falls upon a per- pendicular 5 or 6 feet, but whither the flood comes from the South- ward or northward I have not been able to determine. 186] During our stay in this Bay we had every day more or less traffic with the Natives, they bringing us fish and now and then a few sweet Potatoes and several trifles which we deem'd curiosities for these we gave them cloth, Beeds nails &ca. The Cloth we got at King Georges Island and Uliatea they Valued more than any thing we could give them and as every one in the Ship were provided with some of this sort of Cloth, I suffer'd every body to purchase what ever they pleased without limitation, for by this means I knew that the natives would not only sell, but get a good price for every thing they brought; this I thought would induce them to bring to market what ever the Country afforded and I have great reason to think that they did, yet it amounted to no more than what is above mention'd. We saw no four footed Animals either tame or wild or signs of any except Dogs and Rattss and these were very scarce especialy the latter, the flesh of the former they eat and ornament their clothing with their skins as we do ours with furs &ca. While we lay here I went upon some of the Hills in order to view the Country, but when I came there I could see but very little of it, the sight being interrupted by still higher hills; the tops and ridges of the hills are for the most part barren, at least little grows on them but fern. But, the Vallies and sides of many of the Hills were luxuriously clothed with Woods and Verdure and little Plantations of the Natives lying dispers'd up and down the Country. We found in the woods Trees of above 2o different sorts, specimens of each I took on board as all of them were unknown to any of us: the tree which we cut for fireing was something like Maple and yielded a whitish Gum,s there was another sort of a deep yallow which we imagined might prove usefull in dying.s We likewise found one Cabbage tree which we cut down for the sake of the Cabbage.s The Country abounds with a great number of Plants and the Woods with as great a Variety of very beautifull Birds, many of them un- known to us. The soil both of the hills and Vallies is light and sandy and very proper for produceing all kinds of Roots but we saw only sweet Potatous and Yamms among them; these they plant in little round hills, and have plantations of them containing several Acres [187 neatly laid out and kept in good order, and many of them are fence'd in with low pailing which can only serve for ornament.s MONDAY 30<1th.>1 PM Little wind and clowdy weather. At <11>1 Tack'd and stood in shore. At 7 oClock Tolaga Bay bore West North West distant one League. Tacked and lay her head off; had it Calm, untill 2 AM When a breeze sprung up at sw and we made sail to the north- ward. At 6 Gable end Foreland bore ssw and Tolaga Bay SSW1/4W distant 3 Leagues. At 8 being about 2 Miles from the shore some Canoes that were out fishing came after the Ship, but we having a fresh of wind they could not come up with us and I did not chuse to wait for them. At Noon latitude in pr observation 37o49' s, a small Island lying off the northermost land in sight bore N 16o E distant 4 Miles. Course from Tolaga Bay NBE1/2E distant 13 Leagues. The Land from thence is of a moderate but unequal height forming several small Bays wherein are sandy beaches. Hazey Clowdy weather prevented us from seeing much of the inland country but near the Shore we could see several Villages and Plantations of the Natives. Sounding from 20 to 30 faths TUESDAY 31<1st.>1 At half past one PM hauled round the Island above mentioned which lies East one mile from the NE Point of the land, the land from hence trends NWBW and WNW as far as we could see. This Point of land I have called <1East Cape>1s because I have great reason to think that it is the Eastermost land on this whole Coast, and for the 188] same reason I have called the Island which lays of[f] it <1East Island,>1 it is but of a small circuit high and round and appears white and barren. The Cape is of a moderate height with white Clifts and lies in the Latitude of 37o42'30" South and Longitude 181o00' West from the Meridion of Greenwich.s After we had rounded the East Cape we saw as we run along shore a great number of Villages and a great deal of Cultivated land and in general the Country appeard with more fertillity than what we had seen before, it was low near the sea but hilly inland. At 8 being 8 Leagues to the westward of Cape East and 3 or 4 Miles from the shore shortend sail and brought too for the night having at this time a fresh gale at SSE and Squally weather; but it soon fell Moderate and At 2 AM made sail again to the sw as the land now trended. At 8 saw land which made like an Island bearing west,s at the same time the swermost part of the Main land bore sw. At 9 Five Canoes came off to us, in one of which were upwards of 40 Mens all Arm'd with Pikes &ca from this and other circumstances it fully appear'd that they came with no friendly intention, and I at this time being very busey and had no inclination to stay upon deck to watch their motions, I order'd a grape shot to be fired a little wide of them. This made them pull off a little and then they got together either to consult what to do or to look about them, upon this I order'd a round shot to be fired over their heads which frightend them to that degree that I believe they did not think them selves safe untill they got ashore; this occasion'd our calling the point of land offwhich this Happen'd <1Cape Runaway>1 (Latde 37o32' Longde <1181>1o50') and 17 or 18 Leagues to the westward of East Cape. Four Leagues to the west- ward of the East Cape is a Bay which I have named <1Hicks's Bay>1 because Lieutt Hicks was the first who discover'd it. [NOVEMBER 1769] WEDNESDAY November <11st.>1 PM As we stood along shore, (having little wind and Variable) we saw a great deal of Cultivated land laid out in regular inclosures a sure sign that the Country is both fertile [189 and well inhabited; some Canoes came off from the Shore but would not come near the Ship. At 8 brought too 3 Miles from the shore, the land seen yesterday bearing west and which we now saw was an Island bore sws distant 8 Leagues. I have named it <1whitc Island>1 because as such it always appear'd to us. At 5 AM made sail along shore to the SW having little wind at ESE and Clowdy weather. At 8 saw between 4o and 5o Canoes in shore, several of them came off to the Ship and after being about us some time they venterd along side and sold us some Lobster Mussels and two Conger ells.s After these were gone some others came off from a nother place with mussels only and but few of these they thought proper to part with, thinking that they had a right to every thing we handed them into their boatss without makeing any return. At last the people in one Canoe took away some linnen that was towing over the side which they would not return for all that we could say to them; upon this I fire'd a Musquet ball thro' the boat, and after that another musquet load[ed] with sma neither of which they minded, only pull'd off a little and then shook their paddles at us, at which I fired a third musquet and the ball striking the water pretty near them, they immidiatly apply'd their paddles to a nother use, but after they thought themselves out of reach, they got all together and shook again their paddles at us.s I then gave the Ship a yaw and fire'd a four pounder this sent them quite off and we kept on our Course along shore having a light breeze at ESE. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 37o45', White Island bear- ings N 29o West distant 8 Leagues. THURSDAY 2<1nd.>1 Gentle breeze from NW round northerly to ESE and fair weather. At 2 PM saw a pretty high Island bearing west from us and at 5 Saw more Islands and Rocks to the westward of it; hauld our wind in order to go without them but finding that we could not weather them before dark bore up and run between them and the main. At 7 was close under the first Island from whence a large double Canoe full of people came off to us, this was the first double Canoe we had seen in this Country. They stayd about the Ship untill 190] dark then left us, but not before they had thrown a few stones: they told us the name of the Island which was <1Mowtohora,>1s it is but of a small circuit but high and lies 6 Miles from the Main, under the south side is anchorage in 14 fathom water. swBs from this Island on the main land, seemingly at no great distance from the sea is a high round mountain which I have named <1Mount Edgecomb,>1sit stands in the middle of a large planes which makes it the more conspicuous. Latitude 37o59' Longd 183o07'. In standing to the westward we shoalden'd our water from 17 to 10 fathom, and knowing that we were not far from some small Islands, and Rocks that we had seen before dark, after passing of which I intended to have brought too for the night, but now I thought it more prudent to tack and spend the night under the Island Mowtohora where I knowd there was no danger, and it was well we did for in the morning, after we had made sail to the westward we discover'd ahead of us Rocks level with and under water; they lay 11/2 League from the Island Mowtohora and about 9 Miles from the Main and NNE from Mount Edgcumbe. We pass'd between these rocks and the Main having from 7 to 10 fathom water. The Double Canoe which we saw last night follow'd us again to day under sail and kept abreast of the Ship near an houre talking to Tupia, but at last they began to pelt us with stones but upon fireing one Musquet they drop'd a stern and left us.s At half past 10 pass'd between a low flat Islands and the Main the distance from one to the other being 4 Miles, depth of water, 10, 12 and 15 fathom. At Noon the Flat Island bore from NE to E1/2N distant 5 or 6 Miles, Latitude in per Observation 37o39' s Longd in 183o 30'. The Main land between this and the Island of Mowtohorawhich is [10] Leaguess is of a Moder- [191 ate height and all a level flat Country pritty clear of wood and full of Plantations and Villages; the Villages are built upon eminences near the Sea, and are fortified on the land side with a Bank and a Ditch, and Pallisaded all round, besides this some of them appear'd to have out works. We have before now observed on several parts of the Coast small Villages inclosed with Pallisades, and Works of this kind built on eminences and ridges of hills, but Tupia hath all along told us that they were Mories or places of Worship, but I rather think that they are places of retreat or Stronghold where they defend themselves againest the Attack of an Enimy as some of them seem'd not ill design'd for that purpose.s FRIDAY 3<1rd.>1 PM Fresh gales at NEBE and hazey weather. At 2 pass'd a small high Island lying 4 Miles from a high round heads on the Main, from this head the land trends NW as far as we could see and appear'd to be very rugged and hilly. The weather being very hazey and the wind blowing fresh on Shore, we ha[u]led off Close upon a a wind for the weathermost Island in sight which bore from us NNE distant 6 or 7 Leagues: Under this Island we spent the night having a fresh gale at NE & NEBE and hazey weather with rain: this Island I have call'd the <1Mayor.>1 At 7 AM it bore South 47o East distant 6 Leagues and a Cluster of small Islands and Rocks bore N1/2E distant one League. At this time had a gentle breeze at ENE and clear weather. The cluster of Islands and Rocks just mention'd we named the <1Court of>1 192] <1Aldermen,>1s they lay in the compass of about half a league every way and 5 Leagues from the main between which and them lay other Islands, the most of them are barren rocks and of these there is a very great Variety, some of them are of as small a compass as the Moniment in London and spire up to a much greater hieght; they lay in the Lati- tude of 36o57' and some of them are inhabited. At Noon they bore s 60o East distant 3 or 4 Leagues, and a Rock like a Castleslying not far from the main bore N 40o West one League, Latd Observed 36o58' s. Course and distances sence yesterday at Noon is NNW1/2W about 2o Legs. In this situation had 28 fathom water and a great many small Islands and Rocks on every side of us. The Main land appears here with a hilly, rugged and barren surface, no Plantations to be seen nor no other signs ofits being well Inhabited. SATURDAY 4<1th.>1 The first and Middle parts little wind at ENE and clear weather: the latter had a fresh breeze at NNw and hazey with rain. At 1 PM three Canoes Came off from the Main to the Ship and after parading about a little while they darted two pikes at us, the first was at one of our men as he was going to give them a rope thinking that they were coming on board, but the second they throw'd into the Ship,s the fireing of one Musquet sent them away Each of these Canoes were made out of one large tree and were without any sort of ornament and the people in them were mostly quite naked. At 2 PM saw a large opening or inlet in the land which we bore up for, with an intent to come to an Anchor; at this time had 41 fathom water which gradually decreased to 9 fathom at which time we were 11/2 Miles from a high tower'd rocks lying near the South pt of the inlet, the Rock and the northermost of the Court of Alder- men being in one bearing s 61o E. At half past 7 Anchor'd in 7 fathom a little within the south entrance of the Bay or inlet. We were Accompaned in here by several Canoes, who stay'd about the Ship untill dark, and before they went away they were so generous as to tell us that they would come and attack us in the morning, but some of them paid us a Veset in the night, thinking no doubt but what they should find all hands a sleep, but as soon as they found their mistake they went off. My reasons for puting in here were the hopes of dis- [193 covering a good Harbour and the disire I had of being in some con- venient place to observe the Transit of Mercury which happens on the 9th Instant and will be wholy Visible here if the day is clear. If we should be so fortunate as to Obtain this Observation the Longi- tude of this place and Country will thereby be very accuratly determined. Between 5 and 6 oClock in the Morning several Canoes came to us from all Parts of the Bay; in them were about 130 or 140 People, to all appearences their first design was to attack us being all com- pleatly Arm'd in their way; however this they never attempted but after Parading about the Ship near three hours, some times trading with us and at other times tricking of us, they disperse'd but not before we had fired a few Musquets and one great gun, not with any design to hurt any of them, but to shew them what sort of Weaphons we had and that we could revenge any insult they offer'd to us.s It was observable that they paid but little regard to the Musquets that were fire'd notwithstanding one ball was fired thro' one of their Canoes, but what effect the great gun had I know not for this was not fired untill they were going away.s At 10 the weather clearing up a little I went with 2 boats to sound the Bay and to look for a more convenient Anchoring place, the Master being in one boat and I in the other. We pull'd first over to the North shore, where some Canoes came out to meet us, but as we came near them they retired to the Shore and invited us to follow them, but seeing that they were all arm'd I did not think fit to except of their invitation, but after trading with them out of the boat a few minutes, we left them and went towards the head of the [bay]. I observed on a high po[i]nt a fortified Village but I could only see a part of the woorks, and as I intend to see the whole shall say no more about it at this time. After having fix'd upon an Anchoring place not far from where the Ship lay I returnd on board. SUNDAY 5<1th.>1 Winds at NNw, Hazey weather with rain in the night. At 4 PM wieghd run in nearer the South shore and Anchord in 41/2 fathom water a Soft sandy bottom,s the south point of the Bay bearing 194] East distant <11>1 Mile and a River into which the Boats can go at low water ssE distant 11/2 Mile. In the Morning the Natives came off again to the Ship but their behavour was very different to what it was yestermorning and the little traffick we had with them was carried on very fair and friendly. Twos came on board the Ship to each I gave a piece of English Cloth and some Spike nails. After the natives were gone I went with the Pinnace and Long- boat into the River to haule the Sene and sent the Master to sound the Bay and dridges for fish in the yawl. We hauled the Sene in several places in the River but caught only a few Mullet,s with which we return'd on board about noon.s MONDAY 6<1th.>1 Moderate breezes at NNW and hazey weather with rain in the night. PM I went to a nother part of the Bay to haule the sene but rnet with as little success as before and the Master did not get above half a Bucket full of shells with the dridges. The Natives brought to the Ship and sold to our people, small Cockles, Clams and Mussels enough for all hands, these are found in great plenty upon the Sand banks of the River. In the Morning I sent the Long-boat to Trawl in the Bay, and ah officer with the Marines and a party of men to cut wood and hale the sene, but neither the sene nor the Trawl met with any success, but the natives in some measure made up for this by bringing several baskets of dry'd or ready dress'd fish, altho it was none of the best I order'd it all to be bought up in order to incourage them to trade. TUESDAY 7<1th.>1 The first part Moderate and fair, the remainder a fresh breeze northerly with dirty hazey rainy weather. PM got on board a Long-boat Load of water and caught a dish of fish in the Sene; found here great quantity of sellery which is boild every day for the Ships Compney as usual. WEDNESDAY 8<1th.>1 PM Fresh breeze at NNw and hazey rainy weather, the remainder a gentle breeze at wsw and Clear weather. AM heel'd and scrubed both sides of the Ship and sent a party of men a Shore to Cut wood and fill water. The Natives brought of to the Ship and sold [195 us for small peeces of Cloth as much fish as served all hands, they were of the Mackarel kinds and as good as ever was eat. At Noon I observed the Suns Meridian Zenith distance by the Astromical Quadrant which gave the Latitude 36o47'43" s, this was in the River beformentioned, that lies within the s entrs of ye Bay. THURSDAY 9<1th.>1 Variable light breezes and clear weather. As soon as it was day light the Natives began to bring off Mackarel and more then we well know'd what to do with, notwithstanding I orderd all they brought to be purchas'd in order to incourage them in this kind of traffick. At 8 Mr Green and I went on shore with our Instru- ments to Observe the Transit of Mercury which came on at 7h 20'58" Apparent time and was Observed by Mr Green only. I at this time was taking the Suns Altitude in order to asertain the time.s The Egress was observed as followes. h ' " By Mr Green Internal Contact at 12 8 58 afternoon External Contact- 12 9 55 By My self Internal Contact at 12 8 45 Dos External Contact- 12 9 43 Latitude observed at Noon 36o48'28", the Mean of this and yester- days observation gives 46s48'51/2 s, the Latitude of the place of Ob- servation, and the Variation of the Compass was at this time found to be 11 o9' East. While we were making these observations five Canoes came along side of the Ship, two large and three small ones, in one were 47 people but in the others not so many. They were wholy strangers to us and to all appearence they came with a hostal intention, being compleatly arm'd with Pikes, Darts, Stones &ca how- ever they made no attempt and this was very probable owing to their being inform'd by some other Canoes (who at this time were along side selling fish) what sort of people they had to deal with. At their first coming along side they begun to sell our people some of their Arms and one Man offer'd to sale an Haa~how,s that is a square pice of 196] Cloth such as they wear. Lieutt Gore, who at this time was Command- ing officer, sent in to the Canoe a peice of Cloth which the man had agreed to take in exchange for his, but as soon as he had got Mr Gore's Cloth in his posission he would not part with his own, but put off the Canoe from along side and then shook their paddles at the People in the Ship. Upon this Mr Gore fired a Musquet at them and from what I can learn kill'd the man who tooke the Cloth, after this they soon went away. I have here inserted the account of this affair just as I had it from Mr Gore but I must own that it did not meet with my approbation because I thought the punishment a little too severe for the Crime, and we had now been long enough acquainted with these People to know how to chastise trifling faults like this without taking away their lives.s FRIDAY 10<1th.>1 PM Gentle breezes and Varble, the remainder a Strong breeze at ENE and Hazey weather. AM I went with two Boats accom- paned by Mr Banks and the other gentlemen into the River which empties it self into the head of this Bay in order to examine it. None of the Natives came off to the Ship this morning which we think is owing to the bad weather. SATURDAY 11<1th.>1 Fresh gales at ENE and Clowdy hazey weather with rain. Between 7 and 8 oClock PM I returnd on board from out of the River having been about 4 or 5 Miles up it and could have gone much farther had the weather been favourable. I landed on the East side and went up on the hills from whence I saw or at least I thought I saw the head of the River, it here branched into several Channels and form'd a number of very low flat Islands all cover'd with a sort of Mangrove trees and several places of the Shores of both sides of the [197 River were cover'd with the same sort of wood:s the sand banks were well store'd with Cockles, and clams and in many places were Rock Oysters.s Here is likewise pretty plenty of wild Foul, such as Shags, Ducks, Curlews,s and a Black Bird about as big as a Crow, with a long sharp bill of a Colour between Red and yellow.s We also saw fish in the River but of what sort I know not. The Country Especialy on the East side is barren and for the most part distitute of wood or any other signs of fertillity but the face of the Country on the other side looked much better and is in many places cover'd with wood. We met with some of the natives and saw several more and smookes a long way inland, but saw not the least sign of cultivation either here or in any part about the Bay, so that the Inhabitents must live wholy on shell and other Fishs and Fern roots which they eat by way of bread. In the entrance of this River and for 2 or 3 Miles up itis very safe and commodious Anchoring in 3, 4 and 5 fathom water, and convenient places for laying a Vessel a shore where the Tides rises and falls about 7 feet and flowss full and change. I could not see whether or no any considerable fresh water stream came out of the Country into this River but there are a number of small Rivulets which come from the adjacent hills. A little with[in] the entrance of the river on the East side is a high point or peninsulas juting out into the River on which are the remains of one of thier Fortified towns, the Situation is such that the best Engineer in Europe could not have choose'd a better for a small number of men to defend themselves against a greater, it is strong by nature and made more so by Art. It is only accessible on the land side, and there have been cut a Ditch and a bank raised on the inside, from the top of the bank to the bottom of the ditch was about 22 feet and depth 198] of the ditch on the land side 14 feet; its breadth was in proportion to its depth and the whole seem'd to have been done with great judge- ment. There had been a row of Pickets on the top of the bank and another on the outside of the ditch, these last had been set deep in the ground and sloaping with their upper ends hanging over the ditch; the whole had been burnt down, so that it is probable that this place has been taken and distroy'd by an Enimy. The people on this side of the Bay seem now to have no houses or fix'd habitations but sleep in the open air, under trees and in small temporary shades,s but to all appearence they are better of on the other side but there we have not yet set foot. In the Morning being dirty rainy weather I did not expect any of the Natives off with fish, but thinking that they might have some a shore, I sent a boat with some trade who returnd about noon load[ed] with oysters which they got in the River which is abreast of the Ship, but saw no fish among the natives. SUNDAY 12<1th.>1 PM had strong gales at NE and hazey rainy weather, AM a fresh breeze at Nw and Clear weather. In the morning got on board a turn of water and after wards sent the Long-boat into the River for Oysters to take to sea with us, and I went with the Pinnace and Yawl accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, over to the North side of the Bay in order to take a View of the Country and the Fortified Village which stands their; we landed about a Mile from it and were met by the Inhabitants in our way thether who with a great deal of good nature and friendship conducted us into the place and shewed us every thing that was there. This Village is built upon a high promontory or point on the north side and near the head of the Bay.s It is in some places quite inacces- sible to man and in others very difficult except on that side which face'd the narrow ridge of the hill on which it stands, here it is defended by a double ditch a bank and two rows of Picketing--the inner row upon the bank but not so near the Crown but what there was good room for men to walk and handle their arms between the Picketing and the inner dich: the outer Picketing was between the two ditches and laid sloaping with their upper ends hanging over the inner ditch, the depth of this ditch from the bottom to the Crown of [199 the bank was [24]s feet. Close within the inner picketing was erre[c]ted by strong posts, a stage [30]s feet high [40]s in length and 6 feet broad, the use of this stage was to stand upon to throw darts at the Assailants, and a number of darts lay upon it for that purpose. At right Angles to this stage and a few paces from it was a nother of the same con- struction and bigness, this stood likewise within the Picketing and was intended for the same use as the other, viz. to stand upon to throw stones and darts upon the Enimy as they advanced up the side of the Hill where lay the main way into the place; it likewase might be intend[ed] to defend some little out woorks and hutts that lay at the skirt and on this side of the hill, these out woorks were not intended as advanced Posts but for such of the Inhabitents to live in as had not room in the main work but had taken shelter under it. Besides the works on the land side above described the whole Village was pallisaded round with a line of pretty strong picketing run round the edge of the hill. The ground within having not been level at first but laid sloaping, they had divided it into little squares and leveled each of these; these squares lay in the form of an amphitheatre and were each of them pallisaded round and had a comunication one with a nother by narrow lanes or little gate ways which could easily be stoped up, so that if any enimy had force'd the outer picketing he had several others to incounter before the place could be wholy reduced, supposing them to defend every one of the places one after another. The Main way leading into this fortification was up a very steep part of the hill and thro' a narrow passage about 12 feet long, and under one of the Stages; I saw no door or gate but it might very soon have been barricaded up. Upon the whole I looked up[on] it to be a very strong and well choose post and where a small number of resolute men might defend them selves a long time against a vast superior force, Arm'd in the manner as these people are. These seem'd to be prepared against a seige having laid up in store an immence quantity of firn roots and a good many dry'd fish, but we did not see that they had any fresh water nearer then a brook which runs close under the foot of the hill, from which I suppose they can at times get Water, tho beseiged and keep it in Gourds untill they use it. Under the foot of the point on which this Village stands are 2 Rocks the one just broke off from the Main and other detatched a little from it, they are both very small and more fit for birds to inhabit than men yet there are house[s] and places of defence on each of them, and about a 200] Mile to the Eastward of these is a nother of these small fortified Rocks which communicates with the Main by a narrow pathway where there is a small Village of the natives;s many works of this kind we have seen upon small Islands and Rocks and Ridges of hills on all parts of this Coast besides a great number of fortified towns, to all appearences Vastly superior to this I have described. From this it should seem that this people must have long and frequent wars, and must have been long accustom'd to it otherwise they never would have invented such strong holds as these, the errect- ing of which must cost them immence labour considering the tools they have to work with which are only made of wood & stone. It is a little strange that with such a warlike people as these un- doubtedly are no Omissive weapons are found a mong them such as Bows and Arrows, Slings &ca things in themselves so easy invented and are common in every other part of the world. The Arms they use are Long spears or lances,s a Staff about 5 feet long, some of these are pointed at one end like a Serjeants Halbard others are round and sharp, the other ends are broad something like the blade of an oar;s they have another sort about 41/2 feet long, these are shaped at one end like an Axe and the other is made with a sharp point;s they have short Truncheons about a foot long, which they call Pattoo Pattoos,s some made of wood some of bone and others of stone, those made of wood are variously shaped, but those made of bone and stone are of one shape, which is with a round handle a broadish blade which is thickest in the middle and tapers to an edge all round, the use of these are to knock mens brains out and to kill them outright after they are [201 wounded: and they are certainly well contrived things for this pur- pose. Besides these weapons they throw stones and darts, the darts are 10 or 12 feet long, are made of hard wood and are barb'ds at one end. They handle all their arms with great Agility particularly their long Pikes or Lances, againest which we have no weapon that is an equal match except a loaded Musquet.s MONDAY 13<1th.>1 PM Gentle breezes at Nw and clear weather. After taking a slight View of the Country and loading both boats with Sellery, which we found in great plenty near the sea beach, we return'd on board about 5 oClock, the Long-boat at the same time returnd out of the River loaded as deep as she could swim with oysters, and now I intended to put to sea in the morning if wind and weather will permit. In the night had the wind at sE with rainy dirty hazey weather which continued all day, so that I could not think of sailing but thought my self very happy in being in a good port.s Saml Jones seaman having been confined on Saturday last for refuseing to come upon deck when all hands were called and afterwards refuse'd to comply with the orders of the officer on deck, he was this morning punished with 12 lashes and remited back to confinement. TUESDAY 14<1th.>1 Fresh gales Easterly & rainy dirty weather. WEDNESDAY 15<1th.>1 In the evening I went in the Pinnace and landed upon one of the Island[s] that lies off the South head of the Bay, with a View to see if I could discover any sunken rocks or other dangers lying before the entrence of the bay as there was a pretty large swell at this time. The Island we landed upon was very smalls yet there 202] were upon it a Village the Inhabitants of which received us very friendly; this little Village was laid out in small oblong squares and each pallisaded round. The Island afforded no fresh water and was only accessible on one side, from this I concluded that it was not choose for any conveniencey it could afford them but for its natural strength.s At 7 AM weigh'd with a light breeze at West and clear weather, and made sail out of the Bays steering NE for the Northeastermost of a number of Islands lying off the North Point of the Bay, these Islands are of various extent and ly scattered to the NW in a parallel deriction with the Main as far as we could see. I was at first afraid to go within them thinking that there was no safe Passage, but I afterwards thought that we might and I would have attempted it but the wind comeing to the Nw prevented it; so that we were obliged to Stand out to sea. At Noon was in the Latitude of 36o46' s. The northermost Island above mentioned bore North distant half a League, the Court of Aldermen SEBs distt 6 Leagues and the Bay saild from, which I have named <1Mercury Bay>1 on accot of the observn be[ing] made there's SWBW distant 6 Miles. <1Mercury Bay>1 lies in the Latitude of 36o47' s and in the Longitude of 184o4' w from the Meridion of Greenwich, it lies in sw between 2 & 3 Leagues. There are several Islands lying both to the Southward and northward of it and a small high Island or Rock in the Middle of the entrance, within this Island the depth of water doth no where exceed 9 or 8 fathom. The best anchorage is in a sandy bay which lies just within the south head, in 5 and 4 fm bringing a high tower rock which lies without the head in one with the head, or just shut in behind it, here it is very convenient Wooding and watering, and in the River are an immence quantity of Oysters and other small shell fish, and this is the only thing it is remarkable fore and hath occa- tioned my giving it the name of <1Oyster River.>1 [203 But the Snugest and safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay here any time is in the River at the head of the Bay and where there are every conveniency the place can afford. To sail up and into it keep the South shore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had any name for this River I have calld it the <1River of>1 <1Mangroves>1s because of the great quantity of these trees that are found in it. The Country on the SE side of this River and Bay is very barren produceing little but Fern and such other Plants as delight in a poor soil. The land on the Nw side is pretty well cover'd with Wood, the soil more fertile and would no doubt produce the necessarys of life was it cultivated. However thus much must be said againest it, that it is not near so rich and fertile as the lands we have seen to Southward, and the same may be said of its Inhabitants who altho pretty numerous are poor to the highest degree when compair'd to others we have seen; they have no plantations but live wholy on Fern roots and fish, their canoes are mean and without ornament, and so are their houses or hutts and in general every thing they have about them. This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are certainly ingaged, strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who re- sided near the place where we wooded and who slept every night in the open air place'd themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep as plainly shewed that it was necessary for them to be always upon their guard. They do not own subjection to <1Teeratu>1s the Earee de hi, but say that he would kill them was he to come a mong them. They confirm the custom of eating their enimies so that this is a thing no longer to be doubted. I have before observed that many of the people about this bay had no fix'd habitations and we thought so then, but have sence learnt that they have strong holds or Hippa's as they call them, which they retire to in time of danger. We found thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay quantities of Iron Sand which is brought down out of the Country by almost every little frish water brook, this proves that there must be of that ore not far inland.s Neither the Inhabitants of this place or any other where we have been know the use of Iron, or set the least Value upon it, prefering the most trifleing thing we could give them to a 204] nail or any sort of Iron tools. Before we left this Bay we cut out upon one of the trees near the watering place, the Ships Name, date &cs and after displaying the English Colours I took formal posession of the place in the name of His Majesty. THURSDAY 16<1th.>1 Fresh breezes between the Nw and sw and fair weather. At 1 PM having got without the Group of Islands which lies of the North head of Mercury Bay,s haul'd our wind to the northward and kept plying to windward all this day between these Islands and some others laying to the Northward of them,s with a View to get under the Main land, the extreem Nw point of which that we could see at noon bore WBN distant 6-8 Leagues. Latd in per observation 36o33's. Note, In speaking of Mercury Bay I had forgot to mention that the Mangrove trees found there produce a resinous substance very much like rosin, something of this kind I am told is found in both the East and West Indias. We found it at first in small lumps upon the Sea beach, but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove trees and by that means found out from whence it came.s FRIDAY 17<1th.>1 The fore and middle parts had fresh gales between the sw and wBs, and squally; kept plying to windward in order to get under the land. At 6 AM fetched close under the lee of the norther- most Island in sight, then tacked and stood to the Southward untill a 11 when we tack'd and stood to the Nd; the North head of Mercury Bay or <1Point Mercury>1s bore SEBE distant 3 Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the main land and a breast of a place where there appear'd to be a Harbour,s but the heavy squales which we had from the land would not permit us to take a nearer view of it but soon brought us under our close reef'd topsails. At Noon the Point Mercury bore SE distant 4 Leagues and the Westermost point of the Main land in sight bore N 60o w distant 5 Leagues. Over the Nw side of Mercury Bay is a pretty high round hills riseing sloaping from the Shore of the Bay, this hill is very conspicuous from where we now are. 205] SATURDAY 18<1th.>1 First part Strong gales at sw and ssw with havy squales, in the Morning had gentle breezes at s and sE, towards noon had whifling light airs all round the Compass. Kept Plying to wind- ward under Close reef'd Topsls untill day light AM at which time we had got close under the Main, and the wind coming at SE we made sail and steerd NWBW as the land lays, keeping close in shore. At 6 we pass a small Bays wherein their appear'd to [be] Anchorage and pretty good shelter from the sea winds, at the entrence of which lies a Rock pretty high above water. 4 Miles farther to the west N West is a very conspicuous promontory or point of lands which we got a breast of by 7 oClock. It lies in the Latitude of 36o26' s and N 48o West 9 Leagues from Point Mercury. From this point the land trends w-1/2s near one League then SSE as far as we could see. Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by the sw as far as NW, but wheather this was the Main or Islands was not possible for us at this time to determine. The fear of looseing the Main land determined me to follow its deriction, with this View we hauled round the point and Steer'd to the Southward, but meeting with whifleing light airs all round the Compass we made but little progress untill noon when we found our selves by observation in the Latd of 36o29' s. A small Islands which lies NW 4 Miles from the promontory above mentioned bore NBE distant 61/2 Miles, being at this time about 2 Miles from the Shore. While we lay under the land two large Canoes came off to us, in one of them were 62 people, they stay'd about us some time then began to throw stones into the Ship, upon which I fired a Musquet ball thro' one of the boats after this they retired a shore. SUNDAY 19<1th.>1 At 1 PM a breeze sprung up at East which afterwards came to NE and with it we steer'd along shore SBE and SSE, having from 25 to 18 fathom water. At half past 7 having run 7 or 8 LeagB sence noon we Anchor'd in 23 fm not chooseing to run any further in the dark, having the land on both sides of us, forming the entrence of a Streight, Bay or River laying in SBE for on that point of the Com- pass we could see no land. At Day light AM, the wind being still favourable, we wiegh'd and run under an easy sail up the Inlet keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had got under sail three large canoes came off to the Ship and several of the People came on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to their having heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treated 206] the Natives. I made each of those that came on board a small present and after about an hours stay hey went away well satisfied.s After having run five Leagues from the place where we anchor'd last night our depth ofwater gradually decreased to 6 fathom and into less I did not choose to go, and as the wind blow'd right up the inlet and tide of flood we came too an Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channell which is here about 11 Miles over, after this sent two Boats to Sound the one on one side and the other on the other. MONDAY 20<1th>1. Moderate breeze at ssE and fair weather. At 2 PM the Boats returnd from sounding not haveing found above 3 feet more water then where we now lay; upon this I resolved to go no farther with the Ship, but to examine the head of the Bay in the boats, for as it appeared to run a good way inland I thought this a good opportunity to see a little of the Interior parts of the Country and its produce; Accordingly at Day light in the morning I set out with the Pinnace and Long boat accompaned by Mr Banks, Dr Solander and Tupia. We found the inlet end in a Rivers about 9 Miles above the Ship, into which we enterd with the first of the flood and before we had gone 3 miles up it found the water quite fresh. We saw a number of the natives and landed at one of their Villages the Inhabitants of which received us with open arms; we made but a short stay with them but proceeded up the River untill near Noon, when finding the face ofthe Country to continue pretty much the same and no alteration in the Course or stream of the River or the least probillity of seeing the end of it, we landed on the West side in order to take a View of the lofty Trees which adorne its banks, being at this time 12 or 14 Miles within the entrance and here the tide of flood run as strong as it doth in the River Thams below bridge. TUESDAY 21<1st>1. After land[ing] as above mentioned we had not gone a hundred yards into the Woods before we found a tree that girted 19 feet 8 Inches 6 feet above the Ground, and having a quadrant with me I found its length from the root to the first branch to be 89 feet, it was as streight as an arrow and taper'd but very little in proportion to its length, so that I judged that there was 356 solid feet of timber in this tree clear of the branches. We saw many others of the same sort several of which were taller than the one we measured and all of them very stout;s there were likewise many other sorts of very stout [207 timber-trees all of them wholy unknown to any of us. We brought away a few specimans and at 3 oClock we embarqued in order to return on board with the very first of the Ebb, but not before we had named this River the <1Thames>1s on account of its bearing some re- semblence to that river in england. In our return down the River the inhabitants of the Village where we landed in going, seeing that we return'd by a nother Channell put off in thier Canoes and met us and trafficked with us in the most friendly manner immagineable untill they had disposed of the few trifles they had. The Tide of Ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the River into the Sea reach as I may call it, where meeting with the flood and a strong breeze at NNW obliged us to come to a grappling and we did not reach the Ship untill 7 oClock in the AM. Intending to get under sail at high water the Long boat was sent to take up the Kidge anchor, but it blow'd so strong that she could not reach the Buoy and the gale increasing soon obliged us to bear away more Cable and strike Topgallant yards. WEDNESDAY 22<1nd.>1 Winds at NNw. The PM fresh gales and hazey with rain, the remainder Moderate and clear. At 3 pm the tide of Ebb makeing we took up our Anchors and got under sail and ply'd down the River untill 8 OClock when we again came to an Anchor I-n 7 fathom a muddy bottom. At 3 AM weighd with the first of the Ebb and kept plying untill the flood obliged us to anchor again. After this I went in the Pinnace over to the western shore but found thier neither inhabitants or any thing else worthy of note. At the time I left the Ship a good ma[n]y of the natives were along side and on board trafficking with our people for such trifles as they had and seem'd to behave as will as people could do, but one of them took the half hour glass out of the Bitticles and was caught in the very fact and 208] for which Mr Hick[s], who was the Commanding officer, brought him to the gang way and gave him a Dozn lashes with a Catt of nine tails. The rest of the people seem'd not displeased at it when they came to know what it was for, and one old man beat the fellow after he had got into his Canoe, however soon after this they all went aways. THURSDAY 23<1rd.>1 PM Gentle breezes at NNw and fair weather. Between 3 and 4 oClock got under sail with the first of the Ebb and ply'd to windward untill 9 when we anchor'd in 16 fathom over upon the East shore. In the night had light airs and Calm. At 3 AM weighd but had little or no wind untill near noon when a light breeze sprung up at NNW at this time we were close under the west shore in 7 fathom water Latde 36 51 s.s FRIDAY 24<1th.>1 PM Fresh gales and dark Clowdy, Squally weather with Thunder lightning and rain. Winds from the Nw to the sw and this last carried us by 7 oClock without the Nw point of the River. But the weather being bad and haveing land on all sides of us and a dark night coming on, I thought it most advisiable to tack and stretch in under the point where we Anchord in 19 fathom water. At 5 AM weigh'd and made sail to the Nw under our Courses and Dble reef'd topsails, the wind being at SWBW and WSW a Strong gale and squally, blowing right off the land, which would not permit us to come near It, so that from the time of our geting under sail untill noon (dureing which time we run I2 Leagues) we had but a slight and distant View of the Coast and was not able to distinguish whether the points we saw were parts of the Main or Islands laying before it, for we never once lost sight of the Main land. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 36o15'20" s being at this time not above 2 Miles from a point of land on the main and 31/2 leagues from a very high Islands which bore NEBE of us, in this situation had 26 fathom water. The farthest point we could see on the main bore from us Nw but we could see several small Islands laying to the Northward of that diriction. The point of land we are now abreast off I take to be the [209 NW extremity if the River Thames, for I shall comprehend under that name the deep bays we have been in for this week past, the NE point of which is the Promontory we past on Saturday morning last and which I have named <1Cape Colvill>1 in honour of the Rigt honble the Lord Colvill.s Latitude 36o26' s Longitude 184o27' West. It rises dire[c]tly from the sea to a Considerable height, but what makes it most remarkable is a high Rock standing close to the pitch of the point and from some points of Veiw may be dis[t]inguished at a very peat distance. From the sw point of this Cape the River extends it self in a direct line sBE and is no where less than three leagues broad untill you are I4 Leagues above the Cape, there it is at on[c]e con- tracted to a narrow stream, from this place it still continues the same sBE Course thro' a low flat country, or broad Vally that lies parallel with the Sea Coast, the end of which we could not see. The land on the East side of the broad part of this River is tollerable high and hilly, that on the west side is rather low, but the whole is Cover'd with Woods and Verdure and looks to be pretty fertile but we saw but a few small places that were cultivated. About the entrance of the narrow part of the River the land is mostly cover'd with Mangroves and other Shrubs, but further in are immence woods of as stout lofty timber as is to be found perhaps in any other part ofthe world: in many places the woods grow close upon the very banks of the Rivers but where it doth not the land is Marchey such as we find about the Thames in England. We saw poles stuck up in many places in this River to set nets for catching of fish,s from this we emmagined that there must be plenty of fish, but of what sort we know not for we saw none. The greatest depth of water we found in this River was 26 fathom and decreaseth pretty gradually as you run up to 11/2 and I fathom. In the mouth of the fresh water stream or narrow part is 3 210] and 4 fathom but before this are sand banks and large flatts. Yet I beleive that a ship of a moderate draught of water rnay go a long way up this River with a flowing tide,s for I reckon that the Tide rises upon a perpendicular near 10 feet and is high-water at the full and change ofthe Moon about 9 oClock. Six Leagues within Cape Colvill under the Eastern shore are several small Islands,s these Islands together with the main seem'd to forme some good harbours; opposite to these Islands under the western shore lies some other Islands and it appear'd very probable that these form'd some good harbours likewise.s But even supposeing that there were no harbours about this River, it is good anchoring in every part of it, where the depth of water is sufficient, being defended from the Sea by a Chain of large and small Islands (which I have named <1Barrier Isles)>1 lying across the Mouth of it, extending them- selves Nw and sE 10 Leagues; the South end of these Islands lies NE between 2 and 3 Leagues from Cape Colvill and the north end lies NE 41/2 Leagues from the Nw point of the River, which I have named <1Point Rodney,>1s it lies wNw 9 Leagues from Cape Colvill, Latitude 36o 15' s. Longde 184o58' West. The Natives resideing about this River do not appear to be very numerous, considering the great extent of Country, at least not very many came off to the Ship at one time and as we were but little a shore ourselves we could not so well judge of their numbers. They are a strong, well made active people as any we have yet seen and all of them paint their bodies with red Oker and Oyle from head to foot, a thing that we have not seen before. Their Canoes are large well built and ornamented with carved work, in general as well as most we have seen. SATURDAY 25<1th>1. PM had fresh gales at sw and Squally weather. We kept standing a long shore to the NW, having the main land on the one side and Islands on the other; our soundings were from 26 to 12 fathom water. At half past 7 PM we Anchor'd in a bay in 14 fathorn water a Sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an Anchor then we caught between go and a hundred Breams, (a fish so called)s this [211 occationed my giveing this place the name of <1Bream Bay.>1 The two points which forms this Bay lie North and South 5 Leagues from each other, the bay is every where pretty broad and between 3 and 4 Leagues deep, at the bottom of it thier appears to be a fresh water River,s the north head of the Bay called <1Bream head>1 is high land and remarkable on account of several peeked rocks rainged in order upon the top of it.s It lies in the Latitude of 35o46' s and N 41 West distant 171/2 Leags from Cape Colvill. This Bay may likewise be known by some small Islands laying before it call'd the <1Hen & Chikens>1 one of which is pretty high and terminates at top in two peeks. The land be- tween Point Rodney and Bream head, which is 1o Leagues, is low and wooded in tufts,s and between the Sea and the firm land are white sand banks, we saw no inhabitants, but saw fires in the night, a procf that the Country is not uninhabited. At day light AM we left this Bay and directed our Course along shore to the northward having a gentle breeze at sBw and Clear weather. A little after sun-rise found the Variation to be 12o42' Easterly. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 36o36' s. Bream head bore south distant Io Miles, some small Islands <1(Poor knights)>1s at NEBN distant 3 Leags and the northermost land in sight bore NNw, being at this time 2 Miles from the shore and in this situation had 26 fathom water. The land hereabouts is rather low and pretty well cover'd with wood and seems not ill inhabited. SUNDAY 26<1th>1. PM Gentle breezes between the ENE and North, kept rainging a long shore to the Northward at the distance of4 or 5 Miles off, saw several Villages and some Cultivated lands. Towards evening several Canoes Came off to us and some of the Natives Venter'd on board, to two who appeared to be Chiefs I gave presents, after these were gone out of the Ship the others became so troublesome that in 212] order to get rid of them we were at the expence of 2 or 3 Musquet Balls and one 4 pound shot but as no harm was intended them none they received unless they happend to over heat themselves in pulling a shore. In the night had Variable light airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South and afterwards at SE, with this we Pro- ceeded slowly to the Northward. At 6 AM several Canoes came offfrom the place where they landed last night and between this and Noon a good many came from other parts; had at one time a good many of the people on board and about 170 along side, their behavour was tollerable friendly but we could not prevale upon them to traffick with us. At Noon the Main land extending from sBE to NwBw; a remarkable point of land bore West distant 4 or 5 Miles, Latitude Observed 35o 11' s. MONDAY 27<1th>1. PM Gentle breezes Easterly and clear weather. At 3 pass'd the point of land before Mentioned, which I have named <1Cape>1 <1Brett>1 in honour of Sr Percy.s The land of this Cape is considerable higher than any part of the adjacent Coast, at the very point of the Cape is a high round hillock and NEBN near one Mile from this is a small high Island or Rock with a hole perced quite thro' it like the Arch of a Bridge and this was one reason why I gave the Cape the above name because <1Piercy>1 seem'd very proper for that of the Island. This Cape or at least some part of it is call'd by the Natives <1Motugo->1 <1gogo.>1s Latd 35o10'30" s, Longitude 185o25' West. On the west side of Cape Brett is a large and pretty Deep Bay lying in SWBW in which there appear'd to be several small Islands. The point that forms the NW entrence I have name'd <1Point Pococke,>1s it lies W1/4N 3 or 4 Leags from Cape Brett. On the sw side of this Bay we saw several Villages situated both on Islands and on the Main land from whence came off to us several large Canoes full of people, but like those that had been along side before would not enter into a friendly traffick with us, but would cheat when ever they had an opertunity.s The people in these Canoes made a very good appearence being all stout well made [213 men, having all of them their hair which was black Comb'd up and tied upon the Crown of their heads and there stuck with white feathers, in each of the Canoes were two or three Cheifs and the habits of these were rather superior to any we had yet seen, the Cloth they were made ons was of the best sort and cover'd on the out side with Dog skins put on in such a manner as to look agreeable enought to the Eye. Few of these people were tattow'd or mark'd in the face like those we have seen farther to the south, but several had their Backsides tattou'd much in the same manner as the Inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics. In the Course of this Day, that is this afternoon and yester forenoon, we reckoned that we had not less than four or five hundred of the Natives alongside and on board the Ship, and in that time did not rainge above 6 or 8 Leagues of the Sea-Coast, a strong proff that this part of the Country must be well inhabited. In the Evening the wind came to the westward of north and we tacked and stood off NE untill a 11 oClock when the wind coming more favourable we stood again to the westward. At 8 AM we were within a Mile of [a] Group of small Islands lying close under the Main land and NwBw1/2w distant 22 Miles from Cape Bret, here we lay for near two hours having little or no wind: dureing this time several Canoes came offto the Ship and 2 or 3 of them sold us some fish--<1Cavalles>1 as they are call'd which occasioned my giving the Islands the same name--after this, some others began to pelt us with stones and would not desist at the fireing of two Musquet balls thro' one of their boats: at last I was obliged to pepper two or three of the fellows with small shott after which they retired, and the wind coming at Nw we stood off to sea. At Noon the Cavalle Islands bore swBs distant 4 Miles. Cape Bret sE distant 7 Leags and the Wester- most land in Sight making like Islands bore west and by north. Latd in per observation 34o55' s. TUESDAY 28<1th>1. A fresh breeze from the Westward all this day which being right in our teeth we kept beating to windward with all the sail we could crowd but instead of gaining we lost ground. AM being close in with the land to the westward of the Bay side of Cape Bret we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages and pallisaded in, in the Same manner as others we have seen. At Noon C. Bret SEBE1/2E Dist 6 Leagues. Latd Obd 35o0' s. WEDNESDAY 29<1th>1. Fresh gales at NW and WNW. Kept plying to wind- ward untill 7 AM and finding that we lost ground every board we 214] made, I thought I could not do better then to bear up for the Bay which lies to the Westward of Cape Bret, it being at this time not above 2 Leagues to leeward of us, for by puting in there we should gain some knowlidge of it; on the Contrary by keeping the Sea with a Contrary wind we were sure of meeting with nothing new. These reasons induced me to bear away for the Bay and at a 11 oClock we Anchor'd under the sw side of one of the many Islandss that line the SE side of it in 41/2 fathom water;s but as we fell into this shoal'd water all at once, we anchor'd sooner then was intended and sent the master with two boats to sound, who soon found that we had got upon a bank that speted off from the NW end of the Island and that on the outside of it was 8 and 10 fathom water.s THURSDAY 30<1th>1. PM had the winds Westerly with some very heavy showers of rain.s We had no sooner come to an Anchor than between 3 and 4 hundred of the Natives Assembled in their Canoes about the Ship,s some few were admited on board and to one of the Chiefs I gave a piece of Broad Cloth and distributed a few nails &ca a Mongest some others of them. Many of these people had been off to the Ship when we were at sea and seem'd to be very sencible of the use of fire arms and in the little trade we had with them they behaved tollerable well, but continued not long before some of them wanted to take away the Buoy and would not desist at the fireing of several Mus- quets untill one of them was hurt by small shott, after which they withdrew a small distance from the Ship and this was thought a good oppertunity to try what effect a great Gun would have as they had paid so little respect to the Musquets, and accordingly one was fired over their heads,s this I beleive would have sent them quite off, if it had not been for Tupia who soon preavaild upon them to return to the Ship, when their behaver was such as gave us no room to susspect that they meant to give us any farther trouble. After the Ship was moved into deeper water I went with the Pinnace and yawl Man'd and Arm'd and landed upon the Island accompan'd by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. We had scarce landed before all the Canoes left the Ship and landed at different parts of thes [215 Island and before we could well look about us we were surrounded by 2 or 3 hundred people, and notwithstanding that they were all arm'd they came upon us in such a confused Stragleing manner that we hardly suspected that the[y] meant us any harm, but in this we were very soon undeceaved for upon our indeavouring to draw a line on the sand between us and them they set up the war dance and im- midiatly some of them attempted to seize the two Boats; being dis- apointed in this they next attempted to break in upon us upon which I fired a Musquet load[ed] with small shott at one of the forwardest of them and Mr Banks and 2 of the men fired immidiatly after; this made them retire back a little;s but in less than a minute one of the Chiefs rallied them again, Dr Solander seeing this gave him a peppering with small shott which sent him off and made them retire a second time; they attempted to rally several times after and only seem'd to want some one of resolution to head them; but they were at last intirely dispersed by the Ship fire[ing] a few shott over their heads and a Musquet now and than from us. In this skirmish only one or two of them was hurt with small Shott, for I avoided killing any one of them as much as possible and for that reason withheld our people from fireing.s We had observed that some had hid themselves in a Cave in one of the Rocks, and some time after the whole was over we went towards them, the Chief who I have mintiond to have been on board the Ship happen'd to be one of these he his wife and another man came out to meet us but the rest made off; these three people came and set down by us and we gave them of such things as we had about us. After this we went to another part of the Island where some of the inhabitants came to us and were as meek as 216] lambs. Having taken a Veiw of the Bay from the Island and loaded both boats wth sellery which we found here in great plenty, we returnd on board and at 4 AM hove up the Anchor in order to put to sea with a light breeze at East but it soon falling Calm obliged us to Come too again, and about Eight or 9 oClock seeing no probabillity of our geting to sea I sent the Master with two Boats to sound the harbour, but before this I order'd Mathw Cox, Henry Stevens and Mans Paroyras to be punished with a dozn lashes each for leaving thier duty when a shore last night and diging up Potatoies out of one of the Plantations, the first of the three I remited back to confine- ment because he insisted that their was no harm in what he had done.s All this fore noon had abundance of the Natives about the Ship and some few on board, we trafficked with them for a few trifles in which they dealt very fair and friendly. [DECEMBER 1769] FRIDAY 1<1st>1 December. Winds at NNw a Gentle breeze. At 3 PM the Boats having returnd from sounding, I went with them over to the south side of the Harbour and landed upon the Main, accom- paned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander; we met with nothing new or remarkable, the place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove where there are two small streams of fresh waters and plenty of Wood for fuel, here were likewise severI little plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams: the soil and natural produce of the Cuntry was much the same as what we have hitherto met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship. In the evening we had some very heavy showers of rain and this brought us on board sooner then we intended. AM the wind being still contrary I sent some people a shore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep in the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance and in the same friendly manner did those behave that were along side the Ship. Punished Mathw Cox with half a Dozn lashes and then dismissed him. [217 SATURDAY 2<1nd.>1 Winds at Nw and North. PM a Gentle breeze the remainder Strong gales and hazey, with much rain towards noon.s At 8 AM hoisted out the Long-boat and set her a Shore for water and the Pinnace to haul the Seine; but they had not got well a Shore before it began to blow and rain very hard; this occasioned them to return on board with one turn of water and but a very few fish. SUNDAY 3<1rd.>1 PM Strong gales at North with rain, the remainder gentle breezes from the westward. AM sent two Boats to Sound the harbours and one to haul the Sain, the latter of which met with very little success. MONDAY 4<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at Nw, wNw and West, and fair weather. PM Mr Banks, Dr Solander and my self landed upon one of the Islands on the north side of the one the Ship lays under,s this Island is about 3 Miles in circuit and hath upon it 40 or 50 Acres of land cultivated and planted with roots; here are likewise several small Streams of excellent water.s This Island as well as most others in this Bay seems to be well Inhabited. At 4 AM sent the Long boat to the above Id for water and some hands to cut grass, and at 9 I went with the Pinnace and yawl over upon the Main accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander; in our way we pass'd round a point of land on which stood a Heppas or fortified Village the Inhabitents of which waved to us to come a shore and accordingly we land, which we had no sooner done then the people came about us with quantities of various sorts of fish which we purchass'd of them for meer trifles. After this they shew'd us the Village which was a neat compact place and its situation well choose: there were 2 or 3 more near unto this but these we did not go to: we afterwards went a little way into the Country and had some of the Natives along with us. We met with a 218] good deal of Cult[i]vated land planted mostly with sweet Potatoies, the face of the Country appear'd Green and pleasent and the soil seem'd to be pretty rich and proper for Cultivation, the land is every where about this Bay of a moderate height but full of small hills and Vallies and not very much incumber'd with wood. We met with about half a Dozn Cloth Plants, being the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropicks make their finest Cloth on: this plant must be very scarce among them as the Cloth made from it is only worn in small peices by way of ornaments at their ears and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we had to give them, even a sheet of white paper is of more Value than so much English cloth of any sort what ever; but as we have been at few places where I have not given away more or less of the latter its more than probable that they will soon learn to set a Value upon it and likewise upon Iron a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the least Value upon. But was European commodities in ever such esteem among them they have no one thing of equal Value to give in return at least that we have seen. TUESDAY 5<1th.>1 PM had the winds at sw and wsw a fresh breeze. At 3 oClock we returnd on board and after dinner viseted a nother part of the Bay, but met with nothing new: by the evening all our empty Casks were fill'd with water and had at the same time got on board a large quantity of Sellery which is found here in great plenty. This I still continue to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable soup for the ships companies breakfast. At 4 AM weigh'd with a light breeze at sE, but had Variable light airs and sometimes calm untill near noon when a gentle breeze sprung up at North-at this time we had not got out of the Bay. Our Latitude by observation was 35o9' s. This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape Brett. I have named it the <1Bay of Islands>1 on account of the great number which line its shores, and these help to form several safe and Commodious harbours wherein is room and depth of water sufficient for any number of Shipping, the one we lay in is on the sw side of the South westermost Island that lies on the sE side of the Bay. I have made no accurate survey of this Bay,s the time it would have re- quired to have done this discouraged me from attempting of it, besides I thought it quite sufficient to lie able to affirm with certainty that it affords good anchorage and every kind of refreshments for Shipping; but as this was not the season for roots, we got only fish, [219 some few we caught our selves with hook and line and in the Saine but by far the greatest part we purchass'd of the Natives and these of Various sorts, such as Shirks, sting-rays, Breams, Mullet, Mackarels and several other sorts; their way of catching of them are the same as ours, (viz) with hooks and lines and with saines, of these last they have some prodigious large made all of a Strong kind of grass. The Mackarel are in every respect the same as those we have in England only some of them are larger than any I ever saw in any other part of the world; altho this is the season for this fish we have never been able to catch one with hook and line. The Inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we have yet been in and seem to live in friendship one with another altho it doth not att all appear that they are united under one head. They inhabited both the Islands and the main and have a number of Heppa's or strong holds, and these are all built upon such places as nature hath in a great part fortified and what she hath left undone the people themselves have finished. It is high-water in this Bay at full and Change of the Moon about 8 oClock and the tide at these times rises and falls upon a perpendi- cular, 6 or 8 feet. It appears from the few observations I have been able to make of the tides on the Sea Coast, that the flood comes from the southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that there is a Current which comes from the westward and sets along shore to the sE or ssE as the land lays.s WEDNESDAY 6<1th.>1 PM had a gentle breeze at NNw, with which we kept turning out of the Bay but gaind little or nothing, in the evening it fell little wind and at Io oClock it was Calm; At this time the tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we was very near being a shore but by the help of our boat and a light air from the southward we got clear; about an hour after when we thought our selves out of all danger the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock and went immidiatly clear without receiving any perceptible Camage; just before the man in the chains had 17 fathom water and immidiatly after she struck 5 fathom, but very soon deepen'd to 20. This rock lies half a Mile wNw from the northermost or outermost Island that lies on the sE side of the Pay.s Had light airs from the land 220] and some times Calm untill 9 oClock AM, by this time we had got out of the Bay and a breeze springing up at NNw we stood out to sea. At Noon Cape Brett bore SSE1/2E distant 1o Miles. Latd Observed 34o59's THURSDAY 7<1th.>1 PM A fresh breeze from the westward and Clear weather. At 3 oClock took several observations of the Sun and Moon the mean result of them gives 185o36' West Longitude from the meridian of Greenwich. What wind we have had this 24 hours hath been againest us so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the Westward. FRIDAY 8<1th>1. Fore part of PM had a Gentle breeze at NNw' with which we stood in Shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands, they are a Groupe of small Islands lying close under the Main land and 7 Leagues N 60o West from Cape Brett and 31/2 Leagues from point Rodney.s From these Islands the Main land trends wBN. We were here Viseted by several Canoes, and the people in them seem'd desirous of trafficking with us but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at South, they could not keep up with the Ship and I would not wait for them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to sw and West a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening to be 12o42' E and in the morning to be 13o East. Kept standing to the Westnorthwest and Nw untill 10 AM at which time we tacked and stood in for the shore, being about 5 Leagues offand in this situation had 118 fathom water. At Noon Cape Brett bore SE distant 13 Leagues and the westermost land in sight bore WBS; being at this time about 4 Leags from the Land. Latd in pr Observation 34o42' s. SATURDAY 9<1th.>1 PM had a gentle breeze at West which in the evening came to south and continued so all night, this by day light in the Morning brought us pretty well in with the land 7 Leagues to the westward of the Cavalle Isles and where lies a deep Bay runing in swBw and wsw, the bottom of which we could but just see and there the land appear'd to be low and level; the two points which form the entrence lie wNw and EsE 5 Miles from each other. This Bay I have [221 named <1Doubtless Bay.>1s The wind not permiting us to look into this Bay we steer'd for the westermost land we had in sight which bore from us wNw distant 3 Leagues but before we got the length of it it fell calm and continued so untill 10 oClock when a breeze sprung up at West NW and with it we stood off North. While we lay becalm'd several of the Natives came off to the Ship in five Canoes, but were fearfull of ventering along side, after these were gone Six more came off these last came boldly along side and sold fish of different sorts sufficient to give all hands a little. At Noon the Cavalle Isles bore SEBE distant 8 Leagues and the Entrence of Doubtless Bay sBw distant 3 Leagues, and the nor-west extremity of the land in sight, which we judge to be the Main bore NWBW. Our Latitude by obsern was 34o44' s. SUNDAY 10<1th>1. Had the winds from the western board all this Day, a gentle breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to [be] 12o41' E pr Azth and 12o40' by the Amplitude. In the Morning we stood close in with the land Seven Leagues to the westward of Doubtless Bay, here the shore forms a nother large open Bay,s the bottom of this Bay and that of Doubtless bay cannot be far from each other being to all appearence only separated by a low neck of land from which juts out a peninsula or headland which I have named <1knockle point.>1s wBs Six Leagues from this point and about the middle of the bay is a high mountain or hill standing upon a disart shore on 222] which account we call'd it <1Mount Camel,>1s Latd 34o51', Longde 186o50'. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathom Water and the bottom good for anchorage; but there seems to be nothing that can induce shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can looke more barren than the land about this Bay doth, it is in general low except the mountain just mentioned and the Soil to all appearence nothing but white sand thrown up in low irregular hills lying in narrow ridges parallel with the Shore: this ocasioned Mr Bankss to give it the name of <1Sandy bay.>1s The first rid[g]e behind the sea beach is partly cover'd with shrubs Plants &ca but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it which induced me to think that it lies open to the western Sea.s As barren as this land appears it is not without inhabitants, we saw a Village on the side of Mount Camel and a nother on the Eastern side,s besides five Canoes that were pulling off to the ship but did not come up with us. At 9 AM we tack'd and stood to the northward. At Noon Latitude in by Observation 34o38' s. The Cavalle Isles bore SEBE distant 13 Leagues the no[r]thern extremity of the land in sight make- ing like an Islands bore NW1/4N Distant 9 Leagues and Mount Camel bore swBs distant 6 Leagues. Tack'd and stood in shore. MONDAY 11<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at Nw and pleasent weather. Kept plying all this day, but got very little to windward.s At Noon was in the latitude of 34o32' s, the no[r]thermost point of land in sight set yesterday at noon bore NWBW Distce 6 or 7 Leagues. TUESDAY 12<1th.>1 Moderate breezes of Wind between the North west and north and smooth water yet we gain'd very little in plying to windward. At Noon Mount Camel bore SBW1/4W distt 4 or 5 Leagues. Latd Obd 34o34' s. WEDNESDAY 13<1th.>1 Fore part of PM had Moderate breezes at NBw and fair weather. Stood in shore untill 5 oClock at which time we [223 tack'd and stood to the NE; being 2 Leagues to the northward of Mount Camel and 11/2 Miles from shore and in this situation had 22 fathom water. At 10, it begun to blow and rain which brought us under double reef'd topsails. At 12 Tackd and stood to the westward untill 7 AM when we tackd and stood again to the NE, being at this time about a Mile to windward of the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we tack'd it came on to blow very hard at NNW with heavy squalls attended with rain, this brought us under our Courses and split the Main topsail in such a manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the yard. At 10 it fell more Moderate and we set the topsails double reef'd. At Noon had strong gales and hazey weather--tack'd and stood to the westwd. No land in sight, for the first time sence we have been upon this Coast. THURSDAY 14<1th>1. Strong gales at west and wsw with Squals at times attended with rain. At half past 3 PM Tackd and Stood to the north- ward a small Ids lying off Knockle point bore S1/2W distant half a League. In the evening brought the ship under her Courses having first split the fore and Mizn Topsails. At Midnight wore and stood to the southward untill 5 AM, then Tack'd and stood to the Nw, at this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9 Leagues, by this we found that we had fell very much to Leeward sence yesterday morning. Set the Topsails close reef'd and the people to work to dry and repair the damaged sails. At Noon a Strong gale and clear weather, Latd obd 34o6' s. Saw land bearing sw being the same North-Westermost land we have seen before and which I take to be the northern extremity of this Country as we now have a large swell rowling in from the westward which could not well be was we covered by any land on that point of the compass. FRIDAY 15<1th>1. Fresh gales at sw and for the most part clear weather, with a large swell from the westward. At 8 pm tacked and stood to the sE untill 8 am then tack'd and stood to the Westward with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 34o 10' s and Longd 185o45' west and by estimation about 11s Leagues from the land notwithstanding we use'd our utmost endeavours to keep in with it. SATURDAY 16<1th.>1 Fresh breezes between the sBw and sw, Clear weather with a swell from the westward.s At 6 AM Saw the land from 224] the Mast head bearing ssw, got topgt yards up and set the sails' un- bent the foresail to repair and brought another to the yard. At Noon Latd Obd 33o44' s. Course made sence yesterday at Noon N 6oo West distants 56 Miles. The land in sight bearing SBW distant 14 Leagues. SUNDAY 17<1th>1. A Gentle breeze between the SWBW and West with Clear weather. In Standing inshore sounded several times but had no ground with 9o fathoms of line, At 8 AM tacked in 108 fathom 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore, being the same point of land as we had to the NW of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore SW distant about 3 Miles, Mount Camel bore SBE distant 11 Leagues and the westermost land in sight bore s 75o w. Latd observed 34 20' s. The people at work repairing the Sails, the most of them having been split in the late blowing weather. MONDAY 18<1th.>1 Moderate breezes at West and wNw and Clear weather. At 4 PM Tack'd and stood inshore, in the doing of which we met with a strong rippling and the Ship fell fast to leeward occasioned as we thought by a Current seting to the Eastward,s at 8 Tack'd and stood off north untill 8 AM when we tacked and stood in being about 10 Leagues from the land: At Noon the point of land we were near yesterday at noon bore ssw distt 5 Leagues, Latd Obd 34o8' s. TUESDAY 19<1th>1. The Wind still continues at West. PM a Moderate breeze and clear weather. At 7 Tacked in 35 fathom water, the point of land before mentioned bore NWBN distant 4 or 5 miles having not gained one Inch to windward this last 24 hours which is a great proof that there must be a Current seting to the Eastward. The Point of land above mentioned I have call'd <1North Cape>1 judgeing it to be the northern extremity of this Countrys--it lies in the Latitude of 34o22' s and Longd 186o55' West from Greenwich and N 63s West 31 [225 Leagues from C. Brett. It forms the north point of Sandy Bay and is a Peninsula juting out NE about 2 Miles and terminates in a bluff head which is flat at top; the Isthmus which joins this head to the Main land is very low on which account the land of the Cape from several situations make[s] like an Island. It appears still more remarkable when to the southward of it by the appearence of a high round Island at the sE point of the Cape, but this is likewise a deception be- ing a round hilljoin'd to the Cape by a low narrow neck of land.s On the sE side of the Cape there appears to be Anchorage and where ships must be coverd from sw and Nw winds. We saw a Heppa or Village upon the Cape and some few inhabitants. In the night had some squalls attended with rain which obliged us to take a nother reef in our topsails. At 8 AM tack'd and stood in shore and being moderate loos'd a reef out of each topsail and set the small sails. At Noon we were in the Latitude of34o2' s and being hazey over the land we did not see it. WEDNESDAY 20<1th>1. PM Fresh breeze at wBN and clear weather. At 6 Tack'd and stood off. North Cape bore South distant 3 or 4 Miles. At 4 AM tackd and stood in, Wind at wNw a fresh breeze but at 9 it increased to a Strong gale with heavy squalls attended with Thunder and rain which brought us under our Courses. At a 11 it cleared up and the wind came to wsw, we set the topsails double reef'd and tackd and stood to the North-west. At Noon a Stiff gale and clear weather. Latd Obd 34o14', North Cape ssw distant 3 Leagues. THURSDAY 21<1st.>1 Fresh breeze at sw and clear weather with a heavy swell first from the West than from the sw. At 8 AM loose'd the 2nd reefs out of the topsails. At noon clear weather, no land in sight. The North Cape bore s 25o East distant 24 Leagues. Latde observed 33o17's FRIDAY 22<1nd>1. A Moderate gale at sBw and ssw, Clowdy weather. At 8 AM got up Topgallant yards and set the Sails. At Noon Latde Obd 33o2' s. Course and Dist. sence yesterday at Noon is N. 691/2o West37 Miles. The North Cape bore s 39o East distant 38 Leagues. SATURDAY 23<1rd>1. Gentle breezes between the sBw and sw, and clear settled weather with a swell from the sw. Course and distance sail'd sence yesterday at Noon is s 60o East 3o Miles. Latitude observed 33o17' s. North Cape s 36o East distant 27 Leagues.s 226] SUNDAY 24<1th>1. Light Airs next to a Calm all this 24 hours. At 7 PM saw the land from the mast head bearing s1/2E. At <11 1>1 AM saw it again bearing ssE distant 8 Leagues. At Noon Latde Obserd 33o48' s. MONDAY 25<1th>1. A Gentle Breeze at sE, the weather a little hazey. PM stood to the sw. At 4 the land above mentioned bore sEBs distant 4 Leagues. It proves to be a small Island which we take to be the <1Three kings>1 discover'd by Tasman: there are several smaller Islands or Rocks lying off the sw end and one at the NE end. It lies in the Latde of 34o10' s and Longitude of 187o45' West and West 14s North 14 or 15 Leags from the North Cape. At Midnight Tackd and Stood to the NE untill 6 AM then tackd and Stood to the Southward. At Noon the Island of the Three Kings bore East 8o north distant 5 or 6 Leagues. Latde Obsd 34o12' s. Longitude In 188o5' West. Variation pr Azths taken this morning 11o25' E.s TUESDAY 26<1th>1. Moderate breezes Easterly and hazey weather. Standing to the southward close upon a wind, at Noon was in the Latd of 35o 10' s and Longd 188o20' w. The Island of the Three Kings N 26o West distt 22 Leage. In this situation had no land in sight and yet by observation we are in the Latitude of the Bay of Islands and by my reckoning but 3o Leagues to the westward of the North Cape from whence it appears that the northern part of this land must be very narrow otherwise we must have seen some part of the west side ofit. WEDNESDAY 27<1th>1. Winds at East PM a fresh gale with which we stood to the Southward untill 12 at night then tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At 4 AM the wind began to freshen and increased in such a manner that at 9 we were obliged to bring the Ship too under her main sail, it blowing at this time excessive hard with heavy squalls attended with rain and at the same time thick hazey weather. Course made good sence yesterday at Noon ssw1/2w distance 11 Miles, Latd in 35o19' s. Longd in 188o29' West. The Island of the Three Kings N 27o E distt 77 Miles. THURSDAY 28<1th>1. The gale continued without the least intermission untill 2 AM when the wind fell a little and began to veer to the South- ward and to sw where it fix'd at 4, and we made sail and steer'd [227 East in for the land under the Foresail and main-sail but was soon obliged to take in the latter as it began to blow very hard and in- creased in such a manner that by 8 oClock it was a meer hurricane attended with rain and the Sea run prodigious high, at this time we wore the Ship haul'd up the Fore-sail and brought her too with her head to the Nw under a reef'd Main-sail, but this was scarce done before the Main tack gave way and we were glad to take in the Main sail and lay under the Mizen stay-sail and Ballance'd Mizen, after which we reef'd the Fore-sail and furl'd both it and the Main-sail.s At Noon the gale was a little abated but had still heavy squalls attended with rain. Our Course made good to day is North a little easterly 29 Miles. Latde in per Accot 34o50' s. Longde in 188o27' West. The Three Kings N 41 o E distant 52 Miles. FRIDAY 29<1th>1. Winds at sw and swBw, A very hard gale with squalls, but mostly fair weather. At 7 PM wore and lay on the other tack. At 6 AM loose'd the reef out of the fore-sail and set it and the reef'd Main sail. At 11 unbent both Fore-sail and main sail to repair and bent others and made sail under them. At Noon Latd Obd 34o45' s. Course & distance sail'd sence yesterday EBN 29 Ms. SATURDAY 30<1th>1. Winds at sw. PM hard gales with some squalls attended with rain. AM More Modte and fair. At 8 PM wore and Stood to the Nw untill 5 AM then wore and stood to the sE and being pretty moderate we set the Topsails close reef'd, but the sw Sea runs so high that the Ship goes boddily to leeward. At 6 Saw the land bearing NE distant about 6 Leagues which we judge to be the same as Tasman calls <1Cape Maria Van Diemen.>1 At Noon it bore NNE1/2E and we could see the land extend to the East and southward as far as SEBE' our Latitude by Obser: 34o55'. SUNDAY 31<1st>1. Fresh gales at sw and swBs accompaned by a large sea from the same quarter. At 1 PM Tacked and stood to the Nw untill 8 then stood to the sE. At this time the Island of the Three Kings bore NwBN distant II Leagues and Cape Maria Van Diemen NBE. At midnight wore and stood to the Nw untill 4 AM then wore and stood to the sE. At Noon our Latitude by obsern was 34o42' s, the land of Cape Maria Van Deimen bore NEBN distant about 5 Leagues.s 228] [JANUARY 1770] MONDAY 1<1st>1 Janry 1770. PM fresh breeze at SWBS and squally, the remainder moderate breezes at SWBS and SW clear weather. At 7 PM Tack'd and Stood to the westward. At this time Mount Camel bore N 83o East and the northermost land or Cape Maria Van Diemen NBw, being distant from the nearest shore 3 Leagues; in this situation had 40 fathom water. Note, Mount Camel doth not appear to lay little more than a Mile from the sea on this sides and about the same distance on the other, so that the land here cannot be above 2 or 3 Miles broad from sea to sea, which is what I conjecter'd when we were in Sandy bay on the other side of the coast.--At 6 AM tackd and Stood to the Eastward the Island of the Three Kings NWBN. At Noon tack'd again and stood to the westward being in the latitude of 34o37' s. The Island of the 3 Kings bore NwBN distant 10 or 11 Leagues and Cape Maria Vandiemens N 31o E distant 41/2 Leagues, in this situation had 54 fathom water. I cannot help thinking but what will appear a little strange that at this season of the year we should be three weeks in geting 10 Leagues to the westward and five weeks in geting 50 Leagues for so long it is sence we pass'd C. Brett but it will hardly be credited that in the midest of summer and in the Latitude of 35o such a gale of wind as we have had could have happen'd, which for its strength and continuence was such as I hardly was ever in before.s Fortunately at this time we were at a good distance from land otherwise it might have proved fatal to us. TUESDAY 2<1d>1. Fresh breezes at ssw and West accompan'd with a rowling sea from the sw. At 5 PM the wind veering to the westward we tack'd and stood to the Southward. At this time the North Cape bore E3/4N and wasjust open of a point that lies 3 Leagues west and by south from its --being now well assured that it is the Northermost extremity of this Country and is the East point of a Peninsulas which [229 stretches out NW and NWBN, 17 or 18 Leags and as I have before observe'd is for the most part low and narrow except at its ex- tremity where the land is tollerable high and extends 4 or 5 Leagues every way, Cape Maria Vandeimen is the west point of this peninsula and lies in the Latitude of 34o 30' Longde 187o18' West from Green- wich.s From this Cape the land trends away SEBS and SE to and behond Mount Camel and is every where a barren shores affording no better as prospect than what ariseth from white sand banks. At 1/2 past 7 PM the Islands of the Three Kings bore NWBN and Cape Maria Van diemen NEBE distt 4 Leagues. At 5 AM C. Maria Van deemen bore NNE1/2E and Mount Camel East. At Noon wass in the Lats of 35o 1 7' and the Cape Maria Van diemen by judgement bore North distant 16 Leagues having no land in sight not daring to go near it as the wind blow'd fresh right on Shore and a high rowling Sea from the same quarter and knowing that there was no harbour that we could put into in case we were caught upon a lee Shore. WEDNESDAY 3<1rd.>1 Winds at wsw and sw. PM a fresh breeze and squally, the remainder Moderate with frequent squalls attended with rain. In the evening shorten'd sail and at Midnight Tackd and made a trip to the Nw untill 2 AM then wore and stood to the southward. At Day light made sail and edge'd away in order to make the land, at 10 saw it bearing NE, and appear'd to be high land, at Noon it extended from North to ENE distant by estimation 8 or 10 Leagues. Our Latitude by observation was 36o2' s and Cape Maria Van die- men bore N 2o30' West, Distt 33 Leagues. A high rowling swell from the SW. THURSDAY 4<1th.>1 Winds at sw and swBs mostly a fresh gale accom- paned with a rowling sea from the same quarter. Being desirous of taking as near a view of the Coast as we could with safty, we kept edgeing in for its untill 7 oClock pm, being at this time about 6 Leagues from the Land, we then haul'd our wind to the sE and kept 230] on that Course close upon the wind all night sounding several times but had no ground with 100 and 110 fathoms. At 8 oClock AM wass about 5 Leagues from the land and a place which lies in the Lats of 36o25' that had the appearence of a Bay or inlet bore East. In order to see more of this place we kept on our Course untill a 11 oClock when we were not above 3 Leagues from it and then found that it was neither a Bay nor inlet but low land bounded on each side by higher lands which caused the deception.s At this time we tack'd and stood to the Nw. At Noon we were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the land and in the Latitude of 36o31' and Longd 185o50' West. Cape Maria Vandiemen bore N 25o West Distant 441/2 Leags, from this I form my judgement of the deriction of this Coast which is nearly ssE1/2E and NNW3/4W and must be nearly a strait Shore.s In about the Latitude of 35o45' is some high land adjoining to the sea,s to the Southward of that the land is of a Moderate height and years a most desolate and inhospitable aspect, nothing is to be seen but large Sand hills with hardly any green thing up[on] them and the great sea which the prevailing westerly winds impell upon the Shore must render this a very dangerous Coast, this I am so fully sencible of that was we once clear of it I am determind not to come so near again if I can possible avoide it unless we have a very favourable wind indeed.s FRIDAY 5<1th.>1 Fresh gales at sw with frequent squalls attend[ed] with rain, the sw swell still keeps up. Stood to the Nw all this day with a prest sail in order to get an offing. At Noon trues Course made good N 38o West distanc[e] 1o2 Miles Latd in per Obser. 35o10' s. Cape Maria Vandiemen bore N 10o East distant 41 Miles. SATURDAY 6<1th>1. First part a fresh breeze at swBs in the night had it at South. AM light airs from the southward next to a Calm and Clear weather. Course made good to day is N 76o West, Distance 8 Miles Latd pr Obsern 35o8' s. [231 SUNDAY 7<1th.>1 Variable light airs and sometimes Calm with Clear pleasent weather. At day light Saw the land which we took to be the Cape Maria Vandiemen bearing NNE distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Latitude in pr Observation 35o0' s. Cape Maria Vandiemen by estimation bore North distant 11 Leagues. MONDAY 8<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at NE and pleasent weather. At 6 PM saw the land bearing East and some time after saw a Turtle upon the water. At Noon the land extending from North to East distant 5 or 6 Leagues being the high land before mentioned and which is inter- sected in two places, each having the appearence of a Bay or inlet but I beleive that it is only low land.s Course and distance made Good sence yesterday at Noon is s 33o East 53 Miles, Latd pr Obsern 35o45' s. C. Maria Vandiemen N 25o West distant 30 Leags. TUESDAY 9<1th.>1 Gentle breezes between the NE and Nw clowdy weather. Sailing along shore within sight of land. At Noon Course and distance saild s 37o East 69 Miles, Latde in per Observation 36o39' s. The place we were abreast of the 4th Inst. which we at first took for a Bay or Inlet, bore NEBN distant 51/2 Leagues and C. Maria Vandiemen bore N 29o W dist. 47 Leags. WEDNESDAY 10<1th.>1 Winds at NNE and North the first part a gentle breeze, the remainder a fresh breeze and Clowdy with rain towards Noon. Continued a SE Course untill 8 oClock pm at which time we had run 7 Leags sence noon and were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the land which appear'd to be low and sandy such as I have before discribed. We than steer'd sEBs in a Parrallel direction with the Coast, our depth of water from 48 to 34 fathom a black sandy bottom. At day light found our selves between Two and 3 Leagues from the land which was of a moderate height and cloathed with wood and Verdure; at 7 oClock steerd sBE and afterwards sBw, the land laying in that deriction. At 9 was a breast of a point of land which rises sloaping from the Sea to a Considerable height, it lies in the latitude of 37o43' South. I named it <1Woody head.>1s SW1/2W 11 Miles from this head is a very small Island which we named <1Gannet Island,>1 on account of the great number of these Birds we saw upon it. At Noon a high Craggy point bore ENE distant 11/2 League; this point I have named <1Albetross Point.>1 It lies in the Latitude of 38o4' s and Longde 184o42' w and from Woody head s 17o w 7 Leags. On the 232] North side of it the shore forms a Bays wherein there appears to be anchorage and shelter for Shipping againest Southerly winds. 0ur Course and distance saild sence yesterday at Noon is s 37o E. Dist. 69 Miles. C. Maria Vandiemen bore N 30o w. distant 82 Leagues. THURSDAY 11<1th>1. At 1/2 past Noon the wind shifted at once from NNE to ssw, with which we stood to the westward untill 4 oClock pm than tack'd and stood in shore untill 7 when we gain Stood to the west- ward having but little wind, at this time Albetross point bore NE dis- tant near 2 Leagues and the southermost land in sight bore ssw1/2w, being a very high Mountain and made very much like the Peak of Tenerieff, in this situation had 30 fathom water. Had little wind all night, at 4 AM Tack'd and stood in shore, but it soon after fell Calm and being in 42 fathom water the people caught about 10 or a Dozs Bream, at 11 a light breeze sprung up from the westward and we made sail to the Southward. At Noon was by observation in the Lati- tude of 38o4' s. Albetross point bore due East distant 5 or 6 Leagues. FRIDAY 12<1th>1. Gentle breezes from between the Nw and NNE, fore and middle parts Clear weather, the latter dark and Clowdy. Steering along shore sBw and ssw at the distance of 4 Leagues off. At 7 pm saw the top of the peaked Mountain to the southward above the Clowds bearing from us South and at the same time the southermost land we had in sight bore sBw. Took several azths both in the evening and the morning which gave the Variation 14o 15' Easterly. At Noon had the winds very Variable with dark clowdy weather attended with excessive heavy showers of rain, at this time we were about 3 Leagues from the shore which lies under the peaked Mountain before mentioned, this Peak we did not see it being hid in the Clowds but judged it to bear about ssE, and some very remarkable peaked Islands lying under the Shores bore EsE distant 3 or 4 Leagues. SATURDAY 13<1th.>1 Winds Variable, PM Clowdy weather. At 7 oClock sounded and had 42 fathom water, being distant from the shore between 2 and 3 Leagues, and the peaked mountain as near as I could judge bore East. After it was dark saw a fire upon the shore a sure sign that the Country is inhabited. In the night had some Thunder Lightning and rain. At 5 AM saw for a few Minutes the Top of the peaked Mountain above the Clowds, bearing NE; it is of a prodigious height and its top is cover'd with everlasting snow. It lies in the Latitude of 39o16' s and in the Longitude of 185o15' w. I have [233 named it <1Mount Egmont>1 in honour of the Earl of Egmont.s This mountain seerns to have a pretty large base and to rise with a gradual assent to the peak and what makes it more conspicuous is, its being situated near the Sea, and a flat Coun afforded a very good asspect, being cloathed with Wood and Verdure. The shore under the foot of this mountain forms a large Cape which I have named <1Cape Egmont,>1s it lies ssw1/2w, 27 Leags from Albetross point. On the NE side of the Cape lay two small Islands near to a very remarkable point on the Main that riseth to a good height in the very form of a Sugr Loafe:s To the Southward of the Cape the land tends away sEBE and EsE and seems to be every where a bold shore. At Noon had variable light airs and clear weather. Latitude Observe'd 39o32' s. Cape Egmont bore about NE and we were about 4 Leagues from the Shore in that direction, in this situation had 4o fathoms water. SUNDAY <114th.>1 PM had a gentle breeze at West which in the Eveng Came to NwBw and continued so all night and blowed a fresh breeze. We steer'd a long shore ESE and SEBE, keeping between two and three Leagues off. At 1/2 past 7 pm saw for a few minutes Mount Egmont which bore from us N 17o w distant 10 Leagues. At 5 AM steer'd sEBs the land inclineing more southerly, but half an hour after we saw land bearing SWBS which we haule'd up for, at this time the weather was squally attended with showers of rain. At Noon had a steady fresh breeze at WBN and Clowdy weather; the SW extremity of the land in sight bore s 63o West, and some high land which makes like an Islands lying under the Main bore ssE distant 5 Leagues: The bottom of the Bay we are now in, and which bears from us south, we cannot see, altho it is very clear in that quarter. Our Latitude by observation is 40o27' s, Longitude 184o39' West. MONDAY 15<1th.>1 Fore and middle parts fresh breezes between the West and Nw and fair weather. At 8 PM we were within 2 Leagues of the 234] land we discover'd in the morning, having run 10 Leagues sence Noon. The land seen than bearing S 63o West bore now N 59o West distant 7 or 8 Leags and makes like an Island, between this land or Island and Cape Egmont is a very broad and deep Bay or Inlet the sw side of which we are now upon, and here the land is of a considerable height distinguished by hills and Vallies and the shore seems to form several Bays into one of which I intend to go with the Ship in order to Careen her (she being very foul) and to repair some few defects, recrute our stock of Wood, water &ca with this View we kept plying on and off al[l] night having from 8o to 63 fathoms water. At day light Stood in for an Inlet which runs in sw.s At 8 AM we were got within the entrance which may be known by a reef of rocks stretching offfrom the Nw point and some rocky Island[s] lying off the sE point. At 9 oClock being little wind and variable we were carried by the Tide or current within 2 Cable lengths of the Nw shore where we had 54 fathoms water, but with the help of our Boats we got clear.s At this time we saw rise up twice near the Ship a Sea lyon the head of which was exactly like the head of the male one described [by] Lord Anson.s We likewise saw a Canoe with some of the Natives Cross the Bay and a Village situated upon a point of an Island which lies 7 or 8 Miles with[in] the Entrence.s At Noon we were the length of this Island and being little wind had the boats ahead towing. TUESDAY 16<1th>1. Variable light airs and clear settled weather. At I pm hauled close round the sw end of the Island on which stands the Village before mentioned the Inhabitants of which were all in arms; At 2 oClock we Anchor'd in a very snug Cove which is on the Nw side of the Bay faceing the s West end of the Island, in 11 fath. water soft ground and moor'd with the Stream anchor. By this time several of the Natives had come off to the Ship in their Canoes and after [235 heaving a few stones at us and having some conversation with Tupia some of them ventured on board where they made but a very short stay before they went into their boats again and soon after left us all together. I than went a Shore in the bottom of the Cove accompanied by most of the Gentlemen, we found a fine stream of excellent water, and as to Wood the land here is one intire forest. Having the Saine with us we made a few hauls and caught 300 pounds weight of different sorts of fish which were equally distributd to the Ships Compney. AM Careend the Ship scrub'd and pay'd the Larboard side.s Several of the Natives Visited us this morning and brought with them some stinking fish which how ever I order'd to be bought up in order to incourage them in this kind of trafick, but trade at this time seem'd [not]s to be their object, but were more inclineable to quarrel and as the Ship was upon the careen I thought they might give us some trouble and perhaps hurt some of our people that were in the boats along side; for this reason I fire'd some small Shott at one of the first offenders, this made them keep at a proper distance while they stayd which was not long before they all went away.s These people declared to us this morning that they never either saw or heard of a Ship like ours being upon this coast before: from this it appears that they have no Tradition among them to Tasman being here for I beleive Murderers Bay the place where he Anchor'd not to be far from this place but this cannot be it from the Latitude for I find by an observation made this day at Noon that we are at an anchor in 41o 5'32" S which is 15' to the southward of Murderers Bay.s WEDNESDAY 17<1th>1. Light airs Calms and pleasent weathr PM righted the Ship and got ready for heeling out the other side, and in the evening hauled the Saine and caught a few fish, while this was doing 236] some of us went in the Pinnace into a nother Cove not far from where the Ship lays; in going thether we met with a Woman floating upon the water who to all appearence had not been dead many days. Soon after we landed we met with two or three of the Natives who not long before must have been regailing themselves upon human flesh, for I got from one of them the bone of the fore arm of a Man or a Woman which was quite fresh and the flesh had been but lately pick'd off which they told us they had eat,s they gave us to understand that but a few days ago they had taken Kill'd and eat a Boats crew of their enemies or strangers, for I beleive that they look upon all strangers as enemies; from what we could learn the Woman we had seen floating upon the water was in this boat and had been drownded in the fray. There was not one of us that had the least doubt but what this people were Canabals but the finding this Bone with part of the sinews fresh upon it was a stronger proof than any we had yet met with, and in order to be fully satisfied of the truth of what they had told us, we told one of them that it was not the bone of a man but that of a Dog, but he with great fervency took hold of his fore-arm and told us again that it was that bone and to convence us that they had eat the flesh he took hold of the flesh of his own arm with his teeth and made shews of eating.--AM Careen'd scrubed and pay'd the Starboard side of the Ship: While this was doing some of the natives came along side seemingly only to look at us, there was a Woman among them who had her Arms, thighs and legs cut in several places, this was done by way of Mourning for her husband who had very lately been kill'd and eat by some of their enimies as they told us and pointed towards the place where it was done which lay some where to the Eastward. Mr Banks got from one of them a bone of the fore arm much in the same state as the one before mention'd and to shew us that they had eat the flesh they bit a[nd] naw'd the bone and draw'd it thro' their mouth [237 and this in such a manner as plainly shew'd that the flesh to them was a dainty bit. THURSDAY 18<1th>1. Winds mostly from the sw a gentle breeze and clear settled weather. PM righted the Ship and sent on Shore all or most of our empty Casks, and in the morning the Coopers went about triming them and the Carpenters went to work to black the bends,s Caulk the sides and to repair other defects in the Ship, while the Seamen were employ'd in the hold, cutting Wood &ca &ca. I made a little excursion in the Pinnace in order to take a View of the Bay accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, We met with nothing remarkable and as we were on the west side of the Bay where the land is so closely cover'd with Wood thats we could not penetrate into the Country. FRIDAY 19<1th>1. Winds and weather as yesterday and the employment of the people the same. In the PM some of our people found in the skirts of the wood three hip bones of Men, they lay near to a hole or hoven, that is a place where the natives dress their Victuals, this circumstance trifleing as it is, is still a farther proff that this people eat human flesh.s In the AM set up the Forge to repair the braces of the Tiller and such other Iron work as was wanting. The natives came along side and sold us a quantity of large Mackerel for nails peices of Cloth and paper, and in this traffeck they never once attemptd to defraud us of any one thing, but dealt as fair as people could do. SATURDAY 20<1th>1. Winds Southerly, fair and pleasant weather. Employ'd Wooding Watering &ca and in the AM sent part of the powder a Shore to be air'd. Some of the Natives brought along side in one of their Canoes four of the heads of the men they had lately kill'd, both the Hairy scalps and skin of the faces were on: Mr Banks bought one of the four, but they would not part with any of the other on any account whatever, the one Mr Banks got had received a blow on the Temple that had broke the skull. This morning I set out in the Pinnace, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, in order to survey the West Coast of the Bay, we took our rout towards the head of the Bay but it was near noon before we had got behond the place we had been before. 238] SUNDAY 21<1st>1. PM a gentle breeze of wind Southerly the remainder light airs and Calms, with clear settled weather. PM the People em- ployed as usual and at 8 oClock we return'd on board with Pinnaces from surveying the Bay in the doing of which I met with an excellent harbours but saw no Inhabitants or any Cultivated land. In the AM after hauling the Saine for fish I gave every body leave to go a Shore at the Watering place to amuse themselves as they thought proper. MONDAY 22<1nd>1. PM and in the night had Variable light airs and Calms, AM had a fresh breeze Southsy and Clowdy weather. In the morning the people were set about the necessary business of the Ship and I set out in the Pinnace (accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander) with a view of examining the head of the Inlet, but after rowing between 4 and 5 Leagues up it and finding no probabillity of reaching or even seeing the end the wind being againest us and the day already half spent we landed at noon on the SE side in order to try to get upon one of the hills to View the Inlet from thence. TUESDAY 23<1rd>1. PM Winds Southerly a fresh breeze. Agreeable to what is mentioned above I took one mans with me and climed up to the top of one of the hillss but when I came there I was hindred from seeing up the inlet by higher hills which I could not come at for impenetrable woods, but I was abundantly recompenced for the trouble I had in assending the hill, for from it I saw what I took to be the Eastern Sea and a strait or passage from it into the Western Sea a little to the Eastward of the entrance of the Inlet in which we now lay with the Ship, the main land which lies on the SE side of this inlet appeared to me to be a narrow ridge of very high hills and to form a part of the SW side of the Strait. The land on the opposite side seem'd to trend away East as far as the Eye could see, to the SE appear'd as oppen sea and this I took to be the Eastern. I likewise saw some Islandss lying on the East side of the Inlet which before I had taken to be a part of the Main land. As soon as I had decended the hill and we had refreshed our selves we set out in order to return to the Ship and in our way [239 pass'd through and examined the Harbours, Coves &ca that lay behind the Islands above mentioned. In this rout we met with an old Village in which were a good many houses but no body had lived in any of them lately, we likewise saw a nother that was inhabited, but the day being far spent so that we had not time to go to it but made the best [of]s our way to the Ship which we reached between 8 and 9 oClock. In the night had much rain with Clowdy hazey weather which continued by intervils untill noon. WEDNESDAY 24<1th>1. PM had a fresh breeze Southerly and Clowdy weather. After dinner I employ'd my self in carrying on the Survey of the place and upon one of the Islands where I landed were a number of houses but no inhabitants neither had any been there lately. In the morning the Gunner was sent a shore with the re- mainder of the powder to dry, and the Long-boat was sent with a gang of hands to one of the Islands to cut grass for our sheep and the rest of the people were employ'd about the usual work of the Ship. This fore-noon some of us viseted the Hippa, which is situated on the point of the Island mentioned on our first arrival. The Inhabitants of this place shew'd not the least dislike at our coming but on the contrary with a great deal of seeming good nature shew'd us all over the place, we found among them some human bones the flesh of which they told us they had eat, they likewise inform'd us that there was no passage into the Sea thro' this inlet as I had immagined their mights because above where I was in the Boat it turn'd away to the west ward. Leaving these people we travel'd to the other end of the Island and there took water and cross'd over upon the Main where we met with several houses that were at present or had very lately been inhabited but we saw but very few of the Inhabitents and these were in there boats fishing. After viewing this place we returnd on board to dinner. THURSDAY 25<1th>1. Winds at Nw a gentle breeze and fair weather. PM The Long-boat having returnd with a load of grass she was employ'd bringing on board Wood and water and the Caulkers having finish'd caulking the Ship sides (a thing they have been em- ploy'd upon ever sence we came here) they were pay'd with tar. Early in the AM the Long boat was set again for grass, and returnd at Noon with a Load. FRIDAY 26<1th>1. Gentle breezes and pleasent weather. In the PM I made a little excursion in the Pinnace along shore towards the mouth of the inlet accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander; we found in 240] a small cove several of the Natives of whome we purchas'd a quantity of freshs fish, and upon our return to the Ship we found that the Saine had been equally as successfull, which we generally haul mornings & evenings, and seldom fail of geting fish sufficient to serve all hands. In the AM I made an excursion into one of the Bays which lie on the East side of the Inlet accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, upon our landing we ascended a very high hills from which we had a full View of the passage I had before descover'd and the land on the opposite shore which appear'd to be about 4 Leagues from us, but as it was hazey near the horizon we could not see far to the SE. However, I had now seen enough of this passage to convence me that there was the greatest probabillty in the world of its runing into the Eastern Sea as the distance of that Sea from this place cannot exceed 20 Leagues even to where we were, upon this I resolve'd after puting to sea to search this passage with the Ship.s We found on the top of the hill a parcel of loose Stones of which we built a Pyrmid and left in it some Musquet balls, small Shott Beeds and what ever we had about us that was likely to stand the test of time: after this we descended the hill and found along with Tupia and the boats crew several of the natives, seting in the most free and friendly manner immagineable. Tupia always accompanies us in every excursion we make and proves of infinate service. In our return to the ship we Visited the Hippa we had seen on Tuesday last which is situated on a small Island or rather a Rock, the Inhabitants of this place invited us a shore with thier usual marks of friendship and shew'd us all over the place which indeed was soon done, for it was very small yet it contain'd a good number of people and they had in it split & hanging up to dry a prodigious quantity of various sorts of small fish a part of which they sold to us for such trifles as we had about us. SATURDAY 27<1th>1. Fresh gales Westerly. This day we got the Tiller properly secure'd which hath been the employment of the Ar- mourers and part of the Carpenters sence we anchor'd at this place, the former in repairing and making new Iron work and the latter in fixing a Transom for the want of which the Tiller has often been in danger of being broke, the Iron braces that supply'd the want of a [241 transom have broke every time they have been repair'd.s Coopers still imploy'd repairing the Casks, some hands with the Long-boat geting on board stones to put into the bottom of the bread room to bring the Ship more by the stern while other were employ'd cuting wood, repairing the rigging and fishing. SUNDAY 28<1th>1. Strong gales westerly. PM fair and Clowdy, the re- mainder thick hazey weather with much rain. MONDAY 29<1th>1. Winds as yesterday. PM rainy weather the remainder fair and Clowdy. Pretty early in the AM an old man who made us several Visits upon our first arival here, came on board and told us that one of our boats had fire'd upon and wounded two of their people one of which was dead of his wounds, this affair happen'd on Sunday was a week and never before now came to my knowlidge. On that day the Master and five Petty officers desired to have a small boat to go a fishing, but instead of keeping within the Usual boands and under the protection of the Ship they went over to the Hippa on the Island from which some of the inhabitents put off in two Canoes, as they thought to attack them, this caused the Master to fire and according to the report of the old man wounded twos one of which is sence dead: but this last circumstance was soon after con- tradicted by another of the natives who Mr Green and Tupia saw a Shore and I wish this last report may be trues because I find the reasons for fireing upon them are not veryjustifiable. This morning I went out to the mouth ofthe Inlet and landed upon the West point and from the top of a pretty high hill which is there I had a view of the Coast to the Nw, the farthest land I could see in that quarter was an Island about 10 Leagues off and lying pretty near the main and is the same as hath been before mentiond; between this Island and the place where I was lay some other Islandss close under the Shore which forms several Bays, wherein there appears to be safe anchorage for Shipping.s After I had set the different points &ca we errected upon the Top of the Hill a tower or pile of stones in which we left a peice of Silver Coin, some Musquet Balls Beeds &ca and left 242] flying upon it a peice of an old pendant: after this we return'd to the boat and in our way to the Ship visited some of the natives we met with a long shore and purchas'd of them a small quantity of fish. TUESDAY 30<1th>1. Winds at Nw gentle breezes and fair weather. Early in the AM a boat was sent to one of the Islands to get sellery to boil for the peoples breakfasts, whilest our people were gathering of it near some empty hutts about 20 of the Natives landed there, men women and children, they had no sooner got out of their Canoes then 5 or 6 women set down together and cut and scarified their legs, thighs,s Arms and faces some with shells and others with peices ofjasper. So far as our people could understand them this was done on account of their husbands having been lately kill'd and devoured by their enimies; while the women were performing this ceremony the men went about repairing the hutts without shewing the least concern. The Carpenter went into the woods with part of his crews to cut and square some timber to saw into boards for the use of the Ship and to prepare two posts to be set up with Inscriptions upon them.s WEDNESDAY 31<1st>1. Little wind and variable. In the PM the Car- penter having prepared the two Posts with inscriptions upon them seting forth the Ships name month and year, one of them was set up at the watering place on which was hoisted the Union flag and in the morning I took the other over to the Island which is known by the Name of <1Motu-ouru>1 and is the one that lies nearest to the Sea but before I attempted to set up the post I went first to the Hippa having along with me Dr Munkhouse and Tupia, we here met with the old man I have before spoke of. The first thing I did was to inquire after the man said to be killd by our people and the one that was wounded at the same time, when it did not appear to me that any such accidents had happend. I next, by means of Tupia, explained to the old man and several others that we were come to set up a mark upon the Island in order to shew to any ship that might put into this place that we had been here before, they not only gave their free consent to set it up, but promise'd never to pull it down. I then gave to every one presents one thing or a nother, to the old men I gave silver threepenny peicess dated 1763 and spike nails with the Kings broad Arrows cut deep in them things that I thought were most likely to remain long among them. [243 After I had thus prepare'd the way for seting up the post we took it up to the highest part of the Island and after fixing it fast in the ground hoisted thereon the Union flag and I dignified this Inlet with the name of <1queen Charlottes Sound>1 and took formal posession of it and the adjacent lands in the name and for the use of his Majesty, we then drank Her Majestys hilth in a Bottle of wine and gave the empty bottle to the old man (who had attended us up the hill) with which he was highly pleased. Whilest the post was seting up we asked the old man about the <1Strait>1 or passage into the Eastern Sea and he very plainly told us that there was a passage and as I had some con- jectors that the lands to the sw of this strait (which we are now at) was an Island and not part of a continents we questioned the old man about it who said that it consisted of two <1Wannuaes,>1 that is two lands or Islands that might be circumnavigated in a few days, even in four.s This man spoke of three lands, the two above mentioned which he call'd <1Tovy-poenammu>1 which signifies green Talk or stone such as the[y] Make their tools on, oramints &ca and for the third he pointed to the land on the East side of the Strait, this he said was a large land and that it would take up a great many moons to sail round it, or some thing to the same purpose--this he calld <1Aeheino mouwe>1 a name m[an]y others before had call'd it by,s that part which borders on the strait he calld <1Teirawhitte.>1s After we had done our business upon the 244] Island we return'd on board bringing the old man along with us who after dinner went ashore in a canoe that came to attend upon him. [FEBRUARY 1770] THURSDAY Febry 1<1st.>1 PM having compleated the Ship with wood and fill'd all our water the Boatswain was set a Shore with a party of men to cut and make brooms while others were employd about the rigging fishing &ca. In the night and the remainder of the day had a Strong gale from the Nw attended with very much rain. FRIDAY 2<1nd>1. In the PM the gale increased to a storm attended with rain and squalls which came down in excessive heavy gusts from off the high land, in one of which the hawser we had fast to the Shore brok, this obliged us to let go another anchor. Towards midnight the gale moderated and in the morning it fell calm and we took up the Sheet anchor look'd at the best bower and moor'd the Ship again to the shore. The heavy rains which hath fell and still continues to fall hath caused the brook we water'd at to over flow its banks and carry away ten small Casks we had standing there full of water and not withstanding we searched the whole Cove we could not find one of them. SATURDAY 3<1rd.>1 Winds Northerly mostly fair weather. Very early in the AM sent the Long-boat for sellery to boil for the Ships compneys breakfasts and as I intended sailing the first oppertunity I went over to the Hippa which is on the East side of the Sound and purchas'd of the Inhabitants a quantaty of split and half dry'd fish and such as I could get. While we were at this hippa Tupia made farther enquirey about the <1lands>1 and <1strait>1 and these people confirm'd every thing the old man had before told us. About noon we took our leave of them, which some seem'd not sorry for, for notwithstanding they sold us their fish very freely, there were some few among them who shew'd evident signs of disaprobation.s SUNDAY 4<1th.>1 Winds northerly a fresh breeze and fair weather. In the pm after returning from the hippa some of us made an excursion along shore to the Northward in order to traffick with the Natives for fish in which we had no great success. In the evening got every thing offfrom the shore designing to sail in the morning but the wind [245 not permiting we amuse'd our selves in fishing collecting shells seeds &ca &ca MONDAY 5<1th.>1 Winds and weather as yesterday. In the AM cast off the Hawser, hove short on the bower and carried the Kedge out in order to warp the Ship out of the Cove. All the dry fish we have been able to procure from the Natives sence we came here were this day divided amongest the ships compney.s TUESDAY 6<1th>1. At 2 PM hove up the Anchor warp'd the Ship out of the Cove and got under sail, but it soon after falling little wind and that very variable we came again to an Anchor a little above Motu- ouru. The old man seeing us under sail came on board to take his leave of us, amongest other conversation which pass'd betwixt him a[nd] Tupia he was ask'd if either he or any of his ancestors had ever seen or heard of any Ship like this being in these parts, to which question he answer'd in the negative, but said that his Ancestors had told him that there came once to this place a small Vessel from a dis- tant land call'd <1Olhemaroa>1s wherein were four men that were all kill'd upon their landing and being asked where this distant land lay he pointed to the North, intimated that it would take up a great many days to go thether. Something of this land was mentioned by the people of the Bay of Islands who said that some of their Ancestors had been there. But it is very clear to us that their knowlidge of this land is only traditionary.s Had it calm all night untill 6 oClock in the morning when a light breeze sprung up at north and we got again under sail, but as the wind proved very unsteady we got no farther than just without Motu-ouru by noon but had a fair prospect of geting clear out of the Sound which I shall next describe. 246] Description of Queen Charlotte's Sound The entrence of this Sound is situated in the Latitude of 41o0' South and in the Longitude of 184o45' West, and near the middle of the SW side of the Straits before mentioned. The land of the SE head of the Sound call'd by the Natives Koamaroos (off which lies two small Islands and some rocks)s makes the narrowest part of the Strait. There stretcheth out two miles NEBN from the NW head a reef of rocks a part of which is above water. This account of the two heads will be found sufficient guides to know this Sound, which is three Leagues broad at the entrence and lies in SWBS, sw and wsw at least 10 Leagues and is a Collection of some of the finest harbours in the world as will evidently appear from the Plan which was taken with all the accuracy that time and circumstance would admit. The harbour or Cove in which we lay call'd <1Ship Cove>1s is not inferior to any in the Sound both in point of Securety and other conveniences; it lies on the west side of the Sound and is the southermost of the three coves lying within Motu-ouras which Island bears East from it. You may sail into this Cove either between this last mentioned Island and the Isle Hamotes or between Motu-oura and the West shore, in this last channell are two ledges of rocks 3 fathom under water but they may be known by the Sea weed which grows upon them. In sailing in or out of this Sound with little wind attention must be had to the Tides which flows 9 or 10 oClock at the full and change of the Moon and rises and falls upon a perpendicular 7 or 8 feet. The flood comes in through the Strait from the SE and sets strong over upon the Nw head and the reef laying offit, the Ebb sets with greater rapidity to the SE [247 over upon the Islands and rocks lying off the SE head. The Variation of the Compass we found from good observations to be 13o5' East. The land about this sound is of such height that we first saw it at the distance of 2o Leagues, it consists wholy of high hills and deep Vallies well stored with a variety of excellent Timber fit for all purposes excepting Ships Masts for which use it is too hard and heavy. The sea abounds with a variety of fish and in such plenty that without going out of the Cove where we lay, we caught daly what with the Saine hook and line quite sufficient for all hands, and upon our first arrival we found plenty of shags and some few other wild fowl which to people in our situation was fresh food not to be dispised.s The number of Inhabitants hardly exceeds 3 or 4oo people, they leive desperse'd along the Shores in search of their daly bread which is fish and firn roots for they cultivate no part of the lands. Upon the appearence of danger they retire to their Hippa's or strong holds for in this situation we found them and they remaind so for some days after. This people are poor when compared to many we have seen and their Canoes are mean and without orament, the little traffick we had with them was wholy for fish for we saw littles else they had to dispose of. They seem'd to haves some knowlidge of Iron for they very readily took Nails in exchange for fish and some times prefer'd them to any thing else which was more than the people of any other place would do, they were at first fond of paper but when they found it spoild by being wet they would not take it, nor did they set much Value upon the cloth we got at Georges Island, but shew'd an extraordinary fondness for English broad Cloth and Red Kersey which shew'd them to be a more sensible people than Ma[n]y of their Neighbours. Besides the common dress some of these people wore on their heads round Caps made of birds feathers which were far from being unbecoming.s WEDNESDAY 7<1th>1. In the PM had a light breeze at NBW with which we got out of the Sound and stood over to the eastward in ord[er] to get the Strait well open before the tide of ebb made. At 7 the two 248] small Island[s] which lies off Cape Koamaroo or the sE head of Queen Charlottes Sound bore East distant 4 Miles. At this time we had it nearly calm and the tide of Ebb makeing out we were carried by the rapiddity of the stream in a very short time close upon one of the Islands where we narrowly escaped being dashed againest the rocks by bringing the Ship to an Anchor in 75 fathom water with 150 fathoms of Cable out; even this would not have save'd us had not the tide, which first set SBE, by meeting with the Island changed its dire[c]tion to sE and carried us past the first point. When the Ship was brought up she was about two Cables lengths of the rocks and in the strength of the stream which set SE at least 4 or 5 Knotts or miles an hour.s A little before 12 oClock the tide abated and we began to heave, by 3 the anchor was at the bows and having a light breeze at Nw we made sail over for the eastern shore but having the tide againest us we made but little way. The wind afterwards freshend and came to north and NE with which and the tide of ebb we were in a short time hurried thro' the narrowest part of the strait and than stood away for the southermost land we had in sight which bore from us SBW. Over this land appear'd a prodegious high mountain the summit of which was coverd with snow.s The narrowest part of the strait we have pass'd lies between <1Cape>1 <1Koamaroo>1 on <1Tovy-poenammu>1 and <1Cape Teerawhitte>1 on <1Aeheinomouwe>1;s the distance from the one to the other I judged to be between 4 andsd 5 Leagues and notwithstanding the strength of the tides, now that is known, there is no great danger in passing it; in the doing of which I am of opinion that the NE shore is the safest to keep upon for on that side there appear'd to be [no]s danger whereas on the other shore there are not only the Islands and Rocks lying off Cape Koamaroo, for I discover'd from the hill from which I had the second View of the Strait a Reef of Rocks stretching from these Islands Six or 7 Miles to the Southward and lay about 2 or 3 Miles offfrom the shore. I shall not pretend here to assign limets to the length of this strait a view of the Chart will best ellusterate that. About North 9 Leagues from [249 Cape Teerawhitte under the same shore is a high remarkable Island that may be distinctly seen from Queen Charlottes Sound from which it lies NEBE1/2E distant Six or seven Leagues. I have called it <1Entry Isle>1s and was taken notice of when we first past it on sunday 14th of last Month. On the East side of Cape Teerawhitte the land trends away SEBE about eight leagues where it ends in a point and is the souther- most land of <1Aeheinomouwe>1 which I have named <1Cape Pallisser>1 in honour of my worthy friend Capt Pallissers (Latitude 41 o34' s. Longitude 183o58' W). It bore from us this day at Noon S 79o E distant 12 or 13 Leagues being than in the latitude of 41o27' s at the same time Cape Koamaroo bore N1/2E distant 7 or 8 Leagues; the souther- most point of land in sight bore s 16o w and the Snowey Mountain sw being about three leagues from the shore and a breast of a deep Bay or Inlet call'd <1Clowdy bay>1 in the bottom of which appear'd low land cover'd with tall trees. THURSDAY 8<1th.>1 In the PM had a fresh breeze at NNE and Clowdy weather. At 3 oClock we were abreast of the Southermost point of land seen at noon which I named <1Cape Campbel,>1s Latde 41o42' S. Longde 184o47' w; it lies SBW distt 12 or 13 Leagues from Cape Koamaroo and together with Cape Pallisser forms the Southern entrance of the Straits, the distce from the one to the other is 13 or 14 Leagues WBS & EBN. From this Cape we steer'd along shore SWBS untill 8 oClock when the wind died away, but an hour after a fresh breeze sprung up at SW and we put the Ship right before it. The reasons for my doing this was owing to a notion which some of the officers had just started that <1Aeheinomouwe>1 was not an Island, founding their opinion on a sup- potision that the land might extend away to the sE from between Cape Turn-again and Cape Pallisser, there being a space of about 12 or 15 Leagues which we had not seen. For my own part I had seen so far into this Sea the first time I discover'd the Strait, together with many other concurrent testimonies of its being an Island that no such supposition ever enter'd my thoughts, but being resolved to 250] clear up every doubt that might arise on so important an object I took the oppertunity of the shifting of the wind to stand to the Eastward and accordingly steer'd NEBE all night. At 9 oClock AM we were abreast of Cape Pallisser where we found the land trend away NE towards Cape Turn-again which I reckoned to be distant from us about 26 Leagues: but as the weather was hazey so that we could not see above 4 or 5 Leagues ahead we still kept standing to the NE with a light breeze at South. A[t] Noon Cape Pallisser bore N 72o West distant 3 Leagues, our Latd by account is 31 o30' South. FRIDAY 9<1th>1. Gentle breezes at South and SSE, Hazey Clowdy weather. In the PM three Canoes came off to the Ship wherein were between 30 & 40 of the Natives who had been pulling after us some time; it appear'd from the behaver of these people that they had heard of our being upon the coast, for they came along side and some of them on board the Ship without shewing the least signs of fear: they were no sooner on board than they asked for nails: but when nails were given them they asked Tupia what they were which was plain that they had never seen any before, yet they not only knowed how to ask for them but knowed what use to apply them tos and therefore must have heard of Nails which they call <1Whow,>1 the name of a tool among them made generally of bones which they use as a chissel in makeing holes &ca. These people asking so readily for nails proves that their con- nections must extend as far North as Cape Kidnappers which is 45 Leagues, for that was the southermst place on this side of the coast we had any traffick with the natives, and it is most probable that the Inhabitants of Queen Charlottes Sound got the little knowlidge they seem'd to have of Iron by the connections they may have with the <1Terawhetteans>1 bordering upon them, for we have no reason to think that the inhabitants of any part of this land had the least knowlidge of Iron before we came among them. After a short stay these people were dismiss'd with proper presents and we continued our Course along shore to the NE untill 11 oClock AM when the weather clearing up we saw Cape Turn-again bearing NBE1/2E distant 7 Leagues. I then called the officers upon deck and asked them if they were now satisfied that this land was an Island to which they answer'd in the affirmative and we hauled our wind to the Eastward. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 40o55' s which is 21 Miles to the Southward of Cape Turn-again it bearing NBE and Cape Pallisser by this days run bears s 43o W 19 or 20 Leagues [251 SATURDAY 10<1th>1. Gentle breezes at SE and Clowdy weather. At 4 PM Tacked and Stood sw untill 8 AM when being not above 3 or 4 Miles from the shore we tacked and stood off two hours, then stood again to the SW untill noon when being in the Latitude of 41o13' S and about two miles from the shore, the land of Cape Pallisser bearing s 53o West had 26 fathom water. SUNDAY 11<1th>1. PM had light breezes from the SE, in the night it was Calm untill 9 AM when a gentle breeze sprung up at ENE with which we made sail to the Southward, having a large swell rowling in from that quarter. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 41o6' s and distant from the Shore 11/2 League, a remarkable hillocks which stands close to the Sea bore N1/2E distant 4 Leagues. At this time two Canoes came along side the Ship with whom we had some little traffick and than dismiss'd them. MONDAY 12<1th>1. Most part of PM had a fresh breeze at NE, which by sun set carried us the length of C. Pallisser and as the weather was clear I had an oppertunity of Viewing the land of this Cape which is of a height sufficient to be seen in clear weather 12 or 14 Leagues off and is of a broken and hilly surface; between the foot of the high land and the Sea is a border of low flat land off which lies some rocks that appear above water. Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain the land near the shore is in many places low and flat and appear'd green and pleasent, but inland are many hills. From Cape Pallisser to Cape Teera-whitte the land is tollerable high makeing in Table points and the Shore forms two Bays,s at least it appear'd so for we weie always too far off this part of the Coast to be particular. The wind continued at NE untill 12 at night when it died away and veer'd round to West and afterwards to South and SSE little wind so that by noon we had advanced no farther then 41 o52' South Latitude Cape Pallisser bearing North distant 5 Leagues and the snowey mountain bore s 83o West. TUESDAY 13<1th>1. PM Light Airs at SE the remainder Calm. At Noon found our selves in the Latitude of 42o2' s. Cape Pallisser bearing N 20o E distant 8 Leagues. WEDNESDAY 14<1th>1. PM a fresh breeze sprung up at NE and we steer'd SWBW for the Southermost land we had in sight which bore from us at 252] sun set S 74o West. At this time we found the Variation to be 15o4' East. At 8 AM it fell Calm, at this time we had run 21 Leagues S 58o w sence yesterday at Noon which brought us abreast of the high Snowey Mountain it bearing from us Nw, ins this direction it lay behind a mountainous ridge of nearly the same height which riseth derectly from the Sea and runs paralell with the shore which lies NE1/2N and SW1/2S.s The NE end of the ridge takes its rise but a little way inland from CaPe Campbel. These mountains are distinctly seen both from Cape Koamaroo and Cape Pallisser being distant from the former SW1/2S 22 Leagues and from the latter wsw 3o Leagues, but they are of a height sufficient to be seen at a much greater distance, by some on board they are thought to be much higher than the Pico of Teneriff which I can not agree to, neither do I think them as high as Mount Egmont on the sw Coast of <1Aehei-no-mouwe>1 founding my opinion on the sumit of the latter being almost wholy cover'd with Snow, where- as it only lies upon these in patches. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 42o34' s, the Southermost land we had in sight bore sw1/2w, and some low land that made like an Island lying close under the foot of the Ridge, bore NwBN, distant about 5 or 6 Leagues.s THURSDAY 15<1th>1. In the PM Four double Canoes wherein were 57 Men Came off to the Ship, they kept at the distance of about a Stones throw from us and would not be prevail'd upon to put along side by all that Tobia could say to them, from this we concluded that they never had heard any thing of our being upon the coast. After looking at [us] for some time the[y] pull'd in for the land like an Island above mentioned on which account I call'd it <1Lookers on>1.s At 8 oClock PM a breeze sprung up at ssw with which we stretched off SE, because some on board thought they saw land in that quarter, we continued on this Course untill 6 oClock AM at which time we had run a Eleven Leagues, but saw no land but that which we had left. Soon after this it fell calm and continued so far about an hour, than a light breeze sprung up at west which afterwards Veer'd to the north and we stood to the westward.s At Noon our Latitude by observation [253 was 42o56' s and the high land we were abreast of yesterday at Noon bore NNW1/2W. FRIDAY 16<1th>1. In the PM had a light breeze NE with which we steer'd West, edging in for the land which was distant from us about 8 Leagues; at 7 oClock the Southermost extreme of the land in sight bore wsw, being about 6 Leagues from the shore. Soon after this it fell calm and continued so most part of the nigh[t] with sometimes light airs from the land. At day light we discover'd land bearing sBw and seemingly detached from the Coast we were upon. About 8 oClock a breeze sprung up at NBE and we steer'd derictly for it. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 43o19' S the Peack on the snowey Mountain bore N 20o East distt 27 Leagues, the southern extremity we could see of that land bore West and the Land discover'd in the morng makeing like an Island extending from SSW to SWBW1/2W distant about 8 Leagues.s Our Course and distance sail'd sence yesterday at Noon is SWBW 43 Miles. Variation by this morning Amplitude 14o39' E. SATURDAY 17<1th>1. PM stood to the Southward for the land above mentioned, with the wind at north a fresh breeze and clear weather. At 8 oClock we had run a 11 Leagues sence noon when the land ex- tended from swBw to NBW being distant from the nearest shore about 3 or 4 Leagues, in this situation had 50 fathom water a fine sandy bottom. Soon after this it fell little wind with calms and continued so untill 6 oClock AM when a light breeze sprung up at Nw which after- wards Veer'd to NE. At sun rise, being very clear, we plainly dis- coverd that the last mentioned land was an Island by seeing part of the land of <1Tovy-poenammu>1 open to the westward of it extending as far as WBS.s At 8 oClock the extremes of the Island bore N 76o W and NNE1/2E and an opening that had the appearence of a Bay or Harbour,s lying near the South point N 20o West distant 3 or 4 Leagues, being in 38 fathom water a brown sandy bottom. This Island which I have 254] named after Mr Banks lies about 5 Leagues from the Coast of <1Tovy->1 <1poenammu,>1 the south point bears S 21 o West from the highest peek on the Snowney mountain so often mentioned and lies in the Latitude of 43o52' South and in the Longitude of 186o30' West by observations made of the Sun and Moon this morning. It is of a circular figure and may be about 24 Leags in compass, the land is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 or 15 Leagues and of a very broken uneven surface, and hath more the appearence of barrenness than fertillity. Last night we saw smook upon it and this morning some people and therefore must be inhabited. Yesterday Lieutenant Gore having the morning watch at the time we first saw this Island, thought he saw land bearing SSE and SEBE, but I who was upon deck at the same time was very certain that it was only Clowds which dissipated as the Sun rose, but neither this nor the runing 14 Leagues to the South, nor the seeing no land to the East- ward of us in the Evening could satisfy Mr Gore but what he saw in the morning was or might be land altho there was hardly a possi- billity of its being so because we must have been more than double the distance from it at that time to what we were either last night or this morning at both of which times the weather was exceeding clear and yet we could see no land either to the Eastward or Southward of us. Notwithstanding all this Mr Gore was of the same opinion this morning; Upon this I order'd the Ship to be wore and to be steer'd ESE by Compass on the other Tack, the point on which he said the land bore at this time from us.s At Noon we were in the Latitude of 44o7' S, the South point of <1Banks's Island>1 bore North distant 5 Leagues. SUNDAY 18<1th>1. Gentle breezes at North and fair weather. pm stood ESE in search of Mr Gores imaginary land, untill 7 oClock at which time we had run 28 Miles sence noon; but seeing no land but that we had left, or signs of any, we bore away sBw and continued upon that Course untill noon, when we found our selves in the Latitude of 45o16', our course and distance saild sence yesterday is s 8o East 70 Miles. The South point of Banks's Island N 6o30' W distant 28 Leagues. Variation pr Ampd this morning 15o30' E. Seeing no signs of land, I thought it to no purpose standing any farther to the Southward, and therefore hauled to the Westward thinking that we were far enough to the Southward to weather all the land we had left, but this opinion [255 was only founded on the information we had had from the natives of Queen Charlottes Sound. s MONDAY 19<1th.>1 PM had a moderate breeze at NNW and North untill 8 oClock when it fell little wind and was very unsettled untill 10 at which time it fixed at South and freshend in such a manner that before the morning it brought us under our close reef'd topsails. At 8 AM having run 28 Leags upon a WBN1/2N Course and now judgeing our selves to be to the westward of the Land of <1Tovy-poenammu,>1 we bore away Nw with a fresh gale at South. At 10 oClock, having run 11 Miles upon this Course, we saw land extending from the sw to the Nw at the distance of about Io Leagues from us which we hauled up for.s At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 44o38', the South East point of Banks's Isld bore N 59o30' East Distant 30 Leags and the Main body of the land in sight WBN. Course and distance sail'd sence yesterday at noon is N 66o45' w 96 Miles. TUESDAY 20<1th>1. All PM had little Wind which Veer'd round from South, by the East to NNE. Steer'd ssw, but got very little to the South- ward on account of a head Sea. At 2 oClock soundd in 35 fathom water a fine Sandy bottom, being about Six Leagues from the land. At 7 oClock the extremes of the land extending from SWBS to NBW distant from the nearest shore 6 Leagues depth of water 32 fathom. At 12 oClock it fell Calm and continued so untill 4 AM when a fresh breeze sprung up at SBW, with which we stood in shore WBS 4 Leagues, our depth of water from 32 to 13 fathom; in this last depth we tacked and stood off being about 3 Miles from the shore which lies nearly north & south and is here very low and flat and continues so up to the skirts of the Hills which are at least 4 or 5 Miles in land. The whole face of the Country appears barren, nor did we see any signs of inhabitants. Latitude at Noon 44o44' S. Longd made from Banks's Island to this land 2o22' West. WEDNESDAY 21<1st>1. Wind at South a fresh gale. At 2 PM being in 50 fathom water and 12 Leagues from the land, we tacked and stood in shore untill 8 oClock when we tacked and Stood off untill 4 AM, than tack'd and stood in. At 8 oClock being 10 Leagues from the land 256] had 57 fathom. At noon being in the Latitude of 44o35' and 5 or 6 Leagues from the land had 36 fathom. Notwithstanding we have carried as much sail as the Ship could bear it is apparent from the Obserd Latitude that we have been drove 3 Leagues to leeward sence yesterday. THURSDAY 22<1d>1. Moderate breezes between the SE and SBW and dark gloomy weather with a Swell from the SE. Plying to windward keeping between 4 and 12 Leagues from the land, depth of water from 35 to 53 fathom a fine sandy bottom. A great many Sea fowl and Gram- puses about the Ship. In the AM condemed 6o fathoms of the best bower Cable and converted it into junk.s At Noon had no observa- tion, but by the land judged our selves to be about 3 Leagues farther north than yesterday. FRIDAY 23<1d>1. Winds southerly a gentle breeze and for the most part Clowdy weather. At sun set, the weather clearing up presented to our View a high peaked mountains bearing NwBN, and at the same time we saw the land more distincter than we had at any time before, extending from North to swBs, the inland parts of which appear'd to be high and mountainous. We cannot as yet tell whether or no this land joins to or makes a part of the land w[e] have left: from the accounts recieved of the natives of Queen Charlottes Sound it ought not because if it did it must have been impossible for us to have sail'd round it in four days; besides, the mountains in land and the Soundings off the Coast seem to indicate this Country to be more extensive than any they spoke of lying to the southward. Having a large hollow swell from the south East which made me expect the wind from the same quarter, we kept plying from between 7 and 15 Leagues from the land, depth of water from 44 to 70 fathoms. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 44o40' s. Longi- tude made from Banks's Island 1 o31' West. SATURDAY 24<1th>1. Calm untill 6 PM at which time a light breeze sprung up at ENE, with which we steer'd SSE all night edgeing offfrom the land because of a hollow swell which we had from the SE, depth of water from 60 to 75 fathom. At day light the wind began to freshen and before noon blowed a fresh gale and veer'd to NNE. At 8 AM saw the land extending as far as swBs which we steer'd directly for and at [257 Noon we were in the Latitude of 45o22' s, the land in sight extending from SW1/2S to NNw makeing high and hilly.s Course and distance run sence yesterday at noon is s 25o w, 47 Miles. In the PM while we lay becalm'd Mr Banks in a small boat shott two Port Egmont Hens which were in every respect the same sort of Birds as are found in great numbers upon the Islands of Faro: they are of a very dark brown plumage with a little white about the under side of their wings and are as large as a moscovy duck; these were the first that we have seen sence we arrived upon the Coast of this Country, but we saw of them for some days before we made land. SUNDAY 25<1th>1. In the PM steerd swBs and sw edgeing in for the land having the advantage of a fresh gale at north which I was over desirious of makeing the most of and by that means carried away the Main Top gt mast and Fore topmast studding sail boom, but these were soon replaced by others. Altho we kept at no great distance from the shore yet the weather was so hazey that we could see nothing destinct upon the land only that there weres a ridge of pretty high hills lying parallel with and but a little way from the sea-coast, which lies sBw and NBE and seem'd to end in a high bluff point to the Southward, which we run the length of by 8 oClock, when being dark and not knowing which way the land trended we brought too for the night having run 15 Leagues upon a SW1/2S Course sence noon. The point bore at this time West distant about 5 Miles, depth of water 37 fathom the bottom small pebble stones. At 4 AM we made sail, but by this time the northerly wind was gone and was succeeded by one from the southward which proved very variable and un- steady. At day light the point above mentioned bore north distant 3 Leagues and we found that the land trended away from it swBw as far as we could see. This point of land I have named <1Cape Saunders>1 in honour of Sr Charless (Latitude 45o55' s, Longitude 189o4' West), it requ[i]res no description to know it by, the Latitude and the Angle made here by the Coast will be found quite sufficient; however there is a remarkable Saddle hill laying near the shore 3 or 4 Leagues sw of 258] the Cape, by which it may always be known when on that side ofit.s From one to four Leagues north of the Cape the shore seem'd to form two or three Bays wherein there appeared to be anchorage and Shelter from SW, westerly and Nw winds.s I had some thoughts of bearing up for one of these places in the morning when the wind came to SW, but the fear of looseing time and the desire I had of pushing to the southward in order to see as much of the coast as possible, or if this land s[h]ould prove to be an Island to get round it, prevented me. Being not far from the shore all this morning we had an oppertunity of viewing the land pretty distinctly: it is of a moderate height, full of hills which appear'd green and woody, but we saw not the least sign of Inhabitants. At Noon Cape Saunders bore N 30o w distant 4 Leagues; Latde per Log, for we had no Observation, 46o0' s. MONDAY 26<1th>1. In the PM had the wind whifling all round the Com- pass, sometimes blowing a fresh gale and at other times almost calm. At 5 oClock it fixed at wsw and soon blowed so hard as to put us past our topsails and to split the fore sail all to peices: after geting another to the yard we continued standing to the southward under two Courses. At 1 AM the wind moderating set the topsails with one reef out; but soon after day light the Gale increased to a Storm with heavy squalls attended with rain; this brought us again under our courses, and the Main topsail being split we unbent it and brought another to the yard. At 6 oClock the southermost land in sight bore WBN and Cape Saunders bore NBw distant eight Leagues. At Noon it bore N 20o W distant 14 Leagues; Latde Obd 46o35'.s TUESDAY 27<1th>1. A very hard gale at SWBW and WSW with heavy squalls attended with showers of rain and a large hollow sea without the least intermission the whole of this 24 hours. We continued under our Courses from noon untill 7 PM when we handed the Main sail and lay too under the fore sail with her head to the southward. Lat. at Noon 46o54', Longd made from Cape Saunders 1 o24' East. WEDNESDAY 28<1th>1. Strong gales at SW with a large sea from the sarne quarter. At 7 PM made sail under the Courses and at 8 AM set the Topsails close reef'd. At Noon being in the Latitude of 47o43' South and Longde. East from Cape Saunders 2o1o' wore and stood to the Northward. [259 [MARCH 1770] THURSDAY 1<1st>1 March. Winds between the sw and NNW a fresh gale. In the PM found the Variation to be 16o34' East. At 8 Tack'd and stood to the Southward with the wind at west which before the morning veer'd to Nw accompan'd with hazey weather and drizling rain, at day light loosed a reef out of each topsail and set some of the small sails. At Noon our Latde by account was 47o52' s and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1o8' East. The New Moon made her appears last night and Tupia told us that this is New Years day at the Island on which account we paid him the proper compliment.s FRIDAY 2<1d>1. Strong gales from the Westwd with heavy squals attended with showers of rain. In the PM stood to the Southward untill 1/2 past 3 when being in the Latitude of 48oo' South and Longde of 188o0' w and seeing no vissible signs of land we tack'd and stood to the northward, having a very large swell from the SWBW. Soon after we tack'd we close reef'd the Topsails and in the night were obliged to hand them, but at day light set them again. At Noon our Latitude by obsern was 46o42' S, Cape Saunders bearing N 46o W. Distant 68 Miles. SATURDAY 3<1d>1. In the PM The winds and wear were the same as yesterday, in the AM it was quite moderate yet the sw swell still continued which makes me conjector that their is no land near in that quarter. At Noon our Latde was again 46o42' S being east of Cape Saunders 1o 30'. SUNDAY 4<1th.>1 At 4 PM the wind coming to the northward we stood to the westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning got up Top gallant yards and set the sails, found the Varn to [be] 16o16' East. Saw several whales, seals and one Penguin, this bird was but small of the sort but seem'd to be such a one as we had never seen before.s We have seen several seals sence we pass'd the Strait, but never saw one upon the whole coast of <1Ahei no mouwe.>1 We sounded both in the night and this morning but found no bottom with 150 fathoms of line. At Noon we saw Cape Saunders bearing N1/2W, our Latitude by observation was 46o 31' South. MONDAY 5<1th.>1 Most part of PM had a fresh breeze at NBE. At 1/2 past 1 saw land bearing wBs which we steer'd for; before dark we were 260] within 3 or 4 Leagues of it and seeing no land farther to the south we were in hopes that this would prove the southern point.s At 7 oClock shortend sail and kept under an easy sail all night standing to the wsw having the wind at Nw and NNw untill 2 AM when it fell calm and soon after a breeze sprung up at SEBS and day light coming on we made sail. Dureing the whole night we saw a large fire upon the land a certain sign of its being inhabitated.s At 7 oClock the extremes of the land bore from N 38o East to West 6o South being distant from the Shore about 3 Leagues. The land appears of a moderate height and not hilly. At 1/2 past 1o oClock the westermost land in sight bore W1/2N distant 7 Leagues. At Noon had fresh gales at SSE and thick hazey weather with rain. Our Latitude by account was 46o50' s and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1o 56' West. TUESDAY 6<1th.>1 PM winds at South by East and South thick hazey weather untill 3 oClock when it cleared up and we saw the land extending from NEBN to NW1/2N and soon after low land makeing like an Island bearing W1/2S. Keeping on our Course to the WBS we in two hours time saw high land over the low land extending to the south- ward as far as SWBS. We could not see this land join to that to the northward of us, there either being a total seperation, a deep bay or low land between them. At 8 oClock being within 3 Leagues of the low land (which we now took to be an Island)s we tack'd and stood to the Eastward having the wind at south and which proved very un- settled all night, by which means and a little bad management I found the Ship in the morning considerably farther to the eastward than I expected, and the wind afterwards coming to SW and WSW so that at noon we found our selves much about the same place as we were yesterday--our Latitude by observation being 46o 50' s. The land extending from NEBE to WBN1/2N, the nearest part bearing North distant 3 Leagues, the land to the swjust in sight.s [261 WEDNESDAY 7<1th.>1 Light airs in the sw quarter, PM clear weather the remainder dark and Clowdy. In the PM found the Variation by several azths and the Ampde to [be] 15o 10' E and by the Ampde in the morning to be 15o 56' East. Stood to the SE untill 8 AM then tackd and stood to the NW, but it soon after fell calm and continued so untill noon when by our account we were in the Latitude of 47o 6' South and had made 12 Miles Easting sence yesterday at Noon. THURSDAY 8<1th.>1 Light airs next to a Calm from SSE to NE with which we kept stearing to the SW, but made but little way because of a swell which took us right ahead. At day light AM we saw or thought we saw from the mast head the land which we have left to the north- ward of us join to that to the sw of us, and at the same time we im- magined we saw the land extend to the Southward as far as ssw, but after steering this Course untill noon, we discover'd our mistake for there was no land to be seen to the Southward of West which course we now steer'd being by observation in the Latitude of 47o 12' S. Longitude made from Cape Saunders West 2o 2'. FRIDAY 9<1th.>1 PM winds at North a gentle breeze and clear weather. Stood to the westward untill sun set at which time the extremes of the land bore from NBE to West distant about 7 or 8 Leagues, depth of water 55 fm. Variation by the Ampd 16o 29' E. The wind now veerd to the westward and as the weather was fine and Moon light we kept standing close upon a wind to the sw all night: at 4 AM sounded and had 60 fm. At day light we discover'd under our lee bow a ledges of rocks (on which the sea broke very high) extend from SBW to WBS and not above 3/4 of a Mile from us, yet upon sounding we had 45 fm water a rocky bottom. The wind being at Nw we could not weather the Ledge and as I did not care to run to Leeward we tacked and made a trip to the Eastward but the wind soon after coming to north inabled us to go clear of all. Our soundings in passing within the Ledge was from 35 to 47 fm a rocky bottom. This Ledge lies SE Six Leagues from the southermost part of the land and SEBS from some remarkable hills which stand near the shore. These rocks are not the only dangers that lay here for about three leagues to the northward of them is another ledge of rocks laying full three Leagues from the land whereon the sea broke very high, as we pass'd these rocks in the night at no great distance and discover'd the others close under our lee at day light it is apparent that we had a very fortunate escape. I have named them the <1Traps>1 because they lay as such to catch unwarys strangers. At noon our Latitude by Observation was 47o26' s, Longde 262] made from Cape Saunders 3o4' W. The land in sight (which has very much the appearence of an Island) extending from NEBN to NWBW distant from the shore about 4 or 5 Leagues; the eastermost Ledge of rocks bore ssE distant 11/2 Leagues and Northermost NE1/2E 3 Leagues. This land is of a moderate height and hath a very barren Aspect, not a tree to be seen upon it, only a few small shrubs.s There were several white patches on which the Suns rays reflected very strongly which I take to be a kind of Marbles such as we have seen in many places of this country particularly to the northward.s SATURDAY 10<1th>1. PM Moderate breeze at NWBN and north with which we stood close upon a wind to the westward. At sunset the Souther- most point of land which I afterwards named <1South Cape>1 and which lies on the Latde 47o19' S, Longd 192o12' West from Greenwich bore N 38o E distant 4 Leagues and the westermost land in sight bore N 2o East, this last was a small Isld lying off the point of the Main.s I began now to think that this was the southermost land and that we should be able to get round it by the west, for we have had a large hollow swell from the sw ever sence we had the last gale of wind from that quarter which makes me think that there is no land in that direction. In the night it began to blow in so much that at or before day light we were brought under our two Courses but at 8 AM it fell moderate and we set the topsails close reef'd, and the Mizn and Mizn staysail being split we unbent them and bent others. At Noon the wind coming to west we tack'd and stood to the northward, having no land in sight.s Our Latitude by Observation was 47o 33' s, Longde west from the South Cape 0o 59'. SUNDAY 11<1th.>1 Winds between the West and Nw a fresh gale and clear weather. Stood away NNE close upon a wind without seeing any land untill 2 AM when we discover'd an Island bearing NWBN distant [263 4 or 5 Leagues. Two hours after this we saw the land ahead upon which we tack'd and stood off untill 6 oClock, then Stood in in order to take a nearer View of it. At 11 oClock being about 3 Leagues from the land and the wind seem'd to incline on shore we tack'd and Stood offto the southward, and now we thought that the land to the south- ward or that we have been sailing round these two days past was an Island, because there appear'd an open Channel between the North part of that land and the south part of the others in which we thought we saw the small Island we were in with on the 6th instant, but when I came to lay this land down upon paper from the several bearings I had taken it appear'd that there was but little reason to suppose it an Id; on the Contrary I hardly have a doubt but what itjoins to and makes a part of the main lands the western extremety of which bore from [us?] at Noon N 59o West and the Island seen in the morning S 59o West distant 5 Leagues, Latd Obsd 46o 24' S. This Island I have named after Dr Solander (Latde 46o 31' s,s Longde 192o 49' W) it is nothing but a barren rock of about a Mile in circuit remar[k]ably high and lies full 5 Legues from the Main. The shore of the main lies 264] nearest EBS and WBN and forms a large open Bay in which there is no appearence of a harbour or other place of safety for shipping against sw and southerly winds. The face of the Country bears a very ruged aspeckt being full of high craggy hills on the summits of which were several patches of snow, however the land is not wholy barren we could see wood not only in the Vallies but on several of the hills, but we saw no signs ofinhabitants. MONDAY 12<1th.>1 Fresh gales between the West and NW latter part Squally with rain. Stood to the swBs untill 11 AM at which time the wind Shifted to the SWBW, we wore and Stood to the NNW, being then in the Latitude of 47o 40' S and in the Longitude 193o 50' West haveing a hollow sea from the South west. TUESDAY 13<1th.>1 Strong gales between the swBw and ssw with a large hollow sea from the same quarter. In the pm had frequent squals with showers of rain, in the night had several very heavy squalls attended with showers of hail which obliged us to take in our top- sail[s] during the night. Steer'd NNW untill 6 am when seeing no land we Steer'd NBE and set the main topsail close reef'd. At 8 oClock Set the fore topsail single reef'd, loosed all the reefs out of the Main top- sail and steer'd NEBE1/2E in order to make the land. At 10 saw it bearing ENE and appear'd to be very high but being hazey over it we could see nothing distinct neither now nor at noon when by Obsern we were in the Latitude of 46o 0' s. Course and distance sail'd sence yesterday N 5o W. 96 Miles and Longitude made from the South Cape 1o 40' West. WEDNESDAY 14<1th.>1 In the PM had a fresh gale from the Southward attended with squals. At 2 oClock it clear'd up over the land which appear'd high and Mountainous. At half past 3 double reef'd the Topsails and haul'd in for a Bay wherein there appear'd to be good anchorage and into which I had thoughts of going with the Ship, but after standing in an hour we found the distance too great to run before dark and it blowed too hard to attempt it in the night or even to keep to windward, for these reasons we gave it up and bore away aLong shore. This Bay I have named <1duskey Bay>1 it lies in the Latitude of 45o47' S, it is about 3 or 4 Miles broad at the entrance and seems to be full as deep, in it are several Islands behind which there must be shelter from all winds provided there is a sufficient depth of water. The north point of this bay when it bears SEBS is very remarkable there being off it five high peaked rocks standing up like the four fingers and thum of a mans hand on which account I have named it <1Point five fingers.>1 The land of this point is further remarkable by being [265 the only level land near it and extend near two leagues to the north- ward; it is pretty high, wholy cover'd with wood and hath very much the appearence of an Island by its aspect being so very different from the land behind it which is nothing but barren rocky mountains. At sun set the Southermost land in sight bore due south distant 5 or 6 Leagues and as this is the westermost point ofland upon the whole Coast I have call'd it <1West Cape.>1 It lies about three leagues to the southward of the Bay above mentioned in the Latitude of 45o 54' S and in the Longitude of 193o 17' West.s The land of this Cape seems to be of a moderate height next the sea and hath nothing remarkable about it that we could see except a very white Clifts two or three leagues to the southward of it; the land to the southward of Cape West trends away towards the sE, to the northward it trends NNE and NE. At 7 oClock brought the Ship too under the fore sail with her head off shore having a fresh gale at SBE. At Midnight it moderated and we wore and lay her head in shore untill 4 AM than made sail and steerd along shore NE1/2N having a moderate breeze at SSE. At Noon we were by obsern in the Latde of 45o 13' s. Course and distance saild sence yesterday N 41o E. 62 Miles, Longde made from Cape West 0o 29' East, being at this time about 11/2 league from shore; sounded but had no ground with 70 fms of line. A little before noon we pass'd a smalls narrow opening in the land where there appear'd to be a very snug harbours form'd by an Island lying in the middle of the opening at least such was the appearences. It lies in the Latde of 45o16' s. In land behind this opening were mountains the summits of which were cover'd with snow that seem'd to have fallen lately and this is not to be wonder'd at for we have found it very cold for these 2 days past. The Land on each side of the entrance of this harbour riseth almost perpendicular from the Sea to a very considerable height and this was the reason why I did not attempt to go in with the Ship because I saw clearly that no winds could b[l]ow there but what was either right in or right out. Thiss is Westerly or Easterly, and it certainly would have been highly imprudent in me to have put into a place where we could not have got out but with a wind that we have lately found does not blows one day in a month: I mention this because there 266] were some on board who wanted me to harbour at any rate without in the least considering either the present or future concequences.s THURSDAY 15<1th.>1 Clear weather winds at SW and SWBS a gentle breeze except in the night when we had variable light airs and calms. In the evening being about 2 Leagues from the land we sounded but had no ground with 103s fathom of line. Variation pr Azth 14o' East, pr Ampde 15o 2' East. With what wind we had we made the best of our way along shore to the NE keeping at the distance of 2 or 3 Leagues from the land. At noon we were in the Latitude of 44o 47', haveing run only 12 leagues upon a NE1/4N Course sence yesterday at noon. Longitude made from Cape West 1o 3' East. FRIDAY 16<1th.>1 Winds at SW a fresh breeze and clear weather. Steer'd along shore NE1/2E untill Six oClock pm when we shortend sail and brought too for the night. Variation pr Azths 13o48' East. At 4 AM made sail and stood in for the land. At day light saw the appearence of an Inlet into the land but upon a nearer approach found that it was only a deep Vally bounded on each side by high landss upon which we bore away NE1/4E along shore, keeping about 4 or 5 Miles off. At Noon the Northeastermost point of land in sight bore N 60o East Distant 10 Miles, our Latitude by observation was 44o5' and Longde made from Cape West 2o8' East.s SATURDAY 17<1th.>1 Continued our course along shore having in the pm the advantage of a fresh gale at sw. At 2 oClock past by the point [267 above mentioned which is of a moderate height with steep red clifts down which falls four small streams of water on which account it is named <1Cascades Point.>1 Latde 44o 0' S, Longitude 2o 20' East from Cape West. From this point the land at first trends N 76o E but afterwards more to the northward. ENE 8 leagues from the point and near the shore lies a small low Islands which bore from us sBE distant 11/2 Leage at 7 oClock, at which time we shortend sail & brought too under the topsails with her head off shore having 33 fath. water a fine sandy bottom. At 10 had 50 fathom and at 12 were in 65 fathom haveing drove about 5 Miles NNW sence we brought too. Two hours after this had no ground with 140 fathom which shews that the soundings extend but a little way from the land. From 2 to 8 am had it calm and hazey with drizling rain, at which time a breeze sprung up at sw with which we steer'd along shore NEBE1/4E keeping about 3 Leagues from the land. At noon had no observation being hazey weather with rain. Our run sence yesterday at noon is NEBE 55 Miles. Longitude from Cape West 3o 12' East.s SUNDAY 18<1th>1. In the PM had a fresh breeze at SWBW attended with drizling rain. At 8 oClock being about 3 Leagues from the land shortend sail and brought too having run 1o Leagues NEBE sence noon. At this time had 44 fathom water and 2 hours before had 17 fathom a fine sandy bottom being than about 1 League from the shore. Had it calm the most part of the night and untill 10 oClock AM when a light breeze sprung up at SWBW and we made sail along shore NEBN having a large swell from the WSW which had risen in the night. At noon Latitude in per Obsern 43o 4' S. Course and distance saild sence yesterday is N 54o East 54 Miles. Longitude made from Cape West 4o12' East. The Mountains and some of the Vallies we observed this morning were wholy coverd with snow,s part of which we suppos'd to have fallen in the pm and fore part of the night at the time that we had rain, and yet the weather is not cold. MONDAY 19<1th.>1 In the pm had a fresh breeze at SWBW and WSW which we made the most of untill 6 oClock when we shortend sail and at 10 268] brought too and sounded and had 115 fathom water judging our selves to be about 5 Leagues from the land. At midnight it fell little wind on which accou[n]t we made sail, at 8 am the wind veer'd to the NWBN with which we stood to the NE close upon a wind untill noon at which time we tack'd being about 3 Leagues from the land and by observation in the Latitude of 42o 8' and Longitude from Cape West 5o 5' E. Course and distance run sence yesterday at Noon N 35o E. 68 Ms. Depth of water 65 fathoms, the land extending NEBN to ssw. TUESDAY 20<1th>1. Fresh gales at NWBN, and NBW. PM fair weather the remainder hazey with rain and Squally which brought us under close reef'd topsails. Stood to the westward untill 2 am when we made a trip to the Eastward and afterward stood again to the westward untill noon when by our reckoning we were in the Latitude of 42o23' S. Course and distance saild S 74o West 54 Miles. Longitude made from Cape West 5o55' East. Tack'd and stood to the eastward. WEDNESDAY 21<1st>1. In the pm had a fresh gale at NBW attended with rain untill 6 oClock when the wind shifted to South and ssw and continued to blow a fresh gale with which we steer d NEBN untill 6 am at which time we hauld in EBN in order to make the land which we saw soon after. At noon our latitude by Accot was 41o 37' and Longde from Cape West 5o 42' E. Course and distance saild sence yesterday N 60o E 92 Miles. At this time we were not above 3 or 4 Leagues from the land but being very Foggy upon it we could see nothing distinct, and as we had not much wind and a prodigious swell rowling in upon the Shore from the wsw, I did not think it safe to go nearer.s THURSDAY 22d. In the pm had a gentle breeze from the ssw with which we steerd along shore NE untill 8 oClock when being about 2 or 3 Leagues from shore we sounded and had but 34 fathom upon which we hauld off NWBN untill 11 then brought too having at this time 64 fathom. At 4 AM made sail to the NE, wind at ssw a light breeze. At 8 oClock the wind Veer'd to the westward and soon after fell Calm. At this time we were about 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore and [269 in 54 fathom water, having a large swell from the wsw rowling Obliquely upon the shore, which put me under a good deal of apprehension that we should be obliged to anchor, but by the help of a light air now and then from the sw quarter we were enabled to keep the Ship from driving much nearer the shore. At Noon the norther- most land in sights bore NEBE1/4E distant 8 or 10 Leagues. Our Latitude by account was 40o 55' S. Longitude from Cape West 6o 35' E. Course and distance saild sence yesterday N 36o E 42 Miles. Very foggy over the land. FRIDAY 23<1rd>1. Light airs from the southward, at intervals Calm, the fore part hazey, the remainder clear pleasent weather. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 40o 36'30" S, Longitude from Cape West 6o52' East. The Eastermost point of land in sight bore E 10o North distant 7 Leagues and a bluff head or point, we were abreast off yesterday at noon, off which lay some rocks above water, bore S 18o West distant 6 Leagues: this point I have named <1Rocks point,>1 Latitude 40o 50's South. Having now nearly run down the whole ofthiss Nw Coast [of] <1Tovy->1 <1poenammu>1 it is time I should discribe the face of the Country as it hath at different times appeard to us. I have mentioned on the 11th Instant at which time we were off the Southern part of the Island, that the land seen than was Ruged and Mountainous and there is great reason to beleive that the same ridge of Mountains extends nearly the whole length of the Island.s From between the Westermost land seen that day and the Eastermost seen on the 13th there is a space of about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Sea Coast unexploreds but the mountains inland were Visible enough. The land near the Shore about <1Cape>1 <1West>1 is rather low and riseth with a gradual assent up to the foot of the mountains and appear'd to be mostly cover'd with Wood; from <1Point five fingers>1 down to the Latitude of 44o20' there is a narrow ridge of hills rising dire[c]tly from the sea which are cloathed with wood. Close behind these hills lies the ridge of Mountains which are of a prodigious height and appear to consist of nothing but barren rocks, cover'd in many places with large patches of snow which perhaps have laid their sence the creation. No country upon earth can appear with a more ruged and barren aspect than this doth from the sea for as far inland as the eye can reach nothing is to be seen but the sumits of these Rocky mountains which seem to lay so near one another as not to admit any Vallies between them. From the Latitude of 44o 20' to the Latitude 42o 8' these mountains lay farther inland. The Country between them and the Sea consists of woody hills and Vallies of various extent both for height and depth and hath much the appearence of fertility, many of the Vallies are large low and flat and appeard to be wholy cover'd with Wood but it is very probable that great part of the land is taken up in Lak[e]s Ponds &ca as is very common in such like places.s From the last mentioned Latitude to <1Cape Farewell,>1 (afterwards so call'd)s the Land is not distinguished by anything remarkable, it riseth into hills directly from the sea and is cover'd with wood. While we were upon this part of the coast the weather was foggy in so much that we could see but a very little way in land, however we sometimes saw the summits of the Mountains above the fogg and clowds which plainly shew'd that the inland parts were high and Mountainous and gave me great reason to think that thier is a continued chain of Mountains from the one end ofthe Island to the other. SATURDAY 24<1th>1. In the pm had a gentle breeze at sw which by dark run us the length of the Eastren point set at noon, and not knowing what Course the land took on the other side we brought too in 34 fathom water about one league from the land. At 8 oClock it falling little wind we fill'd and stood on untill 12 at which time we brought too untill 4 am than made sail. At day light we saw low land ex- tending from the above point to the ESE as far as the eye could reach, the Eastern extremity of which appeared in round hillocks. By this time the wind had veer'd to the Eastward which obliged us to ply to wind ward. At Noon the point above mentioned bore swBs distant 16 Miles--Latde obserd 40o19' S. This Point I afterward named <1Cape>1 <1Fare-well>1 for reasons which will be given in their proper place.s [271 SUNDAY 25<1th>1. Winds Easterly, towards noon had little wind and hazey with Rain--made several trips but gain'd nothing to wind- ward so that at noon our situation was nearly the same as yesterday.s MONDAY 26<1th>1. At 3 PM the wind came to north and we steer'd ESE with all the sail we could set untill dark when we shortend sail untill the morning having thick misty weather all night. We kept the lead going continualy and had from 37 to 42 fathoms. At day light we saw the land bearing SEBE and an Island laying near it bearing EsE distant 5 Leagues, this I knew to be the Island seen from the Entrance of Queen Charlottes Sounds from which it bears NWBN distant 9 Leagues. At Noon it bore SE distant 4 or 5 Miles and the Nw head of Queen Charlottes Sound bore SEBS distant 101/2 Leagues. Latitude Observed 40o 33' s. TUESDAY 27<1th>1. Fresh breeze of wind westerly and hazey misty weather with drizling rain. As we have now circumnavigated the whole of this Country it is time for me to think of quiting of it, but before I do this it will be necessary first to compleat our water especialy as we have on board above 3o Tuns of Casks empty and knowing that there is a bay between the above mentioned Island and Queen Charlottes Sound, wherein no doubt there is anchorages and convenient watering places, accordingly in the PM we hauled round the Island and into the bay, leaving three more Islandss on our star- board hand which lay close under the west shore 3 or 4 miles within the entrance. As we run in we kept the lead going and had from 4o to 12 fathom. At 6 oClock we anchord in a 11 fathom water a Muddy bottom under the west shore in the second Cove within the fore mentioned Islands.s At day light AM I took a boat and went to look for a watering place and a proper birth to moor the Ship in both of which I found convenient enough. After the Ship was Moord I sent an officer ashore to superintend the watering and the Carpenter with his crew to cut wood while the long-boat was employ'd carrying a shore empty casks. 272] WEDNEsDAY 28<1th>1. Winds Westerly which in the AM blowed a fresh gale attend[ed] with rain. Employ'd geting on board Wood and water and fishing in the latter of which we are pretty successfull. THURSDAY 29<1th>1. In the PM had a strong gale from the westward, in the AM had variable light airs from the eastward and hazey rainy weather the whole day which however did not prevent us from geting on board wood and water. FRIDAY 30<1th>1. Winds at SE a moderate breeze, the first and middle parts dark hazy weather with rain the latter fair. In the AM as the wind seem'd to be settled at sE and having nearly compleated our water we warp'd the Ship out of the Cove in order to have room to get under sail, before this was done it was Noon at which time I went away in the Pinnace in order to examine the Bay and to explore as much ofit as the little time I had would admit. SATURDAY 31<1st>1. In the PM after rowing a League and a half or two Leagues up the Bay I landed upon a point of land on the west side where from an eminency I could see this western arm of the bay run in SWBW about 5 Leagues farther yet did not see the head of it. There appear'd to be several other inlets or at least small bays, between this and the NW head of Queen Charlottes sound in every one of which I make no doubt but what there is anchorage and shelter for ship[s]s as they are partly cover'd from the sea wind by the Islands which lay without them. The land about this bay at least what I could see of it is of a very hilly uneven surface and appears to be mostly cover'd with wood, shrubs, Firns &ca which renders traveling both difficult and fatigueing. I saw no inhabitants neither have we seen any sence we have been in the bay, but met with several of there hutts all of which appear'd to have been at least twelve months deserted. Upon my return to the Ship in the evening I found the water &ca all on board and the Ship ready for sea and being now resolved to quit this country altogether and to bend my thoughts towards returning home by such a rout as might conduce most to the advantage of the service I am upon, I consulted with the officers upon the most eligible way of puting this in execution. To return by the way of <1Cape Horn>1 was what I most wish'd because by this rout we should have beens able to prove the existence or non existence of a Southern Continent which yet remains doubtfull; but in order to ascertain this we must have kept in a high latitude in the very depth of winter but the condition of the ship in every respect was not thought sufficient for such an undertaking. For the same reason the thoughts of proceeding [273 directly to the Cape of Good Hope was laid a side especialy as no discovery of any moment could be hoped for in that rout. It was therefore resolved to return by way of the East Indies by the following rout:s upon leaving this coast to steer to the westward untill we fall in with the East Coast of New Holland and than to follow the deriction of that Coast to the northward or what other direction it may take untill we arrive at its northern extremity, and if this should be found impracticals than to endeavour to fall in with the lands or Islands discover'd by Quiros. With this View at day light in the morning we got under sail and put to sea having the advantage of a fresh gale at SE and clear weather. At Noon the Islands which lies off the NW point of the Bay bore E 9o distant 10 Miles. Our Latitude by observation was 40o 35' S. This Bay I have named <1Admiralty Bay>1 the NW Point <1Cape>1 <1Stephens>1 and the SE point <1Point Jackson>1 after the two Secretaries.s It may always be know[n] by the Island above Mentioned which is pretty high and lies NE 2 Miles from Cape Stephens Latde 40o 37' S, Longitude 185o 6' West. Between this Island and Cape Farewell which is SBN and EBS distant 14 or 15 Leagues from each other the Shore forms a large deep bay the bottom of which we could hardly see in sailing in a straight line from the one Cape to the other: but it is not attall improbable but what it is all low land next the sea as we have met with less water here than on any other part of the Coast at the same distance from land. However a Bay there is and is known [on] the Chart by the name of <1Blind Bay.>1 But I have reason to believe this to be Tasmans Murderers Bay.s Before I quit this land altogether I shall give a short and general discription of the Country, its Inhabitants their manners, Customs &ca in which it is necessary to observe that many things are founded only on Conjetor for we were too short a time in any one place to learn much of their interior policy and therefore could only draw conclutions from what we saw at different times. 274] Part of the Easts Coast of this Country was first discover'd by <1Abel>1 <1Tasman>1 in 1642 and by him calld <1New Zeland,>1 he however never landed upon it probably he was discouraged from it by the natives killing 3 or 4 of his people at the first and only place he anchor'd at. This country, which before now was thought to be a part of the imaginarys southern continent, co[n]sists of Two large Islands divided from each other by a strait or passage of 4 or 5 Leagues broad. They are Situated between the Latitudes of 34o and 48o s and between the Longitude of 181o and 194o West from the Meridion of Greenwh. The situation offew parts ofthe world are better determined than these Islands are being settled by some hundredss of Observa- tions of the Sun and Moon and one of the transit of Mercury made by Mr Green who was sent out by the Royl Society to observe the Transit of Venus.s The Northermost of these Islands, as I have before Observed is call'd by the Natives <1Aehei no mouwe>1 and the Southermost <1Tovy>1 <1Poenammu,>1 the former name we were well assurd comprehended the [275 whole of the Northern Island, but we were not so well satisfied with the latter whether it comprehended the whole of the Southern Island or only a part of it.s This last according to the accounts of the Natives of Queen Charlottes Sound ought to consist of two Ilds one of which at least we were to have saild round in a few days, but this was not verify[ed] by our own observations. I am inclinable to think that they know'd no more of this land than what came within the limets of their sight.s The Chart which I have drawn will best point out the figure and extent of these Islands, the situation ofthe Bays and harbours they contain and the lesser Islands lay about them. And now I have mentioned the Chart I shall point out such places as are drawn with sufficient accuracy to be depended upon and such as are not, begining at <1Cape Pallisser>1 and proceed round <1Aehei no mouwe>1 by the East Cape &ca. The Coast between these two Capes I believe to be laid down pretty accurate both in its figure and the Course and distance from point to point. The oppertunities I had and the methods I made use on to obtain these requesites were such as could hardly admit of an error; from the <1East Cape>1 to <1Cape Maria Vandiemen>1 altho it cannot be perfectly true yet it is without any very material error, some few places however must be excepted and these are very doubtfull and are not only here but in every other part of the chart pointed out by a prick'd or broken line. From <1Cape Maria Vandiemen>1 up as high as the Latitude of 36o 15' we seldom were nearer the Shore than from 5 to 8 Leagues and therefore the line of the Sea Coast may in some places be erroneous; from the above latitude to nearly the length of Entry Island we run along and near the shore all the way and no circumstance occur'd that made me liable to commit any material error. Excepting Cape Teerawhitte we never came near the shore between Entry Island and Cape Pallisser and therefore this part of the Coast may be found to differ something from the truth. In short I believe that this Island will never be found to differ materialy from the figure I have given it and that the coast affords few or no harbours but what are either taken notice of in this Journal or in some measure point[ed] out in the Chart; but I cannot say so much for <1Tovy-poenammu,>1 the Season of the year and circumstance of the Voyage would not permit me to spend so much time about this Island as I had done at the other and the blowing weather we fre- quently met with made it both dangerous and difficult to keep upon the Coast. However I shall point out the places that may be erroneous 276] in this as I have done in the other. From Queen Charlottes Sound to Cape Campbel and as far to the sw as the Latitude 43o will be found to be pretty accurate, between this Latitude and the Latitude 44o 20 the coast is very doubtfully discribed, a part of which we hardly if att all saw. From this last mentioned Latitude to <1Cape Saunders>1 we were generally at too great a distance to be particular and the weather at the same time was unfavourable. The Coast as it is laid down from Cape Saunders to Cape South and even to Cape West is no doubt in many places very erroneous as we hardly ever were able to keep near the shore and were some times blowen off altogether. From the <1West Cape>1 down to <1Cape Fare-well>1 and even to <1queen Charlottes>1 <1Sound>1 will in most places be found to differ not much from the truth. Mention is likewise made in the Chart of the appearence or Aspect of the face of the Country. With respect to <1Tovy poenammu>1 it is for the most part of a very Mountainous and to all appearences a barren Country. The people in Queen Charlottes Sound, those that came off to us from under the Snowey Mountain and the fire we saw to the SW of Cape Saunders were all the inhabitants or signs of inhabitants we saw upon the whole Island. But most part of the Sea Coast of <1Aeheinomouwe>1 except the sw side is well inhabited and altho it is a hilly mountainous Country yet the very hills and mountains are many of them cover'd with wood, and the Soil of the planes and Vallies appeared to be rich and fertile and such as we had an op- pertunity to examine we found to be so in a high degrees and not very much incumberd with woods; it was the opinion of every body on board that all sorts of European grain fruits Plants &ca would thrive here. In short was this Country settled by an Industrus people they would very soon be supply'd not only with the necessarys but many of the luxuries of life. The Sea Bays and Rivers abound with a great varitys of excellent fish the most of them unknown in England, besides Lobsters which were allow'd by every body to be the best they ever had eat, Oy[s]ters and many other sorts of shell fish all excellent in their kind. Sea and water fowles of all sorts are however in no great plenty, those known in Europe are Ducks, Shags, Gannets & gulls all of which were eat by us and found exceeding good, indeed hardly any thing came amiss to us that could be eat by man. Land fowl are likewise in no great plentys and all of them except quals are I beleive unknown in Europe, these are exactly like those [277 we have in England.s The country is certainly destitute of all sorts of beasts either wild or tame except Dogs and Ratts,s the former are tame and live with the people who breed and bring them up for no other purpose than to eat and ratts are so scarce that not only I but many others in the ship never saws one. Altho we have seen some few Seals and once a Sea Lyon upon this coast yet I beleive that they are not only very scarce but seldom or ever come a shore,s for if they did the natives would certainly find out some method of Killing them the Skins of which they no doubt would preserve for Clothing as well as the skins of Dogs and birds the only skins we ever saw among them. But they must sometimes get whales because many of their Patoo patoos are made of the bones of some such like fish and an orament they wear at their breasts (on which they set great Value) which we suppose'd to be made of the tooth of a whale and yet we know of no method or instrument they have to kill these animals.s In the woods are plenty of excellent timber fit for all purposes excepting Ships Mast[s] and perhaps upon a close examination some might be found not improper for that purpose. There grows spon- taneously every where a kind of very broad pladed grass like flags of the nature of hemps of which might be made the very best of Cordage Canvas &ca. There are of two sorts the one finer than the other, of these the natives make cloth, rope, lines, netts &ca. Iron ore is undoubtedly to be found here particularly about Mercury bay where we found great quantities of Iron sand, however we met with no ore of any sort neither did we ever see any sort of Metal with the natives. We met with some stones in Admiralty Bay that appear'd to be Min- eral in some degree but Dr Solander was of opinion that they con- tain'd no sort of Metal: the white Stone we saw near the South Cape and some other parts to the Southward which I took to be a kind of Marble such as I had seen on one of the Hills I was upon in Mercury bay, Mr Banks I afterwards found was of opinion that they were Mineral to the highest degree, who is certainly a much better judge of these things than I am and therefore I might be mistaken in my 278] opinion, which wass only founded on what I had before seen not only in this country but in other parts where I have been; and at the same time I must observe we were not less than Six or Eight leagues from the land and nearer it was not possible for us at that time to come without runing the ship into apparent danger. However I am no judge how far Mineral can be distinguished as such--certain it is that in the southern parts of this country there are whole Mountains of nothing else but stone, some of which no doubt may be found to contain metal. Should it ever become an object of settleings this Country the best place for the first fixing of a Colony would be either in the River Thames or the Bay of Islands, for at either of these places they would have the advantage of a good harbour and by means of the former an easys communication would be had and settlements might be extended into the inland parts of the Country, for at a very little trouble and expence small Vessels might be built in the River proper for the Navigating thereof. It is too much for me to assert how little water a Vessel ought to draw to navigate this River even so far up as I was in the boat, this depends intirely upon the depth of water that is upon the bar or flats that lays before the narrow part of the river, which I had not an oppertunity of making myself acquainted with but I am of opinion that a Vessel that draws not above 10 or 12 feet water may do it with ease.s So far as I have been able tojudge of the genius of these people it doth not appear to me to be attall difficult for Strangers to form a settleme[n]t in this Country. They seem to be too much divided among themselves to unite in opposing, by which means and kind and gentle usuage the Colonists would be able to form strong parties among them. The Natives of this Country are a strong raw boned well made Active people rather above than under the common size especialy the men, they are all of a very dark brown Colour with black hair, thin black beards and white teeth and such as do not disfigure their faces by tattowing &ca have in general very good features. The men generaly wear their hair long coombd up and tied upon the crown of their heads, some of the women wear it long and loose upon their Shoulders, old women especialy, others again wear it crop'd short: their coombs are some made of bone and others of wood, they some- times wear them as an ornament stuck upright in thier hair. They seem to injoy a good state of hilth and many of them live to a good old age. Many of the old and some of the middle aged men have thier faces mark'd or tattow'd with black and some few we have seen who [279 have had their buttocks thighs and other parts of their bodies mark'd but this is less common. The figures they mostly use are spirals drawn and connected together with great nicety and judgement; they are so exact in the application of these figures that no difference can be found between the one side of the face and the other if the whole is mark'd, for some have only one side and some a little on both sides, hardly any but the old men have the whole tattowd. From this I conclude that it takes up some time perhaps years to finish the opera- tion which all who have begun may not have perseverance enough to go through, as the manner in which it must be done must certainly cause intolerable pain and may be the reason why so few are mark'd att all, at least I know no other. The women inlay the colour of black under the skins of their lips and both sexes paint their faces and bodies at times more or less with red oker mix'd with fish oyle. Their common clothing are very much like square thrum'd mattss that are made of rope yarns &ca to lay at the doors or passages Into houses to clean one shoes upon, these they tye round their necks the thrum'd side out and are generaly large enough to cover the body as low as the knee; they are made with very little preparation of the broad grass plant before mentioned. Besides these thrum'd matts as I call them, they have other much finer clothing made of the same plant after it is bleached and prepar'd in such a manner that it is as white and all most as soft as flax but much stronger; of this they make peices of cloth about 5 feet long and 4 broad, these are wove some peices close and others very open, the former are as stout as the strongest sail cloth and not unlike it, and yet it is all work'd or made by hand with no other Instrument than a needle or Bodkin.s To one end of every peice is generaly work'd a very neat border of different colours of four or Six inches broad and they very often trim them with peices of dog skin or birds feathers.s These peices of cloth they wear as they do the others tying one end round their necks with a peice of string to the one end of which is fix'd a needle or bodkin made of bone by means of which they can easily fasten or put the String through any part of the cloth. They sometimes wear peices of this kind of Cloth round their middles as well as over their 280] Shoulders but this is not common especialy with the men who hardly ever wear any thing about their middles observing no sort of decency in that respect, neither is it att all uncommon for them to go quite naked without any one thing about them besides a belt round their waste to which is generaly fasten'd a small string which they tye round the Prepuce. In this manner I have seen hundreds of them come off to and on board the Ship but they generaly had their proper cloathing in the boat along with them to put on if it rain'd &ca. The women on the other hand always wear something round their Middle, generaly a short thrum'd Matt which reaches as low as their knees; sometimes indeed I have seen them with only a bunch of grass or Plants before ty'd on with a peice of fine plating made of sweet sented grass;s they likewise wear a peice of cloth over their shoulders as the Men do, this is generaly of the thrum'd kind. I hardly ever saw a woman weare a peice ofthe fine cloth. One day a[t] Tolago I saw a strong proff that the women never appear naked at least before strangers. Some of us happen'd to land upon a small Island where several of them were naked in the water gatherings Lobsters and Shell fish. As soon as they saw us some of them hid themselves among the rocks and the rest remain'd in the Sea untill they had made them- selves aprons of the Sea weed and even than when they came out to us they shew'd manifest signs of Shame and those who had no method of hiding their nakedness would by no means appear before us. The women have all very soft Voices and may by that alone be known from the men. The makeing of Cloth and all other Domestick work is I beleive wholy done by them and the more labourous work such as buildg Boats, Houses, Tilling the ground, fishing &ca by the Men.s Both men and women wear oraments at their ears and about their necks. These are made of Stone, bone, Shells &ca and are variously shaped, and some I have seen wear human teeth and finger nails and I think we were told that they did belong to thier deceas'd friends. The men when they are dress'd generaly wear two or three long white feathers stuck upright in their hair and at Queen Charlottes sound many both men and women wore round Caps made of black feathers.t [281 The old men are much respected by the younger who seem to be governed and dere[c]ted by them on most occasions. We at first thought that they were united under one head or chief whose name is <1Teeratu.>1s We first heard of him in Poverty Bay and he was own'd as Chief by every one we met with from <1Cape kidnappers>1 to the North- ward and westward as far as the <1Bay of Plenty>1 which is a great extent of territory for an Indian prence: when we were upon the East coast they always pointed inland to the westward for the place of his residence which I beleive to be in the Bay of Plenty, and that those Hippas or fortified towns are barrier townss either for or against him but most likely the former, and if so may be the utmost extent of his dominions to the westward; for at Mercury Bay they did not own him as their prince nor no where else either to the westrd or South- ward or any other single person, for at whatever place we put in at or whatever people we spoke with upon the Coast they generaly told us that those that were at a little distance from them were their enimies; from which it appear'd to me that they were very much divided into parties which make war one with another, and all their actions and beheavour towards us tended to prove that they are a brave open warlike people and voide of treachery. When ever we were Viseted by any number of them that had never heard or seen any thing of us before they generaly came offin the largest Canoes they had, some of which will carry 60, 80 or 100 people, they always brought their best closes along with them which they put on as soon as they came near the Ship. In each Canoe were generaly an Old man, in some two or three, these use'd always to dire[c]t the others, were better Clothed and generaly carried a halbards or battle ax in their hands or some such like thing that distinguished them from the others. As soon as they came within about a stones throw of the Ship they would there lay and call out <1Haromai hareuta a patoo age>1,s that is come here, come a shore with us and we will kill you with our patoo patoo's, and at the same time would shake them at us, at times they would dance the war dance, and other times they would trade with and talk to us and answer such questons as were put to them with all the Calmness emaginable and then again begin the war dance, shaking their paddles patoo patoo's &ca and make strange contorsions at the same time, and as soon as they had worked themselves up to a proper pitch they would begin 282] to attack us with stones and darts and oblige us whether we would or no to fire upon them. Musquetary they never regarded unless they felt the effect but great guns they did because these threw stones farther than they could comprehend. After they found that our Arms were so much Superior to theirs and that we took no advantage of that superiority and a little time given them to reflect upon it they ever after were our very good friends and we never had an Instance of their attempting to surprize or cut off any of our people when they were ashore, oppertunities for so doing they must have had at one time or a nother. It is hard to account for what we have every w[h]ere been told of their eating their enimies kill'd in battle which they most certainly do, circumstance enough we have seen to convince of the truth of this. Tupia who holds this custom in great aversion hath very often argued with them against it but they always as strenuously supported it and never would own that it was wrong. It is reasonable to suppose that men with whome this Custom is found seldom or never give quarters to those they overcome in battle and if so they must fight desperatly to the very last. A strong proff of this supposision we had from the people of Queen Charlottes Sound who told uss but a few days before we arrived that they had kill'd and eat a whole boats crew; surely a single boats crew or at least a part of them when they found themselves beset and over powerd by number would have surrender'd themselves prisioners was such a thing practised among them. The heads of these unfortunate people they preserved as trophies; four or five of them they brought off to shew to us, one of which Mr Banks bought or rather forced them to sell for they parted with it with the utmost reluctancy and afterwards would not so much as let us see one more for anything we could offer them. In the article of food these people have no great variety. Firn roots, Dogs, Fish and wild foul is their chief diet, for Cocos, Yamms and sweet Potatoes is not cultivated every w[h]ere. They dress their victuals in the same manner as the people in the South Sea Islands, that is dogs and large fish they bake in a hole in the ground and small fish, birds shell fish &c they broil on the fire. Firn roots they likewise heat over the fire than beat them out flat over a stone with a wooden Mallet, after this they are fit for eating in the doing of which they suck out the moist and glutinous part and spit out the fibrous parts; these firns are much alike if not the same as the [283 Mountain ferns in England.s They catch fish with Saines, hooks and lines but more commonly with hooped netts very ingeniously made, in the middle of these they tie the bait such as sea ears,s fish gutts &ca than sink the nett to the bottom with a stone. After it lays there a little time they haul it gently up and hardly ever without fish and very often a large quantity. All their netts are made of the broad grass plant before mentiond generaly with no other preparation than by spliting the blade of the plant into threeds. There fishing hooks are made of crooked peices of wood, bones and shells. The People shew great ingenuity and good workmanship in the building and framing their Boats or Canoes; the(y] are long and narrow and shaped very much like a New England Whale boat. Their large Canoes are I beleive built wholy for war and will carry from 40 to 8o or 100 men with their arms &ca. I shall give the demensions of one which I measured that lay a shore at <1Tolaga.>1 Length 681/2 feet, breadth 5 feet and depth 31/2 feet. The bottom sharp inclining to a wedge and was made of three pieces hollow'd out to about 2 inches or an inch and a half thick and well fasten'd together with strong plating; each side consisted of one plank only which was 63 feet long and 1o or 12 Inches broad and about an inch and a quarter thick and these were well fited and lash'd to the bottom part; there were a number of Thwarts laid across and lashed to each gunel as a strengthening to the boat. The head orament projected the or 6s feet without the body of the Boat and was 41/2d feet high; the stern orament was 14 feet high, about 2 feet broad and about ans 11/2 Inch thick, it was fix'd upon the Stern of the Canoe like the Stern post of a Ship upon her keel. The oraments of both head and stern and the two side boards were of carved work and in my opinion neither ill designd nor executed. All their Canoes are built after this plan and few are less than 20 feet long--some of the small ones we have seen with out-riggerss but this is not common. In their war Canoes they generaly have a quantity of birds feathers hung in strings and tied about the head and stern as an additional orament. They are as various in the heads of their canoes as we are in those of 284] our shipping but what is most common is an od design'd figure of a man with as ugly a face as can be conceved, a very large tongue sticking out of his mouth and large white eys made of the Shells of sea ears.s There paddle[s] are small light and neatly made, they hardly ever make use of sails at least that we saw and those they have are but ill contrived being generaly a peice of netting spread between two poles which serve for both masts and yards. The houses of these people are better calculated for a cold than a hot climate: they are built low and in form of an oblong square, the framing is of wood or small sticks and the sides and covering of thatch made of long grass. The door is generaly at one end and no biger than to admits a man to creep in and out;just within the dooris the fire place and over the door or on one side is a small hole to let out the smook. These houses are 2o or 3o feet long, others not above half as long; this depends upon the largness of the Family they are to contain for I believe few families are without such a house as these, altho they do not a[l]ways live in them especialy in the summer season when many of them live disperse'd up and down in little temporary hutts that are not sufficient to shelter them from the weather. The tools with which they work in building their Canoes houses &ca are adzes or axes some made of a hard black stone,s and others of green Talk;s they have chisels made of the same but these are more commonly made of human bones.s In working small work and carving I believe they use mostly peices of Jaspers breaking small peices from a large lump they have for that purpose. As soon as the small peice is blunted they throw it a way and take another. To till or turn up the ground they have wooden spades (if I may so call them) made like stout pickets with a peice of wood tyed aCross near the lower end to put the foot upon to force them into the ground.s There green talk axes that are whole and good they set much value upon and never wold part with them for any thing we could offer. I offer'd one day for one, one of the best axes I had in the Ship besides a number of [285 other things but nothing would induce the owner to part with it: from this I infer'd that good ones were scarce among them.s Diversions and Musical Instruments they have but few, the latter consists of two or three sorts of Trumpets and a small Pipe or Whistle,s and the former in Singing and Danceing, their songs are harmonious enough but very dolefull to a European Ear. In most of their dances they appear like Mad men, jumping and stamping with their feet, makeing strange contorsions with every part of the body and a hideous noise at the same time, and if they happen to be in their Canoes they flourish with great Agility their Paddles a Pattoo's various ways, in the doing of which if there are ever so many boats and People they all keep time and motion together to a surpriseing degree. It was in this manner that they work themselves to a proper pitch of Courage before they use'd to attack us and it was only from their after-behavour that we could tell whether they were in jest or earnest when they gave us these EHeivu'ss as they call them, of their own accord especialy at our first coming into place. Their signs of friendship is the waving the hand or a peice of Cloth &ca. We were never able to learn with any degree of certainty in what manner they bury their dead, we were generaly told that they put them in the ground, if so it must be in some secrete or by place for we never saw the least signs of a burying place in the whole Country.s 286] Their Custom of Mourning for a friend or a relation is by cuting and scarifying their bodies particularly their Arms and breasts in such a Manner that the scars remain indelible and I beleive have some signification such as to shew how near related the deceas'd was to them. With respect to Religion I beleive these People trouble themselves very little about it. They however beleive that their is one Supream God whome they call s and likewise a number of other inferior Deities, but whether or no they Worship or Pray to either one or the other we know not with any degree of certainty. It is reasonable to suppose that they do and I beleive it, yet I never saw the least action or thing a mong them that tended to prove it.s They have the same notions of the Creation of the World Mankind &ca as the People of the South Sea Islands have, indeed many of there Notions and Customs are the very same, but nothing is so great a proff of they all having had one Source as their Language which differs but in a very few words the one from the other, as will appear from the following specimen, which I had from Mr Banks who under- stands their Language as well or better than any one on board. <1English>1 <1New Zeland>1 <1South-sea Islands>1 A Chief Eareete Earee A Man Taata Taata A Woman Ivahino Ivahine The Head Eupo Eupo Hair Macauwe Ear Terringa Terrea Fore head Erai Erai Eyes Matu Matu Cheeks Paparinga Paparea Nose Ahewh Ahew Mouth Hangoutou Outou [287 <1English>1 <1New Zeland>1 <1South-sea Islands>1 Chin Ecouwai Teeth Hennihu Nihio Arm Haringaringu Rema Finger Maticara Maneow Belly Ateraboo Oboo Naval Apeto Peto Come here Haromai Harromai Fish Heica Eyca A Lobster Kooura Tooura Coccos Tara Taro Sweet Potatoes Cumala Cumala Yamms Tuphwhe Tuphwhe Birds Mannu Mannu The Wind Mehow Mattai A Thief Amootoo Teto To Examine Mataketake Mataitai To Sing Eheiva Heiva Bad Keno Eno Trees Oratou Eraou Grand Father Toubouna Toubouna No Kaoura Oure Number 1 Tahai Tahai 2 Rua Rua 3 Torou Torou 4 Ha Heo 5 Rema Rema 6 Ono Ono 7 Etu Hetu 8 Wharou Wharou 9 Toa Hya 10 Angahourou Ahourou What do you call Owy Terra Owy Terras this or that 288] There are some small difference in the Language spoke by the <1Aehei-no mouweans>1 and those of <1Tovy poe nammu>1 but this difference seem'd to me to be only in the pronunciation and is no more than what we find between one part of England and another: what is here inserted as a specemen is that spoke by the People of <1Ae hei no mouwe.>1 What is meant by the South Sea Islands are those Islands we our selves touch'd at, but I gave it that title because we have a[l]ways been told that the same Language is Universally spoke by all the Islanders and this is a sufficient proff that both they and the New Zelanders have had one Origin or Source but where this is, even time perhaps may never discover. It certainly is neither to the Southward nor Eastward for I cannot preswaid my self that ever they came from Americas and as to a Southern Continent I do not beleive any such thing exists unless in a high Latitude, but as the Contrary oppinion hath for many years prevaild and may yet prevail it is necessary I should say some thing in support of mine more than what will be dire[c]tly point out by the track of this Ship in those seas; for from that alone it will evidently appear that there is a large space of Sea extending quite to the Tropick in which we were not or any other before us that we can avers for certain. In our rout to the northward after doubling Cape Horn when in the Latitude of 40o we were in the Longitude of 110o, and in our return to the Southward after leaving Ulietea when in the same Latitude we were in the Longitude of 145s the difference in this Latitude is 35o.s In the Latitude of 30o the difference of the two tracks is 21o and that difference continues as low as 20o but a view ofthe Chart will best illusterate this. Here is now room enough for the North Cape of the Southern Continent to extend to the Northward even to a pretty low Latitude. But what foundation have we for such a Supposision, none that I know of but this that it must be either here or no where. Geographers have indeed laid down part of <1Quiros's>1 discoveries in this Longitude and have told us that he had theirs signs of a Continent a part of which they have actually laid down in their Maps but by what authority I know not. <1Quiros>1 in the Latitude of 25o or 26o S discover'd Two Islands which I Suppose may lay between the [289 Longitudes of 130o and 140o West. <1Dalrymple>1 lays them down in 146o W and says that Quiros saw to the Southward very large hanging clowds and a very thick horizon, with other known signs of a Continent: other accounts of the Voyage says not a word about this but supposing it to be true, hanging Clowds and a thick horizon are certainly no known Signs of a Continent, I have had ma[n]y proofs to the contrary in the Course of this Voyage, neither do I beleive that Quiros himself looked upon such things as known signs of land, for if he had he certainly would have stood to the Southward in order to have satisfied himself before he had gone to the northward for no man seems to have had discoveries more at heart than he had;s besides this was the ultimate object ofhis Voyage. If Quiros was in the Latitude of 26o and Longitude 146o west than I am certain that no part of the Southern continent can no where extend so far to the Northward as the above mentioned Latitude. But the Voyage which seems to thrust it farthest back in the Longitude I am speaking of viz. betwixt 130o and 150o West, is that of <1Admiral Roggeween>1s a Dutch man made in 1722, who after leaving <1Juan Fernandes>1 went in search of <1Davis's Island,>1 but not finding it he ran 12o More to the West and in the Latitude of 281/2o discover'd <1Laster Island.>1 Dalrymple and some others have laid it down in 27o S & 106o 30' West and supposes it to be the same as <1Davis's Isle>1 which I think cannot be from the circum- stance of the Voyage. On the other hand <1M. Pingre>1 in his Treatise concerning the Transit of Venuss gives an extract of Roggeween's Voyage and a Map of the <1South Seas,>1 where in he place[s] <1Easter>1 <1Island>1 in the Latitude of 281/2o s and in the Longitude of 123o West. His reasons for so doing may be seen at large in the said treatise, he like wise lays down <1Roggeween's>1 rout thro' these Seas very different from any other author I have seen, for after leaving <1Easter Island>1 he makes him to steer sw to the height of 34o South and afterwards wNw. If <1Roggeween>1 realy took this rout than it is not probable that there is any main land to the Northward of 35o South. However Mr Dalrymple and some Geographers have laid down <1Roggeween's>1 track very different from <1M. Pingre.>1 From <1Easter Isle>1 they have laid down his track to the Nw and afterwards very little different from that of <1Le>1 <1Maire,>1 and this I think is not probable that a Man who at his own request was sent to discover the Southern Continent should take the 290] same rout thro' these Seas as others had done before who had the same thing in View, bys so doing he must be morally certain of not finding what he was in search of and of course must fail as they had done. Be this as it may it is a point that cannot be clear'd up from the published accounts of the Voyage which so far from takeing proper Notice of their Longitude have not even mentioned the Latitude of several of the Islands they discover'd so that I find it impossible to lay down <1Roggeween's>1 rout with the least degree of accuracy. But to return to our own Voyage which must be allow'd to have set a side the most if not all the arguments and proofs that have been advance'd by different Authors to prove that there must be a Southern Continent, I mean to the northward of 40o S for what may lay to the Southward of that Latitude I know not. Certain it is that we saw no visible signs of land, according to my opinion, neither in our rout to the Northward, Southward or Westward untill a few days before we made the east Coast of <1New-Zeland.>1 It is true we have often seen large flocks of Birds but they were generaly such as are always seen at a very great distance from land, we likewise saw frequintly peices of Sea or rock weed, but how is one to know how far this may drive to Sea. I am told and that from undoubted Authority that there is yearly thrown up upon the Coast of Irelands a sort of Beans call'd Ox Eyss which are known to grow no where but in the West Indias and yet these two places are not less than [11 or 1200]s Leagues asunder; was such things found floating upon the water in the South Seas one would hardly be perswaided that one was even out of sight of land so apt are we to catch at every thing that may in the least point out to us the favourat object we are in persute of and yet experience shews that we may be as far from it as ever. Thus I have given my Opinion freely and without prejudicy not with any view to discourage any future attempts being made towards discovering the <1Southern Continent,>1 on the Contrary, as this Voyage will evidently make it appears that there is left but a small space to the Northward of 40o where the grand Object can lay, I think it would be a great pitty that this thing which at times has been the object of many ages and Nations should not now be wholy clear'd up, which might very easily be done in one Voyage without either much trouble or danger or fear of misscarrying as the Navigator would know where [291 to go to look for it; but if after all no Continent was to be found than he might turn his thoughts towards the discovery of those multitude of Islands which we are told lay within the Tropical Regions to the South of the line, and this we have from very good Authority as I have before hinted. This he will always have in his Power, for unless he be directed to search for the Southern lands in a high Latitude he will not, as we were, be obliged to go farther to the westward in the Latitude of 40o than 140o or 145s West and therefore will always have it in his power to go to Georges Island where he will be sure of meeting with refreshments to rec[r]ute his people before he sets out upon the discovery of the Islands. But, should it be thought proper to send a ship out upon this service while <1Tupia>1 lieves and he to come out in her, in that case she would have a prodigious advantage over every ship that have been upon discoveries in those seas before; for by means of Tupia, supposeing he did not accompany you himself, you would always get people to direct you from Island to Island and would be sure of meeting with a friendly reseption and refreshments at every Island you came to; this would inable the Navigator to make his discoveries the more perfect and compleat, at least it would give him time so to do for he would not be obliged to hurry through those seas from an apprehinsions of wanting provisions. I shall now add a list of those Islands which Tupia and several others have given us an account of and endeavour to point out the respective situations from <1Otaheite>1 or <1Georges Island,>1 but this with respect to many of them cannot be depended upon. Those mark'd this (++) Tupia himself has been at as he tells us and we have no reason to doubt his veracity in this, by which it will appear that his Geographical knowlidge of those Seas is pretty extensive and yet I must observe that before he came with us he hardly [had] an Idea of any land being larger then <1Otaheite.>1 <1Names of the Islands Bearing from Otaheite>1 <1NE Quarter>1 Oopate Ooura Teoheow Between the North and NNE Oryroa Ohevapato Otaah Ohevaroa Temanno NNE to NEBN Ootta 292] <1Names of the Islands Bearing from Otoheite>1 <1NE Quarter>1 Whareva Whaterreero Tetioo NE Tetineohva Terouwhah Whaoa Whaterretaah NNE Whaneanea Ohevatoutuai EBN <1SE Quarter>1 Moutou Toometoaroaro Tennowhammeatane South to SE Ohetetamaruire Ouropoe ++Mytea or Oznaburg Isd Ohevanue ESE and East Ohirotah <1SW Quarter>1 ++Imao or York Island ++Tapooamanue or Saunders Isd WBS and WSW ++Manua Honue ++Oheteroa Onawhaa Otootooera between the South and SW Opooroo Ooouow Teorooromatiwhatea Teatawhite Oheavie Pooromathehea Tiamoorohete Between the SW and WSW Ohetetaeteare Ohetetaeteare Ohetetareva Ohetetoutoumi Mooenatayo Tetupatunaeohew West Oheteteutenatu Ohetepoto 294] Tupia's own hands,s he at one time gave us an Account of near 130 Islands but in his Chart he laid down only 74 and this is about the Number that some others of the Natives of Otaheite gave us an account of, but the Accounts taken by and from different people differ sencibly one from another both in names and Number. The first is owing to the want of rightly knowing how to pronounce the names of the Islands after them, but be this as it may it is very certain that their are these Number of Islands and very probably a great many more laying some where in the great South Sea, the greatest part ofwhich have never been seen by any Europeans. [APRIL 1770] SUNDAY 1<1st.>1 In the PM had a Moderate breeze at East which in the night Veer'd to the NE and was attended with hazey rainy weather. I have before made mention of our quiting <1New-Zeland>1 with an intention to steer to the westward which we accordingly did takeing our departure from <1Cape Fare-well>1 in the Latitude of 40o 30' s and Longitude 185o58' W from Greenwich, which bore from us at 5 PM West 18o north distance 12 Miles.s After this we steer'd NW and WNW [295 in order to give it a good birth untill 8 oClock am at which time we steer'd West having the advantage of a fresh gale at NBE. At Noon our Latitude by account was 40o 12' s. Longitude made from Cape Fare-well 1 o 11' West. MONDAY 2<1d>1. In the PM had a Moderate gale at North with thick hazy weather attended with rain. At 8 oClock it fell little wind and veer'd to wsw at which time we tack'd. At midnight the wind came to SSW and increased to a brisk gale with fair Clowdy weather which we made the most of as soon as it was day light. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 40o 0' and Longde made from Cape Farewell 2o 31' West. TUESDAY 3<1rd.>1 Clowdy weather Winds at SW and SSW a fresh gale with which we made our Course good NwBw and distance run from yesterday at Noon to this day at noon, 381/2 Leagues. Latitude in by observation 38o 56' s. Longitude made from Cape Fare-well 4o 36' West. s WEDNESDAY 4<1th.>1 Had a stead[y] brisk gale at ssw with some flying showers of rain and a large hollow sea from the Southward. In the PM unbent the Main Topsail to repair, brought a nother to the yard and set it close reef'd. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 37o 55' S. Course and distance saild sence yesterday at Noon N 60o West 122 Miles. Longitude made from C. Fare-well 6o54' West. THURSDAY 5<1th.>1 Fresh gales at South which in the AM Veer'd to SEBS. At noon our Latitude by observation was 37o 23' s. Longitude made from Cape Fare-well 9o 10' West. Course and distance saild sence yester noon N 73o 15' W 37 Leagues. FRIDAY 6<1th>1. Winds between the SBE and SE with a Continued swell from the SSW. A[t] noon Latitude in by observation 37o 18' S. Course and distance saild sence yesterday at Noon N 85o West 58 Miles. Longde made from Cape Fare well 10o 35' West. SATURDAY 7<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at NE which in the AM Veer'd to Nw. In the PM found the Variation by the mean of several Azths to be 13o 50' East being than in the Latitude of 37o 23' s and Longitude 196o 44' West. In the AM Punish'd Jno Bowless Marine with twelve lashes for refusing to do his duty when orderd both by the Boatswains mate and sergt of Marines. At Noon Latde pr Obsn 37o 35' s. Longde 296] made from Cape Fare-well 11 o34' w. Course and distance run sence yesterday noon S 70o15' W 50 Miles. SUNDAY 8<1th.>1 Gentle breezes from the NW and North. In the PM found the Variation to be 13o 56' East. At Noon Latitude in pr Observation 38o 0' S. Longitude made from C. Fare-well 13o 2' West. Course and distance saild sence yesterday Noon S 70o 15' West, 74 Miles. MONDAY 9<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at Nw pleasent weather and a smooth sea. In the AM saw a Tropick bird which I believe is uncommon in such high latitudes. At noon Latde observed 38o 29' S. Longitude made from Cape Fare-well 14o 45' W. Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon S 70o 15' West, 86 Miles.s TUESDAY 10<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at NWBN and clear Settled weather- In the AM found the variation by the Ampd to be 11o 25' E and by Azth 11o 20'. At Noon the Observ'd Latitude was 38o 51' s and Longi- tude made from Cape Fare-well 16o45'. Longitude in 202o 43' West. Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon s 76o 45' West, 96 Miles. WEDNESDAY 11<1th.>1 Gentle breezes from the NW and pleasent weather with some few showers of rain. In the AM found the Variation to be 13o 48' E, which is 21/2 degrees more than it was yesterday altho I should expected to have found it less for the observations were equaly good. At Noon Latitude in 39o7' S. Longde made from Cape Farewell 17o 23' and Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon s 62o W, 34 Miles. THURSDAY 12<1th>1. Calm with now and than light airs from the NE and NW clowdy weather but remarkably warm and so it hath been for some days past. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 39o 11' and Longde from Cape Farewell 17o 35' W. Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon s 66o w, 10 Miles. FRIDAY 13<1th.>1 Light airs next to a Calm with Clear pleasent weather what little wind we had was from the NW quarter. In the Course of this day found the Variation to be 12o 27' East being at Noon by observation in the Latitude of 39o 23' and Longitude 204o 2' W. Course and distance sence yesterday noon s 62o West, 26 Miles and Longitude made from Cape Farewell 18o4' W. SATURDAY 14<1th.>1 Calm serene weather with sometimes light airs from the northward. At sun set found the Variation to be 11o28' East [297 and in the morning to be 11o 30' E. The Spritsail topsail be[ing] wore to rags it was condem'd as no longer fit for its proper use and takens to repair the two topgallant sails they being of themselves so bad as not to be worth the expence of new Canvas but with the help of this sail may be made to last some time longer.s At Noon Latitude in 39o 25' S. Longitude made from Cape Farewell 18o 21' W. Course and distance sence yesterday noon s 81 o w, 13 Miles. SUNDAY 15<1th.>1 In the PM had light airs at North which in the AM increased to a fresh gale with which we made the best of our way to the westward and by noon had run sence yesterday upon a s 86o15' West Course 79 Miles. Latde in by Observation 39o 3o' s and Longi- tude made from Cape Fare-well 20o 2' West. Some flying fish seen to day. MONDAY 16<1th>1. Fresh gales at NNW with Clowdy hazey weather. In the PM saw an Egg Bird and yesterday a Gannet was seen, these are birds that we reckon never to go far from land. We kept the lead going all night but found no soundings with a line of 100 and 130 fathoms. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 39o 45' s and had made 22o 2' of Longitudes from Cape Farewell, Course and distance Saild sence yesterday at Noon s 82o West 108 Miles. TUESDAY 17<1th.>1 At 2 PM the wind came to WSW at which time we tack'd and stood to the Nw, before 5 oClock we wass obliged to close reef our topsails having a strong gale with very heavy squals.s About this time a small land bird was seen to pearch upon the riging, we sounded but had no ground with 120 fathoms of line. At 8 oClock we wore and stood to the Southward untill 12 at night than wore and stood to the Nw untill 4 am when we again stood to the Southd haveing a fresh gale at wsw attend[ed] with squals and dark hazey unsettled weather untill 9 oClock, at which time it fell little wind and the weather soon after clear'd up, which a little after a 11 gave 298] us an oppertunity of takeing several observations of the Sun and Moon the mean result of which gave 207o 56' West Longitude from the Meridion of Greenwich. From these observations the Longitude of the Ship at Noon was 207o 58' and by the Log 208o 20' the difference being only 22' and this error may as well lay in the one as the other. Our Latitude at noon was 39o36' S and Longde made from Cape Farewell 22o 22' W. WEDNESDAY 18<1th>1. Winds southerly a hard gale with heavy squals attended with showers of rain and a great sea from the same quarter. At 3 PM Close reef'd the Topsails, handed the Main & Mizn topsail & got down top gallant yards. At 6 oClock the gale increased to such a height as to Oblige us to take in the Fore topsail and Main sail and to run under the Fore sail and Mizen all night sounding every 2 hours but found no ground with 12o fathoms. At 6 am set the Main- sail and soon after the fore topsail and before noon the Main-topsail both close reef'd. At Noon our Latitude by Obsern was 38o 45' S. Longitude from Cape Fare-well 23o 43' W and Course and distance run sence yesterday noon N 51o West 82 Miles. Last night we saw a Port Egmont Hen and this morning two more, a Pintado bird several Albetrosses and black sheer-waters.s The first of these birds are certain signs of the nearness of land, indeed we cannot be far from it for by our Longitude we are a degree to the westward of the East side of Vandieman Land according to <1Tasmans>1 the first discoverers Longitude of it, who could not err much in so short a run as from this land to Newzeland and by our Latitude we could not be above 5o or 55 Leagues to the northward of the place where he took his departure from. THURSDAY 19<1th.>1 In the PM had fresh gales at ssw and Clowdy Squaly weather with a large Southerly Sea. At 6 took in the Topsails and at 1 am brought too and sounded but had no ground with 13o fathoms of line. At 5 Set the Topsails Close reef'd and at 6 saw land extending from NE to West at the distance of 5 or 6 Leagues having 80 fathom water a fine sandy bottom. We continued Standing to the westward with the wind at ssw untill 8 oClock at which time we got topgt yards aCross, made all sail and bore away along shore NE for the Eastermost land we had in sight, being at this time in the Latitude of 37o 58' s and Longd of 210o 39' West. The Southermost Point of land we had in sight which bore from us W1/4S I judged to lay in the Latitude of 38o 0' s and in the Longitude of 211o 07' W from the [299 Meridion of Greenwich. I have Named it <1Point Hicks,>1 because Leuitt Hicks was the first who discover'd this land.s To the Southward of this point we could see no land and yet it was very clear in that quarter and by our Longitude compared with that of Tasmans the body of Vandiemens land ought to have bore due south from us and from the soon falling of the Sea after the wind abated I had reason to think it did, but as we did not see it and find- ing this coast to trend NE and sw or rather more to the westward makes me doubtfull whether they are one land or no:s however every one who compares this journal with that of Tasmans will be as good ajudge [as] I am, but it is necessary to observe that I do not take the situation of Vandiemens from the prented Charts but from the ex- tract of Tasmens <1Journal>1 published by <1Dirk Rembrantse.>1s At Noon we were in the Latde of 37o50' and Longd of 21oo29' w, the extremes of the land extending from NW to ENE a remarkable Point bore N 20o East distant 4 Leagues. This point rises to a round hillick, very much like the <1Ram head>1 going into Plymouth Sound on which account I called it by the same name. Latd 37o 39', Longitude 210o 22 W. The Variation by an Azimuth taken this morning was 8o7' East. What we have as yet seen of this land appears rather low and not very hilly, the face of the Country green and woody but the sea shore is all a white sand. FRIDAY 20<1th>1. In the PM and most part of the night had a fresh gale westerly with squals attended with showers of rain. In the AM had the wind at sw with serene weather. At 1 pm saw three water spouts at once, two were between us and the shore and one at some distance upon our Larboard quarter. At 6 oClock shortend sail and brought too for the night having 56 fathom water a fine sandy bottom, the 300] Northermost land in sight bore NBE1/2E and a small Islands lying close to a point on the Main bore west distant 2 Leagues. This point I have named <1Cape Howe,>1sit may be known by the Trending of the Coast which is north on the one side and sw on the other (Latitude 37o 28' S, Longde 210o 3' West) it may likewise be known by some round hills upon the Main just within it. Having brought too with her head off shore we at 10 oClock wore and lay her head in untill 4 am at which time we made sail along Shore to the northward. At 6 oClock the northermost land in sight bore Norths being at this time about 4 Leagues from the land. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 36o51' S and Longitude of 209o 53' West and 3 Leagues from ye land. Courses saild along shore sence yesterday at noon was first N 52o East 30 Miles than NBE and NBw 41 Miles. The weather being clear gave us an oppertunity to View the Country which had a very agreeable and promising Aspect, the land is of a moderate heights diversified with hills, ridges, planes and Vallies with some few small lawns, but for the most part the whole was cover'd with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope, they are not high neither are there many offthem.s SATURDAY 21<1st.>1 Winds Southerly a gentle breeze and clear weather with which we coasted along shore to the northward. In the PM we saw the smook of fire in several places a certain sign that the Country is inhabited. At 6 oClock being about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land we shortend sail and sounded and found 44 fathom water a sandy bottom; stood on under an easy sail untill 12 oClock at which time we brought too untill 4 AM when we made sail again, having than 90 fathom water 5 Leagues from the land. At 6 oClock we were a breast of a pretty high mountain laying near the shore which on account of its figure I named <1Mount Dromedary.>1 (Latde 36o18' S, Longde 209o55' W). The shore under the foot of this Mountain forms a point which I have named <1Cape Dromedary>1 over which is a peaked hillick. At this time found the Variation to be 10o42' E. Between 10 and a 11 oClock Mr Green and I took several observations of the Sun and Moon the mean result of which gave 209o 17' West Longitude from the Meridion of Greenwich. By observations made yesterday we were in the Longi- [301 tude 210o 9':-20' gives 209o 49' the Longitude of the Ship to day at noon per yesterdays observations, the mean of which and to days gives 209o 33' w, by which I fix the Longitude of this Coast. Our Latitude at Noon was 35o 49' s. Cape Dromedary bore s 30o W, distt 12 Leagues. An open Bay wherein lay three or 4 small Islands bore NWBW distant 5 or 6 Leagues, this Bay seem'd to be but very little shelterd from the sea winds and yet it is the only likely anchoring place I have yet seen upon the Coast.s SUNDAY 22<1nd>1. In the PM had a gentle breeze at sBw with which we steerd a long shore NBE and NNE at the distance of about 3 Leagues, saw the smook of fire in several places near the Sea beach. At 5 oClock we were abreast of a Point of land which on account of its perpendicular clifts I call'd <1Point Upright>1 (Latde 35o 35')s it bore from us due west distant 2 Leagues and in this situation had 31 fm water a Sandy bottom. At 6 oClock falling little wind we hauld off ENE' at this time the Northermost land in sight bore NNE1/2E. At Midnight being in 70 fathom water we brougt too untill 4 AM at which time we made sail in for the land and at day light found our selves nearly in the same place we were at 5 oClock in the evening, by which it was apparent that we had been drove about 3 Leagues to the Southward by a Tide or Current in the night, after this we steerd along shore NNE having a gentle breeze at sw and were so near the Shore as to distinguish several people upon the Sea beach. They appear'd to be of a very dark or black Colour but whether this was the real colour of their skins or the C[l]othes they might have on I know not. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 35o 27' and Longde 209o 23'. Cape Dromedary bore s 28o West distt 19s Leags. A remark- able peaked hill laying inland the top of which look'd like a <1Pigeon>1 <1house>1 and occasioned my giving it that name, bore N 32o 30 W and a small low Islands laying close under the shore bore Nw distt 2 or 3 Leagues. Variation of the Compass 9o 50' E. When we first discover'd this Island in the morning I was in hopes from its appearence that we should have found shelter for the Ship behind it but when we came to approach it near I did not think that there was even security for a boat to land, but this I believe I should have attempted had not the wind come on shore, after which I did not think it safe to send a boat from the ship as we had a large hollow sea from ye SE rowling in upon 302] the land which beat every w[h]ere very high upon the Shore and this we have had ever sence we came upon the Coast. The land near the Sea coast still continues of a moderate height forming alternatly rocky points and Sandy beaches, but inland between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon house are several pretty high Mountains, two only of which we saw but what were coverd with trees and these lay inland behind the Pigeon house and are remarkably flat atop with steep rocky clifts all round them as far as we could see.s The trees in this Country hath all the appearence of being stout and lofty. For these two days past the observe'd Latitude has been 12 or 14 Miles to the Southward of the Ships account given by the Log which can be owing to nothing but a Curre[n]t seting to the Southward. MONDAY 23<1rd>1. In the PM had a gentle breeze at East which in the night Veer'd to NE and North. At 1/2 past 4 PM being [a]bout 5 Miles from the land we tackd and stood offsE and East untill 4 AM at which time we tackd and stood in, being than about 9 or 10 Leagues from the land, At 8 oClock it fell little wind and soon after Calm. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 35o 38' and about Six Leagues from the land, Mount Dromedary bearing S 37o west distt 17 Leagues and the Pigeon house N 40o west, in this situation had 74 fathom water. TUESDAY 24<1th>1. In the PM had variable Light airs and calms untill 6 oClock at which time a breeze sprung up at NBW. At this time we had 7o fathom water being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the land, the Pigeon house bearing N 40s West, Mount Dromedary s 30o West and the northermost land in sight N 19o East. Stood to the NE untill noon haveing a gentle breeze at Nw at which time we tack'd and stood to the westward being than by obsern in the Latde of 35o 10' S and Longde 208o 51' W.s A point of land which I named <1Cape St George>1 we having discover'd it on that Saints day, bore West distant 19 Miles and the Pigeon house s 75o West, the Latitude and Longitude of which I found to be 35o 19 S and 209o 42' West. In the morning we found the Variation to be by the Ampde 7o 50 East and by several Azimuths 7o 54' East. WEDNESDAY 25<1th>1. In the PM had a fresh breeze at NW untill 3 oClock at which time it came to west and we tack'd and stood to the North- ward. At 5 oClock being about 5 or 6 Leags from the land, the [303 Pigeon house bearing wsw distant 9 Leagues, Sounded and had 86 fathom water. At 8 oClock being very Squaly with lightning we Close reef'd the topsails and brought too being then in 120 fathom water. At 3 AM we made sail again to the northward having the advantage of a fresh gale at sw. At Noon we were about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the Latde of 34o 22' and Longitude 208o 36' West. Course and distance Saild sence yesterday noon is NBE 49 Miles. In the Course of this days run we saw the smook of fire in severl places near the sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the northward of Cape St George the Shore seems to form a bay which appeard to be shelterd from the NE winds but as we had the wind it was not in my power to look into it and the appearence was not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it.s The north point of this bay on account of its figure I named <1Long Nose,>1 Latitude 35o 4' S.s 8 Leagues to the northward of this is a point which I calld <1Red point,>1 some part of the land about it appeared of that colour (Latitude 34o 29' Longde 208o 49')s a little way in land to the Nw of this point is a round hill the top of which look'd like the Crown of a hatt. THURSDAY 26<1th>1. Clear Serene weather. In the PM had a light breeze at NNW untill 5 oClock at which time it fell calm we being then about 3 or 4 Leags from the land and in 48 fathom water. Variation ps Azimuth 8.48 East, the extremes of the land from NEBN to swBs. Saw several smooks along shore before dark and two or 3 times a fire in the night. We lay becalm'd driving in before the Sea untill 1 oClock AM at which time we got a breeze from the land with which we steerd NE being then in 38 fathom water. At Noon it fell little wind and Veerd to NEBN, we being than in the Latitude of 34o 10' and Longitude 208o 27' W and about 5 Leags from the land which extended from s 37o W to N1/2E. In this Latitude are some white clifts which rise perpendicularly from the sea to a moderate height.s FRIDAY 27<1th>1. Variable light airs between the NE and NW and clear pleasent weather. In the PM stood off shore untill 2 oClock than tack'd and stood in untill 6 at which time we tack'd and stood off being than in 54 fathoms water and about 4 or 5 Miles from the land, the extremes of which bore from S 28o West to N 25o 30' East. At 12 oClock we tackd and stood in untill 4 AM than made a trip offuntill day light, after which we stood in for the land; in all this time we lost ground owing a good deal to the Variableness of the winds, for at 304] Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 34o 21', Red Point bearing S 27 W distant 3 Leagues. In this situation we were about 4 or 5 Miles from the land which extended from S 19o 30' West to North 29o East. SATURDAY 28<1th>1. In the PM hoisted out the Pinnace and yawl in order to attempt a landing but the Pinnace took in the water so fast that she was obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leakes. At this time we saw several people a Shore four of whome were carrying a small boat or Canoe which we imagined they were going to put into the water in order to come off to us but in this we were mistaken. Being now not above two Miles from the Shore Mr Banks Dr Solander Tupia and my self put offin the yawl and pull'd in for the land to a place where we saw four or five of the natives who took to the woods as we approachd the Shore, which disapointed us in the expectation we had of geting a near view of them if not to speak to them; but our disapointment was heighten'd when we found that we no where could effect a landing by reason of the great surff which beat every where upon the shore.s We saw hauld up upon the beach 3 or 4 small Canoes which to us appear'd not much unlike the small ones of New Zeland, in the woods were several trees of the Palm kinds and no under wood and this was all we were able to observe from the boat after which we returnd to the Ship about 5 in the evening. At this time it fell calm and we were not above a mile and a half from shore in a 11 fathom water and within some breakers that lay to the south- ward of us, but luckily a light breeze came off from the land which carried us out of danger and with which we stood to the northward. At day light in the morning we discoverd a Bay which appeard to be tollerably well shelterd from all winds into which I resoloved to go with the Ship and with this view sent the Master in the Pinnace to sound the entrance while we kept turning up with the Ship haveing the wind right out. At Noon the entran[c]e bore NNw distance I Mile. SUNDAY 29<1th>1. In the PM winds southerly clear weather with which we stood into the bay and Anchor'd under the South shore about 2 Mile within the entrence in 6 fathoms water, the south point bearing SE and the north point East.s Saw as we came in on both points of the [305 bay Several of the natives and a few hutts, Men, women and children on the south shore abreast of the Ship, to which place I went in the boats in hopes of speaking with thems accompaned by Mr Banks Dr Solander and Tupia; as we approached the shore they all made off except two Men who seemd resolved to oppose our landing. As soon as I saw this I orderd the boats to lay upon their oars in order to speake to them but this was to little purpose for neither us nor Tupia could understand one word they said. We then threw them some nails beeds &ca a shore which they took up and seem'd not ill pleased in so much that I thout that they beckon'd to us to come a shore; but in this we were mistaken, for as soon as we put the boat in they again came to oppose us upon which I fired a musket between the two which had no other effect than to make them retire back where bundles of thier darts lay, and one of them took up a stone and threw at us which caused my fireing a second Musquet load with small shott, and altho some of the shott struck the man yet it had no other effect than to make him lay hold of a Shield or target to defend himself.s Emmidiatly after this we landeds which we had no sooner done than they throw'd two darts at us, this obliged me to fire a third shott soon after which they both made off, but not in such haste but what we might have taken one, but Mr Banks being of opinion that the darts were poisoned, made me cautious how I advanced into the woods. We found here a few Small hutts made of the bark of trees in one of which were four or five small children with whome we left some strings of beeds &ca. A quantity of darts lay about the hutts these we took away with us. Three Canoes lay upon the bea[c]h the worst I think I ever saw, they were about 12 or 14 feet long made of one peice of the bark of a tree drawn or tied up at each end and the middle kept open by means of peices of sticks by way of Thwarts. After searching for fresh water without success except a little in a small hole dug in the sand, we embarqued and went over to the north point of the bay w[h]ere in coming in we saw several people, but when we now landed there were no body to be seen. We found here some fresh water which came trinkling down and stood in pools among the rocks; but as this was troblesome to come at I sent a party of men a shore in the morning to the place where we first landed to dig holes in the sand by which means and a small stream 306] they found fresh water sufficients to water the ship. The strings of beeds &ca we had left with the children last night were found laying in the hut this morning, probably the natives were afraid to take them away. After breakfast we sent some empty casks a shore and a party of men to cut wood and I went my self in the Pinnace to sound and explore the Bay, in the doing of which I saw severl of the natives but they all fled at my approach. I landed in two places one of which the people had but just left, as there were small fires and fresh muscles broiling upon them--here likewise lay vast heaps of the largest oyster shells I ever saw.s MONDAY 30<1th>1. As soon as the wooders and watere[r]s were come on board to dinner Io or 12 of the natives came to the watering place and took away there canoes that lay there but did not offer to touch any one of our Casks that had been left ashore, and in the after noon 16 or 18 of them came boldly up to within 100 yards of our people at the watering place and there made a stand. Mr Hicks who was the officer ashore did all in his power to entice them to him by offering them presents &ca but it was to no purpose, all they seem'd to want was for us to be gone. After staying a short time they went away. They were all arm'd with darts and wooden swords,s the darts have each four prongs and pointed with fish bones, those we have seen seem to be intend[ed] more for strikeing fish than offensive weapons neither are they poisoned as we at first thought. After I had returnd from sounding the bay I went over to a Cove on the north side where in 3 or 4 hauls with the saine we caught above 3oo pounds weight of fish which I caused to be equally divided among the Ships Company. In the AM I went in the Pinnace to sound and explore the North side of the bay where I neither met with inhabitants or any thing re- markable. Mr Green took the Suns Meridion Altitude a little with[in] the south entrence of the bay which gave the Latitude 34o0' S. [MAY 1770] TUESDAY 1<1st.>1 Gentle breezes northerly. In the PM ten of the natives again Viseted the watering place. I being on board at this time went emmidiatly ashore but before I got there they were going away, I [307 follow'd them alone and unarm'd some distance along the shore but they would not stop untill they got farther off than I choose to trust my self; these were arm'd in the same manner as those that came yesterday. In the evening I sent some hands to haul the Saine but they caught but a very few fish. A little after sun rise I found the Variation to be 11o3' East. Last night Torbys Sutherland seaman departed this life and in the AM his body was buried a shore at the watering place which occasioned my calling the south point of this Bay after his name.s This morning a party of us went ashore to some hutts not far from the watering place where some of the natives are daly seen, here we left several articles such as Cloth, Looking glasses, Combs, Beeds Nails &ca. After this we made an excursion into the country which we found deversified with woods, Lawnss and Marshes; the woods are free from under wood of every kind and the trees are at such a distance from one a nother that the whole Country or at least great part of it might be cultivated without being oblig'd to cut down a single tree; we found the soil every where except in the Marshes to be a light white sand and produceth a quant[it]y of good grass which grows in little tufts about as big as one can hold in ones hand and pretty close to one another, in this manner the surface of the ground is coated in the woods between the trees.s Dr Solander had a bads sight of a small Animal some thing like a rabbits and we found the dung of an Animal which must feed upon grass and which we judged could not be less than a deer,s we also saw the track of a dog or some such like Animal.s We met with some hutts and places where the natives had been and at our first seting out one of them was seen the others I suppose had fled upon our approach. I saw some trees that had been cut down by the natives with some sort of a blunt instrument and several trees that were barked the bark of which had been cut by the same Instrument, in many of the trees, especialy the palms, were cut steps about 3 or 4 feet asunder for the conveniency of climeing them. We found 2 sorts of Gum one sort of which is like 308] Gum Dragon and is the same as I suppose Tasman took for gum lac, it is extracted from the largest tree in the woods.s WEDNESDAY 2d. Between 3 and 4 o'Clock in the PM we returnd out of the Country and after dinner went a shore to the watering place where we had not been long before 17 or 18 of the natives appear'd in sight.sIn the morning I had sent Mr Gore with a boat up to the head of the bay to dridge for oysters; in his return to the ship he and another person came by land and met with these people who follow'd him at the distance of I9 or 2o yards; when ever Mr Gore made a Stand and face'd them they s[t]ood also and not withstanding they were all arm'd they never offerd to attack him, but after he had parted from them and they were met by Dr Munkhouse and one or two more who upon makeing a sham retreat they throw'd 3 darts after them, after which the[y] began to retire. Dr Solander, I, and Tupia made all the haste we could after them but could by neither words nor actions prevail upon them to come near us. Mr Gore saw some up the bay who by signs invited him ashore which he prudantly declined. In the AM had the wind at sE with rain which prevented me from makeing an excursion up to the head of the Bay as I intended. THURSDAY <13rd.>1 Winds at sE a gentle breeze and fair weather. In the PM I made a little excursion along the Sea Coast to the southward accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. At our first entering the woods we saw 3 of the natives who made off as soon as they saw us; more of them were seen by others of our people who likewise made offas soon as they found they were discover'd. In the AM I went in the Pinnace to the head of the Bay accompan'd by Drs Soland[er] and Munkhouse in order to examine the Country and to try to form some Connections with the natives: in our way theither we met with 10 or 12 of them fishing each in a small Canoe who retired in to shoald water upon our approach, others again we saw at the first place we landed at who took to their Canoes and fled before we came near them: after this we took water and went almost to the head of the inlet where we landed and travel'd some distance inland. We found the face of the Country much the same as I have before described [309 but the land much richer, for in stead of sand I found in many places a deep black Soil which we thought was capable of produceing any kind of grain, at present it produceth besides timber as fine meadow as ever was seen.s However we found it not all like this, some few places were very rocky but this I beleive to be uncommon; the stone is sandy and very proper for building &ca. After we had sufficiently examined this part we return'd to the boat and seeing some smook and Canoes at a nother part we went theither in hopes of meeting with the people but they made off as we approached. There were Six Canoes and Six small fires near the shore and Muscles roasting upon thim and a few Oysters laying near, from this we conjecterd that there had been just Six people who had been out each in his Canoe picking up the Shell fish and come a shore to eat them where each had made his fire to dress them by; we taisted of their cheer and left them in return strings of beeds &ca. Near to this place at the foot of a tree was a small well or Spring of w[ate]r.s The day being now far spent we set out on our return to the Ship. FRIDAY <14th.>1 Winds Northerly serene weather. Upon my return to the Ship in the evening I found that none of the natives had appear'd near the watering place but about 20 of them had been fishing in their Canoes at no great distance from us. In the AM as the wind would not permit us to sail I sent out some parties into the Country to try to form some Connections with the natives. One of the Midship- men met with a very old man and woman and two small Children; they were close to the water side where several more were in their canoes gathering shell fish and he being alone was afraid to make any stay with the two old people least he should be discoverd by those In the Canoes. He gave them a bird he had shott which they would not touch neither did they speak one word but seem'd to be much frighten'd, they were quite naked even the woman had nothing to 310] cover her nuditie. Dr Munkhouse and a nother man being in the woods not far from the watering place discoverd Six more of the natives who at first seemd to wait his coming but as he was going up to them hads a dart thrown at him out of a tree which narrowly escaped him, as soon as the fellow had thrown the dart he desended the tree and made off and with him all the rest and these were all that were met with in the Course of this day. SATURDAY 5<1th.>1 In the PM I went with a party of Men over to the North shore and while some hands were hauling the Saine a party of us made an excursion of 3 or 4 Miles into the Country or rather along the Sea Coast. We met with nothing remarkable, great part of the Country for some distance in land from the sea Coast is mostly a barren heath diversified with marshes and Morasses. Upon our return to the Boat we found they had caught a great number of small fish which the sailors call leather Jacketss on account of their having a very thick skin, they are known in the West Indias. I had sent the yawl in the morning to fish for <1sting rays>1 who return'd in the evening with upwards of 4 hundred weight; one single one wieghd 240 lb exclusive of the entrails.s In the AM as the wind still continued northerly I sent the yawl again afishing and I went with a party of Men into the Country but met with nothing extraordinary. SUNDAY 6<1th.>1 In the evening the yawl return'd from fishing having caught two Sting rays weighing near 600 pounds. The great quantity of New Plants &ca Mr Banks & Dr Solander collected in this place occasioned my giveing it the name of <1Botany Bay.>1s It is situated in the Latitude of 34o0' s, Longitude 208o37' West; it is Capacious safe and [311 commodious, its may be known by the land on the Sea-coast which is of a pretty even and moderate height, rather higher than it is farther inland with steep rocky clifts next the Sea and looks like a long Island lying close under the Shore: the entrance of the harbours lies about the Middle of this land, in coming from the Southward it is discoverd before you are abreast of it which you cannot do in coming from the northward; the entrance is little more than a Miles broad and lies in WNW. To sail into it keep the south shore on board untill within a small bare Island which lies close under the north shore,s being within that Island the deepests water is on that side 7, 6 and five fathom a good way up. There is shoal'd water a good way off from the South Shore from the inner South point qu[i]te to the head of the harbour, but over towards the north and NW shore is a channell of 12 or 14 feet water at low water 3 or 4 leagues up to a place where there is 3 & 4 fm but here I found very little fresh water. We anchord near the south shore about a Mile within the entrance for the con- veniency of sailing with a Southerly wind and the geting of fresh water but I afterwards found a very fine stream of fresh water on the north shore in the first sandy cove within the Island before which a Ship might lay almost land lock'd and wood for fual may be got every where: altho wood is here in great plenty yet there is very little variety, the largest trees are as large or larger than our oaks in England and grows a good deal like them and yeilds a redish gum, the wood itself is heavy hard and black like Lignum Vitae;s another sort that grows tall and strait some thing like Pines, the wood of this is hard and Ponderous and something of the nature of American live oaks,s these two are all the timber trees I met with. There are a few sorts of Shrubs and several Palm trees, and Mangroves about the head of the harbour. The Country is woody low and flat as far inland as we could see and I believe that the soil is in general sandy, in the wood are a variety of very boutifull birds such as Cocatoo's, Lorryquets, Parrots &ca and Crowss exactly like those we have in England. Water fowl are no less plenty about the head of the harbour where there are large flats of sand and Mud on which they seek their food, 312] the most of these were unknown to us, one sort especialy which was black and white and as large as a goose but most like a pelican.s On the Sand and Mud banks are Oysters, Muscles, Cockles &ca which I beleive are the cheif support of the inhabitants, who go into shoald water with their little Canoes and pick them out of the sand and Mud with their hands and sometimes roast and eat them in the Canoe, having often a fire for that purpose as I suppose, for I know no othersit can be for. The Natives do not appear to be numberous neither do they seem to live in large bodies but dispers'd in small parties along by the water side; those I saw were about as tall as Europeans, of a very dark brown colour but not black nor had they wooly frizled hair, but black and lank much like ours. No sort of cloathing or ornaments were ever seen by any of us upon any one of them or in or about any of their hutts, from which I conclude that they never wear any. Some we saw that had their faces and bodies painted with a sort of white paint or Pigment. Altho I have said that shell fish is their chief support yet they catch other sorts of fish some of which we found roasting on the fire the first time we landed, some of these they strike with gigs and others they catch with hook and line; we have seen them strike fish with gigs & hooks and lines were found in their hutts. Sting rays I believe they do not eat because I never saw the least remains of one near any of their hutts or fire places.s However we could know but very little of their customs as we never were able to form any connections with them, they had not so much as touch'd the things we had left in their hutts on purpose for them to take away.s During our stay in this Harbour I caused the English Colours to be display'd ashore every day and an inscription to be cut out upon one of the trees near the watering place seting forth the Ships name, date &ca. Having seen every thing this place afforded we at day light in the Morning weigh'd with a light breeze at Nw and put to sea and the wind soon after coming to the Southward we steer'd along shore NNE and at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33o50' S about 2 or 3 Miles from the land and abreast of a Bay or Harbour wherein there apperd to be safe anchorage [313 which I call'd <1Port Jackson.>1 It lies 3 Leags to the northward of Botany Bay.s I had almost forgot to mention that it is high water in this Bay at the full and change of the Moon about 8 o'Clock and rises and falls upon a perpendicular about 4 or 5 feet. MONDAY 7<1th.>1 Little wind southerly and serene pleasent weather. In the PM found the Variation by Several Azimuths to be 8o East. At sunset the Northermost land in sight bore N 26o East, and some broken land that appear'd to form a Bay boare N 40o West distant 4 Leagues, this bay I named <1Broken Bay,>1 Latitude 33o 36' s.s We steerd along shore NNE all night at the distance of about 3 Leagues from the land having from 32 to 36 fathom a hard sandy bottom. A little after Sun rise I tooke several Azimuths with four Needles belonging to the Azimuth Compass the mean result of which gave the Variation 7o 56' East. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33o 22' s and about 3 Leagues from the land, the northermost part of which in sight bore N 19o East. Some pritty high land which pro- jected out in three bluff points and occasioned my calling it <1Cape>1 <1Three Points>1 (Latde 33o 33') bore sw distant 5 Leagues. Longitude made from Botany Bay oo 19' East. TUESDAY 8<1th.>1 Variable Light winds and clear weather. In the PM saw some smooks upon the shore and in the evening found the Variation to be 8o 25' East, at this time we were about 2 or 3 Miles from the land and had 28 fathom water. Our situation at Noon was nearly the same as yesterday, having advance'd not one step to the northward. WEDNESDAY 9<1th.>1 Winds Northerly most part a fresh breeze with which we stood off shore untill 12 at night. At the distance of 5 Leagues from the land had 70 fathom, at the distance of 6 Leagues 80 fathom which is the extent of the Soundings for at the distance of 10 Leagues off we had no ground with 15o fathom. Stood in shore untill 8 oClock AM and hardly fetched C. Three Points. Having little wind at NWBN we tackd and stood off untill Noon at which time we tackd with the wind at NNE, being than in the Latde of 33o 37' s, Cape Three Points bearing NWBW distant four Leagues. 314] THURSDAY 10<1th.>1 In the PM had the wind at NEBN with which we stood in shore untill near 4 oClock when we tack'd in 23 fathom water being about a Mile from the land and as much to the Southward of Cape Three Points. In the night the wind veer'd to Nw and West and in the morning to SW. Having the advantage of a light Moon we made the best of our way along shore to the northward.s At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 32o 53' s, Longde 208o00' West and about 2 Leagues from the land which extended from N 41o E to S 41o W. A small round rock or Island laying close under the lands bore S 82o West distt 3 or 4 Leagues. At sun rise in the Morning found the variation to be 8o East. In the Latitude of 33o2' s a little way inland is a remarkable hill that is shaped like the Crown of a hatt which we past about 9 oClock in the forenoon. FRIDAY 11<1th.>1 Winds southerly in the day and in the night Westerly a gentle breeze and clear weather. At 4 PM past at the distance of I Mile a low rocky point which I named <1Point Stephens>1 (Latde 32o45) on the north side of this point is an inlet which I calld <1Port Stephens>1s (Lat. 32o 40, Logde 207o 51') that appear'd to me from the mast head to be shelterd from all winds. At the entrance lay 3 small Islandss two of which are of a tolerable height and on the Main near the shore are some high round hills that make at a distance like Islands,sin passing this bay at the distance of 2 or 3 Miles from the shore our soundings were from 33 to 27 fathoms from which I conjector'd that there must be a sufficient depth of water for shipping in the Bay. We saw several smooks a little way in the Country rise up from the flat land, by this I did suppose that there were Lagoons which afforded subsistance for the natives such as shell fish &ca for we as yet know nothing else they live upon. At 1/2 past 5 the Northermost land in sight bore N 36o E and Point Stephens South-west distant 4 Leagues. At this time we took in our studding sails and run under an easy sail all night untill 4 oClock am when we made all sail. Our soundings in the night was from 48 to 62 fathom at the distance of between 3 and 4 Leagues from the land. At 8 oClock we were abreast of a high point [315 of land which made in two hillocks, this point I call'd <1Cape Hawke;>1s Latde 32o14' S, Longde 207o30 West; it bore from us at this time west distt 8 Miles and at the same time the northermost land in sight bore N 6o East and appear'd high and like an Island. At Noon this land bore N 8o East the northermost land in sight N 13o East and Cape Hawke s 37o West, Latde in pr Observation 32o 2' s, which was 12 Miles to the southward of that given by the Logg, which I do suppose to be owing to a current seting that way. Course and distance saild sence yesterday at Noon was first NEBE 27 Miles than N 10o E 37 Miles. Longde in 207o 20' West. Variation pr Morning Ampde and Azimuths 9o 10' East. SATURDAY 12<1th>1. Winds southerly a gentle breeze. In the PM as we run along shore we saw several smooks a little way in land from the sea and one upon the top of a hill which was the first we have seen upon elivated ground sence we have been upon the coast. At sun set we were in 23 fathom water and about a League and a half from the land, the northermost part of which that we had in sight bore N 13o East and three remarkable large high hills lying continguouss to each other and not far from the shore bore NNw. As these hills bore some resemblence to each other we call'd them the <1Three Brothers,>1 they lay in the Latitude of 31o40' S and are of a height sufficent to be seen 14 or 16 Leags. We steerd NEBN all night having from 27 to 67 fathom water from 2 to 5 or 6 Leagues from the land. At day light we steer'd north for the northermost land we had in sight. At noon we were 4 Leagues from the land and by observation in the Latitudee of 31o 18' s, which was 15 Miles to the southrd of that given by Log. Our Course and distance made good sence yesterday noon was N 24o E 48 Miles. Longde in 206o58' West. Several smooks seen a little way in land. SUNDAY 13<1th>1. In the PM stood in shore with the wind at NE untill 6 oClock at which time we tack'd being about 3 or 4 Miles from the land and in 24 fathom water. Stood off shore with a fresh breeze at North and NNW untill Midnight then tackd being in 118 fathom water and 8 Leagues from the land. At 3 AM the wind veer'd to the west- ward and we tack'd and stood to the northward. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 30o43' s and Longde 206o45' west and about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land, the northermost part of which bore from us N 13o West and a point or headland on which were fires that caused a great quantity of smook which occasioned my giving it the name of <1smooky Cape,>1 bore sw distant 4 Leagues. It is moderatly 316] high land, over the pitch of the point is a round hillock, within it two others much higher and larger and within them very low land. Latitude 3oo51' S, Longitude 206o54' West. Besides the smook seen upon this Cape we saw more in several other places along the Coast. The observed Latitude was only 5 Miles to the southrd ofthe Log. MONDAY 14<1th.>1 At 1 PM it fell calm and continued so about an hour when a breeze sprung up at NE with which we stood in shore untill 6 oClock when being in 3o fathom water and 3 or 4 Miles from the land we tackd having the wind at NNW. At this time Smooky Cape bore S3/4W distant about 5 Leags and the northermost land in sight N1/4E. At 8 oClock we made a trip in shore for an hour, after this the wind came Cross off shore with which we stood along shore to the north- ward having from 3o to 21 fm water at the distance of 4 or 5 Miles from the land. At 5 AM the wind veer'd to north and blow'd a fresh breeze attended with squals and dark clowdy weather. At 8 oClock it began to Thunder and rain which lasted about an hour and then fell calm which gave us an oppertunity to sound and found 86fm water being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the land. After this we got the wind southerly a fresh breeze and fair weather and we tur[n]d NBw for the northermost land we had in sight.s At Noon we were about 4 Leagues from the land and by observation in the Latitude of 30o 22' s, which was 9 Miles to the southward of that given by the Log. Longitude in 206o 39' W, and Course and distance made good sence yesterday noon N 16o East 22 Miles. Some tolerable high land near the shore bore west. As I have not mentiond the aspect of the Country sence we left <1Bottany Bay>1 I shall now discribe it as it hath at different times appeard to us. As we have advanced to the northward the land hath increased in height in so much that in this latitude it may be call'd a hilly country but between this and Botany Bay it is diversified with an agreeable variety of hils ridges Vallies and large planes all cloathed with wood which to all appearence is the same as I have before mentiond. As we could discover no Visible alteration in the soil near the shore the land is in general low and sandy except the points which are rocky and over many of them are pretty high hills which at first rising out of the water appear like Islands. TUESDAY 15<1th.>1 Fresh gales at sw, wsw and SSW, in the PM had some heavy squals attended with Rain and hail which oblig'd us to close reef our topsails. Between 2 and 4 we had some small rocky Islands between us and the land, the southermost lies in the Latitude of [317 30o 10' and the northermost in 29o58' and about 2 Leagues or more from the land.s We sounded and had 33 fathom water about 2 Miles without this last Island. At 8 oClock we brought too untill 10 at which time we made sail under our topsails having the advantage of the Moon. We steerd along shore North and NBE keeping at the distance of about 3 Leagues from the land having from 3o to 25 fathom water. As soon as it was day light we made all the sail we could having the advantage of a fresh gale and fine weather. At 9 oClock being about a League from the land we saw upon it People and smook in several places. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 28o 39 S and Longitude 206o 27'. Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon North 6o45' East Io4 Miles. A tolerable high point of land bore NWBW distant 3 Miles--this point I named <1Cape Byron>1s (Latitude 28o 37'30" S, Longde 206o30' West). It may be known by a re- mar[k]able sharp peaked Mountain lying inland From this point the land trends N 13o W. Inland it is pretty high antd hilly but near the shore it is low; to the southward of the point the land is low and tolerable level. WEDNESDAY 16<1th>1. Winds southerly a fresh gale with which we steerd North along shore untill sun-set at which time we discoverd breakers ahead and on our larboard bow, being at this time in 2o fathom water and about 5 Miles from the land. Hauld off east untill 8 oClock at which time we had run 8 Miles and had increased our depth of water to 44 fathoms. We than brought too with her head to the Eastward and lay on this tack untill 10 oClock when having increased our soundings to 78 fathom we wore and lay with her head in shore untill 5 oClock AM when we made sail. At day light we were Surprised in finding our selves farther to the southward than we were in the evening and yet it had blowen strong Southerly all night. We now saw the breakers again within us which we past at the distance ofs I League, they lay in the Latde of 38s8' & stretch off East two Leagues from a point under which is a small Island,s there situation may always be found by the peaked mountain before mentioned which bears SWBW from them and on this account I have named [it] 318] <1Mount Warning.>1 It lies 7 or 8 Leagues inland in the latitude of 28o22 S, the land is high and hilly about it but it is conspicuous enough to be distinguished from every thing else. The point off which these shoals lay I have named <1Point Danger.>1s To the northward of it the land which is low trends NWBN but we soon found that it did not keep that direction long before it turnd again more to the northward. At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the land and by observation in the latitude of 27o 46 S, which was 17 Miles to the Southward of the Log. Longitude 206o 26' W. Mount Warning bore S 20o West distant 14 Leagues, the northermost land in sight bore North. Our Course and distance made good sence yester[day] N 1o45' West 53 Miles. THURSDAY 17<1th>1. Winds southerly mostly a fresh breeze with which in the pm we steer'd along shore N3/4E at the distance of about 2 Leagues off. Between 4 and 5 we discoverd breakers on our larboord bow, our depth of water at this time was 37 fathom. At sun set the northermost land in sight bore NBW, the breakers NWBW distant 4 Miles and the northermost land set at noon, which form'd a point which I nam'd <1Point lookout,>1 bore west distant 5 or 6 Miles (Latitude 28o 6's). On the north side of this point the shore forms a wide open Bay which I have named <1Morton>1s <1bay,>1 in the bottom of which the land is so low that I could but just see it from the top mast head. The breakers I have mentioned lies about 3 or 4 Miles from Point Look- out. At this time we had a great sea from the southward which broke prodigious high upon them. Stood on NNE untill 8 oClock when being past the breakers and having deepen'd our water to 52 fathom we brought too untill 12 oClock than made sail again to the NNE' at 4in the AM we sounded and [had] 135 fm. At day light I found that we had [319 in the night got much farther to the northward and from the shore than I expected from the Course we steerd for we were at least 6 or 7 Leagues off and therefore haul'd in NWBW having the advantage of a fresh gale at ssw, the northermost land seen last night bore from us at this time ssw distant 6 Leagues. This Land I named <1C. Morton>1 it being the N Point of the Bay of the same name (Latde 26o 56' Longd 206o 28'). From C. Morton the Land trends away west farther than we could see for there is a small space where we could see no land; some on board wass of opinion that there is a River there because the Sea lookd paler than usual, upon sounding we found 34 fathom water a fine white sandy bottom, which a lone is sufficeint [to] change the apparant colour of sea water without the assistance of Rivers. The land need only to be a[s] low here as it is in a thousand other places upon the coast to have made it impossible for us to have seen it at the distance we were off. Be this as it may it was a point that could not be clear'd up as we had the wind, but should any one be desirous of do[ing] it that may come after mes this place may always be found by three hills which lay to the northward of it in the Latitude of 26o 53' S. These hills lay but a little way inland and not far from each other, they are very remarkable on account of there singlar form of elivation which very much resembles glass houses which occasioned my giving them that name, the northermost of the three is the highest and largest. There are likewise several other peaked hills inland to the northward of these but they are not near so remarkable. At Noon we were by Obsn in the latitude of 26o 28' S, which was 10 Miles to the northward of the log a circumstance that hath not happend sence we have been upon the coast before. Our Course and distance run sence yesterday noon was NBw 8o Miles, which brought us into the Longde of 206o 46'. At this time we were about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land and in 24 fathom water. A low bluff points which was the south point of an open sandy bays bore N 62o w distant 3 Leagues and the northermost point of land in sight bore N1/4E. Several smooks Seen today and some pretty far inland. FRIDAY 18<1th>1. In steering along shore at the distance of two leagues off our soundings was from 24 to 32 fathom a sandy bottom. At 6 oClock pm the northern point of land sets bore N1/4 West distant 4 320] Leagues. At 10 oClock it bore NWBW1/2W and as we had seen no land to the northward of it we brought too not knowing which way to steer, having at this time but little wind and continued so the most part of the night. At 2 AM we made sail with the wind at sw and at day light saw the land extending as far as N3/4E. The point set last night bore SWBW distant 3 or 4 Leagues, I have named it <1Double Island>1 <1Point>1s from its figure (Latde 25o 58' S, Longde 206o 48' West). The land within this Point is of a moderate and pretty equal height but the Point it self is of such an unequal height that it looks like two small Islands laying under the land. It likewise may be known by the white clifts on the north side of it, here the land trends to the NW and forms a large open Bays in the bottom of which the land appear'd to be very low, in so much that we could butjust see it from the deck; in crosing the mouth of this Bay our depth of water was from 30 to 22 fathom a white sandy bottom. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the land and in the Latitude of 25o 34' s, Longde 206o 45' West. Double Isld Point bore S3/4W and the northermost land in sight N3/4E. The land here abouts which is of a moderate height appears more barren than any we have yet seen on this coast and the soil more sandy, there being several large places where nothing else is to be seen; in other places the wood looks to be low and shrubby nor did we see many signs of inhabitants. SATURDAY 19<1th.>1 In the PM had variable light Airs and Calms, in the night had a light breeze from the land which in the AM Veerd to sw and ssw. In the evening found the variation to be s 36' East and in the Morning 8o20'. As we had but little wind we kept on to the northward all night having from 23 to 27 fathom a fine sandy bottom at the distance of two or three leagues from the land. At noon we were about 4 Miles from it and by observation in the Latitude of 25o 4' and in this situation had but 13 fathom water. The northermost land in sight bore N 21o West distant 8 Miles. Our Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon was N 13o 15' East 31 Ms. SUNDAY 20<1th>1. Winds southerly gentle breezes. At 10 oClock in the PM we pass'd at the distance of 4 Miles having 17 fm water a black bluf head or point of land on which a number of the natives were as- sembled which occasioned my nameing it <1Indian Head>1 (Latde 25o0'). NBw 4 Miles from this head is a nother much like it, from this last the land trends a little more to the westward and low and sandy next the Sea, for what may be behind it we know not,s if land it must be all very [321 low for we could see no part of it from the mast head. We saw people in other places besides the one I have mentioned, some smooks in the day and fires in the night. Having but little wind all night we kept on to the northward haveing from 17 to 34 fathom water from 4 Miles to 4 Leagues from the land, the northermost part of which bore from us at day light WSW and seem'd to end in a point from which we dis- coverd a reef stretching out to the northward as far as we could see, being at this time in 18 fathom water, for we had before it was light hauld our wind to the westward and this course we continued untill we had plainly discoverd breakers a long way upon our lee bow which seemd to stretch quite home to the land. We than edge'd away Nw and NNW along the East side of the shoal from 2 to 1 Mile off having regular even soundings from 13 to 7 fathom a fine sandy bottom. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 24o26' s, which was 13 Miles to the northward ofs that given by the Log. The extreme point of the Shoal wejudged to bear about Nw from us and the point of land above mentioned bore S3/4W distant 20 Miles, this point I have named <1Sandy Cape>1 on accou[n]t of two very large white patches of Sand upon it. It is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 Leagues in clear weather (Latde 24o 46's Longde 206o 51') from it the land trended away WSW and SW as far as we could see. MONDAY 21<1st.>1 In the PM we kept along the East side of the shoal untill 2 oClock whenjudging that there was water for us over I sent a boat ahead to sound and upon her makeing the signal for more than 5 fathom we hauld our wind and stood over the tail of it in 6 fathom. At this time we were in the Latitude of 24o22' and <1Sandy>1 <1Cape>1 bore S1/2E distant 8 Leagues, but the dire[c]tion of the Shoal is nearest NNW and SSE. At the time we had 6 fathom the boat which was not above a quarter of a Mile to the southd of us had little more then 5 fathom. From 6 fathom we had the next cast 13 and than 20 emmidiatly as fast as the men could heave the lead, from this I did suppose that the west side of the shoal is pretty steep too whereas on the other side we had gradual sounding from 13 to 7 fathom. This Shoal I call'd <1Break Sea Spit,>1 because now we had smooth water whereas upon the whole Coast to the southrd of it we had allways a high sea or swell from ye SE. At 6 oClock the Land of <1Sanday Cape>1 extending from South 17o East to South 27o East distant 8 Leagues, depth of water 23 fathom, which depth we kept all night as we stood to the westward with light airs from the southward; but between 12 and 4 AM we had it calm 322] after which a gentle breeze sprung up at south with which we still kept on upon a wind to the westward. At 7 oClock we saw from the Mast head the Land of <1Sandy Cape>1 bearing SE1/2E distant 12 or 13 Leagues. At 9 we discoverd from ye Mast head land to the westward and soon after saw smooks upon it; our depth of water was now decreased to 17 fathom and by noon to 13, at which time we were by observation in the Latitude of 24o 28' and about 7 Leagues from the land which extended from sBw to wNw. Longitude made from <1Sandy>1 <1Cape>1 0o 45' West. For these few days past we have seen at times a sort of Sea fowl we have no where seen before that I remember, they are of that sort called Boobies;s before to day we seldom saw more than 2 or 3 at a time and only when we were near the land. Last night a small flock of these birds pass'd the Ship and went away to the NW and this morning from half an hour before sun rise to half an hour after flights of them were continualy coming from the NNw and flying to the SSE and not one was seen to fly in any other dire[c]tion, from this we did suppose that there was a Lagoon, River or Inlet of shallow water to the southward of uss where these birds resorted to in the day to feed and that not very far to the northward lay some Island where they retired to in the night.s TUESDAY 22<1d>1. In the PM had a gentle breeze at sE with which we stood in for the land SW untill 4 oClock when being in the Latde of 24o36' s and about 2 Leagues from land in 9 fathom water we bore away along shore NWBW. At the same time we could see the land extending to the South South East about 8 Leagues. Near the Sea the land is very low but in land are some moderatly high hills and the whole appear'd to be thickly cloathed with wood. In runing along shore we shoalden our water from 9 to 7 fathom and at one time had [323 but 6 fathm which determined me to anchor for the night and ac- cordingly at 8 oClock we came too in 8 fathom water a fine gravely bottom about 5 Miles from the land. ThIs evening we saw a water snake and 2 or 3 evenings ago one lay under the Ships stern some time, this was about a yard and a half in length and was the first we had seen.s At 6 oClock in the AM we wieg'd with a gentle breeze southerly and steerd NW1/4W edgeing in for the land untill w[e] got within 2 Miles of it having from 7 to 11 fathom water, we then steer'd NNW as the land laid. At noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 24o 19' S, Longitude made from <1Sandy Cape>1 1o 14' West. WEDNESDAY 23<1rd>1. Continued our Course along shore at the distance of about 2 Miles off having from 12 to 9, 8 and 7 fathom water untill 5 oClock at which time we were abreast of the South point of a large open bay where in I intended to anchor, accordingly we hauld in close upon a wind and sent a boat ahead to sound. After making some trips we anchor'd at 8 oClock in 5 fathom water a Sandy bottom. The South point of the Bay bore E3/4South distance 2 Miles, the north point NW1/4N about 2 Miles from the Shore in the bottom of the bay. Last Night some time in the Middle watch a very extraordinary affair happend to Mr Orton my Clerk, he having been drinking in the Evening, some Malicious person or persons in the Ship took the advantage of his being drunk and cut off all the cloaths from off his back, not being satisfied with this they some time after went into his Cabbin and cut off a part of both his Ears as he lay asleep in his bed. The person whome he suspected to have done this was Mr Magra one of the Midshipmen, but this did not appear to me upon inquirey. However as I know'ds Magra had once or twice before this in their drunken frolicks cut of his Cloaths and had been heard to say (as I was told) that if it was not for the Law he would Murder him, these things consider'd induce'd me to think that Magra was not alto- gether innocent. I therefore, for the present dismiss'd him the quarter deck and susspended him from doing any duty in the Ship, he being one of those gentlemen, frequently found on board Kings Ships, that can very well be spared, or to speake more planer good for nothing.s Besides it was necessary in me to show my immedate resentment againest the person on whome the suspicion fell least they should not have stoped here. With respect to Mr Orton he is a man not without 324] faults, yet from all the enquiry I could make, it evidently appear'd to me that so far from deserving such treatment he had not designedly injured any person in the Ship, so that I do and shall all ways look upon him as an enjure'd man. Some reasons might however be given why this misfortune came upon him in which he himself was in some measure to blame, but as this is only conjector and would tend to fix it up [on] some people in the Ship whome I would fain believe would hardly be guilty of such an act[i]on, I shall say nothing about it unless I shall hereafter discover the Offenders which I shall take every method in my power to do, for I look upon such proceedings as highly dangerous in such Voyages as this and the greatest insult that could be offer'd to my authority in this Ship, as I have always been ready to hear and redress every complaint that have been made against any Person in the Ship.s In the AM I went a shore with a party of men in order to examine the Country accompaned by Mr Banks and the other gentlemen. We landed a little within the South point of the Bay where there is a channel leading into a large Lagoon. The first thing I did was to sound and examine this channel in which I found 3 fathom water untill I got about a Mile up it, where I met with a Shoal whereon was little more than one fathom, being over this I had 3 fathom again. The entrance into this channel lies close to the South point of the Bay being form'd on the East by the shore and on the West by a large spit of sand, it is about a quarter of a Mile broad and lies in SBW; here is room for a few ships to lay very secure and a small Stream of fresh water. After this I made a little excursion into the woods while some hands made 3 or 4 hauls with the Sain but caught not above a dozen very small fish; by this time the flood was made and I embarqued [325 in the boat in order to row up the Lagoon but in this I was hindred by meeting every where with shoal water. As yet we had seen no people but saw a great deal of smook up and on the west side of the Lagoon which was all too far off for us to go by land excepting one; this we went to and found 1o small fires in a very small compass and some cockle shells laying by them but the people were gone. On the windward or South side of one fire was stuck up a little bark about a foot and a half high and some few pieces lay about in other places; these we concluded were all the covering they had in the night and many of them I firmly believe have not this but naked as they are Sleep in the open air, Tupia who was with us observed that they were <1Taata Eno's>1s that is bad or poor people. The Country is vissibly worse than at the last place we were at, the Soil is dry and Sandy and the woods are free from under-wood of every kind. Here are of the same sort of trees as we found in Botany Bays with a few other sorts; one sort which is by far the most numerous of any in the woods grows something like birch,s the bark at first sight looks like birch bark but upon examanation I found it to be very different and so I believe is the wood, but this I could not examine as having no ax or any thing with me to cut down a tree. About the skirts of the Lagoon grows the true Mangrove such as arc found in the West Indias and which we have not seen during the Voyage before, here is like- wise a sort of a Palm tree which grows on low barren and sandy places in the South Sea Islands.s All or most of the same sorts of land and water fowl as we saw at Botany Bay we saw here, besides these Black & white Ducks,s and Bustards such as we have in England one of which we killd that weigh'd 171/2 poundss which occasioned my giving this place the name of <1Bustard Bay>1s (Latd 24o 4, Lon d 326] 208o 22').s Here are plenty of small oysterss sticking to the Rocks, stones and Mangrove trees and some few other shell fish such as large Musels,s Pearl oysters,s Cockels &ca. I measured the perpendicular height of the last tide and found it to be 8 feet above low-water mark and from the time of low-water to day I found that it must be high water at the full and change of the Moon at8 oClock.s THURSDAY 24<1th>1. In the PM I was empd a Shore in the transactions before related. At 4 in the AM we weighd with a gentle breeze at South and made sail out of the Bay. In standing out our soundings were from 5 to 15 fm, when in this last depth we were abreast of the north point and being day light we discoverd breakers stretching out from it about NNE 2 or 3 Miles. At the outermost part of them is a rock just above water, in passing these rocks at the distance of half a Mile we had from 15 to 20 fathom, being past them we hauld along shore wNw for the farthest land we had in sight. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 23o 52' S' the north pt of <1Bustard Boy>1 bore s 62o East distant 10 Miles and the northermost land in sight N 60o W. Longde in 208o 37' w distant from the nearest shore 6 Miles, in this situation had 14 fathom water. FRIDAY 25<1th>1. In the PM had it calm untill 5 oClock when a light breeze sprung up at SE and we steer'd NW as the land lay untill 10 oClock, then brought too having had all along 14 and 15 fathom water. At 5 in the AM we made sail, at day light the northermost point of the Main bore N 70o West and soon after we saw more land making like Islands bearing NWBN. At 9 oClock we were abreast of the point distant from it 1 Mile, depthof water 14 fathom. I found this point to lay directly under the Tropick of <1Capricorn>1 and for that reason call'd it by that Name. Longde 209o0' West.s Itis of a moderate height and looks white and barren and may be known by some Islands which layes to the NW of it and some small rocks one League [327 SE from it. On the west side of the Cape there appear'd to be a Lagoon, on the two spits which form'd the entrance were a great number of Pelicans at least so I call them. The most northermost land we could see bore from <1C. Capricorn>1 N 24o West and appear'd to be an Island,s but the Main land trended WBN1/2N which Course we steer'd having from 15 to 6 fathom and from 6 to 9 a hard sandy bottom. At noon our Latitude by observation was 23o 24' s. <1C.>1 <1Capricorn>1 bore S 60o East distant 2 Leagues, a small Island NBE 2 Miles.s In this situation had 9 fm water at the distance of 4 Miles from the Main land, which is here low and Sandy next the Sea, except the points which are moderatly high and rocky; in land the Country Is hilly and affords but a very indifferent prospect. SATURDAY 26<1th>1. In the PM had a light breeze at ESE with which we stood to the NW untill 4 o'Clock when it fell Calm and soon after we Anchor'd in 12 fathom water, <1Cape Capricorn>1 bearing s 54o East distant 4 Leagues, having the Main land and Islands in a manner all round us.s In the night we found the tide to rise and fall near 7 feet and the flood to set to the westward and Ebb to the Eastward, which is the very reverses to what we found it when at Anchor to the Eastward of Bustard Bay. At 6 in the AM we weigh'd with the wind at South a gentle breeze and stood away to the Nw between the outermost raing[e] of Islandss and the Main land, leaving several small Island[s] between us and the latter, which we passd close by. Our soundings was a little erregular from 12 to 4 fathom which caused me to send a boat a head to sound. At Noon we were about 3 Miles from the Main about the same distance from the Islands without us, our Latitude by obsn was 23o7' s and Longitude made from <1Cape Capricorn>1 I8 Miles west. The Main land in this Latitude is tolerable high and Moun- tainous and the Islands which lay off it are the most of them pretty high and of a small circuit and have more the appearence of barren- ness than fertillity. We saw smooks a good way inland which makes me think that there must be a River Lagoon or Inlets into the Country and we pass'd two places that had the appearence of such this morning, but our depth of water at that time was too little to haul in for them where I might expect to meet with less. SUNDAY 27<1th>1. We had not stood on to the northward quite an hour 328] before we fell into 3 fathom water, upon which I Anchor'd and sent away the Master with two boats to sound the Channell which lay to leeward of us between the Northermost Island and the Mainland, which appeard to me to be pretty broad; but I susspected that it was shoal and so it was found, for the Master reported to me upon his return that he found in many places only 21/2 fathoms, and where we lay at Anchor we had only 16 feet which was not 2 feet more then the Ship draw'd.s In the evening the wind Veer'd to ENE which gave us an oppertunity to stretch 3 or 4 Miles back the way we came before the wind shifted to South and oblige'd us again to anchor in 6 fathom. At 5 oClock in the AM I sent away the Master with two boats to search for a passage out between the Islands while we got the Ship under sail. As soon as it was light the Signal was made by the boats of thier having found a passage upon which we follow'd with the Ship.s After we had got out and into deep water we hoisted in the boats and made Sail to the Northward as the land lay, soundings from 9 to 15 fathom, having still some small Islands without us. At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Mainland and by observation in the Lati- tude of 22o53' S, Longitude made from <1Cape Capricorn>1 20 Miles west. At this time the northermost point of land we had in sight bore NNW distant 10 Miles, this point I named <1C. Manyfold>1 from the number of high hills over it. Latitude 22o43' S. It lies N 26o West distant 171/3 Leagues from <1C. Capricorn,>1 between them the shore forms a large bay which I call'd <1Keppel>1s <1Bay>1 and the Islands which lay in and off it are known by the same name. In this Bay is good anchorage where there is a sufficient depth of water. What refreshments it may afford for shipping I know not, we caught no fish here not withstanding we were at anchor. It can hardly be doubted but what it affords fresh water in several place[s] as both main land and Islands are inhabited; we saw smooks by day and fires in the night upon the Main and people upon one of the Islands. MONDAY 28<1th>1. Winds at ssE a fresh breeze. At 3 oClock in the PM we pass'd <1Cape Manifold>1 from which the land trends NNW, the land of this Cape is tolerable high and riseth in hills directly from the Sea; it may be known by three Islands laying off it, one near the shore and the [329 other two 8 Miles out at sea, the one of these is low and flat and the other high and round.s At 6 oClock we shortend sail and brought too, the northermost part of the Main we had in sight bore NW and some Islands laying offit bore N 31o west. Our soundings sence noon were from 2o to 25 fathoms and in the night 30 and 34 fathom. At day light in the Morning we made sail, <1Cape Manifold>1 bearing SBE distant 8 Leagues and the Islands set last night in the same direction distant from us 4 Miles; the farthest point of the Main bore N 67o w distant 22 Miles, but we could see several Islands to the northward of this direction.s At 9 oClock we were abreast of the above point which I named <1Cape Townshend>1 (Latitude 22o 13', Longde 209o 48' West);s the land of this Cape is of a moderate and pretty even height and is more barren than woody. Several Islands lay to the northward of it 4 or 5 Leagues out at Sea. 3 or 4 Leagues to the sE the shore forms a bays in the bottom of which there appear'd to be an inlet or harbour. To the westward of the Cape the land trends sw1/2s and there forms a very large bays which turns away to the Eastward and probably com- 330] mun[i]cates with the inlet above mentioned and by that means makes the land of the Cape an Island.s As soon as we got round this Cape we hauld our wind to the westward in order to get within the Islands which lay scaterd upons and down in this bay in great number and extend out to sea as far as we could see from the Mast head, how much farther will hardly be in my power to determine, they are as various both in their height and circuit as they are numerous.s We had not stood long upon a wind before we met with shoal water and was obliged to tack at once to avoide it, after which I sent a boat ahead and we bore away WBN leaving many small Islands, Rocks & Shoals between us and the Main and a number of larger Islands without us. Soundings from 14 to 17 fathom sandy bottom. A little before noon the boat made the Signal for meeting with Shoal water, upon this we hauld close upon a wind to the Eastward but suddenly fell into 31/4 fathom water, upon which we immidiatly let go an Anchor and brought the Ship up with all sails standing and had then 4 fathom course sandy bottom; we found here a Strong tide seting to the NWBW1/2W at the rate of between 2 and 3 Miles an hour which was what carried us so quickly upon the Shoal.s Our Latitude by observa- tion was 22o 8' S. <1Cape Townshend>1 bore East 16o South distant 13 Miles and the westermost part of the Main land in sight W3/4N, having a number of Islands in sight all round us. TUESDAY 29<1th>1. Fresh gales between the ssE and EsE Hazy wer with some showers of rain in the PM. Having sounded about the Ship and found that there was sufficient water for her over the Shoal we at 3 oClock weigh'd and came to sail and stood to the westward as the land lay having first sent a boat ahead to sound. At 6 o'Clock we Anchord in 1o fathom water a sandy bottom about 2 Miles from the Main land, the westermost part of which bore NW having still a number of Islands in sight a long way without us. At 5 oClock in the AM I sent away the Master with two boats to sound the entrance of an inlet which bore from us west distant about one League, into which I intended to go with the Ship to wait a few days untill the Moon increased and in the Mean time to examine the Country. By such [331 time as we had got the Ship under Sail the boats made the signal for anchor[a]ge upon which we stood in with the Ship and Anchord in 5 fathom water about a League within the entrance of the inlet, which we judged to be a River runing a good way inland.s As I observed the tides to flow and Ebb something considerable I had some thoughts oflaying the Ship a shore to clean her bottom. With this View both the Master and I went to look for a convinient place for that purpose and at the same time to look for fresh water, not one drop of which we could find, but met with several places where a Ship might be laid a shore with safety. WEDNESDAY 30<1th>1. In the PM I went again in search of fresh water but had no better success than before, wherefore I gave over all thoughts of laying the Ship a shore being resolved on spending as little time as possible in a place that was likely to afford us no sort of refreshment, but as I had observed from the hills the Inlet to run a good way in land I thought this a good time to penetrate into the Country to see a little of the inland parts. Accordingly I prepar'd for makeing that excursion in the morning, but the first thing I did was to get upon a pritty high hill which is at the Nw entrance of the inlets before sunrise in order to take a view of the Sea coast and Islands &ca that lay off it, and to take their bearings having the Azimuth compass with me for that purpose, the needle of which differd from its true posission some thing very considerable even above 30o, in some places more and in others less for I try'd it in several. I found it differ from it self above 2 points in the space of 14 feet, the loose stones that lay upon the ground had no effect upon the needle, I therefore concluded that it must be owing to Iron ore in the hill, visible signs of which appear'd not only here but in several other places.s As soon as I had done here I proceeded up the Inlet. I set out with the first of the flood and long before high-water got above 8 Leagues up it, its breadth thus far was from 2 to 4 or 5 Miles upon a swBs dire[c]tion, but here it spread every way and formd a large lake which commun[i]cates with the Sea to the NW; I not only saw the Sea in this direction but found the tide of flood 332] coming Strong in from the Nw. I likewise observed an arm of this lake extending to the eastward and it is not att all improbable but what it communicates with the sea in the bottom of the bay which lies to the westward of <1C. Townshend.>1s On the south side of the lake is a ridge of pretty high hillss which I was desireous of going upon, but as the day was far spent and high-water I was afraid of being bewilderd among the Shoals in the night, which promised to be none of the best being already rainy dirty weather, and therefore I made the best of my way to the Ship. In this little excursion I saw only two people and those at a distance and are all that we have seen in this place, but we have met with several fire places and seen smooks at a distance. This Inlet which I have named <1Thirsty Sound>1s by reason we could find no fresh water lies in the Latitude of 22o05' S and Longi- tude 210o24' West.s It may be known by a Group of small Islands laying under the shore from 2 to 5 Leagues NW from it, there is like- wise another Group of Islands laying right before it between 3 and 4 Leagues out at Sea.s Over each of the points that form the entrance is a pretty high round hill, that on the Nw is a peninsula surrounded by the Sea at high-water, the distance from the one to the other is about two Miles bold to both shores. Here is good anchorage in 7, 6, 5 & 4 fathom water and very convenient places for laying a Ship aShore where at Spring tides the tides doth not rise less then 16 or 18 feet and flowes at full and change of the Moon about a 11 oClock. We met with no fresh water or any other kind of refreshments whatever, we saw two turtle but caught none nor no sort of fish or wild fowl except a few small land birds. Here are the same sort of water fowl as we saw in <1Botany Bay>1s and like them so Shy that it is hardly possible to get within shott of them. No signs of fertillity is to be seen upon the land, the Soil of the uplands is mostly a hard redish Clay and produceth several sorts of trees such as we have seen before and some others and clear of all under wood. All the low lands are mostly over run with Mangroves and at spring tides over flowed by the Sea, and I beleive in the rainy seasons here are large land floods as we saw in many places gullies which seem'd to have been made by torrents of water [333 coming from the adjacent hills, besides others vissible signs of the water having been a considerable height above the common spring tides. Dr Solander and I was upon a rising ground up the Inlet which we thought had at one time or a nother been over flowed by the Sea, and if so great part of the Country must at that time been laid under water. Up in the lakes or Lagoons I suppose are shell fish on which the few natives subsist. We found oysters sticking to most of the rocks upon the Shore which were so small as not to be worth the picking off.s THURSDAY 31<1st>1. Winds southerly and SE dark hazey weather with rain in the PM. Finding no one inducement to stay longer in this place we at 6 in the AM wieghd and put to Sea and stood to the Nw having the advantage of a fresh breeze at ssE. We kept without the Group of Islands which lay in shore & to the NW of <1Thirsty Sound,>1 as there appear'd to be no safe passage between them and the Main; at the same time we had a number of Islands without us extending out to sea as far as we could see. As we run in this dire[c]tion our depth of water was 10, 8 and 9 fathom. At Noon the Nw point of <1Thirsty Sound>1 which I have named <1Peir head>1 bore s 36o E distant 5 Leagues, the East point of the other inlet, which communicates with the former as I have before mention[ed], bore South by west distant 21/2 Leagues, the groupe of Islands above mentioned laying between us and the point; the farthest part of the Main in sight on the other side of the Inlet bore Nw. Our Latitude by Observation was 21 o53'. [JUNE 1770] FRIDAY June 1<1st.>1 At 1/2 an hour after noon upon the boat, which we had ahead sounding, makeing the Signal for Shoal waters we hauld our wind to the NE having at that time 7 fathom, the next cast 5 and than 3 upon which we let go an Anchor and brought the Ship up. The Nw point of <1Thirsty Sound>1 or <1Pier head>1 bore sE distant 6 Leagues, being midway between the Islands which lies off the East point of the western Inlet and three Small Islandss laying directly without them, it being now the first of the flood which we found to Set NWBW1/2W. 334] After having sounded about the Shoal on which we found not quite 3 fathom but without it deep water, we got under sail and hauld round the three Islands just mentioned and came too an Anchor under the lee of them in 15 fathom water, having at this time dark hazy rainy weather which continued untill 7 oClock AM; at which time we got again under sail and Stood to the Nw with a fresh breeze at ssE and fair weather, having the Main land in sight and a number of Islands all round us some of which lay out at Sea as far as we could see. The western Inlet before mentioned known in the Chart by the name of <1Broad Sound>1 we had now all open. It is at least 9 or 10 Leagues wide at the Entrance with several Islands laying in and before it and I beleive shoals also,s for we had very erregular sound- ings from 1o to 5 and 4 fathom. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 21o29' S and Longitude made from <1C. Townshend>1 59' West. A Point of Land which forms the Nw entrance into Broad Sound bore from us at this time west by North dist 3 Leagues. This Point I have named <1Cape Palmerston>1 (Latitude 21o 27' Longde 210o 57').s Between this Cape and C. Townshend lies the <1Bay of>1 <1Inlets,>1 so named from the number of Inlets Creeks &ca in it.s SATURDAY 2<1nd.>1 Winds at ssE and sE a gentle breeze, with which we stood to the Nw and NWBN as the land lay under an easy sail, having a boat ahead sounding; our soundings at first were very erregular from 9 to 4 fathoms, but afterwards regular from 9 to 11 fathom. At 8 oClock being about two Leagues from the Main land we anchor'd in 11 fathom sandy bottom. Soon after this we found a Slow motion of a tide seting to the westward. At 1 oClock it was Slack or low water and at 1/2 past 2 oClock the Ship tended to the Eastward and rode so untill 6 at which time the tide had risen 11 feet, we now got under sail and stood away NNW as the land lay. From the observa- tions made on the tides last night it is plain that the flood comes from the NW, whereas yesterday and for several days before we found it to come from the sE. This is neither the first nor second time that we have observed the same thing and in my opinion easy accounted for but this I shall do in another place.s At Sun rise we found the Varia- [335 tion to be 6o 45' East. In steering along shore between the Island and the Main at the distance of 2 Leagues from the latter and 3 or 4 from the former, our sounding were regular from 12 to 9 fathom but about a 11 oClock we were again embarrased with Shoal waters but got clear without leting go an Anchor, we had at one time not quite 3 fathom. At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main land and about 4 from the Islands without us; our Latitude by observation was 20o 56', Longitude made from <1Cape Palmerston>1 16' West. A pretty high Promontary which I named <1Cape Hillsborough>1s bore W1/2N distant 7 Miles. The Mainland is here pretty much deversified with Mountains, Hills plains and Vallies and seems to be tolerably cloathed with wood and Verdure. The Islands which lay parallel with the Coast and from 5 to 8 or 9 Leagues off are of Various extent both for height and circuit; hardly any exceeds 5 Leagues in circuit and many again are very small,s besides this chain of Islands which lay at a distance from the coast there are other small ones laying under the land. Some few smooks were seen on the Mainland. SUNDAY 3<1rd.>1 Winds between the SBE and SE a gentle breeze and clear weather. In the PM we steer'd along shore NW1/2W at the distance of two Leagues from the Main having 9 and 10 fathom water regular soundings. At sun set the farthest point of the Main land that we could distinguish as such bore N 48o West; to the northward of this lay some high land which I took to be an Island the Nw point of which bore N 41o West, but as I was not sure that there was a passage this way we at 8 oClock came too an Anchor in 1o fathom a muddy bottom. Two hours after this we had a tide seting to the nort[h]ward and at 2 oClock it had fallen 9 feet sence the time we anchor'd. After this the tide begun to rise and the flood came from the northward which was from the Islands out at Sea and planly indicated that there was no passage to the Nw. But as this did not appear at day light when we got under sail wes stood away to the NW untill 8 oClock, at this time we discoverd low land quite aCross what we took for an opening between the Main and the Islandss which proved to be a Bay about 5 or 6 Leagues deep. Upon this we hauld our wind to the 336] Eastward round the north point of the Bay which bore from us at this time NEBN distant 4 Leagues. From this point we found the Main land trend away NBW1/2W and a strait or passage between it and a large Island or Islands laying in a parallel direction without, whichs passage we stood into having the tide of Ebb in our favour. At Noon we were just within the entrance and by observation in the Latde of 20o 26' S. <1Cape Hillsborough>1 bore SBE distant 10 Leagues and the North point of the bay before mentiond bore S 19o West distant 4 Miles. This point I have named <1Cape Conway>1s (Latde 20o30' Longs 211o 28') and the Bay <1Repulse Bay>1s which is form'd by these Two Capes. The greatest and least depth of water we found in it was 13 and 8 fathom every where safe anchorage, and I believe that was it properly examined there would be found some good harbours in it especialy on the north side within <1Cape Conway,>1 for just within this Cape lay two or three small Islands which alone would shelter that side of the Bay from the SE and Southerly winds which seem to be the prevailing or trade winds. Among the many Islands that lay upon this coast there is one more remarkable than the rest being of a small [circuit]s very high and peakeds and lies EBS 10 Miles from <1Cape Conway>1 at the South end of the Passage above mentioned. MONDAY 4<1th.>1 Winds at SSE and SE a gentle breeze and clear weather. In the PM steer'd thro the passage which we found from 3 to 6 or 7 Miles broad and 8 or 9 Leagues in length NBW1/2W and SBE1/2E. It is form'd by the Main on the west and by Islands on the East one of which is at least 5 Leagues in length,s our depth of water in runing through was between 25 and 2o fathom every where good anchorage. Indeed the whole passage is one continued safe harbour, besides a number of small Bays and Coves on each side where Ships might lay as it were in a Bason, at least so they appeard to me for I did not wait to examine them as having been in Port so lately and being unwilling to loose the benefit of a light Moon. The land both on the Main and Islands especialy on the former is tolerable high and dis- [337 tinguished by hills and Vallies which are deversified with woods and Lawns that look'd green and pleasent. On a Sandy beach upon one of the Islands we saw two people and a Canoe with an outrigger that appeard to be both larger and differently built to any we have seen upon the Coast.s At 6 oClock we were nearly the length of the north end of the passage, the Nwermost point of the Main in sight bore N 54o West and the north end of the Islands NNE having an open sea beween these two points. This Passage I have named <1Whitsunday's>1 <1Passage,>1 as it was discoverd on the Day the Church commemorates that Festival and the Islands which form it <1Cumberland Isles>1 in honour of His Royl Highness the Duke of Cumberland.s We kept under an easy Sail and the lead going all night having 21, 22 and 23 fm at the distance of 3 Leagues from the land. At day light in the Morning we were abreast of the point above mentioned which is a Lofty pro- montary that I named <1Cape Gloucester>1 (Latitude 19o 57 S, Longde 211o 54' W);s it may be known by an Island which lies out at Sea NBW1/2W 5 or 6 Leagues from it, this I calld <1Holburn Isle.>1s There are also Islands laying under the land between it and <1Whitsundays Passage;>1 on the west side of the Cape the land trends away SW and SSW and forms a deep bay, the land in the bottom of this bay I could butjust see from the Mast head it is very low and is a Continuation of the same low land as is at the bottom of <1Repulse Bay>1. Without waiting to look into this Bay which I call'd <1Edgcumbe Bay>1s we continued our Course to the westward for the westermost land we had in sight, which bore from us WBN1/2N and appeard very high. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the land and by observation in the Latitude of 19o 47' S, <1Cape Gloucester>1 bearing S 63o East distant 71/2 Leagues. TUESDAY 5<1th.>1 Winds between the South and East a very gentle breeze and serene weather. At 6 oClock AM we were abreast of the western point of land above mentioned (distant from it 3 Miles) which I have named <1Cape Upstart>1s because being surrounded with low 338] land, it starts or riseth up singley at the first making of it (Latitude 19o 39' Longde 212o 32' W) it lies west-north-west 14 Leagues from Cape <1Gloucester>1 and is of a height sufficent to be seen 12 Leagues, but it is not so much of a Promontory as it appears to be because on each side of it near the Sea is very low land which is not to be seen unless you are pretty well in with the shore. Inland are some tolerable high hills or Mountains which like the Cape afford but a very barren prospect. Having past this Cape we continued standing to the west north-west as the land lay under an easy sail, having from 16 to 10 fath water untill 2 oClock in the AM when we fell into 7 fathom, upon which we hauld our wind to the northward judging our selves to be very near the land as so we found, for at day light we were little more than 2 Leagues off; what decived us was the lowness of the land which is but very little higher than the surface of the Sea but in this low Countrys were some hills. At Noon we were in 15 fathom water and about 4 Leagues from the land--our Latitude by observation was 19o 12' S. <1Cape Upstart>1 bore S 38o 30' East distant 12 Leagues; Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon N 48o 45', 53 Miles. At and before noon some very large smooks were seen rise up out of the Lowland. At sun rise I found the Variation to be 5o 35' Easterly. At sun set last night the same needle gave near 9o, this being close under <1Cape Upstart>1 I judged that it was owing to Iron ore or other Magnetical matter lodged in the earth. WEDNESDAY 6<1th.>1 Light airs at ESE with which we steer'd WNW as the land now lay, depth of water 12 & 14 fathoms. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 19o 1', Longitude made from <1Cape>1 <1Gloucester>1 1o 30' west, Course and distance saild sence yesterday noon WNW 28 Miles. In this situation we had the mouth of a bay all open extending from the S1/2E to SW1/2S distant 2 Leagues. This bay which I named <1Cleveland Bay>1s appear'd to be about 5 or 6 Miles in extent every way; the East point I named <1Cape Cleveland>1 and the West <1Magnetical head>1 or <1Isle>1 as it had much the appearence of an Island and the Compass would not travis well when near it.s They are both tolerable high and so is the Mainland within them and the whole [339 appear'd to have the most ruged, rocky and barrenest Surface of any we have yet seen. However it is not without inhabitants as we saw smooks in several place[s] in the bottom of the Bay. The norther- most land we had in sight at this time bore NW, this we took to be an Island or Islands for we could not trace the Main land farther then WBN.s THURSDAY 7<1th.>1 Light airs between the South and East with which we steerd WNW, keeping the Main land on board the outermost part of which at sun set bore from us WBN, but without this lay high land which we took to be Islands. At day light in the Morning we were the length of the Eastern part of this land which we found to consist of a group of Islandss laying about 5 Leagues from the Main we being at this time between the two; we continued advanceing slowly to the NW untill Noon at which time we were by observation in the Latitude of 18o 49' and about 5 Leagues from the Main land, the Northwest part of which bore from us NBW1/2W the Island extending from North to East, distant offthe nearest 2 Miles; Cape <1Cleveland>1 bore s 50o East distant 18 Leagues. Our sounding in the Course of this days sail were from 14 to 11 fathom. FRIDAY 8<1th.>1 Winds at ssE and South first part light airs the re- mainder a gentle breeze. In the PM we saw several large smooks upon the main, some people Canoes and as we thought Cocoa-nutt Trees upon one of the Islands, and as a few of these nutts would have been very exceptable to us at this time I sent Lieutt Hicks a Shore with whome went Mr Banks and Dr Solander to see what was to be got, in the mean time we kep[t] standing in for the Island with the Ship. At 7 oClock they returnd on board having met with nothing worth observing, the trees we saw were a small kind of Cabbage Palms; they heard some of the Natives as they were puting off from the shore but saw none.s After the boats were hoisted in we stood away NBw for the northermost land we had in sight which we were abreast off at 3 oClock in the Morning having past all the Islands 3 or 4 hours before; this point I have named <1Point Hillick>1s on accou[n]t of its 340] figure. The land of this Point is tolerable high and may be known by a round hillick or rock that appears to be detatched from the Point but I beleive itjoins to it. Between this Cape and <1Iron Head>1s the Shore forms a large Bay which I named <1Rockingham>1s <1Bay,>1 before it lay the group of Islands before mentioned and some others nearer the shore. These Islands shelter the bay in a manner from all winds, in which is good anchorage, the land near the shore in the bottom of this bay is very low and woody, but a little way back in the Country is a continued ridge of high land which appear'd to be barren and rocky. Having past <1Point Hillick>1 we continued standing to the NNw as the land trended having the advantage of a light moon. At 6 oClock in the AM we were a breast of a point of land which lies NBW1/2W 11 Miles from <1Point Hillick,>1 the land between them is very high and of a craggy barren surface; this point I named <1Cape Sandwich>1 Honour ye Earl of that name.s It may not only be known by the high craggy land over it but by a small Island which lies East one mile from it and some others about two leagues to the northward of it.s From <1Cape>1 <1Sandwich>1 the land trends west and afterwards north and forms a fine large Bay which I call'd <1Halifax Bay;>1s it is well shelterd and affords [341 good anchorage, at least so it appeard to me, for having hitherto met with so little incouragement by goin[g] a shore that I would not wait to land or examine it further, but continued rainging along shore to the northward for a parcel of small Islandss laying off the northern point of the Bay, and finding a channel of a Mile broad between the three outermost and those nearer the shore we push'd through. While we did this we saw on one of the nearest Islands a number of the natives collicted together who seem'd to look very attentively upon the ship, they were quite naked and of a very dark Colour with short hair. At Noon we were by observation in the Latde of 17o59' and abreast of the north point of <1Halifax Bay>1 which bore from Miles. This boundry of the bay is form'd by a tolerable high Islan known in the Chart by the name of <1Dunk Isle,>1s it lays so near the shore as not to be distinguished from it unless you are well in with the land. At this time we were in the Longitude of 213o 57' W, <1Cape Sandwich>1 bore SBE1/2E distant I9 Miles and the northermost land in sight N1/2W. Our depth of water in the Course of this days sail was not more then 16 nor less then 7 fathom. SATURDAY 9<1th.>1 Winds between the South and SE a gentle breeze and clear weather: with which we steer'd NBw as the land lay, the northern extreme of which at sun set bore N 25o West. We kept on our Course under an easy sail all night having from 12 to 15 fathom water at the distance of about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land. At 6 oClock in the AM we were abreast of some small Islands which we call'd <1Frankland>1 <1Isles>1s that lay about two Leagues from the main land the northern point of which in sight bore NBW1/2W but this we afterwards found to be an Island tolerable high and about 4 Miles in circuit.s It lies about 342] 2 Miles from the point on the Main between which we went with the Ship and were in the Middle of the Channel at Noon and by ob- servation in the Latitude of 16o55', where we had 2o fathom water. The point of land we were now abreast off I call'd <1Cape Grafton>1 (Latde 16o 55' S, Longde 214o 11' west)s it is tolerable high land and so is the whole coast for 20 Leagues to the southward and hath a very rocky surface which is thinly cover'd with wood. In the night we saw several fires along shore and a little before noon some people. SUNDAY 10<1th.>1 After hauling round <1Cape Grafton>1 we found the land trend away NwBw. Three miles to the Westward of the Cape is a Bays wherein we anchord about 2 Miles from the shore in 4 fathom water an owsey bottom. The East point of the bay bore s 74o East, the west point s 83o West and a low green woody Island laying in the offing bore N 35o East. This Island lies NBE1/2E distant 3 or 4 Legs from <1Cape Grafton,>1 and is known in the Chart by the name of <1Green>1 <1Island.>1s As soon as the Ship was brought to an Anchor I went ashore accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, the first thing I did was to look for fresh water and with that View rowed out towards the Cape because in the bottom of the Bay was low mangrove land and little probability of meeting with any there, but the way I went I found two small streames which were difficult to get at on account of the surff and rocks upon the shore. As we came round the Cape we saw in a Sandy Cove a small stream of water run over the beach, but here I did not go in the boat because I found that it would not be easy to land. We hardly advance[d] any thing into the Country, it being here hilly which were steep and rocky and we had not time to viset the low lands and therefore met with nothing remarkable. My intention was to have stay'd here at least one day to have looked into the Country had we met with fresh water convenient or any other refreshment, but as we did not I thought it would be only spending time and looseing so much of a light moon to little purpose, and there- fore at 12 oClock at night we weigh'd and stood away to the NW, having at this time but little wind attended with showers of rain. At 4 oClock the breeze freshend at SBE with fair weather. We continued [343 steering NNW1/2W as the land lay haveing 10, 12 and 14 fathom at the distance of 3 Leagues from the land. At 10 oClock we hauld off north in order to get without a small low Islands which lay about 2 Leagues from the Main; it being about high water at the time we passd it great part of it lay under water. About 3 Leagues to the north- westward of this Island close under the Main land is a nother Island tolerable highs which bore from us at Noon N 55o west distant 7 or 8 Miles, we being at this time in the latitude of 16o20' S. <1Cape Grafton>1 bore s 29o East distant 4o Miles and the northermost point of land in sight N 20o W and in this situation had 15 fathom water. The shore between <1Cape Grafton>1 and the above northern point forms a large but not very deep Bay which I named <1Trinity Bay>1 after the day on which it was discoverd, the north point <1Cape Tribulation>1 because here begun all our troubles.s Latitude 16o 6' S, Longde 214o 39' W. MONDAY 11<1th.>1 Wind at ESE with which we steer'd along shore NBW at the distance of 3 or 4 Leagues off having from 14 to 10 & 12 fm [with]s saw two small Islandss in the offing which lay in the latitude of 16o 0' S and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Main. At 6 oClock the northermost land in sight bore NBW1/2W and two low woody Islandss which some took to be rocks above water bore N1/2W. At this time we shortend sail and hauld offshore ENE and NEBE close upon a wind. My intention was to stretch off all night as well to avoid the dangers we saw ahead as to see if any Islands lay in the offing, especialy as we now begin to draw near the Latitude of those discover'd by Quiros which some Geographers, for what reason I know not have thought proper to tack to this land, having the advantage of a fine breeze of wind and a clear moonlight night. In standing off from 6 untill near 9 oClock we deepen'd our water from 14 to 21 fathom when all at once we fell into 12, 10 and 8 fathom. At this time I had everybody at their stations to put about and come too an anchor but in this I 344] was not so fortunate for meeting again with deep water I thought there could be no danger in standg on.s Before 10 oClock we had 20 and 21 fathom and continued in that depth untill a few Minutes before a 11 when we had 17 and before the Man at the lead could heave another cast the Ship Struck and stuck fast.s Emmidiatly upon this we took in all our sails hoisted out the boats and sounded round the Ship, and found that we had got upon the sE edge of a reef of Coral rocks having in some places round the Ship 3 and 4 fathom water and in other places not quite as many feet, and about a Ships length from us on our starboard side (the ship laying with her head to the NE) were 8, 10 and 12 fathom. As soon as the long boat was out we struck yards and Topmts and carried out the stream Anchor upon the starboard bow, got the Costing anchor and cable into the boat and were going to carry it out the same way; but upon my sounding the second time round the Ship I found the most water a stern, and therefore had this anchor carried out upon the Starboard quarter and hove upon it a very great strean which was to no purpose the Ship being quite fast, upon which we went to work to lighten her as fast as possible which seem'd to be the only means we had left to get her off as we went a Shore about the top of high-water. We not only started water but throw'd over board our guns Iron and stone ballast Casks, Hoops staves oyle Jars, decay'd stores &ca, many of these last articles lay in the way at coming at heavyer.s All this time the Ship made little or no water. At a 11 oClock in the AM being high-water as we thought we try'd to heave her off without success, she not being a float by a foot or more notwithstanding by this time we had thrown over board 4o or 5o Tun weight; as this was not found sufficient we continued to Lighten her by every method we could think off.s As the [345 Tide fell the Ship began to make water as much as two Pumps could free.s At Noon she lay with 3 or 4 Strakes heel to Starboard. Latitude Observed 15o 45' South. TUESDAY 12<1th.>1 Fortunatly we had little wind fine weather and a smooth Sea all these 24 hours which in the PM gave us an oppertunI-ty to carry out the two bower Anchors, the one on the Starboard quarter and the other right a stern. Got blocks and tackles upon the Cables brought the falls in abaft and hove taught. By this time it was 5 oClock in the pm, the tide we observed now begun to rise and the leak increased upon us which obliged us to set the 3rd Pump to work as we should have done the 4th also, but could not make it work. At 9 oClock the Ship righted and the leak gaind upon the Pumps considerably. This was an alarming and I may say terrible Cir- cumstance and threatend immidiate destruction to us as soon as the Ship was afloat.s However I resolved to resk all and heave her off in case it was practical and accordingly turnd as many hands to the Capstan & windlass as could be spared from the Pumps and about 20' past 10 oClock the Ship floated and we hove her off into deep water having at this time 3 feet 9 Inches water in the hold.sThis done I sent the Long boat to take up the stream anchor--got the anchor but lost the Cable among the rocks, after this turn'd all hands to the Pumps the leak increasing upon us. A Mistake soon after happened which for the first time caused fear to operate upon every man in the Ship. The man which attend[ed] the well took ye depth of water above the ceiling, he being relieved by another who did not know in what manner the former had sounded, took the depth of water from the out side plank, the difference being 16 or 18 Inches and made it appear that the leak had gain'd this upon the pumps in a 346] short time, this mistake was no sooner clear'd up than [it] acted upon every man like a charm; they redoubled their Vigour in so much that before 8 oClock in the Morning they gain'd considerably upon the leak.s We now hove up the best bower but found it impossible to save the small bower so cut it away at a whole Cable. Got up the fore topmast and fore yard, warped the Ship to the SE and at a 11 got under Sail and Stood in for the land with a light breeze at ESE, some hands employ'd sowing ockam wool &ca into a lower Studding sail to fother the Ship, others emplo'd at the Pumps which still gain'd upon the leak. WEDNESDAY 13<1th.>1 In the PM had light airs at ESE with which we kept edgeing in for the land, got up the Main topmast and Main yard and having got the sail ready for fothering the Ship we put it over under the Starboard fore chains where we suspected the Ship had sufferd most and soon after the leak decreased so as to be kept clear with one Pump with ease, this fortunate circumstance gave new life to every one on board. It is much easier to conceive then to discribe the satisfaction felt by every body on this occation, but a few minutes before our utmost wishes were to get hold of some place upon the Main or an Island to run the Ship ashore where out of her Materials we might build a vessel to carry us to the East Indias; no sooner were we made sensible that the outward application to the Ships bottom had taken effect than the feild of every mans hopes inlarged so that we now thought of nothing but rainging along shore in search of a harbour where we could repair the damages we had susstaind.s In justice to the Ships Company I must say that no men ever behaved better than they have done on this occasion, animated by the beheavour of every gentleman on board,s every man seem'd to have a just sence of the danger we were in and exerted himself to the very utmost. The Ledge of rocks or Shoal we have been upon lies in the Latde of 15o 45' and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Main land, but this is not the only shoal that lay upon this part of the Coast especialy to the northward, and one which we now saw to the Southward the tail of which we past over when we had the uneven soundings two hours before we Struck; a part of this shoal is always above water and looks [347 to be white sand. Part of the one [we] were upon drys at low-water and in that place consists of Sand and stones but every where else coral rocks.s At 6 oClock we Anchor'd in 17 fathom water about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land and one from the Shoal. At this time the Ship made about 15 Inches water pr hour. At 6 oClock in the AM we weigh'd and stood to the Nw edging in for the land having a gentle breeze at ssE. At 9 oClock we past close without two small low Islands laying in the latitude of 15o41' and about 4 Leagues from the Main. I have named them <1Hope Islands>1 because we were always in hopes of being able to reach these Islands.s At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the land and in the latitude of 15o 37' South, the northermost part of the Main in sight bore N 3o west and the above Islands extending from S 30o E to South 40s E, in this situation had 12 fathoms water and severl Sand Banks without us. The leak now decreaseth but for fear it should break out again we got the Sail ready fill'd for fothering. The manner this is done is thus, we Mix ockam & wool together (but ockam alone would do) and chop it up small and than stick it loosly by handfulls all over the sail and throw over it sheeps dung or other filth. Horse dung for this purpose is the best. The sail thus prepared is hauld under the Ships bottom by ropes and if the place of the leak is un- certain it must be hauld from one part of her bottom to a nother untill the place is founds where it takes effect; while the sail is under the Ship the ockam &ca is washed off and part of it carried along with the water into the leak and in part stops up the hole. Mr Munkhouse one of my Midshipmen was once in a Merchant ship which sprung a leak and made 48 inches water per hour but by this means was brought home from Virginia to London with only her proper crew, to him I gave the deriction ofthis who exicuted it very much to my satisfaction.s THURSDAY 14<1th>1.s In the PM had a gentle breeze at SEBE. Sent the 348] Master with two boats as well to sound ahead of the Ship as to look out for a harbour where we could repair our defects and put the Ship into a proper trim both of which she now very much wanted.--At 3 oClock saw an opening that had the appearence of a harbour.s Stood off and on while the boats were examining it who found that there was not a sufficient depth of water for the Ship. By this time it was almost sun set and seeing many shoals about us we anchord in 4 fathom water about 2 Miles from the shore the Mainland extending from N1/2E to SBE1/2E. At 8 oClock the Pinnace in which was one of the Mates return'd on board and reported that they had found a good harbour about 2 Leagues to leeward. In concequence of this in- formation we at 6 in the AM weighd and run down to it, first sending two boats ahead to lay upon the Shoals that lay in our way and notwithstanding this precaution we were once in 3 fathom water with the Ship; having pass'd these shoals the boats were sent to lay in the C[h]annel leading into the harbour. By this time it begun to blow in so much that the Ship would not work having miss'd stays twice, and being intangled among shoals I was afraid of being drove to leeward before the boats could place themselves, and therefore Anchor'd in 4 fathom about a Mile from the shore and than made the signal for the boats to come on board, after which I went my self and buoy'd the Channel which I found very narrow and the harbour much smaller than I had been told but very convenient for our purpose. At Noon Latitude observed 15o26' South. FRIDAY 15<1th>1. A fresh gale at SE and Clowdy weather attended with showers of rain in the night. As it blowed too fresh to break the Ship loose to run into the harbour we got down topgallant yards, unbent the Main sail and some of the small Sails, got down the Fore topgt Mast and the Jibb boom and spritsail yard in, intending to lighten the Ship forward as much as possible in order to lay her ashore to come at the leak.s SATURDAY 16<1th>1. Strong gales at sE and Clowdy hazey weather with showers of rain. At 6 oClock in the AM it moderated a little and we hove short intending to get under sail, but was obliged to desist and bears away again. Some People were seen ashore to day. SUNDAY 17<1th.>1 Most part strong gales at SE with some heavy showers of rain in the PM. At 6 in the AM being pretty moderate we weigh'd and run in to the Harbour in doing of which we run the Ship a shore [349 twice, the first time she went off without any trouble but the second lime She stuck fast,s but this was of no concequence any farther then giving us a little trouble and was no more than what I expected as we had the wind. While the Ship lay fast we got down the fore yard Fore topmast booms &ca over board and made a raft of them along side. MONDAY 18<1th>1. Fresh gales and clowdy with showers of rain. At I PM the Ship floated and we warped her into the harbour and moor'd her along side of a Steep beach on the south side.s Got the anchors Cables and All the Hawsers a shore. In the AM made a stage from the Ship to the shore; errected two tents one for the Sick and the other for the Stores and Provisions; landed all the empty casks and part of the Provisions; and sent a boat to haul the sene whos return'd without success. TUESDAY 19<1th>1. Fresh gales at sE and clowdy weather with frequent showers of rain. In the PM landed all the provisions and part of the stores; got the sick a Shore which amounted at this time to 8 or 9 afflicted with different disorders but none very dangerously ill.s This afternoon I went upon one of the highest hill[s] over the harbour from which I had a perfect View of the inlet or River and adjacent country which afforded but a very indifferent prospect, the low lands near the Rivers is all over run with mangroves among which the salt water flowes every tide and the high land appear'd to be barren and stoney. In the AM got the 4 remaining guns out of the hold and Mounted them on the quarter deck. Got a spare anchor and anchor stock a shore and the remaining part of the stores and ballast that were in the hold. Set up the smiths forge and set the Armourer and his mate to work to make nails &ca to repair the Ship. WEDNESDAY 20<1th>1. Winds at sE a fresh breeze, fore & Middle parts rainy the latter fair. This day got out all the officers stores and the 350] ground tier of water having now nothing in the Fore and Main hold but the Coals and a little stone ballast.s THURSDAY 21<1st.>1 In the PM landed the Powder, got out the stone ballast wood &ca which brought the Ships draught of water to 8s 10s forward and 13 feet abaft; this I thought by triming the Coals aft wou'd be sufficient as I find the tides will rise and fall upon a per- pendicular 8 feet at spring tides, but after the coals was trim'd away from over the leak we could hear the water come gushing in a little abaft the fore mast & about 3 feet from her keel; this determined me to clear the hold intirely. Accordingly very early in the morning we went to work to get out the Coals which was employment for all hands. FRIDAY 22<1d>1. Winds at SE fair weather. At 4 In the PM having got out most of the Coals, cast loose the moorings and warped the Ship a little higher up the harbour to a place I had pitched upon to lay a Shore for stoping the leak, her draughts of Water forward 7 feet 9 Inches and abaft 13 feet 6 Inches. At 8 being high water hauld her bow close a shore but kept her stern a float because I was afraid of neepings her, and yet it was necessary to lay the whole of her as near the ground as possible. At 2 oClock in the AM the tide left her which gave us an oppertunity to examine the leak which we found to be at her floor heads a little before the Starboard fore chains.s Here the rocks had made their way thro' four Planks quite to and even into the timbers and wound'd three more. The manner these planks were damaged or cut out as I may say is hardly credable,s scarce a splinter was to be seen but the whole was cut away as if it had been done by the hands of Man with a blunt edge tool. Fortunatly for us the timbers in this place were very close, other ways it would have been impossible to have saved the ship and even as it was it appear'd very extraordinary that she made no more water than what she did. A large piece of Coral rocks was sticking in one hole and several pieces of the fothering, small stones, sand &ca had made its way in and [351 lodged between the timbers which had stoped the water from forceing its way in in great quantities. Part of the sheathing was gone from under the larboard bow, part of the false keel was gone and the remainder in such a shatter'd condition that we should be much better of, was it gone also; her fore foot and some part of her Main keel was also damaged but not materialy, what damage she may have re- ceived abaft we could not see but beleive not much as the Ship makes but little water while the tide keeps below the leak forward. At 9 oClock the Carpenters went to work upon the Ship while the Smiths were busy makeing bolts nails &ca.s SATURDAY 23<1d>1. Winds south easterly a fresh gale and fair weather. Carpenters empd shifting the damaged Planks as long as the tide would permit them to work. At low water in the PM we examined the Ships bottom under the starboard side she being dry as far aft as the after part of the fore chains, we could not find that she had received any other damage on this side but what has been mentioned. In the Morning I sent 3 Men into the Country to shoot Pigeonss as some few of these birds had been seen flying about, in the evening they re- turnd with about half a dozen; one of the men saw an animal something less than a grey hound, it was of a Mouse Colour very slender rnade and swift of foot.s In the AM I sent a boat to haul the same who return'd at Noon having made three hauls and caught only three fish, and yet we see plentysjumping about the harbour but can find no method of catching them. SUNDAY 24<1th>1. Winds and weather as yesterday. In the PM the Carpenters finish'd the Starboard side and at 9 oClock heel'd the Ship the other way and hauld her off about 2 feet for fear of neeping. In the AM they went to work upon repairing the sheathing under the larboard bow where we found two planks cut about half thro'. Early in the morning I sent a party of men into the Country under the direction of Mr Gore to seek for refreshments, they returnd about noon with a few Palm Cabbages and a bunch or two of wild Plantains, these last were much smaller then any I had ever seen and the Pulp full of small stones otherwise they were well taisted. I saw my self this morning a little way from the ship one of the Animals before spoke off, it was of a light Mouse colour and the full size of a 352] grey hound and shaped in every respect like one, with a long tail which it carried like a grey hound, in short I should have taken it for a wild dog,s but for its walking or runing in which itjumped like a Hare or a dear; Another of them was seen to day by some of our people who saw the first, they describe them as having very small legs and the print of the foot like that of a goat, but this I could not see my self because the ground the one I saw was upon was too hard and the length of the grass hinderd my seeing its legs.s MONDAY 25<1th>1. At low-water in the PM while the Carpenters were busey in repairing the sheathing and plank under the larboard bow I got people to go under the ships bottom to examine all her larboard side, she only being dry forward but abaft were 9 feet water. They found part of the sheathing off abreast of the Main mast about her floor heads and a part of one plank a little damaged. There were three people who went down who all agree'd in the same story, the master was one who was positive that she had received no material damage besides the loss of the sheathing. This alone will be sufficient to let the worm into her bottom which may prove of bad concequence; however we must run all resk for I know of no method to remedy this but by heaving her down which would be a work of emince labour & time, if not impractical in our present situation. The Carpenters continued hard at work under her bottom untill put offby the tide in the eveng, and the morning tide did not ebb out far enough to permit them to work,s for here we have only one tolerable low and high tide in 24 hours. In the AM a party of men were empd ashore filling water while others were employ'd in overhauling the rigging. TUESDAY 26<1th>1. Fair weather winds a[t] S, a fresh gale. At low-water in the pm the Carpenters finished under the larboard bow and every other place the tide would permit them to come at. Lashed some Casks under the Ships bows in order to help to float her and at High-water in the night Attempted to heave her off but could not, she not being a float partly owing to some of the Casks not holding that were lash'd under her. In the AM employ'd geting more Casks [353 ready for the same purpose; but I am much afraid that we shall not be able to float her now the tides are takeing off. WEDNESDAY 27<1th>1. Winds at sE a fresh breeze and Clowdy weather In the pM lashed 38 empty Butts under the ships bottom in order to float her off which proved ineffectual and therefore gave over all hopes of geting her off untill the next spring tides. At day light got a consider[able] weight of sundry articles from aft forward to ease the ship. The Armourers at work at the Forge repairing Iron work &ca, Carpenters caulking the Ship and stocking one of the spare anchors, Seamen employd filling water and overhauling the riging; and I went in the Pinnace up the harbour and made several hauls with the Sain but caught only between 20 and 30 lb of fish which were given to the sick and such as were weak and ailing. THURSDAY 28<1th>1. Fresh breezes and Cloudy; all hands employ'd as yesterday.s FRIDAY 29<1th>1. Winds and weather as yesterday and the Employment of the people the same. Lieutenant Gore having been 4 or 5 Miles in the Country where he met with nothing remarkable, he saw the foot steps of Men and likewise those of 3 or 4 sorts of wild beasts but saw neither man nor beast; some others of our people who were out yesterday on the north side of the River met with a place where the natives had just been, as there fires we[re] stills burning but they saw no body nor have we seen one sence we have been in Port. In these excursions we found some wild Yamms or Coccos growing in the swampy grounds and this afternoon I sent a party of men to gather some, the tops we found made good greens and eat exceeding well when boild but the roots were so Acrids that few besides my self could eat them. This night Mr Green and I observed an Emersion of jupiter first Satellite which happen'd at 2h58'53" in the AM, the same Emersion happend at Greenwich according to calculation on the 30th at 5h 17'43" in the PM; the difference is 14h 18'50" equal to 214o 42'30" of Longitude which this place is west of Greenwich,s and its Latitude is 15o 26' South. In the AM I sent some hands with a boat up the River to haul the sain while the rest were employ'd about the rigging and sundry other duties. SATURDAY 30<1th>1. Moderate breezes at sE and clear serene weather. In the PM the Boat returnd from hauling the sain having caught as 354] many fish as came to a pound and a half a man. In the AM I sent her again to haul the Sain and some hands to gather greens while others were employ'd about the rigging &ca &ca. I likewise sent some of the young gentlemen to take a Plan of the harbour and went my self upon the hill which is over the south points to take a view of the Sea, at this time it was low-water and I saw what gave me no small uneasiness which were a number of Sand banks or shoals laying all along the coast; the innermost lay about 3 or 4 Miles from the shore and the outermost extend[ed] off to sea as far as I could see with my glass, some just appeard above water. The only hopes I have of geting clear of them is to the northward where there seems to be a passage for as the winds blowe constantly from the sE we shall find it difficult if not impractical to return back to the southward.s [JULY 1770] SUNDAY 1<1st.>1 Gentle breezes at SE and clowdy weather with some gentle showers in the morning. In the PM the People returnd from hauling the Sain having caught as much fish as came to 21/2 pound a Man, no one on board having more than another, the few greens we got I cause[d] to be boild a mong the Pease and makes a very good mess, which together with the fish is a great refreshment to the people. In the AM a party of men (one from each mess) went again afishing and all the rest I gave leave to go into the Country knowing that there was no danger from the natives. To day at noon the Thermometer in the shade ris to 87o which is two or three degrees higher then it has been on any day before.s MONDAY 2d. Do Weather. In the PM the fishing party caught as much fish as came to 2 pound a man, those that were in the Country met with nothing new. Early in the AM I sent the Master in the Pinnace out of the Harbour to Sound about the Shoals in the offening and to look for a Channel to the northward. At this time we had a breeze of wind from the land which continued till about 9 oClock, what makes me mention this is because it is the first land breeze we have had sence we have been in this River. At low-water lashed some empty Casks under the Ships bows being in some hopes of floating her the next high-water and sent some hands afishing while others were employ'd in refiting the Ship. [355 TUESDAY 3<1rd.>1 Winds at SE, fore and middle parts a gentle breeze the remainder a fresh gale. In the evening the fishing party returnd having got as much fish as came to 2 lb a man; at High-water Attempted to heave the Ship off but did not succeed. At Noon the Master returnd and reported that he had found a passage out to sea between the shoals which passage lies out ENE or EBN from the Rivers mouth, he found these shoals to consist of Coral rocks; he landed upon one which drys at low-water where he found very large cockless and a variety of other shell fish a quantity of which he brought away with him. He told me that he was 5 Leagues out at sea having at that distance ofs 21 fathom water and judged him self to be without all the shoals, which I very much doubted; after this he came in shore and stood to the northward where he met with a number of shoals laying a little distance from the shore, about 9 oClock in the evening he landed in a bay about 3 Leagues to the northward of this places where he disturbed some of the natives whome he supposed to be at supper; they all fled upon his approach and left him some fresh Sea Eggs and a fire ready lighted behind them, but there was neither house or hut near. Altho these Shoals lay within sight of the coast and abound very much with shell fish and other small fish which are to be caught at low-water in holes in the rocks, yet the natives never visit them for if they did we must have seen of these large shells on shore about their fire places, the reason I do suppose is that they have no boats that they dare venture so far out at Sea in. WEDNESDAY 4<1th.>1 St[r]ong gales at sE and fair weather. In the PM the fishing party returnd with the usual success. At High-water hove the Ship a float. In the AM Employ'd triming her upon an even keel intending to lay her a shore once more to try to come at her bottom under the larboard Main chains. THURSDAY 5<1th.>1 Strong breezes at sE and fair weather. In the PM warped the ship over and at high-water laid her a shore on the sand bank on the south side of the Rivers for I was afraid to lay her broad side to the shore where she lay before because the ground lies with too great a decent and she hath already received some damage by laying there these last neep tides, at least she still makes water. 356] FRIDAY 6<1th.>1 Do Weather. At low water in the PM had hardly 4 feet water under the ship yet could not repair the sheathing that was beat off the place being all under water. One of the Carpenters crew, a Man I could trust, went down and examined it and found three streaks of the sheathing gone about 7 or 8 feet long and the Main plank a little rub'd: this accou[n]ts agrees with the report of the Master and others that were under her bottom before. The Car- penter who I look upon to be well skilld in his profission and a good judge of these matters was of opinion that this was of little conce- quence, and as I found that it would be difficult if not impractical for us to get under her bottom to repair it I resolved to spend no more time about it. Accordingly at High-water hove her off and Moor'd her along side the beach where the stores &ca lay and in the AM got everything in readiness for takeing them on board, and at the same time got on board 8 tuns of water and stowed in the ground tier in the after hold. In the Morning Mr Banks and Lieutt Gore with three men went in a small boat up the River with a view to stay two or 3 days to try to kill some of the animals we have so often seen about this place. SATURDAY 7<1th.>1 Fresh breezes at SE and fair weather. Employ'd geting on board Coals ballast &ca and caulking the Ship, a work that could not be done while she lay aground. The Armourer and his mate are still at work at the forge making and repairing sundry articles in the Iron way. SUNDAY 8<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at sE and clear weather. Early I sent the Master in a boat out to sea to sound again about the shoals because the account he had given of the Channell before mentioned was to me by no means satisfactory, like wise sent some hands to haul the sain who caught near 8o pound of fish, the rest of the people I gave leave to go into the country. MONDAY 9<1th.>1 Gentle breezes in the day at SE and in the night calm. In the PM Mr Gore and Mr Banks returnd having met with nothing remarkable, they were about 3 or 4 Leags up in the country without finding hardly any Variation either in the soil or produce.s In the evening the Master returnd having been seven Leagues out at sea and at that distance off saw shoals without him and was of opinion that there was no geting out to sea that way. In his return he touched upon one of the shoals the same as he was upon the first time he was out, here he saw a great number of turtle three of which he caught [357 weighing 791 pounds.s This occasioned my sending him out again this morning provided with proper geer for strikeing them he having before nothing but a boat hook. Carpenters smiths and Coopers at their respective employments and the seamn employ'd geting on board stone ballast. This day all hands feasted upon turtle for the first time. TUESDAY 10<1th.>1 Winds and weather as yesterday. Employ'd hoisting on board and stowing away the ground tier of water. In the PM saw Seven or eight of the Natives on the South side of the River and two of them came down upon the sandy point opposite the ship but as soon as I put offin a boat in order to speak with them they run away as fast as they could. At 11 oClock Mr Banks, who had gone out to sea with Mr Molineux the Master, returnd in his own small boat and gave but a very bad account of our turtle catchers. At the time he left them which was about 6 oClock they had not got one nor were they likely to get any, and yet the Master was so obstinate that he would not return; which obliged me to send Mr Gore out in the yawl this mor[n]ing to order the boat and people in, in case they could not be imploy'd there to some advantage. In the AM 4 of the natives came down to the sandy point on the north side of the harbour having along with them a small wooden Canoe with outriggers in which they seemd to be employ'd striking fish &ca. Some were for going over in a boat to them but this I would not suffer but let them alone without seeming to take any notice of them, at length two came in the Canoe so near the Ship as to take some things we throw'd them, after this they went away and brought over the other two and came again along side nearer then they had done before and took such trifles as we gave them. After this they landed close to the Ship and all 4 went a shore carrying their arms with them, but Tupia soon prevaild upon them to lay down their arms and come and set down by him, after which more of us went to them, made them again some presents and stay'd by them untill 358] dinner time, when we made them understand that we were going to eat and ask'd them by signs to go with us, but this they declined and as soon as we left them they went away in their canoe. One of these men was some thing above the Middle age, the other three were young, none of them were above 51/2 feet high and all their limbs propor- tionaly small; they where wholy naked their skins the Colour of wood soot or a dark chocolates and this seem'd to be their natural Colour, their hair was black, lank and crope'd short and neither wooly nor frizled nor did they want any of their fore teeth, as Dampier has mentioned those did he saw on the western side of this Country.s Some part of their bodies had been painted with red and one of them had his uper lip and breast paint[ed] with streakes of white which he call'd <1Carbanda:>1s their features were far from being disagreeable, the Voices were soft and tunable and they could easily repeat many words after us, but neither us nor Tupia could understand one word they said. WEDNESDAY 11<1th.>1 Gentle land and sea breezes. Employ'd airing the bread,s stowing away water stores &ca. In the night Mr Gore and the Master returnd with the long-boat and brought with them one turtle and a few shell fish, the Yawl Mr Gore left upon the shoal with Six men to endeavour to Strike more turtle. In the morning four of the natives made us another short visit, 3 of them had been with us the preceeding day and the other was a stranger. One of these men had a hole through the Bridge of his nose in which he stuck a piece of bone as thick as my finger, seeing this we examined all their noses and found that they had all holes for the same purpose, they had likewise holes in their ears but no ornaments hanging to them, they had bracelets upon their arms made of hair and like hoops of small cord; they some times must wear a kind of fillet about their heads for one of [359 them had applied some part of an Old shirt I had given them to this use. THURSDAY 12<1th>1. Winds and weather as yesterday and the employ- ment of the people the same. At 2 oClock in the AM the Yawl came on board and brought three turtle and a large skeats and as their was a probabillity of succeeding in this kind of fishery I sent her out again after breakfast. About this time 5 of the natives came over and stay'd with us all the forenoon, there were 7 in the whole 5 Men a woman and a boy, these two last stay'd on the point of sand on the other side of the River about 200 Yards from us, we could very clearly see with our glasses that the woman was as naked as ever she was born, even those parts which I allways before now thought nature would have taught a woman to conceal were uncover'd. FRIDAY 13<1th>1. Gentle breezes from the SE in the day and Calm or light airs from the land in the night. Employ'd takeing on board water stores &ca. At noon the Yawl returnd with one turtle and a large sting-ray.s SATURDAY 14<1th>1. Gentle breezes at sE and Hazey weather. In the PM compleated our water got on board all the Bread and part of the Boatswainss stores; in the evening sent the turtlers out again. In the AM employd geting on board stone ballast and airing the Spare sails. Mr Gore being out in the Country shott one of the Animals before spoke of, it was a small one of the sort weighing only 28 pound clear of the entrails.s The head neck and shoulders of this Animal was very small in proportion to the other parts; the tail was nearly as long as the body, thick next the rump and tapering towards the end; the fore legs were 8 Inch long and the hind 22, its progression is by hoping orjumping 7 or 8 feet at each hops upon its hind legs only, for in this it makes no use of the fore, which seem to be only design'd for scratch- ing in the ground &ca. The Skin is cover'd with a short hairy fur of a dark Mouse or Grey Colour. Excepting the head and ears which I thought was something like a Hare's, it bears no sort of resemblance to any European Animal I ever saw; it is said to bear much re- semblance to the Gerbua excepting in size, the Gerbua being no larger than a common rat.s 360] SUNDAY 15<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at sE and East. In the PM got on board the spare sails and sundry other Articles. In the AM as the People did not work upon the Ship one of the Petty officers was disireous of going out to catch turtle; I let him have the Pinnace for that pur- pose and sent the long boat to haul the Sain who caught about 6o pounds of fish. Today we din'd of the animal shott yesterday & thought it excellent food.s MONDAY 16<1th.>1 Fore and latter parts gentle breezes at ENE, in the night had light airs & Calm. In the Evening the yawl came in with 4 turtle and a large sting-ray and soon after went out again but the Pinnace did not return as I expected. In the AM employ'd geting on board the Cables. At the same time I went upon one of the high hill[s] on the north side of the River from which I had an extensive view of the inland country which consisted of hills vallies and large planes agreeably deversified with woods and lawns. TUESDAY 17<1th.>1 Wind at SE a fresh breeze. People employ'd as yesterday and seting up the rigging. In the evening the Pinnace returnd with three turtle, two of which the Yawl caught and sent in. At 7h 41'17" PM Observed the first Satillite ofJupiter to Emerge; the same Emersion happen'd at Greenwich at 10h 00'52" in the AM, the difference is 14o 19'35" = to 214o 53'45" of Longitude.s The observation made on the 29th of last month gave 214o 42'30", the mean is 214o 48'71/2" which this place is west of Greenwich. WEDNESDAY 18<1th.>1 Winds at ESE a gentle breeze. In the PM I sent the Master and one of the mates in the Pinnace to the northward to look for a Channell that way clear of the shoals. Mr Banks, Dr Solander and my self took a turn into the woods on the other side of the water where we met with five of the natives and altho we had not seen any of them before they came to us without shewing the least signs of fear, two of these wore necklaces made of shells which they seem'd to Value as they would not part with them. In the evening the yawl came in with three turtle and early in the AM she went out again. About 8 oClock we were viseted by several of the natives who now became more familiar then ever. Soon after this Mr Banks and I went over to the souths side of the River and travel'd six or 8 Miles along shore to the northward, where we assended a high hill from [361 whence we had an extensive view of the Sea Coast to leward; [which] afforded us a Meloncholy prospect of the difficultys we are [to] incounter, for in what ever direction we turn'd our eys Shoals inum[erable] were to be seen.s After this we return'd to the ShI-p without meeting with any thing remarkable and found several of the natives on board; at this time we had 12 Turtles upon our decks which they took more notice of then any thing else in the ship, as I was told by the officers for their curiosity was satisfied before I got on board and they went away soon after. THURSDAY 19<1th>1. Gentle breezes at SE and fair weather. Employ'd geting every thing in readiness for sea. In the AM we were viseted by 10 or 11 of the natives, the most of them came from the other side of the River where we saw six or seven more the most of them women and like the men quite naked; those that came on board were very desirous of having some of our turtle and took the liberty to haul two to the gang way to put over the side, being disapointed in this they grew a little troublesome and were for throwing every thing over board they could lay their hands upon; as we had no victuals dress'd at this time I offer'd them some bread to eat, which they rejected with scorn as I believe they would have done any thing else excepting turtle. Soon after this they all went a shore, Mr Banks my self and five or six of our people being a shore at the same time; emmidiatly upon their landing one ofthem took a handfull of dry grass and lighted it at a fire we had a shore, and before we well know'd what he was going about he made a large circuit round about us and set fire to the grass in his way and in an Instant the whole place was in flames, luckily at this time we had hardly any thing ashore besides the forge and a sow with a Litter of young pigs one of which was scorched to death in the fire. As soon as they had done this they all went to a place where some of our people were washing and where all our nets and a good deal of linnen were laid out to dry, here with the greatest obstinacys they again set fire to the grass which I and some others who were present could not prevent, untill I was obliged to fire a musquet load[ed] with small shott at one of the ri[n]g leaders which sent them off. As we were apprised of this last attempt of theirs we got the fire out before it got head, but the first spread like wild fire in the woods 362] and grass. Notwithstanding my fireing, in which one must have been a little hurt because we saw a few drops of blood on some of the linnen he had gone over, they did not go far from us for we soon after heard their Voices in the woods; upon which Mr Banks and I and 3 or 4 More went to look for them and very soon met them comeing towards us. As they had each 4 or 5 darts a piece and not knowing their intention we seized upon six or seven of the first darts we met with, this alarmed them so much that they all made off and we followd them for near half a Mile and than set down and call'd to them and they stoped also; after some little unintelligible conversa- tion had pass'd they lay down their darts and came to us in a very friendly manner; we now returnd the darts we had taken from them which reconciled every thing. There were 4 strangers among them that we had not seen before and these were interduced to us by name by the others: the man which we suppos'd to have been struck with small shott was gone off but he could not be much hurt as he was at a great distance when I fired. They all came along with us abreast of the ship where they stay'd a short time and then went away, and soon after set the woods on fire about a Mile and a half ands two miles from us. FRIDAY 20<1th>1. Fresh breezes at sE and fair weather. In the PM got every thing on board the Ship, new birth'd her and let her swing with the tide. In the night the Master return'd with the Pinnace and reported that there was no safe passage for the Ship to the northward. At low-water in the AM I went and sounded and buoy'd the bar, being now ready to put to sea the first oppertunity. SATURDAY 21<1st.>1 Strong breezes at sE and Clowdy weather. In the PM sent a boat to haul the sain which return'd with as much fish as came to 13/4 lb a man. The yawl return'd with only one turtle which was caught in the nett for it blew too hard for the boat to strike any. In the morning I sent her out again but she was obliged to return not being able to get to windward. Carpenters employ'd in repairing the boats and overhauling the pumps and as the wind would not permit us to sail I sent the boatswain with some hands a shore makeings rope and a petty officer with two men to gather greens for the Ships company. SUNDAY 22<1d>1. Fresh breezes at SE and ESE. Employ'd as yesterday. In the AM as the wind would not permit us to sail I sent the yawl out to catch turtle;sin opening one to day we found sticking thro' both [363 shoulder bones a wooden harpoon or turtle peg 15 Inches long bearbeds at the end such as we have seen among the natives, this proves to a demonstration that they strike turtle I suppose at the time they come aShore to lay their Eggs for they certainly have no boat fit to do this at sea or that will carry a turtle and this harpoon must have been a good while in as the wound was quite heald up. MONDAY 23<1rd>1. Fresh breezes in the sE quarter which so long as it continues will confine us in port. Yesterday in the AM I sent some people into the Country to gather greens, one of which straggle'd from the rest and met with four of the natives by a fire on which they were broiling a fowl and the hind leg of one of the animals before spoke of, he had prescience of mind not to run from them (being unarm'd) least they should persue him, but went and sit down by them and after he had sit a little while and they had felt his hands and other parts of his body they suffer'd him to go away without offering the least insult, and perceiving that he did not go right for the ship they directed him which way he should go.s TUESDAY 24<1th>1. Winds and weather continues the same. Employ'd makeing rope, caulking the Ship, fishing &ca. WEDNESDAY 25<1th>1. Fresh gales at sE and fair weather. In the evening the yawl came in having not been able to strike one turtle on account of the blowing weather nor can we catch much fish with the sain in the harbour.s THURSDAY 26<1th>1. Winds and weather as yesterday Such people as can be spared from the necessary duties of the Ship are empd fishing and gat[h]ering greens and other refreshments. FRIDAY 27<1th>1. Very fresh gales at sEBs and fair weather. In the AM caught in the sain as much fish as came tos3/4 lb a man and Mr Gore shott one of the Animals before spoke of which weighed 8o lb and 54 exclusive of the entrails, skin and head, this was as large as the most we have seen.s 364] SATURDAY 28<1th.>1 Winds and weather as above without the least variation the whole of this 24 hours. The Carpenters finished caulking the Ship. SUNDAY 29<1th>1. Winds at sE a fresh breeze untill 5 AM at which time it fell Calm and soon after had a light breeze from the land; upon this I sent a boat to see what water was upon the bar (it being 2 hours ebb) and hove up the Anchor in order to put to sea, but upon the return of the boat came too again as there were only I3 feet water upon the bar which was 6 Inches less water then what the Ship draw'd. After this I sent the Yawl to look for turtle as those we had got before were nearly all expended; about 8 oClock the sea breeze set in again which put an end to our sailing this day after which I sent the Pinnace to haul the sain who returnd with only 2o pounds of fish. MONDAY 30<1th>1. Winds at SE a fresh gale and fair weather in the PM, the remainder hazey with rain but the winds tho more moderate kept in the SE quarter. TUESDAY 31<1st.>1 Fresh gales at SE and hazy with rain in all the PM and most part of the night. At 2 oClock in the AM I had thoughts of trying to warp the ship out of the harbour but upon my going first out in a boat I found it blow'd too fresh for such an attempt. [AUGUST 1770] WEDNESDAY 1<1st.>1 Strong gales from the sE with Squals attended with rain. In the PM the Yawl came in with two rayss which together weigh'd 265 lb, it blowed too hard all the time they were out for strikeing turtle. Carpenters employ'd in overhauling the Pumps all of which we find in a state of decay, and this the Carpenter says is owing to the sap having been left on which in time has decay'd the sound wood. One of them is quite useless and was so rotten when hoisted up as to drop to pieces, however I cannot complain of a leaky ship for the most water she makes is not quite an Inch an hour. THURSDAY 2<1nd.>1 Winds and weather as yesterday or rather more stormy. We have now no success in the Sain fishing hardly geting above 20 or 30 pound thes day. FRIDAY 3<1rd.>1 Strong breezes and hazy untill 6 oClock in the AM when it Moderated and we unmoord, hove up the anchor and began to warp out, but the Ship tailing up on the sand on the north side of the River, the Tide of Ebb makeing out and a fresh breeze seting in [365 we were obliged to desist and Moor the Ship again just within the barr.s SATURDAY 4<1th.>1 In the PM having pritty Moderate weather I order'd the Coasting anchor and Cable to be laid without the barr to be ready to warp out by, that we might not loose the least opper- tunity that might offer, fors laying in Port spends time to no purpose, consumes our provisions of which we are very short in many articles, and we have yet a long Passage to make to the East Indias through an unknown and perhaps dangerous Sea; these circumstances con- siderd makes me very anxious of geting to sea. The wind continued moderate all night and at 5 oClock in the morning when it fell c this gave us an oppertunity to warp out. About 7 we got under sail having a light air from the land which soon died away and was suc- ceeded by the Sea breeze from sEBs with which we stood offto Sea EBN, having the Pinnace a head sounding. The Yawl I sent to the Turtle bank to take up the net that was left there but as the wind freshend we got out before her, and a little after noon anchor'd in 15 fathom water Sandy bottom; for I did not think it safe to run in among the Shoals untill I had well View'd them at low-water from the Mast head, that I might be better able to judge which way to steer for as yet I had not resolved whether I should beat back to the Southward round all the shoals or seek a passage out to the Eastward or to the northrd, all of which appear'd to be equally difficult and dangerous. When at Anchor the harbour sail'd from bore s 70o West distant 41/2 or 5 Leagues; the northermost point of the Main land we had in sight which I name'd <1Cape Bedford>1s (Latde 15o 15 S,s Longitude 214o 45' W) bore N 20o West distant 31/2 Leagues, but we could see land to the NE of this Cape which made like two high Islands,s the Turtle banks bore East distant 1 Mile, Latitude by observation 15o 23' s, our depth of water in standing off from the land was from 31/2 to 15 fathom. I shall now give a short de[s]cription of the harbour 366] or River we have been in which I have named after the Ship <1Endeavour>1 <1River.>1s It is only a small bar Harbour or Creek which runs winding 3 or 4 Leagues in land, at the head of which is a small fresh water brook as I was told for I was not so high my self; but there is not water for shiping above a Mile within the bar, and this is on the norths side where the bank is so steep for near a quarter of a mile that ships may lay a float at low water so near the shore as to reach it with a stage, and is extreamly convineint for heaving a ship down; and this is all this River hath to recommend it especially for large shipping, for there is no more then 9 or 1o feet water upon the bar at low-water and 17 or 18 at high, the tide riseing and falling about 9 feet at spring tides and is high-water on the days of the new and full Moon between 9 and 10 oClock. Besides this part of the Coast is so barricaded with shoals as to make this harbour still more difficult of access. The safest way I know off to come at it is from the Southward keeping the Mainland close on board all the way, its situation may always be found by the Latitude which hath been before mentioned. Over the South point is some high lands but the north point is forme'd by a low sandy beach which extends about 3 Miles to the northward then the land is again high. The refreshments we got here were chiefly Turtle, but as we had to go five leagues out to Sea for them and had much blowing weather we were not over stock'd with this article, however what with these and the fish we caught in the Sain we had not much reason to complain considering the Country we were in. Whatever refreshment we got that would bear a division I caused to be equally divided amongest the whole compney generally by weight, the meanest person in the Ship had an equal share with my self or any one on board, and this method every commander of a Ship on such a Voyage as this ought ever to observe. We found in several places on the sandy beaches and sand Hills near the sea Purslain and beans [367 which growes on a creeping kind of a Vine,s the first we found very good when boild and the latter not to be despised and were at first very servicable to the sick, but the best greens we found here was the Tarra or Cocco tops call'd in the West Indias Indians Kale,s which grow in most Boggy places, these eat as well or better than spinnage; the roots for want of being transplanted and properly cultivated were not good yet we could have dispenced with them could we have got thems in any tolerable plenty, but having a good way to go for them it took up too much time and too many hands to gather both root and branch: the few Cabbage Palms we found here were in general small and yeilded so little Cabbage that they were not worth the looking after and this was the case with most of the fruits &ca we found in the woods. Besides the Animal which I have before mentioned called by the natives <1kangooroo>1 or <1kanguru>1 here are Wolves,s Possums,s an Animal like a ratt,s and snakes both of the Venomous and other sorts. Tame Animals here are none except Dogss and of these we never saw but one who frequently came about our tents to pick up bones &ca. The Kangura are in the greatest number for we seldom went into the Country without seeing some. The Land fowls we met with here which are far from being numerous were Crow, Kites, Hawks, Cockadores of two sorts the one white and the other brown,s very beautifull Lorryquets of two or three sorts, Pidgions, Doves and a fews other sorts of small birds. The Sea or water fowl are Herns, Whisling Ducks, which pearch and I beleive roost on trees, Curlews &ca and not many of these neither. Some of our gentle- men who were in the Country heard and saw wild Geese in the night.s 368] The Country as far as I could see is deversified with Hills and Plains and these with Woods and Lawns. The soil of the Hills is hard dry and very stoney yet it produ[c]eth a thin Course grass and some wood; the soil of the Plains and Vallies is sandy and in some places Clay and in many parts very Rocky and stoney as well as the hills, but in general the land is pretty well clothed with long grass, wood, shrubs &ca. The whole country abounds with an immence number of Aunt hillss some of which are 6 or 8 feet high and more then doubles that in circuit. Here are but few sorts of trees beside the Gum tree which is the most numerous and is the same as we found on the Southern part of the Coast, only here they do not grow near so large. On each side of the River all the way up its are Mangroves which extend in some places a Mile from its banks. The Country in general is not badly water'd there being several fine Rivulets at no very great distance from one another, but none near to the place where we lay, at least not in the Dry season which is at this time, however we were very well supply' d with water by Springs which were not far off. SUNDAY 5<1th.>1 In the PM had a gentle breeze at SE and clear weather. As I did not intend to weigh untill the Morning I sent all the boats to the reef to get what Turtle and shell fish they could. At low-water from the Mast head I took a View of the shoals and could see several laying a long way without this one, a part of several of them appearing above water, but as it appear'd pretty clear of Shoals to the NE of the turtle reef, I came to a resolution to stretch out that way close upon a wind, because if we found no passage we could always return back the way we went. In the evening the boats returnd with one turtle a sting-ray and as many large Clams as came to one and a half pound a man, in each of these Clams were about two pounds of meat, ad[d]ed to this we caught in the night several Sharks. Early in the morning I sent the Pinnace and Yawl again to the reef as I did not intend to wiegh untill half Ebb at which time the shoals began to appear, before 8 oClock it came on to blow and I made the signal for the boats to come on board which they did and brought with them [369 one turtle. We afterwards began to heave, but the wind freshing obliged us to bear away agains and lay fast. MONDAY 6<1th.>1 Winds at SE. At 2 oClock in the PM it fell pretty moderate and we got under sail and stood out upon a wind NEBE having the Turtle Reef to windward, having the Pinnace ahead sounding. We had not stood out long before we discover'd shoals ahead and on both bows. At half past 4 oClock having run off 8 Miles the Pinnace made the Signal for shoal water in a place where we little expected it, upon this we tack'd and stood on and off while the Pinnace stretched farther to the Eastward, but as night was approaching I thought it safest to anchor which we accordingly did in 2o fathom water a muddy bottom. <1Endeavour River>1 bore s 52o West, <1Cape Bedford>1 WBN1/2N distant 5 Leagues, the northermost land in sight which made like an Island North, and a shoal a small sandy part of which appear'd above water bore NE distant 2 or 3 Miles. In standing off from the Turtle Reef to this place our soundings were from 14 to 20 fathoms, but where the Pinnace was about a Mile farther to the ENE were no more then 4 or 5 feet water rocky ground, and yet this did not appear to us in the Ship. In the morning we had a strong gale from the sE, that instead of weighing as we intended we were obliged to bear away more Cable and to strike topgallant yards. TUESDAY 7<1th.>1 Strong gales at SE, SEBS & SSE with clowdy weather. At Low-water in the PM I and several of the officers kept a lookout at the Mast head to sees for a passage between the Shoals, but we could see nothing but breakers all the way from the South round by the East as far as Nw, extending out to sea as far as we could see, it did not appear to be one continued shoal but several laying detach'd from each other, on the Eastermost that we could see the Sea broke very high which made me judge it to be the outermost, for on many of those within, the sea did not break high attall; and from about half flood to half Ebb they are not to be seen, which makes the Sailing among them the more dangerous and requires great care & cir- cumspection, for like all other shoals or reefs of Coral Rocks they are quite steep too; altho the most of these shoals consists of Coral rocks yet a part of some of them is sand, the Turtle Reef and some others have a small patch of sand generaly at the north end that is only cover'd at High-water. These generaly discover themselves before we come near them. Altho I speak of this as the Turtle Reef yet It is not to be doubted but what there are Turtle upon the most of them as well as this one. After having well View'd our situation from the 370] mast head I saw that we were surrounded on every side with Shoals and no such thing as a passage to Sea but through the winding channels between them, dangerous to the highest degrees in so much that I was quite at a loss which way to steer when the weather woulds permit us to get under sail; for to beat back to the sE the way we came as the Master would have had me done would bes an endless peice of work, as the winds blow now constantly strongs from that quarter without hardly any intermission--on the other hand if we do not find a passage to the norths we shall have to come [back]s at last. At 11 oClock the Ship drove and obliged us to bear away to a Cable and one third which brouhgt her up again, but in the Morning the Cable and increaseing she drove again. This made us let go the Small Bower anchor and to bear away a whole cable on it and two on the other, and even after this she still kept driving slowly untill we had got down Topgallant Mast, struck Yards and Topmasts close down and made all Snug, than she rid fast, <1C. Bedford>1 bearing wsw distant 31/2 Leagues. In this situation we had shoals to the eastward of us ex- tending from the SEBS to the NNW, distant from the nearest part of them about two miles. WEDNESDAY 8<1th.>1 Strong gales at SSE all this day in so much that I dirst not get up yards and Topmasts. THURSDAY <19th.>1 In the PM the weather being something moderater we got up the Topmast but kept the lower Yards down. A[t] 6 oClock in the Moming we began to heave in the Cable thinking to get under sail, but it blowed so fresh together with a head sea that we could hardly heave the Ship ahead and at last was oblig'd to desist.s FRIDAY 10<1th.>1 Fresh gales at SSE and SEBS. In the PM the wind fell so as we got up the small bower Anchor and hove in to a whole Cable [371 on the best bower. At 3 oClock in the morning we got up the lower yards and at 7 weigh'd and stood in for the land (intending to seeks a passage along shore to the northward) having a boat ahead sounding, depth of water as we run in from 19 to 12 fathom: after standing in an hour we edge'd away for 3 small Island[s]s that lay NNE1/2E 3 Leagues from <1Cape Beoford,>1 to these Islands the Master had been in the Pinnace when the Ship was in Port. At 9 oClock we were abreast of them and between them and the Main having another low Islands between us and the latter which lies wNw, 4 Miles from the Three Island[s], in this Channell had 14 fathom water: the northermost Point of the Main we had in sight bore from us NNw1/2w distant 2 Leagues. Four or 5 Leagues to the NE of this head land appear'd three high Islandss with some smaller ones near them, and the Shoals and reefs without us we could see extending to the northward as far as these Islands: we directed our Course between them and the above headland leaving a small Id to the Eastwd of uss which lies NBE 4 M. from ye 31s having all the while a boat ahead sounding. At Noon we were got betwixt the headland and the 3 High Islands distant from the former 2 and from the latter 4 Leagues, our Latitude by ob- servation was 14o 51' s. We now judged our selves to be clear of all danger having as we thought a clear open sea before us, but this we soon found otherwise and occasiond my calling the headland above mentioned <1Cape Flattery>1 (Latds 14o 55's s, Longd 214o 43' West) it is a lofty Promontary makeing in two hills next the Sea and a third behind them with low sandy land on each side, but it is better known by the Three high Islands out at sea, the northermost which is the largest liess from the Cape NNE distant 5 Leagues. From this Cape the Mainland trends away NW & NWBW. SATURDAY <111th.>1 Fresh breezes at ssE and sEBs with which we steerd along shore NWBW untill one oClock when the Petty officer at the mast head call'd out that he saw land ahead extending quite round to the Islands without us and a large Reef between us and them. Upon this I went to the mast head my self, the Reef I saw very plain which was now so far to windward that we could not weather it, but what he took for main land ahead were only small Islands, for such they appear'd to me but before I had well got from the mast head the 372] Master and some others went up, who all asserted that it was a con- tinuation of the main land, and to make it still more alarming they said that they saw breakers in a manner all round us. We emmidiatly hauld upon a wind in for the land and made the Signal for the boat which was ahead sounding to come on board, but as she was well to leeward we were obliged to edge away to take her up, and soon after came too with an Anchor under a point of the Main in 1/2 less 5 fathom about a Mile from the Shore, <1Cape Flattery>1 bearing sE distant 31/2 Leagues. After thiss I landed and went upon the point which is pretty high, from which I had a view of the sea-Coast which trended away NWBW 8 or 10 Leagues which was as far as I could see, the weather not being very clear. I likewise saw 9 or 10 small low Islandss and some shoals laying of[f] the Coast and some large shoals between the Main and the three high Islands without, which I was now well assured were Islands and not a part of the Main land as some had taken them to be. Excepting <1Cape Flattery>1 and the Point I am now upon, which I have named <1Point Lookout,>1 the Mainland next the Sea to the Northward of <1Cape Bedford>1 is low and Chequer'd with White Sand and Green Bushes &ca for 1o or 12 Miles in land, behond which is high lands. To the northward of <1Point Lookout>1 the shore appeard to be shoald and flat some distance off, which was no good sign of meeting with a channel in with the land as we have hitherto done.s We saw the foot steps of People upon the Sand and smook and fire up in the Country, and in the evening returnd on board where I came to a resolution to Visit one of the high Islands in the offing in my Boat, as they lay at least 5 Leagues out to sea and seem'd to be of such a hieght that from the top of one of them I hoped to see and find a Passage out to sea clear of the shoals: accordingly in the morning I set out in the Pinnace for the northermost and largest of the three accompaned by Mr Banks, at the same time I sent the Master in the Yawl to lee-ward to sound between the low Islands and the Main. In my way to the Island I pass'd over a large Reef of Coral Rocks and sand which lies about two leagues from the Island. I left a nother to leeward which lays about 3 Miles from the Island; on the North part of this is a low sandy Isle with trees upon it. On the Reef we pas'd over in the boat we saw several turtle and chased one or two, but caught none it blowing too hard and I had no time to spare being otherways employ'd. I did not reach the Island untill half an hour after one oClock in the PM of [373 SUNDAY 12<1th.>1 when I immediatly went upon the highest hills on the Island where to my mortification I discoverd a Reef of Rocks laying about 2 or 3 Leagues without the Island, extending in a line NW and sE farther than I could see on which the Sea broke very high. This howevers gave me great hopes that they were the outermost shoals, as I did not doubt but what I should be able to get without them for there appear'd to be several breaks or Partitions in the reef and deep water between it and the Islands. I stay'd upon this hill untill near sun set but the weather continued so hazy all the time that I could not see above 4 or 5 Leagues round me, so that I came down much disapointed in the prospect I expected to have had, but being in hopes that the morning might prove Clearer and give me a better View of the Shoals. With this view I stay'd all night upon the Island, and at 3 in the Morning sent the Pinnace with one of the Mates I had with me to sound between the Island and the Reefs and to examine one of the breaks or Channells, and in the mean time I went again upon the hill where I arrived by sun rise but found it much hazier than in the evening. About noon the Pinnace return'd haveing been out as far as the Reef and found from I5 to 28 fathom water. It blowed so hard that they durst not venture into one of the Channells which the mate said seem'd to him to be very narrow but this did not discourage me for I thought from the place he was at he must have seen it at a disadvantage. Before I quit this Island I shall describe it. It lies as I have before observed about 5 Leagues from the Main, it is about 8 Miles in circuit and of a height sufficient to be seen 10 or 12 Leagues; it is mostly high land very rocky and barren except on the NW side where there are some Sandy bays and low land, which last is cover'd with thin long grass Trees &ca the same as upon the Main. Here is also fresh water in two places the one is a runing stream the water a little brackish where I tasted it which was close to the sea, the other is a standing Pool close behind the sandy beach of good sweet water, as I dare say the other is a little way from the Sea beach. The only Land-animals we saw here were Lizardss and these seem'd to be pretty plenty which occasioned my nameing the Island <1Lizard Island.>1 The Inhabitants of the Main Visit this Island at some seasons of the year for we saw the ruens of several of their hutts and 374] heaps of Shells &ca. sE 4 or 5 Miles from this Island lay the other two high Islandss which are very small compared to this, and near them lay three other yet smaller and lower Islandss and several Shoals or Reefs especially to the sE. There is however a clear passage from <1Cape>1 <1Flattery>1 to these Islands and even quite out to the outer Reefs leaving the above Islands to the SE and Lizard Islands to the NW. MONDAY 13<1th.>1sAt 2 oClock in the PM we left Lizard Island in order to return to the Ship and in our way landed upon the low sandy Isle mentioned in coming out. We found on this Island a great number of birds the most of them Sea fowl, excepot Eagles,s we likewise saw some Turtle but caught none for the reasons before assigned. We found that the Natives resort to this Island as we saw several turtle Shells piled one upon another. After leaving <1Eagle Island>1 we stood SW directly for the Ship, sounding all the way, had not less than 8 fm nor more than 14fm. I found the same depth of water between Lizard and Eagle Island. After we got on board the Master informed me that he had been down to the Islands I had directed him to go tos which he judged to lay about 3 Leagues from the Main, he found 1o, 12 & 14 fathom water without them and 7 between them & Main, this last channell was narrow because from the[m?]s run off a flat above 2 Leagues. He found upon the Islands piles of Turtle shells and some fins that were so fresh that both he [and] the boats crew eat of them, this shew'd that the Natives must have been there lately. After well considering both what I had seen my self and the report of the Master, who was of opinion that the Passage to Leeward would prove danger[ou]s; this I was pretty well convince'd of my self that by keeping in with the main land we should be in continual danger besides the risk we should run of being locke'd in within the Main reef at last and have to return back to seek a passage out, an accident of this kind or any other that might happen to the Ship would infallibly loose our passage to the East Indias this seasons and might prove the ruin of the Voyage, as we have now little more than 3 [375 Months provisions on board and that shorts allowance in many Arti[c]les. These reasons had the [same] weights with all the officers, I therefore resolved to weigh in the morning and endeavour to quet the coast altogether untill we could approach it with less danger:s With this View we got under sail at day light and stood out NE for the Nw end of Lizards Island, leaving Eagle Island to windward of us and some other Islands & Shoals to le[e]wards having the Pinnace a head sounding, in this channell we had from 9 to 14 fathom. At Noon the NW end of Lizard Island bore EsE distant one mile, Latde observed 14o38' s, depth of water 14 fathom.--We now took the Pinnace in tow knowing that there was no danger till we got out to the Reefs without the Island. TUESDAY 14<1th.>1 Winds at sE a steady fresh gale. By 2 oClock we just fetched to windward of one of the Channels in the outer Reef I had seen from the Island, we now tacked and made a short trip to the SW while the Master in the Pinnace examind the channell, he soon made the Signal for the Ship to follow which we accordingly did and in a short time got safe out, we had no sooner got without the breakers than we had no ground with 150 fathom of line and found a well growen Sea rowling in from the SE, certain signs that nither land nor shoals were in our neighbourhood in that direction, which made us quite easy at being free'd from fears of Shoals &ca--after having been intangled among them more or less ever sence the 26th of May, in which time we have saild 36o Leagues without ever having a Man out of the cheans heaving the Lead when the Ship was under way,s a circumstance that I dare say never happen'd to any ship before and yet here it was absolutely necessary. It was with great regret I was obliged to quit this coast unexplored to its No[r]thern extremitys which I think we were not far off, for I firmly believe that it doth not join to <1New Guinea,>1 however this I hope yet to clear up being resolved to get in with the land again as soon as I can do it with 376] safety and the reasons I have before assigned will I presume be thought sufficient for my haveing left it at this time. The Passage or Channell we now came out by lies in the Latitude of 14o 32', it may always be found and known by the three high Islands within it which I have call'd the <1Islands of direction>1 because by them a safe passage may be found, even by Strangers, in within the reef and quite in to the Main; the Channell lies from Lizard Island NE1/2N distant 3 Leagues and is about one third of a Mile broad and not morw in length.s Lizard Island which is the norther- most and largest of the three affords snug Anchorage under the NW side, fresh water and wood for fuel and the low Islands and Shoals which lay between it and the Main abound I am well assured, with Turtle and other fish which may be caught at all seasons of the year except in such blusterous weather as we have lately had; these things considered, there is not perhaps a better place on this whole coast for a Ship to refresh at than this Island. I had forgot to mention in its proper place that not only on these Islands but in severs places on the Sea beach in and about Endeavour River we found Bamboos, Cocoa-nutts, the Seeds of Plants, and Pummick Stones which were not the produce of this Country from all the discoveries we have been able to make in it. It is reasonable to suppose that they are the produce of some Country lying to the Eastward and brought here by the Easterly Trade winds.s The Islands discover'd by <1Quiros>1 call'd by him Astralia del Espiritu Santo lays in this parallel but how far to the East is hard to say, most charts place them as far to the west as this Country, but we are morally certain that he never was upon any part of this coast. The published account of the Voyage which we must depend upons untill we have better Authority places his discoveries about 22o to the East of the Coast of New Holland. As soon as we were without the reef we brought too and hoisted in the boats, than stood off an[d] on upon a wind all night as I did not care to run to leeward untill we had a whole day before us. We now began to find that the Ship had received more damage than we immagined and soon felt the effect the high rowling sea had upon her by increasing her leaks considerably so that it was as much as one [377 Pump could keep her free kept continualy at work; however this was looked upon as trifeling to the danger we had lately made our escape from. At Day light in the Morning Lizard Island bore S 15o E Distant 10 Leagues, we now made sail and stood away NNW1/2W and at 9 oClock NW1/2N, having the advantage of a fresh gale at SE. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 13o 46' S having at this time no land in sight. WEDNESDAY 15<1th.>1 Fresh Trade at SE and clear weather. At 6 oClock in the evening shortend sail and brought too with her head to the NE. At 6 oClock in the AM made sail and steer'd West in order to make the land being fearfull of over shooting the Passage supposeing there to be one between this land and New Guinea. At Noon we had no land in sight, our latitude by observation was 13o 2' South, Longitude 216o 0' West which was 10o 23' West of Lizard Island. THURSDAY 16<1th.>1 By one oClock in the PM or before we saw high land from ys Masthead bearing wsw and at 2 oClock saw more land to the NW of the former makeing in hills like Islands but we judged it to be the continuation of the Main land. An hour after this we saw breakers between us and the land extending to the Southward farther than we could see, but we thought we saw them terminate to the northward abreast of us, this however proved only an openings for soon after we saw the Reef or breakers extend away to the north- ward as far as we could see, upon this we hauld close upon a wind which was now at ESE. We had hardly trimed our sails before the wind came to EBN which was right upon the Reef and of Course made our clearing of it doubtfull, the northermost of it that we could see at sun set bore from us NBE distant about 2 or 3 Leagues. However this being the best tack to clear it we kept standing to the northward with all the Sail we could set untill 12 oClock at night when fearing to Stand too far up this tack we tacked and stood to the Southward having run 6 Leagues North and NBE sence Sun set. We had not stood above 2 Miles SSE before it fell quite Calm, we both sounded now and several times in the night but had no ground with 140 fathoms of line. A little after 4 oClock the roaring of the Surf was plainly heard and at day break the vast foaming breakers were too plainly to be seen not a Mile from us towards which we found the Ship was carried by the waves surprisingly fast. We had at this time not an air of wind and the depth of water was unfathomable so that there was not a possibillity of Anchoring, in this distressed situation we had nothing but Providence and the small Assistance our boats not immidiately be hoisted out, the Yawl was put into the water and the Long-boat hoisted out and both sent ahead to tow which together with the help of our sweeps abaft got the Ships head round to the northward which seem'd to be the only way to keep her off the reef or at least to delay time, before this was effected it was 6 oClock and we were not above 8o or Ioo Yards from the breakers,s the same Sea that washed the sides of the Ship rose in a breaker prodigiously high the very next time it did rise so that between us and distruction was only a dismal Vally the breadth of one wave and even now no ground could be felt with 120 fathoms. The Pinnace by this time was patched up and hoisted out and sent ahead to tow; still we had hardly any hopes of saving the Ship and full as little our lives as we were full 10 Leagues from the nearest land and the boats not sufficient to carry the whole of us, yet in this truly terrible situation not one man ceased to do his utmost and that with as much calmness as if no danger had been near. All the dangers we had escaped were little in comparison of being thrown upon this Reef where the Ship must be dashed to peices in a Moment. A Reef such as is here spoke of is scarcely known in Europe, it is a wall of Coral Rock rising all most perpendicular out of the unfathomable Ocean, always overflown at high-water generally 7 or 8 feet and dry in places at low-water; the large waves of the vast Ocean meeting with so sudden a resistance make a most terrible surf breaking mountains high especially as in our case when the general trade wind blowes directly upon it. At this critical juncture when all our endeavours seem'd too little a small air of wind sprung up, but so small that at any other time in a Calm we should not have observed it, with this and the assistance of our boats we could observe the Ship to move off from the Reef in a slanting direction, but in less than 10 Minutes we had as flat a Calra as ever when our fears were again renewed for as yet we were not [379 above 200 Yards from the breakers. Soon after our friendly breeze viseted us again and lasted about as long as before. A small opening was now seen in the Reef about a quarter of a Mile from us which I sent one of the Mates to examine, its breadth was not more than the length of the Ship but within was smooth water, into this place it was resolve'd to push her if possible haveing no other probable Views to save her,s for we were still in the very jaws of distruction and it was a doubt whether or no we could reach this opening, however we soon got offit when to our surprise we found the Tide of Ebb gushing out like a Mill stream so that it was impossible to get in; we however took all the advantage possible ofit and it carried us out about a 1/4 of a Mile from the breakers, but it was too narrow for us to keep in long; how ever what with the help of Ebbs and our boats we by noon had got an offing of one and a half or two Miles, yet we could hardly flater our selves with hopes of geting clear even if a breeze should spring up as we were by this time imbayed by the Reef, and the Ship in spite of our endeavours driving before the Sea into the bight, the Ebb had been in our favour and we had reason to suppose that the flood which was now makings would be againest us, the only hopes we had was another opening we saw about a Mile to the Westward of us which I sent Lieut[en]ant Hick[s] in the Small boat to examine. Latitude Observed 12o 37' S, the Main land in sight distant about Io Leagues. FRIDAY 17<1th.>1 While Ms Hicks was examining the opening we strugled hard with the flood some times gaining a little and at other times looseing. At 2 oClock Mr Hicks returnd with a favourable account of the opening, it was immidiately resolved to try to secure the Ship in it, narrow and dangerous as it was it seem'd to be the only means we had of saving her as well as our selves. A light breeze soon after sprung up at ENE which with the help of our boats and a flood tide we soon enter'd the opening and was hurried through in a short time by a rappid tide like a Mill race which kept us from driving againest either side, tho the c[h]annell was not more than a quarter of a Mile broad, we had however two boats a head to direct us through, our depth of water in the Channell was from 3o to 7 fathom very erregular soundings and foul ground untill we had got quite within the Reef where we anchor'd in 19 fathom a Corally & 380] Shelly bottom happy once more to incounter those shoals which but two days ago our utmost wishes were crowned by geting clear of,s such are the Vicissitudes attending this kind of service and must always attend an unknown Navigation: Was it not for the pleasure which naturly results to a Man from being the first discoverer, even was it nothing more than sands and Shoals, this service would be insuportable especialy in far distant parts, like this, short of Pro- visions and almost every other necessary. The world will hardly admit of an excuse for a man leaving a Coast unexplored he has once discover'd, if dangers are his excuse he is than charged with <1Timorousness>1 and want of Perseverance and at once pronounced the unfitest man in the world to be employ'd as a discoverer; if on the other hand he boldly incounters all the dangers and obstacles he meets and is unfortunate enough not to succeed he is than charged with <1Temerity>1 and want of conduct. The former of these aspersins cannot with justice be laid to my charge and if I am fortunate enough to surmount all the dangers we may meet the latter will never be brought in question. I must own I have ingaged more among the Islands and shoals upon this coast than may be thought with prudence I ought to have done with a single Ship and every other thing considered, but if I had not we should not have been able to give any better account of the one half of it than if we had never seen it, that is we should not have been able to say whether it consisted of main land or Islands and as to its produce, we must have been totally ignorant of as being inseparable with the other. I now came to a fix'd resolution to keep the Main land on boards in our rout to the norward let the concequence be what it will, indeed now it was not advisable to go without the reef, for what it might be carried so far from the Coast as not to be able to determine whether or no New Guinea joins to or makes a part of this land. This doubt- full point I had from my first coming upon the Coast determined if possible to clear up, but as I had lately experienced the ilconveniency of a boat under repair I intend to lay fast with the Ship tomorrow to have the Pinnace repaired and as I had no employ't for the other boats I sent them all out in the morning to the reef to get such re- freshments as they could find. Found the Variation by the Ampd and Azth to be 4o 9' East. At noon Latitude observed 12o 38' s, Longitude in 216o 45' W, the Main land extending from N 66o West to swBs, [381 distant off the nearest part 8 or 9 Leagues. The opening we came In by, which I have named <1Prov[i]dential Channell,>1s bore ENE distant 10 or 12 Miles. On the Main land within us was a pretty high Promontory which I call'd <1Cape Weymouth,>1s on the north side of the Cape is a Bay known by the same name (Latde 12o 42', Longitude 217o 15' W). SATURDAY 18<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at East and ESE. At 4 oClock in the pm the boats return'd from the reef with about 24o pounds of the Meat of shell fish most of Cockles, some of which are as large as 2 Men can move and contain about 20 lbs of good meat. At 6 oClock in the Morning we got under sail and Stood away to the Nw having two boats ahead to derict us, our soundings were very erregular from 10 to 27 fathom varying 5 or 6 fathom almost every cast of the lead. A little before noon we past a low small Sandy Isles which we left on our starboard side at the distance of 2 Miles, Mr Banks landed upon it and shott several small birds, call'd Nodies.s At Noon our latitude was 12o28', being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the Main which extended from SBW to N 71o West and some Small Islands extending from N 4oo w to 54o w. Between us and the Main were several shoals and some without us, besides the Main or outer Reef seen from the Mast head a way to the NE. SUNDAY 19<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at sEBE and clear weather. At 2 oClock in the PM as we were steering NWBN saw a large shoal right ahead extending 3 or 4 Points on each bow, upon which we hauld up NNE and NEBN in order to get round the North Point ofit which we reached by 4 o'Clock, and than edged away to the westward and run between the north end of this shoal and a nother which lays 2 Miles to the northward of it, having a boat all the time ahead of the Ship soundg our depth of water was very erregular from 22 to 8 fathoms.s At 1/2 past 6 oClock we Anchor'd in 13 fathom, the northermost of the small 382] Islands mentioned at Noon bore W1/2S distant 3 Miles; these Islands, which are known in the Chart by the name of <1Forbes's Isles,>1s lay about 5 Leagues from the Main which here forms a moderatly high Point which we call'd <1Bolt head,>1s from which the land trends more westerly and is all low Sandy land but to the southward it is high and hilly even near the Sea. At 6 oClock in the AM we got again under sail and directed our Course for an Island which lay but a little way from the Main and bore from us at this time N 40o W distant 5 Leagues, but we were soon interrupted in our Course by meeting with Shoals; but by the help of two boats ahead and a good lookout at the Mast head we got at last into a fair Channell which lead us down to the Island, having a very large shoal on our starboard side, and several smaller ones betwixt us and the Main land; in this Channell we had from 2o to 3o fathom water. Between a I <11>1 and 12 oClock we hauld round the NE side of the Island leaving it between us and the Main from which it is distant 7 or 8 Miles. This Island is about a League in circuit and of a Moderate height and is Inhabited; to the Nw of it are several small low Islands and Keys which lay not far from the Main, and to the northward and Eastward lay several other Islands and shoals so that we were now incompass'd on every side by one or the other, but so much does great danger Swallow up lesser ones that those once so dreaded Shoals were now looked at with less concearn.s The Boats being out of their stations we brought too to wait for them. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 12o 0' S, Longitude in 217o 25' West, depth of water 14 fathom, Course and distance saild reduce'd to a strait line sence yesterday Noon is N 29o West 32 Miles. The Main land within the above Islands forms a point which I call <1Cape>1 <1Granville>1s (Latds 11o 58', Longd 217o38'); between this Cape and the Bolt head is a Bay which I named <1Temple Bay.>1s E1/2N 9 Leagues from [383 Cape Granvill lay some tolerable high Islands which I call'd <1Sr>1 <1Charles Hardys Isles,>1 those which lay off the Cape I named <1Cockburns>1 <1Isles.>1s MoNDAY 20<1th.>1 Fresh breezes at EsE. About one oClock the Pinnace having got ahead and the Yawl we took in tow, we fill'd and Steerd NBW for some small Islands we had in that direction; after aproaching them a little nearer we found them joind or connected together by a large Reef;s upon this we Edge'd away NW and left them a starboard steering between them and the Islands laying off the Main, having a fair and clear passage, depth of water from 15 to 23 fm. At 4 oClock we discover'd some low Islands and Rocks bearing WNW, which we stood directly for. At half past 6 oClock we Anchord on the NE side of the northermost in 16 fathom water distant from the Island one mile. The Isles lay Nw 4 Leagues from C. Granville, on these Isless we saw a good many Birds which occasioned my calling them <1Bird>1 <1Isles.>1 Before and at sun set we could see the Main land which appear'd all very low and sandy extend as far to the Northward as NwBN, and some Shoals, Keys and low sandy Isles away to the NE of us. At 6 oClock in the Morning we got again under sail with a fresh breeze at East and stood away NNw for some low Islandss we saw in that dire[c]tion; but we had not stood long upon this Course before we were obliged to haul close upon a wind in order to weather a Shoal which live discover'd on our Larboard bow, having at the same time others to the Eastward of us. By such time as we had weather'd the Shoal to Leeward we had brought the Islands well upon our Lee-bow, but seeing some shoals spit off from them and some Rocks on our starboard bow which we did not discover untill we were very near them, made me afraid to go to windward of the Islands, where- fore we brought too and made the Signal for the Pinnace which was a head to come on board; which done I sent her to leeward of the Islands with orders to keep along the Edge of the Shoal which spited off from the South side of the Southermost Island. The Yawl I sent 384] to run over the Shoal to look for Turtle and appointed them a Signal to make in case they saw many, if not she was to meet us on the other side of the Island. As soon as the Pinnace had got a proper distance from us we wore and stood after her and run to Leeward of the Island where we took the Yawl in tow, she having seen only one small Turtle and therefore made no stay upon the Shoal. Upon this Island which is only a small spot of Sands with some trees upon it, we saw a good many hutts or habitations of the Natives which we supposed comes over from the Main to these Islds (from which they are distant about 5 Leagues) to Catch Turtle at the time these Animals come a Shore to lay their Eggs. Having got the yawl in tow we stood away after the Pinnace NNE and NBE to two other low Islands,s having two shoals which we could see without us and one between us and the Main. At Noon we were about 4 Leagues from the Main Land which we could see extending to the Northward as far as NWBN all low flat and sandy; our Latitude by observation was 11o 23' s, Longitude in 217o 46' West, and Course and distance saild sence yesterday at Noon North 22o West 4o Miles. Soundings from 14 to 23 fathom, but these are best seen upon the Chart as likewise the Islands shoals &ca which are too numerous to be mentioned singly. TUESDAY 21<1st>1. Winds at EBS and ESE a fresh breeze. By one oClock we had run nearly the length of the southermost of the two Islands before mentioned, and finding that we could not well go to windward of them without carrying us too far from the Main land, we bore up and run to Leeward where we found a fair open passage. This done we steer'd NBW in a Parallel direction with the Main land leaving a small Islands between us and it, and some low sandy Isles and shoalss without us, all of which we lost sight off by 4 oClock; neither did we see any more before the sun went down at which time the farthest part of the Main in sight bore NNW1/2W. Soon after this we Anchord in 13 fathom soft ground about 5 Leagues from the land where we lay untill day light when we got again under sail, having first sent the Yawl ahead to sound. We steerd NNW by Compass froms the norther- most land in sight. Variation 3o6' East. Seeing no danger in our way we took the Yawl in tow and made all the Sail we could untill 8 oClock, at which time we discoverd Shoals ahead and on our Lar- board bow and saw that the northermost land, which we had taken to be a part of the Main, was an Island or Islands between which and [385 the Main their appear'd to be a good passage, thro' which we might pass by runing to Leeward of the Shoals on our Larboard bow which was now pretty near us; whereupon we wore and brought too and sent away the Pinnace and yawl to direct us clear of the shoals and then stood after them. After having got round the SE point of the Shoal we steerd NW along the sw or inside of it keeping a good look out at the Mast head, having another shoal on our Larboard side, but we found a good channell of a Mile broad between them wherein were from 10 to 14 fathom water. At a 11 oClock being nearly the Length of the Islands above mentioned and designing to pass between them and the Main, the Yawl being thrown a Stern by falling in upon a part of the shoal she could not get over, we brought the Ship too and sent away the Long-boat (which we had astern and riggd) to keep in shore upon our larboard bow and the Pinnace on the Starboard; for all tho there appear'd to be nothing in the Passages yet I thought it necessary to take this method because we had a strong flood which carried us on end very fast, and it did not want much of high-water. As soon as the boats were ahead we stood after them and got through by noon, at which time we were by observation in the Latitude of 10o 36'30" s. The nearest part of the Main, and which we soon after found to be the Northermost, bore west a little southerlys distant 3 or 4 Miles, the Islands which form'd the Passage before mentioned extending from North to N 75o East distant 2 or 3 Miles. At the same time we saw Islands at a good distance off extending from NBw to wNw and behind them another chain of high land which we like wise Judge'd to be Islands,s the Main land we thought extended as far as N 71 o west but this we found to be Islands. The Point of the Main which forms one side of the Passage before mentioned and which is the Northern Promontary of this country I have Named <1rork Cape>1 in honour of His late Royal Highness the Duke of York. It lies in the Longitude of 218o 24' w, the North point in ye Latde of 10o 37'ss & the Et point in 10o 41' s. The land over and to the Southward of this last point is rather low and very flat as far in land as the eye could r[e]ach and looks barren to the southward ofthe Cape. 386] The Shore forms a large open Bay which I call'd <1New Castle Bay>1s wherein are some small low Islands and shoals and all the land about it is very low flat and sandy. The Land of the northern part of the Cape is rather more hilly and the shore forms some small Bays where- in there appear'd to be good anchorage, and the Vallies appear'd to be tolerably well Cloathed with wood; close to the East point of the Cape are Three small Islands and a small ledge of rocks spiting off from one of them, there is also an Island lay[ing] close to the north pt. The other Islands before spoke off forming the passages lay about 4 Miles without these; only Two of them are of any extent, the Southermost is the largist and much higher than any part of the Main land. On the NW side of this Island seemd to be good anchorage and Vallies that to all appearence would afford both wood and fresh water. These Islands are known in the Chart by the Name of <1rork>1 <1Isles.>1s To thei Sothward and SE of them and even to the Eastward and northward are several low Islands, Rocks and shoals; our depth of water in sailing between them and the Main was 12, 13 & 14 fathoms. WEDNESDAY 22<1d>1. Gentle breezes at EBS and clear weather. We had not stood above 3 or 4 Miles along shore to the westward before we discoverd the Land ahead to be Islands detach'd by several channells from the Main land; upon this we brought too to wait for the yawl and called the other boats on board, and after giving them proper Instructions sent them away again to lead us through the Channell next the Main, and as soon as the yawl was on board made sail with the Ship after them; soon after we discoverd Rocks & shoals in this Channell, upon which I made the Signal for the boats to lead through the next Channel to the Northward laying between the Islands, which they accordingly did we following the ship, and had not less than 5 fathom water and this in the narrowest part of the [387 Channell which was about a Mile and a half broad from Island to Island, At 4 oClock we anchor'd about a Mile and a half or 2 Miles within the entrance in 61/2 fathom clear ground, distant from the Islands on each side of us one mile, the Main land extending away to the sw, the farthest point of which that we could see bore from us s 48o West and the South-wester-mosts point of the Islands on the Nw side of the Passage bore s 76o West. Between these two points we could see no land so that we were in great hopes that we had at last found a Passage into the Indian Seas, but in order to be better informed I landed with a party of Men accompan'd by Mr Banks and Dr Solander upon the Island which lies at the SE point of the Passage. Before and after we Anchor'd we saw a number of People upon this Island arm'd in the same manner as all the others we have seen, except one man who had a bow and a bundle ofArrows, the first we have seen on this coast. From the appearence of these People we expected that they would have opposed our landing but as we approachd the Shore they all made off and left us in peaceable posession of as much of the Island as served our purpose. After landing I went upon the highest hill which however was of no great height, yet not lesss than twice or thrice the height of the Ships Mast heads, but I could see from it no land between sw and wsw so that I did not doubt but what there was a passage. I could see plainly that the Lands laying to the NW of this passage weres composed of a number of Island[s] of various extent both for height and circuit, rainged one behind another as far to the Northward and Westward as I could see, which could not be less than 12 or I4 Leagues. Having satisfied my self of the great Probabillity of a Passage, thro' which I intend going with the Ship, and therefore may land no more upon this Eastern coast of <1New Holland,>1 and on the Western side I can make no new discovery the honour of which belongs to the Dutch Navigators;s but the Eastern Coast from the Latitude of 38o South down to this place I am confident was never seen or viseted by any European befores us, and Notwithstand[ing] I had in the Name of His Majesty taken posession of several places upon this coast, I now once more hoisted English Coulers and in the Narne of His Majesty King George the Third took posession of the whole Eastern Coast from the above Latitude down to this place by the name of <1New South>1 388] <1Wales,>1s together with all the Bays, Harbours Rivers and Islands situate upon the said coast, after which we fired three Volleys of small Arms which were Answerd by the like number from the Ship.s This done we set out for the Ship buts some time in getting on board on accou[n]t of a very rappid Ebb Tide which set NE out of the Passage. Ever sence we came in among the Shoals this last time we have found a Moderate Tide the Flood seting to the Nw and Ebb to the sE. At this place it is High-water at the Full and Change of the Moon about 1 or 2 o'Clock and riseth and falls upon a perpendicular about 10 or 12 feet. We saw on all the Adjacent Lands and Islands a great number of smooks, a certain sign that they are Inhabited, and we have dayly seen smooks on every part ofthe coast we have lately been upon. Between 7 and 8 oClock in the Morning we saw several naked people, all or most of them women, down upon the beach picking up Shells &ca, they had not a single rag of any kind of Cloathing upon them and both these and those we saw yesterday were in every respect the Same sort of people we have seen every where upon the Coast; two or three of the Men we saw Yesterday had on pretty large breast plates which we supposed were made of Pearl Oysters Shells,s this was a thing as well as the Bows and Arrows we had not seen before. At Low-water which happend about 10 oClock we got under sail and stood to the sw with a light breeze at East which afterwards veerd to NBE, having the Pinnace a head, depth of water from 6 to 10 fathom except in one place where we pass'd over a bank of 5 fathom. At Noon <1Posession Island>1s at the sE entrance of the Passage bore [389 N 53o East distant 4 Leagues, the western extreme of the Main land in sight bore s 43o West distant 4 or 5 Leagues, being all exceeding low. The sw point of the largest Island on the Nw side of the Passages bore N 71o West distant 8 Miles, this point I named <1Cape Cornwell>1s (Lat. 10o 43' s, Longd 219o 0's) and some Low Islands laying about the Middle of the Passage which I call'd <1Wallice's Isles>1s bore WBS1/2S distt about 2 Leagues, our Latitude by Observation was 10o 46' South. THURSDAY 23<1d.>1 In the PM had little wind and Variable with which and the Tide of Flood we Kept advancing to the wNw, depth of water 8, 7, 6 and 5 fathom. At half an hour past one oClock the Pinnace which was ahead made the Signal for shoal water upon which we Tack'd and sent away the Yawl to sound also, and then Tack'd again and stood after them with the Ship: Two hours after this they both at once made the Signal for having shoal water, and it being now near High waters I was afraid to stand on for fear of runing a ground at that time of the Tide, and therefore came too an Anchor in 1/4 less 7 fathom sandy ground. <1Wallice's Islands>1 bore SBW1/2W distant 5 or 6 Miles, the Islands to the northward extending from s 73o East to N 10o E, and a small Island just in sight bearing NW1/2w; here we found the flood Tide set to the westward and Ebb the Contrary. After we had come to anchor I sent away the Master with the Long boat to sound, who upon his return in the evening reported that there was a bank stretching north and south upon which were 3 fathom water and behond it 7 fathom. We had it calm all night and untill 9 oClock in the Morning, at which time we weigh'd with a light breeze at SSE and steer'd NWBW for the small Island above Mentioned having first sent the Boats ahead to sound, depth of water 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fm when upon the Bank,s it being now the last quarter Ebb. At this time the Most northermost Island we had in sight bore N 9o 390] East,s <1Cape Cornwell>1 bore East distant 3 Leagues and <1Wallace's Isles>1 bore s 3o East distant 3 Leagues; this bank at least so much as we sounded extends nearly North and South, how far I cannot say, its breadth however is not more than a quarter or at most half a mile; being over the bank we deepen'd our water to a 142 less 7 fathom which depth we carried all the way to the small Island a head, which we reached by Noon at which time it bore South distant near half a Mile, depth of water 5 fathom, the most Northermost land we had in sight (being part of the same chain of Islands we have had to the northward of us sence we enterd the passage) bore N 71 o East; Latd in by observation 10o 33' s. Longitude 219o 22' w. In this situation we had no part of the Main Land in sight. Being now near the Island and having but little wind Mr Banks and I landed upon it and found it to be mostly a barren Rock frequented by birds such as Boobies,s a few of which we Shott and occasioned my giving it the Name of <1Booby Island.>1 I made but a very short stay at this Island before I returnd to the Ship.s In the mean time the wind had got to sw and altho it blowed but very faint yet it was accompaned with a swell from the same quarter; this together with other concuring circumstances left me no room to doubt but we were got to the Westward of <1Carpentaria>1 or the Northern extremety of <1New-Holland>1 and had now an open Sea to the westward, which gave me no small satisfaction not only because the dangers and fatigues of the Voyage was drawing near to an end, but by being able to prove that New-Holland and New-Guinea are two Seperate Lands or Islands, which untill this day hath been a doubtfull point with Geographers. The NE entrance of this Passage or Strait lies in the Latitude of 10o 27'ss and in the Longitude of 218o 36' West from the Meridian of Greenwich. It is form'd by the Main or the Northern extremety of New-Holland on the SE and by a Congeries of Islands to [391 the NW which I Named <1Prince of Wales's Islands.>1 It is very probable that these Islands extend quite to New-Guinea, they are of Various extent both for height and circuit and many of them seem'd to be indifferently well cloathed with wood &ca and from the smooks we saw some if not all of them must be inhabited. It is also very probable that among these Islands are as good if not better passages than the one we have come thro', altho one need hardly wish for a better was the Access to it from the Eastward less dangerous, but this difficulty will remain untill some better way is found out than the one we came, which no doubt may be done was it ever to becorne an object to be look'd fors; the Northern extent of the Main or outer Reef which limets or bounds the Shoals to the Eastward seems to be the only thing wanting to clear up this point, and this was a thing I had neither time nor inclination to go about, having been already sufficiently harrass'd with dangers without going to look for more. This Passage, which I have named <1Endeavours Straight>1s after the name of the Ship, is in length NE and SW 10 Leagues and about 5 Leagues broad, except at the NE entrance where it is only 2 Miles broad by reason of several small Islands which lay there, one of which call'd <1Posession Island>1 is of a moderate height and circuit; this we left between us and the Main, passing between it and two small round Islands which lay Nw 2 Miles from it.s There are also two small low Islands call'd Wallice's Isles laying in the Middle of the sw entrance which we left to the Southward. The depth of water we found in the Straight was from 4 to 9 fathom every where good anchorage; only about 2 Leagues to the northward of Wallice's Islands is a Bank whereon is not more than three fathom at low-water but probably there might be found more was it sought for. I have not been particular in discribing this Strait no more than I have been in pointing out the respective situations of the Islands Shoals &ca on the easterns coast of <1New Wales.>1 For these I refer to the Chart, where they are delineated with all the Accuracy that circumstances would admit of; with respect to the Shoals that lay upon this Coast I must observe for the benifit of those who mays come after me, that I do not 392] beleive the one half of them are laid down in my chart, for it would be obsurd to suppose that we could see or find them all,s and the same thing may in some measure be said of the Islands especially between the Latitude of 20o & 22o, where we saw Islands out at Sea as far as we could distinguish any thing. However take the Chart in general and I beleive it will be found to contain as few errors as most Sea Charts which have not under gone a thorough correction, the Latitude and Longitude of all or most of the principal head lands, Bays &ca may be relied on, for we seldom faild of geting an Observa- tion every day to correct our Latitude by, and the observation for Settleing the Longitude were no less numberous and made as often as the Sun and Moon came in play, so that it was impossible for any material error to creep into our reckoning in the intermidiate times. In justice to Mr Green I must say that he was Indefatigable in making and calculating these observations which otherwise must have taken up a great deal of my time, which I could not at all times very well spare. Not only this, but by his Instructions several of the Petty officers can make and Calculate these observations almost as well as himself: it is only by such means that this method of finding the Longitude at Sea can be put into universal practice--a method that we have generally found may be depended upon to within half a degree; which is a degree of accuracy more than Sufficient for all Nautical purposes. Would Sea officers once apply themselves to the makeing and calculating these observations they would not find thera so very difficult as they at first imagine, especially with the assistance of the Nautical Almanac and Astronomical Ephemeris, by the help of which the calculations for finding the Longde takes up but little more time than that of an Azimuth for find[ing] the Varin of the compass; but unless this Ephemeris is publishd for some time to come more than either one or two Years it never can be of general use in long Voyages, and in short Voyages its not so much wanting; without it the Calculations are laborious and discouraging to beginers and such as are not well Verse'd in these kind of calculations. In the Course of this journal I have at different times made mention of the appearence or Aspect of the face of the Country, the nature of the Soil, its produce &ca. By the first it will appear that to the South- ward of 33o or 34o the Land in general is low and level with very few Hills or Mountains, further to the northward it may in some places be called a Hilly, but hardly any where can be call'd a Mountainous [393 Country, for the Hills and Mountains put together take up but a small part of the Surface in comparison to what the Planes and Vallies do which intersect or divide these Hills and Mountains: It is indefferently well watered, even in the dry Seasons, with small Brooks and springs, but no great Rivers, unless it be in the wets Season when the low lands and Vallies near the Sea I do su mostly laid under water; the small brooks may then become large Rivers but this can only happen with the Tropick. It was only in <1Thirsty Sound>1 where we could find no fresh Water, excepting one small pool or two which Gore saw in the woods, whichs no doubt was owing to the Country being there very much intersected with Salt creeks and Mangrove land. The low Land by the Sea and even as far in land as we were, is for the most part friable, loose, sandy Soil; yet indefferently fertile and cloathed with woods, long grass, shrubs, Plants &ca. The Mountains or Hills are Chequered with woods and Lawns. Some of the Hills are wholy covered with flourishing Trees; others but thinly, and the few that are on them are srnall and the spots of Lawns or Savannahs are Rocky and barren, especially to the northward where the country did not afford or produce near the Vegetation that it does to the south- ward, nor were the Trees in the woods half so tall and stout. The Woods do not produce any great variety of Trees, there are only 2 or 3 sorts that can be call'd Timber; the largest is the Gum Tree which growes all over the Country, the Wood of this Tree is too hard and ponderous for most common uses. The Tree which re- sembles our Pines, I saw no where in perfection but in Botany Bay,s this wood as I have before observed is some thing of the same nature as America Live Oak; in short most of the large Trees in this Country are of a hard and ponderous nature and could not be applied to many purposes. Here are several sorts of the Palm kind, Man- gro[v]es and several other sorts of small Trees and shrubs quite unknown to me besides a very great Variety of Plants hetherto unknown, but these things are wholy out of my way to describe, nor will this be of any loss sence not only Plants but everything that can be of use to the Learn'd World will be very accuratly described by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. The Land naturly produces hardly any thing fit for man to eat and the Natives know nothing of Cultivation. There are indeed found growing wild in the woods a few sorts of 394] fruits (the most of them unknown to us) which when ripe do not eat a miss, one sort especially which we call'd Apples, being about the size of a Crab-Apple, it is black and pulpy when ripe and tastes like a Damson, it hath a large hard stone or kernel and grows on Trees or Shrubs.s In the Northern parts of the Country as about <1Endeavour River,>1 and probably in many other places, the Boggy or watery Lands produce Taara or Cocoss which when properly cultivated are very good roots, without which they are hardly eatable, the tops however make very good greens. Land Animals are scarce, ass so far as we know confined to a very few species; all that we saw I have before mentioned, the sort that is in the greatest plenty is the Kangooroo, or Kanguru so call'd by the Natives; we saw a good many of them about Endeavour River, but kill'd only Three which we found very good eating. Here are like wise Batts, Lizards, Snakes, Scorpions, Centumpees &ca but not in any plenty. Tame Animals they have none but Dogs, and of these we saw but one and therefore must be very scarce, probably they eat them faster than they breed them,s we should not have seen this one had he not made us frequent Visets while we lay in Endeavour River. The Land Fowles are Bustards, Eagles, Hawks, Crows such as we have in England, Cockatoes of two sorts, white and brown, very beautifull Birds of the Parrot kind such as Lorryquets &ca, Pidgeons, Doves, Quales, and several sorts of smaller birds. The Sea and Water Fowls are Herons, Boobies, Nodies, Guls, Curlews, Ducks, Pelicans &ca and when Mr Banks and Mr Gore were in the Country at the head of Endeavour River they saw and heard in the night great num- bers of Geese. The sea is indifferently well stock'd with Fish of various sorts, such as Sharks, Dog-fish, Rock-fish, Mullets, Breames, Cavallies, Mackarel, old wives, Leather jackets, Five-fingers, Sting- Rays, Whip-rays &ca--all excellent in their kind.s The Shell-fish are Oysters of 3 or 4 sorts, viz Rock oysters and Mangrove Oysters which are small, Pearl Oysters, and Mud Oysters, these last are the best and largest;s Cockles and Glams of Several sorts, many of these that are found upon the Reefs are of a Prodigious size; Craw-fish,s Crabs, [395 Musles, and a variety of other sorts. Here are also among and upon the Shoals & reefs great numbers of the finest Gree[n] Turtle in the world and in the Rivers and salt Creeks are some Aligators.s The Natives of this Country are of a middle Stature straight bodied and slender-limbd, their skins the Colour of Wood soot or of a dark Chocolate,s their hair mostly black, some lank and others curled, they all wear it crop'd short, their Beards which are generaly black they like wise crop short or singe off. Their features are far from being disagreeable and their Voices are soft and tunable. They go quite naked both Men and women without any manner of Cloathing whatever, even the Women do not so much as Cover their privities. Altho none of us were ever very near any of their women, one gentleman excepted, yet we are all as well satisfied of this as if we had lived among them. Notwithstanding we had several interviews with the Men while we lay in Endeavour River, yet whether through Jealousy or disrigard they never brought any of their women along with them to the Ship, but always left them on the opposite side of the River where we had frequent oppertunities [of]s Viewing them through our glasses. They wear as Oraments Necklaces made of shells, Bracelets or hoops about their arms, made mostly of hair twisted and made like a cord hoop, these they wear teight about the uper parts of their Arms, and some have girdles made in the same manner. The men wear a bone about 3 or 4 Inches long and a fingers thick, run through the Bridge of the nose, which the Seamen call'd a sprit sail yard;s they like wise have holes in their ears for Ear- rings but we never saw them wear any, neither are all the other oraments wore in common for we have seen as many without as with them. Some of those we saw on Posession Island wore Breast Plates which we suppose'd were made of Mother of Pearl shells. Many of them paint their bodies and faces with a sort of White paist or Pigment, this they apply different ways each according to his fancy. Their Offensive weaphons are Darts, some are only pointed at one end others are barb'd, some with wood others with the Stings of Rays and some with Sharks teeth &ca, these last are stuck fast on with gum. They throw the Dart with only one hand, in the doing of which they make use of a peice of wood about 3 feet long made thin like the blade of a Cutlass, with a little hook at one end to take hold of the end of the Dart, and at the other end is fix'd a thin peice ofbone about 3 or 4 Inches long; the use of this is, I beleive, to keep the dart 396] steady and to make it quit the hand in a proper direction; by the help of these throwing sticks, as we call them, they will hit a Mark at the distance of 40 or 50 Yards, with almost, if not as much certainty as we can do with a Musquet, and much more so than with a ball. These throwing sticks we at first took for wooden swords, and per- haps on some occasions they may uses them as such, that is when all their darts are expended, be this as it may they never travel without both them and their darts, not altogether for fear of enimies but for killing of Game &ca as I shall shew hereafter. Their defensive weapons are Shieldss made of wood but these we never saw use'd but once in Botany Bay. I do not look upon them to be a warlike People, on the Contrary I think them a timorous and inoffensive race, no ways inclinable to cruelty, as appear'd from their behavour to one of our people in Endeavour River which I have before mentioned. Neither are they very numerous, they live in small parties along by the Sea Coast, the banks of Lakes, Rivers creeks &ca. They seem to have no fix'd habitation but move about from place to place like wild Beasts in search of food, and I beleive depend wholy upon the success of the present day for their subsistance. They have wooden fish gigs with 2, 3 or 4 prongs each very ingeniously made with which they strike fish; we have also seen them strike both fish and birds with their darts. With these they like wise kill other Animals; they have also wooden Harpoons for striking Turtle, but of these I beleive they got but few, except at the Season they come a shore to lay. In short these people live wholy by fishing and hunting, but mostly by the former, for we never saw one Inch of Cultivated land in the whole Country; they know however the use of Taara and sometimes eat them. We do not know that they eat any thing raw but roast or broil all they eat on slow small fires. Their Houses are mean small hovels not much bigger than an oven, made of peices of Sticks, Bark, Grass &ca, and even these are seldom used but in the wet seasons for in the dry times we know that they as often sleep in the open air as any where else. We have seen many of their Sleeping places where there has been only some branches, or peices of bark ris about a foot froms the ground on the windward side. Their Canoes are as mean as can be conceived, especially to the southward where all we saw were made of one peice of the bark of Trees, about 12 or 14 feet long, drawn or tied together at one end as I have before made mention. These Canoes will not carry above 2 : people, in general their is never more than one in them, but bad as [397 they are they do very well for the purpose they apply them to, better then if they were larger, for as they draw but little water they go in them upon the Mud banks and pick up shell fish &ca without going out of the Canoe. The few Canoes we saw to the northward were made of a log of wood hollow'd out, about 14 feet long and very narrow with out-riggers, these will carry 4 people. During our whole stay in Endevour River we saw but one Canoe and had great reason to think that the few people that resided about this place had no more; this one served them to cross the River and to go a fishing in &ca. They Attend the Shoals and flatts one where or a nother every Day at Low-water to gather Shell fish or what ever they can find to eat, and have each a little bag to put what they get in: this bag is made of net work. They have not the least knowlidge of Iron or any other Metal that we know of; their working tools must be made of stone, bone and shells, those made of the former are very bad if I may judge from one of their Adzes I have seen. Bad and mean as their Canoes are they at certain Seasons of the Year, so far as we know, go in them to the most Distant Islands which lay upon the Coast, for we never landed upon one but what we saw signs of people having been there before. We were supprised to find Houses &ca upon Lizard Island which lies 5 Leagues from the nearest part of the Main, a distance we before thought that they could not have gone in their Canoes. The Coast of this Country, at least so much of it as lays to the Northward of 25o of Latitude, abounds with a great Number of fine Bays and Harbours, which are shelter'd from all Winds. But, the Country it self so far as we know doth not produce any one thing that can become an Article in trade to invite Europeans to fix a settlement upon it. However this Eastern side is not that barren and Miserable Country that <1Dampier>1 and others have discribed the western side to be.s We are to Consider that we see this Country in the pure state of Nature, the Industry of Man has had nothing to do with any part of it and yet we find all such things as nature hath bestow'd upon it in a flourishing state. In this Extensive Country it can never be doubted but what most sorts of Grain, Fruits, Roots &ca of every kind would flourish here were they once brought hither, planted and cultivated by the hand of Industry, and here are Provender for more Cattle at all seasons of the year than ever can be brought into this Country. When one considers the Proximity of this Country with New- 398] Guiney, New-Britain and several other Islands which produce Cocoa- Nutts and many other fruits proper for the Support of Man, it seems strange that they should not long ago have been transplanted here; by its not being done it should seem that the Natives of this Country have no Commerce with their neighbours the New-Guinians, it is very probable that they are a different people and speake a different Language; for the advantage of such who want to clear up this point I shall add a short Vocabulary of a few words in the New-Holland Language which we learnt when in Endeavour River. <1English New-Holland>1 The head Whageegee ,, Hair of the head Morye or More ,, Eyes Meul ,, Ears Melea ,, Lips Yembe or Jembi ,, Teeth Mulere or Moile ,, Chin Jacal ,, Beard Waller ,, Tongue Unjar ,, Nose Borjoo ,, Naval Toolpoor or Julpur ,, Penis Kereil or Kerrial ,, Scrotum Coonal or Kunnol ,, Arms Aco or Acol ,, Hands Mangal ,, Thumb Eboorbalga ,, Fore, Middle & Ring fings Egalbaiga ,, Little Finger Nakil or Eboornakill ,, Thighs Coman ,, Knees Ponga ,, Legs Peigoorgo ,, Feet Edamal ,, Nails Kolke or Kulke A Stone Walba Sand Joowal, Yowall or Joralba A Rope or Line Goorgo or Gurka Fire Maianang or Meanang The Sun Galan or Gallan ,, Sky Kere or Kearre A Father Dunjo A Son Jumurre A Man Bamma or Ba~ma~ A Dog Cotta or Kota A Lorryquet Perpere or Peer-pier [399 <1English New-Holland>1 A Cocatoo Wanda Male Turtle Poenja or Poinga Female ,, Mamingo A Great Cockle Moenjo or Moingo Cocoa Yamms Maracotn A Canoe Maragani From what I have said of the Natives of New-Holland they may appear to some to be the most wretched people upon Earth, but in reality they are far more happier than we Europeans; being wholy unacquainted not only with the superfluous but the necessary Conveniencies so much sought after in Europe, they are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live in a Tranquillity which is not disturb'd by the Inequality of Condition: The Earth and sea of their own accord furnishes them with all things necessary for life, they covet not Magnificent Houses, Houshold-stuff &ca, they live in a warm and fine Climate and enjoy a very wholsome Air, so that they have very little need of Clothing and this they seem to be fully sencible of, for many to whome we gave Cloth &ca to, left it carlessly upon the Sea beach and in the woods as a thing they had no manner of use for.s In short they seem'd to set no Value upon any thing we gave them, nor would they ever part with any thing of their own for any one article we could offer them; this in my opinion argues that they think themselves provided with all the necessarys of Life and that they have no superfluities. I shall conclude the account of this Country with a few observa- tions on the Currents and Tides upon the Coast, because I have 400] mentioned in the Course of this Journal that the latter hath some times set one way and some times a nother, which I shall endeavour to account for in the best manner I can. From the Latitude of 32o or above down to Sandy Cape in the Latitude of 24o 46' we constantly found a Current seting to the Southward at the rate of about 10 or 15 Miles per day more or less according to the distance we were from the land, for it runs stronger in shore than in the offing: all this time I had not been able to satisfy my self whether the Flood Tide came from the Southward Eastward or Northward but judged it to come from the SE. But the first time we Anchor'd upon the Coast, which was in the Latitude of 24o 30' and about 10 Leagues to the sE of Bustard Bay, we found there the Flood to come from the Nw. On the Contrary 30 Leagues further to the NW, on the South side of Keppel Bay we found the Flood to come from the East, and at the northern part of the said Bay we found it come from the Northward but with a much slower Motion than the Easterly Tide. Again on the East side of the Bay of Inlets we found the Flood to set Strong to the Westward as far as the opening of Broad sound, but on the North side of that Sound the Flood come with a very slow motion from the Nw, and when at Anchor before Repulse Bay we found the flood to Come from the Northward. We need only admit the Flood Tide to come from the East or SE and than all these seeming contridections will be found to be conformable to reason and experience. It is well known that where there are deep Inlets, large Creeks &ca into low lands that is not occasioned by Fresh water Rivers, there is always a very great indraught ofthe Flood Tide, the direction of which will be determined according to the posision or direction of the Coasts which form's the entrance in to such Inlets, and this direction the Tides must follow let it be ever so contrary to their general Course out at Sea, and where the Tides are weak as they are in general upon this Coast, a Large Inlet will if I may so call it attract the Flood Tide for many Leagues. Any one need only cast an Eye over the Chart to be made sencible of what I have here advanced. To the Northward of <1Whitsunday's Passage>1 there are few or no large inlets and conce- quently the Flood sets to the Northward or NW according to the Direction of the Coast, and Ebb the Contrary; but this is to be understood at a little distance from land or where there are no creeks or Inlets, for where such are be they ever so small they draw the Flood from the Southward Eastward and Northrd, as I found by experience while we lay in Endeavour River. Another thing I have Observe'd upon the Tides which ought to be remark'd, which is that there is only one high Tide in 24 hours and that is the Night [401 Tide, or spring Tides, the difference between the perpendicular Rise of the Night and Day Tides is not less than 3 feet, which is a great deal where the Tides are so inconsiderable as they are here; this inequality of the Tides I did not observe till we run a shore, perhaps it is more so to the Northward than to the southward.s After we had got within the Reefs the second time we found the Tides more considerable than at any time before except in the Bay of Inlets, it may be owing to the water being confin'd in Channells between the Shoals; here the Flood also sets to the NW, to the extremity of New- Wales, from thence West and sw into the India Sea. FRIDAY 24<1th.>1 In the PM had light Airs from the SSW with which, after leaving <1Booby Island>1 as before mentioned, we Steer'd WNW untill 5 oClock when it fell calm, and the Tide of Ebb which sets to the NE soon after makeing, we Anchor'd in 8 fathom water soft sandy bottom, <1Booby Island>1 bearing s 5oo East distant 5 Miles, <1Prince of Wales Isles>1 extending from NEBN to so 55o East; there appeard to be an open clear Passage between these Islands extending from N At half an hour past 5 in the Morning, in purchasingsthe A cs r the Cable parted about 8 or 10 fathom from the Anchor. I emmidiatly order'd another Anchor to be let go which brought the Ship up before she had drove a Cables length from the Buoy, after this we carried out a Kedge and warped the Ship nearer it and than endeavour'd to sweep the Anchor with a Hawser, but miss'd it and broke away the Buoy rope; we made several Attempts afterwards but did not succeed. While the Boats were thus employd we hove up the Kedge Anchor it being of no more use. At Noon Latitude Obserd 10o30' s. Winds at NE a fresh breeze, the Flood Tide here come from the same quarter. SATURDAY 25<1th.>1 Winds at NE and ENE a gentle breeze. Being re- solve'd not to leave the Anchor behind while there remaind the least probabillity of geting of it, After dinner I sent the Boats again to sweep for it first with a small line which succeeded, and now we [403 know'd where it lay we found it no very hard matter to sweep it with a hawser; this done we hove the Ship up to it by the same hawser but just as it was allmost up and down the Hawser slip'd and left us all to do over again. By this time it was dark and obliged us to leave of untill day light in the Morning when we Sweep'd it again and hove it up to the bows, and by 8 oClock weigh'd the other Anchor got under sail and stood away Nw having a fresh breeze at ENE. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 10s18' s, Longde 219o39' W, having no land in sight; but about 2 Miles to the Southward of us lay a Shoals on which the Sea broke and I beleive a part of it drys at Low-water; it extended Nw and sE and might be about 4 or 5 Leagues in circuit. Depth of water at this time and sence we weigh'd 9 fathom. SUNDAY 26<1th>1. Fresh breezes at East. In standing to the Nw we began to Shoalden our water from 9 to 7 fathom, and at half an hour past one o'Clock having run 11 Miles sence noon the boat which was ahead made the signal for shoal water, immidiatly upon which we let go an Anchor and brought the Ship up with the sails standing as the boat was but a little ways having butjust releived the crew, and at the same time we saw from the Ship shoal waters in a manner all round us and both wind and Tide seting upon it. We lay in 6 fathom with the Ship, but upon sounding about her found hardly 2 fathom water a very rocky bottom not much above half a Cables length from us, from the East round by the North and West as far as sw, so that there was no way to get clear but the way we came. This was one of the many fortunate escapes we have had from shipwreck for it was near high-water and there run a short cockling sea that would soon have bulged the Ship had she struck, these shoals that lay a fathom or 2 fathm under water are the most dangerous of any, for they do not shew themselves untill you are close upons them and than the water upon them looks brown like ye ref[l]ection of dark Clowds.s Between 3 and 4 oClock the Ebb began to make when I sent the Master to sound to the Southward and sw ward, and in the Mean time as the Ship tendeds hove up the anchor and with a little sail stood to the southward, and afterwards edged away to the westward and got once more out of danger where at sun set we anchord in a 10 fm water sandy bottom having a fresh of wind at EsE. At 6 oClock in the Morning we 404] weighd and Stood west with a fresh of wind at East, having first sent a boat ahead to sound. I did intend to have steer'd Nw untill we had made the South Coast of <1New Guinea,>1 designing if Possible to touch upon that Coast, but the meeting with these Shoals last night made me alter the Course to west in hopes of meeting with fewer dangers and deeper water, and this we found for by Noon we had deepen'd our water gradually to 17 fathom and this time we were by observa- tion in the Latitude of 10o 10' South, Longde 220o 12's West. Course and distance sail'd sence yesterday at Noon N 76o W, a 11 Leagues. No land in sight. MONDAY 27<1th>1. Fresh breezes between the EBN and ESE with which we steerd west untill sun set, depth of water from 27 to 23 fathom. We now reef'd the Topsails shortend sail and hoisted in the Pinnace and Long-boat up along side and afterwards kept upon a wind all night under our Topsails, 4 hours on one tack and 4 on the other, depth of water 25 fathom, very even Soundings. At Day light made all the Sail we could and Steerd wNW untill 8 o'Clo[c]k than Nw. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9o56' s, Longitude 221o 00' West, Variation 2o 30' East. Course and Distance saild sence yester- day at Noon N 73o 30' West 49 Miles. TUESDAY 28<1th>1. Fresh breezes at E and EBS and fair weather. Con- tinued a NW Course untill sun Set at which time we Shortend sail and hauld close upon a wind to the Northward, depth of water 21 fathom. At 8 Tack'd and Stood to the Southward untill 12, than Stood to the Northward under little sail untill day light, Sounding from 25 to 17 fathom, Shoaldening as we stood to the northward. At this time we made sail and steer'd North in order to make the land of <1New-Guinea;>1 from the time of our makeing sail untill Noon the depth of water gradually decreased from <11>1 7 to 12 fathom a stoney and shelly bottom. We were now by observation in the Latitude of 8o 52' s, which is in the same Parallell as the southern parts of <1New-Guinea>1 as it is laid down in the Charts, but there are only two points so far to the South and I reckon that we are a Degree to the westward of both, and for that reason do not see the land which trends more to the north- ward. Our Course and distance saild sence Yesterday is NNw 69 Miles, Longitude in 221o 27' West. The Sea in many places is here cover'd with a kind of a brown scum, such as Sa[i]lors generally call spawn; upon our first seeing it, it alarm'd us thinking that we were among Shoals, but we found the same depth of Water where it was [405 as in other places. Neither Mr Banks nor Dr Solander could tell what it was altho they had of it to examine.s WEDNESDAY 29<1th.>1 Continued standing to the Northward with a fresh gale at EBs and sE untill 6 oClock having Very errigular and uncertain soundings from 24 to 7 fathom. At 4 oClock we made the Land from the Mast head bearing NWBN and which appeard to be very low. At 6 it extended from WNW to NNE distant 4 or 5 Leagues, at this time hauld close upon a wind to the Eastward untill 7 oClock than Tack'd and stood to the southward untill I2, at which time we wore and stood to the Northward untill 4, than lay her head offuntill day-light when we again saw the land and stood in NNW directly for it haveing a fresh gale at EBs. Our Soundings in the night were from 17 to 5 fathom very erregular without any sort of rule with respect to our distance from the land. At 1/2 an hour past 6 oClock a small low Island laying about a League from the Main bore NBw distant 5 Miles, this Island lies in the Latitude of 8o 13' s, Longse 221o 25' West. I find it laid down in the Charts by the name of <1St Bartholomeo>1 or <1Wleermoysen.>1s We now steer'd NWBW, WNW, WBN, WBS and SWBW as we found the land to lay, having a boat ahead of the Ship sounding, depth of water from 5 to 9 fathom. When in 7, 8 and 9 fathom we could but just see the land from the deck, but I did not think we were at Most above 4 Leagues off because the land is exceeding low and level and appear'd to be well cover'd with wood, one sort appear'd to us to be Cocoa-nutt trees. By the Smooks we saw in different parts as we run along shore we were assured that the Country is inhabited. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the land, the westermost part of which that we could see bore s 79o w. Our Latitude by observation was 8o 19' s, Longitude 22 <11>1 o44' West. The Island <1St>1 <1Bartholmeo>1 bore N 74o East, distant 20 Miles. THURSDAY 30<1th.>1 Fresh breezes at SE, ESE and EBS. After steering SWBW 6 Miles we discoverd on our Star[board] bow and ahead a strong appearence of shoal water and by this time we had shoalden our water from 10 to 5 fathom, upon which I made the Pinnace's signl to edge down to it, but she not going far enough we sent the Yawl to sound in it, and at the same time hauld off close upon a wind 406] with the Ship untill 4 o'Clock at which time we had run Six Miles, but did not depen our water any thing; we then edge'd away sw 4 Miles more, but finding Still Shoal water we brought too and call'd the Boats on board by signal, hoisted them in and than hauld off close upon a wind, being at this time about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land. The Yawl found only three fathom water in the place where I sent her to sound, which place we weather'd about half a Mile- Between one and two oClock we pass'd a Bay or Inlet before which lies a small Island that seems to shelter it from the Southerly winds, but I very much doubt there being water behind it for Shipping. I could not attempt it because the sE Trade wind blows right in and we have not as yet had any land breezes.s We stretched off to Sea untill 12 oClock at which time we were 10 or 11 Leagues from the land and had depen'd our water to 29 fathom. We now tack'd and stood in untill 5 o'Clock,s when being in 61/2 fathom water we tack'd and lay her head off untill day light, at which time we saw the land bearing NwBw distant about 4 Leagues. We now made sail and Steer'd wsw and than wBs, but coming into 51/2 fm we hauld off sw untill we depend our water to 8 fm, we than kept away wBs and West having 9 fm water and the land just in sight from the deck, which we judge'd not to [be] above 3 or 4 Leagues off as it is every where exceeding low. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 8o 38' s, Longde 222o 34' west. <1St Bartholomeo>1 Isle bore N 69o East distt 74 Ms. FRIDAY 31<1st.>1 Between 12 and 1 in the PM steerd WNW in which time we shoalen'd our water from 8 to 51/2 fathoms, which I thought was little enough and therefore kept away again west and soon depen'd to 7 fathom, which depth we kept untill 6 o'Clock having the Land just in sight from the deck; at this time the western extreme bore North distant about 4 Leagues and Seem'd to end in a point and Turn away to the northward. We took it to be <1Point St Augustine>1 or <1Walsche Caep,>1s Latitude 8o 24' S, Longde 222o 55' W. We now shortend sail and hauld of ssw and SBW having the wind at SE and SEBE a gentle breeze; we stood off 16 Miles having from 7 to 27 fathom deepening gradually as we run off. At Midnight we Tack'd and stood in untill daylight, at which time we could see no land and yet we had only 51/2 fathom water. We now steer'd Nw having the same depth of water untill near 9 oClock, when we began to deepen our water to 61/2 [407 and 7 fathom; by this I thought that we were far enough to the west- ward of the Cape and might haul to the northward with safety which we now did having the wind at NEBE a light breeze. By Noon we had increased our water to 9 fathom and were by observation in the Latitude of 8o10' s, which was 1o Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log, by which I conjecter'd that we had met with a strong Current seting round the Cape not only to the Northward but to the Westward also, otherwise we ought to have seen the land which we did not. [SEPTEMBER 1770] SATURDAY 1<1st.>1 In the PM and most part of the night had a fresh [breeze] from the SE, with which we kept standing in for the land NE and ENE Close upon a wind untill half an hour past 6 o'Clock, when we anchor'd in 41/2 fathom water a Soft Muddy bottom as we have every where found upon the Coast; about an hour before we Anchord we saw the land from the Mast head extending from EBN to SSE all very low. At the time we Anchor'd we found a small dream of a Tide Seting away to the NW which continued untill 2 oClock in the Morning, when the water had fell 9 feet or better: this Tide of Ebb was than succeeded by the Flood which came from the sw, yet we did not find the water to rise much upon a perpendicular or else the greatest fall of the Tide had not been well attended to in the night, for at 6 oClock when we got under sail we had no more than 3 fathom under the Ship and yet we could not see the land from the deck. After geting under sail we stood to the northward with a light breeze at East and deepen'd our water by noon to 1o fathom, having the land just in sight from the Mast head to the SE. At this time were in the Latitude of 7o 39' S, Longitude 222o 42' West. Pt St Augustine bore S 10o W dist 15 Leagues. SUNDAY 2<1nd.>1 In the PM had it calm untill 2 o'Clock, when a light breeze sprung up at NBE and we stood in for the Land EBN untill 5 oClock, at which time we got the wind from the sw a light breeze with which we steer'd NE edgeing in for the land, having it in s from the deck and which I judged to be about 3 or 4 Leagues off being all very low-Land. Found the Variation to be 2o 34' East and a little before 8 o'Clock having but little wind we Anchord in 7 fathom water a soft Muddy bottom. In the After-noon and Evening we saw several Sea Snakes some of which the People in the Boat along side took up by hand. At Day light in the Mor[n]ing we got under sail and Stood away to the NNE having a fresh gale at East, which by 408] Noon brought us into the Latitude of 7o 14' S, Longd 222o 30' W. Depth of water 13 fathom. Course and distance saild sence yesterday Noon is N 24o East 27 miles, having at this time no land in sight for the land according to the Charts trends more Easterly than the wind would permit us to sail. MONDAY 3<1rd.>1 Steer'd NBE with a fresh breeze at EBN untill 7 oClock in the evening when the wind came to sEBs, with which we kept stand- ing to the Eastward close upon a wind all night, having from 17 to Io fathom Water pretty even soundings. At Day light we saw the Land extending from NBE to sE, distant about 4 Leagues. We still kept stand'g in for the land having the advantage of a fresh gale at EsE and EBs untill near 9 oClock, when being about 3 or 4 Miles off and in 3 fathom water we brought too and I went a shore in the Pinnace accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, having a mind to land once in this Country before we quit it altogether which I now am determined to do without delay; for I found that it is only spending time to little purpose and carrying us far out of our way staying upon this coast, which is so shallow that we can hardly keep within sight of land. At the time we put offfrom the Ship we saw not the least sign of Inhabitants but we had no sooner landed than we saw the print of Mens feet fresh upon the Sand, and a little way farther we found a small shade or hutt about which lay green shells of Cocoa-nutts, by this we were well assured that the Inhabitants were not far off: Nay we thought we heard their Voices in the woods which were so close and thick that we did not think it safe to venture in for fear of an ambuscade, as we had only a boats crew with us, a part of which was left to look after the boat which lay above a 1/4 of a Mile from the shore. We therefore took a walk along the Sea beach but had not gone above 200 Yards before we were attacked by 3 or 4 Men who came out of the woods a little before us, but upon our immidiatly fireing upon them they retired; finding that we could not search the Country with any degree of safety we returnd to the boat and was follow'd by 60 or as some thought about 100 of the natives who had advance'd in small parties out of the woods, but they suffer'd us to go to our boat without giving us any trouble. We had now time to View them Attentively, we thought them to be about the Size and Colour of the New-Hollanders with short crop'd hair and quite naked like them. I thought these of a lighter Colour but that might be owing to a whitish Pigment with which we thought their bodies were painted because some appear'd darker than others; their Arms were ordinary darts about 4 feet long made of a kind of Reed and pointd at one end with hard wood, but what appear'd most extraordinary to [409 us was something they had which caused a flash of fire or smook, very much like the going off of a Pistol or smI Gun but without any report, the deception was so great that the People in the Ship actualy thought that they had fire arms, indeed they seem'd to use these things in imitation of such for the moment the first man we saw made his appearence he fired off one of these things, and while we lay looking at them in the boat 4 or 5 would let them offall at once which had all the appearences in the world of Volleys of Small Arms; but I am confident that nothing came from them but smook, but by what means this was done or what purpose it answer'd we were not able to guess. I thought the Combustible matter was containd in a Reed or peice of small Bamboo which they gave a swing round in the hand and caused it to go off.s This place lies in the Latitude of 6o15' s, about 65 Leagues to the NE of <1Pt S. Augustine>1 or <1Walsche Caep,>1 and is near to what is call'd in the Charts by the long name of <1C. de la Colta de>1 Sa <1Bonaventura.>1s The land is very low like every other part of the Coast we have seen, here it is thick and Luxuriously cloathed with woods and Verdure all of which appear green and flourishing; here were Cocoa-nutt Trees, Bread fruit Trees and Plantain trees, but we saw no fruit but on the former and these were small and green; the other trees, shrubs, plants &ca were likewise such as iss common in the <1South-Sea Islands>1 and in <1New-Holland.>1 Upon my return to the Ship we hoisted in the boat and made sail to the Westward with a design to leave the Coast altogether to the no small satisfaction of I beleive the Major part ofs Ships com- pany.s However it was contrary to the inclination and opinion of some 410] of the officers, who would have had me send a party of men a shore to cut down the Cocoa-nutt Trees for the sake of the Nutts, a thing that I think no man leiving could have justified; for as the Natives and attack'd us for meer landing without takeing away any one thing, certainly they would have made a vigorous effort to have defended their property, in which case many of them must have been kill'd and perhaps some of our own people too--and all this for 2 o[r] 300 green Cocoa-nutts which when we had got them would have done us little service, besides nothing but the u[t]most necessity would have oblige'd me to have taken this Method to come at refreshments. Its true I might have proceeded farther a long the Coast to the northward and westward untill we had found a place where the Ship could lay so near the shore as to cover the people with her guns when landed, but it is very probable that before we had found such a place we should have been carried so far to the West as to have been obliged to have gone to Batavi by the way of the Moluccas and on the North side of Java, where we were all utter strangers: this I did not think was so Safe a Passage as to go to the South of Java and through the Straights of Sunda, the way I propose to my selfto go; besides as the ship is leaky we are not yet sure whether or no we shall not be obliged to heave her down at Batavi; in this case it becomes the more necessary that we should make the best of our way to that place, especially as no new discovery can be expected to be made in those seas which the <1Dutch>1 have I beleive long ago narrowly examined, as appears from 3 Maps bound up with the French History of Voyages to the <1Terra Australis,>1s published in 1756, which Maps I do suppose by some means have been got from the Dutch as we find the names of many of the places are in that Language. It should likewise seem from the same Maps that the Spaniards and Dutch have at one time or a nother circumnavigated the whole of the Island of <1New Guinea>1 as the most of the names are in these two Languages, and such part of the Coast as we were upon I found the Chart tolerable good, which [411 obliges me to give some Credit to all the rest notwithstanding we neither know by whome or when they were taken, and I allways understood before I had a sight of these Maps that it was unknown whether or no New-Holland and New-Guinea was not one continued land,s and so it is said in the very History of Voyages these Maps are bound up in: however we have now put this wholy out of dispute, but as I beleive it was known before tho' not publickly I clame no other merit than the clearing up of a doubtfull point. A nother doubtfull point I should liked to have clear'd up, altho it is of very little if of any concequence, which is whether the Natives of <1New->1 <1Holland>1 and those of <1New-Guinea>1 are or were original one People, which one might well suppose as these two Countries lay so near to each other and the intermediate space fill'd up with Islands; on the other hand if these Two People have or ever had any friendly com- munication with each other, it seems strange as I have before ob- served that they should not have transplanted from <1New-Guinea>1 over to <1New Holland,>1 Cocoa-nutts, Bread fruit, Plantains &ca &ca, all very usefull Articles for the support of man that we never saw grow in the latter and which we have now seen in the former. <1La Maire>1 hath given us a Vocabulary of words spoke by the people of <1New-Brittain>1 (which before <1Dampiers>1 time was taken to be a part of <1New Guinea)>1 by which it appears that the people of New-brittain speak a very different Language from those of New-Holland. Now should it be found that the Natives of New-Britain and those of New Guiney have had one Origin and speake the same Language, it will follow of Course that the New-Hollanders are a different people from both. TUESDAY 4<1th.>1 Stood to the westward all this Day, having at first a Moderate breeze Southerly which afterward freshen'd and Veer'd to SE and ESE. We kept in soudning all the time having from 14 to 30 fathom, not regular but some times more and some times less. At Noon we were in 14 fathom and by observation in the Latitude of 6"44' s, Longitude 223o51' West. Course and Distance Saild sence yesterday Noon s 76o west, 120 Miles. WEDNESDAY <15th.>1 Winds at EBS and SEBE a fresh gale and clear weather, with which we run <11>1 I8 Miles upon a s 69oI5' west Course, which at Noon brought us into the Latitude of 7o25' s, Longitude 225o41' West, depth of water 28 fathoms, having been in soundings the whole of this Days Run generaly between 10 and 20 fathoms. At 412] half an hour past one in the Morning we past by a small low Island which bore from us at that time NNw distant 3 or 4 Miles, depth of water 14 fathom, and at Day light we discover'd another low Island extending from NNw to NNE distant 2 or 3 Leagues: I beleive I should have landed upon this Island to have known its produce as it did not appear to be very small, had not the wind blown too fresh for such an undertaking and at the time we pass'd the Island we had only 1o fathom water a rocky bottom, I was therefore afraid of runing down to leeward for fear of meeting with shoal water and foul ground. These Islands have no place in the Charts unless they are the <1Arrow>1 <1Isles,>1s which if they are they are laid down much too far from New- Guiney; I found the South part of these to lay in the Latds 7o6' s, Longde 225o0' West. THURSDAY 6<1th.>1 A Steady fresh gale at EBs and clear weather with which we steerd wsw. At 7 oClock in the evening we took in the small Sails, Reef'd the Topsails and sounded having 5o fathom water. We still kept wsw all night going at the rate of 41/2 Miles an hour; at 10 oClock had 42 fm, 11 oClock 37, 12 oClock 45, 1 oClock 49 and at 3 oClock 120 fathom, after which we could get no ground. In the Evening we caught 2 Boobies which settled upon the rigging and these were the first of these Birds we have caught in this Manner the Voyage, altho I have heard of them being caught this way in great numbers.s At day light in the Morning we made all the sail we could and at 10 o'Clock saw land extending from NNW to wBN distant 5 or 6 Leagues. At Noon it bore from North to west and about the same distance, our Latitude by observation was 8o 15' s, Longde 227o 47' w. This Land is of an even and moderate height and by our run from New Guinea ought to be a part of the <1Arow Isles,>1 but it lays a Degree farther to the South than any of these Islands are laid down in the Charts.s We sounded but had no ground with 50 fathoms of line.s FRIDAY 7<1th.>1 As I was not able to satisfy myself from any Chart what land it was we saw to Leeward of us, and fearing that it might trend away more Southerly and the weather being hazey so that we could [413 not see far, we steerd sw which Course by 4 oClock run us out of sight of the land, by this I was assured that no part of it lay to the Southward of 8o15' s. We continued standing to the SW all night under an easy sail having the Advantage of a fresh gale at SEBE and ESE and clear Moon light, we sounded every hour but had no bottom with 100 and 120 fathoms of line. At Day light in the Morning we steerd wsw and after wards WBS, which by Noon brought us into the Latitude of 9o 30' s and Longde 229o 34' West, and by our Run from New-Guinea ought to have been withins sight of <1Wessels>1s <1Isle,>1 which according to the Charts is laid down about 20 or 25 Leagues from the Coast of New-Holland. But we saw nothing by which I conclude that it is wrong laid down, and this is not to be wonderd at when we consider that not only these Islands but the lands which bounds this sea have been discover'd and explor'd by different people and at different times, and compiled and put together by others, perhaps some ages after the first discoveries were made. Navigators formely wanted many of the helps towards keeping an accurate journal which the present Age is possess'd of: it is not they that are wholy to blame for the faultiness of the Charts, but the Compilers and Pub- lishers who publish to the world the rude sketches of the Navigator as accurate surveys without telling what authority they have for so doing, for were they to do this we should be than as good or better judges than they and know where to depend upon the Charts and where not. Neither can I clear Seamen of this fault among the few I have known who are Capable of drawing a Chart or sketch of a Sea Coast, I have generally, nay almost always observed them run into this error; I have known them lay down the line of a Coast they never have seen and put down soundings where they never have sounded, and after all are so fond of their performences as to pass'ds the whole off as sterling under the Title of a <1Survey Plan>1 &ca. These things must in time be attended with bad concequences and can not fail of bringing the whole of their works into disrepute. If he is so modest as to say such and such parts or the whole of his Plan is difective, the publishers or venders will have it left out because they say it hurts the sale of the work, so that between the one and the other we can hardly tell when we are posessed of a good Sea Chart untill we our selves have proved it.s 414] SATURDAY 8<1th.>1 Winds Easterly with a high Sea from the same quarter. Our Course and distance saild this 24 hours is s 86o 30' West 102 miles. Latitude in 9o 36'S, Longitude 231o 17' West. SUNDAY 9<1th.>1 Light Airs and clear weather the Most part of this 24 hours. In the Evening found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 0o 12' West and by the Ampds 0o 5' West. At Noon we were by Ob- servation in the Latitude of 9o 46' S, Longds 232o 7' West. Course and distance sail'd sence yesterday Noon S 78o 45' W 52 miles. For these Two Days past we have steer'd due west and yet we have by observa- tion made 16 Miles southing, 6 Miles yesterday and 10 to Day, from which it should seem that there is a Current seting to the Southward and westward withall as I should suppose. MONDAY 10<1th.>1 Light Airs Easterly except in morning when we had it at North. At Sun set [found] the Variation to be 0 o2' West at the same time saw, or thought we saw very high Land bearing NW and in the Morning saw the same appearences of Land in the same quarter which left us no room to doubt but what it was Land and must be either the Island of Timor land or Timor but which of the two I cannot as yet determine. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 10o 1' S, which was 15 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. Longitude in Pr observation 233o 27' West. TUESDAY 11<1th.>1 Variable Light airs and clear weather. Steerd Nw in order [to] discover the Land planer until 4 oClock in the Morng, at which time the wind came to the NW and west with which we stood to the southward untill 9 oClock, when we Tack'd and stood NW having the wind at WSW. At sun rise in the Morning we could see the land extend from WNW to NE. At Noon we could see it extend to the west- ward as far as WBS1/2S, but no further to the Eastward than NBE; we were now well assured that this was part of the Island of Timor, in concequence of which the last Island we saw must have been Timor land the south part of which lies in the Latitude of 8o 15' S, Longitude 228o 10' West, whereas in the Charts the South point is laid down in Latitude 9o 30'.s It is possible that the Land we saw might be some [415 other Island, but than I cannot See how we could have miss'd seeing Timor land supposeing it to be right laid down in Latitude, as we never were to the Southward of 9o 30'; for my design was to have made that Island and to have Landed upon it to have seen what it produced as it is (according to the Charts) a large Island and not settled by the Dutch that I ever heard off. We were now in the Latitude of 9o 37' S, Longitude 233o 54' W by observation of the Sun and Moon, and Yester[day] we were by Observation in 233o 27' W; the dif- ference is 27' which is exactly the same as what the Log gave. Thus however is a degree of accuracy in observation that is seldom to be expected.s WEDNESDAY 12<1th.>1 Winds between the s & w a light breeze and clear weather. In the PM stood in shore untill 8 oClock, than Tack'd and Stood off being about 3s Leagues from the Land, which at dark extend[ed] from SW1/2W to NE, at this time we Sounded and had no ground with 140 fathoms of line being not above 4 Leagues from the Land. At 12 oClock we Tack'd and Stood in having but little wind and continued so untill Noon, At which time we were by observation in Latitude 9o36' s; the Log this 24 hours gave 18 Miles westing but it did not appear by the Land that we had made so much. We saw several smooks upon the Land by Day and fires in the Night. THURSDAY 13<1th.>1 Stood in shore with a light breeze at SBW untill 1/2 past 5 oClock in the PM, when being a mile and a half from the Shore and in 16 fathom water we tack'd and Stood off; at this time the extremes of the Land extended from NEBE to WBS1/2S, this last was a low point distant from us about 3 Leagues. We were right before a small creek or Inlet into the Low-land which lies in the Latitude of 9o34' s. Probably it might be the same as Dampier went into in his boat for it did not seem to have depth of water sufficient for any thing else.s In standing in shore we sounded Several times but found no Soundings untill we got within 21/2 Miles of the shore, where we had 25 fathom a soft bottom. We stood off Shore untill 12 oClock with the wind at South, than Tack'd and Stood to the westw hours, when the Wind Veer'd to the SW and WSW and than we stood 416] to the Southward. In the Morning found the Variation to be 1o10' W by the Ampd and by the Azimuth 1o 27' W. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 9o 45' s, Longitude 234o 12' West, and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Land which extended from N 31o E to WSW1/2W. Winds at SSW a Gentle breeze.s FRIDAY 14<1th.>1 Light Land and Sea breezes, the former we had from the WBN and only a few hours in the Morning, the latter we had from the SSW and South. With these winds we advanced but slowly to the westward. At Noon we were about 6 or 7 Leags from the Land, which extended from NBE to s 78o West, our Latitude by observation was 9o 54' S Course and distance Saild sence yester Noon s 68o W 24 Miles. We saw several smookes a shore in the PM and fires in the night, both upon the Low-land and up in the Mountains.s SATURDAY 15<1th.>1 In the PM had the Sea breeze at SSW and South, with which we stood to the westward untill 8 oClock, when being about 3 Leagues from the Land and having very little wind we tack'd and lay her head off shore. At 11 oClock we got the Land wind at North by west, with which we steer'd SWBW along shore keeping about 4 or 5 Miles from the land, on which in the Morning we saw several houses, Plantations &ca. At 9 oClock we got the wind at NEBE a light breeze. At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the land which extended as far to the Southward as SWBW, our Latitude by observa- tion was 10o 1' S. Course and distance Saild sence Yesterday at Noon S 78o 45' W 36 miles. SUNDAY 16<1th.>1 Light breezes from the NEBE with Clear weather, except in the Morning when we had it clowdy with a few small showers of Rain. Steerd along shore SW and SWBW untill 6 oClock in the Morning when we Steerd WSW and at 9 oClock west, at which time we saw the Island <1Rotte>1s right ahead. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 10o 39' S, Longde 235o 57': the South end of Timor bore NNW distant 5 or 6 Leagues, the Island of Rotte extending from S 75o W to N 67' West and the Island of <1Anaboa>1 as Dampier calls it, or <1Seman>1 as it is call'd in the Charts, which lies off the South end of [417 Timor bore NW.s Course and distance Saild sence yesterday Noon S 55o 15' W67 Miles.s <1Dampier>1 who has given us a large and so far as I know an Accurate description of the Island of <1Timor,>1s says that it is seventy leagues long and sixteen broad and that it lies nearly NE and SW. I found the East side to lie nearest NEBE and SWBW and the South end to lie in the Latitude of 10o 23' S, Longitude 236o 5' West from Greenwich. We run about 45 Leagues along the East side which I observed to be free from danger, and excepting near the South end the Land which bounds the Sea is low for 2, 3 or 4 Miles inland, and seem'd in many places to be intersected with salt Creeks, behind the low land are mountains which rise one above another to a consid We continualy saw upon it smooks by Day and fires in the night and in many places houses and plantations. I was strongly importune'd by some of my officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia on this Island for refreshments, but this I refuse'd to comply with, knowing that the Dutch look upon all Europeans with a jealous eye that come a mong these Islands, and our necessities wer great to oblige me to put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated.s MONDAY 17<1th.>1 Winds Easterly a fresh breeze with which we Steer'd WNW untill 2 o'Clock when being pretty near the North end of <1Rotte>1 we hauld up NNW in order to go between it and <1Anaboa,>1 after steering 3 Leagues upon this Course we edge'd away Nw and west and by 6 oClock we were clear of all the Islands; at this time the South part of <1Anaboa,>1 which lies in the Latitude of 10o1 5' S, bore NE distant 4 Leaga, and the Island of <1Rotte>1 extending as far to the Southward as S 36o West. The North end of this Island and the south end of Timor lies N1/2E and s1/2W distant about 3 or 4 Leags from each other. At the West end of the Passage between <1Rotte>1 and <1Anaboa>1 are two small Islands, the one lays near the Rotte shore and the other off the SW point of Anaboa,s there is a good Channell between the two of 5 or 6 Miles broad which we came through. Being now clear of the Islands we steer'd a west Course all night 418] untill 6 o'Clock in the Morning when we unexpectedly saw an Island bearing WSW, for by the most of the Maps we had on board we were to the southward of all the Islands that lay between <1Timor>1 and <1fava,>1 at least there were none laid down so near to Timor in this Latitude by almost one half, which made me at first think it a new discovery but in this I was Mistaken.s We now steer'd directly for it and by 10 oClock were close in with the North side where we saw Houses, Cocoa-nutt Trees and Flocks of Cattle grazing. These were temta- tions hardly to be withstood by people in our Situation, especially such as were but in a very indifferent state of health and I may say mind too, for in some this last was worse than the other sence I refuse'd to touch at the Island of Timor. Wherefore I thought I could not do less than to try to procure some refres[h]ments here as there appear'd to be plenty; with this View we hoisted out the Pinnace in which I sent Lieutt Gore in shore to see if there were any convenient place to land, sending some trifles along with him to give to the Natives in case he saw any. Mr Gore Landed in a small sandy Cove near to some houses and was met on the beach by 8 or 10 of the Natives, who both from their behavour and what they had about them shew'd that they had commerce with Europeans; upon Mr Gore's returning with this report and like wise that there was no anchorage for the Ship I sent him away again with both Mony and goods to try to purchas some refreshments while we kept standing on and off with the Ship. At Noon we were about a Mile from the Shore of the Island which extend[ed] from SSE to WNW. Latitude in 10o 27', Longde 237o 31' West. TUESDAY 18<1th.>1 As soon as Mr Gore Landed he was met on the beach by several people both Horse and Foot who gave him to understand that there was a Bay to Leeward where we could Anchor and like- wise get refreshments, upon Mr Gores return with this intelligence we bore away for the Bay, in which we anchord at 7 oClock in 38 fathom water a Clean Sandy bottom about a Mile from shore. The North point of the Bay bore N 30o East 21/2 Miles and the South point or West end of the Island bore S 63o West. Two hours before we Anchor'd we saw Dutch Colours hoisted in a Village which stands about a Mile inland and at Day-light in the Morning the same Colours were hoisted on the beach abreast of the Ship: by this I was no longer in doubt but what here was a Dutch Settlement and accordingly sent Lieutt Core a shore to wait upon the Governor or Chief person residing here, to acquaint him with the reasons that [419 induce'd us to touch at this Island. Upon Ms Gores landing we could see that he was received by a guard of the Natives and not Dutch Troops and conducted up to the Village where the Colours were hoisted last night. Sometime after this I received a Message from him acquainting me that he was then with the King of the Island, who had told him that he could not supply us with any thing without leave from the Dutch Governor who resided at a nother part of the Island, but that he had sent to acquaint him of our arrival and request. WEDNESDAY 19<1th.>1 At 2 oClock in the PM the Dutch Governor and King of this part of the Islands with his attendance came on board with Mr Gore (he having left two gentlemen a shore as hostages). We entertaind them at dinner in the best Manner we could, gave them plenty of good Liquor, made them some considerable presents and at their going away saluted them with 9 Guns. In return for these favour[s] they made many fair promises that we should be immideatly furnished with every thing we wanted at the same price the Dutch East India Company had it, and that in the Morning Buffaloes, Hogs Sheep &ca should be down on the beach for us to look at and agree upon a price. I was not attall at a loss for Interpreters for both Ds Solander and Mr Sporing understood Dutch enough to keep up a conversation with the Dutchman, and several of the Natives could speak Portuguese which Language two or 3 of my people understood. In the Morning I went aShore accom- pined by Ms Banks and sever[al] of the Officers and Gentlemen to return the Kings Viset, but my chief business was to see how well they woulds perform their promises in regard to the things I wanted. We had not been long a shore before we found that they had pro- mised more than they ever intended to perform for intended to perform, for instead of finding Buffaloes down upon the beach we did not so much as see one or the least preparations making for bringing any down by either the Dutch Factor or the King,s the former pretended he had been very ill all night and told us that he had had a letter from the Governor of Concordia in Timor acquainting him that a ship (meaning us) had lat[e]ly pas'd that Island, and that if she should touch at this and be in want of any thing he was to supply her, but he was not to suffer 420] her to make any stay nor to distribute or leave behind her to be distributed any Valliable presents to the Inferior Natives; this we look'd upon to be a fiction that hardly Answerd any purpose, unleas it was leting us see how the Dutch had insinuated themselves into favour with these people which never could be his intention. However both he and the King still promised we should have what we wanted, but pretended that the Buffaloes were far in the Country and could not be brought down before night, with these excuse's we dere oblige'd to be satisfied. The King gave us a dinner of boild Pork and Rice, served up in baskets after their Manner and Palm wine to drink, with this and some of our own Liquor we fair'd tolerable well. After we had dined our servants were call'd in to pertake of what remaind which was more than they could eat. THURSDAY 20<1th.>1 We stay'd at the Kings Pallace all the After noon and at last were obliged to return on board without doing any thing, any farther than a promise of having some Buffaloes in the Morning, which we now had no great reason to rely on. In the Morning I went a shore again and was shew'd one small Buffaloe which they ask'd five Guines for. I offer'd three which the Man told me he would gladly take and sent a message to the King to let him know what I had offerd, the mesenger soon return'd and let me know that I could not have it under five guines and this I refuse'd to give knowing that it was not worth one fifth part of the mony, but this my refusal had like to have over set all we had before done, for soon after about a 100 Men, some arm'd with Musquets other with Lances came down to the Landing place; besides the officer that commanded this party there came along with them a Man who spoke Portuguese and was I beleive born of Portugue Parents, this man is here (as we afterwards understood) as an Assistant to the Dutch factor; he deliver'd to me the Kings order, or rather those of the Dutch Factor, the purport of which was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pretending that the people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for nothing &ca, whereas the Natives shewed the greatest inclination imaginable to supply us with what ever they had and were far more desirous of goods than Mony, and were before this man came selling us Fowls and Syrrup as fast as they could bring these things down; from this and other circumstances we were well assure'd that this was all the Dutchmans doing in order to extort from us a sum of Mony to put into his own pockets. There happen'd to be an old Rajas at this time upon the beach whose Intrest I had secure'd in [421 the Morning by presenting him with a Spy glass, this man I now took by the hand and presented him with an old broad sword, this effectually secure'd him in our Intrest for the Moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese and made him and the officer that commanded the party to set down at his backside. Emmidiatly after this trade was restored again for fowls &ca with more spirit than ever, but before I could begin a Trade for Buffaloes which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give 10 guines for two one of which weigh'd only 160 pounds. After this I bought 7 More at a More reasonable price one of which we lost after he was paid for.s I might now have purchas'd as Many Buffaloes as I pleas'd for they now drove them down to the water side by Herds, but having got as many as I well know'd what to do with and likewise a number of Fowles and a Large quantity of Syrrup, I resolved to make no longer stay. Accordingly in the Morng ons FRIDAY <121st.>1 We got under sail and stood away to the westward along the north side of the Island and a nother smaller Island which lies farther to the westwards which last bore from us at Noon SSE distant 2 Leagues. Before we proceed any farther it will be proper in this place to say [some]thing of the Island we have been last at which is call'd by the Natives <1Savu.>1 The Middle of it lies in about the Latde of 10o 35' S, Longde 237o 30' W; it may be about 8 Leagues in length from East to West but of what breadth I know not because I only saw the north side. There are as I am told three bays where Ships can Anchor, the best is on the South West side of the SE point, the one we lay in call'd <1Seba>1 lies on the NW side of the Island, this bay is very well shelter'd from the SE Trade wind but lays wholy open to the NW. The Land of this Island which bounds the Sea is in general low, but in the Middle of the Island are Hills of a Moderate height, and the whole is agreeably deversified with woods and Lawns which affords a most pleasing prospect from the sea. We were told that the Island is but indifferently water'd in the dry season, especially towards the latter end of it, at which time there is no runing stream upon the whole 422] Island, only small springs which are all at a distance from the Sea side. The dry season commences in March or April and ends in November; the remaining 3 or 4 Months they have westerly winds with rain and this is the time that their crops of Rice, Callivancess and Indian Corn are brought forth which are Articles that this Island produceth, they also breed a great number of Cattle (viz) Buffaloes, Horses, Hogs, Sheep and Goats. Many of the former are sent to Concordia, where they are Kill'd and salted in order to be sent to the More Northern Island[s] which are under the dominion of the Dutch. Sheep and Goats flesh is dried upon this Island, packe'd up in Bales and sent to Concordia for the same purpose. The Dutch Resident, from whome we had these informations, told us that the Dutch at Concordia had lately behav'd so ill to the Natives of Timor that they were obliged to have recourse to this Island and others adjacent for provisions for their own subsistance, and likewise Troops (Natives of this Island) to assist the Dutch againest those of Timor. Besides the above productions here are an emmence Number of Palm Trees from which is extracted the Palm Wine, as it is call'd, a very sweet agreeable Cooling liquor, what they do not emmidiatly use they boil down and make Syrrup or Sugar of which they keep in earthen jarrs. Here are likewise Cocoa-nutts and Tamarind Trees, Limes &ca but in no great plenty; Indico, Cotton and Cinnamon sufficient to Serve the Natives, this last Article we were told the Dutch discourage the growth of. The Island is divided into five Kingdoms which have lived in Peace and Amity with each other for these hundred years. At present the Whole Island is partly under the direction ofthe Dutch East India Company who have a Resident or Factor who constantly lives here, without whose leave the Natives are not to supply any other Nation with any thing what ever, but the whole product of the Island besides what serves themselves is in a manner the property of the Company.s The Company by way of a Tribute oblige them to raise and pay Annualy a certain quantity of Rice, Indian Corn and Callivances, for which the Company make each of the Kings a Yearly present of a Cask of Arrack and some other trifles, the live stock Sheep and Goats flesh &ca they pay for in Goods. The small [423 Island which lies about a League to the westward of this pays Annualy a certain quantity of Areca Nutts which is allmost the only produce of that Island. The Island of <1Rotte>1 is upon the same footing as this of <1Savu.>1 Both these Islands and the <1Three Solors>1s belong to the Government of Concordia. From what we could learn of the Island of Timor it seems to be much upon the same footing as it was in Pampiers time, which is that the Dutch Posess little more of that Island than what lies under the command of the Fort Concordia, the Rest is in posession either of the Native Indians or the Portuguese; we were likewise told that the Island of <1Ende>1 belongs to the Portu- guese, that the principal settlement is at <1Larentucka>1 where there is a Fort and a good harbour.s We were told that Concordia on the Island Timor is a free Port for Ships of any Nation to touch at where they would not only be supplied with refreshments but Naval stores also. Tradeing Ships might probably meet with a good reception, but Kings Ships I am perswaided would be look'd upon as spys. For my own part was I only in want of refreshments and obliged to touch at any of these Islands I should prefer going to a Portuguese settlement before any of the Dutch, and when I was solicited by the officers to call at Timor I propose'd going to one of the Portuguese settlements, but this Ms Hicks made some objections to which was sufficient for me to lay it aside, as I had not the least inclination to touch any where till we arrived at Batavia, for my falling in with <1Savu>1 was mere chance and not design. But to return to this Island the Natives of which are of a dark brown Colour, with long lank hair, their cloathing is a peice of Calicoe or other Cotton cloth wraped about their Middle, the better sort have a nother peice which they wear over their Shoulders and the most of them wear Turbands or had kerchiefs ty'd round their heads. They eat of all the tame Animals they have got, viz. Hoggs, Horses, Buffaloes, Cocks and Hens, Dogs, Catts, Sheep and Goats and are esteem'd much in the same order as I have mentioned-- that is their Hogs flesh, which is certainly as good as any in the World, they prefer before any thing else, next to Hoggs, Horses and so on. Fish is not esteemd by them and is only eat by the Common or poor people who are allow'd little else of meat kind. They have a custom among them that when ever a King dies all the Cattle &ca that are 424] upon his Estate are kill'd, with which the successor makes a feast to which are invited all the principal people of the Island, who stay untill all is consumed; After this they every one according to his abillities make the Young King a present, by which mea[n]s he gets a fresh stock which he is obliged to husband for some time. The other principal men make also feasts which are as extraordinary as these, for they seldom end so long as the giver has got any thing left alive upon his Estate. They are said to be a people of good morals, Virtu- ous and Chaste, each man having only one wife which he keeps for life; Fornication and Adultery is hardly known among them. When a great Man Marries he makes presents to all his wifes Relations of European and other foreign commodities to the Value of 100 Rix- Dollars, this custom the Dutch East India Company find it their intrest to incourage. They speake a Language peculiar to themselves into which the Dutch have caused the New-Testaments to be Translated and have interduced it with the use of letters and writing among them; by this means several hundreds of them have been converted to Christianity, the rest are some Heathens, and others of no Religion att all and yet they all Stick up to the strickds rules of Morality. They all both men and women Young and old Chew of the Beetle Leaf, Areca Nutts, and a sort of white lime which I beleive is made from Coral Stone: this has such an effect upon the teeth that very few even of the young people have hardly any left in their heads and those they have are as black as Ink. Their houses are built on post[s] about 4 feet from the Ground, we ask'd the reason why they built them so, and was told that it was only custom. They are however certainly the Cooler for it. They are thatched with Palm leaves, and the Floor and sides are boarded. The Man who resides upon this Island in behalf of the Dutch East India Company is a German by birth, his name is Johan Christopher Lange. It is hard to say upon what footing he is here, he is so far a Governor that the Natives dar[e] do nothing openly without his consent, and yet he can transact no sort of business with Foreigner's either in his own or that of the Companys name, nor can it be a place of either honour or profit; he is the only white man upon the Island and has resided there ever sence it hath been under the direction of the Dutch which is about 10 years. He is allowd 50 Slaves (Natives of the Island) to attend upon him, these belong to and are Mentaind by the Company. He goes the circuit of the Island once in two Months, but on what account he did not tell us; when he [425 makes these rounds he carries with him a certain quantity of spiret to treat the great men with, which he says he is obliged to look well after otherwise the[y] would steal it and get Drunk; and yet at a nother time he told us that he never know'd a theft commited in the Island, but some of the Natives themselves contridicted him in this by stealing from us an Ax. However from their behavour to us in general I am of opinion that they are but seldom guilty of these crimes. His going round the Island once in Two Months is most lik[e]ly to see that the Natives make the necessary preparations for fullfilling their engagements with the Dutch, and to see that the Large boats or small Vessels are taken proper care of which the Dutch keep in all the Bays of this Island, in order to collect and carry the Grain &ca to the Ship which comes Anualy here; they are like- wise employ'd in carrying Catle grain &ca to Timor and when not wanted they are hauld ashore into Houses or Shads built on purpose. As I have mentioned Slaves it is necessary to Observe that all the great Men have slaves, which are the Natives of the Island; they can dispose of them one to a nother but cannot sell them to go out of the Island, the price of a Slave is a good large fatt Hogg, Horse &ca. I have before mentioned that many of the people can speake Portu- guese, but hardly any one Dutch: from this it is probable that this Island was formerly under the jurisdiction of the Portuguese, tho the Dutch Governor never own'd as much but said that the Dutch had Traded here these hundred years past.s SATURDAY 22<1nd>1. Winds at SSE, SE and East a gentle breeze, whichs we steer'd WSW by Compass. At 4 oClock we discover'd a small low Islands bearing SSW distant 3 Leagues, this Island hath no place in any of our charts. Latde 10o 47', Longd 238o 28' West. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 110 9' S, Longitude 238o 56's West. Course and distance saild sence Yesterday Noon s 63o West 67 miles. 426] SUNDAY 23<1rd>1. Winds Easterly a Moderate breeze which by Noon brought us into the Latitude of 11o 10' S, Longitude 240o 38's West. Course and distance saild sence Yesterday at Noon is West 9os Miles. MONDAY 24<1th>1. Winds at East and SE a Moderate breeze and fine pleasent weather. In the Evening found the Variation to be 2o 44' West. At Noon our Latitude was 11o 8' S, Longitude 242o 23's West. Sence we have been clear of the Islands we have had constantly a swell from the Southward which I do not suppose is owning to the Winds b[l]owing any where from thence, but to the Sea being so determined by the position of the Coast of New-Holland. TUESDAY 25<1th.>1 Moderate breeze at sE and clear pleasent weather. At Noon our Latitude was 110 13' S and Longitude 244o 30's West. WEDNESDAY 26<1th.>1 Winds and weather as yesterday. At Noon Latitude in 110 10' S, Longitude 246o 31's W. THURSDAY 27<1th.>1 Winds at SSE a fresh breeze. In the evening found the Variation to be 3o10' West. At Noon we were in the Longitude of 249o 52's West and Latitude 10o 47' S, which is 25 Miles to the North- ward of the Log, which I know not how to account for. FRIDAY 28<1th.>1 Winds at SSE and SE a fresh breeze and clowdy with some Showers of Rain. At Noon Latitude Observed 10o 51' S, which is agreeable to the Logg, Longitude in 252o 11's West. SATURDAY 29<1th.>1 Moderate breezes at sE and clear pleasent weather. Steer'd Nw all this Day in order to make the Land of Java. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 9o 31' S and Longitude 254o 10's West. SUNDAY 30<1th.>1 Fresh gales and fair weather. In the AM I took into my posission the Officers, Petty officers and Seamens Log Books & journals, at least all that I could find and enjoyn'd every one not to divulge where they had been.s At Noon our Course and distance saild sence yesterday Noon is N 20o West 126 Miles, which brought us into the Latitude of 7o 34' and Longitude 255o 13's W. [427 [OCTOBER 1770] MONDAY 1<1st>1 Octs. First and latter parts fresh breezes at sE and fair weather, the Middle Squaly with Lightning and Rain. At 7 o'Clock in the PM, being then in the Latitude of <1fava Head>1 and not seeing any land assured us that we had got too far to the westward, upon which we hauld up ENE having before steerd NBE. At 12 oClock saw the Land bearing East. Tackd and stood to the SW untill 4 o'Clock than stood again to the Eastward having very unsettled Squally weather, which split the Main Topsail Very much and obliged us to bend the other, many of our sails are now so bad that they will hardly stand the least puff of wind. At 6 oClock Java head or the west end of Java bore SEBE distant 5 Leagues, soon after this saw Princes Island bearing E1/2S and at 10 oClock Saw the Island of Cracatoa bearing NE, this is a remarkable high Peaked Island which at Noon bore N 40 E distant 7 Leagues. Princes Island Extending from s 53o E to SBW Distant 3 Leagues. Course and Distance saild sence yesterday at Noon is N 24o 30' E 70 Miles. Latitude in ps observation 6o29' S, Longitude 254o 44's West. Note, in our run from Savou I have allow'd 20' per day for the westerly current which no doubt must run strong at this time of ye Year especially of the Coast of Java, this allowance I find Answers.s TUESDAY <12nd>1 Octs. In the PM had the wind at SSE and SEBS and SSE with which we stood to the Eastward close upon a wind. At 6 oClock the Hill on Princes Island bore swBs and Cracatoa Island North 10 Miles, in this situation had 58 fathom water; standing still to the Eastward at 8 oClock had 52 fathom a Muddy bottom; at 10, 23 fm. By 4 oClock in the Morning we fetched close in with the Java Shore in 15 fathom, than steer'd along shore. At 5 oClock it fell Calm which continued with some Variable light airs untill Noon, at which time Anger Point bore NE distant 1 League and Thwart the way Island North. In the Morning I sent a boat ashore to try to get some fruits for Tupia who is very ill, and likewise to get some grass &ca for the Buffaloes we have still left: the boat returnd with only 4 Cocoa- Nutts, a small bunch of Plantains which they purchased of the Natives for a Shilling and a few Shrubs for the Cattle. 428] WEDNESDAY 3<1d>1. Soon after 12 oClock it fell quite Calm which obliged us to anchor in 18 fm a muddy bottom about 2 Miles from shore where we found a Strong Current seting to the SW. Not long before we anchord we saw a Dutch Ship laying off Anger Point,on board which I sent Mr Hicks to inquire after news. Upon his return he inform'd me that there were Two Dutch Ships from Batavia the one bound to Ceylon and the other to the Coast of Mallabar, Packets, Letters &ca from all Dutch Ships to Batavia, but it seems more Probable that she is stationed here to examine all Ships that pass and repass these Streights. We now first heard the Agreeable News of His Majestys Sloop the Swallow being at Batavia about two years ago.s At 7 oClock a breeze sprung up at SSW with which we weigh'd and stood to the NE between Thward the way Island and the Cap.s Soundings from 18 to 26 fathom. We had but little wind all night and having a strong Current against us we got no farther by 8 oClock in the Morning than under <1Bantam Point>1,s at this time the Wind came to NE and obliged us to Anchor in 22 fathom about 2 Miles from the Shore, the above Point bore NEBE distant 1 League. In the Morning we saw the Dutch Packet Standing after us, but after the wind shifted to NE she bare away. One of the Dutch Captains told Mr Hicks Yesterday that the Current sets Constantly to the SW ward and that it would continue to set so for a Mo[n]th or Six Weeks longer. THUSDAY 4<1th>1. In the PM had the Wind at NEBN which obliged us to lay fast. About Six oClock in the Evening one of the Country boats Came a long side in which was the Commander of the Packet before Mentioned. He seem'd to have two Montives for Coming, the one to [429 take an account of the Ship and the other to sell us refreshments, for in the boat were Turtles, Fowls, Birds &ca, all of which they held at a pretty high price and had brought to a bad Market as our <1Savu>1 Stock was not yet expended. I gave a Spanish Dollor for a small Turtle which weighd only 36 pounds. With respect to the Ship he wanted to know her Name, the Captains, the place we came last from and where bound; I would not see him my self I ordered that no account should be given him from whence we came,s but Mr Hicks who wrote the Ships Name down in his Book put down from Europe, seeing this he express'd some surprise and said that we might write down what we pleas'd for it was of no other use than for the in- formation of such of our Countrymen as might pass these Sreights. At 7 oClock a light breeze sprung up at SSE with which we got under sail,, at 1 o'Clock in the Morning Anchord again having not wind to stem the Current which we found to run 3 Knotts. At 2 oClock we weighd again but finding that we lost ground we were obliged to Anchor in 18 fathom; the Island <1Pulo Morock>1 which lies Close under the Shore 3 Miles to the westward of <1Bantam Point>1, bore SEBS distant 1 1/2 Mile. Latitude Observed 5o 55' S. FRIDAY 5<1th>1. At 5 oClock in the PM we weigh'd with a light breeze at SWBS which continued not long before it fell Calm and obliged us to Anchor again. At 1 oClock we weigh'd with the Land wind at SSE which died away in the Morning and the Current runing strong againest us we Anchor[d] in 17 fathom. A little before this a Proe came along side wherein was a Dutch Officer who came upon the same business as the other he sent me down a printed paper in English Containing 9 Articles or Questons of which the following is a Copy: The Commanders and officers of the Ships, where this Paper may be presented, Will be please'd to Answer on the following Questions Vidzt-- 1 To What Nation the Ship belongs and its Name. 2 If it comes from Europe or any other place. 3 From what place it lastly departed from. 4 Where unto design'd to go. 5 What and how many Ships of the Dutch Comp. by departure from the last last Shore there layed and their Names. 6 If one or more of these Ships in Company with this is departed for 7 If during the Voyage any particularitys is happened or Seen. 430] 8 If not any Ships in Sea, or the Streights of Sunda have seen or hail'd in, and which. 9 If any other News worth of Attention at the place from whence the Ship lastly Departed or during the Voyage is happen'd. Batavia in the Castle the By order of the Governour General & the Counselors of India J BRANDER BUNOL Sect The first and fourth of these questions I only Answer'd which when the Officer saw, he made use of the very same words the other had done before, viz, that we might write what we please'd for it was of no concequence &ca and yet he immidiatly said that he must send that very paper away to Batavia by water and that it would be there by to Morrow Noon, which shews that the Governor and Counselors of India look upon such papers to be of some Concequence. Be this as it may, My reasons for takeing notice of it in this journal is because I am well inform'd that it is but of very late Years that the Dutch have taken upon them to examine all ships that pass these Streights. At 10 oClock we wieghd with a light breeze at SW, but did little more than Stem the Current. At Noon Bantam Point and Pula babys in one bearing EBN, distant from the Point 1 1/2 Mile, Latitude Observed 5o 53' S. SATURDAY 6<1th.>1 At 2 o'Clock in the PM finding that we could not stem the Current, we Anchord with the Kedge Anchor under Bantam point, where we lay untill 9, at which time the Current made slowly to the Eastward and at the same time a light breeze springing up at SE we weigh'd and Stood to the East untill 10 oClock in the AM, when the Current obliged us Again to anchor in 22 fathom, Pula Baby bearing EBS1/2S distant 3 or 4 Miles. Our Soundings from Bantam point to this place was from 36 to 22 fathoms. SUNDAY <17th.>1 Light Airs from the Southward with frequent Calms. At 6 oClock in the PM weighd with a light breeze at SSW, which was not sufficient to stem the Current and was therefore obliged to Come too again in 15 fathom. At 10 oClock weighd again and Stood to the Eastward with the wind at SSE. At 11 AM Anchord in 21 fathom, the West end of Wapping Islands bore South distant 3 Miles and the [431 Thousand Islands NBE1/2E distant 3 or 4 Miles; found the Current still set to the westward. MONDAY 8<1th.>1 Had it Calm untill 4 in the PM when we got the Sea breeze at NE very faint, with which we weighd and stood to the Eastward past Wapping Island and the first Island to the Eastward of it; falling little wind we were carried by the Current between this last Island and the 2nd Island to the Eastward of Wapping Isd, where we were obliged to Anchor in 3o fathom being very near a ledge of Rocks which spited out from one of the Islands.s At 1/2 past 2 o'Clock in the AM weighd with the Land wind at South and stood out clear of the Shoal, where we were again Obliged to come to an Anchor, having variable light winds attended with Thunder and Rain. At 5 oClock the weather being fair and a light breeze at south we weighd, but makeing little or no way against the Current we soon after came too again in 28 fathom near a small Island not laid down in the Charts, Pulo Pares bore ENE distant 6 or 7 miles. While we lay here a Proe came along side wherein were two <1Malays>1 who sold us 3 Turtle weighing 147 pounds for a Spanish Dollar; some on board thought them dear, but I thought they were Cheap, founding my judgement on the price the two Dutchmen that were on board before set upon those they had, one of which we paid a Dollor for that w[e]ighed only 36 pounds. TUESDAY 9<1th.>1 A Little past Noon weigh'd with a Light breeze at NE and stood to the Eastward untill 5 o'Clock when not being able to weather Pulo Pare we Anchord in 30 fathom the said Island ex- tending from SE to SSW distant 1 Mile. At 10 got the Land wind at South with which we wieghd and stood to the ESE all night, depth of water from 30 to 22 fathoms, and from 22 to 16 fathom where we Anchord at 10 oClock in the AM to wait for the Sea breeze. The Island of Edam bore SWBW distce 6 or 7 Miles. At Noon weighd and Stood in for Batavia Road having the Advantage of the Sea breeze at NNE. WEDNESDAY 10<1th.>1 according to our reckoning, but by the Peop[l]e here 432] THURSDAY 11s At 4 oClock in the PM Anchor'd in Batavia Roads where we found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, 2 English Country Ships,s 13 Sail of Large Dutch Ships and a number of Small Vesels. As soon as we anchor'd I sent Lieutt Hickss a Shore to acquaint the Governor of our Arrival and to make an Excuse for not Saluting, as we could only do it with three Guns, I thought it was better let a lone for it was thought the swivles could not be heard.s The Carpenter now deliverd me in the Defects of the Ship, of which the following is a Copy: The Defects of His Majestys Bark Endeavour Lieutt James Cook Commander. The Ship very Leakey (as she makes from twelve to six Inches ps Hour) Occationd by her Main Keel being wounded in many places and the Scarph of her stem being very open. The False Keel gone beyond the Midships (from forward and perhaps farther) as I had no opportunity of seeing for the water when haul'd a shore for repair). Wounded on her Larboards side under the Main Channels where I immagine the greatest Leak is (but could not come at it for the water). One Pump on the Larboard side useless the others decay'd within 11/2 Inch of the bore. Otherwise Masts, Yards, Boats & Hull in prety good condition. Dated in Batavia Road this 10th of Octr 1770 J. SEETTERLYs Previous to the above I had consulted with the Carpenter and all the other officers concearning the Leake, and they were all unanimously of opinion that it was not safe to proceed to Europe without first seeing her bottom. Accordingly I resolved to apply for Leave to heave her down at this place, and as I understood that this was to be [433 done in writeing I drew up a Request and in the Morning had it translated into dutch in order to be laid before the Governor.s FRIDAY 12<1th.>1 At 5 oClock in the PM I was interduced to the Governor General who Recieved me very politly and told me that I should have every thing I wanted, and that in the Morning my Requist should be laid before the Councel where I was desired to attend. About 9 oClock in the Evening we had much Rain with some very heavy Claps of Thunder, one of which carried away a Dutch India- man's Main Mast by the Deck and split it, the Ms Topms & Topgs mast all to shivers, she had had a Iron spindle at the Main Topgallant Mast head which had first Attracted the Lightning.s This Ship lay about two Cables lengths from us and we were struck with the Thunder at the same time and in all probabillity we should have shared the same fate as the Dutchman, had it not been for the Electrical Chain which we had but just before got up, this carr[i]ed the Lightning or Electrical matter over the side Clear of the Ship, the Shock was so great as to shake the whole ship very sencibly. This instance alone is sufficient to recommend these Chains to all ships whatever, and that of the Dutchman ought to caution people from having Iron spindles at their Masts heads. In the Morning I went a shore to the Councel Chamber and laid my Request before the Governor and Councel, who gave me for answer that I should have every thing I wanted. SATURDAY 13<1th.>1 Receiv'ed on board a Cask of Arrack and some Greens for the Ships Company. SUNDAY 14<1th.>1 Early in the Morning a ship saild from hence for Holland, by which I had just time to write two or three lines to Mr Stephens Secretary of the Admiralty to acquaint him of our Arrival, after which I went a shore and waited upon the Shabander,s who has 434] the derection of the Town, port &ca to get an order to the Super- intendant at Unrust to Receive us at that Island, but this I was told would not be ready before Tuesday next. Received from the Shore fresh beef and greens for the Ships Compney. MONDAY 15s forgot to mention that upon our arrival here I had not one man upon the Sick list, Lieutt Hicks Mr Green and Tupia were the only People that had any complaints Occasion'd by a long continuence at sea. TUESDAY 16<1th.>1 Finding by a strict inquiry that there were no private person or persons in this place that could at this time advance me a sufficient sum of Mony to defray the Charge I might be at in re- pairing and refiting the Ship, at least if there were any they would be afraid to do it without leave from the Governor: Wherefore I had nothing left but to apply to the Governor himself and accordingly drew up as request which I laid before the Governor and Counc[e]l this Morning in concequence of which the Shabander had orders to supply me with what mony I wanted out of the Companys Treasure: <1Lieutenant James Cook Commander of His Brittannick Majestys Bark the>1 <1Endeavour begs leave to represent to His Excellency The Rigt Honble Petrus>1 <1Albertus Van der Parra Governor General &ca &ca &ca.>1 That he will be in want of a Sum or Sums of Mony in order to defray the Charge he will be at in repairing and refiting His Brittan- nick Majestys Ship at this place; which sum or Sums of Mony he is directed by his in[s]tructions and empower'd by his Commission to give Bills of Exchange on the respective offices which Superintend His Brittannick Majestys Navy-- <1The said Lieutt fams Cook Requests of His Excellency>1 That he will be pleased to order him to be supply'd with such Sum or Sums of Money as he may want for the Use above mention'd either out of the Companys Treasure or permit such private persons to do it as may be willing to advance Mony for Bills of Exchange on The Honble the Principal Officers and Commissioners of His Brittannick Majestys Navy, The Comissionrs for Victualing His Majestys Navy and the Commissioners for taking Care of the Sick and Hurt. Dated on Board His Brittannick Majestys Bark the Endeavour in Batavia Road the 16s Octr 1770. JAMES COOK [435 WEDNESDAY 17<1th.>1 In the PM I waited upon the Superintendant of Unrust with an order from the Shabander to receive us at that Island, but this order the Superintendant told me was not sufficient to impower him to give me the conveniences and assistance I wanted; and when I came to call upon the Shabander I found this Mistake was owing to the word, heave down, being wrong translated, this circumstance trifling as it is will cause a delay of some days as it cannot be set to rights untill next Councel day which is not till Friday. THURSDAY 18<1th.>1 In the PM Received on board 2 live Oxen, 150 Galls of Arrack, 3 bars of Tarr and one of Pitch. At Day light in the AM took up our Anchor and Run down to Onrust. At 9 Anchord in 8s fathom off Cooperss Island which lies close to Onrust, there are Warfes at both of these Islands and ships land there stores some times on the one and some-times on the other, but it is only at Onrust where the proper conveniences are for heaving down. Soon after we Anchord I went ashore to the officers of the Yard to see if they could not allow us some place to land our stores but this could not be granted without orders. FRIDAY 19<1th.>1 In the PM I sent a petty officer to Mr Hicks, who lodges ashore at Batavia for the recovery of his hilth, with orders to desire him to wait upon the Shabandar in order to get the necessary orders respecting us despatch'd to this place as soon as possible. SATURDAY 20<1th.>1 Employ'd unrigging the Ship &ca. SUNDAY 21<1st.>1 In the PM orders came down to the officers of the Yard to comply with every thing I wanted, but we could not yet get to a warfe to land our stores, they being all taken up by shipping. MONDAY 22<1nd>1. In the AM Two ships went from the Warfes at Coopers Island, when we prepar'd to go along side one of them. TUESDAY 23s In the PM hauld along side one of the Warfes, in order to take out our stores &ca, after which the Ship is to be de- liverd into the Charge of the proper officers at Onrust, who will (as I am inform'd) heave her down and repair her with their own people only, while ours must stand and look on.s WEDNESDAY 24<1th.>1 Empd clearing the Ship having a store House to put our stores &ca in. In the PM I went up to Town in order to put on board the first Dutch Ship that Sails a Packet for the Admiralty 436] containing a Copy of my Journal, a Chart of the South Sea, a nother of New Zeland and one of the East Coast of New Holland. In the Morning the General accompanied by the Water Fiscall,s some of the Councel and the Commodore each in their Respective boats went out into the Road on board the Oldest Captain in order to appoint him Commodore of the Fleet ready to Sail for Holland. The Ships were drawn up in two lines between which the General past to the New Commodores Ship which lay the farthest out. Each Ship as he past and repast gave him 3 Cheers and as soon as he was on board and the Dutch flag hoisted at the Main Topmast head, the other Commodore Saluted him with 21 Guns and emmidiatly after struck his Broad Pendant, which was again hoisted as soon as the General left the other Ship, he was then saluted with 17 Guns by the new made Commodore who now hoisted a Common pendant. This Ceremony of apointing a Commodore over the Grand fleet, as they call it, we were told is Yearly perform'd. I went out in my Boat on purpose to see it accompaned by Mr Banks and Dr Solander because we were told that it was one of the grandest sights Batavia afforded, that may be too and yet it did not recompence us for our trouble. I thought the whole was but ill conducted and the fleet appear'd to be very badly man'd. This Fleet consists of 10 or 12 Sail of Stout Ships; not only these but all or most of their other Ships are perced for 5o Guns, but have only their upper tier Mounted and these are more by half than they have men to fight. THURSDAY 25<1th.>1 In the Evening I sent the Admiralty Packet on board the Kronenburg Capt Fredrick Kelger, Commodore who to- gether with a nother Ship sails emmidiatly for the Cape where he waits for the remainder of the fleet. FRIDAY 26<1th.>1 Set up the Ships Tents for the reseption of the Ships Company, several of them begin to be taken ill owing as I suppose to the extreem hot weather. SATURDAY 27<1th.>1 Employ'd geting out Store[s], Ballast &ca. SUNDAY 28<1th.>1 Employ'd as above. MONDAY 29<1th.>1 TUESDAY 30<1th.>1 Employ'd clear[ing] the Ship. WEDNESDAY 31<1st.>1 [437 [NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1770] THURSDAY 1<1st.>1 Got every thing out of the Ship and all Clear for going along side the Carreening Warfe, but about Noon I Received a Message from the Officers at Onrust acquainting me that they could not Recieve us there untill they had first despatched the Ships bound to Europe which were down here taking in Peper. FRIDAY 2s SATURDAY 3s Empd overhauling the Riggings &ca makeing Rope, makeing and repair'g Sails. SUNDAY 4<1th.>1 MONDAY 5<1th.>1 Clear hot sultry weather. In the AM Transported the Ship over to Onrust along side one of the Carreening warf's. TUESDAY 6<1th.>1 In the AM the Officers of the Yard took the Ship in hand and sent on board a number of Carpenters, Caulkers, Riggers Slaves &ca to make ready to heave down. WEDNESDAY 7<1th.>1 Employ'd geting ready to heave down. In the PM we had the Missfortune to loose Mr Monkhouse the Surgeon who died at Batavia of a Fever after a Short illness of which desease and others, several of our people are daly taken ill which will make his loss be the more severly felt. He was succeeded by Mr Perry his mate, who is equally well if not betteri skilld in his profession. THURSDAY 8<1th.>1 In the night had much Thunder, Lightning and rain, during the day fair weather which gave us time to get every thing in readiness for heaving down. FRIDAY 9<1th.>1 In the PM Hove the Larboard side of the Ship Keel out and found her bottom to be in a far worse condition than we ex- pected, the False Keel was gone to within 20 feet of the stern post, the Main Keel wounded in ma[n]y places very considerably, a great quantity of Sheathing [off], several planks much damaged especially under the Main channell near the Keel, where two planks and a half near 6 feet in length were within 1/8 of a Inch of being cut through, and here the worms had made their way quite into the Timbers, so that it was a Matter of Surprise to every one who saw her bottom how we had kept her above water; and yet in this condition we had saild some hundreds of Leagues in as dangerous a Navigation as is in any 438] part of the world, happy in being ignorant of the continual danger we were in. In the Evening righted the Ship, Having only time to patch up some of the worst places to prevent the water geting in in large quantitys for the present. In the Morning hove her down again and most of the Carpenters and Caulkers in the yard (which are not a few) were set to work upon her bottom, and at the same time a number of slaves were employ'd bailing the water out of the hold. Our people altho they attend were seldom called upon, indeed by this time we were so weake[n]d by sickness that we could not muster above 20 Men and officers that were able to do duty, so little should we have been able to have hove her down and repair'd her our selves as I at one time thought us capable of. SATURDAY 10<1th.>1 In the PM we were obliged to right the Ship before night by reason of her makeing water in her uper works faster than we could free, this made it necessary to have her weather workss inside and out caulk'd which before was thought unnecessary. SUNDAY 11<1th.>1 In the AM having caulkd the uper works hove out the Larboard side again which a number of workmen were employ'd repairing. MONDAY 12<1th>1. In the PM finishd the Larboard side and in the AM began to get ready to heave out the other. TUESDAY 13<1th>1. This day they hove the starbd side keel out which we found very little damage'd and was therefore soon done with. WEDNESDAY 14<1th>1. Employ'd clearing the Ship of the Carreening geer her bottom being now throughaly repaird and very much to my satisfaction. In justice to the Officers and workmen of this Yard I must say that I do not believe that there is a Marine Yard in the world where Work is done with more alertness than here or where there are better conveniences for heaving Ships down both in point of safety and dispatch. Here they heave down by two Masts which is not now practised by the English but I hold it to be much safer and more expaditious than by heaving down by one mast; a man must not only be strongly bigoted to his own customs but in some measure divested of reason that will not allow this after seeing with how much ease and safety the Dutch at Onrust heave down their largest Ships. THURSDAY 15<1th. In the AM Transport the Ship from Onrust to Coopers Island and moor'd her a long side the warfe. [439 FRIDAY 16<1th.>1 Empd takeing in Coals and Ballast. Sent one of the decay'd Pumps up to Batavia to have a New one made by it. SATURDAY 17<1th>1. SUNDAY 18<1th>1. MONDAY 19<1th>1. Employd Rigging the Ship, geting on board TUESDAY 20<1th>1. Stores and water which last we have sent WEDNESDAY 21<1st.>1 from Batavia at the rate of Six Shillings and THURSDAY 22<1nd.>1 8 pence a Leager or 150 Galls. We are FRIDAY 23<1rd.>1 now become so sickly that we seldom can SATURDAY 24<1th.>1 muster above 12 or 14 hands to do duty.s SUNDAY 25<1th.>1 MONDAY 26<1th.>1 In the night had much rain after Which the Westerly Monsoon set in, which blows here generally in the night from the SW or from the land in the day from the Nw or North. TUESDAY 27<1th.>1 WEDNESDAY 28<1th.>1 Employ'd geting on board Stores, Pro- THURSDAY 29<1th.>1 visions, Water, Rigging the Ship, re- FRIDAY 30<1th.>1 pairing and bending the sails. DECEMBER SATURDAY 1<1st.>1 On the last of these Days having got all the SUNDAY 2<1d>1. Sick on board and every other thing MONDAY 3<1rd.>1 from the Island, we hauld off from the TUESDAY 4<1th.>1 Warfe with a design to run up to WEDNESDAY 5<1th.>1 Batavia Road but the wind proving THURSDAY 6<1th.>1 scant obliged us to lay at Anchor. FRIDAY 7<1th.>1 SATURDAY 8<1th.>1 Fresh breezes Westerly and fair weather. At 10 AM weigh'd and run up to Batavia Road where we Anchor'd in 41/2 fathom water. SUNDAY 9<1th.>1 First and latter parts Do weather, Middle Squally with rain. In the PM sent a shore a Boat Load of Empty Casks and at the same [time] went my self in order to forward the things we wanted, and this same evening sent on board the New Pump with some other stores that were immidiatly wanting. MONDAY 10<1th.>1 For the Most part Squally weather with rain: The People Employ'd scraping the paint Work. 440] TUESDAY 11<1th.>1 For the most part of these Days fair weather. WEDNESDAY 12<1th.>1 Empd takeing on board Provisions and THURSDAY 13<1th.>1 Water, this last is put on board at 5/- a FRIDAY 14<1th.>1 Leager or 150 Galls SATURDAY 15<1th.>1 In the PM Anchor'd here the Earl of Elgin Caps Cook an English East India Company ship from Madrass, bound to China, but having lost her passage put in here to wait for the next season. SUNDAY 16<1th.>1 Empd takeing on board provisions, Scraping and MONDAY 17<1th.>1 painting the Ship. TUESDAY 18<1th.>1 Gentle breezes and fair weather. Anchor'd here the Phenix Capt Black an English Country Ship from Bencoolen. WEDNESDAY 19<1th.>1 THURSDAY 20<1th.>1 Fresh breezes and for the most part fair FRIDAY 21<1st.>1 weather. Employ'd takeing on board SATURDAY 22<1nd.>1 Provisions water &ca and geting the Ship SUNDAY 23<1rd.>1 ready for Sea.s MONDAY 24<1th.>1 TUESDAY 25<1th.>1 Having now compleatly refited the Ship & taken in a sufficient quantity of Provisions of all kinds, I this afternoon tooke leave of the General and such others of the principal Gentlemen as I had any connections with, all of whome upon every occasion gave me all the assistance I required. A small dispute however now happend between me and some of the Dutch Naval Officers about a seaman that had run from one of the Dutch Ships in the Road and enter'd on board mine. This man the General demanded as a subject of Holland and I promised to deliver him up provide[d] he was not an English Subject, and sent the necessary orders on board for that purpose. In the Morning the Commodores Captain came and told me that he had been on board my ship for the Man but that the officer had refused to give him up alidging that he was an Englishman, and that he, the Captain, was just than come from the General to demand the man of me as a Deanish Subject, he standing upon their Ships Books as born at Elsinore. I told him that I beleived there must be some Mistake in the Generals Message, for I apprehended he would not demand a Deanish Seaman from me who had commited no other crime than prefering the English service to that of the Dutch; but to convince him how unwilling I was to disoblige any one concern'd, I [441 had sent orders on board to deliver the Man to him in case he was found to be a Foreigner, but as that was not done I suspected that the Man was a Subject of England and if I found him to be such I was resolved to keep him. Soon after this I received a letter from Mr Hicks which I carried to the Shabandar and desired that it might be shewn to the General, and at the same time to acqua[i]nt him that after my having such unanswerable proofs of the Man be[ing] an English subject as was mentioned in that letter it was impossible for me to deliver him up. After this I heard no more about it.s WEDNESDAY 26<1th.>1 In the PM My self Mr Banks and all the Gentle- men came on board and at 6 in the AM we wiegh'd and came to sail with a light breeze at SW. The Elgin Indiaman saluted with three Cheers and 13 Guns and soon after the Garrison with 14 both of which we returnd. Soon after this the Sea breeze set in at NBW which obliged us to anchor just without the Ships in the Road. The Number sick on board at this time amounts to 40 or upwards and the rest of the Ships company are in a Weakly condition, having been ev[er]y one sick except the Sail maker an old Man about 70 or 80 Years of age, and what was still more extraordinary in this man his being generally more or less drunk every day.s But notwithstanding this general sickness we lost but Seven Men in the whole: the Surgeon three Seamen, Mr Greens Servant and Tupia and his servant,s both 442] of which fell a sacrifice to this unwholsom climate before they had reached the Object of their wishes. Tupia['s] death indeed cannot be said to be owing wholy to the unwholsom air of Batavia, the long want of a Vegetable diat which he had all his life before been use'd to had brought upon him all the disorders attending a sea life. He was a Shrewd Sensible, Ingenious Man, but proud and obstinate which often made his situation on board both disagreable to himself and those about him, and tended much to promote the deceases which put a period to his life. Batavia is a place that hath been so often Viseted by Europeans and so many Accounts of it extant, that any description I could give would seem unnecessary: besides I have neither abillities nor Materials Sufficient for such an undertakeing for whoever gives a faithfull account of this place must in many things contridect all the Authors I have had an oppertunity to consult, but this task I shall leave to some abler hand and only take notice of such things as seems to me necessary for seamen to know. The City of Batavia is situated on a low flat near the Sea in the bottom of a large Bay of the same name, which lies on the North side of Java about 8 Leagues from the Straights of Sunday: it lies in 6o 10' South Latitude and 106o 50' East Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich, settled by Astronomical observations made on the spot by the Reverend <1Mr Mohr,>1 who has built a very Elegant Observatory which is as well furnished with Instruments as most in Europe.s Most of the Streets in the City have canals of Water runing th[r]ough them which unite into one Stream about half a Mile before they discharge them selves into the [Sea], this is about 100 feet broad and is built far enough out into the Sea to have at its entrance a sufficient depth of water to admit small craft, Luggage boats &ca. The communication between the Sea and the City, is by this canal alone, and this only in the day for it is shut up every night by a boom, through which no boats can pass from about 6 oClock in the evening to between 5 and 6 the next Morning. Here stands the custom house where all goods either impord or exported pay the customary Duties, at least an account is here taken of them and nothing can pass without a permit weather it pays duty or no. All kinds of Refreshments, Naval Stores and Sea Provisions are to be had here but there are few Arti[c]les but what bears a very high price, especially if you take them of the Company which you are Obliged to do if you want any quantity, that is of such Articles as [443 they monopily to themselves which are all manner of Naval Stores and salted Provisions. The Road of Batavia or place where Shipping Anchor lies right before the City and is so large as to contain any number of Shipping. You Anchor with the Dome of the Great Church bearing about south in 7, 6 or 5fm water about 11/2 or 2 Miles from shore, and nearer you cannot come with large ships by reason of a Mud bank which lines all the Shore of the Bay. The ground you anchor in is of such a Nature that the Anchors buries themselves so deep that it is with difficult[y] they are got out, for this reason Ships always [layss] at Single Anchor being in no manner of danger of fouling them. You lay apparantly open to the Winds from the NW to the ENE, but the Sea that is caused by these winds is a good deal broke before it reaches the Road by the small Islands & Shoals without: these shoals have all of them either Buoys or Beacons upon [them], but if these guides should be Move'd there is a very good Chart of this Bay and the Coast of Java as far as the Straeghts of Sunday bound up in the English East India Pilot sold by Mount & Page:s in this Chart every thing seems to be Very accurately delineated. Fresh Water and wood for fuel must be purchas'd here, the water is put on board the Ships in the Road at a Spanish Dollar or 5 Shillings a Leager containg 150 Gallons but if sent to Onrust, which is one league from the Road, it cost a Duckatoon or Six Shillings & Eight pence. The supplying Shipping with water, especially Foreignors is a perquisite of the Commodore who is always an officer in the states service, but acts here under the Company. He takes care to tell you that the water is very good and will keep sweet at Sea whereas every boddy else tells you that it is not so, be this as it will Batavia is certainly a place that Europeans need not covet to go to, but if necessity obliges them they will do well to make their stay as short a[s] possible otherwise they will soon feel the effects of the unwholsome air of Batavia which I firmly beleive is the death of more Europeans than any other place upon the Globe of the same extent, such at least is my opinion of it which is founded on facts. We came in here with as healthy a ships company as need [go] to Sea and 444] after a stay of not quite 3 Months lift it in the condition of an Hospital Ship besides the loss of 7 Men and yet all the Dutch Captains I had an oppertunity to convers with said that we had been very lucky and wondered that we had not lost half our people in that time. THURSDAY 27<1th.>1 Moderate breezes at West and Nw with fair weather. At 6 AM weighd and stood out to Sea. At Noon the Island of Edam bore NBE distant 3 Miles. FRIDAY 28<1th.>1 Winds variable between the North and West. At 6 in the evening Anchor'd in 13 fathom water, Edam bearing East distant 11/2 Mile. At day light in the Morning weighd again and kept plying to windward between Edam and Duffins Island but [gained] very little owing to the Variableness of the winds. SATURDAY 29<1th.>1 In the Evening Anchord in 12 fathom water, untill day light when we got again under sail with the wind at WSW, and stood out NW for the Thousand Islands; before Noon the wind Veer'd to NW and we endeavourd to turn through between Pulo Pare and Wappen Island. SUNDAY 30<1th.>1 After making a short trip to the NE we tack'd and weather'd Pulo Pare and stood in for the Main having the wind at NW a fresh breeze. We fetched Maneaters Island (a small Island laying under the Main Midway between Batavia and Bantam). After making a trip to the NE and finding that we los'd ground we Stood in shore again and Anchord in 13 fathom water, the above mentioned Island bearing SWBW distant 1 Mile and in one with Bantam hill. At 7 In the Morning wieghd with the wind at wsw and stood to the NW and weatherd Wapping Island having the current in our favour. MONDAY 31<1st.>1 At 1 PM the wind veer'd to the northward, we Tackd and stood to the westward and weatherd Pulo Baby. In the Evening Anchord between this Island and Bantam Bay, the Island bearing North distant 2 Miles and Bantam point West. At 5 AM wieghd with the wind at WBS which afterwards proved Varble. At Noon Bantam posnt SW1/2W distant 3 Leagues. [JANUARY 1771] TUESDAY 1<1st.>1 In the PM stood over for the Sumatra shore, having the wind at SSW a fresh breeze and the current in our favour; but this last shifted and set to the Eastward in the evening, and obliged us to Anchor in 30 fathom under the Islands which lay offVerckens point, which point constitutes the narrowest part of the Streights of Sunday. [445 Here we found the current set to the SW the Most part of the night. At 5 AM weigh'd with the wind at NW and stood to the SW between the Island Thwart the Way and Sumatra, the wind soon after coming to the westward we stood over for the Java shore. At Noon the South point of Peper Bay bore SWBS and Anger point NE1/2E distant 2 Leagues. Tackd and stood to the Nw. WEDNESDAY 2<1nd.>1 First and middle parts fresh breeze at SW and fair, the remainder squally with rain. Plying to Windward between Cracatoa and the Java shore without gaining any thing. THURSDAY 3<1rd.>1 In the PM had it very squally with heavy showers of rain. At 1/2 past 7 Anchor'd in 19 fathom, Cracatoa Island SW distant 3 Leags In the morning came to sail having very squally variable weather. At Noon Cracatoa west 2 Leags. FRIDAY 4<1th.>1 Most part of these 24 hours Squally rainy weather, Winds variable between the NNW and SSW. At 5 pm Anchord in 28 fathom water, Cracatoa West distant 3 miles. Some time after the wind Veerd to Nw, with which we got under sail, but the wind dying away we advanced but little to the SW before noon at which time Princes Island bore SW distant 8 or 9 Leagues. SATURDAY 5<1th.>1 Had fresh breezes at SW with Squally rainy weather, untill the Evening when it clear'd up and the wind Veer'd to South and SE with which we stood to the sw all night. In the Morning the wind Veer'd to the NE which was still in our favour. At Noon Princes Island bore w1/2s distant 3 Leagues. SUNDAY 6<1th.>1 At 3 oClock in the PM Anchor'd under the sE side of Princes Island in 18 fathom water, in order to recrute our wood and water and to procure refreshments for the People which are now in a much worse state of hilth then when we left Batavia. After the Ship coming to an Anchor I went a shore to look at the watering place and to speak with the Natives some of whome were upon the beach. I found the watering place convenient and the water to all appearence good provide[d] proper care was taken in the filling of it; The Natives seem'd inclined to supply us with Turtles Fowles &ca, Articles that I intended laying in as great a stock as possible for the benefit of the sick and to suffer every one to purchas what they pleased for themsilves, as I found these people as easy to Traffic with as Europeans. In the Morning sent the Gunner ashore with some 446] hand[s] to fill water, while others were employ'd puting the hold to rights Sending on shore empty casks &ca. Served Turtle to the Ships company, Yesterday was the only salt Meat Day they have had sence company arrival at Savu which is now near 4 Months.s MONDAY 7<1th.>1 From this Day till MONDAY 14<1th>1 We were employ'd Wooding and watering being frequently interrup[t]ed by heavy rains; having now compleated both we hoisted in the Long boat and made ready to put to Sea, having on board a pretty good stock of refreshments which we purchasd from the Natives, such as Turtle, Fowles, Fish, Two species of Dear, one about as big as a small Sheep, the other no bigger then a Rabbit;s both sorts eat very well, but are only for present use as they seldom lived above 24 hours in our possesion. We likewise got fruit of several sorts, such as Coca nutts, Plantains, Limes &ca. The Trade on our part was carried on chiefly with mony (Spanish Dollars) the natives set but little Value upon any thing else, such of our people as had not this article traded with old Shirts &ca at a great disadvantage.s TUESDAY 15<1th.>1 Had Variable light Airs of wind, with which we could not get under sail untill the Morning when we weighd with a light breeze at NE which was soon succeeded by a Calm. WEDNESDAY 16<1th.>1 Had it calm all PM which at 5 oClock obliged us to anchor under the South point of Princes Island, the said point bearing SWBW distant two Miles. At 8 oClock in the AM a light breeze sprung [up] at North [with] which we we[i]gh'd and stood out to Sea. At Noon Java Head bore SE1/4S distant 2 Leagues and the West point of Princes Island NNw distant 5 Leagues. Lats Ob. 6o 45' s. Java Head from which I take my Departure Lies in the Latitude of 6o 49' S and Longitude 255o 12' West from the Meridion of Green- wich, deduced from Several Astronomical Observations made at <1Batavia>1 by the <1Reverd Mr Mohr.>1 Java to the Cape of Good Hope THURSDAY 17<1th.>1 Winds NE. Course Correct S 27o 15' W. <1Dictce sail'd>1 48 <1Ml. Lat in South>1 7o 32'. <1Long West from Greenws 255o 35'. Little wind>1 and fair. At 6 in the PM Java head bore ENE distant 4 or 5 Leagues- At 6 in the AM it bore NNE distt 12 Ls. [447 FRIDAY 18<1th. Winds Var>1s. <1Course Correct SW1/2S. Distce sail'd>1 30 <1Ml.>1 <1Lat. in>1 7o 55'. <1Long West from Greenwh>1 255o 54'. Light airs and calms with some showers of rain. SATURDAY 19<1th.>1 Winds Westerly. Course Correct S 3o <1E. Distce sail'd>1 53 <1M. tat in>1 8o 48'. <1Long West from Greenwh>1 255o 51'. For the most part of these 24 hours had Little wind and fair weather. SUNDAY 20<1th.>1 <1Winds NWrly.>1 <1Course Correct S>1 44o W. <1Distce sail'd>1 36 <1M. Lat in>1 9o 14'. <1Long West from Greenwh>1 256o 15'. Light airs and Calms with some Showers of rain. Saw two sail in the Nw quarter standing to the SW, one of them shew'd Dutch Colours. MONDAY <121st. Winds Easts. Course Correct S>1 57o W. <1Distce>1 sail'd 58 <1M. Lat in>1 9o 46'. <1Long West from Greenwh>1 257o 5'. First part little wind the remainder a gentle breeze, the 2 sail in sight. TUESDAY 22<1nd.>1 <1Winds SWerly. Course Correct N>1 10o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 17 <1M. tat in>1 9o 29'. <1Long West from Greenwh>1 257o 8'. Little wind and fair weather. WEDNESDAY 23rd. Do. <1Course Correct E Southerly. Distce sail'd>1 18 <1M.>1 at <1in>1 9o 30'. <1Long West from Greenwh>1 256o 50'. Do Weather, a swell from the Southward and which we have had ever sence we left the Streights of Sunda. THURSDAY 24<1th. Winds SWBS to SSE. Course Correct South. Distce>1 <1sail'd>1 4 <1M. tat in>1 9o 34'. <1Long West from Greenwh>1 256o 50'. First part light airs the remainder Calm. In the AM died Jno Truslove Corps of Marines, a Man much esteem'd by every one on board. Many of our people at this time lay dangerously ill of Fevers and fluxes. We are inclinable to atribute this to the water we took in at Princes Island and have put lime into the Casks in order to purifie it. FRIDAY 25<1th. Winds Var>1s <1& Calm. Courses S>1 30o <1E. Distce sail'd>1 12 <1M.>1 <1tat. in South>1 9o 44'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 256o 44'. Light Airs and Calms, hot and Sultry weather. Departed this Life Mr Sporing a Gentleman belonging to Mr Banks's retinue. SATURDAY 26<1th. Winds SWerly. Courses SE. Distce sail'd>1 17 <1M. tat in>1 <1South>1 9o 56'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 256o 32'. First part little wind, the remainder Calm and very hot. Set up the Topmasts rigging and clean'd Ship between decks and wash'd with Vinegar. SUNDAY 27th. <1Winds Var>1s. <1Courses S>1 30o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 19 <1M. Lat in>1 <1South>1 10o 12'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 256o 41'. Little wind and some times calm. In the Evening found the Variation to be 2o 51' W. Departed this Life Ms Sidney Parkinson, Natural History Painter 448] to Mr Banks, and soon after Jno Ravenhill, Sailmaker, a Man much advanced in years.s MONDAY 28<1th. Winds WWW, NE. Courses S>1 43o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 66 <1M.>1 <1Lat in South>1 11o 0'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 257o 27'. Moderate breezes with some squalls attended with Showers of rain. TUESDAY 29<1th. Winds WWerly. Courses S>1 40o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 74 <1M.>1 <1Lat in South>1 11o 57'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 258o 15'. Very variable weather, some times squally with rain, other times Little wind and Calms. In the night Died Mr Charles Green who was sent out by the a bad state of hilth, which he took no care to repair but on the contrary lived in such a manner as greatly promoted the disorders he had had long upon him, this brought on the Flux which put a period to his life. WEDNESDAY 30<1th. Winds Eastrly. Courses>1 S40o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 [<1in>1] <1Miles>1 67. <1Lat in South>1 12o 48'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 258o 59'. First and Latter parts Moderate breezes and clowdy weather, the middle Squally with rain Thunder and Lightning. Died of the Flux Sams Moody and Francis Hate,s two of the Carpenters Crew. THURSDAY 31<1st. Winds ESE. Courses SW. Distce sail'd>1 [<1in>1] <1miles>1 80. <1Lat in South>1 13o 42'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 259o 55'. First part Moderate and fair, the remainder frequent squalls attended with showers of rain. In the Course of this 24 hours we have had four Men died of the Flux, viz. Jno Thompson Ships Cook, Benj. jordan Carpenters Mate, James Nicholson and Archd Wolfe Seamen. A Melancholy proff of the Calamitous Situation we are at present in, having hardly well men enough to tend the Sails and look after the Sick, many of the latter are so ill that we have not the least hopes of their recovery. [FEBRUARY 1771] FRIDAY 1<1st. Winds SEBS. Courses S>1 581/2 <1W. Distce sail'd [in] miles 119.>1 <1Lat in South>1 14o 44'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 261o 40'. Fresh gales with flying showers of Rain. Clean'd between Decks and Wash'd with Vinegr. [449 SATURDAY 2<1nd. Winds SSE. Courses S>1 61o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 131. <1Latd in South>1 15o 48'. <1Longd in West from Greenwh>1 263o 40'.s A Fresh Trade and mostly fair weather. Departed this Life Danl Roberts Gunners Servant who died of the flux. Sence we have had a fresh Trade wind this fatall disorder hath seem'd to be at a stand, yet there are several people which are so far gone and brought so very row by it that we have not the least hopes of their recovery. SUNDAY <13rd. Winds Do. Courses S>1 65o <1W. Distce sail'd [in] miles>1 128. <1Latd in South>1 16o 40'. <1Longd in West from Greenwd>1 265o 40'.s Do Weather. In the Evening found the Variation to be 2o 56' West. Departed this Life John Thurman Sailmakers assistant. MONDAY 4<1th. Winds SE. Courses S>1 69o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 [in] <1miles>1 141. <1Latd in South>1 17o 30'. <1Longd in West from Greenwh>1 267o 56'.s A Fresh Trade and hazey weather, with some Squalls attend[ed] with small rain. Unbent the Main Topsail to Repair and bent a nother. In the night died of the Flux Mr john Bootie Midshipman and Mr Jno Gathrey Boatswain. TUESDAY <15th. Winds EBS. Courses W>1 15o <1S. Distce sail'd [in] miles>1 141. <1Latd in South>1 18o 6'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwh>1 270o 18'.s A Fresh Trade wind and hazey Clowdy weather. Empd repairing sails. Appointed Saml Evans one of the Boatswains mates and Coxswain of the Pinnace to be Boatswain in the room of Mr Gathrey deceased and order'd a Survey to be taken of the Stores. WEDNESDAY 6<1th. Winds SE. Course W>1 12o <1S. Distce sail'd miles>1 126. <1Latd in South>1 18o 30'. <1Longd in West from Greenwh>1 272o 28'. A Fresh Trade wind and fair weather. In the night died Mr Jonn Monkhouse Midshipman and Brother to the late Surgeon. THURSDAY 7<1th. Winds SE. Course S>1 75o 15' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 110. <1Latd in South>1 18o 58'. <1Longd in West from Greenwh>1 274o 20' <1pr Log>1 276o 19' <1pr Obsern.>1 Gentle gales with some Showers in the night. In the Evening found the Variation to be 3o 24' West and in the Morning I took severs Observations of the Sun and Moon, the Mean result of which carried on to Noon gave 276o 19' West Long<1de>1 from Greenwich which is 2o to the westward of that given by the Log; this I beleive to be owing to a following sea which I have not yet allowd for. I judge it to be 6 Ms a Day sence we have had the sE Trade wind. FRIDAY 8<1th. Winds SE. Course S>1 78o <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 127. <1Latd in>1 <1South>1 19o 24'. <1Longd in West from Greenwh>1 276o 40' <1pr Log>1 278o 50' <1pr>1 450] <1Obn.>1 Winds as Yesterday, clear weather in the day and showery in the night. In the Morning took Observations again of the Sun and Moon the Mean result of which reduced to Noon gave 278o 50' West, which is 2o 31 ' West of yesterdays Observations; the Log gives 2o 20'. SATURDAY <19th. Winds SE. Course S>1 74o 30' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 127. <1Latd in South>1 19o 58'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwh>1 278o 50' <1pr Log>1 281so' <1pr Obn.i>1 Gentle gales and fair weather. In the Morning saw a Ship on our Starboard Quarter which hoisted Dutch Colours. SUNDAY <110th. Winds SE qrter. Course S>1 77o 15' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 136. <1Latd in South>1 20o 28'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 281o 12' <1pr. Log>1 283o 22' <1pr Obn.>1 Fresh breezes and Hazey weather. Lost sight in the night of the Dutch Ship she having out Saild us. MONDAY 11<1th. Winds Do. Course S>1 75o <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 126. <1Latd>1 <1in South>1 20o 58'. <1Lonqd in West of Greenwh>1 283o 22' <1pr. Log>1 285o 32' <1pr>1 <1Obsn.>1 Winds and weather as yesterday. Some hands constantly Employ'd repairing Sails. TUESDAY 12<1th. Winds SSE. Course S>1 71o <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 83. <1Latd>1 <1in South>1 21o 25'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 284o 46' <1Pr. Log>1 286o 56' <1Pr Obn.>1 Gentle breezes and fair weather. At 7 in the AM died of the flux after a long and painfull illness Mr John Satterly, Carpenter, a Man much Esteem'd by me and every Gentleman on board, in his room I apoint George Knowels one of the Carpenters Crew, having only him and one More left. WEDNESDAY 13<1th. Winds Do. Course S>1 72o 30' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 87. <1Latd in South>1 21o 51'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 286o 15' <1pr. Log>1 288o 25' <1pr>1 <1Obn.>1 Weather as yesterday. Employ'd surveying the Carpenters Stores and repairing sails. THURSDAY 14<1th. Winds Do. Course S>1 73o15' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 105. <1Latd in South>1 22o 21'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 288o 3' <1pr. Log>1 290o 13' <1Pr.>1 <1Obn.>1 Moderate breezes and Clowdy with some Showers of rain. Variation pr Azth 4o 10' W. Departed this Life Alexr Lindsey Seaman; this man was one of those we got at Batavia and had been some time in India. FRIDAY 15<1th. Winds SEBE. Course S>1 81o 15' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 123. <1Latd in South>1 22o 40'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 290o 15' <1pr. Log>1 292o 25' <1pr.>1 <1Obn.>1 Weather as yesterday. Died of the flux Dans Preston Marine. [451 SATURDAY <116th. Winds SEBE. Course S>1 84o <1W. Distce sail'd miles 115.>1 <1Lad in South>1 22o 52'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 292o 20' <1pr. Log>1 294o 30' <1pr. Obn.>1 A Fresh Trade and Clowdy weather. Empd re- pairing sails Rigging &ca. SUNDAY 17<1th. Winds SEBS. Course S>1 79o 45' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 157. <1Latd in South>1 23o 20'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 295o 8' <1pr. Log>1 297s18' <1Pr. Obn.>1 Fresh Gales with some showers of rain. Variation pr Azth 10o 20' Westerly. M0NDAY 18<1th. Winds SEBE. Course>1 S75o30' <1W. Distce sail'd miles>1 148. <1Latd in South>1 23o 57'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 297o 46' <1pr. Log>1 299o 56' <1pr. Obn.>1 Fair and pleasent weather. TUESDAY 19<1th. Winds SEBE & South. Course S>1 77o <1W. Distce sail'd>1 <1miles>1 130. <1Latd in South>1 24o 26'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 300o 5' <1pr.>1 <1Log>1 302o 15' <1pr. Obn.>1 Do Weather. WEDNESDAY 20<1th. Winds South. Course S>1 75o 45' W. <1Distce sail'd>1 <1miles>1 127. <1Latd in South>1 24o 57'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 302o 21' <1pr.>1 <1Log>1 304o 31' <1pr. Obn.>1 Fresh gales and clear weather. Variation pr Azth 12o 15' West. This Morning the Carpenter and his Mate set about repairing the Long-boat, being the first day they have been able to work sence we left Princes Island. THURSDAY 21<1st. Winds South to ESE. Course WBS. Distce sail'd miles>1 126. <1Latd in South>1 25o 21'. <1Long in West from Greenwh>1 304o 39' <1Pr.>1 <1Accot.>1 306o 34' <1pr. Obsn.>1 First and Middle parts fair weather, Latter Squally attended with Showers of rain. Between 2 and 3 o Clock in the PM took Several observation[s] of the Sun and Moon, the Mean Result of them gave 304o 33' W Longitude from Greenwich, which is 1o55' west of Account and corisponds very well with the last ob- servations, for at that time the Ship was 2o 10' West of account. In the night died of the flux Alexr Simpson a very good Seaman. In the Morning Punished Thos Rossiters with Twelve Lashes for geting Drunk, grossly Asaulting the Officer of the Watch and beating some of the Sick. FRIDAY 22<1nd. Winds SEBS. Courses S>1 70o 45' <1W. Dist sail'd miles>1 133. <1Lat in South>1 26o 5'. <1Longd in West>1 306o 59' <1pr. Log>1 308o 54' <1pr. Ob.>1 Fresh trade and fair weather. Nothing remarkle. SATURDAY 23<1rd. Winds Do. Courses S>1 64o 15' <1W. Dist sail'd miles>1 124. <1Lat In South>1 26o 59'. <1Longd in West>1 309o 6' <1pr. Log>1 311o 28' <1pr. Obn.>1 Ds Winds and weather. Variation pr Evening Amplitude 17o 30' West. 452] SUNDAY 24<1th. Winds Do. Courses S>1 66o 45' W. <1Dist sail'd miles 117.>1 <1Lat In South>1 27o 45'. <1Longd in West>1 311o 7' <1pr. Log>1 313o 41' <1pr. Obn.>1 Gentle breezes and fair weather. In the AM took the oppertunity of a fine morning to Stay the Main Mast and set up the Topmast Rigging. Saw an Albatross. MONDAY 25<1th. Winds EBS. Courses S>1 58o 3o' <1W. Dist sail'd miles>1 122. <1Lat In South>1 28o 49'. <1Longd in West>1 313o 6' <1pr. Log>1 316o 6' <1by Obserm>1 <1which shews that the Ship has gaind upon the Loq 105' in three days, in which>1 <1time we have always found the obsd Latd to the Southward of that given by>1 <1the Log, these joint observations proves that there must be a Current seting>1 <1between the South and West.>1 Gentle gales and fair weather. Variation pr Evening Azths 24o 20' West and by the Morning Ampd 24o West. Longd by Obn of ? & D is 3o to the westward of the Log. TUESDAY 26<1th. Winds SEBE. Courses S>1 82o <1W. Dist sail'd miles>1 122. <1Lat In South>1 29o 6'. <1Lonqd in West>1 315o 24' <1pr. Log>1 318o 24' <1pr. Obn.>1 Fresh gales. Variation pr Azths in the evening 26o 10' West. WEDNESDAY 27<1th. Winds EBS, EBN, NE. Courses S>1 77o 15' <1W. Dist>1 <1sail'd miles>1 108. <1Lat In South>1 29o 30'. <1Longd in West>1 317o 25' <1Pr. Log>1 320o25' <1pr. Obn.>1 Do Gales and clowdy. In the AM Died of the Flux Henry Jeffs, Emanuel Pharahs and Peter Morgan Seamen, the last came Sick on board at Batavia of which he never recoverd and the other two had long been past all hopes of recovery, so that the death of these three men in one day did not in the least alarm us; on the contrary we are in hopes that they will be the last that will fall a Sacrefice to this fatal desorder, for such as are now ill of it are in a fair way of recovering. THURSDAY 28<1th Winds NEBE, North, & SW. Courses S 851/2 s W.>1 <1Distce saild miles>1 88. <1Lat in South>1 29o 37'. <1Longd in West>1 319o 5' <1pr. Log>1 322o 5' <1pr. Obn.>1 Moderate breezes and fair weather untill near 5 oClock in the AM, when a heavy squall from the SW attended with rain took us all a back and obliged us to put before the wind the beter to take in our sails, but before this could be done the Fore Topss was split in many places; by 6 oClock the Topsails & Mn Sail were handed and we brought too under the Fore sail and Mizn. At 8 oClock it fell more Moderate and we set the Main sail and brought another Fore Topsail to the Yard. At Noon had strong gales and Clowdy weather. [453 [MARCH 1771] FRIDAY 1<1st. Winds SW to SB W. Courses S>186o 45' <1W. Distce saildmiles>1 71. <1Lat. in South>1 29o 41'. <1Longd in West>1 320o 26' <1pr. Log>1 323o 26' <1pr. Obn.>1 Fresh gales and clowdy. Found the Bitts which Secures the foot of the Bow-sprit loose, this obliged us to put before the wind untill they Were secured in the best manner our situation would admit, this done we hauld our wind again to the Westward under the Courses and close reef'd Topsails. SATURDAY <12nd. Winds Southy. Courses S>1 60o <1W. Distce saild miles>1 80. <1Lat in South>1 30o 21'. <1Longd in West>1 321o 46' <1pr. Log>1 324o 46' <1pr. Obn.>1 First part fresh gales and Clowdy, remainder Little wind with some few showers ofrain. A Sea from the sw. SUNDAY 3<1rd. Winds NE. Courses S>1 58o 15' <1W. Distce saild miles>1 76.s <1Lat in South>1 31o 1'. <1Longd in West>1 323o 2' <1pr. Log>1 326o 2' <1pr. Obn.>1 First part Little wind remainder Gentle gales and clear weather and the Sea pretty smooth. MONDAY <14th. Winds NE and SW. Courses S>1 67o 45' <1W. Dist saild miles>1 87 <1Lat in South>1 31o 34'. <1Longd in West>1 324o 36' <1pr. Log>1 327o 36' <1pr Obn.>1 In the PM had a moderate breeze which continued untill 4s oClock in the AM when it fell calm and soon after a breeze sprung up at sw. In the Evening and most part of the night the weather was dark and clowdy with much Lightning to the Westward. Variation 25o 35' W. TUESDAY <15th. Winds SSW to SE. Courses pr. Log N>131o <1W. Dist saild>1 <1miles>1 32. <1Lat in South>1 31 o52' <1pr Obs>1 31 o7' <1pr Reckoning. Longd in West>1 331o 19' <1pr. Obn>1 324o 56' <1pr. Reckoning.>1 Fresh gales from the SSW with Squally rainy wr with which we stood to the Westward. In the even- ing some people thought they saw the appearence of land to the Northward, but this appear'd so improbable that I who was not on deck at this time was not acquainted with it untill dark, when I ord- er'd them to sound but found no ground with 80 fm upon which we concluded that no land was near, but day light in the Morning proved this to be a Mistake by shewing us the land at the Distance of a bout 2 Leagues off. We had now the wind at SE blowing fresh right upon the land. When we made the land we were standing to the westward, but thinking the other the best tack to get offon we wore and hauld off to Eastward and by now had got an offing of a bout 4 Leagues, the land at this time extending from NEBN to WSW.s This part of the Coast of 454] Africa that we fell in with lies in about the Latitude of 32o 0' and Longitude of 331o 29'----28o31'EW, and near to what is call'd in the Charts Point Natall, it was a steep cragy point, very much broke and look'd as if the high Cragy rocks were Islands; to the NE of this point the land in geners appeared to rise sloaping from the Sea to a moderate height, the shore Alternately Rocks and Sand. About 2 Leagues to the NE of the point appeared to be the Mouth of a River which probably be that of St Johns. At this time the weather was very Hazey so that we had but a very imperfect View of the land which did not appear to great advantage. WEDNESDAY <16th. Winds Southerly. Courses S>1 54o <1E. Distce saild miles>1 37. <1Lat in South>1 32o 4' <1Longd in West>1 330o 44' <1Pr Obsern>1 323o 36' <1Pr Reckon->1 <1ing.>1 Moderate gales with Hazey Rainy weather. Stood to the East- ward all the Day having the Land in sight which at4 oClock in the PM extended from NEBN to SWBW, Distant 5 Leagues. At 6 in the Morning we could only see it at West distant 7 or 8 Leagues. At Noon found the Ship by Observation 9o Miles to the Southward of Account, thus far the Current has carried us to the South sence the last Observation which was only two days ago, but it is plane from the posission of the Coast that we have been carried full as far to the West also, Notwithstanding we have been Standing all the time to the ENE.s THURSDAY <17th. Winds Southerly. Courses S>1 56o 15' <1W. Distce saild miles>1 72. <1Lat in South>1 32o 54'. <1Longd in West>1 331o 56' <1Pr. Ob.>1 323o 54' <1Pr. R.>1 Clowdy hazey weather, Winds varying between the SWBS & SEBS a light breeze. At 1 pm Tack'd and stood to the Westward, Land at North distt about 8 Leagues. At 6 saw it extending from NBW to WBN distant 5 or 6 Leagues. At 8 Tackd and stood to the Eastward till 12 than again to the Westward, standing 4 hours on one Tack & 4 on the other. At Noon very clowdy, had no observation. Saw the land extending from NBW to WBN. FRIDAY 8<1th. Winds Do and Easterly. Courses S>1 391/2o. <1Distce saild miles>1 109. <1Lat in South>1 34o 18'. <1Longd in West>1 333o 19' <1Pr. Ob.>1 324o 23' <1Pr. R.>1 In the pm Stood to the westward with the Wind at SBW untill 4 oClock than [455 again to the Eastward having the land in sight extending from NNE to WBN distant 8 Leagues. At 12 the wind ver'd to the Eastward and before noon blowd a fresh breeze with which we steerd sw. At 7 the land extending from NNw to ENE distant 10 or 12 LS. Found the Variation by the Ampd to be 28o 30' West and by an Azth 28o 8' West. At Noon Lat. Observed 34o 18' which is 93 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log, or dead reckoning sence the last Observation. SATURDAY 9<1th. Winds Do. Courses S>1 65o <1W. Distce saild miles>1 210. <1Lat>1 <1in South>1 35o 44'. <1Longd in West>1 337o 6' <1pr. Ob.>1 326o 53' <1pr. R.>1 A Steady fresh gale and settled weather. At 4 in the PM had high land in sight bearing NEBN. At Noon had little wind and clear wear the Observed Latitude 46 Miles to the Southward of the Log which is conformable to what has happend the four preceeding days and by Obs made of @ & > this morning found that the Ship had gaind 7o4' West of ye Log sence the last Observations 13 Days ago. SUNDAY <110th. Winds WE, Westerly. Courses N>1 17o 15' <1W. Distce saild>1 <1miles>1 55 <1Ms. tat in South>1 34o 52'. <1Lonqd In West>1 337o 25' <1pr. Ob.>1 327o 12' <1Accot.>1 In the pm had a light breeze at NE untill 4 oClock when it fell Calm and continued so untill 11 at which time a breeze sprung up at wNw with which we stood to the northward. In the Morning found the Variation to be 22o 46' West. At Noon the Obser'd Latitude was 14 Miles to the Northward of the Log which shews that the Current must have shifted. MONDAY 11<1th. Winds Do, SE. Courses>1 785o <1W. Distce saild miles>1 79. <1Lat in South>1 34o 45'. <1Longd in West>1 338o 48' <1pr. Obn>1 328o 35' <1pr. R.>1 First part light Airs at West. The remainder had a fresh gale at sE with which we steerd west and wNw in order to make the Land which was seen from the Deck at 10 AM. At Noon it Extended from NE to Nw distant 5 Leagues. The Middle appear'd high & Mountainous and the two extremes low. Took severs obns of ye @ & > which gave the Longd reduced to noon as pr Column. TUESDAY 12<1th. Winds East, SE, and Southerly. Courses S>1 69o 30' <1W.>1 <1Distce saild miles>1 37. <1Lat in South>1 34o 58'. <1Longd In West>1 339o 30' <1pr. Obn>1 329o 17' <1pr. R.>1 In the PM had the wind a[t] SE & East with which we steer'd a long shore West & WSW. At 6 Cape Laguillass bore West distant 3 Leagues. At 8 the wind being than at South we Tackd and stood of being about 2 Leagues from the Cape which bore about WNW, in this Situation had 33fm water. The wind continued between SW and South all night in times very squally with rain. At 2 AM 456] Tack'd to the westward untill near 8 when we again stood off, Cape Laguillas NW distant 2 or 3 Leagues. At 9 the weather clear'd up an the wind fix'd at SBW, we Tackd and stood to the westward. At Noon Cape Laguillas bore NEBN distt 4 Leagues; the Land of this Cape is very low & sandy next the Sea, inland it is of a Moderate height. Latitude 34o 50', Longd 339o 23' W or 20o 37' E, deduce'd from yterdys Observations. WEDNESDAY 13<1th.>1 In the PM having the Wind at South we steerd a long shore WES1/2S until 3 oClock, when finding this Course carried us off from the land we Steerd WBN. At 6 oClock Cape Laguillas or the high land over it bore EBN Distant 12 Leagues and the Westermost land in sight NW1/2W. We continued a WBN Course with the wind at SE untill day light in the Morning, when we hauld in NW and NWBN, At 8 the Cape of Good hope NWBN and at 10 we were abreast of it, and distant off about 1 League or little more. We pass'd close without a rock on which the Sea brok[e] very high, it lies about a League right out to sea from the Cape. After passing the Cape we keept along shore at the distance of about one League off having a fresh gale at SE. At Noon the Cape bore sE distant 4 L[eagues]. Latitude observed 34o 15' S, Longitude in by our reckoning, corrected by the last Observation, 341 o7' West or 18o53' E from Greenwich, by which the Cape lies in 34o 25' South Latitude and 19o 1' East Longitude from Greenwich, which nearly agrees with the observations made at the Cape Town by Mesrs Mason and Dixon in 1761s--a prooff that our observations have been well made and that as such they may always be depended on to a Surprising degree of Accuracy. If we had had no such guide we should have found an error of 10o 13' of Longitude or perhaps more to the East, such an effect the Currents must have had upon the Ship. THURSDAY 14<1th.>1 Winds at sE a fresh gale but as we approached the Lyons Tail on West point Table Bay we had flurries of wind from all points of the Compass; this was occasion'd by the high land for clear of it the wind was still at sE and blow'd so Strong out of the Bay that we could not work the Ship in, we were therefore obliged to Anchor a good way without all the Ships at Anchor in the road, in the whole 16 Sail (viz) 8 Dutch, 3 Dains, 4 French a Frigate and 3 Store Ships, and [457 one English East Indiman who Saluted us with a 11 Guns which compliment we returnd with 9. The gale continued which obliged us to lay fast all the Morning. FRIDAY the 15<1th.>1 Strong gales at sE all the after noon and most part of the night tho in the Evening it fell a little moderate, which gave the Indimans boat an oppertunity to come on board us with a com- pliment of a Basket offruit &ca. She was the Admiral Pocock Captain Riddell homeward bound from [Bombay].s In the Morning we got under sail & stood into the Road having variable light airs mostly from the sea. A Dutch Boat from the shore came on board in which was the Master Attendant and some other Gentlemen; the former directed us to a proper birth where about 10 oClock we anchord in 7 fathom water a Owsey bottom, the Lyons Tail ors West point of the Bay bore WNW, and the Castle sw distant 11/2 Miles. I now sent a petty officer ashore to know if they would Answers our salute but before he returnd we saluted, which was immidiatly returnd by the same num- ber of Guns. After this I waited my self upon the Governor who was pleased to tell me that I should have every thing I wanted that the place afforded. My first care was to provide a proper place a Shore for the r[e]seption of the Sick, for which purpose I order'd the Surgeon to look out for a house where they could be Lodged and diated; this he soon found and agree'd with the people of the house for two Shillings a Day per Man, which I found was the Customary price and method of proceeding and I afterwards gave the Surgeon an order to superintend the whole. Few Remarks have happend sence we leftJava head that can be of much use to the Navigator or any other person into whose hand this journal may fall, Such however as have occurd I shall now insert. After our leaving Java head we were a 11 Days before we got the general SE Trade wind in which time we did not advance above 5o to the South and 3o to the West, having all the time Variable light Airs of Wind interrupted by frequent Calms; the weather all the lime hot and sultry and the Airs unwholsome, occasioned most probably by the vast Vapours brought into these Latitudes by the Easterly Trade wind and Westerly Monsoon, both of which blow at this time of the Year in this sea; the Easterly wind prevail[s] as far as 12o or 10o South and the westerly winds as far as 6o or 8o. Between them the winds are variable and I beleive always more or less un- wholsome, but to us it was remarkable from the fatal concequences 458] that attended it; for what ever might be the cause of first bringing on the flux among our people, this unwholsome air had a great share in it & increased it to that degree that a man was no sooner taken with it than he look'd upon himself as dead, such was the despondency that reign'd among the sick at this time, nor could it be by any means prevented when every man saw that Medicine however skilfully administred had not the least Effect. I shall mention what effect only the imagery approach of this disorder had upon one man. He had long tended upon the Sick and injoy'd a tolerable good state of hilth: one morning coming upon deck he found himself a little griped and immidiatly began to stamp with his feet and exclaim I have got the Gripes, I have got the Gripes,s I shall die, I shall die!--in this manner he continued untill he threw himself into a fit and was carried off the deck in a manner dead, however he soon recover'd and did very well. We had no sooner got into the sE Trade wind then we felt its happy effects, tho we lost several men after, but they were such as were brought so low and week that there was hardly a possibillity of their recovering, and yet some of them linger'd out in a state of suspence a month after who in all probabillity would not have lived 24 hours before this change happen'd. Those that were not so far gone remaind in the same state for some time and at last began to recover; some few however were seiz'd with the disorder after we got into the Trade wind but they had it but slitely and soon got over it. It is worth remarking that of all those who had it in its last stage only one man live'd who is now in a fair way of recovering, and I think Mr Banks was the only one that was cure'd at the first Attack'd that had it to a great degree, or indeed attall before we got into the SE Trade, for it was before that time that his cure was happily effected. It is to be wish'd for the Good of all Seamen and Mankind in General that some preventative was found out against this disease and put in practice in climates where it is common; for it is impossible to Victual and water a ship in those climates but what some one Article or a nother, according to different peoples opinions, must have been the means of bringing on the flux. We were inclinable to lay it to the Water we took in at Princes Island and the Turtle we got their, on which we lived for several days, but there seems to be no reason for this when we consider that all the Ships from Batavia this year suffered by the same disorder as much as we have done, and many of them arrived at this place in a far worse state, and yet not one of these Ships took in any water at Princes Island; the same may [459 be said of the Harcourt Indiman Capt Paul who saild from Batavia soon after our arrival, directly for the Coast of Sumatra--we after- wards heard that she in a very short time lost by sickness above twenty Men. Indeed this seems to have been a year of General sick- ness over most parts of India, the Ships from Bengall and Madrass bring melancholy accounts of the havock mad[e] there by the United force of sickness and famine. Some few days after we left Java we saw for 3 or 4 evenings suc- ceeding one another Boobies fly about the Ship, now as these birds are known to roost every night on land they seem'd to indicate that some Island was in our neighbourhood, probabily it might be the Island <1Selam>1 which Island I find differently laid down in different Charts, both in name and situation. The Variation of the Compass off the west Coast of Java is about 3o West, which variation continues without any sincible difference in the common Track of Ships to the Longitude of 288o West, Latitude 22o 0' s. After this it begins to increase a pace in so much that in the Longd of 295o, Latd 23o, the Variation was 10o 20' W. In 7o more of Longde and one of Latde it increased 2o, in the same space farther to the West it increase'd 5o. In the Latitude of 28o and Longitude 314o it was 24o 20', in the Latitude of 29o and Longitude of 317o it was 26o 10' and continued to be much the same for the space of 10o farther to the west. But in the Lat. of 34o, Longd 333o we observed it twice to be 281/4o West, and this was the greatest Variation we observ'd for in the Latitude of 351/2o, Longd 337o, it was 24o and continued decreasing, so that off Cape Laguillas it was 22o 30' and in Table Bay it was 20o 30' West. From what I have observed of the Currents it doth not appear that they are attall considerable untill you draw near the Meridian of Madagascar; for after we had made 52o of Longitude from Java head, we found by observation our error in Longitude was only 2o, and it was the same when we had made only 19o, this Error might partly be owing to a Current seting to the Westward or what I thought most lik[e]ly, that we did not make sufficient allowence for the set of the Sea before when we run, and lastly the Assumed Longitude of Java head might be wrong: if any error lays there it arises from the Im- perfection of the Charts I made use of in reducing the Longitude from Batavia to the above mentioned head, for it cannot be doubted but the Longitude of Batavia is well determined. After we had pass'd the Longitude of 307o we began to find the effects of the Westerly Currents, for in three days our error in Longitude was 1o 5'. Its Velocity kept increasing as we got to the Westward, in so much that for five days successivily after we had made the land we were drove 460] to the sw or SWBW by the Currents not less then 20 leagues a Day, and this continued untill we were within 60 or 70 Leagues of the Cape, we then found the current to set some times one way and some times another but mostly to the westward. After the Boobies above mentioned left us we Saw no more birds till we got nearly abreast of Madagascar where in the Latitude of 273/4o We saw an A[l]batross: after that time we saw of these birds every day and in greater number together with several other sorts, one sort about as big as a Duck of a very dark brown Colour with a Yallowish bill,s the number of these birds increasd upon us as we approach'd the shore. As soon as we got into Soundings we saw Gannets,s which we continued to see as long as we were on the bank which stretches off from Cape Lagulas 4o Leagues, and Extends a long shore to the Eastward from Cape False, according to some Charts 160 Leagues; the extent of this Bank is not well known however it is usefull in directing Shipping when to haul in to make the land. SATURDAY 16<1th.>1 Variable Light airs all this Day. Moor'd the Ship and struck Yards and Topmasts and in the Moming got all the Sick (28) ashore to quarters provided for them and got off fresh meat and greens for the people on board. SUNDAY 17<1th.>1 In the AM saild for England the Admiral Pocock Capt Riddels by whome I sent letters to the Admiralty & Royal Society. About Noon came on a hard dry gale from the SE. MONDAY 18<1th>1. In the PM Anchored in the offing An English Ship which prov'd to be the Holtons Indiaman from Bengal. In the AM it fell Moderate and we began to water the Ship. TUESDAY 19<1th.>1 Variable gentle breezes all this Day. Employ'd repairing sails, Riging, Watering &ca. WEDNESDAY 20<1th>1. In the PM saild the Holton Indiaman who saluted us with a 11 Guns, which Compliment we returnd. This Ship during her stay in India lost by sickness between 30 and 40 Men and had at this time a good ma[n]y down with the scurvy, other Ships suffer'd in the same proportion, thus we find that Ships which have been little more than Twelve Months from England have suffer'd as much or more by Sickness than we have done who have been out near three times as long. Yet their sufferings will hardly if atall be mentioned or known in England when on the other hand those of the Endeavour, because the Voyage is uncommon, will very probable be mentioned in every News paper, and what is not unlikely with many additional [461 hardships we never experienced; for such are the disposission of men in general in these Voyages that they are seldom content with the hardships and dangers which will naturaly occur, but they must add others which hardly ever had existence but in their imaginations, by magnifying the most trifling accidents and Circumstances to the greatest hardships, and unsurmou[n]table dangers without the imidiate interposion of Providence, as if the whole Merit of the Voyage consisted in the dangers and hardships they underwent, or that real ones did not happen often enough to give the mind sufficient anxiety; thus posteriety are taught to look upon these Voyages as hazardous to the highest degree. THURSDAY 21<1st.>1 Fine pleasent weather. Employ'd geting on board water, overhauling the Riging and repairing Sails. Saild for Batavia a Dutch Ship. FRIDAY 22<1nd>1. Mostly fine pleasent weather, on the 23rd we SATURDAY 23<1rd>1. compleated our water after which I gave as SUNDAY 24<1th>1. many of the people leave to go aShore to MONDAY 25<1th>1. refresh themselves, as could be Spar'd at one TUESDAY 26<1th>1. time. WEDNEsDAY 27<1th>1. Winds Variable and clear pleasent weather. Saild for Holland four sail of Dutch Ships. THURSDAY 28<1th>1. Winds and weather as above. Empd fixing New FRIDAY 29<1th>1. Topmast Backstays, repairing Sails &ca. SATURDAY 30<1th>1. In the PM Anchor'd here the Duke of Gloucester English East India Ship from China. In the Evening a prodigious hard gale of wind came on at SE which continued till about 3 oClock in the morning. During the gale the Table Mountain and adjacent hills were Cap'd with extraordinary white clowds, the remainder of the Day light airs and pleasent weather. SUNDAY 31<1st.>1 Clear pleasent weather all this day. In the morning we got on board a whole Ox which we cut up and salted. I had eat ashore some of as good and fat beef as ever I eat in my life and was told that I might have as good to salt, but in this I was very much disapointed; the one I got was thin and lean, yet well taisted, it weighed 408 lbs. [APRIL 1771] MONDAY 1<1st.>1 Apl. In the PM I observ'd a dark dence haze like a fog bank in the SE Horizon and white clowds began to gather over the Table Mountain, certain signs of an aproaching gale from the same 462] quarter, which about 4 oClock began to blow with great Voylance and continued more or less so the remainder of these 24 hours, the Table mountain Cap'd with white Clowds all the time, the weather dry and clear. TUESDAY 2<1nd.>1 First part fresh gales at sE the remainder little wind & Calms. In the PM saild for England the Duke of Glocester Indiaman who saluted us at her departure. In the AM Anchor'd here two Dutch Ships from Batavia, and a third at Anchor under Penguin Island in distress put on shore some sick people. WEDNESDAY 3<1rd.>1 Fine Pleasent weather. Some people a shore on liberty to refresh, the rest employ'd repairing Sails and overhauling the Rigging. THURSDAY 4<1th.>1 Weather as yesterday. Empd painting the Ship and Paying her sides. FRIDAY 5<1th.>1 Variable Light winds. Saild for Holland three Dutch Ships. Employ'd as above and geting on board Provisions &ca. SATURDAY 6<1th.>1 Gentle breezes, with some Rain in the night. SUNDAY 7<1th.>1 Gentle breezes and fine pleasent weather. A Signl for some Ships being in the offing. MONDAY 8<1th.>1 Gentle breezes from the Westward. In the night Anchor'd here the Europa an English East Indiaman from Bengall and in the Morning she saluted uss which compliment we return'd. TUESDAY 9<1th.>1 Little wind at sw, with Fogy hazey weather. Employ'd makeing ready for sea. WEDNESDAY 10<1th.>1 Gentle breezes at ssE and fair weather. Took on board 11 of our People from Sick quarters. THURSDAY 11<1th.>1 Winds and weather as yesterday. Employ'd geting on board various Articles of Provisions from the Shore. FRIDAY 12<1th.>1 Winds at sw fair weather. Set up the Topmast rigging and bent the sails. SATURDAY 13<1th.>1 Fresh breezes at sw and Clowdy hazey weather. In the night Anchord here a Dutch Ship from Holland; she saild about 3 Months ago in company with two more, the news brought by this Ship is that a War wass Dayly expected between England and Spain. Signals out for 4 or 5 sail more being in the offing one of which is said to be a Ship from England. Took leave of the Governor in- tending to Sail to morrow. [463 SUNDAY 14<1th.>1 Winds Westerly gentle breezes. In the PM got all the sick on board many of whome was yet in a very bad state of hilth: three died here but this loss was made up by the oppertunity we had of compleating our full Compliment. In the Morning unmoor'd and got ready for sailing. MONDAY 15<1th.>1 None of the Ships in the Offing are yet arrived. Diserous as we must be of hearing news from England I determine'd not to wait the arrival of these Ships, but took the advantage of a breeze of wind from the WSW, wiegh'd and stood out of the Bay. Saluted with 13 Guns which compliment was returnd both by the Castle and Dutch Commodore, the Europa saluted us as we pass'd her, which we returnd; this Ship was to have saild with or before us, but not likeing the oppertunity she lay fast. At 5 in the Evening Anchor'd under Penguin or Robin Island in 10 fathom water, this Island Extending from WNW to ssw, distant 1 1/2 or 2 Miles. In the Morning saw a Ship Standing into Table Bay under English Colours which we took to be an Indiaman. At Noon Latitude Ob- served 33o 49', Cape Town S 20o East, distant 7 Miles. As we could not sail in the Morning for want of wind I sent a boat to the Island for a few trifling articles we had forgot to take in at the Cape, but the people ashore would not permit her to land so that she return'd as she went and I gave my self no farther trouble about it. Mr Banks who was in the Boat was of opinion that it was owing to a mistake made respecting the rank of the officer commanding the boat; be this as it may it seems probable that the Dutch do not admit of strangers landing upon this Island least they should carry off some of those people which for certain crimes they banish here for life, as we were told was done by a Dainish Ship a few years ago; but they might have a better reason for refuseing our boat to land, for it is not im- probable but what there might be some English Seamen upon this Island whome they had sent from the Cape while we lay there, well knowing that if they came in my way I should take them on board, and this I am told is frequently done when any of His Majestys Ships are in the Bay, for it is well known that the Dutch East India Ships are mostly man'd by foreigners. The <1Cape of Good Hope>1 hath been so often discrib'd by Authors and is so well known to Europeans that any discriptions I can give of it may appear unnecessary. However I cannot help observing that most Authors, particularly the Author of Mr Byrons Voyage,s have 464] heighten'd the picture to a very great degree above what it will bear, so that a stranger is at once struck with surprise and disapointment, for no Country we have seen this Voyage affords so barren a prospect as this, and not only so in appearence but in reallity. The land over the Cape which constitutes the Peninsula form'd by Table Bay on the north and False Bay on the South consists of high barren Mountains, behind these to the East or what may be call'd the Isthmus is a vast extensive Plain, not one thousand part of which either is or can be cultivated. The soil consists mostly of a light kind of Sea Sand pro- duceing hardly any thing but heath, every Inch of ground that will bear cultivation is taken up in small Plantation[s] consisting of Vine- yards, Orchards, Kitchen Gardens &ca, hardly any two lay together, but are despers'd at some distance one from another. If we may Judge from circumstances the Interior parts of this Country is not more fertile, that is the fertile land bears a very small proportion to the whole; we were told that they have settlements 28 days journey inland which is computed at 900 English Miles, and thus far they bring provisions to the Cape by land Carriage. It is also said that the Dutch farmers are so despers'd about the Country that some have no neighbours within four or five days journey of them; admiting these to be facts and it will at once appear that the Country in general cannot be very fertile, for it would be absurd to suppose that they would raise provisions at such an emence distance, where the trouble and expence of bringing them to market must increase in proportion, could it be done nearer. The Dutch assign another reason for being oblige'd to extend their scater'd settlements so far inland, which is that they never disturb the original Natives but always leave them in peaceable posession of whatever lands they may have approbated to their own use, which in some places is pretty extensive and that probably none of the worst, by which good policy the new settlers very seldom if ever meet with any disturbance from the natives; on the Contraory many of them become their servants and mix among them and are usefull members to Society. Notwithstanding the many disadvantages this Country labours under such is the Industry, Oconomy and good management of the Dutch that not only the necessarys but all the luxuries of life are rais'd here in as great abundance, and are sold as cheape if not cheaper then in any part of Europe some few articles excepted. Naval Stores however do not want for Price any more here than they do at Batavia, these are only sold by the Company who have a certain fix'd exorbitant price from which the[y] never deviate. The Inhabitants of the Cape Town are in general well bred and [465 extremely civile and polite to all strangers, indeed it is their Intrest so to do for the whole Town may be consider'd as one great Inn fited up for the reception of all comers and goers. Upon the whole there is perhaps not a place in the known World that can equal this in affording refreshments of all kinds to Shipping. The Bay is Capacious, pretty safe and commodious, it lies open to the Nw winds, which winds we are told very Seldom blow strong,s but some times sends in a great sea for which reason Ships moor NE and SW and in such a manner as to have an open hawse with Nw winds; the SE winds blows frequently with great Volience but as this is right out of the Bay itis attended with no danger. Near the Town is a Warfe built of Wood run out a proper distance into the Sea for the Conveniency of landing and Shipping offgoods, to this warfe water is convey'd in pipes, and by means of Cocks several boats may fill water at one and the same time. The company keep several large strong Boats or Hoys to carry goods, Provisions, Water &ca to and from Shipping as well strangers as their own. Fuel is one of the scarcest articles they have and is brought a long way out of the Country and consi[s]ts of Roots of Trees Shrubs &ca. Except a few English Oaks which they have planted this Country is wholy distitute of Wood, except at too great a distance to be brought to the Cape. In the Article of Timber Boards &ca they are chiefly supply['d] from Batavia. Three of the Winter Months (viz) from the Middle of May to the Middle of August the Dutch do not allow any of their Ships to lay in Table Bay, but oblige them to go into false Bay where there is a very safe harbour,s and every other conveniency both for their own shipping and strangers and where every produce of the Country can be had as cheape as at the Cape Town. The Dutch I am told never diveat this custom of sending their Ships to False Bay at this season of the Year, notwithstand[ing] there has not a gale of wind happen'd for many Years that would have put them in the least danger in Table Bay. Table Bay is defended by a Square Fort situated on the East side of the Town close to the Sea beach, together with several other out works and Battries along the Shore of the Bay on each side of the Town; they are so situated as to be Cannonaded by Shipping and are in a manner defenceless againest a Superior land force. The Garrison at present consists of 8oo Regulars besides the Militia of the Country which comprehends every man able to bear arms. They can, by 466] means of Signals, alarm the whole country in a very short time and then every man is emmidiately to repair to the Cape Town. The French at Mauritius are supply'd with large quantitys of Provisions from the Cape (viz) Salted Beef, Biscuit, Flour and wine; while we lay in the Bay two store Ships belonging to the King of the burthen of 50 or 60 Gun Ships and a snow, sail'd for that Island Load[ed] with Provisions besides a Large Kings Frigate we left in the Bay takeing in her Cargo. The Provisions contracted for by the French this year were Salt Beef 500,000 lbs Flour 400,000 lbs Biscuit 400,000 lbs and Wine 1200 Leagers.s TUESDAY Apl. 16<1th.>1 At 2 oClock in the PM saw a Large Ship behind the Island under French Colours standing into Table Bay. At 3 Wieghd with a light breeze at SE and put to Sea. At 4 Departed this Life Mr Robt Molineux Master, a young man of good parts but had unfortunately given himself up to extravecancy and intemperance which brought on disorders that put a pirod to his life. At 6 we had the Table mountain and the Penguin Island in one bearing SSE, distant from the latter about 4 or 5 miles. Had it calm most part of the night, in the morning a light breeze sprung up Southerly with which we steer'd NW. At Noon we were by observation in Lat. 33o 30' South. The Table mountain bore s 54o E distant 14 Leagues.--N.B. The Table Mountain lies dire[c]tly over the Cape Town from which last I take my departure, it lies in the Latitude of 33o 56' South and Longitude 341 o37' West from Greenwich. WEDNESDAY 17<1th. Winds Southerly. Courses N>1 50o <1Wt. Distce saild>1 <1miles 1>1 18. <1Latitude in South>1 32o 14'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 344o8'. Fresh breezes and fair weather, with a swell from ye SW. THURSDAY 18<1th. Winds Do. Courses NW. Distce saild miles>1 85. <1Latitude in South>1 31o 14'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 345o 19'. Gentle breezes and clear weather, swell as before. FRIDAY 19<1th. Winds SE to NW. Courses N>1 50o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 16- <1Latitude in South>1 31o 4'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 345o 33'. Little wind and some tirnes Calm, swell from ye Southward. [467 SATURDAY 20<1th. Winds Westerly. Latitude in South>1 29o 40'. <1Longd in>1 <1West from Greenwich>1 346o 10'. Gentle breezes and Clear weather. SUNDAY 21<1st. Winds Southerly. Courses N>1 54o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 100. <1Latitude in South>1 28o 43'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 347o 42'. A Moderate Trade wind and pleasent weather. MONDAY 22<1nd. Winds SE. Courses N>1 5oo <1Wt. Distce Saild miles>1 118. <1Latitude in South>1 27o 27'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 349o 24'. A Fresh Trade and pleasent weather. Exercise'd the people at small Arms. Observations for Longitude pr @ & > agree with the Logg. TUESDAY 23<1rd. Winds SEBS to WSW. Courses N>1 46o <1Wt. Distce Saild>1 <1miles>1 98 <1M. Latitude in South>1 26o 19'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 350o 42'. Gentle breezes and Clear weather. Found the Variation in the evening by the Amplitude to be 17o 40' West and by Azimuths in the Morning 18o 37'. Employ'd repairing Boats and Sails, and exerciseing the Great Guns and Small Arms. WEDNESDAY 24<1th. Winds West and WNW. Courses N>1 20o <1Wt. Distce>1 <1Saild>1 78. <1Latitude in South>1 25o 6'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 351o16'. Do Weather. Found the Variation to be 17o 30' W. Employ'd as yesterday. THURSDAY 25<1th. Winds NW to SW. Courses N>1 20o <1Wt. Distce Saild>1 <1miles>1 105. <1Latitude in South>1 23o 28'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 351o 52'. First part Moderate and clear. Middle squaly with rain, Latter fresh gales & Clowdy. Employ'd as above. FRIDAY 26<1th. Winds SSW to SEBS. Courses N>1 50o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 168. <1Latitude in South>1 21o 40'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 354o 12'. Fresh Gales and a large swell from the Southward. SATURDAY 27<1th. Winds SE>11/2<1S. Courses N>1 55o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 168 <1M. Latitude in South>1 20o 4'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 356o 40'. Fresh gales and clowdy. Empd repairing sails. SUNDAY 28<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 56o 30' <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 152. <1Latitude in South>1 18o 41'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 358o 54'. Do Weather. Variation pr Azth 14o West. MONDAY 29<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 53o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 136. <1Latitude in South>1 17o 19'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 0o 50'. Do Gales. Variation 13o 53' W. In the AM cross'd the line of our first Meredean, viz. that of Greenwich having now circumnavigated the Globe in a west direction. TUESDAY 30<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 58o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 126 <1Ms.>1 <1rat. in South>1 16o 11'. <1Long in West>1 2o 42'. Fresh gales & pleasent weather. Exercised the People at Great Guns & Small Arms. 468] [MAY 1771] WEDNESDAY 1<1st. Winds SE.>1 Fresh Trade and pleasent weather. At 6 in the AM Saw the Island of St Helena bearing West distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Anchord in the Road before James Fort in 24 fathom water. Found riding here His Majestys Ship Portland, Swallow Sloop and 12 sail of Indiamen. At our first seeing this fleet in the Road we took it for granted that it was a war, but in this we were soon agreeably deceived. The Europa Indiaman Anchor'd here a little before us, she saild from the Cape two days after us and brings an account the French Ship we saw standing into Table Bay was a French Man of War of 64 Guns bound to India and that more weres on their passage. THURSDAY 2<1nd. Winds SE. At Anchor in St Helena Road.>1 Clear pleasent weather. In the PM Moor'd with the Kedge Anchor, and in the AM recieved some few Officers stores from the Portland. FRIDAY 3<1rd. Winds Do. At Anchor in St Helena Road.>1 Do Wear. Employ'd repairing sails, overhauling the Rigging &ca. SATURDAY 4<1th. Winds Do. At Anchor in St Helena Road.>1 Little wind and pleasent weather. At 6 In the AM the Portland made the Signal to unmoor and at Noon to wiegh at which time the Ships began to get under sail. SUNDAY 5<1th. Winds EBS. Courses N>1 50o 30' <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 71. <1Lat. in South>1 15o 5'. <1Longd in West>1 6o 46'. Gentle breezes and clear wear. At 1 PM weigh'd and Stood out of the Road in Company with the Portland and 12 Sail of Indiamen.s At 6 oClock James Fort St Helena bore E1/2S distant 3 Leagues. In the AM found the Variation to be 13o 10' W. MONDAY 6<1th. Winds ESE. Courses N>1 471/2o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 122. <1Lat. in South>1 13o 42'. <1Longd in West>1 8o 27'. Moderate breezes and Clowdy weather. Sailing in Company with the fleet. TUESDAY 7<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 46o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 137. <1Lat.>1 <1in South>1 12o 5'. <1Longd in West>1 10o 9'. Weather as yesterday. In the AM found the Varn to be 12o5' West. Exercized the people at Great Guns & Small Arms. [469 WEDNESDAY 8<1th. Winds SE. Courses N>1 46o45' <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 126. <1Lat. in South>1 10o 39'. <1Longd in West>1 11o 42'. A Steady breeze and pleasent weather. All the Fleet in company. THURSDAY <19th. Winds SEBS. Courses NW. Distce saild miles>1 118. <1Lat>1 <1in South>1 9o 16'. <1Longd in West>1 13o 7'. No Alteration in the weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 11o 42' West. FRIDAY 10<1th. Winds Do. Courses NW. Distce saild miles>1 120. <1Lat in>1 <1South>1 7o 51'. <1Longd in West>1 14o32'. At 6 in the AM saw the Island of Ascention bearing NNW distant 7 Leagues. Made Signal to speak with the Portland and soon after Capt Elliot himself came on board to whome I dilivered a letter for the Admiralty and a box containing the Ships common Log books and some of the Officers Journals &ca. I did this because it seem'd probable that the Portland would get home before [us]s as we sail much heavier than any of the fleet. At Noon the Island of Ascention bore EBS Distant 4 or 5 Leagues--by our Observations it lies in the Latitude of 7o 54' s and Longitude of 14o18' West. A NwBN Course by Compass or NW a little westerly by the Globe, from St Helena will bring you directly to this Island. SATURDAY 11<1th. Winds SEBS. Courses N>1 42o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 117. <1Lat. in South>1 6o 24'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 15o 51'. A Steady Trade wind and pleasent weather. At 1/2 past 6 PM the Island of Ascention bore SE3/4E Distt 11 or 12 Leagues. Sailing in company with the fleet. SUNDAY 12<1th. Winds SEBS to SEBE. Courses N>1 31o 15' <1Wt. Distce>1 <1saild miles>1 123. <1Lat in South>1 4o38'. <1Longd in West of Greenwich>1 16o54'. First and middle parts a steady breeze and fair, the latter light squals with rain. MONDAY 13<1th. Winds SEBS. Courses N>1 321/2o <1Wt. Distce saild>1 <1Lat in South>1 2o 58'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 17o 58'. Gentle breezes and clear weather, hot and sultry. Sailing in company with the Fleet. Variation 10o West. TUESDAY 14<1th. Winds SEBS. Courses N>1 321/2o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 109. at <1in South>1 1o 26'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 18o 57'. Weather as Yester- day. WEDNESDAY 15<1th. Winds ESE. Courses>1 N321/2o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 85. <1Lat in South>1 0o 14'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 19o 43'. Little wind and hot sultry weather. In the PM Observed meerly for the sake of Observing an Eclips of the Sun. In the AM brought another Fore Topsail to the Yard the Old one being quite wore out. 470] THURSDAY 16<1th. Winds SEBS. Courses N>1 31o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 71. <1Lat. in North 0o 47'. Longd in West of Greenwh>1 20o 20'. Light breezes & fair weather. Variation 9o 30' West. FRIDAY 17<1th. Winds Do. Courses>1 N31o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 61. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 1o 39'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 20o 52'. Do Weather. Sailing in Company with the fleet. SATURDAY 18<1th. Winds SSE to Et. Courses>1 N20o <1Wt. Distce saild>1 <1miles>1 86. <1Lat in North>1 3o 0'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 21o 22'. First part light breezes and fair weather, Remainder Squaly with Thunder & some rain. The Observed Latitude is 14 Miles to the Northward of the Log. Sailing in Company with the Fleet. SUNDAY 19<1th. Winds SE to SBE. Courses N>1 20o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 98. <1Lat in North>1 4o 32'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 21o 58'. Clowdy unsettled Weather with some rain. In the AM found the Variation by the Ampde and Azth 7o 40' West. Hoisted a boat out and sent on board the Houghton for the Surgeon Mr Carret in order to look at Mr Hicks who is so far gone in a Consumption that his Life is de[s]paired of. Obsern at Noon 16 Miles to the northward of the Log. MONDAY 20<1th. Winds Varble between ye S & E. Courses North>1 19o <1Wt.>1 <1Distce saild miles>1 70. <1Lat in North>1 5o 38'. <1Longd in West>1 22o 21'. Dark Clowdy unsettled weather with rain. At Noon the Observed Latitude was 27 Miles to the northward of the Log. Sailing in Com- pany with the fleet. TUESDAY 21<1st. Winds Varble. Courses>1 N31o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 35. <1Lat in North>1 6o 8'. <1Longd in West>1 25o 8'. Little wind with some heavy showers of rain. At 2 oClock in the PM had some Observations of the Sun and Moon which gave the Longitude 24o 50' W, 2o 28' West of Accot. In the Morning it was Calm and the Ships being near one a nother several of them had their boats out to tow. We observed the Portland carry out a long warp; I being desirous to see [the] Machine they made use of we hoisted out a boat and Mr Banks, Dr Solander and my self went on board her where we was shew'd it, it was made of Canvas in every respect like an Umbrello, its circum- ferance if extended to a circle was 24 feet; tho this was a small one of the sort yet Capt Elliot told me that it would hold as much as 150 Men could haul. I was so well satisfied of the utillity of this Machine that I would not have delay'd a moment in having one made, had not our Forge been render'd useless by the Loss of some of its parts.s [471 WEDNESDAY 22<1nd. Winds Do. Courses NNW3/4W. Distce saild miles>1 58. <1Lat in Worth>1 6o 58'. <1Longd in West>1 25o 38'. Variable unsettled weather with rain. About 9 oClock in the AM the Portland shortend Sail for the Sternmost Ships to come up as we emagined, this gave us an oppertunity to get a head of the fleet after which we made such Sail as was necessary to keep in company. THURSDAY 23<1rd. Winds East to NE. Courses>1 N25o <1Wt. Distce saild>1 <1miles>1 56. <1Lat in North>1 7o 49'. <1Longd in West>1 26o 2'. Little wind from the Eastward with frequent Showers of Rain and hazey weather. The fleet a Stern of us all this Day. At Noon we shorten'd Sail for them to come up the headmost being about 2 Leagues off. FRIDAY 24<1th. Winds NE & NNE. Courses N>1 54o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 92. <1Lat in North>1 8o 42'. <1Longd in West>1 27o 18'. First part Moderate breezes and hazey with rain, the latter a fresh breeze and fair. At 3 oClock in the PM find[ing] the fleet to come fast up with us W all the Sail we could. Soon after it became hazey and we lost sight of them untill near 6 when it cleared up a Little and we saw three Sail abreast of us, bearing East about 2 or 3 Miles distance, by this we saw that they not only kept a better wind but out saild us upon a wind. It became again hazey and we lost sight of them and notwith- standing we kept close upon a Wind alnight with as much sail out as we could bear there was not one sail in sight in the Morning. SATURDAY 25th. <1Winds NNE. Courses N>1 50o 15' <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 92. <1Lat in North>1 9o 41'. <1Longd in West>1 28o 30'. Moderate Trade wind and clowdy weather. SUNDAY 26<1th. Winds NEBN. Courses N>1 46o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 92. <1Lat in North>1 10o 47'. <1Longd in West>1 29o 35'. A Steady Trade and Clowdy weather. About one oClock in the pm departed this life Lieutt Hicks and in the evening his body was commited to the Sea with the usual ceremonies; he died of a Consumption which he was not free from when we saild from England so that it may be truly said that he hath been dieing ever sence, tho he held out tollerable well untill we got to Batavia. MONDAY 27<1th. Winds NE. Courses N>1 39o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 103. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 12o 7' <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 30o40'. A Steady fresh Trade and Clowdy weather. This day I gave Mr Charles Clerk an order to Act 472] as Lieutenant in the Room of Mr Hicks deceased, he being a young Man extremely well quallified for that station. TUESDAY 28<1th. Winds NEerly. Courses N>1 40o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 108. <1Lat in North>1 13o 30'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 31o 51'. A Steady Trade & fair weather. WEDNESDAY 29<1th. Winds Do. Courses>1 N311/2o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 128. <1Lat. in North>1 15o 19'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 33o 2'. Fresh gales & hazey. THURSDAY 30<1th. Winds Do. Courses N>1 31o 15' <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 124. <1Lat in North>1 17o 5'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 34o 9'. Do gales & Clowdy. Fix'd a New Main Topmast Back Stay the old having broke Several times. FRIDAY 31<1st. Winds NE & NEBE. Courses N>1 391/2o <1W. Dist saild miles>1 136. <1Lat in North>1 18o 50'. <1Longd in West of Greenwh>1 35o 40'. Strong gales and Clowdy. In the evening got down Topgt Yards and in the Morning found the Variation to [be] 5o 9' W. [JUNE 1771] SATURDAY 1<1st. Winds NE. Courses N>1 35o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 100. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 20o 12'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 36o 41'. Fresh Trade & Clowdy weather. In the AM got up topgt yrds. SUNDAY 2<1nd. Winds NE to NNE. Courses N>1 49o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 104. <1Lat in North>1 21o 20'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 38o 5'. Moderate gales & Clear weather. Variation 5o 4' West. MONDAY 3<1rd. Winds NE. Courses N>1 44o Wt. Dist saild miles>1 85. <1Lat in>1 <1North>1 22o 21'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 39o 9'. A Gentle Trade wind & pleasent weather. TUESDAY 4<1th. Winds Do. Courses N>1 34o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 91. <1Lat in>1 <1North>1 23o 40'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 40o 4'. Do Weather. In the AM found the Varn to be 4o 30' West. WEDNESDAY 5<1th. Winds Do. Courses N>1 32o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 83. <1Lat in North>1 24o 31'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 41o 11'. Gentle breezes with some showers of small rain. THURSDAY 6<1th. Winds ENE to E. Courses N3/4W. Dist saild miles>1 90. <1Lat in North>1 26o 1'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 43o 18' <1pr Obn @ & >.>1 Weather as yesterday. In ye AM found the Variation by the Mean of ye Ampd & Azths to be 5o 34' West, and by Observation ofthe Sun and Moon found the Ship in Longd 43o 18' w of Greenwich, 2o 51' West of the Log sence the last observations, this I judge to be owing to a westerly Current. [473 FRIDAY 7<1th. Winds ENE. Courses N>1 15o <1Wt. Dist saild miles>1 84. <1Lat in>1 <1North>1 27o 22'. <1Longd in West Greenwh>1 43o 42'. Moderate breezes & Clowdy. AM Variation pr Mean of 20 Azimuths 5o 20' West. SATURDAY 8<1th. Winds Easterly. Courses North. Distce saild miles>1 88. <1Lat in North>1 28o 50'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 43o 42'. Moderate breeses and pleasent Weather. In the AM found the Variation to be 5o 24' West, and by Observations of the Sun & Moon the Longitude of the Ship at Noon was 43o 42' W. SUNDAY 9<1th. Winds Easterly. Courses North B W1/2 W. Distce saild miles>1 81. <1Lat in North>1 30o 11'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 44o 9'. Clear pleasent weather and a Smooth Sea. In the AM found the Variation to be 7o 33' West. Some Tropick Birdss flying about the Ship, we have seen of these birds every day sence we pass'd the Tropick. MONDAY 10<1th. Winds Do. Courses N>1 30o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 71. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 31o 12'. <1Longd>1 44o 50'. Little [wind] and clear weather. Exer- cised the people at small Arms. TUESDAY 11<1th. Winds NEBE. Courses N>1 18o <1Wt. Distce saild miles>1 67. <1Lat in North>1 32o 16'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 45o 14'. Weather as yesterday. A Smooth Sea. WEDNESDAY 12<1th. Winds EBS. Courses NNE. Distce saild miles>1 48. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 33o 8'. <1Longd in Westfrom Greenwich>1 44o 53'. Light breezes and clear weather. Variation by the Ampd in the Evening 7o 0' W, and by Azths in the Morning 6o 55' w. Exercised Great Guns and Small Arms. THURSDAY 13<1th. Winds Do. Courses NBE1/2E. Distce saild miles>1 77. <1Lat>1 in <1Worth>1 34o 14'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 44o 25'. Little wind and pleasent weather. Found the Variation by the Amplitude in the Evening to be 8o 23', In the Morning 8o 15' and by Azths soon after 8o 14' West. FRIDAY 14<1th. Winds SE. Courses NE1/2E. Distce saild miles>1 99. <1Lat in>1 <1North>1 35o 48'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 43o 48'. A Gentle Gale and pleasent weather. In the AM Saw Two Turtle laying a Sleep upon the water. SATURDAY 15<1th. Winds SE. Courses>1 NE1/2E. <1Distce saild miles>1 119. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 37o 2'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 41o 54'. Do Weather. At day light in the Morning Saw a Sloop to windward Standing to the Eastward which we run out of Sight by Noon. SUNDAY 16<1th. Winds Do. Courses NE>1 1/2<1E. Distce saild miles>1 119. <1Lat in>1 <1North>1 38o 18'. <1Longd in West from Greenwich>1 40o 38'. A Stead[y] breeze 474] & pleasent weather with some Rain in the night. At Day light in the Morning saw a Sail ahead which we came up and spoke with a little after 10o Clock. She proved a Portuguese Ship from Rio de Janeiro bound to Lisbon. MONDAY 17<1th. Winds SSE. Courses N>1 68o <1E. Distce saild miles>1 104. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 38o 57'. <1Longde in West of Greenwich>1 38o 36'. Steady gentle gales and pleasent weather. Variation in the Evening 9o West. TUESDAY 18<1th. Winds South. Courses N>1 66o <1E. Distce saild miles>1 82. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 39o 32'. <1Longde in West of Greenwich>1 36o 59'. Little wind and Clear weather. At 2 oClock in the PM found the Ship by Observation 1o 22' to the wistward of Account carried on from the last Observa- tions. In the Evening the Variation was found to be 14o 15' West and in the Morning 14o 24'. WEDNESDAY 19<1th. Winds S to SW. Courses N>1 73o <1E. Distce saild miles>1 127. <1Lat in North>1 40o 9'. <1Longde in West of Greenwich>1 36o 44'. Fresh gales and Clowdy. At 2 oClock in the PM found by observation the Same error in our Longitude as yesterday which I have now Corrected, the Longde of this day is that resulting from observation. At 10 oClock in the AM Saw a Sail ahead which we soon came up with and sent a boat on board, she was a Schooner from Roads Island out upon the Whale fishery--from her we learnt that all was peace in Europe and that the America disputes were made up, to Confirm this the Master said that the Coat on his back was made in Old England.s Soon after leaving this Vessel we spoke anothir from Boston and saw a third all out on the same account. THURSDAY 20<1th. Winds SW, NW, North. Courses N>1 801/2o <1E. Distce>1 <1saild miles>1 121. <1Lat in North>1 40o 29'. <1Longde in West of Greenwich>1 33o 10'. Fresh gales & Clowdy with some showers of rain. At day light in the morning saw a Sail a head standing to the E. A Swell from the NNW. FRIDAY 21<1st. Winds Northerly. Courses EBN. Distce saild miles>1 128. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 40o 53'. <1Longde in West of Greenwich>1 30o 20'. Fresh gales & Clowdy. In the PM Saw a Sail a Stern Standing to the SE and at 11 oClock AM Saw from the Mast head 13 Sail of Stout Ships which we took to be the East India fleet. SATURDAY 22<1nd. Winds N to NE. Courses North>1 81o <1E. Distce saild>1 <1miles>1 114. <1Lat in North>1 41o 11'. <1Longd in West>1 27o 52'. Fresh gales with Squalls attend[ed] with Rain. In the Evening had 14 Sail in sight, 13 [475 upon our lee quarter and a Snow upon our lee bow. In the night Split both Topgt Sails so much that they were obliged to be unbent to repair. In the Morning the Carpenter reported the Main Top mt to be sprung in the Cap which we supposed happen'd in the PM when both the weather backstays broke, our Rigging and Sails are now so bad that some thing or another is giving way every day. At Noon had 13 Sail in Sight which are well assured are the India fleet and are all now upon our weather quarter. SUNDAY 23rd. <1Winds NEBN to ENE. Courses S>1 691/2o <1E. Distce saild>1 <1miles>1 80. <1Lat in North>1 40o 43'. <1Longd in West>1 26o 13'. Fresh gales & Squally attend[ed] with showers of Rain. In the Evening all the fleet were to windward of us and in the Morn not one was to be seen. MONDAY 24<1th. Winds NE to ESE. Courses S>1 82o <1Et. Distce saild miles>1 64. <1Lat in Worth>1 40o 34'. <1Longd in West>1 24o 49'. First part Moderate breezes Remainder Squally. At Noon Taickd. TUESDAY 25<1th. Winds NE to NNE. Courses N>1 85o <1E. Distce saild miles>1 58. <1Lat in North>1 40o 39'. <1Longd in West>1 23o 33'. First part little wind, Remainder a fresh breeze & Clowdy. WEDNESDAY 26<1th. Winds NBE. Courses N>1 86o 45' <1E. Distce saild miles>1 92. <1Lat. in North>1 40o 43'. <1Longd in West>1 21o 58'. First part fresh breeze, Remainder little wind. THURSDAY 27<1th. Winds Westerly. Courses N>1 54o <1E. Distce saild miles>1 54. <1Lat in North>1 41o 14'. <1Longd in West>1 20o 59'. Moderate breezes & Clowdy weather. FRIDAY 28<1th. Winds W to NNW. Courses N>138o <1E. Distce saild miles>1 123. <1Lat in North>1 42o 55'. <1Longd in West>1 19o 18'. Fresh breezes with Showers of Rain. SATURDAY 29<1th. Winds SW to Wt and NE. Courses N>149o 15' <1E. Distce>1 <1saild miles>1 86. <1Lat in North>1 43o 39'. <1Longd in West>1 17o 36'. First part little wind, remainder fresh gales & Squally with Showers of Rain. SUNDAY 30<1th. Winds Northerly. Courses N>1 50o 45' <1E. Distce saild miles>1 87. <1Lat in North>1 44o 34'. <1Longd in West>1 16o 2'. Gentle breezes & fair weather. Vars in the Eveng 18o 30' W & in the Morn 19o 30'. [JULY 1771] MONDAY 1<1st. Winds Do. Courses N>1 77o 15' <1E. Distce saild miles>1 90. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 44o 54'. <1Longd in West>1 13o 59'. Do Weather. In the night past 2 Sail Standing to the SW. 476] TUESDAY 2<1nd. Winds Do. Courses East. Distce saild miles>1 42. <1Lat in>1 <1North>1 44o 54'. <1Longd in West>1 13o 2'. Little wind & Clowdy hazey weather. One Sail in Sight to the NE. WEDNESDAY 3<1rd. Winds N & NW. Courses N>1 56o <1E. Distce saild in>1 <1miles>1 54 <1Ms. Lat in North>1 45o 24'. <1Longde in West>1 11o 59' <1pr Log>1. 10s45' <1pr>1 <1Obn.>1 Little wind and pleasent Weather. At 9 AM found the Ship by observation of the Sun & Moon 1o 14' East of Account. Six Sail in Sight. THURSDAY 4<1th. Winds W, N & NE. Courses S>1 85o <1E. Distce saild in>1 <1miles>1 55. <1Lat in North>1 45o 29'. <1Longde in West>1 10o 44' <1pr Log.>1 9s27' <1pr Obn.>1 Gentle breezes & Clowdy weather. Variation pr Azths and Ampds in the Evening 21o 251/2' West and in the Morning 20o 10' West. FRIDAY 5<1th. Winds NE. Courses N>1 50o <1E. Distce saild in miles>1 8. <1Lat>1 <1in North>1 45o 34'. <1Longde in West>1 10o 32' <1pr Log.>1 9o 18' <1Obn.>1 Little Wind and Clowdy. At 1 pm spoke a Dutch Galliot bound to Riga. At 5 Tack'd & Stood to ye westward till 8 AM, than to ye Erd. SATURDAY 6<1th. Winds NNE. Courses N>1 72o 30' <1E. Distce saild in miles>1 37. <1Lat in North>1 45o 45'. <1Longde in West>1 9o 42' <1pr Log.>1 8o 28' <1pr Obn.>1 Gentle Breezes & Clowdy. At 1 PM sent a boat on board A Brig belong[ing] to Boston, last from Gibralter and bound to Falmouth. SUNDAY 7<1th. Winds NNE & NW. Courses N>1 50o <1E. Distce saild in>1 <1miles>1 49. <1Lat in North>1 46o 16'. <1Longde in West>1 9o 39' <1Accot>1 9o 29' <1Obn.>1 Gentle Breezes & Clear weather. In the evening found the Variation by the Ampde to be 22o 30's W. At 9 AM spoke a Brig from Liverpool bound to Porto and some time after another from London bound to the Grenades, she had been three Days from Scilly and reckoned her self in the Longitude of a bout 10o West, which was about 40' to the westward of what we found our selves to day by Observn. We learnt from this Vessell that no accounts had been received in England from us and that Wagers were held that we were lost,s it seems highly improbable that the letters sent by the Dutch Ships from Batavia should not be come to hand, as it is now five months sence these Ships Saild from the Cape of Good Hope. [477 MONDAY 8<1th. Winds NNW to SW. Courses N>146o45' <1E. Distce saild in>1 <1miles>1 43. <1Lat in North>1 46o 45'. <1Longde in West>1 8o 54'. Little wind and hazey weather. Swell from ye Northward. TUESDAY 9<1th. Winds S Westerly. Courses N>121o <1E. Distce saild in miles>1 100. <1Lat in North>1 48o 19'. <1Longde in West>1 8o 1' <1pr Accot>1 8o7' <1pr Obn.>1 Fore & Middle parts a Gentle breeze & thick Foggy weather, remainder a fresh breeze & Clowdy, a Swell from the NNW all day. WEDNESDAY 10<1th. Winds Westerly. Courses N>144o <1E. Distce saild in>1 <1miles>1 97. <1Lat in North>1 49o 29'. <1Longde in West>1 6o 18'. Pleasent breezes & Clear weather. At 6 o'Clock in the Morning Sounded and Struck ground in 60 fathom, Shells & Stones by which I judged we were the Length of Scilly Isles. At Noon we saw Land from the Mast head bearing North which wejudged to be about the Lands end. Soundings 54 fm Course grey sand. THURSDAY 11<1th>1 July. Steady fresh breeze and Clear weather. At 2 In the PM saw the Lizard land and at 6 o'Clock the Light Housess bore NW Distant 5 Leagues, we being at this time by my Reckoning in the Longitude of 5o 30 W. Soon after saw two Ships under their Topsails between us and the [land] which we took for Men of War. ft 7 oClock in the Morning the Start Point bore NwBN distant 3 Leagues, and at Noon we Reckoned our selves about 5 Leagues short of Portland. This Fore noon a small cutter built Vessel came under our Stern and enquired after the India fleet, which they said they were cruzing for and had not seen. FRIDAY 12<1th.>1 Winds at SW a fresh gale with which we Run briskly up Channell. At 1/2 past 3 PM pass'd the Bill of Portland and at 7 Peverell point. At 6 AM pass'd Beachy head at the distance of 4 or 5 Miles, at 10 Dungenness at the distance of 2 Miles and at Noon we were abreast of Dover. [SATURDAY 13<1th.>1 At 3 oClock in the PM Anchor'd in the Downs, & soon after I landed in order to repair to London.]s 478] POSTSCRIPT I have made mention in Book 1, page [98-100] of Two Spanish Ships touching at Georges Island some Months before our arrival there. Upon our arrival at Batavia we were inform'd that two French Ships commanded by the Sieur de Bougainville had put in there about two years before us in their way home from the South Sea: We were told many circumstances relateing to these two Ships all tending to prove behond a doubt that they were the same two as were at Georges Island as above mentioned, which we than conjector'd to be Spaniards, being lead into that mistake by the Spanish Iron &ca we saw a mong the Natives and by Toobouratom[i]ta pitching upon the Colours of that nation for those they wore, in which he might very easly be mistaken; but as to the Iron &ca there might be no mistake for we were told that either one or both of these Ships had put into the River de la Plata, where they disposed of all their European goods, brought for that purpose, and purchased others to trade with the Islanders in the South sea, and I think we were told that they also touched upon the Spanish Main in the South Sea; as a proof of their having been tradeing with the Spaniards Bougainvilles Ship had on board a great quantity of Spanish Dollars at the time she arrived at and left Batavia. Some days after our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I was told by some French officers lately come from the Island Maritius that <1Oretti>1 the Native of Georges Island which Bougain- ville brought away with him, was now at the Maritius and that they were going to fit out a Ship to carry him to his Native Country where they intend to make a.Settlement, a Hundred Troops for that purpose were to go out in the same Ship: this account is confirmed by a French Gentlemen we have on boards who has very lately been at the Maritius. As I have no reason to doubt the truth of this account it leads me to consid[er] the rout that this Ship must take, which I think can be no other than that of Tasmans as far as the coast of New Zeland, and if she fall in with that Coast to the Southward of Cape Fare-well will very probably put into Admiralty Bay or Queen Charlottes Sound, as Tasmans Track will in some measure point out to her one or the other of these places. I think it is not likely she will venture through the strait, even suppose she discovers it, but will follow Tasma[n]s Track to the North Cape where no doubt she will leave him, and follow the direction of the Coast to the South Eastwrd as it will not be out of her way, by which means she will fall in with [479 the Most Fertile part of that Country and as they cannot know any thing of the Endeavours Voyage they will not hesitate a moment to declare themselves the first discoverer. Indeed I can not see how they can think other wise unless the natives inform them to the contrary which they may not choose to understand. The French Officer before spoke of would not allow that Georges Island was first discover'd by the Dolphin tho no doubt Bougainville did, but it was not for the Intrest of his Country nor perhaps his own, to own it, thus this Island tho of little Value may prove a bone of Contention between the two nations, especially if the french make a Settlement upon it, and the Dolphins Voyage and this of ours not Published by Authority to fix the prior right of discovery behond dispute. Now I am upon the subject of discoveries I hope it will not be taken a Miss if I give it as my opinion that the most feasable Method of making fu[r]ther discoveries in the South Sea is to enter it by the way of New Zeland, first touching and refreshing at the Cape of Good Hope, from thence proceed to the Southward of New Holland for Queen Charlottes Sound where again refresh Wood and Water, takeing care to be ready to leave that place by the latter end of September or beginning of October at farthest, when you would have the whole summer before you and after geting through the Straight might, with the prevailing Westerly winds, run to the Eastward in as high a Latitude as you please and, if you met with no lands, would have time enough to get round Cape Horne before the summer was too far spent, but if after meeting with no Continent & you had other Objects in View, than haul to the northward and after visiting some of the Islands already discover'd, after which proceed with the trade wind back to the Westward in search of those before Mintioned++s thus the discoveries in the South Sea would be compleat. James Cook